Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Frank Jones Sr. (51.5cm) (PBH 77.5-80.2)

[Jeremy Tavan]

I did buy one, and it really is special. It's gotta be my most beautiful 
bike. Someone should grab this frame and build it up. Here's another build 
picture for encouragement. The knobbies don't QUITE have enough clearance 
under the fenders, so I've since switched to slightly smaller slicks. New 
cockpit is in the pipeline because I'm not riding drop bars these days...

https://share.getcloudapp.com/2Nu26RzR


/Jeremy
San Jose, CA

On Saturday, February 29, 2020 at 8:21:33 PM UTC-8, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
> Yeah, I’d buy a 59. 
> I should have bought one the first time around! I don’t need another bike, 
> but it’s pretty special. 
>
> Philip 
> Santa Rosa, CA

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[RBW] Unsolicited endorsement: Peppermint Goat gritty hand soap

[Jeremy Tavan]

I've spent some time wrenching on bikes recently, and I've been 
consistently amazed at how effective the Rivendell-sold gritty hand soap is 
at removing grease and grime from hands. I don't know if it's the grit 
particles or the soap itself, but it's fantastic stuff. Leaves hands nice 
and soft, too. It is by far my favorite heavy-duty soap. I really 
appreciate how Rivendell put a little effort into identifying and sourcing 
not-directly-bike-related products of high utility and selling them along 
with bikes and parts. Thanks!

/Jeremy

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[RBW] Re: Silver 2 thumb shifters on the Blahg

[Jeremy Tavan]

Very true. I have adapted Silver shifters to work better as thumb shifters 
by grinding down shorter and capping with a Rustines rubber grip, and have 
been pleased with the results, but it's a lot more work than using 
something designed for the job.

On Friday, October 26, 2018 at 9:37:56 AM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>
>
> A long lever fits and index finger rather nicely, great for reaching down 
> to the dt. Bar top shifting as I have used my Sun Tours since '84 is more 
> of a rotating motion like turning a key in a lock. Having a short thick 
> lever, more volume in hand, makes it bit easier for those tiny movements 
> than a long thin lever can. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Riv HHH Tandem (small)

[Jeremy Tavan]

Seconded! This is a great deal on a very nice tandem. I have just about an 
identical one, also sadly not getting much of any use. I cannot imagine 
housing it in a kitchen, though - this is a lot of bicycle, even in a size 
small. Someone buy it and get it rolling!

/Jeremy

On Saturday, October 20, 2018 at 12:57:24 PM UTC-7, Max S wrote:
>
> Omg, this is an amazing deal. We love ours - ride it with wife and kids... 
> so much fun! 
>
> - Max “idontneedtwotandemsbutmaybe...” in A2

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[RBW] Re: Taking Clem to a different level

[Jeremy Tavan]

That's very nice! I briefly experimented with dirt drops on the Clem (with 
a 100mm Nitto Dirt Drop stem), but found that the reach was maybe an inch 
too long even with my proportionally-crazy-long torso. Your idea of an 
Analog stem is interesting, though - that might be just the thing for a 
re-try of the idea... Good times!

/Jeremy

On Friday, October 19, 2018 at 6:23:50 AM UTC-7, Christopher Wiggins wrote:
>
> I've been wanting to do something special with a Clem.  Here's a little 
> write up about a build I just finished.  I like it. A lot.
>
> https://a1cyclery.com/about/news/dirt-drop-it-like-its-hot/
>
> More pics on my Insta here.  https://www.instagram.com/a1cyclery/
>
> Thanks!
>
> Chris
>

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[RBW] Re: Anyone catch the hint on Instagram of a 26" Compass knobby?

[Jeremy Tavan]

I just invested a good bit of money in a set of nice 26" wheels (Velocity 
Cliffhanger rims, dynamo front and V-O touring rear) for a RTP build (MB-1 
with custom low-trail fork), so I'm all in favor of more good-quality 
options in the size if this build doesn't end up a permanent keeper. Sounds 
like fun. 

On Monday, October 15, 2018 at 5:23:13 AM UTC-7, Chris Lampe 2 wrote:
>
> Compass posted an image of one of their knobby tires and someone asked 
> about a 26" version for when RTP won't cut it and Compass' reply was "we 
> remain committed to 26"."
>
> There are a lot of nice vintage MTB's out there along with a few really 
> nice modern 26" bikes and I bet we see some killer builds based around 
> these tires.assuming I'm taking the hint correctly. 
>

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[RBW] Re: New Rosco Cargo Mixte

[Jeremy Tavan]

I like this a lot! I've been saving my Mtn Mixte for a mid-drive motor 
conversion, and I think a cargo fork would be the perfect extension of this 
utility bike idea. Gotta get one of these!

On Friday, September 28, 2018 at 2:35:01 PM UTC-7, Drw wrote:
>
> Just finished converting my rosco mtn mixte with a crust cargo fork. I 
> think it came out perfectly weird. Shakedown ride says it rides 
> surprisingly normal, though I need to cut the steerer down some more. 
> Eventually it’ll get a big basket on the front and a kid seat on the back. 

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[RBW] Re: Sharing a 52 Clem L with my much shorter spouse. Feasable? Crazy?

[Jeremy Tavan]

I am 5'10" with an 83.5cm PBH, and I ride a 52cm Clem H comfortably. My 
wife is 5'5" with a much lower saddle height, and she rides a 52cm Clem L 
with the seat slammed. But for someone 5'0", even with an un-suspended 
saddle, I don't think it's going to work. And, as Ed points out, you'll 
both need very different bars. I don't think this is a good idea. Get her a 
small one, get yourself a medium one. Everyone will be happier with a 
his-n-hers setup. Besides, if you can find one with the "Clementine" 
decals, it's super cute to have Clem and Clementine out on a ride.

/Jeremy

On Tuesday, September 4, 2018 at 7:49:23 PM UTC-7, Sean Steinle wrote:
>
> So, I've never really looked at the Clem L until today, especially not at 
> the geometry chart. Didn't realize the sizes catered to such wide ranges, 
> which of course makes sense with a step-through. Here's the dilemma, my 
> wife is 5'2", just measured her PBH at 73.5 cm. If I was buying a Clem just 
> for her, it would be the 45, no brainer. I'm 5'10", PBH 86.5, so at the 
> high end of a 52. Here's why I want to do it:
>
>
>- My wife doesn't ride *that *often, so it's hard to justify spending 
>Riv money on a bike for her. 
>- I just bought a beautiful, but expensive rando bike, but it almost 
>feels too nice to commute on. I feel like something in a lower price tier 
>would be a bit more freeing. Locking it up outside of a store on the way 
>home, leaving it outside on a slushy day instead of dragging my rando 
>through the office (I'm not locking it outside, period). 
>- Lastly, I just really want a Riv, and I feel like this shared 
>(multi-purpose, minimalist, need I go on?) bike thing could be the ticket 
>with my wife. 
>
> My vision for the 52 Clem L: Foul weather (or just all the time, we'd see 
> how it goes) commuter for me. Then when we go on family rides, my wife will 
> hop on the Clem and I'll take the rando bike.
>
> So what's my reservation? I think a 52 Clem would work just fine for me, 
> and I think my wife could fit it with a slammed seat post, the question is, 
> could I find a cockpit that she could reach that wouldn't leave me feeling 
> squished when I'm riding it?  Thoughts on this idea in general would be 
> appreciated! 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Bar-end brake levers on Albastache?

[Jeremy Tavan]

I use and love bar-end brake levers on my albastache-cockpit commuter bike. 
For shifting it has a shortened-and-rubber-capped Silver shifter on a 
thumbie on the right side. On the curves, tandem stoker knobs provide 
another grip location which I find I basically never use, so I'm thinking 
about removing them next time I'm working on that bike. But the levers are 
very convenient, and I can brake with them from all the various positions 
around the bars. Recommended.

/Jeremy

On Saturday, September 1, 2018 at 9:38:50 AM UTC-7, Tully Lanter wrote:
>
> Has anyone tried that combo? 
>
> I plan to put Albastache bars on my Quickbeam, and realized that levers 
> like these 
> 
>  should 
> preserve more hand positions while keeping the brakes accessible from the 
> wide, short-reach position.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Have dynamo wheel your Roadeo?

[Jeremy Tavan]

I guess it's not quite true that I've never noticed the drag - I DO notice 
the difference in efficiency on my Brompton between the original wheel and 
the SON-equipped wheel. It's minor, but it's there. 

/Jeremy

On Monday, August 27, 2018 at 1:14:18 PM UTC-7, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> I want to run an IQX on a Schmidt hub. 
> My Roadeo is way faster than my Rambouillet, and I enjoy the ease of 
> pedaling it along so I don’t want to slow it down if hubs draggy. 
> Sounds like ok. 
> I do have a Schmidt on my 650Ram but forgot if I could feel any drag when 
> I put it on.

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[RBW] Re: Have dynamo wheel your Roadeo?

[Jeremy Tavan]

I don't notice drag with any of my many dynamo hub wheels (SP, Kasai by SP, 
SON, Shimano), but I _do_ notice a vibration at some speeds with all of 
them. It's subtle, but if you're riding smooth roads you should be able to 
sense it. Is it a problem? No. All non-racing bikes should have full time 
dynamo lighting.

/J

On Sunday, August 26, 2018 at 3:21:56 PM UTC-7, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> Bike still run just as fast or did the dyno hub cause perceptable drag? 
>
> Thinking of SON hub dyno wheelset. My Roadeo runs really enjoyably fast so 
> I don’t want to slow it down. If you felt it did on yours let me know. 
>
> Thanks for your thoughts on your experience.

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[RBW] Re: Bullmoose Bars - Your Experiences?

[Jeremy Tavan]

That's been my experience with the bosco moose bars as well - any bar that 
doesn't let you choose the angle is going to be wrong for nearly everyone. 
I like the long-reach bullmoose both for looks and for control, but I have 
replaced them on the Clem because it's mostly used for relaxed on-road, and 
the Albatross matches it better. Still really good bars, and I like your 
thought that they'd work better on a bike with a really slack front end... 
might have to dig something up that matches.

/Jeremy

On Monday, July 30, 2018 at 11:10:28 AM UTC-7, CMR wrote:
>
> I felt the need to rotate too, I think they would work best with a very 
> slack front end. They are very heavy/tankish. but I have never felt as 
> confident in the strength of my cockpit haha. They feel best offroad and 
> way overbuilt for anything else. Beautiful, beautiful bars though.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: new bike day!!

[Jeremy Tavan]

I love 650Bx48 on the Clem - tried 650Bx2.35 Schwalbe Big Ones and just 
didn't care for the handling, even if they rolled well. My Clem has WTB 
Horizons, but I'm sure the Compass 48mms (Switchback Hill?) are great.

On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 10:05:31 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I don't know anything about Compass tires - in spite of having some on my 
> Pashley - so I went hunting for these and they're 700c only. What's the 
> ticket for a mostly-pavement Clem with 650B?

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[RBW] Re: Wald 137 bag recommendations?

[Jeremy Tavan]

I haven't spent much time riding rough places with the OuterShell bag, but 
it's fairly structured with rigid plastic inserts, and that's before you 
add the foam camera inserts. I wouldn't be particularly worried about 
floppiness.

On Sunday, July 15, 2018 at 7:20:23 AM UTC-7, Patch T wrote:
>
>
> The OuterShell looks like a rando bag made to fit in a basket. My main 
> concern with my rando bag is it's floppiness. Fine for smooth roads, but 
> moves around too much on trails. Perhaps inside a basket the OuterShell 
> basket bag would be more structured? 
>
> Jeremy, can you speak to this?
>
> Wish the Sugarloaf was a little bigger too. Looks to be the most secure. 
>
> Dave, do you have the Acorn? Looks roomy and simple. Does it seem to be 
> able to hold tight on bumpy terrain?
>
> Others come very close but no cigars yet. Thanks all for input! 
>

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[RBW] Re: Wald 137 bag recommendations?

[Jeremy Tavan]

I have bought far too many Wald 137-specific bags because I just love 
bag-in-basket loading. I'm not sure what would best meet your criteria, but 
a few thoughts:

RELoad - Capacious, available in custom colorsets, relatively easy in and 
out, relatively secure, has outside pocket. Not enough individual 
compartments for my commute load.
Swift Sugarloaf - Fits my commute load...barely. Would be perfect if about 
30% taller. VERY secure, easy in and out, slim exterior pockets don't hold 
much. Lots of interior compartments. My favorite so far.
Outershell - Rugged, nice camera inserts, hasn't gotten a ton of use yet, 
slightly weird securing with lots of long bungee.
Acorn Basket Tote (1 strap) - Don't own one yet, but I love the simplicity 
and capacity.
Acorn Basket Bag (2 steraps) - Capcious, a little awkward over the 
shoulder, but meets most other requirements and has a great look. They 
don't seem to list it on their web site any more.
Shopsack Medium - Not what you're looking for, probably. 

On Saturday, July 14, 2018 at 8:24:08 AM UTC-7, Patch T wrote:
>
> A google search for Wald 137 bags show a lot more options than a year+ ago 
> when I was looking last. I had decided to opt for a rando-style bag and am 
> not sure I totally love it. I miss the basket. 
> What are folks' favorites?
>
> My main criteria are:
>
> - easy in and out
> - shoulder strappable
> - very secure to basket for 'rough' riding
> - generous volume
> - outside compartments for stowage of things
> - weatherproof
>
> Mostly familiar with Sugarloaf and Dark Realm bags. What else though?
>
> Patch
> BK/NY
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Riv Odds/Ends/Accessories to Add to an Order.

[Jeremy Tavan]

Both the sunscreen and the lip balm that Riv sell are family favorites and 
I add some of them to most orders. Good stuff.

On Friday, July 6, 2018 at 7:19:48 AM UTC-7, David B wrote:
>
> I feel like I've asked this question before, but I'll throw it out there 
> again.
>
> What odds/ends/accessories are staples to add to an order? 
> Or really just extra items that are handy to have around.
>
> I have some Hail Mary credit to use, was going to wait for DC 610 brakes 
> to arrive, but need some Clem pedals for a beater bike, so I figured I'd 
> use up the rest of my credit while I'm at it.
>
> Thanks,
> David
>

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[RBW] Re: Pedals and Cycling Shoes for Feet Shaped Feet

[Jeremy Tavan]

The Lems Primal are the most comfortable shoes I've ever worn (even more 
comfortable, to me, than the Vivobarefoot shoes I wore for years). The 
bottom isn't as thin and flexible as Vivo, but it's also not quite as stiff 
as Patrick's looking for, I suspect. But at least it IS thick enough that I 
don't feel the spikes in the pedals through them... I've been happy with 
them for cycling purposes.

/Jeremy

On Sunday, June 17, 2018 at 11:04:25 AM UTC-7, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> Lems makes good foot shaped, zero drop shoes.
> But they are not cycling shoes.
> I think you are wanting clip ins for the fixiefax?
>
> I like Lems 925 and their Boots. EE and hi arch friendly.
> But I think you said you need ?
>
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: New Dia Compe 610 Centerpull Brakes?

[Jeremy Tavan]

I tried and failed to use these on the Frank Jones Sr. They fit the front 
just fine, but nowhere near enough reach for the rear. I've been saving 
them for another project, as they're pretty nice looking, though the 
rounded edges of the more-retro ones Rivendell's bringing in have an 
appeal, too.

/Jeremy

On Wednesday, June 13, 2018 at 7:59:05 PM UTC-7, tc wrote:
>
> David,
> Velo Orange 
> 
>  
> has them for $85/wheel.
>
> Tom
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Jeremy Tavan]

I don't think any of the rugged-type Rivendell bikes would need any 
additional reinforcement to run disc brakes. The Clem/Hunq/Appaloosa are 
all rather stoutly tubed. Flexy they ain't.

/Jeremy

On Tuesday, June 12, 2018 at 10:27:09 AM UTC-7, Hugh Flynn wrote:
>
> It’s a fair point to be sure, but is separate from the question I asked.
>
> To put a somewhat finer point on it, my comment did not relate to weight 
> in any way. I referenced the impact of forcing thicker tubes than might 
> otherwise be spec’d in order to accommodate certain brakes that could alter 
> the way the bike rides. Weight is not a factor in that point.
>
> I’m calling myself still ideologically pure :-)
>
> Hugh “flex” Flynn
> Newburyport, MA
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 12:52 PM Justin, Oakland  > wrote:
>
>> I think there’s a certain irony in lovers of modern Rivendell designs 
>> being worried about the extra weight of tubes needed to support having disc 
>> brakes. 
>>
>> -J
>>
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> -- 
> Hugh Flynn
> Newburyport, MA
>

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[RBW] Re: Bicycle Stuff - FREE to Good Home

[Jeremy Tavan]

Looks like some good stuff, including parts I've been needing for projects. 
I would be happy to pick up! And 826valencia.org looks like a worthy 
organization indeed - would be delighted to make a donation even if not 
picking up parts.

/Jeremy

On Monday, May 21, 2018 at 8:06:30 AM UTC-7, John wrote:
>
> Hi Folks
>
>
> I'm clearing out more boxes. 
>
>
> Some of this is Riv Stuff from Rivendell. Some is Riv-Style Stuff from who 
> knows where. Some is Non Riv Stuff.
>
> All of this stuff is a few years old. It's been sitting on a shelf in 
> boxes.
>
>
> FREE to anyone who can pick it up, in Redwood City, by Memorial Day 
> Weekend. If you are interested, post a reply...
>
>
> If 2 people want it, I’ll let them decide
>
>
> If 3 or more people are interested, We can do a pick a number between 1 
> and 100.
>
>
> Caveat. If you pick up this Stuff and think there value, Please make a 
> donation to 826Valencia.   http://826valencia.org/  Even if you don’t 
> take this stuff, take a look at  http://826valencia.org/   Good Place.
>
>
>
> I hope someone can use this stuff, Thanks for Looking
>
>
> John
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Hubbuhubbuh wheelset specs

[Jeremy Tavan]

Mine has:

Rims: Velocity Cliffhanger
Front Hub: SON Tandem hub, 40H (I think this is 100mm OLD, just larger 
flanges and higher spoke count)
Rear: White XMR-T (145mm OLD) 40H (with 180mm Shimano XT disc rotor)

On Wednesday, May 9, 2018 at 8:26:31 AM UTC-7, Jim S. wrote:
>
> Hi all, I was going to try and build a second set of wheels for my 
> Rivendell tandem - but I'm not sure what the proper wheelset specs are. 
>
> I know that the rims have to be 650b. I know that you can run a rear disc 
> brake on this bike, but I don't. Do you use a rear-disc brake hub anyway? 
> What is the spacing? In short, does anyone know the other specs- couldn't 
> seem to find anything on the Riv website or blug or blahg.
>
> Thanks as always for your expertise.
>

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Re: [RBW] New Wavie Bar Photos

[Jeremy Tavan]

I'm very pleased with my MAP bars on my Kogswell - they're really a great 
balance between full-forward drop/flat bar and full-upright 
Albatross/Choco/whatever. I'll definitely give this one a try once 
available. It has a good look. I find that a fully-upright position works 
poorly for me - I generally end up feeling cramped. The only bike I've been 
able to use an Albatross on is a super-long-top-tube Clem Smith Jr, with a 
very long stem.

On Thursday, April 19, 2018 at 3:57:53 AM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> The bar gets my vote, totally sold on my Map bars.  fwiw, I liked the 
> Riv's own Mary bar simile - I think they needed one after all the U-shaped 
> bars they've offered for so long.  
> If you want to sit bolt upright, a U-shaped bar is probably what you want, 
> but if you want a bit more aggressive riding posture, this looks like it - 
> without going all the way to a straight bar.  
> I've never understood wide straight bars - hands just aren't shaped like 
> that.  .  
> Comparing Jitensha with Map, the longer ends on the sweep are what make 
> the Map bar nice.  Looks like Riv Wavie has the same sweep of the Map bar 
> with an extra cm added to the center straight section.  
>
>  throwing upt the bare Map bar for 
> comparison
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Frank Jones Sr Finally "done"

[Jeremy Tavan]

Beautiful build! I think you're going to be very happy with the Frank - I 
know I'm absolutely loving how it rides. Hoping to get fenders mounted and 
ready for some "finished" shots this weekend. Looking at your nice clean 
drivetrain and fenders makes me re-think my multi-gear Frank approach. May 
have to make up my mind and switch to a single correct gearing.

/Jeremy

On Friday, April 6, 2018 at 3:38:55 PM UTC-7, Ken Yokanovich wrote:
>
> Unmotivated by the weather here in MN, I recently took some time to finish 
> up the the assembly on my Frank Jones. This project was going to take a 
> back burner while I focused on the build for my daughters new Cheviot, but 
> now that project has stalled for a bit.  With a recent order for some small 
> things from Rivendell, I had enough parts laying around to finish the Frank 
> Jones. 
>
> Build highlights: Phil Wood SLR hubs, Suntour Superbe Pro crank, NOS Gran 
> Compe brakes, Compass Barlow Pass with Honjo fenders, fixed 41x17
>
> Temps in the 20's and more snow is in the forecast for this weekend, so 
> plans for a long ride have been dashed. Based on some shorter rides, seems 
> like this will be a worthy successor for my long lost Quickbeam.  Really 
> looking forward to warmer weather soon to get out and ride.
>
> Photo is after shoveling on Monday, link to more photos including the 
> obligatory "in front of white garage door" in Flikr gallery: 
> https://flic.kr/s/aHsmfjKfP4
>
> 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Frank Jones Sr. Build - Ready to ride, if not complete

[Jeremy Tavan]

I had the crankset on hand waiting for a project worthy of it, mainly. It's 
certainly unnecessary, but I also have a dingle and flip-side cog on this 
giving a lot of possible gearing choices. The overall tooth calculations:

42 + 16 = 58   (72 gear inches)
36 + 16 = 52   (62 gear inches)
36 + 19 = 55   (52 gear inches)
36 + 22 = 58   (45 gear inches)
28 + 22 = 50   (35 gear inches)

On Friday, March 9, 2018 at 7:51:49 AM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Jeremy: that's an elegant chainring and crankset. Question: Why 3 rings 
> instead of a Dingle and a flip-side cog? You get more gear ratio change for 
> your units of axle movement when you change the # of teeth at the rear, 
> compared to the front.
>
> I've thought of commissioning a multispeed fixed hub from Phil (they said 
> they'd do it; though this was years ago) that would allow me to install 3 
> fixed cogs on one side. But the 17/19 or 17/20 Dingle have served my 
> purposes sufficiently.
>
> On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 7:54 AM, Jeremy Tavan <jta...@gmail.com 
> > wrote:
>
>> Here's the crankset. My shop had to machine down the TA chainring for a 
>> better match to the shape of the crank spider. In the back, it's a White 
>> DOS 19/19, and on the other side of the wheel a 22t freewheel.
>>
>> By the math, assuming an 8t max adjustment range, it should work, but I 
>> haven't yet tried the various gearings. I will need to adjust the wheel 
>> fully forward in the dropout and get the chain JUST the right length for it 
>> to have a chance to work with the granny gear.
>>
>> <http://cl.ly/2o0d2O1D1s3s/IMG_4549.JPG>
>>
>>
>> On Friday, March 9, 2018 at 3:11:01 AM UTC-8, Belopsky wrote:
>>>
>>> More photos of the drivetrain please 
>>
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>
>
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
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> **
> **
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>

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[RBW] Re: Frank Jones Sr. Build - Ready to ride, if not complete

[Jeremy Tavan]

Today, yes. In general, probably not. :)

On Friday, March 9, 2018 at 7:26:44 AM UTC-8, Paul Choi wrote:
>
> Are we going to see this on Caltrain?
>

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[RBW] Re: Frank Jones Sr. Build - Ready to ride, if not complete

[Jeremy Tavan]

They're Dixna cross levers. I think your Merry Sales dealer should be able 
to order them, though I don't see them on the somafab web store. I'll post 
a report on them once I've got some time with them.

On Friday, March 9, 2018 at 5:53:02 AM UTC-8, Leif Eckstrom wrote:
>
> Gorgeous. What are those interrupter levers? Modern guidonet levers of 
> some kind? Look awesome. Would love to hear about functionality of those 
> levers once you get some miles in on this bike. 
> Thanks, 
> Leif
> Chicago

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[RBW] Re: Frank Jones Sr. Build - Ready to ride, if not complete

[Jeremy Tavan]

I take part of this back. I would not expect outer chainring/inner cog to 
work: chain too short.

Now for some more coffee.

On Friday, March 9, 2018 at 6:57:19 AM UTC-8, Jeremy Tavan wrote:
>
> It was theoretically set up for outer/outer, middle/inner, inner/other 
> side. However, I would expect middle/outer and outer/inner to work as well 
> - but no real reason to do it.
>
> On Friday, March 9, 2018 at 6:25:28 AM UTC-8, Coal Bee Rye Anne wrote:
>>
>> Well done!  It’s a Tringlespeed!  Looks like a lot of fun. Curious if the 
>> triple/triple gearing is fully functional within the adjustment range of 
>> the track ends/dropout slots or is each combo gear ratio & chainline 
>> specific?  i.e.  outer/outer, middle/middle, inner/inner? 
>>
>> Brian Cole 
>> Lawrenceville NJ
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Frank Jones Sr. Build - Ready to ride, if not complete

[Jeremy Tavan]

It was theoretically set up for outer/outer, middle/inner, inner/other 
side. However, I would expect middle/outer and outer/inner to work as well 
- but no real reason to do it.

On Friday, March 9, 2018 at 6:25:28 AM UTC-8, Coal Bee Rye Anne wrote:
>
> Well done!  It’s a Tringlespeed!  Looks like a lot of fun. Curious if the 
> triple/triple gearing is fully functional within the adjustment range of 
> the track ends/dropout slots or is each combo gear ratio & chainline 
> specific?  i.e.  outer/outer, middle/middle, inner/inner? 
>
> Brian Cole 
> Lawrenceville NJ

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[RBW] Re: Frank Jones Sr. Build - Ready to ride, if not complete

[Jeremy Tavan]

Here's the crankset. My shop had to machine down the TA chainring for a 
better match to the shape of the crank spider. In the back, it's a White 
DOS 19/19, and on the other side of the wheel a 22t freewheel.

By the math, assuming an 8t max adjustment range, it should work, but I 
haven't yet tried the various gearings. I will need to adjust the wheel 
fully forward in the dropout and get the chain JUST the right length for it 
to have a chance to work with the granny gear.




On Friday, March 9, 2018 at 3:11:01 AM UTC-8, Belopsky wrote:
>
> More photos of the drivetrain please 

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[RBW] Frank Jones Sr. Build - Ready to ride, if not complete

[Jeremy Tavan]

Finished the handlebar wrap (man, do I need more practice) on my Frank 
build - with the contrasting swoop on the fork crown and the cross levers, 
I think I'll call him Mr. Mustache. Initial bad photos here, but I promised 
my local shop I'd do better. Campagnolo ATB triple cranks (with a 42T TA  
Zephyr large chainring) plus three gears in back make for one funny 
single-speed, but we'll see how it goes. Just needs lights and possibly 
fenders. I have some cream SKS Longboards that look amazing on it, but are 
just a tiny bit narrow for comfort over the 38mm tires. I'm sort of 
thinking about getting some 50mm Berthoud fenders powder coated cream, 
having seen how the plastic ones looked. Seems a little silly to bother 
with fenders at all, but I like how they keep the bike cleaner (and me 
drier in the rain).

Kind of an experimental build here: in addition to the triple crankset, 
I've gone a bit cyclocross on this build. Knobby Compass tires, Nitto 
RM-013 dirt drops, and weird Dixna cross levers. The latter look weird, but 
they legitimately give one extra hand position with brake access, with the 
thumbs from the corners. Haven't done any distance on it yet. We'll see. 
The bike feels great - a nice fit, I think.







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Re: [RBW] Re: Keven Sighting on Riv Instagram

[Jeremy Tavan]

It's good. I've ridden cargo bikes/cycletrucks with frame-integrated racks 
that don't move with steerering, and that's how the Brompton works as well. 
It means you don't fight the moment of the load while steering, so steering 
is lighter and less floppy than it would be otherwise. The next bike I set 
up for heavy front loads will definitely be done this way.

On Sunday, March 4, 2018 at 9:09:36 AM UTC-8, Drw wrote:
>
> Love it. I wonder how the rack not turning affects handling when turning.

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[RBW] Re: Frank Jones brake choices

[Jeremy Tavan]

True indeed. Can confirm that 610s won't fit the rear, either. I ended up 
with a set of Silver long-reach sidepulls. I'm not thrilled by the braking, 
but at least they have the needed reach. The front brake pads are near the 
top of the slot, the rears as low as they can go. Dramatic and kind of 
weird, but it works. Now working

On Friday, March 2, 2018 at 2:35:39 PM UTC-8, Ken Yokanovich wrote:
>
> Don't get too excited about the 610's  I had a NOS pair of the Gran Comp 
> version that proved to work on the front, but NOT on the back.  I wound up 
> going with a pair of NOS Gran Compe 700's instead.  
>
> On Thursday, March 1, 2018 at 11:14:18 PM UTC-6, Jeremy Tavan wrote:
>>
>> Well, looks like the rear on mine just didn't want to reach far enough. 
>> It's going to be 610 centerpulls for me.
>>
>> On Thursday, March 1, 2018 at 2:08:14 PM UTC-8, Jeremy Tavan wrote:
>>>
>>> I have just picked up a set of Tektro R737 long-reach calipers for 
>>> Frank. On their web site they're indicated as 47-59mm reach, but when I 
>>> picked up the box it indicated 57mm max reach. A quick mock-up fit seems to 
>>> indicate that they WILL reach the rims, but I'm a little concerned and will 
>>> report back. If they don't work out, I'll go with Dia-Compe 610 
>>> centerpulls. I'm not a huge fan of the extra-long-reach sidepulls. This is 
>>> a bike where I really wish they'd gone with canti brakes.
>>>
>>> On Thursday, March 1, 2018 at 1:48:18 PM UTC-8, nathan wrote:
>>>>
>>>> One of the interesting differences between Quickbeam/Simpleone and 
>>>> Frank Jones is that brake options are different (canti vs side/center 
>>>> pull). I'm curious: if you were to build up a Frank Jones would you go 
>>>> with 
>>>> Tektro R559 sidepull, a centerpull (eg. Dia Compe or Paul), or something 
>>>> else? Why?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Nathan
>>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Frank Jones brake choices

[Jeremy Tavan]

Well, looks like the rear on mine just didn't want to reach far enough. 
It's going to be 610 centerpulls for me.

On Thursday, March 1, 2018 at 2:08:14 PM UTC-8, Jeremy Tavan wrote:
>
> I have just picked up a set of Tektro R737 long-reach calipers for Frank. 
> On their web site they're indicated as 47-59mm reach, but when I picked up 
> the box it indicated 57mm max reach. A quick mock-up fit seems to indicate 
> that they WILL reach the rims, but I'm a little concerned and will report 
> back. If they don't work out, I'll go with Dia-Compe 610 centerpulls. I'm 
> not a huge fan of the extra-long-reach sidepulls. This is a bike where I 
> really wish they'd gone with canti brakes.
>
> On Thursday, March 1, 2018 at 1:48:18 PM UTC-8, nathan wrote:
>>
>> One of the interesting differences between Quickbeam/Simpleone and Frank 
>> Jones is that brake options are different (canti vs side/center pull). I'm 
>> curious: if you were to build up a Frank Jones would you go with Tektro 
>> R559 sidepull, a centerpull (eg. Dia Compe or Paul), or something else? Why?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Nathan
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Frank Jones brake choices

[Jeremy Tavan]

I have just picked up a set of Tektro R737 long-reach calipers for Frank. 
On their web site they're indicated as 47-59mm reach, but when I picked up 
the box it indicated 57mm max reach. A quick mock-up fit seems to indicate 
that they WILL reach the rims, but I'm a little concerned and will report 
back. If they don't work out, I'll go with Dia-Compe 610 centerpulls. I'm 
not a huge fan of the extra-long-reach sidepulls. This is a bike where I 
really wish they'd gone with canti brakes.

On Thursday, March 1, 2018 at 1:48:18 PM UTC-8, nathan wrote:
>
> One of the interesting differences between Quickbeam/Simpleone and Frank 
> Jones is that brake options are different (canti vs side/center pull). I'm 
> curious: if you were to build up a Frank Jones would you go with Tektro 
> R559 sidepull, a centerpull (eg. Dia Compe or Paul), or something else? Why?
>
> Thanks,
> Nathan
>

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Kite bar?

[Jeremy Tavan]

I have one currently mounted on the tandem, which has gotten almost no use 
since build, so I can't give anything more than a vague positive impression 
of it. It's a bit like an Albatross but not quite as steeply swept back, 
resulting in a wider bar, as you pointed out. It's very similar to a Surly 
Open Bar, and if I were interested in this kind of bar I'd look hard at the 
Surly rather than importing something so similar from Japan. I definitely 
find the albatross more swept-back than I like, so these bars fill a useful 
niche.

On Friday, February 23, 2018 at 5:39:40 AM UTC-8, Michael Morrissey wrote:
>
> Has anyone here tried it? It looks sweet. 
>
> https://global.bluelug.com/nitto-b355-kite-bar-silver.html
>
> I've had the Albatross, Salsa wide mountain bars, and Riv- Bullmoose on my 
> Appaloosa, but I feel a wider Albatross style would be just right for me. 
>
> M
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Frank Jones Sr build "done"

[Jeremy Tavan]

Beautifully done, Igor. Love the raspberry seat and handlebar wrap!

I'm looking at a very different build for mine - hoping I can get something 
half as cool put together. We'll see!

On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 10:35:57 AM UTC-8, Belopsky wrote:
>
> Some proper photos https://photos.app.goo.gl/zi9AbxwNp8CO2hef1
>
> On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 11:04:42 AM UTC-5, Diego J. Garza wrote:
>>
>> Awesome bike, Igor! 
>>
>> I've had luck removing some printed gfx on metals with nail polish 
>> remover and as mentions, some steel wool/light sanding.
>>
>>
>>  
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 10:27:01 AM UTC-8, Eli Queen wrote:
>>>
>>> Looks great! Love the blue. If the logo is what's bothering you about 
>>> that seatpost, it's just printed on. It comes off in no time with some 
>>> # steel wool.
>>>
>>> - Eli
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Vittoria Mezcal 29 x 2.35

[Jeremy Tavan]

Very interesting - and it also comes in a 67mm wide version which might 
work for a 27.5+ project I've got in the works. Thanks for linking to it!

On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 6:35:05 AM UTC-8, tc wrote:
>
> I just put some 2.*3*5 Mezcals on my 59 Clem and am really impressed!  
> This is an XC tire with a center tread pattern that is amazingly smooth and 
> quiet on pavement...so I'm hoping it will be a good fit for my 1/3 gravel, 
> 1/3 pavement/bike path, and 1/3 easy singletrack riding.
>
> IMHO, it's also a great-looking tire, with a dark graphite sidewall that 
> really looks smart with the Grilver-colored Clem.
>
> After I take it off-road I'll post more impressions.
>
> There are several reviews of this tire on the web.  Here's a good one by 
> Clint Gibbs on YouTube .
>
>
> 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Rivendell Poster

[Jeremy Tavan]

Wow, that's lovely. I wonder what it might take for them to issue another 
run of them? 

On Monday, February 19, 2018 at 8:27:06 AM UTC-8, Birdman wrote:
>
> Hey Bunch, 
> I’m searching for the poster below. I didn’t buy one from Riv when I had 
> the chance years ago. Anyone have an extra rolled up somewhere? 
> Isaac

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[RBW] Re: Frank Jones Sr. slightly-rugged build

[Jeremy Tavan]

Interesting - I will have a chat with my shop. Thanks! If it was not 
included in the package, then perhaps we can discuss with our buddies in 
Walnut Creek.

/J

On Tuesday, February 13, 2018 at 8:16:45 PM UTC-8, Dave Small wrote:
>
> Jeremy,
>
> On a concurrent Frank Jones thread, Belopsky linked to the information Riv 
> posted on the blahg about the Jones.  It had the following sentence:
>
> "*Headset:* Included, our standard FSA sealed—saves you $55"
>
> Dave
> Indianapolis, IN
>
>
> On Tuesday, February 13, 2018 at 9:38:47 PM UTC-5, Belopsky wrote:
>>
>>
>> I was under the impression these came with headset installed..?
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Frank Jones Sr. slightly-rugged build

[Jeremy Tavan]

Well, my shop didn't mention one, and we discussed what I wanted to use for 
it (going for a steel Tange Levin I think). So perhaps not included.

Will post full build once complete in a week or two.

On Tuesday, February 13, 2018 at 6:38:47 PM UTC-8, Belopsky wrote:
>
> Awesome!
>
> I was under the impression these came with headset installed..?
>

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[RBW] Frank Jones Sr. slightly-rugged build

[Jeremy Tavan]

So, I just checked with my dealer, and my Frank Jones Sr. frame has arrived 
and they're going to prep it for me (frame saver, face/chase, press crown 
race and headset) so I can then do the rest of the build. I've sourced 
somewhat heavy-duty wheels (rear Mavic A719 with Phil hub and DOS 16/19, 
front Velocity Atlas and Kasai dynamo), and I'm actually leaning towards 
taking advantage of the 38mm tire capacity to put on some Compass 
Steilacooms, and do the bike up with dirt drop stem and RM-013 bar. I'm 
thinking this would be super fun to ride around the gravel trails on and 
around the levees/salt ponds here in the Bay Area. Madness? Or just plain 
fun?

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[RBW] Re: Frank Jones Senor on the BLUG

[Jeremy Tavan]

If I didn't already have a bike with Albastache, that'd be my choice, too. I 
think I'm going to set it up with Compass Seilacooms and Nitto RM-013 on a dirt 
drop stem, because I don't have a bike like that yet.

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[RBW] Re: Albastache (or Moustache) Brake Lever Positions

[Jeremy Tavan]

For my commuter bike I'm very, very happy with Albastache bars with reverse 
levers and the (single) shifter a shortened Silver with a rubber cap on the 
end, mounted on a VO thumbie mount. I have some stoker knobs mounted on the 
curves where people usually mount their road brake levers, but honestly, I 
basically never use them. I like this handlebar setup enough that I'm 
tempted to duplicate it minus the shifter on my incoming Frank Jones Sr, 
though I try not to duplicate handlebars among my bikes. This setup gives a 
few really nice features:

1. The position in which you brake most is the least aggressive position 
the bar offers. There's no feeling like you're going to go over the bars if 
you hit the brakes hard.
2. At least three really nice hand positions: all the way back for 
starting/stopping/climbing, hands forward right up next to the shifter for 
"spirited" cruising in the high gears, and all the way forward on the 
curves for maximum aero (it doesn't take much for me to spin out this 42t 
1x6)
3. As you shift to higher gears your hands naturally move forwards into a 
more aggressive position, and as you shift down to the low gears your hands 
naturally move back to the less aggressive positions.
4. You can brake from all hand positions except right at the very front 
curves.



/Jeremy

On Saturday, February 10, 2018 at 7:11:26 PM UTC-8, Bob K. wrote:
>
> You could do bar end (“reverse aero”?) levers with the Albastache, but 
> then you’d be unable to use your bar end shifters. I don’t think you’d want 
> to mount levers anywhere else on those bars, if only because it would look 
> strange. 
>
> What about just going Albatross and buying brake levers? You can get 
> cheap, decent Tektro levers for V or canti brakes for like $20. Could fix 
> your geo/reach/height issue without even a new stem. I know that’s not what 
> you asked, but I thought I’d throw it out there. If you’re really looking 
> to stick with road-style levers, Albastache are nice. 
>
> Bob K. in Baltimore

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[RBW] Re: Bullmoose vs. Choco-moose

[Jeremy Tavan]

I'm not a huge fan, personally, of fully 90-degree-swept-back hand 
positions for any sort of rough surface riding. I think rough-terrain bars 
tend to be 45 degrees or less sweep for a reason probably something to do 
with differences in strength of different arm muscles. I do enjoy my 
Bullmoose bar (the long-reach version), but a little more sweep (like a 
Jones, a Surly Open Bar, or similar) wouldn't be a bad thing either. Even 
an albatross.

On Thursday, February 8, 2018 at 12:53:20 PM UTC-8, Ryan Merrill wrote:
>
> I'm pondering bars for my Appaloosa I ordered and have a choice to make.  
> I'm thinking about some sort of 'moose bar having already had the Bosco 
> Bullmoose in the past and liked them. My choice for this bike is coming 
> down to the regular Bullmoose bar or the Choco-moose bar but can't figure 
> out if I want a more flattish hand hold like a regular flat mtb bar or one 
> that puts my wrists like they would be on a choco bar...almost like if they 
> were on the drops of a drop bar, I guess. 
>
> I'll be using this bike primarily on gravel roads and singletrack mountain 
> bike trails with very little road riding going on, so quick handling, 
> secure gripping, and easy turning is a plus. 
>
> any ideas?  Do you think the reach to the bullmoose bars will be a bit too 
> dramatic compared to the choco bars on the Appaloosa?
>
> Next decisions will be what tires, what shifting mechanism, what crankset, 
> ect, ect, ect. (the fun part of buying a bike, IMHO.)
>
>
> thanks, 
>
>
> btw, I changed my name so no longer RJM
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Frank Jones Senor on the BLUG

[Jeremy Tavan]

I do love the clean and simple look. It makes me question my plans for a 
triple-crankset Frank Jones Sr. build (42x16, 36x19, 28x22). Hopefully we 
can keep everything else nice and clean like this. :)

On Wednesday, February 7, 2018 at 6:13:36 PM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I love the 'Rivendell custom' head lugs and Roadini seat cluster. And the 
> simple, straightforward look of the single drivetrain. Next to the word 
> 'bicycle' in the dictionary is a Frank Jones Sn.  

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Re: [RBW] Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

[Jeremy Tavan]

I volunteer to pick up that torch in a few months when the Bimoz motor for 
my MTBubbe comes in.

On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 9:29:19 PM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Hey, it could be worse, Mark. I could still be going on about Rivs with 
> electric motors ;-)

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[RBW] Re: Clem Smith Jr or Appaloosa as a mtb/gravel road bicycle.

[Jeremy Tavan]

Sure, Doug. Here's the original configuration with long-reach Bullmoose 
bars:
http://cl.ly/191I3L120C1F

Here it is today with Albatross bars, 47mm tires, and the Burley rack for 
hauling a kid's trailerbike:
http://cl.ly/0P1f1x342H22

And just for fun, my wife's 52cm (identical size) Clementine-L set up VERY 
upright with narrow V-O bars:
http://cl.ly/3d2O0L1A2P2n

On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 9:19:58 AM UTC-8, Doug H. wrote:

Jeremy,
> I am planning to try different bars on my Clem H. Could you post a few 
> pics of yours with the Albatross bars?
> Doug
>
> On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 11:36:30 AM UTC-5, Jeremy Tavan wrote:
>>
>> I bought a Clem off this list that was equipped with knobby tires and a 
>> 1x8 drivetrain and intended for riding around on local trails and gravel 
>> roads. I've shifted it through a number of different configurations and 
>> it's currently set up with Albatross bars and 47mm smooth tires, but it 
>> worked well with knobby tires on gravel. It's smooth and stable and 
>> comfortable to ride. With the long wheelbase it does take more lean to make 
>> tight turns, I noticed, but since the gravel roads don't really require 
>> tight turns I never found that to be an issue. It's a very fine bike 
>> indeed. Do be aware that it is _really_ long. I replaced it for commuting 
>> because it was too long to fit in Caltrain's bike racks without turning the 
>> front wheel to the side and taking up a lot of extra rack space.
>>
>> On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 8:30:17 AM UTC-8, RJM wrote:
>>>
>>> Does anybody on the list ride an Appaloosa or Clem Smith Jr. as a 
>>> mountain bike or have it set up primarily as a trail bike?  I've been 
>>> toying around with the idea of picking up a Riv to use on the local trails 
>>> and gravel roads and saw the Clem Smith on Riv's page. I must confess these 
>>> bikes weren't really on my radar until earlier this week until I really 
>>> started doing some research. It seems like the Clem or App might be perfect 
>>> for what I would like (the mustard color on the Clem is top notch!). 
>>>
>>> If you do have one, how does it ride for you? Do you like the long 
>>> chainstays?  How stable is the bike?  Any issues making quick turns with 
>>> the long wheelbase? 
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Clem Smith Jr or Appaloosa as a mtb/gravel road bicycle.

[Jeremy Tavan]

I bought a Clem off this list that was equipped with knobby tires and a 1x8 
drivetrain and intended for riding around on local trails and gravel roads. 
I've shifted it through a number of different configurations and it's 
currently set up with Albatross bars and 47mm smooth tires, but it worked 
well with knobby tires on gravel. It's smooth and stable and comfortable to 
ride. With the long wheelbase it does take more lean to make tight turns, I 
noticed, but since the gravel roads don't really require tight turns I 
never found that to be an issue. It's a very fine bike indeed. Do be aware 
that it is _really_ long. I replaced it for commuting because it was too 
long to fit in Caltrain's bike racks without turning the front wheel to the 
side and taking up a lot of extra rack space.

On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 8:30:17 AM UTC-8, RJM wrote:
>
> Does anybody on the list ride an Appaloosa or Clem Smith Jr. as a mountain 
> bike or have it set up primarily as a trail bike?  I've been toying around 
> with the idea of picking up a Riv to use on the local trails and gravel 
> roads and saw the Clem Smith on Riv's page. I must confess these bikes 
> weren't really on my radar until earlier this week until I really started 
> doing some research. It seems like the Clem or App might be perfect for 
> what I would like (the mustard color on the Clem is top notch!). 
>
> If you do have one, how does it ride for you? Do you like the long 
> chainstays?  How stable is the bike?  Any issues making quick turns with 
> the long wheelbase? 
>

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[RBW] Re: Suntour Power Thumb Shifters

[Jeremy Tavan]

I just mounted some (similar) Suntour XC thumb shifters today on the Rosco 
Bubbe step-through I'm building up. I'd tried the Sunrace one-at-a-time 
that Rivendell sell, and just didn't like the right shifter - to avoid 
slippage, it had to be cranked down so tight that it wasn't fun to shift. 
The Suntour is a lot smoother and feels great. They don't allow quite as 
much adjustment of exit angle as the Sunrace, but it's enough. I'd buy new 
clones if available. I hadn't expected to go all friction on this bike, but 
it may just work out that way.

On Saturday, January 20, 2018 at 5:54:02 PM UTC-8, J Imler wrote:
>
> Couldn't wait for Silver 2's. Bought NOS Suntours. Gotta say the 
> ratcheting noise I  hear makes me very optimistic I've got something good. 
> Anyone using these? I'll report back once installed, likely tomorrow. Great 
> looking too.

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[RBW] Re: Riv shipping, a new world record

[Jeremy Tavan]

I think every single order I've placed with Rivendell, aside from pre-order 
stuff, has shipped the day I ordered or the following day, with next day 
delivery. They're consistently the fastest-delivering bike parts source 
I've used, even faster than Amazon Prime in many cases.

On Thursday, January 11, 2018 at 7:51:50 AM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I put in an order at 2am this morning and just got a "shipped!" notice at 
> 730am. That's a turnaround of 5-and-a-1/2 hours and will probably be here 
> tomorrow, which qualifies as one day shipping! 
>
> This raises two questions: What the heck am I doing shopping online at 
> 2am, and who the heck is shipping at RBW at 7?? 樂

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[RBW] Re: Frank Jones, latest Knothole post

[Jeremy Tavan]

I had my LBS order a 55, but I think I was too late to get the silver one 
(my preference). That was fast. Oh well, the blue looks nice, too.

Now here's the fun question - do I build it up as a single speed or a 
3-speed IGH? 

On Tuesday, December 19, 2017 at 12:05:07 PM UTC-8, Belopsky wrote:
>
> Well, I ordered the 53.
>
> I was hoping to see geometry for the 55 but I think the 53 is right.
>

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[RBW] Re: Frank Jones Sr details

[Jeremy Tavan]

I'm also not a single-speeder, but I am very tempted to try it out. I've 
wanted a bike with the Rivendell classic lugs for quite some time, and I 
could build this up mostly with parts on hand as a single-speed drop bar 
commuter. I just need to know what's the largest size I can stand over with 
my short legs, and which color. I've wanted a silver Rivendell for a while, 
but I'm not sure about the darker gray "grilver" version. 

On Saturday, December 16, 2017 at 8:16:34 AM UTC-8, dougP wrote:
>
> I'm surprised a new thread hasn't already started on this:
>
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/peeking-through-the-knothole/genuinely-limited-edition-frank-jones-sr
>
> Grant lists plenty of detail regarding sizes, colors, availability, lots 
> of fiddly details, etc., etc.  Enough for a person to get excited.  While 
> I'm not a single speeder myself, I know a lot list members are so now's 
> your chance.  He mentions that ti would be really neat to move 'em into the 
> wild as soon as possible.  Now that I think about it, this would make a 
> great holiday gift for you or someone you love.
>
> dougP
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem H Last Chance

[Jeremy Tavan]

Heh. She and I both ride 52cm - mine with some post showing, hers with it 
slammed. There is noticeable flex when mashing the L, but not the happy planing 
type of flex, like my Reynolds 531 lightweight.

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[RBW] Re: Clem H Last Chance

[Jeremy Tavan]

Understandable, given the feedback on the two models I've been reading 
here. That said, I vastly prefer my Clem H to my wife's Clementine L. Hers 
is certainly prettier, but the flex bothers me.

/Jeremy

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 6:59:54 PM UTC-8, Doug H. wrote:
>
> The BLUG hints that this may be the last run of the Clem H. Get em while 
> you can!

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[RBW] Re: FS 51 Joe Appaloosa silver

[Jeremy Tavan]

If I didn't already have both a Clem and a MTBubbe (build forthcoming), I'd 
be all over this. I think the 51cm size would fit really nicely as a 
drop-bar bike, and the silver color is very classy. Good luck with the 
sale, and as Bob mentioned, maybe try again in the new year to see if 
there's more appetite.

On Friday, December 1, 2017 at 5:21:47 PM UTC-8, Andrew Huston wrote:
>
> Last drop before I fully give up selling. $1700 INCLUDES shipping, PayPal 
> f/f.  Unless it’s simply a crappy time of year to sell, I can’t figure out 
> what I need to do short of giving it away for free. 

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[RBW] Re: 52cm Clemetine Build

[Jeremy Tavan]

A very nice build! Why hadn't I seen that trick of mounting the porteur 
rack fence upside down as a light guard? That's elegant. I'm lucky enough 
to have a local bike shop who love to braze protected light mounts on 
existing racks, but this is a nice and less expensive solution.

/Jeremy

On Wednesday, November 29, 2017 at 1:04:05 PM UTC-8, lconley wrote:
>
>
> Pardon the fuzzy photo (dirty iPhone case):
>
>
> Frame: Black 52 cm curved stay Clementine (not to be confused with a 
> PC Clem L, although I do wish it had the "man climbing out of a manhole" 
> decal) with as-supplied headset and seatpost 
> Wheels: VO 650B touring with SP dynohub laced in by me - actually used the 
> same spokes. Rivendell Fatty Rumpkin Green Label 650B x 41 tires.
> Drivetrain: 1 x 9, Sugino double crank with Sugino chainring guard and 39T 
> SS Surly chainring, IRD 12-32 9 spd cassette, Wippermann 9 spd SS/nickel 
> chain, Shimano Altus derailleur, Sunrace shifter - reverse mounted.
> Pedals: MKS RMX sneaker
> Saddle: Brooks B-67 Honey
> Handlebars: Nitto Bullmoose Bosco, fillet brazed, with cork grips.
> Handlebar Bag: Jandd Mountain Handle Pack I, black, mounted on top of the 
> Bullmoose triangle
> Brakes: Tektro cantilever, Shimano levers, Surly rear hanger
> Fenders: Honjo hammered and fluted 650B with VO rear reflector and Honjo 
> minimalist large front mudflap
> Lighting: B Eyc in front and Secula Plus rear
> Accessories: VO Porteur front rack with large Wald basket and upside down 
> mounted rack fence to protect light, VO steering stabilizer, Pletscher 
> double kickstand, AXA Defender frame lock with plug-in chain (carried in 
> handlebar bag)
>
>

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[RBW] Re: MUSA button down shirts available at RivBike

[Jeremy Tavan]

I bought the shirt as soon as I saw it (in blue). It arrived today and 
after a quick pass with a steamer it's being worn immediately. Love it. No, 
it's not an inexpensive shirt, but it's unique, domestically made, and of a 
very nice fabric. I might get a second!

On Wednesday, November 22, 2017 at 9:34:13 PM UTC-8, Wayne Naha wrote:
>
> I would totally rock that shirt.  Multi-color buttons would actually be 
> cool.  But my wife would sock me in the shoulder, hard, if I spent $87.00 
> on a shirt.  One shirt!  Man, I don't want to see that face when the bank 
> statement comes in.
>
>
>> I would totally rock that shirt.  My wife would shake her head and make 
>> me get rid of it.  Maybe I'll get one and use it purely as a cycling shirt
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Hubbahhubbah build question - Motolite brakes?

[Jeremy Tavan]

Thanks David and Igor for the input. The solution, as it turned out, was 
just a little more brute force and ignorance. The fit of the rear dropouts 
on the rear hub was tight, and I hadn't gotten it fully seated. A little 
extra oomph and now things look like they'll line up.

David, that build looks reasonably close to what I'm doing on mine. Looks 
nice! I found that I had to use the skinnier of the two concave washers on 
the pad side of the brakes to make the wide rims fit, but it didn't require 
actual removal of any of the hardware. 

I'll get this thing buttoned up and take some pictures when I can. Just 
need to mount some tires, grips, pedals, racks, and lights. 

/Jeremy

On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 4:29:29 PM UTC-8, spru...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Jeremy,
>
> I used Motolite brakes on a Hubbahhubbah, and the fit was fussy. I had to 
> remove some of the adjustment hardware behind the pads in order to have 
> more space to play with. In the end, the brakes are great stoppers with 
> lots of control. 
>
> You can see some pictures here:
>
> https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=%21ABpyOee9cmpDYo8=03365C725CAF2D0E=3365C725CAF2D0E%2156693=3365C725CAF2D0E%2156689=OneUp
> There's one toward the end that shows one side of the rear brake with the 
> stripped hardware.
>
> David Sprunger
> Fargo, ND
>
> On Sun, Nov 19, 2017 at 5:15 PM, Jeremy Tavan <jta...@gmail.com 
> > wrote:
>
>> I'm building up a Hubbahhubbah, and everything has gone very smoothly (at 
>> least after getting the defective eccentric bottom bracket replaced), even 
>> though this is my first full-bike build from parts. I have run in to one 
>> challenge, however, involving the brakes. I've picked Paul Motolite 
>> linear-pull brakes and Velocity Cliffhanger rims, and the front brakes 
>> installed and adjusted very easily, with maybe 2-3mm of extra travel 
>> available to move the pad holders downwards before running out of lever 
>> arm. On the rear, however, even with the pad holders all the way down I 
>> cannot get the pads to land square on the brake track. It feels like the 
>> rear brake braze-ons are positioned slightly too high on the seatstays. 
>> Should I just live with it, with the brake pads hitting the rim at an angle 
>> right at the top of the brake track? Replace the wheels with 29ers? Tear 
>> the whole thing apart and have the braze-ons moved and the whole thing 
>> repainted? Try different brakes? I'm kind of bummed about this. Advice 
>> welcome!
>>
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>
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[RBW] Re: Hubbahhubbah build question - Motolite brakes?

[Jeremy Tavan]

That build makes me kind of wish they'd had a small orange in stock when my 
wife told me to buy a tandem frame and build it up. Super bold colors! Mine 
is a much more sedate blue with black accents. Ahh well. 

Regardless, while Motolites may have worked for that frame (and at least 
one other I've seen, I think?), I really don't think the fit is working on 
mine. I guess I could swap in some canti brakes and short-pull levers and 
see if I have better luck getting those adjusted. 

On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 3:59:56 PM UTC-8, Belopsky wrote:
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/145205068@N02/34169575094/in/dateposted/
>

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[RBW] Hubbahhubbah build question - Motolite brakes?

[Jeremy Tavan]

I'm building up a Hubbahhubbah, and everything has gone very smoothly (at 
least after getting the defective eccentric bottom bracket replaced), even 
though this is my first full-bike build from parts. I have run in to one 
challenge, however, involving the brakes. I've picked Paul Motolite 
linear-pull brakes and Velocity Cliffhanger rims, and the front brakes 
installed and adjusted very easily, with maybe 2-3mm of extra travel 
available to move the pad holders downwards before running out of lever 
arm. On the rear, however, even with the pad holders all the way down I 
cannot get the pads to land square on the brake track. It feels like the 
rear brake braze-ons are positioned slightly too high on the seatstays. 
Should I just live with it, with the brake pads hitting the rim at an angle 
right at the top of the brake track? Replace the wheels with 29ers? Tear 
the whole thing apart and have the braze-ons moved and the whole thing 
repainted? Try different brakes? I'm kind of bummed about this. Advice 
welcome!

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Re: [RBW] Re: "We’ll have “classic” single speed frames again...."

[Jeremy Tavan]

There's also the one from SunXCD, http://sunxcd.net/hubs/ - I use one in my 
commuter bike and like it.

On Tuesday, November 14, 2017 at 5:44:40 AM UTC-8, Belopsky wrote:
>
> Incorrect. 
> http://www.cyclesgrandbois.com/SHOP/gb_lfqr_R120126.html
>

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[RBW] Re: Panaracer Gravelking 650b - reviews - experience

[Jeremy Tavan]

I just put the 38mm ones on my Kogswell, because the 42mm Compass tires 
were interacting poorly with the fenders. They're definitely not as supple 
and smooth as the Compass tires, but seem acceptable so far. No flats yet, 
but I haven't yet put more than a hundred miles on them.

/Jeremy

On Thursday, November 9, 2017 at 8:05:26 AM UTC-8, Paul Choi wrote:
>
> Trying to decide on tires for a new build. This bike would be used as an 
> everything bike but mostly on road riding. They come in 38, 42 and 48 
> sizes. 
> I'm looking for a less expensive alternative to Compass that has better 
> flat protection since I will be commuting on this bike. 
>
> Anyone had any experience with these tires, please share. 
>
> Paul
> Santa Clara CA
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem L vs Roscoe Bubbe Mountain Mixte

[Jeremy Tavan]

Interesting - when I contacted them months ago they "didn't." Funny how 
that works.

On Wednesday, November 1, 2017 at 3:36:34 PM UTC-7, Andrew Huston wrote:
>
> I hate to report it to the masses in an effort to preserve the last one 
> but, yes they have one more. I cringe as I type this. The way I read your 
> comment is that it’s a do all. Not too different from all other Rivs. Crazy 
> as it may seem, I feel like tire clearance may make the decision. I’d like 
> to squeeze a 2.25 smart sam or at least a 2.1. 

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[RBW] Re: OT: New Bike Shed Day

[Jeremy Tavan]

Erl,

This is brilliant, and just the thing I've been looking for to free up the 
garage. I don 't suppose, having gone through this recently, that you have 
plans that you can share? Otherwise we can improvise, and the photos will 
help.

Thanks,
/Jeremy

On Monday, October 30, 2017 at 4:52:45 AM UTC-7, WETH wrote:
>
> Riv content is the Riv contents: Rosco Bubbe, Romulus, and Road Standard.
>
> Short version: photos of my two new bike sheds recreated from two photos 
> found online: 
> https://flickr.com/photos/86975051@N08/sets/72157687667377971
>
> Longer version:  I have been searching for a bike storage solution for a 
> few years to house my burgeoning bike collection.  Lot restrictions 
> including topography and house placement precluded a full size shed or 
> detached garage as practical or aesthetically desirable solutions.  Storage 
> inside the house was not optimal or convenient.  After searching online I 
> came across this intriguing design: https://flic.kr/p/YNFCKL 
> .
>  
> It looked compact and most importantly it looked like it would fit my 
> parameters: wouldn't obstruct the kitchen windows, would fit near the 
> backdoor and driveway between AC unit and screen porch, and would be easy 
> to secure & use.  After a fruitless search for plans for the shed I'd seen 
> or an owner of the photograph, I showed the photo to a few handymen and 
> found one willing to replicate it.  Since my wife and sons each have a 
> bike, I thought two sheds would be better than one!  N+1!
>
> I still need to paint the exteriors, install a lock on the doors, and 
> install some shelving and hooks inside for helmets and other gear.  (The 
> bikes are locked to each other in the meantime.)  I also need to find 
> stronger gas struts to hold the door up/open.  Overall I'm thrilled! I can 
> now keep all my bikes out of the weather, secured, and hidden all while 
> keeping them easy to take out and to secure when done!!  
> Same Photos here: 
> https://flickr.com/photos/86975051@N08/sets/72157687667377971
>
> Thanks for indulging my excitement,
> Erl
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 10x200 challenge complete

[Jeremy Tavan]

 This has been an extremely inspiring journey, and I've really enjoyed 
experiencing it through your writings. Thanks for all your efforts!

On Sunday, October 29, 2017 at 1:58:09 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> I had a six week sabbatical from late August to early October.  I decided 
> I would 'ride a lot', and I decided to give structure to that goal by 
> challenging myself to ride 200 miles on each of 10 bicycles over the 93 
> days of August, September and October.  On Friday the 27th, day 89, I 
> finished up my 200 miles on my Rosco Bubbe Road, which was bike number 
> ten.  I will probably be riding my new/old Univega Gran Premio for the 
> remaining days of October, so the final tally for the ten looks like
>
> 1.  1973 Windsor Carrera Sport: 208.8 miles
> 2.  1985 Schwinn Tempo (650B): 201.5 miles
> 3.  Rivendell Samueal Hillborne: 214.1 miles
> 4.  Niner RLT9 (650B): 609.3 miles
> 5.  Black Mountain Road (home):  206.8 miles
> 6.  Black Mountain Road (mom's house): 205.1 miles
> 7.  Rosco Bubbe Mixte Step Through: 245.5 miles
> 8.  Gunnar Two-speed singlespeed: 204.1 miles
> 9.  Niner Air 9 Carbon: 215.2 miles
> 10.  Rosco Bubbe Road: 212.1 miles
>
> Include a few bonus miles for my HubbuHubbuH tandem and my Univega Gran 
> Premio, I've got a running total of 2545.4 miles.  
>
> Even though things fell into place nicely, some things turned out a little 
> different from how I expected.  I thought that with work I would end up 
> doing roughly 500 miles in August, 1000 miles in September, and maybe 700 
> miles in October.  Even though I only had two or three sabbatical days in 
> August, that turned out to be my biggest month in mileage, with 1007 
> miles.  September, which I had completely off from work, will turn out to 
> be the month that I rode the fewest miles, at 772 miles.  October is at 756 
> miles, with three days left to go. I only had two days where I rode over 
> 100 miles, and only 11 over 50 miles. So, it's not like I was living on the 
> bike. I could easily envision this kind of pace during retirement, provided 
> I'm healthy (lob willing). 
>
> When I posted a 'complete' post on Instagram, a coworker thanked me for 
> earning him $10. He bet on my success and it paid off, which is cool. 
>
> As you obviously will notice, I only went WAY over 200 miles on one bike, 
> my Niner RLT9, aka the Niner Seven Fiver. I did a bunch of pre-rides for a 
> very challenging 200k brevet, and then completed the actual brevet 
> yesterday, so the mileage really added up. I had the rest of the 10x200 
> challenge under control, so I considered my extra Niner mileage almost 
> independently. 
>
> Setting a few achievable and measurable goals, months in the future, was a 
> really enjoyable experience for me. The El Cerrito High School Mountain 
> Bike Team has a pre-season Goals form that all the kids fill out for the 
> upcoming season, so I went ahead and filled it out for myself, too. Having 
> a plan and sticking to it can be a way to motivate oneself when inertia 
> sets in. What I found was that having a set of goals that were on-schedule 
> and on-target seemed to completely prevent the inertia ahead of time. I 
> honestly never said "crap, I have to ride THIS stupid bike again?", or 
> "gah, I really don't want to ride today". That intertia avoidance was 
> definitely assisted by the fact that I drink a lot less alcohol now. I even 
> took a month holiday from beer in September. I don't think I was a heavy 
> boozer before, nor am I completely dry now, but there's no question I feel 
> better in the mornings when I consume less. 
>
> I was 180lbs on August 1, best-case. I set a much longer than 3 month goal 
> to lose 20lbs.  I've lost 12lbs so far and I've moved the target to 155.  I 
> expect that this continuing goal will help me keep my diet and other habits 
> healthy, so I don't lose things that I've gained. I'm considering putting 
> running back into the activities I do, partially because it takes a lot 
> less time to get the work in, and partially out of envy that all my racers 
> on the El Cerrito High Mountain Bike team are running on the cross country 
> team for their off-season work.  
>
> Thanks to the group for your kindness in letting me blather on about 
> myself. It would have been very easy to be less generous. Some of you get 
> these posts over email, and I'm sure some of you said to yourself "HIM, 
> again!?" Hopefully it wasn't too tiresome. 
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: Anyone selling a mountain mixte?

[Jeremy Tavan]

Heh. I picked up the last one to show up for sale here, and it's currently 
waiting on powder coat before build. It sounds like they were a hit, so I 
wouldn't be too surprised if Riv made more of them, but it might be a 
while. Best of luck in your search.

On Sunday, October 29, 2017 at 6:12:26 PM UTC-7, Belopsky wrote:
>
> jus wondering...

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[RBW] Re: Fender Mounted Rear Dynamo Light?

[Jeremy Tavan]

The only other issue I've had with the fender-mounted rear dynamo light, at 
least the classy one from Velo Lumino, is that it sticks out and gets 
banged on things if I'm not really careful. But boy, does it ever look good!

On Tuesday, October 24, 2017 at 8:36:13 AM UTC-7, Tom Norton wrote:
>
> Anyone had any experience with the above type light?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Finally building up the Hubbah Hubbah- any tips?

[Jeremy Tavan]

Sorry, should have been more specific. I had them face the rear bottom
bracket shell and the head tube prior to installing the headset. Possibly
not necessary, but seemed like a good practice and they had the appropriate
tools.

As far as tires go, I'll probably go with something along that size as
well, either WTB Horizons or Compass Switchback Hill.

On Sat, Oct 21, 2017 at 7:08 AM 'Tim' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Ok, I'm going to build it myself. What's the worst that can happen? I'll
> have to have someone fix my mess, which I have had to do before. I'm
> thinking maybe Schwalbe Big Bens, 48mm. Good flat protection, long wearing.
>
> Jeremy Taven said he took his tandem to LBS for tube/BB facing (and to
> install headset). Does that mean having the BB threads chased?  I didn't do
> that with the Sam and Hunq I built up. I think maybe once I read that it
> either wasn't necessary or that Riv does that when they get the frames. And
> I don't know what "tube facing" would be, unless I just misconstrued the
> post.
>
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[RBW] Re: Finally building up the Hubbah Hubbah- any tips?

[Jeremy Tavan]

No specific advice to add to what's below, but I'm in the same boat, having 
just picked up frame and cranks from Riv. I brought mine to LBS for 
tube/rear BB facing and headset installation, but plan on doing the rest 
myself. I'll keep an eye out for your status reports as the thing comes 
together.

/Jeremy

On Friday, October 20, 2017 at 5:55:18 AM UTC-7, Tim wrote:
>
> I just ordered the wheels and stoker Bosco bars from Riv for the tandem. I 
> got the cranks when I was in Walnut Creek over the summer so I have all of 
> the Riv-specific parts I need. I plan on taking Grants suggestion of having 
> it assembled at an LBS. I thought about doing it myself. I'm a somewhat 
> competent mechanic. I've built up 2 Riv's and do almost all of my own work 
> (I get stumped or lazy occasionally, though.) When I talked to Roman 
> yesterday he said getting the timing chain tensioned correctly was one 
> pitfall on tandems. Are there others? I guess I'm considering doing the 
> work myself since it is always rewarding when it works. Otherwise, I need 
> to find out which LBS has tandem experience here in KC. To be quite honest, 
> when I've had adjustments on my other bikes made at the LBS, their work is 
> no better than mine. And I see Sheldon has instructions on the timing chain 
> setup. Bottom line: DYI assembly or not? How much rocket science is 
> involved?

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[RBW] Re: Surprised that proto rosco is still available

[Jeremy Tavan]

It's the fat-tired medium-sized step-through frame as 
discussed 
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/rbw-owners-bunch/47u-pEKwvK8/Gd6hokTcCAAJ 
- though the frame I have is in a Sage color from the initial batch. When I 
spoke to Roman about its design particulars, here's what I believe he said 
(though it's been a while, my memory may be slightly off)... 2cm shorter 
virtual top tube and slightly shorter chainstays than my 52cm Clem H, and 
it uses the fork from an Appaloosa, so slightly less tire clearance (though 
I haven't come close to filling the clearance on the Clem).

On Friday, October 6, 2017 at 4:30:24 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> What is a MTBubbe, and what size? I've lost track of the various Rosco 
> variations that were produced. 

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[RBW] Re: Surprised that proto rosco is still available

[Jeremy Tavan]

I love the color and shape of this one, and 700x45 would be PLENTY of air 
and rubber for anything I'd use it for - but I just picked up a MTBubbe 
frame and haven't built THAT up yet. Just poor timing, or I'd have already 
bought it. In fact, if someone would like a MTBubbe frame, I _will_ buy 
this one instead, it'd work fine for the project I have in mind.

/Jeremy


On Friday, October 6, 2017 at 4:17:36 PM UTC-7, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>
> Aren't the Mountain "mixtes" 650B? Who woulda thought the day would come 
> when a 700x45 doesn't cut the mustard? Personally if I go fatter the 
> overall circumference starts to mess with handling beyond this width in 
> 700c. I like 650B or 26" for 42+. What cool, gorgeous bicycle.  If I had 
> another room in my apartment and a discretionary $1600 I would buy it just 
> because it is so darn sweet and awesome. Holy cow.
>
> On Friday, October 6, 2017 at 4:43:42 PM UTC-4, Surlyprof wrote:
>>
>> Could be the maximum tire width.  That's what nixes it for me.  What was 
>> so appealing to me about the mountain mixte was how fat a tire it could 
>> support.  The Roscoe on sale now only has the clearance of a Hillborne.  
>>
>> John
>>
>> On Friday, October 6, 2017 at 11:41:55 AM UTC-7, Daniel D. wrote:
>>>
>>> $1600 for a MUSA complete rivendell from HQ.  Really surprised it hasn't 
>>> sold yet.Slightly too big for me, what's a cm...
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Diff between slick GravelKing and Compass Babyshoe Pass? Looks the same. Described the same.

[Jeremy Tavan]

I have the Fairweather 700x32 in red on my sparkly burgundy English 
lightweight. They look right, and ride very comfortably. I haven't compared 
them directly with Compass in that size, but my feeling of the casings is 
that they're relatively light and supple, but not Compass light. I'm quite 
pleased with them. Have had one flat in 850 miles of commuting, when I ran 
over a large construction staple, which went all the way through and lodged 
in the tube.

/Jeremy 

On Friday, October 6, 2017 at 5:30:45 AM UTC-7, Scott G. wrote:
>
> For good tires go here.
>
> http://www.fmbtires.com/fmb_paris_roubaix_pro.htm 
> 
>
> Only $160 for 32mm FMB PR Pros, as used by Tom Boonen.
> I'd ride them, but I'd cry if I flatted them.
>
> Anyone try Fairweather tires, yet another Panaracer/Compass variant ?
>
> https://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/tires-tubes-rim-tape/fairweather-traveler-tire-700x32.html
>  
> 
> The red ones would be great for old Brit bikes.
>
> Happy Compass/GB tire user since 2006
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Huge Rosco Mixte

[Jeremy Tavan]

Darn it, and I just found and bought a medium MTBubbe frameset. This is a 
prettier color, not quite the right wheel configuration, but a good price 
and just my size, even to the long virtual top tube. Maybe I get the 
dinged-up MTBubbe repainted that nice blue.

On Wednesday, October 4, 2017 at 9:37:50 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Y'all non-huge types check the Specials at Rivbike. There's a 54-60 
> step-through with lifty bar there. 

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[RBW] Re: Diff between slick GravelKing and Compass Babyshoe Pass? Looks the same. Described the same.

[Jeremy Tavan]

I just installed a pair of the 650Bx38 of the slick GravelKing. The casing 
is definitely heavier than the Compass tires - it's definitely not the same 
thing rebranded, though Panaracer does manufacture both tires. It's a 
comfortable enough tire, and hopefully reasonably durable, but it's not 
equivalent to the Compass.

On Wednesday, October 4, 2017 at 3:41:25 PM UTC-7, lum gim fong wrote:
>
>  
> https://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/panaracer-gravelking-slick-650x42mm-brown-sidewall
>   
> Panaracer rebranded?
>
> Not an accusation, just curious, because if it is the same tire I'd like 
> to save the 40$ per pair by buying these.
>
> Anyone know?
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa/Albastache Stem Question

[Jeremy Tavan]

When I put my commuter bike together with an albastache bar, I found when I 
used it as intended, with road brake levers mounted on the curves, that I 
had to have the bars quite high relative to the seat or else I'd feel like 
I was going to take a nose dive over the bars while braking. I ended up not 
liking the normal hooded drop bar brake setup, and I am using reverse brake 
levers with the bars mounted around saddle height. The curves are a little 
above saddle height, the grips slightly below - a little tilt makes 
everything feel better. To get the bars up this high I'm using a technomic 
stem. As far as length is concerned, really it's just a matter of what's 
comfortable for your torso and arm length. Because I spend most of my time 
holding the grips at the ends of the bar and because I have a very long 
torso and fairly long arms, I use a very long (120mm?) stem. The end result 
is extremely comfortable, though not very rigid. Hit a bad bump and the 
whole assembly wobbles until I can get it back under control, but part of 
that is the flexible vintage steel frame as well. 

Photo of the setup:
http://cl.ly/053y3W2c3T1r

/Jeremy

On Saturday, September 23, 2017 at 7:30:26 AM UTC-7, John Casteen wrote:
>
> I bought a used Joe Appaloosa that had been purchased complete and tricked 
> out really beautifully by its first owner-- many thoughtful choices about 
> gear and parts to customize and/or upgrade from the Rivendell build.  Among 
> them is an Albastache bar, which is new to me; it's great.  The bike fits 
> me perfectly except for the fact that the stem, a Nitto 7 cm Chrystem, has 
> too little height to raise the bars where I think they should be, which is 
> maybe an inch above the saddle.  I end up with a bit more weight on my arms 
> and hands than I'd like; the stem, maxed out, sits about an inch below the 
> nose of the saddle.  I think it's going to take a different stem to jack up 
> the bars, but before diving into that, two questions: first, does anyone 
> have advice about stem lengths that generally work for these bars, and 
> second, am I seeing this right?  Do other Albastache riders generally run 
> the stem height just at or above seat height, where I'm sort of aiming to 
> put it?
>
> Thanks in advance for any wisdom you can pass along--
>
> John
>

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[RBW] WTB: Anyone change their mind about a MTBubbe?

[Jeremy Tavan]

I passed on the first production run of the MTBubbe, and since then have 
changed my mind and would like to build one - anyone get one and change 
their mind about building it up? I could try to get on the waiting list for 
if they decide to do another run, but who knows how long that will be.

/Jeremy

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[RBW] Re: Favorite Platform Pedals

[Jeremy Tavan]

I love these pedals, except for the dust caps that fall off if you don't 
Loctite them, and then the pedal develops lateral play and you have to keep 
re-tightening them. I have three or four pairs, and have started to loctite 
all the dust caps that haven't fallen off and gotten lost yet. 

/Jeremy

On Sunday, September 3, 2017 at 9:13:53 AM UTC-7, William R. wrote:
>
> Really happy with the VP "Push N2" aka VP-539 pedals that came stock on my 
> Appaloosa. They are super grippy with 10 spikes per side. Nice and thin 
> like the more expensive gripsters, but they also have reflectors. I liked 
> them so much that I bought a couple pairs online (Riv does not sell them) 
> for $26 each. But the originals are still going strong after thousands of 
> miles of heavy (me!) use. My son has a pair on his cross check and likes 
> them a lot. And I still have a new back up pair. They are black if that is 
> an issue. The main platforms are some kind of super tough plastic.
>
> Bill in Westchester, NY
>

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Re: [RBW] New Bike Day--R05C0 8U883 Medium Mountain Mixte

[Jeremy Tavan]

On Sunday, September 3, 2017 at 6:15:20 AM UTC-7, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>
> Which brings me to another question: What are the effective geometry/other 
> design differences between the MMMs and the Clem Ls (other than the lift a 
> tube, which the Clem L already naturally possesses)? Shorter virtual top 
> tube, so that drops can be used?
>

I was interested in this frame, and spoke with Roman on the phone about it 
briefly the other day. Versus my 52cm Clem (H, but I think the L has 
similar or identical geometry), the R05C0 8U883 
not-exactly-a-mixte-but-whatever has a slightly shorter top tube (59 vs 
61cm), somewhat shorter chainstays (don't remember the exact number), the 
Appaloosa fork instead of the Clem fork (so, slightly narrower max tire 
size), and no lugs except the fork crown. And, of course, it's  a 
not-exactly-a-mixte-but-whatever like the Cheviot, and not a full 
step-through like the Clem L. I wonder if the lifter tube adds enough 
stiffness down by the bottom bracket.

I found on my Clem H 52cm that I wasn't really comfortable with a dirt drop 
stem and handlebar, but it was a fairly close thing. It's possible that the 
R05C0 8U883 with dirt drop would work for me. But I'm pretty long-torsoed. 
Your mileage may vary. In the end, I decided I'm content with my Clem H for 
the purposes to which I put it, so I think I'm going to pass on getting in 
on the next batch of these - not different enough, though it's a very 
interesting frame and I look forward to seeing more of them built up. 

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[RBW] Re: Anyone tried a Copenhagen wheel on their Rivbike??

[Jeremy Tavan]

Low power, low weight is exactly what I'm looking for. Just a little 
something to help with stop/starts while hauling modest loads (like a kid 
on a trailercycle, or a couple bags of groceries) around town. It pushed 
all the right buttons for the project I've got in mind. Were I building up 
a true cargo bike with a big box or an extended tail, I'd be more 
interested in the high power mid drive kits, but for this the elegance of a 
direct drive seems suitable. And hey, it's a toy.

On Monday, August 28, 2017 at 7:22:57 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> It appears to be a low power, low weight mid-drive for the price of higher 
> power/weight systems. Cool if that's what you're looking for, but it seems 
> geared more towards the very restrictive European market. 

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[RBW] Re: Anyone tried a Copenhagen wheel on their Rivbike??

[Jeremy Tavan]

I am apparently a sucker for crowdfunded technology projects, against my 
better judgement. I've pre-ordered one of these and will be installing it 
on my Clem. I will share my results, when and if it arrives.

/Jeremy

On Monday, August 28, 2017 at 12:16:46 PM UTC-7, Ash [who works to bike] 
wrote:
>
> If ever someone gets to try this, please post your experience 
> http://www.bimoz.ch/de/
>
>
>
>
>
> On Saturday, 26 August 2017 07:40:08 UTC-7, lum gim fong wrote:
>>
>> https://content.superpedestrian.com/the-copenhagen-wheel
>>
>> My wife talks electric bikes. Thought I could get her a rivbike and then 
>> just pop a Copenhagen wheel on there.
>> Clean, and she doesn't have to ride a 55lb electric bike.
>> Anyone tried it on their riv?
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem H with drop bars?

[Jeremy Tavan]

Just as a follow-up, I have removed the dirt drop bars after a few rides. 
While it was comfortable enough to ride, I just wasn't a fan of the overall 
aggressive feel of the bike set up that way, particularly for the family 
rides with my son on the trailer bike clamped to the back of the Clem. I've 
put on a set of Albatross bars on a long (130mm, 105°) stem that I had 
handy, and this seems to put the bars in a comfortable place for me. I'll 
know more after some test rides, but this more-conventional approach seems 
like it may work better. Oh well - it was an easy enough experiment.

/Jeremy

On Sunday, July 30, 2017 at 1:11:16 PM UTC-7, Jeremy Tavan wrote:
>
> As requested. In the future, there's going to be an Ostrich front bag 
> attached to the decaleur, but I need to add a snap strap in the front to 
> keep it from flopping around over bumps, first.
>
> /Jeremy
>
> On Sunday, July 30, 2017 at 10:18:15 AM UTC-7, Irreguleur wrote:
>>
>> If you find the time, I'd love to see some photos of the setup.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem H with drop bars?

[Jeremy Tavan]

OK, I went out for a 25-mile road/MUP/gravel trail ride this morning on the 
dirt drop Clem. 

I have no complaints about braking power with the non-aero levers plus Avid 
V-brakes. It DOES take more pull of the lever to get the "I have to stop 
immediately" level of brake force, but it does indeed get there. And I 
guess that means it's easily modulated. It's certainly a LOT more powerful 
than the reverse brake levers and Silver long-reach calipers on my commuter 
bike - that's very much a "speed reducer" setup, and not a "stopper" setup. 
As far as the Clem + dirt drop bar layout, it seems to work. The top of the 
bar gives a more-upright position than the old (long-reach) bullmoose bar, 
while the drops are significantly more aggressive and low/forward, but not 
excessively. I found it easier to control the bike over gravel with the 
dirt drop bar than the bullmoose - it felt a lot less like fighting wheel 
flop (counter-steering) and more like pointing where I wanted to go.  Not 
sure how I'd fare with a "standard" 90-110mm stem, but this is working OK 
so far.

After a few rides on them, I feel like the Schwalbe Big Ones (650Bx2.35) 
are just too much of a good thing. They're plush and comfortable and supple 
and fast-rolling, sure, but they're just too huge and I'm having trouble 
adapting to the steering geometry that results. Additionally, they puncture 
really, really easily - even the "SnakeSkin" version. Not sure what I'll 
try on the Clem next - Thunder Burts are not much smaller, but they do have 
the edge knobs to hopefully slide around less on loose dirt. Or maybe the 
Compass 650Bx48mm? 

/Jeremy

On Saturday, July 29, 2017 at 1:09:35 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Old school non-areo levers do seem to pull a lot of cable so you may be 
> ok. In fact, you may have found the first brakes those things actually work 
> on: Dia-Compe non-aero levers with single-pivot sidepulls or centerpulls 
> are what can best be described as "speed reducers" ;-)

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[RBW] Re: Clem H with drop bars?

[Jeremy Tavan]

I just mounted a dirt drop setup on my Clem H 52cm and will test it out on 
local gravel roads tomorrow morning, I think. I have a long torso, so it 
certainly doesn't seem too stretched out, but it's sure a lot more 
aggressive than the bullmoose bars that I took off! 

Question for folks: I'm using Dia Compe non-aero brake levers with V-brakes 
(Avid). It seems to have ample travel for full braking power, despite their 
being road levers not intended for linear pull. Am I going to kill myself 
somehow?

/Jeremy

On Friday, July 28, 2017 at 7:15:06 PM UTC-7, Christopher Murray wrote:
>
> Has anyone out there tried a Clem with drop bars? I know the TT is long 
> but wonder if a shorter stem could make it work. I'd be a 52cm and I think 
> the top tube is 61cm so it would be a very, very short stem. 
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
>

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[RBW] Re: Current location(s) for visiting Rivendell?..

[Jeremy Tavan]

In the South Bay, one can visit Silva Cycles in Campbell. They're a 
Rivendell dealer and nice folks. They don't keep the same sort of stock as 
Rivendell HQ, of course, but one can certainly test ride Rivendell bikes 
along with some other interesting stuff there.

/Jeremy

On Monday, July 24, 2017 at 9:31:14 PM UTC-7, Evan E. wrote:
>
> Hi Max,
>
> As far as I know, Rivendell headquarters is the only Rivendell place to 
> visit when you're in the Bay Area. They do have a showroom there, though. 
> And, as you likely already know, a bunch of friendly Riv folk.
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Shopsack or Sugarloaf

[Jeremy Tavan]

I have and love a waxed canvas Sugarloaf bag. It makes me sad that they no 
longer offer the waxed canvas option. It's an expensive little bag, but has 
a lot of good organization pockets on the inside - there's a lot more work 
that goes into making it than goes into a simple sack-type bag. It has a 
zipper pocket on one internal side, and a divided open-top flap pocket on 
the other internal side. I use it for my commute, and fit 1-2 
(ultraportable, tiny) laptops, limited change of clothes, and all my 
electronic doodads in it. It's a tight fit, but it works, and the bag 
attaches to the basket easily and securely. When I need to haul more, I use 
a R.E.Load basket bag with its greater height and capacity.

Hope this helps,
/Jeremy

On Tuesday, May 30, 2017 at 9:14:26 AM UTC-7, Davey Two Shoes wrote:
>
> Hello all!
> I hope everyone had a great weekend of riding. I did!
> I'm looking to bring my basket to a more organized place. The old bungie 
> and random bag move is growing tired and I'm interested in either the 
> Sackville Shopsack or the  Swift Sugarloaf for my medium wald. Plenty of 
> glowing opinions on the Sackville but I haven't been able to find much on 
> the Swift Sugarloaf. Anyone have any knowledge to drop on my head?
>

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[RBW] Re: Albastache Setup Question.

[Jeremy Tavan]

This may be of less use because a very different application, but I tried 
the Albastache (briefly) with regular non-aero drop levers and just didn't 
feel confident on them, so I worked out with my shop this alternative take 
on the Albastache: reverse brake levers, long rubber BMX grips, 
cut-down-and-rubber-capped Silver shifter as a thumb shifter, and Dia Compe 
tandem stoker hand rests. I'm very pleased with this setup for my commuter 
bike. Good access to brakes from both the most-upright position and the 
more-stretched-out cruising position right on the start of the curves.

https://cl.ly/053y3W2c3T1r

/Jeremy

On Friday, May 26, 2017 at 5:48:10 PM UTC-7, David Banzer wrote:
>
> For those with albastache setups, how wide do you position brake levers? 
> Specifically, I'll be using Shimano aero levers, how wide from hood tip to 
> hood tip?
> Build in process here: https://www.instagram.com/p/BUk3fHaBh3G/
> BMC Monstercross with big ol' tires. 
> David

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[RBW] Re: Dropbar Appaloosa

[Jeremy Tavan]

This makes me ponder finding a shortish stem (dirt drop?) and doing 
something similar with my Clem for a change of pace. I have some 
short-reach Fairweather MOD174 bars that might work...

/Jeremy

On Sunday, May 21, 2017 at 5:13:01 PM UTC-7, Sky Coulter wrote:
>
> Well I bought a 55 appa, sizing down, and made it a dropbar bike.  I've 
> been super busy for the last month or so and haven't had a chance to start 
> putting it together until today. Happily, the fit is very similar to my 
> 60cm saluki, just with more seatpost exposed.  It isn't done yet, but I 
> think it's gonna work out just about perfect.
>
> Sky in new west
>

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar Bliss

[Jeremy Tavan]

I didn't specifically _swap_ from drop bars to Albastaches, but when I put 
together my commute bike I decided I wanted to try Albastache bars and have 
found a combination that seems to work really well for me. Albastache bars, 
Dia Compe stoker hand supports out front, a thumb shifter, and reverse 
brake levers. I love how wide the upright position is, I love still being 
able to brake (with the little fingers) from my preferred cruise position 
right at the start of the curves, and there's also the extra-stretched-out 
position on the forward hand supports for mixing things up. The only thing 
that's not really working well is the thumbie-mounted Silver friction 
shifter (cut down lever with rubber grip). It's not holding tension 
properly and has to be snugged tight at least once per ride, sometimes 
more. But that's a subject for another thread. I did notice that with the 
Albastache, it was really important to get the stem up higher than the 
saddle to avoid feeling like I was going to go over the handlebars during 
stops. Now that I've done that, I think this setup is a keeper.

/Jeremy



On Monday, May 15, 2017 at 9:54:35 AM UTC-7, David Banzer wrote:
>
> I'm in the process of swapping Nitto B132s on my BMC Monstercross for 
> Albastaches. The drops worked fine on the bike, but more muddier rides I 
> think I'll enjoy the wider, slightly more upright bar.
> I've tried original mustaches before and they didn't work for me on longer 
> rides, but the Albastaches are looking like they might work just fine.
> David
>
>
> On Sunday, May 14, 2017 at 4:01:17 PM UTC-5, Broccoli Cog wrote:
>>
>> Looking for thoughts from those of you who have switched from drop bars 
>> to something more upright such as the Mustache or Albatross.Why did you end 
>> up switching and what was the outcome? 
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: tires for clem

[Jeremy Tavan]

Bought my Clem off this list with a mismatched pair: knobby WTB Bee Line 
2.2" in the front, smooth-ish Vee Speedster 1.95" in back. I've been pretty 
happy with them for general use, but I expect to trade them out eventually 
and I think the next tires on this bike will be Schwalbe Big Ones in 2.1" - 
smooth and supple, from what I hear. 

On Sunday, May 7, 2017 at 8:44:17 PM UTC-7, Davey Two Shoes wrote:
>
> Hi everyone
> I' love my clem (riv stock build) but I'd like to upgrade the tires from 
> the 1.75 kendas to something bigger and more supple. In a perfect world 
> Compass would make a 27.5 x 2.3 tire but thats not happening. What are some 
> of you clem riders running?
> Thanks
> Dave
>

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[RBW] Re: Any recommendations for grips on a Bullmoose handlebar?

[Jeremy Tavan]

I use bullmoose bars on my Clem, and have been using WTB Comfort Zone grips 
on them. I find them quite comfortable. If I were doing more aggressive 
off-road riding where I needed to be able to rotate my grip more, I'd 
probably go with something more rounded, but for my use (mainly pavement, 
occasional trail) these have worked well and are inexpensive.

https://www.wtb.com/products/comfort-zone-clamp-on

/Jeremy

On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 8:44:58 PM UTC-7, Max Bergen wrote:
>
> I'm putting a Bullmoose handlebar on my new Hunqapillar. Using the bike 
> for commuting around town (pavement) 50% of the time and trail riding 
> around Southern California the other 50% of the time. 
>
> Would appreciate any and all recommendations for a pair of grips. 
>  
>
> Cheers, 
> Max
> San Diego
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 650b rim brake wheelset / SON28, White Ind, Velocity / $700

[Jeremy Tavan]

I'd also love these as a fancier, beefier, upgraded wheelset for my Clem - 
but since the existing one is working fine (dynamo and all), I just can't 
justify it. I'm sure someone will jump on this. They look great. Good luck 
with sale indeed!

/Jeremy

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[RBW] Re: How are some Appaloosa owners loading up their bikes for commuting?

[Jeremy Tavan]

On Friday, March 3, 2017 at 6:59:31 PM UTC-8, Ed Carolipio wrote:
>
>
> One issue I had with other bikes in running this particular setup in the 
> rear was the offset load - one heavy pannier on the left side - noticeably 
> affected handling. That's not a problem with the Appaloosa. Also, I've 
> experimented with multiple pannier bags and didn't have a problem with heel 
> strike, nor did I really need to make extreme adjustments to the pannier 
> hooks to get the bag to work right.
>

I used to commute with a Clem with one heavy pannier (Arkel shopping bag 
pannier) in the rear, and like you, I never noticed any significant effect 
on handling. That was really sweet. And, of course, with those long 
chainstays, it's really easy to mount rear bags. I've since switched the 
commute to a lighter (and more importantly, shorter wheelbase) frame/bike 
with a front basket carrying all my gear, and while I don't like the 
handling effects of weight up front like that, I do like having my stuff in 
the front for visibility and ease of access. Regarding front bags for the 
Wald basket, I've been swapping back and forth between a Swift sugarloaf 
bag in waxed canvas, which I love, and a Reload custom-color basket bag, 
which holds more and costs less, but is covered in velcro which doesn't mix 
well with wool clothing. The sugarloaf is a fantastic option for those of 
us with VERY small laptops.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Albastache more comfortable than the original road Moustache?

[Jeremy Tavan]

I have the Ahearne MAP bars on my Kogswell, combined with a long (120mm) 
stem. I find that it works beautifully with my shoulder/arm shape for a 
somewhat aggressive but very comfortable position on the grips, plus a nice 
second position on the forward curves that still allows access to the brake 
levers. I'm using comically-long 4-finger brake levers and it's super.

/Jeremy

On Wednesday, January 18, 2017 at 1:02:33 PM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> I have the wider version of the Jitensha bars, Ahearne Map bars - they're 
> only longer in the grip section - otherwise, the shape is identical.  
> After about 100mi, I had the bar rotation perfect for completely relaxed 
> hands, no matter long the ride.  Really like them.  
>
> On Tuesday, January 17, 2017 at 9:08:46 PM UTC-6, Bill in Roswell GA wrote:
>>
>> Patrick,  FWIW, I just put Jitensha bars on an old Trek Elance 400 to 
>> make it a short run bike.  Like you,  I like that it's flat,  no rise. I 
>> like the sweep,  puts wrist in a natural position. Grip area has just 
>> enough room for city levers, not for Paul bar shifters.  
>>
>> Really like the position,  same level as top of drops,  just a bit of 
>> forward lean to get weight on sit bones.  There are bars w longer grip area 
>> but this was experimental,  not ready to drop a lot of cash on it.  
>>
>> Cheers
>> Bill
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: PSA: Do NOT buy a Rivendell bicycle with a Lift-a-tube

[Jeremy Tavan]

Such a simple idea that makes so much sense. Glad it hear it really pans 
out in real life.

For those of us with bikes that we really like and don't really want to 
replace, some of the magic is available via buckle-on lift handles 
like https://www.etsy.com/listing/230724213/bicycle-handle-bicycle-leather-frame

/Jeremy

On Tuesday, January 17, 2017 at 11:47:54 AM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Sorry for the provocative title, it's sarcastic.  Here's the punchline 
> content:
>
> If you carry bikes up and down stairs frequently, you might be tempted to 
> buy one of the Rosco Bubbe frames with a Lift-a-tube.  I was tempted like 
> you, and I bought one.  I've commuted with it for a couple weeks, and now I 
> can report that you should not buy one.because it will make you hate 
> how lame and stupid all your other bikes are when it comes to portaging up 
> and down stairs.  
>
> I've had to use a different bike as my BART bike the last two days, and 
> carrying it up and down BART stairs in the past was "fine".  It was "not a 
> big problem".  Now that I'm conditioned to the excellence of the 
> lift-a-tube, carrying a normal bike up the stairs is like an inhuman 
> torture device.  I'm telling you, if you think it's fine carrying your bike 
> up stairs or down stairs, then DO NOT try a lift-a-tube bike, because it 
> will ruin you.  Remain in the bliss of your ignorance.  
>
> Seriously though, using a different bike made it sink in just how awesome 
> the lift-a-tube is.  If you never carry a bike up or down stairs, you don't 
> need a lift-a-tube.  If the bike you carry up and down stairs is stripped 
> down, light weight and uncluttered so it's easy to shoulder, then you 
> probably don't need a lift-a-tube.  The liftatube is fabulous for everybody 
> else, and I'm now in a state where I probably won't use most of my other 
> bikes as BART bikes, because I'm spoiled by the lift-a-tube.  If you have a 
> bunch of bikes and don't want to be similarly spoiled, don't try a 
> lift-a-tube bike.  
>
> You're welcome
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Stovetop Espresso (moka pot) tips please

[Jeremy Tavan]

As a dedicated Italophile, I find myself wishing I could love moka pot 
(macchinetta) coffee. I've tried. A lot. But the sad truth is that they 
just don't make great coffee compared to other methods. If you want 
espresso, you can't substitute a moka pot for a proper macchina. If you 
want strong coffee in a longer format than espresso, the Aeropress just 
makes a better cup than the moka pot does, by a mile. (Just don't follow 
the temperature and dilution instructions in the package.) More volume than 
that? Pour-over (individual mugs or a Chemex for multiples). Then I've been 
getting into cold brew recently, and that's much better with ice and cream 
than moka pot coffee. 

I own a bunch of moka pots that collect dust these days - the only time I 
make moka pot coffee is when I'm visiting Italy and every rental apartment 
has one or three on the shelf, and no other brewing equipment.

Good luck, and if you have any success I'd love to hear about it,

/Jeremy

On Monday, December 26, 2016 at 6:30:59 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I have a Bialetti Kitty 4 cup I am not smart enough to make good coffee 
> with. It seems very persnickety — which isn’t a good thing because I am 
> persnickety. Sardonic grin. 
>
> Tips? 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick 
>
> www.OurHolyConception.org 
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar suggestions for the Hunq

[Jeremy Tavan]

Love it! 

Currently working on a commuter bike with an upwards-sloping Salsa quill 
stem and albastache. If that ends up being too long reach, a dirt drop's 
the next thing to try.

/Jeremy

On Saturday, December 24, 2016 at 8:00:12 AM UTC-8, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> Albastache! With a Dirt Drop!
>
> https://www.instagram.com/p/BHspz1hgL-u/
>

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[RBW] Re: Another Rosco v2 Build

[Jeremy Tavan]

I love everything about this. The two bags go together beautifully, and the 
whole package works together as a great utility cycle. Fantastic!

/Jeremy

On Wednesday, December 21, 2016 at 12:04:49 PM UTC-8, Jon BALER wrote:
>
> Added a few new photos of my build with new bags - R.E. Load basket bag  & 
> Custom Rogue Panda frame bag 
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/jon_baler/albums/72157674307963623
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Front rack for Appaloosa fork mounts

[Jeremy Tavan]

It requires customization, but my shop did a lovely job adding struts to a 
Soma stainless porteur rack to brace on fork-top braze-ons.  It makes for a 
really rigid four-point attachment, which is nice when loaded up!

/Jeremy

On Sunday, December 18, 2016 at 4:02:41 PM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I'm thinking about putting a front rack on Joe Blue and would like to use 
> those nifty braze-ons on top of the fork. What racks fit on them?
>
> Joe Bernard
> Vallejo, CA. 
>

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[RBW] Re: New Cheviot

[Jeremy Tavan]

Love the flipped Sparrow bars - has a good old-school feel to it. Have you 
tried the Ergon grips designed for the swept-back bars (GC1 I think)? Not 
sure there's all that different from the standard ones, but I really like 
them on a MAP/Ahearne bar mounted relatively far and low as a compromise vs 
a drop bar configuration. 

On Wednesday, December 14, 2016 at 10:03:51 AM UTC-8, Les Lammers wrote:
>
>
> 
> I was looking for an all around bike about 9 years ago. Not much out 
> there. Stumbled on Riv. Took a chance and got a Bleriot. The 650B's were 
> calling me. I still love it. This spring I pre-ordered a gray Chevoit and 
> it's now built. I initially had Choco norm bars but they were a bit too 
> upright so I decided to try 52 CM Soma Sparrow bars. I flipped them 
> and added Ergon cork grips. The saddle is presently a bit below the bars. 
> Stem is a Nitto Technomic 60mm. Using Paul Thumbies but may go to the IRD 
> stem shifters to clear the bars a bit. Tires are 650B Panaracer Messenger 
> 42mm. They measure 41mm on Velocity Synergy rims. Not at all bad for a $30 
> tire. Saddle is an older B17 that I sent to SA to have a cut out done. 
> Installed a Nitto R14 on the rear. A Nitto M18, back ordered, and small 
> Wald basket will go on the front. 
>
>
> 
> I like the Sparrow bars and the Ergon grips are very comfortable. The 
> cockpit is upright but not too much so. This is my first non drop bar bike. 
> Why did I wait so long? I need to do a long shakedown ride and will post 
> afterwards.
>

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[RBW] Re: Where are the Brompton Owners or A Case of the Novembers

[Jeremy Tavan]

As a frequent Brompton-plus-Caltrain commuter who has owned both a 3-speed 
and a 6-speed Brompton (the 3-speed was stolen, the 6-speed was all the 
shop had in stock to replace it), I can say I would be fully comfortable 
using just the 3-speed for my sort of use. I spend almost all my time in 
the lower geared cog, only moving to the smaller cog for brief high-speed 
rides down an underpass ramp. YMMV, of course.

/Jeremy

On Wednesday, December 14, 2016 at 9:18:30 PM UTC-8, Surlyprof wrote:
>
> Now that a Brompton thread has been started, I have a question for Bay 
> Area Brompton riders.  Is it worth it to get the -12% gearing on a 6 speed 
> Brompton in the bay area or is the standard gearing just fine?  Turns out 
> my wife now wants to get me a Brompton for Christmas since I have to stay a 
> little later on campus next semester.  Brompton's are bus-able and I 
> hesitate to let my Sam ride on the front of a bus.  That may be a silly 
> reason but what do I care... N+1!
>
> Thoughts?
> John
>
>
> On Monday, November 28, 2016 at 1:01:56 PM UTC-8, Minh wrote:
>>
>> So i've really struggled with a case of the Novembers (longingly eyeing 
>> all the bikes for sale, Bill's Appaloosa, that Ebisu, that Crust, that 
>> Rambler) and successfully dodged most of them until a Brompton popped 
>> up.  I was reminded of my visit a few weeks ago to a Brompton dealer (just 
>> as i was walking by one...) and i was hooked.  I think Brompton should do a 
>> kick back program for owners because we attracted a crowd when i went to 
>> pick it up and the seller was showing me the fold-unfold-fold.  I have to 
>> admit that there is something fun about riding these bikes, the steering is 
>> a handful until you get used to it, and some of the components are 
>> laughingly cheap/crude but it's a fun ride.  
>>
>> I think there are some cross-owners of RBW and Brompton, does anyone have 
>> a link to an owners group?  I've seen the bromptontalk group on yahoo (too 
>> much noise), but looking for a group more similar to RBW.  What i'm hoping 
>> to find is feedback/experiences on changes, with so much folding i'm 
>> worried about making changes that will then affect the folding mechanism. 
>>  I'm thinking of swapping in new grips, levers, maybe a saddle but wanted 
>> feedback before i started ordering things.
>>
>> Thanks for any pointers, I need to go and practice my folding technique, 
>> i'm way slower than the videos online!
>>
>

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