[MBZ] OM606 Timing Chain Wear Measure

2010-02-15 Thread Max Dillon
Dieselvolk,

 

I'm trying to measure the timing chain wear on my '95 E300 (OM606).  I
cannot for the life of me find any marks on the camshaft at the #1 bearing
tower.  I've made this check on OM617 and OM603 engines, so I know what I'm
looking for, but this OM606 has got me stumped.

 

Anyone know the trick?  

 

There is a set of marks on the third cam bearing tower and the primary
camshaft (two camshafts on this engine, remember), but they are not easily
aligned for a precise measurement.  When I line them up, it looks like
timing chain wear is about 4 degrees.  There's also a hole in the gear on
the second camshaft, and that hole can be aligned with a hole in the #1 cam
bearing tower.  When I line that up, I measure about 10 degrees of wear!

 

Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 320k miles

'95 E300 274k miles project

'73 Balboa 20

 

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Re: [MBZ] OM606 Timing Chain Wear Measure

2010-02-15 Thread Max Dillon
Answering my own post here.  Searched the archives and found an exchange
between Ned Kleinhenz and Marshall Booth, here's the key part below.

Ned if you're still on this list, I'd like permission to also post this
great tidbit on the MBCA forum and credit to your name.

-Max

--

Glad I took Marshall's advice and replicated the chain stretch measurement
on my '95 E300D with the OM 606.910 engine.  My first measurement on
Saturday was 4 deg.
The subsequent measurements, today, were 3 deg, 2 deg and 2.5 deg.  Think
I'll keep this chain and check it again in 30 or 50k miles.

I discovered an important trick that other 606 engine owners may want to
know -
The cam can be indexed for #1 piston TDC by running a pin through holes
that align the left cam gear and the front cam tower.  One of the bolts that
holds the cam cover on the head is the perfect size to use as this pin.
This bolt will fit tightly enough that I estimate the bolt will only fit
through both holes within  1/2 deg of crank rotation.

When looking at the engine from the front of the car, correct crank rotation
is clockwise.  To measure chain stretch, you must approach the index
postion only from the clockwise direction.  Backing the crank off a fraction
of a degee reverses the play in the chain and makes the measurement
meaningless.

Ned Kleinhenz
'95 E300D x2
'85 300D
'80 300TD

---
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Max Dillon
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 4:37 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] OM606 Timing Chain Wear Measure

Dieselvolk,

 

I'm trying to measure the timing chain wear on my '95 E300 (OM606).  I
cannot for the life of me find any marks on the camshaft at the #1 bearing
tower.  I've made this check on OM617 and OM603 engines, so I know what I'm
looking for, but this OM606 has got me stumped.

 

Anyone know the trick?  

 

There is a set of marks on the third cam bearing tower and the primary
camshaft (two camshafts on this engine, remember), but they are not easily
aligned for a precise measurement.  When I line them up, it looks like
timing chain wear is about 4 degrees.  There's also a hole in the gear on
the second camshaft, and that hole can be aligned with a hole in the #1 cam
bearing tower.  When I line that up, I measure about 10 degrees of wear!

 

Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 320k miles

'95 E300 274k miles project

'73 Balboa 20

 

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[MBZ] cold weather conspiracy?

2010-12-09 Thread Max Dillon
Yesterday our household suffered two vehicle casualties.  First SWMBO's car, a 
'96 Infiniti with about 200k miles, had the left rear caliper lock up while out 
and about in town.  She recognized that something was wrong and handled it 
pretty well, but the tow company took about 2 hours to get her car towed to the 
tire  brake place (Gerald's in Mount Pleasant) that was about 1 block away - 
rather frustrating.  I had to leave work and assist to get her home so she 
could 
use the '87 300TD which has a child seat mounted (she needed to pick up our 
daughter from day care).  I dropped her at the house and departed quickly to 
get 
back to work, but she called a few minutes later to report that the wagon 
wouldn't start - dead battery.  I had to divert to the Infiniti location, 
retrieve that child car seat, pick the daughter and return to house, where I 
put 
the wagon's battery on the charger.  Haven't had time to figure out the wagon 
yet - I suspect the trickle charger which I'd used on it for several weeks ago 
has failed.  Infiniti needed a rebuilt rear caliper, which was done by 5 p.m. 
for $163.  I'm sure I could have done that myself for less, but not by 5 p.m.

-Max
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Re: [MBZ] cold weather conspiracy?

2010-12-09 Thread Max Dillon
If the wagon was fully ready for daily service (need all those suspension parts 
you just sent me plus four new tires) I would have had the car towed to our 
house so I could fix at leisure...  Next time I certainly hope that will be the 
case!

-Max





From: Rusty Cullens buymbpa...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thu, December 9, 2010 10:39:02 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] cold weather conspiracy?

yeah, I have the caliper for $85.00 but it would have been a day away. Too bad. 
maybe next time.


Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
www.buyMBparts.biz
www.buyEUROparts.biz
www.buyASIANparts.biz
Tel/ 1-800-741-5252
Fax/ 770-454-9745
ICQ 427542441
AIM BuyMBparts

- Original Message - From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2010 10:29 AM
Subject: [MBZ] cold weather conspiracy?


 Yesterday our household suffered two vehicle casualties.  First SWMBO's car, a
 '96 Infiniti with about 200k miles, had the left rear caliper lock up while 
out
 and about in town.  She recognized that something was wrong and handled it
 pretty well, but the tow company took about 2 hours to get her car towed to 
the
 tire  brake place (Gerald's in Mount Pleasant) that was about 1 block away -
 rather frustrating.  I had to leave work and assist to get her home so she 
could
 use the '87 300TD which has a child seat mounted (she needed to pick up our
 daughter from day care).  I dropped her at the house and departed quickly to 
get
 back to work, but she called a few minutes later to report that the wagon
 wouldn't start - dead battery.  I had to divert to the Infiniti location,
 retrieve that child car seat, pick the daughter and return to house, where I 
put
 the wagon's battery on the charger.  Haven't had time to figure out the wagon
 yet - I suspect the trickle charger which I'd used on it for several weeks ago
 has failed.  Infiniti needed a rebuilt rear caliper, which was done by 5 p.m.
 for $163.  I'm sure I could have done that myself for less, but not by 5 p.m.
 
 -Max
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Re: [MBZ] ain't our old MBs great

2010-12-09 Thread Max Dillon
I know for my SWMBO's Infiniti, the code is a fixed code from the
transmitter, so theoretically the transmission could be listened to and
copied, and the car would not know the difference.

What does Snopes have to say

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Allan Streib
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2010 4:15 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] ain't our old MBs great

It does seem like it.  I thought modern keyless entry systems used rotating
codes so that even if you captured a code from one event it would be useless
to try to replay it.

Allan


On Thu, 09 Dec 2010 15:09 -0500, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
wrote:
 Hmmm  I wonder if this is an urban MYTH.
 
 On Thu, Dec 9, 2010 at 2:49 PM, glenn brown g_010...@hotmail.com wrote:
 
 
  Forwarded from a friend:
 
  How to Lock Your Car and Why
 
  I locked my car.  As I walked away I heard my car door unlock.  I went
back and locked my car again three times. Each time, as soon as I started to
walk away, I would hear it unlock again!!  Naturally alarmed, I looked
around and there were two guys sitting in a car in the fire lane next to the
store. They were obviously watching me intently, and there was no doubt they
were somehow involved in this very weird situation.  I quickly chucked the
errand I was on, jumped in my car and sped away.  I went straight to the
police station, told them what had happened, and found out I was part of a
new, and very successful, scheme being used to gain entry into cars.  Two
weeks later, my friend's son had a similar happening
  While traveling, my friend's son stopped at a roadside rest to use the
bathroom.  When he came out to his car less than 4-5 minutes later, someone
had gotten into his car and stolen his cell phone, laptop computer, GPS
navigator, briefcase.you name it.  He called the police and since there
were no signs of his car being broken into, the police told him he had been
a victim of the latest robbery tactic -- there is a device that robbers are
using now to clone your security code when you lock your doors on your car
using your key-chain locking device..
 
  They sit a distance away and watch for their next victim. They know you
are going inside of the store, restaurant, or bathroom and that they now
have a few minutes to steal and run. The police officer said to manually
lock your car door-by hitting the lock button inside the car -- that way if
there is someone sitting in a parking lot watching for their next victim, it
will not be you.
 
  When you hit the lock button on your car upon exiting, it does not send
the security code, but if you walk away and use the door lock on your key
chain, it sends the code through the airwaves where it can be instantly
stolen.
  This is very real.
 
  Be wisely aware of what you just read and please pass this note on.
 Look how many times we all lock our doors with our remote just to be sure
we remembered to lock them -- and bingo, someone has our code...and whatever
was in our car.
 
  G. M. Brown
  Brevard, NC
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
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  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] ain't our old MBs great

2010-12-09 Thread Max Dillon
Snopes says it is mostly an urban myth - no confirmed police reports to
substantiate.

http://www.snopes.com/autos/techno/lockcode.asp

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Allan Streib
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2010 4:15 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] ain't our old MBs great

It does seem like it.  I thought modern keyless entry systems used rotating
codes so that even if you captured a code from one event it would be useless
to try to replay it.

Allan


On Thu, 09 Dec 2010 15:09 -0500, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
wrote:
 Hmmm  I wonder if this is an urban MYTH.
 
 On Thu, Dec 9, 2010 at 2:49 PM, glenn brown g_010...@hotmail.com wrote:
 
 
  Forwarded from a friend:
 
  How to Lock Your Car and Why
 
  I locked my car.  As I walked away I heard my car door unlock.  I went
back and locked my car again three times. Each time, as soon as I started to
walk away, I would hear it unlock again!!  Naturally alarmed, I looked
around and there were two guys sitting in a car in the fire lane next to the
store. They were obviously watching me intently, and there was no doubt they
were somehow involved in this very weird situation.  I quickly chucked the
errand I was on, jumped in my car and sped away.  I went straight to the
police station, told them what had happened, and found out I was part of a
new, and very successful, scheme being used to gain entry into cars.  Two
weeks later, my friend's son had a similar happening
  While traveling, my friend's son stopped at a roadside rest to use the
bathroom.  When he came out to his car less than 4-5 minutes later, someone
had gotten into his car and stolen his cell phone, laptop computer, GPS
navigator, briefcase.you name it.  He called the police and since there
were no signs of his car being broken into, the police told him he had been
a victim of the latest robbery tactic -- there is a device that robbers are
using now to clone your security code when you lock your doors on your car
using your key-chain locking device..
 
  They sit a distance away and watch for their next victim. They know you
are going inside of the store, restaurant, or bathroom and that they now
have a few minutes to steal and run. The police officer said to manually
lock your car door-by hitting the lock button inside the car -- that way if
there is someone sitting in a parking lot watching for their next victim, it
will not be you.
 
  When you hit the lock button on your car upon exiting, it does not send
the security code, but if you walk away and use the door lock on your key
chain, it sends the code through the airwaves where it can be instantly
stolen.
  This is very real.
 
  Be wisely aware of what you just read and please pass this note on.
 Look how many times we all lock our doors with our remote just to be sure
we remembered to lock them -- and bingo, someone has our code...and whatever
was in our car.
 
  G. M. Brown
  Brevard, NC
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
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 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 

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Re: [MBZ] ain't our old MBs great

2010-12-09 Thread Max Dillon
Bob - you may want to submit your story to Snopes so that they can update
their web page.

http://www.snopes.com/autos/techno/lockcode.asp

-Max

On Thu, Dec 9, 2010 at 3:58 PM, Bob Rentfro azbob...@gmail.com wrote:
 Nope.it happened to me. I have FB pictures of my car getting
 fingerprinted. Stole everything out of the cabin and the trunk.

 Bob R
 On Dec 9, 2010 1:09 PM, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hmmm I wonder if this is an urban MYTH.

 On Thu, Dec 9, 2010 at 2:49 PM, glenn brown g_010...@hotmail.com wrote:


 Forwarded from a friend:

 How to Lock Your Car and Why

 I locked my car.  As I walked away I heard my car door unlock.  I went
 back and locked my car again three times. Each time, as soon as I started
to
 walk away, I would hear it unlock again!!  Naturally alarmed, I looked
 around and there were two guys sitting in a car in the fire lane next to
the
 store. They were obviously watching me intently, and there was no doubt
they
 were somehow involved in this very weird situation.  I quickly chucked the
 errand I was on, jumped in my car and sped away.  I went straight to the
 police station, told them what had happened, and found out I was part of a
 new, and very successful, scheme being used to gain entry into cars.  Two
 weeks later, my friend's son had a similar happening
 While traveling, my friend's son stopped at a roadside rest to use the
 bathroom.  When he came out to his car less than 4-5 minutes later,
someone
 had gotten into his car and stolen his cell phone, laptop computer, GPS
 navigator, briefcase.you name it.  He called the police and since
there
 were no signs of his car being broken into, the police told him he had
been
 a victim of the latest robbery tactic -- there is a device that robbers
are
 using now to clone your security code when you lock your doors on your car
 using your key-chain locking device..

 They sit a distance away and watch for their next victim. They know you
 are going inside of the store, restaurant, or bathroom and that they now
 have a few minutes to steal and run. The police officer said to manually
 lock your car door-by hitting the lock button inside the car -- that way
if
 there is someone sitting in a parking lot watching for their next victim,
it
 will not be you.

 When you hit the lock button on your car upon exiting, it does not send
 the security code, but if you walk away and use the door lock on your key
 chain, it sends the code through the airwaves where it can be instantly
 stolen.
 This is very real.

 Be wisely aware of what you just read and please pass this note on.
 Look
 how many times we all lock our doors with our remote just to be sure we
 remembered to lock them -- and bingo, someone has our code...and whatever
 was in our car.

 G. M. Brown
 Brevard, NC
 ___
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Re: [MBZ] Violent shudder

2010-12-09 Thread Max Dillon
Sounds a lot like either flex disc or center carrier bearing mount or
something else in the drive shaft.  50k miles on an aftermarket flex disc is
a reasonable life if a little on the short side - did you get OE or OEM?

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Ralph W
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2010 8:07 PM
To: Mercedes List
Subject: [MBZ] Violent shudder

Hello All,

Sorry for the long absence from the list. I haven't had much time for the
diesel fleet the last few years due to extended overseas work assignments. I
also moved recently and had to clear out the parts cars.

Things are back to normal now and I have started driving the old coupe again
('83 300CD). The car has developed a very violent shudder when accelerating
between 5 to 20 mph under a reasonable load. Above 20 mph everything is
smooth again. If I accelerate very slowly the shudder is also not
noticeable. It feels as if something is banging in the area of the center
console. The vehicle is currently at my Indy for a new exhaust system. That
has been installed and can be ruled out. The drive line was also overhauled
about 50k ago with the flex discs and driveshaft hanger bearing replaced.
Indy also put the vehicle up in the air and accelerated the engine and could
not reproduce the shudder so the engine has to be under load. The engine
mounts do not seem to be in too bad of shape but haven't been ruled out as
the cause. Indy has had numerous friends check the car out as they visit and
nobody has come up with a clearcut solution yet. Vehicle was also driven in
reverse at a fairly high speed without experiencing the condition.

Has anyone experienced this condition before? We are hoping to pinpoint the
cause before randomly starting to replace components. It's almost x-mas and
I'm trying to keep the finances in control.

Thanks in advance.

-- 
Ralph Wasserbaech
2001 E320 wagon
1983 300CD
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Re: [MBZ] Way OT -- Food disposer/composter

2010-12-10 Thread Max Dillon
The house I grew up in had a grey water discharge (i.e. from the sinks,
clothes washer, shower, and tub) that simply went down and out over a
forested hill side, and a septic tank for the toilet.  The grey water
discharge must have been well designed, as it never blocked up in the
Wisconsin winter time when the ground was frozen.  I'll bet if your septic
tank and field are large enough, they could handle the additional discharge
of the sink disposer, if you routed all the rest of the grey water to a
different drainage field.  I've seen kitchen sinks with a smaller separate
basin for the disposer, so normal water flow doesn't reach it without an
effort.  Your dishwasher discharge has some food scraps in it - where does
that go now?

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of WILTON
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 10:06 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Way OT -- Food disposer/composter

After the county inspector had finished his business at the house that I 
designed and built 32 years ago, I installed a disposer dumping into the 
septic tank with the rest of the stuff, but we still put the much greater 
percentage of compostable stuff in a compost bucket; most meats, etc., into 
haul-away garbage.  'Still do it that way on the city system.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 9:38 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Way OT -- Food disposer/composter


I am working on the new kitchen.  We live out in the fringe and have a 
septic system, so no running a food disposer into it.  I compost most of 
the veggie waste and such, but was thinking it would be convenient to 
cobble up some sort of sink disposer into some separate composting 
system -- just run a pipe directly from a separate disposer sink into this 
device.  Since it might include meat scraps and such in the stream, it 
would be a somewhat different system from just putting the veggie scraps 
into the compost bin.  Googling does not suggest any sort of solution 
(aside from doing what I do now), but it seems like there would be some 
sort of system that would take all that stuff and turn it into compost 
without anaerobic nastiness.

 The basic idea would be to make it fairly easy to dump stuff in the 
 disposer and it goes into something that I could deal with at my leisure, 
 and not be filling up a can by the sink with veggie stuff, and dumping 
 other scraps in the garbage, and cleaning the sink strainer of nasty goop 
 every now and then.

 Anyone know of any such system or would I have to figure it out?  Or will 
 it not work?

 --R

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[MBZ] Symptom - sinking brake pedal

2010-12-10 Thread Max Dillon
OK folks, check my work here.  After rebuilding the calipers on my '95 E300,
the service manual says to apply hard pressure to the brake pedal for a
short period of time, and then check for evidence of leaks.  When I did this
test, no sign of any leakage, but the brake pedal slowly sank while I stood
on the pedal.  I think the master cylinder is probably bad.

 

This car also has a very soft brake pedal feel compared to my '87 wagon;
feels a lot more like the '72 Buick I used to drive in high school.  I've
bled the system with my pressure bleeder, and now it has new rotors and new
Akebono ceramic pads at all four corners.  All this work did little to
improve the pedal feel (had Pagid pads on it when I got the car).  The car
stops just fine, but the pedal is too soft in my opinion.  This car was
driven by the PO with a failed vacuum pump, so maybe something was damaged
by too much driving with no vacuum assist?

 

 

Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 332k miles

'95 E300 277k miles 

'73 Balboa 20

 

 

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Re: [MBZ] Symptom - sinking brake pedal

2010-12-10 Thread Max Dillon
Peter - yes, a MC is definitely cheaper than no brakes!  In John Muir's
Idiots guide to keeping your Volkswagen ALIVE! he offered that the ability
to stop is more important than the ability to go, a philosophy I subscribe
to.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 4:15 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Symptom - sinking brake pedal

If there is no fluid leak, the master cylinder is bad.  Not a big job  
to replace, and not anywhere near as expensive and suddenly loosing  
your brakes all together!

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Symptom - sinking brake pedal

2010-12-10 Thread Max Dillon
Fred,

That's my thought.  Rusty's quote shows rebuild kit is not too much cheaper
than a new MC, so I'll probably go that route.  (sigh).  The power steering
pump is also leaking...

-Max (with a very expensive cheap Mercedes)

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Fred Moir
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 4:22 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Symptom - sinking brake pedal

Max, et al.
M/cyl bypassing its' seals. Rebuild or replace.
Worse in the cold, seals not as flexible.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA

On 12/10/2010 3:59 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 OK folks, check my work here.  After rebuilding the calipers on my '95
E300,
 the service manual says to apply hard pressure to the brake pedal for a
 short period of time, and then check for evidence of leaks.  When I did
this
 test, no sign of any leakage, but the brake pedal slowly sank while I
stood
 on the pedal.  I think the master cylinder is probably bad.



 This car also has a very soft brake pedal feel compared to my '87 wagon;
 feels a lot more like the '72 Buick I used to drive in high school.  I've
 bled the system with my pressure bleeder, and now it has new rotors and
new
 Akebono ceramic pads at all four corners.  All this work did little to
 improve the pedal feel (had Pagid pads on it when I got the car).  The car
 stops just fine, but the pedal is too soft in my opinion.  This car was
 driven by the PO with a failed vacuum pump, so maybe something was damaged
 by too much driving with no vacuum assist?





 Very respectfully,
 /s/
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD 332k miles

 '95 E300 277k miles

 '73 Balboa 20





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 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] Symptom - sinking brake pedal

2010-12-10 Thread Max Dillon
Pete,

Yes, here's to not falling into Dale E's wreck some category...

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Peter T. Arnold
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 5:06 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Symptom - sinking brake pedal

Sounds like an internal leak on M/C.  O'haul or change it.

Alternative, get a big surprise when going down a hill...


--
Pete Arnold

You win some, You loose some and You wreck some!

-Dale Earnhardt-

On 12/10/2010 3:59 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 OK folks, check my work here.  After rebuilding the calipers on my '95
E300,
 the service manual says to apply hard pressure to the brake pedal for a
 short period of time, and then check for evidence of leaks.  When I did
this
 test, no sign of any leakage, but the brake pedal slowly sank while I
stood
 on the pedal.  I think the master cylinder is probably bad.



 This car also has a very soft brake pedal feel compared to my '87 wagon;
 feels a lot more like the '72 Buick I used to drive in high school.  I've
 bled the system with my pressure bleeder, and now it has new rotors and
new
 Akebono ceramic pads at all four corners.  All this work did little to
 improve the pedal feel (had Pagid pads on it when I got the car).  The car
 stops just fine, but the pedal is too soft in my opinion.  This car was
 driven by the PO with a failed vacuum pump, so maybe something was damaged
 by too much driving with no vacuum assist?





 Very respectfully,
 /s/
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD 332k miles

 '95 E300 277k miles

 '73 Balboa 20





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 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



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Re: [MBZ] Symptom - sinking brake pedal

2010-12-10 Thread Max Dillon
Greg, tell me more about this test for the power assist unit.  Have
Mity-vac!

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Greg Fiorentino
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 5:06 PM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Symptom - sinking brake pedal

A failed vacuum pump can damage the power assist unit.  This can be easily
tested with the Mity-Vac.

Greg

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Max Dillon
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 1:00 PM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: [MBZ] Symptom - sinking brake pedal

OK folks, check my work here.  After rebuilding the calipers on my '95 E300,
the service manual says to apply hard pressure to the brake pedal for a
short period of time, and then check for evidence of leaks.  When I did this
test, no sign of any leakage, but the brake pedal slowly sank while I stood
on the pedal.  I think the master cylinder is probably bad.

 

This car also has a very soft brake pedal feel compared to my '87 wagon;
feels a lot more like the '72 Buick I used to drive in high school.  I've
bled the system with my pressure bleeder, and now it has new rotors and new
Akebono ceramic pads at all four corners.  All this work did little to
improve the pedal feel (had Pagid pads on it when I got the car).  The car
stops just fine, but the pedal is too soft in my opinion.  This car was
driven by the PO with a failed vacuum pump, so maybe something was damaged
by too much driving with no vacuum assist?

 

 

Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 332k miles

'95 E300 277k miles 

'73 Balboa 20

 

 

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Re: [MBZ] Symptom - sinking brake pedal

2010-12-10 Thread Max Dillon
Peter,

No sign of loss of brake fluid from the reservoir, and the engine oil level
is holding steady, so I don't think I'm in that condition yet...

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 5:31 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Symptom - sinking brake pedal

More to the point, a bad MC will fill the brake booster with brake  
fluid, which is a bad thing.  I'm not sure I want brake fluid in the  
oil

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: 1987 Veggie Oil Mercedes - $600 (Centerville)

2010-12-10 Thread Max Dillon
Peter,

Road taxes depend on the state, I believe, and unfortunately some of them
have changed tax code to allow waivers for folks who make their own fuel.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 5:34 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fwd: 1987 Veggie Oil Mercedes - $600 (Centerville)

Actually, it's pretty nasty in soil -- it will wash out and coat  
local waterways with a film that prevents oxygen getting into the  
water, making the waterway anaerobic and killing all the water  
creatures.  On top of that, it's going to spoil and stink to high  
heaven for a couple years -- very poor air exchange in oil saturated  
soil, after all, so the anaerobic bugs will do the job.  Think a  
rancid sewer line.  Very bad.

And yes, you do owe road taxes on all vehicle fuel, even if you make  
it yourself.

Peter

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[MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

2010-12-10 Thread Max Dillon
Worn suspension on my '87 wagon has killed the Continental ContiProContact
tires after about 40k miles.  I'm in the process of rebuilding rear
suspension and installing new front struts, and I need to decide which
replacement tires to get.  Unfortunately Tire Rack had the latest version of
the ContiProContact is on back order (195/65R15 in the 91H service rating),
so I've spent some time looking for something else.

 

Should I go with the 205/60 tires?  It looks like there's more variety and
lower prices for that profile tire.

 

Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 332k miles

'95 E300 277k miles 

'73 Balboa 20

 

 

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Re: [MBZ] Symptom - sinking brake pedal

2010-12-10 Thread Max Dillon
Rich,

OK, I can probably do that.  Wouldn't it be similar to test the brake pedal
before starting the engine to see if the power assist still works after the
car has sat overnight?

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 5:53 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Symptom - sinking brake pedal

You can just put the Mityvac on the suction side of the booster, suck it 
down and see if it holds vac.  If it doesn't then the diaphragm is bad.

I replaced to MC on the TD, getting those line fittings back on the part 
was a nasty unpleasant job.  They are pretty tight anyway with the lines 
being the way they are, and getting them lined up just right to get the 
fittings started can either take 10sec or 30min. While brake fluid is 
all over. Guess which they took...

--R

On 12/10/2010 5:48 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 Greg, tell me more about this test for the power assist unit.  Have
 Mity-vac!

 -Max

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Greg Fiorentino
 Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 5:06 PM
 To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Symptom - sinking brake pedal

 A failed vacuum pump can damage the power assist unit.  This can be easily
 tested with the Mity-Vac.

 Greg

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Max Dillon
 Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 1:00 PM
 To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
 Subject: [MBZ] Symptom - sinking brake pedal

 OK folks, check my work here.  After rebuilding the calipers on my '95
E300,
 the service manual says to apply hard pressure to the brake pedal for a
 short period of time, and then check for evidence of leaks.  When I did
this
 test, no sign of any leakage, but the brake pedal slowly sank while I
stood
 on the pedal.  I think the master cylinder is probably bad.



 This car also has a very soft brake pedal feel compared to my '87 wagon;
 feels a lot more like the '72 Buick I used to drive in high school.  I've
 bled the system with my pressure bleeder, and now it has new rotors and
new
 Akebono ceramic pads at all four corners.  All this work did little to
 improve the pedal feel (had Pagid pads on it when I got the car).  The car
 stops just fine, but the pedal is too soft in my opinion.  This car was
 driven by the PO with a failed vacuum pump, so maybe something was damaged
 by too much driving with no vacuum assist?





 Very respectfully,
 /s/
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD 332k miles

 '95 E300 277k miles

 '73 Balboa 20





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Re: [MBZ] is this worth messing with

2010-12-10 Thread Max Dillon
Kaleb,

Looks to me like if you get this S320, you'd have paid $1200 and done a lot
of work to make marginal improvements to a marginal car.  I wouldn't do that
- I'd sell the S500 or keep looking for a cheaper interior.  What would the
S500 be worth if you fixed everything but the paint?

If you do get it, would those wheels fit on my '87 wagon?  What size are
they?

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 7:01 PM
To: mercedes Mailing List; Dave M.
Subject: [MBZ] is this worth messing with

I think I have asked this before but what is the list opinion, is 
this car worth messing with at $1200 and about 4 hours of time to 
go get?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=230541510629s
sPageName=STRK:MEDWX:IT

It looks like the damage is probably going to be more than just 
swapping a fender, Im betting the metal behind the bolt on fender 
is also bent up.  I have that 94 S500 I have been working on that 
has the cheap 2 tone vinyl seats I would love to get rid of, this 
car has a complete interior in the exact color i need.  The S500 
also needs tires, this car has new tires.  Even if I take the 
parts off this car and put on the S500, it still has 200k miles, 
it still has some check engine light problems to track down, and 
it still has some clear coat peeling off the top.  So is this car 
worth it?  Do I use the parts to fix up the 500 a little, or do I 
just get rid of the 500 as it as break even on it?  Am I talking 
to myself or just thinking out loud?
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] I cant even read this

2010-12-10 Thread Max Dillon
im loosing to much money but its a grat deal  How can you resist Kaleb?

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 7:15 PM
To: mercedes Mailing List
Subject: [MBZ] I cant even read this



 Original Message 
Subject:mercedes benze S500 1994 - $2400 (memphis)
Date:   Fri, 10 Dec 2010 16:08:30 -0800 (PST)
From:   okieb...@striplin.net
To: okieb...@striplin.net



{email} has forwarded you this craigslist.org posting.

Please see below for more information.

Visit the posting at
http://memphis.craigslist.org/cto/2098928922.html to contact the
person who posted this.

--


 mercedes benze S500 1994

Date: 2010-12-06, 5:43PM

1994 mercedez s500 its got a grat engein i payed 2000 dollers for
a 1995 modle engin the only problem i have the transmition wont go
in revorse i have 2 othere transmition that i got but i just dont
have the money to pay some one to droped in the call the engein
got 95000 miles i have over 8000 dollers in this car im willing to
let it go for 2400 dollers i have no place for it and i will give
u the othere to transmiton for free i paed 950 for one of them and
the othere one 1250 im loosing to much money but its a grat deal
call for more info 901 218 1240 901 4625382 please dont send email

 * Location: memphis
 * it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other
   commercial interests

Original URL: http://memphis.craigslist.org/cto/2098928922.html

--

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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: 1987 Veggie Oil Mercedes - $600 (Centerville)

2010-12-10 Thread Max Dillon
In WI the state used to prop up milk prices by purchasing from dairy
farmers, and then had the milk made into cheese to distribute to welfare
recipients and others who relied on state aid.  One summer, one of the state
cheese storage facilities in Madison caught fire; picture tons and tons of
liquid burning cheese.  The fire was tough to put out, and the area
absolutely stank for weeks afterward.

-Max
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 8:31 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fwd: 1987 Veggie Oil Mercedes - $600 (Centerville)

So are sewage and garbage, but I don't hear anyone recommending just  
dumping either and waiting for nature to take it's course!

1000 gal or so of rancid veg oil is going to STINK.  That meets the  
definition of a noxious substance, hence the clean-up.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] EPC

2010-12-10 Thread Max Dillon
Yes, you can have my copies, one of the euro and one of the North American
version.  They are REALLY fiddly and difficult to get working, and now the
part numbers will be long out of date (I think my copies are from 2002 or
so).  Send me your address, and I'll mail you what I've got.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Fmiser
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 9:19 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] EPC

I recall the EPC being discussed here before.   But I mostly
just ignored it.

But I think I care now.

So is there a way to get, install, and use a version of EPC on a
local computer thus making an internet connection un-necessary?

Google's results are not being helpful, so I figure someone here
would know all the answers. *grin*

-- Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

2010-12-11 Thread Max Dillon
There is a General Altimax HP tire in 195/65R15 91H for only $66 per tire,
but no test results to see objective data about how it stacks up...

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Fmiser
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 9:43 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

 Mitch Haley wrote:

 
 For $194 plus shipping/mounting, I'd be all over these if I
 needed tires and didn't see a lot of snow.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BridgestonetireModel=Poten
za+RE960AS+Pole+Positionpartnum=965HR5RE960PPvehicleSearch=falsefromCompa
re1=yestab=Survey

This reminds me.  I'm a bit slow here, but Mitch and his
tire-hunting ability found me 205/70R14 General Altimax RT for
my 123 TD.  What makes these special is the 1635 lb (750 kg)
load rating.   I haul heavy in my wagon, and there seem to be
few 14 inch tires made now with the higher load rating.

I'm quite please with the tires.  They ride well, handle wet
roads well, seem to do fair in the little snow they've seen.

Thanks Mitch!

-- Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Symptom - sinking brake pedal

2010-12-11 Thread Max Dillon
OK, so to diagnose that condition, once I've got the MC off, I presume there
is an opening to the booster through which I can test for presence of brake
fluid?

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Craig
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 10:38 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Symptom - sinking brake pedal

On Fri, 10 Dec 2010 17:50:15 -0500 Max Dillon
meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 Peter,
 
 No sign of loss of brake fluid from the reservoir, and the engine oil
 level is holding steady, so I don't think I'm in that condition yet...

But you don't need enough brake fluid in the brake booster to cause it to
be sucked into the engine to have enough brake fluid in the booster to
ruin it.


Craig



 -Max
 
 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
 [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Peter Frederick
 Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 5:31 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Symptom - sinking brake pedal
 
 More to the point, a bad MC will fill the brake booster with brake  
 fluid, which is a bad thing.  I'm not sure I want brake fluid in the  
 oil
 
 Peter
 
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Craig

--
Present:'94 E420117 kmi
'82 240D/3.0264 kmi
Past:   '86 190E/2.3
'72 220/8
'64 190Dc
'72 220D/8

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Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

2010-12-11 Thread Max Dillon
Loren,

Can you tell me the exact model/size?

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Dieselhead
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 11:45 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

I have similar BS Potenza tires on my 300D 124.  They seem to grip 
well, but don't look like they will set records for long mileage, but 
I prefer grip over uber high mile tires the slip when wet and are 
worthless on snow and ice.  I think they are a good all round choice 
for safety.


For $194 plus shipping/mounting, I'd be all over these if I needed 
tires and didn't see a lot of snow.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BridgestonetireModel=Pote
nza+RE960AS+Pole+Positionpartnum=965HR5RE960PPvehicleSearch=falsefromComp
are1=yestab=Survey

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Re: [MBZ] EPC

2010-12-11 Thread Max Dillon
Maybe what you really want is the parts book for your car(s)?  The parts
book has all the exploded diagrams found in the EPC showing all the parts,
but no numbers, just a picture.  Very useful at the Dealer parts counter.  I
have one for my wagon, will probably try to get one for my E300.

The part numbers get superseded, so the number changes.  If you tried to
order the old part, I'll bet that Rusty or the dealer should be able to tell
you the new part number rather easily.  Some things like interior parts are
NLA, but the EPC doesn't tell you that, Tom Hanson at the Classic Center is
the ultimate authority for those parts.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Fmiser
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 11:47 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] EPC

 Max Dillon wrote:

 Yes, you can have my copies, one of the euro and one of the
 North American version.  They are REALLY fiddly and difficult
 to get working, and now the part numbers will be long out of
 date (I think my copies are from 2002 or so).  Send me your
 address, and I'll mail you what I've got.

Part numbers get out of date?

Like part become unavailable, or are merged with other numbers,
or superseded?

Or do they actually change a number?

I suspect that an old number is easier to cross-reference than
description like the little seal like piece at the back of the
shaft on the pump itself, on the inboard side of the drive
coupler

--Philip, now with two offers...

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Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

2010-12-11 Thread Max Dillon
So does anyone on this list run 205/60R15 tires on a 124?  I'd like to stay
with the factory rating, but I'm considering whatever trade-off may be
required if I can save $100 or so.

I suspect the trade-off will be in fuel consumption (worse), speedometer
accuracy, and handling; I'd like to know more about the handling part.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 11:59 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

These 195 tires are getting to be a problem to find if my experience is 
any indication.  And MBs seem to require a particular load rating due to 
the general heavy nature and handling requirements, which are even more 
difficult to find in a 195 (if you follow the rules) for these older 
cars.  205s seem easier to find for the application, I'm not sure that 
small difference will make much difference to anything noticeable, but 
I'm sure there is some aspect to that I am not aware of.

--R

On 12/10/2010 6:34 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 Worn suspension on my '87 wagon has killed the Continental ContiProContact
 tires after about 40k miles.  I'm in the process of rebuilding rear
 suspension and installing new front struts, and I need to decide which
 replacement tires to get.  Unfortunately Tire Rack had the latest version
of
 the ContiProContact is on back order (195/65R15 in the 91H service
rating),
 so I've spent some time looking for something else.



 Should I go with the 205/60 tires?  It looks like there's more variety and
 lower prices for that profile tire.



 Very respectfully,
 /s/
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD 332k miles

 '95 E300 277k miles

 '73 Balboa 20





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Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

2010-12-11 Thread Max Dillon
I've been playing with the review sorting option for the General and the
Potenza in 195/65R15, sorting on Mercedes owners, and find that many of the
complainers have symptoms consistent with either no rotations, poor
alignment, worn out suspension, or under inflation.  The rest of the MB
owners really like the tires, but many of those are newer cars which almost
certainly means larger tires.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2010 8:18 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

Max Dillon wrote:
 There is a General Altimax HP tire in 195/65R15 91H for only $66 per tire,
 but no test results to see objective data about how it stacks up...

I have those on an Olds Achieva. Rated at 51psi, I keep them at least 40psi.
Hmm, that gives me an idea. I blew them up to 51 last month, maybe I'll
regain 
some snow traction if I drop them back to 40. If you run them on a Mercedes 
weight car at 30psi it will probably feel like you're driving on flat tires.
I sorted the tire rack reviews lowest first, and most of what I see people 
complaining about could be explained by under inflation.

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Re: [MBZ] MBNA Cheaps out

2010-12-11 Thread Max Dillon
That is very disappointing.  Some of the Asian car makers are offering
superior roadside assistance compared to MB, and it also goes with the car
regardless of owner.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Dieselhead
Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2010 1:35 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] MBNA Cheaps out

I got a letter from MBNA saying that they are expanding coverage by 
dropping the service for anyone who does not get their car regularly 
serviced at a MB stealership.

If your car is under warranty, you are still covered.  If you don't 
buy your car from a stealership you will never be covered.

The MB Roadside Assistance was a cool thing.  Now it is not.

RIP MB Roadside Assistance.

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[MBZ] More W124 rear suspension rebuilding

2010-12-11 Thread Max Dillon
Dieselvolk,

 

This a.m. I dove into rebuilding the rear suspension on my '87 wagon.
Started by pulling the spring link on the right side, and replaced the inner
bushing using a piece of 3/8 acme threaded rod.  Took about 2.5 hours to do
that.

 

Incidentally, the sleeve for the inner bushing is not tapered on this car
like it was on my '95 E300.  Replacement bushing is same part number as for
the  '95.  The original bushing in this '87 300TD has a head at one end of
the inner-most sleeve, which I had to cut off in order to get clearance to
push the bushing out.

 

 

Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 332k miles

'95 E300 277k miles 

'73 Balboa 20

 

 

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Re: [MBZ] Symptom - sinking brake pedal

2010-12-11 Thread Max Dillon
Thanks Fred.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Fred Moir
Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2010 12:30 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Symptom - sinking brake pedal

Yup.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA


On 12/11/2010 7:37 AM, Max Dillon wrote:
 OK, so to diagnose that condition, once I've got the MC off, I presume
there
 is an opening to the booster through which I can test for presence of
brake
 fluid?

 -Max


 Peter,

 No sign of loss of brake fluid from the reservoir, and the engine oil
 level is holding steady, so I don't think I'm in that condition yet...
  
 But you don't need enough brake fluid in the brake booster to cause it to
 be sucked into the engine to have enough brake fluid in the booster to
 ruin it.


 Craig


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Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

2010-12-11 Thread Max Dillon
OK, looks like I've got to decide between these two 195/65R15 91H tires:

Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Position ($194 for 4 tires - special price
for December)
-or-
General Altimax HP ($264 for 4 tires).

Methinks I'll go with the Bridgestone...

-Max
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Dieselhead
Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2010 9:13 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

I put 205s I got for the 126 on the front of the 300TD.  THey did not 
rub, but they don't handl right and they don't look right.  They 
won't help anything (except your wallet if you already own 205s)  I 
do not recommend 205s on a 124.


So does anyone on this list run 205/60R15 tires on a 124?  I'd like to stay
with the factory rating, but I'm considering whatever trade-off may be
required if I can save $100 or so.

I suspect the trade-off will be in fuel consumption (worse), speedometer
accuracy, and handling; I'd like to know more about the handling part.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 11:59 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

These 195 tires are getting to be a problem to find if my experience is
any indication.  And MBs seem to require a particular load rating due to
the general heavy nature and handling requirements, which are even more
difficult to find in a 195 (if you follow the rules) for these older
cars.  205s seem easier to find for the application, I'm not sure that
small difference will make much difference to anything noticeable, but
I'm sure there is some aspect to that I am not aware of.

--R

On 12/10/2010 6:34 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
  Worn suspension on my '87 wagon has killed the Continental
ContiProContact
  tires after about 40k miles.  I'm in the process of rebuilding rear
  suspension and installing new front struts, and I need to decide which
  replacement tires to get.  Unfortunately Tire Rack had the latest
version
of
  the ContiProContact is on back order (195/65R15 in the 91H service
rating),
  so I've spent some time looking for something else.



  Should I go with the 205/60 tires?  It looks like there's more variety
and
  lower prices for that profile tire.



  Very respectfully,
  /s/
  Max Dillon
  Charleston SC
  '87 300TD 332k miles

  '95 E300 277k miles

  '73 Balboa 20





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Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

2010-12-11 Thread Max Dillon
Well, TireRack couldn't deliver the tires before early January, and I need
them earlier.  TireBuyer has them in stock for a higher price ($78) and no
rebate, but free shipping, so I'll pay about $75 more but get a tire that
looks decent.  Better, TireBuyer will deliver them to my favorite tire/brake
place, Geralds, while TireRack uses a different local installer that is OK
but I really like Geralds.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2010 2:52 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

Max Dillon wrote:
 OK, looks like I've got to decide between these two 195/65R15 91H tires:
 
 Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Position ($194 for 4 tires - special
price
 for December)
 -or-
 General Altimax HP ($264 for 4 tires).
 
 Methinks I'll go with the Bridgestone...

I live where it snows, and there was a $50 rebate on the Altimax HP when I 
bought them.
You live where it doesn't snow much and melts fast, and there's a $70 rebate
on 
Michelin and Bridgestone right now.
The Generals are ranked a bit higher in the snow, but the Bridgestones are
the 
#3 tire in the 'ultra high performance all season' category, and the highest

ranked UHP tire that's sold in 15. Yeah, I'd be all over those
Bridgestones, if 
I lived in the Carolinas and I could wait for the backorder status. Or if I 
lived anywhere else and used a separate set of snow tires.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

2010-12-11 Thread Max Dillon
$264 - $70 December special rebate.  Look closely - I missed it at first
myself.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2010 4:44 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

Where do you see those for $194, I see them at $264 on tirerack

On 12/11/2010 1:33 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 OK, looks like I've got to decide between these two 195/65R15 91H tires:

 Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Position ($194 for 4 tires - special
price
 for December)
 -or-
 General Altimax HP ($264 for 4 tires).

 Methinks I'll go with the Bridgestone...

 -Max

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

2010-12-11 Thread Max Dillon
Will let you know how it goes...

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2010 4:53 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

I have never heard of tire buyer before, but I checked the Altimax 
HP, which I run on my 140SD and they are the same price as 
tirerack, but they have free shipping, so I would be saving about 
$70.  Do they always have free shipping?  Anybody used them before?

On 12/11/2010 2:34 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 Well, TireRack couldn't deliver the tires before early January, and I need
 them earlier.  TireBuyer has them in stock for a higher price ($78) and no
 rebate, but free shipping, so I'll pay about $75 more but get a tire that
 looks decent.  Better, TireBuyer will deliver them to my favorite
tire/brake
 place, Geralds, while TireRack uses a different local installer that is OK
 but I really like Geralds.

 -Max

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
 Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2010 2:52 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

 Max Dillon wrote:
 OK, looks like I've got to decide between these two 195/65R15 91H tires:

 Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Position ($194 for 4 tires - special
 price
 for December)
 -or-
 General Altimax HP ($264 for 4 tires).

 Methinks I'll go with the Bridgestone...
 I live where it snows, and there was a $50 rebate on the Altimax HP when I
 bought them.
 You live where it doesn't snow much and melts fast, and there's a $70
rebate
 on
 Michelin and Bridgestone right now.
 The Generals are ranked a bit higher in the snow, but the Bridgestones are
 the
 #3 tire in the 'ultra high performance all season' category, and the
highest

 ranked UHP tire that's sold in 15. Yeah, I'd be all over those
 Bridgestones, if
 I lived in the Carolinas and I could wait for the backorder status. Or if
I
 lived anywhere else and used a separate set of snow tires.

 Mitch.

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 -
 No virus found in this message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 10.0.1153 / Virus Database: 426/3305 - Release Date: 12/09/10



-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] MBNA Cheaps out

2010-12-11 Thread Max Dillon
Well, I guess that's helpful to keep folks in MBCA.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Dimitri Seretakis
Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2010 7:55 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] MBNA Cheaps out

Apparently if you've been an MBCA member for at least twelve months prior to
the initiation of this new policy which begins in January 2011 then you are
still covered by roadside assistance. You have to currently be a member in
good standing.

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 11, 2010, at 6:18 PM, roger...@comcast.net wrote:

Well, I'll give you the other side. I've purchased two old MBs used from
private owners. I've received MB roadside assistance on both (dead battery
and a flat tire change). So, I didn't pay big bucks up front...I've let you
other fellows do that and I've benefited from you wealth...thank you folks!
Anyway, my point was again, that I need an alignment anyway, so I'll get it,
which I need, get the free roadside assistance, and NOT pay AAA or Allstate
or whoever for roadside assistance. But as always, everyone is free to make
their own decision and choice. 
Best wishes, 
Roger Hale 
Monroe, Ga. 
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Re: [MBZ] The E420 Lives!

2010-12-13 Thread Max Dillon
Very Cool - thanks for sharing that trick!  Now that I have a proper blue 
wrench, I can do neat stuff like this...

-Max





From: Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Mon, December 13, 2010 1:25:49 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The E420 Lives!

 Craig wrote:

  I did not have the correct size of copper
  sealing rings for the banjo fittings, so I re-used the old
  ones. There is a slow weeping of gasoline from the lower
  banjo on the lower fuel pump.

 I got a new one of the smaller, check valve-to-pump copper
 sealing rings and installed that. Then I redid the banjo
 fitting and tried running the engine again. The torrent of
 gasoline had stopped, but the banjo fitting on the lower pump
 was weeping gasoline. After REALLY TIGHTENING that, the
 weeping stopped and I called it good.

Reusing copper seal rings generally works fine _IF_ you anneal
the copper before re-installing.

Since copper work hardens, and hardens if it is heated and
allowed to cool slowly (opposite of iron) then the process to
anneal is to get it hot and cool it quickly.

I learned this trick when working on light aircraft.

1. Fire up a propane torch (gas stove, ox-acetylene, etc)

2. Hold the ring in the flame. Don't use your fingers. :) I like
using a wire 'cause it doesn't act as a heat sink and the 
ring heats up pretty evenly.

3. Once the copper reaches glowing red, quench it in
water. (Be careful in sunlight. It can be harder to see
the glow and its possible to make the copper molten.)

Now the copper is full-soft and will easily conform to the
sealing surfaces.

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Brake line flush

2010-12-13 Thread Max Dillon
I'd only use brake fluid; anything that doesn't move when you flush with brake 
fluid will not move once the system is back together.

-Max





From: Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sun, December 12, 2010 6:53:25 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Brake line flush

Actually, clutch line, not brake line this time - but I'm
thinking about brakes too.

So I'm about to replace the clutch master and slave cylinder
(parts in route from Rusty).

So while I have the cylinders off the line, I was thinking it
could be a good idea to flush any rust, crud, etc.

Any suggestions on a suitable fluid?

Water?   I'm concerned about getting it _all_ out before the
real stuff goes back in.

Brake fluid?  Will it dissolve any of the crud?

Denature alcohol?

Acetone?

Diesel/kerosene?

Thoughts and suggestions welcome.

--  Philip


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Re: [MBZ] Oh Sh....

2010-12-13 Thread Max Dillon
So what did you get?

-Max





From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sun, December 12, 2010 11:40:48 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Oh Sh

http://charleston.craigslist.org/tls/2108702727.html

--R

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Re: [MBZ] More W124 rear suspension rebuilding

2010-12-13 Thread Max Dillon
Update: after about 15(!) hours I finished the job.  Stopped twice to eat.  I 
was rather sore on Sunday morning...

Sad news for OK Don: the Sir Tools $100 bushing press did not survive 
unscathed.  It worked great on the '95 car, but my '87 wagon proved to be made 
of firmer stuff (or perhaps rustier/older).  The center bolt, with Acme 
threads, 
stripped while trying to pull out the old bushing.  I finally figured out a way 
to use the HF ball joint C-clamp in combination with the ST press and got'er 
done, but probably lost a few hours messing around with that bushing alone.  A 
new center bolt will make the tool usable again - have sent inquiry to seller 
to 
see if they can do a warranty replacement.

I was also slowed down because I ordered one wrong strut - I was confused about 
the whole M10 vs. M12 issue and mis-matched the bolt kit vs. the strut.  I 
think 
that for future reference, the proper thing to do is order all M12 stuff when 
replacing all the struts - the wheel carrier mounting points will accept the 
M12 
but would need the sleeves for the M10 bolts.  While figuring out the problem, 
I 
spent some time consulting the FSM and then my order vs. the EPC and found my 
mistake.  New order to Rusty forthcoming; next side SHOULD go faster.

Of note, the outer bushing for the spring link was totally shot; these joints 
have accordion rubber boots on each side, and the old joint had no rubber boots 
left and thus no grease but lots and lots of play.

-Max







From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sat, December 11, 2010 2:26:07 PM
Subject: [MBZ] More W124 rear suspension rebuilding

Dieselvolk,



This a.m. I dove into rebuilding the rear suspension on my '87 wagon.
Started by pulling the spring link on the right side, and replaced the inner
bushing using a piece of 3/8 acme threaded rod.  Took about 2.5 hours to do
that.



Incidentally, the sleeve for the inner bushing is not tapered on this car
like it was on my '95 E300.  Replacement bushing is same part number as for
the  '95.  The original bushing in this '87 300TD has a head at one end of
the inner-most sleeve, which I had to cut off in order to get clearance to
push the bushing out.





Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 332k miles

'95 E300 277k miles 

'73 Balboa 20





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Re: [MBZ] who wanted a 300D?

2010-12-13 Thread Max Dillon
My theory is that the 124 wagons are more complex / more expensive to maintain 
and repair, but the owners for the most part are frugal (compared to average MB 
owner) and don't keep them up well so the end result is a car that will need a 
lot of $$ and time invested to bring back to a reasonable driving condition, 
where as a 123 wagon is much less costly to make the same repairs (one can 
easily spend $1000 on rear suspension parts for a 124, as I've recently 
discovered, twice...).

-Max





From: andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Mon, December 13, 2010 11:00:42 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] who wanted a 300D?

I can't figure out why the W1241987 300TD wagons are going so cheap
compared to the W123 300TDs.  Marshall Booth always insisted the 124s
were way superior in many ways to the 123 technology.  I hate their
looks, which is why I am a W123 300TD collector instead of seeking
that perfect W124 300TD...


On Sun, Dec 12, 2010 at 12:01 AM, Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:
 Read your mail from a coupla days ago about whoever was looking for a new
 diesel.

 --R

 On 12/11/2010 6:42 PM, Mountain Man wrote:

 --R wrote:

 What white one?  You talking about the one the guy I know is selling?
  That
 car is probably as close to perfect as one can be for its age, this one,
 who
 knows...

 What is the price of the 20-minute-away one that you know?
 The seller has another white 1992 300D for twice the money.
 Tell us more about the perfect one 20 minutes away?
 mao

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Re: [MBZ] Unhappy Brake Noises

2010-12-13 Thread Max Dillon
Can you apply a little air pressure and get the stuck piston to move out?  Once 
you can see the bore, you can condemn or rebuild.  I finally have a small air 
compressor and used this method when I rebuilt the calipers on my '95 E300, 
works pretty slick but you need to modulate the pressure and use something 
other 
than fingers to 'catch' the piston.

-Max (fingers much better now, thank you).





From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Mon, December 13, 2010 12:04:43 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Unhappy Brake Noises

Last night I drove the 300SD (the mamabenz) and noticed it was making a 
grinding 
sound from the right rear brake.  Checked it out, the inner pad was down to 
about 1/8 and the other was about 1/4.  Rotor was OK.  I was able to use a 
C-clamp to compress the outer piston a bit but the inner was not moving.  I'm 
guessing the one piston is seized?  Time for a new caliper?  Not sure why that 
would make Unhappy Noises but is the only thing I can see.

--R

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Re: [MBZ] who wanted a 300D?

2010-12-13 Thread Max Dillon
I looked at a few real junkers before I bought my junker, $3000 on Ebay at the 
peak of the MB-diesel market frenzy a few years ago.

-Max





From: Bob Rentfro azbob...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Mon, December 13, 2010 12:14:38 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] who wanted a 300D?

Really? I'm thinking of a 124 wagon, actually.

Bob R
On Dec 13, 2010 9:12 AM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 My theory is that the 124 wagons are more complex / more expensive to
maintain
 and repair, but the owners for the most part are frugal (compared to
average MB
 owner) and don't keep them up well so the end result is a car that will
need a
 lot of $$ and time invested to bring back to a reasonable driving
condition,
 where as a 123 wagon is much less costly to make the same repairs (one can

 easily spend $1000 on rear suspension parts for a 124, as I've recently
 discovered, twice...).

 -Max




 
 From: andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Mon, December 13, 2010 11:00:42 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] who wanted a 300D?

 I can't figure out why the W1241987 300TD wagons are going so cheap
 compared to the W123 300TDs. Marshall Booth always insisted the 124s
 were way superior in many ways to the 123 technology. I hate their
 looks, which is why I am a W123 300TD collector instead of seeking
 that perfect W124 300TD...


 On Sun, Dec 12, 2010 at 12:01 AM, Rich Thomas
 richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:
 Read your mail from a coupla days ago about whoever was looking for a new
 diesel.

 --R

 On 12/11/2010 6:42 PM, Mountain Man wrote:

 --R wrote:

 What white one? You talking about the one the guy I know is selling?
 That
 car is probably as close to perfect as one can be for its age, this
one,
 who
 knows...

 What is the price of the 20-minute-away one that you know?
 The seller has another white 1992 300D for twice the money.
 Tell us more about the perfect one 20 minutes away?
 mao

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Re: [MBZ] More W124 rear suspension rebuilding

2010-12-13 Thread Max Dillon
~$650 for a complete set of links and bushings and hardware, ~$300 for the 
subframe mounts and rear shocks for the sedan.  The SLS struts for the 124 
wagon 
are not the same as the 123 I'm pretty sure; I replaced my leaking struts last 
summer with a $150 used set in really nice condition.  I'm sure I wouldn't pay 
the price for new struts, but I never asked.

-Max





From: andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Mon, December 13, 2010 12:41:51 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] More W124 rear suspension rebuilding

How much did the parts cost, roughly?  Are the rear SLS struts the
same as on the W123 300TD?


On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 12:07 PM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 Update: after about 15(!) hours I finished the job.  Stopped twice to eat.  I
 was rather sore on Sunday morning...

 Sad news for OK Don: the Sir Tools $100 bushing press did not survive
 unscathed.  It worked great on the '95 car, but my '87 wagon proved to be made
 of firmer stuff (or perhaps rustier/older).  The center bolt, with Acme 
threads,
 stripped while trying to pull out the old bushing.  I finally figured out a 
way
 to use the HF ball joint C-clamp in combination with the ST press and got'er
 done, but probably lost a few hours messing around with that bushing alone.  A
 new center bolt will make the tool usable again - have sent inquiry to seller 
to
 see if they can do a warranty replacement.

 I was also slowed down because I ordered one wrong strut - I was confused 
about
 the whole M10 vs. M12 issue and mis-matched the bolt kit vs. the strut.  I 
think
 that for future reference, the proper thing to do is order all M12 stuff when
 replacing all the struts - the wheel carrier mounting points will accept the 
M12
 but would need the sleeves for the M10 bolts.  While figuring out the 
 problem, 
I
 spent some time consulting the FSM and then my order vs. the EPC and found my
 mistake.  New order to Rusty forthcoming; next side SHOULD go faster.

 Of note, the outer bushing for the spring link was totally shot; these joints
 have accordion rubber boots on each side, and the old joint had no rubber 
boots
 left and thus no grease but lots and lots of play.

 -Max






 
 From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Sat, December 11, 2010 2:26:07 PM
 Subject: [MBZ] More W124 rear suspension rebuilding

 Dieselvolk,



 This a.m. I dove into rebuilding the rear suspension on my '87 wagon.
 Started by pulling the spring link on the right side, and replaced the inner
 bushing using a piece of 3/8 acme threaded rod.  Took about 2.5 hours to do
 that.



 Incidentally, the sleeve for the inner bushing is not tapered on this car
 like it was on my '95 E300.  Replacement bushing is same part number as for
 the  '95.  The original bushing in this '87 300TD has a head at one end of
 the inner-most sleeve, which I had to cut off in order to get clearance to
 push the bushing out.





 Very respectfully,
 /s/
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD 332k miles

 '95 E300 277k miles

 '73 Balboa 20





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Re: [MBZ] The E420 Lives!

2010-12-13 Thread Max Dillon
I've been told that torches and concrete don't play well together - the 
concrete 
can explode if heated too fast - but a mini-butane is probably safe...

-Max





From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Mon, December 13, 2010 2:02:13 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The E420 Lives!

On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 10:42 AM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:
 Max Dillon wrote:

 Very Cool - thanks for sharing that trick!  Now that I have a
 proper blue wrench, I can do neat stuff like this...

 It does not take much to get a little copper ring hot enough.  A
 little jewelers butane torch would likely be enough.


That's how I do it.  Mini butane torch in one hand, can of
circuit-board freeze spray in the other.  Lay the washer down on a
clean patch of concrete and have at it.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Hey Max

2010-12-14 Thread Max Dillon
Can I keep it at your place? :)

-Max





From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tue, December 14, 2010 9:05:54 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Hey Max

Either make bio-d or meth

http://charleston.craigslist.org/tls/2111385209.html

--R

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Re: [MBZ] E420 and windshield replacement

2010-12-14 Thread Max Dillon
No gasket - just a good bead of urethane.  Check for any signs of rust around 
the frame; the two fore/aft trim pieces pull up at the base of the hood hinge 
point to remove, you can tie them off to each side view mirror to hold out of 
the way, and then use a plastic wedge to pry out the top frame piece - all 
three 
trim pieces are simply pushed down into friction fit clamps.

My '95 E300 had a poorly done replacement windshield; the installers did not 
properly prime/paint the scratches from removing the old glass, and so I had a 
lot of rust, which in one bad spot had bubbled up and caused a crack.  $230 job 
turned into a $800 job plus time required for shop to weld in a piece of 
replacement steel.

Check the rubber gasket going across the base of the windshield - it should be 
laying flat all the way across.  If it won't lay flat, odds are you've got a 
replacement which was not done correctly OR somebody has been working on the 
w.wiper.  The plastic gutters on the left and right of the w.wiper are also 
fragile and subject to breakage by heavy-handed technicians - I had to replace 
the right-hand side gutter on my car.

-Max



From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
To: mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tue, December 14, 2010 9:11:34 AM
Subject: [MBZ] E420 and windshield replacement

The windshield on the E420 has some cracks running across it and I think
I'm going to have to replace it. Q says there is no gasket like on the
W123. Anything else I should know about before I get it done?


Craig

--
Present:'94 E420117 kmi
'82 240D/3.0264 kmi
Past:'86 190E/2.3
'72 220/8
'64 190Dc
'72 220D/8

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Re: [MBZ] E420 and windshield replacement

2010-12-14 Thread Max Dillon
No gasket - just a good bead of urethane.  Check for any signs of rust around 
the frame; the two fore/aft trim pieces pull up at the base of the hood hinge 
point to remove, you can tie them off to each side view mirror to hold out of 
the way, and then use a plastic wedge to pry out the top frame piece - all 
three 
trim pieces are simply pushed down into friction fit clamps.

My '95 E300 had a poorly done replacement windshield; the installers did not 
properly prime/paint the scratches in the metal frame prior to installing the 
new glass, so a $250 job turned into a $800 job.

Also look at the rubber gasket along the base of the windshield on either side 
of the mono-wiper; if it doesn't lay flat, you may have to replace that.  The 
plastic gutters underneath are also fragile and subject to breaking.

-Max



From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
To: mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tue, December 14, 2010 9:11:34 AM
Subject: [MBZ] E420 and windshield replacement

The windshield on the E420 has some cracks running across it and I think
I'm going to have to replace it. Q says there is no gasket like on the
W123. Anything else I should know about before I get it done?


Craig

--
Present:'94 E420117 kmi
'82 240D/3.0264 kmi
Past:'86 190E/2.3
'72 220/8
'64 190Dc
'72 220D/8

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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-14 Thread Max Dillon
If using the block heater will make it fire right up, I think that would 
indicate compression improves with heat, which could be poorly adjusted valves 
or worn out piston rings.

-Max





From: andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tue, December 14, 2010 1:14:40 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

The valves were adjusted COLD.

I see no reason to R/R the glow plug fuse (it either works or it
doesn't - right?) but I could R/R the glow plug RELAY if you think
that is worth a try.  I don't have the wherewithal (unheated garage)
to remove and test the glow plugs.

Not aware of any leaks either either but I could pump the primer while
SWMBO is cranking.

If I plugged in the car prior to starting and it fired right up, what
would that mean with regard to these other possible issues?

Andrew
1983 and 1985 300TDs

On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 12:56 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:
 Never heard of winter clearances, except I dimly recall something about 
clearances for *really* cold/arctic conditions.

 I've always heard the need to be adjusted dead cold.  As in, sitting 
 overnight, 
and not even started to pull into the garage/service area.

 Allan

 On Tue, 14 Dec 2010 10:33 -0500, John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net wrote:
 Were the valves adjusted hot or cold? Were they set at the winter or
 summer clearances?

 --
 John W Reames
 jwrea...@comcast.net
 Home: +14106646986
 Mobile: +14437915905

 On Dec 14, 2010, at 10:14, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  This is a new problem for me.  The 1985 300TD recently had a valve
  adjustment so I wasn't too worried about it starting in the cold.
  Well, I should have been!  Yesterday, with a temp of around 23 F.,
  after sitting in the street for a mere 6 hours the 300TD barely
  started up without running down the (relatively new) battery.  I had
  to key the glow cycle three times for an additional 10-20 seconds each
  time before it fired up.
 
  So how do I diagnose whether this is bad glow plugs or low
  compression?  Or could it be something else?  The car never fires up
  quickly in the best of circumstances, compared to the '83 turbo diesel
  wagon, although it has adequate power and acceleration.  Fuel is
  clean, too (I recently changed the tank strainer and other filters).
 
  As always, TIA.
 
  Andrew
  1983 300TD starts like a 300TE
  1985 300TD needs to  be wound up
 
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Re: [MBZ] 124 rear suspension rebuild - who's BTDT?

2010-12-14 Thread Max Dillon
Larry,

Yes, I have the list on paper and I'll send you a copy.  The '95 finally was 
all 
together back at Thanksgiving, and performed beautifully on a trip to NYC and 
back since then.  The car is an absolute pleasure to drive now, and soon my '87 
wagon will have the same treatment.  I did not replace the subframe mounts yet, 
that will wait for a less busy time.  Before I started, riding in the car was 
like riding on springs on a piano dolly; very bouncy and lots of rear-end 
steering.  After new rear shocks and new struts/bushings and an alignment (and 
front end work including lower ball joints and tie rods and steering shock), 
all 
that is fixed.

If you're planning to do this work, the most difficult parts are the two 
bushings for the spring link (aka lower control arm).  The inner bushing is 
mounted in the spring link, the outer bushing is mounted in the wheel carrier.  
I purchased a $100 Sir Tools copy of the special MB tool for the outer bushing; 
it requires that the brake rotor and parking brake assembly be removed, and the 
dust shield taken loose so that you can get proper access and clearance around 
the bushing.  Tool worked great on the '95, but broke on my wagon.  The inner 
bushings are also a bear.  On my '95, I ended up taking them to a shop to have 
the old pressed out and new pressed in for $40.  On my wagon, I have a shop 
made tool consisting of a foot of 3/8-12 Acme threaded rod and some nuts, a 
piece of pipe with the ends cut absolutely square, and an assortment of 
sockets; 
the tool just barely is enough to do the inner bushings.  I've finished the 
right side of the wagon; when I do the left side, I'm going to use a torch to 
heat up things so that life for the tools will be a little easier.

-Max





From: l02tur...@comcast.net l02tur...@comcast.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Mon, December 13, 2010 9:42:49 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 rear suspension rebuild - who's BTDT?

Hi Max,
   Last Summer you were prepping for a rear suspension repair  upgrade. At the 
time several people (incl. me) requested a list parts needed.  Were you ever 
able to put that list onto paper?  Would love to see it - still no specific 
problems but it's one of those problems that sneak up on you without noticing.

   I assume the '95 is all back together by now?  Driving nicely I hope? Sorry 
if you have gone over this - there are so many MBZ posts I often get behind in 
reading all of them.  Hope I don't miss something important...

   Did you notice a big improvement?

TIA -
Larry T
91 300D

-Original Message- From: Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310
Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2010 7:41 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 rear suspension rebuild - who's BTDT?

I'll send it directly (anyone else need it?) but I'm not sure it will
all apply to you, as the hardware changed at some point, increasing the
bolt size from M10 to M12 I believe.  Maybe someone here is smart enough
to know if the larger bolts will be fine as long as ALL the
camber/torque/strut/etc arms are replaced along with bushings and
sleeves?

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Larry T
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 4:06 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 rear suspension rebuild - who's BTDT?

Hey Max -
When you get that list, please share it, OK??

My '91 300D might need a similar rebuild one of these days 

Thx
LarryT
91 300D


In God We Trust

--
From: Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310
meade.m.dil...@navy.mil
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 1:34 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] 124 rear suspension rebuild - who's BTDT?

 Dieselvolk,
 
 I'm putting together a Rusty-gram to get the rubber and hardware bits
 so that I can rebuild the rear suspension on my '95 E300.  I'm
 planning to go whole hog: differential to sub frame mounts, sub frame
 to body mounts, and all the various bushings and torque arms and
 struts that hold the wheel carrier in position.  I'm expecting at
 least a boat ride at this year's Rusty-Q, as I've probably already
 made two or three of his boat payments.
 
 Someone, I believe it was Dieselhead, recently shared their
 observations, and I remember that removing the mounts that hold sub
 frame to body was loads of fun and games.  What tools/hardware should
 I gather in advance to help this procedure along?  Can I rent the $$$
 tools somewhere?  Any other tidbits of wisdom will be appreciated.
 
 Still smoking,
 /s/
 Max Dillon
 '87 300TD 328k miles
 '95 E300 275k miles (project)
 '73 Balboa 20
 Charleston SC
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] hose heater versus block heater?!!

2010-12-15 Thread Max Dillon
The block heater should seal up just fine - I don't think I've ever heard of 
one 
leaking.  Have you checked to make sure it's not already there?  Many times 
they 
were installed from the factory, but no cord was included; original owner 
received a coupon for the cord at purchase.  Block heater will be on the right 
side of the block, under the exhaust manifold but above the engine mount, and 
can be pretty difficult to reach let alone see.  As you can imagine, if it's 
not 
present it will also be difficult to install.

-Max





From: Chris N John ceand...@tctwest.net
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wed, December 15, 2010 11:27:29 AM
Subject: [MBZ] hose heater versus block heater?!!

Hi, everyone
We too are having issues with our car starting this winter (1980 300 SD). 
Hubbie 
put about 4 different hose heaters on it last winter. The last one finally 
worked once or twice. (We won't mention the local car parts store) We tried it 
again in November and it seemed to be doing fine and then the morning we had 
appointments to keep 80 miles away and temp was -20, guess what? Yep-- it 
didn't 
work at all. We made it to appointments, but used up our easy travel margin 
of 
time for sure!!
So, my question is: the block heaters sound more dependable and efficient but 
hubbie is concerned about problems installing in the old car. He thinks it will 
be hard to seal up after removing the old plug, which seems to be another big 
concern, too. Any feedback from you experts? Should we keep trying the hose 
heaters, and is there one that really works long term?? Thanks for advice!
Wishing you all a Wonderful Christmas Season and a Great New Year to come, 
Christy
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Re: [MBZ] hose heater versus block heater?!!

2010-12-15 Thread Max Dillon
That reminds me - on my '87 wagon, the cordless block heater had a plastic 
cover 
over it making it rather blend in with the block.  Once I felt it, I knew what 
it was.

-Max





From: Walt Zarnoch zarnoch...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wed, December 15, 2010 12:38:23 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] hose heater versus block heater?!!

Me jumping on a 5 foot breaker bar on says, if the block comes with it, the
block was no good to begin with.

I transfered mine from a 2.4 to the 3.0 with both engines out, it just takes
time and a willingness to not listen to that something's going to break...
feeling for once. If you have the engine in the car, as you do, it should go
easier.

Check for the heater first, depending on the year/version, they can look
quite like a freeze plug at first glance, and can be overlooked easily.

Walt
On Dec 15, 2010 12:20 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 Difficult to install? Not if you have a hoist and a 8' long wrench.
 Difficult to seal? Not unless a big piece of the engine block comes out
with the
 old plug when you try to unscrew it. (has this ever happened, or is it
something
 we irrationally worry about when the torque goes north of 500 ft-lb?)

 Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] SLS pump for a 123 wanted

2010-12-15 Thread Max Dillon
Andrew's got one attached to an engine with really bad compression that
won't start...

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Fmiser
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 9:24 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] SLS pump for a 123 wanted

The Self Leveling Suspension pump on my '85 wagon is in pretty
rough shape.

So too is the one from the parts car.

And I'm trying to avoid spending  on a new one.

Anyone here know of a used one in decent shape?

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-15 Thread Max Dillon
No.  You still could have bad glow plugs, low compression (valve adjustment
or rings), bad injectors, leaking fuel lines.  Your car is trying to tell
you that it needs attention; that is all we know so far.  The easiest thing
to try first is measuring the resistance of the glow plugs.  Next would be
pulling the pre-glow relay fuse to see if it has cracks or crumbles in your
fingers.  After that, try operating the manual primer pump; if it leaks, it
needs to be replaced.  If it doesn't leak, keep pumping while SWMBO tries to
start the car (already recommended; if that helps, then you know you have a
leak in the fuel system.  I'd say the valve adjustment is 3rd from last, as
you say it was done recently.  After that, pull the injectors and have the
compression checked and have the injectors tested while they're out (don't
forget to use new heat shields when you put the injectors back in).

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 4:56 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

Another question.  The good 300TD starts without glowing when the
engine is warm.  The bad 85 300TD always needs to be glowed before
starting, regardless of engine temperature.  It starts quicker when
it's warm, but I still need to glow it or it cranks a lot.  Does this
observation mean the glow plugs aren't the problem?

On Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 9:12 AM, Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:
 Yeah that sounds right.  I forget these things, maybe I should use a
 notebook or something when doing these jobs.  But those gearwrenches are
 great tools.

 --R

 On 12/14/2010 10:35 AM, John Reames wrote:

 An 8mm gearwrench for the electrical connections, and a 10mm for the
plugs
 proper.

 --
 John W Reames
 jwrea...@comcast.net
 Home: +14106646986
 Mobile: +14437915905

 On Dec 14, 2010, at 10:28, Rich
 Thomasrichthomas79td...@constructivity.net  wrote:

 Might want to check your glow plugs, relay, and CHECK YOUR FUSE.  The 84
 SD was getting a bit balky, even in warm weather, I replaced a couple of
 glow plugs and the relay (which did not appear to be relaying very well
for
 reasons unclear), and it fires right up (though I have not yet tried it
 today after last night way down in the 20s).  I CHANGED THE FUSE too,
first
 thing, but it was OK so that was not the issue.  Sort of minimal stuff
that
 you should probably check as a matter of course, but makes quite the
 difference.

 Note:  changing the glow plugs really benefits from a 10mm (I think)
 gearwrench as that is about the only thing I could fit in there easily
to
 loosen/tighten everything.  The relay is easy to change, make sure you
 disconnect the battery first.

 --R

 On 12/14/2010 10:14 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

 This is a new problem for me.  The 1985 300TD recently had a valve
 adjustment so I wasn't too worried about it starting in the cold.
 Well, I should have been!  Yesterday, with a temp of around 23 F.,
 after sitting in the street for a mere 6 hours the 300TD barely
 started up without running down the (relatively new) battery.  I had
 to key the glow cycle three times for an additional 10-20 seconds each
 time before it fired up.

 So how do I diagnose whether this is bad glow plugs or low
 compression?  Or could it be something else?  The car never fires up
 quickly in the best of circumstances, compared to the '83 turbo diesel
 wagon, although it has adequate power and acceleration.  Fuel is
 clean, too (I recently changed the tank strainer and other filters).

 As always, TIA.

 Andrew
 1983 300TD starts like a 300TE
 1985 300TD needs to  be wound up

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To search 

Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

2010-12-16 Thread Max Dillon
I've had good luck with the local Bosch diesel service shop - look in your
yellow pages or google them.  Also, if you've got a good independent MB
shop, they may offer that service as well.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Allan Streib
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 11:26 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hard starting 300TD

Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net writes:

 After that, pull the injectors and have the compression checked and
 have the injectors tested while they're out (don't forget to use new
 heat shields when you put the injectors back in).

Does anyone know of a good injector service shop (can test, balance, and
if necessary rebuild injectors using quality components).  Or is this
something that any diesel service shop normally does fairly well?

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] SLS pump for a 123 wanted

2010-12-16 Thread Max Dillon
PGA = Potomac German Auto (now part of the LKQ Empire but still has lots of
MB stuff at fair prices and they ship.

http://www.pgauto.com/

-Max



-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Fmiser
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 2:27 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] SLS pump for a 123 wanted

 David Bruckmann wrote:

 I'm not sure what rough shape means.

I opened it up, with the plan to replace the shaft seal.

The shaft is stuck in the cover and the cover bushing-to-shaft
is _way_ to loose.  And the shaft has worn grooves, and scoring
from the body bushing.

The pump from the parts car is actually in better shape - except
the seal grooves are deeper.

Both, I suspect, ran for a considerably amount of time without
sufficient clean oil in the system. :(

I haven't bought used parts since Atlanta Stutgard closed shop...

Is there a respectable used parts supplier?

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

2010-12-16 Thread Max Dillon
Did you lubricate because the movement is too slow?  On my '95, the plastic 
cover over the reticulating mechanism is easy to pop-off - there are two 
catches at the bottom, you simply pull a little and it should pop off.  You'll 
have access to clean and lube everything but the shaft which comes out of the 
motor.  On my '87, the cover is screwed down and the entire WW assembly must be 
removed in order to properly clean/lubricate.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On 
Behalf Of l02tur...@comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 9:57 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

Hi Gang,
My wife told me the WW was acting funny (she always talks in highly technical 
terms) so I checked it out tonight – because we’re having a snow storm 
tomorrow.  Great timing, huh?

Anyway, it sounds like the wiper blade is dry and dragging across the glass.  
It wasn’t as I sprayed it with cleaner fluid.  I lubricated the mechanism as 
much as I could without disassembling anything.  It’s a bit better.  But I 
worry.  

Anyone BTDT?

TIA - 
LarryT
91 300D
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Re: [MBZ] Beam patterns from different times and and countries.

2010-12-16 Thread Max Dillon
Did you forget to paste in the URL?

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of l02tur...@comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 9:48 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Beam patterns from different times and and countries.

This website has a excellent explanation of the different bulbs - their 
wattage, useage, etc along with images of many different lens'.Very 
informative.  This guy makes a great relay kit for Porsche (and others) 
headlights so they can take more power safely.

LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: relng...@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 8:14 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Beam patterns from different times and and countries.

 ..Isn't the lamp lens customized for lighting patterns in different
 countries? Maybe 4 was the US pattern?..

It is for right or left hand traffic.

Beyond that, the beam patterns with H-4s have been the same for decades.
For the one example I know about, the stock headlights in my '95 W202 C280
used H-4 (100/160W) bulbs producing the Euro beam pattern with the low beam
sharp cutoff which is the same beam pattern my 2008 C300's Bi-Xenon low 
beams
have.

And the old Cibie Z-Beams in my Porsche with JC Whitney 100/160W H-4s (four
relays) have the exact same pattern.

RLE

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Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

2010-12-16 Thread Max Dillon
I'm not sure of the official lube; I used some plain old wheel bearing grease 
on my '95, and it still is too slow.  I'm not sure if that is the grease or a 
problem with the motor.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On 
Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 9:12 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

What do you lube it with?

On 12/16/2010 6:41 AM, Max Dillon wrote:
 Did you lubricate because the movement is too slow?  On my '95, the plastic 
 cover over the reticulating mechanism is easy to pop-off - there are two 
 catches at the bottom, you simply pull a little and it should pop off.  
 You'll have access to clean and lube everything but the shaft which comes out 
 of the motor.  On my '87, the cover is screwed down and the entire WW 
 assembly must be removed in order to properly clean/lubricate.

 -Max

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On 
 Behalf Of l02tur...@comcast.net
 Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 9:57 PM
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

 Hi Gang,
 My wife told me the WW was acting funny (she always talks in highly technical 
 terms) so I checked it out tonight – because we’re having a snow storm 
 tomorrow.  Great timing, huh?

 Anyway, it sounds like the wiper blade is dry and dragging across the glass.  
 It wasn’t as I sprayed it with cleaner fluid.  I lubricated the mechanism as 
 much as I could without disassembling anything.  It’s a bit better.  But I 
 worry.

 Anyone BTDT?

 TIA -
 LarryT
 91 300D
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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 -
 No virus found in this message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 10.0.1170 / Virus Database: 426/3317 - Release Date: 12/15/10

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

2010-12-16 Thread Max Dillon
PGA may be our friend - see my earlier post with their URL.

On my foray to the pick-n-pull a few weeks ago, I noticed that all the MB WW's 
had been violently stripped of their motors.  Very sad - all the transmission 
arms bent, all the plastic/rubber covers ripped and broken off.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On 
Behalf Of l02tur...@comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 3:42 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

Hi Max,
The movement is slow and sounds like it's on a dry surface - even though I 
wet it down.I removed the cover you mentioned and lubed the shaft under 
the cover - helped a little.

See my reply to Allan where I discuss Rusty's phone call.  Sounds like we 
both have a new transmission in out future.   I'm starting a search for a 
used one at Rusty's suggestion... New one's are over $500.

Take care --
LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Max Dillon
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 7:41 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

Did you lubricate because the movement is too slow?  On my '95, the plastic 
cover over the reticulating mechanism is easy to pop-off - there are two 
catches at the bottom, you simply pull a little and it should pop off. 
You'll have access to clean and lube everything but the shaft which comes 
out of the motor.  On my '87, the cover is screwed down and the entire WW 
assembly must be removed in order to properly clean/lubricate.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] 
On Behalf Of l02tur...@comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 9:57 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

Hi Gang,
My wife told me the WW was acting funny (she always talks in highly 
technical terms) so I checked it out tonight – because we’re having a snow 
storm tomorrow.  Great timing, huh?

Anyway, it sounds like the wiper blade is dry and dragging across the glass. 
It wasn’t as I sprayed it with cleaner fluid.  I lubricated the mechanism as 
much as I could without disassembling anything.  It’s a bit better.  But I 
worry.

Anyone BTDT?

TIA -
LarryT
91 300D
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Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

2010-12-16 Thread Max Dillon
Allen,

Yes, grease undoubtably too thick.  I think that some type of silicon lubricant 
has been recommended.  ATF would probably work fine too, just keep it away from 
the glass and wiper.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On 
Behalf Of Allan Streib
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 11:49 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124

Wheel bearing grease is pretty thick.  What about synthetic motor oil or ATF?



On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 09:44 -0500, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 I'm not sure of the official lube; I used some plain old wheel bearing
 grease on my '95, and it still is too slow.  I'm not sure if that is the
 grease or a problem with the motor.
 
 -Max
 
 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
 [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
 Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 9:12 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124
 
 What do you lube it with?
 
 On 12/16/2010 6:41 AM, Max Dillon wrote:
  Did you lubricate because the movement is too slow?  On my '95, the plastic 
  cover over the reticulating mechanism is easy to pop-off - there are two 
  catches at the bottom, you simply pull a little and it should pop off.  
  You'll have access to clean and lube everything but the shaft which comes 
  out of the motor.  On my '87, the cover is screwed down and the entire WW 
  assembly must be removed in order to properly clean/lubricate.
 
  -Max
 
  -Original Message-
  From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] 
  On Behalf Of l02tur...@comcast.net
  Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2010 9:57 PM
  To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Subject: [MBZ] Windshield Wiper W124
 
  Hi Gang,
  My wife told me the WW was acting funny (she always talks in highly 
  technical terms) so I checked it out tonight – because we’re having a snow 
  storm tomorrow.  Great timing, huh?
 
  Anyway, it sounds like the wiper blade is dry and dragging across the 
  glass.  It wasn’t as I sprayed it with cleaner fluid.  I lubricated the 
  mechanism as much as I could without disassembling anything.  It’s a bit 
  better.  But I worry.
 
  Anyone BTDT?
 
  TIA -
  LarryT
  91 300D
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
  ___
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  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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  -
  No virus found in this message.
  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
  Version: 10.0.1170 / Virus Database: 426/3317 - Release Date: 12/15/10
 
 -- 
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
   91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
   85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 

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[MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

2010-12-16 Thread Max Dillon
Over the last couple of nights I've been pecking away at the left side
links/bushings on my 300TD.  I started by pulling the wheel, brake caliper,
and rotor, and then taking loose the parking brake shoes and the brake
backing plate/dust shield.  On my '95, I didn't need to loosen the brake
backing plate, but on this '87 car it is required and makes the whole job
much easier.   The spring link came off next, using a trolley jack to lower
it to let the spring relax so it could be safely removed.

 

I used the Sir Tools M0085 bushing press (with stripped threads on the bolt)
in combination with the Harbor Freight ball joint tool to press out the
outer spring link bushing which is in the bottom of the wheel carrier.  On
this side of the car, the wheel carrier casting was different which made
placing the cups of the M0085 much easier so that it sat perfectly flush on
the edge of the bushing and it came out quite nicely.  Cleaned up the hole
with wire brush, lubricated with anti-seize paste, and pulled the new
bushing in with the M0085 (the end threads are still good enough to do this
part of the job).

 

Next I replaced the thrust link and the tie-rod link; again I used the MB
special tool for removing tied rod ends, which easily popped off the tie rod
from the wheel carrier.  Pulling link and camber link were next, but
couldn't complete the installation of these without new hardware, coming in
the next box of goodies from Rusty.

 

Good news for OK Don:  Both Toolsource and Sir Tools have offered to replace
the broken M0085 under warranty, so you will be getting either a new tool or
a new bolt.  Toolsource says they've already shipped a replacement tool, but
I've got to return the broken tool to ensure it's covered by the warranty.
Sir Tools says that they won't have a replacement bolt until January, but we
probably won't have to wait for that.

 

If a certain box is delivered this afternoon, I may be able to entertain you
all with a happy ending later tonight!

 

Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 332k miles

'95 E300 277k miles 

'73 Balboa 20

 

 

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Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

2010-12-16 Thread Max Dillon
Yes, I thought about that, but I don't have a place to share the pictures.
Lousy excuse - I'm sure someone on this list could have helped me out, but
that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

I do plan to write up a comprehensive step-by-step with lessons learned,
tools, part numbers, etc, but don't anyone hold their breath.  Maybe that
will be a good project for the Christmas break.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 5:28 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

You need to take some pics and post all this on a web site or blog.  I 
guess it is too late, but it would be nice if everyone did that.  
Doesn't take long and is very helpful to see the actual job with comments.

--R

On 12/16/2010 5:06 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 Over the last couple of nights I've been pecking away at the left side
 links/bushings on my 300TD.  I started by pulling the wheel, brake
caliper,
 and rotor, and then taking loose the parking brake shoes and the brake
 backing plate/dust shield.  On my '95, I didn't need to loosen the brake
 backing plate, but on this '87 car it is required and makes the whole job
 much easier.   The spring link came off next, using a trolley jack to
lower
 it to let the spring relax so it could be safely removed.



 I used the Sir Tools M0085 bushing press (with stripped threads on the
bolt)
 in combination with the Harbor Freight ball joint tool to press out the
 outer spring link bushing which is in the bottom of the wheel carrier.  On
 this side of the car, the wheel carrier casting was different which made
 placing the cups of the M0085 much easier so that it sat perfectly flush
on
 the edge of the bushing and it came out quite nicely.  Cleaned up the hole
 with wire brush, lubricated with anti-seize paste, and pulled the new
 bushing in with the M0085 (the end threads are still good enough to do
this
 part of the job).



 Next I replaced the thrust link and the tie-rod link; again I used the MB
 special tool for removing tied rod ends, which easily popped off the tie
rod
 from the wheel carrier.  Pulling link and camber link were next, but
 couldn't complete the installation of these without new hardware, coming
in
 the next box of goodies from Rusty.



 Good news for OK Don:  Both Toolsource and Sir Tools have offered to
replace
 the broken M0085 under warranty, so you will be getting either a new tool
or
 a new bolt.  Toolsource says they've already shipped a replacement tool,
but
 I've got to return the broken tool to ensure it's covered by the warranty.
 Sir Tools says that they won't have a replacement bolt until January, but
we
 probably won't have to wait for that.



 If a certain box is delivered this afternoon, I may be able to entertain
you
 all with a happy ending later tonight!



 Very respectfully,
 /s/
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD 332k miles

 '95 E300 277k miles

 '73 Balboa 20





 ___
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Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

2010-12-16 Thread Max Dillon
Sure, I'll be free in February, my rate is only $55 per hour plus expenses.

I think that if I'd only done the spring link bushings and the camber link
on this car, all my troubles would have been solved.  Replacing them all
removes any doubt, and now I shouldn't have to touch them for another 150k
miles or so.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of WILTON
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 6:21 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

Maybe I should go down for a weekend and let you do mine and take you and 
your young ladies to dinner a coupla times.   ;))

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 5:53 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga


 Yes, I thought about that, but I don't have a place to share the pictures.
 Lousy excuse - I'm sure someone on this list could have helped me out, but
 that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

 I do plan to write up a comprehensive step-by-step with lessons learned,
 tools, part numbers, etc, but don't anyone hold their breath.  Maybe that
 will be a good project for the Christmas break.

 -Max

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
 Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 5:28 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

 You need to take some pics and post all this on a web site or blog.  I
 guess it is too late, but it would be nice if everyone did that.
 Doesn't take long and is very helpful to see the actual job with comments.

 --R

 On 12/16/2010 5:06 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 Over the last couple of nights I've been pecking away at the left side
 links/bushings on my 300TD.  I started by pulling the wheel, brake
 caliper,
 and rotor, and then taking loose the parking brake shoes and the brake
 backing plate/dust shield.  On my '95, I didn't need to loosen the brake
 backing plate, but on this '87 car it is required and makes the whole job
 much easier.   The spring link came off next, using a trolley jack to
 lower
 it to let the spring relax so it could be safely removed.



 I used the Sir Tools M0085 bushing press (with stripped threads on the
 bolt)
 in combination with the Harbor Freight ball joint tool to press out the
 outer spring link bushing which is in the bottom of the wheel carrier. 
 On
 this side of the car, the wheel carrier casting was different which made
 placing the cups of the M0085 much easier so that it sat perfectly flush
 on
 the edge of the bushing and it came out quite nicely.  Cleaned up the 
 hole
 with wire brush, lubricated with anti-seize paste, and pulled the new
 bushing in with the M0085 (the end threads are still good enough to do
 this
 part of the job).



 Next I replaced the thrust link and the tie-rod link; again I used the MB
 special tool for removing tied rod ends, which easily popped off the tie
 rod
 from the wheel carrier.  Pulling link and camber link were next, but
 couldn't complete the installation of these without new hardware, coming
 in
 the next box of goodies from Rusty.



 Good news for OK Don:  Both Toolsource and Sir Tools have offered to
 replace
 the broken M0085 under warranty, so you will be getting either a new tool
 or
 a new bolt.  Toolsource says they've already shipped a replacement tool,
 but
 I've got to return the broken tool to ensure it's covered by the 
 warranty.
 Sir Tools says that they won't have a replacement bolt until January, but
 we
 probably won't have to wait for that.



 If a certain box is delivered this afternoon, I may be able to entertain
 you
 all with a happy ending later tonight!



 Very respectfully,
 /s/
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD 332k miles

 '95 E300 277k miles

 '73 Balboa 20





 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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To search

Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

2010-12-17 Thread Max Dillon
I'm considering rebuilding the power steering pump on my '95, which has 
developed a leak; that would be a nice project to post a blow-by-blow.

Another place that I could put it would be on the MBCA forums.  Maybe I should 
do both.

-Max






From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thu, December 16, 2010 10:37:09 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

Google Blogspot lets you set up a blog, you can post pictures and text 
and whatever.

--R

On 12/16/2010 5:53 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 Yes, I thought about that, but I don't have a place to share the pictures.
 Lousy excuse - I'm sure someone on this list could have helped me out, but
 that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

 I do plan to write up a comprehensive step-by-step with lessons learned,
 tools, part numbers, etc, but don't anyone hold their breath.  Maybe that
 will be a good project for the Christmas break.

 -Max

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
 Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 5:28 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

 You need to take some pics and post all this on a web site or blog.  I
 guess it is too late, but it would be nice if everyone did that.
 Doesn't take long and is very helpful to see the actual job with comments.

 --R

 On 12/16/2010 5:06 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 Over the last couple of nights I've been pecking away at the left side
 links/bushings on my 300TD.  I started by pulling the wheel, brake
 caliper,
 and rotor, and then taking loose the parking brake shoes and the brake
 backing plate/dust shield.  On my '95, I didn't need to loosen the brake
 backing plate, but on this '87 car it is required and makes the whole job
 much easier.   The spring link came off next, using a trolley jack to
 lower
 it to let the spring relax so it could be safely removed.



 I used the Sir Tools M0085 bushing press (with stripped threads on the
 bolt)
 in combination with the Harbor Freight ball joint tool to press out the
 outer spring link bushing which is in the bottom of the wheel carrier.  On
 this side of the car, the wheel carrier casting was different which made
 placing the cups of the M0085 much easier so that it sat perfectly flush
 on
 the edge of the bushing and it came out quite nicely.  Cleaned up the hole
 with wire brush, lubricated with anti-seize paste, and pulled the new
 bushing in with the M0085 (the end threads are still good enough to do
 this
 part of the job).



 Next I replaced the thrust link and the tie-rod link; again I used the MB
 special tool for removing tied rod ends, which easily popped off the tie
 rod
 from the wheel carrier.  Pulling link and camber link were next, but
 couldn't complete the installation of these without new hardware, coming
 in
 the next box of goodies from Rusty.



 Good news for OK Don:  Both Toolsource and Sir Tools have offered to
 replace
 the broken M0085 under warranty, so you will be getting either a new tool
 or
 a new bolt.  Toolsource says they've already shipped a replacement tool,
 but
 I've got to return the broken tool to ensure it's covered by the warranty.
 Sir Tools says that they won't have a replacement bolt until January, but
 we
 probably won't have to wait for that.



 If a certain box is delivered this afternoon, I may be able to entertain
 you
 all with a happy ending later tonight!



 Very respectfully,
 /s/
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD 332k miles

 '95 E300 277k miles

 '73 Balboa 20





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Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

2010-12-17 Thread Max Dillon
Thanks Kaleb, perhaps I'll do that as well.  I've never looked around on your 
sight after the great meltdown back when Dick (?) ran it for $2000 per month on 
Rusty's dime.

-Max





From: Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thu, December 16, 2010 10:54:53 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

send it to me and I will put it up

On 12/16/2010 4:53 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 Yes, I thought about that, but I don't have a place to share the pictures.
 Lousy excuse - I'm sure someone on this list could have helped me out, but
 that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
 
 I do plan to write up a comprehensive step-by-step with lessons learned,
 tools, part numbers, etc, but don't anyone hold their breath.  Maybe that
 will be a good project for the Christmas break.
 
 -Max

-- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Sil-Glyde

2010-12-17 Thread Max Dillon
If you or anyone else wants to shorten the life from decades to maybe just 
years, perhaps you could sell some little 1x or 2x application amounts in 
ziplock bags?

Where does one get some Sil-Glyde?

-Max





From: relng...@aol.com relng...@aol.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Fri, December 17, 2010 12:40:02 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sil-Glyde

Oh oh.

Not Ru-Glyde, but Sil-Glyde. Had a tube of it for decades. Defintely 
superior to something that will run to the bottom.

RLE
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Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

2010-12-17 Thread Max Dillon
Speaking of posting pictures, FYI most gps-enabled cell phones (i.e. 
Blackberries, i-phones, etc) will geo-tag pictures with the location the 
picture 
was taken.  If the photographer then shares that photo on-line, they've also 
posted the date/time and location of the photo.  Folks with privacy (or OPSEC) 
considerations might not like to have such info in the public domain, where 
nefarious intentions can lead to bad results.





From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thu, December 16, 2010 10:37:09 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

Google Blogspot lets you set up a blog, you can post pictures and text 
and whatever.

--R

On 12/16/2010 5:53 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 Yes, I thought about that, but I don't have a place to share the pictures.
 Lousy excuse - I'm sure someone on this list could have helped me out, but
 that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

 I do plan to write up a comprehensive step-by-step with lessons learned,
 tools, part numbers, etc, but don't anyone hold their breath.  Maybe that
 will be a good project for the Christmas break.

 -Max

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
 Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 5:28 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

 You need to take some pics and post all this on a web site or blog.  I
 guess it is too late, but it would be nice if everyone did that.
 Doesn't take long and is very helpful to see the actual job with comments.

 --R

 On 12/16/2010 5:06 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 Over the last couple of nights I've been pecking away at the left side
 links/bushings on my 300TD.  I started by pulling the wheel, brake
 caliper,
 and rotor, and then taking loose the parking brake shoes and the brake
 backing plate/dust shield.  On my '95, I didn't need to loosen the brake
 backing plate, but on this '87 car it is required and makes the whole job
 much easier.   The spring link came off next, using a trolley jack to
 lower
 it to let the spring relax so it could be safely removed.



 I used the Sir Tools M0085 bushing press (with stripped threads on the
 bolt)
 in combination with the Harbor Freight ball joint tool to press out the
 outer spring link bushing which is in the bottom of the wheel carrier.  On
 this side of the car, the wheel carrier casting was different which made
 placing the cups of the M0085 much easier so that it sat perfectly flush
 on
 the edge of the bushing and it came out quite nicely.  Cleaned up the hole
 with wire brush, lubricated with anti-seize paste, and pulled the new
 bushing in with the M0085 (the end threads are still good enough to do
 this
 part of the job).



 Next I replaced the thrust link and the tie-rod link; again I used the MB
 special tool for removing tied rod ends, which easily popped off the tie
 rod
 from the wheel carrier.  Pulling link and camber link were next, but
 couldn't complete the installation of these without new hardware, coming
 in
 the next box of goodies from Rusty.



 Good news for OK Don:  Both Toolsource and Sir Tools have offered to
 replace
 the broken M0085 under warranty, so you will be getting either a new tool
 or
 a new bolt.  Toolsource says they've already shipped a replacement tool,
 but
 I've got to return the broken tool to ensure it's covered by the warranty.
 Sir Tools says that they won't have a replacement bolt until January, but
 we
 probably won't have to wait for that.



 If a certain box is delivered this afternoon, I may be able to entertain
 you
 all with a happy ending later tonight!



 Very respectfully,
 /s/
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD 332k miles

 '95 E300 277k miles

 '73 Balboa 20





 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

2010-12-17 Thread Max Dillon
It's more fun being paranoid - did you put on your AFDB before reading my post?

-Max





From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Fri, December 17, 2010 10:01:02 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

On the other hand, someone with an interest in working on cars might 
show up to help you.

--R

On 12/17/2010 9:31 AM, Max Dillon wrote:
 Speaking of posting pictures, FYI most gps-enabled cell phones (i.e.
 Blackberries, i-phones, etc) will geo-tag pictures with the location the 
picture
 was taken.  If the photographer then shares that photo on-line, they've also
 posted the date/time and location of the photo.  Folks with privacy (or OPSEC)
 considerations might not like to have such info in the public domain, where
 nefarious intentions can lead to bad results.




 
 From: Rich Thomasrichthomas79td...@constructivity.net
 To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Thu, December 16, 2010 10:37:09 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

 Google Blogspot lets you set up a blog, you can post pictures and text
 and whatever.

 --R

 On 12/16/2010 5:53 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 Yes, I thought about that, but I don't have a place to share the pictures.
 Lousy excuse - I'm sure someone on this list could have helped me out, but
 that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

 I do plan to write up a comprehensive step-by-step with lessons learned,
 tools, part numbers, etc, but don't anyone hold their breath.  Maybe that
 will be a good project for the Christmas break.

 -Max

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
 Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 5:28 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

 You need to take some pics and post all this on a web site or blog.  I
 guess it is too late, but it would be nice if everyone did that.
 Doesn't take long and is very helpful to see the actual job with comments.

 --R

 On 12/16/2010 5:06 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 Over the last couple of nights I've been pecking away at the left side
 links/bushings on my 300TD.  I started by pulling the wheel, brake
 caliper,
 and rotor, and then taking loose the parking brake shoes and the brake
 backing plate/dust shield.  On my '95, I didn't need to loosen the brake
 backing plate, but on this '87 car it is required and makes the whole job
 much easier.   The spring link came off next, using a trolley jack to
 lower
 it to let the spring relax so it could be safely removed.



 I used the Sir Tools M0085 bushing press (with stripped threads on the
 bolt)
 in combination with the Harbor Freight ball joint tool to press out the
 outer spring link bushing which is in the bottom of the wheel carrier.  On
 this side of the car, the wheel carrier casting was different which made
 placing the cups of the M0085 much easier so that it sat perfectly flush
 on
 the edge of the bushing and it came out quite nicely.  Cleaned up the hole
 with wire brush, lubricated with anti-seize paste, and pulled the new
 bushing in with the M0085 (the end threads are still good enough to do
 this
 part of the job).



 Next I replaced the thrust link and the tie-rod link; again I used the MB
 special tool for removing tied rod ends, which easily popped off the tie
 rod
 from the wheel carrier.  Pulling link and camber link were next, but
 couldn't complete the installation of these without new hardware, coming
 in
 the next box of goodies from Rusty.



 Good news for OK Don:  Both Toolsource and Sir Tools have offered to
 replace
 the broken M0085 under warranty, so you will be getting either a new tool
 or
 a new bolt.  Toolsource says they've already shipped a replacement tool,
 but
 I've got to return the broken tool to ensure it's covered by the warranty.
 Sir Tools says that they won't have a replacement bolt until January, but
 we
 probably won't have to wait for that.



 If a certain box is delivered this afternoon, I may be able to entertain
 you
 all with a happy ending later tonight!



 Very respectfully,
 /s/
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD 332k miles

 '95 E300 277k miles

 '73 Balboa 20





 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

2010-12-17 Thread Max Dillon
Maybe - some phones make it challenging, some are easy.  Dig into the manual, 
or 
figure out if the data is embedded with your photo and see if that data changes 
or goes away when you change the setting.

-Max (whose cell phone doesn't even take pictures).





From: l02tur...@comcast.net l02tur...@comcast.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Fri, December 17, 2010 1:58:15 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

My cell phone (Verizon /Motorola) has a menu item saying Location on/off 
which means I can urn my location on or off - for 911 purposes IIRC.

I wonder if that does the same thing you mentioned with photos?

LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Max Dillon
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2010 9:31 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

Speaking of posting pictures, FYI most gps-enabled cell phones (i.e.
Blackberries, i-phones, etc) will geo-tag pictures with the location the 
picture
was taken.  If the photographer then shares that photo on-line, they've also
posted the date/time and location of the photo.  Folks with privacy (or 
OPSEC)
considerations might not like to have such info in the public domain, where
nefarious intentions can lead to bad results.





From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thu, December 16, 2010 10:37:09 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

Google Blogspot lets you set up a blog, you can post pictures and text
and whatever.

--R

On 12/16/2010 5:53 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 Yes, I thought about that, but I don't have a place to share the pictures.
 Lousy excuse - I'm sure someone on this list could have helped me out, but
 that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

 I do plan to write up a comprehensive step-by-step with lessons learned,
 tools, part numbers, etc, but don't anyone hold their breath.  Maybe that
 will be a good project for the Christmas break.

 -Max

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
 Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 5:28 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

 You need to take some pics and post all this on a web site or blog.  I
 guess it is too late, but it would be nice if everyone did that.
 Doesn't take long and is very helpful to see the actual job with comments.

 --R

 On 12/16/2010 5:06 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 Over the last couple of nights I've been pecking away at the left side
 links/bushings on my 300TD.  I started by pulling the wheel, brake
 caliper,
 and rotor, and then taking loose the parking brake shoes and the brake
 backing plate/dust shield.  On my '95, I didn't need to loosen the brake
 backing plate, but on this '87 car it is required and makes the whole job
 much easier.   The spring link came off next, using a trolley jack to
 lower
 it to let the spring relax so it could be safely removed.



 I used the Sir Tools M0085 bushing press (with stripped threads on the
 bolt)
 in combination with the Harbor Freight ball joint tool to press out the
 outer spring link bushing which is in the bottom of the wheel carrier. 
 On
 this side of the car, the wheel carrier casting was different which made
 placing the cups of the M0085 much easier so that it sat perfectly flush
 on
 the edge of the bushing and it came out quite nicely.  Cleaned up the 
 hole
 with wire brush, lubricated with anti-seize paste, and pulled the new
 bushing in with the M0085 (the end threads are still good enough to do
 this
 part of the job).



 Next I replaced the thrust link and the tie-rod link; again I used the MB
 special tool for removing tied rod ends, which easily popped off the tie
 rod
 from the wheel carrier.  Pulling link and camber link were next, but
 couldn't complete the installation of these without new hardware, coming
 in
 the next box of goodies from Rusty.



 Good news for OK Don:  Both Toolsource and Sir Tools have offered to
 replace
 the broken M0085 under warranty, so you will be getting either a new tool
 or
 a new bolt.  Toolsource says they've already shipped a replacement tool,
 but
 I've got to return the broken tool to ensure it's covered by the 
 warranty.
 Sir Tools says that they won't have a replacement bolt until January, but
 we
 probably won't have to wait for that.



 If a certain box is delivered this afternoon, I may be able to entertain
 you
 all with a happy ending later tonight!



 Very respectfully,
 /s/
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD 332k miles

 '95 E300 277k miles

 '73 Balboa 20





 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery

Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

2010-12-17 Thread Max Dillon
I wonder how much of that difference was due to the size (195/65 vs. 205/60)?  
Seems intuitive that the 205/60 would have better grip dry than a 195/65, all 
else being equal, but I suspect that there can be wide variation from batch to 
batch of tires from the same maker.  However, even though purchasing tires 
seems 
like taking a chance no matter how much research one does, I'll bet the quality 
across the board is far higher now that it was decades ago (similar to 
improvements in motor oils).

-Max





From: l02tur...@comcast.net l02tur...@comcast.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Fri, December 17, 2010 2:41:23 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

I put Goodyear Eagles (195-65-15s) on the 91 300D shortly after we bought it 
and 
was very disappointed with their performance - poor wet, poor dry and rapid 
wear.  The Kuhmo Extsa's on it now seem the opposite!  I guess the car is very 
important when it comes to tire performance - we had exactly the opposite 
results --
Go figger -

LarryT
91 300D

-Original Message- From: Mitch Haley
Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2010 8:13 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tire decision time: 195/65 or 205/60?

Max Dillon wrote:
 So does anyone on this list run 205/60R15 tires on a 124?  I'd like to stay
 with the factory rating, but I'm considering whatever trade-off may be
 required if I can save $100 or so.

My 2.3-16v came with proper size worn out Goodyears (205/55vr15 on aftermarket
rims.) Those Eagles were hard and shiny, but it cornered better than with the
new Kumhos I put on it (195/65/15 on narrower 190D rims)

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Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

2010-12-17 Thread Max Dillon
So do I!

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Craig
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2010 4:54 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

On Fri, 17 Dec 2010 03:52:06 -0800 (PST) Max Dillon
meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 I'm considering rebuilding the power steering pump on my '95, which has 
 developed a leak; that would be a nice project to post a blow-by-blow.

I sure hope it's easier getting it out of your '95 than it was getting it
out of our '94.


Craig

--
Present:'94 E420117 kmi
'82 240D/3.0264 kmi
Past:   '86 190E/2.3
'72 220/8
'64 190Dc
'72 220D/8

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Re: [MBZ] Where is everyone?

2010-12-18 Thread Max Dillon
Have fresh box from Rusty - will be installing new bits for rest of the
day...

-Max


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[MBZ] What is a '72 280SEL 4.5 worth?

2010-12-18 Thread Max Dillon
My father is offering a 'family price' for his '72 280SEL.  It is very
straight and rust free, and the interior is fresh (transplant from a
different car), but has been poorly painted in a two-tone scheme which is
now flaking off.  Original color looks like ivory, some PO painted the lower
half a caramel color.  So, to make the car really nice, it will need to be
sanded and painted.

 

It has an automatic transmission, fuel injected V8, after-market AC, and
he's put a lot of time and $$ into fixing it up and is now bored with it.
He bought it in AZ a few years ago, so it is supposedly rust free, but I
have not yet seen the car.

 

I need a third MB like I need a hole in my head, but I really like the style
of this car.  SWMBO also thinks it is a beauty, but she is also leery of
taking on another project.  I'm thinking that an $80 roller-paint job
would be in order, nice little summer project to keep me off the streets.

 

Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 332k miles

'95 E300 277k miles 

'73 Balboa 20

 

 

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Re: [MBZ] What is a '72 280SEL 4.5 worth?

2010-12-18 Thread Max Dillon
HaHaHa.  My Dad never keeps a car longer than about three years, almost like
our Donald.  

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2010 1:53 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] What is a '72 280SEL 4.5 worth?

Max, that is your DAD's car!  If you don't adopt it you will forever be 
kicking yourself.  And your daughter is only a few years away from 
driving

--R

On 12/18/2010 1:40 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 My father is offering a 'family price' for his '72 280SEL.  It is very
 straight and rust free, and the interior is fresh (transplant from a
 different car), but has been poorly painted in a two-tone scheme which is
 now flaking off.  Original color looks like ivory, some PO painted the
lower
 half a caramel color.  So, to make the car really nice, it will need to be
 sanded and painted.



 It has an automatic transmission, fuel injected V8, after-market AC, and
 he's put a lot of time and $$ into fixing it up and is now bored with it.
 He bought it in AZ a few years ago, so it is supposedly rust free, but I
 have not yet seen the car.



 I need a third MB like I need a hole in my head, but I really like the
style
 of this car.  SWMBO also thinks it is a beauty, but she is also leery of
 taking on another project.  I'm thinking that an $80 roller-paint job
 would be in order, nice little summer project to keep me off the streets.



 Very respectfully,
 /s/
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD 332k miles

 '95 E300 277k miles

 '73 Balboa 20





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Re: [MBZ] more 140 ignorance and hate

2010-12-19 Thread Max Dillon
Here Here!  I second the motion - almost coughed up my cereal reading that
one!

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Dieselhead
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 9:20 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] more 140 ignorance and hate

Kaleb,  This belong on your famous quotes page.  It is extremely 
hilarious, coming from the master of flaming.


Hursty sez:

you guys really act viciously and abnormally and i don't think you see it
at
all

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Re: [MBZ] What is a '72 280SEL 4.5 worth?

2010-12-19 Thread Max Dillon
Also, daughter has already claimed the '95; with my luck, I add another much
better looking car, and she'll claim both!

So no one has an opinion on the market for a solid but cosmetically
challenged '72 280SEL? 

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2010 1:53 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] What is a '72 280SEL 4.5 worth?

Max, that is your DAD's car!  If you don't adopt it you will forever be 
kicking yourself.  And your daughter is only a few years away from 
driving

--R

On 12/18/2010 1:40 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 My father is offering a 'family price' for his '72 280SEL.  It is very
 straight and rust free, and the interior is fresh (transplant from a
 different car), but has been poorly painted in a two-tone scheme which is
 now flaking off.  Original color looks like ivory, some PO painted the
lower
 half a caramel color.  So, to make the car really nice, it will need to be
 sanded and painted.



 It has an automatic transmission, fuel injected V8, after-market AC, and
 he's put a lot of time and $$ into fixing it up and is now bored with it.
 He bought it in AZ a few years ago, so it is supposedly rust free, but I
 have not yet seen the car.



 I need a third MB like I need a hole in my head, but I really like the
style
 of this car.  SWMBO also thinks it is a beauty, but she is also leery of
 taking on another project.  I'm thinking that an $80 roller-paint job
 would be in order, nice little summer project to keep me off the streets.



 Very respectfully,
 /s/
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD 332k miles

 '95 E300 277k miles

 '73 Balboa 20





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Re: [MBZ] What is a '72 280SEL 4.5 worth?

2010-12-19 Thread Max Dillon
OK thanks Kaleb, generally you've got the true price of a car nailed.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 9:51 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] What is a '72 280SEL 4.5 worth?

The market is so screwed up right now I just dont want to say.  Might be 
worth 1k, maybe more, maybe less.  Look around the net and see what they 
are selling for.

Max Dillon wrote:
 Also, daughter has already claimed the '95; with my luck, I add another
much
 better looking car, and she'll claim both!

 So no one has an opinion on the market for a solid but cosmetically
 challenged '72 280SEL? 

 -Max

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
 Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2010 1:53 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] What is a '72 280SEL 4.5 worth?

 Max, that is your DAD's car!  If you don't adopt it you will forever be 
 kicking yourself.  And your daughter is only a few years away from 
 driving

 --R

 On 12/18/2010 1:40 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
   
 My father is offering a 'family price' for his '72 280SEL.  It is very
 straight and rust free, and the interior is fresh (transplant from a
 different car), but has been poorly painted in a two-tone scheme which is
 now flaking off.  Original color looks like ivory, some PO painted the
 
 lower
   
 half a caramel color.  So, to make the car really nice, it will need to
be
 sanded and painted.



 It has an automatic transmission, fuel injected V8, after-market AC, and
 he's put a lot of time and $$ into fixing it up and is now bored with it.
 He bought it in AZ a few years ago, so it is supposedly rust free, but I
 have not yet seen the car.



 I need a third MB like I need a hole in my head, but I really like the
 
 style
   
 of this car.  SWMBO also thinks it is a beauty, but she is also leery of
 taking on another project.  I'm thinking that an $80 roller-paint job
 would be in order, nice little summer project to keep me off the streets.



 Very respectfully,
 /s/
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '87 300TD 332k miles

 '95 E300 277k miles

 '73 Balboa 20





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Re: [MBZ] What is a '72 280SEL 4.5 worth?

2010-12-19 Thread Max Dillon
Thanks Peter - good info re: mileage - hadn't considered that aspect.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 10:16 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] What is a '72 280SEL 4.5 worth?

All depends on the local market.  It is no longer likely you will  
find a mechanic who can work on one unless they specialize in  
antiques, they get horrible milage (12-16, usually more to the low  
end), parts are getting scarce, too.

Wonderful cars in good shape, but I think mine is sucumbing to rust  
disease at last.  Sad, but I really can't use a car that gets 12 mpg.

Fully restored they go for about $12000 if you can find a buyer, but  
sedans are never a collector's item.

Mine is available if anyone wants one, I'm not driving it and hate to  
junk it, but need to get some cars out of the drive.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Is this a good of a deal as it looks

2010-12-19 Thread Max Dillon
Only if it doesn't have serious problems, which I will predict that it does
based on the price, gutted seat controls for the driver and the missing
center cap on LF wheel.

Locally there was a '95 wagon on CL a month ago that looked superb for
$3500, THAT is the kind of deal that tempts me...

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Bob Rentfro
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 10:21 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Is this a good of a deal as it looks

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/2119667411.html

Bob R
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Re: [MBZ] What is a '72 280SEL 4.5 worth?

2010-12-19 Thread Max Dillon
Bingo - what price does SWMBO think is a good price?  That is the
question...

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of E M
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 4:02 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] What is a '72 280SEL 4.5 worth?

If you wanted a project car, and you knew you had to justify the price to
your wife, pretty much figure that's the story some guys going to have to
pitch to his wife.  So, it's not what the car is worth, but what amount do
you think some guy's wife would tolerate for a hobby for hubby?  What would
your wife let you pay for it, if it was a stray looking for a new home?

Ed
300E

On 19 December 2010 15:45, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 OK thanks Kaleb, generally you've got the true price of a car nailed.

 -Max

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
 Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 9:51 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] What is a '72 280SEL 4.5 worth?

 The market is so screwed up right now I just dont want to say.  Might be
 worth 1k, maybe more, maybe less.  Look around the net and see what they
 are selling for.

 Max Dillon wrote:
  Also, daughter has already claimed the '95; with my luck, I add another
 much
  better looking car, and she'll claim both!
 
  So no one has an opinion on the market for a solid but cosmetically
  challenged '72 280SEL?
 
  -Max
 
  -Original Message-
  From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:
 mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
  On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
  Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2010 1:53 PM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] What is a '72 280SEL 4.5 worth?
 
  Max, that is your DAD's car!  If you don't adopt it you will forever be
  kicking yourself.  And your daughter is only a few years away from
  driving
 
  --R
 
  On 12/18/2010 1:40 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 
  My father is offering a 'family price' for his '72 280SEL.  It is very
  straight and rust free, and the interior is fresh (transplant from a
  different car), but has been poorly painted in a two-tone scheme which
 is
  now flaking off.  Original color looks like ivory, some PO painted the
 
  lower
 
  half a caramel color.  So, to make the car really nice, it will need to
 be
  sanded and painted.
 
 
 
  It has an automatic transmission, fuel injected V8, after-market AC,
and
  he's put a lot of time and $$ into fixing it up and is now bored with
 it.
  He bought it in AZ a few years ago, so it is supposedly rust free, but
I
  have not yet seen the car.
 
 
 
  I need a third MB like I need a hole in my head, but I really like the
 
  style
 
  of this car.  SWMBO also thinks it is a beauty, but she is also leery
of
  taking on another project.  I'm thinking that an $80 roller-paint job
  would be in order, nice little summer project to keep me off the
 streets.
 
 
 
  Very respectfully,
  /s/
  Max Dillon
  Charleston SC
  '87 300TD 332k miles
 
  '95 E300 277k miles
 
  '73 Balboa 20
 
 
 
 
 
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  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] modern automotive design (was W140)

2010-12-19 Thread Max Dillon
I think the 124 evaporators went the other way; started out fine in 86/87,
but in the 90's they went down hill.  Basically the same as the wiring
harnesses.

-Max (with a '95 124 with new replacement harness, suspiciously low on
r134...)

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 1:24 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] modern automotive design (was W140)

John Freer wrote:
  People also equate the
 evaporator and wiring harness failures to the W140 but I suspect there
 are just a few W124 owners who have had some bad experiences in these
 areas as well.
 John

But weren't the W124 evaporators pretty much straightened out by 1992?
Seems like that would have taught them how to do the W140 evaps right by the

time the W140 hit these shores.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] What is a '72 280SEL 4.5 worth?

2010-12-19 Thread Max Dillon
If I bought this car, it would mostly be a garage queen, used for Friday
night dates and other social occasions, so I don't think the fuel
consumption would be too much of an issue.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 5:16 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] What is a '72 280SEL 4.5 worth?

Not that they aren't a wonderful car to drive, and a great ride all  
round, it's just that they really aren't an economic means of  
transportation.  Mine does much better in the snow and ice than my 87  
300D, but I still hate to drive it at 14 mpg on premium.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

2010-12-19 Thread Max Dillon
OK 124 (and 201) experts, here's my puzzle.  After replacing the four links
and also the bushings at each end of the spring link, I STILL have negative
camber on my 124 wagon.  It is better, but it's still there.  :(

So, I've thought of a couple of causes and options.

1) Eccentric bolt and elongated holes at the inner end of either the spring
link or the camber link, and adjust the camber directly.  There is a note in
the Tech. Modification notes of the service manual that the very early 124
cars had such an adjustment, but it was eliminated.

2) Rear springs are worn out; Replace em!

3) Rear spring pads are worn out; Replace em!

How can I measure the ride height to determine if the negative camber is due
to decreased ride height?

-Max (feeling a little negative)


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Re: [MBZ] What is a '72 280SEL 4.5 worth?

2010-12-19 Thread Max Dillon
Ed, but you see, the low cost of the paint job figures into the true price
of the car, which is How much will SWMBO let me spend?  Let's say I spend
$1000 on the car, and then $1000 (or more!!) on paint.  Then I'll have a
beautifully painted in car, in which I can sleep every night - NOT!

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of E M
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 10:53 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] What is a '72 280SEL 4.5 worth?

If it's going to be a garage queen and saved for special occasions, you
might want to rethink that $70 bucket and roller paint job. hee hee. ;-)

Ed
300E

On 19 December 2010 22:40, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 If I bought this car, it would mostly be a garage queen, used for Friday
 night dates and other social occasions, so I don't think the fuel
 consumption would be too much of an issue.

 -Max

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Peter Frederick
 Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 5:16 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] What is a '72 280SEL 4.5 worth?

 Not that they aren't a wonderful car to drive, and a great ride all
 round, it's just that they really aren't an economic means of
 transportation.  Mine does much better in the snow and ice than my 87
 300D, but I still hate to drive it at 14 mpg on premium.

 Peter

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Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

2010-12-19 Thread Max Dillon
Let me clarify: Option 1 should read Modify the rear suspension by adding
eccentric bolt and making elongated holes at ...

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Max Dillon
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 11:01 PM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

OK 124 (and 201) experts, here's my puzzle.  After replacing the four links
and also the bushings at each end of the spring link, I STILL have negative
camber on my 124 wagon.  It is better, but it's still there.  :(

So, I've thought of a couple of causes and options.

1) Eccentric bolt and elongated holes at the inner end of either the spring
link or the camber link, and adjust the camber directly.  There is a note in
the Tech. Modification notes of the service manual that the very early 124
cars had such an adjustment, but it was eliminated.

2) Rear springs are worn out; Replace em!

3) Rear spring pads are worn out; Replace em!

How can I measure the ride height to determine if the negative camber is due
to decreased ride height?

-Max (feeling a little negative)


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Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

2010-12-20 Thread Max Dillon
That's a great thought Ed - someone did exactly that (David Bruckman?) for
the 123 wagons, I need a similar savior for my 124 wagon...

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of E M
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 11:13 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

Maybe someone on the list has a similar car, that they know for sure the
suspension is setup right.  If so, maybe they can take a measurement of a
fixed point on the underside, to give you a baseline of what your car's ride
height should be?

Just a thought I'm throwing out there.  I'm sitting on the side lines,
reading and taking all this in and learning what I can.  I figure soon or
later, I'll need to do all this too if I keep the car long enough.

Ed
300E

On 19 December 2010 23:01, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 OK 124 (and 201) experts, here's my puzzle.  After replacing the four
links
 and also the bushings at each end of the spring link, I STILL have
negative
 camber on my 124 wagon.  It is better, but it's still there.  :(

 So, I've thought of a couple of causes and options.

 1) Eccentric bolt and elongated holes at the inner end of either the
spring
 link or the camber link, and adjust the camber directly.  There is a note
 in
 the Tech. Modification notes of the service manual that the very early 124
 cars had such an adjustment, but it was eliminated.

 2) Rear springs are worn out; Replace em!

 3) Rear spring pads are worn out; Replace em!

 How can I measure the ride height to determine if the negative camber is
 due
 to decreased ride height?

 -Max (feeling a little negative)


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Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

2010-12-20 Thread Max Dillon
What!!?! An MB suspension that doesn't hold up for a million miles?
Heresy!!! Burn him! Burn him!

Actually, I was thinking the same - stretching or deforming somewhere - but
that is a terrible thought.

Taking the car in for new tires and alignment today, I'll ask the shop but
they're tire/brake folks.  Maybe I should call the local MB wizard shop to
see what they think (they do a lot of body work).

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Dieselhead
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 11:49 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

I have pondered this phenomenon, but have no direct answer.  My 
suspicion is that maybe somehow the spring link (LCA) stretches under 
high mileage.  Perhaps the link mountings distort, but nothing is 
obvious.

With this phenomenon, I have not suspected springs as the springs and 
rubber seats appear ok, and the height seems ok.  I have NOT measured 
the height.

Perhaps a really good frame straightening shop can help.  They should 
have all the measurements etc.

A friend has a 00 volvo that has been crabbing really bad, and 
pulling to the left.  many alignment and vovlo only shops could not 
fix it or find a problem.  I suggested he find a frame straightening 
shop.  He took it in and they immediately found the problem and fixed 
it.  He is very happy now.

I CAN tell you that you are not alone.



OK 124 (and 201) experts, here's my puzzle.  After replacing the four links
and also the bushings at each end of the spring link, I STILL have negative
camber on my 124 wagon.  It is better, but it's still there.  :(

So, I've thought of a couple of causes and options.

1) Eccentric bolt and elongated holes at the inner end of either the spring
link or the camber link, and adjust the camber directly.  There is a note
in
the Tech. Modification notes of the service manual that the very early 124
cars had such an adjustment, but it was eliminated.

2) Rear springs are worn out; Replace em!

3) Rear spring pads are worn out; Replace em!

How can I measure the ride height to determine if the negative camber is
due
to decreased ride height?

-Max (feeling a little negative)


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Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

2010-12-20 Thread Max Dillon
Yes, I forgot to order new spring pads.  I may decide to replace those,
fortunately now I know that getting out the springs is not a big deal at
all.  And yes, according to the technical data book, negative camber is
normal, so maybe I'm making a fuss over nothing!  Will ask tire shop to
measure and report the camber.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 11:12 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The continuing 124 rear suspension saga

I would have replaced the spring pads when I did the links (as I plan  
to do on mine) -- if the rubber in the links is bad, the rubber in  
the pads is also bad.

I know this was a problem with someone else's car a few years back  
but I don't know what the solution was.

There is some negative camber  that is normal, just like a BMW, the  
rear wheels are not supposed to stand straight up and normal ride  
height.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] What is a '72 280SEL 4.5 worth?

2010-12-20 Thread Max Dillon
Yes - that is the website which inspires me.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Monday, December 20, 2010 9:33 AM
To: Diesel List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] What is a '72 280SEL 4.5 worth?

*Ahem* its actually a $50 paint job and have you seen the Corvair the guy
did?
http://www.rickwrench.com/index79.htm
Its all about how much prep you do.
Fred saw the hood I did on my 240D for ~$5 and it looked pretty okay if I do
say so myself. If the rest of the car hadn't been a disaster it might have
been worth painting to match.
I'm convinced that if you take your time you can do just as good a job with
a roller as with a gun. It takes longer sure but doesn't require any special
amount of skill or equipment. Worst problem I had was that my garage is
pretty dirty...

-Curt

Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2010 22:52:47 -0500
From: E M pokieba...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] What is a '72 280SEL 4.5 worth?
Message-ID:
    aanlktik8-pvh=p848cm4mz-q_tyld7wnrot2xgxxp...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

If it's going to be a garage queen and saved for special occasions, you
might want to rethink that $70 bucket and roller paint job. hee hee. ;-)

Ed
300E

On 19 December 2010 22:40, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 If I bought this car, it would mostly be a garage queen, used for Friday
 night dates and other social occasions, so I don't think the fuel
 consumption would be too much of an issue.

 -Max


  
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[MBZ] 124 wagon central locking repair

2010-12-20 Thread Max Dillon
Dieselvolk,

 

Several days ago I found that the central locking on my 124 wagon had ceased
to function.  It has always been partially crippled, only working from the
driver's door, but that was good enough to limp along, but now even the
driver's door didn't lock or unlock.  I studied the manuals to see how it
all works, and found a nice trouble shooting guide.  Step 1: confirm power
and ground to the pump.   Pump is located under carpet under right rear
seat, which requires removing the door jamb and pulling up the carpet.
Chinee plastic wedges from Harbor Freight do the job nicely.   Ground = OK,
but power = 0.41 volts = fail.  Fuse was fine.  The only other connection
point labeled is X30, a big junction under the dash somewhere.  FSM has a
picture which indicates behind the parking brake pedal, so I started
removing layers there; driver's carpet, Styrofoam, floor padding, and
finally the dead-pedal plastic, which revealed X30.

 

Took a little testing to determine which connector of the six is the right
one (hint: only has pin 1 with red/white for power, and pin 3 for ground
which of course is brown).  No continuity between pin 1 at the X30 connector
and the power pin at the pump, so the wire is bad somewhere in between.
Note that there is a multi-junction point somewhere between X30 and the pump
which feeds power to driver's door, passenger door, and rear gate actuators,
but no hint as to where that is in the FSM.  Hand-over-hand along the wiring
loom would require pulling out the seats and pulling up the carpet, which I
don't have time for.  If the inner panels for the doors were pulled, I could
test at the actuators to see which ones are getting power, which might also
help determine the fault location(s), but I don't want to do that yet.

 

I decided to run a new power wire to see if I could restore function.  I
used a pin salvaged from the old '95 E300 wiring harness at the X30 end of
the new wire to connect to 12v power, and then added the new wire to the pin
at the pump, so that power is fed down both ends of the old wire.  It works!
Ran the new wire underneath the rear seat over the left rear door, and then
pulled up the door jambs and fed the wire forward to the driver's foot well.
Put all the layers and door jambs back in place, and the only place the new
wire is visible is at the left rear door jamb (about two inches show between
seat cushion and door jamb).

 

Not a perfect fix, but good enough for now.

 

 

Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 332k miles

'95 E300 277k miles 

'73 Balboa 20

 

 

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Re: [MBZ] Sil-Glyde

2010-12-20 Thread Max Dillon
Don't think so - my 'puter displayed the Chinese characters just fine, no
installations required.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Gerry Archer
Sent: Monday, December 20, 2010 7:00 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sil-Glyde

Received an MBZ email from E M (Ed) that was followed by a series of 
characters and numbers.  When I tried to open it, a field popped up saying: 
To display language characters
correctly you need to install the following language pack.  On the next 
line it said Chinese simplified.  The line would not patch into this email

and I didn't install the language pack.   Malware?
Gerry

From: E M pokieba...@gmail.com
Hi Larry,
There has been quite a bit of traffic on the Benz list.  If you don't start
to receive posts soon, drop me a note, and I'll forward it to Kaleb and see
if he can help.  I average about 25 or so posts a day from the B list.
Take care Larry,
Ed
300E

On 20 December 2010 17:38, l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:

 Ed -
 Haven't had any new posts since this one on 12/17 - I know ya'll aren't
 being THAT quiet.

 Kaleb -- Ever find a Drivers Door Lock actuator?

 Thx
 LarryT
 91 300D



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Re: [MBZ] 124 rear suspension rebuild - who's BTDT?

2010-12-21 Thread Max Dillon
OK Don,

I used that with a coupling to press out the LBJs on my '95 E300, and used 
Rusty's rental press to install the new ($35 to rent it, cost me ~$18 to ship 
it 
insured back to Rusty).  I also have a couple of sets of 3/4 and 1/2 impact 
sockets from HF, one of which I used to help press out the joint (socket on the 
top of the joint, coupling on the bottom to hold the control arm).

I will send you the coupling with the M0085, please send it back when you're 
done.  Is January OK to ship?  Need to send me your address.  


A colleague who has a machine shop at his home made this coupling for me.  He 
had a piece of scrap that was almost exactly the right size diameter.  He said 
the material is harder than woodpecker lips and I believe him.  I also used a 
oxygen/Mapp gas torch to heat the control arm at the LBJ to about 500 degrees F 
(measured using my HF non-contact thermometer) which made the old joints come 
out very easily.  I bought the torch for $55 at our local Tractor Supply store, 
which is a pretty cool chain similar to Fleet Farm or Farm  Fleet.  Our local 
Lowes sells the fuel tanks for it; I've found that I used about four O2 tanks 
for each Mapp tank.  I've used the torch many times now - it really is a nice 
addition to the tool box!

-Max





From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Mon, December 20, 2010 9:54:26 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 rear suspension rebuild - who's BTDT?

Is this the HF ball joint press tool that people are using?
http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/steering/3-in-1-ball-joint-u-joint-c-frame-press-service-kit-38335.html

Other than the fittings, how is it different from a large c-clamp (6)?

-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Question for Jaime and others w. MBUSA connections - or - How to get NLA parts demand onto the MB radar

2010-12-21 Thread Max Dillon
I think your best shot is sending the note to Tom Hanson and asking him about 
such a demand list.  I think that if you keep your continuing use of a 
Mercedes-Benz at a level of attention with MB (for instance, getting the high 
mileage badges, ordering parts at the dealer occasionally, maybe using the 
dealer service department once in a while or more often if inclined), they have 
a good idea of world-wide population for that model and can forecast parts 
demand so that they can decide when and how much of a part to put back into 
production.

-Max





From: David Bruckmann bruckma...@transcontinental.ca
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tue, December 21, 2010 2:29:08 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Question for Jaime and others w. MBUSA connections - or - How to 
get NLA parts demand onto the MB radar

The MB policy of actually supporting their classic community is brilliant, and 
I 
am willing to put my money (within reason) on it. As I posted before, I'm 
becoming impatient with aftermarket parts of questionable provenance and will 
pay a premium for OE quality.

A couple of times now I've gone to order something for my W115 and have been 
told by the dealer that the part is NLA and we even checked with the Classic 
Centre. Two parts that come to mind are the rear seat pads and the speaker 
grill assembly (the one that always shrivels up) on later W114/5 dashboards.

Demand for some items like seat pads must be increasing after being close to 
nil 
for many years. When I did the interior in my W115 I got what World Uplholstery 
said was their last set of rear pads, one of which was a NOS genuine part, the 
other had served as their fitting model when they were testing the covers. A 
friend is getting set to do his W115, and World confirmed that the pads are 
NLA. 
Same story from GAHH and Mercedes directly.

A while ago I happened upon a note from Tom Hansen at the Classic Centre that 
the trim pieces for the R107 were once again available after being NLA for a 
while.

So my question: if the part is NLA, but Mercedes-Benz is restarting 
production 
on certain items according to demand, how does one ensure that this demand is 
actually registered with the company. Is there a way of getting onto a list or 
something so that these parts become available? Or do I just send a note to Tom?

D.

PS: to the joy of W116 owners, it appears that those formerly NLA rear seat 
pads 
are once again available in the aftermarket (and a bargain!). Not sure how 
they'll hold up over time, but better than crumbling vestiges of the original...

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Re: [MBZ] 124 rear suspension rebuild - who's BTDT?

2010-12-21 Thread Max Dillon
Yes - what Kaleb said, and it also applies to all the other bushings/joints.

-Max





From: Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tue, December 21, 2010 8:47:17 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 rear suspension rebuild - who's BTDT?

That joint has to go in and out perfectly straight or it wont go 
at all or will be hard and will bend the press

On 12/20/2010 11:01 PM, Fmiser wrote:
 OK Don wrote:
 Is this the HF ball joint press tool that people are using?
http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/steering/3-in-1-ball-joint-u-joint-c-frame-press-service-kit-38335.html
l
 Other than the fittings, how is it different from a large
 c-clamp (6)?
 It's the connection to the fittings that make the difference.

 Mine worked - once.

 I had to sledge-hammer it back into shape about 4 times during
 the pressing of one ball joint.  The joint went in.  I don't
 know that the C part is of any use.

 I have considered welding some _heavy_ side braces onto it...

 -- Philip

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 -
 No virus found in this message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 10.0.1170 / Virus Database: 426/3327 - Release Date: 12/20/10



-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] 124 rear suspension rebuild - who's BTDT?

2010-12-21 Thread Max Dillon
Yes - another good method to use, both for removing and installing.  Combined 
with heat and pressure applied straight/flush, the job isn't too bad at all.

-Max





From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tue, December 21, 2010 8:57:35 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 rear suspension rebuild - who's BTDT?

I had one joint that didn't want to press in.  Rather than springing 
the press, I put tension on it, maybe 50 ft-lb, then whacked the end 
of it with a 4 lb hammer, then tighten, whack etc.  this way the 
press came out looking the same as it started.

The other side went right in.(jus' like the book sez)


   OK Don wrote:

  Is this the HF ball joint press tool that people are using?
 
http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/steering/3-in-1-ball-joint-u-joint-c-frame-press-service-kit-38335.html

  Other than the fittings, how is it different from a large
  c-clamp (6)?

It's the connection to the fittings that make the difference.

Mine worked - once.

I had to sledge-hammer it back into shape about 4 times during
the pressing of one ball joint.  The joint went in.  I don't
know that the C part is of any use.

I have considered welding some _heavy_ side braces onto it...

-- Philip

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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: 124 rear suspension rebuild - who's BTDT?

2010-12-21 Thread Max Dillon
Yes, I'm sure more economical in the long run, but what I've got is pretty much 
perfect for what I do now, and it is very compact - fits into a small canvas 
tool bag $7 from HF, and I can resupply both tanks at most hardware stores, as 
opposed to the big tanks which probably can only be filled/exchanged at a 
welding supply place, which around here is only open 8 to 5 on weekdays.

-Max





From: Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tue, December 21, 2010 9:37:28 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re:  124 rear suspension rebuild - who's BTDT?

 I've found that I used about four O2 tanks for each Mapp tank.

At some point you're probably going to wish you'd gotten
the full-on smoke wrench.  Lots of uses.  Heating things
quickly, welding, cutting...  and you can even use a bright
white flame to get rid of a hornet's nest in your trailer
hitch.  (They attack the flame, not the holder thereof.)

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 4.5 Value AND Question for Jaime and others w. MBUSA connections - or - How to get NLA parts demand onto the MB radar

2010-12-21 Thread Max Dillon
Jaime,

Thanks for your info on the W108 - I didn't even know it is a 108.  I too think 
they're only going to go up in value, and I also agree that there's lots of 
folks on this list (me included) who are bottom feeders and thrive at the 
'frugal' end of the scale.

I really want to get this car, there's just this little problem of getting the 
Chairman of the Finance Committee to agree.

-Max





From: Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tue, December 21, 2010 10:22:02 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 4.5 Value AND Question for Jaime and others w. MBUSA 
connections - or - How to get NLA parts demand onto the MB radar

Hi David,
Max is right... the best thing to do it keep in contact with the
classic center and Tom Hansen.  They're quite dedicated to keeping the
enthusiasts well supplied with what they need.  There have been parts
that go out of stock, then go back in production when demand is
suitable.  (For example, I think this happened with OM617 300D manual
trans flywheels!)

Some parts simply can't be produced anymore due to availability of
materials, processes that become illegal due to environmental
standards, etc. Interior parts are usually the first to go for this
reason (for example, leather interiors).

W114/5 /8 cars have a great following world wide... I'd expect lots of
parts to remain available, even if they need to be sourced in Germany
from some of the specialists there in some cases.

Its important for us, as a community, to promote the value and
collectiblity of these cars.  Values of W110s, 111s, and 108s are
already shooting up since people are treating them more as rare
collectibles, rather than cheap drivers..  /8 cars have been under
valued for years.  W116s are next (believe me, start buying them!).
In a few more years (maybe 10+), everyone will be collecting W123s,
and even W126s.  Just watch.

Which brings up the question asked earlier on the list:  How much is a
W108 4.5 worth?  I didn't say much, but I was shocked to hear $1000.
A decent W108 around here is very hard to find, and anything without
significant rust is worth $2000+ easy in my opinion.  If you can drive
it home, its worth $3500+.  If there is no major issues, $5000-8000+.

A W111 230S just sold locally on eBay for $4600... with a bad, not
original, engine.  A few years ago, this was a $1000 car.  Have a
look:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=150517197572

Times are a changin' for old Mercedes, and its only going to get
better as the values go up and more people start taking them
seriously.

(And I know lots of people on this list won't believe me!).

Jaime


On Tue, Dec 21, 2010 at 2:29 AM, David Bruckmann
bruckma...@transcontinental.ca wrote:
 The MB policy of actually supporting their classic community is brilliant, 
 and 
I am willing to put my money (within reason) on it. As I posted before, I'm 
becoming impatient with aftermarket parts of questionable provenance and will 
pay a premium for OE quality.

 A couple of times now I've gone to order something for my W115 and have been 
told by the dealer that the part is NLA and we even checked with the Classic 
Centre. Two parts that come to mind are the rear seat pads and the speaker 
grill assembly (the one that always shrivels up) on later W114/5 dashboards.

 Demand for some items like seat pads must be increasing after being close to 
nil for many years. When I did the interior in my W115 I got what World 
Uplholstery said was their last set of rear pads, one of which was a NOS 
genuine 
part, the other had served as their fitting model when they were testing the 
covers. A friend is getting set to do his W115, and World confirmed that the 
pads are NLA. Same story from GAHH and Mercedes directly.

 A while ago I happened upon a note from Tom Hansen at the Classic Centre that 
the trim pieces for the R107 were once again available after being NLA for a 
while.

 So my question: if the part is NLA, but Mercedes-Benz is restarting 
production on certain items according to demand, how does one ensure that this 
demand is actually registered with the company. Is there a way of getting onto 
a 
list or something so that these parts become available? Or do I just send a 
note 
to Tom?

 D.

 PS: to the joy of W116 owners, it appears that those formerly NLA rear seat 
pads are once again available in the aftermarket (and a bargain!). Not sure 
how 
they'll hold up over time, but better than crumbling vestiges of the 
original...

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Re: [MBZ] Did I hose my rear SLS valve?

2010-12-21 Thread Max Dillon
For your sake, I sure hope not!  However, you still have the original problem 
to 
sort out.  Perhaps the SLS valve was already dead?  I would think that if there 
was air entrapped, you could loosen the lines at the top of the struts to bleed 
out the air - that is what I do on my 124 wagon SLS.

-Max





From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tue, December 21, 2010 1:06:21 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Did I hose my rear SLS valve?

I had to release pressure in the four-wheel SLS system (aka 6.9-style
Hydramat) of my Euro 500SEL thanks to a leak at the banjo fitting on
the high-pressure side of the hydraulic pump.  For some reason the
copper washers suddenly decided to not seal well.  I used Philip M.'s
trick with a propane torch and cold water (thanks, Philip!) to
re-anneal them nice and soft.  Put things back together, added some
fluid, and there's no leak now that I can tell.

However, although the suspension idiot light on the dash is out
(indicating, I believe, that the overall pressure in the system is
within specs), the back end of the car now won't rise up from
kneeling-camel position.  I had already disconnected the level control
valve in the rear from the sway bar, so I was able to reach in from
the side with a broom handle and move the arm on the valve slowly up
and down for about a minute, which I thought was the proper way to
quickly bleed the system.  The back end is still all the way down,
though.  Is there still air in the system, maybe?

A greater concern, though, is that, looking at the FSM, I was
horrified to see that you're only supposed to move the arm on the
level control valve no more than 45 degrees from the central
position---too far, and it may result in damage to valve balls and
therefore in internal leaking of level controller.  I was definitely
moving the darn thing past that point.  Did I break something?  Why
didn't they just design the valve so that the arm's range of motion is
limited to the safe area?  The last one of those valves I saw on eBay
went for $850, and while there's a place now that rebuilds SLS and
Hydramat parts---www.activesuspensionsystems.com---I haven't even
dared to ask them what a valve rebuild would cost.  Ack!

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Increasingly OT: Re: American Top Gear

2010-12-22 Thread Max Dillon
The Goon Show!  I'd forgotten all about that.  Of course, I'm too young to have 
heard the original broadcasts, but it was re-broadcast well into the '80s.

http://www.thegoonshow.net/downloads.asp

Have to share this with my brother.

-Max





From: Fred Moir fred.s...@verizon.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tue, December 21, 2010 5:05:15 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Increasingly OT: Re: American Top Gear

Alles.
Ah! You young whippersnappers!
The best was The Goon Show on the radio!
Spike Milligan, Peter Sellers, Harry Secombe and Michael Bentine. Those 
were the days!
You really had to exercise your imagination.

Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred


On 12/21/2010 4:51 PM, E M wrote:
 Coronation Street gets my vote.  It's pretty much a religion over there!

 Ed
 300E

 On 21 December 2010 16:18, Curt Raymondcurtlud...@yahoo.com  wrote:


 I think for my generation Dr. Who is the definition of British TV...
  
 but I knew about British TV, I grew up on Dr. Who...



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