Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-04 Thread Jerome Sodus
To be on the safe side, wear only cotton clothing; no wool or synthetic
clothes.
Cotton will be least likely to pick-up any charges.
73 Jerry KM3K   KX3 #6088 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2014 8:28 PM
To: John, 9H5G; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

John,

As for the advice about screwdrivers, yes, get yourself a quality, new 
#1 phillips.  I like the ones from Ace Hardware with the blue handles 
(Pro Series), and I like the 8 inch length, just because I learned to 
use that length many, many years ago - pick whatever length you are 
comfortable with,but do buy a quality screwdriver from a reputable 
supplier - a bargain bin screwdriver tip is usually not cut with 
adequate precision.  If you can see shiny spots on the corners of the 
tip, it is not adequate for the task, it will slip and strip your 
screwheads.  My method of judging a phillips tip driver is if it does 
not hold a 3/16 inch phillips head screw when it is held horizontally, 
it is time for that screwdriver to be replaced.

I take issue with the suggestion to use magnetic holders and the insert 
bits.  I prefer not to have any magnetic tools at my electronics 
workbench, they attract stray bits of cutoff component leads and other 
things stick to the tools.  YMMV on that one - take your pick.  I use 
several magnetic holders to great benefit in the woodworking shop, but 
never at the electronics workbench.

As for anti-static, yes take measures - a wrist strap is a minimum, if 
you have an anti-static mat at the workbench, work on that surface, 
especially when handling unmounted boards.  Do NOT work on a completely 
conducting surface such as a bare metal desktop or cookie sheet, or 
aluminum foil or whatever - fully conductive surfaces can also create 
static damage when they contact that fully conductive surface and are a 
safety hazard if there are live power sources anywhere near.  Newspapers 
misted with a spray of water in addition to the wrist strap can be more 
effective than a fully conducting surface.  If you have no other 
alternative, cut open one of the black anti-static bags that the boards 
are packed in, connect it to a 1 megohm resistor with a clip lead, and 
ground the far end of the 1 megohm resistor to the center screw on an AC 
receptacle cover plate (your wrist strap can ground to the same place).

As has been said about the egg cartons, stay away from most plastic 
containers for sorting because plastics and foam stuff attracts a static 
charge.  If you need to sort the hardware into the various sizes, use 
metal tins (Altoids tins?) or paper cups.  If you are adept at spotting 
a screw size and length 'by eye', you can just dump all the hardware 
into a large box and pick the right ones from there.  Those having long 
term experience with woodworking measurements or metalworking will have 
that ability.
Make such judgements based on what you know about your abilities.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/3/2014 3:51 PM, John, 9H5G wrote:
 Gentlemen,

 Thank you for a fantastic list of hints and tips so far!

 As Gary, KI4GGX, pointed out I should have mentioned the options that I
have coming. It's a K3/100 with a KRX3 and a handful of filters. Simple but
very effective, I'm sure.



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-04 Thread Fred Smith
IMHO there is only one Perfect WayDon't buy a kit let Elecraft
build it, burn it in, do setup.

Then I open the box when I get it and in less than 5 min. I'm on the air. Oh
yes I've been studying the manuals both the build one and operating one
(downloaded printed in 3 ring binder with sheet protectors) like every piece
of gear I own.

I did build my K2 and KPA500 that is the reason I like Elecraft the option
to do so, some things I just want them to do they are very reasonable. The
big plus you have more time to operate instead of building.


73,
Fred/N0AZZ
K3 Ser # 6730--KX3 # 5210--K2/100 # 6470-KAT100
P3/SVGA--KAT500--W2
Amps Elecraft KPA500 HF/6m--Alpha's 9500 HF--87A HF--Mirage B-5030-G
300+w--(2) B-5016-G's 165w 2m




-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jerome
Sodus
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2014 8:55 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

To be on the safe side, wear only cotton clothing; no wool or synthetic
clothes.
Cotton will be least likely to pick-up any charges.
73 Jerry KM3K   KX3 #6088 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2014 8:28 PM
To: John, 9H5G; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

John,

As for the advice about screwdrivers, yes, get yourself a quality, new
#1 phillips.  I like the ones from Ace Hardware with the blue handles (Pro
Series), and I like the 8 inch length, just because I learned to use that
length many, many years ago - pick whatever length you are comfortable
with,but do buy a quality screwdriver from a reputable supplier - a bargain
bin screwdriver tip is usually not cut with adequate precision.  If you can
see shiny spots on the corners of the tip, it is not adequate for the task,
it will slip and strip your screwheads.  My method of judging a phillips tip
driver is if it does not hold a 3/16 inch phillips head screw when it is
held horizontally, it is time for that screwdriver to be replaced.

I take issue with the suggestion to use magnetic holders and the insert
bits.  I prefer not to have any magnetic tools at my electronics workbench,
they attract stray bits of cutoff component leads and other things stick to
the tools.  YMMV on that one - take your pick.  I use several magnetic
holders to great benefit in the woodworking shop, but never at the
electronics workbench.

As for anti-static, yes take measures - a wrist strap is a minimum, if you
have an anti-static mat at the workbench, work on that surface, especially
when handling unmounted boards.  Do NOT work on a completely conducting
surface such as a bare metal desktop or cookie sheet, or aluminum foil or
whatever - fully conductive surfaces can also create static damage when they
contact that fully conductive surface and are a safety hazard if there are
live power sources anywhere near.  Newspapers misted with a spray of water
in addition to the wrist strap can be more effective than a fully conducting
surface.  If you have no other alternative, cut open one of the black
anti-static bags that the boards are packed in, connect it to a 1 megohm
resistor with a clip lead, and ground the far end of the 1 megohm resistor
to the center screw on an AC receptacle cover plate (your wrist strap can
ground to the same place).

As has been said about the egg cartons, stay away from most plastic
containers for sorting because plastics and foam stuff attracts a static
charge.  If you need to sort the hardware into the various sizes, use metal
tins (Altoids tins?) or paper cups.  If you are adept at spotting a screw
size and length 'by eye', you can just dump all the hardware into a large
box and pick the right ones from there.  Those having long term experience
with woodworking measurements or metalworking will have that ability.
Make such judgements based on what you know about your abilities.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/3/2014 3:51 PM, John, 9H5G wrote:
 Gentlemen,

 Thank you for a fantastic list of hints and tips so far!

 As Gary, KI4GGX, pointed out I should have mentioned the options that 
 I
have coming. It's a K3/100 with a KRX3 and a handful of filters. Simple but
very effective, I'm sure.



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[Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom (or experience, anyway)

2014-05-04 Thread Dauer, Edward
One other tool I found essential - and I don¹t recall if anyone has
mentioned this yet - is a hand-held magnifying glass with built-in
illumination.

There are at least two kinds of occasions when this could be important.
One is those few places in which the soldered leads on a small board have
to be nibbled down to avoid contact with an overlying metallic part (the
instructions specify these points.)  The glass helps greatly in assuring
that the clearance actually exists.  The other are the more numerous
places in which the boards and other components are connected with
multi-pin connector blocks, at least some of which could be (I think)
connected with sideways displacement, or not fully inserted at all.  I
used the glass to inspect every one of them from every possible angle
before going on.  Once the whole assembly is complete it would be annoying
at best to identify an error like that.

In my experience (loaded K3, KPA500, KAT500, P3 and KX3) the only step I
found really difficult was inserting the K3¹s sub receiver.  Three hands
with fingers 2 mm wide and eight inches long would have helped.  I have
but two, shorter and stubbier than that.  What I found worked best was,
after unsuccessful attempt number five, quit for the night and have a
drink.

Ted, KN1CBR

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom (or experience, anyway)

2014-05-04 Thread WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft
I would agree, but I prefer a bifocal magnifier head band with an external 
light.  I have two, one with an extra magnifying loop..  You definitely need 
some kind of magnifier unless you are very young with great eyesight or have a 
pet hawk or eagle to help.  Seeing eye dogs don't help much as they have great 
hearing which does not help unless you have power on and draw an arc.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
On Sunday, May 4, 2014 10:10 AM, Dauer, Edward eda...@law.du.edu wrote:
 
One other tool I found essential - and I don¹t recall if anyone has
mentioned this yet - is a hand-held magnifying glass with built-in
illumination.

There are at least two kinds of occasions when this could be important.
One is those few places in which the soldered leads on a small board have
to be nibbled down to avoid contact with an overlying metallic part (the
instructions specify these points.)  The glass helps greatly in assuring
that the clearance actually exists.  The other are the more numerous
places in which the boards and other components are connected with
multi-pin connector blocks, at least some of which could be (I think)
connected with sideways displacement, or not fully inserted at all.  I
used the glass to inspect every one of them from every possible angle
before going on.  Once the whole assembly is complete it would be annoying
at best to identify an error like that.

In my experience (loaded K3, KPA500, KAT500, P3 and KX3) the only step I
found really difficult was inserting the K3¹s sub receiver.  Three hands
with fingers 2 mm wide and eight inches long would have helped.  I have
but two, shorter and stubbier than that.  What I found worked best was,
after unsuccessful attempt number five, quit for the night and have a
drink.

Ted, KN1CBR

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom (or experience, anyway)

2014-05-04 Thread Harry Yingst via Elecraft
I picked up a Magnifying Headband years ago when I built my K2.

It has been extremely handy over the years, and practically a necessity when 
building kits.



Items I would say that are good to have in general are:

Patience (don't rush, enjoy the build)
A good set of screwdrivers (Craftsmen).

A quality set of Nippy cutters.

A Magnifying visor (I also have a lighted hand held magnifying glass for 
inspecting surface mount).
Good Lighting.
A good static mat.
A pencil to check of the steps.
Plastic divided boxes to organize the hardware.


I also bring up the PDF file of the manual on my computer to zoom in on the 
photos.



 



 From: WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
To: Dauer, Edward eda...@law.du.edu; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Sunday, May 4, 2014 12:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom (or experience, anyway)
 

I would agree, but I prefer a bifocal magnifier head band with an external 
light.  I have two, one with an extra magnifying loop..  You definitely need 
some kind of magnifier unless you are very young with great eyesight or have a 
pet hawk or eagle to help.  Seeing eye dogs don't help much as they have great 
hearing which does not help unless you have power on and draw an arc.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
On Sunday, May 4, 2014 10:10 AM, Dauer, Edward eda...@law.du.edu wrote:

One other tool I found essential - and I don¹t recall if anyone has
mentioned this yet - is a hand-held magnifying glass with built-in
illumination.

There are at least two kinds of occasions when this could be important.
One is those few places in which the soldered leads on a small board have
to be nibbled down to avoid contact with an overlying metallic part (the
instructions specify these points.)  The glass helps greatly in assuring
that the clearance actually exists.  The other are the more numerous
places in which the boards and other components are connected with
multi-pin connector blocks, at least some of which could be (I think)
connected with sideways displacement, or not fully inserted at all.  I
used the glass to inspect every one of them from every possible angle
before going on.  Once the whole assembly is complete it would be annoying
at best to identify an error like that.

In my experience (loaded K3, KPA500, KAT500, P3 and KX3) the only step I
found really difficult was inserting the K3¹s sub receiver.  Three hands
with fingers 2 mm wide and eight inches long would have helped.  I have
but two, shorter and stubbier than that.  What I found worked best was,
after unsuccessful attempt number five, quit for the night and have a
drink.

Ted, KN1CBR

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-04 Thread Gary K9GS
Elecraft needs to develop a kit-building jumpsuit.  They could use 
static dissipative cloth like we have for our smocks at work.


Maybe have Eric and Wayne's faces silk-screened on the back.

An added option would be a Batman-like utility belt that has a wrist 
strap and the correct screwdrivers.



On 5/4/2014 8:55 AM, Jerome Sodus wrote:

To be on the safe side, wear only cotton clothing; no wool or synthetic
clothes.
Cotton will be least likely to pick-up any charges.
73 Jerry KM3K   KX3 #6088

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2014 8:28 PM
To: John, 9H5G; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

John,

As for the advice about screwdrivers, yes, get yourself a quality, new
#1 phillips.  I like the ones from Ace Hardware with the blue handles
(Pro Series), and I like the 8 inch length, just because I learned to
use that length many, many years ago - pick whatever length you are
comfortable with,but do buy a quality screwdriver from a reputable
supplier - a bargain bin screwdriver tip is usually not cut with
adequate precision.  If you can see shiny spots on the corners of the
tip, it is not adequate for the task, it will slip and strip your
screwheads.  My method of judging a phillips tip driver is if it does
not hold a 3/16 inch phillips head screw when it is held horizontally,
it is time for that screwdriver to be replaced.

I take issue with the suggestion to use magnetic holders and the insert
bits.  I prefer not to have any magnetic tools at my electronics
workbench, they attract stray bits of cutoff component leads and other
things stick to the tools.  YMMV on that one - take your pick.  I use
several magnetic holders to great benefit in the woodworking shop, but
never at the electronics workbench.

As for anti-static, yes take measures - a wrist strap is a minimum, if
you have an anti-static mat at the workbench, work on that surface,
especially when handling unmounted boards.  Do NOT work on a completely
conducting surface such as a bare metal desktop or cookie sheet, or
aluminum foil or whatever - fully conductive surfaces can also create
static damage when they contact that fully conductive surface and are a
safety hazard if there are live power sources anywhere near.  Newspapers
misted with a spray of water in addition to the wrist strap can be more
effective than a fully conducting surface.  If you have no other
alternative, cut open one of the black anti-static bags that the boards
are packed in, connect it to a 1 megohm resistor with a clip lead, and
ground the far end of the 1 megohm resistor to the center screw on an AC
receptacle cover plate (your wrist strap can ground to the same place).

As has been said about the egg cartons, stay away from most plastic
containers for sorting because plastics and foam stuff attracts a static
charge.  If you need to sort the hardware into the various sizes, use
metal tins (Altoids tins?) or paper cups.  If you are adept at spotting
a screw size and length 'by eye', you can just dump all the hardware
into a large box and pick the right ones from there.  Those having long
term experience with woodworking measurements or metalworking will have
that ability.
Make such judgements based on what you know about your abilities.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/3/2014 3:51 PM, John, 9H5G wrote:

Gentlemen,

Thank you for a fantastic list of hints and tips so far!

As Gary, KI4GGX, pointed out I should have mentioned the options that I

have coming. It's a K3/100 with a KRX3 and a handful of filters. Simple but
very effective, I'm sure.



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--


73,

Gary K9GS

Greater Milwaukee DX Association: http://www.gmdxa.org
Society of Midwest Contesters: http://www.w9smc.com
CW Ops #1032   http://www.cwops.org



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[Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread John, 9H5G
The kit is in the mail so I thought it would be a good time to fire off my 
first email to the group and exit from lurk mode with a question.

I've read the K3 kit manual a few times now but I'm certain that there is a lot 
of wisdom out there to be garnered from the collective experience of the group 
so I'm asking if you would take the time to share please?

73 de John, KK4OYJ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Charles Tropp via Elecraft
You read the manual John so you are way ahead. Just take your time and go step 
by step. It might help to have some small tools handy to help with the 
fasteners. You will be fine and I can't begin to describe what a great feeling 
of accomplishment it is to push that power button at the end and have the rig 
come alive! 
73 Charles N2SO. 

Sent from my android device.

-Original Message-
From: John, 9H5G kk4...@gmail.com
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sat, 03 May 2014 5:09 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

The kit is in the mail so I thought it would be a good time to fire off my 
first email to the group and exit from lurk mode with a question.

I've read the K3 kit manual a few times now but I'm certain that there is a lot 
of wisdom out there to be garnered from the collective experience of the group 
so I'm asking if you would take the time to share please?

73 de John, KK4OYJ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Don Wilhelm

John,

Yes, that is easy.  Follow the instructions in the manual in the order 
written.
If you are not adept at determining screw sizes and lengths by eye, 
measure them.

That is all there is to it.
Build the base K3 first, then the KAT3, then the KPA3, followed by the 
KRX3 and the KXV144 if you have those options.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/3/2014 6:07 AM, John, 9H5G wrote:

The kit is in the mail so I thought it would be a good time to fire off my first email 
to the group and exit from lurk mode with a question.

I've read the K3 kit manual a few times now but I'm certain that there is a lot 
of wisdom out there to be garnered from the collective experience of the group 
so I'm asking if you would take the time to share please?

73 de John, KK4OYJ



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Bill Turner

ORIGINAL MESSAGE:  (may be snipped)

On 5/3/2014 3:07 AM, John, 9H5G wrote:

The kit is in the mail so I thought it would be a good time to fire off my first email 
to the group and exit from lurk mode with a question.

I've read the K3 kit manual a few times now but I'm certain that there is a lot 
of wisdom out there to be garnered from the collective experience of the group 
so I'm asking if you would take the time to share please?

73 de John, KK4OYJ


REPLY:

The main thing I would suggest is if you are going to add any options, 
do it now rather than later. In my case, I added the digital voice 
recorder after the unit was built and that was a  big mistake. I had to 
practically disassemble the whole thing to add it. OK, I'm exaggerating, 
but not that much.


The other thing to be careful of is the sequence of assembly if you are 
adding the 100 watt amplifier. The instructions jump from the main 
manual to the amplifier manual and back again and I somehow got lost and 
as a result, skipped a few steps. I eventually figured it out but it was 
confusing. Pay very close attention to the sequence of steps.


If I were writing the manual, I would have two manuals - one for the 10 
watt unit and one for the 100 watt. Having to jump back and forth 
between two different manuals is not good.


One last thing. If you are installing the 100 watt amplifier, you have 
to go into the setup menu and activate it before it will work.


Otherwise it went well. The manuals are superb except for what I noted 
above. Have fun!


73, Bill W6WRT



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Matt Zilmer
Hi John,

I believe you've made one of the better choices of your ham career.
I'm certain you won't look back.

Free advice:
1.  Inventory all the parts in the kit, especially the screws,
washers, nuts.  Be prepared to measure screw lengths with a shop rule.
2. If something seems like it doesn't fit correctly, then you've done
something wrong.  The K3 fits together perfectly; if it doesn't feel
right then you probably have the wrong hardware in place.
3.  Observe and follow the ESD precautions given in the assembly
manual.

There really aren't that many things you can do wrong.  Take your time
and enjoy the build.

I built one of the first kits in 2007 (#24).  Even then, just the
advice I gave above was enough.  All the wrinkles have been ironed out
since then.  You're dealing with a mature kit product now.

Operating the K3 is a learning experience, and if I were you I'd
consult this list as needed.  Elecraft's customer support is first
class and they'll help get you past a bump in the road if needed.

73,
matt W6NIA

On Sat, 3 May 2014 06:07:40 -0400, you wrote:

The kit is in the mail so I thought it would be a good time to fire off my 
first email to the group and exit from lurk mode with a question.

I've read the K3 kit manual a few times now but I'm certain that there is a 
lot of wisdom out there to be garnered from the collective experience of the 
group so I'm asking if you would take the time to share please?

73 de John, KK4OYJ
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--
Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will
spend the first four sharpening the axe. -A. Lincoln
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Phil Wheeler

Congratulations, John!

If you have questions, just ask here; you should 
get answers from those in the know soon enough.


Another resource I like is this searchable 
database of past posts to this reflector: 
http://marc.info/?l=elecraft  There you can search 
by title, author or even based on the body of 
messages.  And it goes back a long time and makes 
for some interesting reading.


Have fun with your build. I'm sure you'll have the 
K3 up and running very soon.


73, Phil w7ox

On 5/3/14, 3:07 AM, John, 9H5G wrote:

The kit is in the mail so I thought it would be a good time to fire off my first email 
to the group and exit from lurk mode with a question.

I've read the K3 kit manual a few times now but I'm certain that there is a lot 
of wisdom out there to be garnered from the collective experience of the group 
so I'm asking if you would take the time to share please?

73 de John, KK4OYJ


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Bill W2BLC
Get a static protection mat and ground yourself - this will protect 
sensitive parts.


Use an egg carton for separation of the hardware.

Read each step twice, then proceed. Don't tighten anything until 
instructed to do so.


Do each step in order - there is a reason for it.

The process took me about fourteen hours - many take considerably less.

It is merely an exercise in assembly - no soldering. Not like a Heath 
Kit, rather more like an Erector Set.


After you scratch the operational surface of the rig, expect a steep 
learning curve - this is not a simple
rig and is capable of meeting nearly everyone's operational desires and 
requirements.


Bill K-Line

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Frank Precissi
Go to home depot (or wherever) and get a new #0 and #1 screwdriver for
assembly.  Last thing you want is a stripped out screw on your 2k dollar
rig because of $5 screwdriver was too big/small.

Frank
KG6EYC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Phil Hystad
I agree with the comment below but I also recommend you buy quality 
screwdrivers -- the best you can find with hardened tips so that the blades
on the philips head driver do not get screwed up which screws up and strips
the screws while you are screwing in the screw [I never realized how funny
and yet fun the word screw is].

73, phil, K7PEH


On May 3, 2014, at 8:21 AM, Frank Precissi vad...@gmail.com wrote:

 Go to home depot (or wherever) and get a new #0 and #1 screwdriver for
 assembly.  Last thing you want is a stripped out screw on your 2k dollar
 rig because of $5 screwdriver was too big/small.
 
 Frank
 KG6EYC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread David Cole
A friend of mine mentioned that the screws used in Icom radios and such
were some special type...  He even bought some special screwdriver for
them...  Something about the heads being slightly different from normal
Phillips head.  Any one know if this is true?
-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Sat, 2014-05-03 at 09:01 -0700, Phil Hystad wrote:
 I agree with the comment below but I also recommend you buy quality 
 screwdrivers -- the best you can find with hardened tips so that the blades
 on the philips head driver do not get screwed up which screws up and strips
 the screws while you are screwing in the screw [I never realized how funny
 and yet fun the word screw is].
 
 73, phil, K7PEH
 
 
 On May 3, 2014, at 8:21 AM, Frank Precissi vad...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  Go to home depot (or wherever) and get a new #0 and #1 screwdriver for
  assembly.  Last thing you want is a stripped out screw on your 2k dollar
  rig because of $5 screwdriver was too big/small.
  
  Frank
  KG6EYC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Walter Underwood
They may be a cross-point head instead of Phillips. Or possibly a JIS B 1012.

Cross-point heads really need a matching screwdriver. As far as I know, you can 
use a cross-point screwdriver for Phillips, but not vice-versa.

More detail here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives#Cross

wunder
K6WRU

On May 3, 2014, at 9:37 AM, David Cole d...@nk7z.net wrote:

 A friend of mine mentioned that the screws used in Icom radios and such
 were some special type...  He even bought some special screwdriver for
 them...  Something about the heads being slightly different from normal
 Phillips head.  Any one know if this is true?
 -- 
 Thanks and 73's,
 For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
 www.nk7z.net
 for MixW support see;
 http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
 for Dopplergram information see:
 http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
 for MM-SSTV see:
 http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info
 
 
 On Sat, 2014-05-03 at 09:01 -0700, Phil Hystad wrote:
 I agree with the comment below but I also recommend you buy quality 
 screwdrivers -- the best you can find with hardened tips so that the blades
 on the philips head driver do not get screwed up which screws up and strips
 the screws while you are screwing in the screw [I never realized how funny
 and yet fun the word screw is].
 
 73, phil, K7PEH
 
 
 On May 3, 2014, at 8:21 AM, Frank Precissi vad...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Go to home depot (or wherever) and get a new #0 and #1 screwdriver for
 assembly.  Last thing you want is a stripped out screw on your 2k dollar
 rig because of $5 screwdriver was too big/small.
 
 Frank
 KG6EYC
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 Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 
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 Message delivered to wun...@wunderwood.org

--
Walter Underwood
wun...@wunderwood.org



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Anthony Scandurra
Yes, it's true.  JPS (Japanese standard) is ever so slightly different 
from the American standard.


73, Tony K4QE

On 5/3/2014 12:37, David Cole wrote:

A friend of mine mentioned that the screws used in Icom radios and such
were some special type...  He even bought some special screwdriver for
them...  Something about the heads being slightly different from normal
Phillips head.  Any one know if this is true?


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Anthony Scandurra

Oops...meant JIS...

On 5/3/2014 12:56, Anthony Scandurra wrote:
Yes, it's true.  JPS (Japanese standard) is ever so slightly different 
from the American standard.


73, Tony K4QE

On 5/3/2014 12:37, David Cole wrote:

A friend of mine mentioned that the screws used in Icom radios and such
were some special type...  He even bought some special screwdriver for
them...  Something about the heads being slightly different from normal
Phillips head.  Any one know if this is true?




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Bill Turner

ORIGINAL MESSAGE:  (may be snipped)

On 5/3/2014 9:01 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:

I agree with the comment below but I also recommend you buy quality
screwdrivers -- the best you can find with hardened tips so that the blades
on the philips head driver do not get screwed up which screws up and strips
the screws while you are screwing in the screw [I never realized how funny
and yet fun the word screw is].

73, phil, K7PEH


REPLY:

One of the best and longest lasting screwdrivers you can get is the 
little tips made for power drivers. They fit into a standard 1/4 inch 
nutdriver and will outlast any regular screwdriver made for use by hand. 
Because they are made for power drivers they are incredibly tough. As a 
bonus, get a 1/4 inch nutdriver that is magnetic and the tips become 
magnetic too.


However, DO NOT be tempted to assemble  your K3 with a power 
screwdriver. Hand tighten only!


Good luck and have fun!

73, Bill W6WRT

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Gary W. Hvizdak
Earlier today Bill (W2BLC) wrote .

Use an egg carton for separation of the hardware.

--- - - - ---

WARNING!  WARNING!  WARNING!

Proper ESD precautions dictate that plastic or foam shouldn't be anywhere
near your ESD safe work area.  Technically, not anywhere near means at
least a foot away although I would suggest at least three, but preferable
six feet away so that it's not within arm's reach.

Therefore, DO NOT USE a plastic or a foam egg carton to sort/organize
hardware!  Only use a recycled paper egg cartoon, although I prefer a mini
muffin tin for this purpose.  In hindsight, a recycled paper egg carton
might be better from an ESD perspective, although a paper carton might
contain acids that can lead to corrosion over time.  (Probably not a concern
for someone who completes their K3 within 24 hours, but I had to set mine
aside for a couple of months mid-build due to health reasons.)

73,
Gary  KI4GGX



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Bill W2BLC
Good point regarding the plastic foam egg cartons. I never even thought 
about them, as all I ever see are the old style paper ones. Must be from 
living in a cave!


Bill K-Line


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft
If you are going to use the power tips a lot as hand drivers, but the magnetic 
handle to hold them, not a regular nut driver.  The difference is that the nut 
driver has a hardened tip and a recess for the bolt, but probably not magnetic. 
 The handle has a longer 1/4 inch recess, the magnet and no recess for the bolt 
which you do not need.  You can use the nut driver in a pinch, but the handle 
is better and they come in different lengths so you can reach things, not so 
important for a K3, but very important for airplanes.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
On Saturday, May 3, 2014 1:16 PM, Bill W2BLC w2...@nycap.rr.com wrote:
 
Good point regarding the plastic foam egg cartons. I never even thought 
about them, as all I ever see are the old style paper ones. Must be from 
living in a cave!

Bill K-Line



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread John, 9H5G
Gentlemen,

Thank you for a fantastic list of hints and tips so far! 

As Gary, KI4GGX, pointed out I should have mentioned the options that I have 
coming. It's a K3/100 with a KRX3 and a handful of filters. Simple but very 
effective, I'm sure.

Keep them coming please- I have a week more to fill while the UPS man pedals 
his way across the country :)

73 de John, KK4OYJ

On 3 May 2014, at 14:36, WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
wrote:

If you are going to use the power tips a lot as hand drivers, but the magnetic 
handle to hold them, not a regular nut driver.  The difference is that the nut 
driver has a hardened tip and a recess for the bolt, but probably not magnetic. 
 The handle has a longer 1/4 inch recess, the magnet and no recess for the bolt 
which you do not need.  You can use the nut driver in a pinch, but the handle 
is better and they come in different lengths so you can reach things, not so 
important for a K3, but very important for airplanes.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
On Saturday, May 3, 2014 1:16 PM, Bill W2BLC w2...@nycap.rr.com wrote:

Good point regarding the plastic foam egg cartons. I never even thought 
about them, as all I ever see are the old style paper ones. Must be from 
living in a cave!

Bill K-Line



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Matt Zilmer
Helping others is one of the main purposes of this list.  If we could
get the UPS guy to move faster, I'm sure we would.

73
matt, W6NIA

On Sat, 3 May 2014 15:51:19 -0400, you wrote:

Gentlemen,

Thank you for a fantastic list of hints and tips so far! 

As Gary, KI4GGX, pointed out I should have mentioned the options that I have 
coming. It's a K3/100 with a KRX3 and a handful of filters. Simple but very 
effective, I'm sure.

Keep them coming please- I have a week more to fill while the UPS man pedals 
his way across the country :)

73 de John, KK4OYJ

On 3 May 2014, at 14:36, WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
wrote:

If you are going to use the power tips a lot as hand drivers, but the magnetic 
handle to hold them, not a regular nut driver.  The difference is that the nut 
driver has a hardened tip and a recess for the bolt, but probably not 
magnetic.  The handle has a longer 1/4 inch recess, the magnet and no recess 
for the bolt which you do not need.  You can use the nut driver in a pinch, 
but the handle is better and they come in different lengths so you can reach 
things, not so important for a K3, but very important for airplanes.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
On Saturday, May 3, 2014 1:16 PM, Bill W2BLC w2...@nycap.rr.com wrote:

Good point regarding the plastic foam egg cartons. I never even thought 
about them, as all I ever see are the old style paper ones. Must be from 
living in a cave!

Bill K-Line



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Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
--
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spend the first four sharpening the axe. -A. Lincoln
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread K8JHR



On 5/3/2014 2:15 PM, Bill W2BLC wrote:
 as all I ever see are the old style paper ones. Must be from
 living in a cave!

--


Maybe, but even a cave man can do it !


 _  Anonymous ___







.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Pfizenmayer
John -  One  other small step for K3 assemblers  that  I felt should be done 
earlier is on page 58 of the K3 assembly manual  KNB3 installation 
procedure


My note to myself was the standoff for the noise blanker should be done 
BEFORE the KPA3 shield step or even earlier - it was a dog for me to get 
that standoff mounted after the KPA3 shield was in place.


73 Hank K7HP



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Gary W. Hvizdak
Sat May 3 19:24:08 EDT 2014 

Hank K7HP writes ...

John -  One  other small step for K3 assemblers  that  I felt should be done
earlier is on page 58 of the K3 assembly manual  KNB3 installation
procedure

My note to myself was the standoff for the noise blanker should be done
BEFORE the KPA3 shield step or even earlier - it was a dog for me to get
that standoff mounted after the KPA3 shield was in place.

--- - - - ---

I thought so at first as well but after studying the situation, realized
that it had to be done in the order specified.  (I don't recall why.)

73,
Gary  KI4GGX
K3 #2724


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Harry Yingst via Elecraft
I had to remove that standoff to get the shield out (and back in)
so I could cut a notch in the shield for the two meter antenna cable





 From: Gary W. Hvizdak gary.hviz...@cfl.rr.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; kk4...@gmail.com 
Sent: Saturday, May 3, 2014 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom
 

Sat May 3 19:24:08 EDT 2014 

Hank K7HP writes ...

John -  One  other small step for K3 assemblers  that  I felt should be done
earlier is on page 58 of the K3 assembly manual  KNB3 installation
procedure

My note to myself was the standoff for the noise blanker should be done
BEFORE the KPA3 shield step or even earlier - it was a dog for me to get
that standoff mounted after the KPA3 shield was in place.

--- - - - ---

I thought so at first as well but after studying the situation, realized
that it had to be done in the order specified.  (I don't recall why.)

73,
Gary  KI4GGX
K3 #2724


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Don Wilhelm

John,

As for the advice about screwdrivers, yes, get yourself a quality, new 
#1 phillips.  I like the ones from Ace Hardware with the blue handles 
(Pro Series), and I like the 8 inch length, just because I learned to 
use that length many, many years ago - pick whatever length you are 
comfortable with,but do buy a quality screwdriver from a reputable 
supplier - a bargain bin screwdriver tip is usually not cut with 
adequate precision.  If you can see shiny spots on the corners of the 
tip, it is not adequate for the task, it will slip and strip your 
screwheads.  My method of judging a phillips tip driver is if it does 
not hold a 3/16 inch phillips head screw when it is held horizontally, 
it is time for that screwdriver to be replaced.


I take issue with the suggestion to use magnetic holders and the insert 
bits.  I prefer not to have any magnetic tools at my electronics 
workbench, they attract stray bits of cutoff component leads and other 
things stick to the tools.  YMMV on that one - take your pick.  I use 
several magnetic holders to great benefit in the woodworking shop, but 
never at the electronics workbench.


As for anti-static, yes take measures - a wrist strap is a minimum, if 
you have an anti-static mat at the workbench, work on that surface, 
especially when handling unmounted boards.  Do NOT work on a completely 
conducting surface such as a bare metal desktop or cookie sheet, or 
aluminum foil or whatever - fully conductive surfaces can also create 
static damage when they contact that fully conductive surface and are a 
safety hazard if there are live power sources anywhere near.  Newspapers 
misted with a spray of water in addition to the wrist strap can be more 
effective than a fully conducting surface.  If you have no other 
alternative, cut open one of the black anti-static bags that the boards 
are packed in, connect it to a 1 megohm resistor with a clip lead, and 
ground the far end of the 1 megohm resistor to the center screw on an AC 
receptacle cover plate (your wrist strap can ground to the same place).


As has been said about the egg cartons, stay away from most plastic 
containers for sorting because plastics and foam stuff attracts a static 
charge.  If you need to sort the hardware into the various sizes, use 
metal tins (Altoids tins?) or paper cups.  If you are adept at spotting 
a screw size and length 'by eye', you can just dump all the hardware 
into a large box and pick the right ones from there.  Those having long 
term experience with woodworking measurements or metalworking will have 
that ability.

Make such judgements based on what you know about your abilities.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/3/2014 3:51 PM, John, 9H5G wrote:

Gentlemen,

Thank you for a fantastic list of hints and tips so far!

As Gary, KI4GGX, pointed out I should have mentioned the options that I have 
coming. It's a K3/100 with a KRX3 and a handful of filters. Simple but very 
effective, I'm sure.




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
There should be no need to cut any notch in the KPA3 shield for the 2 
meter antenna cable if the K144XV instructions are followed.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/3/2014 8:20 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:

I had to remove that standoff to get the shield out (and back in)
so I could cut a notch in the shield for the two meter antenna cable



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread David Cole
Old Heathkit trick. :)
-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Sat, 2014-05-03 at 14:15 -0400, Bill W2BLC wrote:
 Good point regarding the plastic foam egg cartons. I never even thought 
 about them, as all I ever see are the old style paper ones. Must be from 
 living in a cave!
 
 Bill K-Line
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

2014-05-03 Thread Harry Yingst via Elecraft
You are 100% correct

That is why you should not install modules after a very long week

Thank you





 From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Saturday, May 3, 2014 8:35 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom
 

There should be no need to cut any notch in the KPA3 shield for the 2 
meter antenna cable if the K144XV instructions are followed.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 5/3/2014 8:20 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:
 I had to remove that standoff to get the shield out (and back in)
 so I could cut a notch in the shield for the two meter antenna cable


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 kit complete

2014-01-30 Thread Carl Yaffey
I should have mentioned that the kit I completed is a K3. I’m still working on 
configuring it. I’m currently getting an error on power up (KAT3). I have an 
email into support.

Carl Yaffey  K8NU
Banjo, guitar, bass, mandolin, dobro. 
recording studio.
cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com 
614 268 6353, Columbus OH
http://www.carl-yaffey.com
http://www.grassahol.com







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[Elecraft] K3 Kit Complete

2012-04-16 Thread Bill Wiehe
Just completed the final checks on my K3 kit and I have to
say the putting this rig together was both an educational and very rewarding
experience. I highly recommend to anyone thinking about purchasing a K3 
to consider getting the kit. The precision that goes into its manufacture
along with the very detailed assembly manuals makes it easy to complete. The
next kit in line for the ESD assembly mat is the P3 Kit and that will surely be 
followed by the amp and
external tuner at some point. Thanks Elecraft for some exceptional products and 
great support. 
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[Elecraft] K3 Kit Assembly Manual error

2011-08-16 Thread Dennis Moore
I searched the archive and didn't see this listed. I don't have a K3, 
but am interested in the radio so was looking at the assembly steps.

Page 22 of the K3 Kit Assembly Manual. Note on the left side of Figure 24.
Sentence reads Also, on some boards C6 and C6 may not be present.

What should it read?

Dennis NJ6G
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Assembly Manual error

2011-08-16 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
It should read C6 and C5 may not be present. 

The note was added to reassure builders that some design changes to the
KANT3 board left those spaces empty on purpose. 

Good eyes Dennis. That typo has gone unreported for three years.

73,

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dennis Moore
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2011 11:18 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Assembly Manual error

I searched the archive and didn't see this listed. I don't have a K3, 
but am interested in the radio so was looking at the assembly steps.

Page 22 of the K3 Kit Assembly Manual. Note on the left side of Figure 24.
Sentence reads Also, on some boards C6 and C6 may not be present.

What should it read?

Dennis NJ6G
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[Elecraft] K3 Kit Assembly Manual error

2011-08-16 Thread Lu Romero
Hey Dennis:

There is a job waiting for you over at Flex, bud! ;)

-lu-w4lt-
K3 # 3192/P3 # 1301



--

Message: 33
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 23:17:35 -0700
From: Dennis Moore den...@mail4life.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Assembly Manual error
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: 4e4a0b7f.30...@mail4life.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I searched the archive and didn't see this listed. I don't
have a K3, 
but am interested in the radio so was looking at the
assembly steps.

Page 22 of the K3 Kit Assembly Manual. Note on the left side
of Figure 24.
Sentence reads Also, on some boards C6 and C6 may not be
present.

What should it read?

Dennis NJ6G



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[Elecraft] K3: Kit Resistance Value Question

2011-06-06 Thread Joe Word
I am building a new K3 kit and doing resistance checks, the book
states the resistance value on U12 to ground should be more than 500
ohms, mine checks 349 ohms, is this a problem? U13 to ground is 378
ohms, books states should be greater than 125 ohms, so OK.


Joe  N9VX
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Kit Resistance Value Question

2011-06-06 Thread Joe Word
Just heard back from tech support (thought they were closed for the
day), the value is OK.

Joe  N9VX



On Mon, Jun 6, 2011 at 9:22 PM, Joe Word joe.n...@gmail.com wrote:
 I am building a new K3 kit and doing resistance checks, the book
 states the resistance value on U12 to ground should be more than 500
 ohms, mine checks 349 ohms, is this a problem? U13 to ground is 378
 ohms, books states should be greater than 125 ohms, so OK.


 Joe  N9VX

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit #4043 QRV

2010-09-10 Thread Bill W4ZV


Edward R. Cole wrote:
 
 
 I could not find 
 the configuration where one enables/disables mic bias (using Heil 
 HM-10 mic), but adjusting mic gain and compression I finally saw some 
 RF output (TUNE button worked right off). 
 
 

Page 20 of the latest manual under MIC.

73,  Bill

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[Elecraft] K3 Kit Hardware Organizer

2010-03-31 Thread J.A. Wolf, MD, K6JW

After looking at all those different pieces and sizes of hardware, I went to my 
local pharmacy and bought a plastic 4-week pill organizer. I placed some 
low-tack painter's tape (the blue stuff) over the lids and labeled each 
compartment with its contents. The advantage of this was having the lids -- if 
anyone (such as myself!) were to knock the sorter off the bench, nothing would 
spill. It worked great -- much better than the muffin pans or paper cups I've 
used in the past for hardware.
73,
Jeff, K6JW
K3 #3398
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Hardware Organizer

2010-03-31 Thread K6LE
For me, raiding the kitchen and borrowing all the metal cupcake baking trays I 
could find worked great.

Heavy enough to not worry about knocking over,  big enough to get my fingers in 
to and metal so no worries about static.

Rick
K6LE


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit #4043 QRV

2010-03-22 Thread Mike
Ed,

The more you use it, the better it gets. I'm curious about your final 
amp. What/where?

The mic bias info in on p52 of the manual in the Main menu functions 
section, Mic Sel.

I found that downloading the pdf of the user manual and searching in 
that was usually faster than trying to find stuff in the printed manual.

73, Mike NF4L

Edward Cole wrote:
 I received my kit from Elecraft by UPS on Thursday, March 11 (took 
 one week delivery which is normal for UPS-ground to AK).  I waited 
 until Monday to begin assembly so that an anti-static matt could be 
 delivered.  I finished on Thursday evening with approx. 11-hours of 
 actual time spent.  I took my time and read instructions fully before 
 performing each step.  Excellent instructions (and I used to be a 
 tech writer for Hughes Aircraft so have some experience, here).  A 
 step up from Heath kits in my opinion!

 I was very impressed how precisely the hardware alignment was made; 
 no holes needed re-drilling or tweaking of panels to get things to 
 fit.  Even the front panel went together pretty nicely considering 
 the multiple connectors.  Problems?  The aux Rx was dead (no audio) 
 at first then I realized that I had not calibrated the second 
 synth.  I had a PL2 Error which cleared when the second synth. was 
 calib.  Pretty complicated configuration process, which was helped by 
 the sw once I got the USB/RS-232 cable drivers installed (that was a 
 battle for short time on the Dell laptop -Vista).  Not clear start-up 
 procedure: start sw, connect USB, power on radio (that last step 
 allowed the sw to find the com-port assignment).  I could not find 
 the configuration where one enables/disables mic bias (using Heil 
 HM-10 mic), but adjusting mic gain and compression I finally saw some 
 RF output (TUNE button worked right off).  I calibrated the Tx power 
 to be a max of 16w out 80-15m, 8w on 10-6m.  Using Bird-43 100H 
 element probably not too accurate at low levels.  I set mic=30, 
 comp=15 and ALC peaks 5; good on air report on 80m net running only 
 12w!  I have not set either Rx or Tx equalizers, yet.  Speaker audio 
 is a bit harsh sounding but I will use an old National Speaker, 
 eventually.  Headphones sounded good.

 My K3/10 came with the KXV3, KBPF3 and KRX3, 13, 2.8, and 400-Hz on 
 the main board and 13, 2.8-KHz filters in the aux Rx.  My main use 
 will be on 144-eme and 1296-eme using transverters.  I installed the 
 KTCXO3-1 for frequency accuracy at microwaves.  The dual Rx will 
 permit using two 2m transverters for dual-polarity diversity 
 reception with a sw program looking at a 13-KHz bandpass on USB (thus 
 the two 13-KHz filters).  It will take till summer to get this fully 
 installed and functional.

 I am also using the K3 on 500-KHz (WD2XSH/45) to drive a surplus 100w 
 NDB xmtr (non-directional aircraft beacon).  The NDB was xtal 
 controlled so I inserted drive at -6 dBm to move the unit to 495-510 
 KHz.  The NDB is basically a linear amplifier with 46-dB gain.  The 
 -3 dBm K3 output at the XVT Tx output will easily drive the NDB.

 And, of course the K3 will be used on HF and 6m.  I didn't chose the 
 KPA-3 but instead am building a 300w amplifier kit that cost me about 
 $150.  It runs on 28-vdc using two MRF-422 xsistors.  I am curious to 
 try psk-31 on 14.070 with 12w (should be fine with my 3-element 
 beam).  CW memory scripts will be handy for running CW beacons on 500-KHz.

 I purchased an ARR P50VDG preamp (again with a savings over Elecraft 
 model).  It hasn't arrived so haven't tried 6m, yet.

 So, with two days of use  yeah!  Especially liked tuning out QRM 
 with the DSP filters.  The 400-KHz filter is great on CW!

 73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
 ==
   BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
 500-KHz/CW, 144-MHz EME, 1296-MHz EME
 DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@hotmail.com
 == 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit #4076 Arrived Safely

2010-03-21 Thread lstavenhagen

I ordered my K3 yesterday and have been going through the build manual this
weekend. I also for some reason thought there was something you had to
solder, but sure enough it does look completely like a
insert-tab-a-into-slot-b kit. Even the speaker leads appear to already be
soldered and prepared. 

I'm glad I won't have to manufacture connectors tho as I ruin those just
about 100% of the time as is evident on the plugs on my K2 hi hi. And should
be a refreshing change not to have to adjust overly sensitive caps etc..

Still I ordered the 25w dummy load just to give me something to solder hi hi
(and do wattmeter calibrations on the K3 and still need to do on the tuner I
just finished for my K2).

But if the kit is anything like the K2 as far as preperation, thoroughness
of instructions, etc., it ought to be a breeze and it should work first
time. Armed only with my 6th grade education, my K2 worked first time out
and have had no problems since.

73,
LS
W5QD (looking forward to getting on the data modes)
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit #4076 Arrived Safely

2010-03-21 Thread Don Cunningham
Well, you DO get to solder one thing, the Anderson Power Pole ends to the 
power cord, hi.  It is VERY well documented and a pleasure to build.
73,
Don, WB5HAK 

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[Elecraft] K3 Kit #4043 QRV

2010-03-21 Thread Edward Cole
I received my kit from Elecraft by UPS on Thursday, March 11 (took 
one week delivery which is normal for UPS-ground to AK).  I waited 
until Monday to begin assembly so that an anti-static matt could be 
delivered.  I finished on Thursday evening with approx. 11-hours of 
actual time spent.  I took my time and read instructions fully before 
performing each step.  Excellent instructions (and I used to be a 
tech writer for Hughes Aircraft so have some experience, here).  A 
step up from Heath kits in my opinion!

I was very impressed how precisely the hardware alignment was made; 
no holes needed re-drilling or tweaking of panels to get things to 
fit.  Even the front panel went together pretty nicely considering 
the multiple connectors.  Problems?  The aux Rx was dead (no audio) 
at first then I realized that I had not calibrated the second 
synth.  I had a PL2 Error which cleared when the second synth. was 
calib.  Pretty complicated configuration process, which was helped by 
the sw once I got the USB/RS-232 cable drivers installed (that was a 
battle for short time on the Dell laptop -Vista).  Not clear start-up 
procedure: start sw, connect USB, power on radio (that last step 
allowed the sw to find the com-port assignment).  I could not find 
the configuration where one enables/disables mic bias (using Heil 
HM-10 mic), but adjusting mic gain and compression I finally saw some 
RF output (TUNE button worked right off).  I calibrated the Tx power 
to be a max of 16w out 80-15m, 8w on 10-6m.  Using Bird-43 100H 
element probably not too accurate at low levels.  I set mic=30, 
comp=15 and ALC peaks 5; good on air report on 80m net running only 
12w!  I have not set either Rx or Tx equalizers, yet.  Speaker audio 
is a bit harsh sounding but I will use an old National Speaker, 
eventually.  Headphones sounded good.

My K3/10 came with the KXV3, KBPF3 and KRX3, 13, 2.8, and 400-Hz on 
the main board and 13, 2.8-KHz filters in the aux Rx.  My main use 
will be on 144-eme and 1296-eme using transverters.  I installed the 
KTCXO3-1 for frequency accuracy at microwaves.  The dual Rx will 
permit using two 2m transverters for dual-polarity diversity 
reception with a sw program looking at a 13-KHz bandpass on USB (thus 
the two 13-KHz filters).  It will take till summer to get this fully 
installed and functional.

I am also using the K3 on 500-KHz (WD2XSH/45) to drive a surplus 100w 
NDB xmtr (non-directional aircraft beacon).  The NDB was xtal 
controlled so I inserted drive at -6 dBm to move the unit to 495-510 
KHz.  The NDB is basically a linear amplifier with 46-dB gain.  The 
-3 dBm K3 output at the XVT Tx output will easily drive the NDB.

And, of course the K3 will be used on HF and 6m.  I didn't chose the 
KPA-3 but instead am building a 300w amplifier kit that cost me about 
$150.  It runs on 28-vdc using two MRF-422 xsistors.  I am curious to 
try psk-31 on 14.070 with 12w (should be fine with my 3-element 
beam).  CW memory scripts will be handy for running CW beacons on 500-KHz.

I purchased an ARR P50VDG preamp (again with a savings over Elecraft 
model).  It hasn't arrived so haven't tried 6m, yet.

So, with two days of use  yeah!  Especially liked tuning out QRM 
with the DSP filters.  The 400-KHz filter is great on CW!

73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
==
  BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
500-KHz/CW, 144-MHz EME, 1296-MHz EME
DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@hotmail.com
== 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit #4076 Arrived Safely

2010-03-20 Thread Radio Amateur N5GE
On Fri, 19 Mar 2010 15:10:30 -0400, w...@w5ov.com wrote:

[snip]

You get to do that if you order any of the small test kits.  They are
great.


Being a long-time Heathkit guy myself, I think you may find your self
wondering when do I get to solder something.

[snip]

73,

Tom, N5GE

K3 #806 with SUB RX, PR6, 
KRC2 and K144XV
K3 #1055 with PR6 and XV432
W1, 2 W2's and other small kits

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.swotrc.net

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit #4076 Arrived Safely

2010-03-20 Thread Brett Howard
You get to solder something when you install the K144XV...  You shimmy a
single pin connector into a tight spot and then go zip tack ok thats
in  Guess I get to pack up and put the soldering iron away
again :)

I wasn't about to bring the soldering iron out of its storage bin for
one solder joint so I took this opportunity to finish a project I've
been wanting to do...  I made a headphone switch.  Bought a rotary
switch, a few stereo female headphone jacks and a project box from radio
shack.  Now I can switch my paddles between my K1,K3,and K1EL keyer with
the turn of a knob.  I can also switch it to 3 yet unused ports...  The
only knob they had was a double pole 6 throw switch.  So I had to take
advantage of all the throws when I built the box.  

Funny thing was once I was done with that project I came up with another
idea.  I figured I should have a way to switch more fun things with my
K3.  I want to be able to switch my LP-Pan, LP-100A and my P3 (once its
shipping) all with the power switch on the K3.  So anyway I made up
another project box with a single RCA input from the K3 that then
switches a relay to turn on 4 more RCA ports on the top.  I even put a
1.25uH inductor to 1000uF of cap on the input side and then put 1.5uH to
a .1uF cap LC filter to each of the 4 ports.  Cause any project worth
doing is worth over doing! ;)  I figured that if there was any switching
noise or anything in any of the devices I turned on and off with the
radio that the additional RF filtering on the power would keep my LP-Pan
and P3 displays as noise free as possible. 

I think I may end up slapping together a quick opto-coupler into a cable
as I bought a DB-15HD connector and a DB9 so I could make an FSK cable.
I've never done RTTY that way and I think it could be a fun one.  

After that is all done I'll probably have melted a sufficient amount of
solder to have justified bringing the iron out of its bin.  ;)

~Brett

On Fri, 2010-03-19 at 15:10 -0400, w...@w5ov.com wrote:
 Don,
 
 If you start on it tonight, you'll be on the air with it tomorrow afternoon.
 
 I did about 3 hours on a Friday night with mine and I got up early on
 Saturday and had it completed in time for a late lunch.
 
 Being a long-time Heathkit guy myself, I think you may find your self
 wondering when do I get to solder something.
 
 73,
 
 Bob W5OV
 
 
 
  My new K3, #4076, arrived this morning and is inventoried.  I was
  pleasantly
  surprised, it has the new firmware just announced already installed!!!
  Everything looks to be of exceptionally high quality, and I am overjoyed
  at
  the prospect of a kit build after all these years.  My last large endeavor
  was a Heathkit SB303/401 pair with accessories in 1972, so that's a long
  dry
  spell, hi.  Wish me luck and hope to have it on the air in a few
  days!!!
  73,
  Don, WB5HAK
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit #4076 Arrived Safely

2010-03-20 Thread Brett Howard
I just got a comment and so I thought I'd add... Yes I did put in a fuse
on the outputs of the K3 switched power box...

~Brett (KC7OTG)

On Sat, 2010-03-20 at 02:46 -0700, Brett Howard wrote:
 You get to solder something when you install the K144XV...  You shimmy a
 single pin connector into a tight spot and then go zip tack ok thats
 in  Guess I get to pack up and put the soldering iron away
 again :)
 
 I wasn't about to bring the soldering iron out of its storage bin for
 one solder joint so I took this opportunity to finish a project I've
 been wanting to do...  I made a headphone switch.  Bought a rotary
 switch, a few stereo female headphone jacks and a project box from radio
 shack.  Now I can switch my paddles between my K1,K3,and K1EL keyer with
 the turn of a knob.  I can also switch it to 3 yet unused ports...  The
 only knob they had was a double pole 6 throw switch.  So I had to take
 advantage of all the throws when I built the box.  
 
 Funny thing was once I was done with that project I came up with another
 idea.  I figured I should have a way to switch more fun things with my
 K3.  I want to be able to switch my LP-Pan, LP-100A and my P3 (once its
 shipping) all with the power switch on the K3.  So anyway I made up
 another project box with a single RCA input from the K3 that then
 switches a relay to turn on 4 more RCA ports on the top.  I even put a
 1.25uH inductor to 1000uF of cap on the input side and then put 1.5uH to
 a .1uF cap LC filter to each of the 4 ports.  Cause any project worth
 doing is worth over doing! ;)  I figured that if there was any switching
 noise or anything in any of the devices I turned on and off with the
 radio that the additional RF filtering on the power would keep my LP-Pan
 and P3 displays as noise free as possible. 
 
 I think I may end up slapping together a quick opto-coupler into a cable
 as I bought a DB-15HD connector and a DB9 so I could make an FSK cable.
 I've never done RTTY that way and I think it could be a fun one.  
 
 After that is all done I'll probably have melted a sufficient amount of
 solder to have justified bringing the iron out of its bin.  ;)
 
 ~Brett
 
 On Fri, 2010-03-19 at 15:10 -0400, w...@w5ov.com wrote:
  Don,
  
  If you start on it tonight, you'll be on the air with it tomorrow afternoon.
  
  I did about 3 hours on a Friday night with mine and I got up early on
  Saturday and had it completed in time for a late lunch.
  
  Being a long-time Heathkit guy myself, I think you may find your self
  wondering when do I get to solder something.
  
  73,
  
  Bob W5OV
  
  
  
   My new K3, #4076, arrived this morning and is inventoried.  I was
   pleasantly
   surprised, it has the new firmware just announced already installed!!!
   Everything looks to be of exceptionally high quality, and I am overjoyed
   at
   the prospect of a kit build after all these years.  My last large endeavor
   was a Heathkit SB303/401 pair with accessories in 1972, so that's a long
   dry
   spell, hi.  Wish me luck and hope to have it on the air in a few
   days!!!
   73,
   Don, WB5HAK
  
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[Elecraft] K3 Kit #4076 Arrived Safely

2010-03-19 Thread Don Cunningham
My new K3, #4076, arrived this morning and is inventoried.  I was pleasantly 
surprised, it has the new firmware just announced already installed!!! 
Everything looks to be of exceptionally high quality, and I am overjoyed at 
the prospect of a kit build after all these years.  My last large endeavor 
was a Heathkit SB303/401 pair with accessories in 1972, so that's a long dry 
spell, hi.  Wish me luck and hope to have it on the air in a few days!!!
73,
Don, WB5HAK 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit #4076 Arrived Safely

2010-03-19 Thread w5ov
Don,

If you start on it tonight, you'll be on the air with it tomorrow afternoon.

I did about 3 hours on a Friday night with mine and I got up early on
Saturday and had it completed in time for a late lunch.

Being a long-time Heathkit guy myself, I think you may find your self
wondering when do I get to solder something.

73,

Bob W5OV



 My new K3, #4076, arrived this morning and is inventoried.  I was
 pleasantly
 surprised, it has the new firmware just announced already installed!!!
 Everything looks to be of exceptionally high quality, and I am overjoyed
 at
 the prospect of a kit build after all these years.  My last large endeavor
 was a Heathkit SB303/401 pair with accessories in 1972, so that's a long
 dry
 spell, hi.  Wish me luck and hope to have it on the air in a few
 days!!!
 73,
 Don, WB5HAK

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 kit or factory assembled

2010-01-13 Thread JIM DAVIS
On Tue, 12 Jan 2010 13:31:17 -0800 (PST)
  Mike K2MK k...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 A resource for those who are undecided as to whether to build their K3 or
 have it factory assembled would be a viewing of N5NA's 7 minute YouTube
 video.
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfUMZcwtIyw
 
 It's a masterpiece of time lapse photography. And very enjoyable as well.
 
 73,
 Mike K2MK
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Dear Mike,

With our K3 (S/N 2406) my choice was to buy (assembled) was because unlike 
earlier years (40yrs) I
had infinite patience, but with the on-slaught of aging all that patience 
seemed to fly out 
the
proverbial-window!!!

The guys at (Aptos then-2009) did a superb job of getting everything right 
within the radio and
have been ENJOYING it ever since!

KUDOS TO THE CREW @ ELECRAFT!!!

Warmest Regards from a BELIEVER!!!

Jim/nn6ee

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[Elecraft] K3 kit or factory assembled

2010-01-12 Thread Mike K2MK

A resource for those who are undecided as to whether to build their K3 or
have it factory assembled would be a viewing of N5NA's 7 minute YouTube
video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfUMZcwtIyw

It's a masterpiece of time lapse photography. And very enjoyable as well.

73,
Mike K2MK
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit or Factory Built

2009-12-22 Thread Lu Romero
When I started in this Hobby in 1975, I built a HW16/HG10
rig as my first real novice station.  That grew over the
next several years to a HR10/DX60, then a HW101, then the
entire SB-Line (and then I discovered Kenwood: a TS820 at a
contest, and all the Green was gone virtually overnight).  

I have never had much time to homebrew things, so kit
building was as close as I could come.

I did miss the thrill of getting a box of parts and crafting
a radio from them... And Heathkit had been gone for a long
time... The K2 didnt turn me on enough to make me get rid of
my trusty TS850, however.

The K3 did.  

My #3192 was a kit.  Took me three days, but I took pictures
of *EVERYTHING* for a presentation to the Florida Contest
Group.

If you want to see what it took, send me an email direct and
I will send you the PowerPoint with the evolution from a
shipping box to a finished radio.

There is nothing like the feeling you get when you hit the
power button for the first time and the thing lights up and
you hear signals from the speaker.  The beauty of the whole
experience is that the K3 is a real Competition Quality
High Performance radio that came as a bunch of parts.  Yes
you learn lots about the insides and yes, its helpful when
servicing time comes along, but I do this for a living, so
its no biggie to me to open up the rig for servicing.  

The biggest thrill for me is watching it come alive, and the
second best thrill is using it on the bench to make a QSO
with a LY7 right after you finish the
calibration/configuration routines!

#3192 continues my (knock on wood) tradition of having all
the rigs I have assembled, all the way back to that very
first HW17, work at first statup, which is better than I can
say for most of the computers I have assembled from parts.  

-lu-W4LT-



Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 18:20:32 +0100
From: Bob DeHaney bobdeha...@gmx.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Kit or Factory Built
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: 001101ca8261$e74fdd90$b5ef98...@net
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii

I did the kit.

From the practical side, it's nice to know how it goes
together if you have
to add something like the 2 Meters expansion, or add a
filter, or do a mod,
or send a module back to Elecraft.

From the fun side it's nice to see all the bits
disappearing and a K3
growing on the dining table.

You do risk certain looks and comments from the lady of the
house if you
aren't moving along ;-)

Vy 73, Bob DJ0MBC/WU5T


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] kit building or buy ready for use

2009-12-21 Thread GW0ETF

Volker,

It only makes sense to buy factory built if you buy the K3 with all the
possible modules fitted otherwise you will be dis-assembling the radio to
fit other modules at some later date. A design philosophy of the K3 is being
able to buy the basic unit and upgrade as you can afford it or as the
dollar/euro/sterling rate becomes more favourable! Field upgrading is just
an extension of the kit rationale.

I bought #145 as a kit back in July 2007 and had to wait many months for the
second receiver which required a significant refit. Being an early unit I
have fitted several uprades and have had to replace a faulty main dsp board
too; knowing how it all went together in the first place made all this
straightforward and easy to do. 

So if you have the time and don't have visual or physical impairment it's
not a problem at all. There's the extra security of knowing that the
finished unit has been tested in Aptos but even if/when a problem does arise
you will be talked through it step by step and receive board swaps as
necessary in a manner probably unique to Elecraft. My DSP board problem was
a minor one linked to the second rx and was sorted quickly and efficiently
but it did require me to swap out a couple of boards which were sent from
Aptos.

We are after all 'Radio Amateurs' so we shouldn't really have a problem with
screwdrivers and ESD mats, should we??

73,

Stewart Rolfe, GW0ETF


quot;Volker Wächterquot; wrote:
 
 Hello @ all,
 
 I do not know what most of you did.
 As many others, I am also interested in a K3 Trx.
 
 what do you recommend ?
 
 do-it yourself an purchase a kit, or buy it ready for use ?
 
 as far as I know, elecreft points out that a complete ESD equipment is 
 strictly recommended.
 
 what did you do ?
 
 73 de Volker, DD1VW
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] kit building or buy ready for use

2009-12-21 Thread Julian, G4ILO

I'd recommend the kit too, for the reasons others have stated.

The cost of the electrostatic mat, I seem to recall, was about 20 Euro. The
only test equipment you need is a DMM, an accurate power meter and
(optionally but very useful) a calibrated signal generator for doing the S
meter calibration.

The DMM I used was about 10 Euro, and perfectly adequate for this
application.

For the power calibration I used the Elecraft DL1. Though only rated for 20W
it is perfectly capable of taking 50W for a couple of seconds at a time -
long enough to get the voltage reading from which you can calculate the
power. This is probably more accurate than the average ham-grade power
meter.

For the receiver alignment I used the Elecraft XG1. This has now been
replaced by the XG2 which covers 3 bands and is a bit more expensive.

Even if you have to buy all 3 items of test equipment plus the anti-static
mat the cost will still be about half the money you saved buying the kit
version. 

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] kit building or buy ready for use

2009-12-21 Thread DK4XL

Hi Volker,

buy the kit - it is absolutely no problem to build it,
you should of course use an ESD equipment but it's
worth to buy one. Write me a PN and we can discuss
it in german. I built two K3s, it was a lot of fun and
they work 100%.

Martin
DK4XL
K3 #2199


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] kit building or buy ready for use

2009-12-21 Thread Bill W4ZV



Phil Hystad wrote:
 
 I am also planning on getting the K3 and there is only one thing that is
 holding up my order right now and that is trying to figure out when I can
 spend the time to put it together.  But, I am also a little bit wondering
 if
 the cost differential of kit versus factory built is worth the learning
 experience
 when you contrast that with the hassles of potential problems.
 

1.  You've already spent more time reading and writing emails on this list
than the K3 takes to assemble.
2.  Some are using $200 for the cost differential.  For the record it's:

K3/100 - $250
KAT3 - $30
KRX3 - $50

I've built 3 units with few problems and Elecraft support is absolutely
phenomenal if you do have problems.  Building your own unit will give you
confidence to make inevitable update mods.  I've made 10 to #1361 and 7 to
#2183 so both units are completely updated except for the much-discussed DSP
exchange (which I'm still undecided on).

73,  Bill

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] kit building or buy ready for use

2009-12-21 Thread Paul Christensen
Phil,

Building the K3 will likely make future hardware changes easier to implement 
since you will have recognized key circuit board areas and have an 
understanding of the assembly/disassembly process.

Getting in and back out of the K3 is very easy.  By contrast, the 
disassembly of my previously-owned IC-7800 required removal of over a 
half-dozen different screw types with varying lengths.  That created a 
nightmare situation if one of those screws was installed incorrectly.

Paul, W9AC

 I am also planning on getting the K3 and there is only one thing that is
 holding up my order right now and that is trying to figure out when I can
 spend the time to put it together.  But, I am also a little bit wondering
 if the cost differential of kit versus factory built is worth the 
 learning
 experience when you contrast that with the hassles of potential problems. 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] kit building or buy ready for use

2009-12-21 Thread Radio Amateur N5GE
On Mon, 21 Dec 2009 08:45:11 -0800 (PST), Bill W4ZV
btipp...@alum.mit.edu wrote:

Bill is correct about building your own.  Both of my K3's are factory
built #806 and #1055.  #1055 was a trade with a guy who wanted my
Orion II.

If I ever BUY another one I'll build it for the reasons Bill gave.

73,

Tom, N5GE

n...@n5ge.com
K3 #806 with SUB RX, K3 #1055, PR6,
XV144, XV432, KRC2,
W1, 2 W2's and other small kits

1 K144XV on order

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.swotrc.net




Phil Hystad wrote:
 
 I am also planning on getting the K3 and there is only one thing that is
 holding up my order right now and that is trying to figure out when I can
 spend the time to put it together.  But, I am also a little bit wondering
 if
 the cost differential of kit versus factory built is worth the learning
 experience
 when you contrast that with the hassles of potential problems.
 

1.  You've already spent more time reading and writing emails on this list
than the K3 takes to assemble.
2.  Some are using $200 for the cost differential.  For the record it's:

K3/100 - $250
KAT3 - $30
KRX3 - $50

I've built 3 units with few problems and Elecraft support is absolutely
phenomenal if you do have problems.  Building your own unit will give you
confidence to make inevitable update mods.  I've made 10 to #1361 and 7 to
#2183 so both units are completely updated except for the much-discussed DSP
exchange (which I'm still undecided on).

73,  Bill

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[Elecraft] K3 Kit or Factory Built

2009-12-21 Thread Bob DeHaney
I did the kit.

From the practical side, it's nice to know how it goes together if you have
to add something like the 2 Meters expansion, or add a filter, or do a mod,
or send a module back to Elecraft.

From the fun side it's nice to see all the bits disappearing and a K3
growing on the dining table.

You do risk certain looks and comments from the lady of the house if you
aren't moving along ;-)

Vy 73, Bob DJ0MBC/WU5T





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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit or Factory Built

2009-12-21 Thread Merv Schweigert
I would encourage going the kit route if a person has any ability at all. 
Its very simple to build following instructions, and took me about 6 hours.
I was pleased with the fit of parts and panels and how fast the radio
went together.  And as many have said it makes upgrading or changing
boards a lot more friendly if you have seen the insides apart before. 
For my 200 bucks I added a CW filter and transverter card.
Factory built is a real good deal for guys who dont have time or ability,
so both sides come out on top.  Performance is the same either way.
Merv KH7C
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] kit building or buy ready for use

2009-12-21 Thread Phil Hystad
Lots of people have responded to my question and I feel that it is not really 
necessary to drag this out.  I was sort of looking to see if there were more 
people who had problems after building the K3 but due to flaws in individual 
component boards due to the fact that an integrated K3 could not be tested 
prior to shipment as a kit.  This kind of problem was raised by two earlier 
posts (I think around Friday and Saturday) and that is what prompted my 
question.

But, no one came back and mentioned problems like that so I suspect that it is 
not an issue and these other posts were rare events.

Yes, I am 99.9% sure I will buy a kit and not the factory built K3.  But, I was 
always 99.9% sure of ordering the kit version.

phil


On Dec 21, 2009, at 8:56 AM, Paul Christensen wrote:

 Phil,
 
 Building the K3 will likely make future hardware changes easier to implement 
 since you will have recognized key circuit board areas and have an 
 understanding of the assembly/disassembly process.
 
 Getting in and back out of the K3 is very easy.  By contrast, the 
 disassembly of my previously-owned IC-7800 required removal of over a 
 half-dozen different screw types with varying lengths.  That created a 
 nightmare situation if one of those screws was installed incorrectly.
 
 Paul, W9AC
 
 I am also planning on getting the K3 and there is only one thing that is
 holding up my order right now and that is trying to figure out when I can
 spend the time to put it together.  But, I am also a little bit wondering
 if the cost differential of kit versus factory built is worth the 
 learning
 experience when you contrast that with the hassles of potential problems. 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] kit building or buy ready for use

2009-12-21 Thread Larry - K2GN
I always enjoyed building kits and was looking forward to building a K3.
But my plans were altered by health issues and I had to go factory built.
And I found out 3 weeks ago when I tried to install the DVR option that it 
was a god move.
Had real trouble just opening the radio up with 1 1/2 hands.
A mini stroke took away partial use of one hand. I buttoned the radio back 
up.
Now if I could only get my health insurance to cover the cost, I'd ship it 
out to have it done
I hope no more hardware mods come out that I would need, but...  that's 
progress.

Happy Holidays to all.
de K2GN/Larry
K3 - S/N 3278

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[Elecraft] K3 Kit (mag screwdriver)

2009-05-24 Thread The Smiths

Another trick that I've used instead of having magnetic screw drivers is to buy 
a puck of Surf board wax.  Keep that in your tool box. Just push the tip of 
your screw driver into the wax puck then pick up the screw.  One puck should 
last you about 15 years! At $1.50 it's pretty well worth it.

I use the following: 
http://www.sexwaxdealer.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.displayproduct_ID=3ParentCat=1

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building

2009-05-01 Thread Mike Scott
Wayne said Our little 2D fasteners are an integral part of these designs,
holding together PCBs and panels at edges and corners.

Wayne, I have thought about your unique construction technique and am
impressed with the results. When the K3 box arrived a year ago I thought:
Where's the case? Something must be missing.

All of us home builders fret over cases. I know you guys are not in the
parts business but it would be nice if you could offer 2-D fasteners and
blank panels. 

Mike Scott - AE6WA
Tarzana, CA (DM04 / near LA)
NAQCC 3535
K3-100 #508 / KX1  #1311


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building

2009-05-01 Thread wayne burdick
Hi Mike,

 Wayne said
  Our little 2D fasteners are an integral part of these designs,
  holding together PCBs and panels at edges and corners.

 Wayne, I have thought about your unique construction technique and am
 impressed with the results. When the K3 box arrived a year ago I 
 thought:
 Where's the case? Something must be missing.

 All of us home builders fret over cases. I know you guys are not in the
 parts business but it would be nice if you could offer 2-D fasteners 
 and
 blank panels.

I believe we have sold 2D fasteners to experimenters in the past; check 
with sa...@elecraft.com.

We also sell blank project enclosures styled to match the K2 (EC2) and 
K1 (EC1). There are two different height tilt stands for the EC2: ETS15 
(1.5) and ETS2 (2.5). You'll find these on our order page.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building

2009-05-01 Thread Merv Schweigert

 I believe we have sold 2D fasteners to experimenters in the past; check 
 with sa...@elecraft.com.

 We also sell blank project enclosures styled to match the K2 (EC2) and 
 K1 (EC1). There are two different height tilt stands for the EC2: ETS15 
 (1.5) and ETS2 (2.5). You'll find these on our order page.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR


   
Would love to see a K3 size cabinet (parts) with a blank front and rear 
panel,  would like
to enclose a switching power supply,  speaker etc in a matching cabinet. 
Merv KH7C

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building

2009-05-01 Thread John W2XS

I agree.  The EC2 is too small for my anticipated balanced tuner project.

John W2XS

Merv wrote: 
Would love to see a K3 size cabinet (parts) with a blank front and rear
panel.

  

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Noise-Reduction-tp2727716p2754922.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building

2009-05-01 Thread Wes Stewart


The 2D (where did that name come from?) fasteners are handy, but they don't 
maintain much in the way of shielding integrity.

If you want decent shielding then you need continuous contact between panels 
and a lot of screws.

You could always make your own, for example, here's a photo of an amplifier I 
built about 30 years ago that shows what I'm talking about (although for 
*really* tight shielding twice as many screws would be called for):

http://k6mhe.com/n7ws/N7WS_8877_1.jpg

Wes Stewart, N7WS

ps. If you would like to own this, contact me off list.




--- On Fri, 5/1/09, Mike Scott m...@paxsen.com wrote:

 From: Mike Scott m...@paxsen.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Friday, May 1, 2009, 11:34 AM
 Wayne said Our little 2D fasteners are an
 integral part of these designs,
 holding together PCBs and panels at edges and corners.
 
 Wayne, I have thought about your unique construction
 technique and am
 impressed with the results. When the K3 box arrived a year
 ago I thought:
 Where's the case? Something must be missing.
 
 All of us home builders fret over cases. I know you guys
 are not in the
 parts business but it would be nice if you could offer 2-D
 fasteners and
 blank panels. 
 
 Mike Scott - AE6WA



  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building

2009-05-01 Thread Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604
   From: wayne burdick n...@elecraft.com
   Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 11:20:30 -0700

   Hi Mike,

Wayne said
 Our little 2D fasteners are an integral part of these designs,
 holding together PCBs and panels at edges and corners.

   I believe we have sold 2D fasteners to experimenters in the past; check 
   with sa...@elecraft.com.

   We also sell blank project enclosures styled to match the K2 (EC2) and 
   K1 (EC1). There are two different height tilt stands for the EC2: ETS15 
   (1.5) and ETS2 (2.5). You'll find these on our order page.

I bought a few, and then built a box that's the same width and depth
as the K2, but high enough for the Clifton Labs Z90 panadapter.

It's got one piece with two bends in parallel (the front panel), two
pieces with only one bend (bottom and top) and two pieces that are
just flat.  I had to set the shear fence ONCE to get the widths cut.
There's no nothcing necessary either in the sheet metal nor in the
brake.

I think the design shows genius.

73, doug
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building

2009-05-01 Thread Radio Amateur N5GE
On Fri, 1 May 2009 11:20:30 -0700, wayne burdick n...@elecraft.com
wrote:

[snip]

We also sell blank project enclosures styled to match the K2 (EC2) and 
K1 (EC1). There are two different height tilt stands for the EC2: ETS15 
(1.5) and ETS2 (2.5). You'll find these on our order page.

73,
Wayne
N6KR
[snip]

I'd like to see some small enclosures for things like the home brew
in shack end of things like coaxial switching units, Mic switching
assemblies, etc. (4x3x2, 4x6x3, etc.)

Now that I have two k3 XCVR's I'd like to construct some Mic switching
assemblies, etc. 

 For my VHF UHF activities I'd like to have a small enclosure for
switching coaxial relays up on the tower.

Tom, N5GE
K3 #806, K3 #1055
XV144, XV432
W1 and other small kits.
http://www.n5ge.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building

2009-05-01 Thread Don Wilhelm
Tom,

If you want smaller than the K3, the EC1 and EC2 enclosures sound like 
what you may be looking for.  Of course, they are K2 gray color, but a 
bit of spray paint can change them to K3 black (but with a wrinkle texture).

Of course, there is alway the TenTec enclosures if the EC1 and EC2 do 
not fit the bill - and several other enclosures are available from the 
catalog pages of Mouser and DigiKey.

73,
Don W3FPR

Radio Amateur N5GE wrote:
 On Fri, 1 May 2009 11:20:30 -0700, wayne burdick n...@elecraft.com
 wrote:

 [snip]

   
 We also sell blank project enclosures styled to match the K2 (EC2) and 
 K1 (EC1). There are two different height tilt stands for the EC2: ETS15 
 (1.5) and ETS2 (2.5). You'll find these on our order page.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
 [snip]

 I'd like to see some small enclosures for things like the home brew
 in shack end of things like coaxial switching units, Mic switching
 assemblies, etc. (4x3x2, 4x6x3, etc.)

 Now that I have two k3 XCVR's I'd like to construct some Mic switching
 assemblies, etc. 

  For my VHF UHF activities I'd like to have a small enclosure for
 switching coaxial relays up on the tower.

 Tom, N5GE
 K3 #806, K3 #1055
 XV144, XV432
 W1 and other small kits.
 http://www.n5ge.com
   

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building

2009-05-01 Thread Radio Amateur N5GE
On Fri, 01 May 2009 23:29:53 -0400, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
wrote:

Tom,

If you want smaller than the K3, the EC1 and EC2 enclosures sound like 
what you may be looking for.  Of course, they are K2 gray color, but a 
bit of spray paint can change them to K3 black (but with a wrinkle texture).

Of course, there is alway the TenTec enclosures if the EC1 and EC2 do 
not fit the bill - and several other enclosures are available from the 
catalog pages of Mouser and DigiKey.

73,
Don W3FPR

[snip]

Thanks, Don.  I'll take a look at them.

Now to bed. 
Going to Oklahoma in the morning to look at some possible rover sites
for VHF/UHF.

73,

Tom, N5GE
K3 #806, K3 #1055
XV144, XV432
W1 and other small kits.
http://www.n5ge.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building

2009-04-30 Thread Terry
I just started building my K3/100 kit and I have to say.I've been 
ambushed.  I bought the kit mainly to save some money and I wasn't 
really looking for any enjoyment during the building process.  I was 
wrong - it's really fun and rewarding.  The instructions are excellent 
and I'm having a ball. 

73 de Terry KK6T
K3 #2965 (the serial# sticker just went on this morning)
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building

2009-04-30 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
That's the idea! :-)

73 and have fun!

Eric  WA6HHQ
---

Terry wrote:
 I just started building my K3/100 kit and I have to say.I've been 
 ambushed.  I bought the kit mainly to save some money and I wasn't 
 really looking for any enjoyment during the building process.  I was 
 wrong - it's really fun and rewarding.  The instructions are excellent 
 and I'm having a ball. 

 73 de Terry KK6T
 K3 #2965 (the serial# sticker just went on this morning)
   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building

2009-04-30 Thread Terry
Let me ask a question while this thread is still active.  Having the RF 
board act as the structural backbone is unique in my experience.  Is 
this a common method of construction as opposed to a traditional 
chassis?  As I add panels (side, back) to this I'm amazed at how strong 
and rigid the structure seems.

73 de Terry KK6T
K3 #2965

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building

2009-04-30 Thread wayne burdick
Hi Terry,

This was a bit of an experiment when we designed our first product, the 
K2, about 10 years ago. But we've used the same method on many products 
since then, and it works very well, keeping things light yet rigid. Our 
little 2D fasteners are an integral part of these designs, holding 
together PCBs and panels at edges and corners.

The net result is that the K3 weighs only about 8 to 9 pounds, compared 
to 30 to 55 pounds for competing rigs.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Apr 30, 2009, at 12:00 PM, Terry wrote:

 Let me ask a question while this thread is still active.  Having the RF
 board act as the structural backbone is unique in my experience.  Is
 this a common method of construction as opposed to a traditional
 chassis?  As I add panels (side, back) to this I'm amazed at how strong
 and rigid the structure seems.

 73 de Terry KK6T
 K3 #2965


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building

2009-04-30 Thread list1
Hi Terry,
The RF board is an excellent part to start assembly with because it is wide
enough to connect all the panel pieces to.  After all, the purpose of the
case is to protect the innards (RF board included).  So the RF board is used
to initially align the case pieces.  After a while in the building process
the case becomes the principal support for the radio.  So you end up with a
chassis just like with the older type of radios.  You end up with a light,
but strong chassis.  One advantage is that you can always take a side of the
chassis off to access a part of the radio inside.  The K2 is very similar.
Being a structural engineer, I have been always impressed with the Elecraft
radios' structural integrity.

Steve, W2MY

-Original Message-
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building

 Having the RF board act as the structural backbone is unique in my
experience.  I

73 de Terry KK6T
K3 #2965

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Building

2009-04-30 Thread David Wilburn
The K2 was a similar experience for me, from the build perspective.  I 
purchased it to have the best CW rig, and built it to save money.  I 
had much more fun building it than I had expected.

Dave Wilburn
NM4M
K2/100 S/N 5982
K3/100 S/N 766

wayne burdick wrote:
 Hi Terry,
 
 This was a bit of an experiment when we designed our first product, the 
 K2, about 10 years ago. But we've used the same method on many products 
 since then, and it works very well, keeping things light yet rigid. Our 
 little 2D fasteners are an integral part of these designs, holding 
 together PCBs and panels at edges and corners.
 
 The net result is that the K3 weighs only about 8 to 9 pounds, compared 
 to 30 to 55 pounds for competing rigs.
 
 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
 On Apr 30, 2009, at 12:00 PM, Terry wrote:
 
 Let me ask a question while this thread is still active.  Having the RF
 board act as the structural backbone is unique in my experience.  Is
 this a common method of construction as opposed to a traditional
 chassis?  As I add panels (side, back) to this I'm amazed at how strong
 and rigid the structure seems.

 73 de Terry KK6T
 K3 #2965

 
 ---
 
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[Elecraft] K3 Kit - 1/2 nuts on front panel

2009-04-30 Thread Terry
OK - what kind of wrench can be used on the 1/2 front panel nuts (AF, 
RF, etc) to NOT scratch the panel? 

73 de Terry KK6T
K3 #2965


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit - 1/2 nuts on front panel

2009-04-30 Thread David Gilbert

A socket wrench with some cellophane tape across the face of the socket 
(use a razor blade to cut out the inside of the hole).

73,
Dave   AB7E



Terry wrote:
 OK - what kind of wrench can be used on the 1/2 front panel nuts (AF, 
 RF, etc) to NOT scratch the panel? 

 73 de Terry KK6T
 K3 #2965


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit - 1/2 nuts on front panel

2009-04-30 Thread Gary Hinson
 OK - what kind of wrench can be used on the 1/2 front panel 
 nuts (AF, 
 RF, etc) to NOT scratch the panel? 

A metric socket worked OK for me, provided it's deep enough to fit the
wrench into the socket without fouling the pot shaft (sometimes need to just
place the end of the wrench into the socket without pushing it all the way
home, but be careful).  Sorry, I don't recall the size.

Pliers are dangerous but as a last resort you might try protecting the
surrounding area of case with some card and be *extremely* careful while you
tighten the nut.  If you're going to slip, try to make sure to keep
scratches within the area that will be covered by the knobs!

73 GL
Gary  ZL2iFB


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit - 1/2 nuts on front panel

2009-04-30 Thread Rob May

A nut driver or a deep socket with electrical tape on the face to avoid 
scratching the panel.
Rob
NV5E


 Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 17:38:02 -0700
 From: te...@kk6t.com
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Kit - 1/2 nuts on front panel

 OK - what kind of wrench can be used on the 1/2 front panel nuts (AF,
 RF, etc) to NOT scratch the panel?

 73 de Terry KK6T
 K3 #2965


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit - 1/2 nuts on front panel

2009-04-30 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Pliers or an adjustable wrench of the proper size works well. Just engage
the nut without pressing against the front panel. Position the pliers or
wrench at right angles to the panel and grip the nut without pressing
against the paint. You don't need anywhere enough torque to need to position
the tool parallel with the panel. 

If you have one, a suitable socket is FB. You don't need the torque of a
handle, so even a normal, shallow socket is fine twisted by your fingers
(a.k.a. poor man's nut driver). That also allows you to avoid pressing the
socket against the painted panel to avoid scratches much easier than if you
try tightening it with a handle. 

Like every other fastener in the K3, over-tightening is as bad as leaving
the fastener loose. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
OK - what kind of wrench can be used on the 1/2 front panel nuts (AF, 
RF, etc) to NOT scratch the panel? 

73 de Terry KK6T
K3 #2965


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[Elecraft] K3 Kit - foam light blockers

2009-04-30 Thread terry
Are the foam pieces supposed to stick down to the second layer of LCD  
or wedged all the way down to the switch substrate?

73 de Terry KK6T
K3 #2965

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[Elecraft] K3 Kit - 1/2 nuts on front panel

2009-04-30 Thread Ken Kopp
There are nut drivers made by Xcelite (and others) that fit 
these knurled nuts.  There is one model that's adjustable
by means of a sliding collar.  

There is an almost identical nut used on the K2's speaker
jack, but with two slots to add traction.  Xcelite also makes
these. 

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
  elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
  http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit - foam light blockers

2009-04-30 Thread Gary Hinson
 Are the foam pieces supposed to stick down to the second 
 layer of LCD  
 or wedged all the way down to the switch substrate?

I had the same question a couple of weeks back Terry!

Ron told me: 

That step of the assembly procedure says it all: The blockers should be
nearly flush with the front edge of the LCD to block the excess light that
leaks out of each end of the display.   It's no more complicated than that.
Early testing of the K3 showed that enough light leaked out of the ends of
the display that you could see it around the edge of the buttons nearest the
display, especially in dim room light. Wayne added the blockers to stop
that small amount of light leakage. 

73 GL
Gary  ZL2iFB

PS  There is a neat searchable version of this mailing list at Nabble.com.
Try this search for example:
http://n2.nabble.com/forum/Search.jtp?forum=365791local=yquery=light+block
er

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit - foam light blockers

2009-04-30 Thread Don Wilhelm
Terry,

The light blockers should ideally stick to the board.  If that is not 
possible, they should stick to the switch substrate (as close to the 
board as possible.
The purpose is to block the light escaping from the ends of the LCD 
assembly, so if you get them into position at the ends of the LCD in any 
way that makes them stay there, it is correct, and will provide the 
proper function.  Do not push them down too low - the top surface should 
be flush with the top of the LCD.

73,
Don W3FPR

te...@kk6t.com wrote:
 Are the foam pieces supposed to stick down to the second layer of LCD  
 or wedged all the way down to the switch substrate?

 73 de Terry KK6T
 K3 #2965
   

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit slight concern

2009-03-26 Thread Dale Harding K7DNH

John - 

I had the exact same experience - reversed several steps to see if I had done 
something wrong - went back together and same thing occured. It is a tight fit 
- just loosen several of the 2D screws and give it just a bit of a slight nudge 
and SLOWLY tighten screws, each a bit at a time, unitl all are tight again - 
works fine and no smoke!!   ( Whew!! ) hihi...   now if I can just figure out 
how to adjust the oscillator without spending three weeks turning the VFO to 
get to the frequency  posting a query on that in just a minute...


Dale



Probably not a big deal, but in putting together my kit(after 2 months
sitting on my bench)I had some difficulty in mating the bottom of the front
panel and aligning the connectors to the edge of the RF board. After finally
getting that accomplished, the holes at the bottom corners of the front
panel didn't quite line up with the threaded holes in the 2D blocks . The 2D 
blocks are oriented correctly. I had to push against the panel to make the 
holes line up. Loosening the 2D blocks
didn't help and the connectors were seated together with no gaps and
inserted properly. Anyway, as I said no big deal, but was concerned because
everything prior went together so smoothly and I might have put something
together wrong but double checked all my work to make sure I hadn't missed
something. Resistance checks were ok and now I am at the point of applying
power to test for smoke. This is a fun project.

73,
John N1JM 



-
73,

Dale   K7DNH
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Kit-slight-concern-tp2538669p2538760.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit slight concern

2009-03-26 Thread John N1JM

Thanks, Dale. Glad I am not alone, HI!

On Thu, Mar 26, 2009 at 7:31 AM, Dale Harding K7DNH (via Nabble) 
ml-user+195342-848167...@n2.nabble.comml-user%2b195342-848167...@n2.nabble.com
 wrote:

 John -

 I had the exact same experience - reversed several steps to see if I had
 done something wrong - went back together and same thing occured. It is a
 tight fit - just loosen several of the 2D screws and give it just a bit of a
 slight nudge and SLOWLY tighten screws, each a bit at a time, unitl all are
 tight again - works fine and no smoke!!   ( Whew!! ) hihi...   now if I can
 just figure out how to adjust the oscillator without spending three weeks
 turning the VFO to get to the frequency  posting a query on that in just
 a minute...


 Dale


 John N1JM wrote:
 Probably not a big deal, but in putting together my kit(after 2 months
 sitting on my bench)I had some difficulty in mating the bottom of the front

 panel and aligning the connectors to the edge of the RF board. After
 finally
 getting that accomplished, the holes at the bottom corners of the front
 panel didn't quite line up with the threaded holes in the 2D blocks . The
 2D blocks are oriented correctly. I had to push against the panel to make
 the holes line up. Loosening the 2D blocks
 didn't help and the connectors were seated together with no gaps and
 inserted properly. Anyway, as I said no big deal, but was concerned because

 everything prior went together so smoothly and I might have put something
 together wrong but double checked all my work to make sure I hadn't missed
 something. Resistance checks were ok and now I am at the point of applying
 power to test for smoke. This is a fun project.

 73,
 John N1JM

 73,

 Dale   K7DNH


 --
  This email is a reply to your post @
 http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Kit-slight-concern-tp2538669p2538760.html
 You can reply by email or by visting the link above.



-- 
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http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Kit-slight-concern-tp2538669p2539341.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] K3 kit #1244 ERR TXG

2008-11-01 Thread Tony Morgan

Trying to do the transmitter gain alignment (5 watt)
Getting the ERR TXG on all bands.
KPA3 not installed.
Stock 2.7 filter installed only.
All modes set to use this filter on xmit using K3 utility.
Have run synth alignment   ref osc alignment several times.
All tmp cables are in correct locations with good connections.
Latest firmware 2.46 installed.
Looked through archives but no help so far.
Any ideas appreciated.

73,

Tony W7GO
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[Elecraft] K3 kit

2008-08-10 Thread Scott McDowell
Hello
I should be getting my K3/10 kit in a couple of months and woud like to know
what I will need in the way of test equipment to get it aligned and tuned
up?
A digital volt meter is about the extent of my test equipment.
Besides that I'm a numb brained old man that has to ask the xyl what my name
is every morning! It really is almost that bad, should I even be considering
building
a K3?
Thanks
Scott N5SM
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 kit

2008-08-10 Thread Dave Hachadorian
For special equipment, you need a DVM, dummy load, and ESD 
Mat/wrist strap (e.g Radio Shack 276-2370).


The kit is not hard to build. It is mostly just a mechanical 
assembly process and the instructions are good. However, you 
are assuming several risks in building a kit.


-One of the subassemblies may be defective (undetectable in 
subassembly factory testing).


-Something may be missing in the kit, causing a delay.

-You may make an assembly error or cause an ESD problem.

In those cases, there will be much headscratching, gnashing 
of teeth, disassembly/reassembly and you may have to ship 
the radio back for repair. Shipping will cost about fifty 
bucks, with insurance. On the good side, excellent advice 
from the Elecraft tech support team will be rapidly provided 
if you get into a problem.


If I were to order another one (that would be #3 for me), I 
would order it factory-built.  There is nothing like a final 
assembly test to prove that everything is working right.


Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Big Bear Lake, CA



- Original Message - 
From: Scott McDowell [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2008 12:43 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 kit



Hello
I should be getting my K3/10 kit in a couple of months and 
woud like to know
what I will need in the way of test equipment to get it 
aligned and tuned

up?
A digital volt meter is about the extent of my test 
equipment.
Besides that I'm a numb brained old man that has to ask 
the xyl what my name
is every morning! It really is almost that bad, should I 
even be considering

building
a K3?
Thanks
Scott N5SM


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RE: [Elecraft] K3 kit

2008-08-10 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire

Hello
I should be getting my K3/10 kit in a couple of months and woud like to know
what I will need in the way of test equipment to get it aligned and tuned
up? A digital volt meter is about the extent of my test equipment. Besides
that I'm a numb brained old man that has to ask the xyl what my name is
every morning! It really is almost that bad, should I even be considering
building a K3? 

Thanks Scott N5SM 



Absolutely Scott, you can build a K3 kit. Your DMM is the only measurement
gear required. Add to that a 50 ohm 5W (min) dummy load and you're ready to
go in that department. Just follow the step-by-step procedures, and check
off each step as you go. That way you do not need to remember were you left
off ;)

Below is a complete list of the things needed and recommended.

If you don't have a dummy load, the Elecraft DL1 will work perfectly and it
provides the ability to measure your output power (using your DMM for a
readout), but an external RF power meter is *not* required. 

A signal generator is noted as optional. That's used for calibrating your
S-meter, if an exact calibration is important to you. The Elecraft XG1 (40
meter) or XG2 (80/40/20 meter) calibrated signal generator is perfect for
that. It's also fun to use in measuring the sensitivity (Signal-to-Noise
plus Noise ratio) of the receiver in your K3. 

If you need any of those items, you can order them now and use them to keep
yourself busy while waiting. They do require some soldering, so you will
need an soldering iron, but all the parts have leads. You'll see below that
you'll need a suitable power supply with a cable fitted with Anderson an
PowerPole connector. Recognizing that many Hams do not have such a cable
lying around unused, Elecraft includes with the K3 kit a suitable power
cable kit gratis. Attaching the PowerPole connector to the cable does
require a soldering iron unless you have suitable crimping tools and know
how to use them. 

Here's the list for the K3:

1.   #0 and #1 size Phillips screwdrivers. To avoid damaging screws and
nuts, do not use a power screwdriver. Use the screwdriver that best fits the
screw in each step.
 
2.  Soft cloth or other surface to lay cabinet panels on to avoid
scratching. A clean static-dissipating mat is ideal.
 
3.  Pliers or suitable wrenches for tightening 1/4, 3/16 and 1/2
nuts. The 1/2 size is used to tighten nuts on the front panel controls. If
available, a deep socket or nut driver is recommended. Pliers or an ordinary
wrench can be used, but requires care to avoid damaging the front panel
paint.
 
4.  Long nose pliers.
 
5.  Diagonal cutters.
 
6.  Small rule capable of measuring lengths up to 1 (2.5 cm) with an
accuracy of at least 1/16 inch 
(1.6 mm).

7.  Digital Multimeter (DMM) for resistance checks.

8.  RF 50-ohm, 5 W (minimum) dummy load with low VSWR from 160 meters
through 6 meters.
 
9.  Power supply 13.8 VDC nominal (11-15 V) with a cable and Anderson
PowerPoleR connector. A power cable kit is provided with your K3 if you do
not have a suitable cable with the required Anderson PowerPole connector.
The power supply must be capable of providing at least 3 Amperes for a K3/10
and 20 Amperes for a K3/100. (See Specifications in your Owner's manual for
more information on power supply recommendations).
 
The following tools are strongly recommended:

1.  ESD wrist strap.
2.  Static dissipating work mat.
 
Optional Equipment:

1.  RF Power Meter with accurate readout from 1 mW to 5 watts, minimum.
2.  Signal generator with calibrated 50 uV output at 20 or 40 meters. 

In addition, two Allen wrenches, 5/64 (2mm) and .050, are supplied with
your kit. 

Ron AC7AC








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Re: [Elecraft] K3 kit problem

2008-07-13 Thread Brett Howard
My K3 also arrived last Monday and they stated that mine had arrived and
that there were a few in the queue in front of it.  When I called on
Friday they'd stated that mine was on the bench but hadn't gotten worked
on yet.  They expect that it should ship out early this coming week.  I
was told that Elecraft shoots for a 1 week turnaround but sometimes
things get backed up and it can take up to 2 weeks.  Being that one of
their repair technicians is on vacation I think that Elecraft has been
doing VERY admirably keeping up and keeping us on the air as quickly as
they can.

Hopefully this status update provides you with some sense of security
that Elecraft is doing their best to take care of you.

~Brett (KC7OTG)

On Sat, 2008-07-12 at 22:58 -0700, WILLIS COOKE wrote:
 I had the same experience with 1025 except that when I
 went back to the VCO CAL stage I got a error. 
 Attempts to cure the problem working with Elecraft
 were not successful and I returned the transceiver to
 Elecraft.  They have had it since last Monday and I
 have not heard anything yet.  I don't know if they are
 having difficulty or if they have a cue and have not
 worked on it yet.  I hope to hear something soon.
 
 Cookie, K5EWJ
 
 --- Dave Hachadorian [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Just finished building K3 sn 1176. When I went to do
  the 
  reference oscillator calibration by zero-beating
  with WWV, I 
  found that the receiver is deaf. Even with a large
  antenna 
  connected, there is no increase in background noise,
  and no 
  signals can be heard.
  
  When I turned the K3 off and then on again, it came
  up with 
  ERR IO1. Scary stuff. Any suggestions?
  
  Thanks.
  
  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 kit problem

2008-07-13 Thread WILLIS COOKE
I sent mine to Aptos per the instruction that I
received even though Gary was the one who tried to
help me on the internet.  I did receive information
that mine had arrived Monday.  I hope to hear
something next week.  I assume that #106 was an error
as #106 should have shipped last year sometime.  They
are pretty busy, so I suppose a cue for repair is not
unreasonable, but I am anxious about it none the less.

Cookie, K5EWJ

--- Mike Penkas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hi Cookie,
 My #106 developed the VCO err problem also.  After
 working with Gary for a 
 week, getting a new KSYN3 board and all-  still no
 fix.  I mailed it to Gary 
 on the 26th of June and it sat in a UPS warehouse
 til Thursday when he got 
 back from vacation.  I am starting to wonder how
 many of us are waiting for 
 repairs right now.  I think most of us don't mention
 it on the reflector.
 Wayne called me on the 26th and wanted me to send
 the radio directly to him 
 to work on it but I had just got home from the UPS
 store and already mailed 
 it to AZ per Elecrafts RSA instructions.
  Mike WA8EBM
 - Original Message - 
 From: WILLIS COOKE [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Dave Hachadorian [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft
 Reflector 
 elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 1:58 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 kit problem
 
 
 I had the same experience with 1025 except that
 when I
  went back to the VCO CAL stage I got a error.
  Attempts to cure the problem working with Elecraft
  were not successful and I returned the transceiver
 to
  Elecraft.  They have had it since last Monday and
 I
  have not heard anything yet.  I don't know if they
 are
  having difficulty or if they have a cue and have
 not
  worked on it yet.  I hope to hear something soon.
 
  Cookie, K5EWJ
 
  --- Dave Hachadorian [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Just finished building K3 sn 1176. When I went to
 do
  the
  reference oscillator calibration by zero-beating
  with WWV, I
  found that the receiver is deaf. Even with a
 large
  antenna
  connected, there is no increase in background
 noise,
  and no
  signals can be heard.
 
  When I turned the K3 off and then on again, it
 came
  up with
  ERR IO1. Scary stuff. Any suggestions?
 
  Thanks.
 
 
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Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
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[Elecraft] K3 kit problem

2008-07-12 Thread Dave Hachadorian
Just finished building K3 sn 1176. When I went to do the 
reference oscillator calibration by zero-beating with WWV, I 
found that the receiver is deaf. Even with a large antenna 
connected, there is no increase in background noise, and no 
signals can be heard.


When I turned the K3 off and then on again, it came up with 
ERR IO1. Scary stuff. Any suggestions?


Thanks.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 kit problem

2008-07-12 Thread Chad WE9V
According to the manual:
MISO line stuck low (asserted)

* De-install option modules one at a time.
If no failing option module can be found,
there may be a problem on the RF board.

Chad WE9V

On Sat, Jul 12, 2008 at 2:19 PM, Dave Hachadorian [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Just finished building K3 sn 1176. When I went to do the reference
 oscillator calibration by zero-beating with WWV, I found that the receiver
 is deaf. Even with a large antenna connected, there is no increase in
 background noise, and no signals can be heard.

 When I turned the K3 off and then on again, it came up with ERR IO1. Scary
 stuff. Any suggestions?

 Thanks.


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 You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
 Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
 http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
 Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
 Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com

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