Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Upgrade electronic ignition for 1983 Nighthawk CB650SC

2021-04-12 Thread Jenya Spektor
I did not know that. Apologies...
Is there a more modern electronic ignition that I can use? If you know of any. 
Thank you 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 11, 2021, at 6:17 PM, Graham Rogers  wrote:
> 
> 
> The 1983 Nighthawk CB650SC has electronic ignition. It has no points or 
> condenser.
> 
>> On Sun, Apr 11, 2021 at 5:23 PM skasp...@gmail.com  
>> wrote:
>> Hello friends, 
>> I have a question and I hope someone has had some experience with this. I am 
>> looking to upgrade my bike with an electronic ignition kit (similar to 
>> Dynatek S Ignition instead of points. I can't find anything that is 
>> compatible with my year/model.
>> Please let me know. Best, Jenya
>> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starter issue (yet again) - brushes are ground to powder.

2020-09-14 Thread Jenya Spektor
Thank you! I do know that the armature needs to be turned - the end that
comes in contact with brushes is concave in the center.
Appreciate your replies!
J

On Sat, Sep 12, 2020 at 8:51 AM slep...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Hi Jenya,
> The commutator, the part the brushes contact, needs to be turned to extend
> the brush life.  Also, excessive clearance between shaft and bushing will
> contribute to shortening the brush life.  Take it to a reputable local
> electric motor shop and have the armature turned and replace the bushing on
> the same end along with replacing the brushes.  This in addition to making
> sure the engine is in good tune will enable the starter to live for many
> years.
>
> On Monday, August 17, 2020 at 11:56:14 AM UTC-4 skasp...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hello friends,
>> I had replaced my brush assembly (by Caltric brand) about a year ago. The
>> starter was running fine until it did not. The same issue as before - all
>> brushes were ground to dust.
>> I presume it's the armature that had caused all the havoc. Attached are
>> the pictures of state it's in.
>> The follow up question is - do I need a new starter and where do I get
>> one. They have them a plenty for other models, but it seems for the 1983
>> Honda Nh CB650sc not so much.
>> Please let me know what would my options be. I planning to rebuild the
>> brush assembly yet again...
>> Best, Jenya
>>
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>


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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork seals leaking

2020-09-09 Thread Jenya Spektor
Thank you all! I’ll try the tool first and see how it works. If the problem 
persists I’ll move on the replacing the seals. Best, Jenya

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 8, 2020, at 6:45 PM, Francisco Gomez  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello Kenya how are you, this is Francisco Gomez from Venezuela, to solve 
> your problem of leakage in a front forks, will be necessary to change the oil 
> seal and dust protector, there are many models and marks that works very well
> There are other method to solve this leakage, which is with a very thiny and 
> strong plastic to clean the surface between tube fork and seal, but is not so 
> much efective.
> Were we hope that this sugestión will be helpful for you
> Beste regards
> 
> El mar., 8 de septiembre de 2020 13:07, skasp...@gmail.com 
>  escribió:
>> Oh sorry - it's for the 1983 NH CB650 SC.
>> 
>>> On Tuesday, September 8, 2020 at 9:15:23 AM UTC-4 skasp...@gmail.com wrote:
>>> Hey Friends,
>>> So finally my forks seals (dust seals?) are leaking. 
>>> See the images. Does any one has any suggestions on troubleshooting and 
>>> figuring out what the problem is (1) and how to fix it (2).
>>> Appreciate all the help I can get.
>>> Jenya
>> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Starter issue (yet again) - brushes are ground to powder.

2020-08-21 Thread Jenya Spektor
Drew, thank you very much. I did clean the carbs - even thought they looked 
clean, I did blow everything out with break cleaner and reassembled them. Looks 
good. Still waiting for the brush kit to come in. Once everything is back 
together, will let you know the result. Best and good night! Jenya

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 18, 2020, at 10:24 AM, Drew Gormley  wrote:
> 
> 
> Okay, 
> 
> Thank you for your excellent responses and clear answers underlined. Well 
> done.
> 
> 1: Are you holding the start button for more than 5 seconds max? (You should 
> not be.) Y/N Not really, but sometimes longer then 2 seconds, or I have to 
> press it multiple times.
> 
> Please warm the bike up with the choke on full for a minute, then restart the 
> bike as normal.
> 
> 
> 2. Does the bike have trouble starting (Hence over use of the start button) 
> Y/N Sometimes - usually after stnading for more then 2 days at a time.
> Get an AGM battery and a trickle charger. The nighthawk is a poor electrical 
> design and only CHARGES your battery above 2500 rpms. IT takes 30 minutes of 
> riding to recharge a low battery. This means your battery is shot and isn't 
> absorbing a charge when it rides, probably due to a dead cell. Batteries for 
> this bike only cost between 40 and 80 USD, so I got an AGM at Walmart and it 
> just fits into the compartment. I don't use the swingarm to bolt it in place, 
> because it won't move. It's snug there. Battery has gotten low once or twice 
> but I just top it off on the trickle charger. I ride mine once a day for ten 
> minutes minimum to prevent fuel clogging the idle jets.
> 
> 3. Are you sure the timing and valves are all operating correctly? Y/N Not 
> sure - never worked on or checked either.
> 
> It isn't the scariest procedure to do, but eventually to be sure it isn't an 
> issue you should learn to open the top end cover, and learn the procedure to 
> bleed the hydraulic valves. It's not difficult. VIDEO below
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxRJeqr_5xY   
> 
> 
> 4. Are you sure the springs on the brushes are not adjusted too tight? Y/N 
> The set I had ordered doe not seem to have any adjusters on the springs. 
> (https://www.amazon.com/Caltric-Starter-HONDA-CB650SC-Nighthawk/dp/B008AWDYRG/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1=caltric+starter+kit+honda+cb650sc=1597709238=8-1)
>  
> 
> We can assume then that you're using the button for too long. Five second is 
> the maximum.
> 
> 5. Is your carb completely clean and particle free? Y/N I had cleaned them 
> last autumn and synced them up in May (to the best of my abilities, which are 
> not all that...)  
> 
>  A NIGHTHAWK is an old quad aspirated carburetor system. They require being 
> cleaned probably twice a year if they aren't ridden daily. To remove them, 
> pull back the airbox by unbolting the FENDER OVER THE REAR TIRE made of black 
> plastic, and airbox from frame. Loosen the metal belts around the carb boots, 
> intake and exhaust both. Now that it's all loosened, pour boiling water from 
> a thermos over the rubber boots, front and back. This makes them soften for 
> about 60 seconds, long enough to pull them off the back of the carbs, facing 
> the rear tire. Repeat the boiling water onto the front boots next, and pull 
> backwards on the carbs to free them. Rotate the carbs sideways, out and flip 
> them over, on the left side of the bike (clutch lever side)
> The cables can be loosened, the carb can be put on a bench, and you can one 
> by one take off the bowls, unscrew the jets, and unclog them with spray 
> cleaner. The idle jet is the one that clogs, every single time, due to 
> additives like ethanol in modern fuel. Once you clean the idle jets, you want 
> to spray out all the inner passages on the carbs, and then reassemble the 
> carb. You probably don't need to do anything to the float needles. If you did 
> the bike would flood and not start. 
> 
> Each of these steps is a step we learn as we trouble shoot our own bikes. 
> You should now learn to 
> 1. Diagnose your running bike for volts produced at idle and above 3000 rmps. 
> You'll need a cheap voltmeter to do this.
> 2. You might want to get some starter fluid to spray into the intake under 
> the seat if your bike starts poorly to save your starter brushes on cold days.
> 3. You'll need to learn carb cleaning as it's much cheaper and easier and 
> enjoyable to this yourself. 
> 4. Consider this: The nighthawk was engineered to be a daily driver bike. So 
> the battery is not well charged by the bike system alone. A well built 
> trickle charger can be put on the battery to top it off over nights in 
> winter. 
> 
> I have always said that OWNING VINTAGE IS FIXING VINTAGE
> 
> GOOD LUCK!
> 
> 
> On 

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Screen Cowl-My 85 cb700sc

2020-08-18 Thread Jenya Spektor
Can you send a link? Thanks

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:29 PM, gary glick  wrote:
> 
> 
> Thanks.  Ordered a new one (repro). NASU on Amazon. $55
> 
>> On Tue, Aug 18, 2020 at 12:18 PM geo-hawk allan  
>> wrote:
>> Yes as kyle stated...eBayI just did a quick look on there as I was 
>> already logged in, found a few BEAT UP ones, cracked & basically 
>> junk.all close to or over $100! Few weeks back or so ago I saw a r/w/b 
>> for an 86 that looked decent, it's Gone as of looking today
>> If you have an eBay account you can do a few searches under various searches 
>> & Save them by clicking the Heart (Save search) eBay will then email you 
>> whenever new listings come up on eBay for whatever it is one is looking 
>> for.good luck
>> -george
>> 
>>> On Monday, August 17, 2020 at 5:11:31 PM UTC-4, gary glick wrote:
>>> Headlight fairing has a crack. Found the proper red decals. Close exam 
>>> revealed that the screen cowl has a small crack at the bottom.  Searched 
>>> the internet to no avail. Does anyone have a possible source for this 
>>> piece? It is number 14 on the blow up parts diagrams, 64200-MJ1-670. Thanks
>> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Starter issue (yet again) - brushes are ground to powder.

2020-08-17 Thread Jenya Spektor
>
> *Mine (Undelined/Bold)*
>
>
> Lets' eliminate a few basics.
>
> 1: Are you holding the start button for more than 5 seconds max? (You
> should not be.) Y/N *Not really, but sometimes longer then 2 seconds, or
> I have to press it multiple times.*
> 2. Does the bike have trouble starting (Hence over use of the start
> button) Y/N *Sometimes - usually after stnading for more then 2 days at a
> time.*
> 3. Are you sure the timing and valves are all operating correctly? Y/N *Not
> sure - never worked on or checked either.*
> 4. Are you sure the springs on the brushes are not adjusted too tight? Y/N 
> *The
> set I had ordered doe not seem to have any adjusters on the springs. (*
> https://www.amazon.com/Caltric-Starter-HONDA-CB650SC-Nighthawk/dp/B008AWDYRG/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1=caltric+starter+kit+honda+cb650sc=1597709238=8-1
> )
> 5. Is your carb completely clean and particle free? Y/N* I had cleaned
> them last autumn and synced them up in May (to the best of my abilities,
> which are not all that...)*
>
> You have some homework to do.I suspect you're holding the start too long
> because the carbs are out of tune.
>
> On Mon, Aug 17, 2020 at 12:42 PM Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
>> Ouch!
>>
>> On Mon, Aug 17, 2020 at 11:56 AM skasp...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello friends,
>>> I had replaced my brush assembly (by Caltric brand) about a year ago.
>>> The starter was running fine until it did not. The same issue as before -
>>> all brushes were ground to dust.
>>> I presume it's the armature that had caused all the havoc. Attached are
>>> the pictures of state it's in.
>>> The follow up question is - do I need a new starter and where do I get
>>> one. They have them a plenty for other models, but it seems for the 1983
>>> Honda Nh CB650sc not so much.
>>> Please let me know what would my options be. I planning to rebuild the
>>> brush assembly yet again...
>>> Best, Jenya
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>>
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>>> .
>>>
>>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Starter issue (yet again) - brushes are ground to powder.

2020-08-17 Thread Jenya Spektor
Thank you all for your input. I will read through these and will go through the 
checklist as well to see if any of the symptoms are there. For one, I can tell 
you right away that I did sync the carbs but not sure if I did a food job with 
that. And yes, sometimes I hold the start button for little longer then 1-2 
seconds. My question remains thought - could an old armature (worn out on the 
top side) be the culprit?
Will give a more detailed response to the checklist later today.
J

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 17, 2020, at 1:08 PM, Drew Gormley  wrote:
> 
> 
> Your brushes are being destroyed. 
> 
> Lets' eliminate a few basics. 
> 
> 1: Are you holding the start button for more than 5 seconds max? (You should 
> not be.) Y/N
> 2. Does the bike have trouble starting (Hence over use of the start button) 
> Y/N
> 3. Are you sure the timing and valves are all operating correctly? Y/N
> 4. Are you sure the springs on the brushes are not adjusted too tight? Y/N
> 5. Is your carb completely clean and particle free? Y/N
> 
> You have some homework to do.I suspect you're holding the start too long 
> because the carbs are out of tune.
> 
>> On Mon, Aug 17, 2020 at 12:42 PM Graham Rogers  
>> wrote:
>> Ouch!
>> 
>>> On Mon, Aug 17, 2020 at 11:56 AM skasp...@gmail.com  
>>> wrote:
>>> Hello friends,
>>> I had replaced my brush assembly (by Caltric brand) about a year ago. The 
>>> starter was running fine until it did not. The same issue as before - all 
>>> brushes were ground to dust.
>>> I presume it's the armature that had caused all the havoc. Attached are the 
>>> pictures of state it's in. 
>>> The follow up question is - do I need a new starter and where do I get one. 
>>> They have them a plenty for other models, but it seems for the 1983 Honda 
>>> Nh CB650sc not so much.
>>> Please let me know what would my options be. I planning to rebuild the 
>>> brush assembly yet again...
>>> Best, Jenya
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> 
>>> 
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>>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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>>> 
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>>> 
>>> 
>> 
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[Nighthawk Lovers] how to replace front brakes on 1983 honda nighthawk cb650Sc

2020-07-18 Thread Jenya Spektor
Hey guys. I am about the swap my front break pads. Is there an illustrated 
guide or a video that will help me get through the process? Thank you! Jenya

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Power issue - 1983 NH CB650SC

2020-02-03 Thread Jenya Spektor
Thanks for putting my mind at ease - will continue with a gentle touch for
the first 10 min.
Thanks and be safe!
Jenya

On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 12:38 PM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

>
> Sounds within range of normal in winter weather. How about with choke
> still on a little? Does that make a difference. Even after warm up, I have
> to keep the choke on , on my 700S, for 2-3 miles and it’s still not running
> normal till about 5 miles
>
> On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 12:33 PM Jenya Spektor 
> wrote:
>
>> Graham, good to hear from you!
>> After 5 min of warm up, when in 1st, it doesn't even go to 4K rpms, the
>> bike dies if I go too fast and hard on the throttle.
>> But after 5-10min of slow and gentle riding, i can go twist the throttle
>> fast and hard and I have an almost immediate response.
>> LMK
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 11:15 AM Graham Rogers 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> What are the rpms in those two gears? That would tell us more what is
>>> normal and what is not. You have very little power in any gear under 3k
>>> rpms, probably not till you get around 4-4.5 rpms.
>>>
>>> On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 9:36 AM Jenya Spektor 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hello friends,
>>>> My bike is finally all done! Carbs cleaned. Nothing leaks. All gages
>>>> work.Starts from the first try, idles at 1100, sounds and smells good.
>>>>
>>>> One issue (or maybe not, depending on YOUR input) - after a good 5
>>>> minute warm up, there is very little power in 1st and 2nd gear for the
>>>> first 5 minutes of me RIDING it. After 5-7 min thought, it almost feels
>>>> that the bike wakes up and start reacting to the throttle.
>>>>
>>>> Anything I am missing here, is this common for an older bike like this?
>>>> Can my custom additions have played any role in this?
>>>> I did put on a 4-in-1 mac exhaust and the pod air filters, re-jetted
>>>> the carbs to work with both (muffler/pods).
>>>> Let me know,
>>>> Jenya
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>>> an email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/cb057307-25cd-40b3-afd7-b9196a3c82ac%40googlegroups.com
>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/cb057307-25cd-40b3-afd7-b9196a3c82ac%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>>> .
>>>>
>>> --
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>>
>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> Jenya Spektor
>> 917.202.3080
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Power issue - 1983 NH CB650SC

2020-02-03 Thread Jenya Spektor
Graham, good to hear from you!
After 5 min of warm up, when in 1st, it doesn't even go to 4K rpms, the
bike dies if I go too fast and hard on the throttle.
But after 5-10min of slow and gentle riding, i can go twist the throttle
fast and hard and I have an almost immediate response.
LMK


On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 11:15 AM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> What are the rpms in those two gears? That would tell us more what is
> normal and what is not. You have very little power in any gear under 3k
> rpms, probably not till you get around 4-4.5 rpms.
>
> On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 9:36 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>
>> Hello friends,
>> My bike is finally all done! Carbs cleaned. Nothing leaks. All gages
>> work.Starts from the first try, idles at 1100, sounds and smells good.
>>
>> One issue (or maybe not, depending on YOUR input) - after a good 5 minute
>> warm up, there is very little power in 1st and 2nd gear for the first 5
>> minutes of me RIDING it. After 5-7 min thought, it almost feels that the
>> bike wakes up and start reacting to the throttle.
>>
>> Anything I am missing here, is this common for an older bike like this?
>> Can my custom additions have played any role in this?
>> I did put on a 4-in-1 mac exhaust and the pod air filters, re-jetted the
>> carbs to work with both (muffler/pods).
>> Let me know,
>> Jenya
>>
>> --
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> .
>


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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Charging/Electrical Issue

2019-12-10 Thread Jenya Spektor
Will look into those  - thanks for the info!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 10, 2019, at 5:25 PM, Darin Hatton  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Jenya 
>  Good to hear your charging system is working.  That is a good test to do to 
> see what is going into battery. If its putting too much charge into battery 
> it can be cooked. 
>As far as auto store testing batteries,  they will put a load on it and 
> see how voltage drops. I have used AGM batteries in my bikes and have had 
> good results. They are a gel battery instead of liquid acid type. No vent 
> hose, no spills, sealed and much more cold cranking amps. Got mine at 
> batteries + bulbs . About 100 bucks each here in ohio
> 
>> On Sat, Dec 7, 2019, 7:49 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>> Thanks guys - I did start a bike and when reviving the voltmeter shows 14 v 
>> or more. So I presume the charging system is working - it’s the battery that 
>> loses voltage during longer stop and go rides in the city. I’ll try to stop 
>> by the AAP to check it out. Is there anything specific I should be asking 
>> them for? And how do they test the batteries in the store? Thanks all!
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Dec 1, 2019, at 5:38 PM, Darin Hatton  wrote:
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> Hi Jenya,  
>>>   The easiest way for me to see what the charging system is doing is to set 
>>> multi meter to D C volts, put lead on battery with bike running. Should 
>>> show 12 + volts at idle and about 14.5 volts at about 5k rpms.  
>>> Darin
>>> 
>>>> On Sun, Dec 1, 2019, 1:13 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>>>> I have followed the steps in the manual - my regulator reads 1 when I 
>>>> touch the yellow wires on the regulator side. I presume it needs to be 0, 
>>>> correct?
>>>> The stator side test shows 0.4.
>>>> Let me know what i should test next - unless this is a telltale of some 
>>>> trouble.
>>>> Jenya
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Fri, Nov 29, 2019 at 7:00 PM Dave duChêne  wrote:
>>>>> Check the battery too, an internal issue can cause rapid discharge. 
>>>>> Cheaper to replace also.
>>>>> Dave
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Fri, 29 Nov 2019 at 19:56, Darin Hatton  
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> Hi jenya, dont forget to check stator. Easily done with meter.  D
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Fri, Nov 29, 2019, 1:25 PM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>>>>>> There are steps in the shop manual for testing the R/R, it should be 
>>>>>>> tested before just being replaced. If it does test bad I think we all 
>>>>>>> pretty much agree that Rick's has the best replacement parts.
>>>>>>> https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> -Kyle
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Fri, Nov 29, 2019 at 11:55 AM Jenya Spektor  
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>> Hey fellow owners!
>>>>>>>> I have a question (just to validate my assumption). Recently I went on 
>>>>>>>> a few rides that lasted for an hour or so (and I had to stop and turn 
>>>>>>>> the bike on and off for quite a few times). Well the battery that was 
>>>>>>>> fully charged when leaving the house would drop down to 11V and the 
>>>>>>>> bike would not start. 
>>>>>>>> The bike starts right up no problem.
>>>>>>>> By the way it's acting, it might be the regulator/rectifier not 
>>>>>>>> charging the battery. 
>>>>>>>> I would like to ask if you guys have any recommendations on a 
>>>>>>>> replacement part that is a more modern (maybe two in one)?
>>>>>>>> Thank you in advance.
>>>>>>>> Jenya
>>>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>>>>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>>>>>>> an email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/7c40ee70-c34f-4681-a8ad-48f8670b9f

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Charging/Electrical Issue

2019-12-07 Thread Jenya Spektor
Thanks guys - I did start a bike and when reviving the voltmeter shows 14 v or 
more. So I presume the charging system is working - it’s the battery that loses 
voltage during longer stop and go rides in the city. I’ll try to stop by the 
AAP to check it out. Is there anything specific I should be asking them for? 
And how do they test the batteries in the store? Thanks all!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 1, 2019, at 5:38 PM, Darin Hatton  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Jenya,  
>   The easiest way for me to see what the charging system is doing is to set 
> multi meter to D C volts, put lead on battery with bike running. Should show 
> 12 + volts at idle and about 14.5 volts at about 5k rpms.  
> Darin
> 
>> On Sun, Dec 1, 2019, 1:13 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>> I have followed the steps in the manual - my regulator reads 1 when I touch 
>> the yellow wires on the regulator side. I presume it needs to be 0, correct?
>> The stator side test shows 0.4.
>> Let me know what i should test next - unless this is a telltale of some 
>> trouble.
>> Jenya
>> 
>> 
>>> On Fri, Nov 29, 2019 at 7:00 PM Dave duChêne  wrote:
>>> Check the battery too, an internal issue can cause rapid discharge. Cheaper 
>>> to replace also.
>>> Dave
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Fri, 29 Nov 2019 at 19:56, Darin Hatton  wrote:
>>>> Hi jenya, dont forget to check stator. Easily done with meter.  D
>>>> 
>>>>> On Fri, Nov 29, 2019, 1:25 PM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>>>> There are steps in the shop manual for testing the R/R, it should be 
>>>>> tested before just being replaced. If it does test bad I think we all 
>>>>> pretty much agree that Rick's has the best replacement parts.
>>>>> https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/
>>>>> 
>>>>> -Kyle
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Fri, Nov 29, 2019 at 11:55 AM Jenya Spektor  
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> Hey fellow owners!
>>>>>> I have a question (just to validate my assumption). Recently I went on a 
>>>>>> few rides that lasted for an hour or so (and I had to stop and turn the 
>>>>>> bike on and off for quite a few times). Well the battery that was fully 
>>>>>> charged when leaving the house would drop down to 11V and the bike would 
>>>>>> not start. 
>>>>>> The bike starts right up no problem.
>>>>>> By the way it's acting, it might be the regulator/rectifier not charging 
>>>>>> the battery. 
>>>>>> I would like to ask if you guys have any recommendations on a 
>>>>>> replacement part that is a more modern (maybe two in one)?
>>>>>> Thank you in advance.
>>>>>> Jenya
>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>>>>> an email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/7c40ee70-c34f-4681-a8ad-48f8670b9f15%40googlegroups.com.
>>>>> 
>>>>> -- 
>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
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>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>>>>> email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
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>>>> 
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>>> 
>>> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Charging Issues?

2019-12-01 Thread Jenya Spektor
When cranking it shows 8.6 V. So it’s definitely a tired battery (a 1.5 yo).

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 29, 2019, at 8:41 PM, 'Bernard Frank' via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Battery Load Test
> 
> -Bernie
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Dave duChêne 
> To: nighthawk_lovers 
> Sent: Fri, Nov 29, 2019 7:00 pm
> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Charging/Electrical Issue
> 
> Check the battery too, an internal issue can cause rapid discharge. Cheaper 
> to replace also.
> Dave
> 
> 
> On Fri, 29 Nov 2019 at 19:56, Darin Hatton  wrote:
> Hi jenya, dont forget to check stator. Easily done with meter.  D
> 
> On Fri, Nov 29, 2019, 1:25 PM Kyle Munz  wrote:
> There are steps in the shop manual for testing the R/R, it should be tested 
> before just being replaced. If it does test bad I think we all pretty much 
> agree that Rick's has the best replacement parts.
> https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/
> 
> -Kyle
> 
> 
> On Fri, Nov 29, 2019 at 11:55 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
> Hey fellow owners!
> I have a question (just to validate my assumption). Recently I went on a few 
> rides that lasted for an hour or so (and I had to stop and turn the bike on 
> and off for quite a few times). Well the battery that was fully charged when 
> leaving the house would drop down to 11V and the bike would not start. 
> The bike starts right up no problem.
> By the way it's acting, it might be the regulator/rectifier not charging the 
> battery. 
> I would like to ask if you guys have any recommendations on a replacement 
> part that is a more modern (maybe two in one)?
> Thank you in advance.
> Jenya
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
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> 
> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Charging/Electrical Issue

2019-12-01 Thread Jenya Spektor
I have followed the steps in the manual - my regulator reads 1 when I touch
the yellow wires on the regulator side. I presume it needs to be 0, correct?
The stator side test shows 0.4.
Let me know what i should test next - unless this is a telltale of some
trouble.
Jenya


On Fri, Nov 29, 2019 at 7:00 PM Dave duChêne  wrote:

> Check the battery too, an internal issue can cause rapid discharge.
> Cheaper to replace also.
> Dave
>
>
> On Fri, 29 Nov 2019 at 19:56, Darin Hatton  wrote:
>
>> Hi jenya, dont forget to check stator. Easily done with meter.  D
>>
>> On Fri, Nov 29, 2019, 1:25 PM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>
>>> There are steps in the shop manual for testing the R/R, it should be
>>> tested before just being replaced. If it does test bad I think we all
>>> pretty much agree that Rick's has the best replacement parts.
>>> https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/
>>>
>>> -Kyle
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Nov 29, 2019 at 11:55 AM Jenya Spektor 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hey fellow owners!
>>>> I have a question (just to validate my assumption). Recently I went on
>>>> a few rides that lasted for an hour or so (and I had to stop and turn the
>>>> bike on and off for quite a few times). Well the battery that was fully
>>>> charged when leaving the house would drop down to 11V and the bike would
>>>> not start.
>>>> The bike starts right up no problem.
>>>> By the way it's acting, it might be the regulator/rectifier not
>>>> charging the battery.
>>>> I would like to ask if you guys have any recommendations on a
>>>> replacement part that is a more modern (maybe two in one)?
>>>> Thank you in advance.
>>>> Jenya
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>>> an email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/7c40ee70-c34f-4681-a8ad-48f8670b9f15%40googlegroups.com
>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/7c40ee70-c34f-4681-a8ad-48f8670b9f15%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>>> .
>>>>
>>> --
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>>>
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>>
>
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Fuse block

2019-12-01 Thread Jenya Spektor
There are some pics on Kyle's blog that had helped me with troubleshooting
the issues with my fuse block.
http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=166
<http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Fnighthawk.kylemunz.com%2F%3Fp%3D166=D=1=AFQjCNGPiAFu--4PjkRSWZc5-vtuDmD92g>
The fuseblock itself is easy to open and see what is the status of all the
plastic and metal parts.
Best, J

On Sun, Dec 1, 2019 at 9:15 AM 'nick.tamps...@btinternet.com' via Nighthawk
Motorcycle Lovers!  wrote:

> 1996 N/H.
> The flasher switch on the handle bars wasn’t working. I decided to take
> both left and right hand switches off and clean them. After replacing them,
> the flasher switch was working but the starter switch was dead. Also,
> turning on the ignition switch there was no red light, no indicator light
> and no main beam light. The light switch is working ok but no starter.
> I’ve checked continuity and that’s fine but on checking power feed it
> appears to be a problem with the 30 amp fuse block.
> There’s power from the battery to the fuse block, but nothing coming out.
> The fuse is ok, even tried another fuse.
> Why would cleaning the switches cause these problems. Could I have caused
> a short and blown the fuse block.
> Can the fuse block be dismantled for inspection.
> Any help much appreciated.
>
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>


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[Nighthawk Lovers] Charging/Electrical Issue

2019-11-29 Thread Jenya Spektor
Hey fellow owners!
I have a question (just to validate my assumption). Recently I went on a 
few rides that lasted for an hour or so (and I had to stop and turn the 
bike on and off for quite a few times). Well the battery that was fully 
charged when leaving the house would drop down to 11V and the bike would 
not start. 
The bike starts right up no problem.
By the way it's acting, it might be the regulator/rectifier not charging 
the battery. 
I would like to ask if you guys have any recommendations on a replacement 
part that is a more modern (maybe two in one)?
Thank you in advance.
Jenya

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1983 NH CB 650 - need to change tires

2019-09-30 Thread Jenya Spektor
Bernie , Kyle - thank you as always. My question - is it common for the magnets 
to disintegrate like this? Mine has only wires left - no magnets at all. I will 
read through your post and I am sure will ask more questions. Best, J

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 30, 2019, at 6:22 PM, Kyle Munz  wrote:
> 
> I took photos when I rebuilt mine, it's not hard
> http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=517
> 
> -Kyle
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Sep 30, 2019 at 4:33 PM 'Bernard Frank' via Nighthawk Motorcycle 
>> Lovers!  wrote:
>> Have no fear, there's a kit to rebuild the starter.  Isn't too difficult
>> 
>> https://www.amazon.com/Caltric-Starter-HONDA-CB650SC-Nighthawk/dp/B008AWDYRG/ref=pd_sbs_263_1/144-5176536-4371911?_encoding=UTF8_rd_i=B008AWDYRG_rd_r=2ba5d229-84b6-432a-9953-d051bf1e47e2_rd_w=94gfp_rd_wg=3tZzF_rd_p=d66372fe-68a6-48a3-90ec-41d7f64212be_rd_r=JDCEBR4CPCHHCRGKDR9P=1=JDCEBR4CPCHHCRGKDR9P
>> 
>> Bernie
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Jenya Spektor 
>> To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! 
>> Sent: Mon, Sep 30, 2019 4:35 pm
>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1983 NH CB 650 - need to change tires
>> 
>> Hey all - so the saga continues. After successfully changing the tires (and 
>> balancing them) I went ahead and rode the bike ONE time.
>> Then it would not start - the starter solenoid is clicking, the battery is 
>> fully charged but nothing happens. Upon taking off the cover of the starter, 
>> here is what I found inside of the front cover (see images attached).
>> So I presume the starter had finally gave up on me. 
>> Would anyone suggest  if in fact my started is 'caputnik' and where to buy a 
>> decent quality starter for 1983 NH CB650SC.
>> Thanks you in advance. Jenya
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Tue, Sep 24, 2019 at 7:50 PM Tommy Hill  wrote:
>> Cut it...
>> 
>> -- 
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>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Jenya Spektor
>> 917.202.3080
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> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1983 NH CB 650 - need to change tires

2019-09-24 Thread Jenya Spektor
So I got the tires and took the rear wheel off first - it took me 20 min to
break the bead on one side and now I am struggling to break it on the
reverse side. It just wouldn't come off. The tire is super stiff and old.
Any tricks I should use? Thanks

On Fri, Sep 20, 2019 at 11:35 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:

> Agreed. No particular brand but I've got a bucket of generic wheel bearing
> grease from some autoparts store that I've been using for years.
>
> -Kyle
>
>
> On Fri, Sep 20, 2019 at 10:31 AM Tommy Hill  wrote:
>
>> Perfect advice above!
>>
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>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1983 NH CB 650 - need to change tires

2019-09-20 Thread Jenya Spektor
[image: 0.jpg]
So took the rear wheel off. Few questions here:
1. Should I repack the final drive with fresh grease? And which brand
should I use?
2. Should the rear and the front axle be greased and with what?
3. Please look at the picture attached and let me know if I need to change
the break pads - i have about 5mm of pad material left. Looks kinda new...
Much appreciated as always,
jenya

On Tue, Sep 17, 2019 at 2:46 PM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> Jenya, here’s the company I bought mine from
> https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11401.m1842.l44715/7?euid=7135d8f746634ea3be56e7a8e3b7dc6a=43699536482=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fusr%2Ffullcirclepowersportsco=bu=bu
> $158. Delivered.
> Just took the bike out for its first time on the road in 24 years, Graham
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Sep 17, 2019, at 2:30 PM, Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>
> Graham, Where did you purchase it from? Same guys as in my link or
> elsewhere? The 4into1 charges 65 for UPS ground for these (bringing the
> final price w/tax to about $230) or so. Thanks
>
> On Tue, Sep 17, 2019 at 1:46 PM Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
>> Your first option is what I just put on a CB650SC this morning. Took me
>> about an hour or so to take the old tires off and mount the new ones and
>> that’s with sticking  the new valve in the wrong way and 5 minutes
>> contemplating which way the tires go on. Even with the arrow on the tire
>> telling me I have still put it on backwards before.
>> Another 25 minutes to put the wheels back on the bike.
>>
>> On Tue, Sep 17, 2019 at 1:30 PM Jenya Spektor 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Here are my budget picks -
>>>
>>> https://4into1.com/shinko-712-tire-set-honda-cx500c-d-gl500-cb550sc-cb650c-sc-gl650/
>>>
>>> https://4into1.com/kenda-k657-challenger-tire-set-honda-cx500c-d-gl500-cb550sc-cb650c-sc-gl650/
>>> Not so budget friendly:
>>>
>>> https://4into1.com/irc-durotour-rs-310-tire-set-honda-cx500c-d-gl500-cb550sc-cb650c-sc-gl650/
>>>
>>> https://4into1.com/bridgestone-bt-45-tire-set-honda-cx500c-d-gl500-cb550sc-cb650c-sc-gl650/
>>>
>>> On Tue, Sep 17, 2019 at 10:38 AM Jenya Spektor 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> In Sheepsheadbay, Brooklyn, NY 11235
>>>> If anyone knows of any good shop around me - let me know.
>>>> Otherwise I'll be doing it myself.
>>>> And yes, I'll be getting a set of both the front/back just to be safe.
>>>> I was looking for an earlier thread on the tires and can't find one -
>>>> can someone point me to it? Thanks again,
>>>> Jenya
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Tue, Sep 17, 2019 at 8:43 AM Graham Rogers <
>>>> grahamjoanrog...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Where are you again Jenya?
>>>>>
>>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>>
>>>>> > On Sep 17, 2019, at 8:23 AM, Jenya Spektor 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>> >
>>>>> > They charge $55 just to mount and balance (and you have to dispose
>>>>> of your old tires yourself). That’s per tire.
>>>>> >
>>>>> > Sent from my iPhone
>>>>> >
>>>>> >>> On Sep 16, 2019, at 9:28 PM, Holger Selover-Stephan <
>>>>> hol...@shadowbrush.com> wrote:
>>>>> >>>
>>>>> >>> On Sep 16, 2019, at 6:26 PM, Jenya Spektor 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>> >>>
>>>>> >>> Thanks as always - now when it is ‘3818’ that means 38th week of
>>>>> 2018, correct? Thanks
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >> yup
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >> --
>>>>> >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>>>> >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it,
>>>>> send an email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>> >> To view this discussion on the web visit
>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/BB611B67-1A88-48D8-BF89-05AC73544B43%40shadowbrush.com
>>>>> .
>>>>> >
>>>>> > --
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>>>>> > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it,
>>>>> send an email to nighthawk

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1983 NH CB 650 - need to change tires

2019-09-17 Thread Jenya Spektor
Graham, Where did you purchase it from? Same guys as in my link or
elsewhere? The 4into1 charges 65 for UPS ground for these (bringing the
final price w/tax to about $230) or so. Thanks

On Tue, Sep 17, 2019 at 1:46 PM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> Your first option is what I just put on a CB650SC this morning. Took me
> about an hour or so to take the old tires off and mount the new ones and
> that’s with sticking  the new valve in the wrong way and 5 minutes
> contemplating which way the tires go on. Even with the arrow on the tire
> telling me I have still put it on backwards before.
> Another 25 minutes to put the wheels back on the bike.
>
> On Tue, Sep 17, 2019 at 1:30 PM Jenya Spektor 
> wrote:
>
>> Here are my budget picks -
>>
>> https://4into1.com/shinko-712-tire-set-honda-cx500c-d-gl500-cb550sc-cb650c-sc-gl650/
>>
>> https://4into1.com/kenda-k657-challenger-tire-set-honda-cx500c-d-gl500-cb550sc-cb650c-sc-gl650/
>> Not so budget friendly:
>>
>> https://4into1.com/irc-durotour-rs-310-tire-set-honda-cx500c-d-gl500-cb550sc-cb650c-sc-gl650/
>>
>> https://4into1.com/bridgestone-bt-45-tire-set-honda-cx500c-d-gl500-cb550sc-cb650c-sc-gl650/
>>
>> On Tue, Sep 17, 2019 at 10:38 AM Jenya Spektor 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> In Sheepsheadbay, Brooklyn, NY 11235
>>> If anyone knows of any good shop around me - let me know.
>>> Otherwise I'll be doing it myself.
>>> And yes, I'll be getting a set of both the front/back just to be safe.
>>> I was looking for an earlier thread on the tires and can't find one -
>>> can someone point me to it? Thanks again,
>>> Jenya
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Sep 17, 2019 at 8:43 AM Graham Rogers <
>>> grahamjoanrog...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Where are you again Jenya?
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>
>>>> > On Sep 17, 2019, at 8:23 AM, Jenya Spektor 
>>>> wrote:
>>>> >
>>>> > They charge $55 just to mount and balance (and you have to dispose of
>>>> your old tires yourself). That’s per tire.
>>>> >
>>>> > Sent from my iPhone
>>>> >
>>>> >>> On Sep 16, 2019, at 9:28 PM, Holger Selover-Stephan <
>>>> hol...@shadowbrush.com> wrote:
>>>> >>>
>>>> >>> On Sep 16, 2019, at 6:26 PM, Jenya Spektor 
>>>> wrote:
>>>> >>>
>>>> >>> Thanks as always - now when it is ‘3818’ that means 38th week of
>>>> 2018, correct? Thanks
>>>> >>
>>>> >> yup
>>>> >>
>>>> >> --
>>>> >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>>> >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it,
>>>> send an email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>>> >> To view this discussion on the web visit
>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/BB611B67-1A88-48D8-BF89-05AC73544B43%40shadowbrush.com
>>>> .
>>>> >
>>>> > --
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>>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>>> > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it,
>>>> send an email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>>> > To view this discussion on the web visit
>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/39D233A0-FD09-41EC-AFBE-AB29CC217103%40gmail.com
>>>> .
>>>>
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>>>> .
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Jenya Spektor
>>> 917.202.3080
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jenya Spektor
>> 917.202.3080
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1983 NH CB 650 - need to change tires

2019-09-17 Thread Jenya Spektor
Here are my budget picks -
https://4into1.com/shinko-712-tire-set-honda-cx500c-d-gl500-cb550sc-cb650c-sc-gl650/
https://4into1.com/kenda-k657-challenger-tire-set-honda-cx500c-d-gl500-cb550sc-cb650c-sc-gl650/
Not so budget friendly:
https://4into1.com/irc-durotour-rs-310-tire-set-honda-cx500c-d-gl500-cb550sc-cb650c-sc-gl650/
https://4into1.com/bridgestone-bt-45-tire-set-honda-cx500c-d-gl500-cb550sc-cb650c-sc-gl650/

On Tue, Sep 17, 2019 at 10:38 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:

> In Sheepsheadbay, Brooklyn, NY 11235
> If anyone knows of any good shop around me - let me know.
> Otherwise I'll be doing it myself.
> And yes, I'll be getting a set of both the front/back just to be safe.
> I was looking for an earlier thread on the tires and can't find one - can
> someone point me to it? Thanks again,
> Jenya
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 17, 2019 at 8:43 AM Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
>> Where are you again Jenya?
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> > On Sep 17, 2019, at 8:23 AM, Jenya Spektor 
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > They charge $55 just to mount and balance (and you have to dispose of
>> your old tires yourself). That’s per tire.
>> >
>> > Sent from my iPhone
>> >
>> >>> On Sep 16, 2019, at 9:28 PM, Holger Selover-Stephan <
>> hol...@shadowbrush.com> wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>> On Sep 16, 2019, at 6:26 PM, Jenya Spektor 
>> wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>> Thanks as always - now when it is ‘3818’ that means 38th week of
>> 2018, correct? Thanks
>> >>
>> >> yup
>> >>
>> >> --
>> >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>> >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>> an email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> >> To view this discussion on the web visit
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/BB611B67-1A88-48D8-BF89-05AC73544B43%40shadowbrush.com
>> .
>> >
>> > --
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>> an email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/39D233A0-FD09-41EC-AFBE-AB29CC217103%40gmail.com
>> .
>>
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>> .
>>
>
>
> --
> Jenya Spektor
> 917.202.3080
>


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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1983 NH CB 650 - need to change tires

2019-09-17 Thread Jenya Spektor
In Sheepsheadbay, Brooklyn, NY 11235
If anyone knows of any good shop around me - let me know.
Otherwise I'll be doing it myself.
And yes, I'll be getting a set of both the front/back just to be safe.
I was looking for an earlier thread on the tires and can't find one - can
someone point me to it? Thanks again,
Jenya


On Tue, Sep 17, 2019 at 8:43 AM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> Where are you again Jenya?
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Sep 17, 2019, at 8:23 AM, Jenya Spektor  wrote:
> >
> > They charge $55 just to mount and balance (and you have to dispose of
> your old tires yourself). That’s per tire.
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >>> On Sep 16, 2019, at 9:28 PM, Holger Selover-Stephan <
> hol...@shadowbrush.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> On Sep 16, 2019, at 6:26 PM, Jenya Spektor 
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Thanks as always - now when it is ‘3818’ that means 38th week of 2018,
> correct? Thanks
> >>
> >> yup
> >>
> >> --
> >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
> >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
> an email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> >> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/BB611B67-1A88-48D8-BF89-05AC73544B43%40shadowbrush.com
> .
> >
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
> > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
> an email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/39D233A0-FD09-41EC-AFBE-AB29CC217103%40gmail.com
> .
>
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> .
>


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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1983 NH CB 650 - need to change tires

2019-09-17 Thread Jenya Spektor
They charge $55 just to mount and balance (and you have to dispose of your old 
tires yourself). That’s per tire.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 16, 2019, at 9:28 PM, Holger Selover-Stephan  
> wrote:
> 
>> On Sep 16, 2019, at 6:26 PM, Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>> 
>> Thanks as always - now when it is ‘3818’ that means 38th week of 2018, 
>> correct? Thanks
> 
> yup
> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1983 NH CB 650 - need to change tires

2019-09-16 Thread Jenya Spektor
Thanks as always - now when it is ‘3818’ that means 38th week of 2018, correct? 
Thanks

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 16, 2019, at 5:50 PM, Darin Hatton  wrote:
> 
> About 3500 miles into the battlax tires  I put on this year with no 
> complaints.  What does concern me that I havent seen discussed here is the 
> date code on motorcycle tires. From what I've read tires should be replaced 5 
> years after date code . I'm posting a pic of the date code on my tire so you 
> all will know what to look for. The first 2 numbers are the week of year 
> made, the last numbers are the year. In my pic the tire was made in the 38th 
> week of 2018. Hope this helps
> 
>> On Mon, Sep 16, 2019, 5:12 PM Holger Selover-Stephan 
>>  wrote:
>> Uh, I think I misunderstood you. The *wheels* are easy to take off the bike. 
>> Takes just a few minutes. Follow the manual when mounting them again, there 
>> are a few gotchas.
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> <20190916_174426.jpg>

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[Nighthawk Lovers] 1983 NH CB 650 - need to change tires

2019-09-16 Thread Jenya Spektor
Hey Friends.
I am sure there are topics already in existence for the topic, but wanted 
to see what you can suggest.
I just discovered a few cracks in the side wall of my rear tire - time to 
get rid of it.
My local shop had some questions for in order to give me a more accurate 
price (going rate is at $55 p.t.) if I am to bring the wheels to them so 
they don't have to take them off there.
1. Are they tubeless tires?
2. Which tires would you recommend - budget pick but good quality that 
lasts...
3. Is it relatively easy to take them off the bike?

Thank you in advance.
Yours, Jenya

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] After a 40 min of driving the battery is almost dead.

2019-08-28 Thread Jenya Spektor
The battery and the alternator function as they should: the voltage goes up
to 14 v when revving.
Will see if the battery keeps malfunctioning.

On Thu, Aug 22, 2019 at 6:09 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:

> Thank you guys - will troubleshoot and look into the manual as well. J
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 22, 2019, at 2:54 PM, Darin Hatton  wrote:
>
> Glad to help. Although I misspoke. If you are going to check the 3 yellow
> output wires from alternator the coupler needs to be plugged in. The white
> and black wires in that plug excite the field coil, without those plugged
> in it wont charge
>
> On Thu, Aug 22, 2019, 1:59 PM Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
>> That better explains it, thanks Darin
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 22, 2019, 10:37 AM Darin Hatton 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> If you check what Graham posted and have no increase in DC voltage here
>>> is an easy check on your stator out of the factory service manual for my
>>> 700. You can also run the bike with the 3 yellow wires from stator
>>> unplugged and check for voltage. Meter must be set to ac, as it is an ac
>>> generator.  All 3 wires should have approximately the same output
>>>
>>> On Thu, Aug 22, 2019, 10:07 AM Graham Rogers 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> With a volt meter Jenya. Check voltage of battery while bike is not
>>>> running. Should be over 12 volts. Then start the bike and check voltage
>>>> again while slowly increasing the rpms. It should read over 13.5 volts over
>>>> 3000 rpms.
>>>> If the volts remain the same (12 volt range or decrease) then the
>>>> problem is your charging system, (wiring, alternator and/or regulator).
>>>> Others can tell you how to test them, Graham
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Aug 22, 2019 at 9:50 AM Jenya Spektor 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hello friends,
>>>>> I have noticed recently that my battery is loosing juice after a long
>>>>> drives. Where do I start with troubleshooting the cause?
>>>>> I have a 1983 CB650 NH. The light is always on. Nothing else should be
>>>>> draining the battery? Unless... Can you help to troubleshoot.
>>>>> (The battery is 6month old and has been trickle charged when not
>>>>> riding).
>>>>> Sincerely, Jenya
>>>>>
>>>>> --
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>>>>> an email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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>>>>> .
>>>>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] After a 40 min of driving the battery is almost dead.

2019-08-22 Thread Jenya Spektor
Thank you guys - will troubleshoot and look into the manual as well. J

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 22, 2019, at 2:54 PM, Darin Hatton  wrote:
> 
> Glad to help. Although I misspoke. If you are going to check the 3 yellow 
> output wires from alternator the coupler needs to be plugged in. The white 
> and black wires in that plug excite the field coil, without those plugged in 
> it wont charge
> 
>> On Thu, Aug 22, 2019, 1:59 PM Graham Rogers  
>> wrote:
>> That better explains it, thanks Darin
>> 
>> 
>>> On Thu, Aug 22, 2019, 10:37 AM Darin Hatton  wrote:
>>> If you check what Graham posted and have no increase in DC voltage here is 
>>> an easy check on your stator out of the factory service manual for my 700. 
>>> You can also run the bike with the 3 yellow wires from stator unplugged and 
>>> check for voltage. Meter must be set to ac, as it is an ac generator.  All 
>>> 3 wires should have approximately the same output
>>> 
>>>> On Thu, Aug 22, 2019, 10:07 AM Graham Rogers  
>>>> wrote:
>>>> With a volt meter Jenya. Check voltage of battery while bike is not 
>>>> running. Should be over 12 volts. Then start the bike and check voltage 
>>>> again while slowly increasing the rpms. It should read over 13.5 volts 
>>>> over 3000 rpms.
>>>> If the volts remain the same (12 volt range or decrease) then the problem 
>>>> is your charging system, (wiring, alternator and/or regulator). Others can 
>>>> tell you how to test them, Graham
>>>> 
>>>>> On Thu, Aug 22, 2019 at 9:50 AM Jenya Spektor  
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>> Hello friends,
>>>>> I have noticed recently that my battery is loosing juice after a long 
>>>>> drives. Where do I start with troubleshooting the cause?
>>>>> I have a 1983 CB650 NH. The light is always on. Nothing else should be 
>>>>> draining the battery? Unless... Can you help to troubleshoot.
>>>>> (The battery is 6month old and has been trickle charged when not riding).
>>>>> Sincerely, Jenya
>>>>> -- 
>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>>>>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>>>>> email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/80966c4b-a6b1-4f91-9c90-88cdd3ad4c4c%40googlegroups.com.
>>>> 
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[Nighthawk Lovers] After a 40 min of driving the battery is almost dead.

2019-08-22 Thread Jenya Spektor
Hello friends,
I have noticed recently that my battery is loosing juice after a long 
drives. Where do I start with troubleshooting the cause?
I have a 1983 CB650 NH. The light is always on. Nothing else should be 
draining the battery? Unless... Can you help to troubleshoot.
(The battery is 6month old and has been trickle charged when not riding).
Sincerely, Jenya

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Oil is leaking from the rubber (half-circle) gaskets under the valve cover.

2019-08-15 Thread Jenya Spektor
Anyone can help?

On Wednesday, August 14, 2019 at 4:01:10 PM UTC-4, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>
> Would anyone know or have a part number for these? See pic. I did change 
> the gasket already and hoped that a small leak would stop. But it did not - 
> so I think it's those little suckers. It is the ones that are on the header 
> side of the engine (front). The ones on the carb side do not leak.
> Thanks, jenya
>
> PS: Here is how she sounds and idles after all the issues I had before had 
> been addressed. See video here: 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ny0umBX6ltxHT3JZMhvfMYNDJsDx-qp-/view?usp=sharing
>
>

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Oil is leaking from the rubber (half-circle) gaskets under the valve cover.

2019-08-14 Thread Jenya Spektor
Would anyone know or have a part number for these? See pic. I did change 
the gasket already and hoped that a small leak would stop. But it did not - 
so I think it's those little suckers. It is the ones that are on the header 
side of the engine (front). The ones on the carb side do not leak.
Thanks, jenya

PS: Here is how she sounds and idles after all the issues I had before had 
been addressed. See video 
here: 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ny0umBX6ltxHT3JZMhvfMYNDJsDx-qp-/view?usp=sharing

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

2019-08-05 Thread Jenya Spektor
Good morning,
What should be a gap for the new set of the NGK standard spark plugs? 
Thanks again.
J

On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 4:58:13 PM UTC-4, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>
> I did - and it was firing when against the engine block. 
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 2, 2019, at 4:29 PM, Holger Selover-Stephan  
> wrote:
>
> I meant "ran the engine with one spark plug wire removed"
>
> On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 1:27:04 PM UTC-7, Holger Selover-Stephan 
> wrote:
>>
>> Good advice from Graham. My money is fuel not getting to the cylinder. If 
>> you ran the engine with one spark plug removed from a working cylinder and 
>> you pulled that plug you should see unburned gas on plug and inside the 
>> jug. You reported a dry plug, so the cylinder isn’t supplied with fuel. 
>>
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> .
>
>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

2019-08-02 Thread Jenya Spektor
I did - and it was firing when against the engine block. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 2, 2019, at 4:29 PM, Holger Selover-Stephan  
> wrote:
> 
> I meant "ran the engine with one spark plug wire removed"
> 
>> On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 1:27:04 PM UTC-7, Holger Selover-Stephan wrote:
>> Good advice from Graham. My money is fuel not getting to the cylinder. If 
>> you ran the engine with one spark plug removed from a working cylinder and 
>> you pulled that plug you should see unburned gas on plug and inside the jug. 
>> You reported a dry plug, so the cylinder isn’t supplied with fuel. 
> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

2019-08-02 Thread Jenya Spektor
It’s actually the spark plug - just swapped it with a new one and viola - the 
header is hot and we are in business. Thank you guys- you advice and time is 
much appreciated

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 2, 2019, at 4:16 PM, Graham Rogers  wrote:
> 
> I would still swap #3 carb with one of the others in the same bank just to be 
> sure
> 
>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 4:12 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>> So comrades - it is the cylinder or related issue. Just swapped the 3rd carb 
>> with a spare one and the story is the same. So what can I do with my limited 
>> resources and troubleshoot the problem with the engine/cylinder? Thanks
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Aug 2, 2019, at 9:52 AM, Graham Rogers  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Should have been wet with gas if you had spark but no gas getting to it. 
>>> Does that cylinder give a vacuum reading  when using gauges?
>>> 
>>>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:48 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>>>> Dry and looked good (as per chart I have).
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:37 AM Graham Rogers  
>>>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> Right, was that #3 spark plug wet or dry when you removed it?
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:33 AM Jenya Spektor  
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> Thanks for that - yes I have a spare rack of carbs. Will replace and see.
>>>>>> Now just to rule it out - the cylinder (given the fact that there is a 
>>>>>> spark and the the gage showed above a 100 compression) seems to not be 
>>>>>> the culprit, correct?
>>>>>> Let me know.
>>>>>> J
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:22 AM Graham Rogers 
>>>>>>>  wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Time consuming but switch #s 2 and 3 carbs and see if the problem also 
>>>>>>> switches
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 8:36 AM Tommy Hill  wrote:
>>>>>>>> If your jets and everything is really clean, there is one more 
>>>>>>>> possibility. In the top of the bowl is a tiny vent opening.  Mine were 
>>>>>>>> clogged and ran like crap.  When I gave up, and a pro got it cleaned 
>>>>>>>> and blown out (his third try!) it finally ran like brand new.  
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> -- 
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>>>>>>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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>>>>>>>> an email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/0b242da4-d875-4058-ab88-9b2e44348bc5%40googlegroups.com.
>>>>>>> 
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>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
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>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>> Jenya Spektor
>>>>>> 917.202.3080
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>>>>> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

2019-08-02 Thread Jenya Spektor
So comrades - it is the cylinder or related issue. Just swapped the 3rd carb 
with a spare one and the story is the same. So what can I do with my limited 
resources and troubleshoot the problem with the engine/cylinder? Thanks

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 2, 2019, at 9:52 AM, Graham Rogers  wrote:
> 
> 
> Should have been wet with gas if you had spark but no gas getting to it. Does 
> that cylinder give a vacuum reading  when using gauges?
> 
>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:48 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>> Dry and looked good (as per chart I have).
>> 
>> 
>>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:37 AM Graham Rogers  
>>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>>> Right, was that #3 spark plug wet or dry when you removed it?
>>> 
>>>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:33 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>>>> Thanks for that - yes I have a spare rack of carbs. Will replace and see.
>>>> Now just to rule it out - the cylinder (given the fact that there is a 
>>>> spark and the the gage showed above a 100 compression) seems to not be the 
>>>> culprit, correct?
>>>> Let me know.
>>>> J
>>>> 
>>>>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:22 AM Graham Rogers  
>>>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> Time consuming but switch #s 2 and 3 carbs and see if the problem also 
>>>>> switches
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 8:36 AM Tommy Hill  wrote:
>>>>>> If your jets and everything is really clean, there is one more 
>>>>>> possibility. In the top of the bowl is a tiny vent opening.  Mine were 
>>>>>> clogged and ran like crap.  When I gave up, and a pro got it cleaned and 
>>>>>> blown out (his third try!) it finally ran like brand new.  
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>>>>> an email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/0b242da4-d875-4058-ab88-9b2e44348bc5%40googlegroups.com.
>>>>> 
>>>>> -- 
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>>>> 
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>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> -- 
>>>> Jenya Spektor
>>>> 917.202.3080
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>>> 
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>> 
>> 
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>> Jenya Spektor
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

2019-08-02 Thread Jenya Spektor
Dry and looked good (as per chart I have).


On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:37 AM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> Right, was that #3 spark plug wet or dry when you removed it?
>
> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:33 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>
>> Thanks for that - yes I have a spare rack of carbs. Will replace and see.
>> Now just to rule it out - the cylinder (given the fact that there is a
>> spark and the the gage showed above a 100 compression) seems to not be the
>> culprit, correct?
>> Let me know.
>> J
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:22 AM Graham Rogers 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Time consuming but switch #s 2 and 3 carbs and see if the problem also
>>> switches
>>>
>>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 8:36 AM Tommy Hill  wrote:
>>>
>>>> If your jets and everything is really clean, there is one more
>>>> possibility. In the top of the bowl is a tiny vent opening.  Mine were
>>>> clogged and ran like crap.  When I gave up, and a pro got it cleaned and
>>>> blown out (his third try!) it finally ran like brand new.
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>>> an email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/0b242da4-d875-4058-ab88-9b2e44348bc5%40googlegroups.com
>>>> .
>>>>
>>> --
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>>>
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>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jenya Spektor
>> 917.202.3080
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

2019-08-02 Thread Jenya Spektor
Thanks for that - yes I have a spare rack of carbs. Will replace and see.
Now just to rule it out - the cylinder (given the fact that there is a
spark and the the gage showed above a 100 compression) seems to not be the
culprit, correct?
Let me know.
J

On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 9:22 AM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> Time consuming but switch #s 2 and 3 carbs and see if the problem also
> switches
>
> On Fri, Aug 2, 2019 at 8:36 AM Tommy Hill  wrote:
>
>> If your jets and everything is really clean, there is one more
>> possibility. In the top of the bowl is a tiny vent opening.  Mine were
>> clogged and ran like crap.  When I gave up, and a pro got it cleaned and
>> blown out (his third try!) it finally ran like brand new.
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
>> email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/0b242da4-d875-4058-ab88-9b2e44348bc5%40googlegroups.com
>> .
>>
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> .
>


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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

2019-08-02 Thread Jenya Spektor
Good morning. Took off the carbs. Took off 3 from the rack. Cleaned it 
thoroughly. Back on and still no luck. Any other suggestions?
I was thinking of taking off the spark plug and trying to hand crank it to see 
if the cylinder comes up and what is the state of the said cylinder.
What else?
Thank you.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 31, 2019, at 11:19 AM, Doug Jones  wrote:
> 
> Jenya
> 
> I would think that it would have to be fuel not getting to the 
> cylinder. Did you try spraying a little starting fluid into the third 
> carburetor? I wonder if that could get it to sputterDid you clean the 
> carbs? I put mine into a Sonic Cleaner with Carb cleaner to get the circuits 
> clean.
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> DJ 
> 
>> On Wed, Jul 31, 2019 at 11:03 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>> 
>> Doug,
>> Thanks for the guidance on the non-working cylinder. I had removed the spark 
>> plug - it works. The compression is above 100 when I checked.
>> The plug itself is looking good as well - no weird deposits or discoloration.
>> Could not see the top of the piston. So you had mentioned it might be fuel - 
>> meaning the 3rd carb is not doing what it is supposed to do, correct?
>> Or is it something else?
>> Any help would be appreciated.
>> Jenya
>> 
>> 
>>> On Fri, Jul 26, 2019 at 10:14 AM Doug Jones  wrote:
>>> If I suspected that one of the cylinders was not firing I would remove the 
>>> spark plug and lay it on the engine making a good ground and just press the 
>>> starter button seeing if I could see a spark in the plug gap. if not either 
>>> bad plug, wire or coil. then shine a light down into the cylinder to see if 
>>> there isn't a bad piston (hole in the top).
>>> If you get spark and you compression test the cylinder and it is good then 
>>> its fuel...
>>> 
>>> Hope this helps
>>> 
>>>> On Fri, Jul 26, 2019 at 9:51 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>>>> I found the problem - one of the wires in the ignition switch came loose. 
>>>> Soldered it together and the bike started right up.
>>>> Now I have a new issue - cylinder 3 is not working (or so it seems - the 
>>>> header pipe is cold). The carbs were freshly cleaned and floats and float 
>>>> needles were replaced, all the jets checked and cleaned, all the openings 
>>>> blown out and free of any debris or deposits.
>>>> Where should I start? Compression? Spark plug?
>>>> And thanks for all the info on the continuity - will use it in the future 
>>>> to troubleshoot things.
>>>> J
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 2:04 PM Doug Jones  wrote:
>>>>> I had the same issue and found that where the fuses plug in the prongs 
>>>>> looked fine but were broken. I opened the box like in the picture and 
>>>>> tested continuity and found that there was none. When I tested for 
>>>>> voltage on the fuses I had 12 volts on top and bottom but when I opened 
>>>>> the box up and pluged the fuses in with out power I tested for continuity 
>>>>> attaching one lead to where the power comes in ( lower Right Hand corner 
>>>>> of the box) and went to the top and bottom of the fuse and got a BEEP. 
>>>>> when I went to the bottom of the bar that came off the fuse NO BEEP. It 
>>>>> turns out the prong touching the lower leg of the fuse was 
>>>>> MICROSCOPICALLY severed. When I took out the fuse and tested one side of 
>>>>> the prong BEEP and on the other side of the prong that touched the fuse 
>>>>> Nothing.
>>>>> 
>>>>> So to fix it I soldered wire against that leg and bent it inward so the 
>>>>> fuse HAD to touch it. I found two of the connections broken. Once I did 
>>>>> this my horn and signals worked. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> I hope this helped.
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Thursday, July 25, 2019 at 1:46:14 PM UTC-4, Kyle Munz wrote:
>>>>>> That would work for voltage, make sure the negative prong is in contact 
>>>>>> with ground, such as a bolt or some other unpainted surface on the frame 
>>>>>> or the negative terminal on the battery. The positive prong has to come 
>>>>>> in contact with the metal conductor of the wire you're testing. 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> To test the switch you would switch the multimeter to continuity (Ohms) 
>>>>>> rather than voltage. You can te

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

2019-07-26 Thread Jenya Spektor
I found the problem - one of the wires in the ignition switch came loose.
Soldered it together and the bike started right up.
Now I have a new issue - cylinder 3 is not working (or so it seems - the
header pipe is cold). The carbs were freshly cleaned and floats and float
needles were replaced, all the jets checked and cleaned, all the openings
blown out and free of any debris or deposits.
Where should I start? Compression? Spark plug?
And thanks for all the info on the continuity - will use it in the future
to troubleshoot things.
J


On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 2:04 PM Doug Jones  wrote:

> I had the same issue and found that where the fuses plug in the prongs
> looked fine but were broken. I opened the box like in the picture and
> tested continuity and found that there was none. When I tested for voltage
> on the fuses I had 12 volts on top and bottom but when I opened the box up
> and pluged the fuses in with out power I tested for continuity attaching
> one lead to where the power comes in ( lower Right Hand corner of the box)
> and went to the top and bottom of the fuse and got a BEEP. when I went to
> the bottom of the bar that came off the fuse NO BEEP. It turns out the
> prong touching the lower leg of the fuse was MICROSCOPICALLY severed. When
> I took out the fuse and tested one side of the prong BEEP and on the other
> side of the prong that touched the fuse Nothing.
>
> So to fix it I soldered wire against that leg and bent it inward so the
> fuse HAD to touch it. I found two of the connections broken. Once I did
> this my horn and signals worked.
>
> I hope this helped.
>
> On Thursday, July 25, 2019 at 1:46:14 PM UTC-4, Kyle Munz wrote:
>>
>> That would work for voltage, make sure the negative prong is in contact
>> with ground, such as a bolt or some other unpainted surface on the frame or
>> the negative terminal on the battery. The positive prong has to come in
>> contact with the metal conductor of the wire you're testing.
>>
>> To test the switch you would switch the multimeter to continuity (Ohms)
>> rather than voltage. You can test your meter in this mode by touching the
>> test probes together, it should go to 0 or possibly beep. When the probes
>> are apart it should read infinite resistance or probably a 1, depends on
>> the meter. When you touch the probes to two ends of the same wire it should
>> read 0 resistance, if it doesn't you know you have a break in that circuit
>> somewhere. On the ignition switch you would test for resistance between
>> red/black and brown/white with one of the solid browns. With the key in the
>> off position you should have infinite resistance for those two pairs since
>> the circuit is open. When the key in the On position you should have 0
>> resistance between red/black, and the brown/white and one of the Browns. In
>> the Park position you should have 0 resistance with the other Brown.
>>
>>
>> -Kyle
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 12:19 PM Jenya Spektor 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Kyle,
>>> How to check properly for the voltage coming into the switch or the fuse
>>> box? Stick the positive prong of the multimeter onto the open part of the
>>> wire? Or inside of the plastic plug? As you can sense I am new to anything
>>> electrical (and should not have even started to mss around with the bike in
>>> the first place).
>>> Thanks, J
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 9:32 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>>
>>>> You're going to need a multimeter. There's a table at the bottom left
>>>> of the wiring diagram that shows which circuits are closed/open in the
>>>> different positions of the switch. The fuseblock and ignition switch and
>>>> main fuse are all quick/easy things to check, but if they don't turn up
>>>> anything it's best to grab the diagram and methodically check things step
>>>> by step. I usually start at the battery, make sure it has a good ground
>>>> then go off the positive terminal and test each step for voltage. The
>>>> starter relay, the red wire going to the fuse block, both sides of the
>>>> fuse, the red wire coming out of the fuseblock into the ignition switch,
>>>> and so on. Also, the dark green wires are the ground circuit, make sure
>>>> that circuit is still grounded to the frame. Also to clarify, when you say
>>>> no power you mean no lights or anything right? Not just no cranking?
>>>>
>>>> -Kyle
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 6:33 AM Jenya Spektor 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Did do everything you g

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

2019-07-24 Thread Jenya Spektor
I did check the fuse at solenoid - seems to be ok. I had replaced it a few
moth back and it seems to be ok.

On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 2:15 PM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> The problem with the 650 fuse block is where the fuses plug into. That’s
> where I have always had trouble. I solved it on my last 650 by thickening
> the prongs on the fuses. I bent tiny pieces of aluminum over each prong and
> pushed the fuses in place.
> However if you have no power at all, check the fuse at the solenoid
>
> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 10:11 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>
>> The fuseblock on the 650 is right underneath the headlight bucket, and
>> the plugs on the back get loose with age. If you were tugging on the wires
>> it's possible they came disconnected. Especially check the plug with the
>> red/black wires, it gets loose and begins to arc and will melt the plastic
>> fuseblock.
>>
>> -Kyle
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 8:59 AM Jenya Spektor 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Power no more...
>>> I am going to confess - it's entirely my fault. The bike was starting
>>> and running fine until... I decided to change the gage cluster to the
>>> single all-in-one gage. So I took off the light and unhooked all the wires
>>> from the light bucket as well as disconnected the old gage cluster. I did
>>> put on the new gage and the new light. Since the fittings did not work
>>> (brackets were too small), i decided to temporarily put the original
>>> components back on. I did reassemble everything back together, and upon
>>> turning the ignition switch on there was NOTHING...
>>> I can't say where the power went out - I did not short anything, all the
>>> connections were via plastic connectors and insulated with shrink
>>> insulation.
>>> The battery did not loose any power (it's at 12.5V). All the fuses seem
>>> to be intact - no blown wires inside of them.
>>> Questions:
>>> 1. Since I have been pulling on the harness or some individual wires,
>>> could be it be that? And if so, which wire would result in cutting the
>>> power completely off?
>>> 2. Which component (if I did short something) would cause the bike to
>>> have no power?
>>> 3. How do I troubleshoot the problem now?
>>> 4. One of the horns did not work, could this prevent the power from
>>> coming back on?
>>>
>>> Appreciate any feedback.
>>> Jenya
>>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 85 hawk to cafe racer

2019-07-24 Thread Jenya Spektor
Hey man, How is you conversion going? All done I presume.
I have a question about the fuse box relocation and rewiring of the 83 NH 
650.
I am about to start doing that, but really don't know where to start - 
especially when it comes to the wiring plugs that go into the fuse box (6 
plugs in all).
If I were to move the fuse box under the seat (like you did) and use a 
newer box, what do I do with all the original connections that terminate at 
the OEM fuse box?
It's a lot of wires inside the old headlight housing and the fuse box and I 
am not sure where to start.
Thanks for any pointers on that.
Jenya

On Thursday, February 7, 2019 at 10:21:51 PM UTC-5, roidfingers wrote:
>
> Wont hurt the motor, cuz it wont run. Mainly Performance. Once I rebuild 
> my front calipers and the paper washers for the discs get her, I can 
> reinstall them and take her for first ride. That tells you what you need to 
> do. Lean it out? Install some baffles? And pipe extensions, etcAnd 
> having to adjust your pilot screws with any change.
>
> On Thursday, February 7, 2019 at 8:59:04 PM UTC-6, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>>
>> Got it - *without rejetting thought,* will it hurt the carbs or the 
>> motor if the air filters are different? Or does it affect the performance 
>> only?
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Feb 7, 2019 at 7:58 PM 'roidfingers' via Nighthawk Motorcycle 
>> Lovers!  wrote:
>>
>>> Carbs are all about the air intake and the exhaust output through the 
>>> motor. If you want to keep the OEM then no change. If you go different 
>>> filters and chopped exhaust as mine is then yes. If you change  oem airbox 
>>> to anything else and the exhaust, it all makes a difference on your jets 
>>> and on ur pilot screws. Yes its an aftermarket fuse box. Probably 10 bucks. 
>>> Air shocks was easy. I measured the stock travel with wheel of the ground 
>>> and decided I wanted to go with a longer shock and slide the front forks to 
>>> level the bike out.
>>>
>>> On Thursday, February 7, 2019 at 5:14:49 PM UTC-6, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I am a novice as you can tell. Trying to learn more about the build - 
>>>> is rejetting essential or will the carbs be damaged if the stock jets stay 
>>>> on? Leaning out the pilot screws - does it mean unscrewing them after they 
>>>> had been lightly seated? More questions - did you need anything special to 
>>>> install the new air shocks? Or did the lot from fny had everything you 
>>>> needed? The fuse box - I presume you moved from the front to the back - 
>>>> this looks like an aftermarket piece. I do appreciate your educating me on 
>>>> this. I love the way your bike looks and am hoping to get mine to be 
>>>> similar. Best, J
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>> On Feb 7, 2019, at 4:57 PM, 'roidfingers' via Nighthawk Motorcycle 
>>>> Lovers!  wrote:
>>>>
>>>> This is the battery. I went with the smallest I could find, with enogh 
>>>> CC amps and at a good price. There are smaller ones out there if you don't 
>>>> mind paying 200 ++.
>>>> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ASMWMW4/ref=psdc_404722011_t3_B0131FZKW8 
>>>> . Yes I had to rejet. I went to this website and got them. They have a 
>>>> menu 
>>>> thing that you put your make model year bike in and then it ask's you 
>>>> about 
>>>> your set up and will then tell you what to buy. Worked out good for me. 
>>>> Still need to sync the carbs but it sounds great. However I haven't rode 
>>>> it 
>>>> yet. May have to tweek the fuel/air screws a little. 
>>>> http://carbjetkits.com/bikes-with-jet-kit-calculator.html.
>>>>
>>>> On Thursday, February 7, 2019 at 11:58:10 AM UTC-6, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Thank you for that - I have some more questions - will send you them 
>>>>> as I look through every picture and try to see what I don’t know 
>>>>> understand. My first question would be the brand of RE battery, and are 
>>>>> there any adjustments to the carbs i need to do if I were to switch to 
>>>>> pancake air filters like on your bike.
>>>>> As for everything else - I would be really scared to touch the wiring 
>>>>> - but that’s just me... I think it might be easier than I think it is. 
>>>>> Thanks for your pictures and your time Jenya
>>>>>
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>
>>>>> On Feb 3, 2019, at 2

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

2019-07-24 Thread Jenya Spektor
A question - if the fuse box is no good, can I install one of those new
fuse boxes and replace the old one? The only difficulty is the fact that
all the plastic connectors from the ignition, the gages, etc. plug into the
original fuse box.
How would I go about relocating the fuse box/panel to under the seat
location?
Thanks again.

On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 10:42 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:

> I completely disassembled the fuseblock on my old 650 to clean and rebuild
> it. The problem is the female spade connectors on the plugs get loose and
> no longer grip the metal bars inside the block. I pulled the bars out and
> sanded them to knock off any grime or oxidation, and used a small
> screwdriver to bend the connectors inside the plugs inward so they made
> firm contact with the bars again. I've got pics on my blog:
> http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=166
>
> -Kyle
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 9:34 AM Jenya Spektor 
> wrote:
>
>> Kyle, I did check the fuse block and everything is plugged in fine (I
>> actually unplugged every connector going into the fuse block one by one)
>> and nothing seems loose - UNLESS something inside the fuse block melted or
>> came undone. What should my next step be? Thanks for a speedy reply.
>> Jenya
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 10:11 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>
>>> The fuseblock on the 650 is right underneath the headlight bucket, and
>>> the plugs on the back get loose with age. If you were tugging on the wires
>>> it's possible they came disconnected. Especially check the plug with the
>>> red/black wires, it gets loose and begins to arc and will melt the plastic
>>> fuseblock.
>>>
>>> -Kyle
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 8:59 AM Jenya Spektor 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Power no more...
>>>> I am going to confess - it's entirely my fault. The bike was starting
>>>> and running fine until... I decided to change the gage cluster to the
>>>> single all-in-one gage. So I took off the light and unhooked all the wires
>>>> from the light bucket as well as disconnected the old gage cluster. I did
>>>> put on the new gage and the new light. Since the fittings did not work
>>>> (brackets were too small), i decided to temporarily put the original
>>>> components back on. I did reassemble everything back together, and upon
>>>> turning the ignition switch on there was NOTHING...
>>>> I can't say where the power went out - I did not short anything, all
>>>> the connections were via plastic connectors and insulated with shrink
>>>> insulation.
>>>> The battery did not loose any power (it's at 12.5V). All the fuses seem
>>>> to be intact - no blown wires inside of them.
>>>> Questions:
>>>> 1. Since I have been pulling on the harness or some individual wires,
>>>> could be it be that? And if so, which wire would result in cutting the
>>>> power completely off?
>>>> 2. Which component (if I did short something) would cause the bike to
>>>> have no power?
>>>> 3. How do I troubleshoot the problem now?
>>>> 4. One of the horns did not work, could this prevent the power from
>>>> coming back on?
>>>>
>>>> Appreciate any feedback.
>>>> Jenya
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>>> an email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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>>>> .
>>>>
>>> --
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

2019-07-24 Thread Jenya Spektor
Kyle, I did check the fuse block and everything is plugged in fine (I
actually unplugged every connector going into the fuse block one by one)
and nothing seems loose - UNLESS something inside the fuse block melted or
came undone. What should my next step be? Thanks for a speedy reply.
Jenya

On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 10:11 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:

> The fuseblock on the 650 is right underneath the headlight bucket, and the
> plugs on the back get loose with age. If you were tugging on the wires it's
> possible they came disconnected. Especially check the plug with the
> red/black wires, it gets loose and begins to arc and will melt the plastic
> fuseblock.
>
> -Kyle
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 8:59 AM Jenya Spektor 
> wrote:
>
>> Power no more...
>> I am going to confess - it's entirely my fault. The bike was starting and
>> running fine until... I decided to change the gage cluster to the single
>> all-in-one gage. So I took off the light and unhooked all the wires from
>> the light bucket as well as disconnected the old gage cluster. I did put on
>> the new gage and the new light. Since the fittings did not work (brackets
>> were too small), i decided to temporarily put the original components back
>> on. I did reassemble everything back together, and upon turning the
>> ignition switch on there was NOTHING...
>> I can't say where the power went out - I did not short anything, all the
>> connections were via plastic connectors and insulated with shrink
>> insulation.
>> The battery did not loose any power (it's at 12.5V). All the fuses seem
>> to be intact - no blown wires inside of them.
>> Questions:
>> 1. Since I have been pulling on the harness or some individual wires,
>> could be it be that? And if so, which wire would result in cutting the
>> power completely off?
>> 2. Which component (if I did short something) would cause the bike to
>> have no power?
>> 3. How do I troubleshoot the problem now?
>> 4. One of the horns did not work, could this prevent the power from
>> coming back on?
>>
>> Appreciate any feedback.
>> Jenya
>>
>> --
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>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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>> email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/b4523da8-6ba2-48eb-a753-028f44baa4fb%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>> .
>>
> --
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> .
>


-- 
Jenya Spektor
917.202.3080

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[Nighthawk Lovers] My bike (1983 NH 650) went dead - no electrical power at all.

2019-07-24 Thread Jenya Spektor
Power no more...
I am going to confess - it's entirely my fault. The bike was starting and 
running fine until... I decided to change the gage cluster to the single 
all-in-one gage. So I took off the light and unhooked all the wires from 
the light bucket as well as disconnected the old gage cluster. I did put on 
the new gage and the new light. Since the fittings did not work (brackets 
were too small), i decided to temporarily put the original components back 
on. I did reassemble everything back together, and upon turning the 
ignition switch on there was NOTHING...
I can't say where the power went out - I did not short anything, all the 
connections were via plastic connectors and insulated with shrink 
insulation. 
The battery did not loose any power (it's at 12.5V). All the fuses seem to 
be intact - no blown wires inside of them.
Questions:
1. Since I have been pulling on the harness or some individual wires, could 
be it be that? And if so, which wire would result in cutting the power 
completely off?
2. Which component (if I did short something) would cause the bike to have 
no power?
3. How do I troubleshoot the problem now?
4. One of the horns did not work, could this prevent the power from coming 
back on?

Appreciate any feedback.
Jenya

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Gas in engine oil - leaking carbs (again).

2019-06-07 Thread Jenya Spektor
At the end of the day non of it makes sense if the carbs do not perform at
least as they should (I am not even hoping for anything great)  - just
hoping that all four work and the idling is more or less consistent. Thank
you truly - you guys are the reason I persevere.
J


On Thu, Jun 6, 2019 at 6:04 PM Darin Hatton  wrote:

> Glad to hear. Downloaded the wiring diagram on my old phone and couldn't
> zoom in on it. Checked it out on my new phone and could read it. Again,
> glad to hear you're on your way
>
> On Thu, Jun 6, 2019, 5:58 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>
>> Yes it was really helpful - and now that I know what those wires are
>> splicing the new speedo into the old connectors is going to be much easier.
>> Will keep you posted on the progress.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jun 6, 2019, at 3:04 PM, Darin Hatton  wrote:
>>
>> Good luck Jenya, do any good with the wiring diagram Kyle sent?
>> On Thu, Jun 6, 2019, 1:36 PM Graham Rogers 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Just blow compressed air through them
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jun 6, 2019 at 1:22 PM Jenya Spektor 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I will do both - will check the overflow tubes and plastic joints as
>>>> well as inspect and polish the needle seats.
>>>> In fact I do not have the tubes - only the plastic t-joints in between
>>>> the cards - I have not taken them out to see if there is blockage.
>>>> Best, J
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Jun 6, 2019 at 12:02 PM Darin Hatton 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Had same issue. Replaced float needles, same issue. Polished the
>>>>> needle seats with mothers aluminum polish on q-tip in my drill. No more
>>>>> issue
>>>>>
>>>>> On Thu, Jun 6, 2019, 10:33 AM Jenya Spektor 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> After a series of episodes of the leaking carbs, I decided to see if
>>>>>> it had leaked into the engine - and viola - it did.
>>>>>> So I am taking the carbs out yet again and will double check the
>>>>>> float levels and the float needles. Some of them (at least 3) have very
>>>>>> little spring action left in them.
>>>>>> Should I order a set of new ones and replace all four - since my
>>>>>> plastic floats are not adjustable, will changing the float valves help me
>>>>>> with the correctly setting the height?
>>>>>> (The carbs were cleaned well the last time I serviced them about a
>>>>>> month ago).
>>>>>> Could there be anything else that causes these overflow leaks?
>>>>>> I will obviously be changing the oil as well.
>>>>>> Any help or insight is appreciated.
>>>>>> Jenya
>>>>>>
>>>>>> --
>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>>>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it,
>>>>>> send an email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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>>>>>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers.
>>>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/3096e933-89a7-4441-a246-0c80d01b0ff3%40googlegroups.com
>>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/3096e933-89a7-4441-a246-0c80d01b0ff3%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>>>>> .
>>>>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>>>>
>>>>> --
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>>>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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>>>>> an email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>> To post to this group, send email to nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>>>>> .
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>>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/CAPuX%2Bfz129EdDJ5Vzp_BErFJ4%3DsXLXL1P9COGYK6RHPD40sBjQ%40mail.gmail.com

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Gas in engine oil - leaking carbs (again).

2019-06-06 Thread Jenya Spektor
Yes it was really helpful - and now that I know what those wires are splicing 
the new speedo into the old connectors is going to be much easier. Will keep 
you posted on the progress.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 6, 2019, at 3:04 PM, Darin Hatton  wrote:
> 
> Good luck Jenya, do any good with the wiring diagram Kyle sent?
>> On Thu, Jun 6, 2019, 1:36 PM Graham Rogers  
>> wrote:
>> Just blow compressed air through them
>> 
>>> On Thu, Jun 6, 2019 at 1:22 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>>> I will do both - will check the overflow tubes and plastic joints as well 
>>> as inspect and polish the needle seats.
>>> In fact I do not have the tubes - only the plastic t-joints in between the 
>>> cards - I have not taken them out to see if there is blockage.
>>> Best, J
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Thu, Jun 6, 2019 at 12:02 PM Darin Hatton  
>>>> wrote:
>>>> Had same issue. Replaced float needles, same issue. Polished the needle 
>>>> seats with mothers aluminum polish on q-tip in my drill. No more issue 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Thu, Jun 6, 2019, 10:33 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>>>>> After a series of episodes of the leaking carbs, I decided to see if it 
>>>>> had leaked into the engine - and viola - it did.
>>>>> So I am taking the carbs out yet again and will double check the float 
>>>>> levels and the float needles. Some of them (at least 3) have very little 
>>>>> spring action left in them. 
>>>>> Should I order a set of new ones and replace all four - since my plastic 
>>>>> floats are not adjustable, will changing the float valves help me with 
>>>>> the correctly setting the height?
>>>>> (The carbs were cleaned well the last time I serviced them about a month 
>>>>> ago).
>>>>> Could there be anything else that causes these overflow leaks? 
>>>>> I will obviously be changing the oil as well.
>>>>> Any help or insight is appreciated.
>>>>> Jenya
>>>>> 
>>>>> -- 
>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>>>>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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>>>>> email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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>>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/nighthawk_lovers/3096e933-89a7-4441-a246-0c80d01b0ff3%40googlegroups.com.
>>>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>> 
>>>> -- 
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>>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> Jenya Spektor
>>> 917.202.3080
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>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Gas in engine oil - leaking carbs (again).

2019-06-06 Thread Jenya Spektor
I will do both - will check the overflow tubes and plastic joints as well
as inspect and polish the needle seats.
In fact I do not have the tubes - only the plastic t-joints in between the
cards - I have not taken them out to see if there is blockage.
Best, J


On Thu, Jun 6, 2019 at 12:02 PM Darin Hatton  wrote:

> Had same issue. Replaced float needles, same issue. Polished the needle
> seats with mothers aluminum polish on q-tip in my drill. No more issue
>
> On Thu, Jun 6, 2019, 10:33 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>
>> After a series of episodes of the leaking carbs, I decided to see if it
>> had leaked into the engine - and viola - it did.
>> So I am taking the carbs out yet again and will double check the float
>> levels and the float needles. Some of them (at least 3) have very little
>> spring action left in them.
>> Should I order a set of new ones and replace all four - since my plastic
>> floats are not adjustable, will changing the float valves help me with the
>> correctly setting the height?
>> (The carbs were cleaned well the last time I serviced them about a month
>> ago).
>> Could there be anything else that causes these overflow leaks?
>> I will obviously be changing the oil as well.
>> Any help or insight is appreciated.
>> Jenya
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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>> .
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
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[Nighthawk Lovers] Gas in engine oil - leaking carbs (again).

2019-06-06 Thread Jenya Spektor
After a series of episodes of the leaking carbs, I decided to see if it had 
leaked into the engine - and viola - it did.
So I am taking the carbs out yet again and will double check the float 
levels and the float needles. Some of them (at least 3) have very little 
spring action left in them. 
Should I order a set of new ones and replace all four - since my plastic 
floats are not adjustable, will changing the float valves help me with the 
correctly setting the height?
(The carbs were cleaned well the last time I serviced them about a month 
ago).
Could there be anything else that causes these overflow leaks? 
I will obviously be changing the oil as well.
Any help or insight is appreciated.
Jenya

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Wiring of the Speedo/Tach cluster

2019-05-31 Thread Jenya Spektor
I am about to start on it this weekend - appreciate any direction from NH
folks!
Thanks again,
J

On Thu, May 30, 2019 at 5:28 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:

> Hey friends,
> I am in a process of installing a single digital speedo and would like to
> use the plugs and the connectors from a spare original Speedo/tach cluster
> (for the 1983 NH 650) - so that I don't have to disturb any of the stock
> wiring.
>
> I had a question about what are some of the wires and thus I am back
> asking...
> I am attaching three pictures that I took of the wire bundles coming out
> of the cluster unit. I do know that one picture shows different gear
> indicator wires (1st through 6th gear).
> Not sure about the other two pictures (Misc 1 & 2) - can someone break it
> down for me? As many of the novices, I am thoroughly scared and confused
> with anything to do with wiring. I would greatly appreciate your help.
>
> Jenya, NYC
>
> PS - I am preserving pretty much everything on my 650 so that I can change
> it back to a stock with ease - because I do like the stock look as well.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Does oil need to be drained for valve cover gasket replacement?

2019-05-15 Thread Jenya Spektor
Got it - no debris in the engine. Check!
I just changed the oil so I want to avoid doing it again.
Thanks

On Wed, May 15, 2019 at 3:31 PM Amanda Wurzer 
wrote:

> Lol... I litterally just did this over the winter. You won't need to drain
> the oil but be damn careful when getting the old gasket out or scraping it
> off so that no debris falls into the engine. I changed my oil after I did
> it tho
>
> On Wed, May 15, 2019, 2:28 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>
>> Since this is the first time I have to do it (i have a small leak/wet
>> spot on the corners of the engine, right under the cover) I just need to
>> know if I need to drain ALL or just a bit to get the gasket replaced.
>> Thanks
>>
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[Nighthawk Lovers] Does oil need to be drained for valve cover gasket replacement?

2019-05-15 Thread Jenya Spektor
Since this is the first time I have to do it (i have a small leak/wet spot 
on the corners of the engine, right under the cover) I just need to know if 
I need to drain ALL or just a bit to get the gasket replaced.
Thanks

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Need help with my 1983 650

2019-04-14 Thread Jenya Spektor
I do have it. Will rebuilt it and keep as a spare. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 14, 2019, at 2:20 PM, Amanda Wurzer  wrote:
> 
> Do you still have the set of carbs? 
> 
>> On Sun, Apr 14, 2019, 1:15 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>> So - we are riding! I just gave up on the original set of carbs and 
>> installed an old set that I purchased off eBay for $70. Now, the next one up 
>> is a sync - here is what I get when I try to sync them up. See attached 
>> video. I am sure it’s something familiar to you guys - please suggest what 
>> or how. Thanks, J
>> -- 
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>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Apr 10, 2019, at 6:35 PM, Darin Hatton  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Don't throw in the towel yet jenya, if there is a problem it can be fixed. 
>>> Proper coding for the program, to put it in perspective :  )
>>> 
>>>> On Wed, Apr 10, 2019, 10:47 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>>>> Thanks Mike - will give them a call, see what it might take...
>>>> J//S
>>>> 
>>>>> On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 10:37 AM mike beatty  
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>> Hey sorry to hear your situation but i am in bronx ny if you go to web 
>>>>> site shop js called vent bike they have been servicing my night hawk 
>>>>> there over 2 years they are fair look them up they offer pick up also 
>>>>> goid luck
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Wed, Apr 10, 2019, 9:43 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>>>>>> I am about ready to give up. Need help! Does anyone from this group 
>>>>>> lives near NYC (South Brooklyn in particular) - I just need a little 
>>>>>> hand holding with this bike.
>>>>>> Or if there are any good mechanics around that I can talk to.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> It's all about the carbs. It started with a small leak and had turned 
>>>>>> into a not running bike. (See my earlier post here: Carbs started 
>>>>>> leaking out of the blue.)
>>>>>> Please let me know.
>>>>>> Sincerely, Jenya
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> -- 
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>>>>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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>>>>> 
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>>>> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Need help with my 1983 650

2019-04-10 Thread Jenya Spektor
Thanks Mike - will give them a call, see what it might take...
J//S

On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 10:37 AM mike beatty 
wrote:

> Hey sorry to hear your situation but i am in bronx ny if you go to web
> site shop js called vent bike they have been servicing my night hawk there
> over 2 years they are fair look them up they offer pick up also goid luck
>
> On Wed, Apr 10, 2019, 9:43 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>
>> I am about ready to give up. Need help! Does anyone from this group lives
>> near NYC (South Brooklyn in particular) - I just need a little hand holding
>> with this bike.
>> Or if there are any good mechanics around that I can talk to.
>>
>> It's all about the carbs. It started with a small leak and had turned
>> into a not running bike. (See my earlier post here: Carbs started
>> leaking out of the blue.)
>> Please let me know.
>> Sincerely, Jenya
>>
>> --
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Need help with my 1983 650

2019-04-10 Thread Jenya Spektor
Graham, since the bike is not in service, I can't get to you.
Kyle, yes, I do have the original set up - that was my next move - to
revert back to everything stock.
My worry is that the bike does not want to start - I'll post a video today
and maybe that will give you a better outlook on what's going on with it.
Thank you, J//S

On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 10:06 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:

> I saw in your previous post you went with pod filters, these are tricky to
> get tuned right, do you have the original airbox still?
>
> -Kyle
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 8:47 AM Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
>> Jenya, I live in central PA, about 3 and a half to 4 hours away I’m
>> guessing, unless there is traffic and it can be 6 hours, Graham
>>
>> On Thu, Apr 11, 2019 at 1:43 AM Jenya Spektor 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I am about ready to give up. Need help! Does anyone from this group
>>> lives near NYC (South Brooklyn in particular) - I just need a little hand
>>> holding with this bike.
>>> Or if there are any good mechanics around that I can talk to.
>>>
>>> It's all about the carbs. It started with a small leak and had turned
>>> into a not running bike. (See my earlier post here: Carbs started
>>> leaking out of the blue.)
>>> Please let me know.
>>> Sincerely, Jenya
>>>
>>> --
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[Nighthawk Lovers] Need help with my 1983 650

2019-04-10 Thread Jenya Spektor
I am about ready to give up. Need help! Does anyone from this group lives 
near NYC (South Brooklyn in particular) - I just need a little hand holding 
with this bike.
Or if there are any good mechanics around that I can talk to.

It's all about the carbs. It started with a small leak and had turned into 
a not running bike. (See my earlier post here: Carbs started leaking out of 
the blue.)
Please let me know.
Sincerely, Jenya

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the

2019-04-08 Thread Jenya Spektor
So the story continues
After cleaning (thoroughly) the carbs and rejetting them as per the
recommendation from (
http://carbjetkits.com/honda-cb650sc-1983-1985-ultimate.html) and putting
the pods air filters, the bike is backfiring and not starting half the time.
So, last I remember you guys had suggested to keep the shims but revert
back to the stock main jets. I leaned the pilot screws out to about 4 turns
to lean the mixture out - might that be what creates backfiring in the
pipes (BTW - the pipes are stock, and I did take them off, wrapped them and
put brand new gaskets on, then reassembled everything).
I did not do a compression check - but just to be clear, everything started
with a leak in one of the aluminum fuel connectors (o-rings) connecting
carb 2-3. So nothing was ever changed from before - and it was running fine
before I started with the whole carb cleaning saga...
Thanks again,
Jenya



On Thu, Mar 21, 2019 at 8:19 PM mike beatty 
wrote:

> Thank you guys
>
> On Mar 20, 2019 2:33 PM, "bobshel...@gmail.com" 
> wrote:
>
> Sweet ride man!! Great job!!
>
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers_wl=ym_sub1=Internal_sub2=Global_YGrowth_sub3=EmailSignature>
>
> On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 1:29 PM, mike beatty
>  wrote:
> This is what i did to my hawkyou guys like?
>
> On Mar 19, 2019 5:39 PM, "bobshel...@gmail.com" 
> wrote:
>
>
> You will definitely need to try some leaning if it's spitting fuel out the
> exhaust! That's a 120 jet.
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers_wl=ym_sub1=Internal_sub2=Global_YGrowth_sub3=EmailSignature>
>
> On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 2:37 PM, Jenya Spektor
>  wrote:
> I got it (the rejetting kit)from carbjetkits.com for the CB650 with air
> pod filters. I have not modified anything else on the bike.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 19, 2019, at 9:20 AM, "bobshel...@gmail.com" 
> wrote:
>
> What size jets did you install?
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers_wl=ym_sub1=Internal_sub2=Global_YGrowth_sub3=EmailSignature>
>
> On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 7:53 AM, Jenya Spektor
>  wrote:
> Thanks for that - will persevere...
> What about the fact that I have a bluish smoke and a strong smell of
> gasoline coming out of the pipes? Not sure if I had mentioned, but I had
> installed pancake air pods and rejetted the carbs accordingly. While the
> pilot screws are at the factory recommended 2 5/8 out. Should I lean them
> out more?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 17, 2019, at 9:23 PM, Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
> One carb, you will not be able to adjust, # 3 in your case I think, the
> one that has the vacuum tube. So that is the one you synch the other three
> to, whatever it reads. The trick is getting it running fairly well at idle
> to get a true reading.
> Yes let it run longer to get #1 running. We’ve all been through what
> you’re going through, so persist. You can’t synch the carbs with choke open
> to full unless that means choke ‘off’.
> Check that #1 spark plug, is it wet, black with carbon, white? That will
> at least tell you what’s going on. If it’s wet, dry it off and try again.
> One minute with choke operation not long enough, did you try backing the
> choke off and seeing if that cylinder fires. I’ve fooled around for hours
> trying to get all cylinders running sometimes. Maybe that one cylinder
> doesn’t need choke, you just have to experiment in starting procedure a
> bit. The last Nighthawk I synced all cylinders ended up at 20  but it took
> a bit of tweaking.
>
> On Sun, Mar 17, 2019 at 9:09 PM Jenya Spektor 
> wrote:
>
> Few more inquiries about syncing.
> 1. The manual said to have choke open to full - is that correct?
> 2. Where does the needle need to point on the sync gage dial when the carb
> pressure is correct?
>
> In general (to my great frustration):
> 1. It’s weird but the damn carbs keep not working at a random order -
> today the number one is not working(the header is cold) while others are at
> 70* C after a minute of open choke operation. Should I let it run longer -
> this is the first time I am starting after a full and thorough clean.
> 2. Should I lean out the pilot screw more (right now is at the
> factory/manual setting) - the exhaust smells strongly of gasoline.
> Thank you guys!
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 17, 2019, at 1:46 PM, Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
> I sometimes remove the vacuum tube, s

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Replacing the sight glass on the Master cylinder and bleeding the ....

2019-04-03 Thread Jenya Spektor
Thank you both again. My question is  - what makes the calipers release the
pads - is it when a rider releases the lever, the calipers are sucked in by
the same hydraulic pressure that pushed out before?


On Wed, Apr 3, 2019 at 10:58 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:

> It's not impossible to do without disconnecting the lines, and for just
> replacing the pads I usually keep calipers connected, but to actually
> clean/rebuild the calipers it's best to disconnect them. It makes it easier
> to get in there with the compressed air and some toothpicks to make sure
> they're clean.
>
> Also, apart from just cleaning the interior working of the calipers, the
> pins that they slide back and forth on can have corrosion build up which
> could cause dragging on one side vs the other.
>
> -Kyle
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 3, 2019 at 9:49 AM Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
>> Easy to get the pistons back in, I put brake fluid in the caliper, spread
>> some around the O rings in the caliper and gently jiggle the pistons back
>> in. They easily compress with fingers. No need to disconnect lines just
>> make sure level in reservoir is low so it doesn’t overflow out. Or, open
>> the bleeder valve on caliper.
>>
>> On Wed, Apr 3, 2019 at 10:43 AM Jenya Spektor 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Thank you both for the detailed response. If I am to do it without
>>> disconnecting the lines, how hard it is to depress them back into place in
>>> order to install new pads (which will make sense to install anyway)? I know
>>> I need to use a caliper tool that pushes them in on my 76 MGB - I
>>> definitely can't do it by just pressing with my fingers.
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Apr 3, 2019 at 9:51 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>>
>>>> I'm with Graham, cleaning and if necessary rebuilding the calipers is
>>>> cheap insurance that they're operating properly. I took pics when I did
>>>> mine:
>>>> http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=430
>>>> http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=463
>>>>
>>>> -Kyle
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, Apr 3, 2019 at 7:47 AM Graham Rogers <
>>>> grahamjoanrog...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Let me add what I mean by slats. I sometimes use paint sticks cut in
>>>>> thirds. I start off using as many necessary to fill the space in the
>>>>> calipers. Then pump the brakes till the pistons can’t go beyond the 
>>>>> sticks.
>>>>> One piston usually gets to the sticks before the other. The sticks stops
>>>>> the first piston from going any further, allowing the second piston to
>>>>> catch up. Then remove sticks to keep the pistons emerging at the same time
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 5:35 PM Graham Rogers <
>>>>> grahamjoanrog...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Jenya, I’m guessing it was like that before you bled the brakes. An
>>>>>> hours work to clean the calipers, maybe a little longer because you have
>>>>>> two sets to do. Worthwhile though. The hardest part is pumping the 
>>>>>> pistons
>>>>>> out of the calipers. You can do one at a time or pump out all four 
>>>>>> pistons
>>>>>> at the same time.
>>>>>> 1.  Unbolt the calipers on both sides so they hang freely.
>>>>>> 2. Make sure your brake reservoir is full, remove the disc pads from
>>>>>> both calipers. Remove the springs in the calipers.
>>>>>>  Now you have the pistons exposed.
>>>>>> 3.  I have wooden slats I place in the calipers where the pads were,
>>>>>> a couple of different thicknesses.
>>>>>> 4.  Now I carefully start pumping the brakes, watching the reservoir
>>>>>> fluid level and the pistons as they start to emerge from in the calipers.
>>>>>> The idea is, by using the wooden slats, to allow the pistons to be pumped
>>>>>> out evenly, so that all four are just about out and can be finally
>>>>>> extracted by removing the slats and pulling them out with either a last
>>>>>> pump and/or carefully jiggling them out with a pair of pliers. Get them
>>>>>> almost out by pumping, remove the slats or whatever you use, and 
>>>>>> sometimes
>>>>>> one good pump and they all pop out along with the remaining fluid. There
>>>>>> you go the hard part is done.
>>&g

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Replacing the sight glass on the Master cylinder and bleeding the ....

2019-04-03 Thread Jenya Spektor
Thank you both for the detailed response. If I am to do it without
disconnecting the lines, how hard it is to depress them back into place in
order to install new pads (which will make sense to install anyway)? I know
I need to use a caliper tool that pushes them in on my 76 MGB - I
definitely can't do it by just pressing with my fingers.
Thanks


On Wed, Apr 3, 2019 at 9:51 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:

> I'm with Graham, cleaning and if necessary rebuilding the calipers is
> cheap insurance that they're operating properly. I took pics when I did
> mine:
> http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=430
> http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=463
>
> -Kyle
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 3, 2019 at 7:47 AM Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
>> Let me add what I mean by slats. I sometimes use paint sticks cut in
>> thirds. I start off using as many necessary to fill the space in the
>> calipers. Then pump the brakes till the pistons can’t go beyond the sticks.
>> One piston usually gets to the sticks before the other. The sticks stops
>> the first piston from going any further, allowing the second piston to
>> catch up. Then remove sticks to keep the pistons emerging at the same time
>>
>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 5:35 PM Graham Rogers 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Jenya, I’m guessing it was like that before you bled the brakes. An
>>> hours work to clean the calipers, maybe a little longer because you have
>>> two sets to do. Worthwhile though. The hardest part is pumping the pistons
>>> out of the calipers. You can do one at a time or pump out all four pistons
>>> at the same time.
>>> 1.  Unbolt the calipers on both sides so they hang freely.
>>> 2. Make sure your brake reservoir is full, remove the disc pads from
>>> both calipers. Remove the springs in the calipers.
>>>  Now you have the pistons exposed.
>>> 3.  I have wooden slats I place in the calipers where the pads were, a
>>> couple of different thicknesses.
>>> 4.  Now I carefully start pumping the brakes, watching the reservoir
>>> fluid level and the pistons as they start to emerge from in the calipers.
>>> The idea is, by using the wooden slats, to allow the pistons to be pumped
>>> out evenly, so that all four are just about out and can be finally
>>> extracted by removing the slats and pulling them out with either a last
>>> pump and/or carefully jiggling them out with a pair of pliers. Get them
>>> almost out by pumping, remove the slats or whatever you use, and sometimes
>>> one good pump and they all pop out along with the remaining fluid. There
>>> you go the hard part is done.
>>>
>>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 5:18 PM Jenya Spektor 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Graham, Hello again!
>>>> The fluid was clear inside the reservoir.
>>>> It seem to bind in one place more then in the others.
>>>> The wheel does not spin freely.
>>>> I don't know if it was like that before I replaced the glass and bled
>>>> the breaks.
>>>> Thanks !
>>>>
>>>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 5:10 PM Graham Rogers <
>>>> grahamjoanrog...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> But was the fluid clear in the reservoir before you bled the brakes,
>>>>> the original fluid when you unscrewed the lid off the reservoir? Are you
>>>>> sure it’s binding and not just resting against the rotor. Is it constant 
>>>>> or
>>>>> just at a certain point on the rotor? When you anchor the back of the bike
>>>>> down so the front wheel is off the ground, does the wheel spin freely?
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 4:33 PM Jenya Spektor 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I have not done anything but to drain the cylinder and to replace the
>>>>>> glass (followed by replenishing the fluid and bleeding the breaks).
>>>>>> The liquid was clear when I bled the break lines.
>>>>>> So I am not sure why the slight binding would happen all of a sudden.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 1:35 PM Graham Rogers <
>>>>>> grahamjoanrog...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Brake pads should be loosely resting against the rotors, not binding
>>>>>>> them but you might hear that they are slightly resting against the 
>>>>>>> rotor.
>>>>>>> Any binding, you need to remove the calipers and pistons and clean them
>>>>>>

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Replacing the sight glass on the Master cylinder and bleeding the ....

2019-04-02 Thread Jenya Spektor
Graham, Hello again!
The fluid was clear inside the reservoir.
It seem to bind in one place more then in the others.
The wheel does not spin freely.
I don't know if it was like that before I replaced the glass and bled the
breaks.
Thanks !

On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 5:10 PM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> But was the fluid clear in the reservoir before you bled the brakes, the
> original fluid when you unscrewed the lid off the reservoir? Are you sure
> it’s binding and not just resting against the rotor. Is it constant or just
> at a certain point on the rotor? When you anchor the back of the bike down
> so the front wheel is off the ground, does the wheel spin freely?
>
> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 4:33 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>
>> I have not done anything but to drain the cylinder and to replace the
>> glass (followed by replenishing the fluid and bleeding the breaks).
>> The liquid was clear when I bled the break lines.
>> So I am not sure why the slight binding would happen all of a sudden.
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 1:35 PM Graham Rogers 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Brake pads should be loosely resting against the rotors, not binding
>>> them but you might hear that they are slightly resting against the rotor.
>>> Any binding, you need to remove the calipers and pistons and clean them
>>> out. Each caliper has two pistons, two rubber O rings per caliper. If
>>> there’s binding, a thorough cleaning should suffice.
>>> The test is does the front wheel spin freely when lifted off the ground?
>>> If so, you’re good. However what was the brake fluid like before you
>>> replaced the sight glass? Was it dirty, grungy, etc. if it wasn’t pretty
>>> much clear with no crystallization, etc, then assume the calipers and
>>> pistons are in the same state. If so, clean the them
>>>
>>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 1:01 PM Jenya Spektor 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> So i had to replace the sight glass - my old one had just disintegrated
>>>> (which I did and did well at that). I bled the brakes as per the shop
>>>> manual.
>>>> The thing is, NOW the front wheel is a bit sticky - almost feels like
>>>> the break pads really have no gap between the pads and the disk.
>>>> Is there anything else I need to do to ensure that the front breaks are
>>>> sound?
>>>> Please let me know.
>>>>
>>>> Here is what I did.
>>>> 1. Opened the MC and drained most of the break fluid (leaving a bit on
>>>> the bottom).
>>>> 2. Replaced the sight glass, made sure there are no leaks.
>>>> 3. Bled the breaks on both sides (I have a 1983 NH 650 with dual disk
>>>> breaks in front).
>>>> 4. Made sure that the level is firm and when squeezed feels the same
>>>> way on each squeeze/application of the breaks.
>>>>
>>>> Just want to make sure it done right and the breaks will work as
>>>> intended.
>>>> Thank you all,
>>>> jenya
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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>>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> Jenya Spektor
>> 917.202.3080
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Replacing the sight glass on the Master cylinder and bleeding the ....

2019-04-02 Thread Jenya Spektor
I have not done anything but to drain the cylinder and to replace the glass
(followed by replenishing the fluid and bleeding the breaks).
The liquid was clear when I bled the break lines.
So I am not sure why the slight binding would happen all of a sudden.


On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 1:35 PM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> Brake pads should be loosely resting against the rotors, not binding them
> but you might hear that they are slightly resting against the rotor. Any
> binding, you need to remove the calipers and pistons and clean them out.
> Each caliper has two pistons, two rubber O rings per caliper. If there’s
> binding, a thorough cleaning should suffice.
> The test is does the front wheel spin freely when lifted off the ground?
> If so, you’re good. However what was the brake fluid like before you
> replaced the sight glass? Was it dirty, grungy, etc. if it wasn’t pretty
> much clear with no crystallization, etc, then assume the calipers and
> pistons are in the same state. If so, clean the them
>
> On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 1:01 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>
>> So i had to replace the sight glass - my old one had just disintegrated
>> (which I did and did well at that). I bled the brakes as per the shop
>> manual.
>> The thing is, NOW the front wheel is a bit sticky - almost feels like the
>> break pads really have no gap between the pads and the disk.
>> Is there anything else I need to do to ensure that the front breaks are
>> sound?
>> Please let me know.
>>
>> Here is what I did.
>> 1. Opened the MC and drained most of the break fluid (leaving a bit on
>> the bottom).
>> 2. Replaced the sight glass, made sure there are no leaks.
>> 3. Bled the breaks on both sides (I have a 1983 NH 650 with dual disk
>> breaks in front).
>> 4. Made sure that the level is firm and when squeezed feels the same way
>> on each squeeze/application of the breaks.
>>
>> Just want to make sure it done right and the breaks will work as intended.
>> Thank you all,
>> jenya
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
>> email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> To post to this group, send email to nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com.
>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers.
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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> email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>


-- 
Jenya Spektor
917.202.3080

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Replacing the sight glass on the Master cylinder and bleeding the ....

2019-04-02 Thread Jenya Spektor
So i had to replace the sight glass - my old one had just disintegrated 
(which I did and did well at that). I bled the brakes as per the shop 
manual.
The thing is, NOW the front wheel is a bit sticky - almost feels like the 
break pads really have no gap between the pads and the disk.
Is there anything else I need to do to ensure that the front breaks are 
sound?
Please let me know.

Here is what I did.
1. Opened the MC and drained most of the break fluid (leaving a bit on the 
bottom).
2. Replaced the sight glass, made sure there are no leaks.
3. Bled the breaks on both sides (I have a 1983 NH 650 with dual disk 
breaks in front).
4. Made sure that the level is firm and when squeezed feels the same way on 
each squeeze/application of the breaks.

Just want to make sure it done right and the breaks will work as intended.
Thank you all,
jenya

-- 
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"Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
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For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.


Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the

2019-03-21 Thread Jenya Spektor
I did remove the pilot screws. I do not have the compression kit. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 20, 2019, at 9:58 PM, "bobshel...@gmail.com"  
> wrote:
> 
> Did you remove the pilot screws?
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
> On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 8:44 PM, Jenya Spektor
>  wrote:
> Yes I did blow all the holes out with compressed air. The diaphragms are in 
> great shape with no cracks or holes. Right now my pilot screws are at 2 5/8 
> turns out (as per manual). Should I go up to 3-4? And - is there a way to 
> adjust them without taking he carbs off?
> Also, I took off the spark plug - looked ok ( not to carbonized, and not 
> wet). It did smell of gas a lot. The spark is working (on the 1st carb) - it 
> produces a spark ! 
> So I’ll keep running the bike gently hoping that my carbs start to work - all 
> of them as intended.
> Thank you all. 
> 
> Ps - Michael, the bike looks nice!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Mar 20, 2019, at 2:37 PM, Darin Hatton  wrote:
>> 
>> I dig it , nighthawk touring edition 
>> 
>> On Wed, Mar 20, 2019, 2:29 PM mike beatty  wrote:
>> This is what i did to my hawkyou guys like?
>> 
>> On Mar 19, 2019 5:39 PM, "bobshel...@gmail.com"  wrote:
>> 
>> You will definitely need to try some leaning if it's spitting fuel out the 
>> exhaust! That's a 120 jet.
>> 
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>> 
>> On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 2:37 PM, Jenya Spektor
>>  wrote:
>> I got it (the rejetting kit)from carbjetkits.com for the CB650 with air pod 
>> filters. I have not modified anything else on the bike.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Mar 19, 2019, at 9:20 AM, "bobshel...@gmail.com"  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> What size jets did you install?
>>> 
>>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>>> 
>>> On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 7:53 AM, Jenya Spektor
>>>  wrote:
>>> Thanks for that - will persevere...
>>> What about the fact that I have a bluish smoke and a strong smell of 
>>> gasoline coming out of the pipes? Not sure if I had mentioned, but I had 
>>> installed pancake air pods and rejetted the carbs accordingly. While the 
>>> pilot screws are at the factory recommended 2 5/8 out. Should I lean them 
>>> out more?
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>> On Mar 17, 2019, at 9:23 PM, Graham Rogers  
>>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> One carb, you will not be able to adjust, # 3 in your case I think, the 
>>>> one that has the vacuum tube. So that is the one you synch the other three 
>>>> to, whatever it reads. The trick is getting it running fairly well at idle 
>>>> to get a true reading. 
>>>> Yes let it run longer to get #1 running. We’ve all been through what 
>>>> you’re going through, so persist. You can’t synch the carbs with choke 
>>>> open to full unless that means choke ‘off’.
>>>> Check that #1 spark plug, is it wet, black with carbon, white? That will 
>>>> at least tell you what’s going on. If it’s wet, dry it off and try again. 
>>>> One minute with choke operation not long enough, did you try backing the 
>>>> choke off and seeing if that cylinder fires. I’ve fooled around for hours 
>>>> trying to get all cylinders running sometimes. Maybe that one cylinder 
>>>> doesn’t need choke, you just have to experiment in starting procedure a 
>>>> bit. The last Nighthawk I synced all cylinders ended up at 20  but it took 
>>>> a bit of tweaking.
>>>> 
>>>> On Sun, Mar 17, 2019 at 9:09 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>>>> Few more inquiries about syncing. 
>>>> 1. The manual said to have choke open to full - is that correct?
>>>> 2. Where does the needle need to point on the sync gage dial when the carb 
>>>> pressure is correct?
>>>> 
>>>> In general (to my great frustration):
>>>> 1. It’s weird but the damn carbs keep not working at a random order - 
>>>> today the number one is not working(the header is cold) while others are 
>>>> at 70* C after a minute of open choke operation. Should I let it run 
>>>> longer - this is the first time I am starting after a full and thorough 
>>>> clean.
>>>> 2. Should I lean out the pilot screw more (right now is at the 
>>>> factory/manual setting) - the exhaust smells strongly of gasoline.
>>>> Thank you guys!
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Sent fro

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the

2019-03-20 Thread Jenya Spektor
Yes I did blow all the holes out with compressed air. The diaphragms are in 
great shape with no cracks or holes. Right now my pilot screws are at 2 5/8 
turns out (as per manual). Should I go up to 3-4? And - is there a way to 
adjust them without taking he carbs off?
Also, I took off the spark plug - looked ok ( not to carbonized, and not wet). 
It did smell of gas a lot. The spark is working (on the 1st carb) - it produces 
a spark ! 
So I’ll keep running the bike gently hoping that my carbs start to work - all 
of them as intended.
Thank you all. 

Ps - Michael, the bike looks nice!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 20, 2019, at 2:37 PM, Darin Hatton  wrote:
> 
> I dig it , nighthawk touring edition 
> 
>> On Wed, Mar 20, 2019, 2:29 PM mike beatty  wrote:
>> This is what i did to my hawkyou guys like?
>> 
>> On Mar 19, 2019 5:39 PM, "bobshel...@gmail.com"  wrote:
>> 
>> You will definitely need to try some leaning if it's spitting fuel out the 
>> exhaust! That's a 120 jet.
>> 
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>> 
>> On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 2:37 PM, Jenya Spektor
>>  wrote:
>> I got it (the rejetting kit)from carbjetkits.com for the CB650 with air pod 
>> filters. I have not modified anything else on the bike.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Mar 19, 2019, at 9:20 AM, "bobshel...@gmail.com"  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> What size jets did you install?
>>> 
>>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>>> 
>>> On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 7:53 AM, Jenya Spektor
>>>  wrote:
>>> Thanks for that - will persevere...
>>> What about the fact that I have a bluish smoke and a strong smell of 
>>> gasoline coming out of the pipes? Not sure if I had mentioned, but I had 
>>> installed pancake air pods and rejetted the carbs accordingly. While the 
>>> pilot screws are at the factory recommended 2 5/8 out. Should I lean them 
>>> out more?
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>> On Mar 17, 2019, at 9:23 PM, Graham Rogers  
>>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> One carb, you will not be able to adjust, # 3 in your case I think, the 
>>>> one that has the vacuum tube. So that is the one you synch the other three 
>>>> to, whatever it reads. The trick is getting it running fairly well at idle 
>>>> to get a true reading. 
>>>> Yes let it run longer to get #1 running. We’ve all been through what 
>>>> you’re going through, so persist. You can’t synch the carbs with choke 
>>>> open to full unless that means choke ‘off’.
>>>> Check that #1 spark plug, is it wet, black with carbon, white? That will 
>>>> at least tell you what’s going on. If it’s wet, dry it off and try again. 
>>>> One minute with choke operation not long enough, did you try backing the 
>>>> choke off and seeing if that cylinder fires. I’ve fooled around for hours 
>>>> trying to get all cylinders running sometimes. Maybe that one cylinder 
>>>> doesn’t need choke, you just have to experiment in starting procedure a 
>>>> bit. The last Nighthawk I synced all cylinders ended up at 20  but it took 
>>>> a bit of tweaking.
>>>> 
>>>> On Sun, Mar 17, 2019 at 9:09 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>>>> Few more inquiries about syncing. 
>>>> 1. The manual said to have choke open to full - is that correct?
>>>> 2. Where does the needle need to point on the sync gage dial when the carb 
>>>> pressure is correct?
>>>> 
>>>> In general (to my great frustration):
>>>> 1. It’s weird but the damn carbs keep not working at a random order - 
>>>> today the number one is not working(the header is cold) while others are 
>>>> at 70* C after a minute of open choke operation. Should I let it run 
>>>> longer - this is the first time I am starting after a full and thorough 
>>>> clean.
>>>> 2. Should I lean out the pilot screw more (right now is at the 
>>>> factory/manual setting) - the exhaust smells strongly of gasoline.
>>>> Thank you guys!
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> 
>>>>> On Mar 17, 2019, at 1:46 PM, Graham Rogers  
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> I sometimes remove the vacuum tube, sometimes not. I did a 700S Nighthawk 
>>>>> last and just used the connecting adapter to the vacuum tube.
>>>>> 
>>>>> On Sun, Mar 17, 2019 at 1:18 PM Jenya Spektor  
&g

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the

2019-03-19 Thread Jenya Spektor
As you guys had suggested - with with carb cleaner (a gallon jar with a 
basket), everything was blown out with air and all was reassembled as before.


Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 19, 2019, at 9:08 PM, "bobshel...@gmail.com"  
> wrote:
> 
> How did you clean the carbs?
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
> On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 8:00 PM, Jenya Spektor
>  wrote:
> Let me get the carbs to work - 1 is not working and 3 is so so. 
> I’ll follow your advice on getting the carbs to work. Will keep you all 
> updated
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Mar 19, 2019, at 8:41 PM, "bobshel...@gmail.com"  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Did you install the washers? That will add to the problem. You might try 
>> just the washers with the stock jets. That might be best. If you had 4 into 
>> 1 exhaust both might be great. 
>>  
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>> 
>> On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 4:39 PM, bobshel...@gmail.com
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> You will definitely need to try some leaning if it's spitting fuel out the 
>> exhaust! That's a 120 jet.
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>> 
>> On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 2:37 PM, Jenya Spektor
>>  wrote:
>> I got it (the rejetting kit)from carbjetkits.com for the CB650 with air pod 
>> filters. I have not modified anything else on the bike.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Mar 19, 2019, at 9:20 AM, "bobshel...@gmail.com"  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> What size jets did you install?
>>> 
>>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>>> 
>>> On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 7:53 AM, Jenya Spektor
>>>  wrote:
>>> Thanks for that - will persevere...
>>> What about the fact that I have a bluish smoke and a strong smell of 
>>> gasoline coming out of the pipes? Not sure if I had mentioned, but I had 
>>> installed pancake air pods and rejetted the carbs accordingly. While the 
>>> pilot screws are at the factory recommended 2 5/8 out. Should I lean them 
>>> out more?
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>> On Mar 17, 2019, at 9:23 PM, Graham Rogers  
>>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> One carb, you will not be able to adjust, # 3 in your case I think, the 
>>>> one that has the vacuum tube. So that is the one you synch the other three 
>>>> to, whatever it reads. The trick is getting it running fairly well at idle 
>>>> to get a true reading. 
>>>> Yes let it run longer to get #1 running. We’ve all been through what 
>>>> you’re going through, so persist. You can’t synch the carbs with choke 
>>>> open to full unless that means choke ‘off’.
>>>> Check that #1 spark plug, is it wet, black with carbon, white? That will 
>>>> at least tell you what’s going on. If it’s wet, dry it off and try again. 
>>>> One minute with choke operation not long enough, did you try backing the 
>>>> choke off and seeing if that cylinder fires. I’ve fooled around for hours 
>>>> trying to get all cylinders running sometimes. Maybe that one cylinder 
>>>> doesn’t need choke, you just have to experiment in starting procedure a 
>>>> bit. The last Nighthawk I synced all cylinders ended up at 20  but it took 
>>>> a bit of tweaking.
>>>> 
>>>> On Sun, Mar 17, 2019 at 9:09 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>>>> Few more inquiries about syncing. 
>>>> 1. The manual said to have choke open to full - is that correct?
>>>> 2. Where does the needle need to point on the sync gage dial when the carb 
>>>> pressure is correct?
>>>> 
>>>> In general (to my great frustration):
>>>> 1. It’s weird but the damn carbs keep not working at a random order - 
>>>> today the number one is not working(the header is cold) while others are 
>>>> at 70* C after a minute of open choke operation. Should I let it run 
>>>> longer - this is the first time I am starting after a full and thorough 
>>>> clean.
>>>> 2. Should I lean out the pilot screw more (right now is at the 
>>>> factory/manual setting) - the exhaust smells strongly of gasoline.
>>>> Thank you guys!
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> 
>>>>> On Mar 17, 2019, at 1:46 PM, Graham Rogers  
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> I sometimes remove the vacuum tube, sometimes not. I did a 700S Nighthawk 
>>>>> last and just used the

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the

2019-03-19 Thread Jenya Spektor
Will do

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 19, 2019, at 9:02 PM, Graham Rogers  wrote:
> 
> Check the color of your spark plugs, save time and guess work
> 
>> On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 9:00 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>> Let me get the carbs to work - 1 is not working and 3 is so so. 
>> I’ll follow your advice on getting the carbs to work. Will keep you all 
>> updated
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Mar 19, 2019, at 8:41 PM, "bobshel...@gmail.com"  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Did you install the washers? That will add to the problem. You might try 
>>> just the washers with the stock jets. That might be best. If you had 4 into 
>>> 1 exhaust both might be great. 
>>>  
>>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>>> 
>>> On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 4:39 PM, bobshel...@gmail.com
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> You will definitely need to try some leaning if it's spitting fuel out the 
>>> exhaust! That's a 120 jet.
>>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>>> 
>>> On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 2:37 PM, Jenya Spektor
>>>  wrote:
>>> I got it (the rejetting kit)from carbjetkits.com for the CB650 with air pod 
>>> filters. I have not modified anything else on the bike.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>> On Mar 19, 2019, at 9:20 AM, "bobshel...@gmail.com"  
>>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> What size jets did you install?
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>>>> 
>>>> On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 7:53 AM, Jenya Spektor
>>>>  wrote:
>>>> Thanks for that - will persevere...
>>>> What about the fact that I have a bluish smoke and a strong smell of 
>>>> gasoline coming out of the pipes? Not sure if I had mentioned, but I had 
>>>> installed pancake air pods and rejetted the carbs accordingly. While the 
>>>> pilot screws are at the factory recommended 2 5/8 out. Should I lean them 
>>>> out more?
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> 
>>>>> On Mar 17, 2019, at 9:23 PM, Graham Rogers  
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> One carb, you will not be able to adjust, # 3 in your case I think, the 
>>>>> one that has the vacuum tube. So that is the one you synch the other 
>>>>> three to, whatever it reads. The trick is getting it running fairly well 
>>>>> at idle to get a true reading. 
>>>>> Yes let it run longer to get #1 running. We’ve all been through what 
>>>>> you’re going through, so persist. You can’t synch the carbs with choke 
>>>>> open to full unless that means choke ‘off’.
>>>>> Check that #1 spark plug, is it wet, black with carbon, white? That will 
>>>>> at least tell you what’s going on. If it’s wet, dry it off and try again. 
>>>>> One minute with choke operation not long enough, did you try backing the 
>>>>> choke off and seeing if that cylinder fires. I’ve fooled around for hours 
>>>>> trying to get all cylinders running sometimes. Maybe that one cylinder 
>>>>> doesn’t need choke, you just have to experiment in starting procedure a 
>>>>> bit. The last Nighthawk I synced all cylinders ended up at 20  but it 
>>>>> took a bit of tweaking.
>>>>> 
>>>>> On Sun, Mar 17, 2019 at 9:09 PM Jenya Spektor  
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>> Few more inquiries about syncing. 
>>>>> 1. The manual said to have choke open to full - is that correct?
>>>>> 2. Where does the needle need to point on the sync gage dial when the 
>>>>> carb pressure is correct?
>>>>> 
>>>>> In general (to my great frustration):
>>>>> 1. It’s weird but the damn carbs keep not working at a random order - 
>>>>> today the number one is not working(the header is cold) while others are 
>>>>> at 70* C after a minute of open choke operation. Should I let it run 
>>>>> longer - this is the first time I am starting after a full and thorough 
>>>>> clean.
>>>>> 2. Should I lean out the pilot screw more (right now is at the 
>>>>> factory/manual setting) - the exhaust smells strongly of gasoline.
>>>>> Thank you guys!
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Mar 17, 2019, at 1:46 PM, Graham Rogers  
&

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the

2019-03-19 Thread Jenya Spektor
Let me get the carbs to work - 1 is not working and 3 is so so. 
I’ll follow your advice on getting the carbs to work. Will keep you all updated

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 19, 2019, at 8:41 PM, "bobshel...@gmail.com"  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Did you install the washers? That will add to the problem. You might try just 
> the washers with the stock jets. That might be best. If you had 4 into 1 
> exhaust both might be great. 
>  
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
> On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 4:39 PM, bobshel...@gmail.com
>  wrote:
> 
> You will definitely need to try some leaning if it's spitting fuel out the 
> exhaust! That's a 120 jet.
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
> On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 2:37 PM, Jenya Spektor
>  wrote:
> I got it (the rejetting kit)from carbjetkits.com for the CB650 with air pod 
> filters. I have not modified anything else on the bike.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Mar 19, 2019, at 9:20 AM, "bobshel...@gmail.com"  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> What size jets did you install?
>> 
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>> 
>> On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 7:53 AM, Jenya Spektor
>>  wrote:
>> Thanks for that - will persevere...
>> What about the fact that I have a bluish smoke and a strong smell of 
>> gasoline coming out of the pipes? Not sure if I had mentioned, but I had 
>> installed pancake air pods and rejetted the carbs accordingly. While the 
>> pilot screws are at the factory recommended 2 5/8 out. Should I lean them 
>> out more?
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Mar 17, 2019, at 9:23 PM, Graham Rogers  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> One carb, you will not be able to adjust, # 3 in your case I think, the one 
>>> that has the vacuum tube. So that is the one you synch the other three to, 
>>> whatever it reads. The trick is getting it running fairly well at idle to 
>>> get a true reading. 
>>> Yes let it run longer to get #1 running. We’ve all been through what you’re 
>>> going through, so persist. You can’t synch the carbs with choke open to 
>>> full unless that means choke ‘off’.
>>> Check that #1 spark plug, is it wet, black with carbon, white? That will at 
>>> least tell you what’s going on. If it’s wet, dry it off and try again. 
>>> One minute with choke operation not long enough, did you try backing the 
>>> choke off and seeing if that cylinder fires. I’ve fooled around for hours 
>>> trying to get all cylinders running sometimes. Maybe that one cylinder 
>>> doesn’t need choke, you just have to experiment in starting procedure a 
>>> bit. The last Nighthawk I synced all cylinders ended up at 20  but it took 
>>> a bit of tweaking.
>>> 
>>> On Sun, Mar 17, 2019 at 9:09 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>>> Few more inquiries about syncing. 
>>> 1. The manual said to have choke open to full - is that correct?
>>> 2. Where does the needle need to point on the sync gage dial when the carb 
>>> pressure is correct?
>>> 
>>> In general (to my great frustration):
>>> 1. It’s weird but the damn carbs keep not working at a random order - today 
>>> the number one is not working(the header is cold) while others are at 70* C 
>>> after a minute of open choke operation. Should I let it run longer - this 
>>> is the first time I am starting after a full and thorough clean.
>>> 2. Should I lean out the pilot screw more (right now is at the 
>>> factory/manual setting) - the exhaust smells strongly of gasoline.
>>> Thank you guys!
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>> On Mar 17, 2019, at 1:46 PM, Graham Rogers  
>>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> I sometimes remove the vacuum tube, sometimes not. I did a 700S Nighthawk 
>>>> last and just used the connecting adapter to the vacuum tube.
>>>> 
>>>> On Sun, Mar 17, 2019 at 1:18 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>>>> Hey friends!
>>>> So I have cleaned everything, installed them on the bike. All seem to be 
>>>> working (even thought #3 header pipe is not as hot as the others - 
>>>> measured it with the thermometer). Now on to syncing - and a quick 
>>>> question about that. I presume when inserting the brass 
>>>> adapters/extensions into the intake tubes, for the number 3 intake, the 
>>>> vacuum tube needs to be disconnected first? Or is there another place on 
>>>> there? Not sure if the way I worded my question makes sense but I hope it 
>>>> does. Will

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the

2019-03-19 Thread Jenya Spektor
I got it (the rejetting kit)from carbjetkits.com for the CB650 with air pod 
filters. I have not modified anything else on the bike.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 19, 2019, at 9:20 AM, "bobshel...@gmail.com"  
> wrote:
> 
> What size jets did you install?
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
> On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 7:53 AM, Jenya Spektor
>  wrote:
> Thanks for that - will persevere...
> What about the fact that I have a bluish smoke and a strong smell of gasoline 
> coming out of the pipes? Not sure if I had mentioned, but I had installed 
> pancake air pods and rejetted the carbs accordingly. While the pilot screws 
> are at the factory recommended 2 5/8 out. Should I lean them out more?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Mar 17, 2019, at 9:23 PM, Graham Rogers  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> One carb, you will not be able to adjust, # 3 in your case I think, the one 
>> that has the vacuum tube. So that is the one you synch the other three to, 
>> whatever it reads. The trick is getting it running fairly well at idle to 
>> get a true reading. 
>> Yes let it run longer to get #1 running. We’ve all been through what you’re 
>> going through, so persist. You can’t synch the carbs with choke open to full 
>> unless that means choke ‘off’.
>> Check that #1 spark plug, is it wet, black with carbon, white? That will at 
>> least tell you what’s going on. If it’s wet, dry it off and try again. 
>> One minute with choke operation not long enough, did you try backing the 
>> choke off and seeing if that cylinder fires. I’ve fooled around for hours 
>> trying to get all cylinders running sometimes. Maybe that one cylinder 
>> doesn’t need choke, you just have to experiment in starting procedure a bit. 
>> The last Nighthawk I synced all cylinders ended up at 20  but it took a bit 
>> of tweaking.
>> 
>> On Sun, Mar 17, 2019 at 9:09 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>> Few more inquiries about syncing. 
>> 1. The manual said to have choke open to full - is that correct?
>> 2. Where does the needle need to point on the sync gage dial when the carb 
>> pressure is correct?
>> 
>> In general (to my great frustration):
>> 1. It’s weird but the damn carbs keep not working at a random order - today 
>> the number one is not working(the header is cold) while others are at 70* C 
>> after a minute of open choke operation. Should I let it run longer - this is 
>> the first time I am starting after a full and thorough clean.
>> 2. Should I lean out the pilot screw more (right now is at the 
>> factory/manual setting) - the exhaust smells strongly of gasoline.
>> Thank you guys!
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Mar 17, 2019, at 1:46 PM, Graham Rogers  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I sometimes remove the vacuum tube, sometimes not. I did a 700S Nighthawk 
>>> last and just used the connecting adapter to the vacuum tube.
>>> 
>>> On Sun, Mar 17, 2019 at 1:18 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>>> Hey friends!
>>> So I have cleaned everything, installed them on the bike. All seem to be 
>>> working (even thought #3 header pipe is not as hot as the others - measured 
>>> it with the thermometer). Now on to syncing - and a quick question about 
>>> that. I presume when inserting the brass adapters/extensions into the 
>>> intake tubes, for the number 3 intake, the vacuum tube needs to be 
>>> disconnected first? Or is there another place on there? Not sure if the way 
>>> I worded my question makes sense but I hope it does. Will snap a few pics 
>>> to illustrate later on. Thanks all.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>> On Jan 29, 2019, at 2:50 PM, Arthur Sheller  wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> If you plan on doing this great, blow out every hole you can find after 
>>>> cleaning and make sure the floats are at 18.5 mm. Good luck!!
>>>> 
>>>> On Tue, Jan 29, 2019, 1:16 PM Jenya Spektor >>> Hey - so i got the carbs off (actually I took off the rubber boots from 
>>>> the air filter box) and the rest was super easy.
>>>> Here is the state of the carbs as they are - i have not cleaned anything 
>>>> yet - seems very clean.
>>>> The rubber gaskets are a gonner thought - all plasticky and tough. I  have 
>>>> changed the O-rings and the gaskets on the bowls.
>>>> Keeping my fingers crossed as I am putting it back together.
>>>> Let me know (looking at the pics) if there still a need to soak anything 
>>>> in the carb cleaner.
>>>> Thanks 

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the blue.

2019-03-19 Thread Jenya Spektor
Thanks for that - will persevere...
What about the fact that I have a bluish smoke and a strong smell of gasoline 
coming out of the pipes? Not sure if I had mentioned, but I had installed 
pancake air pods and rejetted the carbs accordingly. While the pilot screws are 
at the factory recommended 2 5/8 out. Should I lean them out more?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 17, 2019, at 9:23 PM, Graham Rogers  wrote:
> 
> One carb, you will not be able to adjust, # 3 in your case I think, the one 
> that has the vacuum tube. So that is the one you synch the other three to, 
> whatever it reads. The trick is getting it running fairly well at idle to get 
> a true reading. 
> Yes let it run longer to get #1 running. We’ve all been through what you’re 
> going through, so persist. You can’t synch the carbs with choke open to full 
> unless that means choke ‘off’.
> Check that #1 spark plug, is it wet, black with carbon, white? That will at 
> least tell you what’s going on. If it’s wet, dry it off and try again. 
> One minute with choke operation not long enough, did you try backing the 
> choke off and seeing if that cylinder fires. I’ve fooled around for hours 
> trying to get all cylinders running sometimes. Maybe that one cylinder 
> doesn’t need choke, you just have to experiment in starting procedure a bit. 
> The last Nighthawk I synced all cylinders ended up at 20  but it took a bit 
> of tweaking.
> 
>> On Sun, Mar 17, 2019 at 9:09 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>> Few more inquiries about syncing. 
>> 1. The manual said to have choke open to full - is that correct?
>> 2. Where does the needle need to point on the sync gage dial when the carb 
>> pressure is correct?
>> 
>> In general (to my great frustration):
>> 1. It’s weird but the damn carbs keep not working at a random order - today 
>> the number one is not working(the header is cold) while others are at 70* C 
>> after a minute of open choke operation. Should I let it run longer - this is 
>> the first time I am starting after a full and thorough clean.
>> 2. Should I lean out the pilot screw more (right now is at the 
>> factory/manual setting) - the exhaust smells strongly of gasoline.
>> Thank you guys!
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Mar 17, 2019, at 1:46 PM, Graham Rogers  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I sometimes remove the vacuum tube, sometimes not. I did a 700S Nighthawk 
>>> last and just used the connecting adapter to the vacuum tube.
>>> 
>>>> On Sun, Mar 17, 2019 at 1:18 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>>>> Hey friends!
>>>> So I have cleaned everything, installed them on the bike. All seem to be 
>>>> working (even thought #3 header pipe is not as hot as the others - 
>>>> measured it with the thermometer). Now on to syncing - and a quick 
>>>> question about that. I presume when inserting the brass 
>>>> adapters/extensions into the intake tubes, for the number 3 intake, the 
>>>> vacuum tube needs to be disconnected first? Or is there another place on 
>>>> there? Not sure if the way I worded my question makes sense but I hope it 
>>>> does. Will snap a few pics to illustrate later on. Thanks all.
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> 
>>>>> On Jan 29, 2019, at 2:50 PM, Arthur Sheller  wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> If you plan on doing this great, blow out every hole you can find after 
>>>>> cleaning and make sure the floats are at 18.5 mm. Good luck!!
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Tue, Jan 29, 2019, 1:16 PM Jenya Spektor >>>>> Hey - so i got the carbs off (actually I took off the rubber boots from 
>>>>>> the air filter box) and the rest was super easy.
>>>>>> Here is the state of the carbs as they are - i have not cleaned anything 
>>>>>> yet - seems very clean.
>>>>>> The rubber gaskets are a gonner thought - all plasticky and tough. I  
>>>>>> have changed the O-rings and the gaskets on the bowls.
>>>>>> Keeping my fingers crossed as I am putting it back together.
>>>>>> Let me know (looking at the pics) if there still a need to soak anything 
>>>>>> in the carb cleaner.
>>>>>> Thanks to all - I'll keep you posted on the progress.
>>>>>> Jenya
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the blue.

2019-03-17 Thread Jenya Spektor
Few more inquiries about syncing. 
1. The manual said to have choke open to full - is that correct?
2. Where does the needle need to point on the sync gage dial when the carb 
pressure is correct?

In general (to my great frustration):
1. It’s weird but the damn carbs keep not working at a random order - today the 
number one is not working(the header is cold) while others are at 70* C after a 
minute of open choke operation. Should I let it run longer - this is the first 
time I am starting after a full and thorough clean.
2. Should I lean out the pilot screw more (right now is at the factory/manual 
setting) - the exhaust smells strongly of gasoline.
Thank you guys!


Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 17, 2019, at 1:46 PM, Graham Rogers  wrote:
> 
> I sometimes remove the vacuum tube, sometimes not. I did a 700S Nighthawk 
> last and just used the connecting adapter to the vacuum tube.
> 
>> On Sun, Mar 17, 2019 at 1:18 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>> Hey friends!
>> So I have cleaned everything, installed them on the bike. All seem to be 
>> working (even thought #3 header pipe is not as hot as the others - measured 
>> it with the thermometer). Now on to syncing - and a quick question about 
>> that. I presume when inserting the brass adapters/extensions into the intake 
>> tubes, for the number 3 intake, the vacuum tube needs to be disconnected 
>> first? Or is there another place on there? Not sure if the way I worded my 
>> question makes sense but I hope it does. Will snap a few pics to illustrate 
>> later on. Thanks all.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jan 29, 2019, at 2:50 PM, Arthur Sheller  wrote:
>>> 
>>> If you plan on doing this great, blow out every hole you can find after 
>>> cleaning and make sure the floats are at 18.5 mm. Good luck!!
>>> 
>>>> On Tue, Jan 29, 2019, 1:16 PM Jenya Spektor >>> Hey - so i got the carbs off (actually I took off the rubber boots from 
>>>> the air filter box) and the rest was super easy.
>>>> Here is the state of the carbs as they are - i have not cleaned anything 
>>>> yet - seems very clean.
>>>> The rubber gaskets are a gonner thought - all plasticky and tough. I  have 
>>>> changed the O-rings and the gaskets on the bowls.
>>>> Keeping my fingers crossed as I am putting it back together.
>>>> Let me know (looking at the pics) if there still a need to soak anything 
>>>> in the carb cleaner.
>>>> Thanks to all - I'll keep you posted on the progress.
>>>> Jenya
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> -- 
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>>>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>>>> email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>>> To post to this group, send email to nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com.
>>>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers.
>>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> -- 
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>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
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>> 
>> -- 
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> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the blue.

2019-03-17 Thread Jenya Spektor
Hey friends!
So I have cleaned everything, installed them on the bike. All seem to be 
working (even thought #3 header pipe is not as hot as the others - measured it 
with the thermometer). Now on to syncing - and a quick question about that. I 
presume when inserting the brass adapters/extensions into the intake tubes, for 
the number 3 intake, the vacuum tube needs to be disconnected first? Or is 
there another place on there? Not sure if the way I worded my question makes 
sense but I hope it does. Will snap a few pics to illustrate later on. Thanks 
all.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 29, 2019, at 2:50 PM, Arthur Sheller  wrote:
> 
> If you plan on doing this great, blow out every hole you can find after 
> cleaning and make sure the floats are at 18.5 mm. Good luck!!
> 
>> On Tue, Jan 29, 2019, 1:16 PM Jenya Spektor > Hey - so i got the carbs off (actually I took off the rubber boots from the 
>> air filter box) and the rest was super easy.
>> Here is the state of the carbs as they are - i have not cleaned anything yet 
>> - seems very clean.
>> The rubber gaskets are a gonner thought - all plasticky and tough. I  have 
>> changed the O-rings and the gaskets on the bowls.
>> Keeping my fingers crossed as I am putting it back together.
>> Let me know (looking at the pics) if there still a need to soak anything in 
>> the carb cleaner.
>> Thanks to all - I'll keep you posted on the progress.
>> Jenya
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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>> email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Carbs clogged...again??

2019-03-15 Thread Jenya Spektor
Arthur, 
Will these filter fit my 1983 650? And if so, what is the best way to 
connect them and where do I tuck them in? The space is pretty tight from 
the fuel outlet to the carb fuel intake plastic nozzle?
Thanks, Jenya



On Wednesday, March 6, 2019 at 11:47:00 AM UTC-5, Arthur R (Bob) Sheller 
wrote:
>
> Honda Fuel Filters
>
> On Mon, Mar 4, 2019, 10:18 PM Holger Selover-Stephan <
> hol...@shadowbrush.com > wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> My post carb clean bliss lasted 40 miles. Back to the before-behavior of 
>> needing choke to run, and idling at 3k after the engine warmed up. I guess 
>> it could be rust in the tank. There was some reddish residue in one carb, 
>> but the others had none. 
>>
>> Is there anything else that could cause this behavior:
>>
>> Cold engine, full choke, starts right up
>> Warm engine: needs full choke and idles at 3k-4k. The idle screw I had 
>> set to around 1k when the engine was running fine after the carb cleaning. 
>>
>> The only other thing I did was adding an inline fuel filter. I could take 
>> that out for a test. 
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Holger
>>
>> -- 
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>> .
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>>
>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the

2019-03-04 Thread Jenya Spektor
Since it’s plastic - soapy water and dry them out after? Or should I just leave 
them be?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 4, 2019, at 2:55 PM, Bob Sheller  wrote:
> 
> What are you soaking them in?
> 
>> On Mon, Mar 4, 2019 at 1:52 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>> Hey guys - I am about to clean the carbs again - do I have to also wipe down 
>> the vacuum cylinder along with soaking and cleaning all the brass parts? Let 
>> me know please.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Feb 18, 2019, at 2:57 PM, Darin Hatton  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Might I add to pikes post - LOTS of compressed air after soaking. Make sure 
>>> you can see light thru all jets and emulsion tubes before re-installing
>>> 
>>>> On Mon, Feb 18, 2019, 8:10 AM 'Pike' via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! 
>>>>  wrote:
>>>> Not sure exactly how you are cleaning your carbs but soaking the main 
>>>> jets,idle jets,float pins,float bowls with the drains removed in a gallon 
>>>> can of  carb vat is the best way  to clean carbs in my opinion.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Feb 18, 2019, at 6:33 AM, Darin Hatton  wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> I'm with graham.  If you have spark on those 2 cylinders clean carbs 
>>>>> again and check compression on those cylinders while carbs are off if you 
>>>>> haven’t done so. Good luck
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Sun, Feb 17, 2019, 8:45 PM Graham Rogers  
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>  Also check for vacuum leaks, vacuum tube screws in securely, pet cock 
>>>>>> vacuum tube not leaking. Spray starting fluid around carbs while bike is 
>>>>>> running, increase in revs indicates vacuum leak
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Feb 17, 2019, at 8:23 PM, Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 1. How to check for spark?
>>>>>>> 2. Float seem to be right - 18mm
>>>>>>> 3. This is he second time putting them together- previously only #4 did 
>>>>>>> not work (after I cleaned them initially). 
>>>>>>> 4. I only run the engine for 2 min or so before checking the temp.
>>>>>>> 5. There was a hissing (almost like a fast hiss) from one of them while 
>>>>>>> they were working.
>>>>>>> 6. I did not connect the rubber air intake boots - the carbs have air 
>>>>>>> filters on them.
>>>>>>> I think I covered it all. Thanks again friends! J
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Feb 17, 2019, at 8:11 PM, Arthur Sheller  
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Was the float height in specs?
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> On Sun, Feb 17, 2019, 6:56 PM Jenya Spektor >>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>> So cleaned the carbs, changed all the  rubber and installed it back. 
>>>>>>>>> Number 1 and 3 are not working (the exhaust headers are cold to 
>>>>>>>>> touch). What should I do? Thanks 
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> On Jan 31, 2019, at 5:45 PM, "bobshel...@gmail.com" 
>>>>>>>>>>  wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Is that the one that's on this thread?
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> On Thu, Jan 31, 2019 at 4:41 PM, Darin Hatton
>>>>>>>>>>  wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> Hate to see a fellow honda lover trying to use a Clymer manual ; )
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> On Thu, Jan 31, 2019, 5:39 PM Arthur Sheller  
>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> If he said he didn't have one I was going to tell him. Good job 
>>>>>>>>>> Darin!
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> On Thu, Jan 31, 2019, 4:37 PM Darin Hatton >>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>&g

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the

2019-03-04 Thread Jenya Spektor
Hey guys - I am about to clean the carbs again - do I have to also wipe down 
the vacuum cylinder along with soaking and cleaning all the brass parts? Let me 
know please.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 18, 2019, at 2:57 PM, Darin Hatton  wrote:
> 
> Might I add to pikes post - LOTS of compressed air after soaking. Make sure 
> you can see light thru all jets and emulsion tubes before re-installing
> 
>> On Mon, Feb 18, 2019, 8:10 AM 'Pike' via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! 
>>  wrote:
>> Not sure exactly how you are cleaning your carbs but soaking the main 
>> jets,idle jets,float pins,float bowls with the drains removed in a gallon 
>> can of  carb vat is the best way  to clean carbs in my opinion.
>> 
>> 
>>> On Feb 18, 2019, at 6:33 AM, Darin Hatton  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I'm with graham.  If you have spark on those 2 cylinders clean carbs again 
>>> and check compression on those cylinders while carbs are off if you haven’t 
>>> done so. Good luck
>>> 
>>>> On Sun, Feb 17, 2019, 8:45 PM Graham Rogers  
>>>> wrote:
>>>>  Also check for vacuum leaks, vacuum tube screws in securely, pet cock 
>>>> vacuum tube not leaking. Spray starting fluid around carbs while bike is 
>>>> running, increase in revs indicates vacuum leak
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>> 
>>>>> On Feb 17, 2019, at 8:23 PM, Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> 1. How to check for spark?
>>>>> 2. Float seem to be right - 18mm
>>>>> 3. This is he second time putting them together- previously only #4 did 
>>>>> not work (after I cleaned them initially). 
>>>>> 4. I only run the engine for 2 min or so before checking the temp.
>>>>> 5. There was a hissing (almost like a fast hiss) from one of them while 
>>>>> they were working.
>>>>> 6. I did not connect the rubber air intake boots - the carbs have air 
>>>>> filters on them.
>>>>> I think I covered it all. Thanks again friends! J
>>>>> 
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Feb 17, 2019, at 8:11 PM, Arthur Sheller  wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Was the float height in specs?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Sun, Feb 17, 2019, 6:56 PM Jenya Spektor >>>>>> So cleaned the carbs, changed all the  rubber and installed it back. 
>>>>>>> Number 1 and 3 are not working (the exhaust headers are cold to touch). 
>>>>>>> What should I do? Thanks 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Jan 31, 2019, at 5:45 PM, "bobshel...@gmail.com" 
>>>>>>>>  wrote:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Is that the one that's on this thread?
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Thu, Jan 31, 2019 at 4:41 PM, Darin Hatton
>>>>>>>>  wrote:
>>>>>>>> Hate to see a fellow honda lover trying to use a Clymer manual ; )
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Thu, Jan 31, 2019, 5:39 PM Arthur Sheller  
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>> If he said he didn't have one I was going to tell him. Good job Darin!
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Thu, Jan 31, 2019, 4:37 PM Darin Hatton >>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>> Hey jenya, I didn't see anyone recommend you to a free honda factory 
>>>>>>>> service manual? Manualslib.com is where I downloaded and printed mine 
>>>>>>>> from. 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>>>>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>>>>>>> an email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>>>>> To post to this group, send email to nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com.
>>>>>>>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers.
>>>>>>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>>>>>

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the

2019-02-17 Thread Jenya Spektor
1. How to check for spark?
2. Float seem to be right - 18mm
3. This is he second time putting them together- previously only #4 did not 
work (after I cleaned them initially). 
4. I only run the engine for 2 min or so before checking the temp.
5. There was a hissing (almost like a fast hiss) from one of them while they 
were working.
6. I did not connect the rubber air intake boots - the carbs have air filters 
on them.
I think I covered it all. Thanks again friends! J

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 17, 2019, at 8:11 PM, Arthur Sheller  wrote:
> 
> Was the float height in specs?
> 
>> On Sun, Feb 17, 2019, 6:56 PM Jenya Spektor > So cleaned the carbs, changed all the  rubber and installed it back. Number 
>> 1 and 3 are not working (the exhaust headers are cold to touch). What should 
>> I do? Thanks 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jan 31, 2019, at 5:45 PM, "bobshel...@gmail.com"  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Is that the one that's on this thread?
>>> 
>>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>>> 
>>> On Thu, Jan 31, 2019 at 4:41 PM, Darin Hatton
>>>  wrote:
>>> Hate to see a fellow honda lover trying to use a Clymer manual ; )
>>> 
>>> On Thu, Jan 31, 2019, 5:39 PM Arthur Sheller  wrote:
>>> If he said he didn't have one I was going to tell him. Good job Darin!
>>> 
>>> On Thu, Jan 31, 2019, 4:37 PM Darin Hatton >> Hey jenya, I didn't see anyone recommend you to a free honda factory 
>>> service manual? Manualslib.com is where I downloaded and printed mine from. 
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>>> email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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>>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers.
>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>> -- 
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>>> 
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>> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the

2019-02-17 Thread Jenya Spektor
So cleaned the carbs, changed all the  rubber and installed it back. Number 1 
and 3 are not working (the exhaust headers are cold to touch). What should I 
do? Thanks 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 31, 2019, at 5:45 PM, "bobshel...@gmail.com"  
> wrote:
> 
> Is that the one that's on this thread?
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
> On Thu, Jan 31, 2019 at 4:41 PM, Darin Hatton
>  wrote:
> Hate to see a fellow honda lover trying to use a Clymer manual ; )
> 
> On Thu, Jan 31, 2019, 5:39 PM Arthur Sheller  wrote:
> If he said he didn't have one I was going to tell him. Good job Darin!
> 
> On Thu, Jan 31, 2019, 4:37 PM Darin Hatton  Hey jenya, I didn't see anyone recommend you to a free honda factory service 
> manual? Manualslib.com is where I downloaded and printed mine from. 
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 85 hawk to cafe racer

2019-02-07 Thread Jenya Spektor
Got it - *without rejetting thought,* will it hurt the carbs or the motor
if the air filters are different? Or does it affect the performance only?


On Thu, Feb 7, 2019 at 7:58 PM 'roidfingers' via Nighthawk Motorcycle
Lovers!  wrote:

> Carbs are all about the air intake and the exhaust output through the
> motor. If you want to keep the OEM then no change. If you go different
> filters and chopped exhaust as mine is then yes. If you change  oem airbox
> to anything else and the exhaust, it all makes a difference on your jets
> and on ur pilot screws. Yes its an aftermarket fuse box. Probably 10 bucks.
> Air shocks was easy. I measured the stock travel with wheel of the ground
> and decided I wanted to go with a longer shock and slide the front forks to
> level the bike out.
>
> On Thursday, February 7, 2019 at 5:14:49 PM UTC-6, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>>
>> I am a novice as you can tell. Trying to learn more about the build - is
>> rejetting essential or will the carbs be damaged if the stock jets stay on?
>> Leaning out the pilot screws - does it mean unscrewing them after they had
>> been lightly seated? More questions - did you need anything special to
>> install the new air shocks? Or did the lot from fny had everything you
>> needed? The fuse box - I presume you moved from the front to the back -
>> this looks like an aftermarket piece. I do appreciate your educating me on
>> this. I love the way your bike looks and am hoping to get mine to be
>> similar. Best, J
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Feb 7, 2019, at 4:57 PM, 'roidfingers' via Nighthawk Motorcycle
>> Lovers!  wrote:
>>
>> This is the battery. I went with the smallest I could find, with enogh CC
>> amps and at a good price. There are smaller ones out there if you don't
>> mind paying 200 ++.
>> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ASMWMW4/ref=psdc_404722011_t3_B0131FZKW8 .
>> Yes I had to rejet. I went to this website and got them. They have a menu
>> thing that you put your make model year bike in and then it ask's you about
>> your set up and will then tell you what to buy. Worked out good for me.
>> Still need to sync the carbs but it sounds great. However I haven't rode it
>> yet. May have to tweek the fuel/air screws a little.
>> http://carbjetkits.com/bikes-with-jet-kit-calculator.html.
>>
>> On Thursday, February 7, 2019 at 11:58:10 AM UTC-6, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>>>
>>> Thank you for that - I have some more questions - will send you them as
>>> I look through every picture and try to see what I don’t know understand.
>>> My first question would be the brand of RE battery, and are there any
>>> adjustments to the carbs i need to do if I were to switch to pancake air
>>> filters like on your bike.
>>> As for everything else - I would be really scared to touch the wiring -
>>> but that’s just me... I think it might be easier than I think it is. Thanks
>>> for your pictures and your time Jenya
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Feb 3, 2019, at 2:00 PM, 'roidfingers' via Nighthawk Motorcycle
>>> Lovers!  wrote:
>>>
>>> Ok , here are the pics. Let me know if you have any questions
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, January 30, 2019 at 9:46:17 AM UTC-6, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I was talking about the plastic enclosure that holds the stock air
>>>> filter. It seems (from the pics) that you had removed it and replaced it
>>>> with something else. If so, did you follow some kind of plans to house all
>>>> the fuses and the battery into the box under the seat? It would be great to
>>>> see more pictures on how everything is packed under the seat and how all
>>>> the wiring and all the connectors from under the left cover are arranged.
>>>> When you have a chance. Also, what battery are you using? Is it the same
>>>> size as the stock? or did you turn it on it's side to fit in that space?
>>>> Thanks in advance,
>>>> Jenya
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Tue, Jan 29, 2019 at 7:50 PM 'roidfingers' via Nighthawk Motorcycle
>>>> Lovers!  wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Don't really understand your question. I'm using same style intakes
>>>>> from carb to motor. I rejetted my carbs for the lack of exhaust back
>>>>> pressure and more air intake. Lean out the air/fuel mixture screw a 
>>>>> little.
>>>>> (pilot screw) . That's bout it. What else can I help you with? Be glad to.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tuesday, January 2

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 85 hawk to cafe racer

2019-02-07 Thread Jenya Spektor
I am a novice as you can tell. Trying to learn more about the build - is 
rejetting essential or will the carbs be damaged if the stock jets stay on? 
Leaning out the pilot screws - does it mean unscrewing them after they had been 
lightly seated? More questions - did you need anything special to install the 
new air shocks? Or did the lot from fny had everything you needed? The fuse box 
- I presume you moved from the front to the back - this looks like an 
aftermarket piece. I do appreciate your educating me on this. I love the way 
your bike looks and am hoping to get mine to be similar. Best, J

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 7, 2019, at 4:57 PM, 'roidfingers' via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! 
>  wrote:
> 
> This is the battery. I went with the smallest I could find, with enogh CC 
> amps and at a good price. There are smaller ones out there if you don't mind 
> paying 200 ++.
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ASMWMW4/ref=psdc_404722011_t3_B0131FZKW8 . Yes I 
> had to rejet. I went to this website and got them. They have a menu thing 
> that you put your make model year bike in and then it ask's you about your 
> set up and will then tell you what to buy. Worked out good for me. Still need 
> to sync the carbs but it sounds great. However I haven't rode it yet. May 
> have to tweek the fuel/air screws a little. 
> http://carbjetkits.com/bikes-with-jet-kit-calculator.html.
> 
>> On Thursday, February 7, 2019 at 11:58:10 AM UTC-6, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>> Thank you for that - I have some more questions - will send you them as I 
>> look through every picture and try to see what I don’t know understand. My 
>> first question would be the brand of RE battery, and are there any 
>> adjustments to the carbs i need to do if I were to switch to pancake air 
>> filters like on your bike.
>> As for everything else - I would be really scared to touch the wiring - but 
>> that’s just me... I think it might be easier than I think it is. Thanks for 
>> your pictures and your time Jenya
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Feb 3, 2019, at 2:00 PM, 'roidfingers' via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Ok , here are the pics. Let me know if you have any questions
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Wednesday, January 30, 2019 at 9:46:17 AM UTC-6, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>>>> I was talking about the plastic enclosure that holds the stock air filter. 
>>>> It seems (from the pics) that you had removed it and replaced it with 
>>>> something else. If so, did you follow some kind of plans to house all the 
>>>> fuses and the battery into the box under the seat? It would be great to 
>>>> see more pictures on how everything is packed under the seat and how all 
>>>> the wiring and all the connectors from under the left cover are arranged. 
>>>> When you have a chance. Also, what battery are you using? Is it the same 
>>>> size as the stock? or did you turn it on it's side to fit in that space?
>>>> Thanks in advance,
>>>> Jenya
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Tue, Jan 29, 2019 at 7:50 PM 'roidfingers' via Nighthawk Motorcycle 
>>>>> Lovers!  wrote:
>>>>> Don't really understand your question. I'm using same style intakes from 
>>>>> carb to motor. I rejetted my carbs for the lack of exhaust back pressure 
>>>>> and more air intake. Lean out the air/fuel mixture screw a little. (pilot 
>>>>> screw) . That's bout it. What else can I help you with? Be glad to.
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Tuesday, January 29, 2019 at 2:51:20 PM UTC-6, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>>>>>> Also, what did you use instead of an air box - there are bunch of things 
>>>>>> that fit on it on both sides.
>>>>>> Thanks
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Sat, Jan 26, 2019 at 7:48 AM Jenya Spektor  
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>> Thank you! I will measure the diameter of the air intake side of the 
>>>>>>> carbs. JS
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Jan 25, 2019, at 8:01 PM, 'roidfingers' via Nighthawk Motorcycle 
>>>>>>>> Lovers!  wrote:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Want to say they were 54mm. But just measure to be sure. I used my 
>>>>>>>> calipers.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 7:00:17 PM UTC-6, roidfingers

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 85 hawk to cafe racer

2019-02-07 Thread Jenya Spektor
Thank you for that - I have some more questions - will send you them as I look 
through every picture and try to see what I don’t know understand. My first 
question would be the brand of RE battery, and are there any adjustments to the 
carbs i need to do if I were to switch to pancake air filters like on your bike.
As for everything else - I would be really scared to touch the wiring - but 
that’s just me... I think it might be easier than I think it is. Thanks for 
your pictures and your time Jenya

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 3, 2019, at 2:00 PM, 'roidfingers' via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! 
>  wrote:
> 
> Ok , here are the pics. Let me know if you have any questions
> 
> 
> 
>> On Wednesday, January 30, 2019 at 9:46:17 AM UTC-6, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>> I was talking about the plastic enclosure that holds the stock air filter. 
>> It seems (from the pics) that you had removed it and replaced it with 
>> something else. If so, did you follow some kind of plans to house all the 
>> fuses and the battery into the box under the seat? It would be great to see 
>> more pictures on how everything is packed under the seat and how all the 
>> wiring and all the connectors from under the left cover are arranged. When 
>> you have a chance. Also, what battery are you using? Is it the same size as 
>> the stock? or did you turn it on it's side to fit in that space?
>> Thanks in advance,
>> Jenya
>> 
>> 
>>> On Tue, Jan 29, 2019 at 7:50 PM 'roidfingers' via Nighthawk Motorcycle 
>>> Lovers!  wrote:
>>> Don't really understand your question. I'm using same style intakes from 
>>> carb to motor. I rejetted my carbs for the lack of exhaust back pressure 
>>> and more air intake. Lean out the air/fuel mixture screw a little. (pilot 
>>> screw) . That's bout it. What else can I help you with? Be glad to.
>>> 
>>>> On Tuesday, January 29, 2019 at 2:51:20 PM UTC-6, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>>>> Also, what did you use instead of an air box - there are bunch of things 
>>>> that fit on it on both sides.
>>>> Thanks
>>>> 
>>>>> On Sat, Jan 26, 2019 at 7:48 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>>>>> Thank you! I will measure the diameter of the air intake side of the 
>>>>> carbs. JS
>>>>> 
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Jan 25, 2019, at 8:01 PM, 'roidfingers' via Nighthawk Motorcycle 
>>>>>> Lovers!  wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Want to say they were 54mm. But just measure to be sure. I used my 
>>>>>> calipers.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 7:00:17 PM UTC-6, roidfingers wrote:
>>>>>>> Got them here. Only thing that would fit with middle frame bar down the 
>>>>>>> center.
>>>>>>> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-Stainless-Ring-Motorcycle-Air-Filter-32MM-35MM-38MM-48MM-54MM-60MM-Cleaner-For-SR400-CB550/32838679542.html?spm=2114.search0302.3.34.41a66e2eZTEFLe_ab_test=searchweb0_0%2Csearchweb201602_0_10130_10152_10151_531_315_10618_10059_10696_10084_100031_10083_10547_10624_10546_10623_10307_10548_10341_10065_10340_10068_10343_10342_10103_10620_10344_10325_10545_10622_10324_10621%2Csearchweb201603_0%2CppcSwitch_0_pvid=a83f2238-2644-4047-a5bb-ba5c5cd18d8e_expid=a83f2238-2644-4047-a5bb-ba5c5cd18d8e-4
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 3:34:24 PM UTC-6, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>>>>>>>> What brand/size air filters are you using for this build?
>>>>>>>> Thanks
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> On Monday, January 14, 2019 at 6:48:06 PM UTC-5, roidfingers wrote:
>>>>>>>>> Got the carb supports on today and the air filters. Didn't have any 
>>>>>>>>> gas. Sprained a bit of brake cleaner in there. Been sitting for 4 
>>>>>>>>> months. She fired right up for a few seconds. I'm waiting on a new 
>>>>>>>>> petcock. But will try fresh gas tomorrow. Gonna have to get some 
>>>>>>>>> mufflers. Wow. just two foot of pipe. All four. Synk the carbs and 
>>>>>>>>> the start on front end.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the

2019-01-31 Thread Jenya Spektor
One more thing - not directly related but... my throttle cables are a bit 
sticky. So I used the ‘drislide’ bike aid oil to live the inside of the cables. 
They would work fine for a few rides and then the throttle handle would become 
sticky again. Is there a trick of cleaning them out with something else? Or is 
this it for them? Let me know - I would like to explore all possible solutions 
before a go changing the two cables. Best, Jenya
PS - the throttle ‘linkage’ on the carb itself has a strong pull and the spring 
is at 100% or so it seems.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 30, 2019, at 7:45 PM, Tommy Hill  wrote:
> 
> That’s it, Jenya!!
> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 85 hawk to cafe racer

2019-01-30 Thread Jenya Spektor
I was talking about the plastic enclosure that holds the stock air filter.
It seems (from the pics) that you had removed it and replaced it with
something else. If so, did you follow some kind of plans to house all the
fuses and the battery into the box under the seat? It would be great to see
more pictures on how everything is packed under the seat and how all the
wiring and all the connectors from under the left cover are arranged. When
you have a chance. Also, what battery are you using? Is it the same size as
the stock? or did you turn it on it's side to fit in that space?
Thanks in advance,
Jenya


On Tue, Jan 29, 2019 at 7:50 PM 'roidfingers' via Nighthawk Motorcycle
Lovers!  wrote:

> Don't really understand your question. I'm using same style intakes from
> carb to motor. I rejetted my carbs for the lack of exhaust back pressure
> and more air intake. Lean out the air/fuel mixture screw a little. (pilot
> screw) . That's bout it. What else can I help you with? Be glad to.
>
> On Tuesday, January 29, 2019 at 2:51:20 PM UTC-6, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>>
>> Also, what did you use instead of an air box - there are bunch of things
>> that fit on it on both sides.
>> Thanks
>>
>> On Sat, Jan 26, 2019 at 7:48 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>>
>>> Thank you! I will measure the diameter of the air intake side of the
>>> carbs. JS
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Jan 25, 2019, at 8:01 PM, 'roidfingers' via Nighthawk Motorcycle
>>> Lovers!  wrote:
>>>
>>> Want to say they were 54mm. But just measure to be sure. I used my
>>> calipers.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 7:00:17 PM UTC-6, roidfingers wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Got them here. Only thing that would fit with middle frame bar down the
>>>> center.
>>>>
>>>> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-Stainless-Ring-Motorcycle-Air-Filter-32MM-35MM-38MM-48MM-54MM-60MM-Cleaner-For-SR400-CB550/32838679542.html?spm=2114.search0302.3.34.41a66e2eZTEFLe_ab_test=searchweb0_0%2Csearchweb201602_0_10130_10152_10151_531_315_10618_10059_10696_10084_100031_10083_10547_10624_10546_10623_10307_10548_10341_10065_10340_10068_10343_10342_10103_10620_10344_10325_10545_10622_10324_10621%2Csearchweb201603_0%2CppcSwitch_0_pvid=a83f2238-2644-4047-a5bb-ba5c5cd18d8e_expid=a83f2238-2644-4047-a5bb-ba5c5cd18d8e-4
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 3:34:24 PM UTC-6, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> What brand/size air filters are you using for this build?
>>>>> Thanks
>>>>>
>>>>> On Monday, January 14, 2019 at 6:48:06 PM UTC-5, roidfingers wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Got the carb supports on today and the air filters. Didn't have any
>>>>>> gas. Sprained a bit of brake cleaner in there. Been sitting for 4 months.
>>>>>> She fired right up for a few seconds. I'm waiting on a new petcock. But
>>>>>> will try fresh gas tomorrow. Gonna have to get some mufflers. Wow. just 
>>>>>> two
>>>>>> foot of pipe. All four. Synk the carbs and the start on front end.
>>>>>>
>>>>> --
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>>> Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> Jenya Spektor
>> 917.202.3080
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the

2019-01-29 Thread Jenya Spektor
Pardon my ignorance - but where is the fuel rail located? I had changed the 6 
orings on two aluminum and one black plastic connectors between the carbs... 
the black plastic t-shaped tube connects to the tank I believe.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 29, 2019, at 4:17 PM, Tommy Hill  wrote:
> 
> Did you also replace orings on the fuel rail?  I know it is more work, but I 
> highly recommend it. 
> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 85 hawk to cafe racer

2019-01-29 Thread Jenya Spektor
Also, what did you use instead of an air box - there are bunch of things
that fit on it on both sides.
Thanks

On Sat, Jan 26, 2019 at 7:48 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:

> Thank you! I will measure the diameter of the air intake side of the
> carbs. JS
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 25, 2019, at 8:01 PM, 'roidfingers' via Nighthawk Motorcycle
> Lovers!  wrote:
>
> Want to say they were 54mm. But just measure to be sure. I used my
> calipers.
>
>
> On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 7:00:17 PM UTC-6, roidfingers wrote:
>>
>> Got them here. Only thing that would fit with middle frame bar down the
>> center.
>>
>> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-Stainless-Ring-Motorcycle-Air-Filter-32MM-35MM-38MM-48MM-54MM-60MM-Cleaner-For-SR400-CB550/32838679542.html?spm=2114.search0302.3.34.41a66e2eZTEFLe_ab_test=searchweb0_0%2Csearchweb201602_0_10130_10152_10151_531_315_10618_10059_10696_10084_100031_10083_10547_10624_10546_10623_10307_10548_10341_10065_10340_10068_10343_10342_10103_10620_10344_10325_10545_10622_10324_10621%2Csearchweb201603_0%2CppcSwitch_0_pvid=a83f2238-2644-4047-a5bb-ba5c5cd18d8e_expid=a83f2238-2644-4047-a5bb-ba5c5cd18d8e-4
>>
>> On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 3:34:24 PM UTC-6, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>>>
>>> What brand/size air filters are you using for this build?
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> On Monday, January 14, 2019 at 6:48:06 PM UTC-5, roidfingers wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Got the carb supports on today and the air filters. Didn't have any
>>>> gas. Sprained a bit of brake cleaner in there. Been sitting for 4 months.
>>>> She fired right up for a few seconds. I'm waiting on a new petcock. But
>>>> will try fresh gas tomorrow. Gonna have to get some mufflers. Wow. just two
>>>> foot of pipe. All four. Synk the carbs and the start on front end.
>>>>
>>> --
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>

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917.202.3080

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the

2019-01-29 Thread Jenya Spektor
I did - I used silicone lube for those.

On Tue, Jan 29, 2019 at 2:36 PM bobshel...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Lol!! When you put the o rings in did you lube them with light oil first?
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers_wl=ym_sub1=Internal_sub2=Global_YGrowth_sub3=EmailSignature>
>
> On Tue, Jan 29, 2019 at 1:25 PM, Holger Selover-Stephan
>  wrote:
> Mom!? Is that you???
>
> On Tuesday, January 29, 2019 at 11:21:52 AM UTC-8, kiwinPA wrote:
>
> Yes, you absolutely have to clean all the jets, the float valves, floats,
> bowls, the float pins, your wife’s kitchen counter and every coffee cup and
> spoon whether they look like they need it or not
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 85 hawk to cafe racer

2019-01-26 Thread Jenya Spektor
Thank you! I will measure the diameter of the air intake side of the carbs. JS

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 25, 2019, at 8:01 PM, 'roidfingers' via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! 
>  wrote:
> 
> Want to say they were 54mm. But just measure to be sure. I used my calipers.
> 
> 
>> On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 7:00:17 PM UTC-6, roidfingers wrote:
>> Got them here. Only thing that would fit with middle frame bar down the 
>> center.
>> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-Stainless-Ring-Motorcycle-Air-Filter-32MM-35MM-38MM-48MM-54MM-60MM-Cleaner-For-SR400-CB550/32838679542.html?spm=2114.search0302.3.34.41a66e2eZTEFLe_ab_test=searchweb0_0%2Csearchweb201602_0_10130_10152_10151_531_315_10618_10059_10696_10084_100031_10083_10547_10624_10546_10623_10307_10548_10341_10065_10340_10068_10343_10342_10103_10620_10344_10325_10545_10622_10324_10621%2Csearchweb201603_0%2CppcSwitch_0_pvid=a83f2238-2644-4047-a5bb-ba5c5cd18d8e_expid=a83f2238-2644-4047-a5bb-ba5c5cd18d8e-4
>> 
>>> On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 3:34:24 PM UTC-6, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>>> What brand/size air filters are you using for this build?
>>> Thanks
>>> 
>>>> On Monday, January 14, 2019 at 6:48:06 PM UTC-5, roidfingers wrote:
>>>> Got the carb supports on today and the air filters. Didn't have any gas. 
>>>> Sprained a bit of brake cleaner in there. Been sitting for 4 months. She 
>>>> fired right up for a few seconds. I'm waiting on a new petcock. But will 
>>>> try fresh gas tomorrow. Gonna have to get some mufflers. Wow. just two 
>>>> foot of pipe. All four. Synk the carbs and the start on front end.
> 
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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 85 hawk to cafe racer

2019-01-25 Thread Jenya Spektor
What brand/size air filters are you using for this build?
Thanks

On Monday, January 14, 2019 at 6:48:06 PM UTC-5, roidfingers wrote:
>
> Got the carb supports on today and the air filters. Didn't have any gas. 
> Sprained a bit of brake cleaner in there. Been sitting for 4 months. She 
> fired right up for a few seconds. I'm waiting on a new petcock. But will 
> try fresh gas tomorrow. Gonna have to get some mufflers. Wow. just two foot 
> of pipe. All four. Synk the carbs and the start on front end.
>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the blue.

2019-01-14 Thread Jenya Spektor
Yes I am  - even thought I am slowing down a bit this year, but have to get
ready for a trail marathon in May.


On Fri, Jan 11, 2019 at 3:14 PM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> Are you a runner?
>
> On Fri, Jan 11, 2019 at 3:09 PM Graham Rogers 
> wrote:
>
>> Just wondering, our son works in NY
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 11, 2019 at 3:07 PM Jenya Spektor 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I design web/desktop applications for living... so a lot of strategic
>>> and creative work. That’s why I enjoy my old metal ‘toys’ so much when I
>>> have time to tinker with them.
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Jan 11, 2019, at 2:04 PM, Graham Rogers 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Jenya, where do you work?
>>>
>>> On Fri, Jan 11, 2019 at 10:16 AM Jenya Spektor 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I in NYC and right now it's 25 degrees - so an Irish coffee would be
>>>> the way to go.
>>>> And thanks for your support - that is something that keeps me going at
>>>> this point.
>>>> Jenya
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Jan 11, 2019 at 8:29 AM Graham Rogers <
>>>> grahamjoanrog...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> After finally getting those carbs back on the bike there’s nothing
>>>>> like the sound of a 700S idling perfectly at 1100 rpms. Didn’t even notice
>>>>> that it was 35 degrees in the garage. Went back inside the house and had a
>>>>> nice cool Luigi’s Italian ice, mango flavor.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Fri, Jan 11, 2019 at 8:20 AM Tommy Hill 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> --
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>>>>>> send an email to nighthawk_lovers+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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>>>>>> nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com.
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>>>>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>>>>
>>>>> --
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>>>>> .
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>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Jenya Spektor
>>>> 917.202.3080
>>>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the blue.

2019-01-11 Thread Jenya Spektor
I design web/desktop applications for living... so a lot of strategic and 
creative work. That’s why I enjoy my old metal ‘toys’ so much when I have time 
to tinker with them.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 11, 2019, at 2:04 PM, Graham Rogers  wrote:
> 
> Jenya, where do you work?
> 
>> On Fri, Jan 11, 2019 at 10:16 AM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>> I in NYC and right now it's 25 degrees - so an Irish coffee would be the way 
>> to go.
>> And thanks for your support - that is something that keeps me going at this 
>> point.
>> Jenya
>> 
>>> On Fri, Jan 11, 2019 at 8:29 AM Graham Rogers  
>>> wrote:
>>> After finally getting those carbs back on the bike there’s nothing like the 
>>> sound of a 700S idling perfectly at 1100 rpms. Didn’t even notice that it 
>>> was 35 degrees in the garage. Went back inside the house and had a nice 
>>> cool Luigi’s Italian ice, mango flavor.
>>> 
>>>> On Fri, Jan 11, 2019 at 8:20 AM Tommy Hill  wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> -- 
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>>> 
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>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Jenya Spektor
>> 917.202.3080
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the blue.

2019-01-11 Thread Jenya Spektor
I in NYC and right now it's 25 degrees - so an Irish coffee would be the
way to go.
And thanks for your support - that is something that keeps me going at this
point.
Jenya

On Fri, Jan 11, 2019 at 8:29 AM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

> After finally getting those carbs back on the bike there’s nothing like
> the sound of a 700S idling perfectly at 1100 rpms. Didn’t even notice that
> it was 35 degrees in the garage. Went back inside the house and had a nice
> cool Luigi’s Italian ice, mango flavor.
>
> On Fri, Jan 11, 2019 at 8:20 AM Tommy Hill  wrote:
>
>> 
>>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the blue.

2019-01-10 Thread Jenya Spektor
Graham, doesn’t sound very reassuring but I have to do it all the same. Will 
post if any questions arise. Thanks again.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 10, 2019, at 1:58 PM, Graham Rogers  wrote:
> 
> Here’s what I do Jenya. Yours is a CB650SC Nighthawk right or a 700S, same 
> process. Once you get the carbs out and the throttle cables and choke cable 
> detached, go out and celebrate. That and reinstalling is the hardest part. I 
> then remove the float bowls, fill them with carb cleaner and let them sit in 
> Luigi’s Italian ice cups (mango flavor). Then I remove the jets,  ( the main 
> and low speed jets). I drop them into another small container of carb cleaner 
> and let them sit. Then I spray out the carb body with carb cleaner spray. 
> Then I turn the carbs upside down (actually - the right way up) and remove 
> the diaphragm covers, remove the diaphragm slides, springs and clean them 
> all, checking for holes or tears in the diaphragms. Again, I spray out the 
> carb body and use compressed air through all the passages. Sometimes, when I 
> remember, I remove and clean the mixture screws. If the carbs are really 
> dirty and the jets gummed up I’ll let them soak overnight. Next day, spray 
> carb cleaner through the jets and reassemble.
> Before reinstalling the carbs, check the carb boot bolts to make sure they 
> are tight. Reinstalling the carbs, getting the cables back in place may take 
> longer than cleaning the carbs themselves. 
> This morning I did all that on a Nighthawk 700S. Got everything back together 
> and it’s only running on 3 out of 4 cylinders. I may have to start over, 
> Graham
> 
>> On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 1:30 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>> Hi all - coming back to this thread. So I am about the get the carbs out and 
>> start the break down process.
>> Few helpful hints for me if you please:
>> 1. What is the best cleaner for the carb parts that works well and is safe 
>> for the 36 yo carbs.
>> 2. Once I clean and put it all together, is there a way or a kind of liquid 
>> that I can fill the carbs with to check for leaks?
>> Thank you in advance, Jenya
>> 
>>> On Tue, Dec 18, 2018 at 7:14 PM EGrider  wrote:
>>> I've cleaned carbs a lot of times but only broken the rack once to replace 
>>> the o-rings in the fuel tubes. I used the o-rings from the millimeter set 
>>> of nitrile o-rings at Harbor Freight. The tiniest ones also work well on 
>>> the mixture screws in the carbs.  I fixed the carbs and had 100 o-rings 
>>> left for $5 or so. Such a deal. 
>>> -- 
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>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
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>> 917.202.3080
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the blue.

2019-01-10 Thread Jenya Spektor
Hi all - coming back to this thread. So I am about the get the carbs out
and start the break down process.
Few helpful hints for me if you please:
1. What is the best cleaner for the carb parts that works well and is safe
for the 36 yo carbs.
2. Once I clean and put it all together, is there a way or a kind of liquid
that I can fill the carbs with to check for leaks?
Thank you in advance, Jenya

On Tue, Dec 18, 2018 at 7:14 PM EGrider  wrote:

> I've cleaned carbs a lot of times but only broken the rack once to replace
> the o-rings in the fuel tubes. I used the o-rings from the millimeter set
> of nitrile o-rings at Harbor Freight. The tiniest ones also work well on
> the mixture screws in the carbs.  I fixed the carbs and had 100 o-rings
> left for $5 or so. Such a deal.
>
> --
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Carbs started leaking out of the blue.

2018-12-18 Thread Jenya Spektor
Yeah - it's still leaking when the engine is idling. So my only choice is
to pull them off and take them apart.
Now for the brand of the rebuild kits - i've seen a bunch (ranging from 30
to 90 dollars).
Also, if there is a free rebuild guide that I can use (different from the
Clymer Manual) - it would help.
Best, and thank you.
Jenya

On Tue, Dec 18, 2018 at 3:25 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:

> Hey - thank you all. Tried both the mallet to the carb bowls as well as
> shutting off and restarting. Let’s give it a few hours to soak in the fuel
> - hopefully the shrinkage is the culprit. Will update later today/tomorrow.
> Sincerely, Jenya
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Dec 18, 2018, at 11:00 AM, EGrider  wrote:
> >
> > If the carbs are completely dry for a while, the seals will shrink and
> leak a bit. This may go away as the o-rings naturally "rehydrate" with
> fresh gas. Allen told me this a few years ago when I experienced this
> problem and he was right. This year I'm starting them up every week or two
> and all is well. It's also reminded me how fast gas evaporates from a
> "closed" gas tank, as now I'm checking.
> >
> > --
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Carbs started leaking out of the blue.

2018-12-18 Thread Jenya Spektor
Hey - thank you all. Tried both the mallet to the carb bowls as well as 
shutting off and restarting. Let’s give it a few hours to soak in the fuel - 
hopefully the shrinkage is the culprit. Will update later today/tomorrow. 
Sincerely, Jenya

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 18, 2018, at 11:00 AM, EGrider  wrote:
> 
> If the carbs are completely dry for a while, the seals will shrink and leak a 
> bit. This may go away as the o-rings naturally "rehydrate" with fresh gas. 
> Allen told me this a few years ago when I experienced this problem and he was 
> right. This year I'm starting them up every week or two and all is well. It's 
> also reminded me how fast gas evaporates from a "closed" gas tank, as now I'm 
> checking.
> 
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the blue.

2018-12-17 Thread Jenya Spektor
About 25 drive (w/o traffic) - I am on Manhattan beach. Exit 7 on the belt pkwy 
going west. I will try to tap them first - will report tomorrow.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 17, 2018, at 4:52 PM, Graham Rogers  wrote:
> 
> How far are you from JFK?
> 
>> On Mon, Dec 17, 2018 at 4:51 PM Graham Rogers  
>> wrote:
>> Too bad, I’m about 3 and a half hours away in PA.. 
>> so first of all, tap the carb bowls with a hammer or such in case the floats 
>> are stuck. Then if the bike will run, start it up and run it for a while, 20 
>> mins or so. If carbs still leak, tap the bowls again. All this to eliminate 
>> the possibility of stuck valve floats or leaking float valves.
>> If carbs still leak you probably have to remove them and rebuild them. If 
>> they are leaking from the connecting tubes then it’s the O rings that have 
>> to be replaced, Graham
>> 
>>> On Mon, Dec 17, 2018 at 4:41 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>>> I am in NYC - Brooklyn. Not sure if there is anyone around who can help? 
>>> Hope there is. I am in love with this bike, but the previous owner did 
>>> neglect it and now I am paying for the years of neglect. If someone is 
>>> around Brooklyn (Sheepshead bay Area) and can help me get this bike sorted 
>>> out, I would surely consider it.
>>> Thanks in advance,
>>> J
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the blue.

2018-12-17 Thread Jenya Spektor
I am in NYC - Brooklyn. Not sure if there is anyone around who can help?
Hope there is. I am in love with this bike, but the previous owner did
neglect it and now I am paying for the years of neglect. If someone is
around Brooklyn (Sheepshead bay Area) and can help me get this bike sorted
out, I would surely consider it.
Thanks in advance,
J

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the blue.

2018-12-17 Thread Jenya Spektor
Mine is CB650 Nighthawk - 1983.
Are the carbs the same?

On Monday, December 17, 2018 at 2:56:40 PM UTC-5, Jenya Spektor wrote:
>
> Had stored the bike (1983 NH 650) in the warm garage since early November. 
> Had drained the carb bowls, turned the petcock to off position.
> Today was a nice warm day so i decided to start it  - all of the sudden, 
> the fuel started leaking from the carbs down to a starter and oil enclosure.
> I turned it off, then put a light under and started again - it seems that 
> it leaked a lot from the two connecting tubes in the middle connecting the 
> carbs lengthwise.
> 1. What caused it to leak - did i do something wrong?
> 2. What should I do? (I don't think anyone ever took them off the bike or 
> cleaned them)
> 3. Are there a 'step by step' illustrations on line on how to uninstall 
> the carbs and rebuild them?
> Please help! So far I've been dancing around this bike fixing little 
> things more so than riding it.
> Sincerely, 
> Jenya
>
>

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Carbs started leaking out of the blue.

2018-12-17 Thread Jenya Spektor
Had stored the bike (1983 NH 650) in the warm garage since early November. 
Had drained the carb bowls, turned the petcock to off position.
Today was a nice warm day so i decided to start it  - all of the sudden, 
the fuel started leaking from the carbs down to a starter and oil enclosure.
I turned it off, then put a light under and started again - it seems that 
it leaked a lot from the two connecting tubes in the middle connecting the 
carbs lengthwise.
1. What caused it to leak - did i do something wrong?
2. What should I do? (I don't think anyone ever took them off the bike or 
cleaned them)
3. Are there a 'step by step' illustrations on line on how to uninstall the 
carbs and rebuild them?
Please help! So far I've been dancing around this bike fixing little things 
more so than riding it.
Sincerely, 
Jenya

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My 83 Nighthawk issues

2018-10-24 Thread Jenya Spektor
It does sit - but for more then 5-6 days in between rides.

On Wed, Oct 24, 2018 at 4:35 PM michael szwargulski <
michaelszwargul...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Not unusual for the choke to be needed more than normal in colder
> temperatures. Idle is 1000 plus or minus 100 rpm. If you are letting the
> bike sit for extended periods of time between rides, you need to add fuel
> stabilizer and drain the carbs (turn fuel off and let bike run until it
> dies) after each ride. Doesn`t take much gunk from fuel going bad to screw
> up everything.
>
>
> On Wednesday, October 24, 2018 12:27 PM, Amanda Wurzer <
> amanda.wur...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> If you're having consistent power issues, check the usual suspects like
> plugs, wires. Use premium non ethanol gas. Clean carbs for sure and have a
> sync hooked up to see where they're at.
>
> On Wed, Oct 24, 2018, 12:08 PM Jenya Spektor  wrote:
>
> So the lack of power can be attributed to the engine being cold? I just
> want to make sure there are no other problems I should be anticipating or
> looking for. Thanks
>
> On Wed, Oct 24, 2018 at 10:51 AM Greg Holuban  wrote:
>
> I live in Florida and I usually leave with half choke on. It takes a while
> for these bikes to warm up.
>
> Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/ghei36>
>
> ------
> *From:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com <
> nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Jenya Spektor <
> skaspek...@gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 24, 2018 9:43:44 AM
> *To:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My 83 Nighthawk issues
>
> Great - by turning off the gas you mean it should warm up with whatever
> fuel is left in the carb bowls?
> Thanks
>
> On Wed, Oct 24, 2018 at 10:40 AM MizMandaLyn 
> wrote:
>
> This bike is finicky when it's cold. Most Hondas are. It definitely needs
> a good 5-10 minute warm up and don't romp on it while it's warming up.
> Choke is gonna be needed most of the time unless it's 80+ degrees. Idle
> should be higher in the cold but idle should be around 1k to 1500. Always
> be sure to turn off the gas as well.
>
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>
>
> --
> Jenya Spektor
> 917.202.3080
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>
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My 83 Nighthawk issues

2018-10-24 Thread Jenya Spektor
So the lack of power can be attributed to the engine being cold? I just
want to make sure there are no other problems I should be anticipating or
looking for. Thanks

On Wed, Oct 24, 2018 at 10:51 AM Greg Holuban  wrote:

> I live in Florida and I usually leave with half choke on. It takes a while
> for these bikes to warm up.
>
> Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/ghei36>
>
> --
> *From:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com <
> nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Jenya Spektor <
> skaspek...@gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 24, 2018 9:43:44 AM
> *To:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My 83 Nighthawk issues
>
> Great - by turning off the gas you mean it should warm up with whatever
> fuel is left in the carb bowls?
> Thanks
>
> On Wed, Oct 24, 2018 at 10:40 AM MizMandaLyn 
> wrote:
>
>> This bike is finicky when it's cold. Most Hondas are. It definitely needs
>> a good 5-10 minute warm up and don't romp on it while it's warming up.
>> Choke is gonna be needed most of the time unless it's 80+ degrees. Idle
>> should be higher in the cold but idle should be around 1k to 1500. Always
>> be sure to turn off the gas as well.
>>
>> --
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>>
>
>
> --
> Jenya Spektor
> 917.202.3080
>
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Jenya Spektor
917.202.3080

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] My 83 Nighthawk issues

2018-10-24 Thread Jenya Spektor
Great - by turning off the gas you mean it should warm up with whatever
fuel is left in the carb bowls?
Thanks

On Wed, Oct 24, 2018 at 10:40 AM MizMandaLyn 
wrote:

> This bike is finicky when it's cold. Most Hondas are. It definitely needs
> a good 5-10 minute warm up and don't romp on it while it's warming up.
> Choke is gonna be needed most of the time unless it's 80+ degrees. Idle
> should be higher in the cold but idle should be around 1k to 1500. Always
> be sure to turn off the gas as well.
>
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[Nighthawk Lovers] My 83 Nighthawk issues

2018-10-24 Thread Jenya Spektor
Hey crew!
So here is an issue I've been having  - I start the bike (it's 50 degrees 
outside in NYC now). The bike starts with choke open, I let it run a bit 
(1-2min) at 2300rpm, then I close the choke and it idles ok at 1200rph. 
After a few minutes I try to go in 1st gear and the bike just stalls when I 
try to give it a bit of throttle. 
However, after I let it warm up for more then 5 min, it rides fine. Since 
this is my first bike and I got it during the hot summer months, this 
behavior is still pretty foreign to me and I want to make sure that this is 
normal.
Please let me know if and what I need to do to make sure the bike is ok.
Sincerely,
Jenya

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[Nighthawk Lovers] New battery for 1983 Nighthawk

2018-08-30 Thread Jenya Spektor
Looking to replace my battery - can someone recommend a good not too 
expensive brand that fits with the stock motorcycle wiring and the battery 
compartment. Thank you!

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