Re: [h-cost] Who's still here?
I'm still around, though I've been neglecting my email for a while. --- Joan Jurancich On 12/17/2015 03:39 PM, franchesca.ha...@gmail.com wrote: > Still here. :) > > Franchesca > > -Original Message- > From: "Deb Salisbury, Mantua-Maker" <d...@mantua-maker.com> > Sent: 12/17/2015 1:37 PM > To: "h-cost...@indra.com" <h-cost...@indra.com> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Whos still here? > > Im here. :-) Ive been taking time off sewing to write, too. > > Love, love the mouse-proof garment idea! > > Happy sewing, > Deb Salisbury > The Mantua-Maker > Quality Historical Sewing Patterns > www.mantua-maker.com [1] > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume [2] > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume [2] Links: -- [1] http://www.mantua-maker.com [2] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Anyone here?
I'm still here. I do not have a Facebook account. Every now and then I think about setting one up, but have not gotten around to it. --- Joan Jurancich On 01/13/2015 10:39 PM, Patricia Dunham wrote: Yeah, it has been quiet. We don't do Facebook because we're OLD, we do still believe in privacy and don't think much of the merchandising of FB info. The weekend just past was Kingdom 12th Night here in AnTir, that kind of thing might also obtain in other parts of the country??? Now let's see if I can get this to mail without creating duplicates, or just refusing to go at all. argh. chimene On Jan 13, 2015, at 3:39 PM, Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com wrote: Hi, I haven't been getting any messages lately, until today-I got only one. Is the list especially quiet? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume [1] Links: -- [1] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Is anyone there?
At 05:01 PM 1/6/2013, you wrote: I got a booklet called Medieval Embroidery that discusses stitches and designs of early medieval embroidery finds, such as Queen Bathilde's shirt. -- Cathy Raymond ca...@thyrsus.com (610) 805-9542 Yes, I'm receiving h-costume. It's just really quiet right now. Where did you get your booklet? It sounds very interesting. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Medieval brides wore red.
At 07:36 PM 11/12/2012, you wrote: I just read the comment that medieval brides wore red in a book that does not attribute any source for the statement but has a bibliography and index. The book makes me itchy because it is such a hybrid of fact and fiction. Anyway, my question is this: is that statement based on fact? If so, what are the sources for this? Was it true for all cultures? Only Italy or ... ? It's an intriguing thing to say, and I would love, please, to learn more about bride colors in the Middle Ages, or, rather, specifically for me the late eleventh and twelfth centuries in southern Italy, if there is such specific information. Thanks, all. Nancy Nancy, What is the title of the book? and the author's name? Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Puts the burden where it belongs!
At 08:26 PM 9/16/2012, you wrote: http://www.freakonomics.com/2012/09/07/modesty-glasses/ http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/08/08/ultra-orthodox-jews-blurry-glasses_n_1757338.html http://www.modestyglasses.com/index.html Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress What in the world are these links about? Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Advice on new sewing machine
At 07:00 PM 9/4/2012, you wrote: Fran, The ruffler foot is great; it can make series of tucks so quickly. I was astounded by the price Bernina asks for it (considering it was invented over 100 years ago) but it's an essential tool for costuming. Imagine how happy your petticoats will be. ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ I have a ruffler for my 1904 Singer treadle machine. And it works very well; you just need to sew at a steady, not-too-fast pace (fairly easy on a treadle). Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] boys 1820s clothing
At 08:51 AM 7/2/2012, you wrote: I got a request for sources for boys ready made 1820s jackets, does anyone have any good sources? Katy -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. You might check James Townsend Sons ( www.jastown.com ). Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Dyed cloth from the Iron Age
At 02:36 PM 6/29/2012, you wrote: Would love a source if you have one. I have someone that has drummed into folks that patterned cloth only goes as far back as the Middle Ages. The Iron Age article will dumbstrike her and further back will blow her away. :) -Original Message- Actually, patterned cloth is much older than the Iron-Age. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net I have two books in my collection, both by Elizabeth Wayland Barber. The first is Prehistoric Textiles: The development of cloth in the Neolithic and Bronze Ages, with special reference to the Aegean; the second is The Mummies of Urumchi. The former has some color pictures of some of the few surviving textiles that have discernable color patterns (very few textiles survive in Europe except for those in the lake bottoms of Switzerland (linen) and the bog textiles in Northern Europe (woolens), both of which have any colors totally masked by the preservation conditions; one exception is in the salt mines). There are some Egyptian textiles preserved by the dryness of the environment that show some colors. In the latter book, again it is extreme dryness that preserves woolen textiles in all their colorful glory. It's interesting that someone has such a jaundiced view of textile history. People have been weaving colorful patterned textiles for at least the past 4,000 years. And, yes, I am an early textile technology geek. 8-) In fact, in late October I am taking a 3-day workshop on spinning and weaving for historic textile reproduction/re-creation. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Dyed cloth from the Iron Age
At 09:12 PM 6/26/2012, you wrote: This from a bog body: http://sciencenordic.com/dyed-clothes-came-fashion-early-iron-age What I find most striking is the twilled plaid. I did a double take because I thought for sure that nobody could be wearing *houndstooth* plaid so early. The rest of the accessory finds are pretty interesting too. -Laura Actually, patterned cloth is much older than the Iron-Age. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] More on hard to find items at grocery stores
At 05:32 PM 5/18/2012, you wrote: Visited our local Wegman's tonight--hadn't been there in a while. They are a tad far away to be my regular go-to store. But I decided to look for tarragon vinegar, superfine sugar, and starch. Found and bought the first two--don't need them right now, but I'll have them for next time, plus I hope that showed them they should keep them in stock! For starch, they have Faultless liquid, but no powdered. I, personally, don't mind spray starch, but thought you all would like to know you can get it there. I find that spray starch works great for period cravats and shirts. When we were in Florida a couple of years ago, I found pump spray starch, not aerosol--like that, too. Ann Wass Just noticed today that my SaveMart has Manischewitz Potato Starch in a 1-lb can for $4.99 (look in the ethnic foods section). There is no reason to prepare your own (unless you like to make lots and lots of potato kugels or latkes); it's very labor-intensive and uses pounds of potatoes to get a cup of starch. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pumpkin bonnet?
At 07:29 PM 3/22/2012, you wrote: Hello 19th century experts! I'm trying to date a bonnet which was donated to the museum where I work -- but 19th century bonnets are not my area of expertise. The donors called this a pumpkin bonnet from early 1800s but I have doubts about that, and the only similar examples I found in a quick internet search were American Civil War era. I'm inclined to go with a circa 1860 date but I'd be delighted to hear from someone who actually knows something! :-) The bonnet is made of brown silk, constructed in concentric rows of thick ruching, with tiny bows at the top center of each row, and a short bavolet. It's softer and more spherical in shape than this one (because the back is less defined and the bavolet is not as heavily gathered): http://darlinganddash.com/bonnetcardboard.html I don't yet have a picture of our bonnet -- but go ahead and make suggestions anyway. No matter what, I'll learn something! Thanks, Suzanne Your description sounds like it might be an ugly from the first half of the 1800s or late 1790s. An ugly was worn to protect the relatively high coiffure and cap when travelling; it could very well look something like a pumpkin. It was usually constructed with caning (or wires). Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Museum of London post on acrobat costume (with gold lace closeup!)
At 11:09 AM 2/8/2012, you wrote: I've always found this blog fascinating, even though it hasn't been a lot of costume content. (Okay, I'm always interested to see what metal belt findings they fish out of the Thames, but that's a small percentage of the posting.) A few weeks ago, they posted about an acrobatic costume, and discussed the history of Victorian acrobat and sideshow performances. Today, this was in my feed reader: http://www.mymuseumoflondon.org.uk/blogs/blog/acrobatic-mystery-continued/ Close ups of metal paillettes! Gold lace closeup so close you can see the bullion and strips of filling metal! And what about that textile? It's like halfway between serge and jersey! Too good not to share. :) -Laura Thank you for sharing, Laura. I found the blog very interesting. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] nankeen substitute
On Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 1:37 PM, Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com wrote: Hello all, I'm planning to make the Past Patterns 1793-1820 Transition Stay. It says that the stay the pattern was taken from was made in nankeen, and that nankeen is unlike any fabric available in today's market, but doesn't offer any suggestions as to what to use instead. Does anyone know what kind of fabric would give me the closest approximation? Thanks! Emily According to Montgomery, Textiles in America, Nankeen is a cotton cloth of plain weave originally sold at Nankin in China and made from a yellow variety of cotton... At least by the mid-eighteenth century, in the Manchester area it was made of ordinary cotton dyed yellow. Swatch number 62 in Holker's manuscript is nankeen suitable for men's waistcoats and trousers which he says wears very well. (see page 308 for more details) You might try to find coutil, which is made specifically made for corsets. It's fairly lightweight, but very strong. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Help! Really want to copy an outfit from the movie Scrooge
At 05:49 PM 2/6/2012, you wrote: Hello, all. I have questions about a beautiful outfit I saw in the 1970 version of the movie Scrooge. The lovely Edith Evans portrays the Ghost of Christmas Past, and enters so beautifully dressed! I have to copy it. I know, it's Hollywood (okay, Shepperton), but it's just so lovely I'm willing to give up the authenticity factor. I managed to get some still photos off the DVD. They're on my Flickr site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/24767089@N06/sets/72157629192291315/ Now, the questions. The book was published in 1843, but doesn't give Scrooge's age. That makes it very hard to guess what year the Ghost of Christmas Past originates. Scrooge was a little boy, but how many years have passed? Ms. Evans appears to be wearing a bronze or green silk gown and a pannier, with a red wool overcoat or overdress with a peplum. What would the gown underneath have looked like? Am I even close in my guesses of what I'm seeing? Thanks, Michelle Scrooge was a relatively young man in c.1810-1820, when he worked for Mr. Fezziwig. His childhood could well have been in the late 18th century, say the 1780s to 90s. The neckline of the gown resembles those dated 1770-80, 1775-85, and 1780-90 in Janet Arnold, Patterns of Fashion 1 (c.1660-1860). they are described in Arnold as either a polonaise or open gown and petticoat. The neckline is made modest by a buffon or handkerchief worn around the neck and tucked into the neckline. Stays and a bustle pad or false rump was worn under the gown. If I were making this outfit, I would base it on an open gown and petticoat. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Textile artist invents bicycle-powered wool carder
At 09:57 AM 12/28/2011, you wrote: Katharine Jolda's CycloCarder goes the extra mile http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/12/28/DD9H1MEC91.DTL If the link doesn't work, go to www.sfgate.com and search on the article title above. Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic clothing and needlework www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress The article will be available on-line tomorrow (Thursday, Dec. 29). It's on the front page of the Datebook section of today's San Francisco Chronicle. I want one 8-). Exercise on a stationary bicycle plus getting my wool carded, a double-plus! Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's on your Christmas wish list?
At 03:40 PM 11/5/2011, you wrote: My list usually tends heavily toward books, too. This year I'm planning to ask for Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion: 1660-1860 (believe it or not, I've never even read it!), and a VA book called 19th Century Fashion in Detail that apparently has gorgeous photographs. Emily I have both books. They are very useful. And, yes, 19th Century Fashion in Detail do have beautiful, and often very close-up, photographs. You will really enjoy them. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] SFGate: 'Masters of Venice: Renaissance Painters': review
I saw this and thought that members in No. Calif. might be interested. -- This article was sent to you by someone who found it on SFGate. The original article can be found on SFGate.com here: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/c/a/2011/10/29/DDND1LN5N9.DTL - Saturday, October 29, 2011 (SF Chronicle) 'Masters of Venice: Renaissance Painters': review a class=email fn href=mailto:sw...@sfchronicle.com;Steven Winn, Special to The Chronicle/a In its early galleries, Masters of Venice, which opens today at the M.H. de Young Memorial Museum, lays down some deep, somber chords from the Italian Renaissance. Surrounded first by five portraits of imposing male figures dressed in black, the viewer steps into an alcove to find a small masterpiece by Mantegna. The chiseled martyr St. Sebastian, posed against a classical colonnade, suffers his multiple arrow piercings with a fixed, far-off gaze that seems to peer back toward some classical ideal of sacred content and form. Then, in the rooms of Giorgiones, Titians, Tintorettos and other 16th century Venetian painters that follow, light, color, sensuality and a sense of full-body immersion in the natural world break through like a sunrise, illuminating the landscape as if for the first time. What we call painting was invented by the Venetians, said Paul Cezanne. In its artful and instructive deployment of 50 paintings on loan from Vienna's Kunsthistorisches Museum, Masters of Venice makes the case for a consciousness-altering moment in art history that's every bit as dramatic as the one documented in the de Young's pair of Impressionist-era shows. Like those two exhibitions, as well as the recent Picasso retrospective, Masters of Venice came about because a European museum was undergoing renovations that made parts of its collection available for touring. The de Young has perfected the nimble art of turning someone else's temporary dilemma into a stream of high-profile and mutually rewarding shows here. Everybody wins, local art lovers most of all. Masters of Venice is not on the scale of the de Young's other blockbusters. Its 50 works (plus a clutch of prints from the Fine Arts Museum's own collection) compare with 100 and 127 in the two Impressionist shows and 150 Picassos. The Venetian paintings have plenty of room to breathe in their San Francisco installation. But no one's about to complain of being undernourished by this absorbing procession of masterly oil paintings. The Giorgiones alone would merit an excursion. In The Three Philosophers, the seated figure (possibly Pythagoras) sends his contemplating gaze swimming into a deep, velvety shadow that falls across the landscape. A fretwork of bare tree limbs and trunks renders palpable the mysterious calculations of his two companions. Two nearby portraits are as lovely and haunting as anything in the show. The meltingly warm eyes, becalmed self-possession and tender affect of Giorgione's Youth With Arrow collapse the centuries between subject and viewer. He's in the room with us. Portrait of a Young Woman (Laura) is more of an enticing mystery, with the sitter's rather stony expression set off by a sweep of translucent drapery across one bared breast and a flare of leaves standing at alert attention around her. Titian could do anything, it seemed, including painting like the German precisionist Lucas Cranach if he wanted to. Portrait of Johann Friedrich, Elector of Saxony proves it. But the prolific Titian may have answered his greatest calling as a visual storyteller, whether he was catching an assassin in the act (The Bravo); zeroing in on the suicidal, dagger-wielding Lucretia just as her husband comes darting in over her shoulder; or capturing the vanity and furtive compulsion of a collector in Portrait of Jacopo Strada. The three large Titians that feature female nudes are sure to get plenty of attention, as well they should. The wonder of these canvases, with their mythical subjects and expanses of flesh, is how different and powerful the artist's use of the female form could be. You can almost feel the ruddy flush of his Venus as she turns into an open-mouthed kiss with Mars. In Danaë, the figure glows with marble-like perfection. The ambivalent heroine of Nymph and Shepherd seems half enchanted by her rustic suitor and half by the murky and menacing landscape beyond. A section on the lesser-known artists of Veneto serves a bland breather before the dynamic Tintorettos take over. Several of his portraits reward close attention, but nothing rivals the erotic tension of Susanna and the Elders, where two voyeurs spy on the sublimely innocent bather who has one leg plunged in the water while her sweet face dreams away into a mirror. Masters of Venice reaches its climax in the complex chords of Veronese's The Anointing of David,
Re: [h-cost] somewhat OT fabric question
At 05:19 PM 10/30/2011, you wrote: Aurora-- or anyone? See the next page (Drap de Milord) where it talks about fabric having 12 leaves and 6-12 picks per repeat? Or, Drap de Prince with 8 leaves and 3 picks. Are those weaving terms? If so, what do they mean? Totally agree-- a most interesting and useful compliation! == Marjorie Wilser Yes, the leaves are what we Americans today call harnesses; each leaf or harness holds a set of heddles for pattern weaving. Picks are what we also call a shots of weft. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Fwd: 15% Off Damask Cotton Prints!
These prints are quite various (some very humorous); I can see some of these as 18th-19th century outfits, a few of the designs could be used for earlier times as well. Joan Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 00:20:11 -0400 (EDT) From: Fabric.com l...@email.fabric.com Reply-To: em...@email.fabric.com To: joa...@surewest.net Subject: 15% Off Damask Cotton Prints! [] This message contains graphics. If you do not see the graphics, http://links.mkt2178.com/servlet/MailView?ms=MzY5MDM3MwS2r=Njg0Njk0NTAxMQS2j=MTE1NTE5NTEzS0mt=1rt=0click here to view. To ensure receipt of our e-mails, please add l...@email.fabric.com to your safe sender list. Thank you! This message was sent to joa...@surewest.net. Fabric.com Friday 10.07.11 through Sunday 10.09.11 Apparel Fashion Fabric Quilting Fabric Home Decor Fabric Notions Patterns CLEARANCE [] [] 15% Off Damask Cotton Prints Friday 10.07.11 through Sunday 10.09.11 Special pricing now through midnight Eastern Time Sale Price: [] 5.08 Up Regular Price: [] 5.98 Up Get Your Deal Now! [] [] Fall Fashion Favorites Biggest Reduction Sale Ever blog Facebook YouTube twitter Art Fire Unsubscribe / Update Your Email Preferences Fabric.com 2151 Northwest Parkway, Suite 500, Marietta, GA 30067 For all other customer service needs: 1-888-455-2940 (8.30 a.m. to 5.30 p.m. ET Monday through Friday) or email Customer Care. Due to limited quantities of merchandise, extremely popular items mentioned in this newsletter may sell out. Featured items were available at the time of this writing. We apologize in advance for any inconvenience. ©2011 Fabric.com. All rights reserved. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] checking in for the first time, hope I do this right
At 12:15 PM 10/5/2011, you wrote: I hope I'm doing this right. I've been lurking on this list for about 10 years or so but never posted. I'm just trying to figure out how. This is my favorite list. I don't costume much these days but I sew and hope to costume again. Tanya Hi, Tanya, Welcome to the discussions. I haven't been posting very much lately, but this list is a great learning resource on a wide variety of subjects. Feel free to post if anything interests you or if you have a question. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Fwd: Textiles Offers
I thought that many members of this list might be interested in some of these books. I know that I am. Joan Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 21:16:38 -0700 (GMT-07:00) From: micha...@dbbcdist.com To: joa...@surewest.net Subject: Textiles Offers THE DAVID BROWN BOOK COMPANY [] Textiles Offers Dear Joan Jurancich To celebrate the upcoming publication of âModa a Firenze 1540 1580 Cosimo I de Medici's Styleâ we have put together a llist of our best Textiles offers. The reductions encompass a wide geographical area and range from the Ancient World right up to the twentieth century so there should be something of interest for everyone. Titles include âAncient Textilesâ, âViking: Dress, Clothing, Klaer, Garmentâ, âTextiles from the Andesâ, and âMedieval Garments Reconstructedâ. These brilliant offers are available to you until the end of November so order today to avoid disappointment! The much anticipated âModa a Firenze 1540 11580 Cosimo I de Medici's Styleâ, a male companion to the title concerning female dress of the same period, offers an illuminating examination and discussion of the public and official image of Cosimo throughout his thirty year reign. The book is packed full of plates and, complete with thirty patterns, offers the reader the opportunity to recreate some of these designs themselves. We are very pleased to be able to offer you a pre-publication price of $99 for this beautiful title. In conjunction with this new title, we have also reduced âModa a Firenze 1540-1580: Lo Stile di Eleonora di Toledo e la sua influenzaâ giving those who missed it the first time another chance to pick up this title at a bargain price. This volume presents a study of sixteenth-century Italian fashion, costume, and the influence of Eleanor of Toledo on the Italian court, following her marriage into the Medici family. I hope that you find something which appeals to you. With best wishes, Michaela Goff Marketing Executive [] http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm/ID/75083/mid/25998 [] http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm/ID/75083/mid/25998Moda a Firenze 1540-1580: Cosimo I de Medici's Style by Roberta Orsi-Landini Roberta Orsi Landini uses material from the Florentine state archives to reconstruct Cosimo I de Medici's wardrobe, continuing her earlier work on Eleonora di Toledo. Cosimo consciously constructed his public and official image, and Orsi Landini follows his stylistic evolution over his thirty-year reign, including colors, materials and decorations. The author also examines manufacturing, especially silk producers, while a final chapter is ... US$99.00 Hardback. US$129.00 http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm/ID/48785/mid/25998 [] http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm/ID/48785/mid/25998Moda a Firenze 1540-1580: Lo Stile di Eleonora di Toledo e la sua influenza by Roberta Orsi Landini and Bruna Niccoli Italian and English texts, including: Eleonora di Toledo: Duchess of Tuscany in history and legend; Eleonora's style; Costume in the Medici ceremonies; The clothes that have survived; The individual garments; Tailors and embroiderers; Florentine textile production; The wardrobe of Eleonora di Toledo. 252p, 120 plates, mostly in color (Edizioni Polistampa 2005, reprinting 2007) Hardback. US$120.00, US$95.00 http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm/ID/75536/mid/25998 [] http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm/ID/75536/mid/25998Textile History and the Military edited by Marie Louise Nosch and Katrina Honeyman The issue consists of twelve papers which were originally delivered at the International Conference on Military and Textiles in 2008. The important but frequently overlooked connection between textiles and the military is addressed in this supplementary issue by academic historians, museum curators and conservators, archaeologists and military experts from a range of disciplines and fields of study. Between them the twelve articles ... Paperback. US$23.00, US$18.00 http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm/ID/86538/mid/25998 [] http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm/ID/86538/mid/25998North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles X edited by Eva B. Andersson Strand, Margarita Gleba, Ulla Mannering, Cherine Munkholt and Maj Ringgard The NESAT symposium has grown from the first meeting in 1981 which was attended by 23 scholars, to over 100 at the tenth meeting that took place in Copenhagen in 2008, with virtually all areas of Europe represented. The 50 papers from the conference presented here show the vibrance of the study of archaeological textiles today. Examples studied come from the Bronze Age, Neolithic, the Iron Age, Roman, Viking, the Middle Ages and post-Medieval, ... Hardback. US$96.00, US$77.00 http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm/ID/66934/mid/25998 [] http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm/ID/66934/mid/25998The Inventory of King Henry VIII: Textiles and Dress
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
At 02:10 PM 10/4/2011, you wrote: I just finished a white/silver brocade horse show shirt for my daughter. Then I mended a pile of odds/ends. Last winter I cut out a spring coat for myself, so it was next. I'm about an hour or so from finishing it. It's a blue and pastel plaid home-spun looking fabric. I have a whole bolt of flannel sitting here to make my 6'5 son 2 or 3 flannel shirts that have sleeves that are actually long enough. Then it's back to my daughter who wants another show shirt in black, tan, red and gold. That is going to be a humdinger of a project. If you want to see some examples here is a link with a good selection: http://www.showtimeshowclothing.com/store/20091014220056_20091130105022.html then it will be my turn again. I want to make a skirt and two pair of dress pants to coordinate with some jackets I found at a thrift store. Except for the show shirts, none of it is costume like and there is nothing historical about them now. Maybe in 50-100 years... Denise Iowa My goodness! With those prices, I can see why you make your daughter's horse show outfits. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] sacques, belated
Thank you, Melissa, for all these references. I've learned something I didn't know before. Very useful. Joan Jurancich Sutter's Fort Docent At 08:33 AM 10/2/2011, you wrote: I'm sorry to come so late to the discussion - this may now be irrelevant. I believe Nancy Rexford was right, these are sacques, used as she (or others on the list?) stated. Mid-19th century magazine are full of patterns for them and as a plain-sewing collector I have a few. Back when I first came across them I was just as confused, thinking them so much like men's shirts due to the fabric, square cut, binders, etc. Here are some excerpts from period sources, in no particular order, that I had found. - The two went back to the large room. The air was scorching. Miriam undressed, slipped her thin, girlish arms into a muslin sacque, and lay down. Christianna drew the blinds together, took a palm-leaf fan and sat beside her. I'll fan you, jest as easy, she said, in her sweet, drawling voice. An' I can't truly sing, but I can croon. Don't you want me to croon you 'Shining River'? Miriam lay with closed eyes. A fly buzzed in the darkened room. The fan went monotonously to and fro. Christianna crooned Shining River and then Shady Grove. Outside,on the brick pavement, the sound of feet went by in a slender stream. The Long Roll, 1911 and Mr. Herriott confronted Juno. You are Mr. Herriott, as I supposed. Walk in, and excuse the confusion of the rooms. I was up all night, and have not put things in order. She wore a dark skirt and white muslin sacque, ... A Speckled Bird, 1902 Not a word till you 're in bed again! Ruth will come up; won't you, Ruth ? And Miss Susie found herself deposited up stairs before she had a chance to make even a feint of resistance. Ruth sat down in the sewing chair, while Margaret made the little invalid's toilet, the child being all excitement at this partial escape. Shoes and stockings, and a dress. Oh, please Margaret, a real dress I not a clean nightgown, and that hateful sacque! Though it's a very nice sacque, and I don't know what I should have done without it; only I'm so tired of it now. That's real good Iand Susie stood on tiptoe to see herself in the glass over Margaret's dressing-table, but turned away with a rueful look. Oh, dear! I'm just like a boy! Oh, I didn't think I looked so queer! What made you cut my hair so close ? What am I going to do? Godey's, 1858 Q. Then the next paragraph is quoting from your report: No nightgowns are provided, the women wear instead short cotton sacques, and the same chemises they have worn all day. Then he comments on this: Those who wear the chemises do so from preference. The nightgowns are such as are provided at the Boston Lying-in hospital. and are perfectly well adapted for our class of patients? A. Well. I dont doubt that some of the women wear the chemises in preference. I have no doubt that lots of those people prefer to be dirty, but I dont think the superintendent should prefer to have them so; and as for the nightgowns being proper, I dont say that that is not the case, but I know it is not proper for them to wear the chemises that they wear in the daytime. I know one thing, that it is a very common institution practice for people to sleep in clothes that they wear during the day, and often if you will go through at night you will find nine out of ten or ninety-nine out of a hundred doing that in all institutions. I know that we found that to be the case in the institutions under our supervision, and we said that it wasnt clean, and that it shouldn't be done. The result is that we have had that carried out. They should not sleep in the clothes they wear in the daytime, and it is no excuse and no answer for the superintendent to say that they like to be dirty. Of course they do, lots of them. Q. (By the CHAIRMAN.) I would like to ask what the character of these nightgowns is? A. Little sacques that come down about to there, or therea little sort of unbleached-cotton jacket, coming a little below the waist. I dont question that they are worn in other hospitals, and I dont question that they are the proper gown to wear, but it seems to me it is better not to have the inmates wear at night anything they have been wearing during the day. I think the wards would smell sweeter if that was not done. We mentioned the fact that it was a short jacket or sacque to explain why they wore chemises at night, because otherwise it might seem strange that they should wear them in the night-time. The reason is because if they didnt wear anything else they would be very much uncovered. Documents/Boston, 1895 Before entering upon the treatment proper it may be well to review briefly the necessary adjuncts, as proper preparation will aid materially the course to be adopted. Preparations Necessary with Regard to the Patient.Many of the preparations necessary in the lying-in chamber are desirable in cases of abortion as well
Re: [h-cost] Reed Homestead update: VCR tapes, sacques, and ghostly happenings
It's also possible that they are children's clothes rather than women's. At 08:30 PM 9/21/2011, you wrote: Joan, we have men's shirts, as well, and they are very different from these. These garments are smaller, and well... more feminine (?). They are open all the way down the front, with a neck closure. It's clear that I'm not an expert. --- On Wed, 9/21/11, Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net wrote: From: Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net Subject: Re: [h-cost] Reed Homestead update: VCR tapes, sacques, and ghostly happenings To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Date: Wednesday, September 21, 2011, 11:10 PM Dede, Thanks for posting those photos. They look like men's shirts/chemises to me (the ones in the pictures look too short for women's shifts); I would not call any of them sacques (I associate that word with something other than body linens/underwear). Just from the styles, my guess would be late 18th through mid-19th century. I hope the Historical Society can publish some pictures/diagrams of them with whatever provenance is available; I'd be interested in buying something like that. Please keep us informed. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] split drawers
At 12:59 PM 9/14/2011, you wrote: Victorian women NEEDED split drawers. They wore a long chemise over the top of the drawers, and a corset laced up tightly on top of that, so the only way to drop a penny was to have the drawers split. You just couldn't get at them to pull them down from the waist. Kim That's not necessarily so. (Gentlemen, please delete this message, only the ladies should read it.) When in my 1840s outfit for Sutter's Fort, I simply do not wear any bifurcated garments. With 5 layers (shift, 3 petticoats, and dress) between me and the outside world (and no inclination to do cartwheels), my modesty is safe. I find split drawers to be very uncomfortable as they never fit properly and caused me to get badly chaffed. So all I need to do is pick up all the layers and take care of business. Of course, later in the 19th century fashions were different, but until the cage crinoline, drawers were not necessary for modesty. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] a question about passementerie
At 03:56 PM 9/12/2011, you wrote: Hello the list! I recently finished a garment which can best be described as the bastard offspring of a giermak and a kontusz (15th-16th c. Polish). I think it is nifty and I want to make more. And I like the look of metallic braid, so I would like to continue to use it for the decoration on the front, but inevitably the sort of braid I find wants to come apart on me. My question is, what should I do, in future, to finish the ends of the braid so that they do not unravel? This first construction used Elmer's glue (it was what was to hand) and that is obviously the wrong answer if one ever plans on washing the garment. Many thanks, Jen I've stitched (by hand) several times across the end of the piece of braid and then soaked the area of the stitching with Fray Check. I always tried to have the ends of the braids in a seam or otherwise enclosed. Plus, don't trim the ends too short or they will pull out of the seam, even with Fray Check. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] weight of batting [was:Re: Heavy underwear]
At 02:31 PM 9/2/2011, you wrote: The heaviest single article in all my undergarments is a quilted petticoat, BUT: it's cotton on the outside, cotton batting on the inside. In the period (1750 to, oh, say 1810), this petticoat would more likely have had wool batting, and either wool broadcloth or silk on the outsides. I've never had the pleasure of handling wool batting, and in my imagination it's lighter than cotton batting. Can anyone confirm that? Claudine Wool batting is less dense than cotton batting of the same thickness. I would expect a quilted petticoat with wool batting to be lighter than one with cotton batting. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Article on new research into material goods
At 02:07 PM 8/28/2011, you wrote: http://www.boston.com/bostonglobe/ideas/articles/2011/06/05/empty_trash_buy_milk_forge_history/?page=1 Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress Thank you for the link, Fran. It's an interesting article. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Scaled drawings of original garments
At 11:02 AM 8/8/2011, you wrote: Two other sources of scaled drawings: The Workwoman's Guide (reprint of 1838 edition) Alcega's Tailor's Pattern Book (reprint of 1589 edition) Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Linen for dyeing
At 04:18 PM 7/17/2011, you wrote: Does anyone know where to get that medium-weight, drapey 100% linen that was used for vintage tablecloths, in cream or white and in a plain weave (not damask)? I want to dye some yardage. Vintage tablecloths don't look like an option. I don't have time for garage sales. The ones on eBay are mostly damask, striped, embroidered. or printed. The plain ones there actually are not all that cheap per yard. Furthermore, my experience with dyeing vintage table linens is they can have old grease stains that do not show up on examination before dyeing, but which inhibit the dye in places when dyed. Thanks, Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress Try www.fabrics-store.com . Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Linen for dyeing
I've used the 5.3 oz (medium weight) primarily; it has a nice drape and would probably be what you are looking for. They have it in many colors. Joan At 06:47 PM 7/17/2011, you wrote: Is there any linen there you'd especially recommend? I've asked them about swatches but they have not replied. Thanks for any info, Fran On 7/17/2011 4:31 PM, Joan Jurancich wrote: At 04:18 PM 7/17/2011, you wrote: Does anyone know where to get that medium-weight, drapey 100% linen that was used for vintage tablecloths, in cream or white and in a plain weave (not damask)? I want to dye some yardage. Vintage tablecloths don't look like an option. I don't have time for garage sales. The ones on eBay are mostly damask, striped, embroidered. or printed. The plain ones there actually are not all that cheap per yard. Furthermore, my experience with dyeing vintage table linens is they can have old grease stains that do not show up on examination before dyeing, but which inhibit the dye in places when dyed. Thanks, Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress Try www.fabrics-store.com . Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1880's casual dress question
At 11:18 AM 7/4/2011, you wrote: Look for beach costume or seaside dress. I know I've seen some of those in the fashion magazines. Carmen On 7/4/2011 9:58 AM, Kathryn Pinner wrote: IIRC, 1879-80 is sort of between bustle periods. What would a young English lady living on the coast of Cornwall be wearing? I will be costuming Pirates of Penzance in January and am looking for some ideas of where to look. Fashion plates in Godey's and Harper's hardly seem the type of garment that young ladies would be wearing on the beach. Googling previous Pirates productions produces a wide range. Of course I know that it is an operetta with a rather silly premise and costume designers can take great liberties, but I would love to have some idea of what might actually have been worn. Any pointers in the right direction will be greatly appreciated. I am more familiar with 18th cent.-early 19th c. and then very late 19th c. (Fran, which of your books covers this?) Kate The book Fabric of Society: A Century of People and their Clothes 1770-1870 by Jane Tozer Sarah Levitt has a wonderful chapter on Seaside dress. One of the characteristics is the fabric used, mostly washable cottons (or linens). The general look reflects the currently fashionable styles. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Jean Paul Gaultier | Must See In Montreal
At 07:37 PM 6/27/2011, you wrote: Totally cool! Perhaps not Historic Costumeyet. Future-costume? http://www.stylelist.com/2011/06/24/jean-paul-gaultier-montreal-exhibit?icid=main%7Chtmlws-main-n%7Cdl10%7Csec3_lnk3%7C217210 Click on the photo to get to the slide show. Enjoy! I found nearly all of the costumes just weird, creative, but really weird. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] QEWU I
At 02:42 PM 4/3/2011, you wrote: Today is Drea Leed's birthday. Happy Birthday to Drea!!! She just released her work on the wardrobe warrants of Queen Elizabeth I, and has published them in their entirety, in a searchable website!! www.elizabethancostume.net/qewu.html For me this is a boon. I have always wanted to know the full context of quotes splattered across the handful of books on glove making from this manifest. Now that I can see it I can visually see the cuffs as they are described in the minuteness details. I am in heaven this day!! :D Franchesca Happy Birthday to Drea, and kudos on the lovely website. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Corset patterns and research questions
Hello, Michael, I recommend that you look into Laughing Moon Mercantile patterns ( www.lafnmoon.com ). Joanne has an excellent mid-Victorian corset pattern with both hip and bust gores. Sometimes, though, as in my case, the corsetier had to remove the hip gores to get a better fit. The main fitting issue with me is the fact that I am very short-waisted; something that will not be solved with gores. Joanne has her patterns very nicely graded, but corsets always require individual fittings since no two female bodies are shaped the same, even if the two wear the same size. Joan At 02:15 AM 3/24/2011, you wrote: Good morning everyone! I'm doing some research into corsets, and thought it best to start on here where many of you already have research. While I know a lot regarding corsets, I have two main focuses. The first is regarding corset patterns. I am hoping to develop a corset pattern and thus would like to be able to have as many corset patterns to base it off of as I can. While any corset pattern works, I am specifically hoping to find Victorian era corset patterns with hip and/or bust gores. From the many companies out there currently selling commercial pattersn, there are few who focus on corsets with gores. I am looking at trying to simplify the process of grading for different sizes, and believe that there might be a way to accomplish this with gored patterns. So if any of you have or know of patterns that I can get, please direct me in that direction! (Remember copyright laws and direct me to where I can find things, rather than just copy and paste.) Second, the little research I've done so far indicates that during the Victorian eras, there were many corset patterns that used gores - yet many of the current commercial patterns focus on those without. Is there a reason for this that anyone might be aware of? Is it easier to fit without gores? Are gored patterns more difficult to make up? Any help in this direction is also a huge plus! Please don't shy away, the more I can accumulate, the better my final pattern shall be once it is ready! Thanks in advance! Michael Deibert ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 15th c sewing technique
In Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion, Volume 1, there are pictures of a doublet (c. 1610) with buttons with worked linen shanks on the left edge of the front; the clearest picture of the buttons is Figure 162 on page 25. There are other examples. Joan Jurancich At 12:54 PM 2/14/2011, you wrote: Perhaps the Moy Bog dress? I don´t know of any bit of fabric in Textiles and Clothing that would have been complete enough for reconstruction, but the Moy Bog gown is... Hanna At 21:17 14.02.2011, you wrote: Buttons on the edge --- sounds like the extant dress that either Kass McGann or bangs head on desk - another top garb lady -- saw and reproduced. The dress was either Irish or Scottish in origin. It sticks in my head because the extant dress was *almost* the ladies exact size. Katheryne On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 2:37 PM, cw15147-hcos...@yahoo.com wrote: Buttons along the edge: that sounds familiar. I feel I've seen a photo of that...maybe in Textiles and clothing, c.1150-c.1450 (Crowfoot. et al) cited by Catherine earlier? It's been a while since I did any research related to that time period, but buttons along the edge triggered an image of an extant find in my muddled brain. Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Fwd: new Viking costume book on offer from DBBC
This just arrived in my inbox. Joan Jurancich Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2011 03:01:42 -0700 (GMT-07:00) From: ian.stev...@dbbcdist.com To: joa...@surewest.net Subject: new Viking costume book on offer from DBBC Dear Joan Jurancich Hot on the heels of Medieval Garments Reconstructed comes another northern European medieval costuming book. This one comes from the far reaches of northern Norway and is written and published by Nille Glaesel. Viking: Dress, Clothing, Klaer, Garment comes in two parts: the book and a folder containing three full-size patterns. Very well illustrated in color and with many drawings, the book is quite unique. This is what Nille Glaesel says in her introduction: For many years I have worked with textiles, making Viking clothes and shoes. I have also tanned leather and worked with a reconstruction of Osebergrevlene for the Viking Museum, Lofotr. I am often asked about patterns for the Viking's beautiful garments. It is through this work that I have seen the need for a book which makes it easy for anyone to sew their very own Viking costumes, based on the sparse findings that have been gathered and preserved from the Viking period. Although the findings are few, they nevertheless give us some clear guidelines for cut, use of materials and techniques. As an imported item, this is not an inexpensive work, but we have done the best we can and we're offering it for $100 for the next couple of weeks. Click below fo more information and to place an order. With regards, Ian Stevens DBBC Tel: 1-800-791-9354 - 'Viking: Dress, Clothing, Klaer, Garment' - by Nille Glaesel List Price: US$ 120.00 * Our Price: US$ 100.00 * Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm/ID/79981/MID/25998 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Book review
At 06:01 PM 12/30/2010, you wrote: I've been asked about this book, but not haven't seen it before, I couldn't offer much. Has anyone seen this one? Good Bad? http://www.etsy.com/listing/39296868/encyclopedie-illustree-du-costume-et-de alex So much to do and so little attention span to get it done with I must say that for $15 I'd take a chance on it. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Opinions on Manesse Codex diagonal stripes
At 07:15 AM 10/21/2010, you wrote: My first thought is that it seems to be some sort of artistic painting convention for depicting a party or performers. If you look at the stripes, they don't follow the lines of the clothes or the body - they're painted on in straight swaths, whether or not the line crosses an arm or a fabric drape. You can especially see it in the cuffs of the sleeves. /.2 cents :) I agree. It would be possible to make the outfits with diagonal or chevron patterns with either applique or using strips of cloth sewn together (as is done in modern quilts). I would not think of actually weaving diagonal or chevron patterns as yardage for clothing. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT to Victorian re-enactors
At 01:17 PM 7/6/2010, you wrote: Hi Jill oh my gosh! my husband remembers his grandmother's seed cake too (in BC, before he was about 10), and we've never been able to find a recipe for one like he remembers (small seeds and no liquorice tasting ones, he can't abide liquorice). most we've found include anise, fennel or caraway(?), which all make liquorice tastes. do you have YOUR seed cake recipe? chimene Try looking for a poppy seed cake recipe. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Sewing term - bride - 18/19thc?
At 11:22 AM 6/29/2010, you wrote: In Costume Close Up by Linda Baumgarten John Watson on page 107 describing a late 18th century shirt neck opening, the authors state A buttonhole-stitched bride is worked at the point to reinforce the slashed opening. The bride appears to be a later replacement. I have never heard of the term bride. Anyone know this term? Kate Pinner Costume Designer Kelsey Theatre 609-570-3584 It's a term from lace making. Other words that mean the same are bars or bridges (narrow bobbin or needle-made thread connectors). They are used to link individually made motifs of a lace design. In the case of the neck opening, they help reduce the chance of tearing. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fabric of Society - copy on eBay
At 01:16 PM 6/27/2010, you wrote: I am selling a copy of The Fabric of Society on eBay in case anyone here is looking for one. The listing is here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=110552408867ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT My user name is cachet-cachette in case the URL does not come through anyone's mail server. It's only 3 day auction because I expect it will go fast. Thanks! Sophie It should go fast, it's an excellent book. I love my copy. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 19th c women's dress - lining
At 04:24 PM 6/9/2010, you wrote: Also, should I plan to use a cotton or linen for the lining? Or could I use a silk? Because if silk would be acceptable for teh lining, I have a nice medium weight silk that I could dye myself, and I have lots of it. I am using a lightweight cotton for the interlining, the fabric is a calico cotton that an average weight--what you would use for quilting. Thanks for all your great feedback on these questions--and I have ordered the Who Wore What book as well, Amazon had it used. Yours in cosutming, lisa a For a cotton dress, it's best to use cotton for the lining. I'd save the silk for a dress (and silk dresses often have cotton or linen linings). Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] victorian gown?
At 06:52 AM 3/9/2010, you wrote: http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6097-products-10908.php?page_id=96 Is any part of this dress based on anything victorian? Or is this a copy of a movie costume? Dawn It looks to me like it could be a fancy-dress costume from the 1880s that was supposed to be colonial. I have seen some very interesting 1880s' era fancy dress costumes; no matter the time period that was supposed to be represented, they all had the 1880s' wasp-waisted silhouette. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Sale on faux fur
I got a notice this morning from Fabric.com about the Spring Clearance Sales. Some of the furs look pretty good, especially the ocelot and the lynx. http://www.fabric.com/spring-cleaning-sale-faux-fur.aspx Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Corset patterns, was Re: Question re: pattern sizes
At 10:02 AM 2/23/2010, you wrote: Hi, I recall, from somewhere in the vast world of online costume discussion groups, a statement that many of the Big 4 patterns for corsets tend to run really large. It was said that, at least for some of these patterns, it's necessary to cut them 1-2 sizes smaller than one's measurements would indicate, in order to get a finished corset that can actually lace properly and function as a corset should. Do any of you have any experience with this concept/issue? Any thoughts on specific patterns that should or should not be cut smaller than one's normal pattern size to get the proper result? Should I be directing this to any other group? Don't want to create duplicate e-mails for those who subscribe to more than one group, so I am starting here, but if you think some place else would be better, please so advise! Laurie Taylor (480) 560-7016 www.costumeraz.blogspot.com Well, you need a one to two inch gap in the back when you are laced in properly (if it closes completely, it's too big). If the pattern does not give the finished size of the corset, you will need to measure yourself, then the pattern pieces, and then choose the size that comes closest to the one that fits your body shape (ignore the pattern sizes, only pay attention to the actual measurements). If you are planning on wearing the corset frequently, I really recommend that you have the corset made by a corsettier. As a docent at Sutter's Fort, I am fairly regularly in my 1840's attire and a properly fitting corset is a necessity (it cost me a bit under $300, but is worth every penny). Also, I am very short-waisted (we had to chop off a full 2 inches at the top), so I found it best to have the corset made for me. You MUST make a muslin for fitting before you make the final corset. All in all, I don't recommend that you use one of the Big 4. The Laf'n Moon Victorian Underwear pattern is an excellent starting point (it's what was used for me); in addition to the corset pattern it also has chemise and split drawer patterns. I must admit that Joann Petersen, the owner designer of Laf'n Moon patterns, is a friend of mine, but I still think that her patterns are the best. From drizzly Sacramento, Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Margot Anderson pattern
At 06:20 PM 2/1/2010, you wrote: Has anyone used the Elizabethan Ladies Undergarments pattern? I am looking to make a new chemise and farthingale and wondered if anyone had any problems/loved it. Sharon Yep. I didn't need a new farthingale, but the corset and high-necked chemise patterns work well. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Grading patterns
At 12:13 PM 1/29/2010, you wrote: Sylvia, I think your question entirely appropriate for this list. I have a whole archive of historic patterns that I'd like to grade (none of them is even close to my own size!), but have never attempted. If you hear of a grader/service, I might be interested, too. Many thanks for posting! == Marjorie Wilser =: On Jan 29, 2010, at 9:31 AM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote: I know this question isn't related specifically to historic costuming, but I think some of you have made businesses from your passion for such and may have needed to grade their patterns up and down for sale. In the past, I have done my own grading, but I've never really learned totally how to do it and I have some ideas for new designs that, if they sell, I may need to size them up or down and these may be too complex for me to try on my own. Does anyone know of any professional graders? I live in Colorado, but I imagine I could ship my patterns out of state if I can't find someone here. Sylvia Rognstad When I first made a dress for Dickens Faire and Sutter's Fort about 30 years ago (!), there were no commercial patterns anywhere near my size or shape. Given that I am very short-waisted, I found it easier to start from my own fitted sloper and then make changes to give the cut of the dress I wanted. For example, a standard sloper has a side-bust dart; in the 19th century dresses the bust darts are from the waist; so I changed the bust darts to match my desired look. You might find this easier than grading a historical pattern, I certainly did. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] The Young Victoria's Film Costumes
At 06:02 PM 1/25/2010, you wrote: I looked at many of the photos on the site and found one that I had a question about... this one: http://www.flickr.com/photos/moorina/3854505420/in/photostream/ Does it look painted to you Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine Yes, it does look painted to me. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT regional English for mangle
At 06:02 PM 1/18/2010, you wrote: [snip] I do remember hating having to put up the wash on the clothes line and then get it in. At least we had drying wires in the basement for when it got cold or rainy! My mother even had special racks to insert into pants so they would dry with a crease in them! Ironing meant sprinkling each piece with a little water and rolling it up then putting it in a plastic bag so that everything got evenly damp so you could iron it. This was before steam irons but after the old sad-irons that heated on the top of the stove. [snip] You can still get the old-fashioned pants stretchers. And wringers. And sad irons. Lehman's, in Kidron, Ohio, sells lots of old-fashioned goods. I just received their Spring 2010 Non-Electric Catalog. Go to www.Lehmans.com . Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Dye Color
At 03:42 PM 1/15/2010, you wrote: In a message dated 1/15/2010 6:17:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, pi...@hundred-acre-wood.com writes: Kermes is a related insect to the cochineal bug--it gives that lovely deep pure red. Fustic is the heartwood of one of the trees in the Mulberry family, and it produces yellows and oranges. You could, in theory, use kermes with fustic but I think unless you had a very large concentration of fustic in relation to the concentration of kermes you'd get orange rather than yolk yellow. Yes, kermes is native to the Old World and so was used for that deep blue red before cochineal was discovered. It was often used for the reds in carpets, so think of that color. One seldom, if ever, actually combined dyes in a bath, but rather dyed first with one, then the other. I'm not sure if over-dyeing fustic with even a weak concentration of kermes would give yolk yellow. I agree that orange would be much more likely. Ann Wass You need to take into account that yolk yellow is not a clearly defined color. Today's commonly-seen egg yolks tend to be lighter in color than those from chickens who are free range, able to scratch and feed on fresh vegetation and insects as well as grain. Actually, yolk yellow, before the advent of caged chickens fed on grain mash, is more orangey than you generally see today. So I can see how one could get something in that range with a strong fustic dye overdyed with a weak kermes bath. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] recreating a regency bonnet cap.
At 02:12 AM 1/16/2010, you wrote: Hi, I need help with some measurements please. I am basing my recreation on the book 'The working women's guide' p. 64 [plate 9, fig. 11,12]. I understand what yards are equal too in metric measurements but not nails. Can any one shed light on what a nail is equal to in mm or cm? Also looking at figure 11 what would 3/4 stand for is that 3/4rs of a yard? Appreciate any help you can give me. Sharon Doig No, the 3/4 is 3/4 nail (all the measurements in the diagram are in nails). If you look at figure 12, you can see that there is some sort of gathering along those lines; Let there be two runners besides the hem in front, to admit of a tape or narrow ribbon. A small tuck sufficient for a narrow tape or ribbon is sewn; the tape or ribbon is long enough that when you untie them (see the small bows at the top of the cap), they do not bury themselves in the tucks (i.e., runners), but allow for the cap to be ironed flat and then drawn up by the tapes (it's very practical). A border is added (you get to choose how deep and whether doubled or not) to the front and, if wanted, the behind. These patterns do require a great deal of interpretation for us modern folks, don't they? But it's fun to figure them out. My tuckers (American for habit shirt) are made from the patterns in Plate 13, figures 20 and 23, with various collars from that plate; the instructions are on pages 98-99. Once you have drafted out a few of them, they actually make some sense =-O. One frustration I have is that modern linen fabric comes essentially in one width (very wide); I wish I could find some narrower ones (I may have to weave some of my own one of these days) so that I didn't have quite so much felling of seams (unneeded when sewing selvedge to selvedge). Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Silk source
At 11:28 AM 1/11/2010, you wrote: Right now I am looking at this one: http://www.decorativesilk.com/scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=45 Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com What lovely fabrics! What are you planning to make? Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Silk source
At 12:00 PM 1/11/2010, you wrote: I always buy the material, then I figure out what to do with it. My question is, this kind of silk is often designed for draperies and may be too large for the human body. I like the antique gold, but I am wondering how wide that stripe is. They do seem to have swatches. Some of their apparel fabrics are ugly, though. Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic clothing http://www.lavoltapress.com Given the prices of the fabrics, $25 for some of the swatch books would be a good investment. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Quiet list
At 09:06 PM 11/30/2009, you wrote: Hello! This list has been quiet for over a week - Is anyone out there? Does anyone want to share any plans for Yule/Solstice/whatever new costume projects? Sandy Still here. I need to cut out and sew some additional shifts for my Sutter's Fort outfit. But that's not really a new project. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Fwd: Deal of the Day - 50% Off Crystal Buttons
This just arrived in my email box. Given the trouble we have finding buttons and ouches, I thought some of you might want to browse through the selection. Joan Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:06:17 -0500 (EST) From: Fabric.com l...@fabric.messages2.com Subject: Deal of the Day - 50% Off Crystal Buttons [] This message contains graphics. If you do not see the graphics, http://links.mkt2178.com/servlet/MailView?ms=Mjc3OTQ0NwS2r=Njg0Njk0NTAxMQS2j=Nzk2NzQwMzYS1mt=1rt=0click here to view. [] CLEARANCE [] 50% Off Crystal Buttons Tuesday 11/17/09 Special pricing now through midnight Eastern Time Sale Starting Price: [] 0.99 Regular Starting Price: [] 5.62 Compare Price: [] 13.99 yd There is no better way to enhance your style than by adding crystal buttons to your garments to give them a touch of glamour and elegance. Don't forget that orders of $35 or more ship for FREE! Get Your Deal Now! Fall Holiday Fashion Section Sale Home Decor Blowout [] [] [] Yardage Charts [] Fabric Glossary [] ProjectsPrivacy Policy Thank you for agreeing to receive promotional and product-related email from Fabric.com To keep the Fabric.com emails coming, please add l...@fabric.com to your address book or safe list now. You have received this promotional email because you asked for information about Fabric.com or because you are a customer. To edit your email preferences or to unsubscribe, please click here. You may also be removed from this list by calling 1-888-455-2940, or emailing your request to Customer Care Fabric.com 2151 Northwest Parkway, Suite 500, Marietta, GA 30067 For all other customer service needs: 1-888-455-2940 (8.30 a.m. to 5.30 p.m. ET Monday through Friday) ©2004 Fabric.com. All rights reserved. [] Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net 916-485-3191 cell: 916-212-7115 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Viking alternate history--14thC/15thC Vinland?
At 07:48 AM 9/30/2009, you wrote: What kinds of fibers would the scraelings have had to weave with? They didn't have sheep for wool, did they? And linen is an Old World crop and cotton doesn't grow that far north, as far as I know. I am completely ignorant of Native American costume from that region, so what would they have made clothes and blankets out of? Tea Rose They primarily used skins and furs (no weaving needed); sewing would have been primarily with sinew from deer and elk. There are various sources of bast (i.e., stem) fibers available; they were sufficient for string and cords and such, not for weaving large items. All were available from non-domesticated sources. The First Nation peoples were familiar with weaving mats of various sorts as well as baskets. Until the introduction of European domesticates (both animal and vegetable), the fiber sources were small and cloth was not woven in the northeastern areas. In the southwest, cotton (originally from Mexico/Central America) was grown, spun, and woven into cloth. Cotton was the indigenous domesticated vegetable fiber of the Americas, but it was not available everywhere. In the Northwest (British Columbia/Washington) coastal areas, a small breed of dog was used for fiber as well as food. The Chilkat blankets were finger-woven on a type of warp-weighted frame for twining; the warp was typically shredded cedar bark. The study of fibers, spinning, and weaving in the Americas is a fascinating field (especially for someone like me who is very involved in spinning and weaving and wants to learn everything about the history of fiber and fabric :-)). Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Roman question
At 06:23 PM 9/11/2009, you wrote: Hi, Finally making progress in my quest to build pieces to use in my history class. The ancients are certainly some of the simplest to build, but of course I have an insatiable need to complicate my life and my projects! So, if you were building a Roman paenula (hooded poncho-like garment) in a thick wool or fake wool (actual fiber not certain), the cut edges of which are pretty stable, how would you sew the seams? Obviously I'm not looking for serging ideas here. I am maybe contemplating actually hand stitching it since it doesn't amount to a whole lot of sewing. I think my question is do we think that they would have lapped the edges and sewn through the layers - no flapping seam allowances on the inside? Or would regular, plain seams, pressed open or to one side seem more likely? This is NOT life altering stuff here! I've not gone over the edge in a quest for period accuracy. I'm just curious. Laurie Taylor (480) 560-7016 www.costumeraz.blogspot.com Whenever I sew selvedge to selvedge (or non-fraying edge to non-fraying edge), I use a whip-stitch, then flatten the seam with my thimble or a seam presser. That way you do not have any seam allowance to deal with. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Making piled fabric
At 07:10 PM 8/5/2009, you wrote: Good evening, Does anybody know where I could buy split rods for making velvet or other piled fabrics? I mean the ones with a groove to cut the pile loops? Thank you! My weaving guild had a presentation a few months ago by an expert on velvet production (my goodness, her samples from Italy were incredible!) who said that the velvet wires are no longer being made; the one maker of the wires just retired recently and no one has taken up the craft. In fact, she said that they are so valuable that if her house were on fire, she'd grab her velvet wires before she'd grab anything else. If you are not going to make velvet with a short pile, there are ways to come up with substitutes, but the real velvet wires are no longer in production. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Making piled fabric
At 09:28 PM 8/5/2009, you wrote: Aw. Well, thank you... Looks like I'll have to find other ways of doing this. Any ideas? I'm looking for a short pile, at *most* 3mm. And you will need to have a narrow ground warp, no more than about 22 wide, due to the limitations of weaving in a fine, stiff wire that needs to be kept straight (anything longer will bend and not cover the ground evenly). Whatever you use as a substitute for the velvet wires must be 1) very stiff and 2) very smooth. According to our speaker, the keys to producing good velvet are the quality of the velvet wires and the control of the warp tension of the pile threads. Now that you've whetted my curiosity, what are you planning to make? Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What period is this Butterick from?
At 06:31 PM 8/4/2009, you wrote: Hi, This is slightly off-topic but I'm curious and I figured this list would probably be best to answer. The latest fall Buttericks are out and there is one Making History pattern. Usually I can guess where they have drawn their inspiration from and what period that they are imitating but this is one is puzzling me. If you had to assign a time period what date would you give for this: http://www.butterick.com/item/B5405.htm?tab=costumespage=1 Sharon Nevin I'd guess the 1880's aesthetic dress fad: romantic Victorian interpretation of medieval(ish) dress. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] I have a request for info about a wooden loom
At 05:58 PM 7/27/2009, you wrote: I have a new friend whose daughter inherited a large wooden loom - which unfortunately was disassembled. Does anyone know of a website for general information about reassembling a very large loom? He knows almost nothing about the loom (it's in another state). His daughter could not find any markings on it. It was manually operated. Disassembled, it fit (barely) in the back of a pickup. Is there a website he can use to get some idea of how to put it back together? Thanks, Deb Salisbury The Mantua-Maker Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns Renaissance to Victorian Now available: Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, Definitions Uses www.mantua-maker.com http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com - See my Color of the Day I would recommend that he look for a Weavers' Guild in his area. That way he can actually find someone who weaves and can draw on their expertise. Here's the web site for the Handweavers' Guild of America http://www.weavespindye.org/ ; other source for guilds are Spin-off Magazine http://spinoffmagazine.com/ and Handwoven http://www.interweave.com/weave/handwoven_magazine/ . Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Seeking an image -- distaff on a hat
At 02:33 PM 6/11/2009, you wrote: A colleague needs quickly to locate an image he remembers seeing of a woman with a distaff stuck in her headdress. I'm sure I've seen this one too -- I have a vague impression that she was walking or going about other work, with a very small distaff stuck into a hat or turban or wrapped veil. Does this ring any bells for anyone? We don't need a reproducible image, just a citation, to the original manuscript or a secondary source. Please feel free to forward this request elsewhere, if you know of someone who might have the answer offhand. Thanks, Robin There's a drawing of a Norse woman with spinning material attached to her head with a band; she is basically using her head as the top of the distaff. The drawing can be seen as Figure 16 (page 47) in Woven into the Earth: Textiles from Norse Greenland by Else Ostergard, Aarhus University Press 2004 [ISBN 87 7288 935 7]. The caption states that the drawing is from 1555. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] unsubscribe
At 12:31 PM 5/15/2009, you wrote: Please can you unsubscribe me from this mailing list, as I have no further use with it at present. Thank you Sarah Sarah, There is a list-unsubscribe address in the header of the emails you receive from h-costume. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Quiet list?
At 09:14 PM 5/14/2009, you wrote: Hello out there - everyone must be busy, the list is so quiet. Sandy The only sewing I've been doing is repair work on a dress for Sutter's Fort (which I still need to finish). I spent much of today helping a friend by taking her to the hospital for (planned) surgery, waiting with her as she signed lots of papers, had an IV installed, and until she was wheeled off to the surgical theater just before noon, then calling her family and friends to keep them informed of what was going on. Thank G-d she is in her room, resting comfortably (well, as comfortable as one can be after abdominal surgery). I'll be going to her place each day she is in the hospital to take care of her cats. She asked everyone to hold off on calling her until Sunday. So that's what I've been up to. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Silk velvets, was Re: custom made brocades
At 03:01 AM 4/27/2009, you wrote: Elena House wrote: Wow, you know, this just suddenly put the whole medieval textile industry into perspective for me, since the type of design I most want to see in brocade is on average at least 50cm x 150cm repeat. You do the math for the cost on that one *nods* I saw a nearly perfect all-silk scarlet and yellow brocade, very medieval, at Britex, more than a dozen years ago, for $150/yard. I spent quite a while admiring it. I suspect that there are suitable top of the line brocades out there, it's just getting access to the catalogs that places like Britex uses for their ordering is impossible for the rest of us. -- Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent I had the great pleasure of seeing (and touching!) some 100% silk velvets (plain, figured, and cut/uncut) hand-woven in Italy at last month's weavers' guild meeting here in Sacramento, CA. I also found out why the fabrics are only 22-24 inches wide; the velvet wires that are used to get the pile cannot be kept straight in the weaving if the fabric is too wide. Given that one weaver boasted that he could weave 20 cm in a day(!) of a figured velvet (our speaker thought that he was possibly exaggerating a bit), you can see why it costs 350 Euro per meter. Velvets with cut and uncut sections are even more expensive because they are even more labor-intensive and require a very steady hand in cutting just the right portions of the pattern. Even solid colored velvet is very expensive. So, yes, wearing the worth of a manor on one's back is not an exaggeration. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's on the horizon
At 01:41 AM 4/7/2009, you wrote: Take a look at this from MIRAlabs at the University of Geneva: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrJS72lkX_cNR=1 Then look at the finished product: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ekc_9vPDbo8feature=related Back in 1997, I searched for graduate level programs to do this for costume and fashion. At the time, I couldn't find a program. MIRAlabs is working on a few more projects similar to this: http://www.miralab.unige.ch/ Penny Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history Wow! That's impressive. And very lovely, too. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Browned lace Edwardian? Collars
At 08:14 AM 3/9/2009, you wrote: I had some lace that my father brought home from Belgium France after WWII that was probably the same color as yours. I wanted to use it on my wedding gown (Edwardian style). We went into New York and scoured the garment district, thinking an off-white/cream/candlelight silk would be perfect. All of those were hideous! What was absolutely gorgeous was a pale pink (rather unheard for a wedding dress in 1982 where I was). We washed the lace in the stuff they use to wash horses -- starts with a 'c', can't think of the name. Kate I think you mean Orvus. It's also sold in quilt shops for washing antique quilts. It's pure sodium laurel sulfate; no additives of any sort. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Bamboo for corsets, was Re: Arnolfi dags and pleats
At 01:45 PM 3/5/2009, you wrote: The closest SCA is almost 2 hours away from me now. If I move to Dallas, I think my sister will go with me. We both love costumes and this period. She makes costumes/garb for the Pocahontas Festival in Larado for several years. BEAUTIFUL beading. HEAVY costumes, too. I'm trying to find boning or something to use for my sorset. The ties I bought aren't long enough so back to the store they go. My neighbor has a yard of MASSIVE bamboo. I may get some of that and strip it into narrow pieces to use. I'll use it green and have it on a dummy until it's dried inside. That way it should keep whatever shape I put it into. It will take some work but no money since it's free. I'm now working so I have no extra money (extra= any). Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine I'd be very leery of using bamboo. It splinters very easily and such splinters pierce just about any fabric and can go into your flesh. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Cable ties, was Re: Bamboo for corsets
At 04:53 PM 3/5/2009, you wrote: I will go look tomorrow. I didn't know they came that long. I definitely ask for the longer ones. I can cut them myself.. I think. We have a can of that plastic cover paint to use on the ends. Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine You don't need to use any paint on the ends, just round the ends and use a file to get off any possibly sharpish bits. I have not had any trouble with the ends poking through. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Mary I ???
At 03:05 PM 3/1/2009, you wrote: http://z.about.com/d/womenshistory/1/0/Y/Q/2/mary_i_tudor_holbein_001a.jpg Anyone seen this one before - the image name indicates it is a Holbein?? Sg That's a new portrait to me. And the headdress looks too late for Holbein (he died in 1543). I'd want some documentation before I'd accept it as Mary Tudor before she came to the throne. At a guess, it could be an illustration done in the 19th century. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Corset boning with zip ties
At 05:52 PM 3/1/2009, you wrote: What a clever idea! However, does it retain any kind of shaping to the wearers silhouette? Sidney I haven't noticed any problem with that. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Corset boning with zip ties
At 06:11 PM 3/1/2009, you wrote: If you are a size 22, these are not strong enough for a corset. I tried. Susan I'm about a size 22 and they worked fine for me. I just made certain that the boning was pretty solid. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Reprint of 1879 book--Lessons on Clothing
I just received a note from Amazon about this new reprint and thought that some of the members would be interested: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1441408142/ref=pe_5050_11352390_pe_snp_142 The author is Mrs. W. T. Greenup. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Reprint of 1879 book--Lessons on Clothing
At 11:56 AM 2/16/2009, you wrote: Do you know anything about this book? Amazon doesn't say much. Sharon C. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Joan Jurancich Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 9:30 AM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Reprint of 1879 book--Lessons on Clothing I just received a note from Amazon about this new reprint and thought that some of the members would be interested: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1441408142/ref=pe_5050_11352390_pe_snp_142 The author is Mrs. W. T. Greenup. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net I know absolutely nothing about this book other than what is on Amazon (pretty minimal). I was hoping that someone on the list would be familiar with it and could give advice on whether or not it is a useful reference. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Ikat - Was: Vietnamese loom
At 06:04 AM 2/8/2009, you wrote: And it even is period in Europe - I am on my way out of town - I'll have to look for the pictures when I get home. Seems I have a picture somewhere of a young boy in it in the 15th or 16th century Europeand of course later in the 18th/19th. Sg One version of the Armada portrait of QEI has what look like ikat bows trimming the front of the skirt. Look at the portraits on page 35 of QEWU. Illustration 52 is a bw version of the Armada portrait that I have in color in two other books; it looks like the plain color bows are alternated with ikat-streaked bows that are slightly darker colored (in the color versions). The boy in Illustration 53 is in definite ikat fabric (early Jacobean). Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Vietnamese loom
At 04:47 PM 2/6/2009, you wrote: Hmm, I used one of these when visiting a workshop in Bali (and had to pay five thousand rupia for the privelige of doing someone's work for five minutes. I gotta say, my five minutes was equal to about twenty minutes of the regular operator's. The thing is called either a back-trap or back-strap loom (my memory and my host's heavy accent mean it could be one or the other). It is operated row-by-row with the aid of a foot pedal and a horizontal hand bar, all timber. You work the lines of thread horizontally through the vertical threads set onto the loom. You can vary the thread for colour as you go but, amazingly in Bali, I saw thread pre-dyed at various points so as to create a regular pattern. I would give twenty zillion dollars for my brane to remember the term for this technique but it is 115 degrees here and I am not about to go thinking. Still, the pattern is fantastic, a little blurred at the edges due to the in-exact way the pattern comes out. I have a couple of shirts with it as a feature pattern around the collar and splodges of the dye on the main part of the shirt -- they really don't set dyes well thereabouts! -C. It is a backstap loom (the weaver's body provides the warp tension). The pre-dyed thread you are referencing is called ikat. You can have a warp-ikat, or a weft-ikat, or a double ikat (both warp and weft are dyed). I love ikats. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Vietnamese loom
At 10:20 AM 2/6/2009, you wrote: Hello everyone, My elder brother, who is currently studying ethnic minorities in Vietnam, came to me with a question about a loom he saw there. Unfortunately I was unable to answer him, since my weaving knowledge is very scarce, but I promised him to try and find more knowleadgeable persons, and where else can I find them but here ? ;) I'll try to be as clear as possible, although I have to translate his words into English, and I must say I'm not very familiar with French weaving terms to begin with. Basically, he photographed this : http://www.flickr.com/photos/19370...@n02/ and he's now wondering what type of loom it is, how best to describe it and how elaborate or modern it could be. More specifically, he saw similar looms in other works described as an horizontal loom with one row (shaft would be more appropriate, I believe ?) of heddles, or sometimes as one with two shafts (the French words, for those interested, were rangs de lisses). He tried to do his own research on the web, but living in Cambodia he hasn't access to the best ressources, and he's not sure whether this loom is of the first or the latter kind, or if, as he suspects, it is a third, different type. Hopefully the pictures are good enough for more experienced eyes than his to tell ? You can reply privately or on the list if the subject does not seem too off topic (though it's not historical per se). If some of you are particularly interested, I can of course ask him more about the pictures and where they were taken ! Thank you for your help, Mathilde The loom is a backstrap loom. It's been used in Southeast Asia and China for millennia. The basic weaving is probably plain weave; the patterned stripe is done with a pick-up technique. It's amazing that such a simple loom can, in the hands of a skilled weaver, have a product that is so complex. Just goes to show that it's the skilled weaver rather than the loom that is key to beautiful weaving. Another area where the backstrap loom has been used for millennia (and for very complex weaving) is in the Andes. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Sale on 2.8 oz pure linen
Just received an email from Fabrics-store.com about this promotional sale through January 25th: http://www.fabrics-store.com/first.php?goto=big_fabricmenu=fmenu=ffabric_id=1089 The price is $7.16 per yard. Your fabric-stash enabler :-} , Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Tatted Lace Trim?
At 11:09 AM 1/11/2009, you wrote: Nice pics... God I wish I had more time to sew. :) The Mary Tudor portrait... that looks like multi-coloured tatted lace on the under-sleeves, between the chemise puffs. How far back does tatting go? Meli Tatting only goes back into the early 19th century. It was proceeded by knotting; several portraits from the 18th century show queens knotting and there are references in diaries by various noble- and gentlewomen to making trims. Making fly fringe is a knotting technique (which I want to learn one of these days). Tatting can simulate needle lace. A close look at examples of both techniques will show that the needle lace is done by sewing with buttonhole stitch while tatting uses a shuttle and makes a larks head knot. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Fwd: Announcing Limited Time Sale on Light Weight 100% Linen!
I thought that some of the list members might be interested in this sale. :-} Joan To: Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] From: Fabrics-Store.com Chronicle [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 08:04:04 -0500 Subject: Joan, Announcing Limited Time Sale on Light Weight 100% Linen! Dear Joan, Light weight 100% linen fabric IL020 is now on Sale! IL020 - 3.5 ounces a yard 100% linen is one of the finest linen fabrics available in the world. IL020, better known as Handkerchief linen, has an incredibly gentle hand, is woven using fine staple threads and has very few slubs. The thread can be this fine without weakening the fabric because it is made from long staple flax. IL020 linen fabric application is often seen in: * Couture Women and Men Clothing; * Reenactment Costumes; * Embroidered Bedding; * Christening Gowns and Altar Linens; * Curtains; * Sleepwear; The finesse of this easy in care, handkerchief linen makes it a favorite among people who love luxurious, comfortable surroundings. For this week, only until Sunday November 30th, randomly selected colors of IL020 are at an additional 10% off. http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=IkMuem=1fWkpWCFGXkFyHb=HVG3_uQ1bPgoq4GV9oK0OgEnter here to go directly to the discounted light weight 100% linen and save 10%! Thank you and enjoy, Nikolai Karpushin Owner and President, http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=IkMuem=1fWkpWCFGXkFyHb=HVG3_uQ1bPgoq4GV9oK0OgFabrics-store.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Advice on books available from Amazon.com
At 02:12 AM 11/24/2008, you wrote: I've used costume in detail to make reproduction dresses. Granted, it doesn't give you patterns on a plate in the way that Arnold and Waugh do, but it gives you the detail you needs to make a fairly accurate repro when used in conjuction with a wider knowledge of pattern cutting and making up techniques of the given date. A fabulous book. I agree with you. Before commercially available historic patterns came in anywhere near my size (and were any good for historic reproductions), I had to use Cut of Women's Clothes and Costume in Detail to modify my sloper (from The Costumers Handbook) to make my first dress for Sutter's Fort (1846). Drafting up the pattern for that dress also let me find out just how short-waisted I am and why I can't find a semi-fitted jacket in my size. I also used Costume in Detail to figure out the pattern for the first day cap I made. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Double-sided velveteen
I just received my regular email from fabric.com. They are having a sale on double-sided velveteen. Here's the URL: http://www.fabric.com/CategoryDetail.aspx?CategoryID=f77efb13-f39f-4057-949e-6aaef12352be It might well be too heavy for clothes, though. Has anyone used this fabric before? Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Setting color question
At 01:17 PM 8/26/2008, you wrote: This has probably been addressed here before, but I don't remember the advice (or it was before I joined). I have some dark red linen that I would like to use, but I want to wash it first. My local fabric store usually carries a product called Retayne but they have been out of it for a while. It's a color fixative for cotton fabrics according to the label and is used in hot water. I've been using it on linen with good results. What can I use instead? Someone at the fabric store suggested white vinegar, but she was not sure of the water temperature or amounts. I would like to wash the linen in warm/hot water, if possible, to allow it to shrink before I use it. I'll be doing it in the machine, since it is about six yards. Any advice? Thanks, Catherine I'd go to http://dharmatrading.com/ . They sell everything you need for dyeing fabric. And here's the direct link to a dye fixative http://dharmatrading.com/html/eng/1569-AA.shtml?lnav=chemicals.html . Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fwd: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Wool Gabardine
At 02:20 PM 8/7/2008, you wrote: Can you wash this or must it be dry cleaned? And if you can wash, how? Sharon C. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joan Jurancich Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 9:35 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Wool Gabardine For those of you who want to use a firmly woven wool for your outfit, I recommend gabardine. Here's the direct link to the sale page: http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-wool-fabric-wool-gabardine-fabr ic.aspx?cm_mmc=Email-_-8/04/08%20Deal%20of%20the%20Day-_-Deal%20of%20the%20d ay-_-Thursday Personally, I'd wash it with Synthrapol in warm water (then dry it in the dryer on delicate) before cutting. That way you can get rid of any excess dye so that you won't have any problems with colors running and any shrinkage will be taken care of. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Fwd: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Wool Gabardine
For those of you who want to use a firmly woven wool for your outfit, I recommend gabardine. Here's the direct link to the sale page: http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-wool-fabric-wool-gabardine-fabric.aspx?cm_mmc=Email-_-8/04/08%20Deal%20of%20the%20Day-_-Deal%20of%20the%20day-_-Thursday Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 00:01:35 -0400 (EDT) From: Fabric.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Wool Gabardine This message was sent to [EMAIL PROTECTED] [] Fabric.com Deal of the Day [] 40% Off Wool Gabardine Thursday 08/07/08 Special pricing now through midnight Eastern Time Sale Price: [] 5.99 yd - Regular: [] 9.98 yd Compare at: [] 14.99 yd Wool gabardine is a wonderfully resilient, tightly woven fabric. Gabardine is considered an easy care fabric because of its strength and resistance to wrinkling. This natural fiber can be worn throughout the year. Wool gabardine is perfect for skirts, pants and jackets. 100% wool, 56'' wide Shop Now Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Fwd: Enormous Sale 20 Yard Bolts In All Popular Weights!
To: Joan [EMAIL PROTECTED] From: Fabrics-Store.com Chronicle [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sender: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 08:08:49 -0400 Subject: Joan, Enormous Sale 20 Yard Bolts In All Popular Weights! Dear Joan, Four months ago I did a sale that got such a positive response, that everyone kept asking me to do it again! Because the deal was so good for my customers, almost too good, I couldn't afford doing the deal again and again like my customers asked for. But after four months, it's back: So here's the deal: I am taking all the popular fabric weights: * Light weight 3.5 ounces/yard IL020 100% linen * Medium weight 5.3 ounces/yard IL019 100% linen * Heavy weight 7.1 ounces/yard 4C22 100% linen * Super Heavy weight 8 ounces/yard IL090 100% linen I am including the utmost necessary colors: * Bleached * Bleached Softened * Natural * Natural Softened And I am cutting them down to easy-to-order 20-yard bolts and discounting the bolts 10%! The Natural and Bleached colors never go out of style and the weight diversity allows you to make anything ranging from bed linens for children, to summer suits for both men and women, to slipcovers for your couch. Hey, at these prices - you can even have linen as your wallpaper! These essential fabrics, in the basic weights necessary to complete almost any project - will be on this sale only for this week until Sunday the 3rd. I cannot afford to do this sale again for a long time! With this deal, you can have your basic 100% linen needs covered for the near future! http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=C4tymm=1glmDIdVi7kVyHb=8Bp6tXrR2ANA6N8mKFva8QEnter here to go directly to the discounted bolts and save 10%! Sincerely, Nikolai Karpushin Owner and President http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=C4tymm=1glmDIdVi7kVyHb=8Bp6tXrR2ANA6N8mKFva8QFabrics-store.com P.S. Don't forget that with every purchase, you earn points that can be transferred into dollar credit. P.P.S. Sign up to receive our Doggie bag alerts and be the first to know when new Doggie bags are posted. These are 1st quality precut pieces of fabric. Since they are precut, you get them at terrific discount. After all, you'd cut them anyways. P.P.P.S If you know someone who will value this information, feel free to forward them this email. Terms Conditions Offer cannot be applied to previous or pending purchases. Creative Work Media, LLC., 6325 Santa Monica Blvd., Suite 102, Hollywood, CA 90038, USA To unsubscribe or change subscriber options visit: http://www.aweber.com/z/r/?TKxsHMwstMysjCycjCxstEa0zGzMHIxsDA==http://www.aweber.com/z/r/?TKxsHMwstMysjCycjCxstEa0zGzMHIxsDA== I just received this notice and thought that you all would like to take a look at the linens on sale. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 2 piece sleeves
At 03:50 PM 6/5/2008, you wrote: This isn't really a historical costume question, but it's been ages since I belonged to a general sewing/patternmaking email list. If anyone knows of one that currently exists, I'd appreciate a link. My question concerns a jacket I am patterning and making for myself. Actually, I am using a couple commercial patterns and adapting them. I have a 2 piece sleeve and a bodice with front and back princess seams that end at the armhole. I really can't adjust the front seam downward any more than it already is and it isn't matching the front sleeve seam. The back seams don't match either but I've frequently garments where they don't match in the back or they don't match in the front but they match on the opposite side. I know 2 piece sleeves are often seen in 19th century onward women's garments so I thought I'd see where you all stand on this issue. Do you really think the seams need to match on either the front or the back? Sylvia Personally, I wouldn't worry about matching them if you think they look okay. I'd baste the jacket together, put it on, and have someone take a look at it. If they don't see a problem, I'd go ahead and sew it up. How far off are they from matching? Could you add a row or two of plain stitching paralleling the seams to make them come together visually? Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Banyan
At 01:57 AM 6/1/2008, you wrote: I have finished my Banyan. For those who would like to see it, its here: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/Banyan.htm Bjarne Bjarne, As usual, it's very handsome. And looks to be comfortable, too. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Catching up
At 02:07 AM 5/5/2008, you wrote: I just sent another image to the web with a close-up of one medallion. Feel free to download it and zoom in to see the stitches. http://www.costumegallery.com/temp/P1030429A.jpg If using IE, place your cursor on the lower right corner, an arrow will appear, and click on it for the enlargement to see the stitches. I am open for discussion. Penny Ladnier, Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com www.costumelibrary.com www.costumeclassroom.com www.costumeslideshows.com It looks like embroidery to me, with needle lace around the medallion. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] New book from Oxbow Press: Dressing the Past
I received the email from David Brown Book Company today. It sounds like a fascinating book. Dressing the Past edited by Margarita Gleba, Cherine Munkholt and Marie-Louise Nosch Minoan ladies, Scythian warriors, Roman and Sarmatian merchants, prehistoric weavers, gold sheet figures, Vikings, Medieval saints and sinners, Renaissance noblemen, Danish peasants, dressmakers and Hollywood stars appear in the pages of this anthology. This is not necessarily how they dressed in the past, but how the authors of this book think they dressed in the past, and why they think so. No reader of this book will ever look at a reconstructed costume in a museum or at a historical festival, or watch a film with a historic theme again without a heightened awareness of how, why, and from what sources, the costumes were reconstructed. The seventeen contributors come from a variety of disciplines: archaeologists, historians, curators with ethnological and anthropological backgrounds, designers, a weaver, a conservator and a scholar of fashion in cinema, and are all specialists interested in ancient or historical dress who wish to share their knowledge and expertise with students, hobby enthusiasts and the general reader. The anthology is also recommended for use in teaching students at design schools. 190, b/w illus, 32p col illus. (Oxbow Books 2008) ISBN-13: 978-1-84217-269 Paperback. Publishers price US $50.00, DBBC Price US $40.00 ISBN-10: 1-84217-269-7 Table of Contents Introduction by the Editors; Haute Couture in the Bronze Age: A History of Minoan Female Costumes from Thera (Marie-Louise B Nosch); You are What You Wear: Scythian Costume as Identity (Margarita Gleba); On the Borders of East and West: A Reconstruction of Roman Provincial and Barbarian Dress in the Hungarian National Museum (Ilona Hendzsel, Eszter Istvánovits, Valéria Kulcsár, Dorottya Ligeti, Andrea Óvari and Judit Pásztòkai-Sze?ke); A Weaver's Voice: Making Reconstructions of Danish Iron Age Textiles (Anna Nørgaard); Iconography and Costume from the Late Iron Age in Scandinavia (Ulla Mannering); Tools, Textile Production and Society in Viking Age Birka (Eva B Andersson); Spotlight on Medieval Scandinavian Dress: Sources and Interpretations (Kathrine Vestergaard Pedersen); Tailored Criticism: The Use of Renaissance and Baroque Garments as Sources of Information (Cecilia Aneer); Costume in a Museological Context: Dealing with Costume and Dress from Modern Danish History (Tove Engelhardt Mathiassen and Helle Leilund); Cut, Stitch and Fabrics: Female Dress in the Past 200 Years (Maj Ringgaard); Ancient Female Costume from Silent Cinema to Hollywood Glamour (Annette Borrell); Timeline (Agnete Wisti Lassen). Here's the link to the book entry in the catalog: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=80134MID=25998 Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Fwd: Joan, Limited time promotional sale on new super light weight fabric!
From: Fabrics-Store.com Chronicle [EMAIL PROTECTED] Dear Joan, What a better way to start your projects than with huge savings on an incredibly popular fabric! You have heard of the very light weight fabric. Delicate and very exclusive, this fabric is on the crafters most wanted list any time of year, and even more so during the warm spring/summer seasons. Weighing only 2.8 ounces and woven with 78 threads per inch, this refined cloth is to be used for projects that need the lightest yet strongest of all available fabrics. To make sure that your fabric needs are met, this cloth type was manufactured in 100% Linen and in a Linen/Cotton blend. If you prefer less ironing and wrinkling- choose the IS001 Linen/Cotton blend and it will prove itself to be above your expectations If you wish to maximize health benefits of your article, to increase its longevity or simply because you are a 100% linen kind of person, then the IL(030) is the right match for you Both these fabrics are certainly very easy to work with and can definitely be washed. Ease of fabric care allows you to use anything you have made out of this fabric everyday - even after an incredibly humid and dusty day, you just throw your things in the washer and they are as good as new and ready to go. This fabric tends to be difficult to find and if you find it, it usually costs too much to be used everywhere it is needed. Starting right now, you no longer need to search for more affordable substitutes. With this promotional discount, you can get enough of this fabric for all projects that require the finesse and durability of this cloth be it a ladies slip, a man's pocket handkerchief or an elegant window treatments. The promotion will be this week - only through Sunday May 3rd and is an excellent opportunity to save an extra 10%. http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=C4tymm=1atVFD4dH7kVyHb=kgkgUOTyOCT5W6QfEsJM2QEnter here to go directly to the discounted 2.8 ounces a yard fabric and start saving now! Thank you and enjoy, Nikolai Karpushin Owner and President, http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=C4tymm=1atVFD4dH7kVyHb=kgkgUOTyOCT5W6QfEsJM2QFabrics-store.com P.S. Don't forget that with every purchase, you earn points that can be transferred into dollar credit. P.P.S. Sign up to receive our Doggie bag alerts and be the first to know when new Doggie bags are posted. These are 1st quality precut pieces of fabric. Since they are precut, you get them at terrific discount. After all, you'd cut them anyway. P.P.P.S If you know someone who will value this information, feel free to forward them this email. Terms Conditions Offer cannot be applied to previous or pending purchases. I just received this and thought about all those costumers who may need fine linen for shifts, coifs, etc. Enjoy! From your friendly fabric stash facilitator :-}, Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Clarification: Questionaire
At 10:48 PM 4/23/2008, you wrote: I would like to add one more question: Time to come clean...What was the most price of you have ever paid for a book, collection of work, etc. We won't tell your mate! LOL! You don't have to name give the title, just in case you were taken to the cleaners on a purchase. Example: a book and the amount. Penny Ladnier, Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com www.costumelibrary.com www.costumeclassroom.com www.costumeencyclopedia.com I paid $210 for one book (no, it's not QEWU :-P; that was only $135 or so). It's Buckskin and Homespun by David Holman and Billie Persons (1979), #88 of 450 (Regular Edition); published by Wind River Press. It's a survey of Frontier Texas fashions from 1820 to 1870. Since I don't have a spouse, there's no one to hide the price from :-D. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] On-line sale on silk and wool fabrics!
I received an email from Denver Fabrics about a sale on silk and wool fabrics. Here's the direct link to the sale fabrics: http://www.denverfabrics.com/Cart/catalog_items.aspx?Query=silk%207.00 Your friendly fabric stash facilitator, Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Les Adieaux en miniature
At 11:53 AM 4/8/2008, you wrote: Sorry this is off topic, but it is historical costume. I finnished the doll dress and i promised you to see it finished: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cl31.htm More here: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/the_queens_lady_in_waiting.htm I am going on a small holliday to Berlin the day after tomorrow, it wil be nice, but i cant waite to get home again and start another one. Bjarne Very pretty, Bjarne. And it definitely is appropriate for h-costume. I can understand how you want to expand her wardrobe. @ Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Fwd: Joan, Enormous Sale - 20 yard bolts in different fabric weights!
Just click on the link ( I snipped the original email to make it easier to find). You can go to Fabric.com and subscribe to their email announcements to get them directly. At 01:11 PM 3/19/2008, you wrote: I'm interested. How much is it by the yard or by the bolt? I need one bolt of the light weight linen. Costumes to make for upcoming events. i loved the linen chemise I made last year. Light and kept me cooler than I thought. PLEASE let us know how to get in on this deal!!!Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine[snip]Hey, with this discount - you can even have linen as your wall paper. These utmost necessary fabrics, in the basic weights necessary to complete most projects - will be on sale only for this week until Sunday March 23. http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=C4tymm=1dKkRdW0h7kVyHb=9_Nk qVWZBPc26J6N_5kh0AEnter here to go directly to the discounted bolts and save 10%! Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Fwd: special offers on new and forthcoming titles in Medieval Studies from DBBC
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 13:07:39 -0700 (GMT-07:00) From: Ian Stevens [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: special offers on new and forthcoming titles in Medieval Studies from DBBC Dear Joan Jurancich, We are promoting a number of new and forthcoming titles in Medieval Studies on a couple of new leaflets. The first focuses on Viking studies as several of our partner publishers have announced interesting new titles and we have recently started handling books from Roskilde's Viking Ship Museum. This leaflet can be accessed by following this link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/pdfs/leaflets/Vikings.pdf The second leaflet draws together information on new, recent and forthcoming titles on Medieval Art and Illumnated Manuscripts. Included are books from Brepols/Harvey Miller, Peeters, Hirmer, Reichert and Australia's Macmillan Art Publishing. To view this leaflet, follow this link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/pdfs/leaflets/MedArtMS.pdf Both leaflets contain offer prices and the offers are good through May 15th (Vikings) or April 30th (Medieval Art and Manuscripts). Simply quote the reference code for each leaflet when ordering to secure the offer price. I hope you enjoy the selections and we will look forward to dealing with your orders. With regards, Ian Stevens The David Brown Book Company Tel: 1-800-791-9354 I thought that members of this list might be interested in these new book leaflets. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] maker's labels in clothing
At 05:28 PM 2/26/2008, you wrote: Has anyone researched when dressmakers/tailors first starting putting labels in their goods? In particular I'm interested in the mid 19th century. I know House of Worth was marking their goods by the 1890's but I'm hoping for something earlier. Beth Chamberlain I have the book Fabric of Society: A Century of People and their Clothes 1770-1870 by Jane Tozer Sarah Levitt. On pages 111-112 there are pictures of labels in shoes and hats from the late 18th century. On page 116 there is an illustration of a label in a man's stock, c. 1840. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] A little help, please.
At 10:55 AM 2/17/2008, you wrote: Hi all, Quick question but I am not understanding something from the 16th century that I think is an abbreviation or something similar. di Here are two sentences that use it. the foreparte of the George of Dyamountes the Mayle of the curates and Rivet of the same of Siluer half gilte with a sworde in his hand of gold a lozenged Dyamounte like a sheelde and a Dragon of gold weying together iij oz di di quarter a little George of gold to hang at a Collar of garters weying one ounce quarter di Thanks for any help with this. Kimiko It's an abbreviation for dimidio, or half. In this case , di di quarter is 5/8 ounce (one half ounce plus one half of one half ounce). The quarter di is 3/8 ounce (one quarter ounce plus one half of one quarter ounce). There is a table of measures in QEWU on page 242 that gives the meanings of all these abbreviations. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Fwd: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Elegant Black Cotton Velveteen
I just had to forward this to the lists. I hope that all the links come through alright. Happy shopping! Joan Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 08:14:41 -0500 (EST) From: Fabric.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Fabric.com: Deal of the Day - Elegant Black Cotton Velveteen This message contains graphics. If you do not see the graphics, http://sdm3.rm04.net/servlet/MailView?ms=MTQ0NzAzOQS2r=Njg0Njk0NTAxMQS2j=NDQyNjAwOTcS1mt=1click here to view. To ensure receipt of our e-mails, please add mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] to your Contacts or Address Book. Thank you! This message was sent to [EMAIL PROTECTED] [] Apparel Fashion Fabric Quilting Fabric Home Decor Fabric Notions Patterns CLEARANCE Fabric.com Deal of the Day Wednesday 02/06/08 25% Off Elegant Black Cotton Velveteen Special pricing now through midnight Eastern Time [] Sale Price: $8.99 yd --- Regular Price: $11.98 yd Compare at: $16.98 yd Tailored, yet well-behaved, cotton velveteen is an amazingly versatile fabric. Pair it with denim, corduroy or twill for a casual day look. Combine it with satin, silk and furs for an elegant evening look. It also functions well in the home as drapes, toss pillows, bedding and tabletop accents. 100% Cotton, 45 wide. Shop Now [] [] [] Yardage Charts [] Fabric Glossary [] ProjectsPrivacy Policy Thank you for agreeing to receive promotional and product-related email from Fabric.com To keep the Fabric.com emails coming, please add mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] to your address book or safe list now. You have received this promotional email because you asked for information about Fabric.com or because you are a customer. To edit your email preferences or to unsubscribe, please click here You may also be removed from this list by calling 1-888-455-2940, or emailing your request to mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Customer Care Due to limited quantities of merchandise, extremely popular items mentioned in this newsletter may sell out. Featured items were available at the time of this writing. We apologize in advance for any inconvenience. Fabric.com 2151 Northwest Parkway, Suite 500, Marietta, GA 30067 For all other customer service needs: 1-888-455-2940 (8.30 a.m. to 5.30 p.m. ET Monday through Friday) ©2004 Fabric.com. All rights reserved. [] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
