Re: [MBZ] Booth Cold Method (BCM) Rationale

2005-11-16 Thread Kevin J. Slater
And where is the coil wire on a diesel? :-)

...Kevin
87 300TD 278k mi

Christopher McCann said:
 although accurate, not very convenient on a regular basis!

  Chris

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 you should not really concern your self with 1/2 qt of  oil
  the way to accurately check oil is to a change oil using 8 qt of
 oiland
 filter
  crank the engine with the dist coil wire off  and placed nest to  a
 ground
 point to get the oil pumped up in to the filter  and tensioners  maybe 15
 or so
 sec.
  replace coil wire start engine  and check for leaks
  because you added 8 qts. of oil you know exactly what is in the  engine
  collins
  1985 500 sec



 In a message dated 11/15/2005 6:16:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 SO, the GOAL OF THE DIPSTICK is that when it reads halfway  between min
 and
 max AFTER FOLLOWING MB's INSTRUCTIONS, you will indeed  have the  correct
 quantity of oil in the engine.

 I  imagine that Marshall would not insist on the BCM without having  years
 of experience behind him on this...so I must ask. Marshall, are  you
 saying
 that if my eninge calls for 8 quarts and by Divine  Revelation I  know
 there are
 exactly 8 quarts of M1 in the engine AND I  follow the  procedure above,
 the
 reading on the dipstick will read low?  And if I top  it off so that the
 dipstick reads dead center, I have now  8+ quarts of  M1?

 I know you have said that you don't know why this is,  it just is. Any
 elaboration would be appreciated, because I can't see  how it makes  sense
 either.
 If anything, would not M1 return to the  crankcase MORE  QUICKLY than dino
 oil
 causing the dipstick, if anything,  to READ HIGHER  when following the
 above
 instructions.

 This just doesn't make sense to me.

 My own  experience with M1 in the SD is that it reads the same following
 the
 MB  instructions as when using the BCM. Which is sort of what lead  me to
 this e-mail...the only way that can be the case is that M1 does  indeed,
 after
 a few minutes, LARGELY flow back into the  crankcase...giving  nearly the
 same
 reading at 2 minutes as at 8 hours.

 Additionally, if we were saying that the BCM applies only to some
 obscure
 oil, that might make sense, but it's M1...MB's oil of   choice...how can
 they
 not know how to use a dipstick? It seems a bit   absurd. Now, the memo is
 10
 years old, maybe a new one has superceded   it...maybe M1 has changed
 since
 then...don't know.





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 Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
 -2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
 -1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
 -1985 300SD, 209K, Wulf
 -1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
 -1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
 -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

 -
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Re: [MBZ] carfax help please

2006-01-08 Thread Kevin J. Slater

Here's a link:  http://www.pinebluff.dyndns.org/~kslater/sunil/carfax.htm

Good luck.

Sunil Hari wrote:


Could someone run this VIN for me?

WDBEB28E7NB762506

It -should- be a 1992 300D 2.5T

--
Sunil Hari
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
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[MBZ] Lunch walk double take..

2006-01-09 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Just strolled by a black 320 CDI in the little town that I work in. I saw
the CDI and thought a second before turning back to look a second time.
Yep a new E class diesel. Was parked along the street. I'll bet few
realize it's a diesel..

...Kevin

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[MBZ] Looking for a W123 for new driver in the family..

2006-01-12 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Dieslers,

I'm looking for a W123 (preferrably a 240D) for my 16 y/o son. He's
actually requesting it be a Mercedes. (I think he wrote a 240D into a
novel he wrote - haven't read it myself yet..)

In any case, he can't drive on his own until late spring when he's able to
take his test so I'm not in a great rush. I'd consider travelling somewhat
to find one, but I don't want to go more than about a 1/2 day's drive.

...Kevin
87 300TD
82 300D RIP


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Re: [MBZ] Looking for a W123 for new driver in the family..

2006-01-13 Thread Kevin J. Slater

Thanks Lt Don, both for the translation AND the answer..

...Kevin

OK Don wrote:


The Frapper Benzbunch puts him in Mars, PA.

On 1/12/06, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 


Whence cometh though?

--R

Kevin J. Slater wrote:
   



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, '87 300SDL 290K,  '81 240D 173K,  '78 450SLC 67K, '97
Ply Grand Voyager 78K

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Re: [MBZ] who here has a carfax account?

2006-01-13 Thread Kevin J. Slater

Kleb,

here's a link to the report: carfax report 
http://www.pinebluff.dyndns.org/%7Ekslater/kaleb/carfax.html


...Kevin

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


here is the vin:

WDB1230281A006171

Thanks,

Kaleb

Lee Levitt wrote:

 


Kaleb,

I've got a carfax account for another couple of days...

Lee 



   


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin

Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 1:03 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] who here has a carfax account?

IF so, let me know, I need a vin run thru carfax.  The 
service I use wont do euro vins but carfax will.

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] FS: W124 Euro light lenses - new

2006-03-20 Thread Kevin J. Slater
How much Dave? I have TYC lights on my wagon. (Wanted to get Hellas or
Bosch, but the financial situation at the time wouldn't support it.)

...Kevin
87 300TD

Dave M. said:
 Hi all,

 I found a pair of new lenses floating around my shop that I don't
 need. They are TYC brand, in original boxes, and will fit all Euro
 lights. They're the 1994/95 style but will fit 86-95 cars. No, they
 won't fit DOT lights. They look like this (this is an old photo of my
 car with a set if lights that are now gone):

 http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_headlights/Standard_Hella_Euro.jpg

 You guys have first crack at them, next they're posted on the forums,
 then off to eBay...

 :-)

 --
 Dave M.
 Boise, ID
 1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
 1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)

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Re: [MBZ] taking the bull by the horns - 87 300TD head gasket

2006-03-31 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Chris,

if you want to talk about this job at any point; including when you're in
the middle of it up to your neck, I'll be happy to chat with you. (Either
online or via the phone.) Just drop me a line and I'll send you my home
phone. I did this job myself last year. (And it turned out to be a cracked
head, but I pretty much knew it going into the job.)

...Kevin
87 300TD 282k mi

Christopher McCann said:
 Won't bet either way, we'll have to see. I still don't think it is, esp
 since the gaskets tend to fail behind cylinder # 6 in the exact spot  mine
 has failed. THe failed gasket is new (the failure is new, not the  gasket)
 and it did not overheat since. BUT, I would not be shocked if  it were.
 Part of the big excitement!

   Chris


 Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  I can almost guarantee
 your head is cracked, 90% chance it is.

 Christopher McCann wrote:

  IF the head is cracked, which I doubt, but realize it is VERY POSSIBLE,
  I will get a new one and we'll get the valve job done, etc. Charlie
 has  done all this several times before. The TD will be beached in
 the  driveway for a while till I get a good head, but that's OK. I can
 ride  my bike the entire 6 blocks to work and wifey can drive the SD.
 My Indy  offered Charlie a job, he knows what he is doing (and he's
 psyched  about the OkieQ this year - a MOPAR convert to diesel Benzes).

   Kaleb, you just want me to give up and sell the car for $500! :-)

   Thanks to all for advice and for the relevant job descriptions.

  Oh, I know I need more than a head gasket. I ordered everything I will
 need. They come in sets, ya know: head gasket set and valve cover set.

   Tchüß!

   Chris




 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
   84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
 http://www.striplin.net

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 Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
 -2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
 -1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
 -1985 300SD, 212K, Wulf
 -1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
 -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

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Re: [MBZ] 240D

2006-03-31 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Jim,

I'm way down in western PA, but my 16 y/o son almost has his license and
he'd actually like a 240D! Do you still have it and can you give me some
particulars?

...Kevin

Jim Keefe said:
 Can't keep 3 cars!  This 240D is now $500.  It's in central  MA, runs
 well,
 doesn't like cold weather.  Has a little rust, otherwise good body, dark
 blue, 1982 with 160K miles.
 [EMAIL PROTECTED],com



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[MBZ] OT: 300E stalling intermittently..

2006-04-04 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Kind and Knowledgable List Members,

My Mom has my brother's old 1987 300E. It's in pretty good shape overall
and I've been helping to care for it since she took posession about a 1
1/2 years back.

Lately, she's been telling me that it stalls every once in a while. It
usually happens when she's either idling or creeping along slowly but
after the cars been running for some time. (It happened to her most
recently at a turn pike easy pass drive thru; she slowed to about 5 mph
after driving at speed for about 25 minutes and it stalled on her.)

I took the car for a test drive with her and sure enough it happened to me
too. After we drove around my neighborhood for about 15 minutes, I was
coasting downhill to a stop sign. As I went to pull away, it just died. No
sputtering or anything like that, almost like the spark was removed.

A while back she was having trouble with the car's performance (lack of
power and very poor fuel economy) and I replaced the rotor arm and rotor
cap. I don't recall replacing the plug wires, but I examined them after
coming back from the test drive and they're pretty good looking, so they
can't be very old. I pulled a spark plug and it looked like a well
functioning plug should.

Any ideas where to begin? I seem to recall that the car has about 160k
miles on the clock.

...Kevin




Re: [MBZ] Parts 92 300TE in MA

2006-04-05 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Wow, that's really tempting. How hard to take my 300TD drive train and fit
it to that 92 chassis? Might have to call on it for the int/ext colors.
It's about 25 minutes from my sister's place in Braintree..

...Kevin
87 300TD 282k mi

Frederick Moir said:
 Hi, All.
   Ad reads:- 1992 Mercedes 300IE WGN. Vy gd body  int. New catalytic
 converter, new snow tires,cracked oil pan  front susp. damaged. Have
 title. $600.
   (Cohasset) 781-383-2345.
   No Affiliation etc.
   Body parts for the TD's out there?
   Fred Moir
   Lynn MA
   Dieselitis Horribilis


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Re: [MBZ] Parts 92 300TE in MA

2006-04-05 Thread Kevin J. Slater
I've considered picking it up just to have parts from. I sort of have a
place to store it. If it was really nice and complete inside, it would
probably mean I'd part out the 87 instead. All of this is probably just
dreaming as the wife has a long list of things that would be in front of
any such adventure..

...Kevin

Jeff Zedic said:
 If you pick that car up I'd like the taillights!

 Jeff Zedic
 Toronto
 87 300TD

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Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon

2006-04-08 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Page comes back to me as mime type text/plain. Not sure if it's on my end
(proxy) or on yours. I assume most of folks on this list use IE to view
your pages. I'm using Firefox 1.5 FWIW..

...Kevin

Jim Cathey said:
 Drum roll please.

 For sale, 1979 240D.  302kmi, auxiliary fuel tank.  Perfect
 for biodiesel operation, has 1000 mile range.

 Not perfect, but looks pretty good.  Rust-free.  Reluctant
 cold-starter, but has started every time for me so far.
 Very clean inside, you can date with this car and not be
 ashamed.

 $2500  See http://cathey.dogear.com/mb240dsale.html for
 pictures and more information.

 OK, I don't expect you guys to buy it, I'm planning to list it
 on nearby Craigs lists to start, especially in Seattle.  But I'd
 appreciate feedback on the web site, etc.

 I'm planning to redo the pictures if I can get a nice overcast
 day while it's still clean.  The hazy sun resulted in pictures that
 are much more washed-out looking than the car deserves.  Also need
 to get an engine compartment shot, I seem to have forgotten that one.

 -- Jim


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[MBZ] Cooling problem with my 87 300TD

2006-04-11 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Folks,

I have a few problems with my 1987 300TD and I could really use some list
wisdom tracking them down.

The foremost, and the one I've forgotten about since the last warm days of
last fall, is that my auxillary fan never comes on. On the way home from
work last evening (outside temperature around 68 degrees F) after I got
off the highway and was making my way through some local lights, the
temperature gauge went about 110 (probably over 115) and no aux fan. I
made it home without incident and decided to check out what I could.

Last night, with the key in the run position, I shorted the pins on the
temperature sensor on thermostat housing and the fan came on as it should.
(Didn't sound great, but it hasn't run in months either.) I did the same
with the pins on the high pressure switch and again the fan ran as
expected.

A couple of other datapoints: 1) the car has had the #14 head replaced (by
me) with a #17. 2) I don't have any coolant in the oil or oil in the
coolant problems. 3) previous owner was a hack and I think the aux fan
resistor is missing, or maybe I don't know where to find it. 4) my viscous
clutch for the rad fan is probably mostly dead.

What diagnosis do I need to do to find why the aux fan isn't running?
Eventhough this might not be the only problem, I think if it was working
correctly, I'd get some relief from those high coolant temps in stop and
go traffic. I know the aux fan used to come on at times when the a/c was
on and I was pulling into the garage b/c I would hear it as I pulled in.

...Kevin (Slater, Mars, PA - Marshall I'm extra-signing for you and I'll
come and cut your grass if you help me out!)

87 300TD 282k miles




Re: [MBZ] Cooling problem with my 87 300TD

2006-04-11 Thread Kevin J. Slater
On Tue, 11 Apr 2006, Marshall Booth wrote:

 Kevin J. Slater wrote:
  Folks,
  
  I have a few problems with my 1987 300TD and I could really use some list
  wisdom tracking them down.
  
  Last night, with the key in the run position, I shorted the pins on the
  temperature sensor on thermostat housing and the fan came on as it should.
  (Didn't sound great, but it hasn't run in months either.) I did the same
  with the pins on the high pressure switch and again the fan ran as
  expected.
  
  A couple of other datapoints: 1) the car has had the #14 head replaced (by
  me) with a #17. 2) I don't have any coolant in the oil or oil in the
  coolant problems. 3) previous owner was a hack and I think the aux fan
  resistor is missing, or maybe I don't know where to find it. 4) my viscous
  clutch for the rad fan is probably mostly dead.
  
  What diagnosis do I need to do to find why the aux fan isn't running?
  Eventhough this might not be the only problem, I think if it was working
  correctly, I'd get some relief from those high coolant temps in stop and
  go traffic. I know the aux fan used to come on at times when the a/c was
  on and I was pulling into the garage b/c I would hear it as I pulled in.
  
  ...Kevin (Slater, Mars, PA - Marshall I'm extra-signing for you and I'll
  come and cut your grass if you help me out!)
  
  87 300TD 282k miles
 
 Replace the temp switch if shorting it makes the fan run! When the AC 
 turns on and pressure rises to 250-280 psi, the fan should also run at 
 slower speed (unless the big resistor is burned out).
 
 I've attached an electrical diagram of the circuit (will be stripped 
 from the list copy).
 
 Marshall
 

Ok, maybe I misstated what I did. I'll pulled the connector from the 
temperature switch on the thermostat housing and I shorted the sockets 
that connect to the pins on the temp sensor. This made the fan kick on. 
Are you saying it shouldn't have?

...Kevin
Mars, PA
87 300TD 282k mi




Re: [MBZ] Cooling problem with my 87 300TD

2006-04-11 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Andrew,

thanks for the offer. I need to get this and a bunch of other stuff that
I've been saving up for a Rusty order. If I wasn't concerned about getting
this in a hurry I'd take you up on the offer.

...Kevin

andrew strasfogel said:
 I have a temp. switch really cheep if that's what you need.

 On 4/11/06, Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 On 4/11/06, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 
  Replace the temp switch if shorting it makes the fan run! When the AC
  turns on and pressure rises to 250-280 psi, the fan should also run at
  slower speed (unless the big resistor is burned out).
 
  I've attached an electrical diagram of the circuit (will be stripped
  from the list copy).
 

 Hmm, interesting!  I have the ETM but somehow I never looked at that
 page
 before.  My aux fan definitely comes on at full blast when coolant temp
 gets
 high, but I've never observed it to come on at *low* speed (although I
 guess
 I could have missed it since there would be other simultanous
 A/C-related
 noises masking it).  How common is it for R15 to burn out?  Where's it
 located and what value is it supposed to be?  (My VOM finger is already
 itching.)  And which relay in the fusebox is K10, the auxiliary fan
 preresistor relay?  I seem to recall that nothing back there is labeled
 and
 all the relays look the same.  (But I'd love to test that little critter
 too.)

 Alex Chamberlain
 '87 300D Turbo
 '93 Isuzu Trooper
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Re: [MBZ] Cooling problem with my 87 300TD

2006-04-14 Thread Kevin J. Slater

Marshall Booth wrote:

Kevin J. Slater wrote:

Ok, maybe I misstated what I did. I'll pulled the connector from the 
temperature switch on the thermostat housing and I shorted the 
sockets that connect to the pins on the temp sensor. This made the 
fan kick on. Are you saying it shouldn't have?


If shorting the pins produces fan action (that shows that the relay 
and fan are working) then the temp sensor isn't closing when it gets 
hot and that suggests the sensor/switch is BAD. All of the engine 
compartment temp sensors or sensors/switches are touchy about getting 
wet or being soaked with cleaners. They often fail following a good 
engine cleaning if you haven't shielded them.


The fan should only operate at low speed IF the AC system high side 
pressure reaches 250-280 psi and that may take 5-10 minutes or even 
NEVER happen on a day when temps are much below 75-80 deg. F.


Marshall


Ok, I know that I need to order a new switch. Which I'll do once I 
finish entering some tax data.


I think I caused at least part of the cooling issue by leaving out part 
of the fan shroud the last time I was working in that area. It's the 
part that extends the shroud out towards the fan itself and, knowing a 
small amount about aerodynamics, I'm sure it's quite important to the 
flow of air through the radiator. Things are better now, but I still 
need to see what else I need to do.


Thanks to all for the help.

...Kevin
87 300TD 283k mi



[MBZ] Harbor Freight R-134 guages?

2006-04-14 Thread Kevin J. Slater
I have 3 cars which have R-134 systems in some sort of state of charge. 
Is it worth it to get an inexpensive set of guages to help me determine 
the health of the systems? Only 1 of the 3 vehicles would merit serious 
repair and even that is somewhat of a question at this point.


Does anyone have a pointer to a general R-134 A/C system checkup / howto?

...Kevin
87 300TD 283k mi



Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD cooling problems redux

2006-04-17 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Jim, Casey, Dave, Tan, Johnny, (anyone I missed)

Thanks for the answers. I figured the pump was the suspect, but it's
always good to go to the list for confirmation. There is a wealth of
knowledge here on the list and I'm just happy to be along for the ride.

...Kevin
87 300TD 283k mi

Dave M. said:
 It's either the water pump, or something related the water pump
 housing, which is a separate item from the block. The water pump and
 the t-stat cover both attach to this housing. Photo below:


 http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_timing_cover/engine_stand3.jpg

 http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_exhaust/thermo-tec4.jpg

 Here's a photo of Casey's new housing:
 http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/MB%20Repairs/H2O-pump%20housing-front.jpg



 --
 Dave M.
 Boise, ID
 1994 E500 - 95kmi  (Q-ship)
 1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)


 --
 Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 07:51:02 -0400
 From: Kevin J. Slater [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [MBZ] 87 300TD cooling problems redux


 Well, when it rains it pours.

 I put the 87 300TD up on the ramps Saturday and removed the sound sheild
 after seeing a small puddle of coolant under the car. (My wife says that
 she noticed a puddle the other day as well and neglected to tell me
 about it.) After having a look at various hoses and connections
 underneath and up top, nothing looked bad or appeared to be leaking.

 I started the engine and immediately saw a trickle / dribbling of
 coolant from around the bottom of the alternator bracket. It looked to
 be coming out from behind where it attaches to the block. It wasn't the
 hose that attaches to the side of the engine where the thermostat is,
 nor was it from the thermostat housing itself. In short, I couldn't spot
 the leak, but it's definately there and a concern. Could this be the
 water pump failing? Anything else I should consider before ordering a
 new water pump and tearing into the area of the leak?

 ...Kevin
 87 300TD 283k mi.

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[MBZ] Why no 320CDI choice for the new GL?

2006-04-25 Thread Kevin J. Slater
I don't get MB. You'd think they'd start putting diesel engines in more
cars. I know that folks who buy a new MB can usually afford to put
gasoline in the tank, but at the same time, there must be a large cross
section that would like to be able to say they get really good mileage in
their new XX class MB. Donchathink?

...Kevin
87 300TD 283k mi


-- 
Thank God for Microsoft -- Linus Torvalds



Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD cooling problems redux

2006-04-27 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Ok, last night I replace the old water pump with a shiny new (Geba) one
from Rusty. When I was disassebmling I had a heck of a time getting the
metal fan past the viscous clutch on the front of the water pump. I was
able to get it past with a little bit of wiggle and force.

The same can't be said for the reassembly. I can't see how it's possible
to get the fan back on the front of the viscous clutch without removing
the radiator. (Which I was trying to avoid.)

Anyone been there and done that and have a clue for me before I bite the
bullet and pull the radiator tonight?

...Kevin
87 300TD 283k mi (and holding)

Kevin J. Slater said:
 Well, when it rains it pours.

 I put the 87 300TD up on the ramps Saturday and removed the sound sheild
 after seeing a small puddle of coolant under the car. (My wife says that
 she noticed a puddle the other day as well and neglected to tell me
 about it.) After having a look at various hoses and connections
 underneath and up top, nothing looked bad or appeared to be leaking.

 I started the engine and immediately saw a trickle / dribbling of
 coolant from around the bottom of the alternator bracket. It looked to
 be coming out from behind where it attaches to the block. It wasn't the
 hose that attaches to the side of the engine where the thermostat is,
 nor was it from the thermostat housing itself. In short, I couldn't spot
 the leak, but it's definately there and a concern. Could this be the
 water pump failing? Anything else I should consider before ordering a
 new water pump and tearing into the area of the leak?

 ...Kevin
 87 300TD 283k mi.


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Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD cooling problems redux

2006-04-28 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Dave (and the others that responded),

Typical Mercedes thing. Take the fan off the clutch and it's possible,
though hard to remove. Separated, it's impossible to replace without
removing the radiator. Put it back on the clutch and it's possible to
replace; and I didn't even buy the custom tools.

Thanks for the help Dave.

...Kevin

Dave M. said:
 Kevin,

 It sounds like you are trying to mount the clutch to the water pump,
 then attach the fan blade separately? That would be awfully hard, if
 not impossible. The blade and clutch should stay attached. You install
 the water pump by itself, then drop the clutch+fan down the front and
 bolt it on with the single 8mm Allen-head bolt. This is very, very
 hard to do with the radiator in place if you don't have the bolt
 spinner tool, and the stubby socket. You've got two options:

 1) Pull the radiator. It will be easier in the long run, and gives you
 an excuse to blow the radiator  condenser fins out with compressed
 air.

 2) Buy the stubby socket and fabricate the spinner tool. Photos are here:
 http://www.w124performance.com/images/tools/OM60x_serp_belt_tools.jpg


 With the correct tools (shown in the photo above), I can have the fan
 + clutch removed in literally less than 5 minutes. It's worth the tool
 cost for the time savings if you own a 124/603 and do your own work...

 :-)

 -dm


 --
 Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2006 09:21:22 -0400 (EDT)
 From: Kevin J. Slater [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD cooling problems redux


 Ok, last night I replace the old water pump with a shiny new (Geba) one
 from Rusty. When I was disassebmling I had a heck of a time getting the
 metal fan past the viscous clutch on the front of the water pump. I was
 able to get it past with a little bit of wiggle and force.

 The same can't be said for the reassembly. I can't see how it's possible
 to get the fan back on the front of the viscous clutch without removing
 the radiator. (Which I was trying to avoid.)

 Anyone been there and done that and have a clue for me before I bite the
 bullet and pull the radiator tonight?

 ...Kevin
 87 300TD 283k mi (and holding)

 ___
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 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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[MBZ] Starting a 240D that's been sitting for a year..

2006-05-24 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Dieslers,

it would seem that my 16 y/o son with his newly minted driver's license
have an adventure lined up for this weekend. We've been made aware of a
1979 240D with an owner that would like to move it. The car has been
sitting for a year and hasn't been started in that timeframe. I don't know
whether it has serial or parallel plugs. I've been told it has no major
mechanical problems.

So the questions:

1) What plan of attack should I take in getting it started? Hints? Things
not to do? Think to do? (I know not to use ether for example.)

2) If anyone is familiar with the DMV regulations in VA, what are the
requirements for buying and transporting a car out of state? Obviously,
this assumes driving it away; putting it on a trailer is a known quantity.

...Kevin
'87 300D 282k mi




Re: [MBZ] Quick fix for freewheeling fan clutch

2006-05-30 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Once again, Peter get's the gold star for the most useful information in a
thread.

So I just found out my fan clutch is shot, which I suspected, but wasn't
sure how to test. I recall a while back that Joe had a method for adding
silicone oil back into an empty fan clutch? Is that method detailed
anywhere?

...Kevin
87 300TD 282k mi

Peter Frederick said:
 Actually, the MB test for the fan clutch is even easier -- with engine
 hot (so the clutch should be engaged), shut the engine off.  If the fan
 rotates more than a single revolution more after the engine stops, the
 clutch is bad (i.e. out of fluid).

 Sitting more than a couple minutes, it will ALWAYS be stiff to turn
 unless out of fluid-- the clutch works by filling a slot with high
 viscosity silicone oil to drag the fan blade.  The fluid drains into
 the slot with the engine off, so the fan will drag cold and after
 sitting.  This a good way to tell if the fluid has all leaked out,
 though -- if the fan spins freely cold, the clutch is shot.
 Unfortunately, it can drag cold but not work if the bimetallic spring
 is stuck or no longer springs as the temp changes so that the fluid
 is not directed into the slot.

 It should also roar and move a lot of air for a few seconds when first
 started, then go quiet.  When engaged, it should also roar and move
 large quantities of air.

 Easy to tell in my old Volvo, as the fan sounds like a jet engine, but
 not so obvious on a Benz.

 Peter




Re: [MBZ] Starting a 240D that's been sitting for a year..

2006-05-30 Thread Kevin J. Slater
To everyone that took the time to comment on my questions - Thanks. We got
it started and put some money down to hold it. It took a lot of cranking
and we had to purchase a new group 49 battery to get it going. It has the
dreaded loop glowplugs. We dropped in a clear fuel filter that I had in a
box, turns out no worries about algae yet.

It does have a few issues I'll need to address:

1) The passenger side wiper arm is not moving, but the driver's side does.
Is this a common issue? (I hope not expensive to fix.)

2) The left side turn signals worked fine, when the right side turn signal
was activated, it just buzzed from under the dash near the glove box?

3) Where do I get the loop to parallel glow plug conversion kit?
Rusty/Hursty; you have these?

4) The passenger rear door had no interior door lock / unlock thingy and
the door doesn't open. Apparently, manually locked and power locks aren't
working. Any ideas on approaches to getting this door unlocked and open?

Also, we noticed that the fog lights were clear, this doesn't seem
typical. Comments?

...Kevin
87 300TD 282k mi
79 240D soon?




Re: [MBZ] Starting a 240D that's been sitting for a year..

2006-05-30 Thread Kevin J. Slater
That could well be the problem. I did try to re-thread the door lock pull
knob for a minute and it didn't catch. Since we were just starting our
look at the car at that time I didn't peer down the hole in the top of the
door to see if the threaded rod was anywhere to be found.

...Kevin

Trampas said:
 The door problem could be that the metal rod for the unlock knob inside
 the
 car is stuck under the door panel keeping door locked. Use a coat hanger
 to
 free it up such that it is centered in hole then have someone unlock
 doors.
 This will allow it to pop up and you can open door. Yes I have had this
 happen more than once.

 Trampas

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
 Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 12:47 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Starting a 240D that's been sitting for a year..

 1) The passenger side wiper arm is not moving, but the driver's side
 does.
 Is this a common issue? (I hope not expensive to fix.)

 Not common.  Linkage popped off under the cowl?

 2) The left side turn signals worked fine, when the right side turn
 signal
 was activated, it just buzzed from under the dash near the glove box?

 All bulbs good?  How's hazard lights work?  It's all the same circuit.

 4) The passenger rear door had no interior door lock / unlock thingy
 and
 the door doesn't open. Apparently, manually locked and power locks
 aren't
 working. Any ideas on approaches to getting this door unlocked and
 open?

 Pull inside handle while kicking the door open.  Hope that this works!

 Also, we noticed that the fog lights were clear, this doesn't seem
 typical. Comments?

 Some were clear, some were yellow.

 -- Jim





Re: [MBZ] Starting a 240D that's been sitting for a year..

2006-05-30 Thread Kevin J. Slater

David Brodbeck said:
 Kevin J. Slater wrote:
 1) The passenger side wiper arm is not moving, but the driver's side
 does.
 Is this a common issue? (I hope not expensive to fix.)


 Haven't heard of that one on a Benz, but I've had it happen on a Volvo.
 If you're lucky maybe it's just stripped the wiper arm.  On most cars
 I've had, the wiper shaft is splined, tapered, and made of steel, while
 the wiper arm's center is very soft aluminum.  The steel shaft actually
 cuts splines into the arm when the nut is tightened.  If the arm is a
 little bit loose and the wiper gets frozen to the windshield, the arm
 will strip.  The cure is to remove the arm, clean any metal shreds out
 of the splines on the shaft, and reinstall.  Every time you do this the
 arm will sit a little lower on the taper.  If it gets to the point where
 it won't fit snugly anymore, shim with aluminum foil.  (That said, I
 don't know if Benzes use this particular arrangement.)

 If you're unlucky the linkage has come apart under the cowl.  It still
 might not be too hard to fix.

I suspect you've correctly diagnosed this. On the way home my son and I
were discussing this and he mentioned to me that when the wiper arm was
pulled back from the window, it did move some. That indicates to me that
the linkage under the cowl is ok and maybe the arm is just in need of
remounting. At worst possibly a new arm.


 2) The left side turn signals worked fine, when the right side turn
 signal
 was activated, it just buzzed from under the dash near the glove box?


 Buzzing relays often are a symptom of a bad ground somewhere.  I'd clean
 the ground connections and bulb sockets at the fixtures.  If you've got
 one where the parking lamp or four-way flasher doesn't work, start there.

 Some people have also reported successfully curing turn signal problems
 by cycling the four-way flasher switch repeatedly for a while, like a
 couple hundred times.  The turn signals are routed through there and
 dirty contacts sometimes cause problems, since that switch is rarely used.

I believe the right front marker light was out as well as that turn signal
didn't work so we'll start looking there. Hopefully either just bulbs or
dirty contacts.

 Also, we noticed that the fog lights were clear, this doesn't seem
 typical. Comments?


 Could be they're clear fogs, or maybe someone replaced them with driving
 lights.  Do they throw a wide, flat beam like a fog lamp, or a longer,
 more penetrating one like a driving light?


Bright, sunny, middle of the day lighting made this difficult to
determine. But I think we'll have a chance to check it in the coming
weeks.

...Kevin




[MBZ] 240D from VA to PA, need advice..

2006-06-06 Thread Kevin J. Slater
I'm in need of some advice. I have a car I want to buy that's located in
Virginia. It's been sitting for a while so it's not inspected and it
doesn't have plates. I live in PA and I'd like to drive it back. (Towing
isn't an option b/c of other complications for this trip.) I don't think I
can get plates for it in PA since I don't have the title. I don't think I
want to try to get plates in VA since that would entail paying a bunch of
fees that I'll just have to pay again in PA.

You guys that buy a lot of cars, what do you do? Once I get it back in PA
it's an easy process to get it properly inspected, get the title
transferred and get new plates for it.

...Kevin
87 300TD 284k miles


-- 
Thank God for Microsoft -- Linus Torvalds



Re: [MBZ] 240D from VA to PA, need advice..

2006-06-07 Thread Kevin J. Slater

David Brodbeck said:
 Marshall Booth wrote:
 Have you contacted PennDOT?

 I'm pretty sure there IS a way to do what you want, but I can't recall
 what it is.


 When I bought a car in Pennsylvania, I was able to get a temporary
 cardboard plate.  I went with the seller to the local AAA office and
 they took care of it.  They also notarized the title and bill of sale.
 One stop shopping!

That would be great, but I'm buying a car in Virginia and will be bringing
it back to Pennsylvania (travelling through the Peoples Republic of
Maryland for a short distance on the way).

...Kevin
87 300TD 284k mi



Re: [MBZ] 240D from VA to PA, need advice..

2006-06-07 Thread Kevin J. Slater

John Ervine said:
 John Ervine wrote:

 More responsible individuals, on the other hand, tend to have better
 things to
 do with their time.  ;-)

 Forgot to add - all three trips were done sans license plates, but with
 valid
 insurance on the cars phoned in before I left.  Never had a second glance
 from
 any of the fine law enforcement personnel I encountered along the way.
 Some
 states offer temp tags, but Georgia is not one of them.  With insurance, a
 title, and a bill of sale, I felt I'd be just fine if any situation arose.

And maybe THAT'S a better approach then what I've been toying with; which
is to take the PA plate off my 87 wagon and put that on the 79 240D for
the trip back.

Complications for this retrieval are that I'm going to be in the area with
my family camping (so that rules out trailering it back since the popup
camper will be attached to the Trailblazer) and I don't want to make
another trip down there just to pick up a car. Also, the sale isn't
complete yet. I have given the seller some hand money to hold it, but I
don't have the title, etc.

...Kevin
87 300TD 284k mi



Re: [MBZ] need advice A possibly entertaining story.

2006-06-07 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Part of that trip reminds me of a trip I took from State College to
Virginia Beach one night while attending Penn State. The rest of my family
was down there at a house along the beach and I wanted to join them. My
car at the time was an old Austin Marina 4 door, 4 cylinder, 4 speed.
Sometime after I left I lost the brakes or at least most of them. Since I
was driving in the very early morning during the week on mostly 2 lane
roads through the countryside, I made it without incident. REALLY STUPID,
REALLY FORTUNATE (God's grace if you ask me) and I hope my own kids are
smarter than that.

...Kevin

John Berryman said:

   This is why I ship UPS, Fed-Ex, etc. I sometimes ship my luggage and
 personal effects to travel destinations and travel real light on the
 plane. I had my luggage misplaced and as a result, had to spend a
 couple of days in a hotel in New Orleans. On the airline's tab,
 meals  and drinks included.
   This was when I bought a 300CD from Jason Stearn. It was the day
 after Christmas 2001 when I flew out, they had just started checking
 peoples shoes for explosives. I was checked. Being right after
 9/11/01 their was a lot of tension regarding security. I knew I
 was'nt getting on the plane carrying tools and license plates. All
 legal paperwork and stickers were in there too. I NEVER, EVER
 checked luggage up to then and since. The airline delivered it to the
 hotel intact.
   It was an adventure from the start. There was noise, sounded like
 the diff was gonna blow, it didn't change no matter how I hammered it
 so I sucked it and kept moving. I'm heading out of Baton Rouge to the
 Adirondack Region of NY (note the date). I did'nt realize that
 there's no heat until...yup, you got it. There right rear caliper
 blew. Brakes, who needs 'em?
   I'm running all Interstates all 90-95mph until Tennessee, they'll
 tolerate 80-85 in a 75. The driver's seat is shot, BAD and there's a
 nasty winter storm coming. If I drive straight through, with no sleep
 I can miss the worst of it. Did I mention window regulator broke
 leaving  the window jammed in a cocked position? Well any way, I'll
 have some nice crisp air to help keep me awake, no time to fix, gotta
 beat the storm. Worn Michelin MXVs don't do much on snow and ice.
   You should always behave while driving through Virginia, somehow
 this always slips my mind. The weather got uncooperative in Northern
 Va. and stayed that way for the duration of the adventure. It was a
 weak attempt at a Wintery Mix but still enough to keep one from
 becoming bored riding on those skins. The Norther I go the Colder and
 icier it gets. I'm getting a hint of warm air to the defroster vents
 so I had some de-icing capability and a somewhat clear area for
 forward vision most of the time.
I- 81 through Pa was no day at the beach, the icy hilly roads are
 unforgiving and cause massive pile-ups, often with resultant
 fatalities. Those familiar can give testimony to that. Fate would
 have it, as I crest a hill I see about 1/4mile ahead that there's a
 car on its side , half on the median and two young guys who stopped
 to help. I was driving way ahead of myself and keeping the speed real
 sane but it was a real challenge to get her stopped on front brakes
 only and those lovely tires.
   The kids waved me on saying help was on the way and no one was
 seriously injured. In my mirror, I watch a 17 car pile-up as I drive
 off, I heard the number on the news. There were two more pile-ups
 which I was able to navigate around to avoid being the next crushed car.
   Finally I hit the NY border and settle into a good groove, only 3
 1/2 hours from home and my Sugar Pie. Now that the Demo-Derby on ice
 is far behind me, I realize it's colder than a mother-in-laws kiss
 and my feet are numb. I stop in Binghampton for fuel and drive the
 rest of the way home with sweaters wrapped around my legs.
   We're real generous with the salt up here and this coupe had no idea
 what she was being driven into, as she spent her rust-free life
 between SoCal and The Big Easy. She hasn't seen road salt since that
 night. The rest of the ride was relatively uneventful.
   I got in before the brunt of the storm and awoke the next morning to
 18 of snow. I'm always happy to be home after my many sojourns but I
 was ecstatic after this one.
   Aside for the few mechanical inconveniences I mentioned earlier, I
 had no mechanical trouble, no need to pick up a single tool. The
 horrendous sound that I listened to, trying to ignore all the way
 home wound up being a broken tranny mount.


 Johnny B.
 I Mac Therefore I am

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Re: [MBZ] 240D from VA to PA, need advice..

2006-06-07 Thread Kevin J. Slater

[EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
 Not sure if this has been completely answered yet...

 I live in PA and I picked up my car in Boston with a Maine title.  Have
 the owner send you the title, take it to any tag place in PA and get a
 licence plate.  Take the plate with you when you go to pick up the car.
 Put insurance on the car before you leave and take some proof of insurance
 when you go to pick up the car.  When you get back in PA you will have
 something like a month to get an inspection.  Put the temporary
 registration in the window of the car.

 Hope this helps,

Now we're talking! That sounds like good advice. I'll call the seller and
complete the sale so I can get the title. Thanks for chiming in.

...Kevin
87 300TD 284k mi




Re: [MBZ] A possibly entertaining story, addition.

2006-06-07 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Ha! I remember taking two cross country trips with my family as a youth.
Both times we took 9 kids (leaving either the eldest or youngest of 10
behind) and 2 parents and all fit into a single chevy station wagon. One
lucky small child got to take the space between the middle and rear bench
seats as his own space. (Rear facing rear seat.) That leaves 3 up front, 4
in the middle row and 3 in the rear. And I don't think any of us had
proper restraint. Half of time in the middle row, we turned around
backwards and used the seat as a table to keep us busy. Today both of
parents would be in shackles and the 10 kids would be wards of the state..

...Kevin

Rich Thomas said:
 Damn, how did the human race ever survive without AC in our cars?
 Babies dying everywhere from no AC in cars.  It's a wonder I survived, I
 think my parents had a 49 Ford or some such POS that brought me home,
 and the leaded-gas pollution that thing belched, drum brakes, no power
 steering, NO SEAT BELTS, NO CPSC-approved CAR SEAT, no electric windows,
 no auto tranny, no rear-view video camera, no cell phone or ipod
 attachments, no drop-down vid screens and DVD player, no R stickers,
 no pedestrian-friendly bumpers, no warning chimes telling them to buckle
 up, no DOT-approved tires, no ABS, no radar-powered adaptive cruise
 control, I must be some statistical aberration (in regards to riding
 home in the car anyway).  They told me that they organized the back seat
 with a sheet of plywood over the foot well so they could put blankets
 and such there to make a bed for me to sleep on on long trips (and I
 think there is a photo of that somewhere).  HORRORS

 --R


 Bob Rentfro wrote:

I had a '62 Falcon with the little 170 (?) 6 in it and the 3 on the tree
tranny. My favorite thing was lifting the hood and seeing more driveway
 than
engine. The thing that sucked a bit was that all the '60s Mustangs used
 the
same AC parts as the Falcon. The Mustang boys generally had more sweet
 moola
to lay down for scarce AC parts than young Falcon drivers did.
All of yous guys have your how I about froze story...well the old
 Fal-coon,
with its no AC, gives me an it's too hot story. When boy child was born
(7/21/89) I was ready to take him home because my wife stayed in the hsp
 for
a spell batteling Krohn's, the crusty old nurse would not let me take him
cross town in my piece of crap with no air...you wanna cook this kid?

Bob Rentfro


- Original Message -
From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2006 7:35 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] need advice  A possibly entertaining story.




Falcons were near the model T for simplicity.  I had a friend in HS who
had
one with a gazillion miles.  The auto trans got to where it would not
shift
out of low, so he drove it around (slowly) in low with the engine
screamin'  He later graduated to a 62 falcon van named Butch.  Butch
finally went to the crusher last fall.

At 08:44 AM 6/7/2006, you wrote:


car at the time was an old Austin Marina 4 door, 4 cylinder, 4 speed.
Sometime after I left I lost the brakes or at least most of them.
Since I
was driving in the very early morning during the week on mostly 2 lane
roads through the countryside, I made it without incident. REALLY
STUPID,


I've got one of those.  '60 Falcon, returning cross-state to Cow
 College
(mostly 2-lane roads) after Christmas break with my girlfriend,
 Saturday
night.  Next to no money, of course.  Partway through the trip I
 started
hearing odd little noises, and shortly after passing through a small
town
the noises got not so odd and not so little.  Rear wheel bearing went
out.
Returned to small town to find only service station now closed.
 Decided
to press through, figured we could sleep in the car if necessary.
Bearing chewed itself to small pieces, the heat took out the brakes
(single-circuit), and the geometry change took out the parking brake.
We'd go about 15 MPH for 15 minutes, then stop for 15 minutes and
throw snow on the rear wheel until it stopped hissing.  The trip was
interminable, and definitely a strain on the relationship.  One of the
games I'd like to play in that car was to see how far I could get on my
trips without using the brakes, so I was well-practiced with a
now-needed
skill!  (The tractors on our farmlet had bad brakes, so this was
something
you needed to know how to do.)  By the time we got to the next (and
only)
big town the situation had stabilized, and we decided to continue on
(after a very late dinner) the final 30 miles.

The repair (at the Ford dealership) was actually quite reasonable.
One wheel bearing, a brake slave cylinder rebuild, and a bit of metal
or two for the parking brake.  I think they knew they couldn't put
the bite too hard on college students, and word of mouth definitely
works in a place like that.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 240D from VA to PA, need advice..

2006-06-07 Thread Kevin J. Slater
This is a private seller that plans to simply sign the title over to me. I
checked with the VA DMV's hotline and the helpful person on the phone said
that the temporary transport tag (good for 3 days and a specified start
and end point pair) is good for out-of-state transport as well. This can
be picked up at any DMV service center and requires proof of insurance,
the signed title and payment of the fee.

So eventhough the website says VA residents only, I'm going with that
plan. Thanks to Marshall for pointing out the link on the VA DMV site.

...Kevin
87 300TD 284k mi

Tan Qu said:
 Usually you can get a temporary tag from where you buy
 the car by explaining to them that you want to
 register the car in a different state but want
 something to transport the car legally. You will need
 the title signed over to your name and insurance proof
 for the car.


 Tan

 --- Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Kevin J. Slater wrote:
  I'm in need of some advice. I have a car I want to
 buy that's located in
  Virginia. It's been sitting for a while so it's
 not inspected and it
  doesn't have plates. I live in PA and I'd like to
 drive it back. (Towing
  isn't an option b/c of other complications for
 this trip.) I don't think I
  can get plates for it in PA since I don't have the
 title. I don't think I
  want to try to get plates in VA since that would
 entail paying a bunch of
  fees that I'll just have to pay again in PA.
 
  You guys that buy a lot of cars, what do you do?
 Once I get it back in PA
  it's an easy process to get it properly inspected,
 get the title
  transferred and get new plates for it.
 
  ...Kevin
  87 300TD 284k miles
 
 

 Have you contacted PennDOT?

 I'm pretty sure there IS a way to do what you want,
 but I can't recall
 what it is.

 Check THIS site - esp the next to last paragraph!

 http://www.dmv.state.va.us/webdoc/citizen/vehicles/temp_permit.asp


 Marshall
 --
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned
 questions)
der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
 turbo 237kmi, '84
 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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[MBZ] annoying exhaust leak on OM 603

2005-09-01 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Ever since I swapped my bad #14 head for a better #17 head, I've had a
engine compartment leak of some sort. It's somewhere on the exhaust side,
but I haven't been able to find it. It's rather minor but really annoying,
especially now with fuel prices rising we'll be driving this vehicle (87
300TD) much more. Any pointers on where I should start looking or even how
to help find it?

...Kevin
87 300TD

-- 
Thank God for Microsoft -- Linus Torvalds



Re: [MBZ] W124 sunroof kaput

2005-09-06 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Go ahead Marshall, you tell him..

...Kevin

Dave M. wrote:

Hi all,

I just had a sickening experience... hearing unnatural noises when
trying to open my sunroof (down  back) from a popped-up state.
Something is broken but I can't tell what exactly. There's a bar that
goes across the width, on the rear of the opening... the left side
moves back, the right side stays put. Right now it's stuck/jammed in
the popped-up state, which I guess is better than wide open, but still
doesn't make the car useful in wet weather. Fiddling with it, I can
get the left side to lower partially but not the right. Anyone have
tips on how to get it closed without screwing things up worse? At the
moment I'd be content with getting it shut and then disconnecting the
motor.

I know the general wisdom is to NOT attempt a DIY repair, and take it
directly to a shop that knows how to fix this type of sunroof (very
different than the simple, old W123 style). I'm probably going to end
up doing that but not right away, if possible. I looked up the prices
for some of the parts, and if it needs a new frame (eek), cost of
everything will be $1000 *wholesale* - plus labor!!! (The old frame
was superceded to a new style, which requires a half-dozen extra
updated items, hence the higher cost.)

BTW - this is on my 87 300D. The updated sunroofs started, I think, in
late 1987 model year. Hmm... maybe I could rape the sunroof mechanism
from my parts car! Anyone attemped a DIY repair on these and lived to
tell the story?

:-(

  





Re: [MBZ] W124 sunroof kaput

2005-09-07 Thread Kevin J. Slater
I have no story to tell because I heeded the advice of the wise.

It's just that from time to time, across the 3 mercedes diesel lists that
I've been on for these last many years, every time someone asks my W124
sunroof isn't straight/doesn't close/needs adjustment/needs work Marshall
chimes in with I know of too many people that attempted repair only to
humbly take the parts in a basket to the dealer for proper repair.
(Apologies Marshall, but I gave you your lead in and you didn't take it..)

...Kevin

Gabriel S. said:
 I would like to hear that story, I'm trying to decide what to do with my
 sunroof as well.

 On 9/6/05, Kevin J. Slater [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Go ahead Marshall, you tell him..

 ...Kevin

 Dave M. wrote:

 Hi all,
 
 I just had a sickening experience... hearing unnatural noises when
 trying to open my sunroof (down  back) from a popped-up state.
 Something is broken but I can't tell what exactly. There's a bar that
 goes across the width, on the rear of the opening... the left side
 moves back, the right side stays put. Right now it's stuck/jammed in
 the popped-up state, which I guess is better than wide open, but still
 doesn't make the car useful in wet weather. Fiddling with it, I can
 get the left side to lower partially but not the right. Anyone have
 tips on how to get it closed without screwing things up worse? At the
 moment I'd be content with getting it shut and then disconnecting the
 motor.
 
 I know the general wisdom is to NOT attempt a DIY repair, and take it
 directly to a shop that knows how to fix this type of sunroof (very
 different than the simple, old W123 style). I'm probably going to end
 up doing that but not right away, if possible. I looked up the prices
 for some of the parts, and if it needs a new frame (eek), cost of
 everything will be $1000 *wholesale* - plus labor!!! (The old frame
 was superceded to a new style, which requires a half-dozen extra
 updated items, hence the higher cost.)
 
 BTW - this is on my 87 300D. The updated sunroofs started, I think, in
 late 1987 model year. Hmm... maybe I could rape the sunroof mechanism
 from my parts car! Anyone attemped a DIY repair on these and lived to
 tell the story?
 
 :-(
 
 
 


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 --
 Gabriel Soto
 Southern California
 1987 300D 230K=-




Re: [MBZ] W124 sunroof kaput

2005-09-07 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Bravo! I knew there had to be folks who could and did tackle this job. The
German in me says it should be possible for non-factory trained souls, but
I'm too afraid to leave a gaping hole in the roof of my Mom's 300E to be a
pioneer in this endeavor..

...Kevin

Mike Boerner said:
 Gabriel,
 Mine went about two years ago, same symptoms.  Fixed it myself, but the
 parts aren't inexpensive.  Look at the sunroof RR procedure in the
 manual,
 it'll get you far enough into removal so you can see what's wrong, and how
 to remove the sunroof.  ( This involves popping the sunroof headliner
 loose
 at the front with a flat bladed object, and sliding it forward til it's
 free).  IIRC, the failed parts appear to be approximately $5 worth of
 plastic, namely an item that serves as a ramp for the pop-up feature
 (probably the angle bracket, although I don't have the parts catalog.  You
 should buy and install both sides at the same time, as you don't want to
 do
 this job twice.  I think I wound up with a parts cost of $300-$400, from
 EMB
 in Fairfax, VA, at good prices.  The only problem I had was that one of
 the
 parts came fully dressed, i.e., with piece parts attached, and I had
 ordered
 the piece parts as well, due to the uncertainty caused by the part
 number/nomenclature changes associated with the new design.  I found I was
 able to work around the special tool requirement (I believe a screw and
 wedges served the function), but I also scribed the position of every
 adjustment bolt to aid in its reassembly/adjustment.
 Exclusive of awaiting parts time, this repair consumed the better part of
 an
 entire day (once you've removed the headliner, you should be able to
 figure
 out how to lower the roof-I remember removing the roof panel, removing the
 broken brackets, then re-inserting the roof panel, shimming at the front
 sides to match the outside contour, and taping it shut for about a week
 til
 I ordered parts).  Maybe I'll get it done it in 1/2 the time when my 300
 sdl
 sunroof goes.  Maybe not, judging by how little I can recall now!
 Mike Boerner
 87 300sdl, 87 300d, 01 320ml





Re: [MBZ] OM603 cylinder head removal - special tools?

2005-09-19 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Much easier, IMHO, is to get a couple of lengths of M6 bolt and a big flat
washer that the head of the bolt won't pass through. Then you take a
socket, shallow first, later deep well and thread the bolt with washer
through the socket and into the timing chain guide pin. Then it's a simple
matter of tightening the bolt and pulling the pin. You'll have to add
washers and switch to a deep socket (probably), but it's a pretty
foolproof method. (And believe me, I'm a big fool, so I know.)

Also, I didn't find the amount of force required to break loose the head
bolts to be that bad. It's a bit scary on the first one or two, but after
that it goes pretty easy.

...Kevin

dave walton said:
I used a dent puller for
 the slide rails with a metric bolt that fit inside the tip. The bolt
 will get bent. Don't use one you need.

 -Dave Walton

 On 9/18/05, Aaron Lam [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hello all,

 Tomorrow morning I'm attempting to remove a cylinder head from an 87
 300D that's in a local junkyard. Besides the triple square socket,
 what other special tools are absolutely required? The FSM makes note
 of a few such as the timing chain slide-rail puller, but I figured I'd
 ask because sometimes alternatives can be improvised. Also, can part
 of the exhaust manifold (and the turbo possibly) be left attached to
 the cylinder head when it's being removed?

 PS: If anyone's in the SF Bay Area and can possibly lend a hand
 tomorrow morning, shoot me an email off list...

 Thanks in advance for any assistance,

 Aaron

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[MBZ] Removing the bumper cover on W124?

2005-09-19 Thread Kevin J. Slater
I have some minor rust issues that I want to deal with before fall/winter
on my 87 300TD. I need to remove the bumper cover from the right rear
fender well area. Any tips for the body work impaired?

...Kevin




[MBZ] hard fuel return line leak, how to fix?

2005-09-23 Thread Kevin J. Slater
My 87 300TD has a leak in what I assume to be the metal fuel return line
(judging from the position it eventually connects to the tank).

The leak appears to be under the clamp that holds the fuel lines to the
rear of the car, just above and behind the rear axle. From what I can see
those lines are one piece from way up front to the back. What's the normal
mode for repair? Cut out a chunk and put a flare  compression fitting in?

Argh. Just what I need more time under the car..

...Kevin
'87 300TD 276.9k miles



Re: [MBZ] Removing the bumper cover on W124?

2005-09-23 Thread Kevin J. Slater
I asked about this a while back and only got one reply from a W123 owner.
I don't remember the W123 wagon have the same type of bumper as a W124
wagon, so I figure I'd ask again. If anyone could give me some pointers
before the weekend mechanic work starts, it would be greatly appreciated.

...Kevin

Kevin J. Slater said:
 I have some minor rust issues that I want to deal with before fall/winter
 on my 87 300TD. I need to remove the bumper cover from the right rear
 fender well area. Any tips for the body work impaired?





Re: [MBZ] got my 87 300TD!

2005-09-28 Thread Kevin J. Slater
I had almost the same symtoms. I have records from the previous owner but
it doesn't show when the trap was replaced. I had a bad temp sensor in car
(plus other issues) and managed to overheat the engine on the way home one
time. That was enough to start the process of coolant loss. I was only
using the 300TD to go back and forth to the bus stop so I lived with it
for a while, but the clouds of white smoke in the cool mornings were
really getting outrageous and so I went out and found a #17 head. I think
I paid $850 + shipping from TN to PA. And that was my cheapest find and it
took a while to locate. I'd pay attention to what Dave's saying. He may be
overly cautious on this one, but you don't want to have to find a head,
take it from me.

...Kevin
87 300TD 277k miles

Dave M. said:
 My 617 also likes to keep some pressure in the system when cold, but
 it's not the 15-20psi that I observed with the 603 cracked heads. I
 wouldn't worry about it on a 61x engine, or even 601/602, unless there
 are other symptoms. On a 603 however I'd be monitoring the situation
 very closely.

 Some of you may remember Justin Dobbs from a previous MB email list,
 who had the perssure syndrome and ignored it, as most people do. About
 a year later it started using coolant and then hydrolocked. I think he
 ended up getting a used engine to swap in, something about damage to
 the block surface (I forget though.) I think I heard of nearly a dozen
 failed heads in the past 18 months or so, from the email list and
 various MB web forums.

 FWIW, a brand new head is about $1600 (wholesale) from Rusty... less
 than half that for a good used #17 head.

 =)

 -dm

 --
 Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 11:01:21 -0700
 From: Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] got my 87 300TD!

 My '84 OM617 also maintains pressure in the cooling system for long
 periods, and it hasn't shown any signs of overheating or coolant loss
 to date.  Until I observe some other signs of cooling system
 anomalies, I'll continue to happily drive both engine types like I
 stole em.

 MMMV unter Druck

 Casey
 Olympia, WA

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Re: [MBZ] (no subject)

2005-09-29 Thread Kevin J. Slater

what's a troll?

Gabriel S. wrote:


whats a subject?

On 9/28/05, Chuck Landenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 


Why can't you guys put a SUBJECT in .??? Might encourage folks to
look at what you have to say!!

Just a short rant/request.

Take care,

Chuck
Phoenix, AZ
On Sep 28, 2005, at 12:43 PM, Donald Snook wrote:

   


Harry wrote:



Skip the 420 and 560, if I was going that far for my money I'd go all
the way to a S500. Much nicer than a 560, more power and better fuel
economy



The S500 is a nice car, but I like the lines of the 420 and 560 much
better than the new body. I think the 560 represents what a fantastic
Mercedes used to be.



What is chassis number for the S500 (the older one 92-?)? Is it the
140?






Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn  Herrington, P.A.

300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851

This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.



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why


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--
Gabriel Soto
Southern California
1987 300D 230K=-
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[MBZ] zero oil pressure this am..

2005-09-29 Thread Kevin J. Slater
I was getting ready to back out of the garage this morning and for 
whatever reason I decided to watch the oil pressure gauge come up on my 
87 300TD. It didn't. I thought maybe it was just slower to come alive 
than I remember. Popped the hood and didn't see or hear anything odd. 
Popped the oil fill cap and didn't see the normal amount of blowby. 
Shutdown the engine.


I did do some work on checking the wiring to the aux fan, maybe I 
managed to knock the oil pressure sender line out of whack? What else 
should I start checking?


...Kevin
87 300TD 277k mi



Re: [MBZ] zero oil pressure this am..

2005-09-29 Thread Kevin J. Slater
right, but this is a W124 and uses a signal wire from a pressure sending 
unit on the driver's side of the oil pan. It's the first thing I'll 
check when I get time to look at the car properly.


...Kevin

Mike Canfield wrote:

If it is like my 123's the oil pressure is a line rather than a wireIf 
it were disconnected you would know about it in short order from the oil 
squirting out of the line or fittings.Mike
- Original Message - 
From: Kevin J. Slater [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 7:56 AM
Subject: [MBZ] zero oil pressure this am..


 


I was getting ready to back out of the garage this morning and for
whatever reason I decided to watch the oil pressure gauge come up on my
87 300TD. It didn't. I thought maybe it was just slower to come alive
than I remember. Popped the hood and didn't see or hear anything odd.
Popped the oil fill cap and didn't see the normal amount of blowby.
Shutdown the engine.

I did do some work on checking the wiring to the aux fan, maybe I
managed to knock the oil pressure sender line out of whack? What else
should I start checking?

...Kevin
87 300TD 277k mi

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Re: [MBZ] zero oil pressure this am..

2005-09-29 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Looks like I'm stuck on stupid this morning. The oil level sender is in 
the oil pan and has a wire. The oil pressure sender is on the bottom of 
the oil filter canister.


...Kevin

Mike Canfield wrote:


CoolHope it's just a wire knocked loose then.Mike
- Original Message - 
From: Kevin J. Slater [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 8:45 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] zero oil pressure this am..


 


right, but this is a W124 and uses a signal wire from a pressure sending
unit on the driver's side of the oil pan. It's the first thing I'll
check when I get time to look at the car properly.

...Kevin

Mike Canfield wrote:

   


If it is like my 123's the oil pressure is a line rather than a wireIf
it were disconnected you would know about it in short order from the oil
squirting out of the line or fittings.Mike
- Original Message - 
From: Kevin J. Slater [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 7:56 AM
Subject: [MBZ] zero oil pressure this am..




 


I was getting ready to back out of the garage this morning and for
whatever reason I decided to watch the oil pressure gauge come up on my
87 300TD. It didn't. I thought maybe it was just slower to come alive
than I remember. Popped the hood and didn't see or hear anything odd.
Popped the oil fill cap and didn't see the normal amount of blowby.
Shutdown the engine.

I did do some work on checking the wiring to the aux fan, maybe I
managed to knock the oil pressure sender line out of whack? What else
should I start checking?

...Kevin
87 300TD 277k mi

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Re: [MBZ] Booth Cold Method (BCM) and the OM603

2005-09-29 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Mine isn't very accurate. Shows low even when the level is right between 
the add and full marks. Marshall says that sometimes Mobil 1 will bring 
a flaky sender back around after a while. I replaced the one in the 300E 
to get it back into proper order. Probably do the same with the 300TD 
sooner or later.


...Kevin
87 300TD 277k mi

Christopher McCann wrote:


Herr Doktor,

You will recall the BCM is checking Mobil 1 oil level
after the car has sat for at least 8 hours (cooled
down)...was that advice JUST for the OM617 or does it
also apply to the OM603?

How reliable, in general, is the oil level indicator
in the 87 300TD?

Thanks!

Chris



Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-1985 300SD, 209K miles, Wulf 
(http://www.pictureblogger.com/My-1985-Mercedes-Benz-300SD)
-1987 300TD, 149K miles, Rotkäppchen
-1976 240D, ManyK miles,  AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen 
= Alternative Fuel Test Vehicle)

-1998 Toyota Sienna CE, 101K miles, The Van - FOR SALE $6500 (and that's 
a good deal).



__ 
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
http://mail.yahoo.com


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Re: [MBZ] zero oil pressure this am..

2005-09-29 Thread Kevin J. Slater

Marshall Booth wrote:


Kevin J. Slater wrote:
 

I was getting ready to back out of the garage this morning and for 
whatever reason I decided to watch the oil pressure gauge come up on my 
87 300TD. It didn't. I thought maybe it was just slower to come alive 
than I remember. Popped the hood and didn't see or hear anything odd. 
Popped the oil fill cap and didn't see the normal amount of blowby. 
Shutdown the engine.


I did do some work on checking the wiring to the aux fan, maybe I 
managed to knock the oil pressure sender line out of whack? What else 
should I start checking?
   



The electrical oil pressure sender on the bottom of the oil filter 
housing measures the pressure. IF the sender opens (electrically) or the 
wire fall off, pressure reads maximum (even with then engine off) 
whenever the ignition key is turned on! If the sender (or wiring to it) 
shorts, the pressure read zero (no matter what).


It is VERY unlikely that you have zero oil pressure, BUT IT IS POSSIBLE. 
Until you measure the resistance of the sender (it should read about 10 
ohms with NO pressure and jump to about 185 at 3 bar pressure) I would 
NOT run the engine for more than a moment or two at a time.


The circuit is described in section 54-0254 of the manual/CD and is 
powered (along with the fuel and coolant temp gauges) by fuse 5.


A displaced rubber seal inside the oil filter CAN result in LOW (but 
seldom NO) oil pressure. A stuck over pressure valve (there's one in the 
oil filter and one at the oil pump) can result in low to very low oil 
pressure (but seldom ZERO). This is rather rare, but I can recall maybe 
half a dozen reports (out of about half a million total reports 
received) of this in the last 10+ years. Driving with either of these 
conditions CAN destroy the engine.


Marshall
 

Marshall, thanks for the reply. DON'T add this report to the list of 
zero oil pressure. Turns out that operator of the vehicle in a fog/haze 
caused by rushing out the door at 0'dark thirty read the wrong 
instrument. Oil pressure is in bar on this vehicle not psi.. Enough said..


...Kevin
87 300TD 277k mi




Re: [MBZ] 80 240D For Sale Cheap

2005-10-10 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Larry,

I might be interested. I'll be needing something for my 15 y/o son to
drive in the next 2 or 3 months and this would fit the bill. What is the
condition of the body?

...Kevin

[EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
 You wrote:Not to be a pessimist, but idf all it needed was a new battery
 they would
 have bought one for $50 at Advance Auto. The cynic in me says no start =
 low
 compreession = tired engine.

 You may be right, but the story I was told was the owner was leaving for
 Germany post haste  didn't/couldn't take the time to get a battery 
 install it or have the car taken somwhere  fixed.  Also, at $500, the
 parts
 would be worth more than that - although the trouble to sell stuff may not
 make it worthwhile. But that's my laziness speaking ;-)

 But I've had a couple of people express interest - maybe we'll find out --
 Actually I would have bought it myself but I hardly drive my 78 240D
 enough
 to justify keeping it...

 Sincerely,
 Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 78 240D)

 A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
 For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info


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[MBZ] OT: A guy can dream can't he?

2005-10-11 Thread Kevin J. Slater
I need to replace our people mover 1992 Pontiac Transport van. (Only has
178k miles, but it's getting tired for my beleagured wife.) We need
seating for 6 people and it would be nice if it could tow our popup camper
(about 2200 lbs loaded). So we're looking at Chevy Trailblazers, etc. I
got to wondering, how hard would it be to swap out their inline 4.2l 6 and
drop in a 2.7l turbo diesel from MB? I realize this is completely pie in
the sky, but it's a combo that I could live with!

...Kevin
87 300TD 278k mi




Re: [MBZ] something fishy with this

2005-10-16 Thread Kevin J. Slater
I scanned the referenced url story, but I didn't see anything directly
related to the price if diesel rising.

Usually, the reason that's given for the price of diesel rising in the
fall is the increase in use of home heating oil in the north east. (I
was just up at my sister's in Boston and I noticed the level in her tank
was about 2/5ths. I asked her about it and she noted that they hadn't
filled it for the winter yet, but I'll bet they've been thinking about it.)

George Gregory wrote:

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/5612507/


 
___
GG

- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2005 1:53 PM
Subject: [MBZ] something fishy with this


  

Gas went from 2.39 to 2.29 today, diesel went from 2.94 to 2.99, WTF?
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK





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Re: [MBZ] Torsion Bar Bracket

2005-10-17 Thread Kevin J. Slater
I had a failure of one of my front swaybar brackets. Not sure that it
wasn't damage from the previous owner, but it finally failed when I owned
the car.

...Kevin

87 300TD 278k mi

Marshall Booth said:
 frederick w moir wrote:
 Hi, All.
  Question:- On my '87 190Dt the left front torsion bar bracket
 fractured,
 signalled by an odd and intermittent clunking up front. This car has
 been
 in an accident (front) and repaired, though the clunk started only
 recently. Is this a common event or is this more likely the result of
 the
 previous accident? Enquiring idiot want's to know.
 TIA

 Torsion bar failures are rare except from accident or occasionally after
 20 years from rust in earlier models. I've not had any problems in any
 of my 201s and reports of such failures (except for bushings requiring
 replacement - especially in early 124s) are very rare.

 Marshall
 --
 Marshall Booth Ph.D.
 Ass't Prof. (ret.)
 Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
 Department of Pharmacology  1300 BST
 Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] new fuel record

2005-10-20 Thread Kevin J. Slater
For once I'm feeling fortunate to be in Western PA and shopping diesel. I
can get it for 2.999 or 2.959 at a couple of places within a few miles of
home. Regular gasoline is coming in at about 2.499 at the same stations.

...Kevin
87 300TD 277k mi

Ron Dwelle said:
 New record here in Michigan. Today, diesel was $1.20/gallon higher than
 regular gas--$3.499 for diesel and $2.299 for regular unleaded.

 Ron Dwelle
 (feeling ripped off)


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Re: [MBZ] 240D for sale (still)

2005-10-25 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Would also be a suitable first car for my son. Sounds like better
condition than the one Gregg mentioned a few hours ago, but automatic
(even better, it'll be slower still!).

...Kevin

[EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
 Sorry- the first attempt didn't work right - ;-\

 Howdy -
 Spoke to my friend and he says the 240D is still there - I sent this out
 on
 a weekend before and maybe everyine didn't see it - Sorry about the repeat
 but we'd really like to see someone get this who will get some use from
 it.

 A friend has a '80 240D with about 150k miles on it located in
 Richmond Va
 he'd like to get sell.  He bought it for his daughter who drove it
 for
 several years before buying something else and selling it to a
 neighbor.
 The car was driven until several months ago when it wouldn;t start
 and the
 owner left it in the driveway needing a battery we think.  The owner
 moved
 to Germany and didn't want to spend $100 on a new battery.  The title
 has
 been signed and will not be a problem.

 The car is light yellow with tan interior (IIRC) - auto trans, manual

 windows, -
 fast glow plug kit and was serviced  by the book until it failed to
 start.
 The engine smokes slightly at startup but runs well and the AT shifts
 fine.

 If interested, send me a note directly and I'll provide a phone
 number.
 He wants to get $500 for it.  Would be an excellent driver or parts
 car.
 It's
 such a nice car I'd really like someone to buy it  drive it instead
 of
 parting it out
 but what happens, happens.  ;-)



 Sincerely,
 Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 78 240D)

 A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
 For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info



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Re: [MBZ] Roadside assistance in Stlouis

2005-10-28 Thread Kevin J. Slater
I think if you re-read what you wrote about the person in the original
report, and couple that with your obvious ignorance about the Mercedes
Roadside Assistance program, then you could understand why Luther would be
prompted to use strong language to attract your attention.

Also, this Mercedes ownership journey we're on is a fellowship. Perhaps
Luther feels that when you offend someone else in the fellowship, you
offend him? (Not trying to put words in your mouth Luther.)

...Kevin
87 300TD 277k mi

Gabriel S. said:
 Wow, i don't remember ever personally offending you.

 On 10/28/05, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 YOU IDIOT! This is not about free service for driver error! This is
 about
 Mercedes corporate guaranteeing several free items. 5 gallons of fuel, a
 free jump start, free roadside battery replacement (you pay for the
 battery). This is purely as a thank you for being a loyal MBZ owner.
 You
 totally missed the whole point of his post Think on that for a
 while.

 -Original Message-
 From: Gabriel S. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Oct 28, 2005 11:16 AM
 To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Roadside assistance in Stlouis

 
  there were a few contributing factors to my running out of fuel, not
 all
  of which were my fault

 If you run out of fuel on the side of the road I feel that it is
 completely
 your fault and once again, you should be fined for being on the side of
 the
 road due to that. You should be fined on an hourly basis for creating
 *UNNECESSARY
 LOSS* because of your poor judgement. There is *absolutely no* reason
 for
 running out of fuel other than negligence and stupidity on the drivers
 side.
 *NONE*. Imagine airplane pilots just running out of fuel due to things
 ...no all of which were my fault *MORON*. On top of that he expects
 Mercedes to bail him out of this situation for *FREE?* This guy needs to
 wake up and smell the fresh coffee, if Mercedes is willing to help out,
 than
 fine, but if they don't, who the hell is he complaining? There are no
 free
 rides! Both the tow company and Mercedes Benz are in the business to
 make
 money. What an F'ing loser! I don't know where he's from, but around
 here
 if
 you want a service, you have to pay for it, that's what AAA is for, you
 pay
 and they *have to* tow. I suspect this is the type of person who goes to
 McDonald's and takes back food because it isn't 3 minutes fresh or is on
 welfare. I have to admit, I myself ran out of gas once but I do
 acknowledge
 that it was 100% my fault and would have never expected for someone to
 bail
 me out of it for free or complain about someone who didn't do it for
 free.




 Luther KB5QHU
 Alma, Ark
 '83 300SD (happily running diesel/WVO mix)
 '82 300CD slate grey, black interior, 152,xxx mi

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 --
 Gabriel Soto
 Southern California
 1987 300D 230K=-
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Re: [MBZ] Cracked #17 head!? (was: Portland wagon)

2005-11-07 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Hmmm. I think I'll keep my old #14 head that I swapped out for my current
used #17 head. If the #17 starts behaving like it's kaput, I'll go get
some of that aluminum welding/brazing rod and attempt a repair. The dudes
at the company that sells the stuff figured it would be good for 1200
degrees F anyway.

...Kevin
87 300TD 278k mi, #17 head

Alex Chamberlain said:
 On 11/5/05, Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Wow - that's one of the first, if not THE first, cracked #17 head that
 I've heard of. Could you give us any more details? How it happened,
 where the crack was (beteween valves or valve to prechamber), etc?


 Good question where the crack was.  I never saw the failed head---all
 the work was done by my indy (MBI Motors in Portland, a very
 well-respected shop, and I trust them that it really was a cracked
 head and not just a blown gasket).  Sig, the shop foreman there, said
 that it was not the first post-#14 cracked 603 head he'd seen, either.
  I am seeing him tomorrow (for unrelated issues), so can ask him for
 details then.

 BTW, this was the very same 300D that you had posted about two years
 or so ago---the white one for sale in Sacramento with lots of
 suspension work, good paint, cold AC, etc.  It was in great shape when
 I got it (and still is!), and I bought it partly because it had the
 #17 head and was showing no sign of cooling problems.  After a few
 months it began to show occasional mysterious coolant loss but no
 other symptoms of note before the head failed catastrophically earlier
 this year (suddenly overheating and staying that way when driven more
 than a few hundred feet at a time---just enough to get it on a tow
 truck and to my indy).  :(   All better now with the brand new #22
 head, of course---hopefully for good.

 Alex Chamberlain
 expensive but worth it '87 300D Turbo

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Re: [MBZ] 124 parts needed Deer vs Benz battle to a 27-49 end

2005-11-07 Thread Kevin J. Slater
I thought the rule of thumb was, if it's lower than the hood, run it over
and if it's over the hood try to avoid it. Obviously, if there's no room
or if there are obstacles in the way, you have to plow into the creature.
I've got a new driver coming on line and 3 more to follow and that's what
I plan to teach them.

And no, I don't subscribe to the theory that people are too stupid to
learn proper driving techniques (like our 3rd political party, the
bureaucrats do). It's a matter of training and thinking when you find
yourself in a bad situation.

...Kevin
87 300TD 278k mi

Mike Canfield said:
 I have seen the same thing done to miss deer around here.What
 idiots!  Mike
 - Original Message -
 From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: 'Mercedes mailing list' [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 7:27 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 parts needed Deer vs Benz battle to a 27-49 end


 True story.

 A lady I used to work with swerved to avoid a rabbit  had a head on
 collision with a mini-van. She justified her actions by stating that She
 did
 not want to hurt the poor rabbit.

 Fortunately, no one was seriously hurt, except for the poor rabbit.
 She
 hit the rabbit anyway! I wasn't at the scene of the crime but others
 told
 me
 that She picked up the poor rabbit and cried.

 I threatened to paint small rabbits down the side of Her car and the
 conversation went down hill from there.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 256-656-1924
 www.kegkits.com

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of David Brodbeck
 Sent: Sunday, November 06, 2005 11:57 PM
 To: Mercedes mailing list
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 parts needed Deer vs Benz battle to a 27-49 end

 Loren Faeth wrote:
 The state has been
 blasting out ads to ruin your car, don't swerve in an attempt to
 lower the population they refuse to let people shoot, except in
 limited circumstances.


 The reason they tell people not to swerve is because most people have
 trouble maitaining control of their cars in sudden swerving maneuvers.
 Hitting a deer is rarely lethal, but people *do* get killed when they
 try to avoid a deer and hit a tree or telephone pole instead.


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Re: [MBZ] Columbus CL 240D

2006-01-19 Thread Kevin J. Slater
I'm in the market for a w123 for my almost licensed son. Columbus is an
easy enough drive. If you could have a look for us, that would be great!

...Kevin

Sunil Hari said:
 does anyone want me to take a look at this car?

 On 1/18/06, Brian Chase [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Sort of contradictory to say that the engine needed replacing after
 150k,
 but these engines run forever. I ran into this claim about my 240D when
 I
 bought it. What up???

 Brian
 83 240D

 From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Columbus CL 240D
 Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 18:55:32 -0500
 
 Rick Knoble wrote:
  
   http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/126140059.html
 
 Hey Sunil!
 
 What is that, parchment seats and palamino door panels?
 
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 --
 Sunil Hari
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 513-205-7474
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Re: [MBZ] Sprinter Registration...

2006-01-19 Thread Kevin J. Slater
My bet would be it would be registered as it was sold originally, Dodge,
Freightliner or Mercedes; but Mercedes isn't selling them in the US,
right?

The do-dads are just that, external emblems. You don't think all those
boy-racers that put a big R in their Civic's back window get to register
them as Acura's, do you?  ;-)

...Kevin

Christopher McCann said:
 So does a Sprinter get registered as a Dodge,  Freightliner or Merc? What
 if all the Dodge do-dads are gone and  replaced with stars? (kit's about
 $250, grille, badges, wheel caps,  steering wheel emblem, everything)




 Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
 -2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
 -1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, Nanook
 -1987 300TD, 151K, Rotkäppchen
 -1985 300SD, 211K, Wulf
 -1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
 -1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
 -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

 -
 Yahoo! Photos
  Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays,
 whatever.
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Re: [MBZ] sun roof removal (W124)

2006-01-27 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Way cool Dave! My mom's 300E needs to have some sunroof work. It's a bit
cockeyed in the lift position. I didn't want to tackle in the past given
Marshall's prudent, dire warnings. But if you have pictures and with the
expanded PDF instructions I might try it after all.

...Kevin

Dave M. said:
 Hi Constantine,

 The funky looking Vise-Grip pliers are not really needed. They are to
 get the roof fully seated forward before tightening the bolts. The two
 little plastic install guides are needed, but they're cheap - $1 each.
 And, they take the place of the 'self-made' L-shaped pin mentioned in
 one of the procedures.

 I got the sunroof completely repaired, it works GREAT now. Not nearly
 as hard as expected. The worst part is trying to disassemble it when
 it's frozen shut. Once you're past that, it's just a matter of
 following directions in the manual. I'll be posting more info shortly,
 with a bunch of photos.

 :)

 -Dave M.

 --
 Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 17:27:02 -0500
 From: Constantine N. Polites [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [MBZ] sun roof removal


 Do you need the special tool ( illustrated)  to perform the job?

 Constantine

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[MBZ] OT: 190E questions

2006-02-07 Thread Kevin J. Slater
My son is itching to get a vehicle to cal his own. He has found a local
guy selling an 1989 190E. What are things to look for and look out for.
I wish it was a 190D, but it's a gasser. I had a 300E (1986) that was
totalled (by a driver piling into someone who piled into me), so I know
a bit about the M103. What were the engine options in a 190E in '89? Is
this going to be a destroked M103 in this beast? Any advice or warnings
appreciated.

...Kevin
87 300TD 282k mi



Re: [MBZ] Motor Oil Saver

2006-02-10 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Brother, YOU are on a ROLL this morning!

...Kevin

Curt Raymond said:
 This is an oil thread, and you're doomed.
   I for one believe that most oil additives are snake oil. In fact most of
 them are just viscosity enhancers, you could do the same thing by moving
 to heavier oil. I don't think thats what this stuff is, I think this is
 a cleaner and seal rejuvenator. I agree with an earlier poster who
 speculated that Rusty had gummed up rings. Maybe this stuff helped
 loosen them up.

   Most people don't use Mobil 1 because its expensive and they have no
 idea how long they can run it to recoup the extra cost. Most people have
 no idea about oil analysis and the advantages of having their oil tested
 for a variety of reasons other than just extended oil changes. Quite
 frankly most people are idiots. Think for a second about how dumb
 average American is and then remember that half the people are dumber
 than that... Then remember that we're all dumb about something and you
 realize its amazing that the world has gone on this long.

   -Curt

   Date: Thu, 09 Feb 2006 18:41:08 -0700
 From: Brian Chase [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Motor Oil Saver
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

 You know, I gotta say that I have long wondered if I should be using
 one of
 these oil additives. They sound so great. (Like ProLong, Slick 50, and
 the
 like. There's one that I'm forgetting, the infomercial for which I just
 love
 - has me convinced ever time). I just wish I could try them out on
 someone
 else's vehicle. Seems like there has to be a catch. Sort of like
 switching
 to Mobil 1. It's like, if it was so beneficial, why isn't everyone
 doing it?

 My wife's Honda CRV makes tapping noises every time it's started up.
 Makes
 me want to have something in there to keep things coated. And if I
 could
 extend the life of my old cars, I'd sure do it. Just wonder about the
 side
 effects, e.g. you put this stuff in your engine or tranny and half a
 year
 later something goes caput, leaving you to wonder if it would've
 happened
 had you not made that choice.

 Note: this is technically not an oil thread, so I cannot be
 excommunicated.

 Brian
 83 240D




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[MBZ] 1996 300D for sale in Pittsburgh area..

2006-02-13 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Saw an ad by a private(?) owner in the (PG) Sunday classifieds for a 1996
300D. I think the asking price was under 9k. I can get the phone number
and the specifics if anyone likes.

...Kevin
87 300TD 280k mi




[MBZ] 240D engine is REALLY *LOUD*..

2008-01-10 Thread Kevin J. Slater
My son sent me an instant message yesterday saying the 240D was trailing 
some blue smoke and smelled like it was burning oil.

When I got home last night I started it up and popped the hood. Engine is 
running a lot louder than it had been. It was night, so it's hard to be 
definitive but it did seem to be spewing a little more smoke than normal 
and it did smell of burning oil. The oil level (I checked it before I 
started after the car sat on the flat for 7 hours) was down a bit from 
where it was when I brought the level back up a few days back. We checked 
under the air filter and there wasn't much oil sitting there, so I don't 
think that's the culprit. I did notice pretty significant blow-by when I 
pulled the oil fill cap while the engine was running at fast idle.

So I have more smoke, some oil smell in the exhaust, lower oil level on 
the dipstick, more noise - almost like a loud rap, and lots of cam oil 
pressure. Any thoughts? Could it be as simple as a valve nut that wasn't 
tightened up enough and now has moved? The sound I'm hearing seems to be 
coming from a single piston - that is, it's regular but I don't think it 
happens every time a piston fires.

...Kevin (who'll be checking valve clearances tonight)


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Re: [MBZ] 240D engine is REALLY *LOUD*..

2008-01-10 Thread Kevin J. Slater
No. It idles about the same as it always has. It runs a little rough at 
startup, but that could be a number of things. Smooths out pretty quickly.

...Kevin

On Thu, 10 Jan 2008, Kaleb C. Striplin, work wrote:

 #1 piston probably has a problem.  Does it idle rough too?
 
 ---
 Kaleb C. Striplin
 Cox Auto Trader
 730-Tulsa FSBO Supervisor
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Kevin J. Slater [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 1:43 PM
 Subject: [MBZ] 240D engine is REALLY *LOUD*..
 
 
  My son sent me an instant message yesterday saying the 240D was trailing
  some blue smoke and smelled like it was burning oil.
 
  When I got home last night I started it up and popped the hood. Engine is
  running a lot louder than it had been. It was night, so it's hard to be
  definitive but it did seem to be spewing a little more smoke than normal
  and it did smell of burning oil. The oil level (I checked it before I
  started after the car sat on the flat for 7 hours) was down a bit from
  where it was when I brought the level back up a few days back. We checked
  under the air filter and there wasn't much oil sitting there, so I don't
  think that's the culprit. I did notice pretty significant blow-by when I
  pulled the oil fill cap while the engine was running at fast idle.
 
  So I have more smoke, some oil smell in the exhaust, lower oil level on
  the dipstick, more noise - almost like a loud rap, and lots of cam oil
  pressure. Any thoughts? Could it be as simple as a valve nut that wasn't
  tightened up enough and now has moved? The sound I'm hearing seems to be
  coming from a single piston - that is, it's regular but I don't think it
  happens every time a piston fires.
 
  ...Kevin (who'll be checking valve clearances tonight)
 
 
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[MBZ] OT: anybody have the chevette pulling the trailer video?

2005-07-15 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Since it's Friday, does anyone have the link to that woefully over-worked
compact car pulling the camping trailer up the mountain? I want to help my
brother start the weekend laughing..

...Kevin



Re: [MBZ] ethanol and biodiesel - waste of energy?

2005-07-18 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Cornell and Berkeley, those two bastions of conservative thought.

...Kevin

Loren Faeth wrote:

 WHO funded the study?

 At 03:52 PM 7/18/2005, you wrote:

 http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/ethanol_study

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[MBZ] OM603.960 question on valve stem seals..

2005-07-28 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Folks,

I have a question or two regarding the replacement of the stem seals on
my 87 300TD's engine. From emails to/from Dave M. I gather that this is
the problem causing my exhaust smoke when leaving from a stop with a
warmed up engine. My question is: what exactly is happening to cause
this smoke? I have the old #14 head from my vehicle that I can look at
as a reference for any explanations.

I took a couple of valves out last night and removed the stem seals.
From my old head I can say that the valve guides on the intake side had
less play than the ones from my exhaust side. Is this by design? I have
no desire to even do the valve stem seals at this point and there's no
way I'm removing the head (again), so I guess to some degree it doesn't
matter how worn my current head's valve guides are. But I remain curious
as to how likely a valve stem seal replacement job will be at reducing
my neighbors distaste for my beloved diesel.

...Kevin
'87 300TD 272k miles




Re: [MBZ] OM603.960 question on valve stem seals..

2005-07-28 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Peter,

past emails traded with Dave M. (aka Spudboy) have led me to believe
that it's either the guides or the seals. What I don't get is if it's a
seal (or guide) problem, how does that lead to the puff of blue smoke at
takeoff (and the generally burnt odor of the exhaust as well)?

Peter Frederick wrote:

Kevin:

You can also get blue smoke on acceleration from a bad turbo, along 
with fairly sluggish performance.

A puff of blue smoke on takeoff is probably valve guides or seals, but 
black is something else -- possibly late injection timing.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] OM603.960 question on valve stem seals..

2005-07-28 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Joe,

a couple of things:

1) Looking at Dave's website and then looking at Rusty's site and
comparing, it looks to me like the shop installed OEM seals in Dave's
car, but used the ones for a M103 head rather than a OM603. Check it out
and let me know if you concur.

2) I have a source that will rent me the real deal MB tool. I don't want
to give up my source as I don't know that he would make the offer to
just anyone. (Not that I'm anyone special to this chap..)

...Kevin

Joe Knight wrote:

I don't find anything directly relating to allowable 'play', Kevin,
but the manual does stipulate that the allowable tolerance for the id
of the exhaust guides is almost double that for the intakes.  I do
remember that Dave experienced very similar symptoms after installing
a new head.  Turned out this machinist had installed aftermkt seals
and one of the exhaust valve seals hadn't been properly seated.  Does
seem slightly bizarre but it's difficult to argue with success.

What have you come up with in the way of tools for valve removal/replacement?

joe

On 7/27/05, Kevin J. Slater [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  

Folks,

I have a question or two regarding the replacement of the stem seals on
my 87 300TD's engine. From emails to/from Dave M. I gather that this is
the problem causing my exhaust smoke when leaving from a stop with a
warmed up engine. My question is: what exactly is happening to cause
this smoke? I have the old #14 head from my vehicle that I can look at
as a reference for any explanations.

I took a couple of valves out last night and removed the stem seals.
From my old head I can say that the valve guides on the intake side had
less play than the ones from my exhaust side. Is this by design? I have
no desire to even do the valve stem seals at this point and there's no
way I'm removing the head (again), so I guess to some degree it doesn't
matter how worn my current head's valve guides are. But I remain curious
as to how likely a valve stem seal replacement job will be at reducing
my neighbors distaste for my beloved diesel.



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Re: [MBZ] OM603.960 question on valve stem seals..

2005-07-28 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Joe,

leave the originals alone is just what I did. My #17 head was from a
wrecker down in TN somewhere south of Nashville. I needed to get my car
back on the road so I guess I took the shortcut of not even looking at the
seals. It was Dave M that put me on to the consideration that they may be
my blue smoke problem. The smoke only shows up on a warmed engine, after
idling for a while and then starting off, it produces blue smoke. The
exhaust odor isn't the normal diesel smell either. It has a burnt oil
smell, but worse, maybe b/c of the Mobil 1? (Never burned that stuff so I
don't know what it should smell like.) I did have the foresight to replace
the bad hydraulic valve caps/lifters/whateverthey'recalled.

In any case I still have the question of where is the oil actually going
during this process that produces blue smoke? Is it leaking down into the
combustion chamber and being ignited? Leaked into the exhaust manifold and
vaporizing from the heat? Understanding that process and having a look at
the old head would go a long way towards my confidence about tackling this
job.

...Kevin

Joe Knight said:
 On 7/28/05, Kevin J. Slater [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 ...
 2) I have a source that will rent me the real deal MB tool. I don't
want
 to give up my source as I don't know that he would make the offer to
just anyone. (Not that I'm anyone special to this chap..)

 Good for you, Kevin.  Color me green.  ;)

 As for the seals, you may well be correct.  Can you verify that the
seals used in your new head are the right stuff and properly
 installed?  With a used head that looked to be in good condition and w/o
easy access to the valve tools, I might well have been tempted to leave
the originals alone.


...Kevin
87 300TD 271k miles






Re: [MBZ] OM603.960 question on valve stem seals..

2005-07-28 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Oh great, sounds like I'll be getting the wrong ones then.

Hursty or Rusty can one of you comment? Sku on my order was A8069-23971.

...Kevin

Dave M. said:
 I looked up the part number for OM603 valve seals and ordered them
 (aftermarket) from Rusty wy back during the head replacement job.
 When I replaced them due to the smoking, I ordered the same part
 number from Rusty but this time specified OE dealer parts, and got the
 other style that time. If you look at the EPC, the original OM603 part
 was superceded and MB now specifies the same seal kit for both M103
 and OM603 engines.

 =)

 +dm

 --
 Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 06:42:10 -0400
 From: Kevin J. Slater
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603.960 question on valve stem seals..

 Joe,

 a couple of things:

 1) Looking at Dave's website and then looking at Rusty's site and
 comparing, it looks to me like the shop installed OEM seals in Dave's
 car, but used the ones for a M103 head rather than a OM603. Check it out
 and let me know if you concur.




Re: [MBZ] OM603.960 question on valve stem seals..

2005-07-28 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Kevin wrote:

On Thu, Jul 28, 2005 at 06:42:10AM -0400, Kevin J. Slater wrote:
  

1) Looking at Dave's website and then looking at Rusty's site and
comparing, it looks to me like the shop installed OEM seals in Dave's
car, but used the ones for a M103 head rather than a OM603. Check it out
and let me know if you concur.



FWIW, the receipt from the machine shop for valve seals has a 103 part number.
  


I chatted with Rusty (nice new feature by the way) about this late this
afternoon. He tells me that the only way Dave got different seals from
him was because they still had some in inventory (somewhere). When I
asked him whether I could get the same ones he said no chance. And went
as far as saying if I go to the stealer, they'll give me the M103
versions and not the OM603 version that shows on Dave's site and on the
WorldPac site too. Oh well, I guess I'll have to see what they fit like.
Luckily I have a spare head with some valves still in place so I can at
least get a clue as to whether they'll fit.

...Kevin (Slater - getting to be too many of us, Kevin's that is,
although probably true for Slaters as well..)
Mars, PA
87 300TD 272k miles



Re: [MBZ] Expedition opinion

2005-07-29 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Kevin wrote:

On Thu, Jul 28, 2005 at 06:54:00PM -0400, Wilton Strickland wrote:
  

Expedition = RBV (ridiculously big vehicle).



Not really. If you have seven people and are towing a trailer, expeditions
are actually on the small size. If it's just you, and you're still towing a
trailer, it still might be on the small size. The expedition I drove was
certainly on the small size for the last three trailers I pulled. The 
project truck (88 chevy crew cab dually 4x4) and the backup tow rig (85 F350
crew cab dually) both dwarf the expedition. Even the infamous powerchoke
(96 F250 extra cab 4x4) is noticeably larger than an expedition.

The catch is that it is a teense ridiculous for someone who doesn't have
to deal with a trailer, and instead has to take their two kids to
school, and that's it.
  


As I understand it, this one will be used to move a load of kids, a boat
on a trailer, an ice house in the winter and whatever else my
resourceful brother can drag behind it. I'm not buying one, but I have
different needs and concerns. I don't really care if this thread goes
into the SUV / anti SUV discussion, I really was just looking for some
opinions on whether this was a ticking timebomb or rather something that
could be serviceable. Thanks to all who've taken time to respond.

...Kevin




Re: [MBZ] Pictures from Gary

2005-08-01 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Pretty nice looking car. The rust is getting started in a few places,
but other than that it seems to be in good shape. I can't recall from
the original posting; is the mileage accurate? I'd seriously consider it
for my 15 y/o son, but I think it's too spendy for us.

...Kevin

Gary Schisler wrote:


   
   
 Pictures for you!
   
 View http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=9AZuGjZk3cuLg   
   

 Pictures from Gary Schisler
 http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=9AZuGjZk3cuLg
   
 I have included a Shutterfly website with a handfull of photos taken
 recently of my 79 240D. If th ... more #more

 *From*:   Gary Schisler


 View album http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=9AZuGjZk3cuLg
 (1 of 38 pictures)


 I have included a Shutterfly website with a handfull of photos taken
 recently of my 79 240D. If this doesn't work, email me off-list and I
 will email you the photos.

 *View album*
 http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=9AZuGjZk3cuLg




 Sign up -- Get 15 FREE 4x6 prints
 http://www.shutterfly.com/jump/sign_up_os.jsp?cid=SHAR2NSSUSUM


 If the ‘View album’ button doesn’t work, copy and paste this link into
 your browser:
 http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=9AZuGjZk3cuLg

 Questions? http://www.shutterfly.com/support/form8.jsp



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Re: [MBZ] eBay #4567424013 my 240D

2005-08-09 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Gary,

good luck on the auction. I hope it goes well for you. Looks like the car
I should be buying for my 15 3/4 y/o son, but the wife wouldn't see
eye-to-eye with me on it and I don't want to use the political capital
required to win the decision. IYKWIM. ;-)

...Kevin
87 300TD 275.8k mi

Schisler, Gary said:
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-1979-Mercedes-24
 0D-diesel_W0QQitemZ4567424013QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem



 Listing my 79 240D on eBay.  Come one, come all.  Bid high!  ;)



 Gary

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Re: [MBZ] SLR vs E55 video

2005-08-10 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Happened to catch a british car show on one of the Discovery channels (not
sure which one). They drove an SLR pretty hard around a track. Their test
driver set a new lap record, besting a Porsche GT3 by 1 1/2 seconds. (20
vs 21.5 or so). The sound from the cockpit when he wound that badboy out
were incredible. Not on par with that supercharged 16 cylinder formula one
motor from the 50/60's, but close.

...Kevin

Dave M. said:
 Warning - 20MB file:
 http://www.err0neous.org/mbz/slrvideo4.wmv

 You just know how fast that SLR Mclaren is when you see it totally
 annihilated a car with 476bhp...!


 E55 AMG
 
 5439 cc V8
 476 bhp @ 516.3 ft lbs
 0-60 4.6sec
 155mph (governed)
 Price - $78,550


 SLR McLaren
 ==
 5438 cc 90 Degree AMG V8
 626.0 BHP @ 575.3 ft lbs
 0-60 3.8
 207mph
 Price - $535,281

 :-)

 --
 Dave M.
 Boise, ID
 1994 E500 - 94kmi  (Q-ship)
 1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)

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Re: [MBZ] eBay #4567424013 my 240D

2005-08-10 Thread Kevin J. Slater
If You Know What I Mean  IYKWIM

Schisler, Gary said:
 Yep, IYKWIM is what someone put in their signature line.  Sort of like
 LOL, laughing out loud and ROFL, rolling on the floor laughing, but I
 didn't know what was.  So, I posted it here hoping the author or anyone
 else could enlighten me. ;)

 Gary


 huh?


 Schisler, Gary wrote:

 IYKWIM ???

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Re: [MBZ] 300E head removal

2005-08-23 Thread Kevin J. Slater
I guess that depends on how much mechanical ability you feel you have.
It's not a simple job, but it's not all that difficult either. I pulled
did mine (popped a head gasket) and had a shop clean and check it. It took
me a good while, but I had other wheels to drive at the time so I wasn't
in a hurry.

Redoing the valve guides on M103 Mercedes heads is supposedly a bit
tricky. I'd make sure you have a shop lined up that has done them and is
trusted.

...Kevin
86 300E (RIP)

[EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
 My mechanic thinks the valve guides might be bad, and gave me a quote for
 a valve job.  After I recovered, I started thinking about pulling the head
 myself.  How big a job is this?  It's a 1986 300E.


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Re: [MBZ] One last question on blue smoke before I commit to the valve seals..

2005-08-23 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Marshall,

I did as you suggested and disconnected the breather tube from the valve
cover to the intake. Didn't seem to make a noticable difference. There
does seem to be a fair amount of pressure under the valve cover though.
More than I'd like to see and it could be a contributor.

The head gasket was replaced when the #14 head was replaced by the used
#17 head. I guess I could have screwed it up and I could be getting
leaking past the area between the #1 cylinder and the oil passage next to
the chain vault.

I guess I'm still leaning towards the seals as being the culprit, although
I'd love for it to be something else simpler and easier to fix!

...Kevin
87 300TD 275k mi.

Marshall Booth said:
 Kevin J. Slater wrote:
 Folks,
 I figured I'd ask one last time before I commit to replacing the valve
stem seals on my 300TD's OM603. To recap, the symptoms are:
 - Blue smoke when pulling away from a stop after the engine warms up. -
Amount of smoke seems to grow with length of time spent idling. - Very
little or no blue smoke during starting after sitting overnight. (I
 don't notice it when backing out of the garage/driveway.)
 - Off odor burning smell in the exhaust. (Keeps people off the bumper
though!)
 Marshall and Dave M have both given invaluable input into the
situation.
 What I'm wondering is, could this be something else? Some folks seem to
mention the turbo; which may be easier to service than the replacing
the
 stem seals with the head on the motor? Any input welcome and
 appreciated.
 ...Kevin
 87 300TD 275.8k mi (and pissing off 'environmentalists' everywhere it
goes..)

 The blue smoke could be from the valve stems/seals or any other point of
access to the air ingested. This is a RARE symptom. I would disconnect
the breather line from the valve cover to the air intake, do a few hard
acceleration runs to clear out any possible oil accumulation in the air
intake path and then see if the blue smoke is diminished.

 If there is NO change you can certainly try new seals as that seems to
be the next logical step, but except for Dave's case (where the seal -
perhaps an incorrect one - was improperly installed) new seals seldom
corrects oil consumption problems on diesels.

 Still, the replacement of the seals DID cure Dave's problem.

 The VERY early stages of a blown head gasket (between the #1 cylinder
and the oil passage next to the chain vault) can produce symptoms not
unlike what you describe (the phrase, (o)ff odor burning smell in the
exhaust describes the smell from the exhaust from my 601 engine with
the blown head gasket). As it gets worse the smoke gets worse and whiter
and oil consumption increases - mine reached a qt/200 miles before I
finally replaced the head gasket!

 Are you SURE that the air filter and air intake is unrestricted?? When
was the air cleaner changed?

 Marshall

 --
 Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi
Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
  http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm




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Re: [MBZ] Something practical to combat high fuel prices

2005-08-26 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Yes,

cartels (which is basically what's being suggested, a cartel of buyers of
gasoline) work just great on the open market, just ask any decent
economics professor.

So let's think this through a bit. We're supposed to stop buying gas from
Exxon and Mobil until the prices hit $1.30. Do the people that suggest
such plans really think that people are going to wait around for the price
to drop to the target? If the price that Exxon and Mobil charge drops $.10
below what the surrounding vendors are charging, do they REALLY believe
that everyone won't switch over in droves?! What about if it was $.50
cheaper?! How many would hold out at that price? Think about it.

...Kevin

andrew strasfogel said:
 I received this from a friend in NY today (slightly edited to reduce the
 length)

 WAR ON GAS/DIESEL PRICES

 Do you have a spark of rebellion in you? Would you like to start a
 modern day Boston Tea Party?

 THEN JOIN the RESISTANCE

 We are ALREADY close to $3.00 a gallon and it might go higher!!

 Want gasoline or diesel prices to come down? We need to take some
 intelligent, united action.

 Phillip Hollsworth, offered this good idea:

 This makes MUCH MORE SENSE than the don't buy gas on a certain day
 campaign that was going around last April or May!

 The oil companies just laughed at that because they knew we wouldn't
 continue to hurt ourselves by refusing to buy gas.

 It was more of an inconvenience to us than it was a problem for them.

 BUT, whoever thought of this idea, has come up with a plan that can
 really work. Please read it and join with us!   By now you're probably
 thinking gasoline priced at about $1.50 is super cheap. Now that the
 oil companies and the OPEC nations have conditioned us to think that
 the cost of a gallon of gas is CHEAP at $1.50- $1.75, we need to take
 aggressive action to teach them that BUYERS control the market
 place not sellers. With the price of gasoline going up more each
 day, we consumers need to take action. The only way we are going to
 see the price of gas come down is if we hit someone in the pocketbook
 by not purchasing their gas! And we can do that WITHOUT hurting
 ourselves.

 HOW?

 Since we all rely on our cars, we can't just stop buying gas. But we
 CAN have an impact on gas prices if we all act together to force a
 price war.

 Here's the idea:

 For the rest of this year, DON'T purchase ANY gasoline from the TWO
 BIGGEST COMPANIES (which now are one), EXXON and MOBIL. If they are
 not selling any gas, they will be inclined to reduce their prices. If
 they reduce their prices, the other companies will have to follow
 suit.

 But to have an impact, we need to reach literally millions of Exxon
 and Mobil gas buyers.  If each of us sends it to at least ten more (30
 x 10 = 300) ... and those 300 do the same, it won't take long before
 millions of drivers have been contacted!

 Acting together we can make a difference.  If this makes sense to you,
 please pass this message on.

 PLEASE HOLD OUT UNTIL THEY LOWER THEIR PRICES TO THE $1.30 RANGE AND
 KEEP THEM DOWN.

 THIS CAN REALLY WORK

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[MBZ] spin on filter interchangable from 87 300TD to 79 240D?

2007-01-24 Thread Kevin J. Slater
I have a need to replace the spin-on fuel filter in the 240D. I have one
on hand that I must've ordered for my 87 300TD. Can anyone tell me if
their interchangable between the 2 motors?

...Kevin




Re: [MBZ] local benz for sale

2007-01-29 Thread Kevin J. Slater

Sunil Hari said:
 Local guy selling a 1984 300D- says it has a tranny issue and a coked
 injector.  If I buy it and part it out, who needs what?


If the interior is brown (not sure the official name) we could use the
front passenger side upper seat cover and the cover for the arm rest.

...Kevin



Re: [MBZ] Gutter moulding removal

2007-02-08 Thread Kevin J. Slater
I'd like the know the same thing. There are some screws on our W123, but I
don't think these are the only thing holding it in place.

Peter Merle said:
 How does the chrome gutter moulding come off on the W123's? I need to
 take it off due to the rust raising its ugly head there!
 Peter

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[MBZ] Key / Starter / Starting woes 79 240D

2007-02-08 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Hopefully I can convey what I need to in a coherent manner such that I can
get some advice on a set of interdepedent, related issues with our 240D.

We bought the car used and got 1 regular key and 1 valet key. We have
since managed to misplace the regular key leaving us with only the valet
key. The keyswitch is a bit dicey and requires a touch to operate at times
- I know from past reading that this needs to addressed sooner rather than
later.

At times the ignition switch stays in the 'energize starter' position. The
solenoid seems to let go but you can hear the starter still spinning. (I
saw my son completely remove the key this morning and the starter was
still spinning.) At other times eventhough the key is in the 'energize
starter' position the starter will kick out like you released the key.
Obviously, in cold start situations in low temps this is not a good thing.

So it would seem I need a new ignition keyswitch. But I also have the need
for some new keys and I'd like to keep a single key for everything
(ignition, doors, trunk, glove box). What are my options?

...Kevin
87 300TD
79 240D





[MBZ] OT: Mom's 87 300E hard starting puzzler..

2007-04-09 Thread Kevin J. Slater
I have a plea for the list. I'm trying to keep my Mom's 87 300E on the
road and I only get word when things are bad. Recently she called to tell
me that one day she went to start the car (was probably about 50 F that
day) and it would turn over easily but it wouldn't catch and run. She
stated that the day before all was fine and dandy. She managed to get it
started and came down to my house. She was there for several hours and we
went out to start it in my driveway.

When you could get it to catch and run it ran very rough unless you took
the tach up to about 1800 - 2000 rpms where upon it would smooth out. If
you dropped it down into the 1000 rpm range, if you could keep it from
stalling, it bucked and I could intermittently hear something  like a
backfiring sound through the air cleaner (I was standing outside the car).
If you kept the engine in that higher rpm range for about 5 minutes until
the coolant temp came up to about 60 C, then it would run pretty much
normally at all rpm ranges. Once warmed up there was no loss of power or
misfiring that I could detect.

I checked the air filter and it seemed normal enough. Not sure what to
check next. She did mention that her ABS light has come on now and doesn't
go off. I could be connected or just a weird coincidence. She added fuel
injector cleaner prior to coming down to my house (about 35 miles of
highway). I thought about changing out the fuel filter, but that doesn't
make sense in light of the improvement in running once warmed up.

I would appreciate any ideas. The rest of the family is anxious to get her
into some other car which she won't be able to afford and no doubt will
turn out to be a death trap tin can.

...Kevin
79 240D
87 300TD





Re: [MBZ] OT: Mom's 87 300E hard starting puzzler..

2007-04-10 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Don,

since the car will fire up and run given proper pedal input and cranking
time, I'm leaning more towards a sensor. Even once it does start it takes
a good couple of minutes about 1800 rpm (or else it will sputter and die)
to warm up to the point where you can let the engine drop back towards
idle. What you're describing would seem to point more at the starting
difficulty, but we seem to have something more along the lines of timing
or fuel management issues during start and for a while once running. The
fact that it works after warming up might also point in the direction of a
sensor - flaky when cold, but works better when warm.

OK Don said:
 I'd check the cold start injector (when cold) to see that it is indeed
 squirting fuel. You remove it from the manifold, re-connect the fuel
 line and wire - hold it over a jar or something to collect the fuel
 (should it be working) - and have Mom crank the engine as if starting
 it. If fuel is coming out - that's not the problem.
 I'm writing all this on the blind assumption that the '87 CIS is very
 simliar to my '78 CIS injection system - YMMV.


 --
 OK Don, KD5NRO
 Norman, OK
 Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
 sit there.
 Will Rogers
 '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Mom's 87 300E hard starting puzzler..

2007-04-10 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Mathieu,

thanks for the pointers. I'm thinking you're correct in looking at the
sensors. Makes sense from the perspective of something failing overnight
(so to speak) and fits in with the symptoms going away after the engine
has warmed up.

You mentioned the temperature sensor for the fuel injection. I can't seem
to find that specifically on Rusty's site although there are a few temp
sensors listed for this car. Any chance you could be more specific or give
me a pointer to find the correct one?

Rusty / Hursty?

...Kevin

Mathieu J.Cama said:
 Kevin,

 Things to check:

 Check the fuse on the top of the OVP relay. It is a 10 amp ATC fuse.
 This can cause hard starting when cold and explain the ABS light. It is
 a silver box relay, located near the battery with a fuse (red) on the
 top of it, iirc on a w124. Sometimes, the OVP will still have its clear
 plastic cover on the top.

 Temp sensor for the fuel injection.





Re: [MBZ] OT: Mom's 87 300E hard starting puzzler..

2007-04-18 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Mathieu,

you nailed the problem. I pulled the OVP and it fell apart in my hands. My
brother ordered a new one from Rusty and shipped it to my house. Dropped
in the new one and it fixed the problem completely.

...Kevin

Mathieu J.Cama said:
 Kevin,

 Things to check:

 Check the fuse on the top of the OVP relay. It is a 10 amp ATC fuse.
 This can cause hard starting when cold and explain the ABS light. It is
 a silver box relay, located near the battery with a fuse (red) on the
 top of it, iirc on a w124. Sometimes, the OVP will still have its clear
 plastic cover on the top.

 Temp sensor for the fuel injection.

   Ignition rotor and distributor cap, but this would cause poor running
 at all temps if things were really bad.

 Good luck,

 Mathieu



 On Apr 9, 2007, at 3:43 PM, Kevin J. Slater wrote:

 I have a plea for the list. I'm trying to keep my Mom's 87 300E on the
 road and I only get word when things are bad. Recently she called to
 tell
 me that one day she went to start the car (was probably about 50 F that
 day) and it would turn over easily but it wouldn't catch and run. She
 stated that the day before all was fine and dandy. She managed to get
 it
 started and came down to my house. She was there for several hours and
 we
 went out to start it in my driveway.

 When you could get it to catch and run it ran very rough unless you
 took
 the tach up to about 1800 - 2000 rpms where upon it would smooth out.
 If
 you dropped it down into the 1000 rpm range, if you could keep it from
 stalling, it bucked and I could intermittently hear something  like a
 backfiring sound through the air cleaner (I was standing outside the
 car).
 If you kept the engine in that higher rpm range for about 5 minutes
 until
 the coolant temp came up to about 60 C, then it would run pretty much
 normally at all rpm ranges. Once warmed up there was no loss of power
 or
 misfiring that I could detect.

 I checked the air filter and it seemed normal enough. Not sure what to
 check next. She did mention that her ABS light has come on now and
 doesn't
 go off. I could be connected or just a weird coincidence. She added
 fuel
 injector cleaner prior to coming down to my house (about 35 miles of
 highway). I thought about changing out the fuel filter, but that
 doesn't
 make sense in light of the improvement in running once warmed up.

 I would appreciate any ideas. The rest of the family is anxious to get
 her
 into some other car which she won't be able to afford and no doubt will
 turn out to be a death trap tin can.

 ...Kevin
 79 240D
 87 300TD



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[MBZ] 79 240D blowing #1 fuse?

2007-04-24 Thread Kevin J. Slater
One of my other (non-mb) fleet vehicles conked out and thus I had an
opportunity to drive the 240D again. I noticed that the glowplug light on
the dash came on a few times during a short drive. Later that evening when
headlights were required I noticed that the instrument panel lights were
out. Sure enough the #1 fuse blew. This happened a few weeks back to my
son. I didn't think anything about it at the time. When I went to replace
the fuse, I noticed a white-ish coating on some of the copper supports for
the end of the fuses which to me said there was some arcing going on under
the fuse cover. I looked at the wiring for the glowplugs and I didn't see
anything that looked like it might have shorted.

Anyone have a clue what I should be looking for? I'm pretty sure that the
glowplug light coming on and the fuse blowing are related, but I'm
clueless as to how.

...Kevin
79 240D 160k miles




Re: [MBZ] 124 wagons by the score

2007-05-17 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Curt,

isn't beantown your stomping ground? I know there is at least a couple of
listers up that way. Someone want to have a look and see what the real
scoop is?

...Kevin

Curt Raymond said:
 http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/car/331061885.html
 Something fishy about this, but I'd be interested to know the real scoop.

 -Curt




Re: [MBZ] Now, a liar on craigslist....

2007-05-22 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Gump is a 220D, right? We can't seem to break out of the 22 - 24 mpg range
with out '79 240D. The driving isn't highway, more like secondary 2 lane
roads with a 45 - 55 mph range for the limit.

What do you get when you drive it around town?

...Kevin


Redghost said:
 Gump uses excess gravity, astoglide, and a tail wind.  She is able to
 get up to 31mpg.  Not every day, but at speed for hours on end.

 On May 21, 2007, at 6:19 PM, Gary Hurst wrote:

 i'm amazed by how many of these OM61x cars are advertised as
 getting 40+mpg
 per gallon.  i've owned a number for them and have always been
 between 20
 and 25mpg.  maybe they are harnessing the power of magnetism or
 something
 like that?

 On 5/21/07, Tony Wirtel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 300SD: Rare Gas Saver that gets 45 MPG- don't miss the interior
 shots...

 http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/car/330303412.html

 Same guy jerked my chain on my former 300sd.

 Tony Wirtel

 --
 Clay
 Seattle Bioburner

 1972 220D - Gump
 1995 E300D - Cleo
 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
 The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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[MBZ] 79 240D A/C - where to start?

2007-05-25 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Our 240D has inoperable A/C (manual controls though). We did a quick check
by starting the car and turning the A/C dial to high. Compressor didn't
even attempt to kick in. Aux fan didn't start running either, but it does
spin easily.

Can someone give me a quick list of things to check to get started in
diagnosing this?

...Kevin
1979 240D 161k mi
1987 300TD 262k mi (in the shop getting inspected)





Re: [MBZ] Question for list about 300TD fixer

2007-05-29 Thread Kevin J. Slater
87's? Or are we talking W123's?

Kaleb C. Striplin said:
 Yea, it would have been worth 5-600, its WAY too much right now
 considering a guy has 2 of them he wants me to buy, $2500 for one and
 $3500 for the other.  Both run and drive fine, one has a new head

 Allan Streib wrote:
 It's up to almost $1,300.  I was thinking if I could get it for $500
 it might have be worth sorting out all the problems, but it was past
 that price days ago.

 Allan

 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL,
   89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
   81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
 http://www.okiebenz.com

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[MBZ] WIS part # lookup?

2007-08-17 Thread Kevin J. Slater
I need part numbers for some obscure items on my 1987 300TD:

1) The (plastic?) bushings that go where the gear selection pushrod
connects to the transmission or the bottom of the gearshift lever

2) The boot that covers the bottom of the gearshift lever (under the gear
selection gate in the center console)

If anyone has this and could look them up, it would sure help me out.

...Kevin
79 240D - 179k mi
87 300TD - 287k mi

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[MBZ] W115 240D 4 Speed for sale in SouthWest PA

2007-08-17 Thread Kevin J. Slater
My wife spotted this car in a lot near Cranberry Township, PA. I went by
and had a look. The car is in pretty good shape. There is a small amount
of bubbling beneath the paint at the back of each wheel well. Paint is
very nice overall, chrome is shiny and not pitted. 4 speed manual
transmission. I didn't catch the mileage (forgot to look if you can
believe it), but I do have a phone number should anyone be interested.

And since I'm just down the road I'll even volunteer to check it out
further if anyone wants me to.

...Kevin

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[MBZ] 240D wheel question..

2006-06-13 Thread Kevin J. Slater
One of the items I need to take care of before I attempt to retrieve the
'79 240D I've been looking at is a spare tire. There wasn't one in the
trunk. This car has the wheels with the painted hubcaps (so cool looking)
which I assume means steel wheels? I have a bundt cake wheel from my RIP
82 300D, does the W123 have the same issue with different length wheel
bolts like the W124's do?

...Kevin
87 300TD 284k mi




Re: [MBZ] 240D wheel question..

2006-06-13 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Any chance the wheel bolts from my W124 alloys would work?

...Kevin

Jim Cathey said:
 This car has the wheels with the painted hubcaps (so cool looking)
 which I assume means steel wheels?

 Yes.

 does the W123 have the same issue with different length wheel
 bolts like the W124's do?

 Yes.  If you have an alloy spare you'll need a set of compatible
 longer bolts to go with it.

 -- Jim




-- 
Thank God for Microsoft -- Linus Torvalds



Re: [MBZ] Insurance rates and cheap living

2006-06-14 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Gerry,

I'm right along that route if you want a place to stop for a bite to eat
or whatever. (Depending on your timing.) I'm 25 minutes north of
Pittsburgh and 10 minutes from I-79 on your way up to Erie and points
north.

...Kevin
87 300TD 284k mi

Curt Raymond said:
 Let us know if you come through MA. I've also got 85 acres of prime
 nothing in northern Maine you're welcome to check out if you'd like.

   -Curt

   Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2006 20:46:28 -0400
 From: archer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [MBZ] Insurance rates and cheap living
 To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
  reply-type=original



 Feel free to come and inspect our mountains in the Adirondack Region
 of NY, if the wind blows you that far off course. the Adirondack Park
 is comprised of 6,000,000 acres of public and private lands.

 Johnny B.
 I Mac Therefore I am

 Looked Adirondack Park up on an Eastern US map.  That place is big
 and its
 way up there.  It looks like that from Dave Gilmores place in W.Va I
 could
 go to Pittsburgh, take   I-79 to Erie, and I-90 to I-87 which goes
 right
 through the Park.  From there I'm guessing one could pick a route to
 Maine
 that would avoid heavy traffic nearer the coast.  Never have been
 further
 north in New England than Boston.
 Thanks,
 Gerry


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