[RBW] Re: Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

2012-04-18 Thread newenglandbike
I used the nitto mini front and wald basket, with a Tubus Tara lowrider on 
a 6K tour once.I would use the exact same setup if I did it again.   
The mini-front with wald basket and bungee is incredibly robust, flexible, 
and handy. Of course the Tubus low rider's reputation speaks for itself 
I think.   However, I am sure I could have used a Nitto Big Front rack with 
wald basket and get similar performance. 

Good luck on your tour :D

Matt


On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:34:19 PM UTC-4, Darin G. wrote:

 My Atlantis is built up and riding (gratuitous plug for Saturday Cycles in 
 SLC).  An awesome dreadnaught of a bicycle.  I'm running a Nitto Mini-Front 
 with a Berthoud bag and decaleur on the front.  I'm planning a tour and 
 wondering what y'all use for a front touring rack.  I'm thinking of pulling 
 the Mini off and going with the Nitto Big Front.  Seems the Berthoud bag 
 would rest on it in fine, especially with the decaleur, and then I could 
 hang the front panniers on as well.  But,...wondering if there is some 
 other option where I could keep the Mini-Front and use some kind of clamp 
 on low-rider (Tubus?  Bruce Gordon?).  Is there a rack that would actually 
 use the fork braze ons other than the Nitto?  Suggestions with illustrative 
 photos appreciated.

 D.G.


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[RBW] Re: pre-ordered a blue Sam Hillborne a few minutes ago

2012-04-18 Thread newenglandbike
I've been using the quickbeam crank on my bombadil for years, and have been 
slowly updating my other bikes with the same. The big ring on a triple 
has only ever been a dysfunctional, pant-leg eating guard for me 
anyway. Might as well have a real guard there :)

Matt


On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:27:24 PM UTC-4, Scot Brooks wrote:

 Congratulations! I was in the same situation as you when I ordered my Sam. 
 Had a 14 year old Bontrager Privateer Comp that had been through many 
 reincarnations and it was time to get something new and nice. I think 
 you're going to look back at this as one of the best and most overdue 
 decisions you ever made. 

 In answer your question about the crankset; I went with the triple because 
 they accidentally shipped it to me (I ordered the double with the guard). 
 After riding it for awhile, I removed the big ring in favor of the guard 
 and I've never looked back. I still wish I got the double to begin with 
 because the gearing would be just a bit more useful. In my case, I bought 
 the 12-36 cassette from Riv and I never quite get to low gear even living 
 in hilly Seattle. The cassette would make more sense with the 42/30 double 
 or whatever it is, for me at least. 

 As for the big Marathons, you can go wicked big if you want. I got some 
 700x47 ones to try on my Sam and they fit no sweat, even (kinda sorta) with 
 fenders. I usually just ride the 38 version though. 


On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:27:24 PM UTC-4, Scot Brooks wrote:

 Congratulations! I was in the same situation as you when I ordered my Sam. 
 Had a 14 year old Bontrager Privateer Comp that had been through many 
 reincarnations and it was time to get something new and nice. I think 
 you're going to look back at this as one of the best and most overdue 
 decisions you ever made. 

 In answer your question about the crankset; I went with the triple because 
 they accidentally shipped it to me (I ordered the double with the guard). 
 After riding it for awhile, I removed the big ring in favor of the guard 
 and I've never looked back. I still wish I got the double to begin with 
 because the gearing would be just a bit more useful. In my case, I bought 
 the 12-36 cassette from Riv and I never quite get to low gear even living 
 in hilly Seattle. The cassette would make more sense with the 42/30 double 
 or whatever it is, for me at least. 

 As for the big Marathons, you can go wicked big if you want. I got some 
 700x47 ones to try on my Sam and they fit no sweat, even (kinda sorta) with 
 fenders. I usually just ride the 38 version though. 


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[RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

2012-04-18 Thread doc
I found the Barley too small for day rides and went with the Pendle.
For both bags I inserted hard plastic backing to help them maintain
their shape (cut from cat litter tubs).  For both sprung and unsprung
saddles, a Midlands bag support at $7.00 works great and keeps them
from swaying, plus prevents them rubbing up against the backs of my
thighs.

I love the looks of the Carradice, but I wish they had different
fasteners than the traditional buckles.  They can be cumbersome,
especially in winter when wearing a pair of gloves.

On Apr 17, 11:59 pm, charlie cl_v...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Thought of Barley until I purchased a Nelson Longflap...and glad I
 did. The Barley would be too small except in ideal weather (for me) In
 the summer I use a Banana bag for tools,tube, wallet and phone but in
 the rainy Northwest I need capacity for rain gear and a change of
 clothing etc. for the other nine months of the year. I imagine a
 Barley would be a nice bag to leave on all year with perhaps another
 (maybe a front bag) to supplement. I rack my Nelson now and am in the
 process of building a spartan rack / bag support / light mount. This
 rack will be made with the idea of adding and extension piece for a
 full rack when I want to camp or whatever. Still working on the
 design...with bags more is better when you actually want to carry
 stuff. When you go big you find stuff to carry that you might actually
 need or want to make cycling more enjoyable and less of a stranded in
 the middle of nowhere without what you need athletic event.   ; )

 On Apr 17, 2:36 pm, Peter M uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:







  Thinking of getting a Carradice Barley saddlebag but wanted to ask if
  anyone here is running one currently and how they like it. Also do you
  need a bag support with this thing like the now discontinued Hupe, and
  will it work with a sprung Brooks like the B72? Thanks to any help
  anyone can offer.

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[RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

2012-04-18 Thread newenglandbike
Another vote for the barley being a tad small.Good bag, but other than 
tools/spare tube and a sweater you're not fitting much in there. For 
Carradice, my faves are the camper and camper longflap.BUT you should 
take a long hard look at a Saddlesack Medium or Large.   Those bags 
combined with a nitto top rack are ridiculously useful and well designed.

-Matt

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:44:58 AM UTC-4, doc wrote:

 I found the Barley too small for day rides and went with the Pendle. 
 For both bags I inserted hard plastic backing to help them maintain 
 their shape (cut from cat litter tubs).  For both sprung and unsprung 
 saddles, a Midlands bag support at $7.00 works great and keeps them 
 from swaying, plus prevents them rubbing up against the backs of my 
 thighs. 

 I love the looks of the Carradice, but I wish they had different 
 fasteners than the traditional buckles.  They can be cumbersome, 
 especially in winter when wearing a pair of gloves. 

 On Apr 17, 11:59 pm, charlie cl_v...@hotmail.com wrote: 
  Thought of Barley until I purchased a Nelson Longflap...and glad I 
  did. The Barley would be too small except in ideal weather (for me) In 
  the summer I use a Banana bag for tools,tube, wallet and phone but in 
  the rainy Northwest I need capacity for rain gear and a change of 
  clothing etc. for the other nine months of the year. I imagine a 
  Barley would be a nice bag to leave on all year with perhaps another 
  (maybe a front bag) to supplement. I rack my Nelson now and am in the 
  process of building a spartan rack / bag support / light mount. This 
  rack will be made with the idea of adding and extension piece for a 
  full rack when I want to camp or whatever. Still working on the 
  design...with bags more is better when you actually want to carry 
  stuff. When you go big you find stuff to carry that you might actually 
  need or want to make cycling more enjoyable and less of a stranded in 
  the middle of nowhere without what you need athletic event.   ; ) 
  
  On Apr 17, 2:36 pm, Peter M uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote: 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
   Thinking of getting a Carradice Barley saddlebag but wanted to ask if 
   anyone here is running one currently and how they like it. Also do you 
   need a bag support with this thing like the now discontinued Hupe, and 
   will it work with a sprung Brooks like the B72? Thanks to any help 
   anyone can offer.

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[RBW] Platrack In Back

2012-04-18 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean
This I too shall try! Rhetorical question: perhaps there's a way of doing it 
without the diving board?

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

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[RBW] Re: FS: 59cm Bleriot

2012-04-18 Thread Kris
Still available...thanks to an individual who appears to have flaked out 
the bike is now boxed and ready to ship.
 
$1300 + shipping.
 

On Tuesday, April 10, 2012 8:25:53 AM UTC-4, Kris wrote:

 2 out of 3 interested parties have backed outfinances and size. 
 The third is thinking.  The Bleriot is still available and will 
 finally be on eBay in the next 48 hrs if nobody is interested.  Sorry 
 for the multiple posts, but I really dislike using eBay for various 
 reasons. 

 On Mar 29, 9:42 am, Kris kkjellqu...@gmail.com wrote: 
  The bike is still available. I have posted on my local craigslist 
  sites.  I would really like to not use eBay. 
  
  Kris 
  
  On Mar 28, 9:12 am, colin p. cummings colinthehip...@gmail.com 
  wrote: 
  
  
  
   What a deal.  somebody gonna be happy when they get this. 
  
   On Mar 27, 7:06 pm, Kris kkjellqu...@gmail.com wrote: 
  
MyBleriotis just not getting ridden enough and the poor guy is 
hanging on a hook all day.  I am the original owner and purchased 
directly from QBP when I worked at a shop.  I am only selling to 
finance the purchase of a Salsa Fargo. 
  
I am the original owner and it's in great condition.  It has the 
 usual 
nicks but no significant scratches.  The Honjo fenders have some 
dings, but still look great!  There's some wear on the head badge as 
well. 
  
Build; 
59 cmBleriotframe and fork 
Shimano 600 headset 
Nitto Randonneur bar 
Nitto Technomic 110 stem 
Shimano R600 50/34 cranks 
Shimano Ultegra FD 
Shimano 105 RD 
Shimano Dura Ace bar end shifters 
Tektro R556 side pull calipers 
Cane Creek brake levers 
Shimano LX/Velocity Synergy wheel set 
Nifty Swifty Tires 
Honjo Fenders 
Campagnolo Athena seatpost 
  
No pedals, saddle or cassette (which was used on my main road bike) 
  
$1300 + shipping - pics available for those interested.  I'm in 
Asheville, NC if someone local is interested.- Hide quoted text - 
  
   - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - 
  
  - Show quoted text -

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Re: [RBW] Re: Where does the Rivendell Rambouillet fit in with other Rivs?

2012-04-18 Thread Steven Frederick
Yeah, that covers it.  Grant's been about maximizing brake clearance ever
since he started Riv.  The all 'rounder with canti brakes concept has
always been part of it, and with each longer-reach sidepull that's been
introduced, Rivendell has introduced an appropriate frame.  The Heron road
was designed to maximize the short reach brake that was the only thing
available at the time.  When the mid-reach brakes came out, the Rambioullet
replaced the Heron Road.  And the Saluki was a twofer, introducing both the
current superlong sidepull brake and 650b.  This frame lives on in the
AHH.

Each succesive Rivendell has also gotten a bit slacker, tourey/all roadier
and a bit stouter.  The Roadeo is a throwback to the sportier Rivs like the
Heron road and Rambouillet, steeper, lighter, but with the long reach and
tire/fender clearances that have become available the last few years.

I personally think the Roadeo is the best pavement-oriented Riv ever made.
If I didn't already have a Heron Road and a Rambouillet, I would buy one.

Steve

On Wed, Apr 11, 2012 at 2:56 PM, Cyclofiend Jim cyclofi...@earthlink.netwrote:

 One thing we tend to take a little for granted these days was the
 comparative lack of appropriate tires, brake and such which we are
 currently enjoying. At the time, the common brakes were typically short
 reach, and though the Rambouillet was designed for significant clearance,
 there was just not a lot of hardware which supported that idea.  I recall
 GP lamenting in his end-of-year wish lists in Readers from then that he was
 hoping for standard reach brakes from the major manufacturers.

 When the Silver Brakes came out, this let GP start working on a truly
 large clearance, go-anywhere bike, which became the Hilsen.  The Hilsen
 kind of slid the scale one way, and then the Roadeo was able to be notched
 a bit more toward the light and snappy (though, significantly, with no loss
 of clearances) range.

 Here's an interesting image or two -

 The Rambouillet rear clearance -
 http://www.cyclofiend.com/Images/rbw/rr24_pg21md.jpg

 Shown with a Pasela 35 (which during that era probably ran more like a 32)
 and Dia Compe 505Q brake.

 The Hilsen rear clearance -
 http://cyclofiend.com/Images/rbw/AHH37PASsharpieRear.jpg

 Shown with a 37 Pasela and Silver brakes.

 As others mentioned, I do have a Rambouillet page here -
 http://www.cyclofiend.com/rbw/rambouillet

 - Jim

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Re: [RBW] Re: Platrack Slickersack Marks Rack Combo for sale

2012-04-18 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Tue, 2012-04-17 at 19:33 -0700, Bill M. wrote:
 The subject line sounds like it could be a part of the signoff from
 NPR's Car Talk:
 
 
 
 ...and our executive producer Doug Free Lunch Berman, just back
 from the Hackensack Platrack, Slickersack, Mark's Rack, fatback,
 hardtack, lamb rack, Dry Sack and Monterey Jack On-Your-Back Snack
 Attack.


or an American Express commercial



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[RBW] Re: Platrack In Back

2012-04-18 Thread Marty

And let's not forget this solution. Rube Goldberg has been busy with his 
own Platrack!

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vLhnBeN3UsU/T465fRfV2QI/ADU/WoMc8pHUQHs/s1600/Nitto+PR.tiff

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[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?

2012-04-18 Thread RJM
Hey, Bicycling Magazine every so often is good for something.  
 
I kid, I kid.

On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:02:56 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:

 What may seem intuitive to me today came from reading exactly the way 
 you're doing now. It may be possible to teach oneself all the shifting 
 tricks strictly from riding and doing, but I prefer to ask someone who 
 already knows them. My front shifting approach was derived from a Bicycling 
 Magazine article witten 20 years ago by Ned Overend..teaching mountain bike 
 racing, of all things. It made sense; I tried it on the road; it worked.
  
 Joe Bernard
 Vallejo, CA. 

 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 7:46:26 PM UTC-7, Zack wrote:

 Joe - 

 Thank you for the response - perfect description, and also the exact 
 opposite of what I have been doing.

 To some of you guys may just be intuitive or obvious, but it takes me a 
 little bit to catch on to things.  

 I will also tighten the silvers up again.  It does seem like I have to *
 really* have them tight in order for them not to slip on the Sam.  I had 
 a Salsa Casseroll that had silvers which was not nearly as finnicky.  

 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 8:09:35 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote: 

 Zack, I live in a hilly area so I use all three rings pretty often..this 
 may not apply to your terrain. Like you, I ride flattish roads in the 
 middle ring, but when approaching an incline I'll usually shift to the 
 small ring up front before bottoming out the gears in back. So my 
 conditions are granny-ring for up, middle-ring for flat, big-ring for 
 downhill. I'm using the front shifting to establish the parameters, then 
 fine-tuning with the rear. 
  
 Now here's where this helps with overshifts on the front: Let's say 
 you're in the middle ring, in the highest gear in back. Look down and what 
 do you see? The chain is angling to the right to get to the smallest rear 
 cog. Now you want to shift the front of the chain to the right, also, to 
 get your highest gear. You're more likely to throw the chain past the 
 chainring in this situation because the rest of the chain is veering that 
 way. But let's say you're only in the *middle *rear cogs, then decide 
 to shift the front . Less chance of overthrow, because the chain started 
 out in more of a straight line front-to-back before the front shift. This 
 works the other direction, too. You're more likely to overshift the granny 
 if the chain is already all the way to the spokes in back.
  
 I'm sorry if that's not clear, feel free to keep asking questions. Btw, 
 my Rivendell Romulus came to me with a similar drivetrain, and overshifted 
 like the dickens when I first got it. It was a hard lesson..
  
 Joe Bernard
 Vallejo, CA.

 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:45:28 PM UTC-7, Zack wrote:

 FD was from Riv, I had them do the setup last year when I got the bike. 

 It would surprise me if I had already worn out either a chainring or a 
 casette, only rode the Sam for the end of the summer until now, less than 
 1,000 miles I would imagine.

 slipping on the cogs, not the rings.  

 have read the sheldon article on chains, and also the one on chain 
 slip.  I tried some grease underneath the bb to see if that will help.

 was just more interested in riding tips than troubleshooting the 
 derailer stuff, as I have seen lots of tips on the derailers but not much 
 on the riding.

 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:44:51 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote: 

 I noticed a discussion cropping up in the New Chain Skipping thread 
 that I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I 
 have been thinking about it a bit -  

 I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense 
 to me - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i 
 am 
 not going to be able to get up the hill, i shift.  

 But I never really learned the right way to do this.  I have learned 
 a little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up 
 on 
 the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a 
 dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource.  I know for 
 many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to 
 ride 
 a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing.

 I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a 
 triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I shift 
 to either the big or small chainring.  I am cognizant of cross gearing, 
 but 
 am probably guilty of doing it once in a while.

 I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing chains 
 (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which leads me 
 to believe I am part of the problem.

 So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way it 
 should be treated?




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[RBW] Re: Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

2012-04-18 Thread RJM
Does anybody know if the Nitto Big front rack fits the Atlantis without the 
use of P-clamps; does it just bolt right up to the braze on?  
 

On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 9:34:19 PM UTC-5, Darin G. wrote:

 My Atlantis is built up and riding (gratuitous plug for Saturday Cycles in 
 SLC).  An awesome dreadnaught of a bicycle.  I'm running a Nitto Mini-Front 
 with a Berthoud bag and decaleur on the front.  I'm planning a tour and 
 wondering what y'all use for a front touring rack.  I'm thinking of pulling 
 the Mini off and going with the Nitto Big Front.  Seems the Berthoud bag 
 would rest on it in fine, especially with the decaleur, and then I could 
 hang the front panniers on as well.  But,...wondering if there is some 
 other option where I could keep the Mini-Front and use some kind of clamp 
 on low-rider (Tubus?  Bruce Gordon?).  Is there a rack that would actually 
 use the fork braze ons other than the Nitto?  Suggestions with illustrative 
 photos appreciated. 

 D.G.


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[RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

2012-04-18 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
There are several excellent front racks on the market, but few work elegantly 
with the Atlantis fork braze-ons. Do you have one of the new Atlantis forks 
that have threaded holes on top of the fork crown? I adapted a Surly front rack 
to work on my touring bike...basically by using some rear Surly rack hardware 
and mounting it like a rear rack making use of the top-crown connection. It was 
really strong and clean looking. I'll try to dig up a photo.

But there is a downside: I quit using the Atlantis as a front loader, at least 
with the heavy loads the Surly rack allowed me to carry. I found it unnervingly 
flexy up front when the front load was substantial. This flexiness led me to 
conclude that 1 steerers and quill stems were at a disadvantage when carrying 
lots of weight up front. My Curt Goodrich tourer was 1-1/8 threadless, which 
felt much more solid up front regardless of how much stuff I carried. A friend 
of mine reached the same conclusion in the middle of a one-week tour when he 
tested a compsnion's Surly LHT after complaining that his otherwise gorgeous 
custom tourer (1 steerer) was scary with a heavy front load. I should clarify 
that the flexiness did not stop me from enjoying many happy trips and 
overnights on my Atlantis. The best front load solution I found was a Wald 
basket that I could clamp on the handlebar and zip-tie to the Nitto mini front. 
Anchoring the basket between the bar and rack made for a solid connection. 
Everything that I didn't want in the basket went on the back.

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[RBW] Re: pre-ordered a blue Sam Hillborne a few minutes ago

2012-04-18 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
Yep. I've never used the QB crank, but have added Salsa Crossing Guards and 
Ring Dingers in place of big chainrings on many of my bikes over the years. For 
people who don't like the prevalence of 11t cogs on cassettes...it's not so bad 
when your big ring is a 36 or 38 or 40t. In fact, at least once I ditched the 
front derailleur and shifter. Unless the bike was loaded, I rarely needed the 
granny. The front derailer and shifter were dead weight and a mechanical 
liability. For occasional granny gear use, I shifter with my finger (I suggest 
stopping the bike first).

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[RBW] Re: pre-ordered a blue Sam Hillborne a few minutes ago

2012-04-18 Thread Mike

On Apr 18, 12:14 am, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:
 I've been using the quickbeam crank on my bombadil for years, and have been
 slowly updating my other bikes with the same.     The big ring on a triple
 has only ever been a dysfunctional, pant-leg eating guard for me
 anyway.     Might as well have a real guard there :)

 Matt


More and more this set-up is making sense to me. I have a pair of VO
50.4 BCD cranks on my rando bike and while I love the 46/30 rings I
just don't like the cranks. Set-up is a bit tricky as it's much easier
to have issues with chainline and the crank arms hitting the chain due
to the design. Why they didn't update the design a bit, like Rene
Herse did, rather than just make a straight copy of the TA crank is
beyond me. Also, I don't know that I'm a van of the super low q-
factor.

I sold my QB a while back but kept the cranks. I may use them on my
Hilsen with an 8-spd 11-32 cassette. Two questions:

1) What derailer do I use? Double? Triple?

2) Are there any issues I need to be aware of when using the big
(middle) ring and the lowest or highest gear?

I guess I have a third question, how do I determine chain length, just
wrap the chain around the big (middle) ring and lowest gear?

Thanks!

--mike

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[RBW] Re: Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

2012-04-18 Thread RJM
I don't have an Atlantis...yet.  I am trying to decide between the 
Atlantis, the Hunqapillar or maybe even a Bombadil for loaded touring and 
as a camp/trail bike to compliment my Sam Hillborne (more roadish setup).  
I am on the small side, so it would be 26 wheels on the Hunq or 
Atlantis or 650b for the Bombadil and was just trying to get a feel for 
what front rack combo would be appropriate.  I believe the Hunq and the 
Bombadil have threaded holes on the top of the fork crown; I didn't realize 
the new Atlantis ones did too.
 
I have a Jamis Aurora that has seen better days and probably should be made 
into a commuter instead of a touring bike. I used it with a Nitto mini 
front rack and a Wald basket for my last tour.  It worked fine, but I would 
like to be able to get more weight down low if I buy a new touring bike.  
 
Thanks for relaying your experience with the quill stem/threaded headset on 
a front loader.  It is certainly something to think about before putting a 
deposit down.
 

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 8:08:05 AM UTC-5, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:

 There are several excellent front racks on the market, but few work 
 elegantly with the Atlantis fork braze-ons. Do you have one of the new 
 Atlantis forks that have threaded holes on top of the fork crown? I adapted 
 a Surly front rack to work on my touring bike...basically by using some 
 rear Surly rack hardware and mounting it like a rear rack making use of the 
 top-crown connection. It was really strong and clean looking. I'll try to 
 dig up a photo. 

 But there is a downside: I quit using the Atlantis as a front loader, at 
 least with the heavy loads the Surly rack allowed me to carry. I found it 
 unnervingly flexy up front when the front load was substantial. This 
 flexiness led me to conclude that 1 steerers and quill stems were at a 
 disadvantage when carrying lots of weight up front. My Curt Goodrich tourer 
 was 1-1/8 threadless, which felt much more solid up front regardless of how 
 much stuff I carried. A friend of mine reached the same conclusion in the 
 middle of a one-week tour when he tested a compsnion's Surly LHT after 
 complaining that his otherwise gorgeous custom tourer (1 steerer) was 
 scary with a heavy front load. I should clarify that the flexiness did not 
 stop me from enjoying many happy trips and overnights on my Atlantis. The 
 best front load solution I found was a Wald basket that I could clamp on 
 the handlebar and zip-tie to the Nitto mini front. Anchoring the basket 
 between the bar and rack made for a solid connection. Everything that I 
 didn't want in the basket went on the back.

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[RBW] Re: pre-ordered a blue Sam Hillborne a few minutes ago

2012-04-18 Thread newenglandbike
Hi Mike,

I just use a triple derailleur, and have adjusted the screws so that it 
doesn't shift past the middle ring. For chain length I use the middle 
ring and largest rear cog +2 links, and that seems to work OK. The 
stock 40/32 of the QB crank may not give you the full range you want but it 
is not awful.When it came time for new rings I went with a 28t small 
ring.   If running 700c wheels with fat tires you may not even need 40t on 
the 'big' (middle) ring and could go to a 36/26 or something.Anyway 
it's great to hop on the bike and not worry about tying up your pant leg 
all the time.The guard also slides right over small fallen trees.

-Matt.


On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 9:36:41 AM UTC-4, Mike wrote:


 On Apr 18, 12:14 am, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote: 
  I've been using the quickbeam crank on my bombadil for years, and have 
 been 
  slowly updating my other bikes with the same. The big ring on a 
 triple 
  has only ever been a dysfunctional, pant-leg eating guard for me 
  anyway. Might as well have a real guard there :) 
  
  Matt 


 More and more this set-up is making sense to me. I have a pair of VO 
 50.4 BCD cranks on my rando bike and while I love the 46/30 rings I 
 just don't like the cranks. Set-up is a bit tricky as it's much easier 
 to have issues with chainline and the crank arms hitting the chain due 
 to the design. Why they didn't update the design a bit, like Rene 
 Herse did, rather than just make a straight copy of the TA crank is 
 beyond me. Also, I don't know that I'm a van of the super low q- 
 factor. 

 I sold my QB a while back but kept the cranks. I may use them on my 
 Hilsen with an 8-spd 11-32 cassette. Two questions: 

 1) What derailer do I use? Double? Triple? 

 2) Are there any issues I need to be aware of when using the big 
 (middle) ring and the lowest or highest gear? 

 I guess I have a third question, how do I determine chain length, just 
 wrap the chain around the big (middle) ring and lowest gear? 

 Thanks! 

 --mike 



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RE: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

2012-04-18 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
Not sure if this is perfectly responsive, but here's an Atlantis (mine) with a 
Nitto Big Front Rack:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815789426/in/set-72157624427413755

It worked very well on a tour with a Wald basket zip-tied on, a small Berthoud 
handlebar bag above (with the Klik-Fix handlebar mount -- mount without bag is 
here: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815790104/in/set-72157624427413755/) 
and Arkel small panniers below.  Handled very nicely, though I may not be as 
sensitive to handling nuances as others on the list.

I believe I could have mounted without P-clamps, but the Paul brakes got in the 
way.  The picture shows where.


From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Darin G.
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:34 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

My Atlantis is built up and riding (gratuitous plug for Saturday Cycles in 
SLC).  An awesome dreadnaught of a bicycle.  I'm running a Nitto Mini-Front 
with a Berthoud bag and decaleur on the front.  I'm planning a tour and 
wondering what y'all use for a front touring rack.  I'm thinking of pulling the 
Mini off and going with the Nitto Big Front.  Seems the Berthoud bag would rest 
on it in fine, especially with the decaleur, and then I could hang the front 
panniers on as well.  But,...wondering if there is some other option where I 
could keep the Mini-Front and use some kind of clamp on low-rider (Tubus?  
Bruce Gordon?).  Is there a rack that would actually use the fork braze ons 
other than the Nitto?  Suggestions with illustrative photos appreciated.

D.G.

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message was not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for the 
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or applicable state or local tax law provisions or (ii) promoting, marketing or 
recommending to another party any tax-related matters addressed herein.



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[RBW] Re: pre-ordered a blue Sam Hillborne a few minutes ago

2012-04-18 Thread newenglandbike
PS I haven't had any problems using the big (middle) ring across all the 
cogs, but tend to prefer shifting down to the small ring when on the 
biggest 2 cogs.


On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 9:36:41 AM UTC-4, Mike wrote:


 On Apr 18, 12:14 am, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote: 
  I've been using the quickbeam crank on my bombadil for years, and have 
 been 
  slowly updating my other bikes with the same. The big ring on a 
 triple 
  has only ever been a dysfunctional, pant-leg eating guard for me 
  anyway. Might as well have a real guard there :) 
  
  Matt 


 More and more this set-up is making sense to me. I have a pair of VO 
 50.4 BCD cranks on my rando bike and while I love the 46/30 rings I 
 just don't like the cranks. Set-up is a bit tricky as it's much easier 
 to have issues with chainline and the crank arms hitting the chain due 
 to the design. Why they didn't update the design a bit, like Rene 
 Herse did, rather than just make a straight copy of the TA crank is 
 beyond me. Also, I don't know that I'm a van of the super low q- 
 factor. 

 I sold my QB a while back but kept the cranks. I may use them on my 
 Hilsen with an 8-spd 11-32 cassette. Two questions: 

 1) What derailer do I use? Double? Triple? 

 2) Are there any issues I need to be aware of when using the big 
 (middle) ring and the lowest or highest gear? 

 I guess I have a third question, how do I determine chain length, just 
 wrap the chain around the big (middle) ring and lowest gear? 

 Thanks! 

 --mike 



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[RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

2012-04-18 Thread Jay in Tel Aviv
My usual commuting bag is a Carradice Super C, which is similar in
size to the Nelson and Camper but with plastic clips instead of straps
and buckles.
Much easier.

Jay


On Apr 18, 1:44 pm, doc gspi...@aol.com wrote:
 I found the Barley too small for day rides and went with the Pendle.
 For both bags I inserted hard plastic backing to help them maintain
 their shape (cut from cat litter tubs).  For both sprung and unsprung
 saddles, a Midlands bag support at $7.00 works great and keeps them
 from swaying, plus prevents them rubbing up against the backs of my
 thighs.

 I love the looks of the Carradice, but I wish they had different
 fasteners than the traditional buckles.  They can be cumbersome,
 especially in winter when wearing a pair of gloves.

 On Apr 17, 11:59 pm, charlie cl_v...@hotmail.com wrote:



  Thought of Barley until I purchased a Nelson Longflap...and glad I
  did. The Barley would be too small except in ideal weather (for me) In
  the summer I use a Banana bag for tools,tube, wallet and phone but in
  the rainy Northwest I need capacity for rain gear and a change of
  clothing etc. for the other nine months of the year. I imagine a
  Barley would be a nice bag to leave on all year with perhaps another
  (maybe a front bag) to supplement. I rack my Nelson now and am in the
  process of building a spartan rack / bag support / light mount. This
  rack will be made with the idea of adding and extension piece for a
  full rack when I want to camp or whatever. Still working on the
  design...with bags more is better when you actually want to carry
  stuff. When you go big you find stuff to carry that you might actually
  need or want to make cycling more enjoyable and less of a stranded in
  the middle of nowhere without what you need athletic event.   ; )

  On Apr 17, 2:36 pm, Peter M uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:

   Thinking of getting a Carradice Barley saddlebag but wanted to ask if
   anyone here is running one currently and how they like it. Also do you
   need a bag support with this thing like the now discontinued Hupe, and
   will it work with a sprung Brooks like the B72? Thanks to any help
   anyone can offer.

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Re: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

2012-04-18 Thread William
Tom, why must you always taunt me with your pewter Atlantis?  The tax 
return could buy it, and the build kit is 100% in place (including Nitto 
Big Front and Rear racks).  The only thing I'm missing is cloth bar tape 
(thanks in part to you), and the blasted frameset.  But the family unit 
won't approve it.  Torture.  

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:56:22 AM UTC-7, Pudge wrote:

  Not sure if this is perfectly responsive, but here's an Atlantis (mine) 
 with a Nitto Big Front Rack: 
  

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815789426/in/set-72157624427413755 
  
 It worked very well on a tour with a Wald basket zip-tied on, a small 
 Berthoud handlebar bag above (with the Klik-Fix handlebar mount -- mount 
 without bag is here: 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815790104/in/set-72157624427413755/)
  
 and Arkel small panniers below.  Handled very nicely, though I may not be 
 as sensitive to handling nuances as others on the list.
  
 I believe I could have mounted without P-clamps, but the Paul brakes got 
 in the way.  The picture shows where.

  --
 *From:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:
 rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Darin G.
 *Sent:* Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:34 PM
 *To:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 *Subject:* [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

 My Atlantis is built up and riding (gratuitous plug for Saturday Cycles in 
 SLC).  An awesome dreadnaught of a bicycle.  I'm running a Nitto Mini-Front 
 with a Berthoud bag and decaleur on the front.  I'm planning a tour and 
 wondering what y'all use for a front touring rack.  I'm thinking of pulling 
 the Mini off and going with the Nitto Big Front.  Seems the Berthoud bag 
 would rest on it in fine, especially with the decaleur, and then I could 
 hang the front panniers on as well.  But,...wondering if there is some 
 other option where I could keep the Mini-Front and use some kind of clamp 
 on low-rider (Tubus?  Bruce Gordon?).  Is there a rack that would actually 
 use the fork braze ons other than the Nitto?  Suggestions with illustrative 
 photos appreciated. 

 D.G.

 -- 
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 --
  
 

 To ensure compliance with Treasury Department regulations, we advise you 
 that, unless otherwise expressly indicated, any federal tax advice 
 contained in this message was not intended or written to be used, and 
 cannot be used, for the purpose of (i) avoiding tax-related penalties under 
 the Internal Revenue Code or applicable state or local tax law provisions 
 or (ii) promoting, marketing or recommending to another party any 
 tax-related matters addressed herein.
 
 

 This email (and any attachments thereto) is intended only for use by the 
 addressee(s) named herein and may contain legally privileged and/or 
 confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient of this 
 email, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or 
 copying of this email (and any attachments thereto) is strictly prohibited. 
 If you receive this email in error please immediately notify me at (212) 
 735-3000 and permanently delete the original email (and any copy of any 
 email) and any printout thereof.

 Further information about the firm, a list of the Partners and their 
 professional qualifications will be provided upon request.
 
 ==
  



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RE: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

2012-04-18 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
If I could just finish my $%*%^#@^$%mailto:$%*%^#@^$% Rohloff-equipped 
Bombadil, maybe I'd sell you the Atlantis.  But I haven't been able to make it 
work to my satisfaction.

I haven't yet taped the bars on my SimpleOne, though -- if you need the orange 
tape back (it's not available any more, right?), I'd be delighted to sell it 
back to you at an appropriately inflated price.  ;-)

Seriously, I like that color, but if you're pining for it, let me know, and 
I'll shoot it back across our great nation.  I'm probably going to tape the 
bars on that bike tonight.


From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of William
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:26 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

Tom, why must you always taunt me with your pewter Atlantis?  The tax return 
could buy it, and the build kit is 100% in place (including Nitto Big Front and 
Rear racks).  The only thing I'm missing is cloth bar tape (thanks in part to 
you), and the blasted frameset.  But the family unit won't approve it.  Torture.

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:56:22 AM UTC-7, Pudge wrote:
Not sure if this is perfectly responsive, but here's an Atlantis (mine) with a 
Nitto Big Front Rack:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815789426/in/set-72157624427413755

It worked very well on a tour with a Wald basket zip-tied on, a small Berthoud 
handlebar bag above (with the Klik-Fix handlebar mount -- mount without bag is 
here: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815790104/in/set-72157624427413755/) 
and Arkel small panniers below.  Handled very nicely, though I may not be as 
sensitive to handling nuances as others on the list.

I believe I could have mounted without P-clamps, but the Paul brakes got in the 
way.  The picture shows where.


From: 
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.commailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.commailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com]
 On Behalf Of Darin G.
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:34 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.commailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

My Atlantis is built up and riding (gratuitous plug for Saturday Cycles in 
SLC).  An awesome dreadnaught of a bicycle.  I'm running a Nitto Mini-Front 
with a Berthoud bag and decaleur on the front.  I'm planning a tour and 
wondering what y'all use for a front touring rack.  I'm thinking of pulling the 
Mini off and going with the Nitto Big Front.  Seems the Berthoud bag would rest 
on it in fine, especially with the decaleur, and then I could hang the front 
panniers on as well.  But,...wondering if there is some other option where I 
could keep the Mini-Front and use some kind of clamp on low-rider (Tubus?  
Bruce Gordon?).  Is there a rack that would actually use the fork braze ons 
other than the Nitto?  Suggestions with illustrative photos appreciated.

D.G.

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To ensure compliance with Treasury Department regulations, we advise you that, 
unless otherwise expressly indicated, any federal tax advice contained in this 
message was not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for the 
purpose of (i) avoiding tax-related penalties under the Internal Revenue Code 
or applicable state or local tax law provisions or (ii) promoting, marketing or 
recommending to another party any tax-related matters addressed herein.



This email (and any attachments thereto) is intended only for use by the 
addressee(s) named herein and may contain legally privileged and/or 
confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient of this email, 
you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this 
email (and any attachments thereto) is strictly prohibited. If you receive this 
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delete the original email (and any copy of any email) and any printout thereof.

Further information about the firm, a list of the Partners and their 
professional qualifications will be 

RE: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

2012-04-18 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
sorry all, meant to reply off list


From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Allingham II, Thomas J
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:32 AM
To: 'rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com'
Subject: RE: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

If I could just finish my $%*%^#@^$%mailto:$%*%^#@^$% Rohloff-equipped 
Bombadil, maybe I'd sell you the Atlantis.  But I haven't been able to make it 
work to my satisfaction.

I haven't yet taped the bars on my SimpleOne, though -- if you need the orange 
tape back (it's not available any more, right?), I'd be delighted to sell it 
back to you at an appropriately inflated price.  ;-)

Seriously, I like that color, but if you're pining for it, let me know, and 
I'll shoot it back across our great nation.  I'm probably going to tape the 
bars on that bike tonight.


From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of William
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:26 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

Tom, why must you always taunt me with your pewter Atlantis?  The tax return 
could buy it, and the build kit is 100% in place (including Nitto Big Front and 
Rear racks).  The only thing I'm missing is cloth bar tape (thanks in part to 
you), and the blasted frameset.  But the family unit won't approve it.  Torture.

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:56:22 AM UTC-7, Pudge wrote:
Not sure if this is perfectly responsive, but here's an Atlantis (mine) with a 
Nitto Big Front Rack:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815789426/in/set-72157624427413755

It worked very well on a tour with a Wald basket zip-tied on, a small Berthoud 
handlebar bag above (with the Klik-Fix handlebar mount -- mount without bag is 
here: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815790104/in/set-72157624427413755/) 
and Arkel small panniers below.  Handled very nicely, though I may not be as 
sensitive to handling nuances as others on the list.

I believe I could have mounted without P-clamps, but the Paul brakes got in the 
way.  The picture shows where.


From: 
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.commailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.commailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com]
 On Behalf Of Darin G.
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:34 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.commailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

My Atlantis is built up and riding (gratuitous plug for Saturday Cycles in 
SLC).  An awesome dreadnaught of a bicycle.  I'm running a Nitto Mini-Front 
with a Berthoud bag and decaleur on the front.  I'm planning a tour and 
wondering what y'all use for a front touring rack.  I'm thinking of pulling the 
Mini off and going with the Nitto Big Front.  Seems the Berthoud bag would rest 
on it in fine, especially with the decaleur, and then I could hang the front 
panniers on as well.  But,...wondering if there is some other option where I 
could keep the Mini-Front and use some kind of clamp on low-rider (Tubus?  
Bruce Gordon?).  Is there a rack that would actually use the fork braze ons 
other than the Nitto?  Suggestions with illustrative photos appreciated.

D.G.

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Re: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

2012-04-18 Thread William
Thanks Tom, but you forget I need a 58.  Your 61 is all the more 
unattainably irresistable for that reason.  

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 7:32:19 AM UTC-7, Pudge wrote:

  If I could just finish my* *$%*%^#@^$% Rohloff-equipped Bombadil, maybe 
 I'd sell you the Atlantis.  But I haven't been able to make it work to my 
 satisfaction.  
  
 I haven't yet taped the bars on my SimpleOne, though -- if you need the 
 orange tape back (it's not available any more, right?), I'd be delighted to 
 sell it back to you at an appropriately inflated price.  ;-)
  
 Seriously, I like that color, but if you're pining for it, let me know, 
 and I'll shoot it back across our great nation.  I'm probably going to tape 
 the bars on that bike tonight.

  --
 *From:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:
 rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *William
 *Sent:* Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:26 AM
 *To:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 *Subject:* Re: [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

 Tom, why must you always taunt me with your pewter Atlantis?  The tax 
 return could buy it, and the build kit is 100% in place (including Nitto 
 Big Front and Rear racks).  The only thing I'm missing is cloth bar tape 
 (thanks in part to you), and the blasted frameset.  But the family unit 
 won't approve it.  Torture.  

 On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:56:22 AM UTC-7, Pudge wrote: 

  Not sure if this is perfectly responsive, but here's an Atlantis (mine) 
 with a Nitto Big Front Rack: 
  

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815789426/in/set-72157624427413755
  
  
 It worked very well on a tour with a Wald basket zip-tied on, a small 
 Berthoud handlebar bag above (with the Klik-Fix handlebar mount -- mount 
 without bag is here: 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815790104/in/set-72157624427413755/)
  
 and Arkel small panniers below.  Handled very nicely, though I may not be 
 as sensitive to handling nuances as others on the list.
  
 I believe I could have mounted without P-clamps, but the Paul brakes got 
 in the way.  The picture shows where.

  --
 *From:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:
 rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Darin G.
 *Sent:* Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:34 PM
 *To:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 *Subject:* [RBW] Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

 My Atlantis is built up and riding (gratuitous plug for Saturday Cycles 
 in SLC).  An awesome dreadnaught of a bicycle.  I'm running a Nitto 
 Mini-Front with a Berthoud bag and decaleur on the front.  I'm planning a 
 tour and wondering what y'all use for a front touring rack.  I'm thinking 
 of pulling the Mini off and going with the Nitto Big Front.  Seems the 
 Berthoud bag would rest on it in fine, especially with the decaleur, and 
 then I could hang the front panniers on as well.  But,...wondering if there 
 is some other option where I could keep the Mini-Front and use some kind of 
 clamp on low-rider (Tubus?  Bruce Gordon?).  Is there a rack that would 
 actually use the fork braze ons other than the Nitto?  Suggestions with 
 illustrative photos appreciated. 

 D.G.

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[RBW] Re: Platrack In Back

2012-04-18 Thread Peter Pesce
Thomas-

I was thinking the same thing myself. The Mark's rack comes with a 
additional pair of shorter, bent stays - if you look on the Riv site the 
photo of the rack installed in the rear is using these stays on the upper 
hourglass mounts. I don't recall my rack coming with the additional set of 
draw bolts, but per the Riv site they do, so mine must be in the parts box 
somewhere!

-Pete

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 7:36:52 AM UTC-4, Thomas Lynn Skean wrote:

 This I too shall try! Rhetorical question: perhaps there's a way of doing 
 it without the diving board?

 Yours,
 Thomas Lynn Skean


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[RBW] Re: Platrack In Back

2012-04-18 Thread Peter Pesce
... although, looking at the photo again, it appears that the Platrack 
bolts occupy the holes that the upper stays would use. The draw bolts might 
be long enough to go through both the MR and PR tabs... not sure.

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 11:00:25 AM UTC-4, Peter Pesce wrote:

 Thomas-

 I was thinking the same thing myself. The Mark's rack comes with a 
 additional pair of shorter, bent stays - if you look on the Riv site the 
 photo of the rack installed in the rear is using these stays on the upper 
 hourglass mounts. I don't recall my rack coming with the additional set of 
 draw bolts, but per the Riv site they do, so mine must be in the parts box 
 somewhere!

 -Pete

 On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 7:36:52 AM UTC-4, Thomas Lynn Skean wrote:

 This I too shall try! Rhetorical question: perhaps there's a way of doing 
 it without the diving board?

 Yours,
 Thomas Lynn Skean



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[RBW] Re: Albatross OR Bosco

2012-04-18 Thread Christian
Thanks a lot for the thoughts on the bars.  I now much better understand 
the differences.  

Best wishes,

Christian 

On Friday, April 13, 2012 8:21:51 AM UTC-4, Christian wrote:

 Hi everyone 

 I am in the market for a new set of bars.  I'd like to get either the 
 Bosco or the Albatross.  I've been following the progress of the Bosco and 
 have duly noted the high praise the Albatrosses receive.  I am sure I'd be 
 happy with either one.  But I wonder if someone could help me figure out 
 what the Bosco does that the Albatross does not do and vice versa.  Of 
 course from photos they do appear different yet they also fill a similar 
 need.  Thoughts?  

 If anyone has Albatrosses they're thinking of selling or trading let me 
 know--a long shot, to be sure.  I've got some newish Salsa Cowbells and a 
 some used On One Midges.  

 Thanks,

 Christian  


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[RBW] Re: pre-ordered a blue Sam Hillborne a few minutes ago

2012-04-18 Thread Mike
Thanks for the info Matt.

And to the original poster, I didn't mean to hijack the thread.
Congrats on the new bike. I'm sure you'll love it. Be sure to post
pictures once it arrives.

--mike

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[RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

2012-04-18 Thread Jim M.
On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 3:48:29 AM UTC-7, newenglandbike wrote:

 Another vote for the barley being a tad small.Good bag, but other than 
 tools/spare tube and a sweater you're not fitting much in there. For 
 Carradice, my faves are the camper and camper longflap.BUT you should 
 take a long hard look at a Saddlesack Medium or Large.   Those bags 
 combined with a nitto top rack are ridiculously useful and well designed.


In my experience the Barley is the perfect size for all day explores. I had 
a medium Saddlesack; it's a great bag but I found it much bigger than I 
would need for less than several days out. I pack light and live in N. 
California, which has some weather but generally nothing too extreme. I use 
a Hupe, but it's to keep the bag back; I don't need it for tire clearance.

jim m
wc ca

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[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?

2012-04-18 Thread pam
Which one  is the shifter bolt?  If I ask the LBS will they know which
one it is?  I do have the Silver shifters.  It is a 8 speed.  It only
skips occasionally - twice in 14 miles.  It's more an annoyance since
there are no squeaks or rattles otherwise.
Thanks,
Pam

On Apr 17, 8:07 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com
wrote:
 If it's skipping around the rear cluster with Silver shifters, I'd suggest
 making sure the shifter bolt is tight. Also, I find that these shifters are
 at their best with 7/8sp cassettes or freewheels. With 9sp, the ratcheting
 is too imprecise for my tastes, but others report apparently satisfactory
 performance.

 Otherwise, try to soft-pedal when shifting, shift before you NEED to shift,
 and try to shift gracefully and in a controlled way rather than slamming
 the shifter into position with a wild motion. Probably nobody has discussed
 the finer points of the process because there isn't much to discuss. It's
 pretty unsophisticated (don't tell anyone).







 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 6:45:28 PM UTC-5, Zack wrote:

  FD was from Riv, I had them do the setup last year when I got the bike.

  It would surprise me if I had already worn out either a chainring or a
  casette, only rode the Sam for the end of the summer until now, less than
  1,000 miles I would imagine.

  slipping on the cogs, not the rings.

  have read the sheldon article on chains, and also the one on chain slip.
   I tried some grease underneath the bb to see if that will help.

  was just more interested in riding tips than troubleshooting the derailer
  stuff, as I have seen lots of tips on the derailers but not much on the
  riding.

  On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:44:51 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote:

  I noticed a discussion cropping up in the New Chain Skipping thread
  that I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I
  have been thinking about it a bit -

  I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense to
  me - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i am not
  going to be able to get up the hill, i shift.

  But I never really learned the right way to do this.  I have learned a
  little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up on
  the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a
  dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource.  I know for
  many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to ride
  a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing.

  I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a
  triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I shift
  to either the big or small chainring.  I am cognizant of cross gearing, but
  am probably guilty of doing it once in a while.

  I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing chains
  (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which leads me
  to believe I am part of the problem.

  So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way it
  should be treated?

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[RBW] Small Betty

2012-04-18 Thread pam
Just wondering if anyone has an old Betty that you don't want.  My
daughter likes mine so much that she wants one.

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[RBW] Re: FS: 59cm Bleriot

2012-04-18 Thread pam
I'd buy it if it was my size.  I'm short.  I have a 47 cm Betty.

On Mar 27, 8:06 pm, Kris kkjellqu...@gmail.com wrote:
 My Bleriot is just not getting ridden enough and the poor guy is
 hanging on a hook all day.  I am the original owner and purchased
 directly from QBP when I worked at a shop.  I am only selling to
 finance the purchase of a Salsa Fargo.

 I am the original owner and it's in great condition.  It has the usual
 nicks but no significant scratches.  The Honjo fenders have some
 dings, but still look great!  There's some wear on the head badge as
 well.

 Build;
 59 cm Bleriot frame and fork
 Shimano 600 headset
 Nitto Randonneur bar
 Nitto Technomic 110 stem
 Shimano R600 50/34 cranks
 Shimano Ultegra FD
 Shimano 105 RD
 Shimano Dura Ace bar end shifters
 Tektro R556 side pull calipers
 Cane Creek brake levers
 Shimano LX/Velocity Synergy wheel set
 Nifty Swifty Tires
 Honjo Fenders
 Campagnolo Athena seatpost

 No pedals, saddle or cassette (which was used on my main road bike)

 $1300 + shipping - pics available for those interested.  I'm in
 Asheville, NC if someone local is interested.

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[RBW] Needed: Silver shifter square washer or replacement shifter

2012-04-18 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Am interested in trading for or buying, in order of preference: Silver
shifter square washer; replacement shifter mech minus pod; replacement
shifter mech with pod.

Thanks.

-- 

-
Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
-

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.

Ranier Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 59cm Bleriot

2012-04-18 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Yanking this thread violently in my own direction: RANT: about people
who, when they see a FS post, immediately scream, OH! I wannit! I
wannit!!! And then, after you patient answer questions and send
photos, disappear into the neant.

I don't mind people backing out. I've done it myself a few times. What
I mind is the rudeness that doesn't bother to ask, I've changed my
mind -- do you mind? and simply slinks off into the outer darkness
without another word. The few times I've backed out, I always ask if
the seller will permit me to do so and I append an offer to follow
through with the purchase if the seller insists. My request to change
my mind has not been turned down and the sellers all have seemed
willing to let me back out. I do this only rarely; usually, even when
I have second thoughts I go through with the promise to pay and
purchase.

Note: I believe that backing out of a commitment to buy even after
asking and being granted permission is at least slightly flakey, so I
am guilty thus far of flakiness myself, but just disappearing is not
excusable.

This does not happen only on the RBW list, of course, it's all over,
but it is damn'd rude!

Rant over; back to your regular programming.

On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 5:56 AM, Kris kkjellqu...@gmail.com wrote:
 Still available...thanks to an individual who appears to have flaked out the
 bike is now boxed and ready to ship.

 $1300 + shipping.

-

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.

Ranier Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory

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Re: [RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

2012-04-18 Thread PATRICK MOORE
+1 for the SQR. I've owned at least three, probably more, and have
sold them all after (cyclically) going back to rack+panniers, but I
agree that for a QR mount, for a saddle that does not have saddlebag
strap slots, and for bikes where you need to hold the bag high to gain
more clearance over the rear tire, the SQR is the best solution I've
found.

Note that it does have a 10 kg/22 lb weight limit (per Carradice).
Note also that you can, if you are careful and fastidious about
pulling the straps as tight as you can, easily mount a saddlebag on
the rails of a non-Brooks saddle -- the Hoss on my trike is so mounted
and carries 30 lb loads easily and well.

On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 3:55 PM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote:
 Carradice Barley and the Acorn Boxy Rando Bag are my two main bags.  You can
 fit an amazing amount of stuff into a Barley Bag.  I use mine with the
 Carradice SQR, which I also really like but I think if your bike is tall
 enough with enough seatpost to keep the bag off the fender or tire I  you
 could get along without a support.  Carradice makes a bag support that
 attaches to the saddle rails but I'm not sure if that would work with a
 sprung saddle, and some people have reported difficulty keeping it tight..
  The SQR attaches to the seat post and is absolutely the quickest on  off
 the bike you can get.  I have an extra seat post attachment so I can move
 the bag between bikes.  Harris Cycles carries all the parts.  BTW, the
 Carradice site could lead you to believe that the SQR goes with an SQR
 designed bag; that's not true, almost any bag with saddle  seatpost straps
 will work.   It does allow some back and forth movement which I notice while
 climbing standing up, but there is no lateral movement at all.

 Short answer... a great bag.

 Michael


 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 5:36:31 PM UTC-4, Peter M wrote:

 Thinking of getting a Carradice Barley saddlebag but wanted to ask if
 anyone here is running one currently and how they like it. Also do you
 need a bag support with this thing like the now discontinued Hupe, and
 will it work with a sprung Brooks like the B72? Thanks to any help
 anyone can offer.

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http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
-

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.

Ranier Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory

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[RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

2012-04-18 Thread Greg J
Peter, 

Only you can decide whether it is too small for your intended purpose.  I 
have a Barley, a Lowsaddle Longflap, and a Nelson LF, and they all have 
different uses.  The Barley is good for a day trip to bring extra clothing, 
some food, books, etc.  Not really for carrying groceries or such.  But, 
you will likely not need a rack or other support for it.  It is small 
enough that if you ride a bike bigger than 52 or so, it probably won't rub 
the tire, and because of its size, you will probably not load it too 
heavily.

I ride ~54 bikes, and I use a SQR for my LSLF.

Greg

On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 2:36:31 PM UTC-7, Peter M wrote:

 Thinking of getting a Carradice Barley saddlebag but wanted to ask if 
 anyone here is running one currently and how they like it. Also do you 
 need a bag support with this thing like the now discontinued Hupe, and 
 will it work with a sprung Brooks like the B72? Thanks to any help 
 anyone can offer.

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[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?

2012-04-18 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
It's the little loop bolt that attaches the shifter to the frame or to the 
bar-end pod. You can tighten it with your fingers. Your LBS will know 
exactly what to do, if you ask.

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 11:03:25 AM UTC-5, pam wrote:

 Which one  is the shifter bolt?  If I ask the LBS will they know which 
 one it is?  I do have the Silver shifters.  It is a 8 speed.  It only 
 skips occasionally - twice in 14 miles.  It's more an annoyance since 
 there are no squeaks or rattles otherwise. 
 Thanks, 
 Pam 

 On Apr 17, 8:07 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com 
 wrote: 
  If it's skipping around the rear cluster with Silver shifters, I'd 
 suggest 
  making sure the shifter bolt is tight. Also, I find that these shifters 
 are 
  at their best with 7/8sp cassettes or freewheels. With 9sp, the 
 ratcheting 
  is too imprecise for my tastes, but others report apparently 
 satisfactory 
  performance. 
  
  Otherwise, try to soft-pedal when shifting, shift before you NEED to 
 shift, 
  and try to shift gracefully and in a controlled way rather than slamming 
  the shifter into position with a wild motion. Probably nobody has 
 discussed 
  the finer points of the process because there isn't much to discuss. 
 It's 
  pretty unsophisticated (don't tell anyone). 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 6:45:28 PM UTC-5, Zack wrote: 
  
   FD was from Riv, I had them do the setup last year when I got the 
 bike. 
  
   It would surprise me if I had already worn out either a chainring or a 
   casette, only rode the Sam for the end of the summer until now, less 
 than 
   1,000 miles I would imagine. 
  
   slipping on the cogs, not the rings. 
  
   have read the sheldon article on chains, and also the one on chain 
 slip. 
I tried some grease underneath the bb to see if that will help. 
  
   was just more interested in riding tips than troubleshooting the 
 derailer 
   stuff, as I have seen lots of tips on the derailers but not much on 
 the 
   riding. 
  
   On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:44:51 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote: 
  
   I noticed a discussion cropping up in the New Chain Skipping thread 
   that I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, 
 as I 
   have been thinking about it a bit - 
  
   I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense 
 to 
   me - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i 
 am not 
   going to be able to get up the hill, i shift. 
  
   But I never really learned the right way to do this.  I have 
 learned a 
   little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up 
 on 
   the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen 
 a 
   dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource.  I know 
 for 
   many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to 
 ride 
   a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing. 
  
   I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a 
   triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I 
 shift 
   to either the big or small chainring.  I am cognizant of cross 
 gearing, but 
   am probably guilty of doing it once in a while. 
  
   I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing 
 chains 
   (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which 
 leads me 
   to believe I am part of the problem. 
  
   So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way 
 it 
   should be treated?

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[RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

2012-04-18 Thread cyclotour...@gmail.com
I have a bit of Goldilocks syndrome w/ tires. I know the perfect one has to 
be out there somewhere... I've run thousands of miles with Rollies/Tuffies 
and a few hundred w/ Grand Bois (both 27 and 30mm). The GBs feel absolutely 
divine. Like *nothing *else out there. But more goat head punctures than 
normal, and chunks were quickly being taken out of the tires. Just too 
delicate for *my *needs. The RP/RTs in comparison *feel *clunky and the RTs 
in particular are noticeably slower (non-scientific coasting test down my 
street). Over time the tread also separates from the casing, but that may 
be particular to my situation. 

To be honest, I haven't found a perfect tire smaller than 33.3mm. Both Jack 
Brown Greens and Pasela 35mm are absolutely fantastic for me, minus 
goathead protection (and that's w/ TourGuard tires). I just had a puncture 
last night from one of them. The JBs slow my steering a little bit on my 
go-fast bike built for 28mm, but that's the only issue I've had with them. 
I don't know if that's due to extra mass or change in pneumatic trail from 
the extra ~5mm.

In the end you're just going to have to put some $$$ out and try to find 
what works for you. If it doesn't fit your needs, you can easily re-sell 
the tires and try something else.

On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 12:55:06 PM UTC-7, Mojo wrote:

 Prompted by this thread I changed out the Rolly Poly/Ruffy Tuffy 
 front/rear combo on my road bike wheels to the pair of (what I have 
 considered to be special event) Grand Bois Cerf 28mm tires. I rode them for 
 25 mountainy miles yesterday and enjoyed their feel immensely. Today I got 
 a front goathead flat. This is the 3rd flat I have had on these tires in 
 about a dozen rides. This is by far the worst flat record of any tire I 
 have used, ever. I understand I cannot say this will be the flat record for 
 me in the future or for you in your environment, but my faith in the tire 
 is shaken and it affects the enjoyment of my ride. I am putting more effort 
 into scanning the road or trying to stay off the dirtier portions of the 
 road instead of enjoying the view or thinking my deep thoughts. {~; 
 .
 When I got home I fixed the flat, pulled the GB Cerfs and replaced them 
 with the RP/RT combo. As I was changing them, I weighed them on my Park 
 digital spring scale. To the nearest ounce, the Cerf was 10oz, Rolly 
 Poly 11oz, Ruffy Tuffy 13oz, Jack Brown Green 33mm was 12-13oz. All of 
 these tires are made by Panasonic. Now I believe Jan Heine's rollout tire 
 comparisons are valid. But for me to flat every second or third ride is 
 just not worth the lower rolling resistance or an ounce or two of rotating 
 weight. 

  


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[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?

2012-04-18 Thread Ryan Ray
I'm a friction noob too but some things that helped me:


   - Move to a compact double. Seriously. I have one less gear I didn't 
   need anyway and I fiddle with my shifters 90% less. Anyone who says a 
   triple in front is just as easy as a double hash been riding bikes for a 
   very long time, or loves their set up so much they refuse to realize the 
   added complexity.
   - Know that even with brifters triples are annoying
   - Friction shifting can be like driving a manual. You learn to shift at 
   the right speed, at the right time. Faster is not best.
   - Shift less.
   - Good shifters are allot better than crappy ones. I have Shimanos which 
   are OK. I want Silvers which I tried the other day and liked allot better. 
   Old school Suntour Ratchets were good too.
   - A unified drivetrain helps. Some people can cobble together all softs 
   of parts and friction shift just fine. In fact it's the reason some people 
   prefer friction. I however found my all 8-speed set up to be nearly 
   flawless. I had lots of mis shifting with a mixed up drivetrain.
   - Rapid rise derailler. In hilly Seattle this really helps me shift 
   uphills.
   - Like everything: practice.
   - If you can over/under shift your chain off gears and you corrected 
   your adjustment screws then either* something is broken* or not set up 
   right. The older... *ahem* wiser folks can't remember how tricky adjustment 
   screws can be when first learning how to set this stuff up. It takes 
   practice or someone really showing you how to do it.

I hope any of this helps. It may be stuff that only worked for me but now I 
could never go back to indexed shifting.

- Ryan







On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 1:44:51 PM UTC-7, Zack wrote:

 I noticed a discussion cropping up in the New Chain Skipping thread that 
 I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I have 
 been thinking about it a bit - 

 I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense to me 
 - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i am not 
 going to be able to get up the hill, i shift.  

 But I never really learned the right way to do this.  I have learned a 
 little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up on 
 the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a 
 dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource.  I know for 
 many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to ride 
 a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing.

 I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a 
 triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I shift 
 to either the big or small chainring.  I am cognizant of cross gearing, but 
 am probably guilty of doing it once in a while.

 I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing chains 
 (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which leads me 
 to believe I am part of the problem.

 So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way it 
 should be treated?




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[RBW] Re: Small Betty

2012-04-18 Thread cyclotour...@gmail.com
Smart kid!

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 9:05:30 AM UTC-7, pam wrote:

 Just wondering if anyone has an old Betty that you don't want.  My 
 daughter likes mine so much that she wants one.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Arkel bags and Dapper Dan grips

2012-04-18 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean
Hi!

Dapper Dan light are gone
 
still available are
 
Arkel Big Bar Bag
Dapper Dan dark

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

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[RBW] Re: Needed: Silver shifter square washer or replacement shifter

2012-04-18 Thread William
When you say pod, that tells me you are asking about Silver Shifters in the 
barcon configuration.  The square washer for a barcon configuration and the 
square washer for a downtube configuration are two different things, so you 
should specify in your request.  Although the downtube version is soft 
aluminum and can be easily filed down to resemble the barcon version.  

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 9:08:04 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Am interested in trading for or buying, in order of preference: Silver
 shifter square washer; replacement shifter mech minus pod; replacement
 shifter mech with pod.

 Thanks.

 -- 

 -
 Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 -

 A billion stars go spinning through the night
 Blazing high above your head;
 But in you is the Presence that will be
 When all the stars are dead.

 Ranier Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory



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[RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

2012-04-18 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
MichaelH illustrates how little difference it makes. Three minutes is his 
largest variation in his 18 mile ride on a variety of different tires with 
different bikes, and that variation wasn't even reproducible in a second 
trial. I spent seven years in grad school doing science, so I can see that 
there are confounding factors in Michael's research that muddy the waters. 
But his over all consistency from tire to tire and bike to bike suggests 
(if not proves) that tire differences play much less role than, say, the 
rider's day to day energy level and attitude, wind direction, and countless 
other factors. Comparing one lightweight 700x28 tire to another is really 
splitting hairs. 

On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 7:16:05 PM UTC-5, MichaelH wrote:

 Another single data point.

 Along with the post on where the Rambouillet fit in the Riv line up, I 
 rode an 18 mile loop from my home on my Ram with a pair of Continental GP4, 
 23 mm tires.  (A gift).  The course has 900 feet of climbing and includes 
 4-5 miles of dirt roads, with the rest equally divided among good pavement, 
 bad pavement, and atrocious pavement.  After the ride I recorded my time  
 subjective impressions (painful).  I also discovered a cut  in the sidewall 
 of the rear tire, so I decide to replicate the ride with a variety of bikes 
 and ties.  I rode it twice on my Ebisu with Jack Browns.  The first ride 
 was 3 minutes slower but the second was identical, although a lot more 
 comfortable. I rode it once with my Trek  T Serve  (30mm actual).  My time 
 was right between the faster and slower rides  the comfort just a nudge 
 below the JB.  Now the wind has shifted around from the south to the west ( 
 it has been blowing at 20 -25 mph, making this very real world test) and 
 the dirt road has been graded, leaving it's surface full of rocks and loose 
 sand, so it's really hard going now.  Hard to make comparisons.  I'm in 
 Boston for the weekend and heavy rain forecasted for next week so this test 
 will be suspended for a while.

 I'm not sure where this leaves me.  I'd like to put the Grand Bois Green 
 on my ram but am wondering if the perceived advantage is worth the added 
 flats.

 Michael

 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:29:48 PM UTC-4, William wrote:

 I'm in the same boat with Pari-Motos.  I flat almost every ride with 
 Pari-Motos, and almost never with anything else.  I've put them back on 
 with Foss tubes to try again.  I like the ride of them, but the flat record 
 is pretty bad for me.  For me it's been glass.  

 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 12:55:06 PM UTC-7, Mojo wrote:

 Prompted by this thread I changed out the Rolly Poly/Ruffy Tuffy 
 front/rear combo on my road bike wheels to the pair of (what I have 
 considered to be special event) Grand Bois Cerf 28mm tires. I rode them for 
 25 mountainy miles yesterday and enjoyed their feel immensely. Today I got 
 a front goathead flat. This is the 3rd flat I have had on these tires in 
 about a dozen rides. This is by far the worst flat record of any tire I 
 have used, ever. I understand I cannot say this will be the flat record for 
 me in the future or for you in your environment, but my faith in the tire 
 is shaken and it affects the enjoyment of my ride. I am putting more effort 
 into scanning the road or trying to stay off the dirtier portions of the 
 road instead of enjoying the view or thinking my deep thoughts. {~; 
 .
 When I got home I fixed the flat, pulled the GB Cerfs and replaced them 
 with the RP/RT combo. As I was changing them, I weighed them on my Park 
 digital spring scale. To the nearest ounce, the Cerf was 10oz, Rolly 
 Poly 11oz, Ruffy Tuffy 13oz, Jack Brown Green 33mm was 12-13oz. All of 
 these tires are made by Panasonic. Now I believe Jan Heine's rollout tire 
 comparisons are valid. But for me to flat every second or third ride is 
 just not worth the lower rolling resistance or an ounce or two of rotating 
 weight. 

  



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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 59cm Bleriot

2012-04-18 Thread Kris
I've had 4 people who seemed genuinely interested;
 
1. read the RBW sizing bits, learned it wouldn't fit and let me know right 
away
2. couldn't come up with the funds and politely backed out
3. partner was attacked by a pit bull (!!) and had to back out for $$ and 
obvious reasons
 
all of the above are perfectly reasonable
 
4. agreed to pay set price, all set to end eBay auction, was away from 
computer and would pay in a few hours.THEN NOTHING...vanished into 
thin air!!  I even spent an hour boxing the bike!  Now I'll have to rebuild 
it to sell localUGH!!!  
 
You could write back and sayya know I actually think the bike is ugly 
and 650b sucks and I wouldn't care, but just write the stinking email!!  I 
don't know how people act like thisw/ gmail, Google+, FB, etc it's 
pretty easy to find them.
 
//end my rant
 
 

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 12:15:58 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Yanking this thread violently in my own direction: RANT: about people
 who, when they see a FS post, immediately scream, OH! I wannit! I
 wannit!!! And then, after you patient answer questions and send
 photos, disappear into the neant. 

  

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[RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

2012-04-18 Thread Ryan Ray
You can say that every post on this group ever has been splitting hairs. 
It's part of the fun :)

- Ryan





On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:03:07 AM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
Cyclery wrote:

 MichaelH illustrates how little difference it makes. Three minutes is his 
 largest variation in his 18 mile ride on a variety of different tires with 
 different bikes, and that variation wasn't even reproducible in a second 
 trial. I spent seven years in grad school doing science, so I can see that 
 there are confounding factors in Michael's research that muddy the waters. 
 But his over all consistency from tire to tire and bike to bike suggests 
 (if not proves) that tire differences play much less role than, say, the 
 rider's day to day energy level and attitude, wind direction, and countless 
 other factors. Comparing one lightweight 700x28 tire to another is really 
 splitting hairs. 

 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 7:16:05 PM UTC-5, MichaelH wrote:

 Another single data point.

 Along with the post on where the Rambouillet fit in the Riv line up, I 
 rode an 18 mile loop from my home on my Ram with a pair of Continental GP4, 
 23 mm tires.  (A gift).  The course has 900 feet of climbing and includes 
 4-5 miles of dirt roads, with the rest equally divided among good pavement, 
 bad pavement, and atrocious pavement.  After the ride I recorded my time  
 subjective impressions (painful).  I also discovered a cut  in the sidewall 
 of the rear tire, so I decide to replicate the ride with a variety of bikes 
 and ties.  I rode it twice on my Ebisu with Jack Browns.  The first ride 
 was 3 minutes slower but the second was identical, although a lot more 
 comfortable. I rode it once with my Trek  T Serve  (30mm actual).  My time 
 was right between the faster and slower rides  the comfort just a nudge 
 below the JB.  Now the wind has shifted around from the south to the west ( 
 it has been blowing at 20 -25 mph, making this very real world test) and 
 the dirt road has been graded, leaving it's surface full of rocks and loose 
 sand, so it's really hard going now.  Hard to make comparisons.  I'm in 
 Boston for the weekend and heavy rain forecasted for next week so this test 
 will be suspended for a while.

 I'm not sure where this leaves me.  I'd like to put the Grand Bois Green 
 on my ram but am wondering if the perceived advantage is worth the added 
 flats.

 Michael

 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:29:48 PM UTC-4, William wrote:

 I'm in the same boat with Pari-Motos.  I flat almost every ride with 
 Pari-Motos, and almost never with anything else.  I've put them back on 
 with Foss tubes to try again.  I like the ride of them, but the flat record 
 is pretty bad for me.  For me it's been glass.  

 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 12:55:06 PM UTC-7, Mojo wrote:

 Prompted by this thread I changed out the Rolly Poly/Ruffy Tuffy 
 front/rear combo on my road bike wheels to the pair of (what I have 
 considered to be special event) Grand Bois Cerf 28mm tires. I rode them 
 for 
 25 mountainy miles yesterday and enjoyed their feel immensely. Today I got 
 a front goathead flat. This is the 3rd flat I have had on these tires in 
 about a dozen rides. This is by far the worst flat record of any tire I 
 have used, ever. I understand I cannot say this will be the flat record 
 for 
 me in the future or for you in your environment, but my faith in the tire 
 is shaken and it affects the enjoyment of my ride. I am putting more 
 effort 
 into scanning the road or trying to stay off the dirtier portions of the 
 road instead of enjoying the view or thinking my deep thoughts. {~; 
 .
 When I got home I fixed the flat, pulled the GB Cerfs and replaced them 
 with the RP/RT combo. As I was changing them, I weighed them on my Park 
 digital spring scale. To the nearest ounce, the Cerf was 10oz, Rolly 
 Poly 11oz, Ruffy Tuffy 13oz, Jack Brown Green 33mm was 12-13oz. All of 
 these tires are made by Panasonic. Now I believe Jan Heine's rollout tire 
 comparisons are valid. But for me to flat every second or third ride is 
 just not worth the lower rolling resistance or an ounce or two of rotating 
 weight. 

  



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[RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

2012-04-18 Thread William
agreed.  Even Jan Heine admits that the perception of speed is far stronger 
than any measurable speed difference in this hair-splitting area.  He rides 
quality fat tires because he knows empirically that they are no slower at 
worst and slightly faster at best.  He concedes that narrow tires feel 
faster despite the measurable fact that they are not.  I remember that 
every time I see a post I rode those tires for a while, but they were 
sluggish and slow.  19 times out of 20, that's a qualitative judgement, 
not a quantitative one.  

I've been tempted to ask Jan since going fast is fun (for the most part), 
but since going slow is safe (for the most part), shouldn't he run skinny 
tires, since they feel fast but are slow?  I know, I'm a jerk, and a smart 
aleck.  

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:03:07 AM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
Cyclery wrote:

 MichaelH illustrates how little difference it makes. Three minutes is his 
 largest variation in his 18 mile ride on a variety of different tires with 
 different bikes, and that variation wasn't even reproducible in a second 
 trial. I spent seven years in grad school doing science, so I can see that 
 there are confounding factors in Michael's research that muddy the waters. 
 But his over all consistency from tire to tire and bike to bike suggests 
 (if not proves) that tire differences play much less role than, say, the 
 rider's day to day energy level and attitude, wind direction, and countless 
 other factors. Comparing one lightweight 700x28 tire to another is really 
 splitting hairs. 

 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 7:16:05 PM UTC-5, MichaelH wrote:

 Another single data point.

 Along with the post on where the Rambouillet fit in the Riv line up, I 
 rode an 18 mile loop from my home on my Ram with a pair of Continental GP4, 
 23 mm tires.  (A gift).  The course has 900 feet of climbing and includes 
 4-5 miles of dirt roads, with the rest equally divided among good pavement, 
 bad pavement, and atrocious pavement.  After the ride I recorded my time  
 subjective impressions (painful).  I also discovered a cut  in the sidewall 
 of the rear tire, so I decide to replicate the ride with a variety of bikes 
 and ties.  I rode it twice on my Ebisu with Jack Browns.  The first ride 
 was 3 minutes slower but the second was identical, although a lot more 
 comfortable. I rode it once with my Trek  T Serve  (30mm actual).  My time 
 was right between the faster and slower rides  the comfort just a nudge 
 below the JB.  Now the wind has shifted around from the south to the west ( 
 it has been blowing at 20 -25 mph, making this very real world test) and 
 the dirt road has been graded, leaving it's surface full of rocks and loose 
 sand, so it's really hard going now.  Hard to make comparisons.  I'm in 
 Boston for the weekend and heavy rain forecasted for next week so this test 
 will be suspended for a while.

 I'm not sure where this leaves me.  I'd like to put the Grand Bois Green 
 on my ram but am wondering if the perceived advantage is worth the added 
 flats.

 Michael

 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:29:48 PM UTC-4, William wrote:

 I'm in the same boat with Pari-Motos.  I flat almost every ride with 
 Pari-Motos, and almost never with anything else.  I've put them back on 
 with Foss tubes to try again.  I like the ride of them, but the flat record 
 is pretty bad for me.  For me it's been glass.  

 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 12:55:06 PM UTC-7, Mojo wrote:

 Prompted by this thread I changed out the Rolly Poly/Ruffy Tuffy 
 front/rear combo on my road bike wheels to the pair of (what I have 
 considered to be special event) Grand Bois Cerf 28mm tires. I rode them 
 for 
 25 mountainy miles yesterday and enjoyed their feel immensely. Today I got 
 a front goathead flat. This is the 3rd flat I have had on these tires in 
 about a dozen rides. This is by far the worst flat record of any tire I 
 have used, ever. I understand I cannot say this will be the flat record 
 for 
 me in the future or for you in your environment, but my faith in the tire 
 is shaken and it affects the enjoyment of my ride. I am putting more 
 effort 
 into scanning the road or trying to stay off the dirtier portions of the 
 road instead of enjoying the view or thinking my deep thoughts. {~; 
 .
 When I got home I fixed the flat, pulled the GB Cerfs and replaced them 
 with the RP/RT combo. As I was changing them, I weighed them on my Park 
 digital spring scale. To the nearest ounce, the Cerf was 10oz, Rolly 
 Poly 11oz, Ruffy Tuffy 13oz, Jack Brown Green 33mm was 12-13oz. All of 
 these tires are made by Panasonic. Now I believe Jan Heine's rollout tire 
 comparisons are valid. But for me to flat every second or third ride is 
 just not worth the lower rolling resistance or an ounce or two of rotating 
 weight. 

  



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[RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

2012-04-18 Thread cyclotour...@gmail.com
It's what the interwebs were built for!


On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:07:07 AM UTC-7, HappyCamper wrote:

 You can say that every post on this group ever has been splitting hairs. 
 It's part of the fun :)

 - Ryan





 On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:03:07 AM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
 Cyclery wrote:

 MichaelH illustrates how little difference it makes. Three minutes is his 
 largest variation in his 18 mile ride on a variety of different tires with 
 different bikes, and that variation wasn't even reproducible in a second 
 trial. I spent seven years in grad school doing science, so I can see that 
 there are confounding factors in Michael's research that muddy the waters. 
 But his over all consistency from tire to tire and bike to bike suggests 
 (if not proves) that tire differences play much less role than, say, the 
 rider's day to day energy level and attitude, wind direction, and countless 
 other factors. Comparing one lightweight 700x28 tire to another is really 
 splitting hairs. 

 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 7:16:05 PM UTC-5, MichaelH wrote:

 Another single data point.

 Along with the post on where the Rambouillet fit in the Riv line up, I 
 rode an 18 mile loop from my home on my Ram with a pair of Continental GP4, 
 23 mm tires.  (A gift).  The course has 900 feet of climbing and includes 
 4-5 miles of dirt roads, with the rest equally divided among good pavement, 
 bad pavement, and atrocious pavement.  After the ride I recorded my time  
 subjective impressions (painful).  I also discovered a cut  in the sidewall 
 of the rear tire, so I decide to replicate the ride with a variety of bikes 
 and ties.  I rode it twice on my Ebisu with Jack Browns.  The first ride 
 was 3 minutes slower but the second was identical, although a lot more 
 comfortable. I rode it once with my Trek  T Serve  (30mm actual).  My time 
 was right between the faster and slower rides  the comfort just a nudge 
 below the JB.  Now the wind has shifted around from the south to the west ( 
 it has been blowing at 20 -25 mph, making this very real world test) and 
 the dirt road has been graded, leaving it's surface full of rocks and loose 
 sand, so it's really hard going now.  Hard to make comparisons.  I'm in 
 Boston for the weekend and heavy rain forecasted for next week so this test 
 will be suspended for a while.

 I'm not sure where this leaves me.  I'd like to put the Grand Bois Green 
 on my ram but am wondering if the perceived advantage is worth the added 
 flats.

 Michael

 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:29:48 PM UTC-4, William wrote:

 I'm in the same boat with Pari-Motos.  I flat almost every ride with 
 Pari-Motos, and almost never with anything else.  I've put them back on 
 with Foss tubes to try again.  I like the ride of them, but the flat 
 record 
 is pretty bad for me.  For me it's been glass.  

 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 12:55:06 PM UTC-7, Mojo wrote:

 Prompted by this thread I changed out the Rolly Poly/Ruffy Tuffy 
 front/rear combo on my road bike wheels to the pair of (what I have 
 considered to be special event) Grand Bois Cerf 28mm tires. I rode them 
 for 
 25 mountainy miles yesterday and enjoyed their feel immensely. Today I 
 got 
 a front goathead flat. This is the 3rd flat I have had on these tires in 
 about a dozen rides. This is by far the worst flat record of any tire I 
 have used, ever. I understand I cannot say this will be the flat record 
 for 
 me in the future or for you in your environment, but my faith in the tire 
 is shaken and it affects the enjoyment of my ride. I am putting more 
 effort 
 into scanning the road or trying to stay off the dirtier portions of the 
 road instead of enjoying the view or thinking my deep thoughts. {~; 
 .
 When I got home I fixed the flat, pulled the GB Cerfs and replaced 
 them with the RP/RT combo. As I was changing them, I weighed them on my 
 Park digital spring scale. To the nearest ounce, the Cerf was 10oz, Rolly 
 Poly 11oz, Ruffy Tuffy 13oz, Jack Brown Green 33mm was 12-13oz. All of 
 these tires are made by Panasonic. Now I believe Jan Heine's rollout tire 
 comparisons are valid. But for me to flat every second or third ride is 
 just not worth the lower rolling resistance or an ounce or two of 
 rotating 
 weight. 

  



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[RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

2012-04-18 Thread William
Perhaps we should develop our own quantitative metric for the narrowness of 
the hair being split?  Inspired by the well known engineering unit the RCH. 
 

SHPI -- splittable hairs per inch?  

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:07:07 AM UTC-7, HappyCamper wrote:

 You can say that every post on this group ever has been splitting hairs. 
 It's part of the fun :)

 - Ryan





 On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:03:07 AM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
 Cyclery wrote:

 MichaelH illustrates how little difference it makes. Three minutes is his 
 largest variation in his 18 mile ride on a variety of different tires with 
 different bikes, and that variation wasn't even reproducible in a second 
 trial. I spent seven years in grad school doing science, so I can see that 
 there are confounding factors in Michael's research that muddy the waters. 
 But his over all consistency from tire to tire and bike to bike suggests 
 (if not proves) that tire differences play much less role than, say, the 
 rider's day to day energy level and attitude, wind direction, and countless 
 other factors. Comparing one lightweight 700x28 tire to another is really 
 splitting hairs. 

 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 7:16:05 PM UTC-5, MichaelH wrote:

 Another single data point.

 Along with the post on where the Rambouillet fit in the Riv line up, I 
 rode an 18 mile loop from my home on my Ram with a pair of Continental GP4, 
 23 mm tires.  (A gift).  The course has 900 feet of climbing and includes 
 4-5 miles of dirt roads, with the rest equally divided among good pavement, 
 bad pavement, and atrocious pavement.  After the ride I recorded my time  
 subjective impressions (painful).  I also discovered a cut  in the sidewall 
 of the rear tire, so I decide to replicate the ride with a variety of bikes 
 and ties.  I rode it twice on my Ebisu with Jack Browns.  The first ride 
 was 3 minutes slower but the second was identical, although a lot more 
 comfortable. I rode it once with my Trek  T Serve  (30mm actual).  My time 
 was right between the faster and slower rides  the comfort just a nudge 
 below the JB.  Now the wind has shifted around from the south to the west ( 
 it has been blowing at 20 -25 mph, making this very real world test) and 
 the dirt road has been graded, leaving it's surface full of rocks and loose 
 sand, so it's really hard going now.  Hard to make comparisons.  I'm in 
 Boston for the weekend and heavy rain forecasted for next week so this test 
 will be suspended for a while.

 I'm not sure where this leaves me.  I'd like to put the Grand Bois Green 
 on my ram but am wondering if the perceived advantage is worth the added 
 flats.

 Michael

 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:29:48 PM UTC-4, William wrote:

 I'm in the same boat with Pari-Motos.  I flat almost every ride with 
 Pari-Motos, and almost never with anything else.  I've put them back on 
 with Foss tubes to try again.  I like the ride of them, but the flat 
 record 
 is pretty bad for me.  For me it's been glass.  

 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 12:55:06 PM UTC-7, Mojo wrote:

 Prompted by this thread I changed out the Rolly Poly/Ruffy Tuffy 
 front/rear combo on my road bike wheels to the pair of (what I have 
 considered to be special event) Grand Bois Cerf 28mm tires. I rode them 
 for 
 25 mountainy miles yesterday and enjoyed their feel immensely. Today I 
 got 
 a front goathead flat. This is the 3rd flat I have had on these tires in 
 about a dozen rides. This is by far the worst flat record of any tire I 
 have used, ever. I understand I cannot say this will be the flat record 
 for 
 me in the future or for you in your environment, but my faith in the tire 
 is shaken and it affects the enjoyment of my ride. I am putting more 
 effort 
 into scanning the road or trying to stay off the dirtier portions of the 
 road instead of enjoying the view or thinking my deep thoughts. {~; 
 .
 When I got home I fixed the flat, pulled the GB Cerfs and replaced 
 them with the RP/RT combo. As I was changing them, I weighed them on my 
 Park digital spring scale. To the nearest ounce, the Cerf was 10oz, Rolly 
 Poly 11oz, Ruffy Tuffy 13oz, Jack Brown Green 33mm was 12-13oz. All of 
 these tires are made by Panasonic. Now I believe Jan Heine's rollout tire 
 comparisons are valid. But for me to flat every second or third ride is 
 just not worth the lower rolling resistance or an ounce or two of 
 rotating 
 weight. 

  



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[RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

2012-04-18 Thread Philip Williamson
Hi Peter,
The Barley is the smallest Carradice bag. I use the Cadet, and think the 
Barley would be too small for me. 

I made some illustrations of the relative sizes of the smaller bags:
http://www.biketinker.com/2011/bike-resources/relative-sizes-of-smaller-carradice-bags/
 
The next size up from the Cadet (last shown), is the Nelson Lowsaddle, 
which adds side pockets.

 Philip

Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com

On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 2:36:31 PM UTC-7, Peter M wrote:

 Thinking of getting a Carradice Barley saddlebag but wanted to ask if 
 anyone here is running one currently and how they like it. Also do you 
 need a bag support with this thing like the now discontinued Hupe, and 
 will it work with a sprung Brooks like the B72? Thanks to any help 
 anyone can offer.

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Re: [RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

2012-04-18 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2012-04-18 at 10:09 -0700, William wrote:

 
 I've been tempted to ask Jan since going fast is fun (for the most
 part), but since going slow is safe (for the most part), shouldn't he
 run skinny tires, since they feel fast but are slow?  I know, I'm a
 jerk, and a smart aleck.  

Perhaps you missed these blog postings:

-http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/03/07/crossing-tracks-safely/
-http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/01/30/the-downsides-of-wide-tires/
-http://janheine.wordpress.com/2011/08/30/the-dangers-of-narrow-tires/



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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 59cm Bleriot

2012-04-18 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
Believe it or not, there are a lot of flakes who are into bikes in the 
world. My fave was a guy who called several times to talk to me for a 
combined maybe 2+ hours about a Bleriot. I somehow let the word Quickbeam 
out of my mouth, and that got him to asking questions about that model. His 
questions carried the implication that he was going to buy a Bleriot from 
me. Anyway, after all that, maybe 2 weeks later, he called to thank me for 
my patience in answering his hundreds of neurotic questions, but informed 
me delightedly that he'd purchased it cheaper from one of the internet bike 
shops who was selling the Bleriot just over cost back in those days. Not to 
worry, he vowed to buy fenders from me. The conversation was ended, um, 
hastily. If it had happened in person rather than on the phone, I think I 
would have run him out the door with some forceful language and perhaps a 
kick in the pants. After that, I considered instituting a consulting fee, 
creditable toward whatever bike purchase may result, when I sensed the 
conversation was dragging on with no purchase in sight. But it seems bad 
form to ask for money just for talking to a customer...unless you're a 
lawyer or medical type.

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 12:06:35 PM UTC-5, Kris wrote:

 I've had 4 people who seemed genuinely interested;
  
 1. read the RBW sizing bits, learned it wouldn't fit and let me know right 
 away
 2. couldn't come up with the funds and politely backed out
 3. partner was attacked by a pit bull (!!) and had to back out for $$ and 
 obvious reasons
  
 all of the above are perfectly reasonable
  
 4. agreed to pay set price, all set to end eBay auction, was away from 
 computer and would pay in a few hours.THEN NOTHING...vanished into 
 thin air!!  I even spent an hour boxing the bike!  Now I'll have to rebuild 
 it to sell localUGH!!!  
  
 You could write back and sayya know I actually think the bike is ugly 
 and 650b sucks and I wouldn't care, but just write the stinking email!!  I 
 don't know how people act like thisw/ gmail, Google+, FB, etc it's 
 pretty easy to find them.
  
 //end my rant
  
  

 On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 12:15:58 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Yanking this thread violently in my own direction: RANT: about people
 who, when they see a FS post, immediately scream, OH! I wannit! I
 wannit!!! And then, after you patient answer questions and send
 photos, disappear into the neant. 

  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Needed: Silver shifter square washer or replacement shifter

2012-04-18 Thread Joe Broach
On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 9:47 AM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 When you say pod, that tells me you are asking about Silver Shifters in the
 barcon configuration.

Good point! I have spare left and right downtube square washers--the
ones with limit stops for the shifters.

 should specify in your request.  Although the downtube version is soft
 aluminum and can be easily filed down to resemble the barcon version.

Now I'm confused. Mine are steel, square holes, little limit stop
nubs, left and right side specific. There's nothing like them in my
bar end shifters.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or

 On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 9:08:04 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Am interested in trading for or buying, in order of preference: Silver
 shifter square washer; replacement shifter mech minus pod; replacement
 shifter mech with pod.

 Thanks.

 --

 -
 Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 -

 A billion stars go spinning through the night
 Blazing high above your head;
 But in you is the Presence that will be
 When all the stars are dead.

 Ranier Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory

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attachment: silverDTwashers.jpg

[RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

2012-04-18 Thread Ryan Ray
I like the term Just Noticeable Difference. Like a 2 degrees temperature 
difference. We could use NMD. Not Measurable Difference.

Example:Wow! These Rolly Polys are 5 NMDs better than my Folding Pasela 
TGs!

- Ryan

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[RBW] Re: Platrack In Back

2012-04-18 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean
Hmmm... Perhaps I should make all my questions rhetorical! :)

Yep, those are among the concerns I had. I may give it a try this weekend.

I like the fact that RBW and at least one other place I know (Ben's) sell  some 
of the rack hardware separately. I think I have what I need. But it's nice to 
know I may be able to fill in a small part gap should one arise, as they 
sometimes do in experiments like this.

Yours

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Re: [RBW] Re: Needed: Silver shifter square washer or replacement shifter

2012-04-18 Thread William
OK, perhaps the Silver ones with the stops are steel.  All mine are the 
original Suntours, where that part is aluminum and very easy to file down. 
 That square part for Silver shifters in the barcon configuration has no 
stop.  It's a circle on the outside and a square on the inside.  That's a 
metaphor for how I feel about myself sometimes.  

http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/sh13.htm 

The Riv photo of the pods has the circle/square rendition.  

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:23:27 AM UTC-7, joe b. wrote:

 On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 9:47 AM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
  When you say pod, that tells me you are asking about Silver Shifters in 
 the
  barcon configuration.

 Good point! I have spare left and right downtube square washers--the
 ones with limit stops for the shifters.

  should specify in your request.  Although the downtube version is soft
  aluminum and can be easily filed down to resemble the barcon version.

 Now I'm confused. Mine are steel, square holes, little limit stop
 nubs, left and right side specific. There's nothing like them in my
 bar end shifters.

 Best,
 joe broach
 portland, or

  On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 9:08:04 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
 
  Am interested in trading for or buying, in order of preference: Silver
  shifter square washer; replacement shifter mech minus pod; replacement
  shifter mech with pod.
 
  Thanks.
 
  --
 
  -
  Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
  For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
  http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
  -
 
  A billion stars go spinning through the night
  Blazing high above your head;
  But in you is the Presence that will be
  When all the stars are dead.
 
  Ranier Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory
 
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[RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

2012-04-18 Thread Patrick in VT
On Apr 18, 12:45 pm, cyclotour...@gmail.com cyclotour...@gmail.com
wrote:

The GBs feel absolutely divine. Like *nothing *else out there.

except tubulars!  seriously, with so many folks chasing the holy grail
of speed/comfort (and spending lots on time/money in that pursuit)
it's surprising that more folks don't ride tubulars, at least for that
one event wheelset.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

2012-04-18 Thread Peter Morgano
Awesome diagrams Phillip, those are helpful.  Of course as is the often the
case the deep info here from the group has made my choice all the more
complicated, haha. But too many choices are always better than too few I
say.  Thanks all.

Peter

On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 1:14 PM, Philip Williamson 
philip.william...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi Peter,
 The Barley is the smallest Carradice bag. I use the Cadet, and think the
 Barley would be too small for me.

 I made some illustrations of the relative sizes of the smaller bags:

 http://www.biketinker.com/2011/bike-resources/relative-sizes-of-smaller-carradice-bags/

 The next size up from the Cadet (last shown), is the Nelson Lowsaddle,
 which adds side pockets.

  Philip

 Philip Williamson
 www.biketinker.com


 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 2:36:31 PM UTC-7, Peter M wrote:

 Thinking of getting a Carradice Barley saddlebag but wanted to ask if
 anyone here is running one currently and how they like it. Also do you
 need a bag support with this thing like the now discontinued Hupe, and
 will it work with a sprung Brooks like the B72? Thanks to any help
 anyone can offer.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Needed: Silver shifter square washer or replacement shifter

2012-04-18 Thread Joe Broach
Ah, gotcha.

Patrick, if nothing else turns up, you're welcome to one of my DT
washers. I'm confident you can caveman the nub off, even if it is
steel.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or

On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 10:41 AM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 OK, perhaps the Silver ones with the stops are steel.  All mine are the
 original Suntours, where that part is aluminum and very easy to file down.
  That square part for Silver shifters in the barcon configuration has no
 stop.  It's a circle on the outside and a square on the inside.  That's a
 metaphor for how I feel about myself sometimes.

 http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/sh13.htm

 The Riv photo of the pods has the circle/square rendition.


 On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:23:27 AM UTC-7, joe b. wrote:

 On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 9:47 AM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
  When you say pod, that tells me you are asking about Silver Shifters in
  the
  barcon configuration.

 Good point! I have spare left and right downtube square washers--the
 ones with limit stops for the shifters.

  should specify in your request.  Although the downtube version is soft
  aluminum and can be easily filed down to resemble the barcon version.

 Now I'm confused. Mine are steel, square holes, little limit stop
 nubs, left and right side specific. There's nothing like them in my
 bar end shifters.

 Best,
 joe broach
 portland, or

  On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 9:08:04 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
 
  Am interested in trading for or buying, in order of preference: Silver
  shifter square washer; replacement shifter mech minus pod; replacement
  shifter mech with pod.
 
  Thanks.
 
  --
 
  -
  Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
  For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
  http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
  -
 
  A billion stars go spinning through the night
  Blazing high above your head;
  But in you is the Presence that will be
  When all the stars are dead.
 
  Ranier Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 59cm Bleriot

2012-04-18 Thread William
I have a very close friend that has that exact and deplorable shopping 
style.  In his mind, retail establishments that choose to employ experts 
are offering free expertise.  He happily accepts that free expertise in the 
form of advice and answers to however many questions they are willing to 
answer.  After he is done collecting all the free information he can, only 
then does he begin looking for the best price.  If the best price is back 
at the place with the expert employees, fine.  If it's a mailorder or 
webstore with no employees outside of shipping, so be it.  When I learned 
that about him, I honestly wanted to punch him squarely in the face.  

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:18:35 AM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
Cyclery wrote:

 Believe it or not, there are a lot of flakes who are into bikes in the 
 world. My fave was a guy who called several times to talk to me for a 
 combined maybe 2+ hours about a Bleriot. I somehow let the word Quickbeam 
 out of my mouth, and that got him to asking questions about that model. His 
 questions carried the implication that he was going to buy a Bleriot from 
 me. Anyway, after all that, maybe 2 weeks later, he called to thank me for 
 my patience in answering his hundreds of neurotic questions, but informed 
 me delightedly that he'd purchased it cheaper from one of the internet bike 
 shops who was selling the Bleriot just over cost back in those days. Not to 
 worry, he vowed to buy fenders from me. The conversation was ended, um, 
 hastily. If it had happened in person rather than on the phone, I think I 
 would have run him out the door with some forceful language and perhaps a 
 kick in the pants. After that, I considered instituting a consulting fee, 
 creditable toward whatever bike purchase may result, when I sensed the 
 conversation was dragging on with no purchase in sight. But it seems bad 
 form to ask for money just for talking to a customer...unless you're a 
 lawyer or medical type.

 On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 12:06:35 PM UTC-5, Kris wrote:

 I've had 4 people who seemed genuinely interested;
  
 1. read the RBW sizing bits, learned it wouldn't fit and let me know 
 right away
 2. couldn't come up with the funds and politely backed out
 3. partner was attacked by a pit bull (!!) and had to back out for $$ and 
 obvious reasons
  
 all of the above are perfectly reasonable
  
 4. agreed to pay set price, all set to end eBay auction, was away from 
 computer and would pay in a few hours.THEN NOTHING...vanished into 
 thin air!!  I even spent an hour boxing the bike!  Now I'll have to rebuild 
 it to sell localUGH!!!  
  
 You could write back and sayya know I actually think the bike is 
 ugly and 650b sucks and I wouldn't care, but just write the stinking 
 email!!  I don't know how people act like thisw/ gmail, Google+, FB, 
 etc it's pretty easy to find them.
  
 //end my rant
  
  

 On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 12:15:58 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Yanking this thread violently in my own direction: RANT: about people
 who, when they see a FS post, immediately scream, OH! I wannit! I
 wannit!!! And then, after you patient answer questions and send
 photos, disappear into the neant. 

  

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[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?

2012-04-18 Thread Jim
I have this 25 year hole in my riding history, stopped around 1987, just 
restarted last year.  So i've never NOT shifted friction.  Before my 
Hilsen, I  was grinding gears through an old (and miserable) 
schwinn-approved Huret.  That will get upgraded if i ever bring that bike 
back on line...

I've noticed some chain-skipping in certain rear cogs on my Hilsen (i've 
been riding the center chain ring pretty exclusively), and it can always be 
resolved by a bit of trimming the shifter, usually one click (silver 
bar-ends) one way or another.  I've rationalized it to myself that the 
relation between the position of the chain for the various ratchet clicks 
of the shifter are more suited for some of the cogs than others (i.e., 
there are three click positions that work for some gears, only two for 
others, so those are more likely to result in skippy or clunky shifting). 
 Interestingly, skipping is almost always a downshifting event for me, 
upshifts are solid and delightful.  My old Schwinn had similar, but more 
severe problems, i could get the chain between cogs on that one, resulting 
in no drive at all, just a free spinning crank.  Fun when it happened 
approaching a big hill.

Jim in Boulder

On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 2:44:51 PM UTC-6, Zack wrote:

 I noticed a discussion cropping up in the New Chain Skipping thread that 
 I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I have 
 been thinking about it a bit - 

 I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense to me 
 - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i am not 
 going to be able to get up the hill, i shift.  

 But I never really learned the right way to do this.  I have learned a 
 little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up on 
 the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a 
 dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource.  I know for 
 many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to ride 
 a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing.

 I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a 
 triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I shift 
 to either the big or small chainring.  I am cognizant of cross gearing, but 
 am probably guilty of doing it once in a while.

 I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing chains 
 (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which leads me 
 to believe I am part of the problem.

 So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way it 
 should be treated?



On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 2:44:51 PM UTC-6, Zack wrote:

 I noticed a discussion cropping up in the New Chain Skipping thread that 
 I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I have 
 been thinking about it a bit - 

 I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense to me 
 - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i am not 
 going to be able to get up the hill, i shift.  

 But I never really learned the right way to do this.  I have learned a 
 little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up on 
 the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a 
 dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource.  I know for 
 many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to ride 
 a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing.

 I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a 
 triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I shift 
 to either the big or small chainring.  I am cognizant of cross gearing, but 
 am probably guilty of doing it once in a while.

 I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing chains 
 (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which leads me 
 to believe I am part of the problem.

 So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way it 
 should be treated?




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Re: [RBW] Re: What is the best 28-30 mm 700c tire for fast riding on pavement?

2012-04-18 Thread William
Or perhaps I misused the term smart-aleck?  

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:14:58 AM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On Wed, 2012-04-18 at 10:09 -0700, William wrote:

  
  I've been tempted to ask Jan since going fast is fun (for the most
  part), but since going slow is safe (for the most part), shouldn't he
  run skinny tires, since they feel fast but are slow?  I know, I'm a
  jerk, and a smart aleck.  

 Perhaps you missed these blog postings:

 -http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/03/07/crossing-tracks-safely/
 -http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/01/30/the-downsides-of-wide-tires/
 -http://janheine.wordpress.com/2011/08/30/the-dangers-of-narrow-tires/



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Re: [RBW] Re: Needed: Silver shifter square washer or replacement shifter

2012-04-18 Thread William
Patrick is notoriously famous for his irresponsible and deplorable removal 
of steel with power tools.  

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:44:18 AM UTC-7, joe b. wrote:

 Ah, gotcha.

 Patrick, if nothing else turns up, you're welcome to one of my DT
 washers. I'm confident you can caveman the nub off, even if it is
 steel.

 Best,
 joe broach
 portland, or

 On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 10:41 AM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
  OK, perhaps the Silver ones with the stops are steel.  All mine are the
  original Suntours, where that part is aluminum and very easy to file 
 down.
   That square part for Silver shifters in the barcon configuration has no
  stop.  It's a circle on the outside and a square on the inside.  That's a
  metaphor for how I feel about myself sometimes.
 
  http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/sh13.htm
 
  The Riv photo of the pods has the circle/square rendition.
 
 
  On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 10:23:27 AM UTC-7, joe b. wrote:
 
  On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 9:47 AM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
   When you say pod, that tells me you are asking about Silver Shifters 
 in
   the
   barcon configuration.
 
  Good point! I have spare left and right downtube square washers--the
  ones with limit stops for the shifters.
 
   should specify in your request.  Although the downtube version is soft
   aluminum and can be easily filed down to resemble the barcon version.
 
  Now I'm confused. Mine are steel, square holes, little limit stop
  nubs, left and right side specific. There's nothing like them in my
  bar end shifters.
 
  Best,
  joe broach
  portland, or
 
   On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 9:08:04 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
  
   Am interested in trading for or buying, in order of preference: 
 Silver
   shifter square washer; replacement shifter mech minus pod; 
 replacement
   shifter mech with pod.
  
   Thanks.
  
   --
  
   -
   Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
   For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
   http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
   -
  
   A billion stars go spinning through the night
   Blazing high above your head;
   But in you is the Presence that will be
   When all the stars are dead.
  
   Ranier Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory
  
   --
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   Groups
   RBW Owners Bunch group.
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   https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/K8qV3r5b4J0J.
  
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 rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com.
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[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting and Riding Tips?

2012-04-18 Thread Michael Hechmer
Right on happycamper!  I couldn't agree more.  I run both a double and 
triples in 9 speed mode and am happy with both, but anyone who says a 
triple is just as easy to use as a double is probably in denial.  My 
favorite setup is on my Ram,  44/30 rings on a White Ind Crank mated to an 
11/28 9 spd cassette. This gives me 108 gi at the high end, and 30 at the 
low, a very simple shifting pattern, and reasonably closely spaced gears. 
 The only downside to this set up is the initial cost of the White Crank. 
 I know some will balk at the black rings but the are highly polished so I 
got over it in a hurry.

As for those limit screws yup, even after 35 years of riding I always 
scratch my head and try to remember which is the inside and which the 
outside.  On some deraillers  you can't see the mechanism.

My only place of divergence is on integration.  I run Campy FD, the new 
Ultegra 6700 RD, Conex Chain and Shimano HG cassettes, and ramped rings. 
 With Silver shifters the performance is way better than the Ultegra SIS I 
have used.

The sun is shining; I'm gonna hit the road.
Michael

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 12:46:01 PM UTC-4, HappyCamper wrote:

 I'm a friction noob too but some things that helped me:


- Move to a compact double. Seriously. I have one less gear I didn't 
need anyway and I fiddle with my shifters 90% less. Anyone who says a 
triple in front is just as easy as a double hash been riding bikes for a 
very long time, or loves their set up so much they refuse to realize the 
added complexity.
- Know that even with brifters triples are annoying
- Friction shifting can be like driving a manual. You learn to shift 
at the right speed, at the right time. Faster is not best.
- Shift less.
- Good shifters are allot better than crappy ones. I have Shimanos 
which are OK. I want Silvers which I tried the other day and liked allot 
better. Old school Suntour Ratchets were good too.
- A unified drivetrain helps. Some people can cobble together all 
softs of parts and friction shift just fine. In fact it's the reason some 
people prefer friction. I however found my all 8-speed set up to be nearly 
flawless. I had lots of mis shifting with a mixed up drivetrain.
- Rapid rise derailler. In hilly Seattle this really helps me shift 
uphills.
- Like everything: practice.
- If you can over/under shift your chain off gears and you corrected 
your adjustment screws then either* something is broken* or not set up 
right. The older... *ahem* wiser folks can't remember how tricky 
 adjustment 
screws can be when first learning how to set this stuff up. It takes 
practice or someone really showing you how to do it.

 I hope any of this helps. It may be stuff that only worked for me but now 
 I could never go back to indexed shifting.

 - Ryan







 On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 1:44:51 PM UTC-7, Zack wrote:

 I noticed a discussion cropping up in the New Chain Skipping thread 
 that I thought it would be worthwhile to dedicate a thread to this, as I 
 have been thinking about it a bit - 

 I am a relatively new bike rider, and change gears as it makes sense to 
 me - when i feel like i need more speed, i shift, when i feel like i am not 
 going to be able to get up the hill, i shift.  

 But I never really learned the right way to do this.  I have learned a 
 little about friction shifting just from poking around (lightening up on 
 the cranks when I am about to shift, as an example) but haven't seen a 
 dedicated thread to this, nor have I found a good resource.  I know for 
 many of you this is intuitive basic stuff, but I never learned how to ride 
 a bike from anyone that actually knew what they are doing.

 I generally stay in the middle ring on my front chainring (I have a 
 triple) and use all of the back gears until I need more, and then I shift 
 to either the big or small chainring.  I am cognizant of cross gearing, but 
 am probably guilty of doing it once in a while.

 I have consistently had problems with chains slipping, throwing chains 
 (both off the big and granny rings) across multiple bikes, which leads me 
 to believe I am part of the problem.

 So how do you ride to ensure that you are treating the bike the way it 
 should be treated?




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Re: [RBW] Re: Needed: Silver shifter square washer or replacement shifter

2012-04-18 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Thanks for all the help and offers. After posting I realized that it
is not the square washer that is  missing but the little plastic
friction washer -- sorry for the confusion. I did however discover
that Riv offers these for sale at $1/pr (part # SH12) and I ordered on
the phone after a nice conversation with John.

Patrick sorry to miss a Dremeling opportunity Moore

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