RE: [QRP-L] What antenna should I build?
> -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > On Behalf Of JT Croteau > > Here is what I have in the junk box: > > 75' of RG213 > ~30' of solid conductor commercial ladder line > ~800' of 14ga stranded insulated THN wire > Assortment of dog-bone style insulators > Wide assortment of PVC and nuts/bolts > > What can I do with the above and the internal tuner in my K1 without > going out and buying anything? Ideally, I'd like something that will > load well on 80/40/30/20/15 but will settle for 40-15. > > Anyone have any ideas? > Most of this will bounce since I am not subscribed to but one of your cross-posted forums... However, There are several things you can do. You didn't tell us how much horizontal space you have so I will just guess. You don't have a balun or an external tuner so this will be fun to work with. You can try some of the following: 1: stretch out a 135 foot dipole (Inverted Vee) and feed it with the RG213 to the rig. Trim the antenna to match as close to the lower end of 80 as possible. 3.525 or so should work. Then see if the rig can handle the antenna on the other bands. It should work harmonically on all bands but 30 meters. If not, calculate the center frequency of the 80 meter band and trim it to one whose multiple will put you closest to those other bands you wish to operate. I am assuming you are wanting to operate CW mostly. Once trimmed, then try to fine-tune it with the internal tuner to those bands it doesn't match. If it matches all but 30, then calculate a 30 meter dipole and add it under the 80 meter dipole. Use the PVC to space the elements about 4-8 inches apart. Trim the lower frequency antenna first, and then the higher frequency antennas. Now, you should be able to operate on all bands. If you don't have the space, you will have to be more creative. Trimming the inverted vee to 7.025 will also give you a multi-band from 40-10 and require less space. You may still need the 30 meter element. If you could make a full sized dipole (flat-top), you can keep adding dipoles under the 80 meter dipole until you have all the bands you desire, each trimmed for your favorite frequency and the tuner will match it on the rest of the band. I don't remember if the G5RV uses the same or less twin feed as you have, but you can look into that. I hope this helps, if nothing else maybe it will stir up some thoughts that bring about your solution. 73 for now Buck N4PGW -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/361 - Release Date: 6/11/2006 __ QRP-L mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/qrp-l Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Elecraft] What Vertical Antenna Do I Need?
I have a Gap Challenger. Ground mounted. 3 25 ft radials laying on the ground (no pattern). 302 countries confirmed. QRP 200 plus confirmed. 5BDXCC. WAZ. WAS. WAC. etc.. Painted light grey and sky blue. Neighbors think its a sculpture. WORKS GREAT! What more can I say Good luck, 73 Art W6KY K1-4 --- "Fred (FL)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I'm another limited space, restricted community > ham (for now). I've been considering different > types of verticals which might be best. I THINK, > I'm looking for an antenna which: > > - vertical ? > - no radials > - no counterpoises > - no guy-wires > - 40 thru 10 > - maybe 4 shorter buried radials (if I must) > - not a lot of "visual" space, for neighbors > > We have a MOBILE Home (mostly plastic, and > wood) - which sits on a slab of concrete, > surrounded by 8x8 wood timers, 2 feet high on > front side of mobile. Can easily get UNDER > mobile, thru removable siding. > > Park owner, OK'd a "marine antenna" - whatever that > means to him. We live on shore of St. Lawrence > River - Canada in the distance. > > What commercial or home-made antenna could suit > my bill? > > Fred > N3CSY > > __ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam > protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem
Don, I checked T4 and discovered that it is a FT50-10 core instead of FT50-43. I wound the proper core and all the adjustments worked out fine. K2 S/N 5404 is running fine with over 100 watts out on all bands. I do have one more question. While working on the amp I noticed that the black coatings on the thermal pads seem to scratch easily. Mine have a couple of minor scratches that go thru the black. Does this reduce their ability to conduct heat away? Should I replace them? Thanks. Harvey KN6VP - Original Message - From: "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Harvey Howell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2006 8:50 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem Harvey, At first glance it would seem like there is something awry with your wattmeter section of the KPA100. Check the T4 windings again and check carefully to be certain everything is well soldered with no solder bridges. Check the diodes for proper orientation, then try again to balance the wattmeter bridge. If you do not get the trimmer capacitor correct, the power and SWR indications will be 'funny', so be certain that you have a good null (use the DVM on the test point). The capacitor setting is quite 'touchy' so adjust it very slowly waiting for your DVM to settle down with each small change. The increased voltages at D13 and U4 pin 8 are to be expected since the change of R4 to 39k - the voltages in the KPA100 unfortunately have not been updated to reflect this change. They are NOT related to your wattmeter problem. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hello everyone. I almost made it to the finish line with my K2. I'm encountering a problem with the KPA100 SWR Bridge Null Adjustment (C1). I have everything hooked up correctly as far as I can determine. I set the power knob for 5.0 W. Enter tune mode and adjust C1 to get 1.0-1 SWR on the K2 display. The best I can achieve is 3.6w and 3.4-1 SWR. When the display reads this value my SX-200 power meter indicates about 18 watts out!! Also some of the voltages read a little high: D13 cathode should be 90 to 150v : reads 158v. U4 (MAX 1406) pin 8 should be -5 to -25v : reads -28v Test Equipment Used: DL-1 and MFJ dummy loads. SX-200 power meter. I have given the board a close visual inspection and nothing looks bad. The red and green leads on T4 go to the correct pads. Any ideas? Thanks very much. Harvey KN6VP -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/361 - Release Date: 6/11/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/361 - Release Date: 6/11/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] What Vertical Antenna Do I Need?
Fred, I would look at one of the Force 12 verticles. They are very good radiators Lee - K0WA In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't have any Common Sense - get some and use it. If you can't find any common sense, ask for help from somebody who has some common sense. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] help calibrating KAT1
I'm trying to calibrate the KAT1 using an RF probe. Parameter Atu is set to CLP, and Out is set to 5.0 watts. Docs say that when I enter TUNE mode and watch the DMM's voltage with the probe on RF hot and ground, I should adjust WPM+/WPM- until I see 14 volts on the DMM. I see 3.67 V and it doesn't change when I press WPM+/WPM-. The K1 display doesn't change either - in fact it stays at 0.1 watts (not 5). When I exit TUNE mode, the Out parameter has reverted back to 0.1 watts. Any ideas? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] What Vertical Antenna Do I Need?
Fred N3CSY asked: I'm another limited space, restricted community ham (for now). I've been considering different types of verticals which might be best. I THINK, I'm looking for an antenna which: - vertical ? - no radials - no counterpoises - no guy-wires - 40 thru 10 - maybe 4 shorter buried radials (if I must) - not a lot of "visual" space, for neighbors We have a MOBILE Home (mostly plastic, and wood) - which sits on a slab of concrete, surrounded by 8x8 wood timers, 2 feet high on front side of mobile. Can easily get UNDER mobile, thru removable siding. Park owner, OK'd a "marine antenna" - whatever that means to him. We live on shore of St. Lawrence River - Canada in the distance. What commercial or home-made antenna could suit my bill? To most people familiar with ships a "marine" antenna is a 20 foot whip, usually a robust self-supporting fiberglass pole that is mounted with side brackets on the side of the house on smaller boats or on the side of one of the stack on large ships or, on large ships, is mounted at the base with a ring about 1-foot in diameter that is bolted to the steel deck. They work FB as Marconi antennas (1/4 wave or shorter worked against ground) because the "ground" on a ship is the best you'll find on the earth: miles and miles of salt water. With such a ground those antennas are astonishingly effective. A big part of the efficiency comes not from the immediate ground connection, but from the fact that out in the Fresnel zone some wavelengths from the antenna where the electromagnetic waves interact with the earth, the "earth" there is very good conducting salt water. Your requirements include "no radials". In that case you might go with one of the so-called "ground independent" verticals such as the Cushcraft R6000. They are electrically 1/2 wavelength long, so they don't require radials but they are *not* as efficient as a true half-wave antenna. Still, a 40-10 or 40-6 meter antenna like the Cushcraft is only a bit over 20 feet tall, which should meet the demands of the park owner, and will deliver good performance in the smallest space. The only issue will be that instead of the clean, simple fiberglass pole that one usually sees on boats, these antennas have several vertical sections all interconnected. On land you'll need radials with a typical marine whip. The closer to the ground, the more radials you'll need for a given efficiency. The idea of the radials is to intercept the RF currents and have them flow in good conducting copper instead of through the lossy earth. If they have to be on the ground, the "rule of thumb" the FCC and broadcast engineers have used for over half a century is to have 120 radials 0.2 wavelengths long radiating from the base of the antenna. If you can raise the radials even only five or six feed above the earth, half a dozen are just as effective as the 120 on (or in) the ground. Fewer will work, but not work as well. Such an antenna with, say, four elevated 1/4 wave radials, will work quite well on 15 and 20 meters, work fair on 40 meters and even provide some contacts on 80, although there it'll be a very inefficient antenna. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[QRP-L] Re: [NoGaQRP] What antenna should I build?
I have read articles on the web recently that mention the low NVIS type antenna's. I'm not sure if your familiar with the concept but here is a link that I've used http://www.hamuniverse.com/nvisbeam.html I kind of like the one they mention - the cloud warmer - it looks like a neat concept. I would think that if you are wanting to intentionally get a higher angle of radiation for more regional / local stuff - (instead of that very low one your vertical is producing) - this would be a pretty good candidate. One thing that worried me however was ground losses (running QRP it matters) with it being as low as it is. I think the reason this design above using the director "element" beneath the main radiator is to minimize the ground loss but I'm not sure. Just an idea.. Of course your monofiliment over the 50 ' limb wont come in handy on this one... ! - Original Message - From: "JT Croteau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "QRP-L" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Elecraft" ; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 2:25 PM Subject: [NoGaQRP] What antenna should I build? My only antenna currently here at the home QTH is an HF2V vertical which does great for long haul DX on 40 and 80 but in general is not good for local or regional work. I just launched some monofilament over the only high branch in my yard at 50'. As I only have a single support, I'm looking at some suggestions on constructing a multiband vee wire antenna but have limited materials on hand and even more limited $$ to go out an buy stuff at the moment. Here is what I have in the junk box: 75' of RG213 ~30' of solid conductor commercial ladder line ~800' of 14ga stranded insulated THN wire Assortment of dog-bone style insulators Wide assortment of PVC and nuts/bolts What can I do with the above and the internal tuner in my K1 without going out and buying anything? Ideally, I'd like something that will load well on 80/40/30/20/15 but will settle for 40-15. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks -- JT Croteau - W6FO - Canton, GA | K1 #292 ARS #2,147 | NoGA-QRP | SEDXC | ARRL ___ NoGaQRP mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/nogaqrp -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/361 - Release Date: 6/11/2006 __ QRP-L mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/qrp-l Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Elecraft] RE:Let me see.....Revisited
Whoa Guys, I would never ever give up my K2. I am just trying to decide if I want another K2, or maybe this time a KX1. I love to build and the Elecraft kits certainly fill that bill (or should I say "build". ouch, that's a bad pun indeed). You see, I also want a W7ZOI spec analyzer, a couple of KK7B's super recievers and the list goes on and on. What a delimna! So many things and being past 70, how can one get it all done? And I promised the XYL I would get back to my art endeavors, do a few more landscapes and lighthouses. Oh! the pain of it all.. Jim, W4ATK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Poles
Hi, Benny. My last and best is Spiderbeam product of still stronger material, 40 ft high. Very handy telescope. Spider must sell beams also in US, I think. Look for www.spiderbeam.net Yes - The Wire Man sells them for $99USD+Shipping. http://thewireman.com/index.shtml 73 Martin. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] What Vertical Antenna Do I Need?
I'm another limited space, restricted community ham (for now). I've been considering different types of verticals which might be best. I THINK, I'm looking for an antenna which: - vertical ? - no radials - no counterpoises - no guy-wires - 40 thru 10 - maybe 4 shorter buried radials (if I must) - not a lot of "visual" space, for neighbors We have a MOBILE Home (mostly plastic, and wood) - which sits on a slab of concrete, surrounded by 8x8 wood timers, 2 feet high on front side of mobile. Can easily get UNDER mobile, thru removable siding. Park owner, OK'd a "marine antenna" - whatever that means to him. We live on shore of St. Lawrence River - Canada in the distance. What commercial or home-made antenna could suit my bill? Fred N3CSY __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 30-foot Telescoping Fiberglas Poles
>I thought someone had found similar poles for a bit less than the > Jackite price, however I may be in error here. _http://5stores.com/jackite/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3&sort=20a&page=2_ (http://5stores.com/jackite/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3&sort=20a&page=2) $42.95 + shipping Geoff, K6TFZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 30-foot Telescoping Fiberglas Poles - Hot Sticks/Poles
Just a slight clarification to Tom's posting, and some additional information. The Mast Co. (www.tmastco.com) Does Not sell NEW electric utility hot sticks/poles. I do offer NEW heavy duty fiberglass telescopic poles suitable for ham use. I do occassionally get hot stick/pole units from my local utility just like Tom's group. I have to buy them as surplus property; the trashed units are worthless. I check and clean the units to make them suitable for ham use. They are not featured on my web site due to the sporadic availability. I do have a significant quantity of spare sections; however, they are missing the all-important spring-loaded button assemblies that lock the sections together when you telescope them. If you want a new unit, the best way is to contact an electrical supply company that caters to the utility industry. Be prepared to pay from $250.00 to $500.00 per pole depending on overall length and attachment features. The 2 major manufacturers are Hastings (www.hfgp.com) and A. B. Chance. These manufacturers are not interested in providing their products to the ham community - been there, tried that. 73, Henry - K4TMC www.TMastCo.com a K2 user also ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Let me see
Hi Jim, I have just finished K2 #05573 to go along with my #00254 (seven years old, now). I also have a KX1. It's a tough call, KX1 or another K2. I got the second K2 to allow me to use two receivers (not really SO2R in the contesting sense). I absolutely love my KX1, now with 80, 40, 30, 20M. I think its about the most fun radio I've ever used. While it lacks a few whistles (it has the bells), it is no slouch in the receive department. The portability is awesome, as you would expect. Having the 4 bands, tuner, batteries, and key all in one package is just fantastic. The "Jones" filter on the KX1 is quite nice, too. I can't say which to go with, but I can say you won't be disappointed with either. It's a good delima... 73, N4TVC, Randy, FM18is -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of James T. "Jim" Rogers, W4ATK Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 6:16 PM To: Elecraft Reflector Subject: [Elecraft] Let me see Where do I go next? I just finished a K2 for a friend. I am the proud owner of a K2 (4028) and I have had my eye on a KX1 for quite some time. I would be interested in hearing from other K2 owners that also own KX1s. I feel like it is going to be either a KX1 or another K2. I like the portability of the KX1, but boy I love the outstanding performance of my K2. What say guys? Help me out here. Jim, W4ATK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] What antenna should I build?
If you just had another few feet of ladder line to reach from your shack to your feedpoint, Ron, my answer would be easy. The classic 88 ft center fed doublet which your tuner would load fine on 80 thru 10. With the center at 50 ft, it would give you good coverage over the US on the low bands. But guess you will need to cut some spacers from your PVC collection and make some additional ladder line from your AWG 14 wire. Will take some time but work just as well. Have fun! ... Craig AC0DS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Fully Loaded K2 for sale
Hi I have a friend with a Fully loaded K2 for sale K2 B model I don't know the serial number KPA100 100 watt amp KNB2 Noise blanker KSB2 sideband module KDSP2DSP module K160M160 meter aux antenna KBT2 internal battery option in standard QRP lid KAT2 20 watt tuner in above lid KAT100 150 watt external tuner The radio is owned by John Cooper WT5Y. John does not currently have internet access so you will need to reach him by phone at 1 409 347 0532. John is asking $1995 for all of the above Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] torroid windings
BILL COCHRAN wrote: I wound RFC 11, 14 and 16 with one too many windings, will this have to be fixed or can I use the radios with the extra windings? You mean one extra turn on each toroid? Since these function as RF chokes, I doubt that a little extra inductance will matter. If they were used in tuned circuits or as transformers it would be more critical. That's my guess. You can ask [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you want a more official answer. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Let me see
Where do I go next? I just finished a K2 for a friend. I am the proud owner of a K2 (4028) and I have had my eye on a KX1 for quite some time. I would be interested in hearing from other K2 owners that also own KX1s. I feel like it is going to be either a KX1 or another K2. I like the portability of the KX1, but boy I love the outstanding performance of my K2. What say guys? Help me out here. Jim, W4ATK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT - 30-foot Telescoping Fiberglas Poles -- typo fixed
The web address Tom provided had a minor typo. www.tmastco.com will work better. Fran ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] torroid windings
I wound RFC 11, 14 and 16 with one too many windings, will this have to be fixed or can I use the radios with the extra windings? BILL COCHRAN BILL COCHRAN REAL ESTATE APPRAISALS, LLC 1430 N 12TH STREET CAMBRIDGE, OHIO 43725 PHONE:740-439-7058 FAX: 740-236-1560 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] What antenna should I build?
Hi JT You mentioned the tree with a 50 ft support point. What do you have to support the ends of your wires? Also, what kind of real estate do you have to spread out over? That would help us a lot in suggesting something. Good luck and 73 Bob N6WG - Original Message - From: "JT Croteau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "QRP-L" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Elecraft" ; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 11:25 AM Subject: [Elecraft] What antenna should I build? > My only antenna currently here at the home QTH is an HF2V vertical > which does great for long haul DX on 40 and 80 but in general is not > good for local or regional work. I just launched some monofilament > over the only high branch in my yard at 50'. > > As I only have a single support, I'm looking at some suggestions on > constructing a multiband vee wire antenna but have limited materials > on hand and even more limited $$ to go out an buy stuff at the moment. > > Here is what I have in the junk box: > > 75' of RG213 > ~30' of solid conductor commercial ladder line > ~800' of 14ga stranded insulated THN wire > Assortment of dog-bone style insulators > Wide assortment of PVC and nuts/bolts > > What can I do with the above and the internal tuner in my K1 without > going out and buying anything? Ideally, I'd like something that will > load well on 80/40/30/20/15 but will settle for 40-15. > > Anyone have any ideas? > > Thanks > > -- > JT Croteau - W6FO - Canton, GA | K1 #292 > ARS #2,147 | NoGA-QRP | SEDXC | ARRL > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] What antenna should I build?
Jim, That OCF sounds interesting, and I'm also in a restricted neighborhood, but what is a '1/2 wavelength of coax' for an antenna that covers 80 thru 10 meters? Mark AD5SS On 6/12/06, James T. Jim Rogers, W4ATK <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Gee, I live in a restricted neighborhood and I could not be happier with my 40M off center fed dipole I have stapled to the "ridgepole" in my garden home. I mounted a 4:1 balun at the feed point and fed it with 1/2 wavelength of coax. It works 80 thru 10 meters and is easily tuned with my KAT100 to 1:1 on 40 thru 10 and 1.2:1 on 80M. Moving from band to band changes the radiation pattern and on 20M, it has a pipeline into Europe and the Middle East. Made some nice contacts on the K2 alone, I very seldom QRO up to the big gun, the KPA100. 73s Jim, W4ATK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: K2 complete
I did some signal tracing to try to find the problem with my new K2. The rig works fine on most bands, with low output on the higher bands (5W on 15m, 3 or 4W on 10m)) and almost none on 12m. There seem to be two problems: one is variable power output and the other is low output on the high bands. Taking the variable output first: On Tune, the power output is often much higher than specified by Power Out. This seems to occur about 1 in 3 or more times when Tune is pressed continuously. Seven watts for five, for example. The K2 does not bring this higher voltage down, it stays there or runs up ward ar watt or so. I checked pin 2 of U8 and it is always 5V, key down or not. It should be 0.7 to 2.5V in Tune. All components seem OK in this area and the RF detector area. Tests 1 to 5 on p.14 of Xmit mixer output, Buffer Output, Band Bass Filter output and TR switch output all reflect this intermittent variation when measured several times in a row. The next few tests in TX signal tracing (p.14 in Troubleshooting appendix) are stable with no variation when consecutive measurements are made, and near expected values for Pre-driver output (0.116V instead of 0.12), Driver input (0.33 instead of 0.26V), Driver output (1.74 instead of 1.8V), PA Q7 input (0.43 instead of 0.38V) and Q8 (0.50 instead of .38V) and RF Detector input (2.09 instead of 2.0V). The PA Transistor tests (Item 7 on the list) are fairly far off the expected values. With the positive probe on the base of Q7 and Q8, the Collector reading was 4400 ohms instead of 600 and the Emitter 2700 instead of 600. With the negative probe, they were 6300 instead of 1300 and 2700 instead of 3000+. Page 4 schematic components look OK, as do other ones involved. Since the Receiver signal tracing requires a signal generator set at 1.4mV, I could not do those checks. I will set the low output problem aside for now, although it may have something to do with the situation. Elecraft will call me back when they are free and no doubt they will cure my ills. But in case someone has similar problem someday (or has gone through this one and can help), I thought I would post my results so far. I've found that hese voltage checks are a lot easier than I thought they would be. Bob VA3RKM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] What antenna should I build?
Gee, I live in a restricted neighborhood and I could not be happier with my 40M off center fed dipole I have stapled to the "ridgepole" in my garden home. I mounted a 4:1 balun at the feed point and fed it with 1/2 wavelength of coax. It works 80 thru 10 meters and is easily tuned with my KAT100 to 1:1 on 40 thru 10 and 1.2:1 on 80M. Moving from band to band changes the radiation pattern and on 20M, it has a pipeline into Europe and the Middle East. Made some nice contacts on the K2 alone, I very seldom QRO up to the big gun, the KPA100. 73s Jim, W4ATK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 20M KX-1 T/R Problem
Other then a relay, wonder what could be causing this problem: I am having trouble with the T/R relay circuit hanging up on 20m only - 40 works fine. The RX works on 20, then when I key to transmit it works but then wont go back to receive properly. The signals are very weak and I have to turn the KX-1 off and on to reset. It sounds like one of the relays is hanging up - I think perhaps relay K1. Am I correct? But why only on 20m and not 40m? Thanks Ken K1UM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] What antenna should I build?
Take a look at the Ten Tec Vee beam, then remember that a non terminated Vee beam is bi directional, so you do not need the termination resistors. Make it up as a one support sloping vee as long as will fit your lot with the angles suggested, 45 degrees. You can stake out the lower ends with tent stakes and then move the direction by moving the stakes to steer the beam for time of day and conditions. Feed it with the ladder line and to a tuner for all band use. Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Battery use with QRP rigs - page updated - NiMH info added
I've just updated my battery page again, adding a discharge curve (at 300 mA) from an 8-cell pack of AA NiNH batteries sent to me by VE3NFK who has the same analyzer I do. And NN4CW is sending me a couple of *very* tiny LiPo batteries to test that he uses in the Spartan Sprint contests with excellent results. Thanks to both of you for your contribution. I've gotten a ton of email regarding battery operation w/QRP since making my initial post a few days ago. Several folks are doing some interesting experiments involving high-farad capacitors, DC-DC converters & batteries with solar cells. In a previous post, there is a link to http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2335 The price and capacity of this battery made me wonder what the "catch" was since I recently paid $30 more for a slightly smaller battery: http://www.aeromicro.com/Catalog/thunder_power_pro_lite_3-cell_2100_mah_li-po_pack_4479728.htm When/If shopping for a LiPo battery keep in mind that batteries of identical capacities (mAh ratings) can have drastically different discharge ratings. The battery in the first link has a max discharge rating of 2.5 amps (1C). The more expensive battery is rated at 31 amps continuous, 50 amps peak. With our QRP rigs, we will probably never draw 2.5 amps from a battery, so is there any reason to use the more expensive battery? The main difference between these two batteries is that the smaller rated battery will have more of a voltage drop during transmit than the 31-amp battery. This is the effect that some folks who are experimenting with large capacitors on the outputs of their batteries are compensating for, with excellent results in higher output power over simply using the batteries alone. As it is, I have more than one reason to have the higher-rated battery (R/C electric planes), but if I was going to use the battery strictly for QRP, I'd probably go with the less expensive one (and then wonder what tangible benefits there may be from the other one!) and then start experimenting with these caps. http://www.maxwell.com/ultracapacitors/index.html John Harper AE5X Portable QRP: http://www.ae5x.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Pelican Case for K2 Portable Station
guess it depends upon what YOU call an entire station I have my k2 qrp, batt/tuner/ ps/ antenna/ headset/palm paddle, solar panel/ logbook/, license/ english CEPT agreements/mic, antenna, in a gray pelican 1520,... I have the kpa100/kt100 in an ec2 in another black 1520 for hipower, with more wire antennas . The HP case never got international though., http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1771119&a=13683578&p=60310879 it got stopped only once at Heathrow , because they could not "see thru the battery" on the xray, so they asked me to open it up. bill At 09:23 AM 6/12/2006, Mark Baugh wrote: Has anyone already solved the question of what Pelican case to use with a K2 "complete" station? I would like to put a K2, with antenna and K1EL K-40, a Heil set, computer keyboard and associated cables into a Pelican. I'm thinking about the Buddipole but an not yet decided. Links to photos and specs would be greatly appreciated! --- I use a Pelican 1600 case; plenty big to hold the whole station but not too big to handle. About the size of a medium suitcase. 73, Byron 73, Mark Baugh W5EZY Grenada MS __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] What antenna should I build?
Don W3FPR wrote: The theory is that the 80 meter wire will also serve on the 3rd harmonic at 30 meters and the 40 meter element will similarly serve on 15 as a 3/2 wavelength antenna, giving you coverage of 80 thru 15 meters with the 3 elements. - Ha, Ha! Good point, Don. Shows how long it's been since I used a fan dipole: since before 30 meters. Yes, a dipole for 80 is about 134 feet long and 3/2 waves on 30 meters is just about 141 feet, allowing for nominal end-effect. That's close enough to use one wire on both bands. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [QRP-L] What antenna should I build?
Your HF2-V will work fine as is on 15 meters. I usually mine rather than my Cushcraft R5 which also covers 15. The ground mounted Butternut does better for dx while the R5 maybe better for the US and South America. By the way you can load your HF2v up on 20 and 17 meters with your tuners if you are using qrp. I wouldnt run high power or you might blow a capacitor. If you add the 30 meter add on kit to the HF2V you use that band as well. By the way you can also use the HF2v to work six meter e-skip. 73 de Dave, N0IT - Original Message - From: "JT Croteau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "QRP-L" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Elecraft" ; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 1:25 PM Subject: [QRP-L] What antenna should I build? My only antenna currently here at the home QTH is an HF2V vertical which does great for long haul DX on 40 and 80 but in general is not good for local or regional work. I just launched some monofilament over the only high branch in my yard at 50'. As I only have a single support, I'm looking at some suggestions on constructing a multiband vee wire antenna but have limited materials on hand and even more limited $$ to go out an buy stuff at the moment. Here is what I have in the junk box: 75' of RG213 ~30' of solid conductor commercial ladder line ~800' of 14ga stranded insulated THN wire Assortment of dog-bone style insulators Wide assortment of PVC and nuts/bolts What can I do with the above and the internal tuner in my K1 without going out and buying anything? Ideally, I'd like something that will load well on 80/40/30/20/15 but will settle for 40-15. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks -- JT Croteau - W6FO - Canton, GA | K1 #292 ARS #2,147 | NoGA-QRP | SEDXC | ARRL __ QRP-L mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/qrp-l Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] __ QRP-L mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/qrp-l Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Elecraft] What antenna should I build?
-Original Message- My only antenna currently here at the home QTH is an HF2V vertical which does great for long haul DX on 40 and 80 but in general is not good for local or regional work. I just launched some monofilament over the only high branch in my yard at 50'. As I only have a single support, I'm looking at some suggestions on constructing a multiband vee wire antenna but have limited materials on hand and even more limited $$ to go out an buy stuff at the moment. Here is what I have in the junk box: 75' of RG213 ~30' of solid conductor commercial ladder line ~800' of 14ga stranded insulated THN wire Assortment of dog-bone style insulators Wide assortment of PVC and nuts/bolts What can I do with the above and the internal tuner in my K1 without going out and buying anything? Ideally, I'd like something that will load well on 80/40/30/20/15 but will settle for 40-15. Anyone have any ideas? -- If you can arrange the wire to come close to your operating position (window, etc.) forget the feed line and use an end-fed wire. Eliminating the feed line eliminates the problem with feeder losses in a multiband antenna. An end-fed inverted V works just as well as a center fed one. Make it as long as possible to keep the feedpoint impedance high. The problem with most end-fed wires is that they are only 1/4 wave long or even shorter. Such antennas are highly-dependent upon a very good ground for good operation. We're talking physical length, no electrical length. Short antennas that have loading devices that make them "look" like they're a half wave long to the RF are still inefficient. You'll want a ground anyway to keep the rig at a low RF potential, even though it's probably not needed for an efficient antenna on most bands. The ideal length for a true ground-independent end fed antenna is a wire a half wave long, but that's a problem with ATU's. They can't handle the very high impedance the antenna will present. So the "trick" is to use as long a wire as you can, greater than 1/2 wave is FB, that will still present an impedance within the range of your ATU on all bands. If you want to work 80, that'll mean something close to or greater than 130 feet. Now add insulated counterpoise wires for each band. They can be run anywhere - along baseboards, stapled to the side of the house, etc., as long as they are insulated from ground and 1/4 wave long for each band. Keep the ends of the counterpoises separate too, at least the last several feed of each wire. Fewer counterpoises will often work, especially on the bands were the antenna is close to 1/2 wave long or greater, but don't fall into the trap of believing that a 1:1 SWR reported by the ATU means the antenna is working efficiently. It only means the rig is feeding power efficiently. What the antenna is doing is something quite different. You want to provide as good an RF ground as you can for each band to ensure the radiator is getting maximum RF current, especially on the lower-frequency bands were the antenna is less than 1/2 wave long. Fifty feet in height will provide excellent signals for close in operations using an end-fed "inverted V" or sloping wire configuration on all the bands below 30 meters and excellent low angle radiation for DX on the higher bands. Even 40 will provide good DX at that height. The ideal height for a horizontal antenna is about 1/2 wavelength above the ground. At 50 feet, expect your horizontal wire to show 4 to 6 dB *GAIN* over your vertical, thanks to the help horizontals get from ground reflections that verticals don't. So it'll have the effect of doubling or quadrupling your effective radiated power. Start with all the wire that fits your yard and counterpoises cut for each band. If your ATU can't find a match on some bands, start shortening the antenna by small steps. Keep in mind that if the higher bands produce a matching problem, you don't need to shorten it by much. For example, shortening the antenna by 10 feet will have a huge effect on 15 meters and virtually no effect on 40 or 80 meters. You can simply fold back the radiator wire on itself and add guy line as needed to shorten it until you find a length that will load on all bands. Folded back wire acts like a "fat" wire to the RF, which flows over the outside of the wire, not through the copper. Once you have a length that works on all bands, you can trim it short and clean up the installation. That would be my first choice. A second choice would be to center feed the wire using the ladder line. You may or may not use a balun, especially if the feed line can be brought to the rig "in the clear" where radiation from the line won't be unduly absorbed by surrounding objects. Just hook one side of the feeder to the hot conductor on the antenna jack and the other to the case. The antenna acts like a combination radiator and counterpoise all built into one. My last choice would be to use the coax. If you do tha
RE: [Elecraft] What antenna should I build?
I would suggest a fanned dipole configuration with elements cut for 80, 40 and 20 meters - feed it with the RG-213 directly (or through a balun if you have one). Cut the elements for 40 and 20 plenty long (about 15%) and cut the 80 meter elements for the low part of the band (3.5 MHz). You will have to do a lot of cut and try to get it tuned - fan the elements for each band as far away from each other as possible to reduce interaction (maybe easiest to guy them in a circle 60 degrees apart around your center support), then start tuning on the lowest band and work upward. The theory is that the 80 meter wire will also serve on the 3rd harmonic at 30 meters and the 40 meter element will similarly serve on 15 as a 3/2 wavelength antenna, giving you coverage of 80 thru 15 meters with the 3 elements. The harmonic operation will only provide a low SWR if you cut the 80 and 40 meter sections for the low end of the band. The SWR may not be perfect on all bands, but then you have a tuner to compensate, so it will be tolerable with the RG-213. Try it and see - it would give you a good multiband antenna even without a tuner in many cases. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > My only antenna currently here at the home QTH is an HF2V vertical > which does great for long haul DX on 40 and 80 but in general is not > good for local or regional work. I just launched some monofilament > over the only high branch in my yard at 50'. > > As I only have a single support, I'm looking at some suggestions on > constructing a multiband vee wire antenna but have limited materials > on hand and even more limited $$ to go out an buy stuff at the moment. > > Here is what I have in the junk box: > > 75' of RG213 > ~30' of solid conductor commercial ladder line > ~800' of 14ga stranded insulated THN wire > Assortment of dog-bone style insulators > Wide assortment of PVC and nuts/bolts > > What can I do with the above and the internal tuner in my K1 without > going out and buying anything? Ideally, I'd like something that will > load well on 80/40/30/20/15 but will settle for 40-15. > > Anyone have any ideas? > > Thanks > > -- > JT Croteau - W6FO - Canton, GA | K1 #292 > ARS #2,147 | NoGA-QRP | SEDXC | ARRL > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] What antenna should I build?
My only antenna currently here at the home QTH is an HF2V vertical which does great for long haul DX on 40 and 80 but in general is not good for local or regional work. I just launched some monofilament over the only high branch in my yard at 50'. As I only have a single support, I'm looking at some suggestions on constructing a multiband vee wire antenna but have limited materials on hand and even more limited $$ to go out an buy stuff at the moment. Here is what I have in the junk box: 75' of RG213 ~30' of solid conductor commercial ladder line ~800' of 14ga stranded insulated THN wire Assortment of dog-bone style insulators Wide assortment of PVC and nuts/bolts What can I do with the above and the internal tuner in my K1 without going out and buying anything? Ideally, I'd like something that will load well on 80/40/30/20/15 but will settle for 40-15. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks -- JT Croteau - W6FO - Canton, GA | K1 #292 ARS #2,147 | NoGA-QRP | SEDXC | ARRL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Battery use with QRP rigs - page updated
HI In addition to my experimenting with solar power and SLA batteries I have also done some playing around with NiMH batteries. There are several manufacturers making 2700 mAHr AA cells and 700-800 mAHr AAA cells. I use many sets of these batteries for digital camera equipment and I have tried several brands. I have found the Maha Powerex AA cells to be reliable and conservatively rated. I have 30-40 of them and have never had one fail in several years of use although I have had several batteries from other makers fail or refuse to take a charge. I also have several chargers including the Maha MH-C801 8 cell fast charger, the Maha MH-C401FS and the La Crosse BC-900. All of these chargers charge each cell separately rather than several in series. They are all microprocessor controlled and will charge the high capacity AA cells in about an hour. A 10 cell NiMH pack can be charged with a solar panel without a controller. As long as the panel supplies around 1/10 C you can leave the batteries on charge almost indefinitely. For the 2700 mAHr batteries this is 270 ma so a 5 watt panel with a 350 mA maximum output could be left connected all day without worry of damaging the battery pack. Don Brown KD5NDB - Original Message - From: "Leigh L Klotz, Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 12:26 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Battery use with QRP rigs - page updated > Dan, > I have used the same 10 cell AA holder from Mouser for about a year with > the 2500mAH cells from Energizer. I also recently bought the BatterySpace > 2500mAH Lipo pack from > http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2335 and > will be testing the both in real-world condx with my KX1. > > Here are a few suggestions for folks trying the NiMH AA's: > 1. Use a little DeOxit on the springs and tabs and battery ends. > 2. Tape around the + and - ends of the batteries to keep them in tight, > and to protect against shorts; ditto for the two long edges of the battery > case. > 3. If you charge with a pack charger, break down the pack and test the > cell voltages after it's discharged. I found I had some cells that had > fallen to 0.9v but the rest were 1.2v to 1.3v even under moderate load. > I've started using a Ray-o-Vac 4-cell charger that charges each cell > individually, and breaking them down. This seeems to result in more even > charging and makes the pack last longer per charge. I understand that > there are 8-cell and 10-cell chargers that charge each battery separately, > and if I hadn't invested in Lipo I probably would get one of those. The > 4-cell charger was $19, so it wasn't a big cost. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Pelican Case for K2 Portable Station
Sounds like you'd better consider the kind of Pelican case rifle shooters use! Honestly! 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jun 12, 2006, at 7:23 AM, Mark Baugh wrote: Has anyone already solved the question of what Pelican case to use with a K2 "complete" station? I would like to put a K2, with antenna and K1EL K-40, a Heil set, computer keyboard and associated cables into a Pelican. I'm thinking about the Buddipole but an not yet decided. Links to photos and specs would be greatly appreciated! --- I use a Pelican 1600 case; plenty big to hold the whole station but not too big to handle. About the size of a medium suitcase. 73, Byron 73, Mark Baugh W5EZY Grenada MS __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Battery use with QRP rigs - page updated
Dan, I have used the same 10 cell AA holder from Mouser for about a year with the 2500mAH cells from Energizer. I also recently bought the BatterySpace 2500mAH Lipo pack from http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2335 and will be testing the both in real-world condx with my KX1. Here are a few suggestions for folks trying the NiMH AA's: 1. Use a little DeOxit on the springs and tabs and battery ends. 2. Tape around the + and - ends of the batteries to keep them in tight, and to protect against shorts; ditto for the two long edges of the battery case. 3. If you charge with a pack charger, break down the pack and test the cell voltages after it's discharged. I found I had some cells that had fallen to 0.9v but the rest were 1.2v to 1.3v even under moderate load. I've started using a Ray-o-Vac 4-cell charger that charges each cell individually, and breaking them down. This seeems to result in more even charging and makes the pack last longer per charge. I understand that there are 8-cell and 10-cell chargers that charge each battery separately, and if I hadn't invested in Lipo I probably would get one of those. The 4-cell charger was $19, so it wasn't a big cost. Leigh / WA5ZNU > I've run NiMH's (2200 or 2400 mAh) from WalMart - using a 10 AA-cell > holder > from Mouser. At 5W, I start getting the low voltage 'beep' in the > headphones > after an hour or two of use. If I run at 1W, I figure I can get 4-6 hours > (enough for a short sprint). I haven't checked out the webpage yet to see > what > sort of results you're asking about with regards to NiMH's. I switch to > the > NiMH's after I pulled my KBT2 out. My NiMH's are outboard - attached to > the > bottom of my K2 with velcro and have a very short lead to the back of the > radio. With one of those 15 minute charges, I can be fully charged in less > than > an hour (10 cells, 3 charge cycles, 4 cells/charge cycle). > > I've seriously considered the LiPo's as an option, but initial cost keeps > me > with the NiMH's. I found a good site for those who want to tinker with > them... > > http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=897 > > I have no financial interest in this company - I only found them while > googling > for LiPo's a few months ago. > > The only problem with the NiMH AA's ... in my house they often get > snatched up > for another form of wireless ... the wireless gamecube controllers in the > living room. > > 72/73, > Daniel AA0NI > Oklahoma City > > > --- John Harper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >> Rod, >> >> I haven't tested NiMH batteries yet and probably won't since I don't own >> any >> and can't justify the expense in purchasing them + another charger since >> I >> already have a growing LiPo collection. However, if someone wanted to >> send >> me a NiMH or two, I'll gladly test it/them, post the results and pay for >> return postage - as long as they email me first and let me know. That >> way I >> don't get redundant batteries...;-) >> >> Regarding the charging of LiPos: you are correct in that a dedicated >> charger >> is needed and that the manufacturer's instructions should be followed. >> The >> links I posted at the bottom of my page were meant to address this (and >> the >> many other) aspects of LiPo batteries - I'm only interested in >> describing & >> comparing their behavior in regards to my recent QRP operation and the >> previously-used alkalines. Google is available to those seeking more >> info >> than could possibly be contained on a single website. >> >> Thanks and 73, >> >> John Harper AE5X >> Portable QRP: http://www.ae5x.com >> >> >> >> >> >> - Original Message - >> From: "Rod N0RC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> To: "John Harper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> Cc: "QRP-L" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Elecraft" >> >> Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2006 9:55 AM >> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Battery use with QRP rigs - page updated >> >> >> > John, >> > >> > On 6/10/06, John Harper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> >> I've finally gotten around to updating my "batteries" page to reflect >> my >> >> experiences with my new-found love, Lithium-Polymer batteries: >> >> http://www.ae5x.com/batts.htm >> >> >> >> Comments, suggestions & experiences of other outdoor QRP ops are most >> >> welcome. >> > >> > Missing from your analysis are NiMH batteries, which i believe to be a >> > viable alternative to LiPo cells. I don't have access to a West Mt. >> > Battery Analyzer, so I can't offer a detailed analysis. Perhaps you >> > can add that to make your analysis more complete. One advantage NiMH >> > batts have are lower cost, OTH I suspect they weigh a bit more. >> > >> > An import consideration WRT to LiPo that you fail to mention is >> > charging requirements. LiPo has had problems with charging, sometimes >> > catastrophic. It is VERY important to follow the manufacturers >> > recommendations and use the proper charging equipment. >> > >> > -- >> > 73, Rod N0RC >> > >> > >> >> ___
Re: [Elecraft] SMT project thanks
Joe, aa4nn wrote: And an ambitious project, indeed, Vic! I feel bad about suggesting a "starter kit" LED Tune kit while your sights were set so much higher. hi 73 & good luck. What appeals to me about the Micro-908 is that it's more than an exercise, being very useful for a lot of things. I'm not worried about it being complicated; one thing I learned from building the K2 is that I can do anything if I break it into small enough pieces and take as much time as I need with each! It also helps to have a comfortable, clean, neat work area and the right tools. I want to build a software-defined radio some day and this is a place to start. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 30-foot Telescoping Fiberglas Poles
> I've visited the Jackite site. They are offering their 32' poles > (black or orange) for $54. > I thought someone had found similar poles for a bit less than the > Jackite price, however I may be in error here. I have a few 31-foot orange Jackite poles for sale. Brand new. The price is $54 each which *includes* CONUS shipping. Pay by Paypal/Check/MO. 73, Charlie N0TT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] OT - 30-foot Telescoping Fiberglas Poles
Thanks for the Idea. This might Help at Jamboree on the Air setups. Richard Kent -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Hammond Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 10:25 AM To: Dan KB6NU; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] OT - 30-foot Telescoping Fiberglas Poles Hi Dan: I'm posting my reply to your query to the Elecraft reflector as well, in the hope that it might assist others in procuring "failed" hot poles as well. You wrote: >Can you describe what you mean by "hot poles"? And any idea how I >could get hold of some from the local electric company here? When >they fail the test, are they sold as surplus or just destroyed? Generally, most electric utilities will destroy hot poles which fail their Hi-Pot tests. They don't want to risk that someone might get hold of one and then try to 'work' on their local wires with it...! HOWEVER... if you can develop a relationship with someone at your local utility, especially if you can convince them that their failed hot poles would be the best thing since sliced bread for local hams to use as EMERGENCY ANTENNA SUPPORTS, you might be able to get them to allocate some of their failed poles to your use. It happened that one of our club members worked at an electric co-op which was tossing several poles and he (basically) just went out and scarfed them out of the trash bin before the trash collectors got to them. I think we managed to get hold of about 6-8 that way. Then, a couple years ago, when the State of MO held an emergency comms exercise in the St Louis area, with emergency services reps from many city / county / private groups present, the comms rep from Missouri's largest electric utility was present and he saw is using a couple of the hot poles for supporting our HF dipoles and a couple VHF verticals. He mentioned the fact to one of our comms guys who immediately put the 'arm' on him for their company to make their failed poles available for the same usage, rather than destroying them. It worked, and we came away with a dozen or so poles, most of which have been distributed to ARES and emergency preparedness groups throughout the state. A VERY worthwhile project. There are also companies (www.tmascto.com, for example) which sell NEW hot poles. But the price is fairly significant. Good luck, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT - 30-foot Telescoping Fiberglas Poles
Hi Dan: I'm posting my reply to your query to the Elecraft reflector as well, in the hope that it might assist others in procuring "failed" hot poles as well. You wrote: Can you describe what you mean by "hot poles"? And any idea how I could get hold of some from the local electric company here? When they fail the test, are they sold as surplus or just destroyed? Generally, most electric utilities will destroy hot poles which fail their Hi-Pot tests. They don't want to risk that someone might get hold of one and then try to 'work' on their local wires with it...! HOWEVER... if you can develop a relationship with someone at your local utility, especially if you can convince them that their failed hot poles would be the best thing since sliced bread for local hams to use as EMERGENCY ANTENNA SUPPORTS, you might be able to get them to allocate some of their failed poles to your use. It happened that one of our club members worked at an electric co-op which was tossing several poles and he (basically) just went out and scarfed them out of the trash bin before the trash collectors got to them. I think we managed to get hold of about 6-8 that way. Then, a couple years ago, when the State of MO held an emergency comms exercise in the St Louis area, with emergency services reps from many city / county / private groups present, the comms rep from Missouri's largest electric utility was present and he saw is using a couple of the hot poles for supporting our HF dipoles and a couple VHF verticals. He mentioned the fact to one of our comms guys who immediately put the 'arm' on him for their company to make their failed poles available for the same usage, rather than destroying them. It worked, and we came away with a dozen or so poles, most of which have been distributed to ARES and emergency preparedness groups throughout the state. A VERY worthwhile project. There are also companies (www.tmascto.com, for example) which sell NEW hot poles. But the price is fairly significant. Good luck, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Battery use with QRP rigs - page updated
I've run NiMH's (2200 or 2400 mAh) from WalMart - using a 10 AA-cell holder from Mouser. At 5W, I start getting the low voltage 'beep' in the headphones after an hour or two of use. If I run at 1W, I figure I can get 4-6 hours (enough for a short sprint). I haven't checked out the webpage yet to see what sort of results you're asking about with regards to NiMH's. I switch to the NiMH's after I pulled my KBT2 out. My NiMH's are outboard - attached to the bottom of my K2 with velcro and have a very short lead to the back of the radio. With one of those 15 minute charges, I can be fully charged in less than an hour (10 cells, 3 charge cycles, 4 cells/charge cycle). I've seriously considered the LiPo's as an option, but initial cost keeps me with the NiMH's. I found a good site for those who want to tinker with them... http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=897 I have no financial interest in this company - I only found them while googling for LiPo's a few months ago. The only problem with the NiMH AA's ... in my house they often get snatched up for another form of wireless ... the wireless gamecube controllers in the living room. 72/73, Daniel AA0NI Oklahoma City --- John Harper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Rod, > > I haven't tested NiMH batteries yet and probably won't since I don't own any > and can't justify the expense in purchasing them + another charger since I > already have a growing LiPo collection. However, if someone wanted to send > me a NiMH or two, I'll gladly test it/them, post the results and pay for > return postage - as long as they email me first and let me know. That way I > don't get redundant batteries...;-) > > Regarding the charging of LiPos: you are correct in that a dedicated charger > is needed and that the manufacturer's instructions should be followed. The > links I posted at the bottom of my page were meant to address this (and the > many other) aspects of LiPo batteries - I'm only interested in describing & > comparing their behavior in regards to my recent QRP operation and the > previously-used alkalines. Google is available to those seeking more info > than could possibly be contained on a single website. > > Thanks and 73, > > John Harper AE5X > Portable QRP: http://www.ae5x.com > > > > > > - Original Message - > From: "Rod N0RC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "John Harper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Cc: "QRP-L" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Elecraft" > Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2006 9:55 AM > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Battery use with QRP rigs - page updated > > > > John, > > > > On 6/10/06, John Harper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >> I've finally gotten around to updating my "batteries" page to reflect my > >> experiences with my new-found love, Lithium-Polymer batteries: > >> http://www.ae5x.com/batts.htm > >> > >> Comments, suggestions & experiences of other outdoor QRP ops are most > >> welcome. > > > > Missing from your analysis are NiMH batteries, which i believe to be a > > viable alternative to LiPo cells. I don't have access to a West Mt. > > Battery Analyzer, so I can't offer a detailed analysis. Perhaps you > > can add that to make your analysis more complete. One advantage NiMH > > batts have are lower cost, OTH I suspect they weigh a bit more. > > > > An import consideration WRT to LiPo that you fail to mention is > > charging requirements. LiPo has had problems with charging, sometimes > > catastrophic. It is VERY important to follow the manufacturers > > recommendations and use the proper charging equipment. > > > > -- > > 73, Rod N0RC > > > > > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Pelican Case for K2 Portable Station
Has anyone already solved the question of what Pelican case to use with a K2 "complete" station? I would like to put a K2, with antenna and K1EL K-40, a Heil set, computer keyboard and associated cables into a Pelican. I'm thinking about the Buddipole but an not yet decided. Links to photos and specs would be greatly appreciated! --- I use a Pelican 1600 case; plenty big to hold the whole station but not too big to handle. About the size of a medium suitcase. 73, Byron 73, Mark Baugh W5EZY Grenada MS __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 30-foot Telescoping Fiberglas Poles
I have been very pleased with my MFJ 33' mast. Easy to setup and takedown. Still looking for a light and secure base for it. I presently use a "garden claw" hand tiller stuck in the ground and the mast held in place with a couple of bungee straps wrapped around mast and tiller staff. Antenna is usually a 33' wire with 3-4 33' wire ground radial counterpoises laid on ground. This with a K1. 73, Sandy W5TVW - Original Message - From: "Ken Alexander" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Tom Hammond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2006 8:10 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] 30-foot Telescoping Fiberglas Poles | Also consider the DK9SQ telescoping 33 ft mast, | available from Kanga U.S. | | http://www.bright.net/~kanga/kanga/dk9sq/mast.htm | | 73, | | Ken Alexander | VE3HLS | | | | --- Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: | | > Tom and all, | > | > I don't know about the price comparison, but another | > source is The Mast | > Company - http://www.tmastco.com/ . | > | > 73, | > Don W3FPR | > | > | > > -Original Message- | > > | > > A while back, several folks posted links to a | > number of telescoping | > > fiberglas pole sites. | > > | > > I've visited the Jackite site. They are offering | > their 32' poles | > > (black or orange) for $54. | > > | > > I thought someone had found similar poles for a | > bit less than the | > > Jackite price, however I may be in error here. | > > | > > The Jackite poles look quite good and appear to be | > reinforced in the | > > placed which would normally require such | > reinforcement. | > > | > > I have several 30' 'Hot Poles' from an electric | > company. They failed | > > the semi-annual HV QC tests, but will work | > exceptionally well for | > > general antenna support use (particularly during | > FD), BUT they're a | > > bit on the heavy side and a bit larger in diameter | > than I'd like to | > > have if I was gonna take the pole on a trip in the | > car. Something | > > slightly smaller / lighter is in order for such | > trips. | > > | > > If you have a link to other ECONOMICAL sources of | > heavy-duty | > > telescoping fiberglas poles, please either post | > them to the reflector | > > (preferred) or drop a note to me direct. | > > | > > Hope to order something yet this coming week. | > > | > > Thansk, | > > | > > Tom Hammond N0SS | > > | > | > ___ | > Elecraft mailing list | > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net | > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. | > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): | > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft | > | > | > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm | > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com | > | | ___ | Elecraft mailing list | Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net | You must be a subscriber to post to the list. | Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): | http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft | | Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm | Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com | | | | -- | No virus found in this incoming message. | Checked by AVG Free Edition. | Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/360 - Release Date: 6/9/2006 | | ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] SMT project thanks
And an ambitious project, indeed, Vic! I feel bad about suggesting a "starter kit" LED Tune kit while your sights were set so much higher. hi 73 & good luck. de Joe aa4nn I've decided to build the AMQRP Micro-908 (see > http://www.amqrp.org/kits/micro908/index.html#Description%202 They >are currently sold out, but expect to produce more kits soon. This is >an ambitious project, but what you get is amazing. > >Vic, K2VCO >Fresno CA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT: Portable Antenna for K2
For 20M (and it will work thru 10M, possibly on 30M) an easy to build wire antenna with some gain is a half square. It can be corner fed with coax quite easily. Cebik's (w4rnl) site has dimensions to match 50 ohm coax. A google search for "half square antenna" will yeild a plethora of sites. It's a great DX antenna, but you may get weirded out by how quiet it is initially. Now if I can just figure out what kind of antenna to use on the cruise ship to Alaska... ;o) 72, Julius n2wn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
