KR>Engine run??
Must be a major block in that R carb, but the main Phil, use carb spray while running and fog over the inlet and make the right side hit. If the rpms go up and that side runs, then the carb is bad, maybe a jet plugged or not drilled out correctly. Exchange the carb for a good one. Also, check that the signal vacuum port underneath is not plugged up, or blocked. If no vacuum signal, no fuel flow; same with my Mikuni carbs on the Yamaha V-Star. Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net> ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Carbon fiber
With the possible exception being the actual control surfaces themselves, if things work out that you have to fabricate them separate. Otherwise, invest in something else that yield actual improvements, i.e. better engine, wheel pants, lighter high quality paint, Sensenich Prop, etc... Colin Rainey Licensed Mortgage Broker/Branch Manager BCR Capital Funding 386.615.3388 Home Office 407.739.0834 Cell 407.557.3260 Fax brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> gap seals
Larry said: but I recall that there is no aerodynamic gain in covering the opening with the RAF48 airfoil. It is my understanding that regardless of airfoil, that the primary benefit, and reason for the wing gap seals for ailerons is for the benefit to climb rate. The drag induced by the angle of attack allowing a significant amount of air to burble through this area and cause drag, regardless of airfoil is the reason for adding the seal. Almost all planes I have flown, in one way or another, seem to have addressed this issue, either through a seal, or the hinge and leading edge being mated like the elevator male and female surfaces (like a half moon formed into each surface for smooth actuation and little drag). Even Cessna Frise ailerons are mated with drag in cruise and climb a consideration by making the area where the hinge is mate with the least aerodynamic drag. Only when deflected do they cause the designed drag to balance the outboard lift/drag induced (but that is another story)... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> help with aileron linkage
John Look like things were bent to clear stuff and then others had to be bent to work. My suggestion is to cut an access panel opening as I did, and remove the assembly, straighten the parts, and then re-heat and cool gradually to re-temper (one of the engineer types jump in with specifics). Also, you need to add a 1 inch spacer to that pushtube to improve the actuation and lessen the wear on that bearing end. While you are at it, move the connection of the actuation cable inboard 1/2" like Larry Flesner and I did to make sure you will get full deflection of 15 degrees up and 20 degrees down. Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net> -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On Behalf Of John Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 10:41 PM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: KR> help with aileron linkage I just bought this KR2, and have a question, Please look at : http://67.183.105.62/index.html Is there anything wrong here? I did NOT build this, but it looks crooked to me. Any ideas? thanks Johng ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> AIG
For those that don't know, "AIG" stans for "Aetna Insurance Group"! Don Lively Don't know if it is the same one, but my AIG auto insurance is from American International Group, not Aetna. My auto insurance is a discount thru AOPA giving even lower rates, and beating the "gecko" hands down. So being a member does have perks, as well as protecting our airports, and privileges to fly! AIG is an umbrella company with many subsidiary insurance companies, auto and aviation just a few... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Any trailer plans for KR's
"I am interested in a trailer with folding front and rear axles and with collapsible/detachable soft top. That way I can also tuck the trailer in the garage (with the KR parked separately) thanks Bobby" Look here for ideas: http://trailerinabag.com/products.php Saw this product while working this year's Bike Week (no I did not get to ride this year). The last coming soon trailer is a flat trailer with 2000# capacity that breaks down and can fit into a bag and be carried away. The guy's wife (owner and wife) broke the trailer down after getting the bike off with no special tools and stored the trailer in the back seat of the truck king cab! With a little thought and a rack for the wings, one could do the same for a KR transport trailer. Or use a converted Airstream RV trailer as one builder did. This is the same builder that designed a coupling fitting that aligns the wing for easy attachment, and a tray to roll the wings onto and off the trailer. Colin Rainey N96TA
KR> LSA Certified ?
I hesitate to bring this up again, but I should be ready to have my Kr2s inspected in 2 or 3 months. I don't know if it is possible to get the plane listed as LSA. Ray and Netters Since your version of the plane is unknown how it will perform, you will have to test and prove that it performs within the LSA window. It may be a situation that only when flown solo, can the plane fly within the LSA criteria allowing a Sport Pilot to fly it due to stall speed etc... The key here will be DOCUMENTATION! Lots of it. They will only believe what they feel has truly been tested and proven, so the more documentation the better. Otherwise plan to use/get a PPL... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net>
KR> Corvair engine
Netters There is a Corvair engine for sale on eBay Item number: 220098284796 Big jump for any who need an engine already assembled for a great price. >From the looks of it you cannot buy and assemble it yourself for this price. Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> engine sold
Netters Engine sold thanks. Now back to other KR news... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Sterba prop data vs. Sensenich
Dan said: I have, and it definitely works. The difficulty is that you must not then try to climb again, and I have always had a hard time not doing that. I used to do it in my KR, and I have done in a C-150. The reason most people fly slow this way is because of an old way of teaching flying where alot of CFI's were commercially trained or bound, so they preached that pitch controls airspeed and power controls altitude. I have shown many pilots that this is not true in cruise, although in certain flight regimes it is true due to the configuration of the plane. The fact that a change in pitch results in an immediate change in airspeed is more of a function of change in prop blade angle and increased or decreased drag, which changes up or down the available thrust. I have flown with several pilots where they continue throughout the flight to continually add elevator back pressure and slow, causing power settings to go higher, and airspeed to fall off, while when I am at the controls, I keep reducing back pressure as the plane's speed increases, which allows for faster cruise at the same power setting. The key to learning this is learning to hold altitude to within 50 feet, with a relaxed, but constant instrument scan. This also take a gentle touch no matter what airplane you fly, because at cruise a little bit goes a long way. I do not like my altitude to change more than 20 feet, and more than 50 feet, I get mad! It is just a personal standard that I was trained at during commercial training and never quit. We used to tell pilots at Safety Seminars to try to fly at higher standards, not to be a pain, but to strive for a safer better standard and level of achievement. It can be done in a KR2 or S also. It just takes patience and practice. If you can hold 50 feet in a KR you can hold any plane! Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net>
KR> LSA Question
Any aircraft that meets the criteria of the Light Sport Aircraft
regulations (weight, speeds, number of seats, etc.) can be operated under
those regulations - there is no need to for an E-LSA certification! This
applies to normal certified aircraft and those certified as Experimental
Amateur Built.
Here is a link that includes all the aircraft to date the FAA agrees meets
LSA criteria:
http://www.sportpilot.org/learn/lsa/likely_lsa.html
Note the KR2 or S is NOT LISTED.
Recommendation is to call it something else and modify accordingly, if you
desire to certify it LSA. IF you certify Experimental Amateur Built as most
do, and it operates in the LSA criteria:
Aircraft with a standard airworthiness certificate that meet above
specifications may be flown by sport pilots. However, the aircraft must
remain in standard category and cannot be changed to light-sport aircraft
category. Holders of a sport pilot certificate may fly an aircraft with a
standard airworthiness certificate if it meets the definition of a
light-sport aircraft.
So Sport Pilots can operate a KR2 or S that operates within LSA Rule
criteria. BUT ITS CERTIFICATION WILL NOT CHANGE. It is just allowed to be
operated by a Sport Pilot since it operates in the criteria. Anyone wanting
to do this NEEDS to DOCUMENT WELL ALL TESTING that confirms compliance so no
questions will arise later. Then YOUR version complies. Here are the brief
pilot rules:
The sport pilot rule:
Creates a new student sport pilot certificate
Creates a new sport pilot flight instructor certificate.
Requires FAA knowledge (written) and practical (flight) test.
Credits ultralight training and experience toward a sport pilot certificate
providing the ultralight pilot transitions to a sport pilot certificate by
31 January 2007.
Credits sport pilot flight time toward more advanced pilot ratings.
Requires either a 3rd class FAA medical certificate or a current and valid
U.S. driver's license as evidence of medical eligibility (provided the
individual's most recent application for an FAA medical certificate was not
denied, revoked, suspended or withdrawn).
Does not allow carrying passengers for compensation or hire
Does not allow flights in furtherance of business
Allows sharing ("pro-rata") operating expenses with another pilot.
Allows daytime flight only.
Allow sport pilots to fly vintage and production aircraft (standard
airworthiness certificate) that meet the definition of a light-sport
aircraft.
Based on what is published today, with attention to details given and
testing that supports (make it real cause the FAA just might have a ASI fly
your plane just to see - don't put it past them) compliance, there is no
reason why the plane cannot be certified as all KR2 and KR2S models
previously have been, and then operate under LSA rules.
Source: EAA.org website
Colin Rainey
brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net>
KR> Termite
Winged termites mean they swarmed from some where so look for a source, like a rotted tree etc... If it is nearby, you will need to treat that site as well to prevent them coming back. Lowes and Home Depot sell a spray treatment that will kill on contact and then stay for up to 6 months. You need to treat immediately, and then while all your work is open for viewing, inspect all for tunnels and cracks. You can see small sticky piles of wood where ever they have bored into the wood. You will need to use a syringe to squirt chemical up into the tunnels as best you can to kill the larva as they hatch. Any areas suspect will have to be cut out or doubled for correct strength. I would not build anymore until all infestation is removed. Using a sharp awl or exacto knife to test the strength of the wood will allow you to probe for damage areas. The wood will give where boring has occurred. Good luck. Just cleaned the house out of infestation. Took out one whole side of the living room and one bedroom. Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net> -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On Behalf Of Nick Brennan Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2007 12:52 AM To: KRnet Subject: KR> Termite So today, I'm buzzing along, actually making a lot of headway (finished skinning one side of the fuse, now waiting for the glue to dry on the scarf joint on the other side) and I look at my work table and see a termine. Just one, little winged termite. Does this mean there are more that I'm not seeing, or is it possible to have one single termite? Also - am I ruined now? Nick Brennan nickdbren...@comcast.net ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> mixtures?
Dan Based on what Brian said I agree that may be some of the problem. I see a complete 180 for the 2/4 side where as the 1/3 side has a straighter shot. Try using this: http://www.turbonator.com/index.html This should get a good swirl going and even out the mixture available for all cylinders. If you still have a problem with 3 running that rich, look at that cylinder specifically: compression, valve seating, intake valve hanging open, etc... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Speed vs. HP
"You will probably see 250 mph with pants and 200 hp" It doesn't work like that in the air, like adding HP to a car and expecting speed increases. Mark's climb rate will definitely get a BIG jump, possibly the best in the bunch so far, if he can match a prop to it. But increasing HP does little to increase cruise or top speed after a point, especially for planes flying at or near 200 mph and up. Back a few months ago we discussed this at length, and all who have studied on this have agreed; more is gained by drag reduction than HP increase. To double the speed, drag is increased by 4 times. To get 250 mph from a KR2S, one needs to lose the front wheel, or work very hard on a completely aerodynamically faired leg, not just a cover, and the same holds true for the mains, and their legs. Now anything sticking out in the breeze becomes important; so that round strobe Mark has will have an impact at these speeds; any antennae should have a fairing, not just be left round; wing root fairings need special attention due to this area relating heavily to the highest lift area on the wing so also potentially the highest drag area; cowl flap(s) become a consideration to reduce drag; greater rake to the vertical stab, etc... "Speed with Economy" is definitely the bible here... There are a lot of pluses to using the Mazda 13B in aircraft with firewalls designed for their weight. But without alot of reinforcing, similar to the refit rebuild that the KR360 got, I think the Mazda is too heavy, and high output. Better to use a different engine with slightly less HP but just as much torque after the re-drive and stay with what your firewall/airframe can handle... JMHO... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net N96TA
KR> ICOM A-200?
Mark Langford wrote, Anybody heard anything good or bad about the ICOM A-200? Mark, Brian Kraut installs that model in boats all the time, with their frequency set in it, and he repaired mine that I sent him to test and installed it later in his Clipper I think that he sold to another guy. It is a good radio. It also comes with its own built in intercom, though I did not set mine up that way. Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net>
KR> Controls
Pete wrote:" Has anyone tried mounting their control stick on the forward side of the main spar?" If I were installing my own controls, all of them would be pushtube type, save the rudder. The easiest thing to do for the ailerons is to install a bellcrank on the rear of the main spar, to transfer motion from the stick to rear spar where a second bellcrank would send the motion out to the aileron bellcrank, which by plans has the synchronizing cable installed and running from wing to wing. This is replaced by the pushtube running from wing to wing, with the adjusting parts of the tubes behind the rear spar. This would eliminate the need for the front cables and associated pullies altogether, making your entire stub wing available for fuel. One of the netters had some really good pictures of the installation I am referring to, so it has been done once or twice at least. I would convert mine except I am still in the engine swap mode. I may still later... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> "fly-off" period after engine change
Larry Flesner said: Seems to me a simple log entry as to the engine change would suffice and go fly. I suspect that there are no two people in the FSDO/s or DAR's that will interpret the reg's the same. Don't forget that almost ANY change that could, not does effect flight characteristics (we used to include reliability for cya) needs a maintenance flight by a rated pilot certifying the airplane is safe and can return to service. Just a flight and log entry signed by the pilot making the flight and all good... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net>
KR> Timing for VW and others
Keep in mind also that the vacuum advance was used for spark retard under load when accelerating (not for gas mileage as some think) because the vacuum advance was hooked up to a manifold vacuum source (one that exists only at steady state rpms) and so would disappear on acceleration from any rpm. When the aviation industry started using auto engines, they wanted to use aviation carbs, and those carbs don't have vacuum advance mechanisms. Instead, they just use mechanical advance, and set them for total mechanical advance MINUS THE VACUUM ADVANCE IN THE TOTAL NUMBER. You DO NOT WANT TO USE THE TOTAL ADVANCE MECHANICALLY THAT WAS USED WITH A VACUUM ADVANCE. This cannot be done safely with fuels available today. YOU WILL DETONATE EVEN IF YOU DON'T HEAR IT! I have worked on hundreds of cars that had knock sensors on them, and have seen the sensor going off due to detonation, and never hear a ping or knock. With open exhausts typical of aviation engines it is even harder to hear it. That is why the TOTAL ADVANCE NUMBERS ON THE VW ARE 25 TO 28 (add 8 to 10 degrees for vacuum advance). Bottom line is that if you want more from your VW or Corvair than base plus mechanical, add a carb or fuel injection that offers vacuum advance, and add a vacuum advance distributor. If you are compelled to have separate ignition systems, get the universal MSD crank trigger system and MSD box for complete redundancy. I published the numbers a while back for the parts needed. Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> push pull cables
Pete They must be using something similar to the transmission shifter cables that push pull. Knowing that a 3 foot cable is like $24.95 or more, I would think this kind of setup would be pricey, and you would come out far cheaper just using the 2 cable runs that you can make at home with wire and crimper. The must use it due to space issues, etc... If it were alot more economical, I know Cessna and Piper would use it and they are not except maybe on the throttle, mixture, or prop controls. I would think that even a pushtube system would be should be cheaper... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Timing
Keep in mind also that the vacuum advance was used for spark retard under load when accelerating (not for gas mileage as some think) because the vacuum advance was hooked up to a manifold vacuum source (one that exists only at steady state rpms) and so would disappear on acceleration from any rpm. When the aviation industry started using auto engines, they wanted to use aviation carbs, and those carbs don't have vacuum advance mechanisms. Instead, they just use mechanical advance, and set them for total mechanical advance MINUS THE VACUUM ADVANCE IN THE TOTAL NUMBER. You DO NOT WANT TO USE THE TOTAL ADVANCE MECHANICALLY THAT WAS USED WITH A VACUUM ADVANCE. This cannot be done safely with fuels available today. YOU WILL DETONATE EVEN IF YOU DON'T HEAR IT! I have worked on hundreds of cars that had knock sensors on them, and have seen the sensor going off due to detonation, and never hear a ping or knock. With open exhausts typical of aviation engines it is even harder to hear it. That is why the TOTAL ADVANCE NUMBERS ON THE VW ARE 25 TO 28 (add 8 to 10 degrees for vacuum advance). Bottom line is that if you want more from your VW or Corvair than base plus mechanical, add a carb or fuel injection that offers vacuum advance, and add a vacuum advance distributor. If you are compelled to have separate ignition systems, get the universal MSD crank trigger system and MSD box for complete redundancy. I published the numbers a while back for the parts needed. Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Thrust Line issues
Don and netters Something else came to mind the other day when considering the effects of raised or lowered thrust line. During flight training to become CFI's we were always told that the reason the Piper Seminole was made with a high "T" tail as compared to its sister plane the Piper Seneca which had a traditional tail (and 2 more seats, but that is another story) is because the Seminole was really ear marked for the training market, and so Piper wanted the tail in "clean air". This was supposed to make it safer to flight train in. I am told that the same designer, later worked for Beech and designed the Duchess, which is why so much of the configuration resembles the Seminole. My point for this post is this: while in most cases planes are designed with the empennage "in the prop wash", some very successful designs are not. These planes seem to experience less pitch change due to the change in the amount of prop thrust over the elevator/stabilator, and the change is more a function of airspeed/airflow. If by raising the thrust line, one lessens the amount of prop wash over the elevator of a particular KR2 or S, that builder may find a nice softening of the effectiveness, without becoming dangerous. Then again it may favor one side only, causing good nose up authority, but lose some nose down authority. I would also think that if the builder then used a longer prop taking advantage of the greater ground clearance, he might not have any change in the behavior of the plane to speak of at all. Just some ideas for thought. I was once considering a PSRU or re-drive as some call them, for my 1915 cc VW original engine. Had I installed that, I would have been 4 to 5 inches higher. This may be an issue many builders have contemplated or evaluated. Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Good carbs
Bob said: There is a lot of people flying the Posa that would disagree with that post.Besides what do you call a good carb... There are alot of carbs that are just better designs. Mikuni in the same mm diameter of throat should work very well, and can be found in ANY motorcycle junk yard virtually ready to install. The same can be said for the Bing carbs (used by Rotax) and can be found on Seados and snowmobiles. Even Holley and Edlebrock now make carbs for Harley engines of the same cc ranges as the VW and even the Corvair (given that they are designed for higher rpms and so will work at the lower rpms, with less cfm demand. Use The Auto Mathbook to find you engine demand, then match the carb to it). The Averovee and of course the Ellison are other examples of drastic improvements. And of course then there is fuel injection made easy: http://www.lnengineering.com/fi.html Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Propeller book
For those that it matters to, here is the book that I spoke of; I finally found it. It is the reference that I used when analyzing what size pitch, blades etc... "Propeller Making for the Amateur" by Eric Clutton with forward by propeller maker Ray Hegy. Just food for thought. Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net N96TA
KR> 51% stuff
Dan and I think it was Ed were both right in different ways: Dan is referring to getting the Repairman's Certificate. Yes you have to build 51% or more or the DAR or FAA man will say that you do not have enough experience in the building to be granted Repairman Certificate status for your plane. The other standard that you guys are referring to is the standard of amateur built. If more than 51% of the aircraft being certified has been completed by others for hire, as paid assemblers, or the maker of the kit as examples, then the airplane must be certified under another Part like Part 23 etc... It cannot qualify as an Amateur Built Plane "...built for the builder's education and enjoyment". Colin Rainey N96TA brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Raising the Thrust line 5 Inches
Don I can recall someone talking about flying in a Lake Amphibian and stating that you get alot of pitch change when changing throttle settings in this airplane. Since the engine is on a pedestal mount at least 18 to 24 inches above the fuselage, I thought this might be relevant to this discussion. Obviously several problems that had to be overcome with this design would not be a problem with just 5 inches, but it would seem to me that if 18 inches could be safe with 150 to 200 hp engines, then 70 to 100 hp should be able to be tested and small modifications made to keep a KR2 or S safe. Biggest safety issues seem to be power on stall behavior, and how large changes in power settings up and down would effect pitch. If it is in the same centerline position I find it hard to believe there would be any yaw change to contend with. Then again I am not an engineer... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net>
KR> Wing incidence and washout
The only advantage that I can see to make the changes suggested is if the airplane was going to be a dedicated high altitude flyer. This suggested set up would eliminate the situation Mark L is describing of having his plane nose up at high altitude. The problem is that based on what I am hearing and have experienced in my own KR2, you will LOSE all the other good traits of the design. Look at Mark L's description of what happened when the builder (the name escapes me) that used a different airfoil in an effort to make the KR2 faster, which became the poster plane for the KR2S. Landings became very different as I expect the stalls did also. Plane was not kept for to much longer there after. Mark L has a great documentation of the new airfoil on his site. Use it as is, or else build the old RAF48 airfoil. I would hate for you to end up with an unpredictable stall, or nasty low speed characteristics! Colin N96TA
KR> Poll - KRnet email list or new forum?
I like what I have got. Not going online to vote, Virg Same here... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net> ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> fuel lines
Jeff Scott said: Using those hoses in a plane isn't a problem, but I would strongly recommend using firesleeve over them. A good rule of thumb to use is that no more than 12 inches of rubber hose be used. That was the rule for drag racing. This applied to the entire car, front to back. The solution was to use rubber line made for high pressure applications like fuel injection and cover with braided line, or use the braided steel lines from the factory on most domestic cars. One can easily acquire these lines from the junk yard by seeking out fuel injected V6 cars, and cutting the lines near the firewall where the steel or aluminum lines terminated and became braided for flexibility to the fuel injection rail. A compression tubing fitting from your local auto parts house will mate this back to your original line. The best cars are those with multi-port fuel injection as they had higher fuel pressure requirements than TBI units did. These lines are good for at least 80 psi, and if gotten from an early Volvo or VW fuel injection are good for over 100 psi (GM units are designed for 30-45 psi with 60-80 psi max; VW or Volvo early 240 & 760 models 80 psi max 100 psi). Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net>
KR> rudder size
Can anyone tell me if they feel the rudder size is adequate on the KR, especially in a heavy crosswind? I can tell you from actually flying my KR2, stock plans built, that the one thing you don't need more of is rudder. It has plenty of authority without being overly sensitive, or in effective at low speeds. I have successfully landed my KR2 in 25 knot 45 degree crosswinds, gusting to 35 knot (which puts the 90 degree winds at a total of 18 knots gusting to 25 knots according to my trusty E6B). Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Belly Board use
Brad and netters, I have a belly board like Larry Flesner's and would not trade it for the world! My belly board acts as well or better than any set of flaps I have used. I found that on my first flight, that my KR2 would not slow down on downwind, even at idle, and I thought I was going to have major problems getting it to land. When I deployed the belly board to first setting, 25 degrees relative to the bottom fuselage surface, I had a pronounced down pitching moment, giving better view, and a definite slowing of the plane, making me add power to maintain a constant glide. Once I turned base leg, and added the 50 degree setting, my KR2 came down on rails, just as smooth and straight, and constant descent. I was able to make an approach just like I could in a Piper Seminole. I could not have done that without the belly board, and stock flaps are just not effective enough. Mark Langford and several others have designed better flaps, I think Orma Robbins re-designed both the flaps and the ailerons by moving their hinge points to the rear spar to increase their overall area and effectiveness (see his picture of "Tweety" in past KR Gatherings). Brad if ground clearance is an issue, then mount it to the front/main spar. Once into a landing position/attitude, you should have adequate clearance. Mine is mounted to the rear spar, but I have Diehl conventional gear, so I sit a little higher. Larry sits even higher with his longer legs ( I think, sorry if I am wrong Larry ). My point is this: the stock KR2 or KR2S develops plenty of lift, too much when landing, more if Dan Diehl wing skins are used (longer wings). When landing the idea is for YOU to be able to determine when the flare occurs, not the plane. Mark L talks about it on his site and is the reason why he used split flaps instead of Fowler or standard flaps (among other considerations I know). I want to develop a simple but effective speed brake for the top of the wing also later. I used them on a Mooney and I fell in love with them. But that is another story. In my mind the speed brake/belly board makes the KR not just more flyable, but safer. More pilots are hurt or killed during takeoff and landing than any other phase of flight, and possible all other phases of flight combined. To be able to make the landings more consistent, predictable, and slower/more manageable, I see no reason not to have one. As Larry F says, your results may vary (ALOT!).... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> belly board use
I use my belly board like flaps. I am going to add the electric motor control from Van's this winter for activation. I apply the first setting currently 25 degrees just after turning base, or just before if I want to make a shorter approach. My theory, and what I have always taught is that you should always fly a pattern that will get you to the runway with loss of engine. Base to final or established on final I apply the last notch of 50 degrees. Once I acquire the new motor I will add a final short final setting of about 80 to 90 degrees relative to the bottom fuselage. I have no holes in mine and it works great. It is attached to the rear spar. So to answer the question: Yes I use mine like flaps of the trainers, a notch or setting on each leg of the pattern. This allows for a pretty tight pattern, flown at a reasonable speed, with lots of control. This was done in the past: 650# empty weight, 1200 max. (max weight flown to 1050#) VW 1915cc 52x42 Otto prop KR2 plans built, no mods by original builder except balanced ailerons and elevators, and balancing tab on rudder top Diehl wing skins approach rpm 1400 to 1500 dw 100 mph; base 95 to 90 mph; final 85 to 80; over the fence at 75 mph; numbers at 65 mph Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Hydraulic brakes
Yes, I had the R/R drum brakes at first but I never used them. Myron (Dan) Freeman I am unsure what you are building, I would be very nervous about having hydraulic disk brakes on a tail dragger. Pete Diffey Gentlemen, One reason to NOT use drum brakes is that they are OLD TECHNOLOGY! Drums react much slower than discs; they wear faster, warp when heated, lock up at unexpected times, which is why you got scared Pete; and are much harder to get quality parts for. My Cleveland brakes are the exact same as what is on the Cessna 152 from the factory and work flawlessly, as has EVERY aircraft that I have flown in the last 5 years. NONE of them use drum brakes! Period! Not meant as a slam Pete, just please do not send someone down a road that was abandoned a LONG time ago for a good reason. Hydraulic brake technology is so good now, you will find examples on everything from 4 runners to 4 wheel drives to family cars with 4 wheel disc brakes. Heck even go-carts now have disc brakes, though some may be mechanical versions. The key to good brakes is first a QUALITY system. Next is to maintain them well. Do this and you will have brakes that can be used while taxiing, landing (gently applied), and parking. Colin Rainey N96TA Taildragger ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Head studs treatment
Not to argue, just clarify, my manual states it this way: "In the 1996 Manual, I (WW) highly recommended pulling all the case studs, helicoiling the stud holes and replacing the studs in the holes. Many builders had trouble with this. If you feel that this is beyond your talents, you can always look for a set of cases that has intact studs." My manual doesn't come straight out and say so, but almost does, that they should be pulled and helicoiled. I guess the later manuals just state it more clearly. Thanks for clearing that up guys... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Buying KR parts
Hey Chris and welcome! Mark L has stated many times here that the original RR parts that can be ordered only fit a stock KR2 or S, and most are modified in length more than just the S; almost all new construction have stated they are definitely wider. This precludes the use of any of the pre-molded stock, as they will not fit the increase in width. It is your choice if you feel that modifying an existing piece, or making one from scratch is better. I can tell you that cost wise, scratch built is better. Depending on your engine choice, a Revmaster cowling might be a good investment. Grove landing gear is the easiest to install, but Dan Diehl seems to look the best from what builders report (mine is 5.00 x 5 Cleveland on Diehl conventional with Matco tailwheel). Most seem to like a canopy from Todd's or the Dragonfly supplier, but many still run the RR with mods for width. Dan Heath has a custom one, as does Mark Jones, Mark Langford. Mine is a Dragonfly that has been cut and dual gull wings made into the frame. Most builders seem to be looking at alternate sources of easier parts to work with, such as AS or Wicks, or Summit Racing (for belts, fuel tanks, MSD parts, etc...) I believe the Dan Diehl wing skins are still available, but the push now is the new wing designed for the KR2S, the AS504X. Mark L can hook you up with a download for wing templates to install, and his web page details the entire process of conversion or one off construction. Most will be dependent on how handy you are, how much imagination you have, and how much patience you have. The more you like to tinker and do it "your way", the more I encourage you to just learn all you can, and then build it your way, to suit you. Remember, ultimately you have to be happy with your creation, so it needs to fit YOUR BILL, not someone else's. Happy building.... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Diehl Case
Mike said: Or should I just buy a regulator and rectifier and diode and wire this system correctly? Unless it is not out putting any power, leave the wiring alone. The rectifier should be inside the case with the windings, per Dan and the box you see IS the regulator. If it is not outputting, the first thing Dan recommends is check the depth of the mounting bolts on any accessories mounted to the case: i.e.. starter, magneto, etc... If the bolts run too deep, they will short down the field and stop the production of current. This was the initial problem with mine. Once I made sure that the bolts only seated the depth of the case thickness, the current began to flow as designed. Dan told me this the first time I called and spoke to him (he is very nice and helpful) and must a common mistake for him to go straight there first. He can sell you any parts necessary or direct you to a local supplier for the exact right parts if needed. Call him first. He designed and built it. Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Flight report
Mark said: RPM: 2900 Exhaust temp: 1250 Oil PSI: 35 CHT: 280 Indicated MPH: 125 I don't believe Mark's numbers are that far off either. Given his prop, I made right at that speed, with RAF 48 wings, 54x48 prop (really 50 pitch) turning 2900 rpm on a VW and 125 to 130 mph. I think he has a clean plane, or as clean as mine was, and as our discussion agreed earlier, cruise is more of a function of lack of drag, then other factors (although they all play a part for sure). Speaking of drag, Mark may be up against a little bit of what the Spam cans are up against. He is heavier AND more stable with a more forward CG. This means at cruise he has a higher angle of attack than say Mark L, or maybe even mine, since mine is a KR2 plans built and header only tank (no comment for or against). How much more angle of attack I don't know, but it seems with these little planes, every little bit of something makes a difference. I know mine is definitely more "busy" at cruise with the weight of two on board, and my CG hits 1/2" from the agreed upon limit (not using the last 2 inches Ken originally published). This may account for similar speeds with lower hp and less pitch, but same disc area, and similar fuse (we are a tailwheel also), due to lower angle of attack/drag. I do think that Mark probably did not have carb icing, as Brian hinted at, especially if it cleared up nearly immediately. This almost never happens with carb icing. It usually seems to worsen with the application of the carb heat, because it further richens the mixture aggravating the condition temporarily. Gradually the rpms will recover to almost the point prior to the rough running. If when Mark applied carb heat, the engine almost immediately began running better, I would be more inclined to believe that the heat was now causing better atomization and mixing, restoring the lost power. The 20 minutes of flight prior would have been time enough for the engine heat to be lost after his warm-up and engine run up check, and the heads to be cooled to the point that even inside the cowling air was just not hot enough, especially with that same air circulating around those free standing intake tubes. Couple this with cooling from the fuel itself, and you would have a significant problem. At least for Winter use, I would plumb a tube from the exhaust, maybe with a valve for shut off, or with an inexpensive thermac vacuum sensor that responds to temp, directly blowing on the carb to warm it, or duct the intake air that way full time, just like a car has for cold startup cold running. Even today alot of fuel injected cars have it. Gotta be a reason, and this seems like a good reason to me... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Engines
Would you suggest I keep it or go ahead and rebuild a Corvair? -Jeff Wilder Jeff you cannot buy and rebuild a Corvair engine with the correct aviation parts for $1200. Cannot be done. Possibly for $3500 or $4000, but not $1200. The parts alone from WW are over $2500, then another $2000 of you get quality rebuild parts, or more. If you are happy with the VW, rebuild it. If you want more torque, but are already set up for the VW, add the redrive from Culver Props/Valley Engineering, get the torque multiplication, a prop to match and happy flying. Trust me the changeover takes much longer! Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> header tank
Oscar said: Inquiring minds want to know just what the deck angle might be on climb out... Thinking of some racing technology, why not install the fuel line/pickup at the rear of the tank, maybe adding a small sump to make the lowest point at the rear middle of the tank (it would then be closest to the pilot). Circle track cars have their tanks made this way (can be bought pre-made and foam filled from Summit and Jegs) with their outlet at the right rear corner so that as they turn left around the track, inertia/centrifugal force assists in fuel delivery. Since on climb out any G force from the climb is focused to the rear wall of the tank, it would make sense to have the pickup located there to allow gravity pushing fuel to the rear of the tank to assist in its delivery. Holley carbs have their front bowl designed this way to help keep the jets covered, and offer jet extensions to try to keep the rear jets covered during acceleration. Maybe combining this with a vent tube run to the bottom of the firewall, and facing forward would allow for better flow and better venting/mild pressurizing from under the cowling air pressure (see Mark Langford's site for a graphic of the pressure distribution on the cowling). Keep in mind I have NOT done any of this. I am merely throwing out some ideas for those pilots who have KR's with header tanks, like I have and do not want to replace them, or cut into my wings at this point. If we can make them safer on fuel delivery, though that does not address the CG issues. I plan to install a rear tank with a fuel pump to re-fill the header tank when over half has been used and I have a passenger. I have flown my plane solo, at near empty fuel and had very good control, stable plane. The numbers for the CG were right in the middle of the spar, keeping in mind that my seats are 5 inches further forward than an unaltered KR2 plans built. It is just when flying with a passenger that the CG walks backwards excessively as fuel burns (stated many times before; mine is 1 inch in front of the spar solo full fuel and moves to the center from full to reserve). I will be using my fuel return line with a "Y" in it for the rear tank refill, with a check valve to prevent back flowing into the rear tank, since I will be using fuel injection. But I know LOTS of planes still use and will use carbs and gravity flow.... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Spar bolts at WAFs
Larry H said: 4 bolts each spar on one side or 8 little bolts per side or 16 total on both sides. Some may have used 4 per side but if so use a compression spacer between fittings. Probably safest to go the 16 piece route. I bought my KR2 plans built after all was built and just needed mods to fit me and my airspace here in Florida. One of the changes that my builder did was to carry the spar all the way thru the WAFs until even with the ends of the WAFs. This made the spar itself the compression spacer, as the long bolts have to pass thru the main spar when installed. The short bolts use a spacer in between the WAFs at the rear. 2 large bolts for the main spar, 2 small bolts for the rear spar with spacers. All bolts installed from the front so if the nut fell off (God forbid!) hopefully the bolt will be held in by what little air pressure they see (maybe). My old bolts when I bought the plane were AN 6 or 8 (I think 8's) with friction nuts. I have replaced them with brand new AN8's with castle nuts and drilled bolts from AS After several installs I did not trust the bolts integrity any more so for like $20 I feel better. The main spars are barely botched to allow the WAF from the outer wing panel just enough room to insert form connection. It is harder to align for one bolt top and one bottom, but I feel better about the fact that it IS aligned with one bolt. Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Fuel pumps
Larry said: I'm convinced that's what smoked it. Please take note; this IS GOOD INFO FOR ALL FUEL PUMPS ELECTRIC! Typically they are COOLED by the fuel that passes through them while they are running. I have seen countless bulletins sent to auto technicians warning running tanks dry during trouble shooting and warning to educate consumers if they think that they have POSSIBLY run out of gas, get some before continuing to try to crank the vehicle because as long as the computer "sees" rpms it will energize the pump to run even with no gas (no sensor there). Externals will dissipate the heat a little bit better but will still die... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> ARP bolts
The only place that I have seen ARP bolts used is in rod bolts. WW does recommend that the rod bolts get this treatment when they are reconditioned. Like Mark said block mounting studs stay in Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Summit header tank
What would be the best way to install/fit a Summit tank?? Look thru the list of tanks offered from Summit and see which one is close to the dimensions of your header tank set up. You can get a tank mounting kit with bolts and straps. Then cut those straps to fit the fuselage, and using an extra longeron on top of the primary running down the side, mount the straps there, if making removable. Otherwise, use foam to surround for a good bond and glass into place, maybe floxing the straps first. You may want to set in place first and run lines for easier access if the tank will not be able to be removed. Specifics on lengths and exact procedures will be difficult because no two KR's have the exact same dimensions... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> WW manual
I don't know what year manual you have, but mine purchased just two years ago says NOT to pull studs unless they are damaged because every blown head gasket he WW has seen has been due to pulled studs. He says if it is damaged to Helicoil the holes to repair, and details a procedure for this, on Page 38. He definitely DOES NOT recommend removing studs if making a 2700 into a 3100 due to clearance issues. Unless this has been edited since then, my manual #6528says NO! Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> FSDO
Hi all; I assume that an FSDO is a FAA inspector, and I know what a DAR isbut just what do those initials spell out to? Flight Standards District Office. The Inspector will either be an ASI = Aviation Safety Inspector (Airframe & Powerplant) or SPM = Safety Program Manager (one is the inspector, the other is his boss). DAR = Designated Airworthiness Representative; the civilian version of the ASI. ASI's have 4 divisions: Pilot/Certifications Operations (Part 91 & Part 121/135 Inspectors) ; Airworthiness; Avionics; Air Traffic Control. DPE = Designated Pilot Examiner; civilian version of the ASI Part 91 Inspector who among other things does check rides. How does this apply to KR's? It helps to politely ask what does the ASI or SPM do. If he is an ASI A, he is not your best source for a good answer for a question concerning Part 91 Reg interpretation. Ask to speak to an ASI for Part 91 Operations. They train for a complete year in Kansas City for this position (don't ask how I know this --- hhhgg), so they are very good at what they have been trained to know. Also most FSDO's have a duty desk that each ASI takes a turn at one day a week, several times a month. So just because he is an ASI answering the phone, does NOT mean he is schooled in all the ins and outs of your question. This may also explain why alot of pilots have gotten vague or incomplete answers from the FAA; it is not their field of expertise, not because they want to be vague on purpose. I have worked closely with FSDO 15 in Orlando Florida for a number of years and I still get the I don't know or I am not sure from an ASI or SPM, if it is something they are no schooled on or a division they don't handle. Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Flight report mixtures, hhhhhmmmm.
Mark Glad to hear that you are back up flying and more dependable than before. Your experience is something that I brought up some time ago, and I hope did not go unnoticed. Especially at altitude, ALL ENGINES NEED SOME HEAT. This is because the fuel and air will separate if the mix is too cold and the fuel will begin collecting in places of lower air flow, by condensing on the walls, and then be swept into the next cylinder during its intake stroke. Races cars run into this alot when running intakes that have an air space under the carb where engine heat cannot warm the intake. The incoming air is just too cold, then it accelerates in the carb throat, and then no heat in the intake, so it never properly mixes. This leads to a rich then lean surge and cut out. A look at Lycoming and Continental engines shows their intake runners run THROUGH the oil pan to get heated air by picking up engine heat from the oil. Then look at the Corvair engine intakes: runners that never touch the engine except by supports. Same with alot of VW guys. Dan's plane will probably now not have that problem because he will have much shorter runners and get heat from the engine by sitting on top of it. Bill Clapp reports the least amount of mixture problems from what I have read here, and he draws air from inside the cowling all the time. Ram air is great for wide open throttle for max power. But I would bet for OUR applications, heat applied to the mix will give much better fuel economy and use, and overall make our flying safer and more reliable. JMHO Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> weight and speeds
Netters I am going to take some liberties here, so please don't flame if I over generalize or leave a technical piece of data out. Most of what I post here is general information, subject to the constraints and specifics of a particular application anyhow. A short time ago I posted a comment about weight and I think Larry Flesner (sorry if not you) stated that weight is not really a factor in cruise but is in climb and takeoff distance. I have to respectfully disagree. Here is why: In all planes the weight lifted determines the angle of attack that the airplane must have in order to achieve enough lift to overcome gravity. When the weight of the same plane goes up, more lift must be made to overcome this greater inertia to stay Earthbound, even in level flight. I realize that I am leaving out ALOT of other factors, but I am trying to make a simple point (if one can do that in aviation) about the effect of weight on a plane. Given proper loading so that the CG is similar at gross weight to solo weight, the same plane will have to have a greater angle of attack at climb and cruise at the higher weight. It has more weight to lift, so must make more lift. This greater angle of attack may be a little or alot, depending on if the CG moves favorably or not, etc... This is why some planes have little speed loss when loaded with two, and others have alot of loss. More angle of attack means more lift and MORE DRAG. Climb rate is a function of the surplus power or thrust available above that required for cruise to maintain level flight. So if you have an 80 hp engine and you need 40 hp to maintain level flight solo, but 45 at gross weight due to the increased weight drag caused, then you will climb with 35 hp (80 - 45 = 35) instead of 40 due to the higher weight. Higher weight will effect your approach speeds also. Brain Kraut can relate to this one very well, as can others. The heavier you are the faster you need to be, to maintain the same rate of descent and control. If you slow to solo weight/speed you are too slow, because it takes more lift to do all the same things that you did solo. So, the paradox: either you jack in more power to maintain the same speeds as solo and fly behind the power curve ( NOT GOOD; loss of engine here means crash), OR you increase your approach speed slightly, say 5 knots/7 mph as a safe guess, and get alot better control. It is the same with winds. Add half the gust factor, or (I add this) half of the crosswind component to my approach speed. Gives me great control, and allows me to deal with the wind on the ground, where the KR2 has its strong suit; it is great in ground handling. Why would you want to fight in the air when you can control on the ground?! These are principles that I teach in all planes, not just KR's. I do understand that some KR's have a rearward CG when loaded fully and this may seem to over come the problems at cruise. I do not disagree with this. Just remember, that this increase in speed comes at a price of stability (you are closer to the rear limit of the CG and control). This makes spin recovery much more difficult, higher landing speeds due to lack of elevator arm in a rear CG configuration, and can lead to a flat spin if conditions work out right (or wrong really). Be careful... Hope this helps some Colin Rainey Independent Loan Officer Branch 2375 Apex Mortgage Company 386.615.3388 Home Office 407.739.0834 Cell 407.557.3260 Fax brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> N202RH sometimes they don't fly right out of the box
Don Chisholm replied: Cool rahu...@peoplepc.com wrote: Netters - this is going to be rather long and will contain content regarding the KR2 as LSA compliant - so be warned and delete now if you desire. This kind of response from Don is exactly what Mark L and Mark J are referring to as totally wasted band with and unnecessary It should have been directed to just Rick, or at the very LEAST cut the entire message out except a sentence for clarification! Instead the netter just hit reply sending ALL of the original post again, for what? One word of praise! Come on guys it is getting old! Sorry for getting on a soap box.. Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net> ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Certifications
Rick Call your local FSDO and ask the actual FAA not a DAR. Make sure you can go one way or the other in your area. Another netter posted how he had lots of problems with a certified plane that in another area, such as here in Florida would have been fine. Check with the authority, and good luck. Let us know how it goes, because there is a definite interest on building LSA compliant if it can be done AND approved... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> aileron weight
I will ad this about aileron weight, except it applies to the elevator weight. Burt Rutan years ago issued the closest thing to an AD for the Varieze and Longeze about making the canard elevators to the correct weight, due to two aircraft experiencing flutter and the elevator disintegrating in flight causing the two planes to crash with no survivors, with heavy elevators. I am not trying to be gross, just reinforce the importance of building properly, and taking your time to get it right, if necessary like Mark L. and make some parts 3 and 4 times. To bring this closer to home, my particular plane had a flutter of the elevator when using the belly board above 90 mph, or more than 50 degrees activation, according to the original builder. He had learned to fly around it, by not using the board until slower etc... Well this did not sit well with me so I went looking. Like Brian, I too found a BIG discrepancy with the controls of the elevator. It seems the cables were apparently different lengths, so that at full aft actuation, one cable went partially slack, while full forward both were tight. Having had my fair share of trainers that had seen more than enough hours, and been able to rotate the yoke 10 to 15 degrees each way without aileron deflection, but had been signed off as acceptable, and had two separate occurrences of having to fly two airplanes back to the airport with broken/runaway trim systems, I decided on my airplane I would limit the use of cables. I installed dual sticks bought from Brian (thank you) and pushtube direct to the elevator. I left cables on the ailerons and rudder, figuring if I lost one of them, I could use the other to fly around the problem to get back down and repair, but that there was no substitute for the elevator, and most KR owner/pilots had commented that it was hard if not impossible to fly the KR safely with just trim. The system I built is over built yes, but I have complete faith in it, and the DAR complemented on the system, saying I could not be too careful with that part of the control system (within reason of course). Netters that have been here awhile will also remember that I asked and received alot of guidance from Larry Flesner, and Dan Heath on the problem I had with my ailerons not being synchronized. The right wing actuated 30 degrees up and only 5 degrees down, while the left wing 5 degrees up and 15 down. Those cables were also off and needed balancing in length. Once they were adjusted properly, I then found that I was not getting 20 up and 10 down as prescribed. By changing the push tubes to a correct length one that was also operating in a flat plane as suggested by Dan, and by re-drilling the bellcrank as Larry suggested, I was able to get the proper actuation. My bet is that either or both of these conditions could have led to flutter if I had not corrected them during my refit. The elevator did flutter at a very low speed, and the original owner was very lucky not to have the plane break up in flight (maybe the slower speed helped with that at 100 mph). Hope this helps some builders at this stage or later on their building/inspections... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Props
Theoretically a 3 bladed prop that is pitched the same as a 2 bladed (same manufacturer is best) and is the same disc area of length, the 3 bladed should make approximately 17% more thrust than the 2 bladed, or behave like the same 2 bladed prop but 17% longer. I cannot recall the author's name right off, but if interested I will look up the book and post it here. The author's formula in my specific case said that my 3 bladed prop at 54 inches would perform just like a 2 bladed of the same pitch that was 58 inches long (.93 times the 2 blade length). As has been stated here many times, there are several factors that go into prop selection, number of blades and pitch only two of them. However, I will make some generic observations for the group that apply to those that are beginning to push towards higher horsepower and torque engines: 1) Multi-bladed props climb better than 2 bladed props, as a rule. 2) Multi-bladed props are known to be easier to balance, and inherently more balanced (two sources confirm this). 3) Multi-bladed props tend to be a little to much quieter than 2 blades in operation. 4) Higher HP aircraft almost always use multi-bladed props; I am deducing because they cannot swing a 2 bladed prop long enough to handle all the torque they have, and convert it to thrust (this may be of interest to 3100cc Corvair guys etc...). We happen to be small aircraft that some people are beginning to experiment with higher HP engines, but still have the problem of ground clearance, so the answer? Multi-blades... I too will be running a 3 blade Warp Drive once I settle on which engine I will install (already have the prop). Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Props
Fred said: "If a three bladed prop is so much better than two ..." Here is my point: EVERY turbo prop engine I have ever seen is a 4 bladed prop. AND they are constant speed with beta mode (most of them allowing reverse thrust). So if 2 blades was THAT much better, than they would not go to the expense to make a 4 bladed hub with adjustment. I don't know what a hub for a Pratt & Whitney PT6 costs, but the replacements for an IO 540 when I was teaching exceeded $20,000 a piece, and that was for a 2 bladed. Closer to home, almost every Ultralight I have seen run 3 or 4, and some run 5 bladed props, running similar engines to KR's, and with similar horsepower to ours. Sorry Peter, but the P51 was running a version of the Rolls Royce Merlin Engine (not the stated Radial, but an inline 12 cylinder) which developed close to 1500 hp, and no 2 blade at the time could put that kind of thrust to the air. I bought a text written by an aeronautical engineer, called How to Build Your Own Propeller, I believe that I got it from AS (ok no flaming the vendor), and he is the one that stated that a 3 bladed prop would perform some 17% better, that a 4 bladed prop nearly 20% better, etc... This is qualified of course with some critical comparison factors being the same. No matter what you have been told by the "local" guy, my research is showing that the crowd pleasing 2 blade prop is used most by the lower end hp and torque guys almost completely due to cost and weight benefits. Most of you direct drive guys cannot run the average 4 blade due to weight, and might be too close to run a 3 blade. Also, the additional thrust developed by the additional blades may cause some lower torque engines to bog down, and actually lose thrust. Randy, common sense says that additional blades make more thrust, or no one would install them. I can illustrate literally hundreds of planes that have benefited from multi-bladed props, slow and fast. Also be aware that many sources of information about props relates to certified aircraft that cannot even change their original prop without an STC. C152, and C172 have 2 blades due to price and use. For the cost they best fit the bill. Most VW guys have to run a wooden prop due to cranks cracking otherwise. I suspect that may be the long term consensus for the Corvair as well. I cannot argue that for the money, nothing beats a well made 2 bladed wooden prop, if it matches the engine. Yes a multi-blade will always make more drag than a 2 blade, no argument. Larry said, and I don't disagree that under ideal matching, a 2 blade should out perform a 3 blade in cruise, especially under 200 knots with lower hp engines (say under 150 hp). But, I have seen the actual results of the same plane with the same engine, swap a 3 blade where a 2 blade was previously, and it out climbed said 2 blade with no other modifications. The author of my book said so also, and I have seen the fpm results. It was not done just to look good. Cessna comes standard on the C-182 with a 3 bladed Hartzell constant speed prop. There is no way they would incur the extra cost unless there was a solid benefit. Mark L. said it a little while ago; encourage anybody doing solid true experimenting. They are how we got this far to begin with. The Light Sport Airplane, and Ultralight guys are leaving us in the dust with updates. There are guys running engines on Trikes that make more torque than the VW or Corvair, and that is what makes thrust not hp, and are continuing to make hundreds of hours, with fuel injection, computer controls, re-drives, and multi-bladed props. I am not knocking anybody here. I am just saying, if there are good solid ideas that other flyers are proving, maybe we should give a hard look to how they could benefit us as well Colin Rainey N96TA brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> New Prop
Jim said: I ned a new prop 60 x 65 or more pitch Jim are you sure you need more pitch? Is your climb rate really good, and you are over rpm at cruise? I ask because I read an article/post not long ago by someone, possibly a netter that made some very good points about improper prop evaluation due to low performance. This post/article talked about how it seems more pitch is always recommended, but not always correct. Sometimes to get the performance desired, less pitch, and possibly even more or less length is needed. If the disc area is too great for the engine to spin up, than low rpm will result. If too high a static rpm, and cruise rpm is being seen, then typically a longer prop same pitch or same length and more pitch is the answer. Check multiple sources. Netters talk about Ed Sturba; Valley Engineering/Culver Props is another; Mark L. and others have had great success with Sensenich (though they are pricey). It never hurts to check Ebay either. I got a good prop from another builder there, and was very happy with it. Best of all the price was great! Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Merry Christmas
I know this is not Kr stuff, but Merry Christmas to all netters! Hope everyone has a safe and happy holiday. This is not meant to start a rash of Goodnight Bobby Joe, etc... emails Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> vacuum
Behalf Of Rick and Pam Subject: KR> vacuum can the VW motor develop vacuumed to run an attitude indicator? Rick The best thing to do that is easiest from all that I have seen, and still keep it simple, is to buy the large vacuum venturi from Wicks or AS, that will support both AI and DG. It can be mounted right under the plane, check out Steve Jones' plane pictures for location, and eliminates the failure of the drive shaft and the mounting hassle of the vacuum pump. VW's don't have the drive for it, so you will have to use something similar to a ignition mag drive, but turning the correct rpms. You will need to use a vacuum regulator, but should find it ALOT easier to get installed and setup. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/venturi3.php Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net> ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Mag Compass
J Milland said: I was taught this back up emergency method in instrument training about 50 years ago I understand very well how the compass, works, BUT The Airplane Flying Handbook, printed by ASA approved by the FAA as the approved Private Pilot Manual, states to use the SOUTH heading due to the increased sensitivity in a Southerly direction, and the correct behavior of direction, just a slight lead if the pilot is also using rudder pedal inputs only, but the compass card is easiest to read due to NO DIP ERROR, which WILL occur in an Easterly or Westerly direction. Alot of teaching has changed in aviation in 50 years that was once thought to be good, but now has been shown to cause problems. One is the lack of instrument training, which the new PTS requires (the old thinking was that more IFR/hood training encouraged inadvertent IMC flight); the other that immediately comes to mind is the spin training of Private Pilots. "In the day" all students were required to be taught and demonstrate spins. Later it was found that spin awareness, and avoidance was better; actual spin training encouraged exploring spins on their own. Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> retracts
Marc and netters It has been said many times, so I won't get into the nitty gritty details here but: 1. There are those that have had a gear up and those that will... 2. Well designed fixed gear, with well designed fairings have been shown to fly faster in nearly all cases over retracts, when it comes to aircraft that fly 200 mph or less. The drag reduction is just not enough to justify the extra weight, etc... 2 such cases: first the Piper Archer vs. the Piper Arrow. Both equipped with the same engine, avionics, etc.. the Archer is lighter, so has a higher useable load, higher cruise speed (when wheel fairings are used), and has more fuel capable for greater range. AND it insures for less due to the fact that it is not a Complex Airplane (adjustable pitch prop, retracts, and flaps). Second: the original KR2 with retracts vs. the KR2 with fairings: given the same engine/prop/weights, the fixed gear is 10 to 30 mph faster, depending on how clean the fuse is. It is lighter, yielding once again greater speeds capable (and lower stall speeds), better climb, and longer range. AND don't forget that annual maintenance (if it lets you get to the year end) to keep up the retracts. Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Retracts
I feel a contest coming on.. But how to do it... These things must be done delicately.. I mean scientifically. Rich and netters, I have already illustrated a factual circumstance of a certified plane (which some believe is the benchmark we are all measured by), that were identical except for the systems and equipment necessary for retractable gear: The Piper Archer PA28, constant speed prop with 201 hp Lycoming engine, and The Piper Arrow constant speed prop with 201 Lycoming engine, and retracts. More fuel, more empty weight, and better speed due to lower weight for same load, and longer range. No one can argue that lighter climbs better, goes farther, and cruises faster, given the same fuse, engine, etc... The same thing applies to the guys that have an RV7 or 8 and install a Lycoming IO-540. They cannot go faster due to design limits, but they climb better, and cruise at a lower rpm. They have more hp, but carry the same or more weight, so cruise is not higher, but the engine turns less rpms. A KR2 or S model given retracts and then fixed gear with proper attention, and the same engine will cruise faster at the same power output rpm, and climb faster, due to lower overall weight. Why do you think that your plane performed s much better with the instructor out during solo? Harder to land yes, because he was not there so you were lighter and floated more! IF the same size and weight wheels are used, and brakes, installing fixed gear will ALWAYS result in better climb, and if FAIRED in properly for drag reduction (same idea of the retracts), will yield a higher cruise. This is due to the lower weight with the same drag component to the available thrust. Look at the typical lower class air racer, running under say 150 hp, and 1 or 2 seat airplane; ALWAYS fixed gear are the fastest. They know what makes speed. Clean lines and light weight. NO RETRACT system is as light as a fixed gear. Same thing applies to the tail wheel vs. the tri-gear; ALL the tailwheel designs are 5 to 20 mph faster depending on how clean they are over similar trig-ear models. Now if you retract guys took the time to design a FULLY retracted model with DOORS, similar to the Lancair IV or Cirrus, then you might be able to come close to convincing me with under 200 mph aircraft like ours. Where retracts really come into their own is over 250 knots. Then you are talking BIG benefits, but that is a whole 'nother story... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Spins and training
Correct me pls, but I thought the main reason for removing spinning from the sylabus was a number of fatal accidents during spin training. Yes the number of fatal accidents is the reason, but not during training, but after the checkride. Too many Pvt Pilots were demonstrating spins to their friends, and getting killed, so says two of the Safety Program Managers at FSDO 15 that I am in the FAA Safety Program with. However, it is also true that the largest number of accidents, and unfortunately, the highest number of fatalities is with a CFI on board. There was a sick joke going around the schools that if you wanted to have an accident, take a CFI along. So you are MUCH better off taking an orientation ride in a fellow KR pilot, than taking a CFI along in your plane! Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> blades
airplane a 2 blade prop is more efficient as the third blade is only more drag as the extra bite you might get from the third blade is not I imagine this discussion like many others can go on for quite awhile, since there is as much evidence both ways, but I will site in defense of multi-blades, every King Air Beechcraft has made, along with every Beech 1900 transport plane in service. They produce speeds much higher than the KR2 or S is designed to see, and all use a 4 bladed prop. Granted they are also using adjustable props, but I think the key is to match the number of blades to the horsepower available, and length capable, in order to positively say 2 or 3 or 4 is right for the application. My take is that the higher horsepower applications have to use 3 or 4 bladed props in order to be able to make thrust from the available hp, because they will either have to have too long of a 2 bladed prop, or they will make a 2 bladed stall or overspeed with just too much hp. Many air racers I have seen have 3 or 4 bladed props. Even helicopters have more than 2 blades depending on their hp and lift/thrust needs. Multi-blades is definitely smoother and easier to balance. My research shows that if you have the hp, and want the climb rate, 3 or 4 blades is quieter, smoother, and a 3 blade will produce approximately 15% more thrust, or behave like a 17% longer prop, and a 4 bladed will be close to 20% according one author I read (I will look it up if anyone is curious). That is why I will run a 3 bladed Warp Drive. I have read of two netters already that have run first a 3 bladed Warp Drive then a Sterba with no appreciable increase in speed, but probably a drop in climb rate. Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Need opinions
Randy said: I am studying my ground school(King private pilot knowledge test) and this spring im going to do my 40 hours and become a pilot!!! My personal opinion Randy is since you have lots of time, find a tailwheel airplane to do all your primary instruction in. By the time you pass your check ride, you will be so competent at tailwheel operation, that you will have no trouble at all with your KR2 or S. As a CFI with nearly 1000 hrs dual given to students, I can tell you that initially it will be a bigger challenge, but overall it will be no different from training in a spam can C150 or C172. All the air work will be the same, all based on the speed ranges of the plane, but procedures are identical. Remember that MANY young pilots took their first lessons in a J3 Cub, or Jenny bi-plane before the Cessna clan became popular. Just find a CFI who gives tailwheel transition training, and sign up with him to do all of your private pilot training. The key to being a good tailwheel pilot is always fly the plane on the ground or in the air (same for tri-gear), and give yourself enough time to become comfortable with the aircraft, and then just alittle bit more. I had just over 1250 hrs when I got my tailwheel endorsement, and was signed off after 2 flights in a Citabria, at grand total of 2.1 hrs. But I also had 10 other models of aircraft to my credit at that point, and over 800 hrs dual given, to add to the experience book. You have read of many different totals from alittle to alot required. It is an individual thing and should only be used as a reference, not a guarantee of time required. The book says a minimum of 40 hrs training, 20 dual, 10 solo, and 10 either, but few do it in that amount of time. National average a few years ago was running about 80 hrs, and most of my students were not ready to pass a check ride until at least 50 to 60 hrs. The key there is to fly regularly, and at least 3 times weekly. Weekends only makes Saturday review day and Sunday progress day. Better if you can fly daily or every other day. The same when getting used to your KR. Taxi daily or at least every other day for the first 5 to 10 hrs to get so familiar that you are almost bored. When the reactions are somewhat automatic instead of thought about, you are ready to high speed taxi. I had the benefit of a 10,000 foot long runway for taxi testing, so I could lift off for short "hops" and then land the plane. After 3 trips of this, I took off and began climb out, when I noticed that my ASI promptly quit working, the unfortunate victim to an unseen dirt dauber nest in the PTO tube. By paying close attention to the sounds of flight, and the control feel, I was able to lap the pattern, and land without incident. Built correctly, a KR2 or S is a great little plane. Keep that CG right and have fun.... Colin Rainey N96TA KR2 taildragger brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> In a pinch
Ken said: If I get stuck on top and try to descend keeping my wings level will be little more than a guess. Ken and netters, I am not saying do this as a routine, but as Dana has said in a pinch: If you have or can acquire a good oil filled or better, kerosene filled aviation compass. In good VFR conditions slow down to a solid speed say 85 to 90, and watch how the compass looks when level. It will tip some, but will generally give a pretty good indication of wings level and nose up. Once things get bumpy it will move alot, but as Dana said, cross referenced with other instruments, it can save your life. As a low hour CFI, I got caught on top training a pvt pilot, but unconcerned since the school I was working for stated and had the paperwork showing all their 172's were IFR current. Once I penetrated the clouds after getting approved for a local IFR approach back into Executive Airport (KORL) I saw the DG begin to precess to uselessness, along with the AI begin bobbing below the horizon line. To make matters worse I started getting and on/off flag on the CDI (only one having glideslope for the ILS). I ended up shooting the ILS as a Localizer approach with my handheld in Nav mode to verify the CDI reading, and a useless DG and AI. A month later I found that ALL the paperwork had been forged for IFR. Would not have helped me if I didn't know how to use what I have. Be careful netters... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> VFR operations
Ken Jones did a great job pasting the correct parts of the FAR/AIM to explain the differences between the two clearances, or flying status'. Another netter who obviously does not have the back ground or understanding, scoffed at the post and said something like it was junk made up by the FAA, which is why he "gave up" on the FAA. A closer read of Ken's post will reveal 2 VERY important facts: First, one clearance/status is for VFR operations: VFR over the top. This is how you let ATC know you are flying over an overcast or broken layer of obscuration, which would usually be used to respond (but not always) to a request from ATC to descend while receiving flight following. It could also be a response to ATC after canceling an IFR Flight Plan. Secondly, the second clearance request or status is for IFR operations only: VFR on top. This would or should not be used to describe your status or request a clearance while VFR. It used on IFR Flight Plans, to lessen the workload of both ATC and the PIC by allowing the PIC to make changes in altitude as necessary to maintain VFR, and simply advise ATC, while allowing the PIC to remain on his IFR Flight Plan. Separation with other aircraft then becomes primarily the PIC's responsibility, but allows for him to advise ATC at a later time that he cannot maintain VFR, and return to being separated by ATC advisories, and navigate himself (if that is the part of his flight plan he is on, etc..). Both of these clearances/statuses are very important for PICs to be familiar with, as is virtually every part of the AIM, because ATC CANNOT "see" clouds on the radar. They can only see precipitation, aircraft, etc (something that will reflect back a radar echo). They depend heavily on a PIC's visual for information. Most of the pilots on the net are VFR only pilots; however, you MUST remain aware that you share the airspace with IFR traffic as well, and in many areas this traffic is well below 10,000 feet. Based on the last statistics I read from AOPA, General Aviation Aircraft outnumbered the Air Carrier Aircraft by something like 3 to 4 to 1. Same with the number of pilots vs. airline pilots. Less than half of all pilots have a commercial rating. This means that alot of us have many many opportunities to come in contact with or interact in our airspace with these other pilots. It may be a big sky, but we are not alone, and it can get crowded... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Carbs
Tommy said: The Harley carbs are too big for the 1835 as I tried one.The throat is too big but a smaller venturi model should do fine. It all depends on the model and donor engine the carb comes from. The standard carb now for almost all motorcycles sold in the US now is either Mikuni or Kiehin Japanese carbs. Alot of these Japanese carbs get switched out for higher volume Edlebrock or Holley carbs made for bikes, making them very cheap on Ebay. The trick to matching up the carbs early is to take the engine size in cc's, use the formula in "The Auto Mathbook" or similar source, convert first to cid, then using the peak factory rpm, calculate the maximum cfm draw of the engine. Now calculate the demand for your engine at its peak rpm, maybe fudging a hundred rpm or so, so you are not getting air starved near top rpm. When these two cfm demands are the same or very close, the carb should be matched well for your engine, and probably will be jetted pretty close as well (some carbs may be more sensitive to jetting based on temp and humidity). The slider carbs used on bikes today are variable venturi designs with the ability to adjust to density altitude thru 15,000 feet once they are matched to the engine properly. No mixture adjustment required (Motorcycle Magazine reported the 2002 Yamaha VStar - my bike- climbed Pike's Peak without so much as a hiccup). The Bing carbs used on Rotax and BMW engines for years are also a good alternative carb, but can get pricey if you do not know what motorcycle engine has your size. From Rotax these dual carbs cost $500 a piece! The other nice thing is that you can find a local bike mechanic, trip him out by asking him to tune your plane! Jet kits and carb rebuild kits are found locally, so no specialized dealer to work with. For those using fuel to help cooling (not recommended by me, but done), these carbs lend themselves well to being over jetted, and still allowing for a good mixture, for smooth running. Just some ideas. Course if you want to eliminate all those headaches, and trade for some new ones, you can just bolt on an EFI System.... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Carbs
Here is a link to one system that I found that looks very complete and well tested. Proven on VW/Porsche engines: http://www.lnengineering.com/fi.html Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net> Colin, that brings up a very good question, who makes an EFI system for VW's? any multi-port systems out there? Fred Johnson Product Manager T.E. West, LLC. ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Alternators
Bill said: I suggest the little John Deer the way WW has his. Mine is similar but made by Kubota. Hi Pete - your CUZ here!.Bill You can also use one that looks just like the one Bill is running, but comes from a 1992-1995 Ford Probe, or Mazda 626 with a 2.2L 4cyl engine. It is an 80 amp continuous rated, 105 peak, and is about 5 pounds, internally regulated. Best of all it has the wiring diagram included with it! You just make your own plug, or go by the Dealer and buy a repair pigtail, or salvage yard and get a donor pigtail for the plug in. The diagram tells exactly what each wire needs and how to hook it up. It simplifies everything to a 3 wire hookup and is internally regulated. Very robust design and will mount just like the pictures of Bill Clapp's plane at the 2004 Gathering. Check them out at krnet.org at the bottom where the Gathering pictures are: http://www.krnet.org/mvn2004/ Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Fuels
Not to start an argument or lengthy thread but Don said: That may well be but I still think it wise guidance given the FAA's basis for the ruling. The ruling was handed down because the FAA found that alcohol absorbs water, which causes all kinds of problems for fuel systems. Due to the understanding that most pilots will just fill, and fly, they wanted to protect pilots against the unknown. Water in the fuel can cause misfire, it can freeze at altitude, just to name a few. This is why the FAA mandated MOGAS for those that could run lower octane fuel. Alcohol in and of itself is not the problem. It is some of its properties that make it unsuitable for aircraft, unless special precautions are taken to prevent problems. Alcohol is also very corrosive so fuel components must be made compatible to it, or short term use will result in problems... Colin Rainey Independent Loan Officer Branch 2375 Apex Mortgage Company 386.615.3388 Home Office 407.739.0834 Cell 407.557.3260 Fax brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> hiccupping
I too believe that you are going to find water in your fuel system Mark. I would give your layout a real good going over and see if there is anywhere the water could get trapped. The heat from running up without movement to assist in cooling off could be hiding your problem. Look for any place water could accumulate. You may have to add a new drain. Case in point: older C 172's have only one fuel drain in the wings; when they switched to a newer style tank and fuel injection the number of total drains on wings and cowling/engine went from 3 to 13; 5 each wing and 3 cowling. May have to add one or two. Colin Rainey Independent Loan Officer Branch 2375 Apex Mortgage Company 386.615.3388 Home Office 407.739.0834 Cell 407.557.3260 Fax brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> turbos
And for more on that, GPASC says that for maximum engine life, the max should be 8 to 1 on the 2180 and 8.5 to 1 on the 1835. I agree with the evidence presented that in standard installations the max compression should be 8 to 1 with turbo. 94 octane fuel used to be available from Amoco as their premium fuel. I have not bought it in a while so not sure if it is still available. You can use higher compression ratios with turbo or supercharger (like a belt driven one, a Legacy was featured in Sport Aviation with a belt kit), but it usually requires an intercooler to reduce the heat introduced at the impeller during the pressurizing or "squeezing" process. The reason alot of kits now can be used with higher ratios is that they are being added to multi-port fuel injection units with computer monitored detonation through knock sensors, and alot are sold with intercoolers. Just adding a turbo to an engine by itself will allow a small benefit because the engine will begin making more power without an adjustment in the prop to use that power, or the prop is adjusted to use it, and the engine losing the turbo will be way overloaded with pitch when the turbo does not function. HOWEVER, these are generalizations, and there are more combinations of props engines, and turbos than can be discussed here (I think). My personal opinion is to decide whether the engine will be full time turbo, and adjust the entire setup, or no turbo... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> turbos
My engine has the compression set to 7.5:1. I have not experienced any knock, lots of power and too much heat in the oil. As for my turbo setup, I have dual egt, 4 CHT, as well as manifold pressure. One quick note to think about when running a Turbo, especially if you are adding a turbo, is some information that a gleaned from a book by B Superchargers. Simply adding a turbo will definitely improve the volumetric efficiency, but will not necessarily allow for the most from your turbo/engine combo. They did a test with one of their street blowers, and a stock camshaft, and found that it had 16 pounds of boost (manifold pressure) but only increased the horsepower and torque something like 10 and 15% each respectively. They then installed a off street cam, for normally aspirated motors with close lobe centerlines and lots of duration and lift, and gained just a little bit more, but most was gained very close to the blower's max effective rpm, with boost pressure still showing near 14 pounds. They then designed a cam that took into account the rpm range and the factors that supported a supercharger, and installed it. It had a wider lobe separation angle, and moderate increase in lift and duration and I believe it had a fair amount of cam advance. This cam dropped the manifold pressure down to 10 pounds and raised the horsepower and torque values 40 and 45% as compared directly to the other cams, using the stock as the base for all increases. My point for mentioning this is that when considering an add-on to a stock engine, like a turbo or supercharger, you need to consider the whole engine design package in order to get the most for your money spent. The same amount of air was being pumped into the engine, but the cams, intake valves, and intake manifold determined how much actually went into the engine, and how much stayed in the intake just making pressure. I personally recommend installing complete design packages, where the engine has all modifications made by the turbo designer in order to get best results. Companies like Vortech, and Banks Turbochargers have tech guys that will guide you to what to purchase to get a complete working package that will accomplish what you want. Be wary of the Ebay deals, unless you know what to get and what you WILL get. Often times these people have tried these packages and found them not to work, and so they are selling them to the unwary. Do NOT take the advice of the counter guy at Autozone or Advance or Central Auto Parts or NAPA when it comes to the aftermarket performance parts. If they knew as much as they think they do, they would not be working there... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> (Ignition)
The old lawnmower ignition is called "magneto" ignition. Try this on for size for a modern spin on the "old lawn mower" ignition. Ready to install for VW guys, and I am sure not too hard to adapt to other engines. http://www.revmasteraviation.com/products/cdi_ignition/index.htm Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net>
KR> Right of way
Mark said: Who's got the right of way in such a situation? Since the "vehicle" was of the non-airport employee type and merely cutting the grass etc... he would qualify under the "people, vehicles or structures" part of the regs where a pilot in command is not allowed to fly lower than 500 feet above. At a controlled field he would have been the responsibility of the ATC Ground Controller and would have been made to yield; if not he would be at fault. Knowing how the FAA is, he would have been fussed at and you would have been violated, even though he should have been aware of aircraft, but you definitely were aware of him. One of those nasty catch 22's that you can't win IF anything goes wrong. Good choice to go around! :) Colin Rainey
KR> Glasair on news
Don said: Netters Do you mean Lancaire(sp)? Aren't Glassaire High Wing? Anyway the vert. stabilizer is "Raked" back to much and the KR would have a tail wheel. Don A Glastar is a high wing which Stoddard Hamilton used to market along with the Glasair. When the company went broke they sold to two different companies. Lancairs look very different from a KR but Glasairs can sometimes be mistaken for one, such as this case. It has always been my contention that Glasairs are KR2S' on steroids! H gets me thinking that maybe a KR2 can handle a retro kit like the Harmon Rocket kit for the RV6/7 or 8... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Props
Willie said : Today was my 2nd flight with "Shreg" (the green KR2). This time I was not so nervous. Congrats on number two! Alot of builders have played with props, and there has been much discussion about pitch and length. The archives are filled with them. And as always EVERYONE has an opinion about what is best. Here is what my research has found. For your given application if you find that your speed is okay but you cannot reach peak rpm at cruise, then typically you will be over pitched, especially if your climb rate is also down. Using a prop of the same length and less pitch from the same manufacturer should yield a better climb and faster cruise, as long as the prop doesn't cavitate or tips break the speed of sound (best efficiency is tip speed between 80 & 90% of speed of sound). If you find yourself with a fantastic climb rate and engine over speeding at cruise, that is unable to use full throttle at cruise because of engine over speed, then you are pitched too little and need more pitch given that you will use the same length and manufacturer. The reason I say the same maker and length is because each maker will measure the prop slightly differently, just like different cam companies will advertise the same lift and duration, but get different results with the "same" cam. By using a different length you introduce a new variable of larger disc area, which brings its own changes to thrust and hp required etc... Even people running the same engine in the same model of airplane may get very different results given the same prop. Establish a baseline, and then make one change at a time. It takes more time that way but you will be able to measure your results better as to what actually yielded benefits, and what changed little or nothing. Also, get the book "Speed with Economy" to evaluate your plane better for better cruise numbers and get that climb rate up. Then you will have a fast and low risk 2 seater Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Flox
Filling with flox is fine. Barry Kruyssen I have also used flox several times all over the plane to fill or cover, repair. To add to the gripping power of the flox and make the final surface smooth and easy to primer and paint, I would mix up the flox to almost "soupy" and then apply to the area to be filled and repaired. Then I would come back with an oversized piece of Deck Cloth, and pat it in place over all of the flox with dry cloth overhanging the edges to be sanded away later. This completely covered the repair area, giving some grip to the flox while it cured and gave me a much smoother area once cured to finish. If the area was larger than 1/2 inch circle, then I would use 2 or even 3 layers of deck cloth. Not using any additional epoxy allowed me to keep the weight down. I would just pat the cloth in place with the same wooden tongue depressor after applying the flox. The cloth soaks up the excess epoxy and also prevents it from running (or at least not as bad). This method with slightly dryer flox works even upside down. I did this on the bolt ends that protruded through the fuselage for mounting my bellcrank for the elevator pushrod. Came out very smooth and sanded and primed easy. Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Fuselage mods
I must say I am a little nervous about it, But it would be sweet. Please give me you're input, it would really mean alot to me. If I did do this, I could post the photos and info. to the group. What do ya think? Mike Johnson Well in a word quoted here many times, it is experimental so My advise would be to talk to Steve Rahm over here in Daytona, with Vision Aircraft. He basically has an improved (KR2S on vitamins) version of the KR2 which is all fiberglass like the Glasair (also an improved KR2) with different airfoils, but with all the same design ideas and goals. He can tell you about how the balsa wood density difference(?) would/might effect the fuselage strength, and ideas about what you might have to do to adjust for the changes. Also Dan Diehl could possibly enlighten you on what effects changing the core material might/would have on the structural strength. Take a look at Edward Barrios' site. He completed an entire fuselage with glass and foam, using only the wood framing without covering, and glassed over similar to making wings. I would make some large pieces by the plans, then make some large pieces how you want them, and test each set to failure and compare. Just my humble opinion Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Tach hook up question.
Because the normal ignition system works by applying ground to the coil to allow it to saturate with current and then remove the ground to collapse the field and release the voltage through a multiplying coil, causing a sharp rise in voltage and reduction in amps to produce the necessary spark voltage needed at the plug. Since the ground is connected to either the points/condenser or electronic ignition you will either damage the module or cause an errant spark. Simply depriving the coil of power eliminates any of these worries and takes that entire side of the system out of the loop. The tach reads off the ground side causing a reaction to the multiple grounds buffered to raise the needle in response to the total grounding offered, which the face changes to rpm (through a knowledgeable calibration). By using a diode you prevent power or ground from traveling one way, towards the coil on the other side, while allowing the ground to travel to the coil to provide for the necessary signal to read rpm. Radio Shack carries some fast acting diodes that will prevent the "cross talking" of the two coils and can be soldered in line very easily. Make a Y line to each coil, and after the y closest to the coils, solder in the diode paying attention to the provided diagram on the package for direction of current flow allowed. ALL DONE! Now the tach will read on both coils. The selector switch already in the system will choose the coil and the tach will read correctly. Colin Rainey Independent Loan Officer Branch 2375 Apex Mortgage Company 386.615.3388 Home Office 407.739.0834 Cell 407.557.3260 Fax brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net> -Original Message- From: krnet-bounces+brokerpilot=bellsouth@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces+brokerpilot=bellsouth@mylist.net]On Behalf Of oldbiker...@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 4:37 PM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: Re: KR> Tach hook up question. why can't you cut the power to the coil? Same effect and grounding the coil. Ray Lee kr2 9763 ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> correction
"while allowing the ground to travel to the coil" Should read: while allowing the ground to travel to the tach. Also the y line is one line, split to both coils, and the diode placed in each line running to the ground side of the coil. This prevents the cross feeding of the ground signal and the possibility of the tach grounding out the coil due to tach failure. Colin Rainey Independent Loan Officer Branch 2375 Apex Mortgage Company 386.615.3388 Home Office 407.739.0834 Cell 407.557.3260 Fax brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Tach drives
John said: "use a tooth counter sender off the ring gear" >From observations that is the hardest style to have as a primary or secondary due to the bracketing etc... to keep the air gap correct. Engine vibration tends to knock that one out of reading. Volvo and Chrysler both have used that method as an engine speed sensor, and wear on the ring gear from starters, dirt and such effect it. The best solution if not the coil attached tach, is the Tiny Tach that uses an inductive pickup off of one plug wire. We used these pickups with our Sun Scopes for years with no trouble. It clips around the plugwire and reads the pulses to a digital display. Very simple and reliable. In practice I have not seen any tach failures, and those reported that did fail, did not cause a total ignition failure, just quit reading. Diodes are a couple of bucks each, so applying 2 in each line insures against total failure, and should last a lifetime of flying anyhow. Colin Rainey Independent Loan Officer Branch 2375 Apex Mortgage Company 386.615.3388 Home Office 407.739.0834 Cell 407.557.3260 Fax brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Corvair motor
-Original Message- DID YOU SELL THE CORVAIR MOTOR? OR DO YOU STILL HAVE IT? THANKS MAX BUTLER CHEYENNE WYOMING Sorry net I believe that he intended this just to me, but for any who are curious, yes the engine is sold. Thanks, Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net>
KR> Tach drives
John said: A short in your tacho can take your primary to earth irrespective of the existence of diodes and I am sure there are automotive examples that you may have not observed. Tiny Tachs are notoriously unreliable, And so the story goes that as many people as we have here on the net, we have experiences that reflect negatively on one type system or another, for virtually every part of the plane. I have never seen a tach drive short a coil down, but have seen starter rings that were chewed and damaged due to starter wear, and these would cause an erratic signal to your tooth counter system. No I am not referring to a Hall Effect switch. If going to the crank for a signal, I would use either the internal method found on many 4 and 6 cylinder GMs or the external mounted to the back of the balancer. MSD makes a universal kit for crank trigger that can be retrofitted onto virtually any engine. Every system will have its strengths and weaknesses. Some guys are using points due to simplicity and low voltage requirements. I find that medieval when systems like one netter is using, the motorcycle CD system (I believe Serge is, sorry if I got it wrong) that is very simple and very reliable. Everyone will have to find their own comfort level with the system they choose, and compromises made with each design. No system is 100% failsafe. Especially in aircraft where they typically do not shim starters and an experienced ear can hear the starter clashing in the ring gear, I would not run a tooth counter, unless you like the same unreliability you say the Tiny Tach has. Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> KR Parts
I hate to be a bad sport about this one but buy the book from WW. It has the mount for the KR2 and S in it. Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net> -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On Behalf Of oldbiker...@aol.com Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2006 9:26 PM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: Re: KR> KR Parts Does anyone have rough sketch of a Corvair motor mount with the demenotions ( tube length width at the tie downs? Thanks Ray Lee KR2 9763 ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Pushrods
Dana Overall posted a complete list of the parts required to make a pushrod the length required to reach the elevator in the back of his plane, which is only about 6 inches short of my plane. Now I know that Mark L only went part way, but you MUST consider the distance when making the pushrod. A mechanical engineer who built a T-18 put it this way to me, when I explained how I was making my tube from 5/8" 4130 tubing: "it will be fine to pull, but pushing will flex and ultimately bend it". That is when I bought 1 inch thick wall tubing and inserted the 5/8 inside, used AN3 bolts across at 90 degrees (see the site on Dan Heath's link to understand) to stiffen enough for safety. Lose the ailerons, substitute the rudder; lose the rudder, substitute ailerons; lose the elevator - pray! 5/8 tubing is good for short distances, but the farther the run, the larger the diameter of the tubing it needs to be. The RV series use something like 1 1/2 inch thin wall to run between 7 and 8 feet (difference between RV6/7 and RV8 I think). If it were ME changing to a pushtube, I first would NOT follow the path of the cable. I would make my pushrod go to the rear, thru the rear spar and then replace the balance cable as an actuation pushtube on THAT bellcrank. This will ultimately be a shorter run, easier to configure, fewer parts to make, and allow for the adjusting ends to be located inside the plane for ease of tuning and weather protection. One transfer bellcrank next to the stick assembly, slot in the spar, and bellcrank for side to side movement at the rear spar. Attach to the existing bellcrank of the aileron (clearance may need to be made for ends depending on connection type). Just my 2 cents... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Corvair engine for sale
For those of you that need an engine and want a BIG head start, here is an engine on Ebay: Item number: 220033618930 Won't last long Sorry gang but no more chances at the plane; not for sale any more. Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Tach hook up question.
Mark You should place diodes inline for each negative trigger lead anyhow just in case WW is right and the tach shorts down causing ignition failure. The diode would not only allow for only one wire to be run both tachs, with a y-split in it, but would also prevent trigger from each coil firing the other and the tach grounding the whole system if it failed. Colin Rainey Independent Loan Officer Branch 2375 Apex Mortgage Company 386.615.3388 Home Office 407.739.0834 Cell 407.557.3260 Fax brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net> -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On Behalf Of Mark Jones Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 12:15 PM To: KRnet Subject: RE: KR> Tach hook up question. A DPDT switch. That's amazing...I built an airplane and never thought of something so simple as that. Don't tell anybody!!! Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI My Web site: http://www.flykr2s.com/ Mailto:flyk...@wi.rr.com -Original Message- From: krnet-bounces+flykr2s=wi.rr@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces+flykr2s=wi.rr@mylist.net]On Behalf Of j35...@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 10:30 AM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: Re: KR> Tach hook up question. Mark: Do not put a jumper between them as it will short the two ignitions together. The safest way is to switch the tach wire when you switch the ignition. That requires a separate deck on the switch but is the safest and most reliable. Bob Lasecki Chicago ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Tach hook up question.
Because those are for mags with p leads that get grounded to shut them off instead of coils that receive power to turn them on. Colin Rainey Independent Loan Officer Branch 2375 Apex Mortgage Company 386.615.3388 Home Office 407.739.0834 Cell 407.557.3260 Fax brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net> -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On Behalf Of oldbiker...@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 3:29 PM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: Re: KR> Tach hook up question. Is that DPDT the same as "regular airplanes" off/ on/ left/ right. If it is not why doesn't everyone use the four position switch? Ray Lee Kr2 9763 ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Engine for sale
Netters I have decided that I am not selling my airframe of the KR2, just the engine. The price is $4500 plus any shipping. Dan Heath has a link to the old site with some new pictures of the engine and mount. Both go. All parts engine related are beging sold with it. The current price for a WW engine from his site in the same condition is $7900, so this is a great buy, and a big jump start on the firewall forward of a KR2 or S model. Contact me offline if interested. Colin Rainey Independent Loan Officer Branch 2375 Apex Mortgage Company 386.615.3388 Office 407.739.0834 Cell 407.557.3260 Fax brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> QC of certified planes
That said we should remember that certified aircraft will have a much more consistent level of QC! Don I beg to differ with you. I feel from my experience working around two different flight schools and having air carrier pilots tell me stories about what they are having to fly with right now, I believe that the average KR builder will perform much better maintenance, and care of his aircraft than any A not required to fly in what he just repaired. This not meant to be a flame of A's, nor do I want to put down their craft, but I have taken a close look at ALOT of certified planes and some are down right scary and they are still considered AIRWORTHY. I would ride in Mark J's or Mark L's or Dan Heath's or a number of other KR's MUCH faster than taking a flight in a random plane off the average rental flight line. Case in point that no one noticed at Cessna that the tails were loose on ALL the R model C172s until a Comair Academy CFI killed his mother, fiancé's, and uncle in a crash when they lost the tail feathers due to the one bolt that holds the entire tail on was not threaded properly, and so when torqued properly at the factory, was still not holding tight. No QC person compared the new bolt to the old bolt on such a critical assembly. No thank you, but no, I am no believer that ANY certified plane is safer or better built, or better maintained than an Experimental. On the contrary I tend to go the other way Your opinion may be different Colin Rainey Independent Loan Officer Branch 2375 Apex Mortgage Company 386.615.3388 Office 407.739.0834 Cell 407.557.3260 Fax brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> TAKEOFF DISTANCE OVER 60' OBSTACLE
Larry I was taught that you should always multiply the required distance by 3 to be safe, 2 for absolute minimum distance of clear space, beyond lift off. Since every plane is going to be different, the best thing to do is test your example on asphalt/concrete first; observe the distance required for a short field effort. Then takeoff from a long grass strip and compare the actual increased distance required due to actual greater resistance. Most of the Corvair and O-200 guys are reporting around 500 feet to be completely off, best effort. At a Vx climb of say 85 mph or 80 knots est., you should be able to climb solo at 1000 fpm or better (depending on prop etc) and gross weight at 500 fpm or better. If not do not attempt it. At 500 feet to lift off, you need 1500 feet of clear space to insure enough "whoops" space for slow reaction, rolling start instead of runup then go, etc... If you will have flaps, then testing needs to be done to see if a small setting enhances lift, say 10 degrees. This is common to see in many planes beginning with a C 152, all the way up to air carrier planes. The flaps are retracted after clearing the obstacle. There are alot of variables and in order to plan or estimate, you will need to get very specific about your plan configuration and then talk to the owners who have that... Colin Rainey Independent Loan Officer Branch 2375 Apex Mortgage Company 386.615.3388 Office 407.739.0834 Cell 407.557.3260 Fax brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net> -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On Behalf Of Larry H. Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 1:06 AM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: KR> TAKEOFF DISTANCE OVER 60' OBSTACLE I am hoping to be able to land and takeoff my AIRBUGGY by my dads house like Mark L does. For those who have larger engines, what do you think your takoff distance would be off of a grass field and be able to easily make it over 60 to 70 feet tall trees? Thanks for your help I would like to know if I can keep thinking about this or forget it. Larry H. Airbuggy in the workshop ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Corvair engine
Hey gang Just a quick note that if anyone is looking for an engine, I have a Corvair using WW parts, etc... and manual, and mount for KR2 tailwheel. $4500 Contact me off net. Colin Rainey Independent Loan Officer Branch 2375 Apex Mortgage Company 386.615.3388 Office 407.739.0834 Cell 407.557.3260 Fax brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Landing KR's
Please do not say there are NO differences between landing 3 point and wheel landing. THAT is just not true! In your experience you may not have had any difference show itself, but do not lead some pilots who are looking to this list for guidance to believe that landing 3 point is as easy and should be done regardless of wind conditions. If it was not different, it would not be taught that way! Fact: whan it is windy, and landing a TAILWHEEL airplane, due to the length of the gear (mains to tailwheel) there is additional leverage gained by the wind to cause the tailwheel airplane to try to ground loop vs. the tri-gear. The landing attitude of any airplane taildown puts the plane closer to the backside of the power curve, which is an area of LESS positive control. Since crosswinds tend to cause more control issues, worsened if they are variable, this is not the place to be during a landing. By wheel landing, the pilot sees much more of the runway allowing for subtle changes in alignment to be seen sooner, and smooth corrections made. If the nose is in the way, only your peripheral vision can help you and you must judge from the distance seen to the edge. That kind of logic is out there, but I have always disagreed with it: you can do a short field landing two ways; nose high behind the power curve like a bush pilot, or nose down, with full flaps early and good power control and technique. Difference: the nose high will NOT make the runway if he has a power failure; the nose down pilot will. Same with nose high 3 point when it would be best to wheel land and roll out alittle longer: if all goes well, great; if a sudden gust comes up, and the pilot does not have the experience to correct, off the runway he goes or ground loop. If you don't have to land at minimums why do so? Build in all the fudge factor that you can. That is where the phrase came from, "the last notch of flaps comes in once you have made the fence". I HAVE landed a KR2 in 20 knot 45 degree crosswinds gusting to 35 knots and variable. I wheel landed at 90 mph approach, 85 short final, and was safe all the way, with full control. I would NEVER have considered a 3 point landing in that wind (and I did 10 circuits that day). Colin Rainey Independent Loan Officer Branch 2375 Apex Mortgage Company 386.615.3388 Office 407.739.0834 Cell 407.557.3260 Fax brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Landings
If you want to copy the prescribed program required by the FAA for the tailwheel endorsement then BOTH wheel landings and 3 point landings are required to be demonstrated for proficiency. You must perform at least 3 of each to a full stop in order for the CFI to legally endorse you. Dana I would think that your jet jockey did a 3 point more from that is the way he does his approaches in other aircraft so it is a comfort zone for him, rather than from a lack of experience. The 3 point mostly feels the same as the mains on first in a tri-gear. I can also see where many people would find this kind of landing easier because it has very little different from the tri-gear, even taxi is close to taxiing on say grass, with full aft stick or yoke, raising the nose. The slower the plane the LESS stable it is, not the more stable. Much more aircraft control is acchieved by coming in faster than slower. That is why you add half the gust speed to your approach speed when landing in strong winds. On calm days one can slow the plane down more and still maintain good control. From most KR pilots that fly now it seems that the "window" for a good 3 pointer is rather narrow, and it is much easier to sorta mix the two and come in tail low, then roll it onto the mains. A big bounce during a 3 point will almost always result in having to add alot of power, since usually the tail gets thrown into the air the highest, and having little airspeed left results in the plane dropping pretty much straight down, just like the tri-gear. If one bounces in the wheel landing, by adding just a small amount of power, you momentarily hold the plane in ground effect, and just land the plane over again. This proficiency can really be achieved by all by doing the high speed taxiing practice, and then doing short hops on a long runway, short flights into ground effect and then landing again. Get good at 10 feet and below, then the rest is easy. The KR2 is very good in crosswinds if you keep your head, because the controls are very effective all the way down to the landing and beyond. It is just easier in my opinion to ride on the mains to well below flying speed, and then have the tail drop slowly around 40 mph with no fear of lifting back off and good control already established. To borrow Larry F's phrase:"as always your results may vary..." Colin Rainey Independent Loan Officer Branch 2375 Apex Mortgage Company 386.615.3388 Office 407.739.0834 Cell 407.557.3260 Fax brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> Re: Nat and the Franklin
It is also a recommended engine for use by the Velocity crowd, and I understand from the owners that several are in use in different models there... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net> -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On Behalf Of Larry H. Sent: Monday, September 18, 2006 11:00 AM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> Re: Nat and the Franklin Yes Nat Puffer had a Franklin in his Cozy Mk IV. The word was that he liked it but the company would not give it to him (he didn't want to buy it) so he removed it and put Lycoming back in or in. Larry H. Didn't Nat Puffer have a Frankiln in one of this Cozies? ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Weather Gods
Kinda sounds alittle unfair that the voting for where/when to have the Gathering should only be done by the attendees. Others who could possibly attend at another location or time of year would not be represented at all. I personally am not held back, due to an instrument rating, and lots of experience but several have mentioned that they are VFR only pilots, which does effect them. With the possible exceptions to Oshkosh and maybe Sun n' Fun, I personally think it is senseless to try and schedule the Gathering around such events. Many KR pilots have expressed that they will not fly their KR's to these events anyway, and normally don't even attend every year. My suggestion is to pick a month in the future; anounce when it will be. Have anyone who would like to host the Gathering, either build a web page to illustrate your offer, or load a page with pictures and explanation to do the same. If the individual cannot do that, then they probably cannot handle the workload of a successful Gathering. Then just like the Memorial, have a voting with a cut off date. A tie gets a runoff, or voting only by say last 5 years attendees to decide between the last two places. If the other person and location still want to sponsor something, then have a KR flyin as a warm up to The Gathering. This can all be decided after the present Gathering is over. Let this one happen with full enthusiasm. But I do think that voting on the Gathering location at the banquet is not representative of the KR community at large Colin Rainey N96TA
KR> KR model for microsoft flight sim
I had one years ago but it flies just like the Extra 300 already in the flight sim database. Just use it. Also it is only good as a reference of performance and control, nothing like the real thing. Colin Rainey Independent Loan Officer Branch 2375 Apex Mortgage Company 386.615.3388 Office 407.739.0834 Cell 407.557.3260 Fax brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net> -Original Message- From: krnet-bounces+brokerpilot=bellsouth@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces+brokerpilot=bellsouth@mylist.net]On Behalf Of Myron (Dan) Freeman Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 2:47 PM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> KR model for microsoft flight sim There's one for X-Plane but I haven't heard of one for MSFS. - Original Message - From: "Andreas Reitemeyer EDVCHECK" <a...@edvcheck.de> To: <kr...@mylist.net> Sent: Monday, September 18, 2006 7:56 PM Subject: KR> KR model for microsoft flight sim > Hi, > > is there an KR model for the flight simulator out there??? > > Andy > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> tailwheel landings
Way back at the beginning of this thread I think that at least I mispoke myself in my post. I was not trying to state which was better, merely that there was a concrete reason why each type of landing was performed, but was up to the discretion of the pilot. My main point was that at least to fly certified aircraft and acquire the proper endorsement of tailwheel airplane, you must demonstrate proficiency in both types of landings. Also, according to the Airplane Flying Handbook which the FAA considers the main resource for information concerning principles of flight and transition into other types of aircraft from the trainers, 3 point landings are PREFERRED for no wind or light wind situations, and wheel landings are preferred for crosswind and gusting circumstances. This is what a pilot supposed to be taught without prejudice (Hahaha) when being given transition training. Not withstanding aircraft differences the general concensus is that one should be proficient in both types of landings. Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> lifters
My type one had bored out lifter galleys so that Chevy hydraulic lifters could be used. Locate your local VW high performance shop and they can tell you all the mods practical for your engine type. Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> WAF free wings
The biggest reason I can speak of is that with NO diehredral, you lose some of the stability of the aircraft, and you lose some ground clearance in the event you have a crosswind to correct for. The standard practice is to crab into the crosswind until some point where you switch to a stabilized approach (I teach approx 200 feet or before) to bank into the wind and apply opposite rudder. This will cause a wing low landing, and if you have no diehedral you could have a very close wing tip. Also the diehredral adds to the stability, especially in planes that are low wings, due to the fact that it puts the fuselage lower relative to the main point of lift, adding a small pendelum effect (more pronounced in high wing planes). The diehedral has a leveling effect on the plane when upset by winds/updrafts etc... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net> -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On Behalf Of bearlk...@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 10:17 PM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: KR> WAF free wings I know there has been some speculative discussion on straight no WAF wings. Has anyone actually seen or built such a Kr subspecies variant? Bob Polgreen boat and parts Nowthen MN ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Solid wings
Mark L took some time and figured some stuff up related directly to that idea of a continuous wing spar, having the diehedral come into the fuse. Check his website for it, if not he will probably comment again about what his take is on how it should be done to be successful. I know you are uncomfortable about the WAFs. How ever NONE have ever failed in flight. If someone else has new info I stand corrected, but from all that I have read the only KR's that have hit the ground have been due to pilot error, with the exception of some engine failures. I have never heard of a structural failure of a KR yet Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
KR> RV versus KR control responsiveness
Larry said: Common? I think not. It seems most develop their proficiency in the solo mode. I have to agree with Larry and expound: Get ALOT of recency! You need to be on your game like you were the day you passed your PPL, so that the only variables are limited to the KR itself. Recency in type is great but we pilots of KR's have spoken enough about what airplanes fly similar enough to give every pilot enough choices to get good quality experience prior to that first flight. And one word of caution: You guys, and you know who you are, that fly "by the numbers" and are book pilots instead of practical experience pilots, go get some quality time with an older CFI who will show you how to adjust things for wind, temp, altitude, obstacles, etc... Everyone with a KR here has spoken about variations in ASI readings, as compared to both GPS, and other KR's. Learn to "feel" that stall coming on, and recognize the controls becoming sloppy, etc... Go fly a Citabria that has no flaps so you have no choice on a short approach but slip, and still land. Get back to where you would fly into a Level 4 Thunderstorm (figuratively speaking) if given the chance. Then your flying skill is NOT in question on test day, just the plane's... Colin Rainey brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net> ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> For Sale
Netters Just to clarify a few things, I am not anxious to sell N96TA. However, circumstances have occurred where selling it would bring some benefits, provided the person is actually going to finish it. It is listed in Barnstormers as some have written to me about it. Price for all is $14,000 with over $17,000 invested. This plane has actually flown over 30 hours and just needs the new engine installation completed and then tested. I am also willing to sell the engine to only a KR Netter, with mount and electronic ignition, coil, starter, etc... for $5500. This engine has yet to be run in, but has been completely assembled except for the oil cover, intake, carb, and exhaust pipes (manifolds are installed just need lock tabs added). WW manual is included, but again only to be sold to a netter who will fly it. If I sell the engine off of the plane then the airframe stays with me. I am not looking to part the plane out so please do not write me about different pieces of equipment it contains. It sells one of two ways to a netter to complete: engine alone or everything. Thanks, contact me off net if you want more details, etc... Colin Rainey Independent Loan Officer Branch 2375 Apex Mortgage Company 386.615.3388 Office 407.739.0834 Cell 407.557.3260 Fax brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
