[Elecraft] PBT presets for SSB filters?
I want set up my K2 with some selctable PBT presets and perhaps just 2 filter widths. I frequently use +150 to +250 Hz with my other rig for narrow 1.8kHz filters. I am currently just using the KDSP2 filter with decreasing filter widths and no offsets. What are K2 users favorite ways for setting the KSB2 and KDSP2 for peset CalFil offsets and filter widths for SSB? John K5XTX _ On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: Italy Customs Duties
--- Mario Lorenz [EMAIL PROTECTED] ha scritto: Peppino, the customs tariff really is EU wide, the VAT is not. With the elecraft code, and the paperwork that once was done by the DARC you should be able to get your K2 kit including all options in easily at 0% Customs. What is not EU wide is the VAT, but you do pay that on any goods you buy anywhere. According to Google, VAT in Italy is 20%. So of $1719, assuming an exchange rate of 1.20 USD to the EUR, youre at 1432 EUR import price, and thus you get a VAT in the range you mentioned. Mario, let me disagree. As a first, you're assuming the invoice total amount, including shipping and handling (105 $): no VAT is due on this part, normally. As a second, you must know that in Italy the carriers employees and store-keepers (UPS, TNT, FEDEX, GLS, etc.) fill the forms for customs duty: so there's no possibility to talk about the problem with customs staff. As a third, last but not least, a kit is a kit (didactic finalities), it's not a final product: in other words, we can't assume a radio-kit (spare parts) like an efficient TX/RX equipment (final product). For that, in Italy there're different VAT degrees and 20% is the higher one (not luxury goods). 73, Peppino IS0YPS Chiacchiera con i tuoi amici in tempo reale! http://it.yahoo.com/mail_it/foot/*http://it.messenger.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 C1: on top or on the bottom?
The manual says C1 (4.7 pF) shoud be mounted on the top side of the board, which is also where it's outline is printed. But the schematic in Appendix B indicates it should be 5pF and mounted on the bottom. Can I savely assume the schematic to be wrong? Bart de PA3GYU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Century 22 vs. K2.
In defense of the Ten Tec: - The Century 22 is a design from about 20 years ago. A lot has changed! - The C22 was the bottom-of-the-line for Ten Tec when it was made.Lots of compromises in the design. - IIRC, the C22 receiver is not a superhet like the K2 or K1. It's a form of direct conversion, which means you hear both sides of zero beat, doubling the apparent QRM. All the selectivity is audio, and so is the AGC. - The tuning rate of the C22 is about 18 kHz per turn of the knob. That's a lot faster than the K2, making the band seem more crowded, since one turn takes you through a lot more signals. Both are good rigs. 73 de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KX1 C1: on top or on the bottom?
Bart, Yes, mount C1 on the top of the board and 4.7 pf is fine. The instructions are updated more frequently than the schematics, so in case of disagreement, follow the instructions. With all Elecraft kits, the priority should be errata sheets first, manual instructions second, and everything else after that. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- The manual says C1 (4.7 pF) shoud be mounted on the top side of the board, which is also where it's outline is printed. But the schematic in Appendix B indicates it should be 5pF and mounted on the bottom. Can I savely assume the schematic to be wrong? Bart de PA3GYU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Begali, bygolly. Which one Simplex or Mag Classic?
I'm sold on Begali keys. But not sure which one to get. Has anyone used both the Simplex and Magnetic Classic who might comment on the comparison? Also, how about a Begali vs Schurr Profi comparo? If I had more dough, I would order all three, but that is not the case here. I have a Bencher and a homebrew I made in 1963. I seem to make slightly fewer errors on the homebrew than the Bencher. They both work well, and I am not knocking the Bencher, but I suspect the Begalis are superior to both . Comments would be very welcome. Thanks, George, n4ym ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
AW: [Elecraft] Re: Italy Customs Duties
Peppino, As a first, you're assuming the invoice total amount, including shipping and handling (105 $): no VAT is due on this part, normally. That´s definitively wrong for whole EC. VAT has to be paid on Shipping cost as well. 73 de Peter, DL2FI ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Century 22 vs. K2.
I said: QSK in the C22 is not as good as the K2. The C22 gives thumps and pops in the headphones and speaker during QSK. K2 is far smoother and quieter. Ron Replied: I am surprised! Ten Tec is known for QSK rigs. Perhaps some aging components are in need of service. Well, it could be that. Or maybe a prior owner modified the rig. I noticed the variable filter has a center freq that seems about 500 Hz rather than the as-designed 750 Hz. I'm thinking I'll open it up and have a look around in the area of that circuit to see if there are any changed components. Still, the QSK on every TenTec rig I've had has been just a bit thumpy. Argo 515 (sold it - stupid, stupid, stupid) , Argo 509, Omni D, Omni V, Corsair II, Century 21 and now the Century 22. All sweet rigs, all had good QSK but each one was a bit on the thumpy side. The Century 21 was really bad. Still they are far better than a non-QSK rig. The K2 I find to generate less extraneous nose on TR switch than those rigs, although it is not completely clean either. I was actually quite happy with TenTec's QSK. I'm even happier with Elecraft's. I'm getting' a hankerin' for a K1. And YES, I am quite a bit older. I had my first C22 in about 1987 or 1988. Yikes. - Keith KD1E - - K2 5411 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] High End Paddles
After using a few Bencher BY-1 BY-2 paddles, I picked up a used Kent paddle. I think I spent $90 used for it. It is far better than the Bencher stuff and not that much more. Many people are happy with the BY paddles. As for me, I'm not going back. - Keith KD1E - - K2 5411 - -Original Message- From: Darrell Bellerive With the new K2, and the need to test the built-in keyer, a friend lent me his Bencher BY-1 paddle. What a difference! Although I still need lots of practice, I can use this paddle. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Century 22 vs. K2.
All true Jim. Actually I enjoy the C22. Yes, it has a direct conversion receiver but I find the rig's simplicity enjoyable. RX performance really isn't too bad at all. It handles the crud on 40 meters far better than the Century 21. VFO tuning rate to me is just right. I'm an old school guy who actually expects to turn the knob slowly to tune slowly through the band. The crowded band issue was obviously due to the DC receiver picking up twice the signals. Well, that coupled with signals leaking around the filter producing high freq tones. But, crank the filter to it's narrowest setting and most of these issues go away. And the rig has the key jack on the front! How totally cool! - Keith KD1E - - K2 5411, my real rig. - - Century 22, just for fun - -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 6:32 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Century 22 vs. K2. In defense of the Ten Tec: - The Century 22 is a design from about 20 years ago. A lot has changed! - The C22 was the bottom-of-the-line for Ten Tec when it was made.Lots of compromises in the design. - IIRC, the C22 receiver is not a superhet like the K2 or K1. It's a form of direct conversion, which means you hear both sides of zero beat, doubling the apparent QRM. All the selectivity is audio, and so is the AGC. - The tuning rate of the C22 is about 18 kHz per turn of the knob. That's a lot faster than the K2, making the band seem more crowded, since one turn takes you through a lot more signals. Both are good rigs. 73 de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] High End Paddles (Kent)
If you want to buy Kent and save a few dollars, the kit form is at http://www.kent-engineers.com/twinkit.htm Even with shipping to the US, it was cheaper when I bought the paddles 2 years ago than from any US distributor I could find. I wasn't able to find it in kit form in the US, and I haven't compared prices lately. So you might want to double check. Great paddles, though, and worth every penny. 73! Mike ab3ap Darwin, Keith wrote: After using a few Bencher BY-1 BY-2 paddles, I picked up a used Kent paddle. I think I spent $90 used for it. It is far better than the Bencher stuff and not that much more. Many people are happy with the BY paddles. As for me, I'm not going back. - Keith KD1E - - K2 5411 - -Original Message- From: Darrell Bellerive With the new K2, and the need to test the built-in keyer, a friend lent me his Bencher BY-1 paddle. What a difference! Although I still need lots of practice, I can use this paddle. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] High End Paddles
I'd kind of like to hear from some more people who have used those Black Widow paddles that we got a glimpse of on this list a while ago. They looked intriguing. CPT Drew Neve - 9K2/KB9LLO Battle Captain S3 ASG-Kuwait Eager to Assist - Original Message - From: Mike Markowski [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Friday, June 16, 2006 4:02 pm Subject: Re: [Elecraft] High End Paddles (Kent) If you want to buy Kent and save a few dollars, the kit form is at http://www.kent-engineers.com/twinkit.htm Even with shipping to the US, it was cheaper when I bought the paddles 2 years ago than from any US distributor I could find. I wasn't able to find it in kit form in the US, and I haven't compared prices lately. So you might want to double check. Great paddles, though, and worth everypenny. 73! Mike ab3ap Darwin, Keith wrote: After using a few Bencher BY-1 BY-2 paddles, I picked up a used Kent paddle. I think I spent $90 used for it. It is far better than the Bencher stuff and not that much more. Many people are happy with the BY paddles. As for me, I'm not going back. - Keith KD1E - - K2 5411 - -Original Message- From: Darrell Bellerive With the new K2, and the need to test the built-in keyer, a friend lent me his Bencher BY-1 paddle. What a difference! Although I still need lots of practice, I can use this paddle. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] High End Paddles
Darrell: The better you get, the less satisfied you will be with the Bencher BY-1. The HEX is quite nice. I'm not sure what the Bencher folks mean by it's being better for people who are used to bugs. I suppose they mean that, because it is heavy and hard to knock around, those with robust habits will be better accommodated. But the HEX is perfectly capable of being used by a very, very light touch. So I guess I find their statement misleading. The Begali paddles are quite wonderful, and the Kent are very good. The WBLs are outstanding, but hard to come by. The Mercury paddles are refined HEX paddles, and while they are really quite nice, I don't think they are worth the rather substantial additional price. The Elecraft version of the HEX is a great value. I suspect if you get a Begali, a HEX, or a Kent, you will be very happy. Within this upper range of items, people tend to think that what they have is the best. That means they are all doing the job just fine. best wishes, dave belsley, w1euy On Jun 15, 2006, at 11:56 PM, Darrell Bellerive wrote: I sure have enjoyed this thread on high end paddles. I have so far mostly used just a straight key, but with my new K2 and it's built in keyer I would like to give iambic operation another go. I had a Heathkit uMatic keyer, model SA-5010, with the capacitive touch paddles. Had lots of trouble getting used to those paddles so I purchased a Vibroplex Iambic Deluxe. Well, I was not much better with those, so I gave up on the world of keyers and went back to my straight key. I did use the memories in the uMatic though. A few years later I discovered the article by Chuck Adams, K7QQ, on using an iambic paddle. I found I was using the slap the paddle around the desk method and seldom used the iambic function of the keyer but treating the paddles more like a single lever. Resetting the Vibroplex paddle as Chuck recommends and learning to send with a light touch helped, but I still was having trouble. Ended up selling the paddle when someone wanted the paddle for their collection and I needed a few bucks. With the new K2, and the need to test the built-in keyer, a friend lent me his Bencher BY-1 paddle. What a difference! Although I still need lots of practice, I can use this paddle. Reading the Bencher web site it suggests that the BY-1 series is better for those using a light touch than the Hex Paddle, which is for those more used to a bug. That seems to run contradictory to what I read in this thread and on eHam. So, do those of you who have used both the BY-1 and Hex Paddle agree with Bencher's views? Is the BY-1 really better for those using a light touch? With little money to spend, and a KPA100 and KAT100 also on the wishlist, I am wondering if I should look for a good used BY-1, and save for a better paddle down the road. I doubt I will reach 20 wpm for a few years and I am just learning how to properly use an iambic paddle. Is there a downside to learning with a BY-1 and then moving to something else? Or would it be better to learn with a better paddle from the start? The HEXKEY and Begali Simplex would run in the $215-250 range in Canadian dollars. The Begali magnetic paddles would add another $140 to the price. The Begali Signature would set me back about $475. Used Bencher BY-1's from eBay would cost me less than $100 Canadian dollars. Probably not the best apples and oranges comparison, but I doubt I will find many used HEXKEYs, Begalis, or other high end paddles for sale. I would also be hesitant about buying such an expensive key on eBay for fear of getting one that has been abused. I'd like to hear your opinions and thoughts on my paddle selection, Darrell -- Darrell Bellerive Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com - david a. belsley professor of economics ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KNB2
My experience with the KNB2 is completely negative. I even built a second one, tweaked etc. It does not even compare to ICOM or Yaesu NB's. Wayne, time to redesign. No more spin on what it was designed to do. No matter what it was designed to do, it doesn't eliminate or reduce the most typical noise I encounter. The others do.I love Elecraft. I have built every kit except the K1.73 Joe K4AA Joe Squarzini, Jr. K4AA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] High End Paddles
Quotes from the Bencher website at http://www.bencher.com/whichpaddle.html: Frankly, the BY series paddle, like a fine sports car or a surgical scalpel, does not respond well to the heavy physical input such operators are comfortable with. But that is how old time CW operators, trained on the bugs and single lever paddles, learned their craft. If you are one of these operators, for you Bencher offers the innovative new Hex Paddle. This paddle too is fully iambic, and very nearly as responsive as the BY series paddles, yet is also designed to stand up to the most physical of operators, thanks to the floating instrument grade ball bearing races and magnetic paddle return, not to mention the massive base. The BY series, thanks to its unique pivot-pin bearings, is simply the most responsive iambic paddle available today. So, according to Bencher, the BY series is more responsive than the Hex. Darrell On June 16, 2006 06:22 am, David A. Belsley wrote: I'm not sure what the Bencher folks mean by it's being better for people who are used to bugs. I suppose they mean that, because it is heavy and hard to knock around, those with robust habits will be better accommodated. But the HEX is perfectly capable of being used by a very, very light touch. So I guess I find their statement misleading. -- Darrell Bellerive Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 26, Issue 17
Alsoif you have a nut that you can thread onto the screw before filing, when you back it off after the filing is done it will help restore the threads on the screw. Better yet, put a die on the screw before filing, and when you turn the die off, it will cut the threads clean. Paul, N4LCD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] High End Paddles
Quotes from the Bencher website at http://www.bencher.com/ whichpaddle.html: Frankly, the BY series paddle, like a fine sports car or a surgical scalpel, does not respond well to the heavy physical input such operators are comfortable with. But that is how old time CW operators, trained on the bugs and single lever paddles, learned their craft. The BY paddles are plain and simply not at all like a fine sports car. They are more like an old-style Beetle (or possible a Yugo). If you are one of these operators, for you Bencher offers the innovative new Hex Paddle. This paddle too is fully iambic, and very nearly as responsive as the BY series paddles, yet is also designed to stand up to the most physical of operators, thanks to the floating instrument grade ball bearing races and magnetic paddle return, not to mention the massive base. I have no doubt that pounders will appreciate the HEX for its mass, and it can be adjusted to accommodate heavy fists. It can also be adjusted to be very, very light -- much lighter than can the BY paddles, which begin to stick and hang up and become extremely frustrating. The BY series, thanks to its unique pivot-pin bearings, is simply the most responsive iambic paddle available today. This is pure bunk. So, according to Bencher, the BY series is more responsive than the Hex. Darrell On June 16, 2006 06:22 am, David A. Belsley wrote: I'm not sure what the Bencher folks mean by it's being better for people who are used to bugs. I suppose they mean that, because it is heavy and hard to knock around, those with robust habits will be better accommodated. But the HEX is perfectly capable of being used by a very, very light touch. So I guess I find their statement misleading. -- Darrell Bellerive Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com - david a. belsley professor of economics ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS-Kenwood MC-43S
I have an Kenwood MC-43S mike for sale that is excess to my needs, new in orginal box. Wired for K2 stright across mike header. $35.00 plus $5.00 shipping lower 48. E-Mail me direct. K0ARO Kurt ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Begali, bygolly. Which one Simplex or Mag Classic?
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Also, how about a Begali vs Schurr Profi comparo? I've tried both. They feel different; the Begali is a little stiffer because the pivot is closer to the fingerpieces and the fingerpieces are alloy as opposed to plastic, but they are both excellent keys. It's entirely a matter of personal preference. I personally prefer one to the other, but I won't say which because that's just me! :-) -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] High End Paddles
Darrell Bellerive wrote: Quotes from the Bencher website at http://www.bencher.com/whichpaddle.html: The BY series, thanks to its unique pivot-pin bearings, is simply the most responsive iambic paddle available today. So, according to Bencher, the BY series is more responsive than the Hex. The BY bearing is very low-friction. But so are the ball bearings in the Hex key and in the Begali. One problem with the BY is that the arms are somewhat flexible, so there's a bit of 'give', which -- combined with the long plastic fingerpieces -- makes it feel mushy compared to the other keys mentioned. I modified a BY by making very small plastic fingerpieces for it. I had to countersink the screw heads so my fingers wouldn't hit them. It feels a little less mushy, but is nowhere as stiff as the Begali. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS - K2 top cover with KAT2 7 KIO2
It's sold. snip I just installed the 100 watt option in my basic K2(# 4472) and have no use for the top copy with the KAT2 20w tuner and KIO2 rs-232 interface, fully wired with speaker, Jerry , N2UZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] High End Paddles
Quotes from the Bencher website at http://www.bencher.com/whichpaddle.html: Frankly, the BY series paddle, like a fine sports car or a surgical scalpel, does not respond well to the heavy physical input such operators are comfortable with. But that is how old time CW operators, trained on the bugs and single lever paddles, learned their craft. If you are one of these operators, for you Bencher offers the innovative new Hex Paddle. This paddle too is fully iambic, and very nearly as responsive as the BY series paddles, yet is also designed to stand up to the most physical of operators, thanks to the floating instrument grade ball bearing races and magnetic paddle return, not to mention the massive base. The BY series, thanks to its unique pivot-pin bearings, is simply the most responsive iambic paddle available today. Now that is funny! So an operator who is comfortable with a old bug that uses simple pivot bearings is going to notice a floating instrument grade ball bearing races? I can understand how an operator who learned CW on a keyer may have developed the delicate touch of a watchmaker and may notice the fine differences in bearings and tensions, but I can't imagine a bug operator noticing the difference between a properly-adjusted set of pivot bearings and instrument grade bearings. A bug operator is someone who learned to send on a key that requires him to launch a heavy pendulum hard enough to beat out a nice string of dits and then stopping the dits at just the right instant by slapping the swinging pendulum against a mechanical damper with a clank, and in between make dashes manually by mashing the lever against the dash contacts at just the right time. There's a lot of finesse in using a bug, but not much in the way of a watchmakers touch. Using a bug is a very a *physical* activity compared to keyer paddles. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Begali, bygolly. Which one Simplex or Mag Classic?
I am a single lever paddle nut so have the Begali single lever simplex. It is fantastic although I wish it used the magnetic tension adjustment. The spring adjustments are super fine; it just seems more 21st century to be using magnetic. hi Begali single lever is my favorite amongst single levers like Profi, Kent, Ten-Tec Vibroplex, Mon-Key, Jones, G4ZPY and the Ukraine CT Single Lever. If it's a question of single vs. dual lever, pick your choice and then if it is a question of money, get the cheapest. You won't go wrong with a Begali. I hate I missed his booth at Dayton 2006. de Joe, aa4nn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] High End Paddles
Using a bug is a very a *physical* activity compared to keyer paddles. Ron AC7AC Yes, the way Morse code should be. A full contact sport. When my shoulder gets sore from pumping my Swedish hand key, I switch to my bug for some rest. Rick Dettinger K7MW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] High End Paddles
Using a bug is a very a *physical* activity compared to keyer paddles. Ron AC7AC Not the way I do it. :) http://wilsonarc.org/images/s-n-p_vibroplex_bug-001.jpg http://wilsonarc.org/images/s-n-p_vibroplex_bug-002.jpg http://wilsonarc.org/images/n4wsm_snp01.jpg 72 oo Greg K4KO Tennessee QSO Party - September 10 http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/tqp/rules/tqp06_rules.html ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT: in defense of the BY-series
Hi all, I've heard criticisms of the Bencher BY-series paddles over and over again on this reflector, and honestly I don't have any idea what these critics are talking about. Of course, I learned to send iambically on one from the beginning. I've never used a bug, and I didn't even use a straight key for very long. I guess I don't hit the arms hard enough for them to feel mushy. I tried a hex key and it didn't do anything for me; I don't like the grossly non-linear feel of the magnet return, which feels way too clicky for me. I tried an original Mercury key -- same feel, didn't like it. I much prefer the long spring of my BY-2, which assures that the tension is practically constant across the gap. And I can't imagine setting the tension so lightly that the paddle sticks and hangs up. I haven't tried a Schurr or a Bengali, and I imagine that those are fine paddles. To me, my BY-2 is a wonderful instrument that is finely adjustable over the range of parameters at which I feel comfortable. I use it every day, and I would never want to get rid of it. I submit that those who say that the BY-series paddles are poorly designed or lousy or plain just use a different style of keying that is not suited to the BY-series. I feel sure that most such critics learned to send on devices other than iambic paddles, and still use some of the old habits. There's nothing wrong with that, but that fact doesn't make the BY-series lousy. Admittedly I'm relatively new to CW, but I can send up to about 25 wpm effortlessly (faster than I can receive of course). I know several people who use Bencher BY-series paddles a lot faster than that. In any event, one's personal paddle is obviously a very personal choice. Trying a paddle yourself beats listening to advice from a reflector any day. Sorry about helping to flog the dead horse... 73, - Rob W7GH On Fri, 16 Jun 2006 07:35:37 -0700, David A. Belsley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The BY paddles are plain and simply not at all like a fine sports car. They are more like an old-style Beetle (or possible a Yugo). ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] rf probe
I guess I am missing something here. Why do the banana plugs have to be connected with rg 174 coax ?? If I have to use coax is there a trick to unraveling the braid ?? I cannot seem to get the tips of the banana plugs to accept solder. As always, any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. 73 de Jesse w6jmm ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] OT: in defense of the BY-series
-Original Message- From: Rob Locher W7GH I've heard criticisms of the Bencher BY-series paddles over and over again on this reflector, and honestly I don't have any idea what these critics are talking about. I've owned and loved several Benchers BYs. I was happy with them although I did notice the mushiness now and then, but it was not a problem. Then I got the Kent key. I didn't know what I was missing until I tried something different. I haven't tried a Schurr or a Bengali, Neither have I and I won't until I buy one and have it on my desk. I'm sure they will be another step up the paddle food chain. Right now I'm ignorant of how much better it can be and I'd like to stay that way. I'm a straight key user these days. I had a speed-X straight key. It was fine. I bought a Nye Master key and my sending got better. Hmmm. I bought a Chinese military key and found I liked it better than the other two. I picked up a J-37 and it was ho-hum. Then, I actually spent some money and bought a Junker. Wow, I mean wow, what a difference. The Junker makes the speed-x Chinese military keys feel sluggish and unresponsive. The Junker's adjustability is far better than the other keys I've had and it holds its adjustments very well so far. My point? The speed-x key was a perfectly adequate straight key that I was doing fine with. But, now that I have the Junker, I see how bland that speed-x really was. Spending time with the speed-x prepared me to notice and appreciate the subtle yet important differences that make the Junker worth the $100 I spent on it (that's more than I spent on my paddles). I'm very glad I spent time with Bencher BY1 BY2. It helps me appreciate the Kent more. 73! - Keith KD1E - - K2 5411 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] High End Paddles
Ha! Ha! I've often asked for a bug emulator mode for the keyer so I could key like a bug using the paddles when portable, but pundits always jump up and tell me that I'd be unhappy with the feel of paddles. They're right, of course, and that's now why I wanted it. I just wanted to keep the bug operation, including the ability to send American Morse (which keyers don't allow because it requires using varying lengths of dashes) when using paddles portable in the field. So, instead of having a bug emulator for a keyer, you've come up with the same thing to allow using paddles with a bug! Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Greg Tomerlin - K4KO Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 10:22 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] High End Paddles Using a bug is a very a *physical* activity compared to keyer paddles. Ron AC7AC Not the way I do it. :) http://wilsonarc.org/images/s-n-p_vibroplex_bug-001.jpg http://wilsonarc.org/images/s-n-p_vibroplex_bug-002.jpg http://wilsonarc.org/images/n4wsm_snp01.jpg 72 oo Greg K4KO Tennessee QSO Party - September 10 http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/tqp/rules/tqp06_rules.html ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] rf probe
On 6/16/06, Jesse Nicky [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I guess I am missing something here. Why do the banana plugs have to be connected with rg 174 coax ?? The use of coax is AFAIK* to prevent the probe from picking up stray RF energy from the powered up radio under test. The banana plugs are used as the standard connectors to a DMM. If I have to use coax is there a trick to unraveling the braid ?? I cannot seem to get the tips of the banana plugs to accept solder. I used my wire cutter to make a parallel cut to the braid (parallel to the length of the cable) to allow the braid to pulled to one side of the insulation and then twist the braid into a wire. This might not be the best solution, but I filled the small hole in the banana plug with solder, heated the solder, and let the braid (and repeat for the wire inside the coax insulation) rest in the pool of solder until it cools enough to hold it in place. Remember to put the plastic covers inline before soldering. As always, any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I hope that make sense, and is useful to you. *) AFAIK = As Far As I Know -Michael Taylor, VE3TIX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft email List Official Guidelines - June 16, 2006
ELECRAFT eMail LIST GUIDELINES For those of you who are new to the list, (and for those of us who have rapidly failing memories..), here is a quick list of things to remember when posting to this list. Please save this for future reference. The most important thing to remember is that this is only a hobby - Let's have fun! 1. YOU MUST BE SUBSCRIBED to the [Elecraft] list TO POST to it. (This is done to stop advertising spammers from hitting the list.) Any postings sent to elecraft@mailman.qth.net by addresses different from the exact ones it shows as subscribers will be rejected. This includes alias (forwarded) addresses like [EMAIL PROTECTED] If you use an alias to subscribe you must have it as your from: and return address too. Subscribing with [EMAIL PROTECTED] from your physical address of [EMAIL PROTECTED] will allow you to receive postings, but your postings to the list will be rejected if their from: and reply to: address does not match your subscribe address.. Go to http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft to subscribe and to change your list preferences. To unsubscribe or to change your list preferences (digest, no mail on/off etc.), scroll to the bottom of the page and log in with your subscribed email address and the password that was sent to you by email when you subscribed (and monthly afterwards.) 2. If you want to provide an attachment, .JPG picture or other large file for use on the list, first post it to your personal web page and then post a link to its address in an email to the list. The list strips all attachments to prevent viruses from propagating and to keep the archives at a reasonable size. 3. Please keep the amount of copied text from previous posts to an -ABSOLUTE MINIMUM- in your replies. Always delete -everything- from the prior post except what is necessary to keep your reply in context. Most copied messages can be reduced to one or two sentences to retain context. Remember to delete the email list footer from the previous post and especially avoid copying a long posting and adding 'Me Too!' or something similar. As the number of users on this list grows (over 1500 now) we need to work to minimize information overload... If a reply is -not- of interest to the list, just reply directly to the posting party. 4. If you are overloaded by the volume of individual messages on the list, You can view the daily Elecraft list messages for each month in web format at: http://www.elecraft.com/elist.html . These archives are updated hourly and list postings by subject. Just click on the ones you are interested into read. You can also set your list email preferences to 'no mail' delivery, which still allows you to post to the list when reading via the digest. You can also change your subscription to the DIGEST version, which sends you a single compilation each day. To change your email list options or to subscribe / unsubscribe, go to: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Scroll to the bottom of the page to log into your preferences page and set your mail options to 'no mail'. 4a. Please make an effort to keep list volume under control by resisting the urge to post a comment on every long discussion thread (CW, Soldering etc.) With close to 2,000 list subscribers volume can quickly get out of control if everyone feels the need to comment. while we do not overly restrict the subject matter on this list, please remember that its primary focus is on Elecraft products, and their use. Many people rely on it for pointers on building and troubleshooting their kits. 5. ***Please keep all postings cordial. *** Restrain the urge to email someone admonishing them about a posting. The last thing we want to do is to scare anyone off the list. Overly aggressive postings and negative comments about other posters only serves to scare away new potential list members. Waiting over night before hitting 'send' really helps to put things in perspective.. If you have a complaint about someone or a thread please email it directly to me ( [EMAIL PROTECTED] ) and I'll address it. 5a. Please do not post asking people to stop a particular thread, no matter how long, off topic or repetitive it gets. Email me instead :*). I will step in when I feel it is necessary to end a thread. 5a1. Please exercise restraint in posting when a thread is getting heavily covered. 30 posts on one topic in a day (like the recurring CW thread) is usually excessive. 5b. Please do not post any direct attacks or snide comments directed at a list member. Enthusiastic arguments are encouraged, but please keep everything cordial. Members who verbally attack another (either via the list or via direct email) will be removed from the list. As the 'official' list Cop, I'll jump in as necessary to keep everything orderly. I do this off line and occasionally to the list when it is appropriate. Our goal is to keep the Elecraft list a fun, informative central clearing house for Elecraft information and
[Elecraft] PS for K1 or K2
Has anyone had any experience with using OHR's CUP36-12-1 Power supply for the K1 or K2? Is it acceptable to use. tnx, Jim/k2hn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] rf probe
Hi Jesse, just read your post re the RF probe. Your questions concerning the use of banana plugs are already answered so I'll have a go at the braid unraveling question. I'm using a very small copper brush. It looks like a toothbrush but the brushes are made of copper wire. After having cut away the outer sheath, I use the brush to comb the braid along the axis of the coax, combing from the sheath towards the end of the cable. It may take a few minutes of combing but this results in a set of perfectly aligned copper wires, no sign of interleaving or braid. Then it's really a piece of cake to separate them from the cable. Hope this helps. 73 es gud DX Glenn ON4WIX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] PS for K1 or K2
On Jun 16, 2006, at 11:31 AM, Jim and Carol wrote: Has anyone had any experience with using OHR's CUP36-12-1 Power supply for the K1 or K2? Is it acceptable to use. tnx, Jim/k2hn It should work fine. I use the similar MFJ-4103 (13.8V/2.89A) with my K2. Neither has sufficient output to charge the KBT2, however. 73 - Bob, N7XY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] rf probe
With smaller cables like RG174 (or even RG58) I sometimes do what Glenn, ON4WIX does, using a brush or fine pointed tool to unweave the braid. Most often I use another technique that does *not* require un-weaving the braid. I cut the jacket back and then use a fine pointed tool to push the strands of the braid apart to open a space where I want the center conductor and braid to separate. This can be done without breaking any braid strands, especially if you push the braid back from the cut end a bit to make it expand slightly around the center conductor where you want to make the opening, then push the strands aside with the pointed tool. Then, by bending the braid and center conductor together, I make a loop in the center conductor that I can tease out through the opening in the braid so I can get my pointed tool through the loop and pull all of the center conductor from that point to the cut end through the hole. Pulling the braid tight again, I now have the braid and center conductors neatly separated. Finally I strip off some insulation from the center conductor to expose enough to solder. Ron ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Do you have spare toroids?
Hi all, I am in need of several toroids T44-2 and T44-10 for the input band filters of the PA am going to build. If anybody who have used the services of the Toroid Guy is willing to part with his unused K2 toroids, please contact me off the list. Thanks in advance! 73 Val, LZ1VBK2 2745 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] High End Paddles
Hi Ron, Not exactly. What I have is a couple of small pneumatic switches (mounted in the large wooden box seen in the photo) which I operate by sipping and puffing on a tube attached between the two. Each switch activates one of the two relays you see mounted at the lever end of the bug. A light puff or blow through the tube activates one relay (the bottom actuator) which presses the bug lever to the right (from the operator's perspective) sending dits. A sip on the tube activates the other relay (on top) which presses the bug's lever to the left and closes the dah contact. I'm not very good with the bug, but I use it to ragchew with my elmer WB4CSG one or two times a week. When not using the bug, I send CW using a sip-n-puff device and either a radio's built-in keyer or an external keyer. The March 2004 edition of QST featured an article describing a sip-n-puff device similar to the one I use. http://w4dit.wilsonarc.org/images/fd05/sip-n-puff06.jpg http://w4dit.wilsonarc.org/images/fd05/sip-n-puff07.jpg I also have a sip-n-puff creation which emulates a cootie key or side-swiper, but I am absolutely terrible with it. Awful. Unreadable. I'm lucky if I get two characters sent before I screw up. My mind just refuses to work that way. Sam, my elmer, can send near-perfect code with it. 72 Greg K4KO Tennessee QSO Party - September 10 http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/tqp/rules/tqp06_rules.html -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 1:12 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] High End Paddles Ha! Ha! I've often asked for a bug emulator mode for the keyer so I could key like a bug using the paddles when portable, but pundits always jump up and tell me that I'd be unhappy with the feel of paddles. They're right, of course, and that's now why I wanted it. I just wanted to keep the bug operation, including the ability to send American Morse (which keyers don't allow because it requires using varying lengths of dashes) when using paddles portable in the field. So, instead of having a bug emulator for a keyer, you've come up with the same thing to allow using paddles with a bug! Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Using a bug is a very a *physical* activity compared to keyer paddles. Ron AC7AC Not the way I do it. :) http://wilsonarc.org/images/s-n-p_vibroplex_bug-001.jpg http://wilsonarc.org/images/s-n-p_vibroplex_bug-002.jpg http://wilsonarc.org/images/n4wsm_snp01.jpg ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] rotator control
Anyone out there that has any experience with LAB-VUE (TM) software interfacing to control antenna rotators ? Any suggestions would be appreciated. tnx Gregg Mulder ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 'Dayton' Special - Ends in one week (6/25)
We've had a great response to our Dayton special on the K2, so we have continued to offer it on our web order form after the Dayton show. But all good things must come to an end :-) The K2 special will be available for just one more week and it will end after Sunday, June 25th. Special Offer Details: Purchase a K2 with either: a KSB2, a KAT2 or a KAT100 and get $50 off your purchase. (That's equivalent to a KSB2 for 1/2 off :-)* * One $50 discount per K2 and KSB2/KAT2/KAT100 accessory order. (Order 2 K2s and 2 of the above accessories and get two discounts!) See our on-line order form for details: http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_prod_list.htm Thanks again for all of your support! 73, Eric WA6HHQ Wayne N6KR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT: HT sugestions repeater coverage in Southern OR
Folks, I'm looking to buy an HT. The one I wanted, Kenwood TH-G71A, is discontinued, nutz! So I narrowed down the choices to: Kenwood TH-F6A, Yaesu FT-60R, Yaesu VX-6. Opinions pro/con on these choices? Main requirement is IRLP/EchoLink in and around SW Oregon (Ashland, Medford, Grants Pass, over to the coast... I'll be in that area for and extended period). Comments on repeater access in that area, good/bad marginal??? OERP: I be in quarters with no basement and VERY limited space for shack and/or building (I'll have partially built K2 with me that I want to finish), So I'm also looking for great ideas to make use of limited space. Please respond OFF LIST to minimize list traffic. If there is sufficient interest I post a summary. -- 73, Rod N0RC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] High End Paddles
If there are those of you out there who don't like the feel of plastic finger pieces on your favorite key, or have broken one es would like replacements, you may wish to consider my homemade wooden ones. www.egr.msu.edu/~mulderg My advise for those looking fer a good key is to try as many out as possible before making a decision. Get what feels good fer u. One suggestion for trying several keys at once is to have a KEY NITE at ur ham club meeting. Get all the Ol' timers out there to bring in thier favorites es tell everyone what they like es dislike in a key. This may give an oportunity for several folks to try a new key on fer size, and possibly feel what you've been missing. Just a thought. 73 Gregg ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] High End Paddles
I had an regular on-air friend, a life-long bug user, who, after a long absence, suddenly reappeared using a keyboard. It turned out a stroke cost him most of the motor control of his hands, but he could hunt-and-peck with one finger to send using a keyboard. You're both examples of the great range inventive operators who overcame what many of us might consider insurmountable difficulties to have fun and share your lives and interests with the rest of us. You're a great inspiration! Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Hi Ron, Not exactly. What I have is a couple of small pneumatic switches (mounted in the large wooden box seen in the photo) which I operate by sipping and puffing on a tube attached between the two. Each switch activates one of the two relays you see mounted at the lever end of the bug. A light puff or blow through the tube activates one relay (the bottom actuator) which presses the bug lever to the right (from the operator's perspective) sending dits. A sip on the tube activates the other relay (on top) which presses the bug's lever to the left and closes the dah contact. I'm not very good with the bug, but I use it to ragchew with my elmer WB4CSG one or two times a week. When not using the bug, I send CW using a sip-n-puff device and either a radio's built-in keyer or an external keyer. The March 2004 edition of QST featured an article describing a sip-n-puff device similar to the one I use. http://w4dit.wilsonarc.org/images/fd05/sip-n-puff06.jpg http://w4dit.wilsonarc.org/images/fd05/sip-n-puff07.jpg I also have a sip-n-puff creation which emulates a cootie key or side-swiper, but I am absolutely terrible with it. Awful. Unreadable. I'm lucky if I get two characters sent before I screw up. My mind just refuses to work that way. Sam, my elmer, can send near-perfect code with it. 72 Greg K4KO Tennessee QSO Party - September 10 http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/tqp/rules/tqp06_rules.html ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] rf probe
I find that the shield is not particularly flexible and soon breaks and unravels. With RG-174, just cut the shield back, leaving approx. 1/16 exposed beyond the outer wrapper. Wrap a flexible piece of stranded hookup wire around the exposed shield and solder it to the shield. Cover the exposed shield/solder joint with some shrink tubing and solder the other end of the hookup wire to wherever its going. Hookup wire survives flexing much better than the cable shield. On Fri, 16 Jun 2006 10:43:09 -0700, Jesse Nicky [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I guess I am missing something here. Why do the banana plugs have to be connected with rg 174 coax ?? If I have to use coax is there a trick to unraveling the braid ?? I cannot seem to get the tips of the banana plugs to accept solder. As always, any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] High End Paddles
Varying lengths of dashes? I surely don't remember that when I practiced American Morse circa 1952. de Joe, aa4nn --- I just wanted to keep the bug operation, including the ability to send American Morse (which keyers don't allow because it requires using varying lengths of dashes) when using paddles portable in the field. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT: Obsolete Transistor MS1700G
I am working on a power supply with a linear regulator circuit containing two MS1700G power transistors that have shorted. I don't think they are in any way exotic, and I'm sure there is a modern replacement. But I can't find any specification information anywhere to begin the replacement analysis. The only internet search results for a MS1700G are from distributors that have $250 minimums and are only providing a quote. None of the normal providers (Digikey, Mouser, JAMECO etc. stock this transistor.) Does anyone have a reference or spec sheet information regarding these transistors? Thanks HOWARD W. ASHCRAFT, Jr. Direct Dial: (415) 995-5073 [EMAIL PROTECTED] HANSON 425 Market Street, 26th Floor BRIDGETTSan Francisco, CA 94105-2173 MARCUS Direct: (415) 995-5073 VLAHOS Main: (415) 777-3200 RUDY, LLP Fax: (415) 541-9366 * This communication, including any attachments, is confidential and may be protected by privilege. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please immediately notify the sender by telephone or email, and permanently delete all copies, electronic or other, you may have. To ensure compliance with requirements imposed by the IRS, we inform you that any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments) was not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for the purpose of (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting, marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter addressed herein. The foregoing applies even if this notice is imbedded in a message that is forwarded or attached. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] High End Paddles
Well, actually there is one case. Zero is a long dash which I can't send with my K1EL keyer or my K2. www.chss.montclair.edu/~pererat/percode.htm As a teen in the mid-50's, my friends and I learned American Morse just so we could get on 80m at night with each other and confuse others on the band. Calling either the landline code or the Continental code Morse is one of the better examples of Life isn't fair. Sam F. B. Morse's idea was to have a series of numbered messages and parts of messages in a dictionary, from which you constructed what you wished to send and then sent the numbers, and he spent the vast majority of his time compiling that dictionary. Sam was fairly full of himself, and when he didn't get enough attention, he would fall ill, often in someone else's bed. His assistant, Alfred Vail, realized that the clicking and clacking of the paper tape inker could be used to decode the code and came up with the alphabet. So, if life were fair, it would have been the Vail code. Old Sam didn't really invent the telegraph either, but that's another story. Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw Joe-aa4nn wrote: Varying lengths of dashes? I surely don't remember that when I practiced American Morse circa 1952. de Joe, aa4nn --- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] High End Paddles
Fred Jensen wrote: Well, actually there is one case. Zero is a long dash which I can't send with my K1EL keyer or my K2. Ooops, there are two cases, I forgot about L. I can't send that with a keyer either. Fessing up to that error, I remain, Fred K6DGW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Obsolete Transistor MS1700G
Transistor substitution: If there is at least one good junction in the device you want to replace; you measure the diode potential of that junction to see if you have a silicon or germanium device: 0.3 volts is typical for Germanium, perhaps a bit less. 0.6 volts is a Silicon junction. Now you know the case you have on the device, (is it one of the typical power transistor heat sinkable cases like TO3 (metal) or TO 220 Plastic with metal tab?) You can go to the NTE replacement semiconductor catalog and find similar power transistors, and with knowledge of how much voltage and current maximum the circuit handles, you pick a device and try it out. You always replace a device with a similar device and the gain should be about the same. You can get an idea of the gain by comparing the base and emitter/ collector resistors. Luckily, except for getting too high a gain in critical feedback circuits, this usually works pretty well for such as a power supply application. I could not find a direct cross to the MS 1700G in the NTE list; but there is likely a similar transistor that would do fine; just you have to know if you are replacing a silicon or germanium type. Picking a higher rated voltage and current capable transistor is OK. Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] High End Paddles
Yes, those are the two. Actually the long-dash zero is the only one I use on the Ham bands. Sounds like that's the case for you too, Hi! Many Hams have given up and instead use a single dash T for a zero on their keyers, which works OK when heard in context. My problem is that I can't easily switch between a bug and a keyer. When I get on a keyer I'll instinctively start leading it so the logic can do all the timing for me. I'm just telling it what to do; the logic takes care of doing it right. And it easy to drop back into Iambic keying, which is wonderfully easy and smooth. Unfortunately, a Bug can handle neither and make intelligible code G. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Fred Jensen wrote: Well, actually there is one case. Zero is a long dash which I can't send with my K1EL keyer or my K2. Ooops, there are two cases, I forgot about L. I can't send that with a keyer either. Fessing up to that error, I remain, Fred K6DGW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Need RG-174 And 1N34A
I am in need of a few 1N34A diodes and about 3 feet of RG-174 coax. Does anyone on the board have these that I may purchase? Mark Saunders, KJ7BS Glendale, AZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] rf probe
Another classic way of using coax braid, is to push the braid back up the central conductor, after removing the outer vinyl jacket. Once you bunch the braid, it spreads out and you can use a sharp pointed tool to make a hole by spreading the crossed strands. Using the pointed tool or a hook tool, pull the insulated center conductor back thru this hole by folding a U shape, and hooking the U to pull it thru the braid hole. Now you have the flat braid as one conductor lead, and it will not unravel past the point it is penetrated by the central insulated wire. Proceed to tin and then solder the braid in into the cup of the banana plug; and tin, then solder, the center wire into the other banana plug cup. Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need RG-174 And 1N34A - I GOT SOME
I've located the parts I need (thanks Ron). Thank you to everyone who responded to my query for parts. This is truely a great list. I hope I can return the favor some day. Mark Saunders, KJ7BS Gelndale, AZ Mark Saunders wrote: = I am in need of a few 1N34A diodes and about 3 feet of RG-174 coax. Does anyone on the board have these that I may purchase? Mark Saunders, KJ7BS Glendale, AZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] High End Paddles
There are actually a number of cases for longer dashes. With a bug or SK, for example, one can truly emphasize the yes by sending R with a long dash in the center (di-daahhh-dit). I miss that kind of personalizing of code. One can also send, rather than the mundane dah-di-di-di-dah, something like dah - di - di - di - daahhh, with ease while you're trying to figure what you're going to say next. That element of code has been greatly removed with the keyer. But the irrepressible element of the human soul does come forth through other subtle elements with a keyer. I used a bug for over 40 years, and now, after long getting used to a keyer, I'd never go back -- and I'm sure the chap on the other end feels the same way. The idiosyncratic element to sending with a bug, which almost all bug users have to some extent, particularly the bug lilt, can make for code that is very difficult to copy. And, by the way, for those who love their Bencher BY's and took umbrage at my disparaging comments in my earlier posts, I will express no sorrow at all, but wish them the very best. I envy them the latitude they have for growth -- if they'll only take it. The Bencher BY is kind of like the PC of the paddle world. It must be good because everyone has it, but, in fact, almost everything else is better. best wishes, dave belsley, w1euy On Jun 16, 2006, at 6:15 PM, Fred Jensen wrote: Well, actually there is one case. Zero is a long dash which I can't send with my K1EL keyer or my K2. www.chss.montclair.edu/~pererat/percode.htm As a teen in the mid-50's, my friends and I learned American Morse just so we could get on 80m at night with each other and confuse others on the band. Calling either the landline code or the Continental code Morse is one of the better examples of Life isn't fair. Sam F. B. Morse's idea was to have a series of numbered messages and parts of messages in a dictionary, from which you constructed what you wished to send and then sent the numbers, and he spent the vast majority of his time compiling that dictionary. Sam was fairly full of himself, and when he didn't get enough attention, he would fall ill, often in someone else's bed. His assistant, Alfred Vail, realized that the clicking and clacking of the paper tape inker could be used to decode the code and came up with the alphabet. So, if life were fair, it would have been the Vail code. Old Sam didn't really invent the telegraph either, but that's another story. Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw Joe-aa4nn wrote: Varying lengths of dashes? I surely don't remember that when I practiced American Morse circa 1952. de Joe, aa4nn --- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com - david a. belsley professor of economics ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] rf probe
thx guys-I really appreciate the advice. Now I know how to deal with the braid for the future too. I knew I would be able to get a good response from this group. 73 Jesse w6jmm ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 26, Issue 18
I'm sold on Begali keys. But not sure which one to get. Has anyone used both the Simplex and Magnetic Classic who might comment on the comparison? Also, how about a Begali vs Schurr Profi comparo? If I had more dough, I would order all three, but that is not the case here. I have a Bencher and a homebrew I made in 1963. I seem to make slightly fewer errors on the homebrew than the Bencher. They both work well, and I am not knocking the Bencher, but I suspect the Begalis are superior to both . I'm relatively new to CW compared to most on this reflector, but I've used the BY-2, Hex, Kent Single Paddle, and Schurr Profi 2, and the Schurr won. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] letters
please remove myname from your list i get too much of it thank s very muchbernard panneton ve2le ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft QSO party results
Anyone have an idea when the results of the Elecraft QSO Party held in March will be posted? It's been over 2 months since the submission deadline. 73 ... Craig AC0DS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
