[lace] Pricking
- To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] pricking size for scarf
> I have a design and I have silk yarn. However, I don't know how much to enlarge/reduce the pricking so as to fit the yarn. I agree with Antjeâs instructions to wind your thread around a pencil or strip of card so that the threads lie parallel to each other, just touching but not overlapping. Whatever length the width of twelve threads is should be the distance between the foot edge pins - assuming itâs torchon lace. see http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/lace/threadsize/threadsize.html Brenda in Allhallows paternos...@appleshack.com www.brendapaternoster.co.uk - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] pricking size for scarf
I use berry headed quilting pins for large projects like scarves. Nice and long and sturdy Sue suebabbs...@gmail.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] pricking size for scarf
Hi Julie Not sure how big your "extra large" pins are, but have you tried using the berry-headed ones - with thick-ish thread (eg no. 40 linen - your scarf yarn is probably a lot thicker than that) I use those for picots where I am putting a lot of twists round the pin, makes a nice big picot and the pin can take really firm tugging to tension the thread so the picot sits nicely. You need big, strong pins for your thick scarf yarn otherwise they will bend when you need to tension the yarn firmly... Beth In Cheshire, NW England On 28/10/15 16:07, jsyz...@comcast.net wrote: I wonder if I should use one twist when putting the weaver around the pin instead of two twists? Holly sold me some extra large pins, but she still seemed dubious about their size. I don't know why she is dubious; I don't know what happens if torchon pins are too small. But I wonder whether the reason the thread feels resistant going around the weaver pin is not that the pricking is small but rather that the pins are so small that it hard to fit two twists inwhen circling around the pin. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] pricking size for scarf
Hello Julie, I am working on Model 11 from Brigitte Bellon's Kloppelmuster für Schals und Tischlaufer. What I love about the scarfs in this book is that they are worked with few pairs (I think it is about 35) and I have to keep turning the pillow (so, bolster is recommended) and making corners all the time. That is more fun than working normal meters. There are diagrams in the book. Not many, but the important ones. Some of them, for example the beginnings, are on the first pages of the book, as they are common explanations to all scarfs. Also the working direction is explained clearly. I had to enlarge the pattern a bit. But this depends on the thread you want to use. I am using a very soft Bamboo thread (I bought it in Spain, at http://opercheiro.com/tienda/ ). To enlarge, I wound 12 wraps of the thread on a bobbin or a pencil and checked if these 12 wraps fitted between the foot edge dots. If they overpass the dots, and hat's what happened with my Bamboo, I enlarged the pattern. I did a few photocopies of only one DIN A4 at 110%, 115%, 120%, 125% and measured again. I used the copy that fitted. After that, you will have to make photocopies of the starting pattern, the finishing one, and the center one who will be repeated as many times as necessary for the length you want. Hope these explanations are useful, in case you get decided for Bellon's scarf! Best luck!! Greetings from Spain Antje González www.vueltaycruz.es - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] pricking size for scarf
I would like to make a silk scarf because why not? I've never made a scarf. I have a design and I have silk yarn. However, I don't know how much to enlarge/reduce the pricking so as to fit the yarn. I have made teeny samples of various sizes but I don't know what to look for. What? What am I looking for? The design is Model 11 from Brigitte Bellon's Kloppelmuster fur Schals und Tischlaufer. That's a book of Torchon(?) scarves and table runners. It's in German (which I don't speak) and there aren't any diagrams for how to make stitches, but the prickings are marked (for example, the cloth trails and spiders are clearly marked) and there are very clear photos of each piece. This scarf looks like just Torchon ground, cloth trails, and a few spiders thrown in. I got the book and yarn from Holly Van Sciver. She said, oh, this pricking is too small for this yarn, you will have to enlarge appropriately. I said, how do I know how big to make it? She said, make little samples with various pricking sizes. I said, what, you mean I have to go make an entire pricking and wind up all those bobbins and then start working the scarf and then stop after a short time so all that work was for nothing? She said no, not at all. She said put the photocopy directly on the pillow--no pricking-- and just work with a few bobbins. Easy-peasy. So I went home, made a bunch of photocopies of various sizes, and wound up 12 pairs of bobbins. I started at the beginning of the scarf, but the beginning of the scarf is just ground and I wanted to see how the yarn behaved in cloth stitch. I ran out of bobbins well before I got to the first cloth stitch. So I found a likely section of the design that had both ground and cloth. I made an imaginary 7 by 5 ! pin diamond. I put pins on the top left and top right sides of the diamonds and hung a single pair on each. Then I worked the inside of the diamond, which, as I said, had both ground and cloth trail. So now I have teeny diamonds of various sizes. What am I looking for? This is a scarf, so I guess I want it to be soft. Maybe lace will naturally be soft because it has lots of holes in it? Also, won't it be impractical as a scarf since won't the holes let all the cold air in so it won't keep you warm? Should I make it extra long so the wearer can wrap it around a few times to keep the cold out? Or are lace scarves only worn wrapped once, for maximum decorativeness? How long should a scarf be, anyway? I guess the tighter the lace the more stiff and study it is? So how stiff and sturdy do I want a scarf to be? Surely a really loose lace will fail to hold its stitches and be more likely to catch and distort when touching another object? But I do want it to feel nice to the touch. All the other lace I make is just edging exercises and stuff so it's not big enough that I care how it feels like in my hand. For the 100% diamond the cloth stitch was resistant--I felt like I had to really pull the threads to get them through and the threads felt rough and not-wanting-to-slide. Off the pins, the cloth stitch looks a little lumpy and the sides where the weaver bends around looks unattractive. So, fine 100% is definitely too small. 105% is better. 110% is pretty reasonable. The cloth stitch looks smooth and it was easy to work. The threads no longer feel rough and resistant. Except maybe when I am pinning the weaver. At 115% the cloth stitch starts looking like it has some space in it. Breathing room. Man, it look like dense half stitch to me but I know for a fact that I used cloth stitch. I think maybe that's due to the fact that the cloth stitch goes diagonally when I hold the diamond in the natural way, instead of going horizontal. I think I'll try a couple more sizes and see if I can get something that is definitely too big. Right now I guess I like the 115%, as it feels the softest. But the diamonds are really small. Maybe a much bigger piece of lace has qualities to it that I miss in a smaller piece, qualities like the softness and sturdiness. I wonder if I should use one twist when putting the weaver around the pin instead of two twists? Holly sold me some extra large pins, but she still seemed dubious about their size. I don't know why she is dubious; I don't know what happens if torchon pins are too small. But I wonder whether the reason the thread feels resistant going around the weaver pin is not that the pricking is small but rather that the pins are so small that it hard to fit two twists inwhen circling around the pin. I'm excited at this idea of figuring out for myself how big to make the pricking. I am not naturally adventurous, not at all, so I always use the thread specified in the book or in Holly's sizing chart, slavishly following the directions and afraid to explore for myself. I am really pleased at how quick and easy it is to just churn out several diamonds. It is
[lace] Pricking for a Cross...
Hi Spiders All, I am hoping that one of you can help! Â Â My home is currently on the market, as I am the carer for my Mum, who is too frail to stay on her own now, and all my stuff - books, pillows,bobbins etc, etc, - is packed away. Â Â I would like to make a cross for my Parish priest, as he has been so good to me, and to Mum, but I can't find any I like! Â Â I had looked at the Presencia prickings, but wonder if anyone can point me in another direction, to find something which is suitable, and which isn't too complicated, as my lace time is now VERY limited, as you can all no doubt imagine! I thank you all in advance, and may your pins never bend! Carol - in North Norfolk, UK'Deliver us, Lord, from every evil, and grant us peace in our day'. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] lace pricking card
No one has mentioned this, perhaps Iâm the only one with this experience? Back in the days when we didnât have scanners and our computers ran on tapes there was no option but to draw out our prickings by hand. I well remember the first big project I made, it was a doily. I had just taken it off the pillow and laid it out on the coffee table to admire when our dog snatched it up and ran off with it. While there was no damage to the actual lace (or the dog) it was pretty dirty and I had to wash it. It shrunk, so I used the pricking to block it. Naturally, in spite of indelible ink, it bled into the lace. This year I had occasion to block a large piece of lace (the major disaster I wrote about) and, in spite of using two layers of plastic over the original pricking, the ink still started to bleed up around the pins. Fortunately I was watching closely and I removed the lace before it got dyed. Normally you can block out lace without having to use the original pricking but if the shrinkage is too much you have to use the pricking as a guide? How do others solve the problem of blocking? Sharon on Vancouver Island - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Pricking card & sticky film
Hello All! Just wanted to add--if you use a piece of waxed paper between the pricking & your cork pad, the needle seems to stay clean & free of gunk. Since I don't always have waxed paper with me, I tried using the plasticky paper that peels off the film itself. It worked for me too. My pricker is stored with the needle poked into a wine cork & I occasionally clean it with my emery. A friend who makes the most luscious strawberry emeries from hand dyed velvet let me take a few to Sweet Briar where they were quickly adopted! Sincerely, Susan Hottle, Erie PA USA iPhone - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] pricking card for dark threads?
Hello All! After searching in my thread cave, I found some linen thread suitable for the Skansk workshop next weekend. Since I'm from the "what's white???" school of lacemaking, I selected navy blue. The teacher is bringing orange pricking card for me so I suppose it would work for black & other dark colors. I'll have more of an opinion on the 12th! Sincerely, Susan Hottle, winding bobbins in Erie, PA - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003
RE: [lace] Pricking card
Re: "it has a sheen that can make it less easy to find pinholes accurately" I always use a pan scrub (the ones with sponge backing) to rub off the shine - problem solved. Sue M Harvey Norfolk UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Pricking Material/Libraries (Evolved to Copyright)
Following from what Nancy said, I too have had books published - nothing to do with lacemaking, but practical books of patterns. Although published by the best-known publisher of it's subject, I still hold the copyright, which I believe is usual in the UK. They were published as cheaply as possible because the idea was to enable buyers to save money by making their own items rather than purchase expensive specialist ones. I know that one of them has been used for starting cottage industries, and I have absolutely no objection to that, provided the person has purchased the book. In fact I wish them luck. I receive less than 1GBP per copy sold in royalties (less 20% in income tax), and I really object to the idea of people copying the patterns and passing them round to their friends, giving the impression that the work I put into producing the book is not even worth me receiving that small amount. Just the same as people expecting time and effort to be put into making something for far less than the minimum wage - it's a hobby after all! I admit that occasionally I have been guilty of making a copy of someone else's design, but mostly I buy the book or pricking. I do object when someone who never buys a book or pricking, regularly asks if they can have a copy of pattern I, or someone else, has. Not only are they stealing from the designer, but asking me to pay for obtaining the pricking as well. Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Pricking card
Dear Arachnids The manilla card I used when I started lacemaking !! years ago was originally produced, under the name Elephantind Presspahn, for electrical insulation. At the same time only straw filled pillows were available and the stiff card was necessary to stop pins from leaning sideways due to irregularities in the stuffing. Now, with polystyrene pillows I make photocopies and use thin coloured card. I have never been happy using plasic film. Firstly it makes it difficult to insert pins and makes then sticky, and secondly it has a sheen that can make it less easy to find the pinholes acurately. Providing the pins remain accurately in the position of the pinhole then thin card is OK. If your tension is strong and it drags the pin sideways into a wrong position and enlarges the hole in the card then the card is too thin for you and you should find a tougher one. Regarding copying patterns from books. Since I have been self-publishing I try to remember to include that copying patterns is permissable in the section about copyright in my books, then you should not have problems in the shops. Happy lacemaking Alex - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Pricking material/libraries
In UK "fair dealing" means an individual is allowed to make a copy of someone else's work for non-commercial, private study. From: http://www.copyrightservice.co.uk/copyright/p27_work_of_others Research and private study Copying parts of a literary, dramatic, musical or artistic work or of a typographical arrangement of a published edition for the purpose of research or private study is allowed under the following conditions: • The copy is made for the purposes of research or private study. • The copy is made for non-commercial purposes. • The source of the material is acknowledged. • The person making the copy does not make copies of the material available for a number of people. It's not explicitly stated but fair usage is generally taken as 5% or one chapter. See: http://www.soas.ac.uk/infocomp/copyright/library/photocopying/#1Photocopyingunderfairdealingforprivatestudyorresearch Most countries have similar fair dealing/fair usage laws http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fair_dealing As Lyn says, making a single copy of a pattern in a book, for your own personal use does *not* infringe copyright and it doesn't matter whether that book belongs to the individual or has been (legally) borrowed from a library. Brenda On 30 May 2010, at 23:10, lynrbai...@desupernet.net wrote: > So if nothing else, if a library, which is not defined in the act, and > therefore is given its normal definition, which is public, private, anything, > does not know that its book can be purchased for a reasonable fee, copying of > the work for private study, scholarship, or research is permitted. > > I am also aware of licensing agreements so that copyrighted material can be > used without buying a copy if you pay the licensing fee. But that would be > for items where the copy is available at a reasonable fee. > > Faced with the above, I would suggest that most of what lacemakers do is for > private study, scholarship or research, as most of us are studying the making > of lace. How many members of arachne are in the business of making lace for > sale anyway? Brenda in Allhallows www.brendapaternoster.me.uk - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Pricking material/libraries
nprofit educational institution that functions as such, may reproduce, distribute, display, or perform in facsimile or digital form a copy or phonorecord of such work, or portions thereof, for purposes of preservation, scholarship, or research, if such library or archives has first determined, on the basis of a reasonable investigation, that none of the conditions set forth in subparagraphs (A), (B), and (C) of paragraph (2) apply. (2) No reproduction, distribution, display, or performance is authorized under this subsection if — (A) the work is subject to normal commercial exploitation; (B) a copy or phonorecord of the work can be obtained at a reasonable price; or * * * [I have deleted sections of this act, they don't like large emails, but I got this from: http://www.copyright.gov/title17/92chap1.html#101 where you will find other sections of that chapter, and can also access the other chapters of the US Copyright Act. So if nothing else, if a library, which is not defined in the act, and therefore is given its normal definition, which is public, private, anything, does not know that its book can be purchased for a reasonable fee, copying of the work for private study, scholarship, or research is permitted. I am also aware of licensing agreements so that copyrighted material can be used without buying a copy if you pay the licensing fee. But that would be for items where the copy is available at a reasonable fee. Faced with the above, I would suggest that most of what lacemakers do is for private study, scholarship or research, as most of us are studying the making of lace. How many members of arachne are in the business of making lace for sale anyway? Lyn of Pennsylvania, US, where it is a glorious Memorial Day weekend. The possible rain never appeared. -Original Message- >From: robinl...@socal.rr.com >Sent: May 30, 2010 3:12 AM >To: dmt11h...@aol.com, lace@arachne.com >Subject: Re: [lace] Pricking material/libraries > > dmt11h...@aol.com wrote: >Is it legal to read a book borrowed from a library in England? After all, you >haven't paid for it. If not, why do we have libraries? I do not think that >the copying of a pattern from a library book for >personal use would be considered illegal in the US. > >In the US, public libraries pay a lot more for magazine/journal subscriptions >because they will be used by more than 1 person (like a personal >subscription). Public libraries have "rules" they follow, and memberships and >fees to make their materials available to the public. This is how they can >allow people to read their books and, therefore, I think it is also legal to >copy (for personal use) from public library materials. > >However, organization libraries do not follow public library "rules", so I >believe their materials are not actually legally available for members' >copying. Many organizations such as lace guilds maintain a library because so >few people know (or care) about copyright restrictions. The members pool >their money and use it to buy books for all to use, but that is probably not >legal. > >English Lace Society, like many other "private" (restricted-access) libraries, >avoid organization liability by publishing the restriction--if someone goes >ahead and violates the organization's policy, that's the person's liability. > >Robin P. >Los Angeles, California, USA >robinl...@socal.rr.com > > >Devon > >- >To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: >unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to >arachnemodera...@yahoo.com > >- >To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: >unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to >arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Pricking material/libraries
dmt11h...@aol.com wrote: Is it legal to read a book borrowed from a library in England? After all, you haven't paid for it. If not, why do we have libraries? I do not think that the copying of a pattern from a library book for personal use would be considered illegal in the US. In the US, public libraries pay a lot more for magazine/journal subscriptions because they will be used by more than 1 person (like a personal subscription). Public libraries have "rules" they follow, and memberships and fees to make their materials available to the public. This is how they can allow people to read their books and, therefore, I think it is also legal to copy (for personal use) from public library materials. However, organization libraries do not follow public library "rules", so I believe their materials are not actually legally available for members' copying. Many organizations such as lace guilds maintain a library because so few people know (or care) about copyright restrictions. The members pool their money and use it to buy books for all to use, but that is probably not legal. English Lace Society, like many other "private" (restricted-access) libraries, avoid organization liability by publishing the restriction--if someone goes ahead and violates the organization's policy, that's the person's liability. Robin P. Los Angeles, California, USA robinl...@socal.rr.com Devon - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Pricking material
When I want to use a pattern, I take my book to our local copy shop. There, I can choose from a huge range of colours - so I take my thread along to try against the paper. It's amazing how shades of white can blend into something like pale blue. Also, you can find a shade that is going to be kind to your eyes, as well as being agreeable with your pillow covering. Once I have a satisfactory copy, (or copies if I'm going to want to keep joining pieces of pattern for a long piece of edging lace), I cut out the pieces. Then the kind lady in the shop puts them through her machine which laminates them. Although the plastic coating is very thin, it is enough to make the paper sturdy enough to use, yet still being very easy to prick - even for my arthritic fingers, and has all the working lines. Also, of course, it seals in the copier ink. Since it is a photocopy, there are no mistakes. Coloured paper saves you having to find coloured film, and there is none of the work of covering the pattern with the film and sticking it down: with my clumsy fingers, that has always been a challenge. I have used this method for several different sorts of lace for many years, including several yards of a narrow edging made on the roller of a travel pillow.These patterns are quite easy to wrap around even a roller of narrow diameter and with no distortion. All my patterns are still as good as new, and ready for further use. Being thin they are also very easy to store in those double-sided plastic envelope pages that fit into a ring binder, along with a spare copy of the pattern and notes of the source, any changes I made, problems, and so on. With all these benefits, I haven't felt the need to use pricking card for many years, even though I still have a store of it. There is the point that I'm lucky in having a helpful copy shop nearby, but these days I understand that many computer printers will also work as photocopiers, and that small lamination machines can be bought quite cheaply in the sales. While I'm not personally 're-purposing' my cereal boxes, I do send them to the recycling centre so they are re-used. Hoping this is helpful, Linda Walton, in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K., where it is cold and gloomy, with rain and a blustery wind - but then it is the Spring Bank Holiday weekend, so what else could we expect! - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Pricking material/libraries
Devon wrote: Authors in the UK register the ISBN of their books with the Public Lending Right. A sum is set aside to be distributed to authors depending on the number of borrowings each year. A sample of all borrowings are taken from selected libraries and the total number of borrowing of all books is divided into the sum allocated to determine the sum payable per borrowing. Authors then get that sum multiplied by the number of times their book has been borrowed. When I was teaching, the local authority had a license to copy for educational purposes, and we had to enter into a record book the number of pages and copies made from each book. All copies made from any source, whether copyrighted or not including any material written by the teacher, had to be entered and the school was only allowed a tiny percentages of "forgotten to be entered" copies. The last time I took a lace book into a local copy shop to copy the pricking, I was refused on the grounds of copyright. They would only copy it if I got a letter from the author giving me permission to do it, even though I pointed out that it was meant to be copied and used as a pattern, and the page in the book would be destroyed if I pricked the book page. Gather they'd recently had problems after copying from a book. That was when I bought a scanner. Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Pricking material/libraries
Is it legal to read a book borrowed from a library in England? After all, you haven't paid for it. If not, why do we have libraries? I do not think that the copying of a pattern from a library book for personal use would be considered illegal in the US. Devon - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Pricking material
In our public library, a sign above the photocopier indicates the library (ergo the users) has paid into the national organization to do with copyright and personal use of whatever, and pages for one's personal use may be photocopied from library books. I wonder, if there is concern that 'the designer hasn't been paid' that a pay-per-use system could be worked out for the lace organization (and I'm aware they are volunteer). What could happen, if the library book may not be copied from, it will just sit on the shelf, and nobody will benefit. 'stealing' is a harsh word; 'appropriation' perhaps. It is a can/may thing - hard to police except in a controlled situation. Is it worth it, in the cause of lace? Just some thoughts on a foggy morning. On Sat, May 29, 2010 at 2:17 AM, Jean Nathan wrote: > > What is not allowed is copying a pattern to give to someone else or > multiple copies to use in a class. Authors get very little for their > published work without people stealing it. > > I think it's the Lace Society that points out that if you borrow a book > from their library, legally you are not allowed to copy and use a pricking > from it because you have not purchased the book and have therefore not paid > the designer to use their work. > > -- Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Pricking material
It's perfectly OK to photocopy a pattern for pricking from a book that you've bought. In fact in some of my lace books there is the statement that this can be done on the copyright page. What is not allowed is copying a pattern to give to someone else or multiple copies to use in a class. Authors get very little for their published work without people stealing it. I think it's the Lace Society that points out that if you borrow a book from their library, legally you are not allowed to copy and use a pricking from it because you have not purchased the book and have therefore not paid the designer to use their work. Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
RE: [lace] Pricking material
That's what we do in Malta. We all copy patterns and use the copy to work the lace over it. If the pillow is soft then we may put a piece of card behind the paper. Depending on what the pattern is (i.e. whether it may stay long on the pillow or whether I may want to use it more than once) then I would cover it with plastic film. Or at most just pin an ordinary piece of plastic over it. As far as I know, there is absolutely no harm in photocopying a pattern from a book as long as it is for your own personal use. I wouldn't do it any other way because, for me, books are sacrosanct. There is no way I would tear a page out of a book even if it was meant to be taken out. Usually my books are as new as the day I buy them - and it was the same with my school books because I wouldn't even write in them! Karen in Malta -Original Message- From: owner-l...@arachne.com [mailto:owner-l...@arachne.com] On Behalf Of lynrbai...@desupernet.net Sent: 28 May 2010 21:11 To: lace@arachne.com Subject: [lace] Pricking material I do not actually make a lot of lace, for a number of reasons, so re-use of a pricking is immaterial to me. I tend to simply photocopy the pricking in the book on ordinary copy paper, and then, if it is a large pricking, I will use the blue film to attach it to the pillow. I have made Torchon bookmarks from photocopied prickings with great success. I have also purchased a packet of card stock from Staples, an office supply chain, and copied the pricking from the book onto that. The copier at the office is excellent, was free, and there was no chance of any distortion. At Staples, you can find 100 sheets of 8inches x 11 1/2inches card stock of varying colors and thickness, and I picked one that seemed right to me. Traditionally, of course, one used thick glazed card stock for prickings because the pricking was used over and over, perhaps for years, and it needed to be sturdy. This is also true when one is going to copy a pricking with a pricker, pricking each hole and so on. If all you're doing is going down the hall to the copier, and spend a minute or two, the need for something to last through a lot of use disappears. Which brings me to my question. Assuming the copy machine is accurate, and that you're only going to use the pattern once, is there any other reason not to photocopy? Or has this been discussed before I joined? The distinction between non-commercial production of lace, and the commercial production of lace comes into play in many areas of lacemaking. It behooves us to keep that as a factor when discussing the methods used to make lace. Lyn in Pennsylvania, US, where our Memorial Day weekend is going to have mixed periods of rain and sun. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Pricking material
If it is for a single use, I will often use file folders. I always seem to have tons of them around. It is thinner than usual card stock, so I would not use it for a lace with tightly packed pins, such as one of Ulrike's moths. :) Sherry - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Pricking material
I do not actually make a lot of lace, for a number of reasons, so re-use of a pricking is immaterial to me. I tend to simply photocopy the pricking in the book on ordinary copy paper, and then, if it is a large pricking, I will use the blue film to attach it to the pillow. I have made Torchon bookmarks from photocopied prickings with great success. I have also purchased a packet of card stock from Staples, an office supply chain, and copied the pricking from the book onto that. The copier at the office is excellent, was free, and there was no chance of any distortion. At Staples, you can find 100 sheets of 8inches x 11 1/2inches card stock of varying colors and thickness, and I picked one that seemed right to me. Traditionally, of course, one used thick glazed card stock for prickings because the pricking was used over and over, perhaps for years, and it needed to be sturdy. This is also true when one is going to copy a pricking with a pricker, pricking each hole and so on. If all you're doing is going down the hall to the copier, and spend a minute or two, the need for something to last through a lot of use disappears. Which brings me to my question. Assuming the copy machine is accurate, and that you're only going to use the pattern once, is there any other reason not to photocopy? Or has this been discussed before I joined? The distinction between non-commercial production of lace, and the commercial production of lace comes into play in many areas of lacemaking. It behooves us to keep that as a factor when discussing the methods used to make lace. Lyn in Pennsylvania, US, where our Memorial Day weekend is going to have mixed periods of rain and sun. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Pricking card and cereal boxes
I understand that it's what is used for electronic circuit boards. However, many years ago in the late 1960s when I worked in a lab for Ministry of Defence in Woolwich Arsenal testing papers and boards we used to test something called 'glazed board' which used as casing for ammunition cartridges. This was thin, dense, shiny card, the same as we use for pricking card, but not having embarked on my lace career then I missed the opportunity of getting masses of the (left over) stuff for free! Brenda On 28 May 2010, at 16:00, laceandb...@aol.com wrote: > Now a question, does anyone know what *real* pricking card is actually made > for. I don't believe it's made for lace makers only; we just re-purpose it > as it does the job we want. Brenda in Allhallows www.brendapaternoster.me.uk - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Pricking card and cereal boxes
Jacquie wrote > And another > example would be architects linen which was obviously never made for needle > lacers. Now that's something I have experience of :o) I rescued a roll from going in the skip at work when we were clearing out the store room. It hadn't been used in Drawing Offices for many years having been superseded by drafting film many years ago. Claire Kent,UK Claire Allen www.bonitocrafts.co.uk Crafty stuff I want to show off. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Pricking card and cereal boxes
In a message dated 28/05/2010 14:35:26 GMT Daylight Time, hottl...@neo.rr.com writes: > Now a question--has anyone used a cereal box as an inexpensive > alternative for pricking card? All the time under either graph paper or a photocopy pricking. Not so often if I want to ink onto the card. It's good if you want to prick-as-you-go because it is a little softer than real pricking card, so you can use all but the finest pin to make the hole. It's what we were given to work on at the lace class in Moscow, so now I wouldn't dream of teaching Michailov lace using anything else I wouldn't use it if I wanted to use the pricking more than once - in the way you might use two lengths of pricking to leapfrog on a block pillow or round a roller pillow - as it does break down more easily than the very compressed pricking card. Also the backs of greetings cards, or just two layers of the 160grams per sq metre art type card, that will feed happily through a photocopier. Now a question, does anyone know what *real* pricking card is actually made for. I don't believe it's made for lace makers only; we just re-purpose it as it does the job we want. In much the same way as the very fine silk mesh which is sold for an exorbitant figure in tiny pieces for doll house scale embroidery is actually silk screen printing mesh. (When I bought it as a length about 20 years ago it was nearly £100 a metre, but selling it on to the dolls house club members in 10cm squares, at considerably less than the small-piece commercial going rate, I still trebled my money.) And another example would be architects linen which was obviously never made for needle lacers. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
RE: [lace] Re: lace pricking - proceeds to charity
What a great idea, Sue! I watch my weaving friends do this for making placemats and napkins but never thought about it for lace. Thanks, Dona -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Sue Babbs Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 7:06 PM To: lace@arachne.com Subject: Re: [lace] Re: lace pricking - proceeds to charity I usually plait between sections where I am going to cut the lace. I make the lace long enough to work into the seams of the pillowcase (allowing for shrinkage) and then plait down for an inch or two before starting the next piece of lace. It saves re-winding and is psychologically less stressful to cut the plaits! Sue - Original Message - From: "Jeanette Fischer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > pillowcases as birthday gifts for my daughter and DIL. I had decided to > make > a continuous strip of lace and cut it to fit the pillowcase as the edges > of > the lace will be caught in the side seam of the pillowcase. Now that it > is > finished, I am going to need a lot of courage to cut it! The alternative > was to wind bobbins between each short strip and that is not an option > either!! > Jeanette Fischer, Western Cape, South Africa. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Re: lace pricking - proceeds to charity
I usually plait between sections where I am going to cut the lace. I make the lace long enough to work into the seams of the pillowcase (allowing for shrinkage) and then plait down for an inch or two before starting the next piece of lace. It saves re-winding and is psychologically less stressful to cut the plaits! Sue - Original Message - From: "Jeanette Fischer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> pillowcases as birthday gifts for my daughter and DIL. I had decided to make a continuous strip of lace and cut it to fit the pillowcase as the edges of the lace will be caught in the side seam of the pillowcase. Now that it is finished, I am going to need a lot of courage to cut it! The alternative was to wind bobbins between each short strip and that is not an option either!! Jeanette Fischer, Western Cape, South Africa. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: lace pricking - proceeds to charity
I looked at this website that was under discussion a week or two ago http://www.heartlandlace.org/Cure.htm. On the website I saw the 1000 leaves club. I have just finished 2 metres of Cluny - the clementines pattern, and all excited started counting the leaves - only 220!! I must admit though that it is a rather simple pattern and it took met only about 6 weeks to make the lace working about 4 hours per day. I plan to put the lace on pillowcases as birthday gifts for my daughter and DIL. I had decided to make a continuous strip of lace and cut it to fit the pillowcase as the edges of the lace will be caught in the side seam of the pillowcase. Now that it is finished, I am going to need a lot of courage to cut it! The alternative was to wind bobbins between each short strip and that is not an option either!! Jeanette Fischer, Western Cape, South Africa. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Re: lace pricking - proceeds to charity
Mark (and everyone) Thanks for sharing this link, and thanks to Micki for bringing it to our attention again ;) Are there any more contributions than listed in the pdf? Does the group want more? (I would guess so). I would make a piece just because I like the project - the idea and the pattern - although I don't want to win it. On Feb 12, 2008 11:26 AM, Mark, aka Tatman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Micki, > You might be thinking of the HLG(Heartland Lace Guild) challenge to make a > section of garland for Breast Cancer. Go here to check it out: > http://www.heartlandlace.org/Cure.htm > > In breezy and VERY chilly Greenville, IL USA -- Bev (near Sooke, BC on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: lace pricking - proceeds to charity
Micki, You might be thinking of the HLG(Heartland Lace Guild) challenge to make a section of garland for Breast Cancer. Go here to check it out: http://www.heartlandlace.org/Cure.htm In breezy and VERY chilly Greenville, IL USA Mark, aka Tatman Www.tat-man.net Www.tat-man.net/blog On 2/12/08 12:48 PM, "micki" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I am looking for the website that has a lace pricking on it (for a section of > a christmas tree garland?) - lacemakers could take part in a sponsorship with > proceeds going to charity? > > does this trigger a memory? I know this was discussed recently, but my mind > has gone blank, I don't even know what to search for through the archives. > > please help > > thank you > Micki > Scotland - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] lace pricking - proceeds to charity
I am looking for the website that has a lace pricking on it (for a section of a christmas tree garland?) - lacemakers could take part in a sponsorship with proceeds going to charity? does this trigger a memory? I know this was discussed recently, but my mind has gone blank, I don't even know what to search for through the archives. please help thank you Micki Scotland - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Pricking size change help needed
I am getting ready to do a demo for the boyscout's tomorrow and discovered that the thread I thought I had is not there (student may have borrowed it and forgot to tell me) I needed to use a 80 perle cotton. I want to use a 80/3 linen. Can someone let me know the % of size change I need to do to the pricking so it would work right? I can't find my conversion book. Shere'e Seattle, WA USA - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Pricking sought
Babs, Christine Springetts books have a couple of wedding horseshoes. One book is the "Lace for Children of All Ages" and the other one is her latest book "Lace for Special Occasions". Both books have small horseshoes too which can be put onto wedding cards or used to make little cushioned hangers with the couples details embroidered in the centre etc., which could be given to the bride in place of a horseshoe if a long enough loop of ribbon is added to the top.Lace for Special Occasions also has a wedding garter pattern in it. SMP lace sells these books and gives a quick service as a general rule, Russell Perrin will take credit card payments via the details over the phone or by letter but not online. SMPs website is at http://www.smplace.co.uk/ Look at the catalogue and under the heading books, followed by Books on Lace, there you will find a listing of authors of lace books, Christine Springett is listed under S. You can see the small photos of the front covers of her books here for an idea of the horseshoes etc. Amazon.co.uk also sell the books but no photos of the covers are shown here, they have a couple of Christine's books on their New and Used system at reduced prices. But delivery is not so quick as that of SMP. I have made several of the horseshoe pattern from the book Lace for children of all ages and can send you a photo of one of these I have made if you want to see how it comes out. It is made mostly in torchon ground with a little bit of honeycomb stitch I can make one of these in about 5 hours once the bobbins are on the pillow. Christine's instructions are very precise and clear. I used the Gold Rush thread in Silver throughout, apart form the blue gimp around the edge. Christine's instructions say to use white thread with a blue gimp and then to mount the horseshoe onto Silver coloured card cut into a horseshoe shape, but I can't get that sort of card here. So I make my silver thread horseshoe then use a liquid called Stiffy and paint that on the back, a couple of coats usually does the trick and I then don't need the card. I cover a cork tile with plastic film pinned out taut and lay the horseshoe face down on that, putting in a couple of pins to hold it steady. Then I paint on the stiffy and leave it to dry for at least 24 hours, giving a second coat then if I feel it necessary, you only need a thin coat each time so as not to clog the holes in the lace. Because I use gold rush instead of the recommended thread I obviously don't cut the lengths of thread to Christine's measurements but just fill the bobbins with as much gold rush as I can. I think I use about 4mts or so per bobbin. Any left over lengths can be used up on smaller projects as silver gimps etc., I also make some of the little flowers from the same book. These flowers are made in the form of a strip with a wavy edge, of varying depth of wave, the strip is then gathered up using the passive threads which are left long when cutting off the bobbins. These little flowers are used in the book for alice band and card decoration, I add a little pearl seed bead to the centre of each flower and usually use 3 flowers per horseshoe. I drew up a leaf shape on a bit of pricking card and pricked holes around the edge to make up 3 green leaves from this, again using Stiffy to stiffen the flowers and leaves enough to hold their shape and bend the leaves and the "petals" of the flowers to shape them a little and give a bit of life to both. I then stitch these to the front of the horseshoe instead of the silk flowers that Christine used. Add a blue satin ribbon handle and voila! The giving of horseshoes is not a custom here and when I have given one of these silver horseshoes to a Spanish bride they have been delighted with it and are fascinated by the custom. The book Lace for Special Occasions also has a rosette to put on the front of white satin wedding shoes, an edging for place cards, wedding hankies and a head dress for the bride in two sizes. There are also piece of lace used on photo frames for photos of the babies that come later. There is also a circle of lace to use behind a posy of flowers. All sorts of ideas there for you to ponder. Regards Jenny DeAngelis Spain. I'm looking for various prickings for wedding horse-shoes and garters so that I can make a few to sell at our local charity craft fair. Could anyone point me in the right direction please. Thanks, Babs (Chesterfield) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Pricking sought
Hello All, I'm looking for various prickings for wedding horse-shoes and garters so that I can make a few to sell at our local charity craft fair. Could anyone point me in the right direction please. Thanks, Babs (Chesterfield) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] pricking on card
Hi All, Most copiers will work with thin card without problem. I use coloured card (160/200 gsm) and photocopy the pattern directly on to that. It can be covered with film if required but for a 'single use' pattern is fine as it is. Certainly I find it better than paper. A4 (and I imagine American letter size) sheets of coloured card can be bought at most stationery/art shops. The colour I use depends on the colour of the threads to be used in the project. Happy lacing Andrea Lamble Cambridge (UK) - where the promised frost didn't materialise. (apologies if this message goes through more than once - got an error message the first time) _ Windows Live Messenger has arrived. Click here to download it for free! http://imagine-msn.com/messenger/launch80/?locale=en-gb - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Pricking card
My question on what the intended use is for the card that we use for pricking only got two responses - Brenda confirmed my thoughts on card for cartridge cases, and Vivienne Walton from Presencia/Biggins emailed me privately and said they buy it as pattern cutting card, which they understand is used by the clothing industry for pattern cutting. I think I might have seen something similar bit thinner used as electrical insulation (which had ben the other suggestion) but I'm not sure about that. Whebn I did my City and Guilds in Dressmaking and Pattern Cutting (for the clothing industry) many years ago, the card we used was in the same colour range, and was a similar/same thickness, but it wasn't glazed like a lot of the pricking card on sale. There is some pricking card which isn't glazed, but my personal preference is for the glazed type. Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Pricking card
Back in the late 1960s I worked for MOD in Woolwich Arsenal testing papers and boards. We quite often had "glazed board" which was used for cartridge cases in for testing. After all tests were completed and satisfactory any excess was disposed of - I could have brought home loads of pricking card but I didn't make or know anything about BL then. Brenda On 19 Sep 2006, at 08:37, Jean Nathan wrote: The pricking card looks a special type. Yes, it's treated with something and the holes don't stretch out of shape as easily as ordinary card, so it helps to keep the pins firmly in place. Was it made particulary for lacemaking? No. Some (including the teacher) said they understood it's primary use was as an electrical insulation, but others (including me) think it's used in the making of shotgun cartridges. Brenda http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/ - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Pricking card
We had a new member join our lace group yesterday. She has never made lace before, but said it's always something she thought was absolutley wonderful and would like to learn it some day. Now she is. Our teacher had spangled some bobbins for her, but had left a few for her to do for herself so that she knew how to do it and why it's done. She'd also prepared a pricking with most of the pinholes drawn and pricked, but had left a few lightly penciled in for the new lady to ink in and then prick herself. Most of the bobbins were wound, and just two pairs were left for th lady to wind. I'd not seen this before and thought it was a very good idea to give this lady just an indication of what processes are involved before embarking on a project. Then she started on a smalll bookmark. She was really thrilled that she'd learned so much in her first session, but one question she asked, we had two different answers for: The pricking card looks a special type. Yes, it's treated with something and the holes don't stretch out of shape as easily as ordinary card, so it helps to keep the pins firmly in place. Was it made particulary for lacemaking? No. Some (including the teacher) said they understood it's primary use was as an electrical insulation, but others (including me) think it's used in the making of shotgun cartridges. Any opinions, or knowledge? Is it one or the other, both or something else altogether? Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Pricking point ground in Bucks.
I have no experience with Bucks at all, but am curious to see some prickings with the effect described below. I wonder wether the wavy grids of Knipling meet this feature, or wether the effect is more complex. ... It is a warning against automatically truing up all old patterns on a totally regular grid. "The pricking of old Buckinghamshire narrow edgings is difficult to copy because towards the head of the lace the rows of holes are usually placed closer together in order to get a less pointed effect in the geometrical forms which characterise them. The simple fan pattern [the standard cloth fan with curved headside in virtually all beginners' Bucks books] would be too long and pointed to look well if drawn on the net as it stands. Towards the head the rows are placed nearer together to obtain a more square effect. The ground then approximates to a Torchon pricking and does not look so well when worked, the holes appearing to be long instead of round, but only a little of it shows between the cloth work fans and the defect is passed over for the sake of obtaining the pleasanter effect in the geometrical pattern". - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Pricking point ground in Bucks.
On 2/27/06, Leonard Bazar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > into the second edition. It is a warning against > automatically truing up all old patterns on a totally > regular grid > > ... Towards the head the rows are > placed nearer together to obtain a more square effect. ... > I personally find the most efficient way of working > the ground is to do a row without pins, then put them > in, checking that the stitches look (or rather feel) > ok, and then, as already recommended, removing pins > that are so out of place that they distort the ground. The foregoing, excellent advice and information. The old pattern I'm working is itself a student-made pricking, and perhaps not by a practiced hand. There are little surprises such as rogue pinholes However I will pay attention to the ground once the correct number of bobbins is established. I need to get a handle on the pattern as a whole. > work. I have not seen an old pillow with Bucks on it > without the sea of pins either in real life or a > photo; has anyone else? I strongly suspect that the > prickings without pins in the ground were for a > plaited ground, such as Mechlin or Valenciennes, where > the more stable nature of the ground avoided this > problem. I will try to locate the reference to pinless point ground (i.e. Bucks) for speed - it made sense to me at the time, but might only have been that particular writer's theory. It occurred to me that if this was common practice, why would the ground areas be pricked necessarily. But maybe the worker needs them for reference. Interesting speculation. -- Bev in Sooke BC (on Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada) Cdn. floral bobbins www.woodhavenbobbins.com blogging lace at www.looonglace.blogspot.com - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Pricking point ground in Bucks.
As ever, Miss Channer has some interesting side-lights on this. It's on p.70 of her "Practical Lacemaking", but unfortunately not one of the sections that made it into the second edition. It is a warning against automatically truing up all old patterns on a totally regular grid. "The pricking of old Buckinghamshire narrow edgings is difficult to copy because towards the head of the lace the rows of holes are usually placed closer together in order to get a less pointed effect in the geometrical forms which characterise them. The simple fan pattern [the standard cloth fan with curved headside in virtually all beginners' Bucks books] would be too long and pointed to look well if drawn on the net as it stands. Towards the head the rows are placed nearer together to obtain a more square effect. The ground then approximates to a Torchon pricking and does not look so well when worked, the holes appearing to be long instead of round, but only a little of it shows between the cloth work fans and the defect is passed over for the sake of obtaining the pleasanter effect in the geometrical pattern". I personally find the most efficient way of working the ground is to do a row without pins, then put them in, checking that the stitches look (or rather feel) ok, and then, as already recommended, removing pins that are so out of place that they distort the ground. One of the problems, or rather features, of floral Bucks is that the cloth pins are not usually on the ground grid, so leaving out all of the ground pins and relying on cloth pins to keep the lines straight won't work. I have not seen an old pillow with Bucks on it without the sea of pins either in real life or a photo; has anyone else? I strongly suspect that the prickings without pins in the ground were for a plaited ground, such as Mechlin or Valenciennes, where the more stable nature of the ground avoided this problem. [EMAIL PROTECTED], returning to his tangram, one of the many things to do for the Lace Guild Durham convention... ___ Win a BlackBerry device from O2 with Yahoo!. Enter now. http://www.yahoo.co.uk/blackberry - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Pricking for a bat
Thanks to those of you who came up with suggestions for the bat pricking. Haven't found one in "Lace Express" (just about every other creature, but not a bat), but then I am mssing some of the earlier ones.The group leader has the whole set, so she's going to look there. She also has "Hausdrachen". I've passed on the other information to the lady concerned. The group was amazed that it was so easy to get suggestons, but I've not persuaded any of them to jon the list - bit technophobic I think. Thanks again. Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Fw: [lace] Pricking for a bat
A message from Martina about the bat pattern Sue Dear Sue, please would you forward my mail to lace. I can't write to the list myself, due to a change in e-mail address. Thank you! Martina Hello, I have seen the pricking of a bat in a book for children. It's the 2nd vol. - Torchon. "Aller Anfang ist Spitze" You can see the cover on the site here. http://www.deutscher-kloeppelverband.de/ Greetings from Germany, Martina - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Pricking for a bat
Gracious, Robin!! Who needs a library file with you around?? Yes, there is a bat in "Hausdrachen". It's the last pattern in the portfolio, and she describes it as pulled thread embroidery (on organza). The pattern makes up as a purse. Very cute. Clay Clay Blackwell [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [Original Message] > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: > Date: 2/5/2006 11:08:50 PM > Subject: Re: [lace] Pricking for a bat > > Isn't there a bat in Ulrike Lohr's box of patterns, "Hausdrachen"? My > BL books are still all packed away, so I can't check, but I seem to > remember a bat. It may be embroidered, as not all the patterns in the > box are BL. > > Robin P. > Los Angeles, California, USA > (formerly Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania) > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > - Original Message - > From: Jean Nathan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Anyone know of a pattern for a bat in bobbin lace? The type that > > flies in > > the dark, hangs upside down in caves and navigates by sonar > > - > To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: > unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to > [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Pricking for a bat
Isn't there a bat in Ulrike Lohr's box of patterns, "Hausdrachen"? > Robin P. There is a bat, but it's not bobbin lace - embroidery on silk organza, and outlined with cord. It is a very cute bat though and it might be nice to adapt the design to bobbin lace. Sue - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Pricking for a bat
Isn't there a bat in Ulrike Lohr's box of patterns, "Hausdrachen"? My BL books are still all packed away, so I can't check, but I seem to remember a bat. It may be embroidered, as not all the patterns in the box are BL. Robin P. Los Angeles, California, USA (formerly Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania) [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Jean Nathan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Anyone know of a pattern for a bat in bobbin lace? The type that > flies in > the dark, hangs upside down in caves and navigates by sonar - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Pricking for a bat
I think there was a pricking for a bat in Lace Express a few years ago. If anyone subscribes to Lace Express they coiuld check it out and let us know. Cheers, Yvonne. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Pricking for a bat
The bats in our part of the world are not dangerous. They can be pests if they get in your attic, but that can be resolved. But as part of our ecological niche, they are positive contributors! I'm in "the city", meaning that we have street lights in front of our house (mores the pity). You can see the bats swooping back and forth in the light at night, feeding on the bugs that are attracted to the light. We also have a little creek in the wooded area behind our house and a small stream just beyond which the creek feeds into, both of which attract lots of birds - and mosquitos, in the summer. In come the bats... and eat their weight in those nasty little bugs!! So we're all about building bat houses and encouraging them - anywhere but in the attic! So I would like to see a bat pattern for lace too! Clay Clay Blackwell [EMAIL PROTECTED] > From: Diane Williams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > If you find one I would like it also! - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Pricking for a bat
Jean Nathan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:Anyone know of a pattern for a bat in bobbin lace? I don't know of a bat pattern but this site http://www.coloring.ws/bats1.htm has children's colouring pictures that you can print out and some would be a good basis for a tape lace pattern. jennt barron sunny Scotland - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Pricking for a bat
Jean, If you find one I would like it also! Galena is notorious for bats and we are always getting them in the courthouse where I work. One lady is VERY nervous about them, so I made her a tatted bat from a pattern I found online. She laughed and says that's the only one she wants to see. It's taped to her computer monitor. Of course they're endangered and we aren't supposed to kill them, but the court security office is pretty agressive in his method of capture and if they don't survive once they are removed from the building, oh well. They are fun to watch in the summer twilight, diving and flitting around the trees, but they are squeaky and agressive when they get in your house! We've had at least one get in every house we've lived in in town. Diane Williams Galena, Illinois USA - go Steelers! [EMAIL PROTECTED] --- Jean Nathan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Anyone know of a pattern for a bat in bobbin lace? > The type that flies in > the dark, hangs upside down in caves and navigates > by sonar - not the type > you hit things with. One of the ladies in my Monday > lace group has been > asked to make one by her granddaughter when she's > finished what she's > currently working on. No-one could think of one. > > I don't remember seeing one in any of the > books/magazines I've got, and the > best I could come up with was combining the body of > a mouse with the wings > of a dragon and making the necessarily > modifications. > > Jean in Poole, Dorset UK > > - > To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] > containing the line: > unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write > to > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Pricking for a bat
Anyone know of a pattern for a bat in bobbin lace? The type that flies in the dark, hangs upside down in caves and navigates by sonar - not the type you hit things with. One of the ladies in my Monday lace group has been asked to make one by her granddaughter when she's finished what she's currently working on. No-one could think of one. I don't remember seeing one in any of the books/magazines I've got, and the best I could come up with was combining the body of a mouse with the wings of a dragon and making the necessarily modifications. Jean in Poole, Dorset UK - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] Pricking card (was Hello from a newbie)
Hello Jenny and welcome I think you have discovered by now there is a wealth of very experienced lacemakers here to help you. They truly are amazing in the collective knowledge they have so don't be afraid to to ask questions. I only have one point to add > > Pricking card If you use plastic film to cover your prickings try to get hold of the non reflective kind its easier on the eye when you are looking at it for long periods. Personally I didn't use plastic film for a long time, I pricked straight on to the card from my paper pattern and then just used the card, after all if you are only going to use the pattern for a short period and then never again it is pointless going to all that trouble. It is usually only of benefit if you intend using the pattern again and again because you like it so much or because you are using it to make yards of lace or possibly because there is a lot of detail on the paper pattern that you want to retain for working with, although we transferred the cloth trail in pencil on to the card and then went over it with a permanent ink pen, doing this helps to concentrate the mind on the direction of the cloth trail and you make less mistakes that way (well that's the theory) :-) Hope this helps and doesn't confuse you even more. Best regards Jane Bawn Portchester UK Robin wrote: > Yes. Or you can start by using cardstock, such as manila > folders. I recommend you also get some transparent sticky film, > such as Contact paper or Formex. Then you don't absolutely need > cards, just sandwich the paper pattern between two layers of > film. Or one layer of film over the paper pattern and cardstock > underneath it. > > - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Pricking
In spite of the time it takes to actually prick all the holes, I find that I learn a lot about the pattern if I prick them before making the lace. I try to prick them in order of work (footside, ground, motif, next motif, headside, back to footside, etc). I often find myself figuring out the sequence of work, passage of threads, or identifying where I don't understand the pattern and even, if its an old pattern, where a pin hole is missing or off true. To start without pricking would be strange to me now. I will sometimes prick out part of a pattern, even if I don't particularly want to produce the lace, if the pattern is in a sequence of difficulty between a pattern I've already done and another I wish to do. I did this a lot with bucks point when I was just learning it. I collected as many patterns as I could from our guild library, sorted them out by difficulty, then started pricking at least two repeats of most of them to learn the logic of this lace technique. Its faster than making the lace, takes less room, and I found it a great intellectual challenge. I also learned to read bucks point patterns better than just looking at them in books, and faster than making the samples of lace. Than again, its the internal logic of the various techniques that fascinates me more than the actual making of the lace... go figure... Lucie DuFresne Ottawa Canada > Since things are quiet and you are encouraging newbies, I have method that > I > would like feedback on and it might help those of you who don't have much > time. I never prick patterns. I copy them on heavy blue cardstock (heavy > paper) and then put clear contact paper over the top. They seem to hold > the > pins really well and it saves a ton of time. Then I just pin as I work > the > lace with no prior pricking. Some of you are probably gasping in horror, > but > it works. I don't reuse them, just make more as needed. It is cheap and > quick. I don't every have to worry about pin pricks I might have missed. > The only down side is that I have dozens of these around that I have not > used yet. A case of more optimism than time, I guess. I don't know when > or > why I started doing this. (Remember I am self taught.) Is there any > reason, besides not being the traditional method, that I shouldn't be > doing > this? Damage to pins, thread, etc.? > > - > To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: > unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Pricking
Since things are quiet and you are encouraging newbies, I have method that I would like feedback on and it might help those of you who don't have much time. I never prick patterns. I copy them on heavy blue cardstock (heavy paper) and then put clear contact paper over the top. They seem to hold the pins really well and it saves a ton of time. Then I just pin as I work the lace with no prior pricking. Some of you are probably gasping in horror, but it works. I don't reuse them, just make more as needed. It is cheap and quick. I don't every have to worry about pin pricks I might have missed. The only down side is that I have dozens of these around that I have not used yet. A case of more optimism than time, I guess. I don't know when or why I started doing this. (Remember I am self taught.) Is there any reason, besides not being the traditional method, that I shouldn't be doing this? Damage to pins, thread, etc.? - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] [lace} pricking too big
I want to make a piece of Point Ground (Bucks Point, Chantilly, whatever) but the pricking is too big to fit on one piece of cardstock. What should I do? . . . Maybe I can just find a really huge piece of cardstock somewhere. Julie Dear Julie, Depending on how absolutely huge this thing is, a piece of poster board may do the trick. While thicker than card stock, it is softer, so it works out about the same. That would eliminate the need for piecing the pricking. (Assuming you have a pillow big enough!) I have seen some French prickings on glazed card stock that is not any thinner than poster board. Patty Dowden Trying to calculate how big to make a bolster pillow to work a piece about 24 inches wide (Kortlahti Vine). - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] [lace} pricking too big
I want to make a piece of Point Ground (Bucks Point, Chantilly, whatever) but the pricking is too big to fit on one piece of cardstock. What should I do? Be very specific. It seems to me that I've heard people talk about putting a pricking on two pieces that fit together, but I don't see how to do that. The holes are so close together that holes would fall into the gap in the best case. Is it really possible to do this with a type of lace with so many holes so close together? If I use two overlapping pieces, then what is the best way to make sure the overlap line up? I was thinking that I could start the pricking on one peice and then, as I approach the end of the piece, put the other piece underneath so that both pieces are pricked simultaneously. Maybe I can just find a really huge piece of cardstock somewhere. Julie Baltimore MD - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Pricking question
The "trick" I was taught when applying the sticky film to the pricking is to cut your piece of film, peel off the backing, and hold it on either side so that it droops down in the middle in a "U" shape. Then gently lower the bottom of the "U" on to the centre of your pricking until it is in contact with the pricking, then spread your hands apart to lay the film over the whole pricking. Never start from an end, always from the middle. Noelene in hot, hot Cooma. wondering how I ever survived living in the tropics all those years ago! [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://members.ozemail.com.au/~nlafferty/ - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Pricking question
In message <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Clay Blackwell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes >So my question is, do any of you have any clever tricks for >getting the blue film exactly where you intend it to be? I stopped using the film ages ago - if the pattern isn't too complex, it is far cheaper to use a waterproof pen to copy the markings onto the pricking card! However, when I have used film I use the same technique as for covering other things with contact paper (ie, sticky backed plastic). Cut the card larger than the pattern, and the film to cover or overlap the card edge to keep the pattern secure. Peel the backing off the film, and place film *sticky side up* on a table top or work surface. The static in the film holds it flat to the table, even if it has been stored as a roll. Then place whatever you want to cover face down onto the film, turn the lot over and smooth. When doing pricking sandwiches, we were taught to stick the pattern to the card first using a glue stick such as a Pritt Stick - this helps stop the irritating habit of the pattern and film lifting away from the card while you are pricking it - particularly in the middle of the pattern! -- Jane Partridge - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Pricking question
So my question is, do any of you have any clever tricks for getting the blue film exactly where you intend it to be? I'd LOVE to overcome this annoying little problem! I don't know if it's a clever trick but I only remove a corner of the blue film then place that corner exactly where I want it on the pricking then I unroll the backing paper while smoothing the blue film down with a ruler on the top of the film. Sounds almost complicated the way I've explained it but it works for me. jenny barron Snowy & cold but very sunny in Scotland - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Pricking question
I always put a few *very small* dabs of glue i.e.Pritt Stick on the back of the printed copy, this keeps it in place on the card until your ready with the film. Also you could try cutting the film slightly larger than needed then the excess can be trimmed off after. Well these work for me anyway. Diana in a dull miserable Northamptonshire - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Pricking question
snip... while trying to get the blue film properly centered over the printed pricking, the static in the film made the paper pop up and adhere to it... before I was ready!! This means that the film isn't quite where I wanted it, and, as usual, I ended up going "grrr..." (or something stronger. I wonder if some of the anti static spray would help. or rubbing the pattern (or film) with used fabric softener sheet BarbE - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Pricking question
Hello Spiders! Yesterday I finished the Binche handkerchief edging that I started in May!! It is resting on the pillow for a few days, and then I will do the joining... Several days ago I began the delicious task of deciding what project to tackle next. I've settled on a sampler in Ulrike Löhr's "Schneeverseht und Durchgedrecht". I love what she says about the title of this book: "The title of this book is a play on words in German and can't be translated precisely. It means the effect of many snowflakes forming a snowdrift and Lacemakers going mad." !! I've just spent a couple of hours scanning the pricking and the diagrams. After printing them out, I made my pricking "sandwich" with the "blue film" and lacemaker's card. As I was doing it, I had the same problem I *always* have doing this... while trying to get the blue film properly centered over the printed pricking, the static in the film made the paper pop up and adhere to it... before I was ready!! This means that the film isn't quite where I wanted it, and, as usual, I ended up going "grrr..." (or something stronger...). So my question is, do any of you have any clever tricks for getting the blue film exactly where you intend it to be? I'd LOVE to overcome this annoying little problem! I hope you've all had a good Holiday! Santa is in cahoots with one of my favorite vendors now, and I got five dozen new Binche bobbins!! Yippee!! Clay Clay Blackwell Lynchburg, VA USA A pretty, sunny day with temperatures in the high 40's (F). We may not be able to enjoy this weather long... - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] pricking
A couple of years ago I taught a lady who was absolutely desperate to learn to make lace. However, she didn't see why she should waste time doing the following: 1) Spangling bobbins (I don't want to use thumpers I want the 'pretty' ones - can't you do it for me?) 2) Wind the thread on the bobbin (what a waste of time - can't you do it for me -BUY A WINDER WOMAN) 3) Make a pricking (but there are too many holes - why can't you just buy them ready done? Can't you do it for me?) I asked her what she really wanted to do as all this was part of making lace. And she replied - with a straight face - I want people to come up to me when I demonstrating and admire all the work I've done. Needless to say I suggested she found another teacher as we obviously were not suited. When my mum was 60 I made my first piece of honiton - her initial with a flower in it. Now dad is turning 80 I want to do the same for him. I have the pricking ready - I made it 10 years ago when I did mum's but before I start the lace I will spend about 3 - 4 weeks just enjoying reading my honiton books and immersing myself in the style again. Yes, I'm making Bucks on another pillow and some torchon but I will enjoy looking at the books and thinking about which thread to use. Then I will wind a few bobbins a night and finally, get around to making the lace. For me, choosing the next pattern the I will spend a month working on is as important as making the last sewing on the lace and cutting the bobbins off. For me, it is the whole process, it doesn't matter if I'm 'only' choosing a bead or anything this is about time I spend on doing something I love and I love every part of it. There are very few crafts where you have access to so many parts of the process - how many painters today grind their own pigments or stretch their own canvases. We still do everything as our predecessors did and I want to hang onto every bit of that Liz --- Subj:[lace] pricking Date:Mon, 25 Aug 2003 12:04:16 pm GMT From:Celtic Dream Weaver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To:Celtic Dream Weaver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent from the Internet (Details) I always preprick my pricking before starting a lace peice. I call it part of the preparation for the lace. I, myself use a pieces of cut up cardboard from boxes that I would throw out anyways. I put a couple pieces of cardboard together with another board that the point of my pricker doesn't not go through. This works for me. I have never had any problem with it. Sherry [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] pricking
I always preprick my pricking before starting a lace peice. I call it part of the preparation for the lace. I, myself use a pieces of cut up cardboard from boxes that I would throw out anyways. I put a couple pieces of cardboard together with another board that the point of my pricker doesn't not go through. This works for me. I have never had any problem with it. Sherry [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Pricking
<> I also find it helps with putting the pins in. If I can't see the place I'm supposed to be putting in the pin very well (eg if it's in a tight spot surrounded by other pins) I can sort of feel where to put it by feeling for the pre-pricked hole with the pin tip. Regards, Annette, in London - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
