Re: [MBZ] W123 sideshafts

2010-04-07 Thread Peter Merle
Where do I find DaveM website for dealer prices?
Cheers
Peter
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Re: [MBZ] W123 sideshafts

2010-04-06 Thread Peter Merle
Yep its South Africa - was wondering if VW beetle OM split boots would work?

Anyone coming to the soccer world cup here in June
Peter

On 6 April 2010 06:05, Craig McCluskey diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

 On Mon, 5 Apr 2010 22:41:03 -0500 OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

  Ah - forgot that.
 
  On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 10:11 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
 
   Easy to say in the US, but I believe Peter is in the land of OZ, so
   it is not so simple.

 Actually, I think he's in South Africa, not Australia.


 Craig

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Re: [MBZ] W123 sideshafts

2010-04-06 Thread Peter Merle
What does a kit cost back in the US?
Peter

On 6 April 2010 18:44, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 
meade.m.dil...@navy.mil wrote:

 Someone did the boot/metal can replacement without the special press for
 the metal can, I think they managed with vice grips, hammer, pliers,
 etc.  Order three or four of the real MB kits, apply some shade-tree
 ingenuity and I'll bet you can figure it out.

 -Max

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
 [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Peter Merle
 Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 12:11 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 sideshafts

 Yep its South Africa - was wondering if VW beetle OM split boots would
 work?

 Anyone coming to the soccer world cup here in June Peter

 On 6 April 2010 06:05, Craig McCluskey diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

  On Mon, 5 Apr 2010 22:41:03 -0500 OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:
 
   Ah - forgot that.
  
   On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 10:11 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
 wrote:
  
Easy to say in the US, but I believe Peter is in the land of OZ,
so it is not so simple.
 
  Actually, I think he's in South Africa, not Australia.
 
 
  Craig
 
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[MBZ] W123 sideshafts

2010-04-05 Thread Peter Merle
Besides the complicated boot replacement according to the book is there a
simplified solution. A friend has had two boot failures in quick succession
and up to no we have just replaced entire shaft from a scrap yard  but
supply is limited.  Does the joint get lubricated from the diff?
Peter
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[MBZ] OM617 using water / oil in water

2010-03-07 Thread Peter Merle
A friend of mine has an Om617 in a Gwagen that he wants to sell .
Unfortunately it uses water and oil appears in coolant. Now this engine was
running well untill cam chain broke. Engine was repaired at great expense (
~$5000 ) but has used water ever since. Now he has taken head off the engine
and all appears OK - not pitting , no cracks visible. I would be interested
in the head if it proves to be sound but the question is how to tell without
doing a pressure test. Oh another thing - 3 of the cyl head stretch bolts
nearest the ip show signs of heat damage - blue discoloration - never heard
of that one before !
Any comments
PEter
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[MBZ] Fitting a 240D W123 engine in to W115

2010-01-04 Thread Peter Merle
I'm sure it can be done with a little surgery , I have a friend that has a
toasted 240D in a W115 chassis and now wants to replace it with a W123 240D
engine. I know the oil filter housing from the W123 will not fit - but can
one transfer the oil filter unit from the broken engine to the new one? Any
other issues
PEter
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[MBZ] Injector Nozzles

2010-01-01 Thread Peter Merle
HAve any of you used Monark injector nozzles ? I wonder ho wthey
compaed to the Indian made Bosch's .
Peter

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[MBZ] Viscous fan coupler

2009-12-06 Thread Peter Merle
I am attempting to repair my OM603 fan coupler - it unit does not appear
to have more  resistance when hot ( 90deg + ) hot or with control pin (
under the bi-mettalic strip ) removed. How does one inject for silicone
fluid into the unit and how does one know when its enough?
PEter
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Re: [MBZ] Febi Parts

2009-10-25 Thread Peter Merle
Febi Bilstein are not related at all to the Bilstein comapany that makes
shockabsorbers. Their website is www.febi.de. Have used their branded parts
and they are very good often from the OEM supplier.
Peter
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Re: [MBZ] Removing, was: Balancing a drive shaft, etc.

2009-09-27 Thread Peter Merle
diese seite zu gelenkw - translates to this side towards driveshaft.
Getriebe is gearbox, kw has nothing whatsoever to do with power in this
context
Peter

2009/9/27 OK Don okd...@gmail.com

 My thanks to all - I'll install it with the writing towards the shaft ---

 On Sat, Sep 26, 2009 at 10:15 PM, Craig McCluskey diese...@pisquared.net
 wrote:

  On Sat, 26 Sep 2009 19:57:50 -0500 OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:
 
   THe only clues I see are the following molded into one side of the disk
   - DIESE SEITE Z. GELENKW  I'm guessing that it translates into This
   side to ?
  
   The on-line translators give GELENKW as the English equalivilent, as
 I
   suspected they would.
 
  http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate_txt says Gelenkwelle is
  Drive Shaft. (It also says driveshaft is Getriebewelle, but that's
 a
  different story.)
 
  Anyway, DIESE SEITE Z. GELENKW, means, This side toward driveshaft.
 
 
  Craig
 
 --
 OK Don
 CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
 distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
 others.
 The Devil's Dictionary
 Ambrose Bierce
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Re: [MBZ] Oil cooler bypass

2009-09-08 Thread Peter Merle
The 240D's in S Africa did not come with oil coolers, only 300D ( non turbo
)
So I'm sure its quite same to run without the cooler
Peter

2009/9/8 Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com

 Assuming this repair makes the massive oil leak quit I probably will switch
 to Mobil 1 again, at least for the winter. This car was wicked hard to start
 in the cold last winter. Wasn't so bad back when I used Mobil 1...
 If the massive oil leak has quit I'll probably even analyze the oil and see
 how long it can go on a change with mostly highway driving.

 Based on Kaleb saying its all turbo cars hes seen broke I'll probably run
 it as is, at least for now. Once the oil cooler fairy comes through I'll fix
 it right.

 -Curt

 Date: Mon, 07 Sep 2009 18:07:13 -0400
 From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil cooler bypass
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID: 4aa58411.9070...@voyager.net
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

 Curt Raymond wrote:
  So lets go over this oil cooler importance again.
 
 
 If I remember correctly Kaleb's position is that lack of an oil cooler
 will ruin the car post haste. But I seem to also remember his data
 being from turbo cars... Mine is a 240D, you wanna back that one up
 Kaleb?
 
  My car has been sitting with my Indy for a week
 while Kaleb scrounges around Okieland for a good oil cooler of which he
 supposedly has plenty.
 
  Prices on these are all over the map but I'm at the point where I just
 want my car back.
  So decisions:
 
  1. Just get the car and drive it. If the engine blows up who cares it was
 a $400 car.
 
  B. Wait on Kaleb, support the list, have a warm glow.
 
  III. Order from Potomac German.

 4. Run mobil one and assume it can't possibly get hot enough to break down?
 I suspect those dead Okie cars had 10W40 or 15W40 in them that turned into
 10W
 or 15W when the viscosity extenders got cooked out of the oil.



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Re: [MBZ] bye bye Marshall

2009-08-13 Thread Peter Merle
When did the list actually start? I have been on /off over many years .
Marshall always helped out and made sense of many things than perflexed one
Peter

2009/8/13 Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net

 But we have you now.

 --R

 Gary Hurst wrote:

 marshall is historically the only reason this list exists.  the whole
 mbz.org list system (apart from banned) was contingent upon marshall's
 agreed participation.  had marhall said no, the plan was to never start
 the diesel list.

 just a bit of old school trivia for those of you who might still care

  =


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Re: [MBZ] Transmission #

2009-08-09 Thread Peter Merle
yes

2009/8/9 LarryT l02tur...@comcast.net

 Hi Gang -
My transmission # is 722418 02 978225  - Does that mean I have
 a 722.4 transmission?

 Thanks to all -
 LarryT
 91 300D


 Demand that any Health care reform
 that gets passed, must force members
 of the Legislative, Judicial  Executive
 Branches of government to be included
 as well!
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[MBZ] hole in block 240D

2009-06-02 Thread Peter Merle
Bought a Gwagen with an additional blown 240D engine , big end failure at #1
which threw a rod and punched a hole in block . Was wondering if the block
is repairable? Main bearing foundations not affected  . I don't want it  but
was hoping someone might be able to use it - or do I sell it for metal
content. #1 crankpin was 40 thou smaller than the other 3 ! I guess conrod
ran steel to steel for a while until it let go.
Peter
Capetown
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Re: [MBZ] More from Chrysler

2009-05-01 Thread Peter Merle
So Mercedes Lost another wack of money through Chrysler. Here in South
Africa Mercedes currently markets and distributes Chrysler products - I
wonder what happens now ?
Peter


2009/4/29 Tom Hargrave tharg...@hiwaay.net

 UAW will have 55%, FIAT will start with less than 20% but will eventually
 hold 35%, The lien holders have agreed to walk away from 6.9B in debt with
 2B in cash in hand, The Government will hold a stake (probably 10%) and the
 rest will be Cebrus. Daimler has already surrendered their 19.9% to Cebrus
 
 agreed to pay 600M to the pension fund over the next few years.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 http://www.kegkits.com/JABF/
 256-656-1924 http://www.kegkits.com/JABF/%0A256-656-1924


 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Allan Streib
 Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 3:27 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] More from Chrysler

 What I heard was that the UAW will have a 55% stake, Fiat 35%, and the
 Government 10%.  What happens to all the current shareholders I don't know.



 On Wed, 29 Apr 2009 16:09 -0400, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
  Bloomberg reports that according to people with direct knowledge of the
  situation, President Obama aims to announce a Chrysler bankruptcy
  tomorrow and
  say a Chrysler-Fiat alliance would be created in bankruptcy.
  :theflyonthewall.com
 
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[MBZ] OIl Analysis - High Copper and Iron

2009-04-25 Thread Peter Merle
Did my first oil analysis on my Om617 300D. This engine I overhauled some 5
years and 8 km ago ( I assembled all myself ) . After initial fill its
run on Mobil 1 only . Oil analysis came up with high Copper - @ 29 ppm and
Iron @ 71 ppm . Lab report said that this could possibly be pump wear (
Injector or oil - not sure ) . Oil had only done 1800 km since oil change .
Any suggestions where to go from here. I'm keen to change to Dino oil as the
oil leaks are driving me mad! ( My other 3 cars were all OK - OM617 *2 and
Om603 - they are all on Dino oil )
Peter
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Re: [MBZ] OIl Analysis - High Copper and Iron

2009-04-25 Thread Peter Merle
The car is well run in at 5miles!  I ran  dino in it for about 3000
miles. BTW the OEM oil filter is a bypass filter , the top 2/3 of the filter
is the bypass section , the lower section is full flow. I'm really concerned
about the Copper and Iron wear components - BTW my other OM617 engine tested
has only done about 3000miles since rebuild and its Copper is 13 ppm and
Iron 33 ppm, so its not normal initial wear metal problem I have on my
5miler.
Peter



2009/4/25 Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com

 80,000 km is about 50,000 miles? Its possible the engine is still breaking
 in, how long was the original fill oil in the engine?

 How bad are the oil leaks? My 190D (OM601) has Mobil 1 5w40 and leaks a
 quart of oil in about 1,500 miles (so say 1 liter in ~2,400km) and is still
 improving. If you have more serious leaks might I suggest fixing them?

 I use Mobil 1 because I drive a lot and this way I only need to change the
 oil 2 or 3 times a year @ 15,000 mile intervals which my analysis supports.

 Marshall said that without a bypass oil filter you couldn't really do long
 change intervals on a 617 engine because the soot loading would get too high
 and I believe that. In my 240D I run Delvac 1300 because of that. Of course
 that car leaks a quart in ~200 miles because of bad oil cooler lines...

 -Curt

 Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 17:00:08 +0200
 From: Peter Merle merle.pe...@gmail.com
 Subject: [MBZ] OIl Analysis - High Copper and Iron
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID:
 2ea1fde20904250800vd534288ib0f291c680318...@mail.gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

 Did my first oil analysis on my Om617 300D. This engine I overhauled some 5
 years and 8 km ago ( I assembled all myself ) . After initial fill its
 run on Mobil 1 only . Oil analysis came up with high Copper - @ 29 ppm and
 Iron @ 71 ppm . Lab report said that this could possibly be pump wear (
 Injector or oil - not sure ) . Oil had only done 1800 km since oil change .
 Any suggestions where to go from here. I'm keen to change to Dino oil as
 the
 oil leaks are driving me mad! ( My other 3 cars were all OK - OM617 *2 and
 Om603 - they are all on Dino oil )
 Peter
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[MBZ] 280SE W126

2009-03-24 Thread Peter Merle
After having lived on MB diesels ranging from the 180D ponton to the W124
300D I will probably take the plunge and buy a W126 280SE. ( The car is low
mileage 5miles ) . Firstly how does one adapt to not having to wait to
glow before starting ! I might have to see a therapist !  Seriously what
issues are there with the M110 ( euro ) version and the W126 drivetrain.
Thanks
Peter
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Re: [MBZ] 280SE W126

2009-03-24 Thread Peter Merle
2009/3/25 OK Don okd...@gmail.com

 I always considered that time as dedicated to letting the fuel pump get the
 system up to ooperating pressure before starting the car.
 Same sequence as the Diesels - get in, turn key on, curse the buzzer,
 fasten
 seat belt, start the car.

  . Firstly how does one adapt to not having to wait to glow before starting
  !
  --
  OK Don
  W124 Diesels
  KD5NRO



Yes I like that one , its has a similar feeling!
PEter



 
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[MBZ] Got my OM617 running on trolley

2009-02-23 Thread Peter Merle
Check it out - my OM617 ( Car's name Blommie given by previous owner )
running on a stand
need to make a dashboard for it and would like to run it as a generator one
day
Peter


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muPUAyaw1H8
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Re: [MBZ] 300GD

2009-01-16 Thread Peter Merle
617's ran up to 1990 in the G's ( 460 series )  . There are some 300GD 463's
in the USA. For the best english language  G forum go to

http://www.pointedthree.com/disc/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=57
Peter


2009/1/16 Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net

 Would this have a 60x engine? One presumes the 300GD followed the 300D for
 engines.


 Probably a 617.  Wasn't it the G300D's that got the 603?
 I want a 463 G300D, but they basically don't exist here.

 -- Jim




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Re: [MBZ] 300GD

2009-01-16 Thread Peter Merle
Can't be 616's if its a 300. Up to 1990 - 617 , post 1990 603, 606
Peter

2009/1/16 ernest breakfield erne...@backyardengineering.org

 from what i've seen, early 300GDs seemed to have either the 616 or 617
 (non-turbo).


 cheers!
 e


 Curt Raymond wrote:

 Drl...

 Would this have a 60x engine? One presumes the 300GD followed the 300D for
 engines.

 -Curt




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Re: [MBZ] New repair DVD's available

2009-01-08 Thread Peter Merle
Only came across the infoaccess DVD's for $95 - there could not find the
part numbers you listed on site?
PEter

2009/1/9 relng...@aol.com

 MBUSA has released 2 new DVD's for W203  W211 chassis...first time they
 have
 released customer(client) repair info before the models were replaced!

 List price is only $60...

 Part number for the W203 chassis is P-2700-203-06

 For the W211 chassis P-2700-211-06

 Go to: www.mercedestechstore.com/index.htm

 RLE


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Re: [MBZ] So I end up buying a 2005 Dodge Magnum

2009-01-07 Thread Peter Merle
Which merc are they based on?
Here in SA no one is interested in buying American vehicles - the Japs ,
European and now Chinese have the market
Peter


2009/1/7 Steve MacSween steve.macsw...@videotron.ca

 There are no reasonably priced competent wrenches left in my area for the
 older cars. The only shop that is left has a shop rate of $90 per hour and
 they take bookings for two weeks down the road.

 They charged me $440 (P  L) to replace the shift cable on my w126. Nay
 nay.

 I'm turning 50 this year and have an older house that also demands my time,
 so I'm too old and tired to spend time on old cars anymore, except as a
 hobby. I did keep my w111 and my cherry Texan w123 240d, both of which need
 engines.

 But driving a newer car with no issues is SO much more relaxing, in daily
 driver terms. I paid my dues over decades with old used Volvos and then
 Benzes, now I've 'retired' to Chrysler.

 You do know that the 300/Magnum/Charger were developed off Benz chassis,
 right?

 The Magnum is a nice piece of work. They eat them up in Europe, apparently.

 Mac

 on 1/7/09 11:57, Kaleb C. Striplin at ka...@striplin.net wrote:

  What is it with you long term hard core MB people buying crap american
  cars?  First toad goes all chrysler on us, now you.
 
  Steve MacSween wrote:
  Had it two months and no complaints so far. SXT with 3.5 HO.
 
  I came to it for reasons of price/value/kick for buck in today's market.
  After the test drive there was no way I was not buying it.
 
  The alternatives (all 2004-2007 models):
 
  Ford Ranger (what I set out to buy): not enough headroom, BUMMER
  Subaru Forester: pricey for what you get, slightly cramped for me
  Subaru Outback: nice once I folded myself in two to get into it
  Volkswagen Passat: put me to sleep in 5 minutes
  Scion Van: kewl but unbearably cheap inside and you can hear every
  suspension movement every moment you drive
  Mazda 5: too cramped
  Volvo xc70: WOW best seats of any car anywhere, decent handling, scary
  repair stories so I ran away
  300e: they are all scary movie time up here now, no decent ones left
  300td: only decent one I have seen for months blew up (no joke) the day
  before I was to go see it
  Nissan Rogue: too cramped, nice package tho
  Dodge Caliber: Drove it as a rental for 3 weeks while I shopped. CVT
 sounds
  like a roto rooter half the time. Huge inside but I got tired of banging
 my
  head every time I got in, really quick.
 
  You can start the flames now ;).
 
  Mac
 
 
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[MBZ] Idle speed control w124 300D

2008-12-29 Thread Peter Merle
My 87 300D idle speed control stops working when under the hood temps get
high. Idle then runs up to around 1700 rpm . The voltage going to the idle
servo on the inj pump also then increases to 12V from the normal 2.5 - 3.5
V. Anyone got any idea what the cause of this is?
Peter
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Re: [MBZ] Rear License plate backing

2008-12-25 Thread Peter Merle
2008/12/24 Tom Savage tesav...@gmail.com

 Peter Merle wrote:

 Here in S .Africa one got a Chrome ( Stainless Steel ? ) backing plate ,
 very much the same as the front one thats on the EPC. I'l try and find out
 what the part number is.
 PEter


 I've never seen a euro 123s with a rear bracket, and the EPC doesn't show
 one.  But, the EPC doesn't show a rear bracket for South Africa, either.
  There's probably an SA code for that; do you have the VIN for a South
 African car handy?  The front bracket is P/N 123 817 03 78 with two of 116
 810 06 14 between the bracket and the bumper.

 Good Christmas, everyone.

 Tom
 Off to Indiana for a few days.


Tom,
A lot of the S.Africa parts are captured on the EPC ( eg radiator ) so I am
not surprised its not there. My car is 1979 and does not register a datacard
on the EPC. EPC for W123 's I believe only started arround 1982
Peter



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[MBZ] Rear License plate backing

2008-12-23 Thread Peter Merle
I'm trying to find out if US and / or European W123 sedans came with a
chromed rear license plate backing plate. Local - South African ones did but
I have a German import and that one appears not to have one - not sure if
that's correct for that car or not. Anyone know ?
PEter
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Re: [MBZ] Rear License plate backing

2008-12-23 Thread Peter Merle
Here in S .Africa one got a Chrome ( Stainless Steel ? ) backing plate ,
very much the same as the front one thats on the EPC. I'l try and find out
what the part number is.
PEter

2008/12/24 Wilton Strickland wilt...@nc.rr.com

 Yes, I know.

 Wilton

 - Original Message -
 From: Robert Rentfro rrent...@cox.net
 To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 10:53 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear License plate backing


  That's what Chuck is talking about. Out here it seems every dealer has to
  slap on their plate frame on your car when you buy it.
  Or, any other type like the ones that say My other car is a Mooney or
 I
  heart my dog head.
  Now when the speeding cameras take your picture they can tack on the
 extra
  $135 for covering up Arizona
 
  Bob R
 
  -Original Message-
  From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:
 mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
  On Behalf Of Wilton Strickland
  Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 8:08 PM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear License plate backing
 
  That's why I've never seen one on a 123 - only the aftermarket crap.
 
  Wilton
 
  - Original Message -
  From: TE ban...@carolina.rr.com
  To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 9:46 PM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear License plate backing
 
 
   I think hes talking about the mounting bracket... not a license plate
  frame.
   I know my W126 had one, but both W123s ive owned only had the machine
  screw
   holes in the body.
  
   -Original Message-
   From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
 [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
   On Behalf Of Wilton Strickland
   Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 6:17 PM
   To: Mercedes Discussion List
   Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear License plate backing
  
   Any such backing plates or frames that I've seen here in NC, USA, are
   after market, often also displaying somebody's
 advertisement/dealership,
   etc.
  
   Wilton
  
   - Original Message -
   From: Peter Merle merle.pe...@gmail.com
   To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
   Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 3:40 PM
   Subject: [MBZ] Rear License plate backing
  
  
I'm trying to find out if US and / or European W123 sedans came with
 a
chromed rear license plate backing plate. Local - South African ones
 did
   but
I have a German import and that one appears not to have one - not
 sure
  if
that's correct for that car or not. Anyone know ?
PEter
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[MBZ] Preserving hydraulics

2008-12-13 Thread Peter Merle
I am busy stripping a W123 and would like some advice on the preservation
storage of brake hydraulic components . Can I use paraffin or ATF in the
hydraulics to prevent corrosion?

Peter
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Re: [MBZ] Preserving hydraulics

2008-12-13 Thread Peter Merle
What about the insides of the cylinders ? eg master cylinders - the parts
are all operational - I was hoping to keep it all together and not strip the
hydraulics
Peter

2008/12/13 LWB250 lwb...@yahoo.com

 No, I believe that's exactly what you describe - a wax-based preservative
 intended to prevent corrosion, but it's not Cosmoline.

 Any major engine manufacturer, especially in the industrial engine world,
 offers some sort of preservative oil for long term storage.  I used to use
 it some years ago with Cummins and John Deere engines.  Both companies
 offered the product, and it was nothing more than a really heavy oil that
 was really viscous that you sprayed on the exposed metal parts of the
 engines before you mothballed them.

 You could probably accomplish the same thing with some machine oil in a
 spray bottle.  As long as the exposed surfaces are covered and there is
 something to keep the stuff in place (wrapping in some heavy oiled paper,
 like grocery bags are made of) it should be fine.

 Dan


 --- On Sat, 12/13/08, E M pokieba...@gmail.com wrote:

  From: E M pokieba...@gmail.com
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Preserving hydraulics
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Date: Saturday, December 13, 2008, 11:09 AM
  Isn't cosmoline the product used in the engine bay of
  our cars when they
  leave the factory.  Kind of a yellowy waxy looking coating?
 
  Drop LarryT a note, I think he has some stuff from England
  which is similar
  and may fit the bill.
 
  Ed
  300E
 
  2008/12/13 LWB250 lwb...@yahoo.com
 
   Peter,
  
   Try and find some preservative oil, known
  around these parts by the brand
   name Cosmoline.
  
   This, along with heavy brown paper soaked in the same,
  is often used for
   long term storage of metal parts.  You basically spray
  the stuff all over
   the part and wrap it up in brown paper.
  
   I'm sure there are similar preservative sprays
  available in your part of
   the world.  Try a marine engine supplier - they would
  have something, I'm
   sure.
  
   Dan
  
  
  
   --- On Sat, 12/13/08, Peter Merle
  merle.pe...@gmail.com wrote:
  
From: Peter Merle merle.pe...@gmail.com
Subject: [MBZ] Preserving hydraulics
To: Mercedes Discussion List
  mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date: Saturday, December 13, 2008, 9:36 AM
I am busy stripping a W123 and would like some
  advice on the
preservation
storage of brake hydraulic components . Can I use
  paraffin
or ATF in the
hydraulics to prevent corrosion?
   
Peter
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Re: [MBZ] Buying freeze is back on

2008-12-10 Thread Peter Merle
Hope you get a job soon , its happening down here in South Africa a lot as
well
Regards
Peter

2008/12/10 Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Got whacked today at work.  I at least have 30 days left there, could have
 been worse.  Will get a severance package after that, but the buying freeze
 is now back on.  As much as I would love to, I guess Im not going to go
 after that 140 with the broken valve cover etc like I planned.
 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
  89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2,
  84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
 http://www.okiebenz.com

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[MBZ] Compression measurement

2008-12-10 Thread Peter Merle
After having bought a diesel compression gauge - not the motometer one
unfortunately- I find I always got low compression values - around 16 bar.
The instrument has a long ( 430 mm ) 1/4  ID pipe going to the non-return
value which is at the base of the gauge. Well I did some calculations and
the volume of the pipe leading up to the gauge is about 13.8 cm3 ! When
compared to the combustion chamber volume of around 27.2 cm3 it is quite
significant as the pipe volume can be considered as part of the combustion
chamber . This reduces the effective compression ratio to about 14.6! - no
wonder the pressures are always pretty low. Are my assumptions correct ?
Does the motometer instrument have the non return valve at the engine end
?

Peter
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Re: [MBZ] Compression measurement

2008-12-10 Thread Peter Merle
The check valve is at the gauge end! This is riduculous as you say. Chinese
piece of crap that I paid a lot of money for.
PEter



2008/12/11 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 I did some calculations and the volume of the pipe leading up to
 the gauge is about 13.8 cm3!


 So what?  That's why there is a check valve in the part that screws
 into the head.  If there isn't, the gauge is of course a POS, as
 you've calculated.  But even my $18 Harbor Freight diesel compression
 set has the check valves in the right places.

 -- Jim




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Re: [MBZ] Towing W123 with no Rear Diff

2008-11-24 Thread Peter Merle
Sorry not turbo - there are propably only 1 or 2 in this country
Peter

2008/11/24 andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Peter,
 If it's a 1981 - 1985 turbo W123 how about removing the temp. and  blower
 motor regulators and shipping them to me for a pittance (unless you KNOW
 they don't work).  My ACC is erratic but acts the same with two different
 push button modules, so it must be something  else.  The monovalve isn't
 suspect either.

 On Sun, Nov 23, 2008 at 9:35 AM, Peter Merle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:

  I have a scrap W123 which I am stripping and eventually I will tow it to
  the
  breakers yard . Now I want to keep the diff but I see the diff is
 integral
  part of the rear suspension and it seems that if the diff it out there is
 a
  strong possibility that the rear suspension will fall apart when towing
 the
  vehicle . Any solutions to my dilema?
  Peter
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Re: [MBZ] Towing W123 with no Rear Diff

2008-11-24 Thread Peter Merle
Its a 1982 model with a large compressor at the lower left of the engine (
not york ) - not sure if that helps

Peter

2008/11/24 andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 They don't weigh much, and slow ocean freight might not be all that dear.


 On Mon, Nov 24, 2008 at 11:48 AM, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  andrew strasfogel wrote:
 
  My correct qualifier question should have been whether it had Type III
 ACC
  (horizontal push buttons). Still a long shot
 
 
  Also a long shot that shipping from South Africa would be a pittance.
 
  Mitch.
 
 
 
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[MBZ] Towing W123 with no Rear Diff

2008-11-23 Thread Peter Merle
I have a scrap W123 which I am stripping and eventually I will tow it to the
breakers yard . Now I want to keep the diff but I see the diff is integral
part of the rear suspension and it seems that if the diff it out there is a
strong possibility that the rear suspension will fall apart when towing the
vehicle . Any solutions to my dilema?
Peter
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Re: [MBZ] Towing W123 with no Rear Diff

2008-11-23 Thread Peter Merle
All I want is the diff  the suspension arms can get thrown away- mind you
the shocks are Ok , so I might salvage those - the diff seems to also locate
the axle in the fore - aft direction ie going through a pot-hole might rip
the suspension off.

Flat bed call out is expensive here  - will cost more than the scrap value

Peter


2008/11/23 Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 08:37:21 -0600 Kaleb C. Striplin
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  I have a scrap W123 which I am stripping and eventually I will tow it
  to the breakers yard.
 
  If you want to keep the diff and suspension parts, the only way to do
  that is to roll it up on a flatbed trailer, then finish stripping it on
  the trailer.  I dont see anyway of hauling it off on its own wheels if
  you want to keep those parts.

 If you remove the rear half-shafts, won't the hubs still stay in the ends
 of the trailing arms? I think so.

 If you remove the differential, won't the part of rear suspension that
 holds the differential bump up against the body of the car? Answering my
 own question, maybe not. I recall taking the rear differential support off
 and the whole thing lowering toward the ground.

 So, if you could wire or some other way keep the rear of the part that
 holds the differential up against the body, it would work (and you would
 want to tow really slowly). A piece of wood (here in the States, a 2x4; I
 don't know what they have in South Africa) running between the rear bumper
 and the driveshaft intermediate bearing support and tied to each with
 steel wire would do the trick. Without the differential, there isn't that
 much weight to support.

 If you don't like that way of jury-rigging (hey, it's a one-way trip to
 the knackers, after all), you could tow it backwards on two wheels with
 something like a tow truck.


 Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Towing W123 with no Rear Diff

2008-11-23 Thread Peter Merle
Thanks guys , the wood substitute should  work well.

Peter

2008/11/23 Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 16:35:05 +0200 Peter Merle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:

  I have a scrap W123 which I am stripping and eventually I will tow it to
  the breakers yard . Now I want to keep the diff but I see the diff is
  integral part of the rear suspension and it seems that if the diff it
  out there is a strong possibility that the rear suspension will fall
  apart when towing the vehicle . Any solutions to my dilema?

 Yes, here's what you do:

 1. Remove the differential and lay the rear subframe (the U shaped
   piece) down.

 2. Remove both rear axle half-shafts.

 3. Get a piece of wood that is wider than the differential bolt pattern to
   the subframe and wider than the rear differential support bolt pattern
   to the body (probably 20 cm wide would do it). The wood has to be thick
   enough to carry the load (probably 4 cm).

 4. Cut the wood longer than the distance from the front bolt holes on the
   subframe to the rear bolt holes on the body.

 5. Match drill the front end of the wood to the diff bolt holes in the
   subframe.

 6. Bolt the wood to the subframe.

 7. Drill holes for the rear bolts to allow the bolts for the rear diff
   support holes to go through the wood and bolt the wood to the body.

 8. Tow the car, with its driver, slowly to the knackers.


 In lieu of 7, you could leave the rear diff support in place and lash the
 wood to that. In lieu of 3 - 7 you could use a long piece of wood tied to
 the bumper and the driveshaft intermediate bearing support.


 Craig

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[MBZ] Flexidiscs W123

2008-11-18 Thread Peter Merle
Bought new OEM replacement rubber discs for the propshaft for my W123 and I
see no marking  indicating orientation. Are they now bi-directional?
Peter
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Re: [MBZ] Flexidiscs W123

2008-11-18 Thread Peter Merle
In the past they had more strength in the driven by the engine direction 
than the opposite direction so had a directionality indicted on the unit ,
but I see the new one's don't have it .
Peter

2008/11/19 OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 The disks I installed in the 107 didn't have any markings, and the FSM
 didn't mention anything related to orientation.

 On Tue, Nov 18, 2008 at 9:29 PM, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
  On Tue, 18 Nov 2008 22:23:39 +0200 Peter Merle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  wrote:
 
  Bought new OEM replacement rubber discs for the propshaft for my W123
  and I see no marking  indicating orientation. Are they now
  bi-directional? Peter
 
  I bought new OEM replacement flex disks when I modified our 240D (to turn
  it into its present 240D/3.0) 7 years ago. Those disks never had any
  orientation marking. In fact, I can't see how they would ever have had
 any
  preferred rotation direction.
 

 --
 OK Don, KD5NRO
 Norman, OK
 There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and
 mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.  - Ernest Hemingway
 '90 300D (Rattled),  '92 300D (Saber), ''97 Ply Grand Voyager (Vincent
 van-go)

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Re: [MBZ] Oil analysis problem

2008-10-31 Thread Peter Merle
Sorry about late response but mine is the non turbo 617.912 engine -no oil
spray jets to cool pistons. I seemto recall that the oil pump thrust
bearing that screws in at the top was quite worn when I overhauled the
engine and was replaced with a new one. This thrust piece has a copper face
that wears -perhaps this is the source of the copper?  I think I will have
to remove the current it and see if its worn

On 28/10/2008, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Yes, and if the tops are not kept cool, oil can burn on the rings and in
 the grooves.  This will create a problem similar to what Peter described.
  As always, it is just something to check, and not a diagnosis

 At 05:37 PM 10/27/2008, you wrote:

 The oil spray nozzles are used for cooling the piston tops.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 ]
 On Behalf Of Loren Faeth
 Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 5:05 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil analysis problem

 Is it possible the piston oil spray nozzles were not cleaned and
 working during the previous rebuild?  That might account for the
 rings being carboned up the first time, and again now.

 At 04:40 PM 10/27/2008, you wrote:
 Hi Peter --
 You asked what actually lubricates the bores? is it splash/leaks
 from the small end?
 
 IIRC you wrote that a 300 W123 was the problem (in your fleet ;-)
 and I believe - not 100% sure - the 300D Turbo had squirters under
 the pistons and the non turbo did not - I believe those squirters
 cool the piston crowns and provide some lubrication to the cylinders
 - otherwise it comes from splashing of the crank.
 
 The carbon on the rings certainly sound like a strong
 likelyhood.  What kind of driving does this car see?  Any long
 distance/high speed stuff?
 
 I do not believe it has anything to do with your rebuilding
 technique.  I suspect you are right about the machine shop not
 having enough crosshatch to get good ring bedding.
 
 It's also extremely important to have a shop that is xperienced with
 MB - hopeflly yours was.  When I rebuilt my 240D I replaced the
 sleeves and pistons/rings - I had to replace the pistons because
 several rings had broken and damaged the piston grooves/lands.
 
 But when honing for new rings it's not all that difficult to do -
 
 Let me ponder this some -but  those carboned rings really sound like
 the problem - but I wonder what caused it the 1st time?  Any idea?
 
 Later --
 
 Sincerely,
 Larry T  (74 911, 91 300D 2.5T)
 www.youroil.net Oil Analysis Kits 
 Porsche Posters/Weber parts
 - Original Message - From: Peter Merle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 1:57 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil analysis problem
 
 
 Larry , compression is down - around 18 bar all round and starting has
 become more slightly more difficult. It did not achieve full 24 bar when
 newly overhauled and I can only ascribe this to not optimal machining.
 honing by engineering shop - perhaps this is the cause of the malay??
 Oil
 pressure is 2 bar at idle hot and it pegs at 3 immediately.  Was
 thinking
 -
 what actually lubricates the bores? is it splash/leaks from the small
 end?
 What is also unusual is that when I overhauled the engine all the rings
 where carboned up onto the piston on all 5 pistons. I suspect the same
 might
 be happening again. I was not however my driveing that contributed to
 this
 as I had just bought the car when I overahuauled it. My other Om617's
 show
 now sighn of similar problems - I also overhauled my 300GD ( a crack in
 head
 that had been repaired by previous owner was starting to leak ) and
 thats
 going well. Oil consumption is still low ( arround 0.2 l/ 1000 km )
 PEter
 
 
 
 2008/10/27 LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 is the oil consumption from leaks or is it being burned?
 
 If burning, the time it is burning will help understand what might be
 wrong. If after idling for a few minutes you accelerate and leave a
 smoke
 trail bad valve guides are indicated.  If it has white oil smoke
 whiledriving at a steady speed, rings are likely the problem - or
 something
 related to the pistons.
 
 A single oil sample is not as informative as several - preferably at
 intervals of 1500 miles or more.
 
 As Curt pointed out, results are best evaluated over time.  The history
 of
 the engine is helpful info also - if used for short trips where it was
 not
 warmed enough to burn off carbon deposits a misleading indication can
 ccur
   --
 
 Sincerely,
 Larry T  (74 911, 91 300D 2.5T)
 www.youroil.net Oil Analysis Kits 
 Porsche Posters/Weber parts
 - Original Message - From: Peter Merle 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2008 4:04 AM
 Subject: [MBZ] Oil analysis problem
 
 
   Sent oil samples from my 5 300D 's to the lab ( 3 x W123's , 1x 300GD
 (
 OM617 ) and 1xW124

Re: [MBZ] Oil analysis problem

2008-10-27 Thread Peter Merle
Larry , compression is down - around 18 bar all round and starting has
become more slightly more difficult. It did not achieve full 24 bar when
newly overhauled and I can only ascribe this to not optimal machining.
honing by engineering shop - perhaps this is the cause of the malay?? Oil
pressure is 2 bar at idle hot and it pegs at 3 immediately.  Was thinking -
what actually lubricates the bores? is it splash/leaks from the small end?
What is also unusual is that when I overhauled the engine all the rings
where carboned up onto the piston on all 5 pistons. I suspect the same might
be happening again. I was not however my driveing that contributed to this
as I had just bought the car when I overahuauled it. My other Om617's show
now sighn of similar problems - I also overhauled my 300GD ( a crack in head
that had been repaired by previous owner was starting to leak ) and thats
going well. Oil consumption is still low ( arround 0.2 l/ 1000 km )
PEter



2008/10/27 LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 is the oil consumption from leaks or is it being burned?

 If burning, the time it is burning will help understand what might be
 wrong. If after idling for a few minutes you accelerate and leave a smoke
 trail bad valve guides are indicated.  If it has white oil smoke
 whiledriving at a steady speed, rings are likely the problem - or something
 related to the pistons.

 A single oil sample is not as informative as several - preferably at
 intervals of 1500 miles or more.

 As Curt pointed out, results are best evaluated over time.  The history of
 the engine is helpful info also - if used for short trips where it was not
 warmed enough to burn off carbon deposits a misleading indication can ccur
  --

 Sincerely,
 Larry T  (74 911, 91 300D 2.5T)
 www.youroil.net Oil Analysis Kits 
 Porsche Posters/Weber parts
 - Original Message - From: Peter Merle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2008 4:04 AM
 Subject: [MBZ] Oil analysis problem


  Sent oil samples from my 5 300D 's to the lab ( 3 x W123's , 1x 300GD (
 OM617 ) and 1xW124 ) and got satisfatcory results from 3 off them . The
 one
 W123 ( the only one running Mobil 1 ) had high levels of Copper and Iron (
 29 and 71 ppm ) after 2000 km. Sodium, Siicon, Al , Cr , particulates,
 soot
 are all low . Lab suggested the oil pump is worn and I should test oil
 pressure . Well the oil pump had done only 6 km and oil pressures are
 good. The engine is loosing compression and oil consumption has increaseed
 since engine rebuild a few years ago  so something is not right.  Any
 ideas
 anyone?

 Am going to change oil to delo 400 and then see what the results are.

 Regarding the other car with poor results - I had just bought it - has
 been
 running on WVO for 3 km - well its oil had high levels of iron ( 93
 ppm
 ) as well as particlates - diagonis by lab was that oil filter was being
 bypassed ie filter blocked. is this a problem with WVO ? Does the stuff
 get
 into the engine oil and block the filter?

 Peter
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[MBZ] Oil analysis problem

2008-10-26 Thread Peter Merle
Sent oil samples from my 5 300D 's to the lab ( 3 x W123's , 1x 300GD (
OM617 ) and 1xW124 ) and got satisfatcory results from 3 off them . The one
W123 ( the only one running Mobil 1 ) had high levels of Copper and Iron (
29 and 71 ppm ) after 2000 km. Sodium, Siicon, Al , Cr , particulates, soot
are all low . Lab suggested the oil pump is worn and I should test oil
pressure . Well the oil pump had done only 6 km and oil pressures are
good. The engine is loosing compression and oil consumption has increaseed
since engine rebuild a few years ago  so something is not right.  Any ideas
anyone?

Am going to change oil to delo 400 and then see what the results are.

Regarding the other car with poor results - I had just bought it - has been
running on WVO for 3 km - well its oil had high levels of iron ( 93 ppm
) as well as particlates - diagonis by lab was that oil filter was being
bypassed ie filter blocked. is this a problem with WVO ? Does the stuff get
into the engine oil and block the filter?

Peter
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Re: [MBZ] Oil analysis problem

2008-10-26 Thread Peter Merle
Yes indeed  I rebuilt the engine myself 5 years ago. I was meticulous and
used OEM parts throughout. Used dino oil for the first two changes 500, 5000
km then switched to Mobil 1 . It never ran low in oil. Running in was
carefully done follwing recommended practice.

Peter

2008/10/26 Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 The one with high iron levels, did you do the rebuild yourself? Sounds like
 a bad job was done and the rings are breaking down...

 When I first got my 190D oil analysis showed high iron levels and would
 force an oil change at ~8000 miles. Over the next 20,000 miles or so the
 iron levels reduced at each change so that now after ~75,000 miles of
 ownership iron levels are normal at 15,000 mile oil changes and I'm
 pondering 20,000... During the time of high iron levels the car started fine
 and had normal power. I theorized the car was carboned up and had sludge
 from the previous owner using cheap oil...

 -Curt

 Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 10:04:15 +0200
 From: Peter Merle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [MBZ] Oil analysis problem
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

 Sent oil samples from my 5 300D 's to the lab ( 3 x W123's , 1x 300GD (
 OM617 ) and 1xW124 ) and got satisfatcory results from 3 off them . The one
 W123 ( the only one running Mobil 1 ) had high levels of Copper and Iron (
 29 and 71 ppm ) after 2000 km. Sodium, Siicon, Al , Cr , particulates, soot
 are all low . Lab suggested the oil pump is worn and I should test oil
 pressure . Well the oil pump had done only 6 km and oil pressures are
 good. The engine is loosing compression and oil consumption has increaseed
 since engine rebuild a few years ago  so something is not right.  Any ideas
 anyone?

 Am going to change oil to delo 400 and then see what the results are.

 Regarding the other car with poor results - I had just bought it - has been
 running on WVO for 3 km - well its oil had high levels of iron ( 93 ppm
 ) as well as particlates - diagonis by lab was that oil filter was being
 bypassed ie filter blocked. is this a problem with WVO ? Does the stuff get
 into the engine oil and block the filter?

 Peter



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Re: [MBZ] Peter's 300GD

2008-10-26 Thread Peter Merle
They were offically sold here so is not grey market. Can be used as daily
driver - I get 10 -11 l/100 km.
Peter

2008/10/26 Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Max Dillon wrote:

 Peter,

 How do you like your 300GD?  Is it a grey-market truck?


 I think they were officially exported to South Africa.

 Mitch.



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Re: [MBZ] Remember this?

2008-10-12 Thread Peter Merle
Its definitely a non turbo -can tell by the vin number and engine number

Peter

2008/10/10 Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 My wife loves this color combination and adores the interior so I was
 interested in it. Then the price when crazy and the questions started. The
 guy is obviously not being up front. Any good seller would have made a note
 about being told by LOTS of potential bidders that the car obviously has
 something up. That and the fact that he never lists the replies to emails
 and doesn't post engine pics makes me very nervous of this one...

 -Curt

 --- On Thu, 10/9/08, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Remember this?
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], Mercedes Discussion List 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Date: Thursday, October 9, 2008, 7:38 PM

 First of all, I have NO interest in buying another car right now.  I
 need to SELL cars.  But as an anti-bozo service to all on the list, I
 am helping to discover what this turkey really is.  He did send me
 pictures of the engine bay, and as previously posted, it is either a
 .12. turbo engine, not original, or worse yet, some bozo hung a turbo
 on the .10. euro non-turbo engine, a recipe for disaster.  In
 response to the engine photos I  sent him this:

 Thank you.  Can you send me a picture of the engine number plate, if
 the numbers are readable, or an email with the engine number form the
 plate?  Thanks.  This is either not the original engine, or the
 original engine has been improperly modified.  Therefore, I can't bid
 without knowing the engine number.

 If anyone on the list buys it or looks at the car, please inform the
 list.   (after the conclusion of the sale, if you are bidding).

 At 03:37 PM 10/9/2008, you wrote:
 Interesting, he wouldn't send them to me and he won't add them to
 the listing...
 
 --- On Thu, 10/9/08, dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 From: dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Remember this?
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], Mercedes Discussion List
 mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Date: Thursday, October 9, 2008, 3:09 PM
 
 He forwarded me pictures of the engine. It has a turbo.
 
 -Dave Walton
 

 Loren Faeth





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Re: [MBZ] Strange intermittent idling problem

2008-10-09 Thread Peter Merle
Just a view from South Africa - here biodiesel is priced as  just below
regular diesel so its not worth it ( energy density is some 10 % less ) +
its quality is dubious. WVO is arround a third of the price of diesel here
it become pure economics ( if you don't count all the hassels with WVO) ) to
run WVO - the break even point is arround 2km with a W123 300D - you
could literally throw the car away at that distance and you will have broken
even when compared it to a car running diesel!

For the record I run all my diesels ( 5 off ) on 500 ppm diesel - the 50ppm
stuff here cause  in O- ring damage to my Om603

Peter

2008/10/9 Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Properly finalized biodiesel is pure, no water, methanol, or NaOH/KOH.

 Luther
 Peter Frederick wrote:

 Glycerine is much less of a problem than the accompanying water and sodium
 methoxide, which corrodes the bejesus out of everything.

 Peter

 On Oct 8, 2008, at 8:47 PM, Luther wrote:

  Home-brew biodiesel can be made to or greater than ASTM standards.  I
 personally know several who have done it and had their samples officially
 tested.

 Luther


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Re: [MBZ] Strange intermittent idling problem

2008-10-08 Thread Peter Merle
This engine has been driven has been using WVO for  arround 12000 km . It is
using a 1micro filter. He has another W123 300D also on WVo and its been
going for arround 32000 km now without issues.

What gets damaged in the pump? Surely it would be terminal and not
intermittant.
Thanks
Peter

2008/10/8 Mathieu J. Cama [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Peter,

 Intermittent missing can be a sign of weak compression on a particular
 cylinder. Cover your bases and do a compression test or, better yet, a leak
 down test if you have the equipment. Prior to checking compression, make
 sure valve lash has been set properly for all valves. While checking valve
 lash, also carefully inspect each cam lobe for wear/scoring. A worn cam lobe
 can also cause this symptom.

 FYI, per the factory 1980 TDM, the specs are as follows:

 Wear limit for compression is 15 bar (220.50 psi), below that the motor
 will likely not run. (Installation tolerance is 22-24 bar (323-352 psi))
 Maximum loss for leakdown test is: 25%.
 Maximum compression differential between cylinders at operating temperature
 is 3 bar (~45 psi).

 If compression/ leak down checks out OK, make sure the cam timing is on the
 mark. Is there any sort of smoke or other symptom(s) that would be
 indicative of the IP being off-time?

 If these check out fine, I would delve into the fuel side of the motor.
 Diesels are simple, with correct timing, good compression, and fuel, it has
 to ignite. Not many variables, here.

 If this car has been running WVO, the injection pump may have suffered
 damage and in turn cause this symptom. I have seen that before.
 Insufficiently heated or poorly filtered WVO will trash an IP in short
 order.

 Mathieu
 www.oldworldauto.com







 On Oct 7, 2008, at 4:29 PM, Peter Merle wrote:

  A friend of mine brought his W123 300D ( Non turbo ) to  me to try and
 sort
 out his intermittent idle problem. - Usually the engine purrs nicely but
 then every now and then the idle speed drops and engine runs roughly. When
 this occurs I isolated the problem to #1 cyl - ( by disconnecting each
 fuel
 line in turn #1 did not have a affect ) . When engine runs #1 is fine as
 are
 all other cylinders. I initially checked spray pattern on the tester - Ok
 .
 I replaced the injector with a known good one and the problem was still
 there. I then replaced dellivery valve an dth eproblem is still present. I
 am now a bit stumped - coul dit be a stuck injection pump element? what
 about an engine valve not closing?  Any ideas are welcome!

 Peter



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Re: [MBZ] Strange intermittent idling problem

2008-10-08 Thread Peter Merle
Thanks for that valuable info , will recommend to friend to check
compressions / valve clearance etc .
Peter

2008/10/8 Mathieu J. Cama [EMAIL PROTECTED]


 On Oct 8, 2008, at 12:23 PM, Peter Merle wrote:

  This engine has been driven has been using WVO for  arround 12000 km . It
 is
 using a 1micro filter. He has another W123 300D also on WVo and its been
 going for arround 32000 km now without issues.

 What gets damaged in the pump? Surely it would be terminal and not
 intermittant.
 Thanks
 Peter


 Peter,

 I have a number of clients that run/have run WVO. One has amassed in excess
 of 80k miles on WVO and is only now beginning to show signs of problems,
 while others traveled only a few thousand miles and ended up with damaged
 IPs. The viability of running WVO is only as good as the conversion. Most
 conversions do not heat the WVO to a high enough temperature (min. 160 F)
 and this is the number one cause for IP failure based on my experience. The
 viscosity of properly heated WVO is close to that of cold diesel. As
 temperature of the WVO decreases its viscosity rises at a near exponential
 rate. Our IPs were designed to operate with fuel having a viscosity lower
 than that of cold diesel, i.e. warm diesel. It was never expected that these
 IPs would be continually running cold diesel; it would only see such until
 the motor reached running temperature and was able to warm the fuel. If in
 doubt, feel your spin-on fuel filter after a 20 minute drive,, it will be
 downright warm, even without an auxiliary fuel heater. Given this, my
 hypothesis is IP failure is a question of when and not if when running WVO.

 I owned a Euro 300td, non-turbo OM617. It saw WVO under the previous
 owner's tenure (+/- 10k miles) and the oil was not sufficiently heated. That
 motor would often, not always, suffer hard starting when hot and an
 intermittent miss, only at idle, hot and/or cold. The miss was without rhyme
 or reason with the exception it was more prevalent at higher ambient
 temperatures. However, once running, it exhibited excellent power, textbook
 fuel economy, and did not miss off idle. All of this running diesel. I
 replaced the IP with a known good unit and all the problems went away. Of
 course, I did my homework to verify the rest of the motor and fuel system
 was sound before proceeding with the IP.

 However, the majority of the MB diesels I have come across with an
 intermittent miss at idle either have defective fuel injector(s) or a
 cylinder with out of spec compression on one or more cylinders (be it due to
 rings, valves, etc). It would be foolish to conclude a faulty IP based on
 your symptoms without doing further diagnostic on the motor.

 In conclusion, the IP issue can be intermittent based on my experience. MB
 IPs seldom fail catastrophically and without warning. Almost always, they
 show signs long before complete failure. As to what fails in the IP, there
 are a myriad of possibilities. Truth is, it really does not matter, as IPs
 are meant to be serviced only by those with the equipment and experience
 necessary to repair them. IPs are not meant to be repaired by the general
 mechanic or the casual DIYer (outside of delivery valves and seals, the feed
 pump, and oil servicing for the M pumps with self contained oil systems).
 Proper diagnosis and repair of the IP requires a calibration bench among
 many other things. Some things are best left to the professionals. There are
 only two outfits in the US I would trust my IPs to.


 Mathieu
 www.oldworldauto.com



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[MBZ] Strange intermittent idling problem

2008-10-07 Thread Peter Merle
A friend of mine brought his W123 300D ( Non turbo ) to  me to try and sort
out his intermittent idle problem. - Usually the engine purrs nicely but
then every now and then the idle speed drops and engine runs roughly. When
this occurs I isolated the problem to #1 cyl - ( by disconnecting each fuel
line in turn #1 did not have a affect ) . When engine runs #1 is fine as are
all other cylinders. I initially checked spray pattern on the tester - Ok .
I replaced the injector with a known good one and the problem was still
there. I then replaced dellivery valve an dth eproblem is still present. I
am now a bit stumped - coul dit be a stuck injection pump element? what
about an engine valve not closing?  Any ideas are welcome!

Peter
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Re: [MBZ] Strange intermittent idling problem

2008-10-07 Thread Peter Merle
What do you think it is Mitch? I have introduced a new injector to #1 and it
made no difference.
Peter

2008/10/7 Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Swap #1 and #2 injectors, see what happens.

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Re: [MBZ] Spill timing an OM603

2008-09-11 Thread Peter Merle
Thanks guys
Peter

On 11/09/2008, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 No

 Peter Merle wrote:
 Can one time an OM603 using the spill timing method? If so what are the
 specs.
 Thanks
 Peter

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 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
 Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.19/1664 - Release Date: 9/10/2008
 6:00 AM


 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
   87 300SDL x2, 86 300E, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D,
   84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
   76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
 http://www.okiebenz.com

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[MBZ] Spill timing an OM603

2008-09-10 Thread Peter Merle
Can one time an OM603 using the spill timing method? If so what are the specs.
Thanks
Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Spill timing an OM603

2008-09-10 Thread Peter Merle
Do you have a link for the tool supplier?
Have you tried  using the eyeball method described in the Haynes MAnual?
Peter

2008/9/10 John Robbins [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Peter Merle wrote:
  Can one time an OM603 using the spill timing method? If so what are the
 specs.

 Not to my knowledge.  I don't think there are any specs posted... which
 is a good part of the reason.

 The only way I know to do it is using a nearly $300 tool.  There are two
 other ways, but they required a lot more time and effort.  So I bought
 the tool and was done with it.

 John


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Re: [MBZ] Spill timing an OM603

2008-09-10 Thread Peter Merle
How would you do the timing using the lock tool? I guess the steps would be
1. Remove IP ( do you need to remove Manifold and or oil filter housing?
2. Set IP to 15 deg BTDC using lock tool
3. Set engine to 15 deg BTDC
4. By playing with the timing adjustment screw get the pump to slot in

Are my assumptions right?
Peter

2008/9/10 John Robbins [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Peter Merle wrote:
  Do you have a link for the tool supplier?
  Have you tried  using the eyeball method described in the Haynes MAnual?

 http://www.w124performance.com/images/tools/IP__RIV_tool.jpg

 Here is one of the other tools... you have to remove the IP to set the
 timing using this method
 http://www.w124performance.com/images/tools/IP__lock_tool.jpg

 Call Rusty.  Should be a number on the bottom of this email.

 Never heard of the eyeball method...  I'm hesitant to trust it from the
 name, and the Haynes manual doesn't help much ;)

 BTW, you can call 1-800-4MERCEDES and you can get the official W124
 service manuals mailed to you on CD.  Cost is about $75.  Contact me
 offlist for some more information on a 'discount'.


 John


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Re: [MBZ] Spill timing an OM603

2008-09-10 Thread Peter Merle
why do you have to remove the fan though?
Peter

2008/9/10 John Robbins [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Peter Merle wrote:
  How would you do the timing using the lock tool? I guess the steps would
 be
  1. Remove IP ( do you need to remove Manifold and or oil filter housing?
  2. Set IP to 15 deg BTDC using lock tool
  3. Set engine to 15 deg BTDC
  4. By playing with the timing adjustment screw get the pump to slot in
 
  Are my assumptions right?

 Look like it to me!  The other thing is if you have any timing chain
 stretch you'll have to play with it some.  The other thing I don't know
 is how you actually check it.  I guess you set the engine to 15 ATDC and
 make sure the tool fits?  With the expensive tool it takes longer to
 remove the fan than it does to check the timing.

 John


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[MBZ] Om617 fitting into W126

2008-08-23 Thread Peter Merle
How difficult will it be to get a manual tranny Om617 ( non -turbo ) to fit
into a W126 ? Here in SA we did not get the 300SD 's and furthur the 300SD
only came in auto tranny. I have a spare OM617 non turbo and gearbox thay I
was thinking of fitting into a 280SE body.

Peter
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Re: [MBZ] Om617 fitting into W126

2008-08-23 Thread Peter Merle
Will the W123 / or the W126 280SE manual tranny linkages work? 280Se manuals
I believe are available here.
PEter

2008/8/23 Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Peter Merle wrote:
  How difficult will it be to get a manual tranny Om617 ( non -turbo ) to
 fit
  into a W126 ? Here in SA we did not get the 300SD 's and furthur the
 300SD
  only came in auto tranny. I have a spare OM617 non turbo and gearbox thay
 I
  was thinking of fitting into a 280SE body.

 I'm thinking you'd need 300SD front motor mounts (maybe from Rusty),
 gearshift
 linkages and clutch pedal/cylinder assembly (are those common 126 items in
 SA?),
 a crossmember that puts the tranny mount under the back of the tranny, and
 a
 driveshaft of the appropriate length. Those last two items might require
 modification/fabrication. Oh, and it might be easiest to use radiator and
 hoses
 and exhaust parts for a real 300SD so that all the plumbing fits right.
 (I'd
 probably just have a local fabricator handle the exhaust as a custom job)

 Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] best way to start worn out diesel

2008-07-10 Thread Peter Merle
Unfortunately my SA spec OM617 does not have a threaded hole for the block
heater - there is a normal welsch plug .

Thanks for the tips
Peter

2008/7/10 Fmiser [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

 It seems than at Wed, 9 Jul 2008 22:19:45 +0200, Peter wrote:

  My old w123 300D is on its last 10km , compression +- 15
  bar and it currently requires about 12 sec of glowing ( new
  type plugs ) and  seconds of cranking at 10degC ambient. Now
  the question  is do you glow twice and possibly reduce
  cranking time , or reduce glow time and crank more - there is
  a compromise between glowplug life , starter motor life and
  battery life. I wonder what the best compromise is. Further
  throttling help with cold starting ? - the idea being that all
  that excess air drawn in when starting cools the intake charge
  unnecessarily. Regards Peter

 I quite driving one of my 240s when it required two glow cycles
 and the starter plus a good sized hill if the air temperature
 was below 10 C (50 F).

 The block heater is big help.

 In my experience, more glow and less crank seems to work best.
 But as summer turned into autumn, and daytime temperatures
 stayed below 15 C (60 F), I retired the car. It's one of my best
 parts cars now!

 --Philip

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[MBZ] best way to start worn out diesel

2008-07-09 Thread Peter Merle
My old w123 300D is on its last 10km , compression +- 15 bar and it
currently requires about 12 sec of glowing ( new type plugs ) and  seconds
of cranking at 10degC ambient. Now the question  is do you glow twice and
possibly reduce cranking time , or reduce glow time and crank more - there
is a compromise between glowplug life , starter motor life and battery life.
I wonder what the best compromise is. Further throttling help with cold
starting ? - the idea being that all that excess air drawn in when starting
cools the intake charge unnecessarily.
Regards
Peter
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[MBZ] W123 with 2.3 millon km for sale

2008-06-15 Thread Peter Merle
http://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/showDetails.html?id=57606280pageNumber=1scopeId=CsortOption.sortBy=specifics.mileagesortOption.sortOrder=DESCENDINGmakeModelVariant1.makeId=17200makeModelVariant1.searchInFreetext=falsemakeModelVariant2.searchInFreetext=falsemakeModelVariant3.searchInFreetext=falsevehicleCategory=Carsegment=Carfuel=DIESELminFirstRegistrationDate=1975-01-01maxFirstRegistrationDate=1990-12-31siteId=GERMANYnegativeFeatures=EXPORTdamageUnrepaired=NO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIREDminMileage=15customerIdsAsString=lang=entabNumber=1

 Motor läuft prima

Peter
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[MBZ] W124 300D anti jerk

2008-06-13 Thread Peter Merle
I see that according to the epc my vehicle should have the anti jerk unit
mounted on the inj pump. Mine does not have it and its not very pleasant to
drive in that in surges when shifting gears ( manual tranny ).  can the pump
work without the anti jerk? Not sure if previous owner removed it but I
somewhat I doubt it
Peter
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[MBZ] W124 300D rough start

2008-06-07 Thread Peter Merle
My W124 300D has a slight roughness/ engine speed wouble for the first 5 sec
after a cold start - otherwise smooth. HAve checked injector spray pattern
and balanced pressures. Checked glowplugs all draw +_18A. Is this normal? -
i have a friend that has the same phenomenen.
Peter
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Re: [MBZ] Glow plug testing

2008-06-01 Thread Peter Merle
It's a Beru plug and glowing at the base of the tip and not the end -  see
picture - so when you look down the injector hole you see no glowing tip.  I
suspect its not effective anymore as the car suddenly battled to start .  I
only visually checked glowplugs as I was about to reinsert the injectors
after having done a compression check. I also changed delivery valves on the
pump from another one as I thought perhaps they were leaking .



http://s285.photobucket.com/albums/ll57/petermerle/?action=viewcurrent=IMG_3414.jpg

Peter
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[MBZ] MW Pump delivery valves

2008-06-01 Thread Peter Merle
I had a look at the delivery valves as I suspected that these could be one
of the reasons fro the poor starting of my $750 300D now named Vuka after
a Chinese scooter that sells for the same price here. There are  are light
markings on the valve surface - see picture . Does this look OK or should
they be throw away?

I did find a glow plug defective ( see previous post ) . Having also set the
injector pressures to around 130 - 135 bar the cold idling is a bit rough -
it used to be amazingly smooth before ( 3 injectors were at 100 bar and 2 at
120 bar ) . Is this due to other perhaps worse delivery valves or the higher
injector pressures?

http://s285.photobucket.com/albums/ll57/petermerle/?action=viewcurrent=IMG_2790.jpg

Peter
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[MBZ] Afterglow

2008-06-01 Thread Peter Merle
Which mercedes series did they introduce afterglow to assist smooth idling
when cold? For how long does it afterglow for ?
Peter
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Re: [MBZ] Looking for 220V Om617 block heater

2008-06-01 Thread Peter Merle
Normal = pressed cap
This engine is for the South African market so I guess they decided a block
heater is not required even though it can get to -12 deg here in winter
Peter

2008/5/31 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

  Discovered my block has a normal core plug where the threaded block
  heater
  should go . I guess those engined destined to warmer climates did not
  have
  an option to mount a heater

 What is 'normal'?  A pressed-in cap?  My engine has three threaded
 plugs, only one of which was removed to install the block heater.
 As I doubt that they intended to mount more than one, I wonder why
 this engine was built without two 'normal' plugs.  Could yours have
 been a license-built motor, thus explaining the difference?  Seems
 that the 'normal' plug seen here is a 19mm allen threaded plug.

 If a block heater isn't in the cards, you could always go with
 the inline type.  They work, too.  Just not quite as well, nor
 as elegantly.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Looking for 220V Om617 block heater

2008-06-01 Thread Peter Merle
You're right!
Peter

2008/6/1 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

  Normal = pressed cap
  This engine is for the South African market so I guess they decided a
  block
  heater is not required even though it can get to -12 deg here in winter

 So, the real question is whether or not your cap was pressed
 into a threaded hole or not.  Kinda suck to chisel that thing
 out of there only to find you couldn't screw in a block heater.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] MW Pump delivery valves

2008-06-01 Thread Peter Merle
Just some dust settling on them !
Peter

2008/6/1 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

  There are light markings on the [delivery] valve surface
  Does this look OK or should they be thrown away?

 I don't know anything about these, really, but that thing
 looks rough.  (Nice shot with the EOS, though.)

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Looking for 220V Om617 block heater

2008-05-31 Thread Peter Merle
Discovered my block has a normal core plug where the threaded block heater
should go . I guess those engined destined to warmer climates did not have
an option to mount a heater

2008/5/31 Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

 actually he did

 Rusty Cullens wrote:
  Because he didn't say it was 220v Mr. Hurst/
 
 
  Rusty Cullens
  BuyMBparts, Inc.
  Tel 1-800-741-5252
  Fax   770-454-9745
 
  - Original Message -
  From: Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 1:15 PM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Looking for 220V Om617 block heater
 
 
  so why you telling this guy you have them then?
 
  On Fri, May 30, 2008 at 1:11 PM, Rusty Cullens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  wrote:
 
  No, I don't.
 
 
  Rusty Cullens
  BuyMBparts, Inc.
  Tel 1-800-741-5252
  Fax   770-454-9745
 
  - Original Message -
  From: Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 1:08 PM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Looking for 220V Om617 block heater
 
 
  you have 220 volt ones?
 
  On Fri, May 30, 2008 at 12:54 PM, Rusty Cullens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  wrote:
 
  I have them for $49.95
 
 
  Rusty Cullens
  BuyMBparts, Inc.
  Tel 1-800-741-5252
  Fax   770-454-9745
 
  - Original Message -
  From: Peter Merle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 12:43 PM
  Subject: [MBZ] Looking for 220V Om617 block heater
 
 
  I'm looking for a block heater for my tired 300D to nurse it through
  the
  winter here in Capetown. The agents want $500 ! anyone know who
  sells
  aftermarket ones? BTW where does it mount on the block ?
  PEter Merle
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 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
  89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
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[MBZ] Glow plug testing

2008-05-31 Thread Peter Merle
I discovered much to my amazement that one of my glow plugs measures OK ( +-
1 ohm ) and draws 17 A from the battery yet does not glow! Has anyone had
this before ?

Peter
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[MBZ] Looking for 220V Om617 block heater

2008-05-30 Thread Peter Merle
I'm looking for a block heater for my tired 300D to nurse it through the
winter here in Capetown. The agents want $500 ! anyone know who sells
aftermarket ones? BTW where does it mount on the block ?
PEter Merle
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Re: [MBZ] Looking for 220V Om617 block heater

2008-05-30 Thread Peter Merle
Do you have 220V ones Rusty?

Where do these things fit?
Peter

2008/5/30 Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

 of course he did.

 On Fri, May 30, 2008 at 1:20 PM, Rusty Cullens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:

  Because he didn't say it was 220v Mr. Hurst/
 
 
  Rusty Cullens
  BuyMBparts, Inc.
  Tel 1-800-741-5252
  Fax   770-454-9745
 
  - Original Message -
  From: Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 1:15 PM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Looking for 220V Om617 block heater
 
 
   so why you telling this guy you have them then?
  
   On Fri, May 30, 2008 at 1:11 PM, Rusty Cullens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   wrote:
  
   No, I don't.
  
  
   Rusty Cullens
   BuyMBparts, Inc.
   Tel 1-800-741-5252
   Fax   770-454-9745
  
   - Original Message -
   From: Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
   Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 1:08 PM
   Subject: Re: [MBZ] Looking for 220V Om617 block heater
  
  
you have 220 volt ones?
   
On Fri, May 30, 2008 at 12:54 PM, Rusty Cullens 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
wrote:
   
I have them for $49.95
   
   
Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
Tel 1-800-741-5252
Fax   770-454-9745
   
- Original Message -
From: Peter Merle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 12:43 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Looking for 220V Om617 block heater
   
   
 I'm looking for a block heater for my tired 300D to nurse it
  through
 the
 winter here in Capetown. The agents want $500 ! anyone know who
 sells
 aftermarket ones? BTW where does it mount on the block ?
 PEter Merle
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Re: [MBZ] Looking for 220V Om617 block heater

2008-05-30 Thread Peter Merle
Seems like you get 2 kinds , one that fits in the M14 threaded hole near
starter motor and another  in the M38 ? threaded hole in the cylinder head?
Any know for sure. Rusty what size thread does your have ?
Peter
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Re: [MBZ] Looking for 220V Om617 block heater

2008-05-30 Thread Peter Merle
came accross this picture - not sure what thread size is - will this fit in
the block drain hole?

http://s285.photobucket.com/albums/ll57/petermerle/?action=viewcurrent=M617BlockHeater.jpg
Peter
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Re: [MBZ] W123 300D losing compression??

2008-05-11 Thread Peter Merle
compression is low - 16 bar all round at sea level
Peter

2008/5/11 Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

 It seems the next step would be to check compression.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Peter Merle
 Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 1:07 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 300D losing compression??

 Engine was bored to 91.5mm ( Yes it is allowed check EPC and Mercedes OEM
 piston A6170301917 ) was used. HEad was redone using only OEM parts ,
 including new guides all round . Oil consumption has increased from and
 initial 0.2 to approx 0.5 l /1000 km. Engineering shop was one that
 services  the local Mercedes Dealership here in Capetown , South Africa so
 they should know what they are doing. Crank was sized up one repair size.
 Oil pressure is good ( 1.8 bar idle hot ) Running in used Dino oil
 initially  ( 1000km ) and then switched to M1 . Valve clearances are all
 in
 spec. I am using  DNOSD240  nozzles  ( should really be using DNOSD220
 nozzles as car is early 1979 ) .

 Shoud I do a major hill climb burnout? Add some magic potion to the fuel /
 oil?

 Peter


 2008/5/10 Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

  If you don't have increased oil consuption, it's definitely the
  valves, but if the valve guides were not installed and sized
  correctly, you now have worn over-size guides, and the valve seats,
  especially on the exhaust valves, are shot, causing low compression.
 
  The only way to tell is to do a proper leak-down test and see where
  the compression is leaking out.
 
  On a Benz, you really MUST rebuild exactly to factory specs -- in the
  case of the diesel this usually means new pistons, new liners, and
  proper clearance  --- 0.001 on the pistons (this is NOT a misprint)
  and ZERO to 0.0005 on the valve guides.  They are correct size if
  you can barely get the valve in the guide by hand, oiled.  They won't
  go in dry.  Any looser, and it will both burn oil and wear out much
  faster.
 
  Also, you MUST use bronze exhaust guides on the 61x engines -- steel
  ones wear out unblieveably fast (sometimes in less than 10,000
  miles), causing low compression, hard starts, and ruined exhaust valves.
 
  Crank can be ground twice before you go through the factory nitride
  IF it's done correctly.  The shop simply has to be using metric
  measuring tools, calculated from SAE results in undersized crank
  journals every time.
 
  Don't know the story of the rebuild --  what was the assembly
  clearance on pistons, valve stems, main bearings, crankpin bearings?
  New oil pump?
 
  Properly done, with correctly matched rings and liners (there are
  several different materials, some are NOT compatible!) a 61x engine
  ought to make 250,000 miles before it needs valves on Mobil 1.  Lots
  of low speed low load driving can sludge it up and cause the rings to
  stick, but that's only a problem on a worn engine usually, and can be
  cleared by a nice, hard drive on the interstate. Sadly, stuck rings
  usually means worn out cylinder walls.
 
  Peter
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] W123 300D losing compression??

2008-05-10 Thread Peter Merle
Engine was bored to 91.5mm ( Yes it is allowed check EPC and Mercedes OEM
piston A6170301917 ) was used. HEad was redone using only OEM parts ,
including new guides all round . Oil consumption has increased from and
initial 0.2 to approx 0.5 l /1000 km. Engineering shop was one that
services  the local Mercedes Dealership here in Capetown , South Africa so
they should know what they are doing. Crank was sized up one repair size.
Oil pressure is good ( 1.8 bar idle hot ) Running in used Dino oil
initially  ( 1000km ) and then switched to M1 . Valve clearances are all in
spec. I am using  DNOSD240  nozzles  ( should really be using DNOSD220
nozzles as car is early 1979 ) .

Shoud I do a major hill climb burnout? Add some magic potion to the fuel /
oil?

Peter


2008/5/10 Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

 If you don't have increased oil consuption, it's definitely the
 valves, but if the valve guides were not installed and sized
 correctly, you now have worn over-size guides, and the valve seats,
 especially on the exhaust valves, are shot, causing low compression.

 The only way to tell is to do a proper leak-down test and see where
 the compression is leaking out.

 On a Benz, you really MUST rebuild exactly to factory specs -- in the
 case of the diesel this usually means new pistons, new liners, and
 proper clearance  --- 0.001 on the pistons (this is NOT a misprint)
 and ZERO to 0.0005 on the valve guides.  They are correct size if
 you can barely get the valve in the guide by hand, oiled.  They won't
 go in dry.  Any looser, and it will both burn oil and wear out much
 faster.

 Also, you MUST use bronze exhaust guides on the 61x engines -- steel
 ones wear out unblieveably fast (sometimes in less than 10,000
 miles), causing low compression, hard starts, and ruined exhaust valves.

 Crank can be ground twice before you go through the factory nitride
 IF it's done correctly.  The shop simply has to be using metric
 measuring tools, calculated from SAE results in undersized crank
 journals every time.

 Don't know the story of the rebuild --  what was the assembly
 clearance on pistons, valve stems, main bearings, crankpin bearings?
 New oil pump?

 Properly done, with correctly matched rings and liners (there are
 several different materials, some are NOT compatible!) a 61x engine
 ought to make 250,000 miles before it needs valves on Mobil 1.  Lots
 of low speed low load driving can sludge it up and cause the rings to
 stick, but that's only a problem on a worn engine usually, and can be
 cleared by a nice, hard drive on the interstate. Sadly, stuck rings
 usually means worn out cylinder walls.

 Peter


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[MBZ] W123 300D loosing compression??

2008-05-09 Thread Peter Merle
My W123 300D seems to be slowly deteriorating. Oil consumption has increased
, compression is down to min 16 bar. I had overhauled this engine myself
about 4 years and 7km ago . Did all the correct stuff , new pistons ,
timing chain , oil pump etc etc , pump recalibrated , injectors checked and
set to 130bar , . Been running on Mobil1 so I am very upset about the state
of events.  I can only thing that perhaps is the moderate driving that has
contributed as my regular trips is a 20 minute drive to work at a cruise of
60 - 80 km/h . Everynow and again I would give stick up a long hill on the
way home .

Any thoughts of perhaps getting compression up again ?
Peter
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Re: [MBZ] Go Vote Tomorrow - How does it work

2008-02-05 Thread Peter Merle
Seems bazaar that a non party member can vote for a  candidate - In
those states can you vote in both the Rep and Dem primary? If not who
controls this?
Peter

-Original Message-
From: Tom Hargrave [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 05 February 2008 08:46
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Go Vote Tomorrow - How does it work


This is handled state by state. In Alabama, I can vote for anyone I want
in the election primary. In other some states you must register to a
party when you register  then you can only vote in that party's
primary. But you can still vote for whomever you want in the general
election. In no case do you actually have to be a party member.

When I actually go to the polls tomorrow, I'll be asked if I need a
Democrat or Republican ballot. In case anyone's wondering, I will draw a
Republican ballot. I'm no happier with the current president than most
of my friends but our current foreign policy failures are no excuse to
vote a Socialist with a GOD complex into office (sorry, couldn't
resist).

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Peter Merle
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 12:33 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Go Vote Tomorrow - How does it work

As an outsider residing in South Africa I battle to understand the US
voting system - Can any registered voter take part in the Democratic or
Rep run-off elections or must you be a party member? 
PEter

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2/3/2008 5:49 PM



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[MBZ] OM617 Standy Genset

2008-02-04 Thread Peter Merle
Can one modify the MW injector pump governer such that it will govern
the engine at 1500 rpm instead of the idle idle speed of about 750rpm?
Was thinking of using one as part of a  genset.
PEter

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Re: [MBZ] OM617 Standy Genset

2008-02-04 Thread Peter Merle
That's a thought mitch ? Who makes aftermarcket cruise controllers?
PEter

-Original Message-
From: Mitch Haley [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 04 February 2008 13:45
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM617 Standy Genset


Peter Merle wrote:
 
 Can one modify the MW injector pump governer such that it will govern 
 the engine at 1500 rpm instead of the idle idle speed of about 750rpm?

 Was thinking of using one as part of a  genset.

You could try running up the idle stop screw. If it's turbo, you will
have to defeat the ALDA, which overrides the idle circuit. 
The early ones, up through 1979, had a dash mounted idle control. 

The idle governor wasn't made to hold constant speed under heavy loads,
so I don't think the speed regulation will be constant enough to run a
genny and maintain reasonable voltage/frequency control. 
I'd be tempted to get an aftermarked cruise control and run it off the
tach amp. 

Mitch

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Re: [MBZ] Go Vote Tomorrow - How does it work

2008-02-04 Thread Peter Merle
As an outsider residing in South Africa I battle to understand the US
voting system - Can any registered voter take part in the Democratic or
Rep run-off elections or must you be a party member? 
PEter

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Re: [MBZ] Running on empty

2008-01-24 Thread Peter Merle
How long do you have to crank for?

Peter

-Original Message-
From: Alex Chamberlain [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 24 January 2008 09:27
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Running on empty


On Jan 23, 2008 10:37 PM, Peter Merle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  What I ould
 like to know is how do you prime the W124 when you do run out ? Do you

 just crank and crank and eventally the fuel picks up ?


Or the battery dies.  Ask me how I know!

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
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Re: [MBZ] Running on empty/BTDT!

2008-01-24 Thread Peter Merle
What side of the car is the pick up - left  or right , if going up a
hill and you run out will going downhill pick the fuel up?
Peter 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 24 January 2008 17:11
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Running on empty/BTDT!


Peter, and all,

I have run out of fuel in my diesels several times over the last 35
years, both on purpose, and not!? If you cut the engine at the very
first stumble, it will restart quite easily, no priming pump needed,
after fuel is added.? If you try to milk it, sway the car to slosh the
remaining fuel, you are asking for trouble.? I have run out of diesel in
the middle of the night, in the middle of Montana, because stations were
closed in the towns I was passing through.? Did you know that 2 quarts
of oil will get you at least 20 miles down the road when added to an
empty tank?? Driven gently, of course.? Beats walking!? Just don't
pull off the road?to a?steeply cambered area, or the fuel pickup might
just suck air!

Regards,

Jim in Phoenix




How long do you have to crank for?





-Original Message-
From: Peter Merle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 7:18 am
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Running on empty



How long do you have to crank for?

Peter

-Original Message-
From: Alex Chamberlain [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 24 January 2008 09:27
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Running on empty


On Jan 23, 2008 10:37 PM, Peter Merle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  What I ould
 like to know is how do you prime the W124 when you do run out ? Do you

 just crank and crank and eventally the fuel picks up ?


Or the battery dies.  Ask me how I know!

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
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[MBZ] Running on empty

2008-01-23 Thread Peter Merle
I managed to achieve 1000 km on a single tank of diesel in my W124 300D
. It did not consist of any long cruisin trips just my daily commute and
trips arround town. In fact when I topped up there still was 5 litres in
the tank ( assuming the 70 litre tank size is correct) . What I ould
like to know is how do you prime the W124 when you do run out ? Do you
just crank and crank and eventally the fuel picks up ? This one does not
have a hand primer like the older diesels.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] EPC hardware

2007-11-27 Thread Peter Merle
The website indicates that it does not cover the 460 series ( Gwagen ) .
Can someone please check if it accepts datacard for Vin
WDB46033227021345?

Peter 
CapeTown
South Africa

Anyone prepared to loan me their log on credentials ? 
 

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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning enigine inside with synthetic oil

2007-11-27 Thread Peter Merle

For comparison M1 is South Africa goes for about US$35 for 4 litre or
US$45 for 5 litre . Only sold in 4 l containers. 
PEter

-Original Message-
From: tom savage [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 28 November 2007 06:02
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cleaning enigine inside with synthetic oil


LarryT wrote:
 I get 5 qts (~ liters) of Mobil 1 for around $22 at Walmart/  Please 
 don't
 tell me you're really paying $60/5 Liters unless it's monopoly money
;-)

It could be worse.  Mobil 1 was, IIRC, US$18/L at Carrefour (French 
WalMart) in Singapore a few years ago.

Tom

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Re: [MBZ] Parking car in gear

2007-11-26 Thread Peter Merle
There appears to still be a lot of confusion even to myself as to how
the compression effect holds the car. I'm sure if you remove the spark
plugs ( glow plugs for us guys ) the internal friction is not a
significant contributor to keep the car stationary on a slope. If
compression has an affect why after xxx no of secs/hrs/days does the
vehicle not crank over to the next compression cycle? It means
eventually no matter how new the engine is air will leak past the
rings/valves.

BTW does a diesel parked hold it better on a slope that a gasser?

PEter



-Original Message-
From: Craig McCluskey [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 27 November 2007 07:05
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Parking car in gear


On Tue, 27 Nov 2007 09:27:35 +1030 Hendrik  Fay
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Hendrik
 who likes the RHD 123 dash mounted hand brake and wonders how you do a
 smooth hill start in a manual car with a foot operated park brake (eg.

 the 124's)

Make sure the foot operated brake is well set.

Put transmission in neutral. Depress clutch.

Start engine and put transmission in gear.

Let out clutch and feed throttle to keep engine RPMs up.

Feel car lift off parking brake and start to move forward.

Pull parking (emergency) brake release knob and drive off smoothly.\

Works every time.


Craig

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[MBZ] Parking car in gear

2007-11-25 Thread Peter Merle
I have always been puzzelled how a car can continiously by held in
position by the compression of 1 cylinder by leaving it in gear ( manual
tranny  ) . One would think that eventually ( after a few
seconds/minutes ) the rings will leak air  and the car would then lurch
fwd and then start a runway. This does not seem to happen though. Any
thoughts on the physics involved?

PEter 

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Re: [MBZ] Will 617 and 603 operate at compression of 15 bar

2007-11-22 Thread Peter Merle
Regardless of the number of compression cycles if there is additional
volume in the guage that will lower the effective compression ration and
hence the peak pressure reading. Anyone have the OEM Motometer
compression guage? Just wonder where the check valve is.

Peter  

-Original Message-
From: Loren Faeth [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 22 November 2007 19:46
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Will 617 and 603 operate at compression of 15 bar


When I checked the compression on my SDL at 330k miles, I used my 
cheapo tester and a sun tester.  I had trouble getting repeatable 
readings with the cheapo.  With the sun, I was able to get repeatable 
readings in the 425psi range.  I didn't believe any reading until I 
could get within 1-2 psi three times in a row.   I tested with a cold 
engine with I think 4 compression strokes per cylinder.  You need to 
use several compression strokes, 3-4, to get a true reading, because 
the reading is taken of compressible gas mixture.  Pressure varies 
with volume.  adding the gauge and hose adds volume, thus the reason 
to used several compression strokes.

At 12:23 AM 11/22/2007, you wrote:
Good point Mitch , sorry have been away for a while. The guage has the 
check valve at the instrument end of a pipe about a foot long. I have a

revcently overhauled engine to try my hands on and check it out. Peter

-Original Message-
From: Mitch Haley [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 13 November 2007 14:34
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Will 617 and 603 operate at compression of 15 bar


Peter Merle wrote:
 
  Hi, yes starting hot is not that great. Strange that it doesn ot use

  oil ( my two 617's used a lot of oil before compression dropped to 
  low
  levels) and the fact that the pressures are even all round.

Makes me wonder if the gauge has too much air volume between the check 
valve and the combustion chamber, thereby lowering the compression 
ratio. Do you have a known good mbz diesel handy to try the gauge on?

Mitch.

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Loren Faeth 
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Re: [MBZ] Will 617 and 603 operate at compression of 15 bar

2007-11-21 Thread Peter Merle
Good point Mitch , sorry have been away for a while. The guage has the
check valve at the instrument end of a pipe about a foot long. I have a
revcently overhauled engine to try my hands on and check it out. 
Peter 

-Original Message-
From: Mitch Haley [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 13 November 2007 14:34
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Will 617 and 603 operate at compression of 15 bar


Peter Merle wrote:
 
 Hi, yes starting hot is not that great. Strange that it doesn ot use 
 oil ( my two 617's used a lot of oil before compression dropped to low
 levels) and the fact that the pressures are even all round.

Makes me wonder if the gauge has too much air volume between the check
valve and the combustion chamber, thereby lowering the compression
ratio. Do you have a known good mbz diesel handy to try the gauge on?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Will 617 and 603 operate at compression of 15 bar

2007-11-13 Thread Peter Merle
Hi, yes starting hot is not that great. Strange that it doesn ot use oil
( my two 617's used a lot of oil before compression dropped to low
levels) and the fact that the pressures are even all round. 
PEter

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 13 November 2007 02:52
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Will 617 and 603 operate at compression of 15 bar


 
In a message dated 11/12/2007 2:22:28 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Did  compression test on my 124 and I getting an even 15 bar all round.
Had the  gauge itself ( without non-return valve ) tested  and it
actually was  slightly overreading ! The question is will these engine
start and run well  with such a low compression. Oil consumption is
close to zero.  



Peter,
 
I think you have answered your own question, the 603, with 6 cylinders,
will 
start with good reliability, even though it is somewhat below the
factory  
recommendation for overhaul.  The 603, with fast acting glow plugs,
would  put 
less of a drain on the battery, and good cranking speed can be obtained,
a  
critical factor in good starting.  
 
Curiously,  I have found that one of the first clues that the MB  diesel

engine is nearing the overhaul point, is that it won't start at  normal
operating 
temperature without glowing.  This was true of my 200D (66  with 243,000
miles 
on the odometer) my 240D (74 @110,000 miles,with bad rings  due to the
PO 
loaning it to some guy who drove it up a  mountain without water) and my
current 
diesel (79 300SD with 234,000  miles).  The 79 had zero compression in
one 
cylinder, the other four were  about 240PSI,  A broken ring ate the top
land of 
the piston, but it  would still start and run to the speed mark in top
gear  
Two batteries in  series were used towards the very end.  The mileages
quoted 
are when I  overhauled the engines.  
 
Just my $0.02  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 152 K  miles




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[MBZ] Will 617 and 603 operate at compression of 15 bar

2007-11-12 Thread Peter Merle
Did compression test on my 124 and I getting an even 15 bar all round.
Had the gauge itself ( without non-return valve ) tested  and it
actually was slightly overreading ! The question is will these engine
start and run well with such a low compression. Oil consumption is close
to zero. 
Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Bosch Nozzles

2007-11-11 Thread Peter Merle
Had the nozzles tested at local Bosch Diesel shop and they seem to think
spray is OK. Fitted them and combustion noise ( the diesel sound )
seems a lot noisier ? Seems like you can't get German nozzles here ,
will look out for Bosio 
Peter

-Original Message-
From: Peter Merle 
Sent: 09 November 2007 10:32
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Bosch Nozzles



Whent to my local Mercedes Dealer and bought  new nozzles DNSOD-265 for
the W124 300D ( non turbo ) and these to my horror are made in India.
Upon opening the sealed capsule they came in I see under magnification
that its covered in dirt and visible machining marks. Spray is also poor
as is opening pressure which has dropped 1500 kpa. Then phoned the local
Bosch dealer and they also only sell the Indian version. Can one still
get 265's made in Europe?

Peter ( South Africa ) 

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Re: [MBZ] What was the last real Mercedes?

2007-11-11 Thread Peter Merle
Peter , how was crash protection poorer in later W124's than earlier
ones
Peter 

-Original Message-
From: Peter Frederick [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 10 November 2007 20:15
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] What was the last real Mercedes?


First run of W140s, except the electronics.

The last really good ones were the W124 chassis, KE-Jet models.

The newer ones suffer from lousy sheet metal and poor crash protection.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] What was the last real Mercedes?

2007-11-11 Thread Peter Merle
Dimitri
As the owner of 2 G's I under stand your sentiment, however the current
G's ( G55 etc cannot really be called a G , with all that electronics
etc you will too scared to venter into Africa as the originals G's do so
well. Furthur the car newer started as a Mercdedes ( Was a joint venture
with Steyr-puch ) so its pedigree is somewhat not pure.
Peter


-Original Message-
From: Dimitri Seretakis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 10 November 2007 22:58
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] What was the last real Mercedes?


The last real mercedes still being made today, if you want to be a
purist, is the G-wagen.
  Dimitri

Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  The last real Mercedes is still being built today. Go to the
dealership  test drive a new S class and you will understand why.

I little trivia that I've told to the list several times:

I remember when I was a kid in Germany and the new square line came out.
That's the 114 / 115 body for those who don't know.

My parents  their friends were all complaining it's not a real
Mercedes, it doesn't have the Mercedes grill, it will never sell,
they are cheap Mercedes imitations, the quality isn't the same, etc,
etc, etc. And some swore to never buy a Mercedes again - they did.

Then the replacement for the 108 / 109 body came out in 1972 and guess
what? It was the same complaints all over again.

Don't we all collect, restore  drive these Mercedes classics today?

Tom
www.kegkits.com

Original Message
From: Trampas 
Sent: 11/10/07 01:58 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] What was the last real Mercedes?
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= 126

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 1:39 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] What was the last real Mercedes?

140

Steve MacSween wrote:
 This is based on price/quality accordance overall, suitability for
DIY,
and
 parts prices.
 
 I vote w124.
 
 Flames off list pls.
 
 Mac
 
 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
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300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 81
240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
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Re: [MBZ] What was the last real Mercedes?

2007-11-11 Thread Peter Merle
I also have both 123 and 124 diesels and although the 124 is fancier and
more smooth I actually prefer the 123. There is a lot more plastic in
the 124 - see for instance the fuel line clips and parts are not made as
well eg fuel lines are much thinner and more finiky. Complexity is a lot
higher in w124 with electric cooloant pump, electronc idel speed ,
electroic climate control etc etc 

Peter


-Original Message-
From: LarryT [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 11 November 2007 02:09
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] What was the last real Mercedes?


When this thread started  my 1st response, without giving it any
thought 
at all, was the W108 is all it's variants - incl the 109 and 111. 
Especially the late production 280SEL with the 6 cyl FI engine although
the 
4.5 V8 is very high on the list.

Then, I started thinking about my 123 and 124 (I've been lucky
enough to 
have one of each)  - both are amazing cars with few quality problems.
Not 
many --  Of course, we're comparing gas to diesels -

I'd like to try a new S class - as T Hargrave suggested - I'll bet
it's 
awesome.  But I wouldn't want to have to pay for its maintanence after
it's 
5 or 10 years old - which is my yardstick for labelling something
Great in 
terms of something I might buy.  As for as everyone complaining whenever
a 
new model comes out - I think that behaviour is universal - When the
Porsche 
911 was introduced in 1963 the 356 group said they were Real Porsches,

same thing happened again and agin as new series were introduced.  And
when, 
God,forbid, a front engine potential 911 replacement should come out,
stand 
back and watch the arrows fly.

IMHO, MB is growing with the industry - changing to stay
competitive. 
Again - Watching old video of the Porsche assy lines in the 50s compared
to 
the lines of today and the so-called Hand Built Porsches are called
such 
with a wink. Sure, they are more Hands-On that your typical CHevy but
new 
ones could never be called Hand-Built in the tradition of the 356s.

As someone once said, It's all relative.

Later -- 
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.

- Original Message - 
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 3:14 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] What was the last real Mercedes?


 The last real Mercedes is still being built today. Go to the 
 dealership  test drive a new S class and you will understand why.

 I little trivia that I've told to the list several times:

 I remember when I was a kid in Germany and the new square line came 
 out. That's the 114 / 115 body for those who don't know.

 My parents  their friends were all complaining it's not a real 
 Mercedes, it doesn't have the Mercedes grill, it will never sell,

 they are cheap Mercedes imitations, the quality isn't the same, 
 etc, etc, etc. And some swore to never buy a Mercedes again - they 
 did.

 Then the replacement for the 108 / 109 body came out in 1972 and guess

 what? It was the same complaints all over again.

 Don't we all collect, restore  drive these Mercedes classics today?

 Tom
 www.kegkits.com

 Original Message
 From: Trampas [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: 11/10/07 01:58 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] What was the last real Mercedes? 
 -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= 126

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
 Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 1:39 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] What was the last real Mercedes?

 140

 Steve MacSween wrote:
 This is based on price/quality accordance overall, suitability for
 DIY,
 and
 parts prices.

 I vote w124.

 Flames off list pls.

 Mac


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 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 94 E320, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
 http://www.okiebenz.com

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[MBZ] Bosch Nozzles

2007-11-09 Thread Peter Merle

Whent to my local Mercedes Dealer and bought  new nozzles DNSOD-265 for
the W124 300D ( non turbo ) and these to my horror are made in India.
Upon opening the sealed capsule they came in I see under magnification
that its covered in dirt and visible machining marks. Spray is also poor
as is opening pressure which has dropped 1500 kpa. Then phoned the local
Bosch dealer and they also only sell the Indian version. Can one still
get 265's made in Europe?

Peter ( South Africa ) 

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[MBZ] Harmonic Balancer

2007-10-30 Thread Peter Merle
What are the symptons of a harmonic balancer failing ? Do the balancers
of the OM 60x's ever fail?
Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Harmonic Balancer

2007-10-30 Thread Peter Merle
Jim , is the pulley attached to the balancer via 6 bolts - is that what
has a tendency to loosen , or is it the large 27mm bolt in the centre?
Peter

-Original Message-
From: Jim Cathey [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 30 October 2007 16:42
To: Peter Frederick; Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Harmonic Balancer


 All parts fail in some circumstance, somewhere, but I don't remember
 the harmonic balancer on the 60x being a problem.

The crank pulley has a distressing tendency to come loose from the
harmonic balancer.  Makes all kinds of weird noise at first, and then
causes all sorts of harm when it finally lets loose.

-- Jim


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