Re: [h-cost] New Topic: Is this a Postmortem Photo
Little Herbert is still very much alive in this image. The whole thing about having the departed standing in an image being held up by a stand is myth. Those head stands are to help you keep still and would never support full body weight. The lack of light of irises is a trick of photography methods of the time in which blues can photograph as white. The shoeless thing could be as simple as a mom picking her battles with a screaming unhappy child who had shoes he didn't like and that was how he agreed to sit still for the image. It is common to see sashes at the dropped waist on girls dresses at this time. Perhaps the belt is the masculine variation. It is still a dress indicating that he wasn't potty trained yet. I could believe this was his last picture. If he was born in 1909 he looks to be about 3 in this image so the dates would be right for his death in 1912. Maggie Koenig Sent from my iPhone On Jan 15, 2015, at 5:23 AM, Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.com wrote: This photo was produced from my grandma's original cabinet card. My mom had a negative pulled from it in 1960. I have another original cabinet card of this same photo that was given to me by my grand aunt. Mine has been broken in half. I have repaired it and back together with museum archival tape on backside. Both originals had a cross drawn in pen above my little Uncle Herbert's head. I will scan my original tomorrow. I think you will be see a little more in its original color. Also note that his two sisters have a little sprig of flowers in their hands. Herbert is holding only a small flower. My grandma had lots of professional photos made of her children when they were little. There are baby/infant photos of all the children but Herbert. Grandma gave all of her photos to my mom to copy and there is only this one photo of Herbert. When my grand aunt gave me the other original photo, I asked why the cross was drawn little Herbert's head. She said, This was his last photo, so they drew a cross over his head. Both photos have a penned ink cross drawn above his head. Has anyone else seen this drawn cross above a deceased person's head before in a photo? FYI, my grandmother was pregnant when Herbert died. Two days later, she gave birth to another son. She made sure there were lots of photos taken of her new son. Below is little Herbert's obit...you might need a hankie for this... In Memoriam: Herbert Clayton Dunlap The Angel of Death has visited another home and taken from our midst a dear little boy. Little Herbert Clayton Dunlap, son of Mr. and Mrs. W.L. [Willshire] Dunlap, died Sept. 15, 1912, after a brief illness of only a few days. Herbert was born March 23, 1909. During his brief lifetime, little Herbert had endeared himself to all those who knew him by his sweet sunny disposition. We sympathize deeply with Mr. and Mrs. Dunlap in their sorrow. The funeral was conducted by Rev. W.J. Nelson, pastor of the First Baptist Church [Rock Hill, SC.] We had a little treasure once, He was our joy and pride. We loved him, ah! perhaps too well. For soon he slept and died, All is dark within our dwelling, Lonely our hearts today, For the one we loved so dearly, Has forever passed away. Penny Ladnier, Owner The Costume Gallery Websites, www.costumegallery.com Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/TheCostumeGallery -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Penny Ladnier Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2015 1:07 AM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: [h-cost] New Topic: Is this a Postmortem Photo I'll open a can of worms. I have a photo of my Dad and his siblings from 1912 http://www.costumegallery.com/kids2.jpg . The little boy in this front is he postmortem or handicapped. He passed away in 1912. I have always thought the belt around him was odd and being shoeless. My Dad told me once that his mother was very strict and would not allow them to go around barefooted. Last week I was dusting the photo's frame and gave it a hard look and thought it might be postmortem. Penny Ladnier, Owner The Costume Gallery Websites, www.costumegallery.com Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/TheCostumeGallery ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?
For what it's worth my husband has no idea what a cami even is. Brian Sent from my iPhone On Jan 6, 2014, at 12:45 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote: Thanks, everybody! It's for fiction. Guy normally clueless trying to describe woman who catches his eye. Would a guy know the name of said garment!? He's more likely to know what's in it than what it's called :) == Marjorie Wilser On Jan 6, 2014, at 2:36 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: I actually have one. Bought a decent dress at a thrift store for summer wear, but it is just a little low in front, so I bought one of the knit garments with spaghetti straps. It has a shelf bra, too--remember those from the '70s? And yes, my much younger co-workers call it a cami. BTW, it is also VERY long, so one could wear it with the extremely low-slung pants that still seem to be in vogue. That is one style that could go away, IMHO. Hard for us mature women to find pants that sit decently at the waist. Ann Wass In a message dated 1/6/2014 2:06:25 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, sfsh...@gmail.com writes: LOL. This is definitely an age thing, I think. I have two daughters, ages 18 and 21. For years they've been calling that garment a cami or a camisole and it is not an undergarment, though it is often worn as a layer, but a layer that is exposed, either partly or entirely. And, in hot weather, it is worn alone. Neither of my daughters will wear a tank top, with cut-on shoulders. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] mildew stains
White vinegar helps to kill mold. Maggie Koenig Sent from my iPhone On Oct 29, 2013, at 1:13 PM, Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.com wrote: Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get mildew stains out of white cotton? I have a favorite white cotton (or maybe linen and cotton) Victorian repro. blouse that was left damp and now it's mildew stained. Makes me so sad. Katy -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Boning and corsets for musicians
I've costumed singers and dancers before and if you take their chest measurements with them at rest and them at a full breath there can be a rather large difference. Their corsets are likely made for a resting breath measurement so it is restricting them from taking as deep a breath as they are used to when they play. Actual performers in the Victorian era were corseted their entire lives and were trained to get the needed deep breaths while corseted. What you will need to do is either find a dress style that can work without the corset or you will want to create a corset that incorporates elastic panels and/or elastic instead of a woven lacing string. The elastic will stretch as they breath and move allowing them their full range. Maggie Koenig Sent from my iPhone On Oct 21, 2013, at 1:58 AM, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden aylwe...@gmail.com wrote: I get told by musicians that they can't breathe - wind players and singers can't get enough breath. Cheers, Aylwen On 21 October 2013 16:42, Kim Baird kba...@cableone.net wrote: It's perfectly possible to sit in a Victorian corset. Victorians did it all the time. It does have to fit correctly, however. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Aylwen Gardiner-Garden Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 11:55 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Boning and corsets for musicians I'm thinking about Victorian fashion here. Are there any pictures of women sitting down playing music? I've seen women corsetted when standing up playing the violin, but how did they manage playing the piano? Or are my musicians complaining too much? I'm right at the beginning in my research so far. Many thanks, Aylwen On 21 October 2013 15:48, Elizabeth Jones elizabethrjones2...@gmail.comwrote: Hi Aylwen, What have you tried so far? If we know what's already been tried there won't need to be any re-inventing of the wheel. For anything pre-1600 you are fairly safe to skip boning for anyone who isn't extremely high fashion (and musicians paid to perform for a ball definitely weren't high fashion) Elizabeth On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 2:33 PM, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden aylwe...@gmail.com wrote: Dear Friends Our dance group prides itself on wearing historically correct gowns and undergarments for our dance performances, but it is not comfortable for our pianist and other musicians. I am exploring ways I can bone the bodices of the gowns and still give sitting-down musicians breathing space - but still have the garments look close-to-accurate. Can anyone offer me any advice? We costume from 1450 through to 1900 - all styles along the way. Many thanks, Aylwen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- *Aylwen Gardiner-Garden* * * * * *Jane Austen Festival Australia http://www.janeaustenfestival.com.au * *Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/ * *John Gardiner-Garden's Historic Dance book serieshttp://www.lulu.com/spotlight/earthlydelights * ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- *Aylwen Gardiner-Garden* * * * * *Jane Austen Festival Australia http://www.janeaustenfestival.com.au * *Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academyhttp://www.earthlydelights.com.au/ * *John Gardiner-Garden's Historic Dance book serieshttp://www.lulu.com/spotlight/earthlydelights * ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] measurement chart
I have the measurement chart I got used to using that was developed for theatre use. It pretty much has everything on it you may need kept on file for actors. I don't know how to send files over the list so feel free to e-mail be off list and I can send you the doc file. Maggie Koenig Gettysburg, PA -Original Message- From: Marjorie wilser the3t...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Sun, Sep 15, 2013 9:36 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] measurement chart here's one: http://www.amspecinc.com/fitting/index.html I did Google advanced search: torso, and added in g*exact phrase* fill in your measurements But better result when I removed torso from the equation and used only the exact phrase: http://www.timeaftertimedesigns.com/Measurement%20Chart%20for%20Women.pdf There are other results, lots of them, but the 2nd is the best I found in a rather brief effort. ==Marjorie Sent from my amazing iPad On Sep 15, 2013, at 5:27 PM, humbugfo...@att.net wrote: I am going to be making a Regency outfit for a friend who lives on the other side of the country. Since there won't be any chance to fit it, I need to get the most exhaustive set of measurements possible. Can any suggest a site that has a fill-in measurement chart that is really detailed, that I can send her? Like, not just bust and waist measurement, but bust and then under-bust, upper arm circumference, side-seam (underarm to waist), shoulder to shoulder across the back, and so on. The sort of measurements you'd need to construct a detailed garment with. I've tried searching but apparently I'm not using the right search terms. I keep getting charts with sizing on them, not blanks to be filled in. Thanks! Julie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] about bath towels...
Bed bath and beyond has a rather large range towels. Sent from my iPhone On Sep 14, 2013, at 6:25 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: I used to like Restoration Hardware's towels, but I haven't bought any in a while so don't know if the quality is still what it was 10 years ago. Ann Wass In a message dated 9/14/2013 4:37:29 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, chim...@ravensgard.org writes: Thanks all for the responses about those velvet terms; much appreciated. NOW... we need to replace some bath towels. BUT! where do YOU buy decent bath towels these days? JCPenney used to be our go-to for almost all bed bath linens, but not so much these days. They appear to be suffering the breakdown in quality that so many textiles are. (You can't get PermaPrest bed sheets anymore, sigh, although I still have a few inherited from my mother, and my own student housekeeping. I suppose that one is OK, apparently the permaprest process was an environmental horror that even in the olden days of 30+ years ago became unsupportable.) But bath towels, now! I have remnants of a couple of bath sheets that I made into a house-robe for Mr. Shoulders, possibly 30 years ago. This 100% cotton fabric is STILL full-surfaced and soft as satin! It's cut into ca. 12 squares and the sides do not ravel or produce bits in the wash. JCP is certainly not carrying this quality of towelling these days, or for the past decade at least. Most of the older towels we have (from various sources) seem to last about 3 years before they go so thin that they dry like sandpaper, OR start to have the seamed selvages rip out, OR start to tear away at the flat-weave sections... So, please! Where do YOU-all buy or order on-line, what brand(s), of bath towels that STAY full and soft and in one piece, these days? Thanks much! chimene et al ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Children's fashions.
Something I've been pondering. In what era/decade/year/location/something else do you consider there to be a development of a separate fashion for children. By children I mean potty trained age and over. In the early 19th century there seemed to be a separate fashion for boys but not girls with the so called skeleton suit. But by the mid19th century they did a brief stint in pants and tunic then it was on to miniature adult styles. For girls I start seeing the separate styles by the 1840s and they were definitely there by the 1860s. However, I severely lack knowledge of earlier periods. Am I just not seeing the kids styles? It also strikes me that we are moving back to kids wearing miniature adult styles. Maggie Koenig Sent from my iPhone ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)
Fran, at this point I think you are just being downright rude. Someone said something you disagree with and instead of being open to a discussion about preservation vs. use you are just telling us all to go away. So, please either contribute while respecting the opinions of others or stop posting on the subject. Maggie Koenig Sent from my iPhone On Mar 30, 2013, at 2:35 AM, Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com wrote: I fail to see how it's any of your business. Fran On 3/29/2013 10:45 PM, Marjorie Wilser wrote: Dear Isabella, Likewise. I am sure. Brava! for saying so out loud. == Marjorie Wilser On Mar 29, 2013, at 1:25 PM, . . wrote: I am HORRIFIED at the idea of using an antique piece of our cultural history as something to wear; let alone cut it and dye it! Would you buy a slightly rundown Victorian house and tear it up to sell off the pieces and remake it into a modern home? Of course not! Most countries now have regulations to protect these homes as part of our cultural heritage. It's sad that we do not have similar laws to protect against the destruction of antiquities as is being described here. I'm completly revolted at the idea of tearing up a garmet that is not shreaded, not in rags, just to make a t-tunic? You can make a t-tunic out of good old linen for far less than $40 if watch for coupons and stash reduction sales. There is no reason whatsoever to destroy a piece of history just to get something to wear. -Isabella ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)
Fran, I think what is being asked is are there antique items of any kind that you won't mess with. For example, my mom's antique cups and saucers that she collected were never used. However, we did use the antique depression glass that she collected on a daily basis. Personally, I won't take apart a textile to use its components. However I will use vintage ribbon and trims on reproduction items that won't get heavy use. I don't wear vintage clothing at all which is fine since I'm a little fluffy for it. Maggie Koenig. Sent from my iPhone On Mar 29, 2013, at 9:49 PM, Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com wrote: Absolutely no item that belongs to anyone else is sacred to me. It's not my business to decide that for other people. My collection and my wardrobe freely overlap. I bought everything I own with the possibility of wearing it someday, even if only on rare occasions. Otherwise I would not enjoy it. I don't have room to display clothes and for me there's no point in acquiring things that just sit around in a closet or chest for decades. What I wear and don't wear changes over time, depending on the occasions I have to wear things and on whatever vintage styles may currently be in fashion. I have pulled out garments I wasn't wearing to dye or to cut up. I've put away other garments, most merely because I currently have no occasion to wear them. It's whatever I need and want at the moment. I don't make a permanent decision never to wear or alter anything. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 3/29/2013 6:36 PM, Sybella wrote: Oh no...please don't feel I'm putting you in the place to defend yourself. I'm not judging you, Fran. I agree that people can do what they want with what they own but there are a few things that I wish people would leave alone. (The Wittelsbach Diamond, for example -- 400 years went down the toilet in 2011.) However, those that have responded to this thread seem to fall in different areas of a save or reuse spectrum. I find that interesting! Compared to Isabella's outrage, you're on the other extreme. I'm just curious if there is anything sacred to you, any certain item that should be saved, not reused or recycled. If so, what is it?? ;) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] bifurcated garments
I'm starting to wonder if our ancestors found the idea of women in pants as shocking as we think they did. I keep finding examples of women wearing them in the 19th century. The bloomer costume as reform dress, the bathing costumes, women in camping and hiking situations, women on the westward trek, female mine workers in Wales and other parts of Europe, utopian societies, fishwives in England and female acrobatic performers. I have a feeling the more people dig the more we will find out that there were just certain situations where no one found it out of place to see a woman in pants. I will grant you that in none of these cases are the women putting on a pair of men's pants. They are wearing pants with a unique style and construction. Maggie Koenig Sent from my iPhone On Mar 21, 2013, at 11:09 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote: I was astounded to learn that my very proper great-great grandmother and her daughters wore bifurcated garments on the Oregon Trail-- in 1852, very soon after Amelia Bloomer was named as their creator. One of the older daughters wrote about their experience and how the garments made walking the trail much easier than it would have been in skirts. The stuff of family legend. I suspect G-g-grandmother's prior pioneering experience influenced her to make a radical fashion choice for Oregon. In 1836 she and her husband had floated down the Allegheny on a raft; she mentions having to traipse around a portage through weeds and wet with wind, and how her skirts switched between her ankles, making walking almost impossible. G-g-grandmother was the wife of a preacher and Presbyterian missionary- I was amazed that such a character would make use of what was then rather a controversial garment. Perhaps she thought nobody she knew would see her! -- they and their large family had two wagons and did not join a train. == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= http://3toad.blogspot.com/ Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Civil War Frock Coat Pattern? my fav...
If you go to thesewingacademy.org and search for a gentleman by the name of Jim Ruley he drafts custom men's patterns from the 1860's using period tailoring manuals. For as complicated as a frock is the pattern he makes will take a lot of the fuss out of the pattern for you getting you one that is very nearly ready to cut, only a few fitting alterations will be needed. Maggie Koenig Emmitsburg, MD -Original Message- From: Melody Watts celticredhead2...@yahoo.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, Jun 18, 2012 7:47 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] Civil War Frock Coat Pattern? my fav... Since no one has answered this, I will get the ball rolling (so everyone who didn't answer can tell me what crap these patterns are,cause they are Big 3 patterns ) but I have used this one with success, McCalls M6143. It is a multi size pattern for kids and adults,has 4 American Heros in it Uncle Sam,Statue of Liberty, Tom Jefferson and Abe Lincoln The Abe Lincoln pattern is a simple to put together Frock type coat ,that turns out quite well. I used this to make my then Teenage son a Black Frock coat as featured on the main characters in the 1990's movie Tombstone. I used a havy canvas /slubby linen for a more Cowboy ,less Townie look. He still has it ,and he's 35. You can use better material,line it and add fancy buttons, It is simple and not compliccated to use. McCalls's also offeres a mens Civil war Officers Jacket M4745. Has 2 vaariations. Now, let the opionions begin... melody From: aqua...@patriot.net aqua...@patriot.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2012 11:57 AM Subject: [h-cost] Civil War Frock Coat Pattern? Hello, A friend just asked me, can anyone recommend a pattern for an American Civil War era frock coat? Thank you! -Carol ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] (no subject)
I think sometimes we try to apply too much they did this because to fashion. Can't something be worn because its thought to be becoming and fashionable in its time? Just look at how necklines go up and down. Why is it OK to have an open neckline in 1500 but not in 1600? Why do skirts go from being OK to show ankles in the 1830's to dresses being floor length again in the 1860's? Why wear tall cone shaped hats in the 1400's? Why the tall hairstyles in the 1700's? Why the large drum shape skirts in the 1600's and a bustle shape in the late 19th century. Its simply all because the fashions changed. People tweeked what was being worn until it got to the point where it looked like something else. Perhaps something was being done and the daring new fashion was to do it the opposite way. Maggie Halberg -Original Message- From: Beteena Paradise bete...@mostlymedieval.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Fri, Mar 23, 2012 6:49 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] (no subject) 1 Corinthians has a passage that says that if a woman doesn't cover her head, her hair should be cut off. And if she doesn't want to have her hair cut off, then she should cover her head. But I always thought that the grown woman was required to cover her head because her hair would be arousing to men. Teena From: Cin cinbar...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Friday, March 23, 2012 2:41 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] (no subject) Huh, I was under the impression that the covered head (regardless of location or specific era) was from something in Leviticus. You'll have to find someone more aware of things Biblical than I am for further info. In any case, and I havent read the article, linking a fashion trend to what everybody knows sounds like a stretch. I have no evidence or inclination towards of aural insemination, just a hunch that it's a quaint old wives tale written down oft repeated cuz it's so marvelously silly. I'm off to think Ragtime era thoughts. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Fri, Mar 23, 2012 at 11:03 AM, Laurie Taylor mazarineblu...@gmail.com wrote: Greetings all, I've been mulling this bit of trivia around in my head for the longest time. I think I need to share it and see if any of you know of any support or documentation for this information. Most Unusual Concession to Modesty: The earliest Christians believed that the Virgin Mary was impregnated through her ear and that other women as well had used their ears as reproductive organs. For that reason, an exposed female ear was considered no less an outrage than an exposed thigh, and a woman would not appear in public unless clad in a tight-fitting wimple. Felton, Bruce, and Mark Fowler. Part II, Behavior. The Best, Worst, and Most Unusual: Noteworthy Achievements, Events, Feats and Blunders of Every Conceivable Kind. New York: Galahad, 1994. 428. Print. So, the wimple had to develop for some reason. Is this reason believable? Documentable? Are there any other reasons that would be more legitimate based on available documentation? Laurie Taylor Phoenix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Pattern Suggestions
I really like the pattern put out by the State Historical Society of Wisconsin. You get the bodice, skirt and overskirt in the same pattern. It makes up really easily and comes with both a faster, modern method and a period method in the instructions. Maggie Halberg -Original Message- From: seamstrix seamst...@juno.com To: h-costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, Feb 9, 2012 11:09 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern Suggestions Personally, I swear by Truly Victorian Patterns. I have made a number of them and they have always gone together easily and fit beautifully. They aren't as cheap as the Big Ones, but they are worth every penny (and they aren't that expensive either). http://www.trulyvictorian.com/ Just a satisfied customer! Karen -- Original Message -- From: annbw...@aol.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Pattern Suggestions Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2012 11:00:03 -0500 (EST) Okay, folks, I may be getting a Steampunk urge, since a big event is right up the road in May. I long ago wanted to do an 1870s bustle style and this seems like a good opportunity. My question is, what pattern(s) do you all recommend for an 1870s era bustle day outfit? I'm thinking bodice with high neck and 3/4 sleeves and underskirt with draped overskirt. I do have the skill to make some minor changes to a pattern-could certainly modify the sleeve, for instance--but want something that I wouldn't need to do a lot to, as time is of the essence. Also not stuck on 100% authentic to the period--that is one of the appeals of Steampunk! I was hoping the Big Two had something that I could just pick up at the fabric store and run with, but I didn't see anything suitable there. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 60-Year-Old Mom Looks 27 Mom Reveals Free Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4f33ef96965e6109b88fst01duc ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Corset class recommendations
I went to school for costume production and we had several classes where we had to make garments for other people. In some cases we had make the item for ourselves in which case we paid for the materials. In the tailoring class we had to make the men's suit jacket for a guy (I think the guys were allowed to make their own) so we had to find the guy and buy the materials. In some cases we could choose to make the item for ourselves in which case we bought materials. However, if we wanted to the department would cover materials and the item would be made to fit one of the actors/actresses in the department and the item would then go into stock. So I would say give the student the option of making it to fit a friend (they would then get the friend to make for the materials) or to make just a basic standard item to keep sell or give away at their discretion. Does the university have a theatre program that keeps costume stock? Maggie Halberg -Original Message- From: Galadriel galadrielfi...@yahoo.com To: h-costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, Feb 7, 2012 9:10 pm Subject: [h-cost] Corset class recommendations Hi, all. I agreed to teach a class at the local university while the regular teacher is on sabbatical. We're doing corsets in spring and the way the class has been set up in the past, the students pay a course fee for supplies, buy their own fabric, and then get to make corsets they can take home with them. So the problem is that I have 2 male students. I haven't discussed it with them but I was almost hoping they'd want to go ahead and make male corsets. I thought it would be interesting to watch the process. But if they don't want to do it, I have a problem. Additionally, I have a female student who dresses solely in male clothes and has expressed that she doesn't want to make a corset for herself. Is there anything anyone can think of that will teach the same principles (patterning and fitting a shaping garment, how to make a structured garment) without being a corset, per se? I'm kind of at a loss. The female student suggested boned gaiters but I didn't think that was challenging enough, pattern-wise. Any awesome brainstorms would be appreciated! --Rachel, back to lurking ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Jean Hunnisett regency stays pattern
I've not used that specific pattern but I have used several others. When scaled up to full size they run in the small end of sizing. She was generally making patterns for actresses who run towards the petite end of things. Maggie H. -Original Message- From: Aylwen Gardiner-Garden aylwe...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, Jan 23, 2012 7:32 pm Subject: [h-cost] Jean Hunnisett regency stays pattern Has anyone here made this pattern up? I was wondering what the expected bust / waist / hip measurements were. Many thanks, Aylwen Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy www.earthlydelights.com.au http://edhda.eventbrite.com http://aylwen.blogspot.com http://www.janeaustenfestival.com.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] doll costuming
If you want to do adult female proportions doing things for half scale dress forms is a lot of fun. They don't have arms, heads or legs but they are a lot of fun to play with and have the added bonus of being able to use scaled down versions of patterns you already have and use (and those you've always wanted to play with) as opposed to having to seek out specific doll patterns. Half Scale forms can be found online from Truly Victorian Patterns, allbrands.com and from any of the major dress form makers. Maggie Halberg -Original Message- From: Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, Dec 12, 2011 1:24 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] doll costuming This website sells their patterns for doll's costumes: www.agesdesigns.com/ I've seen her display room (she is making up all the patterns for a display) and it is spectacular. Katy On Mon, Dec 12, 2011 at 12:56 PM, cw15147-hcos...@yahoo.com cw15147-hcos...@yahoo.com wrote: Hi Emily, When I sewed doll clothes (which I don't so much anymore), I did all the patterning from scratch (because I wanted to). I've run across various doll clothing-related things, though, I two come to mind. First, if you intend to sew for the Barbie-size/style figure, then there are actually commercial patterns available, including from one or more of the Big 3...er, 2, I guess. I vaguely recall that one of them did the Gone With The Wind curtain dress, and other hoop-era dresses. Second, on a visit to Lacis in Berkeley I picked up these wonderful Victorian dress patterns for a doll, but in they included the pattern for the doll herself. I'm not quite sure where I put these patterns, but they're great, very detailed. If you could narrow down what type of doll you want to sew for, that would be helpful. They range in size an shape as much (or maybe more) than people do, and each style of doll comes with a whole range of resources. From: Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 10:23 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] doll costuming Hi Claudine, Websites, books, patterns, etc. that you've found useful. I'm more interested in making clothing for an existing doll than in making the doll itself, and I'd prefer the kind of doll that's proportioned as an adult woman. I've read the book Sewing Victorian Doll Clothes: Authentic Costumes from Museum Collections, by Michelle Hamilton, and found it very interesting. Thanks! Emily On 12/10/2011 10:29 AM, cw15147-hcos...@yahoo.com wrote: Hi Emily, I've done some doll costuming. What kind of resources are you looking for? Claudine From: Emily Gilbertemchantm...@gmail.com To: Historical Costumeh-cost...@indra.com Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 8:15 AM Subject: [h-cost] doll costuming I know some people on this list do doll costuming as well as the full-sized version. Can you recommend any good resources for the curious novice? Emily ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] (no subject)
http://najaadesigns.com/friend.php?html120 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] (no subject)
I do apologize for the Spam e-mail ladies. I have no idea what happened. Maggie -Original Message- From: Maggie Halberg hhalb94...@aol.com To: favorsjdinsc favorsjdi...@comcast.net; nannie161110 nannie161...@mail.myactv.net; garoecker garoec...@yahoo.com; h-costume h-cost...@indra.com; hhalb94479 hhalb94...@aol.com Sent: Wed, Sep 28, 2011 11:45 pm http://najaadesigns.com/friend.php?html120 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] split drawers
You'll find drawers starting to creep into women's clothing starting in the 1840's and 50's. They really really started to become common when women started to wear cage crinolines in the later 1850's. With crinoline there were suddenly not as many layers right next to the body (nothing but the chemise and a single petticoat) and women probably started wearing them for modesty and comfort. By the time the crinoline fell from fashion they had become typical and women just continued to wear them. Maggie Halberg -Original Message- From: WorkroomButtons.com westvillagedrap...@yahoo.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wed, Sep 14, 2011 4:36 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] split drawers Okay, dumb question, but... why did they need drawers at all? Chemise, layers of petticoats, and long skirts -- everything totally obscured, so why bother with drawers? Dede O'Hair --- On Wed, 9/14/11, Kim Baird kba...@cableone.net wrote: Victorian women NEEDED split drawers. They wore a long chemise over the top of the drawers, and a corset laced up tightly on top of that, so the only way to drop a penny was to have the drawers split. You just couldn't get at them to pull them down from the waist. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1845 button closure -- front or back?
Drawers didn't get closed up in the crutch seam until very late into the 19th if not into the 20th century. Maggie Halberg -Original Message- From: WorkroomButtons.com westvillagedrap...@yahoo.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Fri, Aug 12, 2011 11:34 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1845 button closure -- front or back? So far, we have found one pair of split drawers in the vast attic-sized pile... Really! That's interesting. I've seen dozens but they are all kinda early. The seam gets sewn up I'd say (guess really) by the 1860's and by the 1880's you have combos... a bodice part and the legs part in one. But I'm no expert on this subject. --- Yup -- one pair, and clearly worn by a child (and very heavily mended). This family kept everything, so... why no drawers from this period? Hmm... -Dede ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Scaled drawings of original garments
I'm teaching a workshop on how to scale up patterns of original garments that have been drawn out such as the ones you see from Janet Arnold. I'm trying to compile a lit of sources for these patterns. Other than the usual suspects of Janet Arnold and Jean Hunnisette does anyone have any sources for these types of patterns? Maggie Halberg -Original Message- From: Catherine Olanich Raymond ca...@thyrsus.com To: h-costume h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Mon, Aug 8, 2011 7:46 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] Where is everyone hanging out these days? On 08/08/2011 01:08 AM, penn...@costumegallery.com wrote: So here are the questions...how did you find the h-costume email list? And what year did you join? It will be really interesting how the newbies have found it. I found the H-costume list website by searching the web shortly after I got a real browser (i.e., one that could handle graphics well) in 2001, and that's when I signed up. -- Cathy Raymond ca...@thyrsus.com Beware how you take away hope from another human being. --Oliver Wendell Holmes ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Scaled drawings of original garments
Thanks Ladies! I'm trying to stick to modern copies of original garments. Getting stuff out of period sources is outside of the scope of what I want to cover in this workshop. I only have three hours so I need to use them wisely. Thanks, Maggie Halberg -Original Message- From: R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, Aug 8, 2011 4:23 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] Scaled drawings of original garments A FG fan club member:? Thanks Fran for your carefully scaled patterns.? I have used them successfully for myself and for my Costumes in Miniature? The scale works both ways! Kathleen -Original Message- From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com Sent 8/8/2011 3:46:49 PM To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Scaled drawings of original garments On 8/8/2011 11:02 AM, Carol Kocian wrote: Blanche Payne has scale drawings of patterns. Her History of Costume book is where I first started back in college. :-) Me too, but the scaled diagrams are only in the first edition. I put scaled diagrams in my books Reconstruction Era Fashions, and both volumes of Fashions of the Gilded Age. Other books with scaled diagrams include: Baumgarten, Linda and John Watson. /Costume Close-Up: Clothing Construction and Pattern 1750-1790./ New York: Costume Fashion Press, 1999. Burnham, Dorothy K. /Cut My Cote./ Toronto: Royal Ontario Museum, 1973. Burnston, Sharon Ann./Fitting Proper: 18th-Century Clothing from the Collection of the Chester County Historical Society. /Texarkana: Scurlock Publishing Co., 1998. Countryman, Ruth S. and Elizabeth Weiss Hopper. /Women's Wear of the 1920's./ Studio City: Players Press, 1998. Countryman, Ruth S. and Elizabeth Weiss Hopper. /Women's Wear of the 1930's./ Studio City: Players Press, 2001. Gehret, Ellen J. /Rural Pennsylvania Clothing./ York: Liberty Cap Books, 1976. Wright, Merideth. /Put on Thy Beautiful Garments: Rural New England Clothing, 1783--1800./ East Montpelier: The Clothes Press, 1990.Reprinted by Dover Publications as/Everyday Dress of Rural America, 1783--1800./ Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.comwww.facebook.com/LavoltaPress ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Shoe glue
Barge also contains known carcinogens. Its amazingly wonderful stuff but *do* use it with very good ventilation and a face mask. You should be able to get it through Tandy Leather. Also check with local leather apparel shops (biker wear stuff), places that do leather uphostry or saddle shops to see if they would be able to do the gluing for you. Maggie Halberg -Original Message- From: Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, May 12, 2011 3:08 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] Shoe glue Barge is wonderful with a caveat. My husband repaired his heavy court ren fair boots several years ago and the place where he used the Barge still is going strong. The problem with Barge is that it can be dangerous if you don't use it outside in good ventilation - it causes woozy. It's better than Shoe Goo but hard to find as many stores have pulled it off their shelves. LynnD On Thu, May 12, 2011 at 11:55 AM, otsisto otsi...@socket.net wrote: I would recommend the shoe repair offered first since the boots are 50 years old and you don't have that much experience with shoe repair. If budget doesn't allow it, then the Shoe Goo which can be found at most Wal-Marts or the like stores. I have not used the Barge glue as I have not seen it and several shoe repair shops recommended the shoe goo which I have had good results. Note: first time use of the shoe goo can be a bit messy. :) De -Original Message- I have a gorgeous pair of child's cowboy boots that are at least 50 years old, but the upper is separating from the sole at the heel. A good 3 inches is no longer attached. A shoemaker is not within a manageable distance for me. Would I be successful tackling this myself? If so, what sort of glue do I need to look for? Thanks for any advice. Siobhan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Washing silk organza
It might lose a bit of body but it shouldn't get limp. Silk organza is made from silk fibers that have been very tightly twisted which is where the stiffness comes from. Maggie H. -Original Message- From: Elizabeth Walpole elizabeth.r.walp...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, Apr 5, 2011 6:21 am Subject: [h-cost] Washing silk organza Hi everyone, A quick question while I'm in the planning stages of this outfit... Does silk organza go limp when you wash it like taffeta does? My partner insists that his garb has to be washable but he doesn't want synthetics and the style of garb he wants really needs something with body. I was hoping that if I bought taffeta and interfaced it with organza I could get back some of the stiffness that taffeta has when it's new. Thanks, Elizabeth -- -- Elizabeth Walpole http://magpiecostumer.wordpress.com/ http://magpiecostumer.110mb.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Corset patterns and research questions
Second, the little research I've done so far indicates that during the Victorian eras, there were many corset patterns that used gores - yet many of the current commercial patterns focus on those without. Is there a reason for this that anyone might be aware of? Is it easier to fit without gores? Are gored patterns more difficult to make up? Any help in this direction is also a huge plus! As one member already pointed out the Victorian era ran from 1837 until 1901. A lot of fashion changed happened in those 60 years and therefore a lot of corset changes happened in that era. You can't really make a Victorian corset pattern without attaching some dates to it. You will also notice that as the era progressed corsets with gores fell out of popular usage based on looking at surviving originals. The reason for that is that as the era went on corsets overwhelmingly became factory made and in a factory setting gores are fiddly to put in so the shaped seam corsets became much more typical. They were simply faster to make in a factory setting and could be made cheaper for that reason. For your research though start looking at patents and fashion plates. Patents will only get you so far because they are ideas for corsets that may have never even made it into production. Fashion plates will get you further, but again, how likely is it that they were ever made. Your best bet is to start contacting museums about making arrangements to see the original corsets in their collections. Maggie Halberg -Original Message- From: Michael Deibert michaeljdeib...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, Mar 24, 2011 5:16 am Subject: [h-cost] Corset patterns and research questions Good morning everyone! I'm doing some research into corsets, and thought it best to start on here where many of you already have research. While I know a lot regarding corsets, I have two main focuses. The first is regarding corset patterns. I am hoping to develop a corset pattern and thus would like to be able to have as many corset patterns to base it off of as I can. While any corset pattern works, I am specifically hoping to find Victorian era corset patterns with hip and/or bust gores. From the many companies out there currently selling commercial pattersn, there are few who focus on corsets with gores. I am looking at trying to simplify the process of grading for different sizes, and believe that there might be a way to accomplish this with gored patterns. So if any of you have or know of patterns that I can get, please direct me in that direction! (Remember copyright laws and direct me to where I can find things, rather than just copy and paste.) Second, the little research I've done so far indicates that during the Victorian eras, there were many corset patterns that used gores - yet many of the current commercial patterns focus on those without. Is there a reason for this that anyone might be aware of? Is it easier to fit without gores? Are gored patterns more difficult to make up? Any help in this direction is also a huge plus! Please don't shy away, the more I can accumulate, the better my final pattern shall be once it is ready! Thanks in advance! Michael Deibert ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Patterns of time Ageless Patterns trim instructions
The trouble is that patterns printed in books and magazines may not have included all the pattern pieces. Its like sewing instructions that simply say make up in the usual manner. The period seamstress was expected to know how to make a garment and how to create the needed or extra pattern pieces from other information. Maggie Halberg -Original Message- From: Nancy Kiel nancy_k...@hotmail.com To: costume list h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, Mar 15, 2011 1:16 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns of time Ageless Patterns trim instructions But I think I could expect to find all the pattern pieces. Nancy Kiel nancy_k...@hotmail.com Never tease a weasel! This is very good advice. For the weasel will not like it And teasing isn't nice. Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 10:02:48 -0700 From: cw15147-hcos...@yahoo.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns of time Ageless Patterns trim instructions No. Ageless Patterns' patterns are scaled up and copied out of period fashion magazines, including the instructions, which aren't more than a paragraph, if even. One buys them in anticipation of doing a little to a lot of work to produce the garment. Don't expect instructions, grading, seam allowances, markings, etc. that you find in a modern pattern. Claudine - Original Message From: Nancy Kiel nancy_k...@hotmail.com To: costume list h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, March 15, 2011 9:56:06 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns of time Ageless Patterns trim instructions I haven't dealt with any of the patterns, but when I went to the website I was alarmed by the owner's comment I have done my best to include all pattern pieces. I would certainly hope so! Has she not made up these patterns herself to check that they work? Nancy Kiel nancy_k...@hotmail.com Never tease a weasel! This is very good advice. For the weasel will not like it And teasing isn't nice. From: otsi...@socket.net To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2011 16:17:44 -0500 Subject: [h-cost] Patterns of time Ageless Patterns trim instructions Today I received a pattern from Patterns of Time, this is the second time I received the pattern folded and stuffed in an envelope. They also, at least on the clothing patterns place their labels on top of print or design, instead of off to the side. I know they are capable of doing this as the Ageless Patterns of trim has the PT labels in at the bottom of the page and not at the top covering the design. With most of my patterns that are not the big 3 I place instructions in clear sleeves and put is all together in a three ring binder because unlike the big 3 I have to do extra work to get the pattern. Now I have to go and place the instructions between two heavy books and a flat surface. I wish I had read this before I ordered the trim Pamphlets http://www.gbacg.org/great-pattern-review/ageless.html They have pictures and a paragraph making an attempt at telling you what is done. No step by step instructions with diagrams. #1240, trim #5 appears to have piping but it is not in the instructions, instead they say the lining comes over the edge and hems on the outside. I thought I was getting a good deal at $3 ea. I probably would have ordered these patterns anyway but it would have been nice to know what I was really getting. Would have ordered the gown anyway as I would have to adjust to my size and adapt it. The trim on the other hand, I can borrow from a friend books with clearer instructions. De taking toe of the soap box ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] hoop storage
My hoops live in a large circular bag made from cheep walmart sheets and then are stored flat under the bed. Maggie Halberg Emmitsburg, MD -Original Message- From: Lisa A Ashton lis...@juno.com To: h-costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, Mar 14, 2011 3:12 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] hoop storage I hang my hoopskirts up (they stay pretty flat) on a large hanger in a large part of hte closet. OR else I have one or two them set up with outfits on the dress forms around the hosue. Yours in costuming, LisaA On Sun, 13 Mar 2011 18:01:46 -0700 Laurie Taylor costume...@mazarineblue.com writes: What I'd really like to know is how did Robert Heinlein make all the extra room in the car? But I'll settle for asking how do you all store your hoop skirts or hoped petticoats or what ever term you prefer? What can be safely done to them to minimize the space that they require? And if you've read Heinlein and know the answer to that question, I'm waiting Laurie T. Phoenix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] unknown Tudor words
LOL Late to the party... again! MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 1:31 PM, Regina Lawson reginalaws...@gmail.comwrote: Oh, Maggie!?! ;D ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Splendors of the Renaissance photos
They bought reproduction brocades at enormous expense but used whatever was lying around for the lace? Regardless of what lace they used, it isn't the same type of ruff as the one in the picture. MaggiRos On Wed, Jun 2, 2010 at 5:12 PM, monica spence monicaspe...@optonline.netwrote: This is a copy of the outfit worn by Federigo Gonzaga C. 1529. I think they used what they had for the lace. Monica -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Maggie Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 6:17 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Splendors of the Renaissance photos It doesn't look much like (what we can make out of) the ruff in the painting is a copy of. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Tue, Jun 1, 2010 at 8:08 PM, Elizabeth Walpole elizabeth.r.walp...@gmail.com wrote: On the topic of ruffs and cuffs, I wonder about the lace on this cuff http://www.flickr.com/photos/22977...@n08/2724203114/sizes/l/in/set-72157606 495042137/I'mhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/22977...@n08/2724203114/sizes/l/in/set-72157606%0A495042137/I%27m no lace expert, but embroidery on net, especially hexagonal/octagonal net that fine strikes me as more 18th century than 16th century. Has anybody got evidence that embroidery on such a fine bobbin made net is a period way to make lace in the later 16th century? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Splendors of the Renaissance photos
It doesn't look much like (what we can make out of) the ruff in the painting is a copy of. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Tue, Jun 1, 2010 at 8:08 PM, Elizabeth Walpole elizabeth.r.walp...@gmail.com wrote: On the topic of ruffs and cuffs, I wonder about the lace on this cuff http://www.flickr.com/photos/22977...@n08/2724203114/sizes/l/in/set-72157606495042137/I'm no lace expert, but embroidery on net, especially hexagonal/octagonal net that fine strikes me as more 18th century than 16th century. Has anybody got evidence that embroidery on such a fine bobbin made net is a period way to make lace in the later 16th century? -- Elizabeth Walpole http://magpiecostumer.wordpress.com/ http://magpiecostumer.110mb.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Splendors of the Renaissance photos
Totally breathtaking--except for the ruffs being all candy-ribbon/cartridge pleated instead of gathered and shaped. But otherwise, pretty impressive. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Sun, May 30, 2010 at 8:45 PM, Franchesca franchesca.ha...@gmail.comwrote: WOW! Those are some RUFFS! :) Franchesca -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of A. Thurman Sent: Sunday, May 30, 2010 7:32 PM To: Historic Costume List Subject: [h-cost] Splendors of the Renaissance photos My photo set on Flickr is here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/22977...@n08/sets/72157606495042137/ Please feel free to share the link. Allison T. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Frobisher Garb
The sleeves certainly have wrist openings, but both hands are painted wrist down, so you can't see them. They're there, I an assure you, on the inside of the wrist. At the top, they're lightly gathered into the armhole of the doublet underneath the leather jerkin. There's a pretty good image here http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Frobisher,Martin(Sir)01.jpg MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Wed, Apr 14, 2010 at 12:14 PM, REBECCA BURCH ctrvlyf...@sbcglobal.netwrote: I am, once again, making a Frobisher suit for Ansel to wear at Bristol. This time I want to approximate the outfit Sir Martin is wearing in the only full length portrait of him that I have seen. I need some input though on the jerkin he is wearing. I think that it looks to be made of leather, but I have no concept of how to make the sleeves gather like that. Or how you would get hands through such a tight sleeve with no visible opening. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. I have tried to included a link to the portrait, but can't seem to get it to work. Rebecca Burch Center Valley Farm Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades. --Anonymous Costumer-- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Blackwork pattern sought
Blackwork Archives? http://www.blackworkarchives.com/ MaggiRos http://www.blackworkarchives.com/ Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 at http://elizabethan.org Also available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Tue, Mar 23, 2010 at 11:12 AM, Julie jtkn...@jtknits.cts.com wrote: I hope this isn't off topic - it *is* for a costume. I'm hoping someone here can help me out. I've misplaced the pattern for some blackwork that's in progress. I've checked everything I have at home and haven't turned it up. The pattern is a counted blackwork with acorns, oak leaves and trellis work that repeats in mirror image/left/right. It's not in Gostelow and not in the Blackwork Archives. I'm pretty sure it was from an online source. Everything else I've checked is a broken link. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. Julie in Ramona ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Leine sleeve pattern
Publishing an article in something somewhere would do the trick. She wants credit, not to profit from it. Posting here doesn't hurt, but publishing is better. An illustrated article in the SCA's quarterly, Tournaments Illuminated, would be good--especially as it would (perhaps) finally put to rest the old article of mine that we now know to be so wrong. A Costume College class would be excellent! And yes, Reg, of course I'll help! MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Sat, Mar 6, 2010 at 4:58 PM, Nordtorp-Madson, Michelle A. manordto...@stthomas.edu wrote: Thanks for the clarification. I still think she should make an attempt to get something out that will give her some credit for this exceptional piece of work. From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Kimiko Small [sstormwa...@yahoo.com] Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2010 2:33 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Leine sleeve pattern Without getting into too long a discussion, her idea cannot be trademarked, as it is not an item that falls under that category (it is not a word, name, symbol or device). I also don't know if she can copyright it (don't think so), as in the US, a general fashion design cannot be copyrighted, unless she were to create a specific paper pattern design and copyright that specific paper design. She also may not be able to patent the idea... as there is cause under prior art (tho a few centuries old prior art). I am not sure how she can protect this under modern legal protections. But I am glad Regina did figure this one out, as it is one I've pondered for many years as well, and knew she was working on it. Great job Regina! I look forward to seeing your garments done in this fashion (will you have a class at CoCo?). And if I see anyone else claiming they re-discovered this style, well we know otherwise. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ For gods' sake woman, get it tradmarked. I don't know you, but I do know cultural property. snip Since I am about to proliferate an original idea, I wanted to put it up here to make sure it doesn't get hijacked. I have studied 16th century Irish clothing for the last 25 years. Leine (Irish bag sleeves) have never looked right how they have been interpreted by re-enactors. SO, I fixed it. snip ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume Workshops in US
I have to lose some more weight before we get there, or I won't be able to have anything new! So I'm okay with the current pace of time's passage. Now, if it were twice a year, that would be something! MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Tue, Feb 23, 2010 at 3:10 PM, Laurie Taylor costume...@mazarineblue.comwrote: But it's never going to get here fast enough! I can't wait. I'm like a kid stuck in school, waiting for summer vacation. Laurie Taylor (480) 560-7016 www.costumeraz.blogspot.com -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Maggie Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 3:23 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Workshops in US http://www.costumecollege.org Costume CollegeR is a three-day educational conference on all subjects relating to costuming and clothing. This year, Costume CollegeR will be held on August 6 - 9, 2010. Our hotel is the Warner Center Marriotthttp://www.costumecollege.org/CoCo_hotel.htmlin Woodland Hills, California. Please take a virtual tour, find out about the hotel, and book your room. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume Workshops in US
http://www.costumecollege.org Costume College® is a three-day educational conference on all subjects relating to costuming and clothing. This year, Costume College® will be held on August 6 - 9, 2010. Our hotel is the Warner Center Marriotthttp://www.costumecollege.org/CoCo_hotel.htmlin Woodland Hills, California. Please take a virtual tour, find out about the hotel, and book your room. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Mon, Feb 22, 2010 at 5:29 PM, Aylwen Garden aylwe...@gmail.com wrote: What are the exact dates? August begins on a Sunday - so is it the 1st or 2nd weekend of August? Bye for now, Aylwen Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy http://www.earthlydelights.com.au Director, Jane Austen Festival Australia http://www.janeaustenfestival.com.au Member, Jane Austen Society of Australia Member, Australian Costumers Guild On Tue, Feb 23, 2010 at 12:10 PM, Regina Lawson reginalaws...@gmail.com wrote: Costume College 2010, presented by the Costumer's Guild West, is the first weekend in August, In Los Angeles, if you can get here. It is a great event, with three days of workshops and the price is fabulous! http://www.costumecollege.org Hope to see you there. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Is this real or not?
The fairy picture is one of the ones reported by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle around 1921. They are paper cutouts on sticks. (The book they're from has even been identified.) Poor Conan Doyle and several other reputable people were completely taken in--largely because they really really wanted it to be true. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Sat, Feb 6, 2010 at 4:03 PM, Ron Carnegie r.carne...@verizon.net wrote: My understanding is that this image was done with paper figures on sticks. They are rather famous. Double images can certainly be made with wetplate or dryplate photography and I have seen some ghost images that were done that way. A double exposure will usually leave a ghostly image though, that is somewhat transparent. I'm your huckleberry Ron Carnegie r.carne...@verizon.net -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of otsisto Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 5:11 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is this real or not? Double exposure. though the second exposure does not appear real solid. not sure if this is a good example, might be figs on a stick. http://tinyurl.com/2o6b8r -Original Message- Does anybody know if photographers back then could superimpose such things? Anne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] where has all the velvet gone? (rant)
Wow, I'm always looking for cotton velvetg, even when i don't need it just because it's so hard to fid. Thanks, Kimiko. I've never seen this place before. too bad their color selection is so limitged, though. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Tue, Jan 19, 2010 at 9:46 AM, Kimiko Small sstormwa...@yahoo.com wrote: This is one online site that I've bought some 100% cotton velvet from before. You can buy swatches to check out before ordering if you need. They seem to carry the same basic colors regularly. http://www.syfabrics.com/Browse.aspx/100--Cotton-Med-Light-Weight-Velvet/258 I don't see any blue-green or green however. And my local Hancock sells velveteen in the fall, but not velvet. It may be that your stores only carry it seasonally. Did you ask any of the clerks? My store will order fabrics for me if it is one they carry on a regular basis, like their velveteens. Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern http://www.margospatterns.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Check out my photos on Facebook
Vicky, are you trying to tell someone that H-Costume should have a Facebook presence? Or did you just invite your whole address book? MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Tue, Dec 29, 2009 at 11:22 AM, Vicky Coleen Simpson invite+zj4oa0os6...@facebookmail.cominvite%2bzj4oa0os6...@facebookmail.com wrote: Hi Historical, I set up a Facebook profile where I can post my pictures, videos and events and I want to add you as a friend so you can see it. First, you need to join Facebook! Once you join, you can also create your own profile. Thanks, Vicky To sign up for Facebook, follow the link below: http://www.facebook.com/p.php?i=613334k=Z5D466TXVZTF6BD1QGX2TVR2PSIB424EUQDXBr ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] bride pic
Easter in 1928 was the 8th of April. That doesn't mean the Easter number of the magaine was published in April, of course. http://www.smart.net/~mmontes/freq3.html#LBY MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Mon, Nov 9, 2009 at 5:56 PM, Mary + Doug Piero Carey mary.d...@pierocarey.info wrote: cue Dr Hook the Medicine Show gonna see my picture on the cover..gonna send five copies to my mother... Ooops, wrong magazine.. grin That looks real flapperish to me. I think we've got it at work, I'll have a look tomorrow. Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] My Latest Finds: Fur and hats
Mother always said a girl needs two minks: one to wear and one to drag. She was talking about coats, of course ;-) MaggiR Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Fri, Oct 23, 2009 at 6:29 PM, landofoz lando...@netins.net wrote: http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=26535198 http://alzmoments.blogspot.com/2008/12/theres-something-dead-in-my-bed.html I can remember friends of my parents wearing fur stoles like these two photos show. I also found one more photo that shows a couple attached side by side, then single mink hanging down longer. http://auntjudysattic.com/product_detail_fur-3.htm Denise B ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] My Latest Finds: beaded gown photos
Definitely Filipino clipped butterfly sleeves.Here are some instructions, as demonstrated on a Barbie doll. The notes indicate this was how the author's mother did them on people size clothes, which she's adapted for the doll. http://1-6thsensedolls.blogspot.com/2009/07/terno-clipped-butterfly-sleeves.html MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Tue, Oct 20, 2009 at 10:01 PM, otsisto otsi...@socket.net wrote: It is a gown made in the Filippines. The design is Filippino. ex: http://chnm.gmu.edu/wwh/modules/lesson12/images/sources/marcos.jpg http://www.geocities.com/ganns_the_man/msintl05.gif http://tinyurl.com/yku3msg http://www.fisdu.com/gown1_big.jpg -Original Message- Very ornate gown... I would also think mid - late 60's. The 80's had a fascination for shoulder pads using padding not netting from what I have seen but I am happy to be corrected. Sidney On Wed, Oct 21, 2009 at 2:06 PM, Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.comwrote: I took the gown to my jewelry class for my teacher to identify the type of beads. She said all of them are glass. The three stands of gold bugle beads are unusual. They are gold in the middle and brown on the edges. I have thought about the gown's date all day. When I was teaching at VCU, there were a lot of beaded dresses in two decades, the early 1960s and 1980s. The 80s would work with the sleeve but dresses with that sleeve generally had a full gathered shirt. My gown's skirt is not gathered. Someone mentioned to not look at the sleeve for dating purposes. I think Kathleen is correct with the date. I thought about VCU's collection and two early 60s costumes stood out in my mind. There was a scalloped beaded dress that looked like the fish scales. The other costume was a cape with layered rounded petals that reminded me of bird feathers. Penny Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] respect and Henry 7 [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
Julian, the yahoo group called H-Costume is not the same as this list. I'm not sure what the relationship is, if any, but things posted there do not appear on the indra listserv, and vice versa. (Note the addresses.) MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Sun, Oct 11, 2009 at 5:04 PM, julian wilson smnc...@yahoo.co.uk wrote: -- On Sun, 11/10/09, Wilson, Annette annette.wil...@environment.gov.au wrote: Dear Julian, I have been following your comments about Henry 7th and the wardrobe list with interest, and then this. I would be very interested to see your work too, but the h-costume list does not allow attachments. Will you be kind enough to send a link to your heralds' tabard photos so I can also see them. Was it Pennsic you visited? REPLY Dear Annette, I put them into a newly-made Album in the Photos section on the h-costume Yahoo-group website. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Gown Doublet for a King's Servant Esquire of The Body?
I'm curious--and not wanting to start a range war or anything--but is the Authentic SCA a different organization from the SCA, Inc.? Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Wed, Oct 7, 2009 at 4:57 PM, julian wilson smnc...@yahoo.co.uk wrote: [...] I do living history with the Authentic SCA - and have been thinking for some time that I should treat myself to some special clothes suitable for their Courts and Feasts, ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Sleeve Drafting (Information Guide)
The problem is making the sleeve head match the armseye. You should be able to do this with a flexible ruler and some graph paper. Someone who has taken the sleeves workshop at Costume College (which I did but have no useful notes from) might be able to elaborate on the process. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Thu, Oct 8, 2009 at 9:20 AM, Cherylyn Crill cherylyncr...@yahoo.comwrote: This is true, so I guess any historic sleeve tutorial would be appreciated as well! --- On Thu, 10/8/09, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote: From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sleeve Drafting (Information Guide) To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Date: Thursday, October 8, 2009, 9:15 AM Admittedly not a 16th c specialist, but my impression is that sleeve heads/shapes, etc. were way different than our current set-ins, and that set-ins may be a much later construction. So a modern tutorial might not be ideal. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Sarafan and Apron Dress....Was: Viking alternate history--14thC/15thC Vinland?
The Vikings made some serious incursions into Ireand in the middle ages. Dublin and Cork are both Viking cities (built by conscripted irish labor). The relationship in clothing is left as an exercise for the student. ;-) MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Mon, Sep 28, 2009 at 6:56 PM, Wicked Frau wickedf...@gmail.com wrote: I happened to come across this sitehttp://www.vikinganswerlady.com/varangians.shtmla few months ago after I had decided to get around to finishing this doll http://www.smallwork.com/babayaga.html: Just before resuming work I happened to have made my first Viking dress. I am by no means an expert in this area, but the similarities jumped right out at me. It has also made me ponder the Viking Celtic relationship. Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Another view of the back of a costume
Yes, and those are especialy good because you can be sure you're looking at the front and back of the same suit! Unfortunatly, we don't have a lot of those in the US, but pictures are often available. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Wed, Sep 23, 2009 at 1:36 AM, Kate Bunting k.m.bunt...@derby.ac.ukwrote: Kneeling figures on tombs are another occasional source of back views. Kate Bunting Librarian 17th century reenactor ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Another view of the back of a costume
A long tme ago, someone on this list suggested that the book we need someone to publish would be called Hey Lady, Turn Around! My problem is that so often a painting includes one gown from the front and one from the back, but how do I know that this back is the back of this front? :-) The perils of research... MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress 2009/9/21 Käthe Barrows kay...@gmail.com That was in Jost Amman's Book of Trades (occupations), republished by Dover. Many back views, and side views too, in that book. On Mon, Sep 21, 2009 at 9:30 AM, Chiara Francesca chiara.france...@gmail.com wrote: One of the questions we get a lot on this list is how does the back of this garment or that garment look like within its period. I am working a contract for a book warehouser and saw this series (there are several books in this series). Here is a book cover that actually has an image of such a garment's view. https://new.mybooksandmore.com/MBM/popups/product_image.jsp?image=9780763776213 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] cloak or woman's outer garment for 15th century
What a fabulous resource! I've never seen so much 15th century illumination all in one place. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Fri, Sep 11, 2009 at 5:25 PM, otsisto otsi...@socket.net wrote: Then you are talking about Burgundian. http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/burgundian-gown.html http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/burgundian-reference.html Which to my understanding evolved from the houppelande De -Original Message- Thanks to all for help! I think I'll take your advice and make an outer garment rather than cloak - I'm thinking of a wool houppelande - as a middle class woman I think I should make regular sleeves, not these huge ones one can see in for ex. Tres riches heures de duc de Berry. I'll bind the edges with fur, but I think entire full lining would be way too expensive for me (not to talk about the fact that I'll look like being pregnant) - do you think it's OK to make a houppelande without fur lining? Thanks! Zuzana ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Cotehardie Help
The best friend is always the last to know. ;-) I have the Past Patterns one, Reg. I've never gotten around to even cutting it out, so you're welcome it. Maggie Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Sun, Sep 6, 2009 at 12:56 PM, Hanna Zickermann h.zickerm...@gmx.dewrote: True, the documentation stuff is very good, and the pattern gives a garment that gives a good overall shape and is a good start. The garment construction steps are really modern, though. Hanna At 15:57 06.09.2009, you wrote: Past patterns is accurate to the point of having about 2 newprint pages of dobumentation and the bibliography in with the pattern piecesCoryn Wiegle spent a lot of time on it years ago and though it has always been one of the top priced pattern lines out there for period clothing...the documentation and bibliography makes it well worth the price if one is stymied. Bambi (To be named later) TBNL I am made for great things by GOD and walk with Pride Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 1100ad see me dance http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HMtOoXtMs0 --- On Fri, 9/4/09, Regina Voorhes reginalaws...@gmail.com wrote: From: Regina Voorhes reginalaws...@gmail.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cotehardie Help To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Date: Friday, September 4, 2009, 2:16 PM I should have elaborated. He is hard-core, and I want to get this right. Is the Past Patterns version accurate? I am out of my specialty and most of the art of the period shows a hood or mantle over the neckline. G! Thanks all, Regina On Thu, Sep 3, 2009 at 10:42 PM, Regina Voorhes reginalaws...@gmail.com wrote: Hi, my partner wants something like a knee-length cotehardie with a standing band collar. Does this actually exist? Is it called something specific? Thanks, Regina in L.A. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
At present, a broad-brimmed hat in italian straw from Wheat Godesses (Cora Hendershot) and the just-finished beautiful new silk and organza high-necked partlet. But shortly, I need to put the elizabethan kirtle on it, over the new hoops to get them down to the right size. I have been writing more that sewing since Costume College. As soon as the weather cools, it will be time to start new stuff for JimDear. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Help! Enlarging with a photocopier
Get on MJ's mailing list. They frequently have very good sales. And yes, the home dec department at any fabric store is frequently the place to find the right fabric. Just be sure to train your eye for what period brocade or tapestry patterns look like for the period you're working in. I hate seeing Elizabethans done up in Edwardian cabbage roses, just for example. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Sat, Aug 29, 2009 at 10:15 AM, ladybeanofbun...@aol.com wrote: Good afternoon! Here is an update, so far so good (holding breath) using the grid method is working well. I went with that initial idea to translate each of the 1/4 inch squares from the paper where I traced the 1/8 scale pieces in the book onto and into a block of 4 of the 1 squares on my drafting board instead of square by square as did with the 1/4 pieces. They look good, they look like they are nearly my size, maybe a little long... which is the easiest alteration to make! Now today once I finished redrawing the the back skirt piece (big) and the polonaise side piece I can get an idea of how much fabric I'll need, but will then be able to first make a mock up and really see how everything will fit. I've been making absolute use of my library on this project so I know what will really work on this dress. We have a few places I like to hit for fabric hunting but it's hit or miss and usually I only find great that stuff that I am not looking for, and never what I need. Where is a good place to find trimmings and fabrics for period costuming? MJ Trim (I think that's what it's called) out of NY has a lovely selection, if one can afford their prices. I could be wrong but it seems like some of the prettiest fabrics for period looking ensembles are decorator/home fabrics! They just have that oomph with colouring and pattern that most modern dress fabric lack. In the future I might try using the photocopier technique however. I already made the effort with the grid and have the roll of plain paper. Take care and happy Saturday! It's my last two days of freedom before classes start again :( -Justine. -Original Message- From: bphal...@aol.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, Aug 27, 2009 10:58 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help! Enlarging with a photocopier Also some copy places, Office Depot is one, have what are called blueprint printers that can enlarge pieces up to 36 inches wide.? The trick is to know what percentage to tell the copy operator.? The advantage of this is that you are not taping many letter sized sheets of paper together for a pattern. Britta/Vasilisa -Original Message- From: Viv Watkins viv.watk...@virgin.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, Aug 27, 2009 2:34 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help! Enlarging with a photocopier My other goal for today that didn't happen was to try just the photocopying method. Is there any particular number of times that anyone knows of that I should enlarge each scaled down peice? If the pieces are 1/4 scale, would that mean I'd enlarge them 75%? Oy, math definitely isn't my cup of tea, I'm just wishing now the author was more clear on how to scale up. It sort of leaves no purpose to have patterns if one has to pretty much redraw each peice!?? ? I have used a photocopier to enlarge lettering for a banner but not for pattern pieces. Unfortunately you can't just enlarge, say one inch to four inches, by using 400% - the photocopier enlarges by area not length. I just experimented until I got the right size - most photocopiers let you set a 'custom' %. You will probably have to enlarge your first size and then enlarge your enlargements! You just need time and to be ready for 'millions' of sheets of paper. But once you have it worked out you can get your pieces and sellotape them together!? ? Good luck? Viv ? ___? h-costume mailing list? h-cost...@mail.indra.com? http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] HELP!
It's also possible to make a transparency of the pattern page, then put it on an overhead projector and project it on to paper or a sheet on the wall. Enlarge it to the actual size you need and trace onto the paper/sheet. I've never actually done this, but if you have access to the tools, it seems to be a good solution. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Tue, Aug 25, 2009 at 10:02 AM, Andrew T Trembley attre...@bovil.comwrote: Kim Baird wrote: Justine-- To make enlarging easier, you can buy pattern paper that is printed with a grid. Or it may be sold as interfacing, not paper. It is white with a blue grid. There are two versions of this: Quilter's Grid is usually heat-bond non-woven interfacing material with a printed 1 grid. True-Grid is no-adhesive non-woven interfacing material with a printed 1 grid. I tend to order True-Grid by the bolt, since I have to adjust almost every pattern. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] HELP!
No matter how you blow up the one period pattern you have, you're still only getting the pattern that was made for that one person in their particular proportions. No matter what you do, you're going to have to do a mock-up, and pinch and tweak and fiddle till you have a pattern for you. But I think you knew that :-) MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Tue, Aug 25, 2009 at 2:40 PM, Rickard, Patty ricka...@muc.edu wrote: Even if there's not projector distortion, there's the problem (since various parts of the body do not increase in size at the same rate between sizes) that an enlargement to fit the bust, for example, may make the armscye, for example, too large, too small, or in the wrong place. It's a place to start, though. Patty From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Kimiko Small [sstormwa...@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 4:28 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] HELP! I did that once with a transparency. The only issue is that in some overhead projectors, there is a distortion along the edges, so what may be accurate in the middle, will end up slightly larger at the edges, so you have to keep the image you are drawing in the middle of the field. You can also get a book projector at the craft store to transfer an image directly from a book, but again, check for distortion along the edge. If I must, I prefer to grid up directly from a book onto gridded pattern paper by hand. But then gridded paper are not all that accurate either but decently close. Now I've been draping onto the body instead, but that does take some good book or good teacher to help learn. Kimiko Kimiko Small http://www.kimiko1.com Be the change you want to see in the world. ~ Ghandi Coming soon: The Tudor Lady's Wardrobe http://www.margospatterns.com/ From: Maggie maggi...@gmail.com It's also possible to make a transparency of the pattern page, then put it on an overhead projector and project it on to paper or a sheet on the ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] How do I get a friend in this group?
Sign up at http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume It's at the bottom of every H-Cost email. :-) Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Sun, Aug 23, 2009 at 3:34 PM, cc2010m...@cs.com wrote: Hello! One of my friends needs to join this group. At least, that's what I told her! How do I get her in? Henry W. Osier Chairman, Costume-Con 28 May 7 to May 10, 2010 www.CC28.org Look for our fan page on Facebook! And on Twitter: CostumeCon28 Got questions? Join the CostumeCon Yahoo group! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Laser scissors
They're not very expensive. It might be worth the investment, just for fun. Now if it were a laser *cutter*, that would be something! MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 11:39 AM, cc2010m...@cs.com wrote: I have information on these, because I have a pair! There is a website called Think Geek that has them. http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/tools/a823/ I had to have a pair because I am also the President of the Armed Costumers Guild, and I could not resist scissors with a laser sight! They are from a company called Shesto Ltd, in the UK, and their site is www.modelcraftcollection.com. The laser line is bright and easy to see and the batteries are easy to change. And the blades are not dull. Henry W. Osier ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1913 stays
I'm going to take the plunge and make this Teens corset--well, have it made. It should be an interesting experience for both of us, the corsetier and me. A learning experience! I'll feel much better about making and wearing the dress--the one I first fell in love with and possibly more--with the proper undergarments (If only I were as thin as the fashion plates!). MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Thu, Aug 20, 2009 at 11:02 AM, albert...@aol.com wrote: Now, sitting in those long-bodied corsets must have been...interesting. At least one shows creases where your thighs would bend. You'll notice that the bones do not go all the way to the bottom, but usually stop at the high hip line. The casings do continue all the way down but usually have some kind of light stiffener in them. The pair I have, and others I've seen, seem to have something like stiff paper in the casings below the hip level... but I really don't know what's in there. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1913 stays
Oh I know nobody really looks like that, but one can wish :-) Anyway, the cost is being offset by the fact that the corsetier *is* a friend, who happens to make corsets Since she's never done this period either, it will be a learning experience for both of us, so I'm only paying for materials. If I had to do it myself, it would never be more than just a good idea. Trust me. MaggiRos On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 4:34 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote: Maggie, Few people _are_ as thin as the fashion plates. Heck, compare yourself (or anybody else!) to modern fashion illustrations. Nobody on earth has legs that long (and I am long-legged)!! nobody. Corsets aren't all that difficult to make, but you do need a fitting buddy with educated hands to pin-fit them. If you have that, it's worth the effort (I have made my own, 1835 - 1900). Corsetiers are expensive. Best of luck! It's worth it for that lovely gown. == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Aug 22, 2009, at 4:06 PM, Maggie wrote: I'm going to take the plunge and make this Teens corset--well, have it made. It should be an interesting experience for both of us, the corsetier and me. A learning experience! I'll feel much better about making and wearing the dress--the one I first fell in love with and possibly more--with the proper undergarments (If only I were as thin as the fashion plates!). MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Thu, Aug 20, 2009 at 11:02 AM, albert...@aol.com wrote: Now, sitting in those long-bodied corsets must have been...interesting. At least one shows creases where your thighs would bend. You'll notice that the bones do not go all the way to the bottom, but usually stop at the high hip line. The casings do continue all the way down but usually have some kind of light stiffener in them. The pair I have, and others I've seen, seem to have something like stiff paper in the casings below the hip level... but I really don't know what's in there. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Laser scissors
I wonder if these are ready for prime time? Here's a pair on eBay. http://tinyurl.com/nn2q36* *MaggiRos* *Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1913 stays
And here's a collection of the real thing http://laracorsets.com/Antique_corset_collection_5_Teens+WWI_corsets.htm MaggiRos On Wed, Aug 19, 2009 at 1:38 PM, Maggie maggi...@gmail.com wrote: I think this is the one I have at home, but it's been a couple of years since I looked at it. http://www.amazon.com/Everyday-Fashions-1909-1920-Pictured-Catalogs/dp/0486286282 It has the Look Inside feature, and one of the pages is support garments, 1909. On Wed, Aug 19, 2009 at 1:10 PM, Maggie maggi...@gmail.com wrote: Great illustrations! Now I begin to remember. I do have a book of catalog illustrations from the 20s and maybe one from the teens, too, I'll have to look. Thanks! MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Wed, Aug 19, 2009 at 10:59 AM, Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.comwrote: I have a page on my website with some undergarment illustrations from the 1910s, including some tango knickers! http://www.vintagevictorian.com/costume_1910_acc.html About 15 years ago I bought a girdle, made of a woven mostly-cotton fabric that was almost identical to 1910s corsets (corsets get shorter by mid-decade), it's great. I don't know if they can still be found. I don't know of a pattern for a corset of the. The corset doesn't support the bust in the way a 19th century corset does, a separate brassiere would probably have been worn. Katy On Wed, Aug 19, 2009 at 12:24 PM, Maggiemaggi...@gmail.com wrote: And while we're at it, what sort of stays or whatever do I need if I want to wear this authentically? I'm serious, I am totally lost in this era, I just know I love the look. MaggiRos ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1913 stays
You'd have to ask Lara, who owns the collection, but from what she shows, they do seem to have lasted through the decade, just fine. Then when you go to the Twenties on the next page, you do start to see some changes. The waist comes down, and the length comes up, elastic comes in, and the whole thing starts to turn into a girdle. It's fascinating to watch the changes through the decades, like a flip book! One piece foundation garments have never entirely disappeared, but they're no longer the principal undergarment (thank god!) On Thu, Aug 20, 2009 at 9:55 AM, cw15147-hcos...@yahoo.com wrote: Gorgeous! Now, sitting in those long-bodied corsets must have been...interesting. At least one shows creases where your thighs would bend. Did this style of corset last long? Is there an speculation that their extremeness might have contributed to their popularity being brief? I'd love to make one of these someday, garter straps and all! Claudine - Original Message From: Maggie maggi...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 9:37:29 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1913 stays And here's a collection of the real thing http://laracorsets.com/Antique_corset_collection_5_Teens+WWI_corsets.htm MaggiRos snipped ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1913?
And while we're at it, what sort of stays or whatever do I need if I want to wear this authentically? I'm serious, I am totally lost in this era, I just know I love the look. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 10:52 AM, Maggie maggi...@gmail.com wrote: I don't think it looks 30s at all. It's a pity this is the only still picture I could find. There are some better angles in this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJ6Ym-46-WY# Look at about 1:20 and 1:51 for a front view. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1913?
Great illustrations! Now I begin to remember. I do have a book of catalog illustrations from the 20s and maybe one from the teens, too, I'll have to look. Thanks! MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Wed, Aug 19, 2009 at 10:59 AM, Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.comwrote: I have a page on my website with some undergarment illustrations from the 1910s, including some tango knickers! http://www.vintagevictorian.com/costume_1910_acc.html About 15 years ago I bought a girdle, made of a woven mostly-cotton fabric that was almost identical to 1910s corsets (corsets get shorter by mid-decade), it's great. I don't know if they can still be found. I don't know of a pattern for a corset of the. The corset doesn't support the bust in the way a 19th century corset does, a separate brassiere would probably have been worn. Katy On Wed, Aug 19, 2009 at 12:24 PM, Maggiemaggi...@gmail.com wrote: And while we're at it, what sort of stays or whatever do I need if I want to wear this authentically? I'm serious, I am totally lost in this era, I just know I love the look. MaggiRos ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1913?
I think this is the one I have at home, but it's been a couple of years since I looked at it. http://www.amazon.com/Everyday-Fashions-1909-1920-Pictured-Catalogs/dp/0486286282 It has the Look Inside feature, and one of the pages is support garments, 1909. On Wed, Aug 19, 2009 at 1:10 PM, Maggie maggi...@gmail.com wrote: Great illustrations! Now I begin to remember. I do have a book of catalog illustrations from the 20s and maybe one from the teens, too, I'll have to look. Thanks! MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Wed, Aug 19, 2009 at 10:59 AM, Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.comwrote: I have a page on my website with some undergarment illustrations from the 1910s, including some tango knickers! http://www.vintagevictorian.com/costume_1910_acc.html About 15 years ago I bought a girdle, made of a woven mostly-cotton fabric that was almost identical to 1910s corsets (corsets get shorter by mid-decade), it's great. I don't know if they can still be found. I don't know of a pattern for a corset of the. The corset doesn't support the bust in the way a 19th century corset does, a separate brassiere would probably have been worn. Katy On Wed, Aug 19, 2009 at 12:24 PM, Maggiemaggi...@gmail.com wrote: And while we're at it, what sort of stays or whatever do I need if I want to wear this authentically? I'm serious, I am totally lost in this era, I just know I love the look. MaggiRos ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1913?
I don't think it looks 30s at all. It's a pity this is the only still picture I could find. There are some better angles in this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJ6Ym-46-WY# Look at about 1:20 and 1:51 for a front view. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 12:02 AM, otsisto otsi...@socket.net wrote: Fashions of the 1913 http://www.fashion-era.com/fashion_plates_old/0011_1910s_1913_edwardian_tita nic.htmhttp://www.fashion-era.com/fashion_plates_old/0011_1910s_1913_edwardian_tita%0Anic.htm http://tinyurl.com/pn4lo2 But I think it looks more like 1930 http://www.gtj.org.uk/en/large/item/GTJ40473/ -Original Message- I would look so good in this dress. http://rdwf.org.uk/doctors/images/29/hum12.jpg It's an episode of Doctor Who (series 3) set in 1913. Is there a pattern for something similar that anyone can recommend? I'm sorry, it's the best still picture of it I can find. MaggiRos ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 8, Issue 280
Oh those are nice! A serious possibility. On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 12:02 PM, ann marie bestintere...@gmail.com wrote: On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 MaggiRos wrote: I would look so good in this dress. http://rdwf.org.uk/doctors/images/29/hum12.jpg How aobut the 1910's tea dress pattern from Sense and Sensibility patterns: http://www.sensibility.com/pattern/main/?page_id=43 Ann -- As Ben Franklin said: In wine there is wisdom, In beer there is freedom, In water there is bacteria. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 1913?
I would look so good in this dress. http://rdwf.org.uk/doctors/images/29/hum12.jpg It's an episode of Doctor Who (series 3) set in 1913. Is there a pattern for something similar that anyone can recommend? I'm sorry, it's the best still picture of it I can find. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fabric suggestions - Marie Antoinette 1786 portrait
Cotton voile is what immediately sprang to my mind. Not my period however, so it's just a thought. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 8:14 AM, bphal...@aol.com wrote: Dharma also has some very lightweight cotton that could work well for this dress.? They have both a combed cotton lawn and two cotton voiles. Britta/Vasilisa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Rococo bunny
That's adorable! And it looks like you could have had a little inspiration from Bjarne! MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Wed, Jul 29, 2009 at 2:08 PM, Deredere Galbraith tria...@kabelfoon.nlwrote: I just had to post this. I make bunny backpacks and I have been asked to make a rococo male bunny. The embroidery is done by machine. The undershirt is silk and the rest is of synthetic taft. http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Troep/Kabunny.jpg Greetings, Deredere ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Lacing question
Poly-cotton shoe laces. They're sturdy and come with their own aiglets! For corsets especially, look around the local skating rink for skate laces. They're very long and put up with a lot of stress. Since they don't show, I really don't care what they look like as long as they do the job and don't slip or come untied. (I don't like double-knotting just in case I might have to come out of it in a hurry.) For the side laces on an Elizabethan bodice, I have used plain black laces for dress shoes. Basically, they don't draw attention to themselves, and they're just the right size. But more often, I use 1/4 black grosgrain ribbon with decorative filigree for aiglets. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Sat, Jul 25, 2009 at 1:38 PM, Laurie Taylor costume...@mazarineblue.comwrote: Hi, Getting ready for Costume College and have a last minute issue. Could have asked this on the CGW list, but thought the larger group here might give a larger range of answers/ideas. What do you use for lacing your various types of corsets and/or stays? When I think about going to the local fabric store and buying the cotton cord that I would normally use as filling in pipings, I just can't see using it on stays, especially late 18th/early 19th century. Rattail certainly would not work either. What do you use that isn't too bulky or to hard, or too prone to slipping out of the tie? Right now, for convenience and in the interest of stash reduction, I'm using 1/8 and 1/4 silk ribbon, leftover from my last round of silk ribbon embroidery. It's not very satisfactory, but I could not figure out a good alternative. Thanks. Laurie T. Phoenix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] CoCo Meet-up
Sure. Now a day and time? The bar (as we know) doesn't open till 4 or 5 pm MaggiRos On Fri, Jul 24, 2009 at 10:14 PM, Regina Voorhes reginalaws...@gmail.comwrote: I'm thinking, the balcony at the bar? Should be enough room. We can be seen to be conspicuously having fun. What more can we ask? Regina ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 8, Issue 248
Or you are so good! I was just wishing I had thought to do that, and regretting that it was too late now! Yay you! Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Tue, Jul 21, 2009 at 5:23 PM, Kimiko Small sstormwa...@yahoo.com wrote: I plan on bringing little stickers that have h-costume on them, dear roommate. Sadly, it's too late to order the ribbons that have that, but I will try to remember for next year. I will keep extra stickers in the check-in area. Kimiko --- On Tue, 7/21/09, fyneha...@aol.com fyneha...@aol.com wrote: Am hoping to bring a red pen to make a red H on my nametage. Will be so happy to meet some H-Costumers face to face! Donna Scarfe ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hospitality Suite for Costume College
This is so cool. In the past, it has seemed like almost no one from the list was going to Costume College, so there was really no move to meet up or anything. (Costume Con usually gets all the excitement.) I am so excited! MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Mon, Jul 20, 2009 at 1:50 AM, Simone Bryan cil...@dracolore.com wrote: I hope everyone will remember to come to the Hospitality Suite!I am hosting this year, it is a Fairy theme and we will have loads of fun as usual. Please do remember to come up and tell us you are on the H list okay? Cilean ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume College
Count me in! But then, you knew that :-) MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Wed, Jul 15, 2009 at 11:24 PM, Kimiko Small sstormwa...@yahoo.comwrote: I would be... but when and where? And good luck on your corset. Kimiko --- On Wed, 7/15/09, Regina Voorhes reginalaws...@gmail.com wrote: From: Regina Voorhes reginalaws...@gmail.com Subject: [h-cost] Costume College To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Date: Wednesday, July 15, 2009, 9:55 PM I'll be there. With Maggie. I was thinking of setting up a meet. Anyone interested? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume College
I'll be there, but I still don't know how I'm going to dress for Saturday night. (Not going to the Gala) but it won't be till after dinner. It's always just too warm and close for me to dress up during the day, and it's hard to sit in a class in a farthingale. :) I have the new Elizabethan to show off, though, so we'll see! MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Tue, Jul 14, 2009 at 1:18 PM, Cin cinbar...@gmail.com wrote: Speaking of summer costume events, will there be a flood of costumers sporting Red Hs at Costume College. And if so, what wonderous things are you wearing for the evening events? --cin cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-cost...@mail.indra.co h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costumhttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Research problems WAS: Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought
Norris was my first costume resource that was an actual costume book. when I started doing faire, it was just about all we had , with a few others of the same ilk, until Janet Arnold burst on the scene and Changed Everything. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Mon, Jul 6, 2009 at 6:29 AM, Rickard, Patty ricka...@muc.edu wrote: All we could find (and we considered it a find) was Norris. :-) Back in 1971 when I joined the SCA nobody had Janet Arnold. But thanks to (I think) Dover, we could get Wilcox. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1960s hippie fashions - Nehru?
Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Mon, Jul 6, 2009 at 12:14 PM, cbellfl...@aol.com wrote: I don't think anyone has mentioned fringed vests, yet.? And ponchos.? You see those in TV and movies as a cultural reference to hippies, but I never knew anyone who had either. I was a college freshman in the fall of 1968. I did have a beautiful suede vest that I wore for several years, but I never had a lot of money for clothes, trendy or otherwise. I know a lot of real hippie wear came from charity shops, and the fancy stuff came from Hollywood designers. MaggiRos ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Garibaldi Shirt WAS: Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought
Slight correction to the URL provided. It should be elizabethstewartclark.com http://elizabethstewertclark.com/ The site has a great article on assembling a Best Bet wardrobe that should be required reading for Civil War re-enacting women. MaggiRos On Sun, Jul 5, 2009 at 8:03 PM, Laura Chambers cha...@hotmail.com wrote: A good simple dress would be a gathered bodice with coat or bishop sleeves and a cartridge pleated skirt. Simplicity had a very good pattern by Martha McCain that was an easy way to get started if you can find it. I don't remember the # but the main dress on the front is a yellow dress and the lady has a straw hat on and a basket. Past Pattern also has a gathered/darted bodice pattern and you can get directions on how to cartridge pleat the skirt at elizabethstewertclark.com. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought
Then of course, there's this one. http://www.kateemersonhistoricals.com/browne,mabel(resized).jpg I guess we should be looking in the 1560s. MaggiRos On Sun, Jul 5, 2009 at 4:30 PM, Kimiko Small sstormwa...@yahoo.com wrote: Great call for knowing which Henri image it really was based on. Kimiko Good call on recognizing Henri III, but I wonder whether Wilcox wasn't working from this http://www.culture.gouv.fr/Wave/image/joconde/0002/m503604_87ee1701_p.jpg which the Louvre attributes to Francois Quesnel, 1582-1586. The listing from the joconde database is here: http://tinyurl.com/r87kfh ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1960s hippie fashions
Everything old is new again. But nothing ever happens exactly the same way twice!. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Sat, Jul 4, 2009 at 10:41 PM, Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.comwrote: This conversation came to mind tonight while watching fireworks. Many young adult women were wearing tie-dyed maxi skirts. Penny Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought
Page 9 shows something the author actually calls a pill box, and gives it as Venetian about 1500. We are all aware, right, that this book is not proper documentation, being nothing but re-drawings from unidentified sources? Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Sat, Jul 4, 2009 at 11:10 PM, Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.comwrote: Wow, if you go to page 4, in the top right corner is a man wearing a hat that is almost exactly what everyone has been discussing. (hat/caul with rolled/padded brim, even with a slight point in front)Could women have adopted a man's style? -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of otsisto Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2009 4:24 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought I had asked Lynn McMasters and she says that it is based off an Italian portrait. http://lynnmcmasters.com/LadyM.html in color and a wee bit larger. http://tinyurl.com/yt6hg9 Now it could be something like this http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Angelo_Bronzino_002.jpg with a caul but it is hard to tell. The Mode in Hats and headdresses might also be of help. Wilcox has a few pillbox drawings from this period. Usually you can find a matching portrait to her drawings if you look around. I have seem many 18C matches in my Turban research. You can see all her drawings from that book on line. http://gallery.villagehatshop.com/gallery/chapter9 She does use different names for what is basically the same thing; Pillbox, Calotte (cap) and velvet bonnet. Maybe that is what people are having trouble with. Lynn De ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1960s hippie fashions
I think we wore penny loafers to school in the late 50s, in So Cal. For me, that was elementary school. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Sun, Jul 5, 2009 at 9:41 AM, Sylvia Rognstad syl...@ntw.net wrote: I remember those Villlager shirtwaists. No one was wearing them in CA where I went to high school but I recall that when I went on to college there were girls in my rooming house from the east coast who were all wearing Villager style clothes, along with penny loafers, which no one in CA wore either. It was the preppy look which, I don't think, ever made its way to the west coast. Slvia On Jul 5, 2009, at 10:25 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: Ah, but the phrase that I was responding to was that much of what we think of as the 1960s really happened in the 1970s, not necessarily just the hippies of the 1960s. And certainly things happened in different places at different times. For instance, no one wore a grannie dress at my suburban St. Louis high school until after I graduated, in 1969. When my classmates weren't wearing Villager shirtwaists, they did often tend toward the mod look--my first pair of pantyhose (as opposed to stockings) were pale orange and had a diamond pattern. Double-breasted, so-called Edwardian tuxedos were the style of choice for many of my male classmates at the prom, again in the spring of 1969, or so I understood from their discussion--I didn't go (I wasn't anti-prom--I couldn't get a date, and one didn't go without one). I went to a private liberal arts college that had a dress code, skirts only, right up until the fall of 1969, when I started. So no one wore jeans to class until then. Ann Wass **Make your summer sizzle with fast and easy recipes for the grill. (http://food.aol.com/grilling?ncid=emlcntusfood0005) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1960s hippie fashions
I figure that what we think of as The Sixties started about 1964 (when the Beatles arrived) and went to about 1976 or so. It all depends on what your markers are, but mere calendar dates don't work. Trends and whatever don't start and stop neatly just because the decade changes. Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Sat, Jul 4, 2009 at 5:29 PM, Sylvia Rognstad syl...@ntw.net wrote: What do you mean by that? I definitely experienced the 60s in the 60s. Sylvia On Jul 4, 2009, at 6:22 PM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 7/4/2009 7:37:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time, sovag...@cybermesa.com writes: [who thinks it is true that the Sixties mostly happened in the Seventies] Oh, absolutely. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Trying to get ticket for Gala Ball
There will be a message board in the lobby where you can post an enquiry. I believe it's sold out. Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Fri, Jul 3, 2009 at 6:32 AM, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden aylwe...@gmail.comwrote: Does anyone know how I can obtain a ticket for the Gala Ball at Costume College? Many thanks Aylwen Garden Earthly Delights, Australia Sent from my iPhone ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] No rings on middle finger (was Black beads PrincessElizabeth image)
I believe I have the (full length, BW) portrait I'm thinking of in a book at home, but I'll have to check later. If I find it, I'll scan and post it for general perusal. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Wed, Jun 17, 2009 at 10:33 PM, Kimiko Small sstormwa...@yahoo.comwrote: I had heard about the fool's finger elsewhere online, and I remember smiling in recognition when I read it in your book. It has made me not put rings on that finger at faires, and I am trying to get my friends to do the same, but most continue to do so. By your comment of Mary QoS, I went and googled for Mary's image, and found Marilee Cody's site that has almost all of her images and related images. http://www.marileecody.com/maryqosimages.html If there is one of Mary QoS wearing a ring on her middle finger, I could not find it. I did find one of her posed with a ring about to be placed on the ring finger of her right hand. http://www.marileecody.com/maryqos/maryring.jpg Otherwise, I note that most of her images she is wearing no rings. Maybe it is the one or two not on her site at this time? btw, that one image above by one artist, the dress she is wearing is repeated in this next image of Mary QoS, same hair style, too. http://www.marileecody.com/maryqos/maryqosclouetdark.jpg Makes me wonder which was the original painting. And years ago I had wanted to recreate the gown, although I think beading all those tri-clusters of pearls would drive me batty! Kimiko --- On Wed, 6/17/09, Maggie maggi...@gmail.com wrote: I know of one full length portrait of Mary Queen of Scots, and I believe I've seen a couple other examples (possibly German), but they're way out-numbered. According the author of the book I mentioned, the middle finger is for fools, but he doesn't really say much else about it. Although he does say a similar habit prevailed among the ancient Greeks and Romans and contemporary (1917) Hindus. This tidbit is included in The Compendium, by the way. ;-) MaggiRos ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] No rings on middle finger (was Black beads PrincessElizabeth image)
On Mon, Jun 22, 2009 at 1:33 PM, Maggie maggi...@gmail.com wrote: I believe I have the (full length, BW) portrait I'm thinking of in a book at home, but I'll have to check later. If I find it, I'll scan and post it for general perusal. Well, it wasn't in the first 3-4 places I looked. It's going to take more time than I have tonight, and it might still not be here. I'll keep an eye out for it. MaggiRos On Wed, Jun 17, 2009 at 10:33 PM, Kimiko Small sstormwa...@yahoo.comwrote: I had heard about the fool's finger elsewhere online, and I remember smiling in recognition when I read it in your book. It has made me not put rings on that finger at faires, and I am trying to get my friends to do the same, but most continue to do so. By your comment of Mary QoS, I went and googled for Mary's image, and found Marilee Cody's site that has almost all of her images and related images. http://www.marileecody.com/maryqosimages.html If there is one of Mary QoS wearing a ring on her middle finger, I could not find it. I did find one of her posed with a ring about to be placed on the ring finger of her right hand. http://www.marileecody.com/maryqos/maryring.jpg Otherwise, I note that most of her images she is wearing no rings. Maybe it is the one or two not on her site at this time? btw, that one image above by one artist, the dress she is wearing is repeated in this next image of Mary QoS, same hair style, too. http://www.marileecody.com/maryqos/maryqosclouetdark.jpg Makes me wonder which was the original painting. And years ago I had wanted to recreate the gown, although I think beading all those tri-clusters of pearls would drive me batty! Kimiko --- On Wed, 6/17/09, Maggie maggi...@gmail.com wrote: I know of one full length portrait of Mary Queen of Scots, and I believe I've seen a couple other examples (possibly German), but they're way out-numbered. According the author of the book I mentioned, the middle finger is for fools, but he doesn't really say much else about it. Although he does say a similar habit prevailed among the ancient Greeks and Romans and contemporary (1917) Hindus. This tidbit is included in The Compendium, by the way. ;-) MaggiRos ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Black beads Princess Elizabeth image
On Tue, Jun 16, 2009 at 10:34 PM, Becky Rautine zearti...@hotmail.comwrote: All her rings match the ouches. Just as a sidebar... notice that there are NO rings on the middle fingers. Look at portrait after 16th century portrait and this is what you find 90% of the time. and not just in England. People are almost never shown with a ring on a middle finger. This feature is pointed out in _Rings for the Finger_ by Kuntz. Ever since I learned this, I find it impossible to wear a ring on a middle finger when in period dress! MaggiRos ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] No rings on middle finger (was Black beads PrincessElizabeth image)
I know of one full length portrait of Mary Queen of Scots, and I believe I've seen a couple other examples (possibly German), but they're way out-numbered. According the author of the book I mentioned, the middle finger is for fools, but he doesn't really say much else about it. Although he does say a similar habit prevailed among the ancient Greeks and Romans and contemporary (1917) Hindus. This tidbit is included in The Compendium, by the way. ;-) MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Wed, Jun 17, 2009 at 10:24 PM, Frank A Thallas Jr fathal...@collinscom.net wrote: Wow, my learned thing of the day! Went to my stash of portraits-with-blackwork out of curiosity, and not one single middle-finger ring - even on the folks wearing a ring on every other finger. Amazing the things you never notice! :-) Liadain THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO You get a wonderful view from the point of no return... wildernesse, the Outlands http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies http://practical-blackwork.tripod.com -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Kimiko Small Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2009 9:04 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] No rings on middle finger (was Black beads PrincessElizabeth image) --- On Wed, 6/17/09, Maggie maggi...@gmail.com wrote: Just as a sidebar... notice that there are NO rings on the middle fingers. Look at portrait after 16th century portrait and this is what you find 90% of the time. and not just in England. People are almost never shown with a ring on a middle finger. I had noticed that a few years ago when I started keeping images, and I've only once come across a portrait that showed someone wearing a ring on that finger... and sadly forgot to save the image off so I don't have it. If anyone knows of any contemporary portrait that shows someone wearing a ring on their middle finger, do let me know. And thanks for the book note, as I've not read it before. Kimiko ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Black beads Princess Elizabeth image
The foil on the backs of the diamonds was apparently black or blackened on purpose. This usage led to an old costume myth that the Elizabethans didn't care for diamonds. What's true is that they liked colored stones, and the backing on the diamonds was apparently a way to provide more color--also more flash, since the cut stones didn't have nearly as many facets to catch the light as they do now--in a world lit only by fire. I've never heard anyone suggest they are tarnished silver. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Tue, Jun 16, 2009 at 12:22 PM, otsisto otsi...@socket.net wrote: If the foil on the back of the diamonds are silver, then one needs to take into account that the ones in the VA have tarnished over the years. To my understanding, black diamonds are post 1600. De ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Tudor Lady's Wardrobe Pattern, Now taking pre-orders!
Margo has a farthingale, bum roll, corsets, and a couple of shifts in the Underpinnings package. http://www.margospatterns.com/Products/ElizUndpn.html MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Mon, Jun 15, 2009 at 4:13 AM, Elizabeth Walpole ewalp...@grapevine.com.au wrote: -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of otsisto Sent: Monday, 15 June 2009 6:17 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tudor Lady's Wardrobe Pattern, Now taking pre-orders! This pattern appears to be Early Tudor, pre 1550s. I had thought that the farthingale came into play in England about the 1550s. The Spanish and some Italian states had the farthingale in 1540s. . Example of 1528-30 http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Gablehood_front-back_c1535.jpg There doesn't seem to be a farthingale. Anne of Brittany http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/bilimoff/images/anne-de-bretagne.jpg http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c4/Anne_de_bretagne.jpg Note: Reconstructing History has a pattern for early and late Tudor http://tinyurl.com/nnz7jo Note the figure on the right is wearing early Tudor, similar to Margo's pattern. De ___ I would say this pattern covers roughly the 1520s-1550s (in England, French fashions were slightly different) I would be hesitant to use it for the earlier 1490s-1510s period as I suspect the bodice was quite different not just the sleeves (the neckline definitely looks very different) Evidence for the farthingale is clear in portraits from the 1540s (end of Henry VIII's reign) and 1550s (Edward VI and Mary I reigns) E.g. Catherine Parr http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/kparr.jpghttp://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/tudor/kparr.jpg(Henry VIII's 6th wife) Princess Elizabeth c.1545 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/kideliz.jpghttp://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/tudor/kideliz.jpg And Queen Mary http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/blackmary.jpghttp://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/tudor/blackmary.jpg It may even have been around in the 1530s see Jane Seymour c.1536 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/redjane.jpghttp://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/tudor/redjane.jpg(the skirt is laying very smooth, which suggests some sort of support, but if it is a farthingale it's quite narrow) Like I said a farthingale is necessary for court wear of the 1540s and 1550s Once you get into the 1560s and Elizabeth is on the throne this style of dress largely disappears. Elizabeth --- Elizabeth Walpole Canberra, Australia http://magpiecostumer.110mb.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hardewick Hall Portrait forepart replica?
Now THAT is a reproduction! Even the wig is great, although the hair should be completely off the lady's face. What amazing work. breathless here MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Sat, Jun 13, 2009 at 11:41 PM, Margo Anderson li...@margospatterns.comwrote: On Jun 13, 2009, at 1:52 PM, Kimiko Small wrote: Is it this one from Ninya's personal site? http://www.kissthefrog.co.uk/queen.html Yes! thanks! Margo ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] (no subject)
Definitly from Norris. I'm sure the item has a heraldic name, but I'm no herald. It's probably in the text, though. Just find a copy of Norris's Medieval volume (in english) and start digging! :) MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Wed, Jun 10, 2009 at 7:10 AM, Saragrace Knauf wickedf...@msn.com wrote: I think these are reproductions out of Norris, Kohler or one of the books they copied from, but I do have a question about the gown (0br.9 Pánská houpelande )on this page: http://www.kostym.cz/Cesky/III_14_03.htm Does anyone recognize the original painting from which this might have been derived? I am interested in the pattern on the fabric which is reproduced up in the the left hand corner. I'd be curious to find out if it really existed in a painting somewhere. Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What is this called?
I buy something like that online from clothilde.com. I believe they have more than one type. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 7:44 PM, Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.comwrote: I am making another costume and needed gridded pattern paper. When I was in college in the mid-1990s, the theater dept. used a gridded paper to make patterns. The paper was white, butcher grade paper and had dots to signify every square inch. Does anyone know what this paper is called and where I can purchase it? Can it be purchased at Joann's of Hancock? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Middle Eastern pant?
Sounds like a modification of one of the Sorouelles from Folkwear. http://folkwear.com/caravan.html MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 2:40 PM, Saragrace Knauf wickedf...@msn.com wrote: Hi all, I saw a pair of women's pants on someone who couldn't tell me much about them except that they were from a period pattern. They were close fitted from the waist to the hips (sort of yoke I guess). Then the rest which included the legs were like poofy like ballon pants. The bottom of the legs gathered into a button band. The extra fabric to make the legs big was pleated into the front (didnt' get to see the back), but the pleats were focused in about 10-12 inches of the middle lap. The lower leg, from just below the knee was made from a fancy patterned fabric, the rest was silk noil. Can anyone point me to what they might be...? Thanks! Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] question re: headkerchiefs
The 3-cornered kerch that several travelers reports describe on 16th century Highland Scottish women was more or less the triangular head scarf you're limiting to the 1940s. We only have descriptions, no pictures, but the descriptions are pretty unmistakable..It was also said to be remarkably graceful. It's only one of many thi9ngs you can do with the ubiquitous yard square of linen commonly used by 16th century working women. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9 Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Thu, May 28, 2009 at 4:43 AM, debloughcostu...@aol.com wrote: Sorry, but that description of a 'headkerchief'* resembles more of the 1940s, or an early modern neckerchief, than a head covering from any part of medieval times. *never heard the term 'headkerchief' before incidentally, although of course it was known as a 'coverchief' - I've always used veil for the bit that goes over your head (in earlier periods of one piece headdresses, this being the only part), and wimple for the bit that covers your throat (after it becomes a separate piece). Coif is indeed the accepted term for a small cap - although in theory it could be used to mean any headdress, I suppose, since it comes from 'coiffure'. And it's not only a female garment - in medieval times the caps that men wore are referred to as coifs too. Debbie In a message dated 27/05/2009 23:58:15 GMT Standard Time, h-costume-requ...@indra.com writes: On Wed, 27 May 2009 19:10:45 +0100 Anne anne.montgome...@googlemail.com writes: Could you describe more fully what you are terming a coif and a headkerchief? You bet! :-) Coif--the ubiquitous little cap-like thing everyone wore. Headkerchief--I suppose we'ld call them scarves nowadays. Take a square of fabric, fold it into a triangle, place on head, tie two points together in the back. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Tracking your projects
Kimiko turned me on to this servicce the other day, and it's really great for getting organized. Also it's aimed specifically at historical costumers, so we're all in good company. Check it out! http://www.projectarchive.org/ MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9 Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Help! Tear Away Stabilizer
I've always used Stich 'n' Tear. It's not iron-on. You cut a strip and lay it in the seam and sew through it, then tear away from both sides of the seam. Works lilke a charm. It's especially good when lining velvet with satin, which do not like to play nicely together otherwise. And it's heavy enough to stay in place and not tear before you're ready, like during pinning. Glad the tissue worked for you, Penny. I just thought I'd add this observation to the list MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9 Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Fri, May 15, 2009 at 1:28 AM, Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.comwrote: Many, many thanks to everyone who gave advice about working with organza. I tried the painter's tape method. My son is a painter and all we had in the house was expensive blue tape...it is supposed to stick better. It worked too well. It had leftover bits of tape in the seam that I had to pull out with tweezers. Maybe the cheap-o tape would work better. Next I used the tissue paper that you put in gift bags. This worked like a charm. At Joann's I bought tissue paper the same color as the dress. So if I left paper in the seam, it didn't show. I only had this happen once when I did a seam finish. The dress was beautiful! Thanks again! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] link??? Was: Large family
That and multiple remarriages can give one person a huge number of children and step children o ver a wide age range. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9 Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Thu, Mar 5, 2009 at 7:47 AM, Saragrace Knauf wickedf...@msn.com wrote: What post was this in reply to??? I must have missed the link...but I would bet your are looking at some donor picture where they painted every kid they ever had - even if it died young. Sg From: la...@hotmail.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2009 06:11:00 -0800 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Large family (Was Mary I -- FOUND) There is the old saying that Bach had 20 children because his organ had no stops Laurie From: zearti...@hotmail.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 21:49:20 -0500 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mary I -- FOUND ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Mary I ???
I think there's a redrawing of the sleeves in Norris, in a sleeves section as a mitred or mahoitered sleeve. It certainkly doesn't look like Holbein to me. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9 Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Sun, Mar 1, 2009 at 4:23 PM, Kimiko Small sstormwa...@yahoo.com wrote: I have a big book of Holbein's works, and that is no Holbein. Garment reminds me of something I've seen elsewhere... a Norris redrawing if I remember right. Ok, looked up Norris, and not in there. My guess is a Victorian reproduction of a possibly lost portrait. But the dress style is more late 1560s, early 1570s; which is much too late for Queen Mary Tudor or Holbein. Kimiko --- On Sun, 3/1/09, Saragrace Knauf wickedf...@msn.com wrote: http://z.about.com/d/womenshistory/1/0/Y/Q/2/mary_i_tudor_holbein_001a.jpg Anyone seen this one before - the image name indicates it is a Holbein?? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] [TheRenTailor] Image piracy - Anyone know who
They're all using the same text as well. If it's the same manufacturer, there's no problem. MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 ISBN 978-0-9818401-0-9 Available at http://elizabethan.org/compendium/paperback.html See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress On Mon, Mar 2, 2009 at 1:08 PM, Dawn d...@reddawn.net wrote: In this case all those links point to sites which sell clothing made by the same manufacturer. There's a dozen or more sites which sell this line, which is AFAIK not hand-made like a lot of stuff on ebay. In this case, then, they are all using the same manufacturer's catalog images to sell identical product. I believe they're allowed to do that as part of their sales contract. Dawn Anne Moeller wrote: How do they all get away with this? Is this legal? Anne That someone else's image seems to be popular: http://tudorshoppe.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=TTSScreen=PRODPro duct_Code=SS-BR http://www.grannd.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGYStore_Code=GSCateg ory_Code=lady-bum http://www.realmcollections.com/p2936/bum-roll.html http://www.highlandrags.com/bum-roll-p-401.html http://astore.amazon.com/thecostumersmani/detail/B000IO29FW http://www.replicadungeon.com/bum-roll.html http://www.by-the-sword.com/acatalog/Bumroll_VL-BR.html http://www.forestcreekrenaissance.com/catalog/item/4379326/4349504.htm ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
