Re: [MBZ] MB vs. Sonata

2006-03-09 Thread mykd1
I wouldn't actually say they were crap, just still miles behind everything 
else. Now as for Honda and Toyota thats a different story. Last  few years both 
have actually been going backwards in their quality which in my opinion is 
because Honda is spending more money on Acura and Toyota doing the same for 
Lexus. Both Honda and Toyota are using cheaper materials and slacking on 
quality which maybe why Hyndai is catching up. Now I won't say VW is not beyond 
faults, but my Passat has far better road manners and higher fit and finish 
that not even Hyndai can compare. Now I do like the looks of the new Sonata and 
the even newer Azera which is nice, but they sort of look like what the Accord 
was 10 years ago. Now as for Subaru they have come a long way with their 4 
wheel drive and personally they are doing what they should be, and thats 
getting better when all others are falling behind 
 
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata   
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wed, 8 Mar 2006 18:58:06 -0500
Subject: Re: [MBZ] MB vs. Sonata


My guess would be because most everyone on this list regards their Benz's as
their babies and nothing else could compare.
And most people regard Hyundai's as crap.

And in my mind, the Benz's are just another car.  A somewhat unique car, and
some of them rather well built, but still another car that can break down.

Hyundai's are something that WAS crap in the early 90's.  I drove a friend's
Excel that had about 12 inches of play in the steering wheel.  Scared me to
death to drive that thing.  But from what I've read, the Hyundai's have come
a LONG way in the last 5 or so years.  They're now nearing in to Honda and
Toyota territory, but with prices around $5K less.
Of course to most of the people on this list Hondas and Toyotas are crap
too.

Personall, I like my 83' 300D.  It's interesting.  but I miss my 97'
Subaru with 214K miles every day I'm in the Benz.  When I'm in the Suby I
just kinda miss a couple things about the Benz... (little more room, can
run on anything liquid that burns)

Levi

On 3/8/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I'm curious here, why is everyone comparing a Hyndai with a MB? I know
 MB's have their faults, but comparing a disposable Korea car with something
 that has over a 100 year history doesn't make any sense to me. just my 2
 cents here, the only reason why Hyndai offers such a good warrantee is
 because without it they would be forking out all kinds of money for forced
 recalls. Its not even in the same league as my Passat. again, just my 2
 cents

 69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
 72 350SL   108,000 Miles
 2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
 1999 Mazda Miata


 -Original Message-
 From: John W. Reames III [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Wed, 8 Mar 2006 05:11:46 -0500 (EST)
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] MB vs. Sonata


 On Tue, 7 Mar 2006, BillR wrote:
  I only meant to say that the new Hyundai reached and cruised at 80 with
  relative ease.

 Okay, so a new Hyundai will reach 80 with relative ease... how about for
 fairness we compare to a newer MB diesel, or in the alternative, compare
 an older MB to an older Hyundai. (BTW, I had an older excel as a first
 car, it needed a rebuilt engine when I got it, and it loved head gaskets
 when exposed to extensive highway driving.  When it downshifted while
 going downhill and barely mustering 20, I started looking for a cliff...

 (after about 20Kmi it started blowing between #3 and #4)
 -j.



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[MBZ] OT: electronic weapons screening devices

2006-03-09 Thread Christopher McCann
electronic  weapons screening  devices are permanently in place at each 
entrance to the  building
  
  What is an electronic  weapons screening  device? Other than a metal 
detector (which detects all metal objects), I can only imagine an x-ray type 
machine.
  
  Noit trying to start a long gun thread, just wondering and I BET someone here 
knows...prolly Mitch.
  
  Thanks,
  
  CM
  
  

Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook
-1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

-
 Yahoo! Mail
 Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments.
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anybody used autofrost?

wilton strickland wrote:

 'Ordered case of 12  12 oz. cans yesterday @ $250 from ATC Specialists,
 www.refrigerantsales.com
 30 lb tnks also avail. @ $560.
 Substitute stuff avail, too.
 
 Wilton
 
 
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  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
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Re: [MBZ] HOLY CRAP

2006-03-09 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

I will look tomorrow on my day off.

tom savage wrote:


Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


Its listed the same as the dozens of others I have sold.  Dont need a 
hollanders, I have the epc.



Gotcha.  How about an axle?  ;)

Tom

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 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
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Re: [MBZ] Cladding

2006-03-09 Thread RELNGSON
Question - as I mentioned, I spilled some fuel - can I flush it off with
water?  I'm sure it's on the bottom cover - I'd like toget it off of it.
Will that cause any problems?.

How about garden hose water?

Question #2 - the body material below the beltline - about the lower 3rd of
the body - what material is that?  It's not as shiney as the upper part and
*way* less magnetic.  In's only very mildly magnetic while the upper is
*very* magnetic.  Anyway - curious about the material - aluminum alloy?
something else?  Should it be cared for with the same kind of stuff? (waxes,
cleaners, etc)

The cladding, being plastic, is not all that ferrous. It's painted with a 
slightly dull paint with it's own color code. Polish and wax it like the rest 
of 
the car.

RLE


Re: [MBZ] Question and comment

2006-03-09 Thread Rich Thomas

Pour it in and you will smell like a mobile popcorn popper!

I ran about 30% veggie oil back when #2 was $3.50, car ran smoother, no 
problems.  Some say straight vegoil can cause problems but some mix 
probably won't.


--R

BillR wrote:


For you folks into alternative fuels - never tried it, but have a quart of
slightly used peanut oil I don't want to just dump.  IIRC it would be fine
to run it through a coffee filter and dump it in with 10 gal of Diesel.  Any
risks?

There is an R500 and a CLS500 wandering the roads in our neighborhood [but
closer to the river...].  I always think I am coming up on a Chrysler at
first glance.  Is there that much crossover designing?  Kind of like the
R500, though the CLS500 does seem an odd beast on casual drive-by
inspection.
BillR
Jacksonville FL   
1981 300SD  'EM'  272k 




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Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-09 Thread Brian Chase
But would it be worth doing all the crack? Seriously though, jesting aside: 
One of the things that I was most surprised about when I began to 
investigate an older Mercedes was how affordable they were. Not having had 
any specific interest in them in the past, I always assumed that even an old 
one (as in 80s) would be way way out of the range of reasonable (like the 
range you gave for the showroom cond. one). And an even older one would be 
getting into true classic status and thus would be even further out of 
range.


So basically one that is in the lower $2k range is one that, generally 
speaking, has not been maintained and the seller therefore knows it has 
problems?


I see all the time through the list, Mercedes diesels for that sort of price 
(and that's about what mine cost) and the listers often tout picking them 
up. Guess what I have been missing all along is that it is understood that 
if you buy one at this price range, you will be looking - almost for certain 
- at several repairs.


I have read things today on the list that I did not see in the six months or 
longer leading up to the purchase of my 240D. But in fairness, it is a 
Mercedes enthusiast list (with a very large do-it-yourself contingent). What 
should I have expected? And also in fairness, I don't think that I ever 
specifically asked the question, do you guys think that I ought to buy one 
of these autos?


All that said, I still do admire this type of vehicle and think that it is 
one of the few that - since I have to drive - I want to drive. I do enjoy it 
and look forward to a happy life with it.


Next order of business: replace the starter. It did it's nothing trick 
just now.


Brian 83 240D

Marshall wrote:

One that's quite well maintained, may well be worth
$2000-5000 and one that's in close to showroom condition with less than
75kmi on it can sell for $10+k and MAY even be worth that.

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Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-09 Thread Tom Scordato

Brian said
when I complain about
it becoming a money pit, that there is nothing magic about these cars, 
they

wear out and break too


Yes Brian they do and if you are racking up 40 to 50K a year on them it 
reaches a real point of diminishing returns.  I think I may minimize my loss 
on this, keep my low mileage 240D for another 200K (it has only 77K on it) 
and be happy


Brian I guess a 30 year car is like a 100 year house.  One side says it is a 
labor of love the other says it is a money pit.  One thing for sure they 
both need alot of tlc and cash.



Regards Tom
- Original Message - 
From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 5:00 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads


You'll probably find more helpful posts than this, but I can tell you that 
I
just had the engine replaced in a 240D. Engine cost me 900 and the 
complete

RR job done by an indy - not me - cost 800 (plus a couple unexpected
expenses). The engine I got usually sells for 1100.

Was it worth it to us? Yes, but as I discover more potentially broken or
breaking things on the car, I begin to question it. I wanted one of these
Mercedes diesels and then I became convinced by reading this list (and got
the general impression that these cars are about as wonderful as tits and
beer) but I'm getting the general impression lately, when I complain about
it becoming a money pit, that there is nothing magic about these cars, 
they

wear out and break too, it's just that if properly cared for, the diesel
engines can last quite a long time.

Wish you the best with your quest.

Brian
83 240D

On 3/8/06, Tom Scordato [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


A few questions for the group please

1.  Can a 1977 123 chassis take/accept an 617.9xx non turbo engine with
out
major modifications from the years 1978-1980 to last non turbo year?

2.  What are the estimated hours to pull out existing 617.9xx engine,
remove
things such as alternators, refer compressors, ect. and then put a used
motor into the car al the while attaching the ancillary stuff I just said
and install the new engine.  These would be the hours by a professional
mechanic.

3.  I assume, new tranny hoses, new lube oil hoses ect. while I am at it.

4.  If you could share any experience you have.  Is there a link for 
doing

this job?

I have located some used engines that have been compression tested and 
are

in the 100K miles to 150K mile ranges, some which have been sitting for
some
time.

I am at a cross roads on the path of deciding if the car is worth it.  I
do
not have the scope of supply to do the job myself where I am located in
life right now.

Thanks in advance Tom Scordato



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Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-09 Thread Tom Scordato

Marshall said

If you can do it yourself or get a really cut rate, you
can sometimes restore a car to service, but usually you are better off
finding a replacement car that meets your needs

Marshall you are right and I believe/Tom

- Original Message - 
From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 4:58 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads



Tom Scordato wrote:

I have located some used engines that have been compression tested and 
are
in the 100K miles to 150K mile ranges, some which have been sitting for 
some

time.

I am at a cross roads on the path of deciding if the car is worth it.  I 
do

not have the scope of supply to do the job myself where I am located in
life right now.

Thanks in advance Tom Scordato


Mercedes made a few changes every year and there certainly MIGHT be
changes that would make slipping an '80-81 engine into a '77 chassis a
challenge (but I'm almost sure it can be done).

I would guess that 8 hours MIGHT do it if the mechanic were VERY
experienced AND had done the job several times, but there are a LOT of
variables that could increase the time by a lot. Unless the the car is
in WAY, WAY above average condition I wouldn't suggest it with a nearly
30 year old (or even a 20 year old) car. It has NOT been economically
advantageous for me to pay someone a proper fee to do such jobs (I've
done it anyway). If you can do it yourself or get a really cut rate, you
can sometimes restore a car to service, but usually you are better off
finding a replacement car that meets your needs.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
turbo 237kmi

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Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon

2006-03-09 Thread Jim Cathey
Out shopping I picked up some light bulbs to finish today's job, and 
while

I was at it I did a gross test of the 0-60 time.  (One-one thousand,
two-one thousand...)  Roughly 25 seconds, which is in the ballpark for
these.  Having putted around on errands in this thing I must say that
except for the sluggish acceleration it's a fairly pleasant little
ride.  Cold-blooded starting, though.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] W126 Sunroof

2006-03-09 Thread Peter Frederick
Provided the sunroof can still be opened at least part way, lift angles 
will take at least a couple hours (nearly four for me the first time).


Rear rubber can easily be done on jack stands, usually not too hard.  
May need to use the bolt to pull the rubber into the subframe on the 
front mounts.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-09 Thread Tom Scordato

Brian said

All that said, I still do admire this type of vehicle and think that it is
one of the few that - since I have to drive - I want to drive. I do enjoy it
and look forward to a happy life with it.

As you should and will.  Like I told my family who gives me grief that I do 
not or will not drive a rock climber:


I will drive a Mercedes Diesel until I die, so get used to it.  For me 
Brian I to bought a 185K 300D diesel which I did not have records on.  But 
guess what I put 100K miles on it, had a lot of fun, worked on it, developed 
a love for a car I really enjoy driving.  Luckily I bought a 1979 240D with 
low miles and I can start all over again!


Thanks for your input and enjoy changing your starter out.  I know on my 
300D I had to remove the transmission dip stick tube but other that not too 
bad of a job.  Kind of a reach around to get at the Allen bolts if I recall. 
Small stubby angle ratchet helps.


Tom Scordato































- Original Message - 
From: Brian Chase [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 8:02 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads


But would it be worth doing all the crack? Seriously though, jesting 
aside:

One of the things that I was most surprised about when I began to
investigate an older Mercedes was how affordable they were. Not having had
any specific interest in them in the past, I always assumed that even an 
old

one (as in 80s) would be way way out of the range of reasonable (like the
range you gave for the showroom cond. one). And an even older one would be
getting into true classic status and thus would be even further out of
range.

So basically one that is in the lower $2k range is one that, generally
speaking, has not been maintained and the seller therefore knows it has
problems?

I see all the time through the list, Mercedes diesels for that sort of 
price

(and that's about what mine cost) and the listers often tout picking them
up. Guess what I have been missing all along is that it is understood that
if you buy one at this price range, you will be looking - almost for 
certain

- at several repairs.

I have read things today on the list that I did not see in the six months 
or

longer leading up to the purchase of my 240D. But in fairness, it is a
Mercedes enthusiast list (with a very large do-it-yourself contingent). 
What

should I have expected? And also in fairness, I don't think that I ever
specifically asked the question, do you guys think that I ought to buy one
of these autos?

All that said, I still do admire this type of vehicle and think that it is
one of the few that - since I have to drive - I want to drive. I do enjoy 
it

and look forward to a happy life with it.

Next order of business: replace the starter. It did it's nothing trick
just now.

Brian 83 240D

Marshall wrote:

One that's quite well maintained, may well be worth
$2000-5000 and one that's in close to showroom condition with less than
75kmi on it can sell for $10+k and MAY even be worth that.

_
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Re: [MBZ] W126 Sunroof

2006-03-09 Thread Jim Cathey

I think Diff mount may be easy for even an old fellow, how are the


Should be.


rear sub frame mounts, floor jack and jack stands of do you really
need a lift and heavy tools?


I did it on a 107 with nothing special.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] OT: Look, Ma! No mast!

2006-03-09 Thread Chuck Landenberger

Hey,

Now we just need to adapt it for use when we're driving our Benzes  
downwind..   Rapid withdrawal and deployment absolutely needed
Lt. Don  Can we do this without a mast and spinnaker  
pole  And how would we jibe?All in jest


Take care,

Chuck...
On Mar 8, 2006, at 12:44 PM, Dave M. wrote:


This is too cool. Reminds me of Kevin Costner's little trick in
'Waterworld'. I wonder how it would work on a 240D?

http://www.bookofjoe.com/2005/09/skysail_the_kit.html

;-)


--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)

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Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-09 Thread Jim Cathey

There are good Mercedes and bad ones. It really depends on the prior
maintenance. One thing is for sure once a car reaches a critical 
threshold

of broken stuff it is junk.


That threshold varies depending on what is wrong, and your DIY
abilities and interests.  But even a junk car, such as the Frankenheap,
can be good transportation.


There is nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes...


... IF you try to make it into what it is not.

So long as the paint is good, it isn't rusty and the interior is
in decent shape, and the engine isn't toast these cars can be
brought back, and often for surprisingly little.  It's those
former items that are stunningly expensive to put right.  Even
the engine needn't be expensive IF you have a source of cheap
engines, and IF you DIY.

I am into that 240D for about $129 in repairs, and more than 40
hours of labor.  (Way more, if I were really counting.)  It is
shaping up to be a nice little car, but it is limited by being
a slug, and by the scrape on the side.  But it is rust-free, the
paint shines up, and the interior is pretty good.  Just horribly
lacking in competent maintenance recently, and in TLC.

just had the engine replaced in a 240D. Engine cost me 900 and the 
complete

RR job done by an indy - not me - cost 800 (plus a couple unexpected


Or for me, assuming I waited for a U-Pull to cruise by, it would be
something like $200.  Quite a range, only you can tell where you are
in the continuum and what your threshold of pain is.  It'll cost you,
one way or another.  Money vs time...

Today, I have time.  A year ago, I had money.  (Didn't spend it,
though.  I guess I was in training for this year!)

the general impression that these cars are about as wonderful as tits 
and
beer) but I'm getting the general impression lately, when I complain 
about
it becoming a money pit, that there is nothing magic about these cars, 
they
wear out and break too, it's just that if properly cared for, the 
diesel

engines can last quite a long time.


They _are_ about as wonderful as TB.  But to quote any number of 
people,

If it's got tits or tires it's going to give you trouble.  It's a car,
get used to it!  It's not just that it has a long-lasting engine, the
general fit  finish and engineering of the cars is very good.  One 
that's

in good shape is a joy to drive, and its smile factor as general
transportation beats anything that's not exotic, IMHO.

I think they hold up much better than about anything else, over the
span of decades.  And they're easy to work on, and things tend to
stay fixed if you do it right.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-09 Thread Zoltan Finks
Thanks Tom. You are fortunate to have that 240 with those low miles. Mine,
at 121k when purchased, seemed to be a great thing - just a baby - someone
said.  And it certainly would seem that your 300 was a good experience too.

Actually I have already RR'd the starter and it was very simple. The only
problem, in fact, was physically extracting the thing from the engine
compartment. The first time I did it I struggled a good while but got it.
The second time I failed to get it lifted out, even though I rotated it like
I did before. Fortunately, the engine was shot and it was no problem to just
go ahead and yank off a radiator hose to gain clearance. No AT dipstick tube
to worry about for me.

The only other problem with the starter RR will be telling wife that it
needs it. Heck it'll get her broken in for when I have to say that we should
get the suspension checked out. (on this vehicle that was mostly my idea and
was supposed to be such a good thing for us to do)

One way that I like to look at it is that one can either make car payments
like 90% of the population does, OR drive something older with more
character that will probably need periodic repairs. But compare these bills
with car payments that are guaranteed to be coming in the mail. Another
benefit of driving something older and more unique is that you are not
likely to see half a dozen other drivers each day driving exactly what you
have. In fact, if you do run into someone who is driving what you have, it
is an occasion to smile and wave.

Brian
83 240D

On 3/8/06, Tom Scordato [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Brian said

 All that said, I still do admire this type of vehicle and think that it
 is
 one of the few that - since I have to drive - I want to drive. I do enjoy
 it
 and look forward to a happy life with it.

 As you should and will.  Like I told my family who gives me grief that I
 do
 not or will not drive a rock climber:

 I will drive a Mercedes Diesel until I die, so get used to it.  For me
 Brian I to bought a 185K 300D diesel which I did not have records on.  But
 guess what I put 100K miles on it, had a lot of fun, worked on it,
 developed
 a love for a car I really enjoy driving.  Luckily I bought a 1979 240D
 with
 low miles and I can start all over again!

 Thanks for your input and enjoy changing your starter out.  I know on my
 300D I had to remove the transmission dip stick tube but other that not
 too
 bad of a job.  Kind of a reach around to get at the Allen bolts if I
 recall.
 Small stubby angle ratchet helps.

 Tom Scordato































 - Original Message -
 From: Brian Chase [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 8:02 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads


  But would it be worth doing all the crack? Seriously though, jesting
  aside:
  One of the things that I was most surprised about when I began to
  investigate an older Mercedes was how affordable they were. Not having
 had
  any specific interest in them in the past, I always assumed that even an
  old
  one (as in 80s) would be way way out of the range of reasonable (like
 the
  range you gave for the showroom cond. one). And an even older one would
 be
  getting into true classic status and thus would be even further out of
  range.
 
  So basically one that is in the lower $2k range is one that, generally
  speaking, has not been maintained and the seller therefore knows it has
  problems?
 
  I see all the time through the list, Mercedes diesels for that sort of
  price
  (and that's about what mine cost) and the listers often tout picking
 them
  up. Guess what I have been missing all along is that it is understood
 that
  if you buy one at this price range, you will be looking - almost for
  certain
  - at several repairs.
 
  I have read things today on the list that I did not see in the six
 months
  or
  longer leading up to the purchase of my 240D. But in fairness, it is a
  Mercedes enthusiast list (with a very large do-it-yourself contingent).
  What
  should I have expected? And also in fairness, I don't think that I ever
  specifically asked the question, do you guys think that I ought to buy
 one
  of these autos?
 
  All that said, I still do admire this type of vehicle and think that it
 is
  one of the few that - since I have to drive - I want to drive. I do
 enjoy
  it
  and look forward to a happy life with it.
 
  Next order of business: replace the starter. It did it's nothing trick
  just now.
 
  Brian 83 240D
 
  Marshall wrote:
 
  One that's quite well maintained, may well be worth
  $2000-5000 and one that's in close to showroom condition with less than
  75kmi on it can sell for $10+k and MAY even be worth that.
 
  _
  FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar - get it now!
  http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
 
 
 



 

Re: [MBZ] MB vs. Sonata

2006-03-09 Thread Loren Faeth
yes, my point was really the clutter and a hard drive stuffed to the 
gills.   Funny thing though,  the folks that have left a 2-3 yr old windows 
machine for a fast new mac never seem to be as vocal about how much faster 
it is.  And I know there have been people switching that way too.


At 01:16 PM 3/8/2006, you wrote:

Loren,

Sometimes a really old Mac can run circles around your newer PC.  I
snagged a Mac Plus for $20 and loaded it with excel.  Then I ran the
same spreadsheet on my then new PII.  The Plus was faster in all
computations.


On Wednesday, March 8, 2006, at 06:55 AM, Loren Faeth wrote:

 Comparing a 30 year old auto design to a new one is analogous to the
 people
 who would condemn all Macs because they bought a new pc and it was way
 faster than their 6 or 7 year old mac with all kinds of junk on it and
 an
 overstuffed hard drive.


--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Look, Ma! No mast!

2006-03-09 Thread LT Don
The tac is the difficult part to master while going down the Interstate.

On 3/8/06, Chuck Landenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hey,

 Now we just need to adapt it for use when we're driving our Benzes
 downwind..   Rapid withdrawal and deployment absolutely needed
 Lt. Don  Can we do this without a mast and spinnaker
 pole  And how would we jibe?All in jest

 Take care,

 Chuck...
 On Mar 8, 2006, at 12:44 PM, Dave M. wrote:

  This is too cool. Reminds me of Kevin Costner's little trick in
  'Waterworld'. I wonder how it would work on a 240D?
 
  http://www.bookofjoe.com/2005/09/skysail_the_kit.html
 
  ;-)
 
 
  --
  Dave M.
  Boise, ID
  1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
  1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)
 
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--
There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies.
-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-09 Thread Marshall Booth

Brian Chase wrote:



So basically one that is in the lower $2k range is one that, generally 
speaking, has not been maintained and the seller therefore knows it has 
problems?


You seem to imagine that the prices being asked and given actually 
correlate with the car's condition. Sometimes they do, but often cars 
sell for MUCH more or less than logic would suggest. Who's to say that 
the seller knows anything about the value of the car to anyone but 
him/herself?


You need to be able to reliably determine the condition of the car and 
then pay no more than it's worth TO YOU. Then you're in charge. If you 
don't have the skill and knowledge to do that, the risk is very great.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-09 Thread Zoltan Finks
 Your new acqusition sounds a lot like mine - the paint that shines up
(though the blemishes up close are depressing) the good interior, the no
rust, even the scrape on the side.

Your summary of WHY these autos are so good is useful. That's the type of
pertinent answer I was looking for - as opposed to Mercedes' are great,
don't you know that?

Brian
83 240D

Jim wrote:

 There is nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes...

 ... IF you try to make it into what it is not.

 So long as the paint is good, it isn't rusty and the interior is
 in decent shape, and the engine isn't toast these cars can be
 brought back, and often for surprisingly little.  It's those
 former items that are stunningly expensive to put right.  Even
 the engine needn't be expensive IF you have a source of cheap
 engines, and IF you DIY.



  the general impression that these cars are about as wonderful as tits
  and
  beer) but I'm getting the general impression lately, when I complain
  about
  it becoming a money pit, that there is nothing magic about these cars,
  they
  wear out and break too, it's just that if properly cared for, the
  diesel
  engines can last quite a long time.

 They _are_ about as wonderful as TB.  But to quote any number of
 people,
 If it's got tits or tires it's going to give you trouble.  It's a car,
 get used to it!  It's not just that it has a long-lasting engine, the
 general fit  finish and engineering of the cars is very good.  One
 that's
 in good shape is a joy to drive, and its smile factor as general
 transportation beats anything that's not exotic, IMHO.

 I think they hold up much better than about anything else, over the
 span of decades.  And they're easy to work on, and things tend to
 stay fixed if you do it right.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] W124 8 Hole wheels

2006-03-09 Thread OK Don
In the first message of this thread, you quoted $159.95 each - after-market?
Is this last quote for MB original wheels at $235.75 each?

On 3/8/06, Rusty Cullens [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Yes, $235.75 each.


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go



Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-09 Thread Loren Faeth
As Herr Doktor says is true.  I would like to point out that it is a lot 
cheaper to risk making a mistake with a kaleb car or a $2500 car or even a 
$5000 car than to make a mistake with a collectable car that sells in the 
30k to 500k range or more.


I have made a couple of mistakes with $1000 cars, but it didn't kill me and 
I am not crying over it.  I figure it is all tuition we pay for the 
education.


Loren

At 08:24 PM 3/8/2006, you wrote:

Brian Chase wrote:


 So basically one that is in the lower $2k range is one that, generally
 speaking, has not been maintained and the seller therefore knows it has
 problems?

You seem to imagine that the prices being asked and given actually
correlate with the car's condition. Sometimes they do, but often cars
sell for MUCH more or less than logic would suggest. Who's to say that
the seller knows anything about the value of the car to anyone but
him/herself?

You need to be able to reliably determine the condition of the car and
then pay no more than it's worth TO YOU. Then you're in charge. If you
don't have the skill and knowledge to do that, the risk is very great.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
turbo 237kmi

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Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-09 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Tom, I like and agree with your philosophy-I will always drive a MB
diesel for the rest of my life-I have two sitting in the driveway right
now.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 129K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Scordato
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 8:32 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads


Brian said

All that said, I still do admire this type of vehicle and think that it
is one of the few that - since I have to drive - I want to drive. I do
enjoy it and look forward to a happy life with it.

As you should and will.  Like I told my family who gives me grief that I
do 
not or will not drive a rock climber:

I will drive a Mercedes Diesel until I die, so get used to it.  For me 
Brian I to bought a 185K 300D diesel which I did not have records on.
But 
guess what I put 100K miles on it, had a lot of fun, worked on it,
developed 
a love for a car I really enjoy driving.  Luckily I bought a 1979 240D
with 
low miles and I can start all over again!

Thanks for your input and enjoy changing your starter out.  I know on my

300D I had to remove the transmission dip stick tube but other that not
too 
bad of a job.  Kind of a reach around to get at the Allen bolts if I
recall. 
Small stubby angle ratchet helps.

Tom Scordato































- Original Message - 
From: Brian Chase [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 8:02 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads


 But would it be worth doing all the crack? Seriously though, jesting
 aside:
 One of the things that I was most surprised about when I began to
 investigate an older Mercedes was how affordable they were. Not having
had
 any specific interest in them in the past, I always assumed that even
an 
 old
 one (as in 80s) would be way way out of the range of reasonable (like
the
 range you gave for the showroom cond. one). And an even older one
would be
 getting into true classic status and thus would be even further out
of
 range.

 So basically one that is in the lower $2k range is one that, generally

 speaking, has not been maintained and the seller therefore knows it 
 has problems?

 I see all the time through the list, Mercedes diesels for that sort of
 price
 (and that's about what mine cost) and the listers often tout picking
them
 up. Guess what I have been missing all along is that it is understood
that
 if you buy one at this price range, you will be looking - almost for 
 certain
 - at several repairs.

 I have read things today on the list that I did not see in the six 
 months
 or
 longer leading up to the purchase of my 240D. But in fairness, it is a
 Mercedes enthusiast list (with a very large do-it-yourself
contingent). 
 What
 should I have expected? And also in fairness, I don't think that I
ever
 specifically asked the question, do you guys think that I ought to buy
one
 of these autos?

 All that said, I still do admire this type of vehicle and think that 
 it is one of the few that - since I have to drive - I want to drive. I

 do enjoy it and look forward to a happy life with it.

 Next order of business: replace the starter. It did it's nothing 
 trick just now.

 Brian 83 240D

 Marshall wrote:

 One that's quite well maintained, may well be worth $2000-5000 and one

 that's in close to showroom condition with less than 75kmi on it can 
 sell for $10+k and MAY even be worth that.

 _
 FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar - get it now! 
 http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/









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Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon

2006-03-09 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Jim
Good. Drive it like you stole it and put some purge or other diesel
additive in and  push it hard. (Sorry Marshall, about eh additive part.
My 240D is nothing like it was 4 years ago when I got it. Now borders on
responsive to the throttle on the highway.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 129K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 8:28 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon


Out shopping I picked up some light bulbs to finish today's job, and 
while
I was at it I did a gross test of the 0-60 time.  (One-one thousand,
two-one thousand...)  Roughly 25 seconds, which is in the ballpark for
these.  Having putted around on errands in this thing I must say that
except for the sluggish acceleration it's a fairly pleasant little ride.
Cold-blooded starting, though.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Get studs.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 129K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 9:51 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions


Limited slip in my opinion is not terribly useful on ice anyway as the
two drive wheels will just hook up and spin the car in circles. My Dad
had a Chevy Tracker with a limited slip rear and in ice and snow you had
to be in 4wd because of its frightening propensity to fishtail. I never
did try it with a bunch of weight in the rear end, in retrospect that
seems like a good idea.
   
  At any rate, my 240D even with snow tires will spin the tires on ice.
Its ICE for crying out loud...
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2006 19:56:10 -0600
From: Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
reply-type=original

I think I asked this question quite a while ago and received minimal  
response and some snickering (over the thought of a 240D spinning its  
tires).

My response is still the same. Why would one need limited slip on a car 
that 
will not spin a tire on ice??
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT 



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Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Marshall.
You're right. Goes through snow like a plow. Reminds me of my 64 Chevy
II. I did get it hung up once when I ran a 12 plow ridge and had to
shovel to bring it down to earth.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 129K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Marshall Booth
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 9:13 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions


Dwight E. Giles, Jr wrote:
 Agreed. I don't have weight in the trunk but have studs on all four 
 corners-walks through 4 or 5  of snow  no problems and no slip on the

 take off. Stops well with the studs too.
 

With studded snows on all four corners there is almost NOTHING except 
12+ of unplowed, unpacked snow (the car will simply sit on top with the
wheels dangling) that will stop MOST Mercedes. They will stop and steer 
pretty well too. While I've never found an anti-slip rear to be 
essential under bad conditions (I've never been stranded because I 
didn't have it), I'm told that the handling of '90s model 124s/140s with

ASR is somewhat amazing on snow or ice!

Marshall
-- 
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5

turbo 237kmi

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Re: [MBZ] W124 8 Hole wheels

2006-03-09 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Ouch 

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 129K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of OK Don
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 9:32 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 8 Hole wheels


In the first message of this thread, you quoted $159.95 each -
after-market? Is this last quote for MB original wheels at $235.75 each?

On 3/8/06, Rusty Cullens [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Yes, $235.75 each.


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go

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Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-09 Thread Zoltan Finks
Of course not.

Let me try to phrase things better: What DOES explain the great variance in
asking price of these vehicles? Let's remove the variable of folks being on
crack for the moment. I mean, if some people ask 8 or 10 thousand for their
123, what's stopping everybody from doing so? There is something there that
doesn't seem congruous.

When my wife and I started investigating buying a diesel Mercedes, we were
struck by this phenomenon. Just look at AutoTrader.com and you'll see that
at the top of the list are the attrociously priced ones, then you find the
reasonably priced ones, then the cheapos at the bottom. But the divide
between the attrocious ones and the reasonable ones shows that there are two
types of sellers out there.  THIS is the situation that I have wondered
about. I've taken to assuming that those asking such high prices are playing
off the name badge Mercedes. And those who ask more reasonable prices are
being more realistic. If it wasn't for the down-to-earth info. on this list,
I would've believed the attrocious sellers - afterall it's a Mercedes!

But I was surprised to hear, from the Doktor, that some of those $10k prices
might actually be warranted.

Hope this clears up what I was getting at when I said that some sellers ask
much lower prices, and the only explanation that I could come up with is
that there are such obvious problems with the vehicle that they know
they can't realistically ask too much.

Brian

Marshall wrote:

You seem to imagine that the prices being asked and given actually
correlate with the car's condition.

On 3/8/06, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Brian Chase wrote:

 
  So basically one that is in the lower $2k range is one that, generally
  speaking, has not been maintained and the seller therefore knows it has
  problems?

 You seem to imagine that the prices being asked and given actually
 correlate with the car's condition. Sometimes they do, but often cars
 sell for MUCH more or less than logic would suggest. Who's to say that
 the seller knows anything about the value of the car to anyone but
 him/herself?

 You need to be able to reliably determine the condition of the car and
 then pay no more than it's worth TO YOU. Then you're in charge. If you
 don't have the skill and knowledge to do that, the risk is very great.

 Marshall
 --
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
 turbo 237kmi

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Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Zoltan Finks
I'm not too encouraged by what happened a few minutes ago. I spun one wheel
while trying to back up onto the concrete pad I park on. Not ice, not snow,
just rain water. It is a slight incline. I couldn't tell you which tire was
spinning. One may or may not have been on the concrete as opposed to the
asphalt beside it. There is very good tread remaining on the Michelins, and
they are the type with a channel down the center for rain. But, I do
recognize that the tires are likely old and they sat in the AZ sun for who
knows for how long. I know with certainty that had there been H2O in any
other state present I would not have been able to park.

Brian
83 240D


Re: [MBZ] MB vs. Sonata

2006-03-09 Thread John W. Reames III
On Wed, 8 Mar 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Hyundai's are something that WAS crap in the early 90's.  I drove a friend's
 Excel that had about 12 inches of play in the steering wheel.  Scared me to
 death to drive that thing.  But from what I've read, the Hyundai's have come
 a LONG way in the last 5 or so years.  They're now nearing in to Honda and
 Toyota territory, but with prices around $5K less.
 Of course to most of the people on this list Hondas and Toyotas are crap
 too.

Check the fine print on the warranty. Again, this is early 90's but the 
factory powertrain warranty did not cover items like the transmission 
control computer ($400+ in parts only!), or the rear main oil seal (we 
won't go into that) 

but OTOH, a coworker drives a little accent from Littlestown, PA to 
Reston, VA daily without too much problem.

Me, I just drive the Benzes because of safety and the klatta :) 
(and because I could test drive it before plunking cash down!) 
-j.






Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-09 Thread Harry Watkins
I've bought five MB diesels in the last four years with less total money
than I paid for a used Camry.  I paid too much for two of them, got very
good deals on two others and one was just about right.

The SDL that I paid much too much for has costs me the most and is still not
in good shape.  The best deal has costs very little, so what I paid did not
match what I got.

BTW, the 240D manual can hang in there in any traffic, bugs die on the
windshield all the time.  I was pleasantly surprised at that.

So far the SDLs are my choice, these are awesome cars and I'll keep both of
them.  I know, I don't need this many cars and I have a reduction plan in
mind.

Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans
85 TD

 As Herr Doktor says is true.  I would like to point out that it is a lot
 cheaper to risk making a mistake with a kaleb car or a $2500 car or even a
 $5000 car than to make a mistake with a collectable car that sells in
the
 30k to 500k range or more.

 I have made a couple of mistakes with $1000 cars, but it didn't kill me
and
 I am not crying over it.  I figure it is all tuition we pay for the
 education.

 Loren





Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-09 Thread John Berryman


On Mar 8, 2006, at 9:05 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote:

Actually I have already RR'd the starter and it was very simple.  
The only

problem, in fact, was physically extracting the thing from the engine
compartment. The first time I did it I struggled a good while but  
got it.
The second time I failed to get it lifted out, even though I  
rotated it like
I did before. Fortunately, the engine was shot and it was no  
problem to just
go ahead and yank off a radiator hose to gain clearance. No AT  
dipstick tube

to worry about for me.



	They come out the bottom, moving the steering linkage to the right  
position gives it enough room. It has to be flipped and spun but they  
come out easily.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] W126 Sunroof

2006-03-09 Thread John W. Reames III
On Wed, 8 Mar 2006, Peter Frederick wrote:
 Rear rubber can easily be done on jack stands, usually not too hard.  
 May need to use the bolt to pull the rubber into the subframe on the 
 front mounts.
Actually you need allthread nuts and washers to push the old one out, 
IIRC.

The new one slides right in with a good helping of CRC silicone spray.

-j.






Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-09 Thread John Berryman


On Mar 8, 2006, at 9:59 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote:

Hope this clears up what I was getting at when I said that some  
sellers ask
much lower prices, and the only explanation that I could come up  
with is

that there are such obvious problems with the vehicle that they know
they can't realistically ask too much.

Brian



	Realistically most people really are not aware of the actual value  
of their vehicles. I tend to get great deals but I have been involved  
with cars all my life and a professional mechanic for more than 30  
years. People give me cars that get put to use or go to parts.
	Case in point: my new 1986 190D 2.5 Euro. I paid $1200 for an  
original owner car with 62,000mi that needed a paint job and some  
inexpensive stuff. I have $2600 into it and it is near perfect.
	You really have to know what you're doing when you buy and repair  
the car or you stand to have a costly bad experience.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread LT Don
You might want to find a set of Goodyear Regatta 2s while they are still
available. They have yet to let me down in rain, snow or ice (in
west-central Iowa, snow/ice country).  They have been discontinued but are
still available from stock. In fact, I ordered 4 today (13, really rare)
for my VW.

On 3/8/06, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I'm not too encouraged by what happened a few minutes ago. I spun one
 wheel
 while trying to back up onto the concrete pad I park on. Not ice, not
 snow,
 just rain water. It is a slight incline. I couldn't tell you which tire
 was
 spinning. One may or may not have been on the concrete as opposed to the
 asphalt beside it. There is very good tread remaining on the Michelins,
 and
 they are the type with a channel down the center for rain. But, I do
 recognize that the tires are likely old and they sat in the AZ sun for who
 knows for how long. I know with certainty that had there been H2O in any
 other state present I would not have been able to park.

 Brian
 83 240D
 ___
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--
There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies.
-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


[MBZ] 1987 Mercedes-Benz : 190-Series 2.5DIESEL

2006-03-09 Thread Craig McCluskey

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=4619547721

One day left. Current bid $1525.00


Craig



Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread John Berryman


On Mar 8, 2006, at 10:09 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote:

I'm not too encouraged by what happened a few minutes ago. I spun  
one wheel
while trying to back up onto the concrete pad I park on. Not ice,  
not snow,
just rain water. It is a slight incline. I couldn't tell you which  
tire was
spinning. One may or may not have been on the concrete as opposed  
to the
asphalt beside it. There is very good tread remaining on the  
Michelins, and

they are the type with a channel down the center for rain. But, I do
recognize that the tires are likely old and they sat in the AZ sun  
for who
knows for how long. I know with certainty that had there been H2O  
in any

other state present I would not have been able to park.

Brian
83 240D



	Sounds like you are down on these cars, maybe you acted hastily and  
made a mistake. You won't be the first or last to have done so. The  
up side is, if you get the car into good shape, it should give you  
many trouble-free years of driving.
	 I'm sure that there are many on this list who have way more $$$ in  
their cars than they are worth. I see a lot of folks willing to throw  
parts at their problems until they get it right rather than properly  
diagnose problems. Its tricky if you don't know your shit.

Then again, they are not for everybody.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread LT Don
Uh ... yea, guilty as charged. And I don't regret a penny of it.

On 3/8/06, John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



 I'm sure that there are many on this list who have way more $$$ in
 their cars than they are worth.



--
There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies.
-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Jeff Zedic
Ahhh yes but I also remember reading that those Aquatred or whatever 
tires are absolutely shit when trying to reverse!


That was the first thing I heard about them as a problem...


Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD



Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread John Berryman


On Mar 8, 2006, at 10:43 PM, LT Don wrote:


Uh ... yea, guilty as charged. And I don't regret a penny of it.



	You should have no regrets. Somehow or another you got your moneys  
worth. Even if all you get out of it was an education in what not to  
do again. Hobbies usually cost money. You could spend it on much  
worse things for sure.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



[MBZ] speaking of wheels

2006-03-09 Thread Lee Levitt
Speaking of wheels, I have a set of 4 E300 wheels on ebay, along 
with a 5th matching wheel, some US DOT and euro lamps, a set of 
new Bilstein shocks/struts and more.

Here's the link to the wheels:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemrd=1,1item=8044506673sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT

Thanks!

Lee


Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Jim Cathey

Then again, they [Benz] are not for everybody.


My brother, the mechanic, hates them.  Of course, he's rarely
worked on them and never driven one.  He's into GM, or Toyota.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-09 Thread Jim Cathey
in good shape.  The best deal has costs very little, so what I paid 
did not

match what I got.


The best deal is not usually the best car, in any but perhaps the
purely monetary sense.  My best deal is probably the Frankenheap.
But it's not a datemobile, to say the least!

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-09 Thread Jim Cathey
But I was surprised to hear, from the Doktor, that some of those $10k 
prices

might actually be warranted.


Not really if you stop to think about, with maybe a parts
catalog for reference.  If you love such a car, and want it
to be in near-new condition you can buy one for $10k (say),
or spend $12k-20k (if not more) making one yourself.  Auto
restorers see this all the time.

The balancing act is to determine what you can be happy with,
matching your finances, abilities, and interests against what
is out there, and then buy it.  What _I'm_ looking for is
radically different than the no-the-ashtray-is-dirty brigade.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread LT Don
John:

I am 53 years old. I expect to still be driving this same 240D when the
State of Iowa makes me surrender my license in three or four decades. (I
drive about 6000 miles a year.) It will be a rusty SOB by then, but I think
the engine will still be cranking out that 68 horsepower and burning a few
quarts of Mobil 1 Spaceship/Spacestation (by then) every so often.

On 3/8/06, John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 On Mar 8, 2006, at 10:43 PM, LT Don wrote:

  Uh ... yea, guilty as charged. And I don't regret a penny of it.


 You should have no regrets. Somehow or another you got your moneys
 worth. Even if all you get out of it was an education in what not to
 do again. Hobbies usually cost money. You could spend it on much
 worse things for sure.

 Johnny B.
 I Mac Therefore I am

 ___
 http://www.striplin.net
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net




--
There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies.
-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Michelins are not exactly a good measure of traction ,especially in 
water or worse. The things last forever, but their hard compounds are 
generally pretty scary on slippery surfaces. This would be even worse if 
they were dried out. Michelins are bad enough on cars,, on big trucks 
those things used to scare me to death.


--Robert

Zoltan Finks wrote:

I'm not too encouraged by what happened a few minutes ago. I spun one wheel
while trying to back up onto the concrete pad I park on. Not ice, not snow,
just rain water. It is a slight incline. I couldn't tell you which tire was
spinning. One may or may not have been on the concrete as opposed to the
asphalt beside it. There is very good tread remaining on the Michelins, and
they are the type with a channel down the center for rain. But, I do
recognize that the tires are likely old and they sat in the AZ sun for who
knows for how long. I know with certainty that had there been H2O in any
other state present I would not have been able to park.

Brian
83 240D
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Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Jeff Zedic

GM???

How can anyone possibly defend the most cynical mediocre company in the 
world???


[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Jeff Zedic
Toronto



Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Zoltan Finks
I know I may sound that way. But I'd refer you to another post or two that
I've made tonight while I should be working. I stated that I really do like
these autos and they are one of the few types that I want to drive. If I
sound negative on them don't be offended, guys.

I think I am gradually waking up to the reality of actual ownership after
1.5 yrs. of wanting, then owning but not being able to drive it because of
junk engine. The talk on the list coupled with my desire to get one had me
feeling that ownership would be mostly bliss.

On a positive note, a brief drive tonight to the store for grocs. was quite
pleasing (after commuting in the Saab for the last week and half). The
Mercedes is such a soothing, solid, pleasing experience, in contrast to the
more hectic, harsh, zippy feeling from the other car. Of course, zippy can
be very good too.

Brian
83 240D

John wrote:

Sounds like you are down on these cars, maybe you acted hastily and
made a mistake.


On 3/8/06, John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 On Mar 8, 2006, at 10:09 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote:

  I'm not too encouraged by what happened a few minutes ago. I spun
  one wheel
  while trying to back up onto the concrete pad I park on. Not ice,
  not snow,
  just rain water. It is a slight incline. I couldn't tell you which
  tire was
  spinning. One may or may not have been on the concrete as opposed
  to the
  asphalt beside it. There is very good tread remaining on the
  Michelins, and
  they are the type with a channel down the center for rain. But, I do
  recognize that the tires are likely old and they sat in the AZ sun
  for who
  knows for how long. I know with certainty that had there been H2O
  in any
  other state present I would not have been able to park.
 
  Brian
  83 240D


Sounds like you are down on these cars, maybe you acted hastily and
 made a mistake. You won't be the first or last to have done so. The
 up side is, if you get the car into good shape, it should give you
 many trouble-free years of driving.
 I'm sure that there are many on this list who have way more $$$ in
 their cars than they are worth. I see a lot of folks willing to throw
 parts at their problems until they get it right rather than properly
 diagnose problems. Its tricky if you don't know your shit.
Then again, they are not for everybody.

 Johnny B.
 I Mac Therefore I am

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 http://www.striplin.net
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Loren Faeth
I like sticky all weather tires.  I generally look for T rated A A or AB 
tires that have fairly soft compounds.  They may not go 100K, but i won't 
end up in the ditch or worse either.  When i got my 200D back in 72, i 
bought a set of dunlops to go with it.  These tires had a mini dog-biscuit 
tread pattern, were sticky, but wore adequately (40K range).  I've not seen 
anything else as good in all conditions since.  I could plow snow with that 
car on those tires.  Well, the blizzacks are good in winter, but they are 
not a year round tire.  I am currently trying out contis.  When i could get 
German Contis, that was all I'd buy.  The jury is still out on these US 
(general) contis.


Michelins, in my experience rarely wear out, but slip belts and otherwise 
go to pot.  They are overpriced.  They are french.  I don't want 
them.  Finding good tires at a reasonable price in the US is a 
problem.  The blizzacks and Nokis are overpriced too.  Bad years are 
overpriced an usually slip belts, but when I bought the vw it was on 
expensive goodyears, and they did actually last until they wore out!  I was 
impressed with them, but they were probably $400 back then (1987)  I could 
buy Contis for $30 each at the time. I have NEVER had a German Conti come 
apart or slip a belt.  I ran them on the ford van (6 Ply rated) the MB, the 
valiant, the escort, the Datsun and never had any trouble.  I even had 
frenchy Kleber tires on the valiant when we sold it.  (cause there were no 
Contis available in that size at the time)  They seemed to do ok and had a 
grippy tread pattern and decent compound.


I had expensive Toyos on the Escort, cause Lex Brodie said they were good, 
and you don't have a lot of choices in Honolulu.  I was not happy with 
them.  They came apart after a year or two.


I have been running some Remingtons on my SDLs but they don't grip in snow 
and ice.  I have been running blizzacks in the winter, but this winter is 
about the end for them as a set of 4.  I think I can get one more winter 
out of 2 of them.


As with all tires, your mileage may vary, and it depends on the car and 
driver.  I am a Dieseler.  I rarely go over 80 and don't drive the SCCA 
circuit. But I drive 30-60K a year.  Medium grade, all season tires are 
suited for this application


I won't buy hard high mileage tires.  They will wreck your car and can kill 
you and other people.


My mantra:  Good, sticky tires are cheap insurance.   $0.02

Loren
Lotsa MBs now
A company Dog Caravan I drive sometimes.

At 10:26 PM 3/8/2006, you wrote:

Michelins are not exactly a good measure of traction ,especially in
water or worse. The things last forever, but their hard compounds are
generally pretty scary on slippery surfaces. This would be even worse if
they were dried out. Michelins are bad enough on cars,, on big trucks
those things used to scare me to death.

--Robert

Zoltan Finks wrote:
 I'm not too encouraged by what happened a few minutes ago. I spun one wheel
 while trying to back up onto the concrete pad I park on. Not ice, not snow,
 just rain water. It is a slight incline. I couldn't tell you which tire was
 spinning. One may or may not have been on the concrete as opposed to the
 asphalt beside it. There is very good tread remaining on the Michelins, and
 they are the type with a channel down the center for rain. But, I do
 recognize that the tires are likely old and they sat in the AZ sun for who
 knows for how long. I know with certainty that had there been H2O in any
 other state present I would not have been able to park.

 Brian
 83 240D
 ___
 http://www.striplin.net
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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Re: [MBZ] head gasket OM 617

2006-03-09 Thread Karl Wittnebel
1985 300TD has high pressure in the radiator tank even when cold. Runs low on 
coolant, but only about twice a year, no visible leak. Mileage has decreased 
from 26 - 21mpg, no detectable loss of power. Performed coolant chemical test 
for leak, which was negative. 
   
  Is this the head gasket? If so, anyone have a rebuilt head they'd like to get 
rid of? Not in a big rush to fix it, but would like my 26mpg back!
   
  Thanks,
  Karl




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Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2006 22:12:22 -0800 (PST)
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I have these left over from a older car that was damaged...the springs were 
only on the car 6 months...
   
  Also have brake pads for W116 (rear) and multiple front brake calipers for 
W116
   
  Mike in San Diego


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One trick I've sometimes used for getting moving on slick surfaces, 
without a limited slip, is to set the parking brake a few notches, so it 
just starts to drag.  The added drag tends to stop the wheel with poor 
traction from spinning quite so much, diverting more power to the wheel 
that has better traction. Sort of a poor man's traction control.  
Obviously this only works on RWD cars and requires a working 

Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Zoltan Finks
Great info. I am very interested in what you wrote about the assigning of
fault in the case of crashing into or with someone in snow or ice. I have
never heard that fault may be assigned based on the type of tires one has.
Does this mean that someone with a rear drive car would get blamed over
someone with a front drive car? And would someone with four wheel drive win
in court over someone with front drive?

In other words, does this law (is it really a law, or is it an insurance
company guideline, or what is it?) apply to anything other than tires?

Thanks
Brian
83 240D

Robert wrote:

and in most cases, if you get tangled up with another car in the
snow, and the other guy doesn't have real snow tires ( all seasons don't
count ) it generally automatically becomes the other guys fault ( it's
called not having proper safety equipment for conditions ).


Re: [MBZ] MB vs. Sonata

2006-03-09 Thread David Brodbeck

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Aren't the new Hyundai's being offered with 10 yr warranties?  Not sure what 
the mileage limit is - but it's probably too low.
  


I think it's 10 years/100,000 miles, on the powertrain.

If GM (or Mercedes!) would offer such a warranty, it'd go a long way 
towards reassuring people about their reliability.  Of course, they'd 
probably also lose a lot of money on it.




Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Zoltan Finks
A lot of talk about studded tires. I've never used them so let me ask: Do
they wear out very quickly on dry pavement? Or can you use them throughout
the winter - even if conditions are dry - and if so, how many seasons do
they last? I would think that the studs, if used in dry conditions at all
would go bye bye quickly.

Also: I thought I had heard that studded tires were illegal some places?

Brian
83 240D

On 3/8/06, Dwight E. Giles, Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Get studs.

 Dwight Giles, Jr
 1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
 1990 300D 2.5t, 129K miles
 Wickford, RI


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
 Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 9:51 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions


 Limited slip in my opinion is not terribly useful on ice anyway as the
 two drive wheels will just hook up and spin the car in circles. My Dad
 had a Chevy Tracker with a limited slip rear and in ice and snow you had
 to be in 4wd because of its frightening propensity to fishtail. I never
 did try it with a bunch of weight in the rear end, in retrospect that
 seems like a good idea.

 At any rate, my 240D even with snow tires will spin the tires on ice.
 Its ICE for crying out loud...

 -Curt

 Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2006 19:56:10 -0600
 From: Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions
 To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
 reply-type=original

 I think I asked this question quite a while ago and received minimal
 response and some snickering (over the thought of a 240D spinning its
 tires).

 My response is still the same. Why would one need limited slip on a car
 that
 will not spin a tire on ice??
 Rick Knoble
 '85 300 CD
 '87 190 DT



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Re: [MBZ] weenies

2006-03-09 Thread David Brodbeck

Levi Smith wrote:

RWD, forget it.  The second you leave
dry pavement, or encounter a little bit of snow or ice they are useless.
You either have one wheel spinning like mad and going nowhere, or with a
locker you have two wheels spinning and heading for the ditch and you're
still not going forwards...
  


You need more weight in the back.  Seriously.  I have yet to drive a RWD 
car that didn't go from useless to making serious progress once I added 
a hundred pounds or so of sand to the trunk.




Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Zoltan Finks
My dad likes to say: If you love a car, you love it. Doesn't have to be any
logic to it.

Brian

On 3/8/06, John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 On Mar 8, 2006, at 10:43 PM, LT Don wrote:

  Uh ... yea, guilty as charged. And I don't regret a penny of it.


You should have no regrets. Somehow or another you got your moneys
 worth. Even if all you get out of it was an education in what not to
 do again. Hobbies usually cost money. You could spend it on much
 worse things for sure.

 Johnny B.
 I Mac Therefore I am

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Re: [MBZ] weenies

2006-03-09 Thread Zoltan Finks
Not at all doubting your experience, but I can say that I had 400 lbs. of
sand bags in the back of my Dakota pickup and it made little if any
difference besides making for a more comfy ride. That truck was very very
bad on traction. I wonder though, if the tires were just really badly
designed? They were new (I had them installed) but they were cheap. Lots of
tire talk on the Traction thread right now.

Brian
83 240D


On 3/9/06, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Levi Smith wrote:
  RWD, forget it.  The second you leave
  dry pavement, or encounter a little bit of snow or ice they are useless.
  You either have one wheel spinning like mad and going nowhere, or with a
  locker you have two wheels spinning and heading for the ditch and you're
  still not going forwards...
 

 You need more weight in the back.  Seriously.  I have yet to drive a RWD
 car that didn't go from useless to making serious progress once I added
 a hundred pounds or so of sand to the trunk.

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Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Jim Cathey
A lot of talk about studded tires. I've never used them so let me ask: 
Do
they wear out very quickly on dry pavement? Or can you use them 
throughout
the winter - even if conditions are dry - and if so, how many seasons 
do
they last? I would think that the studs, if used in dry conditions at 
all

would go bye bye quickly.


They chew the roads more than the roads chew back.  That said, I'm in
favor of them, depending on how/where you drive them.  We have an icy
hill up to our place.  If it weren't for that last 1/2 mile, we'd have
little actual need of studs.  They last for several years.  I noticed
that many of the studs on the SDL are pushed in.  They tend to burrow
into the tire with age and eventually start causing a lot of flats!

Also: I thought I had heard that studded tires were illegal some 
places?


Some States, and at times of the year.  WA and ID both publish the
studs-allowed dates widely.

-- Jim




[MBZ] buying a used Mercedes diesel (was Re: 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads)

2006-03-09 Thread kevin kraly

You need to be able to reliably determine the condition of the car and
then pay no more than it's worth TO YOU. Then you're in charge. If you
don't have the skill and knowledge to do that, the risk is very great.

Marshall,

I couldn't have said it better!  I got a parts car in this 220D, but I knew 
that this outcome was a possibility coming into the deal and a risk that I 
was willing to take.  For $100, I thought that I could end up with a runner, 
and if it was busted, I could pass it on to the next person who would buy it 
who needed a 220D parts car.
My next foray into the world of cheap and not so cheap old Mercedes moves 
on.  The first possibility is a 1972 220 GULP GASSER GULP that I could get 
for a mere $250 that needs an alternator or perhaps a battery.


http://portland.craigslist.org/car/139841661.html

The next is a 1981 300D for $750 OBO.

http://portland.craigslist.org/car/140106251.html

It decided not to start one day, the words of the owner.  It has a rebuilt 
tranny with only 2K miles on it, and the odo shows 159K miles.  I know that 
a diesel that won't start could be caused by internal engine problems and 
end up like my 220D, nothing more than a parts donor, or it could be caused 
by something as simple as a fuel delivery problem like a clogged strainer, 
clogged fuel filters, valves out of adjustment or even a reversed vacuum 
line on the shutoff valve.  Both the 220 gasser and this 300D  sound like 
they have potential, and I'll keep everyone posted on how they REALLY are in 
person.


Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
1973 220D parting out 





Re: [MBZ] speaking of wheels

2006-03-09 Thread John W. Reames III
I guess they aren't any good for a w210?
-j.





Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-09 Thread Tom Scordato

Dwight said

Tom, I like and agree with your philosophy-I will always drive a MB
diesel for the rest of my life-I have two sitting in the driveway right
now

Dwight do tell about the 1990.  maybe it is time for me to trade up from the 
123 chassis.  The vacuum door locks give me real grief on all those. I do by 
the way have a 1979 240D too.  I call it the Flip Maker  As I drive up and 
accelerate (0-60 forever) up the highway on ramps I get folks flipping me 
the bird all the time, my pedals is to the metal.  People are very full of 
hate and discontent in this the freest country in the world.  Why is that 
so?


It is now my daily driver and I love it, 77K now and growing by 50K a year. 
thanks Dwight


Tom Scordato












- Original Message - 
From: Dwight E. Giles, Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 9:43 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads



Tom, I like and agree with your philosophy-I will always drive a MB
diesel for the rest of my life-I have two sitting in the driveway right
now.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 129K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Scordato
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 8:32 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads


Brian said

All that said, I still do admire this type of vehicle and think that it
is one of the few that - since I have to drive - I want to drive. I do
enjoy it and look forward to a happy life with it.

As you should and will.  Like I told my family who gives me grief that I
do
not or will not drive a rock climber:

I will drive a Mercedes Diesel until I die, so get used to it.  For me
Brian I to bought a 185K 300D diesel which I did not have records on.
But
guess what I put 100K miles on it, had a lot of fun, worked on it,
developed
a love for a car I really enjoy driving.  Luckily I bought a 1979 240D
with
low miles and I can start all over again!

Thanks for your input and enjoy changing your starter out.  I know on my

300D I had to remove the transmission dip stick tube but other that not
too
bad of a job.  Kind of a reach around to get at the Allen bolts if I
recall.
Small stubby angle ratchet helps.

Tom Scordato































- Original Message - 
From: Brian Chase [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 8:02 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads



But would it be worth doing all the crack? Seriously though, jesting
aside:
One of the things that I was most surprised about when I began to
investigate an older Mercedes was how affordable they were. Not having

had

any specific interest in them in the past, I always assumed that even

an

old
one (as in 80s) would be way way out of the range of reasonable (like

the

range you gave for the showroom cond. one). And an even older one

would be

getting into true classic status and thus would be even further out

of

range.

So basically one that is in the lower $2k range is one that, generally



speaking, has not been maintained and the seller therefore knows it
has problems?

I see all the time through the list, Mercedes diesels for that sort of
price
(and that's about what mine cost) and the listers often tout picking

them

up. Guess what I have been missing all along is that it is understood

that

if you buy one at this price range, you will be looking - almost for
certain
- at several repairs.

I have read things today on the list that I did not see in the six
months
or
longer leading up to the purchase of my 240D. But in fairness, it is a
Mercedes enthusiast list (with a very large do-it-yourself

contingent).

What
should I have expected? And also in fairness, I don't think that I

ever

specifically asked the question, do you guys think that I ought to buy

one

of these autos?

All that said, I still do admire this type of vehicle and think that
it is one of the few that - since I have to drive - I want to drive. I



do enjoy it and look forward to a happy life with it.

Next order of business: replace the starter. It did it's nothing
trick just now.

Brian 83 240D

Marshall wrote:

One that's quite well maintained, may well be worth $2000-5000 and one



that's in close to showroom condition with less than 75kmi on it can
sell for $10+k and MAY even be worth that.

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To 

Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-09 Thread Tom Scordato

Johnny B said

You really have to know what you're doing when you buy and repair
the car or you stand to have a costly bad experience

True and it helps more than can be valued to have a group list like this to 
help you.  I personally value the opinions and experience of this group more 
than words can say.  I have often blown off advise of some professionals 
due to the information I have gotten form this list, thanks.


Regards Tom Scordato

- Original Message - 
From: John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 10:30 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads




On Mar 8, 2006, at 9:59 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote:


Hope this clears up what I was getting at when I said that some
sellers ask
much lower prices, and the only explanation that I could come up
with is
that there are such obvious problems with the vehicle that they know
they can't realistically ask too much.

Brian



Realistically most people really are not aware of the actual value
of their vehicles. I tend to get great deals but I have been involved
with cars all my life and a professional mechanic for more than 30
years. People give me cars that get put to use or go to parts.
Case in point: my new 1986 190D 2.5 Euro. I paid $1200 for an
original owner car with 62,000mi that needed a paint job and some
inexpensive stuff. I have $2600 into it and it is near perfect.
You really have to know what you're doing when you buy and repair
the car or you stand to have a costly bad experience.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

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Re: [MBZ] weenies

2006-03-09 Thread Levi Smith
I agree completely.  My wife had something like a 93' Ford Ranger.  It had
studded tires, and a Tractor tire (maybe 300lbs?) and a big-ass tree stump
(maybe another 100 or 200lbs?), I almost think there might have been a few
cement blocks or something else as well.  It sucked.
She was scared to death to drive that thing up the hilly slick roads to our
house (if she could do it at all), and once you got into any depth of snow
it always had that nice one wheel spinning and there was no way of
unstucking it besides yanking it onto some pavement with something else.
She was the first to get a Subaru about 7 years ago and loves it.  With
half-worn all seasons she's not worried, but knows it can slip.  As soon as
I put the Blizzaks on it she has not a care in the world.  (Using some
common sense of course, which is rare in the world today)

The way I look at it, for *most* vehicles even if you had 400lbs of weight
in the back, you *might* have it back to about 50/50 weight distribution.
That's still half your weight that will never do anything but try to get you
stuck.  And in most vehicles as soon as you get the vehicle on a less than
flat surface, or one wheel on a slippery surface, you'll only have one of
those wheels that has no traction spinning...

That's NOT to say they can't get around in most situations.  I have just yet
to find a RWD that compares to FWD (for general traction.  Yes if you put
two good tires on the front of a FWD and leave crap on the back you'll find
out what REAL oversteer is like), and neither one of those is ANYTHING
compared to AWD...

Levi (:

On 3/9/06, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Not at all doubting your experience, but I can say that I had 400 lbs. of
 sand bags in the back of my Dakota pickup and it made little if any
 difference besides making for a more comfy ride. That truck was very very
 bad on traction. I wonder though, if the tires were just really badly
 designed? They were new (I had them installed) but they were cheap. Lots
 of
 tire talk on the Traction thread right now.

 Brian
 83 240D


 On 3/9/06, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Levi Smith wrote:
   RWD, forget it.  The second you leave
   dry pavement, or encounter a little bit of snow or ice they are
 useless.
   You either have one wheel spinning like mad and going nowhere, or with
 a
   locker you have two wheels spinning and heading for the ditch and
 you're
   still not going forwards...
  
 
  You need more weight in the back.  Seriously.  I have yet to drive a RWD
  car that didn't go from useless to making serious progress once I added
  a hundred pounds or so of sand to the trunk.
 


[MBZ] 300D 2.5t

2006-03-09 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Tom,
 Well, comparing he 240D and the 124 300D is like my British friends
say, chalk and cheese. All of the  obvious flaws of the 240D, esp. the
automatic are pretty well known.  I drive my 240D 300-500 miles each
week.  It is noisy, primitive in some ways, but solid and reliable. And
I love the way it looks. And I like the simplicity of manual windows,
set, etc. 
The 90  on the other hand is ugly-IMHO compared to the classic lines of
the 123. It is undoubtedly the nicest car I ever drove-(I have never
driven an SD or SDL). it's refined, fast-twice the horsepower of the
240D, feels more 'modern' quieter, smoother, turbo is great and mileage
is much better than the 240D. EPA rated it 37 on the window sticker,
Nitske says 33 mpg. I haven't really checked it as I have been diving it
hard to 'tune up' the nailing. As was pointed  out here earlier, the 124
handles better on curves. The 90 also has vacuum door locks.  I think
the best argument for the 124 300D is the 2.5t engine-smooth, quick, and
economical. 
 I really had planned to get a 300CD to eventually replace the 240D-but
fellow lister John Peterson had bought this 300D and we did some work on
it-he was ready to put it on e-bay and I decided to buy it. No regrets,
but I still mostly drive the 240, at least for now. Plan to take the
300D on a road trip to NC this spring.
Anyway HTH.


Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 129K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Scordato
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 6:33 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads


Dwight said

Tom, I like and agree with your philosophy-I will always drive a MB
diesel for the rest of my life-I have two sitting in the driveway right
now

Dwight do tell about the 1990.  maybe it is time for me to trade up from
the 
123 chassis.  The vacuum door locks give me real grief on all those. I
do by 
the way have a 1979 240D too.  I call it the Flip Maker  As I drive up
and 
accelerate (0-60 forever) up the highway on ramps I get folks flipping
me 
the bird all the time, my pedals is to the metal.  People are very full
of 
hate and discontent in this the freest country in the world.  Why is
that 
so?

It is now my daily driver and I love it, 77K now and growing by 50K a
year. 
thanks Dwight

Tom Scordato












- Original Message - 
From: Dwight E. Giles, Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 9:43 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads


 Tom, I like and agree with your philosophy-I will always drive a MB 
 diesel for the rest of my life-I have two sitting in the driveway 
 right now.

 Dwight Giles, Jr
 1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
 1990 300D 2.5t, 129K miles
 Wickford, RI


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Scordato
 Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 8:32 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads


 Brian said

 All that said, I still do admire this type of vehicle and think that 
 it is one of the few that - since I have to drive - I want to drive. I

 do enjoy it and look forward to a happy life with it.

 As you should and will.  Like I told my family who gives me grief that

 I do not or will not drive a rock climber:

 I will drive a Mercedes Diesel until I die, so get used to it.  For 
 me Brian I to bought a 185K 300D diesel which I did not have records 
 on. But guess what I put 100K miles on it, had a lot of fun, worked on

 it, developed
 a love for a car I really enjoy driving.  Luckily I bought a 1979 240D
 with
 low miles and I can start all over again!

 Thanks for your input and enjoy changing your starter out.  I know on 
 my

 300D I had to remove the transmission dip stick tube but other that 
 not too bad of a job.  Kind of a reach around to get at the Allen 
 bolts if I recall.
 Small stubby angle ratchet helps.

 Tom Scordato































 - Original Message -
 From: Brian Chase [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 8:02 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads


 But would it be worth doing all the crack? Seriously though, jesting
 aside:
 One of the things that I was most surprised about when I began to 
 investigate an older Mercedes was how affordable they were. Not 
 having
 had
 any specific interest in them in the past, I always assumed that even
 an
 old
 one (as in 80s) would be way way out of the range of reasonable (like
 the
 range you gave for the showroom cond. one). And an even older one
 would be
 getting into true classic status and thus would be even further out
 of
 range.

 So basically one that is in the lower $2k range is one that, 
 generally

 speaking, has not been 

Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Brian,
Yes studs are illegal some places now and elsewhere legal only for a
season-here it is  11/15-4/15. They have many advantages and some
drawbacks. I used them years ago on rear wheel drive-my Chevy II. Then
as I gradually switched over to FWD and AWED, I went over to all season
radials.  My 240D came with studded tires-I have driven them 4
winters-about 20k miles. The problem now is that the studs are worn
down, but there is a lot of  aggressive tread left -so I feel as if I am
throwing away good tires.  The main annoyance is the twice a year
switchover-I wish I had another set of wheels. I don't know the cost
factor of studs. 
One of the major advantages is stopping on ice or hard packed snow. Next
winter I will use the blizzaks that someone gave me-hopefully for two
seasons. Then I will probably go back to studs. Like LT. Don, I hope to
be driving my 240D when the state of RI comes to take my license away
for old age. 
Whether you have studs or not, I think with RWD in winter climes, four
aggressive snow tires are worth the investment and the hassle of change
overs. IMHO

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 129K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zoltan Finks
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 1:38 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions


A lot of talk about studded tires. I've never used them so let me ask:
Do they wear out very quickly on dry pavement? Or can you use them
throughout the winter - even if conditions are dry - and if so, how many
seasons do they last? I would think that the studs, if used in dry
conditions at all would go bye bye quickly.

Also: I thought I had heard that studded tires were illegal some places?

Brian
83 240D

On 3/8/06, Dwight E. Giles, Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Get studs.

 Dwight Giles, Jr
 1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
 1990 300D 2.5t, 129K miles
 Wickford, RI


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
 Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 9:51 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions


 Limited slip in my opinion is not terribly useful on ice anyway as the

 two drive wheels will just hook up and spin the car in circles. My Dad

 had a Chevy Tracker with a limited slip rear and in ice and snow you 
 had to be in 4wd because of its frightening propensity to fishtail. I 
 never did try it with a bunch of weight in the rear end, in retrospect

 that seems like a good idea.

 At any rate, my 240D even with snow tires will spin the tires on ice. 
 Its ICE for crying out loud...

 -Curt

 Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2006 19:56:10 -0600
 From: Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions
 To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1; 
 reply-type=original

 I think I asked this question quite a while ago and received minimal 
 response and some snickering (over the thought of a 240D spinning its

 tires).

 My response is still the same. Why would one need limited slip on a 
 car that will not spin a tire on ice??
 Rick Knoble
 '85 300 CD
 '87 190 DT



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Re: [MBZ] Cladding

2006-03-09 Thread l02turner

You wrote:[SNIP] Polish and wax it like the rest of
the car.

Thanks!

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 7:49 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cladding


Question - as I mentioned, I spilled some fuel - can I flush it off with
water? I'm sure it's on the bottom cover - I'd like toget it off of it.
Will that cause any problems?.

How about garden hose water?

Question #2 - the body material below the beltline - about the lower 3rd 
of

the body - what material is that? It's not as shiney as the upper part and
*way* less magnetic. In's only very mildly magnetic while the upper is
*very* magnetic. Anyway - curious about the material - aluminum alloy?
something else? Should it be cared for with the same kind of stuff? (waxes,
cleaners, etc)

The cladding, being plastic, is not all that ferrous. It's painted with a
slightly dull paint with it's own color code. Polish and wax it like the 
rest of

the car.

RLE
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Re: [MBZ] speaking of wheels

2006-03-09 Thread Lee Levitt
John writes:

 
 I guess they aren't any good for a w210?

John, I'd have to defer to others on the list. These wheels are 16 x 7 1/2,
with an ET41 offset. They fit the W124 series and the later 210 series.

Lee




Re: [MBZ] 300D 2.5t

2006-03-09 Thread Mike Canfield

Dwight,
 Have to agree with you about the 123 chasis..IN my eyes there was 
never a finer automobile made.  Maybe slow but the class and reliability way 
exceeds the need for speed.


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: Dwight E. Giles, Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 7:38 AM
Subject: [MBZ] 300D 2.5t



Tom,
Well, comparing he 240D and the 124 300D is like my British friends
say, chalk and cheese. All of the  obvious flaws of the 240D, esp. the
automatic are pretty well known.  I drive my 240D 300-500 miles each
week.  It is noisy, primitive in some ways, but solid and reliable. And
I love the way it looks. And I like the simplicity of manual windows,
set, etc.
The 90  on the other hand is ugly-IMHO compared to the classic lines of
the 123. It is undoubtedly the nicest car I ever drove-(I have never
driven an SD or SDL). it's refined, fast-twice the horsepower of the
240D, feels more 'modern' quieter, smoother, turbo is great and mileage
is much better than the 240D. EPA rated it 37 on the window sticker,
Nitske says 33 mpg. I haven't really checked it as I have been diving it
hard to 'tune up' the nailing. As was pointed  out here earlier, the 124
handles better on curves. The 90 also has vacuum door locks.  I think
the best argument for the 124 300D is the 2.5t engine-smooth, quick, and
economical.
I really had planned to get a 300CD to eventually replace the 240D-but
fellow lister John Peterson had bought this 300D and we did some work on
it-he was ready to put it on e-bay and I decided to buy it. No regrets,
but I still mostly drive the 240, at least for now. Plan to take the
300D on a road trip to NC this spring.
Anyway HTH.


Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 129K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Scordato
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 6:33 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads


Dwight said

Tom, I like and agree with your philosophy-I will always drive a MB
diesel for the rest of my life-I have two sitting in the driveway right
now

Dwight do tell about the 1990.  maybe it is time for me to trade up from
the
123 chassis.  The vacuum door locks give me real grief on all those. I
do by
the way have a 1979 240D too.  I call it the Flip Maker  As I drive up
and
accelerate (0-60 forever) up the highway on ramps I get folks flipping
me
the bird all the time, my pedals is to the metal.  People are very full
of
hate and discontent in this the freest country in the world.  Why is
that
so?

It is now my daily driver and I love it, 77K now and growing by 50K a
year.
thanks Dwight

Tom Scordato












- Original Message - 
From: Dwight E. Giles, Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 9:43 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads



Tom, I like and agree with your philosophy-I will always drive a MB
diesel for the rest of my life-I have two sitting in the driveway
right now.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 129K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Scordato
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 8:32 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads


Brian said

All that said, I still do admire this type of vehicle and think that
it is one of the few that - since I have to drive - I want to drive. I



do enjoy it and look forward to a happy life with it.

As you should and will.  Like I told my family who gives me grief that



I do not or will not drive a rock climber:

I will drive a Mercedes Diesel until I die, so get used to it.  For
me Brian I to bought a 185K 300D diesel which I did not have records
on. But guess what I put 100K miles on it, had a lot of fun, worked on



it, developed
a love for a car I really enjoy driving.  Luckily I bought a 1979 240D
with
low miles and I can start all over again!

Thanks for your input and enjoy changing your starter out.  I know on
my

300D I had to remove the transmission dip stick tube but other that
not too bad of a job.  Kind of a reach around to get at the Allen
bolts if I recall.
Small stubby angle ratchet helps.

Tom Scordato































- Original Message -
From: Brian Chase [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 8:02 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads



But would it be worth doing all the crack? Seriously though, jesting
aside:
One of the things that I was most surprised about when I began to
investigate an older Mercedes was how affordable they were. Not
having

had

any specific interest in them in the past, I always assumed that even

an

old
one 

Re: [MBZ] W124 8 Hole wheels

2006-03-09 Thread Rusty Cullens
The first quote was for aftermarket 8 hole wheels for the W124. The
second quote was Genuine MB 15 hole W124 wheels.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of OK Don
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 9:32 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 8 Hole wheels

In the first message of this thread, you quoted $159.95 each -
after-market?
Is this last quote for MB original wheels at $235.75 each?

On 3/8/06, Rusty Cullens [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Yes, $235.75 each.


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go

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Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-09 Thread Richard Hattaway
Tom,

I have swaped engines on a couple of occasions at the 240D level.  The
major issues you will run into will be the glow system and some issues
with which power steering pumps, pulleys, harmonic balancers, etc fit
what cars.  If you have A/C that can also be an issue.

What it amounts to is that there are a lot of little things that can be
handled in the amateur garage by a few beers and some friends.  In a
professional shop it becomes a big issue because all the small stuff
costs the same $$ as the big stuff per hour.

I would take a serious look at rebuilding the engine you have unless it
has a hole in the crankcase or has been significantly abused.. as in
run out of oil.  I rebuilt my last one, a 617.912, for a few hundred in
parts as opposed to replacing it.  I replaced all rings, one piston,
all lower bearings, all seals, gaskets.  I did not rebuild the head as
all the valve seats were flawless.  Time was probably 20 hours.  

One of the beauties of these engines is that they have sleeved
cylinders so you dont have to be concerned with boring.  Just replace
em.  Another great feature is that the crank journals are hardened to a
level unmatched in almost any other automotive realm.  My engine with
~450K measured at factory specs on the journals during rebuild, I used
standard inserts! 

Richard

--- Tom Scordato [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 A few questions for the group please
 
 1.  Can a 1977 123 chassis take/accept an 617.9xx non turbo engine
 with out 
 major modifications from the years 1978-1980 to last non turbo year?
 
 2.  What are the estimated hours to pull out existing 617.9xx engine,
 remove 
 things such as alternators, refer compressors, ect. and then put a
 used 
 motor into the car al the while attaching the ancillary stuff I just
 said 
 and install the new engine.  These would be the hours by a
 professional 
 mechanic.
 
 3.  I assume, new tranny hoses, new lube oil hoses ect. while I am at
 it.
 
 4.  If you could share any experience you have.  Is there a link for
 doing 
 this job?
 
 I have located some used engines that have been compression tested
 and are 
 in the 100K miles to 150K mile ranges, some which have been sitting
 for some 
 time.
 
 I am at a cross roads on the path of deciding if the car is worth it.
  I do 
 not have the scope of supply to do the job myself where I am
 located in 
 life right now.
 
 Thanks in advance Tom Scordato 
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Mike Canfield

Dwight said:

The problem now is that the studs are worn
down, but there is a lot of  aggressive tread left -so I feel as if I am
throwing away good tires.

Just because the points are gone off the studs doesn't mean they won't do 
the job.  When the tire flexes it will allow the edges of the stud to bite. 
Actually most studded tires get very poor traction on dry and/or wet roads 
until the studs are worn down some.  I'm sure the old Chevy II(My FAVORITE 
Chevy) would spin the studded tires quite easily until they were broken 
in.
 I have run Blizzaks on my 62 Buick Special wagon(yeah with the 215 
aluminum V8 and 3 on the tree) and they WORK GREAT!!!  So good in fact that 
you will want them on the front as well so you can steer when they dig in. 
Only complaints I had were the price and the fact that they wear very fast 
on the highway.  No need for studs at all with them though as the siping and 
soft compound do a very good job of gripping anything they can find.


My $.02, Mike 





Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Donald Snook
Johnny B. wrote:

 

   I'm sure that there are many on this list who have way more $$$
in  

their cars than they are worth. I see a lot of folks willing to throw  

parts at their problems until they get it right rather than properly  

diagnose problems.

 

 

I have a good example in my car - 1990 300SEL.  The previous owner
bought it for $10,500 in Early 2003. It only had 75,000 at the time.
Over the next two and half years he spent over $20,000 on the car fixing
everything and making the car perfect.  He intended to drive it forever.
Well his circumstances changed, he started a new business and needed a
large 4X4 SUV.   I bought this car (which he had over $3 in) for
$5400.  

 

Donald H. Snook

1990 300SEL



Re: [MBZ] speaking of wheels

2006-03-09 Thread Donald Snook
Lee L. wrote:

 

Speaking of wheels, I have a set of 4 E300 wheels on ebay . . .  

 

Anyone know if these will fit on my car.  1990 300SEL.  According to the
listing they are 16 x 7.5  41 et.   I have the original 15 hole wheels
which are 15 inch.  

 

 

Donald H. Snook

1990 300SEL 125K



Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Levi Smith
I'll second the Blizzaks.  I've yet to run anything that compares.  Though
I've heard the Nokian's are up there as well.

As for the studs, my uncle told me that a friend of his once had a set on
and proceeded to do a burnout on one of those grated bridges.  (do they even
make those anymore?)
Oops, no more studs...  (:

Levi

On 3/9/06, Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Dwight said:

 The problem now is that the studs are worn
 down, but there is a lot of  aggressive tread left -so I feel as if I am
 throwing away good tires.

 Just because the points are gone off the studs doesn't mean they won't do
 the job.  When the tire flexes it will allow the edges of the stud to
 bite.
 Actually most studded tires get very poor traction on dry and/or wet roads
 until the studs are worn down some.  I'm sure the old Chevy II(My FAVORITE
 Chevy) would spin the studded tires quite easily until they were broken
 in.
   I have run Blizzaks on my 62 Buick Special wagon(yeah with the 215
 aluminum V8 and 3 on the tree) and they WORK GREAT!!!  So good in fact
 that
 you will want them on the front as well so you can steer when they dig in.
 Only complaints I had were the price and the fact that they wear very fast
 on the highway.  No need for studs at all with them though as the siping
 and
 soft compound do a very good job of gripping anything they can find.

 My $.02, Mike




Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Jim Cathey

I'll second the Blizzaks.  I've yet to run anything that compares.


The Chicken Wagon came with a set of these on it.  No problems
getting around, but that car gets driven very little.


Though I've heard the Nokian's are up there as well.


I put studded Hakka 1's on the SDL and my wife's SL.  The SL's
set has migrated to the Frankenheap.  They are (or perhaps 'were',
they're like 5+ years old now) amazing.

But the most amazing winter feats have been in the truck,
on all-season semi-aggressive on/offroad tires, carrying
the camper.  400# in the bed?  How about 3000+#!  4wd too.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-09 Thread Jim Cathey
123 chassis.  The vacuum door locks give me real grief on all those. I 
do by


With some ingenuity, the electric-pump system of later cars 
(124/126/201)

could be fitted to your 123.  On the whole that system is a lot more
reliable.  It would be a labor of love, for a car that otherwise
pleased you quite well.  At the U-Pull, the stuff would run maybe
$50 or so for everything.  The rest would be minor fabrication and
running the wiring.

the way have a 1979 240D too.  I call it the Flip Maker  As I drive 
up and
accelerate (0-60 forever) up the highway on ramps I get folks flipping 
me

the bird all the time, my pedal is to the metal.


Bumper sticker: It _is_ floored!

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] buying a used Mercedes diesel (was Re: 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads)

2006-03-09 Thread Jim Cathey
was willing to take.  For $100, I thought that I could end up with a 
runner,
and if it was busted, I could pass it on to the next person who would 
buy it

who needed a 220D parts car.


Sounds like a fairly safe plan.

My next foray into the world of cheap and not so cheap old Mercedes 
moves
on.  The first possibility is a 1972 220 GULP GASSER GULP that I could 
get

for a mere $250 that needs an alternator or perhaps a battery.

http://portland.craigslist.org/car/139841661.html


He _paid_ $250, he _wants_ $400.


The next is a 1981 300D for $750 OBO.

http://portland.craigslist.org/car/140106251.html


Sounds like a better bet.  But I don't like the smell of gas.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Mike Canfield
Used to run the Nokians on a Subaru hatchback..That thing would go 
anywhere in the snow on and off the road.


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 9:08 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions



I'll second the Blizzaks.  I've yet to run anything that compares.  Though
I've heard the Nokian's are up there as well.

As for the studs, my uncle told me that a friend of his once had a set on
and proceeded to do a burnout on one of those grated bridges.  (do they 
even

make those anymore?)
Oops, no more studs...  (:

Levi

On 3/9/06, Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Dwight said:

The problem now is that the studs are worn
down, but there is a lot of  aggressive tread left -so I feel as if I am
throwing away good tires.

Just because the points are gone off the studs doesn't mean they won't do
the job.  When the tire flexes it will allow the edges of the stud to
bite.
Actually most studded tires get very poor traction on dry and/or wet 
roads
until the studs are worn down some.  I'm sure the old Chevy II(My 
FAVORITE

Chevy) would spin the studded tires quite easily until they were broken
in.
  I have run Blizzaks on my 62 Buick Special wagon(yeah with the 215
aluminum V8 and 3 on the tree) and they WORK GREAT!!!  So good in fact
that
you will want them on the front as well so you can steer when they dig 
in.
Only complaints I had were the price and the fact that they wear very 
fast

on the highway.  No need for studs at all with them though as the siping
and
soft compound do a very good job of gripping anything they can find.

My $.02, Mike



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Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Thanks Mike-well I may try the studs one more winter. I have 4 free
blizzaks as well. Need to find 3 more wheels so I don't have pay the
changeover.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 129K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Canfield
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 8:47 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions


Dwight said:

The problem now is that the studs are worn
down, but there is a lot of  aggressive tread left -so I feel as if I am
throwing away good tires.

Just because the points are gone off the studs doesn't mean they won't
do 
the job.  When the tire flexes it will allow the edges of the stud to
bite. 
Actually most studded tires get very poor traction on dry and/or wet
roads 
until the studs are worn down some.  I'm sure the old Chevy II(My
FAVORITE 
Chevy) would spin the studded tires quite easily until they were broken

in.
  I have run Blizzaks on my 62 Buick Special wagon(yeah with the 215 
aluminum V8 and 3 on the tree) and they WORK GREAT!!!  So good in fact
that 
you will want them on the front as well so you can steer when they dig
in. 
Only complaints I had were the price and the fact that they wear very
fast 
on the highway.  No need for studs at all with them though as the siping
and 
soft compound do a very good job of gripping anything they can find.

My $.02, Mike 


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Re: [MBZ] 1987 Mercedes-Benz : 190-Series 2.5DIESEL

2006-03-09 Thread Tom Hargrave
Probably one of the best Mercedes diesels build, but one year in the mix
took unique injectors. This might be the year. 


Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 9:34 PM
To: mercedes
Subject: [MBZ] 1987 Mercedes-Benz : 190-Series 2.5DIESEL


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=4619547721

One day left. Current bid $1525.00


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 1987 Mercedes-Benz : 190-Series 2.5DIESEL

2006-03-09 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
That's not a turbo is it?

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 129K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Hargrave
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 9:39 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1987 Mercedes-Benz : 190-Series 2.5DIESEL


Probably one of the best Mercedes diesels build, but one year in the mix
took unique injectors. This might be the year. 


T




[MBZ] Yet another tire question

2006-03-09 Thread John Robbins
Since the topic of the day seems to be tires and whatnot, and since mine 
are basically bald, I figured it would be a good time to ask. :)


I've got 185/70/R14 tires on there now, and was playing around and 
noticed that 205/60/R14 tires are almost the exact same diameter.  Will 
the extra width work with the stock bundt cake rims?  Or do I just need 
to suck it up and get 15 rims for a slightly lower profile sidewall?


One other thing I saw was that the owners manual on the W116 CD provides 
tire sizes for a 280SE and 450SEL.  The 450SEL has 6.5 wide rims (with 
stock size of 205/60/R14), but the 280SE has 6 wide rims (with 
185/70/R14).  Was wondering if anyone knows what the 300SD uses


Thanks!!!
John
'79 300SD




Re: [MBZ] 1987 Mercedes-Benz : 190-Series 2.5DIESEL

2006-03-09 Thread Tom Hargrave
I don't believe this one is, but I could be wrong - Mercedes did put a turbo
2.5 liter engine in the E class. 


Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 8:42 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1987 Mercedes-Benz : 190-Series 2.5DIESEL

That's not a turbo is it?

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 129K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Hargrave
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 9:39 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1987 Mercedes-Benz : 190-Series 2.5DIESEL


Probably one of the best Mercedes diesels build, but one year in the mix
took unique injectors. This might be the year. 


T


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[MBZ] Apple original Airport card

2006-03-09 Thread John Berryman


	Does anyone have an original Apple Airport card they are interested  
in selling or swapping for MB parts or whatever else? I see Airport  
Extreme cards all over but I can't use the Extreme card for my purposes.
	 My house was hit by lightning in August and damaged a lot of stuff.  
Among the items damaged is an Apple DVSE 500MgHz iMac.
	The iMac lost the ability to network via ethernet and 1 of 2  
FireWire ports. I also lost my hard wired router and replaced it with  
a Belkin wireless + 4 port router, as at the time that's the only one  
I could find. I never considered using it in wireless mode until now.
	I was either going to repair the old machine or give it to my buddy  
in Tn to replace an earlier tray-loading iMac that I gave him. He can  
only get to the internet via phone line.
	 I would really love to keep this machine active on my home network  
as it is zipped up a bit and give him the DV 400 that I intended to  
give him.
	I can repair it with a replacement logic board with IO board  
attached as a second choice but it would be much easier to just go  
wireless.
	If anyone has any alternatives and/or the items I'm looking for,  
please let me know.


Thanks, 
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] 1977 300D non turbo engine replacement Cross Roads

2006-03-09 Thread John Berryman


On Mar 8, 2006, at 11:03 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:


 My best deal is probably the Frankenheap.
But it's not a datemobile, to say the least!



	My best MB deal has to be The $100 Car 1979 300SD w/ 134,000mi. It  
really just needed to be cleaned up and driven after some adjustments  
and I had to put the GP wire connector back together on the relay end.
	It has gone over 50,000mi since we had it and I recently treated it  
to a new set of Bilsteins and tires. It is getting a new starter and  
a pair of rebuilt front calipers soon. Oh, I almost forgot, I need to  
replace/repair the radiator too.
	I will give my newest acquisition (86 190D Euro w/65,000mi) to my  
wife and drive the 116. Unless of course she decides that she prefers  
the 300SD.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] Yet another tire question

2006-03-09 Thread Chuck Landenberger

Hi John,

I've used several different size tires on my 300SD.  Stock is the  
185 HR 14.  I have tried 205/65/R14, 225/60/R14 (BFG R-1 RACE TIRES)  
and 205/70/R14 Yokohama Avid T4's (now on car) .
For the MBCA TOR Event at Virginia International Raceway last  
September, I used a 15 x7 wheels (off a 126) w/205/55/R15 Kuhmos,  
not really a race tire but a soft street tire compound.  Those are  
now in my garage and if anyone is interested in them, contact me  
offline, please.


Had no problems w/any of the various sizes.  The rolling  
circumferences were pretty much the same.  IIRC within 2%.


The only difference I noticed was an purely in appearance.  The 60  
profile does not fill the wheel opening, whereas the 70 profile does.


BTW, I got both the Yokes and the Kuhmos from Tire Rack and had them  
mounted locally.


Hope this helps.

Chuck
Phoenix AZ
1980 300SD
1986 190E 2.3 16 Valve...

On Mar 9, 2006, at 7:47 AM, John Robbins wrote:

Since the topic of the day seems to be tires and whatnot, and since  
mine

are basically bald, I figured it would be a good time to ask. :)

I've got 185/70/R14 tires on there now, and was playing around and
noticed that 205/60/R14 tires are almost the exact same diameter.   
Will
the extra width work with the stock bundt cake rims?  Or do I just  
need

to suck it up and get 15 rims for a slightly lower profile sidewall?

One other thing I saw was that the owners manual on the W116 CD  
provides
tire sizes for a 280SE and 450SEL.  The 450SEL has 6.5 wide rims  
(with

stock size of 205/60/R14), but the 280SE has 6 wide rims (with
185/70/R14).  Was wondering if anyone knows what the 300SD uses

Thanks!!!
John
'79 300SD


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Re: [MBZ] 1987 Mercedes-Benz : 190-Series 2.5DIESEL

2006-03-09 Thread Sunil Hari
i thought 87 was the one and only year they put a 2.5 turbo in the 190
series ...

On 3/9/06, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I don't believe this one is, but I could be wrong - Mercedes did put a
 turbo
 2.5 liter engine in the E class.


 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 256-656-1924
 www.kegkits.com

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Dwight E. Giles, Jr
 Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 8:42 AM
 To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1987 Mercedes-Benz : 190-Series 2.5DIESEL

 That's not a turbo is it?

 Dwight Giles, Jr
 1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
 1990 300D 2.5t, 129K miles
 Wickford, RI


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Hargrave
 Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 9:39 AM
 To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1987 Mercedes-Benz : 190-Series 2.5DIESEL


 Probably one of the best Mercedes diesels build, but one year in the mix
 took unique injectors. This might be the year.


 T


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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474


Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Dave M.
A couple of general comments on this thread:

1) Putting on two snow tires - meaning real snows, with the snowflake
on the mountain symbol (not M+S rated tires, which means NOTHING)...
is half useless. You need FOUR snow tires. You do expect to steer,
and/or stop, right? A set of snows usually last for many seasons. A
couple hundred bucks, spread out over a few years, is way cheaper
than wrecking your car, or getting stranded somewhere.

2) Anyone who thinks all season tires work great in snow or ice
either does not live in real ice or snow country, or has never driven
a car with four real snow tires (again, an M+S rating does not mean
snow tire).


(flame suit on)

Dave M.
(Four studded Kumhos KW-11's on the VW, studless Kumhos on the 300E)


 --
 Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2006 08:47:14 -0500
 From: Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions


 Dwight said:

 The problem now is that the studs are worn
 down, but there is a lot of  aggressive tread left -so I feel as if I am
 throwing away good tires.

 Just because the points are gone off the studs doesn't mean they won't do
 the job.  When the tire flexes it will allow the edges of the stud to bite.
 Actually most studded tires get very poor traction on dry and/or wet roads
 until the studs are worn down some.  I'm sure the old Chevy II(My FAVORITE
 Chevy) would spin the studded tires quite easily until they were broken
 in.

  I have run Blizzaks on my 62 Buick Special wagon(yeah with the 215
 aluminum V8 and 3 on the tree) and they WORK GREAT!!!  So good in fact that
 you will want them on the front as well so you can steer when they dig in.
 Only complaints I had were the price and the fact that they wear very fast
 on the highway.  No need for studs at all with them though as the siping and
 soft compound do a very good job of gripping anything they can find.

 My $.02, Mike



Re: [MBZ] Yet another tire question

2006-03-09 Thread John Robbins
Thanks for the excellent info Chuck!  Will be writing you an email about 
those 15x7 in just a moment :)What made you decided to go back to 
the bundt wheels? 


John
'79 300SD

PS: Noticed you got a 16V 190E... I imagine you've had some fun tossing 
that car around ;)



Chuck Landenberger wrote:


Hi John,

I've used several different size tires on my 300SD.  Stock is the  
185 HR 14.  I have tried 205/65/R14, 225/60/R14 (BFG R-1 RACE TIRES)  
and 205/70/R14 Yokohama Avid T4's (now on car) .
For the MBCA TOR Event at Virginia International Raceway last  
September, I used a 15 x7 wheels (off a 126) w/205/55/R15 Kuhmos,  
not really a race tire but a soft street tire compound.  Those are  
now in my garage and if anyone is interested in them, contact me  
offline, please.


Had no problems w/any of the various sizes.  The rolling  
circumferences were pretty much the same.  IIRC within 2%.


The only difference I noticed was an purely in appearance.  The 60  
profile does not fill the wheel opening, whereas the 70 profile does.


BTW, I got both the Yokes and the Kuhmos from Tire Rack and had them  
mounted locally.


Hope this helps.

Chuck
Phoenix AZ
1980 300SD
1986 190E 2.3 16 Valve...

On Mar 9, 2006, at 7:47 AM, John Robbins wrote:

 

Since the topic of the day seems to be tires and whatnot, and since  
mine

are basically bald, I figured it would be a good time to ask. :)

I've got 185/70/R14 tires on there now, and was playing around and
noticed that 205/60/R14 tires are almost the exact same diameter.   
Will
the extra width work with the stock bundt cake rims?  Or do I just  
need

to suck it up and get 15 rims for a slightly lower profile sidewall?

One other thing I saw was that the owners manual on the W116 CD  
provides
tire sizes for a 280SE and 450SEL.  The 450SEL has 6.5 wide rims  
(with

stock size of 205/60/R14), but the 280SE has 6 wide rims (with
185/70/R14).  Was wondering if anyone knows what the 300SD uses

Thanks!!!
John
'79 300SD


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Re: [MBZ] 1987 Mercedes-Benz : 190-Series 2.5DIESEL

2006-03-09 Thread Marshall Booth

Sunil Hari wrote:

i thought 87 was the one and only year they put a 2.5 turbo in the 190
series ...


There were about 1400 190D 2.5 turbos and 20,000 190D 2.5 naturally 
aspirated cars brought to the US in '87.


All of the injectors in 602 engines were inclined (unlike all of the 
601/603 engine brought to the US in the '80s). In the '90s all of the 
OM602/603 Mercedes diesels used inclined injection. I know of no 
significant difference in them EXCEPT the pop pressure difference 
between turbo and non-turbo engines.


The glow plugs used in OM602 engines were different than what was used 
in previous engines (that had a 25 mm heater length) and some of them 
are expensive to replace ($20-30 each) and hard to find (especially the 
one with a 27 mm heater length - the ones with 23 mm heater length are 
easier to obtain as they were used in many more engines than the 27s).


The 190D 2.5 non-turbo is a VERY reliable engine - almost 
indestructible. Sufficient power (90 hp), acceleration (0-62 mph - 15.1 
sec) equal to an '81-85 300SD or only about a second slower than an 
'82-'85 300Dt with turbo engines with better economy (low 30 mpg 
highway) and handles MUCH better than any 123 model car. With a rebuilt 
transmission, this car could easily deliver another 200+kmi of reliable 
operation with modest maintenance and service. The heating/AC system IS 
expensive to repair/service.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread John Berryman


On Mar 8, 2006, at 11:10 PM, LT Don wrote:


John:

I am 53 years old. I expect to still be driving this same 240D when  
the
State of Iowa makes me surrender my license in three or four  
decades. (I
drive about 6000 miles a year.) It will be a rusty SOB by then, but  
I think
the engine will still be cranking out that 68 horsepower and  
burning a few

quarts of Mobil 1 Spaceship/Spacestation (by then) every so often.



	This, in my opinion, is a reasonable expectation. So if you put a  
little extra $$$ into it now, it'll work out in the long run.


	I f you have $2000 in a car and it lasts a year with no major  
problems, you got your money's worth. Anything past that and you're  
ahead of the game.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Im trying out the kumhos, many folks around here like them, they are 
cheap, last a long time, and have good traction supposedly.


Loren Faeth wrote:

I like sticky all weather tires.  I generally look for T rated A A or AB 
tires that have fairly soft compounds.  They may not go 100K, but i won't 
end up in the ditch or worse either.  When i got my 200D back in 72, i 
bought a set of dunlops to go with it.  These tires had a mini dog-biscuit 
tread pattern, were sticky, but wore adequately (40K range).  I've not seen 
anything else as good in all conditions since.  I could plow snow with that 
car on those tires.  Well, the blizzacks are good in winter, but they are 
not a year round tire.  I am currently trying out contis.  When i could get 
German Contis, that was all I'd buy.  The jury is still out on these US 
(general) contis.


Michelins, in my experience rarely wear out, but slip belts and otherwise 
go to pot.  They are overpriced.  They are french.  I don't want 
them.  Finding good tires at a reasonable price in the US is a 
problem.  The blizzacks and Nokis are overpriced too.  Bad years are 
overpriced an usually slip belts, but when I bought the vw it was on 
expensive goodyears, and they did actually last until they wore out!  I was 
impressed with them, but they were probably $400 back then (1987)  I could 
buy Contis for $30 each at the time. I have NEVER had a German Conti come 
apart or slip a belt.  I ran them on the ford van (6 Ply rated) the MB, the 
valiant, the escort, the Datsun and never had any trouble.  I even had 
frenchy Kleber tires on the valiant when we sold it.  (cause there were no 
Contis available in that size at the time)  They seemed to do ok and had a 
grippy tread pattern and decent compound.


I had expensive Toyos on the Escort, cause Lex Brodie said they were good, 
and you don't have a lot of choices in Honolulu.  I was not happy with 
them.  They came apart after a year or two.


I have been running some Remingtons on my SDLs but they don't grip in snow 
and ice.  I have been running blizzacks in the winter, but this winter is 
about the end for them as a set of 4.  I think I can get one more winter 
out of 2 of them.


As with all tires, your mileage may vary, and it depends on the car and 
driver.  I am a Dieseler.  I rarely go over 80 and don't drive the SCCA 
circuit. But I drive 30-60K a year.  Medium grade, all season tires are 
suited for this application


I won't buy hard high mileage tires.  They will wreck your car and can kill 
you and other people.


My mantra:  Good, sticky tires are cheap insurance.   $0.02

Loren
Lotsa MBs now
A company Dog Caravan I drive sometimes.

At 10:26 PM 3/8/2006, you wrote:


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] head gasket OM 617

2006-03-09 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I doubt you have any head/gasket problems.  If you did you would be 
going thru coolant more often than that.  As far as the mileage goes, 
there are many other things that would cause a drop in mileage before a 
head gasket would.  If you still want a head I have them available.


Karl Wittnebel wrote:

1985 300TD has high pressure in the radiator tank even when cold. Runs low on coolant, but only about twice a year, no visible leak. Mileage has decreased from 26 - 21mpg, no detectable loss of power. Performed coolant chemical test for leak, which was negative. 
   
  Is this the head gasket? If so, anyone have a rebuilt head they'd like to get rid of? Not in a big rush to fix it, but would like my 26mpg back!
   
  Thanks,

  Karl




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 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Marshall Booth

Zoltan Finks wrote:

I'm not too encouraged by what happened a few minutes ago. I spun one wheel
while trying to back up onto the concrete pad I park on. Not ice, not snow,
just rain water. It is a slight incline. I couldn't tell you which tire was
spinning. One may or may not have been on the concrete as opposed to the
asphalt beside it. There is very good tread remaining on the Michelins, and
they are the type with a channel down the center for rain. But, I do
recognize that the tires are likely old and they sat in the AZ sun for who
knows for how long. I know with certainty that had there been H2O in any
other state present I would not have been able to park.


Your problem isn't the design of the car. It may be your tires or it may 
be your driving, but it's NOT the car's design. The only time I 
experience anything lake what you are describing (in a 201 190D) it was 
the tires (they had plenty of tread). New quality tires and all traction 
problems went away. In snow, 75-100 lb in the trunk (which makes the 
front/rear weight distribution almost a perfect 50:50) improves traction 
even with studded tires.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Marshall Booth

Robert  Tara Ludwick wrote:
Michelins are not exactly a good measure of traction ,especially in 
water or worse. The things last forever, but their hard compounds are 
generally pretty scary on slippery surfaces. This would be even worse if 
they were dried out. Michelins are bad enough on cars,, on big trucks 
those things used to scare me to death.


While I have NEVER been fond of the traction or life of the MXV3/4 tires 
that Mercedes supplied as OE on most of my cars, I have used 4 sets (on 
3 different cars) of Michelin X-Ones and have been totally satisfied 
with them in good and bad (even in snow) weather and have gotten 
exceptional life (80+kmi) from each set. If they still made the tire, 
they would be the next set of all season tires on the next car that 
needs tires.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Marshall Booth

Loren Faeth wrote:
I like sticky all weather tires.  I generally look for T rated A A or AB 
tires that have fairly soft compounds.  They may not go 100K, but i won't 
end up in the ditch or worse either.  When i got my 200D back in 72, i 
bought a set of dunlops to go with it.  These tires had a mini dog-biscuit 
tread pattern, were sticky, but wore adequately (40K range).  I've not seen 
anything else as good in all conditions since.  I could plow snow with that 
car on those tires.  Well, the blizzacks are good in winter, but they are 
not a year round tire.  I am currently trying out contis.  When i could get 
German Contis, that was all I'd buy.  The jury is still out on these US 
(general) contis.


Michelins, in my experience rarely wear out, but slip belts and otherwise 
go to pot.  They are overpriced.  They are french.  I don't want 
them.  Finding good tires at a reasonable price in the US is a 
problem.  The blizzacks and Nokis are overpriced too.  Bad years are 
overpriced an usually slip belts, but when I bought the vw it was on 
expensive goodyears, and they did actually last until they wore out!  I was 
impressed with them, but they were probably $400 back then (1987)  I could 
buy Contis for $30 each at the time. I have NEVER had a German Conti come 
apart or slip a belt.  I ran them on the ford van (6 Ply rated) the MB, the 
valiant, the escort, the Datsun and never had any trouble.  I even had 
frenchy Kleber tires on the valiant when we sold it.  (cause there were no 
Contis available in that size at the time)  They seemed to do ok and had a 
grippy tread pattern and decent compound.


I had expensive Toyos on the Escort, cause Lex Brodie said they were good, 
and you don't have a lot of choices in Honolulu.  I was not happy with 
them.  They came apart after a year or two.


I have been running some Remingtons on my SDLs but they don't grip in snow 
and ice.  I have been running blizzacks in the winter, but this winter is 
about the end for them as a set of 4.  I think I can get one more winter 
out of 2 of them.


As with all tires, your mileage may vary, and it depends on the car and 
driver.  I am a Dieseler.  I rarely go over 80 and don't drive the SCCA 
circuit. But I drive 30-60K a year.  Medium grade, all season tires are 
suited for this application


I won't buy hard high mileage tires.  They will wreck your car and can kill 
you and other people.


My mantra:  Good, sticky tires are cheap insurance.   $0.02


Never had a Conti (I've had 4-5 sets of them) last more than 35-40kmi 
and there was NOTHING about wet or dry traction that was better than 
adequate. They WERE fairly quiet.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] head gasket OM 617

2006-03-09 Thread Marshall Booth

Karl Wittnebel wrote:
1985 300TD has high pressure in the radiator tank even when cold. Runs low on coolant, but only about twice a year, no visible leak. Mileage has decreased from 26 - 21mpg, no detectable loss of power. Performed coolant chemical test for leak, which was negative. 
   
  Is this the head gasket? If so, anyone have a rebuilt head they'd like to get rid of? Not in a big rush to fix it, but would like my 26mpg back!


Head gasket problems on that engine are very rare. Cold cooling system 
pressure is common in Mercedes diesels. Much, much more likely to be a 
poor or erratic seal on the cooling system cap or some other leak.


The fuel consumption is MUCH more likely to be a stuck thermostat (an 
engine that is slow to heat up can drop fuel economy by 30% in city 
driving) or fuel system leak. Does the hand fuel pump leak when you pump 
it?  When were the return lines replaced? What about the flex hoses from 
the metal lines to the fuel tank? When were the fuel filters changed? 
What does the timing chain stretch measure?


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread Curt Raymond
I would have disagreed with this until a couple winters ago when I had snows 
put on the 240D. I got just cheapies from Tire Warehouse but they were 
outstanding, except on water when you have to carefully modulate the brakes to 
not slide. With those cheapie snows the 240D would go anywhere. Of course with 
good all seasons it would go nearly anywhere... Lasted good too, I put like 
30,000 on 'em without unacceptable wear.
   
  My 190D with good allseasons goes pretty good but I'm thinking next winter 
I'll get a set of snows on it...
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2006 08:30:38 -0700
From: Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

A couple of general comments on this thread:

1) Putting on two snow tires - meaning real snows, with the snowflake
on the mountain symbol (not M+S rated tires, which means NOTHING)...
is half useless. You need FOUR snow tires. You do expect to steer,
and/or stop, right? A set of snows usually last for many seasons. A
couple hundred bucks, spread out over a few years, is way cheaper
than wrecking your car, or getting stranded somewhere.

2) Anyone who thinks all season tires work great in snow or ice
either does not live in real ice or snow country, or has never driven
a car with four real snow tires (again, an M+S rating does not mean
snow tire).


(flame suit on)

Dave M.
(Four studded Kumhos KW-11's on the VW, studless Kumhos on the 300E)



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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anybody need front coil springs for 450SL?
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On Mar 9, 2006, at 1:12 AM, michael smith wrote:

  Also have brake pads for W116 (rear) and multiple front brake  
 calipers for W116

   Mike in San Diego


Mike,
I could use a pair of Bendix front calipers (as long as they're not  
stuck) and I could also put the rear pads to use. I found some reman  
calipers for $52.00 ea but would rebuild a used pair, both for peace  
of mind and $aving. Do you have good hoses w/calipers?
E-mail me  [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you want to ship to me  
in the 12814 zip code and to discuss price of parts and shipping. I  
can PayPal the $$ or whatever method you prefer. I will be starting  
work on my 116 in the next few days.

Thanks,
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] speaking of wheels

2006-03-09 Thread Desert Rat
Don, they won't fit on your W126 chassis.Your ET is approximately 25.



On 3/9/06, Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Lee L. wrote:



 Speaking of wheels, I have a set of 4 E300 wheels on ebay . . . 



 Anyone know if these will fit on my car.  1990 300SEL.  According to the
 listing they are 16 x 7.5  41 et.   I have the original 15 hole wheels
 which are 15 inch.





 Donald H. Snook

 1990 300SEL 125K

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1992 500 SEL 140K Stardust
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1996 Sidekick 57K Kermit



Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread John Berryman


On Mar 8, 2006, at 11:36 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote:

On a positive note, a brief drive tonight to the store for grocs.  
was quite

pleasing



Feelng better now?

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions

2006-03-09 Thread John Berryman


On Mar 9, 2006, at 1:37 AM, Zoltan Finks wrote:

A lot of talk about studded tires. I've never used them so let me  
ask: Do

they wear out very quickly on dry pavement?


	No but, by law, most states require that they are removed by a  
predetermined date. In NY they are allowed from Oct 15-May 15.




Or can you use them throughout
the winter - even if conditions are dry - and if so, how many  
seasons do

they last?


Yes and longevity depends on all of the variables.


I would think that the studs, if used in dry conditions at all
would go bye bye quickly.


	Not really especially if they are carbide. Most newer/better snow  
tires have a cushion beneath the studs to allow them to retract a bit  
on contact. Centrifugal force helps them come out and get a purchase  
when the wheels spin.




Also: I thought I had heard that studded tires were illegal some  
places?


	They are illegal in some locales, I believe Canada or at least  
Ontario doesn't allow them




Brian


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] OT: 1988 Caprice Classic half track/ice fishing vehicle

2006-03-09 Thread John Berryman


On Mar 9, 2006, at 1:42 AM, David Brodbeck wrote:


It's extremely clever and also frightening at the same time.

It looks like something Red Green would come up with.



	I have seen set-ups like this in use. Conversion kits were available  
for Model A Fords and maybe even earlier vehicles, so this is not new  
technology. I saw a good early example in the Dixie Gun Works Auto  
Museum in Union City Tennessee last year.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



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