Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

2016-08-11 Thread Edward R Cole

Two more comments:
My station runs on an Astron 50M which I run about 14-foot of #4 
welding wire to the master fuse (30A) and my power distribution 
strips.  I see about 13.7v at the fuse.  My 150w 2m amp gets about 
13.3v under load.


I ran about 35-feet of No.8-4 wire from my ac service to a 60A 
breaker box which I have populated with 40A of breakers.  The nom 
240vac drops less than a volt when I key down my 8877 at 1400w output 
(DC load is 2500w).  I have 15A fuses in the 240v transformer primary 
lines.  The Astron runs at 120vac from the same breaker box.


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

2016-08-11 Thread Edward R Cole
I have the resistance chart for various wire size but find that the 
voltage drop is usually more than ohms law predicts so I go up one 
size just for insurance.


I included 4-foot No.10 Red/Black zip wire (from Powerwerx) with each 
of my 2M80 amplifiers which typically draw 15 amps key-down CW at 80w 
RF output.  Ohms law predicts .00098*2*4*15 = 0.12 volt drop, but 
generally saw about 0.3v drop (but I had another 6-foot of No. 10 
from the PS to workshop power strip).


I'm wiring my new truck with No.8 awg from battery to distribution 
strip in back seat of the crew cab.  Guessing the run will be at 
least 16-foot.  Theory says .00063*2*16*30 = 0.6 volt drop at 
30A.  Battery runs at 14.2 with engine running so that should get me 
13.6v.  Engine off 13.8v will net 13.2 volts which will lower 
amplifier gain a little.  Largest amp draws 25A for 160w output on 
2m.  I have other equipment connected but only one will be in use at any time.


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 TXMonitor sometimes displays during receive

2016-08-11 Thread Vic Rosenthal
I would have guessed that this was it. If you have a strong RF source in the 
neighborhood, then incoming power reflected back from the K3 would look like 
forward power from the rig, and might be enough to trigger it.
I have a 50 kW AM BC station that I can see from my antenna, and lots of 
'funny' things that happen here are explained by this.

Vic 4X6GP

> On 12 Aug 2016, at 06:49, David F. Reed  wrote:
> 
> Howard,
> 
> thanks for the idea; I now have things set as you suggest. Because it was 
> intermittent it may take a while to know if its "fixed" or not, so I will 
> report back after more testing.  Thanks again for the idea.
> 
> 73 de Dave, W5SV
> 
>> On 8/12/2016 01:48, Howard Stephenson wrote:
>> Dave,
>> 
>> Try this from P3 MCU 1.60 / SVGA 1.34 / March 21, 2016  release notes:
>> 
>> Enable/disable TX sensing at the TxMon coupler: Added TxSensEn to TxMon
>> sub-menu. This allows enabling/disabling of transmit sensing at the
>> coupler. For K3 and K3S users, TxSensEn can be set to “disabled”, which
>> will use the serial connection from the K3 to determine the TX state.
>> Setting TxSensEn to “enabled” will use forward power sensed at the TxMon
>> coupler to determine TX state (useful for non-Elecraft radios).
>> 
>> 73
>> Howard Stephenson K6IA
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[Elecraft] Hum in K3...

2016-08-11 Thread Dave Cole
Hi,

I and another ham live about 900 feet from each other...  Would one
consider it normal to hear hum, on the other persons signal when
listening to each other, using AM and at one or two watts?  We are both
using a a commercial, decent Power supply, both rated at 30 amps?

-- 
73's, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
For software/hardware reviews see:
http://www.nk7z.net

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 TXMonitor sometimes displays during receive

2016-08-11 Thread David F. Reed

Howard,

thanks for the idea; I now have things set as you suggest. Because it 
was intermittent it may take a while to know if its "fixed" or not, so I 
will report back after more testing.  Thanks again for the idea.


73 de Dave, W5SV

On 8/12/2016 01:48, Howard Stephenson wrote:

Dave,

Try this from P3 MCU 1.60 / SVGA 1.34 / March 21, 2016  release notes:

Enable/disable TX sensing at the TxMon coupler: Added TxSensEn to TxMon
sub-menu. This allows enabling/disabling of transmit sensing at the
coupler. For K3 and K3S users, TxSensEn can be set to “disabled”, which
will use the serial connection from the K3 to determine the TX state.
Setting TxSensEn to “enabled” will use forward power sensed at the TxMon
coupler to determine TX state (useful for non-Elecraft radios).

73
Howard Stephenson K6IA
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 -TX test not sticky

2016-08-11 Thread Ed Muns
I think the current firmware implementation for this (non-sticky) is OK.
But, I sympathize with your concern.

In my use of the K3 (SN-11, SN-17 and SN-4959, with all the possible K3S
upgrades), I sometimes wish TX TEST were sticky through a power cycle, but
most times am glad it is not sticky.

Even though I'm a long-time K3 user, I'm still sometimes baffled when
transmit doesn't work due to the rig being in TX TEST mode.  I've lost count
of how many contests I've started with no one coming back to me when I
eventually discover I was still in TX TEST mode from testing before the
contest.  Thus, the argument for non-sticky.

OTOH, lately I've been spending a lot of time with CSS (the Contest Super
Simulator) and I'm having the opposite issue.  I fire up the simulator,
WriteLog and the K3, only to realize (long into my simulation session) that
I am transmitting rather than being in TX TEST mode.  This is due to the
non-sticky aspect through a power cycle.

So, I can see both sides, but on balance I believe the current non-sticky
implementation is best.

BTW, one could argue for a user-configuration parameter in CONFIG to choose
between sticky and non-sticky, but I still think that is a waste of Wayne's
valuable firmware time for little benefit.

Ed W0YK


Brian K3KO wrote:

Recently I was doing something requiring that K3 not transmit power.
TX test was selected.

I expected that it would retain this setting after shutdown and 
subsequent restart.

It does NOT stick with a K3 S/N 8XXX and FW 5.38.

Is this the way it is supposed to work?

Fortunately we didn't transmit into anything and destroy it.

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 TXMonitor sometimes displays during receive

2016-08-11 Thread Howard Stephenson
Dave,

Try this from P3 MCU 1.60 / SVGA 1.34 / March 21, 2016  release notes:

Enable/disable TX sensing at the TxMon coupler: Added TxSensEn to TxMon
sub-menu. This allows enabling/disabling of transmit sensing at the
coupler. For K3 and K3S users, TxSensEn can be set to “disabled”, which
will use the serial connection from the K3 to determine the TX state.
Setting TxSensEn to “enabled” will use forward power sensed at the TxMon
coupler to determine TX state (useful for non-Elecraft radios).

73
Howard Stephenson K6IA
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 TXMonitor sometimes displays during receive

2016-08-11 Thread David F. Reed

Don,

thanks for the help; I will answer your questions in line between them...

On 8/11/2016 22:29, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Dave,

What do you see on the display when that happens?  If there is no TX 
RF present, you should see a straight line.  If you are seeing an 
envelope display, then the K3 is actually going into transmit.


I see an envelope, but not the same as when talking; it looks like a 
horizontal tear drop.




If you have a computer connection and also have the K3 menu parameter 
for PTT-KEY set to RTS or DTR, I would be suspicious that your 
computer is putting the K3 into transmit.  Set PTT-KEY to OFF-OFF and 
see if the problem goes away. 


They were, SET to TX in DXLab Commander; I have changed them to OFF.

If it does, there is nothing wrong with the K3/P3 and your fix will be 
at the computer or whatever software application you are using.


Well, its not fixed, it is still doing it, and I note that the K3 is 
staying in receive all the while; to TX led, RX not interrupted.


73 de Dave, W5SV






73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/11/2016 5:30 PM, David F. Reed wrote:
Using my P3 monitor, set to display when TX is going on, sometimes 
goes into displaying TX for a few seconds while I am receiving.


Has anyone else seen this, and know of a fix?





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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 Amp Issue

2016-08-11 Thread Jim via Elecraft
Thanks folks.
Problem solved!
JimW7JHR
 

Sent from Yahoo Mail. Get the app 

On Thursday, August 11, 2016 5:15 PM, Don Wilhelm  
wrote:
 

 Jim,

ANT1/ANT2 is a per band setting.  If you have not set the antenna port 
to the antenna you are using, then the antenna selected could be random.

Go to each band and set the antenna to whichever antenna is connected, 
then test the behavior by switching from band to band.

If you bought the KXAT100 and KX3 used, the prior owner may have had 
specific antenna selections set per band - if you bought it new, it may 
just be a matter of initializing things.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/11/2016 7:32 PM, Jim via Elecraft wrote:
> My KXPA 100 is switching from antenna 1 to antenna 2 on its own when I go 
> from band to band on the KX3.  Anybody know what could be causing this?  
> Also, I only have one antenna.
> Thanks,JimW7JHR
>
>



   
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

2016-08-11 Thread Kevin

Don't forget the Oxygen impregnation and gold connectors.;-)


On 8/11/2016 12:56 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
No Rick, they have developed a new plating process [Cu on Cu] that 
makes 12 ga wire perform like 10 ga wire.  Now, if you wanted to use 
it for speaker wire, you would need yet another plating to prevent 
audio distortion and achieve the highest fidelity.  That makes it more 
expensive.


At least that's what I saw on the Internet and you're not allowed to 
put anything on the Internet that isn't true ...


73,

Fred K6DGW
Sparks NV
Washoe County DM09dn

On 8/11/2016 8:21 AM, rick jones via Elecraft wrote:

I just bought 20' of what was supposed to be 10GA zip wire from that
auction site. It is clearly marked as "Audiopipe 10 Gauge speaker
cable". The conductor is actually 12GA at best. Is this becoming
common practice or is wire going the way of 2X4 lumber?

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ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441


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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 Amp Issue

2016-08-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jim,

ANT1/ANT2 is a per band setting.  If you have not set the antenna port 
to the antenna you are using, then the antenna selected could be random.


Go to each band and set the antenna to whichever antenna is connected, 
then test the behavior by switching from band to band.


If you bought the KXAT100 and KX3 used, the prior owner may have had 
specific antenna selections set per band - if you bought it new, it may 
just be a matter of initializing things.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/11/2016 7:32 PM, Jim via Elecraft wrote:

My KXPA 100 is switching from antenna 1 to antenna 2 on its own when I go from 
band to band on the KX3.  Anybody know what could be causing this?  Also, I 
only have one antenna.
Thanks,JimW7JHR




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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] NEC wire size requirements

2016-08-11 Thread Robin Moseley

So off topic - why start this here at all?
there are loads of general radio groups, facebook groups etc.. this is 
getting silly..


Robin G1MHU 


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[Elecraft] KXPA100 Amp Issue

2016-08-11 Thread Jim via Elecraft
My KXPA 100 is switching from antenna 1 to antenna 2 on its own when I go from 
band to band on the KX3.  Anybody know what could be causing this?  Also, I 
only have one antenna.
Thanks,JimW7JHR 

Sent from Yahoo Mail. Get the app
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] NEC wire size requirements

2016-08-11 Thread Jim Brown
There are several issues with shared neutrals, one of which is that 
currents in single phase systems may not balance well. In the large 
sound systems I designed, I always specified a home run of all three 
conductors from each duplex that I distributed around a stage or worship 
area to the panel. I specified 20A outlets and #12 conductors. The 
intent was to allow portable gear at any of these locations to grab a 
lot of power.


The far greater issue with "shared neutrals" is related to 3-phase 
power, where, thanks to the harmonics present in distorted load 
currents, triplen harmonics (harmonics divisible by 3)  add in the 
neutral rather than cancel. This can result in neutral currents 
significantly larger than the current in one phase, even when loads are 
perfectly balanced. This is what overheated the wiring that started "The 
Towering Inferno," and it was the burning insulation that propagated the 
flames. That' why building codes were changed. :)


Few of us (none?) have 3-phase power in our homes, but most of us are 
fed from one phase of 3-phase systems in the alley or on the street. 
Those harmonics add in the "ground" for the same reasons that they add 
in the neutral, and because most of us are fed by "high-leg Delta" 
systems, we tend to see a lot of harmonic current on our grounds. THIS 
is why we hear "buzz" (triplen harmonics of 60 Hz) in our systems due to 
improper bonding rather than "hum" (pure 60 Hz).


There's an extensive discussion of this in several places on my website. 
The most detailed is in the "White Paper" for audio/video professionals, 
but it's also in the slide show for my talk on Power and Grounding for 
Hams.  k9yc.com/publish.htm


73, Jim K9YC

On Thu,8/11/2016 2:18 PM, Matt Zilmer wrote:
Was this a "shared neutral" type of problem?  I thought NEC ruled that 
out in post-1979 wiring plans. 



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Re: [Elecraft] P3 TXMonitor sometimes displays during receive

2016-08-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dave,

What do you see on the display when that happens?  If there is no TX RF 
present, you should see a straight line.  If you are seeing an envelope 
display, then the K3 is actually going into transmit.


If you have a computer connection and also have the K3 menu parameter 
for PTT-KEY set to RTS or DTR, I would be suspicious that your computer 
is putting the K3 into transmit.  Set PTT-KEY to OFF-OFF and see if the 
problem goes away.  If it does, there is nothing wrong with the K3/P3 
and your fix will be at the computer or whatever software application 
you are using.



73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/11/2016 5:30 PM, David F. Reed wrote:
Using my P3 monitor, set to display when TX is going on, sometimes 
goes into displaying TX for a few seconds while I am receiving.


Has anyone else seen this, and know of a fix?



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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] NEC wire size requirements

2016-08-11 Thread Clay Autery
You are correct... it is new construction add-on to existing...

FYI, when using twisted-pair, each pair essentially functions as 4
parallel wires for cross-section...  So I had to upsize to 1" RWS FMC to
accomodate 2 x 6AWG twisted pairs and not violate the 40% fill limit.

Conduit is NOT required in my locale.  It is being used for shielding
only... although it is UL Listed and installed per code.

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MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 8/11/2016 2:45 PM, Lewis Phelps wrote:
> Depends on the conduit size. Half inch conduit can only carry two #6 wires 
> per NEC, but 3/4” conduit is OK for four #6 wires.
>
> But we weren’t talking here about pulling wire out of an existing conduit, I 
> don’t think.. This was described as a new installation by a code-savvy op, 
> who no doubt is using properly sized conduit..
>
> Lew N6LEW
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] NEC wire size requirements

2016-08-11 Thread Clay Autery
You make a lot of assumptions there:

1) It is not a 50 foot run carrying 120...  It's a 50 foot 4 wire run
carrying 240 volts to the sub-panel from the service plus the neutral
and the green wire. Then a 6-gang box containing 8 x 120 and 4 x 220
receptacles wired independently.
2) IF some day I NEED 60 Amps, I will be able to get it because I BUILT
for it...  No climbing back into the attic.  No buying all new wire.  No
pulling new wire.
3) I don't pay retail.
4) There are other considerations other than cost and electrical
there's RF radiation from and to the wire, etc.  Which is why the wire
is BOTH hand-twisted into pairs AND run in bonded flex-steel conduit.

IF I built for 20 amps now, and then later needed 20+ amps, I would have
to REBUILD...  my time is worth more than the cost differential.  I want
to TALK on the radio and build OTHER stuff... NOT do repeated upgrades
of my power infrastructure.

Bottom Line:  My stuff works and doesn't break.  I don't have to use my
time to do stuff twice.  And because I want to...  :-)

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(318) 518-1389

On 8/11/2016 2:03 PM, Lewis Phelps wrote:
> At retail rates (e.g. price per foot from lower.com) #6 wire is 89 cents per 
> foot, and #12 wire is 8.2 cents per foot;  assuming Clay’s 50 foot run and 3 
> wires for a 110 VAC circuit with ground, per NEC, the added cost for wire 
> would be $121.20.  
>
> Is it “good engineering practice?”  It seems to be to be OK from an 
> electrical standpoint, albeit unnecessary, and unnecessary from a cost 
> standpoint, albeit not harmful. 
>
>  I can certainly understand “over-specifying” wire size in a 12 volt circuit, 
> and using larger wire size than is required simply from considering ampacity, 
>  because the voltage drop is a much larger change proportionally, but I 
> really don’t see the benefit from the expense and added installation 
> difficulty of using larger-than-required wire for a 120VAC supply circuit.
>
> according to the online calculator at 
> http://www.southwire.com/support/voltage-drop-calculator.htm, which takes 
> into account both resistance and reactance of the wire:
>
> — for a 50 foot run of cable of #6 wire, at 20 amps and 120 volts AC single 
> phase,  the total voltage drop will be 0.884 volt, or 0.74%, for a net 
> voltage at the end of the circuit of 119.1 volts (rounding)
> — for the same run with #12 wire, the total voltage drop will be 3.472 volts, 
> or 2.90 percent, for a net voltage at the end of the circuit of 116.5 volts 
> (rounding). 
>
> The 3.47 volt drop would be intolerable in a 12 volt circuit providing power 
> directly to amateur radio equipment, but seems to me irrelevant if feeding a 
> competently-designed power supply that reduces the 120 volts AC  supply to 
> some lower voltage of DC supply. Any ham radio power supply that is specified 
> to operate on 120 VAC should be able to operate without difficulty from a 
> 116.5 volts supply.
>
> So, why go to the extra expense of #6 wire? While it seems to me to be to be 
> harmless to “over-spec” the wire size, it also seems expensive and not 
> necessary either per requirements of Section of 310-15 of the NEC or from a 
> “good operating practices” perspective. 
>
> Lew N6LEW
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[Elecraft] P3 TXMonitor sometimes displays during receive

2016-08-11 Thread David F. Reed
Using my P3 monitor, set to display when TX is going on, sometimes goes 
into displaying TX for a few seconds while I am receiving.


Has anyone else seen this, and know of a fix?

Thanks & 73 de W5SV, Dave

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] NEC wire size requirements

2016-08-11 Thread Walter Underwood
I think it was shared neutral. The cubicle wiring design could well have been 
from before 1979.

On the other hand, one of the graphics boxes for the HP 300 series had two 
power supplies with two power cords, so we were pushing the cubicle wiring 
pretty hard.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Aug 11, 2016, at 2:18 PM, Matt Zilmer  wrote:
> 
> Was this a "shared neutral" type of problem?  I thought NEC ruled that out in 
> post-1979 wiring plans.
> 
> 73,
> 
> matt W6NIA
> 
> 
> On 8/11/2016 2:10 PM, Walter Underwood wrote:
>> In the late 1980’s, we had some cubicle wiring fires at HP Labs caused by 
>> computer power supplies. They had to replace all  the wiring with bigger 
>> conductors and connectors for the neutral. The same thing happened with 
>> Project Athena at MIT.
>> 
>> wunder
>> K6WRU
>> Walter Underwood
>> wun...@wunderwood.org
>> http://observer.wunderwood.org/  (my blog)
>> 
>> 
>>> On Aug 11, 2016, at 1:09 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:
>>> 
>>> On Thu,8/11/2016 12:03 PM, Lewis Phelps wrote:
 So, why go to the extra expense of #6 wire?
>>> All the calculators assume sinusoidal current (i.e., a perfect 60 Hz sine 
>>> wave). That's not the real world -- only un-controlled heating elements 
>>> draw sine wave current. For at least the past 30+ years, electronic loads 
>>> dominate, and the what's connected to the power line is a 
>>> transformer-rectifier-capacitor power supply, and now usually as the input 
>>> to an SMPS. The line current drawn by such a supply takes the form of short 
>>> pulses at positive and negative peaks of the 60 Hz waveform, so both IR 
>>> drop and dissipation is much greater than predicted by simple sine wave 
>>> analysis. None of this is taken into account by NEC.
>>> 
>>> Thus, it IS good engineering practice to oversize AC conductors.
>>> 
>>> There's a tutorial discussion of this in
>>> 
>>> http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf
>>> 
>>> 73, Jim K9YC
>>> 
>>> __
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> 
> -- 
> Always store beer in a dark place.  - R. Heinlein
> 
> Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
> [Shiraz]
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] NEC wire size requirements

2016-08-11 Thread Matt Zilmer
Was this a "shared neutral" type of problem?  I thought NEC ruled that 
out in post-1979 wiring plans.


73,

matt W6NIA


On 8/11/2016 2:10 PM, Walter Underwood wrote:

In the late 1980’s, we had some cubicle wiring fires at HP Labs caused by 
computer power supplies. They had to replace all  the wiring with bigger 
conductors and connectors for the neutral. The same thing happened with Project 
Athena at MIT.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
wun...@wunderwood.org
http://observer.wunderwood.org/  (my blog)



On Aug 11, 2016, at 1:09 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:

On Thu,8/11/2016 12:03 PM, Lewis Phelps wrote:

So, why go to the extra expense of #6 wire?

All the calculators assume sinusoidal current (i.e., a perfect 60 Hz sine 
wave). That's not the real world -- only un-controlled heating elements draw 
sine wave current. For at least the past 30+ years, electronic loads dominate, 
and the what's connected to the power line is a transformer-rectifier-capacitor 
power supply, and now usually as the input to an SMPS. The line current drawn 
by such a supply takes the form of short pulses at positive and negative peaks 
of the 60 Hz waveform, so both IR drop and dissipation is much greater than 
predicted by simple sine wave analysis. None of this is taken into account by 
NEC.

Thus, it IS good engineering practice to oversize AC conductors.

There's a tutorial discussion of this in

http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf

73, Jim K9YC

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--
Always store beer in a dark place.  - R. Heinlein

Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
[Shiraz]

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

2016-08-11 Thread Clay Autery
Well, again, you have to define terms...  "good engineering practice". 
Depends on how you define good...

I am known far and wide for my incessant "over-engineering".  I don't
consider it over-engineering.  I am always considering additional
factors in my designs beyond IMMEDIATE cost.

Cost for upgrades, costs for repairs, value of my time if I have to
fix/rework, etc.

Bottom Line:  My stuff works, and my stuff seldom fails... virtually
NEVER due to my work.

Dad taught me a few things/principles...

1) Do it right the first time.
2) Buy the best tools/materials you can afford... If you can't afford to
buy them once, you surely can't afford to buy them again.

So... when I am pulling wire for sure... I try to over-build... I hate
crawling around in attics, etc...

In this instance...  the guy is doing a 20' power cable from his battery
to his radio

I'd use way larger wire than 10 AWG... likely some welding wire with
nice oil/solvent resistant insulation...  I'd twist it because a
non-twisted 20 foot loop makes a fine antenna/radiator.
I'd put nice big copper crimp and solder lugs on the battery end and
adapt it down to the largest Powerpole that would still fit the radio. 
I'd add supplemental screw terminals or something to the battery
terminals to facilitate adding the radio jumper...  and either include
and INLINE fuse mounted in the vehicle near the battery or inline on the
cable near the battery.

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 8/11/2016 1:12 PM, Kevin - K4VD wrote:
> The added cost of a 3x over-build seems like it would be awfully high.
> Is this good engineering practice (seriously, I don't know)? 
>
> Kevin K4VD
>
> On Thu, Aug 11, 2016 at 12:38 PM, Clay Autery  > wrote:
>
> How do you define "necessary".
>
> Paraphrasing K9YC, Jim  "Big wire is your friend".
>
> I agree...
>
> I typically use wire at least 2 sizes larger than "required" 
> Often
> the wire size is determined by how big of a wire I can FIT in the
> application and how much money I can part with at the time.
>
> For instance, on my current power project... I am running 6 AWG x
> 4 from
> the service to the sub-panel @ 50 foot run for a 60 Amp separately
> derived service where there'll never be more than about a 20 Amp total
> demand...
>
> From the sub-panel to the receptacles about 3-1/2 feet below, I am
> using
> 10 AWG  only because that's the largest wire the receptacle
> terminals are rated for.
>
> From the receptacles to all equipment, minimum 10 AWG...
>
> Bigger and shorter the wire, the better...
>
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
>

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] NEC wire size requirements

2016-08-11 Thread Walter Underwood
In the late 1980’s, we had some cubicle wiring fires at HP Labs caused by 
computer power supplies. They had to replace all  the wiring with bigger 
conductors and connectors for the neutral. The same thing happened with Project 
Athena at MIT.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
wun...@wunderwood.org
http://observer.wunderwood.org/  (my blog)


> On Aug 11, 2016, at 1:09 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
> On Thu,8/11/2016 12:03 PM, Lewis Phelps wrote:
>> So, why go to the extra expense of #6 wire?
> 
> All the calculators assume sinusoidal current (i.e., a perfect 60 Hz sine 
> wave). That's not the real world -- only un-controlled heating elements draw 
> sine wave current. For at least the past 30+ years, electronic loads 
> dominate, and the what's connected to the power line is a 
> transformer-rectifier-capacitor power supply, and now usually as the input to 
> an SMPS. The line current drawn by such a supply takes the form of short 
> pulses at positive and negative peaks of the 60 Hz waveform, so both IR drop 
> and dissipation is much greater than predicted by simple sine wave analysis. 
> None of this is taken into account by NEC.
> 
> Thus, it IS good engineering practice to oversize AC conductors.
> 
> There's a tutorial discussion of this in
> 
> http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] NEC wire size requirements (was: Zip Wire Misrepresentation?)

2016-08-11 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft
Also, the number of wires by size in conduit should help the cost equation 
also.   3 ea #6 conductor requires 1" conduit, while 3 ea, #12 can be put in 
1/2" conduit.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Lewis Phelps 
 To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector  
 Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2016 12:03 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [OT] NEC wire size requirements (was: Zip Wire 
Misrepresentation?)
   
I’ve changed the subject line because this discussion has strayed from the 
original question.

At retail rates (e.g. price per foot from lower.com) #6 wire is 89 cents per 
foot, and #12 wire is 8.2 cents per foot;  assuming Clay’s 50 foot run and 3 
wires for a 110 VAC circuit with ground, per NEC, the added cost for wire would 
be $121.20.  

Is it “good engineering practice?”  It seems to be to be OK from an electrical 
standpoint, albeit unnecessary, and unnecessary from a cost standpoint, albeit 
not harmful. 

 I can certainly understand “over-specifying” wire size in a 12 volt circuit, 
and using larger wire size than is required simply from considering ampacity,  
because the voltage drop is a much larger change proportionally, but I really 
don’t see the benefit from the expense and added installation difficulty of 
using larger-than-required wire for a 120VAC supply circuit.

according to the online calculator at 
http://www.southwire.com/support/voltage-drop-calculator.htm, which takes into 
account both resistance and reactance of the wire:

— for a 50 foot run of cable of #6 wire, at 20 amps and 120 volts AC single 
phase,  the total voltage drop will be 0.884 volt, or 0.74%, for a net voltage 
at the end of the circuit of 119.1 volts (rounding)
— for the same run with #12 wire, the total voltage drop will be 3.472 volts, 
or 2.90 percent, for a net voltage at the end of the circuit of 116.5 volts 
(rounding). 

The 3.47 volt drop would be intolerable in a 12 volt circuit providing power 
directly to amateur radio equipment, but seems to me irrelevant if feeding a 
competently-designed power supply that reduces the 120 volts AC  supply to some 
lower voltage of DC supply. Any ham radio power supply that is specified to 
operate on 120 VAC should be able to operate without difficulty from a 116.5 
volts supply.

So, why go to the extra expense of #6 wire? While it seems to me to be to be 
harmless to “over-spec” the wire size, it also seems expensive and not 
necessary either per requirements of Section of 310-15 of the NEC or from a 
“good operating practices” perspective. 

Lew N6LEW



> On Aug 11, 2016, at 11:12 AM, Kevin - K4VD  wrote:
> 
> The added cost of a 3x over-build seems like it would be awfully high. Is
> this good engineering practice (seriously, I don't know)?
> 
> Kevin K4VD
> 
> On Thu, Aug 11, 2016 at 12:38 PM, Clay Autery  > wrote:
> 
>> How do you define "necessary".
>> 
>> Paraphrasing K9YC, Jim  "Big wire is your friend".
>> 
>> I agree...
>> 
>> I typically use wire at least 2 sizes larger than "required"  Often
>> the wire size is determined by how big of a wire I can FIT in the
>> application and how much money I can part with at the time.
>> 
>> For instance, on my current power project... I am running 6 AWG x 4 from
>> the service to the sub-panel @ 50 foot run for a 60 Amp separately
>> derived service where there'll never be more than about a 20 Amp total
>> demand...
>> 
>> From the sub-panel to the receptacles about 3-1/2 feet below, I am using
>> 10 AWG  only because that's the largest wire the receptacle
>> terminals are rated for.
>> 
>> From the receptacles to all equipment, minimum 10 AWG...
>> 
>> Bigger and shorter the wire, the better...
>> 
>> __
>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>> MONTAC Enterprises
>> (318) 518-1389
>> 
>> On 8/11/2016 10:43 AM, Ronnie Hull wrote:
>>> Is 10 gauge necessary?
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>> __
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Lew Phelps N6LEW
Pasadena, CA DM04wd
Elecraft K3-10 / KXV144 / XV432
Yaesu FT-7800 
l...@n6lew.us
www.n6lew.us

Generalized Law of E

Re: [Elecraft] [OT] NEC wire size requirements

2016-08-11 Thread Jim Brown

On Thu,8/11/2016 12:03 PM, Lewis Phelps wrote:

So, why go to the extra expense of #6 wire?


All the calculators assume sinusoidal current (i.e., a perfect 60 Hz 
sine wave). That's not the real world -- only un-controlled heating 
elements draw sine wave current. For at least the past 30+ years, 
electronic loads dominate, and the what's connected to the power line is 
a transformer-rectifier-capacitor power supply, and now usually as the 
input to an SMPS. The line current drawn by such a supply takes the form 
of short pulses at positive and negative peaks of the 60 Hz waveform, so 
both IR drop and dissipation is much greater than predicted by simple 
sine wave analysis. None of this is taken into account by NEC.


Thus, it IS good engineering practice to oversize AC conductors.

There's a tutorial discussion of this in

http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

2016-08-11 Thread Wes Stewart

That's what Al Gore said.

On 8/11/2016 10:56 AM, Fred Jensen wrote:


At least that's what I saw on the Internet and you're not allowed to put 
anything on the Internet that isn't true ...


73,

Fred K6DGW
Sparks NV
Washoe County DM09dn 


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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

2016-08-11 Thread Wes Stewart
The number of tragedies in my life suggest otherwise, but in this case, I must 
live a charmed life.


I have never had RFI issues while using zip cord for speaker wiring in and 
around my ham shack.  I have used the red/black stuff for DC wiring but lately 
I'm using 10 AWG wire made for low-voltage landscaping use.  I also use it for 
connecting the speakers in my audio/video system.  The only downside is that the 
insulation is very thick since it's appropriate for direct burial and I have to 
shave it down a little to get it into the abysmal Power Pole connectors that are 
standard on too many devices these days.


Wes  N7WS

 On 8/11/2016 10:11 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
Over the years, I've bought some of the red/black zip cord at hamfests. While 
I have not measured any of it with a micrometer, my strong impression has been 
that it IS smaller than labeled.


More to the point -- zip cord is TERRIBLE cable for loudspeaker wiring because 
it has very poor RF rejection. It has been well known for more than 120 years 
that twisted pair has quite powerful  rejection of all interference, from a 
few Hz to high RF. Think about it -- for the first 100+ years of telephony, 
telephone wiring ran EVERYWHERE on the same poles as 60 Hz power lines with no 
interference. Their ONLY measure to reject 60 Hz was to have the telephone 
lines cross over each other every few poles along the run. This was enough of 
a twist when the only interference was 60 Hz. Even today, there are huge 
quantities of telephone, intercom, and even audio wiring carried on unshielded 
twisted pair. CAT5/6 carry high data rate signals on opposing pairs without 
interference. At tutorial lectures, I've demonstrated ordinary CAT5 providing 
RF rejection as good as shielded twisted pair into the high VHF range. And 
I've solved more than a dozen instances of RFI to home entertainment systems 
simply by replacing glorified zip cord with twisted pairs of #12 POC (plain, 
ordinary copper).


For the same reason, twisted pair is superior for power wiring in our stations.

As to resistance -- I use the shortest practical runs of #10 between my power 
source (a big 100Ah LiFePO4 battery) and my two K3s. I do this because like 
most 12V radios, it's cleaner (lower levels of key clicks) at higher supply 
voltages.


73, Jim K9YC

On Thu,8/11/2016 8:21 AM, rick jones via Elecraft wrote:
I just bought 20' of what was supposed to be 10GA zip wire from that auction 
site. It is clearly marked as "Audiopipe 10 Gauge speaker cable". The 
conductor is actually 12GA at best. Is this becoming common practice or is 
wire going the way of 2X4 lumber? Suggestions for a reputable source of true 
10GA PTFE zip wire for K3 power?



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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] NEC wire size requirements (was: Zip Wire Misrepresentation?)

2016-08-11 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
It really depends on physical environment particulars, and what it is you
are sizing your DC currents for.

If you are talking about 4 feet, that's one thing. But if it's an RV and
you are wiring up a 13.8 V DC supply circuit run from house batteries,
which are where they are, to the only place in the RV you can stuff a ham
shack, and it's 46.5 feet via the only possible wiring routing, then
voltage drop is a big issue if you want to run a K3 plus whatever from
there. It's even more interesting if what you are planning for is TWO K3's
plus two laptops and whatever, and that's going to be two regular FD
operating positions in a lazy and air-conditioned comfortable RV with
facilities, and a cold fridge at the ready.

I'll run the #4 direct from the battery terminals, and fuse it at 50 amps.
That will allow the big T105 batteries to feed peak current to the shack,
without having to have up-size the charger-converter (which needs to be
sized to the batteries' bulk charge rate, not the load). Let the
charger-converter and all that house DC wiring just worry about keeping the
battery charged, just like we had gone to a site without park power, and
had to do the battery plus generator afternoons thing. Gen comes on and
charger-converter runs bulk charge current for a long period. They're made
to do that.

Also it allows us to run the air-conditioning and the house on the
generator and use the T105's for class 2B on FD. Just use the regular house
battery disconnect and the big batteries are all the transceivers ever see.

In this kind of consideration, spending the absolute least amount of money
possible is not the prime consideration, and a stiff supply voltage at the
far end would justify spending money for copper.

73, Guy.

On Thu, Aug 11, 2016 at 3:03 PM, Lewis Phelps  wrote:

> I’ve changed the subject line because this discussion has strayed from the
> original question.
>
> At retail rates (e.g. price per foot from lower.com) #6 wire is 89 cents
> per foot, and #12 wire is 8.2 cents per foot;  assuming Clay’s 50 foot run
> and 3 wires for a 110 VAC circuit with ground, per NEC, the added cost for
> wire would be $121.20.
>
> Is it “good engineering practice?”  It seems to be to be OK from an
> electrical standpoint, albeit unnecessary, and unnecessary from a cost
> standpoint, albeit not harmful.
>
>  I can certainly understand “over-specifying” wire size in a 12 volt
> circuit, and using larger wire size than is required simply from
> considering ampacity,  because the voltage drop is a much larger change
> proportionally, but I really don’t see the benefit from the expense and
> added installation difficulty of using larger-than-required wire for a
> 120VAC supply circuit.
>
> according to the online calculator at http://www.southwire.com/
> support/voltage-drop-calculator.htm, which takes into account both
> resistance and reactance of the wire:
>
> — for a 50 foot run of cable of #6 wire, at 20 amps and 120 volts AC
> single phase,  the total voltage drop will be 0.884 volt, or 0.74%, for a
> net voltage at the end of the circuit of 119.1 volts (rounding)
> — for the same run with #12 wire, the total voltage drop will be 3.472
> volts, or 2.90 percent, for a net voltage at the end of the circuit of
> 116.5 volts (rounding).
>
> The 3.47 volt drop would be intolerable in a 12 volt circuit providing
> power directly to amateur radio equipment, but seems to me irrelevant if
> feeding a competently-designed power supply that reduces the 120 volts AC
> supply to some lower voltage of DC supply. Any ham radio power supply that
> is specified to operate on 120 VAC should be able to operate without
> difficulty from a 116.5 volts supply.
>
> So, why go to the extra expense of #6 wire? While it seems to me to be to
> be harmless to “over-spec” the wire size, it also seems expensive and not
> necessary either per requirements of Section of 310-15 of the NEC or from a
> “good operating practices” perspective.
>
> Lew N6LEW
>
>
>
> > On Aug 11, 2016, at 11:12 AM, Kevin - K4VD  wrote:
> >
> > The added cost of a 3x over-build seems like it would be awfully high. Is
> > this good engineering practice (seriously, I don't know)?
> >
> > Kevin K4VD
> >
> > On Thu, Aug 11, 2016 at 12:38 PM, Clay Autery  > wrote:
> >
> >> How do you define "necessary".
> >>
> >> Paraphrasing K9YC, Jim  "Big wire is your friend".
> >>
> >> I agree...
> >>
> >> I typically use wire at least 2 sizes larger than "required"  Often
> >> the wire size is determined by how big of a wire I can FIT in the
> >> application and how much money I can part with at the time.
> >>
> >> For instance, on my current power project... I am running 6 AWG x 4 from
> >> the service to the sub-panel @ 50 foot run for a 60 Amp separately
> >> derived service where there'll never be more than about a 20 Amp total
> >> demand...
> >>
> >> From the sub-panel to the receptacles about 3-1/2 feet below, I am using
> >> 10 AWG  only

Re: [Elecraft] [OT] NEC wire size requirements

2016-08-11 Thread Lewis Phelps
Depends on the conduit size. Half inch conduit can only carry two #6 wires per 
NEC, but 3/4” conduit is OK for four #6 wires.

But we weren’t talking here about pulling wire out of an existing conduit, I 
don’t think.. This was described as a new installation by a code-savvy op, who 
no doubt is using properly sized conduit..

Lew N6LEW

> On Aug 11, 2016, at 12:39 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT 
>  wrote:
> 
> On 8/11/2016 12:03 PM, Lewis Phelps wrote:
>> So, why go to the extra expense of #6 wire? While it seems to me to be to be 
>> harmless to “over-spec” the wire size, it also seems expensive and not 
>> necessary either per requirements of Section of 310-15 of the NEC or from a 
>> “good operating practices” perspective. 
> IIRC, there is discussion in the NEC about the total cross section of wires 
> in conduit.  Pulling #10 from existing conduit and replacing it with #6 could 
> in fact be a code violation?
> 
> -- Lynn

Lew Phelps N6LEW
Pasadena, CA DM04wd
Elecraft K3-10 / KXV144 / XV432
Yaesu FT-7800 
l...@n6lew.us
www.n6lew.us

Generalized Law of Entropy: Sooner or later, everything that has been put 
together will fall apart.





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Re: [Elecraft] 60 metre issue

2016-08-11 Thread G4GNX

Thanks Don and Tom, I'll do just that right away.

73,

Alan. G4GNX

-Original Message- 
From: Don Wilhelm 
Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2016 7:18 PM 
To: G4GNX ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 60 metre issue 


Alan,

Contact k3supp...@elecraft.com and they should be able to help you with 
it.  There is firmware to change the band edges.  Run it once and it is 
done.


73,
Don W3FPR
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] NEC wire size requirements (was: Zip Wire Misrepresentation?)

2016-08-11 Thread Lewis Phelps
Sorry, auto spell correct got in the way. That should have read “lowes.com”

lew

> On Aug 11, 2016, at 12:03 PM, Lewis Phelps  wrote:
> 
> I’ve changed the subject line because this discussion has strayed from the 
> original question.
> 
> At retail rates (e.g. price per foot from lower.com ) #6 
> wire is 89 cents per foot, and #12 wire is 8.2 cents per foot;  assuming 
> Clay’s 50 foot run and 3 wires for a 110 VAC circuit with ground, per NEC, 
> the added cost for wire would be $121.20.  
> 
> Is it “good engineering practice?”  It seems to be to be OK from an 
> electrical standpoint, albeit unnecessary, and unnecessary from a cost 
> standpoint, albeit not harmful. 
> 
>  I can certainly understand “over-specifying” wire size in a 12 volt circuit, 
> and using larger wire size than is required simply from considering ampacity, 
>  because the voltage drop is a much larger change proportionally, but I 
> really don’t see the benefit from the expense and added installation 
> difficulty of using larger-than-required wire for a 120VAC supply circuit.
> 
> according to the online calculator at 
> http://www.southwire.com/support/voltage-drop-calculator.htm 
> , which takes 
> into account both resistance and reactance of the wire:
> 
> — for a 50 foot run of cable of #6 wire, at 20 amps and 120 volts AC single 
> phase,  the total voltage drop will be 0.884 volt, or 0.74%, for a net 
> voltage at the end of the circuit of 119.1 volts (rounding)
> — for the same run with #12 wire, the total voltage drop will be 3.472 volts, 
> or 2.90 percent, for a net voltage at the end of the circuit of 116.5 volts 
> (rounding). 
> 
> The 3.47 volt drop would be intolerable in a 12 volt circuit providing power 
> directly to amateur radio equipment, but seems to me irrelevant if feeding a 
> competently-designed power supply that reduces the 120 volts AC  supply to 
> some lower voltage of DC supply. Any ham radio power supply that is specified 
> to operate on 120 VAC should be able to operate without difficulty from a 
> 116.5 volts supply.
> 
> So, why go to the extra expense of #6 wire? While it seems to me to be to be 
> harmless to “over-spec” the wire size, it also seems expensive and not 
> necessary either per requirements of Section of 310-15 of the NEC or from a 
> “good operating practices” perspective. 
> 
> Lew N6LEW
> 
> 
> 
>> On Aug 11, 2016, at 11:12 AM, Kevin - K4VD > > wrote:
>> 
>> The added cost of a 3x over-build seems like it would be awfully high. Is
>> this good engineering practice (seriously, I don't know)?
>> 
>> Kevin K4VD
>> 
>> On Thu, Aug 11, 2016 at 12:38 PM, Clay Autery > > wrote:
>> 
>>> How do you define "necessary".
>>> 
>>> Paraphrasing K9YC, Jim  "Big wire is your friend".
>>> 
>>> I agree...
>>> 
>>> I typically use wire at least 2 sizes larger than "required"  Often
>>> the wire size is determined by how big of a wire I can FIT in the
>>> application and how much money I can part with at the time.
>>> 
>>> For instance, on my current power project... I am running 6 AWG x 4 from
>>> the service to the sub-panel @ 50 foot run for a 60 Amp separately
>>> derived service where there'll never be more than about a 20 Amp total
>>> demand...
>>> 
>>> From the sub-panel to the receptacles about 3-1/2 feet below, I am using
>>> 10 AWG  only because that's the largest wire the receptacle
>>> terminals are rated for.
>>> 
>>> From the receptacles to all equipment, minimum 10 AWG...
>>> 
>>> Bigger and shorter the wire, the better...
>>> 
>>> __
>>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>>> MONTAC Enterprises
>>> (318) 518-1389
>>> 
>>> On 8/11/2016 10:43 AM, Ronnie Hull wrote:
 Is 10 gauge necessary?
 
 Sent from my iPhone
>>> __
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft 
>>> 
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm 
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>>> 
>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net 
>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html 
>>> 
>>> Message delivered to ke...@k4vd.net 
>>> 
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] NEC wire size requirements (was: Zip Wire Misrepresentation?)

2016-08-11 Thread Lewis Phelps
I’ve changed the subject line because this discussion has strayed from the 
original question.

At retail rates (e.g. price per foot from lower.com) #6 wire is 89 cents per 
foot, and #12 wire is 8.2 cents per foot;  assuming Clay’s 50 foot run and 3 
wires for a 110 VAC circuit with ground, per NEC, the added cost for wire would 
be $121.20.  

Is it “good engineering practice?”  It seems to be to be OK from an electrical 
standpoint, albeit unnecessary, and unnecessary from a cost standpoint, albeit 
not harmful. 

 I can certainly understand “over-specifying” wire size in a 12 volt circuit, 
and using larger wire size than is required simply from considering ampacity,  
because the voltage drop is a much larger change proportionally, but I really 
don’t see the benefit from the expense and added installation difficulty of 
using larger-than-required wire for a 120VAC supply circuit.

according to the online calculator at 
http://www.southwire.com/support/voltage-drop-calculator.htm, which takes into 
account both resistance and reactance of the wire:

— for a 50 foot run of cable of #6 wire, at 20 amps and 120 volts AC single 
phase,  the total voltage drop will be 0.884 volt, or 0.74%, for a net voltage 
at the end of the circuit of 119.1 volts (rounding)
— for the same run with #12 wire, the total voltage drop will be 3.472 volts, 
or 2.90 percent, for a net voltage at the end of the circuit of 116.5 volts 
(rounding). 

The 3.47 volt drop would be intolerable in a 12 volt circuit providing power 
directly to amateur radio equipment, but seems to me irrelevant if feeding a 
competently-designed power supply that reduces the 120 volts AC  supply to some 
lower voltage of DC supply. Any ham radio power supply that is specified to 
operate on 120 VAC should be able to operate without difficulty from a 116.5 
volts supply.

So, why go to the extra expense of #6 wire? While it seems to me to be to be 
harmless to “over-spec” the wire size, it also seems expensive and not 
necessary either per requirements of Section of 310-15 of the NEC or from a 
“good operating practices” perspective. 

Lew N6LEW



> On Aug 11, 2016, at 11:12 AM, Kevin - K4VD  wrote:
> 
> The added cost of a 3x over-build seems like it would be awfully high. Is
> this good engineering practice (seriously, I don't know)?
> 
> Kevin K4VD
> 
> On Thu, Aug 11, 2016 at 12:38 PM, Clay Autery  > wrote:
> 
>> How do you define "necessary".
>> 
>> Paraphrasing K9YC, Jim  "Big wire is your friend".
>> 
>> I agree...
>> 
>> I typically use wire at least 2 sizes larger than "required"  Often
>> the wire size is determined by how big of a wire I can FIT in the
>> application and how much money I can part with at the time.
>> 
>> For instance, on my current power project... I am running 6 AWG x 4 from
>> the service to the sub-panel @ 50 foot run for a 60 Amp separately
>> derived service where there'll never be more than about a 20 Amp total
>> demand...
>> 
>> From the sub-panel to the receptacles about 3-1/2 feet below, I am using
>> 10 AWG  only because that's the largest wire the receptacle
>> terminals are rated for.
>> 
>> From the receptacles to all equipment, minimum 10 AWG...
>> 
>> Bigger and shorter the wire, the better...
>> 
>> __
>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>> MONTAC Enterprises
>> (318) 518-1389
>> 
>> On 8/11/2016 10:43 AM, Ronnie Hull wrote:
>>> Is 10 gauge necessary?
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>> __
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>> 
> __
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> Message delivered to l...@n6lew.us 
Lew Phelps N6LEW
Pasadena, CA DM04wd
Elecraft K3-10 / KXV144 / XV432
Yaesu FT-7800 
l...@n6lew.us
www.n6lew.us

Generalized Law of Entropy: Sooner or later, everything that has been put 
together will fall apart.





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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

2016-08-11 Thread EricJ
Same with shoe sizes. I've gone from a Size 9 to a Size 11 and nothing I 
have related to shoe size got any bigger.


Eric KE6US


On 8/11/2016 9:17 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:

Bad analogy.  The 2 X 4 inch measurement of a piece of construction lumber
is before planning, or rough cut lumber.  The finished dimension is more
like 3½ X 1½ which hasn't changed.
  However, you might be right on the speaker wire.  Maybe some "secret" wire
formula that is equivalent to 10 gauge. (HI)

Sorta like the ½ gallon of Ice cream that went from 1¾ to 1½ quarts.
Although they don't still CALL it a half gallon.  It just looks the same.

If you paid though pay-pal, just complain.  They side with the buyer 99% of
the time, so you'll more than likely, get you money back.

73, Charlie k3ICH





-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of rick
jones via Elecraft
Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2016 11:21 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

I just bought 20' of what was supposed to be 10GA zip wire from that auction
site. It is clearly marked as "Audiopipe 10 Gauge speaker cable". The
conductor is actually 12GA at best. Is this becoming common practice or is
wire going the way of 2X4 lumber? Suggestions for a reputable source of true
10GA PTFE zip wire for K3 power?
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Re: [Elecraft] 60 metre issue

2016-08-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Alan,

Contact k3supp...@elecraft.com and they should be able to help you with 
it.  There is firmware to change the band edges.  Run it once and it is 
done.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/11/2016 2:07 PM, G4GNX wrote:
Further to my messing about with tuners, I've just discovered that the 
K3 will not allow me to tune an antenna below about 5.350MHz which 
appears to be the band edge in the USA.
In the UK, we're allowed to use 60M down to 5.258MHz, so it would be 
helpful to be able to tune the TX down to that. I've not tried to 
transmit voice or CW, but I assume the K3 won't allow that either?
Does anyone know of a way to persuade the K3 where the UK band edges 
are? I've perused the manuals and can only find a reference to 
eliminating the entire band from the band list.


73,

Alan. G4GNX
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

2016-08-11 Thread Kevin - K4VD
The added cost of a 3x over-build seems like it would be awfully high. Is
this good engineering practice (seriously, I don't know)?

Kevin K4VD

On Thu, Aug 11, 2016 at 12:38 PM, Clay Autery  wrote:

> How do you define "necessary".
>
> Paraphrasing K9YC, Jim  "Big wire is your friend".
>
> I agree...
>
> I typically use wire at least 2 sizes larger than "required"  Often
> the wire size is determined by how big of a wire I can FIT in the
> application and how much money I can part with at the time.
>
> For instance, on my current power project... I am running 6 AWG x 4 from
> the service to the sub-panel @ 50 foot run for a 60 Amp separately
> derived service where there'll never be more than about a 20 Amp total
> demand...
>
> From the sub-panel to the receptacles about 3-1/2 feet below, I am using
> 10 AWG  only because that's the largest wire the receptacle
> terminals are rated for.
>
> From the receptacles to all equipment, minimum 10 AWG...
>
> Bigger and shorter the wire, the better...
>
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
>
> On 8/11/2016 10:43 AM, Ronnie Hull wrote:
> > Is 10 gauge necessary?
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> __
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[Elecraft] 60 metre issue

2016-08-11 Thread G4GNX
Further to my messing about with tuners, I've just discovered that the K3 
will not allow me to tune an antenna below about 5.350MHz which appears to 
be the band edge in the USA.
In the UK, we're allowed to use 60M down to 5.258MHz, so it would be helpful 
to be able to tune the TX down to that. I've not tried to transmit voice or 
CW, but I assume the K3 won't allow that either?
Does anyone know of a way to persuade the K3 where the UK band edges are? 
I've perused the manuals and can only find a reference to eliminating the 
entire band from the band list.


73,

Alan. G4GNX 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3/KAT500

2016-08-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Knut,

The KAT500 in manual mode will recall the tuner settings that were last 
used for a particular band segment and antenna.


Hence the strong suggestion that you "train" the KAT500 - set it to AUTO 
and do a TUNE on each band segment and each antenna that you intend to 
use for that band segment.  You do not have to repeat that unless you 
change antennas.
Once that is accomplished, put the KAT500 into MANUAL - it will not auto 
tune, but it will recall the settings for that band and antenna 
automatically.


If you leave it in AUTO mode, there is a chance that it will detect a 
false high SWR and attempt to tune when you transmit.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/11/2016 12:47 PM, ab2tc wrote:

Hi Don & Alan,

Without the KAT3 present the ATU TUNE button has no effect other than
displaying the "NO ATU" message briefly. This goes for both tap and hold. As
you say, use the TUNE button to generate a medium power (set by "TUN PWR" in
config) carrier. This will cause the KAT500 to recall a stored setting or
tune if necessary if in AUTO mode. It's a little murky to me under what
circumstances it will tune if in MANUAL mode, but it will usually at least
do a recall of  stored setting if it has one.




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Re: [Elecraft] K3/KAT500

2016-08-11 Thread G4GNX

Hi Don and Knut.

Thank you both for your replies, most helpful.

In this particular case the KAT3 is present, which is exactly the same as my 
own K3. The club bought one from a SK club member estate and I bought from 
another. Sad, but life's like that! Anyway, both K3s came with a KAT3 
installed and I purchased the KAT500 as a kit. I believe the club's one came 
with the K3. I will be using a KPA500 soon, but the club uses a Tokyo linear 
which they bought elsewhere. Anyway, what I'm trying to do is to put it all 
together so that it's a single setup, whether the Tokyo's present or not. 
That would mean the the KAT500 would always be used and the linear connected 
as needed.


I think we're probably all in agreement that to initiate a KAT500 tune cycle 
(Auto or Manual) it's necessary to hold the TUNE button and tap it again 
when done. It does not switch the TX off when the tuner gets a good match. 
I'm sure we're all correct and the ATU TUNE only refers to the KAT3. I've 
also been through the owners manual and the Fred Cady book and not found 
anything to the contrary.


I've set TUNE PWR to 20 Watts as suggested and it's interesting to watch the 
power display during tuning, where the SWR comes down and the power goes up 
until it reaches 20W.


It would be a nice facility to have the KAT500 be recognised by the K3 and 
allow a tuning sequence initiated by ATU TUNE and when a match is found and 
stored, the K3 would return automatically to RX.


I wonder if the Elecraft development guys will see this or is there a better 
place to make suggestions?


73,

Alan. G4GNX

-Original Message- 
From: ab2tc

Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2016 5:47 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/KAT500

Hi Don & Alan,

Without the KAT3 present the ATU TUNE button has no effect other than
displaying the "NO ATU" message briefly. This goes for both tap and hold. As
you say, use the TUNE button to generate a medium power (set by "TUN PWR" in
config) carrier. This will cause the KAT500 to recall a stored setting or
tune if necessary if in AUTO mode. It's a little murky to me under what
circumstances it will tune if in MANUAL mode, but it will usually at least
do a recall of  stored setting if it has one.

AB2TC - Knut


Don Wilhelm wrote

Alan,

I am going to guess - the difference may be the result on the KAT3
present in the K3 or not present.

My perusal of the K3 manual indicates that the ATU TUNE button refers to
the KAT3 - I see no exceptions for the KAT500.  I really don't know what
happens if the KAT3 is not present.

So for that K3, you would use TUNE for tuning the KAT500.  In order for
the KAT500 to find a match, set the K3 TUNE PWR menu to 10 watts or more
(20 watts is better).

73,
Don W3FPR 


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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

2016-08-11 Thread Fred Jensen
No Rick, they have developed a new plating process [Cu on Cu] that makes 
12 ga wire perform like 10 ga wire.  Now, if you wanted to use it for 
speaker wire, you would need yet another plating to prevent audio 
distortion and achieve the highest fidelity.  That makes it more expensive.


At least that's what I saw on the Internet and you're not allowed to put 
anything on the Internet that isn't true ...


73,

Fred K6DGW
Sparks NV
Washoe County DM09dn

On 8/11/2016 8:21 AM, rick jones via Elecraft wrote:

I just bought 20' of what was supposed to be 10GA zip wire from that
auction site. It is clearly marked as "Audiopipe 10 Gauge speaker
cable". The conductor is actually 12GA at best. Is this becoming
common practice or is wire going the way of 2X4 lumber?

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 -TX test not sticky

2016-08-11 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
Setting power to zero is a very simple way to set a persistent no-power
state that bridges transceiver on/off, which gives you your work-around. I
would assume that kind of usage is very rare.

Turning off the power just long enough to try out all the macro settings
before jumping into a contest is handled well by TX TEST, without any
sticky attribute, just as it is.

I HAVE myself turned PWR down to zero when putting up an AIM4170 to see the
K3's RX input impedances on different bands and inputs, knowing from
somewhere (intuitively?) that TX TEST would not persist, or I could release
it by accidentally holding a "MODE" press too long. I never expected TX
TEST to persist. For those who currently do NOT expect TX TEST to persist,
converting that to sticky is just going to generate tech support calls.

73, Guy


On Thu, Aug 11, 2016 at 12:48 PM, brian  wrote:

> I guess we can agree to disagree.
>
> It is not as if the K3 doesn't tell you it's in the TX test mode. Pretty
> obvious -- especially if you set it purposely.
>
> It is far less destructive in the TX test mode!
>
> If you also have to turn the power manually to zero, what's the point of
> having a TX test button?
>
> I don't agree that making it sticky would cause any appreciable number of
> additional support issues.  There have been plenty of "support problems"
> related to TX test with it not being sticky.  I'm sure it's on the list at
> Elecraft as an item to check if there is no power output. Interesting that
> the K3 manual doesn't mention TX test mode as a reason for No Power Out.
>
> Also I never thought power down and power up was supposed to "fix"
> conscious user settings deemed "inappropriate"-- whatever inappropriate
> means.
>
> It would be nice to know which settings are not sticky on power up/power
> down.
>
> 73 de Brian/K3KO
>
> On 8/11/2016 15:34 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
>
>>
>> I would not want it to survive power off and restart.  It is too easy
>> to be in TEST mode at the end of the day, shut down and forget it.
>> Then on restarting the next day one spends time trying to figure out
>> why the rig will not transmit ... no thanks!
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> ... Joe, W4TV
>>
>>
>>
>> On 8/11/2016 11:25 AM, brian wrote:
>>
>>> I wonder if this is an oversight or difficult to implement?
>>> The potential $$ it could save are large.
>>>
>>> 73 de Brian/K3KO
>>> On 8/11/2016 15:12 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>>>
 Brian,

 Yes, TX TEST will not survive a power cycle.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 8/11/2016 10:59 AM, brian wrote:

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

2016-08-11 Thread Clay Autery
Guy, I am intimately aware of the code...   I started out with a 40 Amp
breaker at the service to the sub...  I changed it to a 60Amp to "match"
the 6AWG run...  I would never install anything that was not up to code
or use non-UL materials...  And I always have my work double-checked by
a respected master electrician.

My POINT was that for the max 20 Amp demand that will likely ever be
seen from that sub, the 6AWG is much bigger than required...
specifically to reduce voltage drops...

The twisted pairs and conduit are not "required" by code either, but are
there to help keep the power "quiet".

__
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MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 8/11/2016 12:30 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
> If the feed to the sub-panel has 60 amp breakers in the main panel,
> then #6 AWG feed to the sub-panel is required by the NEC code. That
> you estimate at this time you do not ever use more than 20 amps out of
> the sub-panel has no bearing on the ampacity requirement for the
> sub-panel. A subsequent occupant of your property may chose to expand
> use of the sub-panel to the degree implied by the main panel breakers
> for the sub-.panel. The code is intended to protect future occupants
> as well.
>
> 73, Guy K2AV
>
> On Thu, Aug 11, 2016 at 12:38 PM, Clay Autery  > wrote:
>
> How do you define "necessary".
>
> Paraphrasing K9YC, Jim  "Big wire is your friend".
>
> I agree...
>
> I typically use wire at least 2 sizes larger than "required" 
> Often
> the wire size is determined by how big of a wire I can FIT in the
> application and how much money I can part with at the time.
>
> For instance, on my current power project... I am running 6 AWG x
> 4 from
> the service to the sub-panel @ 50 foot run for a 60 Amp separately
> derived service where there'll never be more than about a 20 Amp total
> demand...
>
> From the sub-panel to the receptacles about 3-1/2 feet below, I am
> using
> 10 AWG  only because that's the largest wire the receptacle
> terminals are rated for.
>
> From the receptacles to all equipment, minimum 10 AWG...
>
> Bigger and shorter the wire, the better...
>
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
>
> On 8/11/2016 10:43 AM, Ronnie Hull wrote:
> > Is 10 gauge necessary?
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

2016-08-11 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
If the feed to the sub-panel has 60 amp breakers in the main panel, then #6
AWG feed to the sub-panel is required by the NEC code. That you estimate at
this time you do not ever use more than 20 amps out of the sub-panel has no
bearing on the ampacity requirement for the sub-panel. A subsequent
occupant of your property may chose to expand use of the sub-panel to the
degree implied by the main panel breakers for the sub-.panel. The code is
intended to protect future occupants as well.

73, Guy K2AV

On Thu, Aug 11, 2016 at 12:38 PM, Clay Autery  wrote:

> How do you define "necessary".
>
> Paraphrasing K9YC, Jim  "Big wire is your friend".
>
> I agree...
>
> I typically use wire at least 2 sizes larger than "required"  Often
> the wire size is determined by how big of a wire I can FIT in the
> application and how much money I can part with at the time.
>
> For instance, on my current power project... I am running 6 AWG x 4 from
> the service to the sub-panel @ 50 foot run for a 60 Amp separately
> derived service where there'll never be more than about a 20 Amp total
> demand...
>
> From the sub-panel to the receptacles about 3-1/2 feet below, I am using
> 10 AWG  only because that's the largest wire the receptacle
> terminals are rated for.
>
> From the receptacles to all equipment, minimum 10 AWG...
>
> Bigger and shorter the wire, the better...
>
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
>
> On 8/11/2016 10:43 AM, Ronnie Hull wrote:
> > Is 10 gauge necessary?
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> __
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[Elecraft] Real 2" x 4" Lumber

2016-08-11 Thread Jim Brown
Indeed the finished dimension of lumber HAS changed. Renovating the wood 
frame home I owned in Chicago, built around the turn of the century, 
after the Great Chicago Fire, I found REAL 2" x 4" and 2" x 6" lumber.


I also removed at least 100 ft of gas pipe used for lighting. When first 
wired for electricity, wiring was run through those pipes and light 
fixtures replaced the gas lights. Obviously, they were first 
disconnected from the gas line, which was still used for heat. :)


Another thing that's changed is the sweet corn that we can buy in the 
market -- it's now much sweeter with little real corn taste. As long as 
I've been eating it, corn was always hybridized for taste, but it always 
tasted like corn. What we get now is hybridized and genetically 
engineered stuff that resists the chemicals used to kill weeds.  It  
looks like corn, but tastes like a sugar bowl.  Small farmers used to 
harvest their own seeds to plant next year's crop, and to grow corn that 
tasted the way they and their customers wanted. But when that chemical 
resistant stuff was invented something like 10 years ago, Monsanto, the 
big seed company that invented it, sued those farmers, claiming that 
some of their patented stuff had cross-fertilized those corn plants, and 
within a few years, that phony corn is all we can buy. I used to buy a 
half dozen ears, steam them, and eat them for lunch. I haven't been able 
to do that for years.


73, Jim K9YC

 On Thu,8/11/2016 9:17 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:

Bad analogy.  The 2 X 4 inch measurement of a piece of construction lumber
is before planning, or rough cut lumber.  The finished dimension is more
like 3½ X 1½ which hasn't changed.



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[Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

2016-08-11 Thread rick jones via Elecraft
I'm making up a 20' cord to go from my car battery to any given picnic table 
for portable ops so 10 gauge would probably be appropriate when I want to go 
QRO. Yes someday I'll get a deep cycle and/or solar panel and someday later 
I'll put it all in an RV but for now I just want to go to the park!
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

2016-08-11 Thread Jim Brown
Over the years, I've bought some of the red/black zip cord at hamfests. 
While I have not measured any of it with a micrometer, my strong 
impression has been that it IS smaller than labeled.


More to the point -- zip cord is TERRIBLE cable for loudspeaker wiring 
because it has very poor RF rejection. It has been well known for more 
than 120 years that twisted pair has quite powerful  rejection of all 
interference, from a few Hz to high RF. Think about it -- for the first 
100+ years of telephony, telephone wiring ran EVERYWHERE on the same 
poles as 60 Hz power lines with no interference. Their ONLY measure to 
reject 60 Hz was to have the telephone lines cross over each other every 
few poles along the run. This was enough of a twist when the only 
interference was 60 Hz. Even today, there are huge quantities of 
telephone, intercom, and even audio wiring carried on unshielded twisted 
pair. CAT5/6 carry high data rate signals on opposing pairs without 
interference. At tutorial lectures, I've demonstrated ordinary CAT5 
providing RF rejection as good as shielded twisted pair into the high 
VHF range. And I've solved more than a dozen instances of RFI to home 
entertainment systems simply by replacing glorified zip cord with 
twisted pairs of #12 POC (plain, ordinary copper).


For the same reason, twisted pair is superior for power wiring in our 
stations.


As to resistance -- I use the shortest practical runs of #10 between my 
power source (a big 100Ah LiFePO4 battery) and my two K3s. I do this 
because like most 12V radios, it's cleaner (lower levels of key clicks) 
at higher supply voltages.


73, Jim K9YC

On Thu,8/11/2016 8:21 AM, rick jones via Elecraft wrote:

I just bought 20' of what was supposed to be 10GA zip wire from that auction site. It is 
clearly marked as "Audiopipe 10 Gauge speaker cable". The conductor is actually 
12GA at best. Is this becoming common practice or is wire going the way of 2X4 lumber? 
Suggestions for a reputable source of true 10GA PTFE zip wire for K3 power?



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 -TX test not sticky

2016-08-11 Thread brian

I guess we can agree to disagree.

It is not as if the K3 doesn't tell you it's in the TX test mode. 
Pretty obvious -- especially if you set it purposely.


It is far less destructive in the TX test mode!

If you also have to turn the power manually to zero, what's the point of 
having a TX test button?


I don't agree that making it sticky would cause any appreciable number 
of additional support issues.  There have been plenty of "support 
problems" related to TX test with it not being sticky.  I'm sure it's on 
the list at Elecraft as an item to check if there is no power output. 
Interesting that the K3 manual doesn't mention TX test mode as a reason 
for No Power Out.


Also I never thought power down and power up was supposed to "fix" 
conscious user settings deemed "inappropriate"-- whatever inappropriate 
means.


It would be nice to know which settings are not sticky on power up/power 
down.


73 de Brian/K3KO

On 8/11/2016 15:34 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


I would not want it to survive power off and restart.  It is too easy
to be in TEST mode at the end of the day, shut down and forget it.
Then on restarting the next day one spends time trying to figure out
why the rig will not transmit ... no thanks!

73,

... Joe, W4TV



On 8/11/2016 11:25 AM, brian wrote:

I wonder if this is an oversight or difficult to implement?
The potential $$ it could save are large.

73 de Brian/K3KO
On 8/11/2016 15:12 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Brian,

Yes, TX TEST will not survive a power cycle.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/11/2016 10:59 AM, brian wrote:

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/KAT500

2016-08-11 Thread ab2tc
Hi Don & Alan,

Without the KAT3 present the ATU TUNE button has no effect other than
displaying the "NO ATU" message briefly. This goes for both tap and hold. As
you say, use the TUNE button to generate a medium power (set by "TUN PWR" in
config) carrier. This will cause the KAT500 to recall a stored setting or
tune if necessary if in AUTO mode. It's a little murky to me under what
circumstances it will tune if in MANUAL mode, but it will usually at least
do a recall of  stored setting if it has one.

AB2TC - Knut


Don Wilhelm wrote
> Alan,
> 
> I am going to guess - the difference may be the result on the KAT3 
> present in the K3 or not present.
> 
> My perusal of the K3 manual indicates that the ATU TUNE button refers to 
> the KAT3 - I see no exceptions for the KAT500.  I really don't know what 
> happens if the KAT3 is not present.
> 
> So for that K3, you would use TUNE for tuning the KAT500.  In order for 
> the KAT500 to find a match, set the K3 TUNE PWR menu to 10 watts or more 
> (20 watts is better).
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 8/11/2016 10:27 AM, G4GNX wrote:
>> Probably a few dumb questions but...
>>
>> I’ve been trying to setup our club’s K3/KAT500 combination and it’s not
>> performing as expected. At present, it’s just the K3 and KAT500, no
>> linear involved.
>>
>> I’ve connected the AUX data cable to the K3 and KAT500 and I have a patch
>> cable between K3 ANT1 and KAT500 XCVR connectors. This is the Aux cable
>> supplied by Elecraft.
>>
>> The K3 CONFIG:KAT3 is set to KAT500Y and the KAT500 switches chosen
>> antenna when the K3 band is changed as expected, so I presume that data
>> is being passed correctly between them.
>>
>> However, when the KAT500 is set to AUTO, I can only initiate a tune cycle
>> by holding the TUNE button on the K3. If I tap the ATU TUNE button on the
>> K3, if the KAT3 is shown in BYPASS then nothing happens. If the KAT3 is
>> shown in AUTO then the KAT3 does the tuning, not the KAT500.
>> Also, pressing the TUNE button on the KAT500 only seems to make the AUTO
>> LED blink, although I’m guessing that it’s to indicate that I need to set
>> the K3 to transmit (hold TUNE)?
>>
>> One of our members who has dealt with a lot of Elecraft equipment says
>> that with the KAT500 correctly connected and CONFIG:KAT3 set to KAT500Y,
>> tapping ATU TUNE should put the KAT500 into a tuning cycle, not the KAT3,
>> which he says is a normal function.
>>
>> Am I totally misunderstanding how the system is supposed to work, being
>> misled, or have I missed a CONFIG or setup step?
>>
> 





--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-KAT500-tp7621498p7621517.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

2016-08-11 Thread Clay Autery
How do you define "necessary".

Paraphrasing K9YC, Jim  "Big wire is your friend".

I agree...

I typically use wire at least 2 sizes larger than "required"  Often
the wire size is determined by how big of a wire I can FIT in the
application and how much money I can part with at the time.

For instance, on my current power project... I am running 6 AWG x 4 from
the service to the sub-panel @ 50 foot run for a 60 Amp separately
derived service where there'll never be more than about a 20 Amp total
demand...

>From the sub-panel to the receptacles about 3-1/2 feet below, I am using
10 AWG  only because that's the largest wire the receptacle
terminals are rated for.

>From the receptacles to all equipment, minimum 10 AWG...

Bigger and shorter the wire, the better...

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 8/11/2016 10:43 AM, Ronnie Hull wrote:
> Is 10 gauge necessary?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

2016-08-11 Thread Clay Autery
Well, I don't use "zip wire" for anything anymore...  But if you want a
good selection of wire at reasonable prices, and great quality...

http://wesbellwireandcable.com/index.html

I've bought by the foot and by the spool from these folks.  Tell Matt I
sent you.  :)

I suggest using 10 GA THHN/THWN wire in red and black  then HAND
twist it and terminate it with your Powerpole on one end and the lug
terms or whatever you want on the other end.  Use heatshrink or zip-ties
to keep twists (not necessary for cables with PP on both ends...

BTW, WesBell has heatshrink too...

73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5Gt 
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 8/11/2016 10:21 AM, rick jones via Elecraft wrote:
> I just bought 20' of what was supposed to be 10GA zip wire from that auction 
> site. It is clearly marked as "Audiopipe 10 Gauge speaker cable". The 
> conductor is actually 12GA at best. Is this becoming common practice or is 
> wire going the way of 2X4 lumber? Suggestions for a reputable source of true 
> 10GA PTFE zip wire for K3 power?
> __
>

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

2016-08-11 Thread Dick Dickinson
“Is this becoming common practice or is

wire going the way of 2X4 lumber?”

 

“Bad analogy.  The 2 X 4 inch measurement of a piece of construction lumber

is before planning, or rough cut lumber.  The finished dimension is more

like 3½ X 1½ which hasn't changed.”

 

Not so bad an analogy.  A planed 2 x 4 used to be 3 5/8” x 1 5/8”.  

 

 

73,

Dick – KA5KKT

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

2016-08-11 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
Bad analogy.  The 2 X 4 inch measurement of a piece of construction lumber
is before planning, or rough cut lumber.  The finished dimension is more
like 3½ X 1½ which hasn't changed.
 However, you might be right on the speaker wire.  Maybe some "secret" wire
formula that is equivalent to 10 gauge. (HI)

Sorta like the ½ gallon of Ice cream that went from 1¾ to 1½ quarts. 
Although they don't still CALL it a half gallon.  It just looks the same.

If you paid though pay-pal, just complain.  They side with the buyer 99% of
the time, so you'll more than likely, get you money back.

73, Charlie k3ICH





-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of rick
jones via Elecraft
Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2016 11:21 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

I just bought 20' of what was supposed to be 10GA zip wire from that auction
site. It is clearly marked as "Audiopipe 10 Gauge speaker cable". The
conductor is actually 12GA at best. Is this becoming common practice or is
wire going the way of 2X4 lumber? Suggestions for a reputable source of true
10GA PTFE zip wire for K3 power?
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delivered to pin...@erols.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K3s audio problem

2016-08-11 Thread Sid Frissell
It works!  When I set up for the mic I apparently got those settings tangled up 
with Data Mode too!  Not sure how I did that. Don, W3FPR started me in the 
right direction by noting that Mic-select was mode specific.  Then, more of you 
  guys asked.me why I wasn't using the internal sound card (I had been using it 
for the last two years or so) that made me realize that I had something wrong 
with Mic-select and/or Mic+Line.  In Data mode I set Mic-Select to Line In and 
Mic+Line to Off and all is now back in operation.  As usual, the many "Elmers" 
on this site came through! 
Thanks to all who replied on and off list.
Sid, NZ7M


Sent From Sid Frissell's iPad

> On Aug 10, 2016, at 8:34 PM, Mark E. Musick  wrote:
> 
> Sid,
> Why aren't you using the sound card in the K3S? Then your JT65 and PSK
> software talks to the K3S sound card through the USB cable. Then you do not
> need external sound cards or connections to LINE IN, LINE OUT or the front
> panel MIC jack.
> I operate AFSK RTTY and this is how I have MTTY, N1MM and Writelog set up.
> 
> Mark, WB9CIF
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
> Wilhelm
> Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2016 1:29 AM
> To: Sid Frissell ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3s audio problem
> 
> Sid,
> 
> In that case, you would set the MIC SEL menu to FP.L as you have it, and
> feed the soundcard output to the mic input.
> 
> Note that this has nothing to do with your headset that you use for SSB.
> Use DATA A mode rather than SSB because that data submode sets compression
> to 1-1 and the TX EQ to flat.  That setting is independent of any settings
> you may have for SSB.
> 
> I am just curious why you have not connected the soundcard output to the
> Line In jack on the back of the K3 - it is not only more convenient when
> switching between SSB and data modes, but it offers transformer isolation
> for the soundcard lines.
> 
> In either case, adjust the audio level to produce 4 bars solid with the 5th
> bar flashing on the ALC meter - that is the "no ALC" point for the K3.  Set
> the power desired with the K3 power knob.
> Ignore the "internet" advice to adjust the power using the audio level -
> that does not work with the K3.  Adjust the power level with the power knob.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 8/10/2016 8:37 PM, Sid Frissell wrote:
>> Don and Bill-- I am using the front panel mike jack and Mic-select (Data
> mode) is set FP.L.
>> 
>> Sid, NZ7M
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

2016-08-11 Thread Joe DeVincentis
Depends on the run length and the voltage drop you are willing to tolerate.

10’ of 10 gauge for 13.8 VDC @ 20A has a drop to 13.4V vs a drop to 13.16 for 
12 gauge.

Source: http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html

Joe
KO8V

> On Aug 11, 2016, at 10:43 AM, Ronnie Hull  wrote:
> 
> Is 10 gauge necessary?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Aug 11, 2016, at 10:41 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>> 
>> I would suggest buying from The RF Connection 
>> http://www.therfc.com/zipcord.htm or Powerwerx 
>> https://powerwerx.com/red-black-bonded-zip-cord.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
>>> On 8/11/2016 11:21 AM, rick jones via Elecraft wrote:
>>> I just bought 20' of what was supposed to be 10GA zip wire from that 
>>> auction site. It is clearly marked as "Audiopipe 10 Gauge speaker cable". 
>>> The conductor is actually 12GA at best. Is this becoming common practice or 
>>> is wire going the way of 2X4 lumber? Suggestions for a reputable source of 
>>> true 10GA PTFE zip wire for K3 power?
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

2016-08-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ronnie,

It "all depends"

I use 12 gauge myself, but the runs are less than 6 feet.
For longer power cables, I would use 10 gauge or larger.

#10 is .000999 ohms per foot
#12 is .001588 ohms per foot.

For 12 feet of conductor (yes, you have to count the resistance both 
directions) - at 18 amps current draw, the #10 will produce a .22 volt 
drop while #12 will produce a .34 volt drop.
So take your pick, either increase your power supply voltage to 
compensate or go with the larger wire.



73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/11/2016 11:43 AM, Ronnie Hull wrote:

Is 10 gauge necessary?

Sent from my iPhone




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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

2016-08-11 Thread Ronnie Hull
Is 10 gauge necessary?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 11, 2016, at 10:41 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> I would suggest buying from The RF Connection 
> http://www.therfc.com/zipcord.htm or Powerwerx 
> https://powerwerx.com/red-black-bonded-zip-cord.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 8/11/2016 11:21 AM, rick jones via Elecraft wrote:
>> I just bought 20' of what was supposed to be 10GA zip wire from that auction 
>> site. It is clearly marked as "Audiopipe 10 Gauge speaker cable". The 
>> conductor is actually 12GA at best. Is this becoming common practice or is 
>> wire going the way of 2X4 lumber? Suggestions for a reputable source of true 
>> 10GA PTFE zip wire for K3 power?
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

2016-08-11 Thread Don Wilhelm
I would suggest buying from The RF Connection 
http://www.therfc.com/zipcord.htm or Powerwerx 
https://powerwerx.com/red-black-bonded-zip-cord.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/11/2016 11:21 AM, rick jones via Elecraft wrote:

I just bought 20' of what was supposed to be 10GA zip wire from that auction site. It is 
clearly marked as "Audiopipe 10 Gauge speaker cable". The conductor is actually 
12GA at best. Is this becoming common practice or is wire going the way of 2X4 lumber? 
Suggestions for a reputable source of true 10GA PTFE zip wire for K3 power?



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 -TX test not sticky

2016-08-11 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
Not a chance  :>).  Not an oversight. Deliberate choice.

Turning a rig off/on is supposed to reset everything except configuration
settings and start it over after such things as power spikes, yada, yada.
Having test mode persist across power cycles would create a lot of
confusion. Same kind of angst as having a firmware update hang before
completion.

Test mode is and always has been TEMPORARY. If you want your no power out
to persist, then turn PWR level to zero. That will persist.

g.

On Thu, Aug 11, 2016 at 11:25 AM, brian  wrote:

> I wonder if this is an oversight or difficult to implement?
> The potential $$ it could save are large.
>
> 73 de Brian/K3KO
>
> On 8/11/2016 15:12 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>
>> Brian,
>>
>> Yes, TX TEST will not survive a power cycle.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> On 8/11/2016 10:59 AM, brian wrote:
>>
>>> Recently I was doing something requiring that K3 not transmit power.
>>> TX test was selected.
>>>
>>> I expected that it would retain this setting after shutdown and
>>> subsequent restart.
>>>
>>> It does NOT stick with a K3 S/N 8XXX and FW 5.38.
>>>
>>>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 -TX test not sticky

2016-08-11 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


I would not want it to survive power off and restart.  It is too easy
to be in TEST mode at the end of the day, shut down and forget it.
Then on restarting the next day one spends time trying to figure out
why the rig will not transmit ... no thanks!

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV



On 8/11/2016 11:25 AM, brian wrote:

I wonder if this is an oversight or difficult to implement?
The potential $$ it could save are large.

73 de Brian/K3KO
On 8/11/2016 15:12 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Brian,

Yes, TX TEST will not survive a power cycle.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/11/2016 10:59 AM, brian wrote:

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 -TX test not sticky

2016-08-11 Thread brian

I wonder if this is an oversight or difficult to implement?
The potential $$ it could save are large.

73 de Brian/K3KO
On 8/11/2016 15:12 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Brian,

Yes, TX TEST will not survive a power cycle.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/11/2016 10:59 AM, brian wrote:

Recently I was doing something requiring that K3 not transmit power.
TX test was selected.

I expected that it would retain this setting after shutdown and
subsequent restart.

It does NOT stick with a K3 S/N 8XXX and FW 5.38.




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[Elecraft] [OT] Zip Wire Misrepresentation?

2016-08-11 Thread rick jones via Elecraft
I just bought 20' of what was supposed to be 10GA zip wire from that auction 
site. It is clearly marked as "Audiopipe 10 Gauge speaker cable". The conductor 
is actually 12GA at best. Is this becoming common practice or is wire going the 
way of 2X4 lumber? Suggestions for a reputable source of true 10GA PTFE zip 
wire for K3 power?
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 -TX test not sticky

2016-08-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Brian,

Yes, TX TEST will not survive a power cycle.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/11/2016 10:59 AM, brian wrote:

Recently I was doing something requiring that K3 not transmit power.
TX test was selected.

I expected that it would retain this setting after shutdown and 
subsequent restart.


It does NOT stick with a K3 S/N 8XXX and FW 5.38.



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Re: [Elecraft] K3/KAT500

2016-08-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Alan,

I am going to guess - the difference may be the result on the KAT3 
present in the K3 or not present.


My perusal of the K3 manual indicates that the ATU TUNE button refers to 
the KAT3 - I see no exceptions for the KAT500.  I really don't know what 
happens if the KAT3 is not present.


So for that K3, you would use TUNE for tuning the KAT500.  In order for 
the KAT500 to find a match, set the K3 TUNE PWR menu to 10 watts or more 
(20 watts is better).


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/11/2016 10:27 AM, G4GNX wrote:

Probably a few dumb questions but...

I’ve been trying to setup our club’s K3/KAT500 combination and it’s not 
performing as expected. At present, it’s just the K3 and KAT500, no linear 
involved.

I’ve connected the AUX data cable to the K3 and KAT500 and I have a patch cable 
between K3 ANT1 and KAT500 XCVR connectors. This is the Aux cable supplied by 
Elecraft.

The K3 CONFIG:KAT3 is set to KAT500Y and the KAT500 switches chosen antenna 
when the K3 band is changed as expected, so I presume that data is being passed 
correctly between them.

However, when the KAT500 is set to AUTO, I can only initiate a tune cycle by 
holding the TUNE button on the K3. If I tap the ATU TUNE button on the K3, if 
the KAT3 is shown in BYPASS then nothing happens. If the KAT3 is shown in AUTO 
then the KAT3 does the tuning, not the KAT500.
Also, pressing the TUNE button on the KAT500 only seems to make the AUTO LED 
blink, although I’m guessing that it’s to indicate that I need to set the K3 to 
transmit (hold TUNE)?

One of our members who has dealt with a lot of Elecraft equipment says that 
with the KAT500 correctly connected and CONFIG:KAT3 set to KAT500Y, tapping ATU 
TUNE should put the KAT500 into a tuning cycle, not the KAT3, which he says is 
a normal function.

Am I totally misunderstanding how the system is supposed to work, being misled, 
or have I missed a CONFIG or setup step?



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Re: [Elecraft] Leaded or non-leaded solder

2016-08-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Raymond,

I typically set my soldering station at 750 degF and have not had a 
problem regardless of the board.
If you are soldering temperature sensitive ICs, you may want to lower 
the temperature a bit, but for normal soldering of passive components, 
the higher temperature makes the task quicker.
The board will not be harmed by the higher temperature, and that is true 
for ROHS or non ROHS boards.
Where you have to be careful with temperature on the boards is with 
boards that do not have thru-plated holes where excessive temperature 
can lift PC traces and solder pads.


There is a balance between temperature and soldering time.  If you can 
get the iron on the connection and see the solder flow in 2 to 3 
seconds, little harm will be done, but if you must maintain heat on a 
connection for more than 5 seconds that is when potential damage to the 
board or the component is possible.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/11/2016 10:47 AM, Raymond METZGER wrote:

Hi Don,

Thank you for your mail. I'm happy with your recommended solution. But I
have an additional question : what temperature do you recommend for
soldering a part with leaded solder on a ROHS board ?
I my personal notes, inspired by what I read on the Elecraft Web site when I
built my K2-100 in 2006-2007, I see 600 ° to 650 ° F for soldering and 700 °
F for desoldering. But these temperatures were for leaded solder on non ROHS
parts.

And thank you for your phenomenal reactivity and commitment vis-à-vis the
Elecraft community !
Raymond, F4FNT


The Elecraft boards comply with ROHS. You can use leaded solder.  The

solder used on the Elecraft boards is non-leaded, but leaded solder will mix
with it just fine.  I have used it many times.

The problem with hand soldering with non-lead solder is that it does not

flow well, so I stay away from it for my work.

73, Don W3FPR






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[Elecraft] K3 -TX test not sticky

2016-08-11 Thread brian

Recently I was doing something requiring that K3 not transmit power.
TX test was selected.

I expected that it would retain this setting after shutdown and 
subsequent restart.


It does NOT stick with a K3 S/N 8XXX and FW 5.38.

Is this the way it is supposed to work?

Fortunately we didn't transmit into anything and destroy it.


73 de Brian/K3KO
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Re: [Elecraft] Leaded or non-leaded solder

2016-08-11 Thread Raymond METZGER
Hi Don,

Thank you for your mail. I'm happy with your recommended solution. But I
have an additional question : what temperature do you recommend for
soldering a part with leaded solder on a ROHS board ?
I my personal notes, inspired by what I read on the Elecraft Web site when I
built my K2-100 in 2006-2007, I see 600 ° to 650 ° F for soldering and 700 °
F for desoldering. But these temperatures were for leaded solder on non ROHS
parts.

And thank you for your phenomenal reactivity and commitment vis-à-vis the
Elecraft community !
Raymond, F4FNT

>> The Elecraft boards comply with ROHS. You can use leaded solder.  The
solder used on the Elecraft boards is non-leaded, but leaded solder will mix
with it just fine.  I have used it many times.
>> The problem with hand soldering with non-lead solder is that it does not
flow well, so I stay away from it for my work.
>> 73, Don W3FPR



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[Elecraft] K3/KAT500

2016-08-11 Thread G4GNX
Probably a few dumb questions but...

I’ve been trying to setup our club’s K3/KAT500 combination and it’s not 
performing as expected. At present, it’s just the K3 and KAT500, no linear 
involved.

I’ve connected the AUX data cable to the K3 and KAT500 and I have a patch cable 
between K3 ANT1 and KAT500 XCVR connectors. This is the Aux cable supplied by 
Elecraft.

The K3 CONFIG:KAT3 is set to KAT500Y and the KAT500 switches chosen antenna 
when the K3 band is changed as expected, so I presume that data is being passed 
correctly between them.

However, when the KAT500 is set to AUTO, I can only initiate a tune cycle by 
holding the TUNE button on the K3. If I tap the ATU TUNE button on the K3, if 
the KAT3 is shown in BYPASS then nothing happens. If the KAT3 is shown in AUTO 
then the KAT3 does the tuning, not the KAT500.
Also, pressing the TUNE button on the KAT500 only seems to make the AUTO LED 
blink, although I’m guessing that it’s to indicate that I need to set the K3 to 
transmit (hold TUNE)?

One of our members who has dealt with a lot of Elecraft equipment says that 
with the KAT500 correctly connected and CONFIG:KAT3 set to KAT500Y, tapping ATU 
TUNE should put the KAT500 into a tuning cycle, not the KAT3, which he says is 
a normal function.

Am I totally misunderstanding how the system is supposed to work, being misled, 
or have I missed a CONFIG or setup step?


73,

Alan. G4GNX
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