Re: [MBZ] 190D, fan clutch and other 190 questions

2006-04-07 Thread Frederick Moir
Hi, All.
  Kaleb, my expierence with an 190E is that the temp switches on the top of the 
engine water outlet are non too reliable, and the fix is to use one from an 
124. The 124 switches are set a few degrees lower and work out better, ( I 
know, clear as mud). As for the mileage, Mine did about 21-22 in mixed driving 
and about 25 @ 65-70 highway.
  This was an 1985 190E automatic with 187K miles that ran, and still runs, 
well. (tin worm).
  HTH.
  Fred Moir
  Now cured of gasaholicism.
  Lynn MA
  'It's diesel this and diesel that, and chuck 'im out , the brute. RK.

Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  What temp is the main fan clutch supposed to engage? Mine doesnt appear 
to. Pulled connector off temp switch and grounded it and clutch kicked 
in. Does this mean my temp switch is bad?

Next question, what kind of mileage might a 190E 2.3 get in constant 
stop and go driving? Would a gas 102 be better in this sort of driving 
than the diesel?



-
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starting at 1cent;/min.
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Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 16:15:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: hue wong [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Advice on Timing Chain Replacement (was: 300td timing
chainissues)
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Ho all!

I keep seeing timing chains that work on 240d 300d and
300sd...  One quick question.

Are all these chains universial across the cars?  136
link chains for 61x.xxx engines?

Here is one on ebay for 59.00...  seems to be the
cheapest around...


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-DIESEL-TURBO-DIESEL-TIMING-CHAIN-240D-300D-SD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQitemZ8054279146QQrdZ1



--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 You wrote:
 I have some questions for the collective group if
 I
 may, as I try and understand the diesel timing chain
 and how it corresponds to the engine tune.
 
 I'm exactly at 5% stretch on my timing chain in my
 '82 300t with a stock turbo 617.
 From what I have been gathering from the various
 input
 I have received that this is just a bit much and the
 timing chain should be replaced.  So I have decided
 to
 do this.
 When I do this, should I:
 Replace the tensionier?
 
 I doubt it - the tensioner usually lasts a really
 long time.  How many miles 
 are on the engine??  Of course, the tensioner is not
 very expensive and if 
 you want everything to be as close to On Spec as
 possible it won't hurt - 
 but it can always be done later - IIRC it's 2 nuts
 and the tensioner comes 
 off if you want to replace it later.
 
 Since there is enough wear to stretch the chain 5%
 I
 suspect there will be some little slack in the
 sprockets.  So the new chain will not exactly line
 up
 at zero when I put it on.  So should I suspect it to
 line up at like 1%?
 
 When I replaced mine I did not replace the sprockets
 and it aligned 
 perfectly at 0.
 
 I plan on just crimping with a hammer, (since I
 have
 some vague experience with a ball peen) this seems
 fairly straight forward.
 
 Make the decision on how to proceed when you have
 the chain and connecting 
 link in your hands.  And consider that a failed
 crimp could destroy the 
 engine. Also consider the place you'll be working
 and trying to hold a 
 backing plate in place while you 

Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info

2006-04-07 Thread Royce Engler
I don't want to suggest that we don't need new refineries (specifically, we
need more capacity), but the argument that we haven't built a new refinery
since 1978 isn't quite true.  It's been my observation from within the awl
bidness that while there haven't been any new sites (i.e. green field
locations), every refinery is in a constant state of rebuilding.  You either
do that or you get left behind.  But you can't build on a new location
without bringing out all the NIMBYs to try to stop you.

Having said that, I suspect that the real problem is twofold.  First, the
crazy quilt of environmental regulations requires refiners to make a whole
lot of different formulations which adds significantly to cost.  Second, the
focus of American business on quarter to quarter profits drives long term
businesses like refining to take short term improvements at the expense of
strategic improvements.

My $.02.

OBTW...I took a new day job which will involve about a 25 mile commute, so
the Shaggin Wagin will start really earning its keep.  Just put a new half
shaft in the rear end and it rides real sweet.

Royce Engler
1985 300TD Turbo 285K
Mobil1 in everything





Re: [MBZ] Advice on Timing Chain Replacement (was: 300td timingchainissues)

2006-04-07 Thread James Zavesky
Call Rusty and give him the VIN from your car. He will get you the right
parts for your car. Such as the timing chain and chain tensioner.

8007415252

He's the list sponsor

James Zavesky


- Original Message - 
From: hue wong [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 7:15 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Advice on Timing Chain Replacement (was: 300td
timingchainissues)


 Ho all!

 I keep seeing timing chains that work on 240d 300d and
 300sd...  One quick question.

 Are all these chains universial across the cars?  136
 link chains for 61x.xxx engines?

 Here is one on ebay for 59.00...  seems to be the
 cheapest around...



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-DIESEL-TURBO-DIESEL-TIMING-CHAIN-240D-300D-SD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQitemZ8054279146QQrdZ1



 --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  You wrote:
  I have some questions for the collective group if
  I
  may, as I try and understand the diesel timing chain
  and how it corresponds to the engine tune.
 
  I'm exactly at 5% stretch on my timing chain in my
  '82 300t with a stock turbo 617.
  From what I have been gathering from the various
  input
  I have received that this is just a bit much and the
  timing chain should be replaced.  So I have decided
  to
  do this.
  When I do this, should I:
  Replace the tensionier?
 
  I doubt it - the tensioner usually lasts a really
  long time.  How many miles
  are on the engine??  Of course, the tensioner is not
  very expensive and if
  you want everything to be as close to On Spec as
  possible it won't hurt -
  but it can always be done later - IIRC it's 2 nuts
  and the tensioner comes
  off if you want to replace it later.
 
  Since there is enough wear to stretch the chain 5%
  I
  suspect there will be some little slack in the
  sprockets.  So the new chain will not exactly line
  up
  at zero when I put it on.  So should I suspect it to
  line up at like 1%?
 
  When I replaced mine I did not replace the sprockets
  and it aligned
  perfectly at 0.
 
  I plan on just crimping with a hammer, (since I
  have
  some vague experience with a ball peen) this seems
  fairly straight forward.
 
  Make the decision on how to proceed when you have
  the chain and connecting
  link in your hands.  And consider that a failed
  crimp could destroy the
  engine. Also consider the place you'll be working
  and trying to hold a
  backing plate in place while you tap-tap-tap with
  your little hammer - while
  making sure the connecting link stays in place as
  you hold everything and
  swing the hammer, gently.
 
  I have a small dremel with a grinding disk.  Would
  this tool be enough to grind off the pins to loose
  the
  old chain?
 
  Probably - that steel's pretty high quality and your
  grinding wheels tools
  must be up to the task,
 
  Ummm  Is there anything else I should think of
  before
  I try and swap the timing chains?  I am new to this,
  so any info or insight you may have, would be
  greatly
  appreciated.!
 
  Give us a day to think about it --
 
  Good luck - and try to get your mind of it for a
  little while -- 
 
 
  Sincerely,
  Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
  A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
  For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
  Weber Carb Stuff
  http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
  http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my
  Paint Job Info
  
  http://www.striplin.net
  For new parts see official list sponsor:
  http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 
 http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
 
 
 
  ___
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  For new parts see official list sponsor:
  http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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[MBZ] Pinched from sniffpetrol.com

2006-04-07 Thread RELNGSON
SMART CANCELS EVERYTHING 

When bosses at DaimlerChrysler's up shit creek brand Smart warned that tough 
decisions were needed if the company was to make a profit, many industry 
observers were unsurprised when these decisions included killing the ailing 
Roadster model and last week's announcement that they will also cease 
production of 
the larger ForFour model. Now Smart management has revealed their most radical 
cost saving measure to date - they're not going to bother making any cars at 
all. To see some return on investment it was crucial that we deleted 
unprofitable models like the Roadster and ForFour and these measures seemed to 
work, 
said someone who was inside. So then we realised that if we got rid of the 
ForTwo as well this would completely solve the problem of trying to sell cars 
at 
a loss. Car making is a difficult business to return a profit on. So we aren't 
going to do it any more. Now we are just going to sit here keeping out of 
trouble and everything will be fine.
Whilst some observers are puzzled as to how you can be a car company when you 
don't make any cars, at least one high profile industry figure was approving 
of the unusual plan: I can heartily recommend this approach to car 
not-making, said former MG Rover boss Joan Towers. We stopped building cars 
almost a 
year ago and I still seem to have lots of money.


Re: [MBZ] Advice on Timing Chain Replacement (was: 300td timing chainissues)

2006-04-07 Thread Loren Faeth
I would not speculate on the quality of the timing chain.  Order one from 
Rusty using the link at the bottom of each email, or if that makes you 
nervous, buy one from a reputable dealer, such as Caliber Motors. Order the 
tensioner too!


My $.02

At 06:15 PM 4/6/2006, you wrote:

Ho all!

I keep seeing timing chains that work on 240d 300d and
300sd...  One quick question.

Are all these chains universial across the cars?  136
link chains for 61x.xxx engines?

Here is one on ebay for 59.00...  seems to be the
cheapest around...


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-DIESEL-TURBO-DIESEL-TIMING-CHAIN-240D-300D-SD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQitemZ8054279146QQrdZ1



--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 You wrote:
 I have some questions for the collective group if
 I
 may, as I try and understand the diesel timing chain
 and how it corresponds to the engine tune.

 I'm exactly at 5% stretch on my timing chain in my
 '82 300t with a stock turbo 617.
 From what I have been gathering from the various
 input
 I have received that this is just a bit much and the
 timing chain should be replaced.  So I have decided
 to
 do this.
 When I do this, should I:
 Replace the tensionier?

 I doubt it - the tensioner usually lasts a really
 long time.  How many miles
 are on the engine??  Of course, the tensioner is not
 very expensive and if
 you want everything to be as close to On Spec as
 possible it won't hurt -
 but it can always be done later - IIRC it's 2 nuts
 and the tensioner comes
 off if you want to replace it later.

 Since there is enough wear to stretch the chain 5%
 I
 suspect there will be some little slack in the
 sprockets.  So the new chain will not exactly line
 up
 at zero when I put it on.  So should I suspect it to
 line up at like 1%?

 When I replaced mine I did not replace the sprockets
 and it aligned
 perfectly at 0.

 I plan on just crimping with a hammer, (since I
 have
 some vague experience with a ball peen) this seems
 fairly straight forward.

 Make the decision on how to proceed when you have
 the chain and connecting
 link in your hands.  And consider that a failed
 crimp could destroy the
 engine. Also consider the place you'll be working
 and trying to hold a
 backing plate in place while you tap-tap-tap with
 your little hammer - while
 making sure the connecting link stays in place as
 you hold everything and
 swing the hammer, gently.

 I have a small dremel with a grinding disk.  Would
 this tool be enough to grind off the pins to loose
 the
 old chain?

 Probably - that steel's pretty high quality and your
 grinding wheels tools
 must be up to the task,

 Ummm  Is there anything else I should think of
 before
 I try and swap the timing chains?  I am new to this,
 so any info or insight you may have, would be
 greatly
 appreciated.!

 Give us a day to think about it --

 Good luck - and try to get your mind of it for a
 little while --


 Sincerely,
 Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
 A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
 For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 Weber Carb Stuff
 http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my
 Paint Job Info
 
 http://www.striplin.net
 For new parts see official list sponsor:
 http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:

http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net



 ___
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 http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:

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Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron

2006-04-07 Thread Loren Faeth
Two more 50-100 million gallon per year refineries were announced today, in 
the same small town.  There are refineries popping up at the rate of 
several a month.  It is just that they are making ethanol or biod.


We do need some new oil refineries.

At 04:58 PM 4/6/2006, you wrote:

You;re right - it's been close to 30 years since a new refinery came on
line - 1978 IIRC

I'd like to see some new refineries with modern technology built (and some
nuclear power stations) but I fear we'll let the foreigners provide our oil
for the foreseeable future.  I read a few years ago about the cost to build
something as innocuous as a warehouse built on land in Ca. already owned by
a company needed for expansion (and more jobs) - after spending over $1
million in fees and studies over a 10 year period, the company gave up.
Then they moved the whole operation to Idaho who welcomed them with open
arms.

A refinery doesn't have a chance --

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 3:35 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron


 David Brodbeck wrote:
 Christopher McCann wrote:
 ULSD has almost NO sulfur but better lubricity than than ANY
 #1 diesel and than MOST #2.

   Becuase a lubricity agent is added, I assume...

 I don't believe any lubricity additive is necessary (even for use with
 fuel lubricated distributor type pumps) IF they put back all they took
 out when removing the sulfur (or they could modify the blend), but that
 can't easily be done economically in many of the OLD facilities that
 exist in the US. I don't think there has been a NEW refinery built in
 the US in 25-30 years. The Europeans have been doing it for years. Their
 facilities are far more modern than ours I'm told.

 Marshall
 --
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Re: [MBZ] 190D, fan clutch and other 190 questions

2006-04-07 Thread John Berryman


On Apr 6, 2006, at 6:39 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

What temp is the main fan clutch supposed to engage?  Mine doesnt  
appear
to.  Pulled connector off temp switch and grounded it and clutch  
kicked

in.  Does this mean my temp switch is bad?


	I will say 105, without checking a manual. Throw it in a pot of  
water with a thermometer as if it were a thermostat hook your trusty  
multimeter to it and see where it shows 0 resistance while it heats up.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] 190D, fan clutch and other 190 questions

2006-04-07 Thread Marshall Booth

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
What temp is the main fan clutch supposed to engage?  Mine doesnt appear 
to.  Pulled connector off temp switch and grounded it and clutch kicked 
in.  Does this mean my temp switch is bad?


Next question, what kind of mileage might a 190E 2.3 get in constant 
stop and go driving?  Would a gas 102 be better in this sort of driving 
than the diesel?


The main fan usually cuts on at about 100 deg. C. The aux fan cuts on at 
100 deg. C in '85 and 105 in later models. The main fan temp switch will 
fail if you wash the engine compartment vigorously! BTDT more than once.


A gas 201 won't do better than 25-27 mpg stop and go. The diesel is better.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] 190D, fan clutch and other 190 questions

2006-04-07 Thread Hendrik Riessen
I did have the experience of having bad soldering at the actual connectors 
of the fan clutch on a 86 190E.
A 2.3 with KE should get about 10-12L/100kmhs (buggered if I know what that 
is in your antique language) which would be comparable to a 2.5 diesel I 
suppose. Dr. Diesel would probably know more.


Hendrik
who might have to deactivate a cylinder in the 230E to save fuel

- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 8:09 AM
Subject: [MBZ] 190D, fan clutch and other 190 questions



What temp is the main fan clutch supposed to engage?  Mine doesnt appear
to.  Pulled connector off temp switch and grounded it and clutch kicked
in.  Does this mean my temp switch is bad?

Next question, what kind of mileage might a 190E 2.3 get in constant
stop and go driving?  Would a gas 102 be better in this sort of driving
than the diesel?
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net`

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Re: [MBZ] The Single Most Useful Tool

2006-04-07 Thread Harry Watkins
Bruce

I have to agree, I ordered one after reading your postl and its great.  My
wife has taken the first one so there is another on order.  She grooms dogs
and wanted to try it on a black poodle and wham, it was commandeered.

The second one is about $10 cheaper than the one from REI but look at the
name of the site and you can understand why. :)

http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/default.asp?s_id=0

Keleb must have a deal going.

Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans

- Original Message - 
From: B Dike [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 in my toolbox is the Petzl Zipka Plus LED headlamp. It has a  retractable
microcord headband so it can be put on or taken off the  head instantly
while working and used either as headlamp or hand  light.  No clumsy floppy
headstraps. Very small, carries in the  pocket.  Extremely bright, smart
power management logic.  Was  birthday gift from wife (how do they know
these things??)

   Order it from REI:
http://www.rei.com/online/store/ProductDisplay?storeId=8000catalogId=4008000productId=47667894parent_category_rn=4500596

 Bruce
 82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
 85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
 75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
 77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
 73 220D 'It'





Re: [MBZ] Mercedes high tech OT

2006-04-07 Thread Hendrik Riessen
I suppose if the person yelled out stupid a...hole he/she would have got 
Bush and Co.


Just another joke, no flames ta

Hendrik
who thinks all politicians should be shot at birth

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 1:41 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Mercedes high tech OT





Subject: A New Car



This was  sent to me today.

I just got my new Mercedes 500 SL, and I returned to the dealer the  next 
day

with the complaint that I couldn't figure out how the radio worked. The
salesman explained that the radio was voice activated.

Watch this! he said. Nelson!  The radio replied, Ricky or  Willie?

Willie, he continued  and then On The Road Again came from  the
speakers.

I drove away happy, and for the next few days, every time I'd say,
Beethoven! I'd get beautiful classical music, and if I said, Beatles! 
I'd  get one

of their awesome songs.

One day a couple ran a red light and nearly creamed my new car, but  I
swerved just in time to avoid them.

A--holes! I yelled.

The French National Anthem began to play, sung by Jane Fonda and  Michael
Moore, backed up by John Kerry on guitar, Al Gore on Drums and Bill 
Clinton on

sax

I love this car!!!

Just a joke, no flames please.

Jim in Phoenix

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Re: [MBZ] Advice on Timing Chain Replacement (was: 300td timing chainissues)

2006-04-07 Thread l02turner
To expand on Lorens comment about buying the TC and TC Tensioner from Rusty 
of someone like Caliber - be aware there are Counterfeit parts veing sold 
as original equipment quality.  Some cars have been damaged by sub-quality 
parts so be wary of buying parts from unknown sources.  People on eBay 
appear and disappear with regularity and should a problem surface in the 
future you may find you have no one to get help from.


I'm not saying the TC you're quoting with the lowest price has a 
questionable background - but sometimes the lowest price is not the least 
expensive.


Good luck -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 7:39 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Advice on Timing Chain Replacement (was: 300td timing 
chainissues)




I would not speculate on the quality of the timing chain.  Order one from
Rusty using the link at the bottom of each email, or if that makes you
nervous, buy one from a reputable dealer, such as Caliber Motors. Order 
the

tensioner too!

My $.02

At 06:15 PM 4/6/2006, you wrote:

Ho all!

I keep seeing timing chains that work on 240d 300d and
300sd...  One quick question.

Are all these chains universial across the cars?  136
link chains for 61x.xxx engines?

Here is one on ebay for 59.00...  seems to be the
cheapest around...


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-DIESEL-TURBO-DIESEL-TIMING-CHAIN-240D-300D-SD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQitemZ8054279146QQrdZ1



--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 You wrote:
 I have some questions for the collective group if
 I
 may, as I try and understand the diesel timing chain
 and how it corresponds to the engine tune.

 I'm exactly at 5% stretch on my timing chain in my
 '82 300t with a stock turbo 617.
 From what I have been gathering from the various
 input
 I have received that this is just a bit much and the
 timing chain should be replaced.  So I have decided
 to
 do this.
 When I do this, should I:
 Replace the tensionier?

 I doubt it - the tensioner usually lasts a really
 long time.  How many miles
 are on the engine??  Of course, the tensioner is not
 very expensive and if
 you want everything to be as close to On Spec as
 possible it won't hurt -
 but it can always be done later - IIRC it's 2 nuts
 and the tensioner comes
 off if you want to replace it later.

 Since there is enough wear to stretch the chain 5%
 I
 suspect there will be some little slack in the
 sprockets.  So the new chain will not exactly line
 up
 at zero when I put it on.  So should I suspect it to
 line up at like 1%?

 When I replaced mine I did not replace the sprockets
 and it aligned
 perfectly at 0.

 I plan on just crimping with a hammer, (since I
 have
 some vague experience with a ball peen) this seems
 fairly straight forward.

 Make the decision on how to proceed when you have
 the chain and connecting
 link in your hands.  And consider that a failed
 crimp could destroy the
 engine. Also consider the place you'll be working
 and trying to hold a
 backing plate in place while you tap-tap-tap with
 your little hammer - while
 making sure the connecting link stays in place as
 you hold everything and
 swing the hammer, gently.

 I have a small dremel with a grinding disk.  Would
 this tool be enough to grind off the pins to loose
 the
 old chain?

 Probably - that steel's pretty high quality and your
 grinding wheels tools
 must be up to the task,

 Ummm  Is there anything else I should think of
 before
 I try and swap the timing chains?  I am new to this,
 so any info or insight you may have, would be
 greatly
 appreciated.!

 Give us a day to think about it --

 Good luck - and try to get your mind of it for a
 little while --


 Sincerely,
 Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
 A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
 For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 Weber Carb Stuff
 http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my
 Paint Job Info
 
 http://www.striplin.net
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 http://www.buymbparts.com/
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Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam 

Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron

2006-04-07 Thread l02turner
I've seen comercials on TV pushing ethenol - suggesting if everyone used it 
there would not be a fuel shortage,


Is that accurate?  Isn't 15% the max % of ethenol that can be used on autos 
realistically?


Didn't I read on this list someone say Ethenol is a negative return?  i.e., 
it takes more than a gallon of gasoline to produce a gallon of ethenol?


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 7:49 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron


Two more 50-100 million gallon per year refineries were announced today, 
in

the same small town.  There are refineries popping up at the rate of
several a month.  It is just that they are making ethanol or biod.

We do need some new oil refineries.

At 04:58 PM 4/6/2006, you wrote:

You;re right - it's been close to 30 years since a new refinery came on
line - 1978 IIRC

I'd like to see some new refineries with modern technology built (and some
nuclear power stations) but I fear we'll let the foreigners provide our 
oil
for the foreseeable future.  I read a few years ago about the cost to 
build
something as innocuous as a warehouse built on land in Ca. already owned 
by

a company needed for expansion (and more jobs) - after spending over $1
million in fees and studies over a 10 year period, the company gave up.
Then they moved the whole operation to Idaho who welcomed them with open
arms.

A refinery doesn't have a chance --

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 3:35 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron


 David Brodbeck wrote:
 Christopher McCann wrote:
 ULSD has almost NO sulfur but better lubricity than than ANY
 #1 diesel and than MOST #2.

   Becuase a lubricity agent is added, I assume...

 I don't believe any lubricity additive is necessary (even for use with
 fuel lubricated distributor type pumps) IF they put back all they took
 out when removing the sulfur (or they could modify the blend), but that
 can't easily be done economically in many of the OLD facilities that
 exist in the US. I don't think there has been a NEW refinery built in
 the US in 25-30 years. The Europeans have been doing it for years. 
 Their

 facilities are far more modern than ours I'm told.

 Marshall
 --
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

 ___
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[MBZ] DieselPurge

2006-04-07 Thread LT Don
Did my Spring DieselPurge treatment this evening on the 240D. Even though
I've done this task several times before, I am always amazed at how quickly
things quiet down while the Purge is running thru the injectors. Mine must
not have been too bad from winter driving, because it took only 5 minutes to
go from clatta-clatta-clank to the sound of a sewing machine!

If any of you folks have NOT done this to your diesel, please call Rusty and
order a can or two. It is amazing stuff.

D.


--
There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies.
-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] Advice on Timing Chain Replacement (was: 300tdtimingchainissues)

2006-04-07 Thread Rick Knoble

Here is one on ebay for 59.00...  seems to be the
cheapest around...




http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-DIESEL-TURBO-DIESEL-TIMING-CHAIN-240D-300D-SD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQitemZ8054279146QQrdZ1




Isn't that Big Baboon?

Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT 



Re: [MBZ] Advice on Timing Chain Replacement (was: 300tdtimingchainissues)

2006-04-07 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

yes

Rick Knoble wrote:


Here is one on ebay for 59.00...  seems to be the
cheapest around...





http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-DIESEL-TURBO-DIESEL-TIMING-CHAIN-240D-300D-SD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQitemZ8054279146QQrdZ1



Isn't that Big Baboon?

Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT 


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] tonights project

2006-04-07 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

You are trying to trick me.

Luther Gulseth wrote:

Also, I found that sitting on the firewall it is MUCH easier to get your  
hand down to replace the glow plugs.  Don't ask WHY I was sitting  
there. Also saves your back from strain.


For Kaleb.  In my spotter training I was taught that 3 miles from a  
tornado (to the southwest) is the best distance.  I have been this close  
also, and personally know others who've been closer.


On Thu, 06 Apr 2006 20:30:46 -0500, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
wrote:




Had some hard starting problems on my SD here lately, then this last
weekend the glow plug quit turning on.  Pulled out the 30-0-30 ammeter  
and
verified 2,3,5 were all shorted out.  1 and 4 both acted like they  
should,
30A draw slowly falling to 10-15A.  I fashioned a 3 stage glow plug  
reamer

out of the 3 bad plugs, flattened each one out to different widths.
Reamed all 5 holes out (#5 was a bear..).  The whole time we are
watching the T-Storm to the west brewing and building.  We can see a
strong updraft and upper level rotation indicating a probable tornado and
large hail.  Got the plugs back in, and the injection lines back on and
primed.  Started the car and it ran beautifully like it should.  Picked
the tools up and washed up.  The sirens started sounding while I was
washing upwonderful, just enough time to finish the project and watch
the radar and storm.  We're under a tornado warning right now, I LOVE
SPRING!








--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] tonights project

2006-04-07 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

who would that be?

Luther Gulseth wrote:

Not really.  One of the best meterologists in Tulsa was nearly caught  
underneath a forming tornado up in Kansas 2 years ago in May.




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] tonights project

2006-04-07 Thread Mitch Haley
Luther Gulseth wrote:
 
 Not really.  One of the best meterologists in Tulsa was nearly caught
 underneath a forming tornado up in Kansas 2 years ago in May.

My cousin's wife was caught under one in the 1970's. She was curled up
in the basement with her eyes shut when the house left. It was modular,
and whatever method they used to attach it to the foundation wasn't
tornado-tough. The whole house got converted into kindling. Pieces
everywhere.



[MBZ] this weeks ebay ad winner

2006-04-07 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/11511012046181_W0QQitemZ4627421224QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] tonights project

2006-04-07 Thread Luther Gulseth

Steve Piltz.  I also know Ed Calianese and Jamie Frederick.

On Thu, 06 Apr 2006 21:06:25 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
wrote:



who would that be?

Luther Gulseth wrote:


Not really.  One of the best meterologists in Tulsa was nearly caught
underneath a forming tornado up in Kansas 2 years ago in May.







--
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi)
'82 300CD (159,xxx kmi)
'82 300D  (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work



Re: [MBZ] tonights project

2006-04-07 Thread Luther Gulseth
That's cause they work for NOAA in the main weather office in Tulsa.   
They're the brains behind EVERYTHING you see that has to do with weather.


On Thu, 06 Apr 2006 21:31:11 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
wrote:



Never heard of any of them.

Luther Gulseth wrote:


Steve Piltz.  I also know Ed Calianese and Jamie Frederick.

On Thu, 06 Apr 2006 21:06:25 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin  
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

wrote:



who would that be?

Luther Gulseth wrote:



Not really.  One of the best meterologists in Tulsa was nearly caught
underneath a forming tornado up in Kansas 2 years ago in May.













--
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi)
'82 300CD (159,xxx kmi)
'82 300D  (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work



Re: [MBZ] tonights project

2006-04-07 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I only know the people that show up on TV.  My aunt is one of the news 
anchors for channel 6


Luther Gulseth wrote:

That's cause they work for NOAA in the main weather office in Tulsa.   
They're the brains behind EVERYTHING you see that has to do with weather.


On Thu, 06 Apr 2006 21:31:11 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
wrote:




Never heard of any of them.





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] this weeks ebay ad winner

2006-04-07 Thread Loren Faeth

Hey!  Its green!  Kaleb, you need this one!

At 09:19 PM 4/6/2006, you wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/11511012046181_W0QQitemZ4627421224QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] tonights project

2006-04-07 Thread Jim Cathey
weekend the glow plug quit turning on.  Pulled out the 30-0-30 ammeter 
and
verified 2,3,5 were all shorted out.  1 and 4 both acted like they 
should,


A nit: if they were _shorted_ they would have blown the fuse
(unless in a series chain), they were probably open.  Totally
opposite failures.

-- Jim




[MBZ] Seat broke

2006-04-07 Thread Jim Cathey

Sat in the driver's seat of the SDL for the first time in awhile
today, and immediately asked my wife How long has the seat been
broken?  It lists to the left now, feels like a broken spring.  What
do you mean? is all I got.  Didn't you notice it go 'poink' when you
sat in it and it dumped you to the left? Huh?

Gonna have to dive into that before it pokes a hole in the seat pad.
I sure wish she wouldn't flop down into the seat the way she does.
Like a... no, I think I'd better not go there!

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] tonights project

2006-04-07 Thread Luther Gulseth
Ughyou are correct sir, hense the 0A reading when I checked  
themsheesh.


On Thu, 06 Apr 2006 21:51:40 -0500, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


weekend the glow plug quit turning on.  Pulled out the 30-0-30 ammeter
and
verified 2,3,5 were all shorted out.  1 and 4 both acted like they
should,


A nit: if they were _shorted_ they would have blown the fuse
(unless in a series chain), they were probably open.  Totally
opposite failures.

-- Jim





--
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi)
'82 300CD (159,xxx kmi)
'82 300D  (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work



Re: [MBZ] Advice on Timing Chain Replacement (was: 300td timingchainissues)

2006-04-07 Thread Peter Frederick
The timing chain for all the 61x engines is similar, but NOT for the 
60x engines, they are longer I think.


You must have the correct one, needless to say.

If you do change it, you MUST keep both ends on the cam sprocket at all 
times, dropping one end can cause serious timing issues.  Wire ties 
work (get a big bundle) or the special tool that hold the chain on both 
sides (I borrow one).


Peter




Re: [MBZ] tonights project

2006-04-07 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Im pretty well known myself, I always have people come up to me talking 
and I have no clue who they are, not sure if thats good or bad though.


Luther Gulseth wrote:

Sheesh, are all your relatives 10 times more well known than you are?

On Thu, 06 Apr 2006 21:40:51 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
wrote:



I only know the people that show up on TV.  My aunt is one of the news
anchors for channel 6

Luther Gulseth wrote:


That's cause they work for NOAA in the main weather office in Tulsa.
They're the brains behind EVERYTHING you see that has to do with  
weather.


On Thu, 06 Apr 2006 21:31:11 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin  
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

wrote:



Never heard of any of them.









Re: [MBZ] VPC (was: We can all just throw our Macs away)

2006-04-07 Thread redghost
How have you configured the ram available to win98?  For some reason I 
find it needs at least 128 to be happy, but if you can load the whole 
mess into ram, that would be good.  Give it 512 for more bang.  Also 
check virtual CPU usage.  If there is a virus, you will find it up 
around 95%.  Wipe and start over is the standard winblow trouble shoot


On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 10:27 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:


On 4/5/06, redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Used to run VPC on a 9500/200 and it was about as fast as having a
P5/133.  Had it hopped up with ram.  No OS X version, so no idea if it
runs well on the iMac and what speed.  The 6400/G3 400 made it seem
about as fast as a 266 PII under OS 8.6 and 384 ram




Humph.  I wonder what's wrong with my setup.  I have VPC 5 running on 
a 1
Ghz G4 with 1.5 Gb of RAM and OS X 10.3, and Win98 is unusably slow.  
Like

you click a menu title and count the seconds until it drops down.
Seriously, it's slower than a 386DX25 I used to have to run Windows 
3.1 on.

Virus or bad Win98 install or something?  Should I wipe the virtual
partition and start over?  I have been using Macs forever and consider
myself pretty good with them, but Windows hates me and this has me 
stumped.


Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper
'99 Sawtooth G4, PowerLogix accelerator, Radeon 8500
'98 Lombard G3 PowerBook
Assorted junky sacrificial PCs for specific purposes, like running 
OBDII

diagnostic software
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

2006-04-07 Thread redghost
It has more to do with hours wasted trying to keep the POS running.  If 
you have done installs of windows, you can see why a mac user will be 
very perplexed by a person willing to subject themselves to that 
torture.  Sort of the head scratch I have with Mistress Jill.  WTF gets 
into a boy to want to be hung up with tuna hooks on 100# test line?


An OS install for mac takes a few moments and runs.  A winblows install 
can take all weekend to get it nailed down right.


On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 11:22 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote:

When I heard the news on the radio today, I knew lots of people would 
get

all worked up.

Mac vs. PC reminds me of the Mopar vs. Chevy war that raged in my 
circles

growing up.

As a graphic artist, I have used lots of Macs, but some years ago it 
seems
PCs became capable enough to do everything I need to do. So I don't 
feel

much loyalty either way. To me, a computer is a tool - I have never
understood the passion.

Well, actually, I may begin to understand when I think of the war in 
terms
of cars. I would throw down in defense of Mopars as a kid. I hated 
Chevys.
And Fords did not often even enter the conversation. Guess everyone 
needs

something to root for. Look at avid sports fans, heck, even young gang
members. We need something that allows us to say, Hey, this is mine, 
this

is who I am, you got a problem with that?

Brian
Feeling philosophical tonight

On 4/6/06, redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Used to run VPC on a 9500/200 and it was about as fast as having a
P5/133.  Had it hopped up with ram.  No OS X version, so no idea if it
runs well on the iMac and what speed.  The 6400/G3 400 made it seem
about as fast as a 266 PII under OS 8.6 and 384 ram

On Wednesday, April 5, 2006, at 08:21 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:

He needs to run winders for FEMA, but prefers to work efficiently 
the

rest
of the time.  I have been drooling over the macbooks for some time
now.


And why not run VPC (or equivalent) instead?  No dual-booting 
involved,

and the PC junk is never in control enough to be able to hammer the
system, only itself.  Plenty fast enough for a whole lot of uses.

-- Jim


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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

2006-04-07 Thread Jim Cathey

An OS install for mac takes a few moments and runs.  A winblows install
can take all weekend to get it nailed down right.


With VPC it's just dupe the master already-installed template file
and you're done.  Moments, indeed.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

2006-04-07 Thread redghost
It is the crust in the back of the wheel that I am trying to make go 
away.  What little there is on the front is pretty simple to remove


On Thursday, April 6, 2006, at 11:18 AM, David Brodbeck wrote:


archer wrote:
A pressure washer held just close enough to remove the dirt/brake 
dust and
not the finish did a good job on a set of bundt wheels after spraying 
them

with some kind of cleaner (409?) I forget which one.



In that vein, I've had reasonably good results at removing light
accumulations by spraying the wheels with cheap parts store wheel
cleaner just before driving through a self-serve automatic car wash.


David Brodbeck
'83 300D Turbo


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Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron

2006-04-07 Thread redghost
What of all the shuttered refineries.  They are just dormant superfund 
sites.  I am sure that somebody will get the bright idea to fire them 
back up.


Oh, wait, that would mean cutting into the profits, and might flood the 
market with fuel, thereby lowering profits per barrel


On Thursday, April 6, 2006, at 04:49 PM, Loren Faeth wrote:

Two more 50-100 million gallon per year refineries were announced 
today, in

the same small town.  There are refineries popping up at the rate of
several a month.  It is just that they are making ethanol or biod.

We do need some new oil refineries.

At 04:58 PM 4/6/2006, you wrote:
You;re right - it's been close to 30 years since a new refinery came 
on

line - 1978 IIRC

I'd like to see some new refineries with modern technology built (and 
some
nuclear power stations) but I fear we'll let the foreigners provide 
our oil
for the foreseeable future.  I read a few years ago about the cost to 
build
something as innocuous as a warehouse built on land in Ca. already 
owned by
a company needed for expansion (and more jobs) - after spending over 
$1
million in fees and studies over a 10 year period, the company gave 
up.
Then they moved the whole operation to Idaho who welcomed them with 
open

arms.

A refinery doesn't have a chance --

 David Brodbeck wrote:

Christopher McCann wrote:

ULSD has almost NO sulfur but better lubricity than than ANY
#1 diesel and than MOST #2.

  Becuase a lubricity agent is added, I assume...


I don't believe any lubricity additive is necessary (even for use 
with
fuel lubricated distributor type pumps) IF they put back all they 
took
out when removing the sulfur (or they could modify the blend), but 
that

can't easily be done economically in many of the OLD facilities that
exist in the US. I don't think there has been a NEW refinery built in
the US in 25-30 years. The Europeans have been doing it for years. 
Their

facilities are far more modern than ours I'm told.

Marshall



--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] this weeks ebay ad winner

2006-04-07 Thread redghost

jeeez

14 bids, no feedback, and it is over $1k


On Thursday, April 6, 2006, at 07:19 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ 
11511012046181_W0QQitemZ4627421224QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

--
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  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron

2006-04-07 Thread redghost
But these plants are using synfuel coal.  That allows for multiple tax 
breaks, such that the gummint covers 90% of the cost to produce


On Thursday, April 6, 2006, at 07:34 PM, David Brodbeck wrote:


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Didn't I read on this list someone say Ethenol is a negative return?  
i.e.,
it takes more than a gallon of gasoline to produce a gallon of 
ethenol?




I don't know if it's actually a negative return, but it's not really a
green fuel because of how it's produced.  Many of the new ethanol
plants being built are fired by coal:

Late last year in Goldfield, Iowa, a refinery began pumping out a
stream of ethanol, which supporters call the clean, renewable fuel of
the future.

There's just one twist: The plant is burning 300 tons of coal a day to
turn corn into ethanol - the first US plant of its kind to use coal
instead of cleaner natural gas.

An hour south of Goldfield, another coal-fired ethanol plant is under
construction in Nevada, Iowa. At least three other such refineries are
being built in Montana, North Dakota, and Minnesota.

(http://www.csmonitor.com/2006/0323/p01s01-sten.html)


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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] tonights project

2006-04-07 Thread Kevin
On Thu, Apr 06, 2006 at 09:40:51PM -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 I only know the people that show up on TV.  My aunt is one of the news 
 anchors for channel 6

Channel 6, the only channel that the FCC will not allow to go digital.

K



Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

2006-04-07 Thread Zoltan Finks
Sounds impressive. Especially if it was on dry pavement. You must emulate
the slide-around-the-corner techniques displayed on the cop shows - a la
Rockford Files or A-Team. You know what's impressive, are the J-turns
executed in the Presidential limousines. They get the front end bouncing off
the ground during execution of that move.

Brian
83 240D


On 4/6/06, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I only lost a hubcap off my 240D once and that was when a tire monkey lost
 a clip.

 Several times I had my 240D sliding sideways thinking Hmm, what do I do
 now? To say I drove that car hard would be somewhat of an understatement, I
 beat the everloving snot out of it.
 That said I always had cheap tires on it too...
 My 190D handles like its on rails by comparison although I think maybe the
 240D rides a little nicer.

 -Curt

 Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 12:29:42 -0500
 From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims
 To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

 Me too! Surprised to hear myself say that as I've always loved
 aluminum wheels - unsprung weight and all that. I just like the
 character the steels and caps give (or as wife calls it cute).

 Here's a question I've had: Has anyone seen or heard of the
 wheelcovers popping off a Mercedes under hard cornering? I know that
 this happens on a lot of cars, and it's why police cars would always
 have hubcaps (just covering the middle of the wheel), rather than
 wheel covers which cover the whole diameter, attaching to the outer
 lip of wheel (and thus are succeptible to popping off under wheel
 flex).

 I know on that old TV commercial that was posted to the list some time
 ago, that orange 300D was cornering at the limits of its capability,
 and the wheel covers stayed on. Unless I'm forgetting and it had
 bundts. Or unless they sneakily adhered them to the wheels in
 preparation for the handling demonstration.

 Brian
 83 240D



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Re: [MBZ] Seat broke

2006-04-07 Thread Zoltan Finks
You've got a flopper too? I fight back the urge to tell the wife to be less
gibbon-like with most of the controls in the car (especially to avoid
cranking around the temperature dials every time she feels hot or cold - I'd
rather she utilize the fresh air lever, or shut down or open up her vents
rather than twirling those dials that I think are going to croak anytime). I
have yet to bring up her collapsing into the seat like she's scuba diving
off a boat. I'm just making progress on the door slamming.

Brian
83 240D
whose wife doesn't read list, obviously


On 4/6/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Sat in the driver's seat of the SDL for the first time in awhile
 today, and immediately asked my wife How long has the seat been
 broken?  It lists to the left now, feels like a broken spring.  What
 do you mean? is all I got.  Didn't you notice it go 'poink' when you
 sat in it and it dumped you to the left? Huh?

 Gonna have to dive into that before it pokes a hole in the seat pad.
 I sure wish she wouldn't flop down into the seat the way she does.
 Like a... no, I think I'd better not go there!

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] [Banned] tonights project

2006-04-07 Thread Luther Gulseth
how big in diamater is the reamer itself?  I'm curious about how flat/wide I 
can make a glow plug and not damage the prechamber.

~ I HAD a glow plug bore reamer that I would have loaned you but I loaned it
~to snip
~b1



-- 
Luther KB5QHU 
Alma, Ark 
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi) 
'82 300CD (159,222 kmi) 
'82 300D (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work



Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron

2006-04-07 Thread lee
You can use 100% ethanol if you put larger main jets in your carburator. Don't 
know how you would accomodate with a fuel injection system. 

As for the more than a gallon of gas to produce a gallon of ethanol 
statement, the same has been said about biodiesel, but only AFAIK by one 
researcher who seems fixated on discrediting alternative fuels.  I haven't 
seen any other studies to back his contention up. 

The other issue with ethanol is how you produce it. Fermenting corn is only 
one way of producing ethanol. It is also possible to begin with cellulose, 
digest it by chemical or even fungal or bacterial means, and then ferment it 
into ethanol.  So you could produce ethanol from grass, or from the corn 
stalks rather than the ears, or from sawdust, etc. 

Lee

On Thursday 06 April 2006 6:56, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I've seen comercials on TV pushing ethenol - suggesting if everyone used it
 there would not be a fuel shortage,

 Is that accurate?  Isn't 15% the max % of ethenol that can be used on autos
 realistically?

 Didn't I read on this list someone say Ethenol is a negative return?  i.e.,
 it takes more than a gallon of gasoline to produce a gallon of ethenol?

 Sincerely,
 Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
 A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
 For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
 - Original Message -
 From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 7:49 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron

  Two more 50-100 million gallon per year refineries were announced today,
  in
  the same small town.  There are refineries popping up at the rate of
  several a month.  It is just that they are making ethanol or biod.
 
  We do need some new oil refineries.
 
  At 04:58 PM 4/6/2006, you wrote:
 You;re right - it's been close to 30 years since a new refinery came on
 line - 1978 IIRC
 
 I'd like to see some new refineries with modern technology built (and
  some nuclear power stations) but I fear we'll let the foreigners provide
  our oil
 for the foreseeable future.  I read a few years ago about the cost to
 build
 something as innocuous as a warehouse built on land in Ca. already owned
 by
 a company needed for expansion (and more jobs) - after spending over $1
 million in fees and studies over a 10 year period, the company gave up.
 Then they moved the whole operation to Idaho who welcomed them with open
 arms.
 
 A refinery doesn't have a chance --
 
 Sincerely,
 Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
 A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
 For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
 - Original Message -
 From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 3:35 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron
 
   David Brodbeck wrote:
   Christopher McCann wrote:
   ULSD has almost NO sulfur but better lubricity than than ANY
   #1 diesel and than MOST #2.
  
 Becuase a lubricity agent is added, I assume...
  
   I don't believe any lubricity additive is necessary (even for use with
   fuel lubricated distributor type pumps) IF they put back all they took
   out when removing the sulfur (or they could modify the blend), but
   that can't easily be done economically in many of the OLD facilities
   that exist in the US. I don't think there has been a NEW refinery
   built in the US in 25-30 years. The Europeans have been doing it for
   years. Their
   facilities are far more modern than ours I'm told.
  
   Marshall
   --
 Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
 der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
   190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
  
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Re: [MBZ] DieselPurge

2006-04-07 Thread Christopher McCann
Indeed.
  
  And I do believe that you are to manually manipulate your throttle  linkage 
from medium to fast and a little slow while Purging...it is not  to be done 
idling the whole time, correct? Shouldn't take more than 15  minutes to burn 
through that bottle, no?
  
  Chris

LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Did my Spring DieselPurge treatment this 
evening on the 240D. Even though
I've done this task several times before, I am always amazed at how quickly
things quiet down while the Purge is running thru the injectors. Mine must
not have been too bad from winter driving, because it took only 5 minutes to
go from clatta-clatta-clank to the sound of a sewing machine!

If any of you folks have NOT done this to your diesel, please call Rusty and
order a can or two. It is amazing stuff.

D.


--
There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies.
-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

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Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2006 06:28:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Subject: [MBZ] Fwd: [Biodiesel] methanol, viton hoses and IP
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I never got a really good anser to all these questions on the BIoD list, so I'm 
posint here.
  
  Thanks,
  
  CM
  
  Particularly interested in if there are any rubber components inside an  IP 
and if so, what they do...do they come in contact with fuel?
  
  CM

Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 17:28:14 
-0700 (PDT)
From: Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Biodiesel] methanol, viton hoses and IP

  What is it about BioD that eats through old fuel hoses? Is it trace amounts 
of methanol left behind?
  
  If yes, then will the methanol also eat rubber components in the  IP...or are 
there rubber components in the IP (injection pump)...I  suspect o-rings, but I 
really don't know.
  
 If it's not trace  methanol, just the BioD itself, will THAT potentially harm 
a twenty  year old IP and any rubber components that may or may not be there?
  
  Thanks!
  
  Chris
  
  

Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger
  
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To 

Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

2006-04-07 Thread Curt Raymond
The street in to work is somewhat of a racetrack. I was behind a guy with a 
Subaru STI one day and decided to see how well I could pace him. While I of 
course had nothing on his acceleration I found I could hit speedbumps at least 
twice as fast as he did and my willingness to throw my 240D into 90degree turns 
at speed made me quite competitive.
  Yeah it was alot like on Cops, I'd floor the go pedal and drag the wheel 
around. Get the car going sideways, take my foot off the throttle just a little 
and the rears would catch, back on throttle and I'm off. I imagine with a 300D 
I could probably have done really well. The 190D does well but I'm reluctant to 
throw it around as much.
   
  -Curt
   
   
  Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2006 01:16:18 -0500
From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Sounds impressive. Especially if it was on dry pavement. You must 
emulate
the slide-around-the-corner techniques displayed on the cop shows - a 
la
Rockford Files or A-Team. You know what's impressive, are the J-turns
executed in the Presidential limousines. They get the front end 
bouncing off
the ground during execution of that move.

Brian
83 240D




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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Seat broke
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 You've got a flopper too? I fight back the urge to tell the wife to be 
 less
 gibbon-like with most of the controls in the car (especially to avoid
 cranking around the temperature dials every time she feels hot or cold 
 - I'd
 rather she utilize the fresh air lever, or shut down or open up her 
 vents
 rather than twirling those dials that I think are going to croak 
 anytime). I
 have yet to bring up her collapsing into the seat like she's scuba 
 diving
 off a boat. I'm just making progress on the door slamming.

[Furtively looking around, coast is clear...]

Yes.

The SDL has an ACC system which mostly she doesn't fiddle with.
But I often get in to find it on Bi-level, or Off.  It's a mystery.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

2006-04-07 Thread Jim Cathey
The street in to work is somewhat of a racetrack. I was behind a guy 
with a Subaru STI one day and decided to see how well I could pace 
him. While I of course had nothing on his acceleration I found I could 
hit speedbumps at least twice as fast as he did and my willingness to 
throw my 240D into 90degree turns at speed made me quite competitive.


As in so many things, it's not so much what you've got but what
you do with it...

My brother raced dirt bikes at one time.  Can you guess what happened
one time we all (siblings  cousins) went to the go-kart racetrack?
He won every time.  Handily.  Didn't seem to matter which pig he got
stuck with.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

2006-04-07 Thread Levi Smith
Hate to tell you, but if you were keeping up with the STi in the 
corners, then the guy was either taking it easy, or doesn't know how to 
drive it that well.
That car weighs less than either a 240D or 300D and has more than twice 
the power of the 300D and about 4 times a 240D.  So on the straights he 
should be REALLY leaving you behind.  His 0-60mph time is what 4 
seconds?  Yours is what 20?
On the corners, I'd pretty well guarantee that his suspension is 
superior to a 240 or 300 in perfect condition, let alone I'm guessing 
most of these 20-30 year old cars aren't as good as they used to be?  (:


If it makes you feel better, you can carry a lot more 5 gallon pails in 
your trunk than he can!


WY different thinking between those two cars.  But great engineering 
and reliability in both.  (:



Levi
83' 300D
97' Subaru Impreza



Curt Raymond wrote:

The street in to work is somewhat of a racetrack. I was behind a guy with a 
Subaru STI one day and decided to see how well I could pace him. While I of 
course had nothing on his acceleration I found I could hit speedbumps at least 
twice as fast as he did and my willingness to throw my 240D into 90degree turns 
at speed made me quite competitive.
  Yeah it was alot like on Cops, I'd floor the go pedal and drag the wheel 
around. Get the car going sideways, take my foot off the throttle just a little 
and the rears would catch, back on throttle and I'm off. I imagine with a 300D 
I could probably have done really well. The 190D does well but I'm reluctant to 
throw it around as much.
   
  -Curt
   
   
  Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2006 01:16:18 -0500

From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Sounds impressive. Especially if it was on dry pavement. You must 
emulate
the slide-around-the-corner techniques displayed on the cop shows - a 
la

Rockford Files or A-Team. You know what's impressive, are the J-turns
executed in the Presidential limousines. They get the front end 
bouncing off

the ground during execution of that move.

Brian
83 240D




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[MBZ] 450SL Tranny ?

2006-04-07 Thread Rich Thomas
My buddy's 79 450SL tranny has started acting up -- holding (what I 
think is) the 2-3 shift at 35-40mph.  He says it does not shift right 
sometimes, will rev much higher, then shift.  I have not yet driven the 
car to see what it is doing, but suggested first thing is a new 
filter/M1 fluid change.  See what that does, about due for it anyway.


? is -- Is this tranny like the 79 TD's, vac shifted?  Maybe a bad 
connection?  Modulator, etc. that goes bad?  These could be easy fixes I 
guess, would not indicate something more dire.  (OK that is maybe 3 ?s 
but they are all kinda the same)


Thoughts?

--R




Re: [MBZ] this weeks ebay ad winner

2006-04-07 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

and no good pics or description

redghost wrote:


jeeez

14 bids, no feedback, and it is over $1k


On Thursday, April 6, 2006, at 07:19 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ 
11511012046181_W0QQitemZ4627421224QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] this weeks ebay ad winner

2006-04-07 Thread Sunil Hari
It's in Mississippi - want to bet it's Katrina damaged?

On 4/7/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 and no good pics or description

 redghost wrote:

  jeeez
 
  14 bids, no feedback, and it is over $1k
 
 
  On Thursday, April 6, 2006, at 07:19 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 
 
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/
 11511012046181_W0QQitemZ4627421224QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
   84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
 http://www.striplin.net
 
 ___
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 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
 
 
 
 
 
  --
  Clay
  Seattle Bioburner
 
  1972 220D - Gump
  1995 E300D - Cleo
  1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
  The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
 
 
  ___
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  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
   84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
 http://www.striplin.net

 ___
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 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474


Re: [MBZ] DieselPurge

2006-04-07 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 4/7/2006 6:22:10 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

And I do  believe that you are to manually manipulate your throttle  linkage 
from  medium to fast and a little slow while Purging...it is not  to be done  
idling the whole time, correct? Shouldn't take more than 15  minutes to  burn 
through that bottle, no?



For maximum cleaning effect, the fuel return line should be routed back to  
the purge container and the fluid recycled until gone.  This took me about  45 
minutes, mostly at idle. 
 
Watch the level and don't let it run completely dry!  Hard starting  will 
ensue. 
 
I set up my video camera to listen to the engine before, during, and  after 
the purge.  It was definitely more quiet after!  
 
Regards,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles 
98 ML 320, 141 K  miles



Re: [MBZ] 450SL Tranny ?

2006-04-07 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 4/7/2006 7:12:14 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

My  buddy's 79 450SL tranny has started acting up -- holding (what I 
think is)  the 2-3 shift at 35-40mph.  He says it does not shift right  
sometimes, will rev much higher, then shift.  I have not yet driven  the 
car to see what it is doing, but suggested first thing is a new  
filter/M1 fluid change.  See what that does, about due for it  anyway.

? is -- Is this tranny like the 79 TD's, vac shifted?   Maybe a bad 
connection?  Modulator, etc. that goes bad?  These  could be easy fixes I 
guess, would not indicate something more dire.   (OK that is maybe 3 ?s 
but they are all kinda the  same)

Thoughts?



R,
 
Don't overlook a failing kick down switch, probably under the throttle  
pedal.  If sticking closed it will elevate shift points and nearly lock out  
top 
gear.  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles 
98 ML 320, 141 K  miles



[MBZ] Columbus CL 1987 300D

2006-04-07 Thread Sunil Hari
No affiliation, etc.

http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/149033663.html

--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474


Re: [MBZ] Seat broke

2006-04-07 Thread Jim Cathey

Pulled the driver's seat (what a PITA!) to find that yes, indeed,
there is a broken spring.  Fortunately it hadn't poked too far into
the pad yet.  The break was out in the middle where access would be
easy once the motorized frame was removed.  While I do have extra
springs from the boneyard heated seats I laid in, installing them
would not be a quick job.  I decided that I could weld this break in
place much easier.

To get the motorized frame off you have to be able to run it back and
forth to gain access to the various screw heads.  If you pull the
plugs to the motors from the controller module you can see that two of
the five contacts are much larger than the others.  These are the
motor connections, and it was an easy matter to hook a battery to them
to move them, reversing the polarity as necessary.  The fun part is in
guessing which motor and plug is the one you need.

With the frame removed I laid down old carpeting over the stump I use
as a welding prop and the ground, so that the seat wouldn't be
scuffed, and placed the seat for easy access to the bottom.  Then I
soaked a bunch of old towels in water and laid them over everything so
that only the spring break (!)  was exposed.  That protects everything
from flying bits of molten metal.  The ground clamp was secured to one
of the noninsulated crimps that hold the (coated) springs together.
(I theorized that the coating was penetrated by the crimped metal.  In
fact it was.)  Then I wedged the two broken ends together and hit them
with the MIG.  Zap!  The ends were secured.  This, however, is an
insufficient fix as welding springs ruins their temper, I don't
believe that this kind of fix would hold long.  What I did next was
wrap the break in a bandage of mild sheet steel, a 1/4 strip that had
been cut out of another project.  I then welded the wraps together so
that it is semi-solid.  This, I hope, will hold it all together.  (I
have done similar fixes before and none have broken to my knowledge,
but none have been subjected to she-who-must-drop-from-a-height for
any length of time.)

I put the seat on the ground and sat on it, and it felt better to me.
Reinstallation promises to be just as much of a pain as removal was.
But it's time for breakfast.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 450SL Tranny ?

2006-04-07 Thread Jim Cathey

My buddy's 79 450SL tranny has started acting up -- holding (what I
think is) the 2-3 shift at 35-40mph.  He says it does not shift right
sometimes, will rev much higher, then shift.


Don't forget to check the kickdown switch.  Easy to get crapped up.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] DieselPurge

2006-04-07 Thread LT Don
I ran it on slow idle for most of the time, but did bump it up to fast idle
for about five minutes in the middle of the procedure.

On 4/7/06, Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Indeed.

   And I do believe that you are to manually manipulate your
 throttle  linkage from medium to fast and a little slow while Purging...it
 is not  to be done idling the whole time, correct? Shouldn't take more than
 15  minutes to burn through that bottle, no?

   Chris




--
There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies.
-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


[MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

2006-04-07 Thread Christopher McCann
and does it come into contact with fuel or just motor oil?
  
  Sorry, I have no idea how these things work :-(
  
  THANKS!
  
  CM
  

Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?
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Other than the delivery valve o-rings, I'm not aware of any rubber
seals that come into direct contact with the fuel in an inline MB
injection pump.  They use engine oil for lubricating the pump
internals.

On 4/7/06, Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 and does it come into contact with fuel or just motor oil?

Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler (212k)
'84 300D (211k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)



Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

2006-04-07 Thread Curt Raymond
Uhh yeah, that'd be true on the street... Did you miss the part about my 
flogging the 240D over speedbumps where he was scared of bottoming out?
  0-60 isn't as relevent as 0-30 in this case.
  Also my willingness to take a 90 degree turn at 30mph that completes by 
bouncing off the curb...
   
  So yeah he's not driving his to the full extent because he doesn't want to 
break stuff. On the 240D I really didn't care...
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2006 09:53:40 -0400
From: Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

Hate to tell you, but if you were keeping up with the STi in the 
corners, then the guy was either taking it easy, or doesn't know how to 
drive it that well.
That car weighs less than either a 240D or 300D and has more than twice 
the power of the 300D and about 4 times a 240D.  So on the straights he 
should be REALLY leaving you behind.  His 0-60mph time is what 4 
seconds?  Yours is what 20?
On the corners, I'd pretty well guarantee that his suspension is 
superior to a 240 or 300 in perfect condition, let alone I'm guessing 
most of these 20-30 year old cars aren't as good as they used to be?  
(:

If it makes you feel better, you can carry a lot more 5 gallon pails in 
your trunk than he can!

WY different thinking between those two cars.  But great 
engineering 
and reliability in both.  (:


Levi
83' 300D
97' Subaru Impreza




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Christopher McCann wrote:
 Indeed.
   
   And I do believe that you are to manually manipulate your throttle  linkage 
 from medium to fast and a little slow while Purging...it is not  to be done 
 idling the whole time, correct? Shouldn't take more than 15  minutes to burn 
 through that bottle, no?

It usually takes me 15-20 minutes to run a can of Diesel Purge thru one 
of my cars. I warm the engine up first and run the engine at different 
speeds while it's being fueled with the DP.

Marshall
-- 
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)



Re: [MBZ] Seat broke

2006-04-07 Thread Marshall Booth

Jim Cathey wrote:

Pulled the driver's seat (what a PITA!) to find that yes, indeed,
there is a broken spring.  Fortunately it hadn't poked too far into
the pad yet.  The break was out in the middle where access would be
easy once the motorized frame was removed.  While I do have extra
springs from the boneyard heated seats I laid in, installing them
would not be a quick job.  I decided that I could weld this break in
place much easier.

To get the motorized frame off you have to be able to run it back and
forth to gain access to the various screw heads.  If you pull the
plugs to the motors from the controller module you can see that two of
the five contacts are much larger than the others.  These are the
motor connections, and it was an easy matter to hook a battery to them
to move them, reversing the polarity as necessary.  The fun part is in
guessing which motor and plug is the one you need.

With the frame removed I laid down old carpeting over the stump I use
as a welding prop and the ground, so that the seat wouldn't be
scuffed, and placed the seat for easy access to the bottom.  Then I
soaked a bunch of old towels in water and laid them over everything so
that only the spring break (!)  was exposed.  That protects everything
from flying bits of molten metal.  The ground clamp was secured to one
of the noninsulated crimps that hold the (coated) springs together.
(I theorized that the coating was penetrated by the crimped metal.  In
fact it was.)  Then I wedged the two broken ends together and hit them
with the MIG.  Zap!  The ends were secured.  This, however, is an
insufficient fix as welding springs ruins their temper, I don't
believe that this kind of fix would hold long.  What I did next was
wrap the break in a bandage of mild sheet steel, a 1/4 strip that had
been cut out of another project.  I then welded the wraps together so
that it is semi-solid.  This, I hope, will hold it all together.  (I
have done similar fixes before and none have broken to my knowledge,
but none have been subjected to she-who-must-drop-from-a-height for
any length of time.)

I put the seat on the ground and sat on it, and it felt better to me.
Reinstallation promises to be just as much of a pain as removal was.
But it's time for breakfast.


I have dozens of reports of repaired springs. Virtually all failed, 
most within weeks or months. A few that had the repair supplemented 
with lots of foam packed around/under the spring to provide additional 
support lasted longer or much longer.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] this weeks ebay ad winner

2006-04-07 Thread andrew strasfogel
Smells like SHILL BIDDING was at work...

On 4/7/06, Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 It's in Mississippi - want to bet it's Katrina damaged?

 On 4/7/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  and no good pics or description
 
  redghost wrote:
 
   jeeez
  
   14 bids, no feedback, and it is over $1k
  
  
   On Thursday, April 6, 2006, at 07:19 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
  
  
  http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/
  11511012046181_W0QQitemZ4627421224QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
  --
  Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
  http://www.striplin.net
  
  ___
  http://www.striplin.net
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
  
  
  
  
  
   --
   Clay
   Seattle Bioburner
  
   1972 220D - Gump
   1995 E300D - Cleo
   1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
   The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
  
  
   ___
   http://www.striplin.net
   For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
   For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
   To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
   http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
  
  
  
 
  --
  Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
  http://www.striplin.net
 
  ___
  http://www.striplin.net
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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 --
 Sunil Hari
 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 513-205-7474
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Re: [MBZ] DieselPurge

2006-04-07 Thread andrew strasfogel
Can someone please post a link to a webpage setting forth the proper
procedure (pref. with photo(s)) for running the purge through my W123 300TD
turbodiesel?

On 4/7/06, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Christopher McCann wrote:
  Indeed.
 
And I do believe that you are to manually manipulate your
 throttle  linkage from medium to fast and a little slow while Purging...it
 is not  to be done idling the whole time, correct? Shouldn't take more than
 15  minutes to burn through that bottle, no?

 It usually takes me 15-20 minutes to run a can of Diesel Purge thru one
 of my cars. I warm the engine up first and run the engine at different
 speeds while it's being fueled with the DP.

 Marshall
 --
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

 ___
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[MBZ] anyone want a 79 6.9?

2006-04-07 Thread Dave Wakin

http://newyork.craigslist.org/jsy/car/148841246.html



Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

2006-04-07 Thread Marshall Booth

Sunil Hari wrote:

When I had bundt wheels, mine never got dirty from brake dust - they still
had the factory inner liners between the wheels and the brakes, and so the
wheels still looked pristine.  The liners were metal (maybe aluminum?) and
not that thick, but they took all the abuse from the brake dust.  Maybe
these liners are still available.


What you call factory inner liners are more likely aftermarket Kleen 
Wheels and are forbidden by Mercedes (there are TSBs on the subject) 
because they seriously compromise the brakes and their stopping power 
under prolonged use or emergency conditions.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] DieselPurge

2006-04-07 Thread LT Don
Forgive me Rusty.

A good step by step is in the Performance Parts catalog.  I can fax it to
you if you send me your fax number off-list.

Don


On 4/7/06, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Can someone please post a link to a webpage setting forth the proper
 procedure (pref. with photo(s)) for running the purge through my W123
 300TD
 turbodiesel?

 On 4/7/06, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Christopher McCann wrote:
   Indeed.
  
 And I do believe that you are to manually manipulate your
  throttle  linkage from medium to fast and a little slow while
 Purging...it
  is not  to be done idling the whole time, correct? Shouldn't take more
 than
  15  minutes to burn through that bottle, no?
 
  It usually takes me 15-20 minutes to run a can of Diesel Purge thru one
  of my cars. I warm the engine up first and run the engine at different
  speeds while it's being fueled with the DP.
 
  Marshall
  --
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
  190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
 
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--
There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies.
-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] M1 ATF Change - Was - DieselPurge

2006-04-07 Thread l02turner

Jim wrote (about Diesel Purge) -  It was definitely more quiet after

Speaking of becoming quieter, I changed the ATF and filter early this week 
(on the '91 300D) and could swear the car is quieter!


While I expect this when changing from fossil to synthetic engine oil, the 
change in sound level from fossil ATF to M1 ATF was unexpected.


Has anyone else experienced this (with the ATF change) or is it my 
imagination/wishful thinking?


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 11:32 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] DieselPurge




In a message dated 4/7/2006 6:22:10 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

And I do  believe that you are to manually manipulate your throttle 
linkage
from  medium to fast and a little slow while Purging...it is not  to be 
done
idling the whole time, correct? Shouldn't take more than 15  minutes to 
burn

through that bottle, no?



For maximum cleaning effect, the fuel return line should be routed back to
the purge container and the fluid recycled until gone.  This took me about 
45

minutes, mostly at idle.

Watch the level and don't let it run completely dry!  Hard starting  will
ensue.

I set up my video camera to listen to the engine before, during, and 
after

the purge.  It was definitely more quiet after!

Regards,

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles
98 ML 320, 141 K  miles

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Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

2006-04-07 Thread Marshall Booth

Rhonald Angelo wrote:
I have been negligent in washing.my wheels are looking bad..the rear cleaned 
up well, but the front ones are not comming clean and it feels rough in some 
places..some pitting I guess...any suggestions on what to clean them with, 
to keep from making it worse?  I know about the clean wheels but have 
heard discussions about overheating...some have said not to use, some say ok 
if slotted..another said if one has a habit of riding the brakes while 
driving, it is problematic...what to do..I don't have time to clean wheels 3 
- 4 times a week..


Remember, the Mercedes light alloy wheels from the '70s and '80s are 
PAINTED. You mustn't use anything on them that's harsher than what you'd 
use on the painted surface of the car body. They are painted with Astral 
Silver paint (paint code 735) and covered with clear coat.


Using products meant to clean bare metal alloy wheels is FAR too harsh 
and will destroy the finish.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] anyone want a 79 6.9?

2006-04-07 Thread andrew strasfogel
It's got that oogy velour interior that always smells like 12 year old
tobacco smoke...  I could b*rf just thinking about it


On 4/7/06, Dave Wakin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 http://newyork.craigslist.org/jsy/car/148841246.html

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Re: [MBZ] M1 ATF Change - Was - DieselPurge

2006-04-07 Thread Marshall Booth

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Jim wrote (about Diesel Purge) -  It was definitely more quiet after

Speaking of becoming quieter, I changed the ATF and filter early this week 
(on the '91 300D) and could swear the car is quieter!


While I expect this when changing from fossil to synthetic engine oil, the 
change in sound level from fossil ATF to M1 ATF was unexpected.


Has anyone else experienced this (with the ATF change) or is it my 
imagination/wishful thinking?


I've NEVER noticed any change in sound. My transmissions don't make any 
detectable sound when the engine/driveline is properly supported by 
their rubber mounts and couplings, but the transmission does shift more 
smoothly - especially in cold weather.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] Seat broke

2006-04-07 Thread Luther Gulseth
I repaired my SD driver seat nearly a year ago using copper clad steel wire 
wrapped into a tight coil and slid as a support sleeve around the break and 
J.B. Weld.  Still together today and the only issue is a missing bolt in the 
seat.

Luther

~
~I have dozens of reports of repaired springs. Virtually all failed, 
~most within weeks or months. A few that had the repair supplemented 
~with lots of foam packed around/under the spring to provide additional 
~support lasted longer or much longer.
~
~Marshall
~-- 
~ Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
~   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
~'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
~190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
~
~___
~http://www.striplin.net
~For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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~
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-- 
Luther KB5QHU 
Alma, Ark 
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi) 
'82 300CD (159,222 kmi) 
'82 300D (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work



Re: [MBZ] DieselPurge

2006-04-07 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On 4/7/06, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Christopher McCann wrote:
  Indeed.
 
And I do believe that you are to manually manipulate your
 throttle  linkage from medium to fast and a little slow while Purging...it
 is not  to be done idling the whole time, correct? Shouldn't take more than
 15  minutes to burn through that bottle, no?

 It usually takes me 15-20 minutes to run a can of Diesel Purge thru one
 of my cars. I warm the engine up first and run the engine at different
 speeds while it's being fueled with the DP.

 Marshall


Why not mount a bottle or jar under the hood (duct tape to the rescue!) as a
temporary fuel tank and then drive around until it's gone?  I would think
the beneficial effects of Purging would only be enhanced by a simultanous
Italian tuneup.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper


Re: [MBZ] Seat broke

2006-04-07 Thread Marshall Booth

Luther Gulseth wrote:

I repaired my SD driver seat nearly a year ago using copper clad steel wire 
wrapped into a tight coil and slid as a support sleeve around the break and 
J.B. Weld.  Still together today and the only issue is a missing bolt in the 
seat.



I'll mention that in the future.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

2006-04-07 Thread Loren Faeth
Engine oil lubricating the IP is not true for OM 621 and at least some 615 
engines.  Does anyone know where the cutoff was between the fuel lubricated 
pumps and crankcase oil lubricated pumps?  I think it was mid 70s somewhere.


My 66 engines are fuel lubricated.  My 81 240D is engine lubed.

Loren

At 12:10 PM 4/7/2006, you wrote:

Other than the delivery valve o-rings, I'm not aware of any rubber
seals that come into direct contact with the fuel in an inline MB
injection pump.  They use engine oil for lubricating the pump
internals.

On 4/7/06, Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 and does it come into contact with fuel or just motor oil?

Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler (212k)
'84 300D (211k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)

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Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

2006-04-07 Thread Jim Cathey
Engine oil lubricating the IP is not true for OM 621 and at least some 
615
engines.  Does anyone know where the cutoff was between the fuel 
lubricated
pumps and crankcase oil lubricated pumps?  I think it was mid 70s 
somewhere.


Are you sure about that?  Ones with the red OEL cap are still engine
oil lubricated, but you have to pour the engine oil into them!  They
don't get it automatically from the engine.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Seat broke

2006-04-07 Thread Jim Cathey
I repaired my SD driver seat nearly a year ago using copper clad steel 
wire wrapped into a tight coil and slid as a support sleeve around the 
break and J.B. Weld.  Still together today and the only issue is a 
missing bolt


This is substantially what I have just done, except that there was no
JB about the welding.  I would never expect the repair to hold if the
spring was merely welded back together.  The key is the splint.

But we'll see how long it holds up.  The SDL gets driven a lot and
we're planning to keep it indefinitely.  I can feel the repair from
below, so I can keep tabs on it.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

2006-04-07 Thread Marshall Booth

Loren Faeth wrote:
Engine oil lubricating the IP is not true for OM 621 and at least some 615 
engines.  Does anyone know where the cutoff was between the fuel lubricated 
pumps and crankcase oil lubricated pumps?  I think it was mid 70s somewhere.


My 66 engines are fuel lubricated.  My 81 240D is engine lubed.


All Bosch injection pumps in Mercedes diesels are lubricated with engine 
oil - NOT fuel. The early ones (OM615/616 thru 1976) were NOT connected 
to the engine lubrication system, the later ones were connected, but 
engine oil was the lubricant in all of them.


One of the maintenance points (job 800 '72-'80 Maintenance Manual) on 
the early ones was to unscrew the check plug and fill the pump with 
engine oil so it would displace any fuel/fuel-oil mix that had migrated 
into the oil reservoir.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] 450SL Tranny ?

2006-04-07 Thread Rich Thomas
I'll have him check that out, see if it is buggered up at all.  Does 
this tranny have the B2 (or B4?) valve that breaks?  Does it have vac 
assist?  I'm trying to narrow things down from the transmission is broken.


--R

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


R,

Don't overlook a failing kick down switch, probably under the throttle  
pedal.  If sticking closed it will elevate shift points and nearly lock out  top 
gear.  


Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles 
98 ML 320, 141 K  miles


 






Re: [MBZ] M1 ATF Change - Was - DieselPurge

2006-04-07 Thread Rich Thomas
Maybe some dripped down into your ears when you were under there doing 
the fluid drain?  That could make things quieter!


--R

Marshall Booth wrote:


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 


Jim wrote (about Diesel Purge) -  It was definitely more quiet after

Speaking of becoming quieter, I changed the ATF and filter early this week 
(on the '91 300D) and could swear the car is quieter!


While I expect this when changing from fossil to synthetic engine oil, the 
change in sound level from fossil ATF to M1 ATF was unexpected.


Has anyone else experienced this (with the ATF change) or is it my 
imagination/wishful thinking?
   



I've NEVER noticed any change in sound. My transmissions don't make any 
detectable sound when the engine/driveline is properly supported by 
their rubber mounts and couplings, but the transmission does shift more 
smoothly - especially in cold weather.


Marshall
 



Re: [MBZ] Seat broke

2006-04-07 Thread Luther Gulseth
I don't know if it makes that much difference, but J.B. doesn't heat the spring 
like a MIG will.

~
~This is substantially what I have just done, except that there was no
~JB about the welding.  I would never expect the repair to hold if the
~spring was merely welded back together.  The key is the splint.
~
~But we'll see how long it holds up.  The SDL gets driven a lot and
~we're planning to keep it indefinitely.  I can feel the repair from
~below, so I can keep tabs on it.
~
~-- Jim
~
~



-- 
Luther KB5QHU 
Alma, Ark 
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi) 
'82 300CD (159,222 kmi) 
'82 300D (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work



Re: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk

2006-04-07 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
w115 rusty trunk repair the right way is a nightmare.  I'm still working on my 
trunk repair now for 3-4 months.  Only several hours per week and being a 
perfectionist.  I left some posts on my progress several months ago.  Well 
anyway I purchased the trunck floor new for $180 plus $70 for shipping from 
KK.  Drilling out the hundredes of spot welds is no fun.  Fuel tank willa lso 
have to come off.  Left side of trunk floor doesn't appear to be available so I 
am fabricating this.   Need a bead roller.  Waiting for custom die to be made 
to duplicate bead exactly.
  Dimitri
  73 220D

Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  POR15 should be your new best friend. Check out their website, they have a 
variety of good stuff over there. You could either just glob the paint on if 
the holes are really tiny and the structure of the metal is not compromised or 
use it with some fiberglass matte to build up strength. They also make a putty 
version of the stuff for filling larger areas.
I used it to seal a snowmobile gas tank a couple years ago and its been just 
great. I also used it on a lawnmower deck last spring. I haven't mowed with 
that yet but after a winter of sitting out in the snow none of the rust has 
come back. I just wirebrushed the worst of the rust off, use the 2 treatment 
chemicals and just brushed on the paint.
Anywhere its going to be exposed to sunlight you need to topcoat but in a trunk 
you'd be okay.

Be aware also that most normal primer is porus so rust will develop under it 
just as fast or faster than baremetal.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 19:47:48 -0700
From: redghost Subject: [MBZ] Rust in the trunk To: Mercedes list 
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

Jim Cathey is my new best friend. Curse Jim.

When he came over a few weeks ago, he was nice enough to want to check 
Gump's trunk. We found that there was a lake under the rubber and 
trunk liner. Lots of rusty looking stuff. Thought I would wait until 
summer when it got hot and dry to tackle that.

Then I decided I ought to look at it further, so today I pulled the 
liner out and sopped up the water. Really nasty looking rust staining 
everywhere. Out comes the wire wheel and away I go attacking the 
dynamat like stuff as well as the gooey rubbery coating. All the way 
down to bare painted metal or rust.

Found a Bunch of pin holes as well as a few larger, though none bigger 
than a dime. There is a largish black plastic hose that runs from 
starboard to port in a channel. Guess where the most rust through is. 
YEP! right there it is mostly rusted all the way through and the tanks 
seems to just hang from a few paper thin bits of metal.

First question -

What is the best or quickest method to plug the little holes? I have 
already used the rust to black primer spray and thought about maybe 
Bondo or an epoxy coating, then some bedliner for protection.

Second question -

How in creation do I deal with the rusted through bit to join the stern 
back to the rest of the car? Can I have a panel made with the channel 
and weld that in? It would cover the access to the tank sender


--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz



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Re: [MBZ] DieselPurge

2006-04-07 Thread Christopher McCann
That's a diesel colonic, not a diesel purge!
  
  Chris

Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  On 4/7/06, Marshall Booth  wrote:

 Christopher McCann wrote:
  Indeed.
 
And I do believe that you are to manually manipulate your
 throttle  linkage from medium to fast and a little slow while Purging...it
 is not  to be done idling the whole time, correct? Shouldn't take more than
 15  minutes to burn through that bottle, no?

 It usually takes me 15-20 minutes to run a can of Diesel Purge thru one
 of my cars. I warm the engine up first and run the engine at different
 speeds while it's being fueled with the DP.

 Marshall


Why not mount a bottle or jar under the hood (duct tape to the rescue!) as a
temporary fuel tank and then drive around until it's gone?  I would think
the beneficial effects of Purging would only be enhanced by a simultanous
Italian tuneup.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

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Subject: [MBZ] W126 Sunroof Wind noise.
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Hi,

Had my sunroof rails and other assorted parts on my sunroof replaced and
had the whole thing re-aligned.  Works nice and crisp now, except.when
closed and at highway speeds (75mph +) something starts to whistle (Leak
air?) in the S/R.   When I crack the window openthe noise/whistling
goes away.

Is there a fix, is something not adjusted properly?  Where do I start
looking?

Thanks!

Angelo Giaimo/Fishkill/IBM @ IBMUS
Internet: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(845)894-4296 (tie 533); fax: 892-6235 (tie 532);
2070 Rt. 52; Hopewell Junction, N.Y. 12533





Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

2006-04-07 Thread Loren Faeth
And it is diluted by fuel  Ever drain one?  As I recall, they are made so 
that any oil that gets into the fuel is replaced by fuel.


At 02:07 PM 4/7/2006, you wrote:

 Engine oil lubricating the IP is not true for OM 621 and at least some
 615
 engines.  Does anyone know where the cutoff was between the fuel
 lubricated
 pumps and crankcase oil lubricated pumps?  I think it was mid 70s
 somewhere.

Are you sure about that?  Ones with the red OEL cap are still engine
oil lubricated, but you have to pour the engine oil into them!  They
don't get it automatically from the engine.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

2006-04-07 Thread Loren Faeth

 fill the pump with

engine oil so it would displace any fuel/fuel-oil mix that had migrated
into the oil reservoir.


My point is that if you use fuel that eats seals, these older pumps DO mix 
fuel with the lube oil in the IP, so expect your seals to get eaten.


At 02:28 PM 4/7/2006, you wrote:

Loren Faeth wrote:
 Engine oil lubricating the IP is not true for OM 621 and at least some 615
 engines.  Does anyone know where the cutoff was between the fuel 
lubricated
 pumps and crankcase oil lubricated pumps?  I think it was mid 70s 
somewhere.


 My 66 engines are fuel lubricated.  My 81 240D is engine lubed.

All Bosch injection pumps in Mercedes diesels are lubricated with engine
oil - NOT fuel. The early ones (OM615/616 thru 1976) were NOT connected
to the engine lubrication system, the later ones were connected, but
engine oil was the lubricant in all of them.

One of the maintenance points (job 800 '72-'80 Maintenance Manual) on
the early ones was to unscrew the check plug and fill the pump with
engine oil so it would displace any fuel/fuel-oil mix that had migrated
into the oil reservoir.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

2006-04-07 Thread John Berryman


On Apr 7, 2006, at 2:53 PM, Loren Faeth wrote:


My 66 engines are fuel lubricated.  My 81 240D is engine lubed.

Loren


	Aren't your earlier engines equipped with a pump that periodically  
needs to be filled with motor oil?


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

2006-04-07 Thread Christopher McCann
and in the newer pumps (617  603 engines), lubed by engine oil  only - is 
there rubber to be eaten by fuels like  biodiesel?
  
  Chris 

Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:   fill the pump with
engine oil so it would displace any fuel/fuel-oil mix that had migrated
into the oil reservoir.

My point is that if you use fuel that eats seals, these older pumps DO mix 
fuel with the lube oil in the IP, so expect your seals to get eaten.

At 02:28 PM 4/7/2006, you wrote:
Loren Faeth wrote:
  Engine oil lubricating the IP is not true for OM 621 and at least some 615
  engines.  Does anyone know where the cutoff was between the fuel 
 lubricated
  pumps and crankcase oil lubricated pumps?  I think it was mid 70s 
 somewhere.
 
  My 66 engines are fuel lubricated.  My 81 240D is engine lubed.

All Bosch injection pumps in Mercedes diesels are lubricated with engine
oil - NOT fuel. The early ones (OM615/616 thru 1976) were NOT connected
to the engine lubrication system, the later ones were connected, but
engine oil was the lubricant in all of them.

One of the maintenance points (job 800 '72-'80 Maintenance Manual) on
the early ones was to unscrew the check plug and fill the pump with
engine oil so it would displace any fuel/fuel-oil mix that had migrated
into the oil reservoir.

Marshall
--
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

-
Blab-away for as little as 1¢/min. Make  PC-to-Phone Calls using Yahoo! 
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From: Tom Scordato [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] DieselPurge
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Takes about an hour to run two cans.
From getting all the stuff together and putting everything away.

it works.

Regards Tom
- Original Message - 
From: LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 12:41 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] DieselPurge


I ran it on slow idle for most of the time, but did bump it up to fast idle
 for about five minutes in the middle of the procedure.

 On 4/7/06, Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Indeed.

   And I do believe that you are to manually manipulate your
 throttle  linkage from medium to fast and a little slow while 
 Purging...it
 is not  to be done idling the whole time, correct? Shouldn't take more 
 than
 15  minutes to burn through that bottle, no?

   Chris




 --
 There're always enemies, George. Jesus had 

Re: [MBZ] M1 ATF Change - Was - DieselPurge

2006-04-07 Thread Tom Scordato

Has anyone else experienced this (with the ATF change) or is it my

imagination/wishful thinking?



Imagination but who cares.  Now you can go much longer between ATF changes! 
/Tom
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 1:51 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] M1 ATF Change - Was - DieselPurge



Jim wrote (about Diesel Purge) -  It was definitely more quiet after

Speaking of becoming quieter, I changed the ATF and filter early this week
(on the '91 300D) and could swear the car is quieter!

While I expect this when changing from fossil to synthetic engine oil, the
change in sound level from fossil ATF to M1 ATF was unexpected.

Has anyone else experienced this (with the ATF change) or is it my
imagination/wishful thinking?

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 11:32 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] DieselPurge




In a message dated 4/7/2006 6:22:10 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

And I do  believe that you are to manually manipulate your throttle
linkage
from  medium to fast and a little slow while Purging...it is not  to be
done
idling the whole time, correct? Shouldn't take more than 15  minutes to
burn
through that bottle, no?



For maximum cleaning effect, the fuel return line should be routed back 
to
the purge container and the fluid recycled until gone.  This took me 
about

45
minutes, mostly at idle.

Watch the level and don't let it run completely dry!  Hard starting  will
ensue.

I set up my video camera to listen to the engine before, during, and
after
the purge.  It was definitely more quiet after!

Regards,

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles
98 ML 320, 141 K  miles

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Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

2006-04-07 Thread Loren Faeth

Delivery valve o-rings

At 03:05 PM 4/7/2006, you wrote:
and in the newer pumps (617  603 engines), lubed by engine oil  only - is 
there rubber to be eaten by fuels like  biodiesel?


  Chris

Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:   fill the pump with
engine oil so it would displace any fuel/fuel-oil mix that had migrated
into the oil reservoir.

My point is that if you use fuel that eats seals, these older pumps DO mix
fuel with the lube oil in the IP, so expect your seals to get eaten.

At 02:28 PM 4/7/2006, you wrote:
Loren Faeth wrote:
  Engine oil lubricating the IP is not true for OM 621 and at least 
some 615

  engines.  Does anyone know where the cutoff was between the fuel
 lubricated
  pumps and crankcase oil lubricated pumps?  I think it was mid 70s
 somewhere.
 
  My 66 engines are fuel lubricated.  My 81 240D is engine lubed.

All Bosch injection pumps in Mercedes diesels are lubricated with engine
oil - NOT fuel. The early ones (OM615/616 thru 1976) were NOT connected
to the engine lubrication system, the later ones were connected, but
engine oil was the lubricant in all of them.

One of the maintenance points (job 800 '72-'80 Maintenance Manual) on
the early ones was to unscrew the check plug and fill the pump with
engine oil so it would displace any fuel/fuel-oil mix that had migrated
into the oil reservoir.

Marshall
--
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

-
Blab-away for as little as 1¢/min. Make  PC-to-Phone Calls using Yahoo! 
Messenger with Voice.

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Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

2006-04-07 Thread Marshall Booth
Fuel doesn't EAT most seals. Older (those used at least thru the mid 
'80s) seals swell when fuel with sulfur is used and when that fuel is 
replaced with fuel that doesn't have sulfur in it, the seals shrink back 
toward their original size. BUT, if they are 10+ years old, they are 
likely to crack/leak. Blame whatever you'd like, but it's the age and 
condition of the seals, NOT the low sulfur fuel that's the problem. Most 
injection pump delivery valve O rings don't fail, but SOME will (only 
one of the 7 OM60x injection pumps I've owned have leaked - even fewer 
OM61x pumps seem to leak). I think it depends on how much contact the 
O ring seals have with the fuel - some really have minimal or NO 
contact as the metal/metal surfaces form a complete seal so the O ring 
never has any contact with the sulfur in the fuel. In other cases, the 
O rings are bathed in fuel and when the sulfur is removed, they shrink 
and leak. The O rings that have been available for more than a decade 
don't seem to have this problem.


There were similar problems that occurred when engines run on older 
conventional oil blends were changed to synthetic oil. Mobil solved the 
problem by adding some group V oil that compensated for the removal of 
the seal swelling properties of the older conventional oil. That's why 
changing to Mobil 1 oil USUALLY results in slight to modest oil seal 
leaks being slowed or cured.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] W126 Sunroof Wind noise.

2006-04-07 Thread Marshall Booth

ANGELO GIAIMO wrote:

Hi,

Had my sunroof rails and other assorted parts on my sunroof replaced and
had the whole thing re-aligned.  Works nice and crisp now, except.when
closed and at highway speeds (75mph +) something starts to whistle (Leak
air?) in the S/R.   When I crack the window openthe noise/whistling
goes away.

Is there a fix, is something not adjusted properly?  Where do I start
looking?


The roof won't whistle when properly aligned. It's a matter of precise 
positioning.


http://mb.braingears.com/126_DISC1/program/Chassis/77-110.pdf

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] W126 Sunroof Wind noise.

2006-04-07 Thread Jim Cathey

Is there a fix, is something not adjusted properly?  Where do I start
looking?


Sounds like it's either not adjusted properly, or one of the new
seals isn't sealing right.  You can try the 'dollar bill' test:
close it on a dollar bill and see how tightly it's gripped.  On
all sides.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

2006-04-07 Thread Jim Cathey
My point is that if you use fuel that eats seals, these older pumps DO 
mix

fuel with the lube oil in the IP, so expect your seals to get eaten.


As do the newer ones, but the volume of oil to dilute is larger.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] M1 ATF Change - Was - DieselPurge

2006-04-07 Thread Marshall Booth

Tom Scordato wrote:

Has anyone else experienced this (with the ATF change) or is it my

imagination/wishful thinking?



Imagination but who cares.  Now you can go much longer between ATF changes! 


You must NOT push the change interval when using Mobil 1 ATF. You need 
to change the fluid/filter at about the same interval as part of the 
purpose of the ATF/filter change is to remove the friction material 
debris (that will clog the filter). Even conventional ATF is seldom 
worn out when a change is required although it may be damaged or 
contaminated.


The advantage of M-1 ATF is the much smoother shifting (and resulting 
longer friction material life) and more viscosity consistency with 
respect to temperature.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

2006-04-07 Thread Loren Faeth
Yes, it is supposed to be topped up with motor oil, but if you drain it at 
the top up intervals, you will find the lube is mostly fuel.  Most of them 
never saw oil after they left the factory, or at least after the OE sold 
them.  They are capable of running  tens or hundreds of thousands of miles 
without addition of motor oil, because the fuel displaces the oil and they 
are fuel lubed then.  We are splitting hairs here.  Theory, vs. real world. 
Technically it is oil lubed, but in practice, there is a lot of fuel in 
there.  It is designed so that if the oil gets low, the chamber is filled 
with fuel.


When ever I serviced the vacuum governed pump. i drained all the stuff in 
the IP case, then filled motor oil.


Yes, if the jobs are followed religiously, and when they were new, maybe 
most of the lube is oil, but fuel does get in there, and if it is a type 
that eats seals, you could loose the main seal of a 30 yr old pump, and 
then very likely ruin the pump.  now that they are all 30-40 years old, 
they are worn, and more fuel mixes with the oil.


I am only wanting to put out a word of warning about putting snake oil in 
the tank.  Do it as you wish guys, but be aware if you have a vacuum 
governed pump, don't be shocked if you have IP problems.  Chris, since your 
AKP-Wagon is in sacrificial status, have a blast with anything that will go 
into the tank.


In practice, the seal may NEVER fail, with any kind of homebrew.  There is 
also a diaphragm in the vacuum governor that could be affected by 
non-standard fuels.  IN theory, yes, fuel never touches the diaphragm.  But 
every one I have been into has petroleum products of some form in the 
diaphragm chamber.


ALL Bosch inline pumps have o-rings on the delivery valve body, even if it 
is on a Case tractor.


Have fun experimenting, but don't be shocked if your pump fails.  The 
mechanically governed pumps are less likely to have a fuel -induced 
problem, because of the active motor oil lube system


At 03:00 PM 4/7/2006, you wrote:


On Apr 7, 2006, at 2:53 PM, Loren Faeth wrote:

 My 66 engines are fuel lubricated.  My 81 240D is engine lubed.

 Loren

Aren't your earlier engines equipped with a pump that periodically
needs to be filled with motor oil?

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

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Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

2006-04-07 Thread Loren Faeth
I used eat as a figurative term.  Age, oxidation, and exposure to 
deleterious compounds are the main causes of o-ring and seal failure 
(breakdown of polymer chains).  Technically, these parts don't fail  they 
simply suffer from breakdown of the polymer chains.   This leads to the 
part to fail to function as designed, but the part does not fail.  Again, 
we are splitting hairs, between theory, science, and what happens in spite 
of theory and science.


At 03:47 PM 4/7/2006, you wrote:

Fuel doesn't EAT most seals. Older (those used at least thru the mid
'80s) seals swell when fuel with sulfur is used and when that fuel is
replaced with fuel that doesn't have sulfur in it, the seals shrink back
toward their original size. BUT, if they are 10+ years old, they are
likely to crack/leak. Blame whatever you'd like, but it's the age and
condition of the seals, NOT the low sulfur fuel that's the problem. Most
injection pump delivery valve O rings don't fail, but SOME will (only
one of the 7 OM60x injection pumps I've owned have leaked - even fewer
OM61x pumps seem to leak). I think it depends on how much contact the
O ring seals have with the fuel - some really have minimal or NO
contact as the metal/metal surfaces form a complete seal so the O ring
never has any contact with the sulfur in the fuel. In other cases, the
O rings are bathed in fuel and when the sulfur is removed, they shrink
and leak. The O rings that have been available for more than a decade
don't seem to have this problem.

There were similar problems that occurred when engines run on older
conventional oil blends were changed to synthetic oil. Mobil solved the
problem by adding some group V oil that compensated for the removal of
the seal swelling properties of the older conventional oil. That's why
changing to Mobil 1 oil USUALLY results in slight to modest oil seal
leaks being slowed or cured.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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[MBZ] Hose identification and source needed! Boost Pressure Control Valve Hose?

2006-04-07 Thread ANGELO GIAIMO

I found a cracked/broken/split hose on my 1990 350SDL I'm tiring to get a
replacement for.  It runs from the front of the turbo assy to what looks
like an air solenoid sitting directly below the EGR valve, in an L shape, 3
X 1 inches. ID about 1/4 inch.   If I look at procedure 09-150, Removal
and Installation of turbocharger, the dwg by step #6 shows the air
solenoid right below the EGR valve. It's also shown plainly on the 1'st
page of 09-050, Function of turbocharger, connected to the Boost Pressure
control valve.  My dealer, the web and Rusty have not been able to identify
it; just say I should just use a piece of generic hose.

Anyone got any ideas of what it's properly called, or a P/N so I can order
one, or should I just grab the pieces and head for McParts?

Thanks,

Angelo Giaimo/Fishkill/IBM @ IBMUS
Internet: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(845)894-4296 (tie 533); fax: 892-6235 (tie 532);
2070 Rt. 52; Hopewell Junction, N.Y. 12533





Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

2006-04-07 Thread Christopher McCann
Actually, the AKP-Wagen was sold. What I am getting at, as you  intuited, is 
biodiesel use, but in the 300SD and 300TD, not the sold  W115 240D. I'm 
assuming, then, that pumps on a 617 and 603 are  mechanically governed and not 
vacuum goverened? I do understand the  difference in how they are lubed.
  Sorry for another stupid question...
  
  CM
  
  

Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Yes, it is supposed to be topped up 
with motor oil, but if you drain it at 
the top up intervals, you will find the lube is mostly fuel.  Most of them 
never saw oil after they left the factory, or at least after the OE sold 
them.  They are capable of running  tens or hundreds of thousands of miles 
without addition of motor oil, because the fuel displaces the oil and they 
are fuel lubed then.  We are splitting hairs here.  Theory, vs. real world. 
Technically it is oil lubed, but in practice, there is a lot of fuel in 
there.  It is designed so that if the oil gets low, the chamber is filled 
with fuel.

When ever I serviced the vacuum governed pump. i drained all the stuff in 
the IP case, then filled motor oil.

Yes, if the jobs are followed religiously, and when they were new, maybe 
most of the lube is oil, but fuel does get in there, and if it is a type 
that eats seals, you could loose the main seal of a 30 yr old pump, and 
then very likely ruin the pump.  now that they are all 30-40 years old, 
they are worn, and more fuel mixes with the oil.

I am only wanting to put out a word of warning about putting snake oil in 
the tank.  Do it as you wish guys, but be aware if you have a vacuum 
governed pump, don't be shocked if you have IP problems.  Chris, since your 
AKP-Wagon is in sacrificial status, have a blast with anything that will go 
into the tank.

In practice, the seal may NEVER fail, with any kind of homebrew.  There is 
also a diaphragm in the vacuum governor that could be affected by 
non-standard fuels.  IN theory, yes, fuel never touches the diaphragm.  But 
every one I have been into has petroleum products of some form in the 
diaphragm chamber.

ALL Bosch inline pumps have o-rings on the delivery valve body, even if it 
is on a Case tractor.

Have fun experimenting, but don't be shocked if your pump fails.  The 
mechanically governed pumps are less likely to have a fuel -induced 
problem, because of the active motor oil lube system

At 03:00 PM 4/7/2006, you wrote:

On Apr 7, 2006, at 2:53 PM, Loren Faeth wrote:

  My 66 engines are fuel lubricated.  My 81 240D is engine lubed.
 
  Loren

 Aren't your earlier engines equipped with a pump that periodically
needs to be filled with motor oil?

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

-
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Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

2006-04-07 Thread Marshall Booth

Christopher McCann wrote:

Actually, the AKP-Wagen was sold. What I am getting at, as you  intuited, is 
biodiesel use, but in the 300SD and 300TD, not the sold  W115 240D. I'm 
assuming, then, that pumps on a 617 and 603 are  mechanically governed and not 
vacuum goverened? I do understand the  difference in how they are lubed.
  Sorry for another stupid question...


ALL of the Bosch inline pumps are expected to be lubricated with engine 
oil! Apparently SOME owners didn't know this (there is of course the 
suggestion that the maintenance booklet be read). I guess there are 
people that don't think you need to add or change engine oil too!


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] M1 ATF Change - Was - DieselPurge

2006-04-07 Thread l02turner

what's that you say  --  WHAT   I SAID, WHAT'S THAT YOU SAY, SONNY?

Damn kids, always playing around ...
;-)

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 3:34 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] M1 ATF Change - Was - DieselPurge



Maybe some dripped down into your ears when you were under there doing
the fluid drain?  That could make things quieter!

--R

Marshall Booth wrote:


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Jim wrote (about Diesel Purge) -  It was definitely more quiet 
after


Speaking of becoming quieter, I changed the ATF and filter early this 
week

(on the '91 300D) and could swear the car is quieter!

While I expect this when changing from fossil to synthetic engine oil, 
the

change in sound level from fossil ATF to M1 ATF was unexpected.

Has anyone else experienced this (with the ATF change) or is it my
imagination/wishful thinking?




I've NEVER noticed any change in sound. My transmissions don't make any
detectable sound when the engine/driveline is properly supported by
their rubber mounts and couplings, but the transmission does shift more
smoothly - especially in cold weather.

Marshall



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Re: [MBZ] W126 Sunroof Wind noise.

2006-04-07 Thread Peter T . Arnold
Need this work done on my 300SDL.  Did you use Indy or Dealership? MAy
I pry and ask the cost, I understand the Angles are about $425 for
the set.


--

Regards,

Peter T. Arnold

1987 300SDL  240KMI Sunroof FUBAR
1995 F-250 PowerChoke  190Kmi
1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that
is!On Fri, 7 Apr 2006 15:51:50 -0400, you wrote:


Hi,

Had my sunroof rails and other assorted parts on my sunroof replaced and
had the whole thing re-aligned.  Works nice and crisp now, except.when
closed and at highway speeds (75mph +) something starts to whistle (Leak
air?) in the S/R.   When I crack the window openthe noise/whistling
goes away.

Is there a fix, is something not adjusted properly?  Where do I start
looking?

Thanks!

Angelo Giaimo/Fishkill/IBM @ IBMUS
Internet: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(845)894-4296 (tie 533); fax: 892-6235 (tie 532);
2070 Rt. 52; Hopewell Junction, N.Y. 12533



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Re: [MBZ] M1 ATF Change - Was - DieselPurge

2006-04-07 Thread John Berryman


On Apr 7, 2006, at 5:03 PM, Marshall Booth wrote:


You must NOT push the change interval when using Mobil 1 ATF. You need
to change the fluid/filter at about the same interval as part of the
purpose of the ATF/filter change is to remove the friction material
debris (that will clog the filter). Even conventional ATF is seldom
worn out when a change is required although it may be damaged or
contaminated.

The advantage of M-1 ATF is the much smoother shifting (and resulting
longer friction material life) and more viscosity consistency with
respect to temperature.

Marshall


	It would be cost effective to save the fluid and change the filter.  
One of the reasons for using M1 ATF (or Amsoil in my case) is to  
reduce friction/wear. So theoretically there should be considerably  
less particles in the fluid. They both make claims of extended drain  
intervals. Once again, analysis of the fluid will tell all and should  
govern when fluid should be changed.

I plan on running our 190D to 45,000 miles and send in a sample.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



[MBZ] Hood Shield Adhesive - need to remove residue of old one - for 91 300D Turbo 2.5

2006-04-07 Thread l02turner
My new  hood/heat pad arrived today and I spent most of 2 hours trying to 
get the remains of the old pad off so I can glue the new one into place.


While much of the foam is gone now, there's still some adhesive left, as 
well as some very short, hard foam.


Is there something that'll take the remainder off?  I've tried an Adhesive 
Remover we sell (worked pretty well but there;s residue), Acetone (did very 
little) and blasted with high prrssure water to get rid of the bits and 
pieces (worked) - I used a large weave scotch brite like pad with a handle 
attached -


But there;s still some hard stuff (that I may leave) - and some foam which I 
believe needs to come off.


Any suggestions?

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info 






Re: [MBZ] M1 ATF Change - Was - DieselPurge

2006-04-07 Thread Marshall Booth

John Berryman wrote:


	It would be cost effective to save the fluid and change the filter.  
One of the reasons for using M1 ATF (or Amsoil in my case) is to  
reduce friction/wear. So theoretically there should be considerably  
less particles in the fluid. They both make claims of extended drain  
intervals. Once again, analysis of the fluid will tell all and should  
govern when fluid should be changed.

I plan on running our 190D to 45,000 miles and send in a sample.


I'll be eager to see how things work for you. I had found that shift 
quality started to deteriorate at 20-25kmi using conventional ATF and at 
about 30-35kmi using Mobil 1.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] 190D, fan clutch and other 190 questions

2006-04-07 Thread OK Don
You're going to have a hard time getting that pot of boiling water
above 100 -- -- it takes a pressurized environment to get it above 100
- like in an engine cooling system.

 I will say 105, without checking a manual. Throw it in a pot of
 water with a thermometer as if it were a thermostat hook your trusty
 multimeter to it and see where it shows 0 resistance while it heats up.

 Johnny B.
 I Mac Therefore I am

OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go



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