Re: [RBW] Re: Using Your Rivendell Vs. Being Precious: A Spectrum

[Scott Calhoun]

Great topic with interesting responses. Like Leah, I'm both guilty and 
innocent. I ride my bikes a lot, but I'm also guilty of planning so I don't 
have to lock up fancy bikes for significant periods of time. My most used 
and useful bike, my MAP randonneur, was also my most expensive. I keep a 
couple of u-locks at bike racks at stores and cafes I frequent. I also have 
been riding a 1994 Bridgestone RB-1 that I love, and maybe it is not on the 
radar for thieves as much, but I'd still hate to lose it.

Which brings me to my biggest bike anxiety: my favorite riding bikes are 
simply not replaceable (or at least not easily so). Mitch Pryor of MAP has 
left the bike biz, and finding another nice '94 62cm RB-1 could take 
forever. The bike thieves in our town are pretty indiscriminate about what 
they take. Scanning the Tucson Stolen Bikes instagram profile, I see every 
kind of bike: newer and vintage, MTB, and road, utility to fixie. 

On Tuesday, November 8, 2022 at 1:57:17 PM UTC-7 penne...@gmail.com wrote:

> Theft scares me , too. I have some pretty hardcore locks and don't lock up 
> for hours at a time if I can avoid it.
>
> It may be possible to breathe a little easier in places where the bike 
> culture is, let's say, highly modern. This might encompass a lot of places. 
> Even if I struggle to totally believe it, a bike shop owner around here in 
> southern Alberta told me that a decently locked bike without suspension 
> basically isn't going to be stolen. I'm sure that silver or polished (ie 
> "old looking") components make a bike even less interesting to would-be 
> thieves. A basket might make a thief roll their eyes! Swept back bars? 
> Puke! Suspension mountain bikes dominate the scene here, and I'm sure that 
> the rapid takeover of all sorts of e-bikes further concentrates the efforts 
> of real thieves on a particular part of the spectrum. 
>
> Something Riv-ish and well-locked so as not to entice an opportunist is 
> probably pretty safe in my neck of the woods, at least, even if I still 
> worry. 
>
> Mack 
>
> On Tuesday, November 8, 2022 at 1:34:52 PM UTC-7 Mackenzy Albright wrote:
>
>> after riding a lot of bikes in a lot of terrible conditions i've come to 
>> find for the most part a semi well maintained bike is pretty robust and not 
>> so worried anymore. 
>>
>> the two things that DO worry me is 
>>
>> 1. bike theft. Having a bike you can lock up. Ideally the workplace has 
>> secure bike parking and if I park for less than a few hours neighborhood 
>> pending. I no longer bar hop and in general pretty careful about where to 
>> park for short periods. Knock on wood aside from a few stolen bits and bobs 
>> off my bikes never had any real major theft. 
>>
>> 2. SALT. Previously living in Alberta, they put some sort of demonic 
>> liquid ice melt on the paths. I used the 45north Kavas on my winter bike 
>> and they were great in all conditions and especially on ice and hardpack 
>> snow. The ice melt would melt through snow and ice making some sort of 
>> corrosive slurry that felt like riding on wet sand at a beach. The ice 
>> slurry ate through an imperfect powder-coat on my SSFGmtb "winter bike". By 
>> spring it was bubbling and flaking terribly and lead to a lot of rust that 
>> I have yet to deal with since moving other than a good scrub and light 
>> oiling. It's fine as "beausage" on my Marino winter bike - but would have 
>> been pretty choked if it were a Riv or Crust 4x the cost and meant as a 
>> "lifer".  If they just left the packed snow it'd been fine and i'd ride any 
>> bike in the snow with studded tires. 
>>
>> I feel quite guilty if i'm not using most of my bikes regularly. 
>>
>> On Tuesday, November 8, 2022 at 11:23:49 AM UTC-8 penne...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks, Jim. I’m running studs in the front (Schwalbe Marathon 29x2.0), 
>>> but not in the back. On days like today, studs on both ends would be 
>>> better, but where I live we are prone to warm (and fierce) chinook winds, 
>>> which means that the roads will be clearish for a big chunk of the winter, 
>>> so I compromise. There is a 90+% chance that I’ll lose rear traction and 
>>> fall a time or two this winter, but I’ll be wearing lots of clothes so it 
>>> won’t hurt too bad! If I had the clearance you’ve got on a Clem, I might 
>>> even run something bigger and spikier (?) like the Schwalbe Ice Spiker, 
>>> which I think comes in 29x2.25. Along with Schwalbe, 45NRTH seems to be the 
>>> other good option for studs. They have a tire called the Kahva that is also 
>>> 29x2.25. 
>>>
>>> Mack
>>> (apologies to the thread if this message appears twice, I'm having email 
>>> problems)
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, November 8, 2022 at 11:55:07 AM UTC-7 Jim Whorton wrote:
>>>
 Mack, I like that setup on your Joe a lot.  Cool!  Are those 2-inchers 
 studded?  

 I use studded tires in winter (Continental Spike Claw 26 x 2.1") that I 
 got cheap through Craigslist.  I have thought of 

Re: [RBW] Club Rides On A Racing Platypus

[Scott Calhoun]

Leah, 

Your successful foray club riding on a Platypus speaks to both your fitness 
and open mindedness . From your fun-to-read account, it looks like you are 
having a good two-way exchange of bicycle information with the club members.

Your experience got me thinking about all the times I've showed up for 
cycling events as the outsider because of my out-of-the-mainstream clothing 
or bicycle choices, and the times when I've been more conventional. I came 
into cycling 30ish years ago (gulp) in road racing (Bridgestone RB-1) and 
I've never lost my love for drop bar steel bikes. I did my first organized 
200k on a 1969 Lejuene French bike, and the organizers all took pictures of 
me with my bike at the end because they thought it was so novel. A few 
months ago, I did the El Tour Tucson century on my full-fendered MAP 
randonneur bike with my giant handlebar bag. I fell in with a fast group 
all on carbon and we finished in 5:30, but they all kept saying, "just 
think how fast you'd be on such-and-such a carbon bike" I was thinking to 
myself, "just think how comfortable you'd be on 650b x 42mm tires with only 
40psi!" Also, I stopped at an Italian deli and filled my front bag with 
Mozzarella on the way home. 

I'm all for everybody doing whatever is fun and comfortable in regards to 
their bike and equipment. If you find yourself wanting to do more and 
faster club rides, I expect you might want to at least experiment with a 
bike more like what the other club riders are on just to see what you might 
or might not be missing. I am part of a coffee drinking and fast cycling 
club and the group averages 17-20mph speeds on rides in the 40-60 mile 
range. For those rides, it is a lot easier (or possible) for me to stay 
with the group when I use the following:

1. Tight-fitting aero jersey (no flapping!). A sleek jersey can have more 
effect than wheels, tires, etc. It is also the cheapest way to gain speed 
through buying stuff.
2. Drop bars. For me, they are so much more comfortable when I'm riding at 
faster speeds. I can stretch out my back, get a little lower, change hand 
positions, and put more power through the pedals.
3. Closely spaced gears with handlebar controlled shifters. It's easier to 
stay together if you all have similar gaps in your gears and can make those 
changes quickly and frequently as needed.

I hope I didn't veer into mansplaining or take on a fatherly tone in my 
comments above. If you ever did decide you wanted to acquire something in 
the Riv family like a Roadeo, Ram, or maybe an RB-1, there would be many 
here who would happily enable such a quest. I'd be one of them. 

I am looking forward to hearing more about your next club-riding adventure. 



On Thursday, April 7, 2022 at 9:51:19 AM UTC-7 upyou...@yahoo.com wrote:

> Leah,
> Keep having fun and making friends.  It's all part of the bike journey.  
> I once showed up to an elite duathlon (bike+run) with my hybrid flat bar 
> bike with a back rack.  I looked around at all the lycra kits and major 
> bikes and didn't really know any better at the time.  I thought that 
> because I could run and bike that I could do this.  Well, I was having a 
> good ole time out on the course doing my own thing...I was solo.  I 
> realized something was up when a car came up slowly behind me and asked if 
> I was doing OK.  Apparently, all the bikers were off the course and 
> finishing up the run.  I was still on the bike course, not in a pace line 
> and not riding fast.  By the time I completed the bike portion, the 
> participants were putting bikes on cars and eating pizzas.  I had to 
> disembark my bike and run the 2 mile course in front of everyone.  In the 
> end, I won 3rd place in my age group. (there were only 3 in my group) and 
> just did my own thing.  
> I've always had a back rack and trunk on my bike.  I rode in clubs but was 
> never taken seriously even when I was a strong rider.  The pack and race 
> mentality was very strong.  I couldn't keep up with the A or B riders but I 
> could do the long distances that they did easily.  It seems like there 
> wasn't a way to be in a club and do long distance but in a more casual pace 
> so in the end, Lone Wolf Cycling was more my game.  
> My suggestion is to just keep riding and trying new things and see how it 
> goes.  You might find just the right match for your riding, learn along the 
> way and educate others on upping their color dazzle game.  
> Kate-still riding with a back rack and trunk- in New Jersey
>
> On Thursday, April 7, 2022 at 12:26:28 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
>> Bill: APPROVE 
>>
>> On Apr 7, 2022, at 12:03 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>>
>> Speaking of riots of color:  My "Michigan Man" bike had boring black 
>> knobbies on it, that were skinnier than ideal.  I swapped the tires out 
>> last night for chubbier slicks in RED!!  I think Leah may approve of this 
>> color riot:
>>
>>
>> 

Re: [RBW] Re: Heterodoxy — reconciling RBW with the mainstream

[Scott Calhoun]

I've been *that* guy more times than I'd care to count. If you are keeping 
up with the group, someone always manages to say something like, "just 
think how fast you'd be on  kind of bike." Still, sometimes is nice 
just to fit in and not have to explain yourself or answer the inevitable 
"hey is that a really old bike?" question. 
On Saturday, February 12, 2022 at 1:33:04 PM UTC-7 Fullylugged wrote:

> I rode my '95 Rivendell Road today on the club group ride.  38mm 
> Pari-motos, leather saddle, high handlebars. Platform pedals.  I kept up 
> with the group easily, enjoyed a great morning on a superior and 
> comfortable road bike. Nothing hurt after the ride. Some of my carbon 
> company is starting to think that maybe unpadded pants and no numbness on 
> hands might have value. Some others will stay true to current bike chic. I 
> personally like the Rivs between '94 - '10 better than the rivs since 2010. 
> For some, the clem or platy is just perfect and that's great. The orig RBW 
> ideas about slack ST angle, low BB, and longer stays work really well for 
> me. The recent slack HT and uber long (need 2 chains long) stays are 
> overkill for me. I have 2 Rivs and I'll love them and ride them till I 
> can't ride anymore, but Riv never was orthodox and never meant to be. It's 
> always been the best that GP felt he could do at the time, given the 
> materials and options (like brake reach) available. YMMV.
>
> Tailwinds
> Bruce in AL
>
> On Saturday, February 12, 2022 at 2:16:00 PM UTC-6 Scott Calhoun wrote:
>
>> It is easy to do--there are so many different bike tribes and ways to 
>> signify which tribe you belong to. Maybe being a little transgressive and 
>> trying new things with different tribes is healthy for cycling people. 
>> Whatever kind of bike and cycling connects you to other people, nature, and 
>> places you like to go, do that. Dirt road shortcut, multi-use path, fast 
>> group ride, grocery run, kid train, charity century: yes.  
>>
>> On Friday, February 11, 2022 at 10:21:32 AM UTC-7 Jay Lonner wrote:
>>
>>> So upon further reflection I’m starting to realize that the act of 
>>> riding my bike can get so bound up with political and aesthetic 
>>> considerations that I forget to have fun. Most of my biking is utilitarian 
>>> commuting and grocery hauling, and sometimes that can get to be a drag. 
>>> There are days when the weather is crummy or I have a late meeting or I 
>>> slept a little too long and riding my bike seems more like a chore than 
>>> anything else. What was eye-opening for me riding this technological wonder 
>>> of a machine was that it was just pure fun, in a way that I haven’t 
>>> experienced on a bike for a long time.
>>>
>>> More than anything else I guess this is a wake-up call to myself that I 
>>> can get a little too hung up on having a “pure” experience at the expense 
>>> of my own enjoyment. I really have no interest in super technical off-road 
>>> riding with huge drops or otherwise extreme terrain. It was just really 
>>> nice to go on a ride in beautiful surroundings and let the bike soak up the 
>>> bumps. I wish there was an easy way to demo other bikes that come at this 
>>> problem in different ways (such as a Gus or the Jones and Black Mountain 
>>> options mentioned upthread), but for now I’m going to remain open to the 
>>> possibilities and try to remind myself that while I have a lot of respect 
>>> for Riv/Grant there’s really no right or wrong way to have fun on a bike.
>>>
>>> Jay Lonner
>>> Bellingham, WA
>>>
>>> Sent from my Atari 400
>>>
>>> On Feb 11, 2022, at 9:04 AM, Brady Smith  wrote:
>>>
>>> I regularly ride my Riv-styled BMC monster cross with a Rapha brevet 
>>> jersey and Rivendell MUSA pants. I like the look, the jersey is great, and 
>>> sometimes the pants are a welcome break from the usual lycra, especially in 
>>> moderate temperatures. 
>>>
>>>
>>> As for bikes, I too have been tempted by full-suspension mountain bikes, 
>>> but in the end I decided that the BMC La Cabra was probably my best bet, 
>>> and it's been great for the relatively mild singletrack available in the 
>>> greater SLC area. Not having suspension forces me to ride more slowly and 
>>> pick good lines, and the TRP Hylex disk brakes I have on it make speedy 
>>> descents viable in a way they wouldn't be on a Gus. I have thought about 
>>> adding a hardtail to the stable, but as I explained the idea to my wife, 
>>> she said, "So 

Re: [RBW] Re: Heterodoxy — reconciling RBW with the mainstream

[Scott Calhoun]

It is easy to do--there are so many different bike tribes and ways to 
signify which tribe you belong to. Maybe being a little transgressive and 
trying new things with different tribes is healthy for cycling people. 
Whatever kind of bike and cycling connects you to other people, nature, and 
places you like to go, do that. Dirt road shortcut, multi-use path, fast 
group ride, grocery run, kid train, charity century: yes.  

On Friday, February 11, 2022 at 10:21:32 AM UTC-7 Jay Lonner wrote:

> So upon further reflection I’m starting to realize that the act of riding 
> my bike can get so bound up with political and aesthetic considerations 
> that I forget to have fun. Most of my biking is utilitarian commuting and 
> grocery hauling, and sometimes that can get to be a drag. There are days 
> when the weather is crummy or I have a late meeting or I slept a little too 
> long and riding my bike seems more like a chore than anything else. What 
> was eye-opening for me riding this technological wonder of a machine was 
> that it was just pure fun, in a way that I haven’t experienced on a bike 
> for a long time.
>
> More than anything else I guess this is a wake-up call to myself that I 
> can get a little too hung up on having a “pure” experience at the expense 
> of my own enjoyment. I really have no interest in super technical off-road 
> riding with huge drops or otherwise extreme terrain. It was just really 
> nice to go on a ride in beautiful surroundings and let the bike soak up the 
> bumps. I wish there was an easy way to demo other bikes that come at this 
> problem in different ways (such as a Gus or the Jones and Black Mountain 
> options mentioned upthread), but for now I’m going to remain open to the 
> possibilities and try to remind myself that while I have a lot of respect 
> for Riv/Grant there’s really no right or wrong way to have fun on a bike.
>
> Jay Lonner
> Bellingham, WA
>
> Sent from my Atari 400
>
> On Feb 11, 2022, at 9:04 AM, Brady Smith  wrote:
>
> I regularly ride my Riv-styled BMC monster cross with a Rapha brevet 
> jersey and Rivendell MUSA pants. I like the look, the jersey is great, and 
> sometimes the pants are a welcome break from the usual lycra, especially in 
> moderate temperatures. 
>
>
> As for bikes, I too have been tempted by full-suspension mountain bikes, 
> but in the end I decided that the BMC La Cabra was probably my best bet, 
> and it's been great for the relatively mild singletrack available in the 
> greater SLC area. Not having suspension forces me to ride more slowly and 
> pick good lines, and the TRP Hylex disk brakes I have on it make speedy 
> descents viable in a way they wouldn't be on a Gus. I have thought about 
> adding a hardtail to the stable, but as I explained the idea to my wife, 
> she said, "So you're proposing to spend $4k on a bike to avoid the 3 
> minutes you spend walking out of a 3 hour mountain bike ride?" It sounds 
> kind of silly when you put it that way. 
>
> On Friday, February 11, 2022 at 8:28:01 AM UTC-7 George Schick wrote:
>
>> This is an interesting subject and there have been some good replies. 
>>  Golf was mentioned.  I recall when clubs with fiberglass then later carbon 
>> fiber shafts were introduced.  They made a big difference in the game for 
>> someone with a slow, mild swing.  Later, oversized drivers came along. 
>>  They gave the skilled golfer a distinct advantage.  Sobeit 
>>
>> In the mid-70's "standard" wooden tennis rackets were supplanted with 
>> oversized net surfaces and aluminum shanks.  That advancement clearly 
>> improved the game for many tennis buffs.
>>
>> But over the years there have been attempts to push things a bit too far. 
>>  I remember when someone designed a tennis racket with soft, spaghetti-like 
>> material in the netting.   This allowed the player to put "english" on the 
>> ball that made return volleys nearly impossible and it was hastily outlawed 
>> by various amateur and professional tennis associations.
>>
>> I used to do .22 rimfire silhouette shooting back in the 70's.  Then some 
>> yahoo came along and invented a rifle with an electronic trigger wired to a 
>> laser sight that wouldn't allow the shooter to pull the trigger unless the 
>> rifle was absolutely dead-on the target.  That device, too, was outlawed. 
>>  It took the fun out of the sport and took competition down the drain.
>>
>> I could go on, but the point is...where does one cross the line between 
>> something that requires work and skill to develop an expertise versus just 
>> throwing money at an innovation that runs ragged over everyone else?  So... 
>> back to the subject of bikes, especially off-road MTB.  I've had people 
>> riding $7K CF fat tired 1x11 bikes blow past me on the trails like I was 
>> standing still.  They wanted to pay that much for the extra edge and it's 
>> their prerogative to do so.  But I'm afraid that I have to draw the line 
>> with these e-bikes.  Posters on some 

Re: [RBW] Re: Heterodoxy — reconciling RBW with the mainstream

[Scott Calhoun]

This is a good discussion. Riding mostly steel bikes with steel forks, I 
often count myself among the anoraks here, but like the OP, I've tried some 
new bike technology that enhances my cycling experiences. Once you know, 
you know. Tubeless tires, brifters, and even carbon rims can be great for 
certain riders, rides, and conditions. 

Even bikes that many here would consider completely impractical, can be 
really fun to ride and offer an interesting counter-argument to the 
prevailing Rivendell wisdom. During the pandemic I started doing a lot of 
long solo rides. I did them on a variety of bikes and in a variety of 
clothing, including a bike with some aero equipment like low spoke count 
deep carbon wheels combined with a tight fitting jersey. I went on longer 
rides in less time and returned home feeling fresher. It was also fun. It 
got me thinking more about the latest generation of carbon fiber racing 
bicycles designed for aerodynamics and comfort. Someday I'd like to try a 
bike like the Look 795 Blade or Time Scylon (made with 3km! of carbon 
threads) just because I think they are beautifully engineered and kind of 
bonkers. Interestingly, even in 2022, both of those are available in rim 
brake models with mechanical shifting so in an odd way they also appeal to 
my inner retro-grouch.



On Saturday, February 12, 2022 at 11:36:33 AM UTC-7 philipr...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> On Saturday, February 12, 2022 at 12:12:40 PM UTC-6 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> It is; it's the British term for a windbreaker, especially the old 
>> fashioned type with only a half-zipper. The name is borrowed from that of 
>> an Inuit garment of similar design, I believe.
>>
>> I think the extension of the meaning came about because fanatical steam 
>> train or steam waggon viewers (steam trucks were used in Britain until the 
>> 1960s or even 1970s and there are entertaining Youtube videos of steam 
>> waggon fairs and steam traction engines and lorries holding up traffic on 
>> narrow English roads) often wore these anoraks in England's wet, cold 
>> climate. 
>>
>>
> Partially correct, it's from the groups of men (trainspotters) who would 
> collect locomotive numbers and stand clustered at the ends of station 
> platforms in the wind & rain.  The anorak is also referred to as a kagoule.
>

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[RBW] FS: Nitto, VO Quill stems

[Scott Calhoun]

With apologies for the cross-posting on Bob.

Nitto Technomic Deluxe NTC-DX 100mm, 26.0 clamp. New, without packaging. 
These have the nicer Nitto Pearl hardware and finish. New, they are $69.99. 
Asking $50 shipped. https://www.benscycle.com/nitto-ntc-...p?skuId=673314 


Nitto Technomic 100mm, 26.0 clamp. Well-used with line showing insertion 
height and zig-zag marks below that. But, totally functional and not bad 
looking. $23 shipped. https://www.benscycle.com/nitto-tech...p?skuId=673354 


Velo Orange Grand Cru Quill Stem, 110mm 26.0 clamp. Lightly used excellent 
condition. Includes cool brass bell threaded into hole on right hand side. 
$70 shipped. https://velo-orange.com/collections/...cru-quill-stem 


Prices net to me. 

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Re: [RBW] FS: 63cm Roadeo (at Westminster, MD Bike Swap 2/13)

[Scott Calhoun]

I PMed you Austin, but fellow Rivers it might be interested to know a 
little more about the history of the bike. Do you know what year it was 
built and are you the original owner and do you know who built it 
(Waterford, Nobilette, others)?

Best of luck with the sale. From the responses here, it looks like you'll 
have no trouble moving it along if it doesn't sell at the swap. My fingers 
are crossed. 

On Friday, February 11, 2022 at 6:51:34 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Thanks, good to see the build, and again, very nice.
>
> On Thu, Feb 10, 2022 at 6:53 PM Austin B.  wrote:
> >
> > @Patrick,
> >
> > It's the curse of the gangly-large frames--there just aren't that many 
> riders out there that can fit a 63cm frame. Basic supply & demand, right? 
> It does have one key blemish--the pointy lug that points up the seatpost 
> was bent in transport (boxed so they removed the seatpost). it couldn't be 
> bent back and accept a seatpost, so cut, filed, and touch-up paint. Never 
> bothered me.
> >
> > Ok, the buildI had some different parts on it for the last couple 
> years, but am making it more Rivish for sale using many of the parts that 
> came on it when I acquired it.
> >
> > Velocity A23 with 28mm Gatorskins
> > VO Grand Cru Brakes (SO much better than Tektros)
> > 105 FD, RD and Crankset
> > 9-Speed cassette (11-30)
> > Shimano barends
> > Nitto Dynamic Seatpost with a Brooks B17
> > 44cm Noodle Handlebars, IRD levers, 9cm Nitto Tallux stem
> > VO Platform Pedals
> >
> > I think that's it.
> >
> > And yes, they are expensive. I'll pour myself a nice, expensive glass of 
> scotch the day they get off my auto insurance policy.
> >
> > Austin
> >
> > On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 8:28:08 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
> >>
> >> Sheesh: Entire bike $1K below frame list; what's the catch? (Not a 
> complaint, I'm saying it's so wonderful it's hard to believe!) If it were a 
> 58 it would be hard for me to restrain myself.
> >>
> >> Please describe the build, tires included.
> >>
> >> And congrats on the HS grad. Be warned: They are expensive in high 
> school, they are much more expensive in college.
> >>
> >> Patrick "only 1 child, but she's expensive!" Moore
> >>
> >> On Thu, Feb 10, 2022 at 6:18 PM Austin B.  wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Everyone,
> >>>
> >>> Doing some downsizing as my youngest is graduating HS in a couple 
> months. I'll be taking my 63cm Roadeo to the Stop, Swap, and Save event in 
> Westminster, MD this Sunday 2/13. $1800 asking price. If it doesn't sell 
> there I will be posting it here afterwards. Pic below.
> >>>
> >>> Also might take my 63cm Bridgestone RB-1 (1989) to the swap meet if i 
> can convince myself to let go of it.
> >>>
> >>> Thanks,
> >>> Austin B.
> >>> Sykesville, MD
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> --
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> .
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >>
> >> ---
> >> Patrick Moore
> >> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
> >>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
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> .
>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>

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Re: [RBW] FS: 63cm Roadeo (at Westminster, MD Bike Swap 2/13)

[Scott Calhoun]

PM sent too just in case. I posted a WTB for a 63cm Roadeo on this list 
ages ago.

On Friday, February 11, 2022 at 12:20:44 AM UTC-7 exliontamer wrote:

> Sent you a message. I've been looking for a 63cm! 
>
> On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 11:35:12 PM UTC-6 Collin A wrote:
>
>> Dang, if only it was 10cm smaller...
>>
>> Collin, forever short, in Sacramento
>>
>> On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:53:29 PM UTC-8 Austin B. wrote:
>>
>>> @Patrick,
>>>
>>> It's the curse of the gangly-large frames--there just aren't that many 
>>> riders out there that can fit a 63cm frame. Basic supply & demand, right? 
>>> It does have one key blemish--the pointy lug that points up the seatpost 
>>> was bent in transport (boxed so they removed the seatpost). it couldn't be 
>>> bent back and accept a seatpost, so cut, filed, and touch-up paint. Never 
>>> bothered me.
>>>
>>> Ok, the buildI had some different parts on it for the last couple 
>>> years, but am making it more Rivish for sale using many of the parts that 
>>> came on it when I acquired it.
>>>
>>>
>>>- Velocity A23 with 28mm Gatorskins
>>>- VO Grand Cru Brakes (SO much better than Tektros)
>>>- 105 FD, RD and Crankset
>>>- 9-Speed cassette (11-30)
>>>- Shimano barends
>>>- Nitto Dynamic Seatpost with a Brooks B17
>>>- 44cm Noodle Handlebars, IRD levers, 9cm Nitto Tallux stem
>>>- VO Platform Pedals
>>>
>>> I think that's it. 
>>>
>>> And yes, they are expensive. I'll pour myself a nice, expensive glass of 
>>> scotch the day they get off my auto insurance policy.
>>>
>>> Austin
>>>
>>> On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 8:28:08 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
 Sheesh: Entire bike $1K below frame list; what's the catch? (Not a 
 complaint, I'm saying it's so wonderful it's hard to believe!) If it were 
 a 
 58 it would be hard for me to restrain myself.

 Please describe the build, tires included.

 And congrats on the HS grad. Be warned: They are expensive in high 
 school, they are much more expensive in college.

 Patrick "only 1 child, but she's expensive!" Moore

 On Thu, Feb 10, 2022 at 6:18 PM Austin B.  wrote:

> Everyone,
>
> Doing some downsizing as my youngest is graduating HS in a couple 
> months. I'll be taking my 63cm Roadeo to the Stop, Swap, and Save 
>  event in Westminster, MD this 
> Sunday 2/13. $1800 asking price. If it doesn't sell there I will be 
> posting 
> it here afterwards. Pic below.
>
> Also might take my 63cm Bridgestone RB-1 (1989) to the swap meet if i 
> can convince myself to let go of it.
>
> Thanks,
> Austin B. 
> Sykesville, MD
>
> [image: IMG_9862.JPG]
>
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> 
> .
>


 -- 

 ---
 Patrick Moore
 Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum



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Re: [RBW] New Roadinis will have clearance for 42 mm tires

[Scott Calhoun]

Count me among those with no enthusiasm for 55-73mm long reach caliper 
brakes. IME, much worse performance than medium 47-57mm reach brakes. In 
the medium reach format, one has several high quality brake options: Velo 
Orange Grand Cru, TRP 957, and Paul Racer M. In long reach calipers, 
especially now that the Paul Racer regulars have been discontinued, there 
are no high performance options to my knowledge.

I would have prefered sticking with the medium reach, or going to canti 
posts if wider than 38mm tires is a must.





On Monday, January 17, 2022 at 8:38:54 AM UTC-7 Pancake wrote:

> I was excited for a Charles H Gallop too, but no v-brakes means I’m out. 
> Wish I could snag that prototype, because that is just an ideal setup. 
>
> But the Sam Hillborne also started with long reach brakes (like mine) and 
> eventually made its way to canti/V-brake posts so hopefully CHG goes the 
> same way and sooner than later. 
>
> Abe
>
> On Sunday, 16 January 2022 at 09:38:06 UTC-8 Eric Daume wrote:
>
>> Yeah, I was really looking forward to the CHG, but the long reach brakes 
>> kill it for me. 
>>
>> Eric
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, January 16, 2022, Johnny Alien  wrote:
>>
>>> I am a little shocked that they are apparently bringing that change over 
>>> to the Charlie Gallop too. Instead of the V-brake/cantilever setup that the 
>>> previous prototype had. Since they are designing their own V brakes that 
>>> look to be quite nice it seems that they would push the bikes toward that. 
>>> The only reason I can think that they would make that change is because 
>>> sidepulls are a little more common on road style bikes. But making a 
>>> decision based only on aesthetics seems counter to how Rivendell normally 
>>> does things.
>>>
>>> On Sunday, January 16, 2022 at 11:48:38 AM UTC-5 Linda G wrote:
>>>
 I'm so glad I bought my Roadini frame before this change! The 559 
 brakes do not work for me: poor power in dry conditions and unusable in 
 wet. I find that 33mm tires have plenty of cush and 42's would probably 
 create toe overlap on a 50 size frame. I'm grateful to have found a 
 Rivendell frame that works for me. 
 [image: DSC00040.JPG]

 On Friday, January 14, 2022 at 9:46:12 PM UTC-8 Eamon Nordquist wrote:

> I saw today the announcement that the new Roadinis are niw designed 
> for R559 brakes and will easily clear 42 mm tires. Good news, as far as 
> I’m 
> concerned! The only thing I am slightly sad about is that they aren’t 
> coming in grilver, which is THE color for the Roadini, in my opinion. 
> That 
> may be influenced by my love for the silver gray imron paint on early 
> 80’s 
> Treks. Regardless, if I have a  job by then, I may have to get one.
>
> Eamon
> Seattle 
>
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>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 64cm Rivendell Quickbeam F/F/HS

[Scott Calhoun]

The Quickbeam is sold. Thanks for all the interest.

On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 1:57:51 PM UTC-7 Scott Calhoun wrote:

> Hi All, 
>
> I'm offering up my 64cm Quickbeam F/F/HS I purchased it from another 
> RBW/BOB member awhile back. The rear end is spaced to 130mm, which gives 
> you access to loads of different wheelset choices. 
>
> The finish is not perfect, with a few scratches but no dents/dings. The 
> headset is a bit notchy, but works fine. The saddle height in the photos is 
> ~81cm. 
>
> Asking $775 net to me plus actual shipping from Tucson, AZ for the F/F/HS
>
> I have most of the other components (minus the wheelset) in the photo if 
> you wanted to see about including those for extra $.[image: 
> 83B805B9-5FF7-4F5E-84D4-A7F80E35507E.jpg] 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Brake lever inward rotation on Noodle Bars

[Scott Calhoun]

Having the brake levers turned inward (and using narrower drop bars) is the 
current aero fad/trend in the pro peloton. I'm sure Andrew isn't looking 
for a position this radical, but you can see some of the positions here. 
https://www.italy24news.com/sports/news/20163.html 

Stages of some big races were won with using inward brake levers this last 
year. I will add that extremely pointed inward levers look awful to my 
eyes. 

On Thursday, December 16, 2021 at 3:19:18 PM UTC-7 Mackenzy Albright wrote:

> I've found I like mine straight to perhaps slightly pointed outward on 
> wider bars as it helps keep my wrists straight, contours my hand and my 
> elbows slightly tucked in line with my torso. (non aero levers) Inward 
> seems to flair my elbows out more and I feel less stable (but tends to 
> feels okay on narrower bars). 
>
> On Sunday, December 12, 2021 at 3:27:02 PM UTC-7 beachb...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I ride mine swiveled in almost in line with the flair of the drops. I 
>> find it much more comfortable. 
>>
>> On Saturday, December 11, 2021 at 8:13:01 PM UTC-5 Berkeleyan wrote:
>>
>>> I'm still dialing in my brake lever (Tiagra) position on my wide (48cm) 
>>> Noodles, before I tape the bars and commit to the Tektro Interrupters. 
>>> After zooming down Old Tunnel Road in Oakland today, I wonder how many 
>>> people ride with levers dead straight ahead, and how many swivel the hoods 
>>> inward some amount? My hands "want" the levers turned in, and I don't see 
>>> any drawback to that...
>>>
>>> - Andrew, Berkeley
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Opinions re Roadeo colors

[Scott Calhoun]

I bought it from TPC recently (in 2021--maybe 6 months ago), hoping it was 
indeed a Roadeo, but after I got it, using the serial number I confirmed 
that Mark N. built it and confirmed that it wasn't a Roadeo, but somebody's 
Riv custom. I rode it for maybe three days, but although it fit me and feel 
really stable and was beautifully made, it felt less nimble than my Ram, 
and it just wasn't what I was hoping for. 

To TPCs credit, they took it back and even paid the return shipping as they 
had mis-named it in their description. So it did go back up for sale 
recently I suspect. Anyone on this list pick it up? 

On Thursday, December 9, 2021 at 12:27:46 PM UTC-7 Kevin D norcal - santa 
rosa wrote:

> Hey Scott, thanks for the clarification.  Yeah, I saw it on TPC listed as 
> a Rodeo (I thought it was listed recently but maybe not).  I figured it was 
> custom and thought maybe Waterford.  I saw the fork braze-on but didn't 
> catch the larger tire capacity.  Perhaps more like a Ramb then or even 
> stouter yet.  Great paint either way.  
> curious: are you saying you bought it from TPC recently and returned it to 
> them?  Or you bought it new from Riv and returned to Riv a while back . . . 
> and that it wound up at TPC later on.  
>
> On Thursday, December 9, 2021 at 11:07:34 AM UTC-8 Scott Calhoun wrote:
>
>> I briefly owned this silver one which was offered by The Pros Closet. For 
>> the record, it is not a Roadeo and was mis-labeled as such by TPC. It is a 
>> Rivendell custom built by Mark Nobilette. I loved the color, but it was 
>> build quite stout and more loaded touring oriented IMO. It was not the 
>> light lively ride I was hoping for from a Roadeo so I returned it. It also 
>> used long, rather than medium reach brakes so I would fit relatively huge 
>> tires. 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, December 9, 2021 at 11:51:18 AM UTC-7 Kevin D norcal - santa 
>> rosa wrote:
>>
>>> Lots of great pics and colors.  I didn't see a Silver one yet so will 
>>> add this one.  * It's not mine but I wish it was (and if the owner ever 
>>> wants to pass it on lemme know).  I recall a JP Weigle build with similar 
>>> paint.  Fine silver - elegance.
>>>
>>> [image: silver Roadeo.jpg]
>>>
>>> On Monday, December 6, 2021 at 9:25:18 AM UTC-8 Jim S. wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi, I recently obtained a used Roadeo. It needs a new paint job. Does 
>>>> anyone have opinions on the ideal colors for a Roadeo? Photos are 
>>>> encouraged, of course.
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Opinions re Roadeo colors

[Scott Calhoun]

I briefly owned this silver one which was offered by The Pros Closet. For 
the record, it is not a Roadeo and was mis-labeled as such by TPC. It is a 
Rivendell custom built by Mark Nobilette. I loved the color, but it was 
build quite stout and more loaded touring oriented IMO. It was not the 
light lively ride I was hoping for from a Roadeo so I returned it. It also 
used long, rather than medium reach brakes so I would fit relatively huge 
tires. 



On Thursday, December 9, 2021 at 11:51:18 AM UTC-7 Kevin D norcal - santa 
rosa wrote:

> Lots of great pics and colors.  I didn't see a Silver one yet so will add 
> this one.  * It's not mine but I wish it was (and if the owner ever wants 
> to pass it on lemme know).  I recall a JP Weigle build with similar paint.  
> Fine silver - elegance.
>
> [image: silver Roadeo.jpg]
>
> On Monday, December 6, 2021 at 9:25:18 AM UTC-8 Jim S. wrote:
>
>> Hi, I recently obtained a used Roadeo. It needs a new paint job. Does 
>> anyone have opinions on the ideal colors for a Roadeo? Photos are 
>> encouraged, of course.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 61cm Roadeo Complete

[Scott Calhoun]

John, I've long been on the lookout for a 63cm, and seeing your 61cm has me 
revisiting the Roadeo geometry tables so see if it will work. I'm assuming 
yours is a Waterford made version with the somewhat older original 
geometry? Can you tell us the saddle height in your photos and the headtube 
length?

Scott


On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 3:33:05 PM UTC-7 maxcr wrote:

> Gorgeous!
>
> Max, who's downsizing yet is still tempted by this beauty
>
> On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 4:38:57 PM UTC-5 John G. wrote:
>
>> Time to move this one on! Selling my beloved 61cm Roadeo so that I can 
>> fund the purchase of a different bike. It's great, but it has almost total 
>> overlap with my Weigle, so it's the one that's gotta go. Looking for $2300 
>> plus shipping. Specs below.
>>
>> Bars: Nitto Noodles, 44cm
>> Stem: Technomic, 100mm
>> Brifters: Ultegra 10 Speed
>> Headset: FSA
>> Crankset: Ultegra 10 speed double. 50/34
>> FD: Dura Ace
>> RD: Ultegra
>> Cassette: Ultegra 10 Speed. Less than 1K miles. 12-28
>> Pedals: Shimano PD-A600. These are Ultegra-level SPD cleats. I love 
>> them--Jan Heine uses them, fwiw.
>> Brakes: TRP Long Reach. 
>> Seatpost: Nitto 65
>> Wheels: Pacenti Forza rims and hubs. Less than 1K miles. These wheels are 
>> SO much better than I thought they'd be--strong and light, and they puff up 
>> tires nicely
>> Tires: Conti GP5000 28mm. Less than 1K miles
>> Fenders: Honjo hammered. Great coverage for 28mm tires.
>> Saddle: provide your own.
>>
>> Note: I was in the process of replacing chain, brakepads, bartape, 
>> cables, and housing. I will ship you the replacement parts if you buy it.
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Show Me Your Roadeo!

[Scott Calhoun]

A 63cm Roadeo remains the one Rivendell that I've always wanted but never 
owned. My current daily driver is a 64cm Quickbeam which based on the 
geometry would seem to give me a taste of Roadeo handling in a slightly 
more stout package. I'm really enjoying seeing Austin and Matt's 63cm 
builds, as well as all the other cool variations. 

On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 4:00:03 PM UTC-7 Gabriel Bruguier wrote:

> @Drew.  My PBH is right under 85, which puts me squarely in the 57cm frame 
> range according to this chart 
> .  
> But I decided to compare the overall frame measurements to those of the 
> best-fitting bikes that I've previously owned, and base my decision on that 
> instead.  And that put me on a 59cm frame.  So to answer your questions, 
> and compliment what Bill said in response, I don't think PBH should be the 
> sole determinant for sizing a Roadeo.  
>
> On Saturday, October 2, 2021 at 12:07:49 PM UTC-5 kwi...@weimar.edu wrote:
>
>> @Tim... I also have a 93 pbh with a 84cm saddle height.  I decided that 
>> the 63cm Roadeo was just not large enough.  I do not like elongated stems 
>> (vertical or horizontal).  I got the 2018 Roadini instead.  It fits 
>> perfectly.  My only gripe with the Roadini is that it is too stiff for my 
>> kind of riding (club rides that can be kind of fast).  I prefer more 
>> lateral compliance in my bicycles, and the Roadini is just stiffer all 
>> round than I like.  I will be selling it.  It rides wonderfully, but 
>> compliance is not its cup of tea.  My SOMA San Marcos which is really 
>> identical to the Roadini has more compliance-- perfect for long distance 
>> stuff and gravel.  I will keep the San Marcos.  It seems that Grant 
>> perfected frame design in the Roadini and the San Marcos: long head tubes 
>> and sloping top tubes for us tall riders really improves comfort 
>> immensely.  My old Riv 'Redwood' was a great bike, but the stem was always 
>> too low, and I really do not like the 'stuck up' stem look.   
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 20, 2021 at 5:13 PM Tim Bantham  wrote:
>>
>>> @Doug H I have the same question about the fork. How did you decide 
>>> between the two? My saddle height is 84.5 cm with a PBH of 93. My bars are 
>>> 1.5 cm's below the saddle. On my Sam the 6 degree top tube slope creates a 
>>> bit more stack height. In comparison the Roadeo has a 2 degree slope. This 
>>> is why I am wondering what the HT size is on the size 63 that Matt has. I 
>>> am trying to decide if I could get my bars high enough with a threadless 
>>> form without having to add to many spacers. 
>>>
>>> On Monday, September 20, 2021 at 7:59:07 PM UTC-4 Tim Bantham wrote:
>>>
 John, You've got two great bikes with the QB and Roadeo. Both are high 
 on my list to own. I mostly agree with your comments about taking the 
 versatility of a Rivendell to far. I have an Appaloosa and a Sam. I had a 
 Clem H and quickly sold it. The Clem was one I regretted and wished I 
 hadn't gone down that path. With the Clem I tried to make it something it 
 was not (at least to my standards) and that was an analog mountain bike. 
 At 
 the time I was caught up in the Rivendell Hillie Bike marketing only to be 
 disappointed later. I found the ride to be heavy, dull and just 
 uninspiring. I also did not get along with the very long chainstays. So in 
 that sense my experience mirrors yours. 

 Like the Atlantis, the Appaloosa is great at what it is meant for. 
 Touring, bike packing, grocery getting both on and off road. I currently 
 have it set up with 2.25 Schwalbe T-Burts tubeless. A very Un-Riv Jones 
 Loop bars along with a White Industries Double. The bike is super stable 
 loaded or unloaded on any surface. I love it for what it is and mostly 
 ride 
 it for those purposes. 

 I have found the Sam to be the most versatile of them all. I've had 
 that bike built up so many different ways, Before I had the Appaloosa I 
 would ride it loaded with camping gear, It had Billie Bars, Albatross 
 bars, 
 Albastache bars and Noodle bars. I also had several different Nitto racks 
 on it front and rear. All versions were great but I have finally settled 
 on 
 a drop bar set up. I ditched the Noodles for a 31.8 clamp so I could use 
 Salsa Cowchippers. I have a Nitto Quill adaptor so I can use a normal 
 clamp 
 on stem. I mostly did that to make it easier to try different stem lengths 
 without spending a fortune. I settled on a 110mm stem. This bike outshines 
 my other Riv's in overall versatility. 

 I think the Sam makes a great road bike. Similar to the very popular 
 "all road" versions from the bigger brands. The Sam is better because it's 
 lugged steel and has far more tire clearance. That said, I wish it was 
 lighter and had more snap. I think the Roadeo 

[RBW] Re: Any former paper boys (or girls) on this list?

[Scott Calhoun]

It is interesting how varied the methods of carrying the papers are. I used 
canvas bags looped around the front of the wide steel cruiser bars not too 
dissimilar in shape from some of the recent Riv handlebar offerings. In the 
back, Wald baskets. On days with thick papers, I'd load both baskets, and 
the front bags, and then stack papers between the two baskets in back and 
throw those first. 

I never used the canvas bags that you wore over your head--mostly because 
the older kid I inherited the route from taught me his way and I just 
stayed with it. If I was doing a route now on a bike, I'd take the 
Quickbeam with front basket--I think the papers are so slim these days that 
I could fit twice or three times as many papers in the same space I used in 
the 70s-80s. 

On Wednesday, September 8, 2021 at 8:33:39 AM UTC-7 Lefebeaver wrote:

> I delivered papers 6 days a week for the Portsmouth (NH) Herald. I went by 
> bicycle unless the snow was very, very deep. I think it's influenced my 
> lifelong attitude, which jives with the Riv philosophy, that a bicycle 
> should be outfitted to be as robust and useful as possible, and carry 
> anything. And I could go right out this afternoon on my Atlantis and 
> deliver papers - it's perfectly set up for it! 
>
> On Monday, September 6, 2021 at 12:11:33 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Dave Moulton has an interesting little post on his blog today about
>> the disappearance of the paper boy. I don't recall ever having seen
>> one except (always!) in movies, but then we lived when I was a boy in
>> the US in what was still a semi rural area, and the rest of the time
>> overseas. All the newspaper deliverers I've seen have been middle aged
>> people in cars.
>>
>> http://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com/blog/2021/9/6/the-newspaper-boy.html
>>
>> I do recall working followup for the 1990 census on a bike! (I did
>> similar work for the 1980 census in my car in a very rural part of NW
>> Georgia; now that was interesting -- like Deliverance except that the
>> people were very nice, even though I was -- to them -- a Yankee
>> Oriental who was asking way too many personal questions.)
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Any former paper boys (or girls) on this list?

[Scott Calhoun]

Thank you for starting this thread Patrick. I've enjoyed all the great 
stories. It reminded me that earlier this year I wrote a little essay about 
my years as a paperboy for the Arizona Republic. It's a bit too long for a 
comment here, but I published it on my blog here: 
http://www.thebeautifulbicycle.com/2021/09/courier-for-the-republic/ 


On Tuesday, September 7, 2021 at 4:47:36 PM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> This is a great thread! Thanks to everyone for sharing their stories, I've 
> enjoyed reading. 
>
> I myself was born after everyone here retired from their routes. I've 
> never seen a kid deliver a paper in my life, always adults in cars.
>
> On Tuesday, September 7, 2021 at 5:17:26 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> I worked in the mailroom at a newspaper stuffing ad sheets. One day the 
>> publisher gave us a tour of the building and asked what a paper was in 
>> business to do. Everyone else offered stuff about journalism and I said "To 
>> sell advertising."
>>
>> "Joe gets it." 
>>
>> Joe Bernard
>>
>> On Tuesday, September 7, 2021 at 2:01:33 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> I'm surprised at the number of ex-paperboys and enjoyed the stories. I 
>>> do remember the Sunday Washington Post from the 1980s; about 8 lb of 
>>> needlessly pulped wood, about 1/2 of it advertising supplements. The 
>>> present Albuquerque Journal Sunday edition is about as thick as a low-news 
>>> weekday edition from 30 years ago.
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> ---
>>> Patrick Moore
>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Paul Racer Medium Front

[Scott Calhoun]

I'm looking for the other half of a Paul Racer M (I need the rear, 
recessed, in brushed Silver) so if someone has a set they want to split 
between us, that would work too. Mine need to match and I need a set, but I 
don't care what color.  So if someone has a black or polished set that want 
to sell, I could sell my anodized silver front to Ben.
On Monday, August 9, 2021 at 2:39:47 PM UTC-7 Benjamin Kelley wrote:

> I'm looking for a Paul Racer Medium, Front, Recessed mount.
> Prefer Black, but can probably deal with any of the others other than 
> polished.
> Let me know if you have one in the parts bin. I'll need a lever also if 
> you have one of those to bundle in.
>
> Thanks,
> --ben in KC
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bikes on eBay, CraigsLIst, and Other Sites

[Scott Calhoun]

Well, I got the Rivendell Custom, rode it for a few days, and ended up 
returning it to the Pros Closet. There was nothing at all wrong with it--it 
is Mark Nobilette built in 2011--but it was more or a touring set up and 
not the Roadeo type ride (lighter tubing) I was after. The bike is in 
excellent condition and looked very lightly used. Although the Pros Closet 
called it a "Roadeo"--Nobilette confirmed that it was not and my 
impressions riding it (super smooth, super stable), are that it was built 
to load lightly. 

So, heads up if any of you are looking for a big custom Riv., it should be 
back up and listed at TPC again soo.  This one is very nice. The JB paint 
looks better in person than on the web.

On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 7:41:37 AM UTC-7 John M wrote:

> Nice looking (and big!) Riv custom at the Pro's Closet:
>>
>
> https://www.theproscloset.com/products/rivendell-roadeo-xl
>
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bikes on eBay, CraigsLIst, and Other Sites

[Scott Calhoun]

Thanks for pointing out the extras David. I spied the third bottle 
braze-ons, and fork eyelets, but I didn't see the hidden rack braze-ons 
until you called the out. 



On Thursday, July 22, 2021 at 12:12:06 AM UTC-7 Hetchins52 wrote:

> It has some additions that I would look at as bonuses beyond the usual 
> Roadeo frame:
> Third set of water bottle braze-ons
> Mid fork leg eyelets for a front rack
> Two sets of rear dropout eyelets
> Rack braze-ons just above the rear brake bridge "hidden" on the inside of 
> the seat stays
> Nice!
>
> David Lipsky
> Berkeley, CA
> On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 4:33:53 PM UTC-7 Scott Calhoun wrote:
>
>> I had some credit and took a flyer on this one. I've wanted a Roadeo for 
>> many years. This one is an odd case, as TCP is calling it both a "Custom" 
>> and a "Roadeo." Vince at Riv HQ suggested that it could be from the time 
>> period when they weren't offering Roadeos per se? I called and got the 
>> serial number from TPC and it begins with MN, so Mark Nobilette built. From 
>> the geometry details they do list, it lines up with 63cm Rivendell Roadeo 
>> geometry from ~2017 or so. I'm going to see if Nobilette has any additional 
>> info about it. In any case, the TT length and Standover look very similar 
>> if not identical to my current 64cm Quickbeam, and former 64cm Ram, so I'm 
>> not worried about the fit. 
>>
>> On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 7:41:37 AM UTC-7 John M wrote:
>>
>>> Nice looking (and big!) Riv custom at the Pro's Closet:
>>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.theproscloset.com/products/rivendell-roadeo-xl
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Bikes on eBay, CraigsLIst, and Other Sites

[Scott Calhoun]

It's a very Rivish build--so I'll probably ride it mostly as-is initially 
just to get a feel for it. I had an almost identical drivetrain on my Ram.  
Pros 
Closet says their boxing method should only require 15 minutes to assemble 
the bike. We'll see.

If I'm pleased with the ride and fit, I'll for sure put a lighter tubeless 
wheelset and tires on it. I have a silver Ritchey wheelset that would work 
great. I'm also more of a narrow Q-factor double chainring fan--so if I rob 
a bank or something, maybe I'll put a Rene Herse 46/30 crankset on it. 
Beyond that, I don't know. If I had a spare set of Dura Ace DT shifters, I 
might swap those out for the barends. 



On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 9:16:07 PM UTC-7 mma...@gmail.com wrote:

> Congrats! Any plans on changing the build or just ride as is? I do love a 
> turn-key used bike.
>
> On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 16:33 Scott Calhoun  wrote:
>
>> I had some credit and took a flyer on this one. I've wanted a Roadeo for 
>> many years. This one is an odd case, as TCP is calling it both a "Custom" 
>> and a "Roadeo." Vince at Riv HQ suggested that it could be from the time 
>> period when they weren't offering Roadeos per se? I called and got the 
>> serial number from TPC and it begins with MN, so Mark Nobilette built. From 
>> the geometry details they do list, it lines up with 63cm Rivendell Roadeo 
>> geometry from ~2017 or so. I'm going to see if Nobilette has any additional 
>> info about it. In any case, the TT length and Standover look very similar 
>> if not identical to my current 64cm Quickbeam, and former 64cm Ram, so I'm 
>> not worried about the fit. 
>>
>> On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 7:41:37 AM UTC-7 John M wrote:
>>
>>> Nice looking (and big!) Riv custom at the Pro's Closet:
>>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.theproscloset.com/products/rivendell-roadeo-xl
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>> -- 
>>
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>> .
>>
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[RBW] Re: FS: Bikes on eBay, CraigsLIst, and Other Sites

[Scott Calhoun]

After inspection, the first thing I'll do is take off that sticker;) 

On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 9:43:16 AM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Wow, seeing that PRO'S CLOSET CERTIFIED PRE-OWNED sticker is making my 
> brain swell. 
> On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 10:41:37 AM UTC-4 John M wrote:
>
>> Nice looking (and big!) Riv custom at the Pro's Closet:
>>>
>>
>> https://www.theproscloset.com/products/rivendell-roadeo-xl
>>
>>  
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bikes on eBay, CraigsLIst, and Other Sites

[Scott Calhoun]

I had some credit and took a flyer on this one. I've wanted a Roadeo for 
many years. This one is an odd case, as TCP is calling it both a "Custom" 
and a "Roadeo." Vince at Riv HQ suggested that it could be from the time 
period when they weren't offering Roadeos per se? I called and got the 
serial number from TPC and it begins with MN, so Mark Nobilette built. From 
the geometry details they do list, it lines up with 63cm Rivendell Roadeo 
geometry from ~2017 or so. I'm going to see if Nobilette has any additional 
info about it. In any case, the TT length and Standover look very similar 
if not identical to my current 64cm Quickbeam, and former 64cm Ram, so I'm 
not worried about the fit. 

On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 7:41:37 AM UTC-7 John M wrote:

> Nice looking (and big!) Riv custom at the Pro's Closet:
>>
>
> https://www.theproscloset.com/products/rivendell-roadeo-xl
>
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Paul center pulls

[Scott Calhoun]

Hi Gabe, I'm interested if they are Racer Ms.

Scott
Tucson, AZ

On Monday, April 12, 2021 at 12:19:04 PM UTC-7 gabe.de...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi Everybody!
>
> I've got an unused pair of paul center pull brakes in black finish if 
> anyone is looking.
> I wanted to use them on a different project but recently purchased a Clem 
> L and need to go the v brake route. I'll attach pictures later today. Send 
> me offers.
>
> -Gabe
> Pittsburgh
>

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Re: [RBW] FS: NIB Rivendell Sam Hillborne 54cm Frameset, Extras

[Scott Calhoun]

The Sam Hillborne is sold. Thanks for all the interest. 

On Wednesday, January 27, 2021 at 5:58:08 PM UTC-7 Robert Blunt wrote:

> I just pm'd you.
> -Robert Blunt
> Pennington, NJ
> On Wed, Jan 27, 2021, 7:33 PM Scott Calhoun  wrote:
>
>> [image: IMG_0149.jpg]I'm selling this for a friend who bought the frame 
>> a new from Riv a couple of months ago, but has too many bike projects in 
>> the works and is letting it go. It is brand new, never built, and will be 
>> shipped in original packaging. He is a pro shop mechanic, but the headset 
>> and bb were installed by Rivendell and are included. 
>>
>> Price includes brand new 100mm Nitto Talux stem and SimWorks "SO" Bar 
>> (500mm center to center, 490mm at the hoods). 
>>
>> $1200 net plus shipping for frame/fork/headset/bb, stem, and bars.
>> or
>> $1100 net plus shipping frame/fork/headset/bb 
>>
>> Buyer responsible for actual shipping cost from Tucson, AZ. Local pickup 
>> is also an option. 
>>
>> Scott Calhoun
>> Tucson, AZ USA
>>
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>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: To the person to whom I gave the old single pivot Dura Ace brakes: I found the QR barrel adjusters

[Scott Calhoun]

Thanks. I'm just a frustrated writer in quarantine trying to do my part. 
I'm here on the RBW list giving it away for free while putting off writing 
for money.



On Monday, January 18, 2021 at 12:08:46 PM UTC-7 Lucky wrote:

> This is probably my favorite thing I have ever read on this list, so thank 
> you.
>
>
>
> On Jan 18, 2021, at 11:06, Scott Calhoun  wrote:
>
> Patrick, 
>
> Your subject line reminds me of the William Carlos Williams poem: This is 
> just to say
>
> Here is the ibob version:
> This is just to say
>
> That I have discovered
> the barrel adjusters 
> that were missing
> on the dura ace
> brakeset I sold you
>
> Which you probably 
> have been searching for
> in vain
> on eBay
>
> Forgive me
> they were buried deep
> in my parts bin
> so silver
> and so small.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, January 14, 2021 at 3:17:07 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> I forget your name. I sent you a pair of early, single pivot DA calipers 
>> last summer or fall, without the barrel adjusters. I found them. If you 
>> want them, please pipe up offlist.
>>
>> Note: This type is the nicest barrel adjusters-cum-QRs that I've ever 
>> seen.
>>
>> Sorry, other listers.
>>
>> Patrick Moore
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>> -- 
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>
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[RBW] Re: To the person to whom I gave the old single pivot Dura Ace brakes: I found the QR barrel adjusters

[Scott Calhoun]

Patrick, 
Your subject line reminds me of the William Carlos Williams poem: This is 
just to say

Here is the ibob version:
This is just to say

That I have discovered
the barrel adjusters 
that were missing
on the dura ace
brakeset I sold you

Which you probably 
have been searching for
in vain
on eBay

Forgive me
they were buried deep
in my parts bin
so silver
and so small.





On Thursday, January 14, 2021 at 3:17:07 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> I forget your name. I sent you a pair of early, single pivot DA calipers 
> last summer or fall, without the barrel adjusters. I found them. If you 
> want them, please pipe up offlist.
>
> Note: This type is the nicest barrel adjusters-cum-QRs that I've ever seen.
>
> Sorry, other listers.
>
> Patrick Moore
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: In Praise of the Roadini

[Scott Calhoun]

IME, my most confidence inspiring bikes on fast downhills have all had 
longish chainstays (43-45cm) same as the Roadinis. I've not ridden a 
Roadini, but my Ram had that great confidence inspiring handling around 
curves. My Quickbeam is similar. 

Roadini Curious in Tucson

On Sunday, April 12, 2020 at 5:22:36 PM UTC-7 lambbo wrote:

> My experience of the Roadini is that it feels like you're on a rail, like 
> a train car, it just brings you around all the curves and down the hills on 
> a tight line, no wobbling around, with momentum.  It's incredible. 
>
>
> On Friday, April 10, 2020 at 9:56:29 PM UTC-4, Dave Grossman wrote:
>>
>> I bought a Roadini frameset a over a year ago and finally got around to 
>> building it up during the crisis.  As a father of small children, my time 
>> to ride outside of family rides and commuting is limited, so I was hesitant 
>> to put money into a road bike.  I couldn't be more glad that I did.
>>
>> The bike is the most unaggressive-aggressive bike I have owned.  It has a 
>> terrific riding position (I have a 90 pbh and bought the 61 to be on a 
>> "bigger" bike and it was a good choice), and I feel like I am in the bike 
>> as opposed to feeling like a rock in a slingshot.  It does everything a 
>> road bike should do, and I don't get off feeling beaten by the road.  
>> Anyhow, thanks to Grant for making a bike unlike any other bike brand 
>> today.  I'm proud to be a two Riv garage (I have a Hunq also).
>>
>> Build:
>> Nitto Ui-12 31.8 Stem
>> Salsa Woodchipper Bars 46cm
>> Dura Ace 7400 Cranks (49/39)
>> Dura Ace 7700 Bar Ends
>> Sram 11-34 9 speed Cassette
>> Deore 9 RD
>> Sora FD
>> Mavic CXP 33s Laced To CK Classics
>> Schwalbe One 28s
>> Berthoud Saddle
>>
>>
>> I'll get a pic up soon.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: ROADUNO - a new singlespeed!

[Scott Calhoun]

My Quickbeam is spaced to 130mm and I use the Surly cassette spacer and cog 
kit to get a perfect chainline. I like the 130 spacing as I can use any of 
my road wheels. Also, I run 43mm Gravel Kings on my QB no problem. I 
consider the geometry on my QB near perfect as an all around road bike, and 
it is nearly identical to the current (2019 forward) Roadeo geo (72.5 HTA, 
72 STA in size 63cm Roadeo, same as on the 64cm 2006 QB). It'll be 
interesting to see how the RoadUno is designed. 

On Monday, December 14, 2020 at 10:29:47 AM UTC-7 Pete B wrote:

> This bike sounds a lot like the Rosco Roads, which used SimpleOne forks, 
> but tire clearance with fenders is apparently better . My Rosco Road has 
> 130mm rear spacing and I do 700x35 to be on the safe side, but could 
> probably do 700x38. The RU is supposed to do 700x45 with fenders. I 
> wouldn't have guessed that'd be easy to do with 120mm frame spacing, but 
> the Quickbeam probably gets pretty close to that, right? I assume the frame 
> is spaced at 120, and not just the hub.
>
> 120mm frame spacing is desirable because it allows a larger chainring 
> (>40t) to be installed with good chainline on a 120mm hub which aren't 
> really specialty items. I've done several conversions of 120mm wheels on 
> 126mm and 130mm frames using axle spacers to make up the difference. A 120 
> fixed or free rear hub dictates chainring choice. You basically have to run 
> what will not hit the chainstay while giving good chainline. Often that 
> means something smaller than 42t. A 42x15 is a nice combination for just 
> riding around, but if you want a bigger gear, you're out of luck. Better to 
> go with a bigger front ring like a 44 or a 46 and then you can swap out 
> freewheels and cogs to get the combo you want. If you don't care about 
> riding fixed, 130mm hub spacing is easy, because you can just use a regular 
> road cassette hub and adjust the chainline on the rear wheel using spacer 
> kits like the kind Surly makes. Then you can put a bigger chainring on the 
> outside of the spider or use a longer BB to get the ring clear of the 
> chainstay.
>
> On Monday, December 14, 2020 at 10:42:21 AM UTC-5 Christopher Cote wrote:
>
>> I expect these are sized like the more recent Rivendells such as the Sam 
>> Hillborne, etc. The 54cm would be the right size for me, and I would have 
>> ridden a 56 or 58cm Quickbeam, for example.
>>
>> Chris
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, December 13, 2020 at 8:58:54 PM UTC-5 Berkeleyan wrote:
>>
>>> Okay, after reading the obscure details on the R1, I stand corrected. 
>>> Despite the shocking shortcoming of its very limited PBH range, it has one 
>>> great advantage over the QB of yore, and THAT is support for wider tires. I 
>>> tried running Bruce Gordon Rock 'n Roads (38mm) on my Orange QB, and they 
>>> just only barely fit. Currently I roll on 38mm Ocean Air Soma C-Lines, 
>>> which fit just fine without fenders. But if the R1 will go well into the 
>>> mid-40's, yes, that is an improvement.
>>>
>>> - Andrew, Berkeley
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 62 CM Hunqapillar and other goodies.

[Scott Calhoun]

Really great frame and GLWS. This line in your post made me laugh, "I 
dripped some shellac on one of the downtubes" So many downtubes to drip on! 
haha. 

Scott

On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 3:15:59 PM UTC-7 Zack wrote:

> [image: IMG_1898.jpg]
> [image: IMG_1899.jpg]
> On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 3:15:21 PM UTC-7 Zack wrote:
>
>> [image: IMG_1896.jpg]
>> [image: IMG_1897.jpg]
>> On Monday, August 31, 2020 at 3:14:41 PM UTC-7 Zack wrote:
>>
>>> I am FINALLY getting around to selling my 62 cm hunq frame and fork. Let 
>>> me know if you know anyone who might be interested. Enough wear and tear 
>>> and beausage so that you know someone actually rode it, but pretty amazing 
>>> shape. I dripped some shellac on one of the downtubes. *$1500.*
>>>
>>> Also have a Nitto big front rack, same thing, a few dings here and there 
>>> but p great shape. *$150*
>>>
>>> Nitto S83 Seat Post, not sure the exact size, but it fit the Hunq,* $85*
>>>
>>> Paul Touring Canti Brake, Silver* $75*
>>>
>>> Paul Neo Retro Brake, Silver* $75*
>>>
>>> These prices don't include shipping, will figure out whatever shipping 
>>> costs are and pass them along to you. If you want the Hunq and don't live 
>>> in Portland, I will try and find a place to box and ship. More pics, but 
>>> couldn't figure out how to get them to post. [image: IMG_1895.jpg]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: 63cm Roadeo

[Scott Calhoun]

Hi Tom,

Thanks for the info--I sent you a message with my email. 

Scott

On Wednesday, August 26, 2020 at 9:40:57 AM UTC-7, tdusky wrote:
>
> Hi Scott
> Not sure if you have found what you are looking for yet.
> I have a 63cm Rivendell custom Long Low built in 2001 by Joe Stark, I 
> would be willing to sell.
> I am not sure how to compare the models, but mine is the deep red they 
> used for the customs at the time.
> The max tire size you can run is a true 32mm tire.
> I am in the Detroit area, let me know if you are interested.
> Thanks
> Tom
>
> On Thursday, August 6, 2020 at 12:56:29 AM UTC-4 MCT wrote:
>
>> Scott, 
>> I sent you a PM. Let me know if you didn’t get it. 
>>
>> Matt
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Pre-owned Roadeos - expected cost - complete

[Scott Calhoun]

That WTB was mine. No luck yet.

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[RBW] WTB: 63cm Roadeo

[Scott Calhoun]

Thanks for the offer Bo—but although the Redwoods are really nice—I’m wanting 
the lighter tubes on the Roadeo 

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[RBW] WTB: 63cm Roadeo

[Scott Calhoun]

I posted this WTB awhile back but thought I’d try again. I’d prefer just a 
frameset, but might consider a complete. Can have plenty of beauage or be 
closer to new. 

Anyone will a 63cm Roadeo thinking of selling?

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[RBW] Blog post about my Blériot

[Scott Calhoun]

That’s a really great review Aaron—I enjoyed it.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bikes on eBay, CraigsLIst, and Other Sites

[Scott Calhoun]

I also ride a 64cm QB. My saddle height is 81.5cm and I’m 6’2.5” tall. It is on 
the big side when compared to some of my racy frames but fits great and I love 
the ride.

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[RBW] Re: Golden Pliers Roadini Raffle

[Scott Calhoun]

Looks like they were north of 10k before the weekend started. 

On Friday, June 5, 2020 at 11:29:23 AM UTC-7, Matt Beecher wrote:
>
> Thanks for the info. I bought 2 tickets. 
>
> Best regards,
> Matt Beecher
>

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[RBW] Re: Cameras for Biking

[Scott Calhoun]

Forgot one important thing when choosing a cycling camera. A few years ago 
I did a long tour carrying a fixed lens Nikon with the little leaf-like 
plastic lens cover that opens and shuts when you turn the camera on and 
off. I kept the camera in a small relevate bag on my bars. I found that the 
lens cover would stick and not open and close fully when the camera got 
jostled around, got debris in there, etc. Same for another Sony I owned. 
For that reason, I prefer a camera without any lens cover that you can 
screw an ND filter onto and not worry about a lens cover or cap. If you are 
less rough on your cameras, this might not be a problem, but for me, the 
odds of some peanut shell or oatmeal duff getting lodged in that lens cover 
mechanicism has proven high. 

Scott

On Monday, June 8, 2020 at 8:38:55 AM UTC-7, Scott Calhoun wrote:
>
> I really like compact mirrorless cameras, and currently use a Panasonic 
> Lumix GM5. At the time I bought it a few years ago, it was the smallest 
> interchangeable lens mirrorless camera on the market (bar of soap size 
> body). It has a solid feeling mostly metal body and the quality of 
> construction seems great IMO. Panasonic makes a Leica that looks almost 
> identical, so I consider this a poor man's Leica. I suppose the Leica has 
> different software or some other tweaks, but I don't really know. There 
> might be something smaller now. It uses the micro 4/3 system lenses. I have 
> a couple of primes that are nice for cycling. One complaint is that the 
> stock lens it comes with, a 12-32mm, has to be rotated about an 1/8 of a 
> turn to be in shooting mode--if you shoot while riding, this is a problem. 
> For that reason, I purchased a couple of primes: a Lumix 20mm 1.7 and an 
> Olympus Zuiko 45mm 1.8. The 20mm lens is good for all around landscape and 
> street shots and cycling stuff--Zuiko 45mm is excellent for portraits. 
>
> I've also owned the first generation Fuji x100. I loved the quality of the 
> images and the film simulation modes, but the large size of the body and 
> really bad UI (not the manual controls, but the digital settings). 
>
> If I was buying again today, I might consider the Lumix LX100 2 with the 
> non-interchangable zoom. I find I don't change my lense as much as I 
> thought I would. Paul Brodek is really up on the Lumix line and cameras in 
> general so I hope he weighs in. 
>
> Cheers,
> Scott
>
> On Sunday, June 7, 2020 at 12:49:31 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> I've no longer a mobile phone and thus no longer have the incorporated 
>> camera and it's happy ability to take a burst of photos after a set delay 
>> of 20 seconds or so. Kai kindly recommended Sony, and in my research I 
>> ended up finding the simplicity of mirrorless, which presumably means 
>> heartier (I'll test that!), then, in looking for older models that do what 
>> I want so I don't pay for all the latest bells and whistles, I found 
>> Olympus' Pen E-PL8, which is long in the tooth and thus happily under $300 
>> with lens for a step uyp from a point and shoot or adventure camera. I have 
>> it coming, along with a better tripod and a leather case. I plan to carry 
>> it in my XS Saddlesack handlebar bag.
>>
>> Curious what folks going digital, who are into photography are 
>> doing/using. I love the simplicity of the mobile phone, but miss the 
>> qualities and settings of a higher end camera. It seems there are the point 
>> and shoots (not many as mobile phones do this), adventure cameras, which 
>> are a step up but still feature shy without spending a fortune, and then 
>> the higher end cameras (recommendations for ones that are weather proof and 
>> heartier?).
>>
>> What do you like, not like about what you are using? How do you haul it, 
>> use it, etc?
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>> www.DeaconPatrick.org
>> www.CatholicHalos.org
>> www.ShepherdsandHalos.org
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Cameras for Biking

[Scott Calhoun]

I really like compact mirrorless cameras, and currently use a Panasonic 
Lumix GM5. At the time I bought it a few years ago, it was the smallest 
interchangeable lens mirrorless camera on the market (bar of soap size 
body). It has a solid feeling mostly metal body and the quality of 
construction seems great IMO. Panasonic makes a Leica that looks almost 
identical, so I consider this a poor man's Leica. I suppose the Leica has 
different software or some other tweaks, but I don't really know. There 
might be something smaller now. It uses the micro 4/3 system lenses. I have 
a couple of primes that are nice for cycling. One complaint is that the 
stock lens it comes with, a 12-32mm, has to be rotated about an 1/8 of a 
turn to be in shooting mode--if you shoot while riding, this is a problem. 
For that reason, I purchased a couple of primes: a Lumix 20mm 1.7 and an 
Olympus Zuiko 45mm 1.8. The 20mm lens is good for all around landscape and 
street shots and cycling stuff--Zuiko 45mm is excellent for portraits. 

I've also owned the first generation Fuji x100. I loved the quality of the 
images and the film simulation modes, but the large size of the body and 
really bad UI (not the manual controls, but the digital settings). 

If I was buying again today, I might consider the Lumix LX100 2 with the 
non-interchangable zoom. I find I don't change my lense as much as I 
thought I would. Paul Brodek is really up on the Lumix line and cameras in 
general so I hope he weighs in. 

Cheers,
Scott

On Sunday, June 7, 2020 at 12:49:31 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I've no longer a mobile phone and thus no longer have the incorporated 
> camera and it's happy ability to take a burst of photos after a set delay 
> of 20 seconds or so. Kai kindly recommended Sony, and in my research I 
> ended up finding the simplicity of mirrorless, which presumably means 
> heartier (I'll test that!), then, in looking for older models that do what 
> I want so I don't pay for all the latest bells and whistles, I found 
> Olympus' Pen E-PL8, which is long in the tooth and thus happily under $300 
> with lens for a step uyp from a point and shoot or adventure camera. I have 
> it coming, along with a better tripod and a leather case. I plan to carry 
> it in my XS Saddlesack handlebar bag.
>
> Curious what folks going digital, who are into photography are 
> doing/using. I love the simplicity of the mobile phone, but miss the 
> qualities and settings of a higher end camera. It seems there are the point 
> and shoots (not many as mobile phones do this), adventure cameras, which 
> are a step up but still feature shy without spending a fortune, and then 
> the higher end cameras (recommendations for ones that are weather proof and 
> heartier?).
>
> What do you like, not like about what you are using? How do you haul it, 
> use it, etc?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
> www.DeaconPatrick.org
> www.CatholicHalos.org
> www.ShepherdsandHalos.org
>

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[RBW] Golden Pliers Roadini Raffle

[Scott Calhoun]

The good folks at Golden Pliers in Portland, in collaboration with 
Rivendell, are raffling off a Roadini in support of some solid social 
justice causes. You can see their post on @goldenpliers on Instagram, or at 
https://www.goldenpliers.com/raffle

Scott Calhoun
Tucson, AZ USA



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Re: [RBW] Help Pimp My Quickbeam

[Scott Calhoun]

Good to know, I was wondering if I'll be able to use all four potential 
gears. I ordered a 135bcd 46t ring for my crankset in addition to the 39t 
ring I had. I also have Surly 18 and 21t cassette cogs on the way for the 
rear. Other than a few parts taking god's own time to ship--my build is 
coming along pretty well. 

I'll report back soon.


On Friday, May 22, 2020 at 3:24:36 PM UTC-7, johnboy wrote:
>
> On my Simpleone (sim plee oh née) I’m using a 110bcd double crank with 
> 34/42 rings and a White Ind. Dos freewheel 17/19. Maybe with some fussing 
> with the chain length I could use all 4 combos, but as it is only 3 are 
> usable, small/small puts the quick release partly off the drop out. Gears 
> (using nom. 27” wheel) are 67”, 60” and 48”. Flip side of hub is a 23t 
> freewheel. Most rides I do I don’t shift out of the 67”. Sometimes simple 
> gets complicatedJohn

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[RBW] Re: Help Pimp My Quickbeam

[Scott Calhoun]

Great advice--especially about the gravity defying properties of your bike. 
I'm with you on the RRL levers--by far my favorite and the levers that 
generally prevent me from switching to brifters. 

Question about the racer Wald--does it hold a Sackville sack and what size 
basket did you get? 

On Thursday, May 21, 2020 at 8:49:58 AM UTC-7, Wally Estrella wrote:
>
> Here's my Bregalad in its current form.  With recent swap out of that 
> HEAVY Wald 137 to the half version of the "racing" basket.  So, much faster 
> now ;)  I should paint it orange to make it the fastest basket. Also, a 
> swap late last year from Nitto Noodles to Nitto Dirt Drops (Rm-013).  The 
> bars still need to be wrapped.  Oh, also TRP RRL brake levers -love those!  
> My only "don't skimp on the pimp" suggestion for you.
>
>
> [image: quickbeam.jpg]
>
> If you think you'll need lights then consider a dynohub set-up.  I can't 
> recall the gearing, but know it's 62-63 gear inches.  It works well for me 
> along the New England coast line.  I've climbed up short, punchy 13% grades 
> w/ it, but wouldn't want to do that for a metric or full century w/ 6,000+ 
> elevation.  It's seen many miles total.  Many commuter rides, general 
> errands, a few centuries each year.  
>
>
> Even after purchasing a smooth as hot butter ti bike, this is still to go 
> bike in my bike barn. 
>
>
> Ack! Ack! Hopefully the image comes through correctly.  It's showing as 
> upside down on the upload, yet normal on my viewer.  Anyhow if upside down, 
> well, that's just the kind of bike it really is. Defies gravity and 
> everything else!
>
>
> This hasn't lowered or increased my average MPH.  The just ride pace is 
> when I get there.
>
>
> Enjoy the ride! Stay well!
>
> Wally
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 9:00:05 PM UTC-4, Scott Calhoun wrote:
>>
>> And by pimp I mean, "make into a functional and kinda handsome bicycle." 
>> I always wanted a Quickbeam, and I've just missed a few for sale here. Last 
>> week a friend alerted me that our own Reid Echols was putting out feelers 
>> on Instagram about selling his 64cm QB. Long story short, a frameset is 
>> headed my way.
>>
>> In preparation, I've been futzing in the parts bins, and thinking about 
>> the build. I realized that it's been a good long while since I built up a 
>> single speed--way back in 2011 when I did up a dumpster find Trek 720 frame 
>> for my daughter's college bike. I'm getting the F/F/HS, so I have some 
>> decisions to make. The frame has been re-spaced in the rear to 130mm OLN.
>>
>> A bit of info about my likely use-case scenarios. I live about 16 miles 
>> from the center of town, and almost all my rides are longish. I do run 
>> errands to the Post Office (7 miles round trip) and store (around 12), but 
>> most of my rides are at least 25 miles. I'll also jump on dirt roads when I 
>> can. Tucson is pretty flat in the valley, but we are surrounded on all 
>> sides by mountains. If I want to climb, I can. On my geared bikes, my 
>> average speed is16.5-18.5mph for rides up to 65 miles or so (I mention this 
>> only for purposes of helping me decide gearing--see below).
>>
>> Parts I have:
>>
>>- SKF 110 bottom bracket
>>- Beat up but functional Campy Record Double 172.5 crankset 135bcd 
>>with various rings, mostly of the 53/39 variety
>>- Nitto F32 front Rack just picked up from RBW member Joe Lonner
>>- A set of vintage Mafac Canti brakes f/r
>>- A nice light set silver set of Ritchey Classic tubeless compatible 
>>wheels (1440 grams!)
>>- Nitto Pearl 100mm stem, maybe a 110 too
>>- Nitto Noodle 46cm (or maybe 44cm?) bars
>>- Gravel King SK 38mm and 43mm TLC tires (a pair of each)
>>
>> Reid had it built at least two ways, both really attractive to my eye 
>> (photos to follow): one with drops, one with risers. Seeing that I have 
>> Noodles already, I'll likely just use those initially. I'm generally a drop 
>> bar guy anyhow. So, my main questions are drivetrain/gearing.
>>
>>- Should I keep the rear spacing at 130mm and use a Surly Speed 
>>Spacer kit: https://surlybikes.com/parts/spacer_kit
>>- Or respace to 120mm (I also have a 120 fixed/free hub I could build 
>>up).
>>- Suggestions for gearing set ups. I noticed that I can buy 46t and 
>>48t rings for the Campy 135bcd crankset I have. I typically ride bikes 
>> with 
>>a 46/48/49 tooth big ring and don't get out of the big ring in the 
>> valley. 
>>Chain is somewhere mid-cassette. 

[RBW] Re: Help Pimp My Quickbeam

[Scott Calhoun]

Thanks Drew,

That is helpful to know what the QBs shipped with. I'm wondering now if I 
should abandon the Campy crank idea and try to find a Sugino like the OEM 
spec. Riv doesn't offer a 32-40 sets currently. The closest thing they have 
is the 30-42 clipper, and it is only available in black right now. 
https://www.rivbike.com/collections/cranks-bbs/products/crank-new-albion-sc-guard-42t-x-30t

That said, I don't really see myself getting off the bike to change gears. 
It reminds me of having multiple wheelsets for one bike--changing the 
wheelsets out it sounds good in theory--but rarely seems to happen in 
practice. 



On Thursday, May 21, 2020 at 9:24:49 AM UTC-7, Drew Saunders wrote:
>
>
>>
>>- What would the original Sugino crankset gearing look like? What 
>>would Grant's preferred set up be?
>>- What about rear cog(s)? 16t, 17t? 
>>
>>
>> My orange QB came with 32-40-chainguard on the Sugino cranks, and that's 
> what's still on there. The chain guard is quite nice.
>  
> It came with an 18t freewheel, which I immediately replaced with a Dos-Eno 
> 17-19. I added a 22 on the flop side of the flip-flop wheels that are 
> original. The combinations that actually work with the long slanting 
> dropouts are 40x17 (which I use almost exclusively), 40x19 (easy to change 
> into), 32x19 (I've gone up some real hills with this, years ago) and 32x22. 
> I call it the world's least convenient 4-speed. If you want to keep your 
> Campy and stick to an ~8t difference, I suppose you could use a 39-47 or 
> 39-46.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Help Pimp My Quickbeam

[Scott Calhoun]

Robert--I'll have to look into the Sackville/wald combo. Wally has me 
eyeing the racing basket now for extra speed. haha. Will the sackville stay 
put in the lower basket? 
Re: honjos--I'm down to one bike with fenders now, and in the desert that 
is plenty. I love the way honjos look, but in Tucson, fenders not needed 
about 360 days a year. 



On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 6:25:50 PM UTC-7, Robert Gardner wrote:
>
> I have the same QB and run a Marks rack with Wald large basket up front. 
> Added a sackville and it is what I use to grocery shop. 
>
> I also added a carradice bagman and swift zeitgeist under the saddle and 
> that works for my work/gym stuff. 
>
> I also recommend honjos — they look awful nice on the silver QB...
>
> You have a darn nice bike there!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 20, 2020, at 9:05 PM, Scott Calhoun  > wrote:
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 6:00:05 PM UTC-7, Scott Calhoun wrote:
>>
>> And by pimp I mean, "make into a functional and kinda handsome bicycle." 
>> I always wanted a Quickbeam, and I've just missed a few for sale here. Last 
>> week a friend alerted me that our own Reid Echols was putting out feelers 
>> on Instagram about selling his 64cm QB. Long story short, a frameset is 
>> headed my way.
>>
>> In preparation, I've been futzing in the parts bins, and thinking about 
>> the build. I realized that it's been a good long while since I built up a 
>> single speed--way back in 2011 when I did up a dumpster find Trek 720 frame 
>> for my daughter's college bike. I'm getting the F/F/HS, so I have some 
>> decisions to make. The frame has been re-spaced in the rear to 130mm OLN.
>>
>> A bit of info about my likely use-case scenarios. I live about 16 miles 
>> from the center of town, and almost all my rides are longish. I do run 
>> errands to the Post Office (7 miles round trip) and store (around 12), but 
>> most of my rides are at least 25 miles. I'll also jump on dirt roads when I 
>> can. Tucson is pretty flat in the valley, but we are surrounded on all 
>> sides by mountains. If I want to climb, I can. On my geared bikes, my 
>> average speed is16.5-18.5mph for rides up to 65 miles or so (I mention this 
>> only for purposes of helping me decide gearing--see below).
>>
>> Parts I have:
>>
>>- SKF 110 bottom bracket
>>- Beat up but functional Campy Record Double 172.5 crankset 135bcd 
>>with various rings, mostly of the 53/39 variety
>>- Nitto F32 front Rack just picked up from RBW member Joe Lonner
>>- A set of vintage Mafac Canti brakes f/r
>>- A nice light set silver set of Ritchey Classic tubeless compatible 
>>wheels (1440 grams!)
>>- Nitto Pearl 100mm stem, maybe a 110 too
>>- Nitto Noodle 46cm (or maybe 44cm?) bars
>>- Gravel King SK 38mm and 43mm TLC tires (a pair of each)
>>
>> Reid had it built at least two ways, both really attractive to my eye 
>> (photos to follow): one with drops, one with risers. Seeing that I have 
>> Noodles already, I'll likely just use those initially. I'm generally a drop 
>> bar guy anyhow. So, my main questions are drivetrain/gearing.
>>
>>- Should I keep the rear spacing at 130mm and use a Surly Speed 
>>Spacer kit: https://surlybikes.com/parts/spacer_kit
>>- Or respace to 120mm (I also have a 120 fixed/free hub I could build 
>>up).
>>- Suggestions for gearing set ups. I noticed that I can buy 46t and 
>>48t rings for the Campy 135bcd crankset I have. I typically ride bikes 
>> with 
>>a 46/48/49 tooth big ring and don't get out of the big ring in the 
>> valley. 
>>Chain is somewhere mid-cassette. 
>>- What would the original Sugino crankset gearing look like? What 
>>would Grant's preferred set up be?
>>- What about rear cog(s)? 16t, 17t? 
>>- Tell me about basket life? I've mostly done rando bag set ups, but 
>>maybe one of those Wald racer baskets on this? What do you put in the 
>>basket to keep your sh** from falling through the holes? 
>>
>> So many choices for such a "simple" bike, right?
>>
>> Scott Calhoun
>> Tucson, AZ
>>
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[RBW] Re: Help Pimp My Quickbeam

[Scott Calhoun]

Thanks for all the thoughtful replies and excellent QB photos. 

Ginz--I'm leaning toward NOT re-spacing the frame back to 120mm. I don't 
care about riding fixed (on this bike) and nd, I have more 130mm wheelsets 
that will work at the ready. I'll just buy that Surly spacer kit. I like 
the sound of 46/18 to start with on gearing--with 38mm tires that gives me 
a 70 inch gear to start with and that seems like a good middle ground. I 
could also try a 19t which would bring me down to 66.5 gear inches.

Thinking I'll pick up one of these 46t Stonglight rings from Canada: 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stronglight-Zicral-Campagnolo-Fit-Chainring-135-BCD-42-46-50-52T-10-9spd-5-Bolt/192879355346?hash=item2ce88165d2:m:mXdWYG_3gj7tuQz0HyiOEaQ
Unless one of you can convince me that I there is a reason to run a 
narrow/wide ring set up. I can get a narrow/wide 46t 135bcd ring from 
China--currently shipping in the July/August timeframe!  

You reminded me that the generation of Campy Record 135bcd crankset that I 
have used to call for a 102mm BB. I dug deeper in the BB bin and produced a 
Chorus 102mm bb. Once the frame arrives, I'll have to do some trial and 
error testing on the chainline. I'm worried the 102mm bb, designed for 
skinny tired road racers, might bring the chain in too close to run fatter 
(43mm) tires. If so, I suppose I can go back to the SKF 110mm and then 
fiddle with the rear cog/spacers to get the chainline right.  

Thanks again,
Scott

On Thursday, May 21, 2020 at 6:45:51 AM UTC-7, Ginz wrote:
>
> I think you'd be better off not re-spacing the frame.
>
> The crankset and BB you have, do you know what chainline you get with that 
> bottom bracket?  You may have to install it and find out.  I'm guessing 
> somewhere around 45mm but 110mm BB sounds wide for a Campy crankset (to 
> me).  Trying to achieve that chainline with a 120mm fixed/free hub is tough 
> because those hubs are usually a 42mm chainline.That may not seem like 
> a big difference, but with fixed chair and a taught chain, it can be a big 
> deal.  Since you have an awfully nice crankset and BB, figure out what you 
> chainline is (to the inner and outer chainrings, and the center line, if 
> possible) and come back with that info.
>
> From there, the best type of hub can be identified.
>
> If you don't care about fixed gear and just want one singlespeed gear, 
> then any 130mm freehub with the cog and spacer kit you mentioned would be 
> very good and you could dial in the chainline using the inner or outer 
> chainring as you prefer.
>
> Gearing may take some experimentation.  You'd try one ratio, then 
> something else, then maybe go back to the original one.  Something like 
> 46/18 might be a good start.  I like around 67 gear inches for fixed gear 
> on road.YMMV.
>
> Ginz
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Help Pimp My Quickbeam

[Scott Calhoun]

[image: IMG_6143.jpg]

[image: IMG_6142.jpg]


On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 6:00:05 PM UTC-7, Scott Calhoun wrote:
>
> And by pimp I mean, "make into a functional and kinda handsome bicycle." I 
> always wanted a Quickbeam, and I've just missed a few for sale here. Last 
> week a friend alerted me that our own Reid Echols was putting out feelers 
> on Instagram about selling his 64cm QB. Long story short, a frameset is 
> headed my way.
>
> In preparation, I've been futzing in the parts bins, and thinking about 
> the build. I realized that it's been a good long while since I built up a 
> single speed--way back in 2011 when I did up a dumpster find Trek 720 frame 
> for my daughter's college bike. I'm getting the F/F/HS, so I have some 
> decisions to make. The frame has been re-spaced in the rear to 130mm OLN.
>
> A bit of info about my likely use-case scenarios. I live about 16 miles 
> from the center of town, and almost all my rides are longish. I do run 
> errands to the Post Office (7 miles round trip) and store (around 12), but 
> most of my rides are at least 25 miles. I'll also jump on dirt roads when I 
> can. Tucson is pretty flat in the valley, but we are surrounded on all 
> sides by mountains. If I want to climb, I can. On my geared bikes, my 
> average speed is16.5-18.5mph for rides up to 65 miles or so (I mention this 
> only for purposes of helping me decide gearing--see below).
>
> Parts I have:
>
>- SKF 110 bottom bracket
>- Beat up but functional Campy Record Double 172.5 crankset 135bcd 
>with various rings, mostly of the 53/39 variety
>- Nitto F32 front Rack just picked up from RBW member Joe Lonner
>- A set of vintage Mafac Canti brakes f/r
>- A nice light set silver set of Ritchey Classic tubeless compatible 
>wheels (1440 grams!)
>- Nitto Pearl 100mm stem, maybe a 110 too
>- Nitto Noodle 46cm (or maybe 44cm?) bars
>- Gravel King SK 38mm and 43mm TLC tires (a pair of each)
>
> Reid had it built at least two ways, both really attractive to my eye 
> (photos to follow): one with drops, one with risers. Seeing that I have 
> Noodles already, I'll likely just use those initially. I'm generally a drop 
> bar guy anyhow. So, my main questions are drivetrain/gearing.
>
>- Should I keep the rear spacing at 130mm and use a Surly Speed Spacer 
>kit: https://surlybikes.com/parts/spacer_kit
>- Or respace to 120mm (I also have a 120 fixed/free hub I could build 
>up).
>- Suggestions for gearing set ups. I noticed that I can buy 46t and 
>48t rings for the Campy 135bcd crankset I have. I typically ride bikes 
> with 
>a 46/48/49 tooth big ring and don't get out of the big ring in the valley. 
>Chain is somewhere mid-cassette. 
>- What would the original Sugino crankset gearing look like? What 
>would Grant's preferred set up be?
>- What about rear cog(s)? 16t, 17t? 
>- Tell me about basket life? I've mostly done rando bag set ups, but 
>maybe one of those Wald racer baskets on this? What do you put in the 
>basket to keep your sh** from falling through the holes? 
>
> So many choices for such a "simple" bike, right?
>
> Scott Calhoun
> Tucson, AZ
>
>

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[RBW] Help Pimp My Quickbeam

[Scott Calhoun]

And by pimp I mean, "make into a functional and kinda handsome bicycle." I 
always wanted a Quickbeam, and I've just missed a few for sale here. Last 
week a friend alerted me that our own Reid Echols was putting out feelers 
on Instagram about selling his 64cm QB. Long story short, a frameset is 
headed my way.

In preparation, I've been futzing in the parts bins, and thinking about the 
build. I realized that it's been a good long while since I built up a 
single speed--way back in 2011 when I did up a dumpster find Trek 720 frame 
for my daughter's college bike. I'm getting the F/F/HS, so I have some 
decisions to make. The frame has been re-spaced in the rear to 130mm OLN.

A bit of info about my likely use-case scenarios. I live about 16 miles 
from the center of town, and almost all my rides are longish. I do run 
errands to the Post Office (7 miles round trip) and store (around 12), but 
most of my rides are at least 25 miles. I'll also jump on dirt roads when I 
can. Tucson is pretty flat in the valley, but we are surrounded on all 
sides by mountains. If I want to climb, I can. On my geared bikes, my 
average speed is16.5-18.5mph for rides up to 65 miles or so (I mention this 
only for purposes of helping me decide gearing--see below).

Parts I have:

   - SKF 110 bottom bracket
   - Beat up but functional Campy Record Double 172.5 crankset 135bcd with 
   various rings, mostly of the 53/39 variety
   - Nitto F32 front Rack just picked up from RBW member Joe Lonner
   - A set of vintage Mafac Canti brakes f/r
   - A nice light set silver set of Ritchey Classic tubeless compatible 
   wheels (1440 grams!)
   - Nitto Pearl 100mm stem, maybe a 110 too
   - Nitto Noodle 46cm (or maybe 44cm?) bars
   - Gravel King SK 38mm and 43mm TLC tires (a pair of each)

Reid had it built at least two ways, both really attractive to my eye 
(photos to follow): one with drops, one with risers. Seeing that I have 
Noodles already, I'll likely just use those initially. I'm generally a drop 
bar guy anyhow. So, my main questions are drivetrain/gearing.

   - Should I keep the rear spacing at 130mm and use a Surly Speed Spacer 
   kit: https://surlybikes.com/parts/spacer_kit
   - Or respace to 120mm (I also have a 120 fixed/free hub I could build 
   up).
   - Suggestions for gearing set ups. I noticed that I can buy 46t and 48t 
   rings for the Campy 135bcd crankset I have. I typically ride bikes with a 
   46/48/49 tooth big ring and don't get out of the big ring in the valley. 
   Chain is somewhere mid-cassette. 
   - What would the original Sugino crankset gearing look like? What would 
   Grant's preferred set up be?
   - What about rear cog(s)? 16t, 17t? 
   - Tell me about basket life? I've mostly done rando bag set ups, but 
   maybe one of those Wald racer baskets on this? What do you put in the 
   basket to keep your sh** from falling through the holes? 

So many choices for such a "simple" bike, right?

Scott Calhoun
Tucson, AZ

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Re: [RBW] WTB: Nitto 32f front rack

[Scott Calhoun]

Perfect— I’ll take It, You can email me at sc...@zonagardens.com

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[RBW] WTB: Nitto 32f front rack

[Scott Calhoun]

I’ve got a QB incoming and need this rack. Let me know if any of y’all have one 
kicking around. 

Scott 

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Re: [RBW] Roadeo - The Final Rivendell Edition

[Scott Calhoun]

Looks great—built up nicely. 

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[RBW] Re: Pedal Strikes when Turning

[Scott Calhoun]

Plus one regarding wide platform pedals being a contributing factor. I 
rarely have had pedal strike except when using the VP platforms that Riv 
sold. If you want to pedal a Riv through corners, you'll probably want a 
Roadeo, Ram, or Roadini with the biggest tires you can get and clipless or 
other lower profile pedals. On my Ram, I used to pedal through corners all 
the time without issue. That said, I wasn't leaning into corners anywhere 
near as aggressively as I used to in a Crit. 

Scott Calhoun

On Wednesday, April 15, 2020 at 12:15:10 PM UTC-7, James / Analog Cycles 
wrote:
>
> Crit bikes have high BB's because you need to pedal thru turns.  Riv style 
> frames are not made for that.  You just don't pedal in turns.  Wide 
> platform pedals don't help either.  
>
> -James / Analog Cycles / Fan of high bottom brackets and short cranks.
>
> On Wednesday, April 15, 2020 at 12:18:02 PM UTC-4, John Hawrylak wrote:
>>
>> Past and current Rivendell models with 700C wheels have Bottom Bracket 
>> Drops (BBD) in the 75 to 80 mm range.  The exceptions seem to be: 
>> GusBothWilson at 70mm, Legalos at 70mm, and Quickbeam at 73mm.
>>
>> Is it common to have pedal strikes while turning??  Perhaps, you avoid 
>> pedaling when turning or cornering or hold the cranks near 3 and 9 o'clock.
>>
>> John Hawrylak
>> Woodstown NJ
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Why I went Tubeless

[Scott Calhoun]

Thanks for posting. The info that James has posted on Analog's site is 
great and aligns with my experiences and struggles. I've converted my 
wider-tired bikes to tubeless for the same reasons: 1. lower pressure w/o 
pinch flat fears 2. strikingly fewer flats, almost none. 

I would also be interesting in the differences between setting up wider rim 
tire combos and road 28-32mm tires that are run at higher pressures. So 
far, I've only set up my fatter >38mm tire bikes. But, I'm about to set up 
a regular-ass road bike wheelset with 28mm Conti 5000TL tires.

Scott Calhoun


On Wednesday, April 15, 2020 at 5:49:23 AM UTC-7, Tim Bantham wrote:
>
> There's been some discussion on the board lately about the pros and cons 
> of tubeless tires. I am a tubeless believer but I wasn't always that way. I 
> wanted to share my experiences as a way of adding some perspective to those 
> considering giving it a go. Analog cycles is doing an Instagram live on 
> tubeless tonight at 5:00 PM ET. You should watch it if you are remotely 
> interested. Much of my current tubeless knowledge was gained by talking 
> with James and Candice. Before I met the good folks at Analog I had quite a 
> bit of experience with tubeless setups. Some good and some not so good. 
>
> The first thing I'll make clear is that you can continue to run tubes in 
> your tires and be perfectly happy for the remainder of your biking life. 
> Nothing wrong with that. Tubeless is not going to rock your world. However, 
> there are many benefits to setting your tires up tubeless. I'd like to 
> share those with you based on my own experiences. 
>
> You can run low pressure without fear of getting a pinch flat. If you are 
> a Riv fan you already know the benefit of soft tires. Subtle ride quality 
> with lots of cush to absorb the bumps. To me this is worth it alone but 
> there are other benefits. 
>
> Much easier to fix a flat tire. True confession I rarely get a flat tire 
> with tubeless. If you get a small puncture sometimes just riding the tire 
> allows sealant to get into the hole and seal the tire. If it doesn't seal 
> you have to plug the hole. Let's say you run over a nail. You can fix the 
> flat without removing the wheel. Murphy's law is that 75% of your flats 
> will be on the rear tire.With a tube you have to take the rear wheel off in 
> the field. No big deal right? I know... I've done it tons of times. That 
> said, if I can avoid doing so why wouldn't I? With tubeless you can plug 
> the hole without removing the wheel from the bike. That to me that is a 
> significant benefit. Of course there remains the possibility that you can 
> get a gash in the sidewall. That happens but if you are prepared with 
> gorilla tape and gorilla glue you can fix that without removing the wheel 
> from the bike as well. 
>
> Final tips: 
>
>- Get the Dynapill made by Dynaplug for your tubeless repairs. 
>- Still carry a tube with you. A tube could always be installed as a 
>last resort but it should be rare. 
>- Invest in a good air compressor. An air compressor is handy! The 
>pumps that are sold claiming to seat tubeless tires don't work as claimed. 
>I know because I own one. 
>- Don't try to seat tubeless with a regular bicycle pump. Doesn't work 
>and not worth the frustration. See above. 
>- Use Orange Seal Endurance Sealant. Best sealant on the market. Blows 
>away anything else I've ever tried. 
>- The tubeless tape that Analog sells is fantastic! Easy to work with, 
>has the right amount of stretch. 
>- Don't try to set up any old rim/tire combo tubeless. Look for rims 
>that are advertised as tubeless. I have Velocity Cliffhangers and Quills 
> on 
>my bikes. Both set up easily.  
>- Buy a tubeless ready tire. 
>- Don't worry about sealant randomly oozing out of your tire. Doesn't 
>happen if you set everything up correctly.
>- Use a regular bicycle pump to maintain air in your tires after 
>successful set up. 
>- Refill with fresh sealant every six months.
>- Buy the Park Tools valve core remover to make adding fresh sealant 
>easier. 
>
> Hit me up with any questions. Do watch the tubeless set up live show 
> tonight on Instagram and go to Analogs website for tubeless set up tips. 
>
> Tim
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Group Riding / New Covid-19 World

[Scott Calhoun]

There is another perspective on this from Spain. A doctor there (who is 
also a cyclist) made a video pleading with cyclists not to ride at all in 
this point in this point in the outbreak as there are simply not doctors 
and space to handle cycling accidents on top of the virus patients. My 
daughter lives in Madrid and she and her riding friends are only riding 
home trainers right now.

I'm not suggesting we are there yet, or telling others what to do, but I'm 
personally only doing solo rides right now. The majority of cycling 
accidents I've been involved in and know of occured on group rides. Riding 
solo is risk mitigation. Keeping out of the emergency room helps everybody 
at least as much as social distancing. 

Scott Calhoun
Tucson, AZ

On Monday, March 16, 2020 at 4:21:11 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> People really appreciate the bell on the trail, even more than the usual 
> gushing. Lots of great interactions from a few steps back, as folks release 
> the tensions they have. Interactions are easier now that everyone social 
> distances (which I've long tried to do because of the scents of most 
> peoples laundry, shampoo etc, let alone the effect of unexpected hand on 
> the shoulder. Sardonic grin.).
>
> I saw the Bay area is instructed to shelter in place save for food, 
> emergencies, care of others, and exercise. Time for some long rides to the 
> middle of nowhere, aye?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick 
>

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Presale

[Scott Calhoun]

Point taken Jack—if I lived in Seattle, I might feel differently about dryers. 

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Presale

[Scott Calhoun]

OK more laundry stuff. One of the reasons it’s easier for Europeans to not have 
dryers, is that the compact frontloading washers they use have super high RPM 
spin cycles. When we returned back and needed a new washer we found a scratch 
and dent Electrolux compact with a spin cycle of 1400 RPM. Our clothes come out 
nearly dry.

Scott, “spin to win” Calhoun

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Presale

[Scott Calhoun]

After a couple of trips to Spain the last few years, where nobody has a dryer, 
my wife and I decided we didn’t need a clothes dryer and ditched ours. Really, 
it’s the right choice for the planet—you can feel very good about your 
Appaloosa now.  Ha ha

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[RBW] Re: New ROADEO

[Scott Calhoun]

Bill's BMC Monstercross really excels at being a Monstercross bike. I got a 
good chuckle out of his 9+ rating for it. 

Scott

On Thursday, January 16, 2020 at 9:54:38 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> John W,  
>
> It really depends on what you are asking.  Where I put a bike in my stable 
> is exactly where I decide to put it.  I put the Black Mtn Monster Cross in 
> the "monster cross" slot of my stable.  That's where I'd put it.  Is that 
> what you are asking?
>
> If that isn't what you are asking, then here are a bunch of other 
> questions that may be closer to what you are after:
>
> *On a scale of 1 to 10, how good is each of those four bikes at being a 
> rim-brake-monster-cross bike? * 
>
> Black Mountain Monster Cross: 9+
> Black Mountain Road: 2
> Leo Roadini: 3
> Roadeo: 2
>
> *On a scale of 1 to 10, how good is each of those four bikes at being a 
> road racing bike? * 
>
> Black Mountain Monster Cross: 5
> Black Mountain Road: 8
> Leo Roadini: 6
> Roadeo: 9
>
> *On a scale of 1 to 10, how good is each of those four bikes at being an 
> all-rounder? * 
>
> Black Mountain Monster Cross: 8
> Black Mountain Road: 4
> Leo Roadini: 5
> Roadeo: 4
>
> Those three road bikes would make lousy off-road bikes for me.  If the 
> Roadeo was my only bike, I would not use it as a mountain bike.  I'd mainly 
> limit my riding to things you can use a road racing bike for.  
>
> If my Black Mountain Monster Cross was my only bike, it would serve as a 
> good platform for a lot of different kinds of builds.  I'd tune my build 
> for the things I wanted to do.  I'd retain tire selection as the main way 
> to change the bike's personality from ride to ride.  I'd have no qualms 
> about running Barlow Pass Extralights (700x38) on it for it's raciest 
> configuration.  
>
> Bill stable-boy Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
>
> On Thursday, January 16, 2020 at 2:47:34 AM UTC-8, John W wrote:
>>
>> I know this is veering off topic, but Bill, where would you put the BMC 
>> Monster Cross rim brake within those comparisons?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: New ROADEO

[Scott Calhoun]

Mike,

That is pretty high praise for the BMC road frame seeing that you could buy 
4.66 new BMC road frames for the price of one Roadeo. I know, MUSA, 
Rivendell lugs, Mark Nobilette, all add to the gloriousness of the Roadeo, 
but...

Scott "who wanted buy Mike's 62cm BMC road before he changed his mind about 
selling it" Calhoun

On Monday, January 13, 2020 at 10:22:46 AM UTC-7, Mike Godwin wrote:
>
> I tend to agree with Mr Lindsay. Having both, but keeping one, the ride is 
> very similar between the BMC Road and Roadeo. And agree, aesthetics and 
> build quality differ, but the BMC Road for a tig welded bike looks pretty 
> nice. I retained the 62 cm BMC, the 61 cm Roadeo went to Mr "can you help 
> me with my fender line" Guild. The BMC Road planes for me, the Roadeo is 
> more comfortable on a longer ride. Same build bits on both all around 
> except for stems and bars (threadless stem and dream bars v conventional 
> and noodles).  
>
> Mike SLO CA 
>
> On Sunday, January 12, 2020 at 9:09:34 AM UTC-8, ted wrote:
>
>> Bill,
>>
>> Thanks for sharing your impressions. Somehow I had gotten the idea RBW 
>> intended the Roadini to be less expensive but functionally equivalent to 
>> the Roadeo (similar to the previous Hillborne Hillson pair where GP has 
>> written if he closes his eyes he cant tell which he is riding). I was 
>> surprised when I read how different you found the Roadini and Roadeo to be, 
>> and it left me wondering if the Black Mountain was functionally more like 
>> one or the other or maybe someplace in between.
>>
>> again, thanks for the info
>> ted
>>
>> On Sunday, January 12, 2020 at 5:45:04 AM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>> I'd call the Black Mountain a low cost Roadeo.  Fits similar.  Rides 
>>> similar.  It's nowhere near as beautiful, and well crafted aesthetically, 
>>> but I consider it functionally equivalent.  Having one of each in my 
>>> collection (which I do) only "makes sense" if I'm going to keep them at 
>>> different locations (which I do).  My Black Mountain Road lives at my mom's 
>>> house.  I can grab it off the hook and rip off a 20 - 120 mile ride and 
>>> it's like an old friend.  The Black Mountain Road is different from the Leo 
>>> in exactly the ways the Roadeo is different from the Leo.  
>>>
>>> Another way to represent the difference in attitude that I've used 
>>> before and that a couple listers found useful is this:  On the Roadeo and 
>>> on the Black Mountain Road, I feel a little bit weird if I'm not wearing 
>>> racing kit.  On the Leo, I felt a little bit weird if I was wearing racing 
>>> kit.  
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Saturday, January 11, 2020 at 9:00:18 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:

 Thanks Bill. Could you also expound on how the black mountain road (not 
 plus) relates to the Roadini and Roadeo?
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: New ROADEO

[Scott Calhoun]

Bill, I think this is a smart way to explain the differences between the 
bikes: "On the Roadeo and on the Black Mountain Road, I feel a little bit 
weird if I'm not wearing racing kit.  On the Leo, I felt a little bit weird 
if I was wearing racing kit." For me, another way of thinking about bicycle 
differences would be to ask, "would I run flats or clipless on this bike?" 
That might also determine if I'd wear a racing kit or not on that bike.

Last winter, I did a big 80 mile dirt road loop in southeastern Arizona 
with a group that included Ultraromance (I don't want to start an 
Ultraromance debate here--he was always been friendly and open with me). He 
was riding a pretty 61cm blue Roadini with a mix of old and new components 
with cream colored 38mm tires stuffed in. I was on my Ritchey Ascent with 
650b x 48mm tires. I rode the most technical part of a big long descent 
right by him and I was impressed with how fast and confidently he road it 
on dirt. I know this is mostly due to the rider, but I suspect the long 
chainstays helped too. Based on chainstay length (also not trying to start 
a fight about that here) I would guess the Roadini would have a slight 
advantage among these three if you were going to do more or your riding on 
dirt roads than pavement. 

Bike insights has geometries for the Roadeo, Roadini, and BMC road on their 
site and using the "Bike on Bike" comparison, the 63cm Roadeo and 61cm 
Roadini are very similar. The only sizable differences look to be stack 
height and chainstay length: 
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries[]=5bb29e327581960016665a33[]=5b8578f548f3a30004789b19[]=[]=

When you compare the  63cm Roadeo and 62cm BMC road, they are really 
similar, but the BMC road has a bit less trail, and a bit longer reach, and 
less stack. Bike insights categorizes the BMC as "Somewhat aggressive" and 
the Roadeo and Roadini as "Somewhat upright." Bill's first-hand 
observations, which I'd trust more than the numbers based Bike Insights, 
are interesting because just looking at the numbers, the Roadini and Roadeo 
would seem more similar to each other than the BMC. 
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries[]=5a1e64fe62315c0018d7[]=5b8578f548f3a30004789b19[]=[]=

As some of you might have seen, I posted at WTB for a 63cm Roadeo a few 
weeks back. I had a couple of responses, and I let one in the Bay area slip 
away whilst I dithered. Part of my hesitation was that a 62cm BMC road is 
such as bargain and is pretty similar, minus the fancy lugs, and MUSA 
heritage. I like lugs fine, but I nice fillets and even clean TIG work, so 
I've also thought about having another US builder make me a medium reach 
brake road frame along the lines of the Roadeo, but minus the lugs. 
Nobilette was one of the builders I was looking at after listening to a 
podcast interview with him over the holidays where he said that things were 
slow and he was looking for more work. It looks like the good folks at 
Rivendell heard this as well and stepped in. So now, if I'm ordering fancy 
new semi-custom, it might make more sense just to get a Roadeo as I'd be 
able to support both Rivendell and Nobilette with the purchase. It really 
just all comes down to budget, at 4.5x the cost of the BMC Road, the Roadeo 
is definitely more of a stretch to afford.  

Scott

 

On Sunday, January 12, 2020 at 6:45:04 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> I'd call the Black Mountain a low cost Roadeo.  Fits similar.  Rides 
> similar.  It's nowhere near as beautiful, and well crafted aesthetically, 
> but I consider it functionally equivalent.  Having one of each in my 
> collection (which I do) only "makes sense" if I'm going to keep them at 
> different locations (which I do).  My Black Mountain Road lives at my mom's 
> house.  I can grab it off the hook and rip off a 20 - 120 mile ride and 
> it's like an old friend.  The Black Mountain Road is different from the Leo 
> in exactly the ways the Roadeo is different from the Leo.  
>
> Another way to represent the difference in attitude that I've used before 
> and that a couple listers found useful is this:  On the Roadeo and on the 
> Black Mountain Road, I feel a little bit weird if I'm not wearing racing 
> kit.  On the Leo, I felt a little bit weird if I was wearing racing kit.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Saturday, January 11, 2020 at 9:00:18 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
>>
>> Thanks Bill. Could you also expound on how the black mountain road (not 
>> plus) relates to the Roadini and Roadeo?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: New ROADEO

[Scott Calhoun]

Yes please, link to the photo! I can’t seem to find the photo on Rivs site. 

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[RBW] Re: New ROADEO

[Scott Calhoun]

I don’t like the price of the RH crankset, but if you want an 11 speed 
compatibility, 177mm arms, a very narrow Q factor in a subcompact double (I’ve 
run 30/46 and 32/48), there are no other options that I know of. IMO the RH 
style looks perfect for a Roadeo. If you can live with 170, 175 cranks with a 
slightly wider Q factor, there are other choices. 

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[RBW] WTB: 63cm Roadeo or 62cm Legolas

[Scott Calhoun]

I know this is a long shot, but thought was worth asking. I'd be most 
interested in a frameset, but might consider a complete also. As long as 
I'm asking about hard to find stuff, I would also consider 62cm Legolas (I 
can hear collective laughter at this request). Anybody holding? Frame 
condition not super important, so long as they are functionally sound. 

Contact me off-list.

Scott Calhoun
Tucson, AZ USA

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[RBW] Re: FS 64cm Rambouillet $900 plus shipping

[Scott Calhoun]

Ram is SOLD pending payment.

Thanks for all the interest.

Scott

On Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 8:30:03 AM UTC-7, Scott Calhoun wrote:
>
> I’m letting go of my well-loved Ram to help fund a bike tour with my 
> daughter in Spain this summer. 
>
> Frame has been well used—I climbed every paved pass in Arizona on it last 
> summer. It is a fine riding bicycle. It has a few scratches, but no dents 
> and is in great working shape. Looking at the bike today it looks like the 
> wheels could be trued up each one is out about a half a millimeter 
> laterally Mentor in this message on my phone I’ll try to add some photos 
> later 
> Build details: 
> Ultegra hubs, headset, 9 speed bar-end shifters, 
> Sugino triple 175mm cranks 
> Lugged nitto stem with 48cm noodles 
> Cro-mo seatpost (not sure of brand) 
> Mavic Open Pro SUP 32hole rims 
> Jack Brown 33.5mm tires (clearance for at least 35mm) 
> Diacompe 610 Centerpull brakes with newer Koolstop salmon pads. 
> No saddle or pedals 
>
> Scott Calhoun 
> Tucson, AZ

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Re: [RBW] Big 'Un, and flooding, minor

[Scott Calhoun]

95 percent sure that is a gopher snake and not a rattler. I had one as a 
pet as a boy. Also, I see several rattler species here frequently (and 
gopher snakes) and this doesn't look like a rattler. See image here: 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/42389547@N00/3081243186

Scott Calhoun
Tucson, AZ

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 4:53:39 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I didn't see any rattles, so perhaps rat snake as you say. Heck, I've not 
> have been as retiring hand I known that. But long and fat!
>
> For the next couple of miles I started at each fallen branch in the road.
>
> This reminds me (onlookers rushing for cover) of finding a spitting cobra 
> in our woodpile and calling the snake park to come and catch it -- young 
> Brit on crutches with graspy stick. 
>
> On another occasion, evening, the dogs were frantic and we went outside to 
> see a fat, green pit viper (?) crawling down the driveway. The askari 
> bludgeoned it to death with his knobkerrie and my brother, 11 or 12 at the 
> time, stuffed it, poorly because it started to stink.
>
> On Fri, May 17, 2019 at 5:36 PM Jim M. > 
> wrote:
>
>> Rattles are pretty obvious on a snake that big.
>>  [image: Image result for rattlesnake rattle]
>>
>> I'm gonna guess a rat snake, which has a triangular head but is not a 
>> viper: 
>>
>>
>> On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 4:28:30 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
>>> It did occur to me after I posted that i couldn't see anything that 
>>> looked like rattles -- not that I'd know rattles to recognize them.
>>>
>>> But this thing was in real life a lot fatter than it appears in the 
>>> photo, and the head looked triangular.
>>>
>>> Herpetologists ...?
>>>
>>> On Fri, May 17, 2019 at 5:22 PM 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch <
>>> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Patrick:
>>>>
>>>> Not an expert, but I’ve seen rattlers, and I don’t think that is one. 
>>>> Rattlers are fatter and have a more distinctive pattern in heir backs. 
>>>> Their heads are quite wide and flat. And one that long would have had 
>>>> rattles. 
>>>>
>>>> Any snake experts out there?
>>>>
>>>> –Eric N
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On May 17, 2019, at 4:08 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I photographically cut the head off this big rattler -- I assume it's a 
>>>> rattler; I know nothing about snakes. I pulled off Corrales road onto the 
>>>> adjacent ditch road and slammed on the brakes, as this bigfella was slowly 
>>>> crossing in front of me. I courteously insisted he go first.
>>>>
>>>> 4' long.
>>>>
>>>> With exceptionally generous rain -- for a city that gets an 
>>>> east-to-west average of 9"/year -- the river was running at 2X its normal 
>>>> flow -- this was 2 weeks ago; maybe more now; and this is before the 
>>>> snowmelt runoff. Flooding in the lowlying areas adjacent to the river as I 
>>>> road a nice 23 mile out 'n' back along the Corrales acequia roads.
>>>>
>>>> Patrick Moore, in balmy but windy ABQ, NM
>>>>
>>>> -- 
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> **
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *Still 'round the corner there may waitA new road or a secret gate,And 
>>>> though we pass them by today,Tomorrow we may come this wayAnd take the 
>>>> hidden paths that runTowards the Moon or to the Sun.*
>>>> --- J.R.R. Tolkien
>>>> ---
>>>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews
>>>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching
>>>> Other professional writing services
>>>> Expensive! But good.
>>>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>>>> Patrick Moore
>>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
>>>>
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[RBW] FS 64cm Rambouillet $900 plus shipping

[Scott Calhoun]

I’m letting go of my well-loved Ram to help fund a bike tour with my daughter 
in Spain this summer. 

Frame has been well used—I climbed every paved pass in Arizona on it last 
summer. It is a fine riding bicycle. It has a few scratches, but no dents and 
is in great working shape. Looking at the bike today it looks like the wheels 
could be trued up each one is out about a half a millimeter laterally Mentor in 
this message on my phone I’ll try to add some photos later
Build details:
Ultegra hubs, headset, 9 speed bar-end shifters, 
Sugino triple 175mm cranks 
Lugged nitto stem with 48cm noodles
Cro-mo seatpost (not sure of brand)
Mavic Open Pro SUP 32hole rims 
Jack Brown 33.5mm tires (clearance for at least 35mm) 
Diacompe 610 Centerpull brakes with newer Koolstop salmon pads. 
No saddle or pedals

Scott Calhoun 
Tucson, AZ

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[RBW] Re: Seeking wisdom of 29+ bikepacking vs. 2.1”

[Scott Calhoun]

Late to this thread, but I will chip in as I have some recent experience 
with plus tires. Last spring, I got a 2018 Salsa Fargo with 27.5 x 3" tires 
(WTB Rangers set up on wide SunRoc 50mm rims) and I've been off road 
extensively on the bike on single and multiple day trips, loaded and 
unloaded. I like the plus tires much more than I expected. The low pressure 
and volume float over all sorts of surfaces, and on loose climbs, the brute 
traction is wonderful. I had originally thought about building a second set 
of wheels with narrower tires, but can't imagine doing that now. In fact, 
I'm building a Jones LWB Plus to see how I like 29" x 3". 

I should have prefaced my comments above by saying that I also owned a 
Surly Pugsley and found the 26 x 4" wheels with heavy tires ponderous and 
prone to self-steering--whereas the current crop of lighter 3" tires for 
plus bikes seem more lively and responsive.

Scott Calhoun
Tucson, AZ USA
On Friday, January 18, 2019 at 7:15:06 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Thank you all for the input. You’ve helped me tremendiously. I will be 
> practicing contentment and continue to delight in riding the Hunqabeam and 
> Quickbeam and passing on Boots. 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick

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[RBW] Re: What epoch of Rivster are you?

[Scott Calhoun]

I'm guess I'm a "Golden Ager" by default. 

I cut my cycling teeth riding Bridgetones that Grant designed, but my only 
Rivendell has been a blue 64cm Rambouillet that I found in semi-rough 
cosmetic shape at Bicas, our local co-op, earlier this year. I couldn't 
(and still can't) believe my luck. I test rode it with in the parking lot, 
and it was love at first pedal stroke. I climbed most of the high mountain 
roads in Arizona on it this summer, and it never let me down. Lively, 
predictable, comfortable, and just plain fun to ride. 

Scott Calhoun
Tucson, AZ

On Wednesday, September 26, 2018 at 4:55:34 PM UTC-7, Philip Williamson 
wrote:
>
> Recent discussions make me wonder, what epoch of Rivendell bikes or 
> aesthetic most appeals to list members? 
>
> Which era do you identify with the most, or like the best? 
> Is it the era you first encountered Riv in, or did you look back through 
> the back catalog and say, "That's the one for me?" Or did you arrive early, 
> travel into the future with Rivendell and love best what's happening now? 
>
>- Are you a "*Proto-Riv*" aficionado of Longlows, Allrounders, and 
>Herons? 
>- A "*Golden Ager*?" Are Herons, Rambouillets, and Salukis your 
>favorites? 
>- Or are you a "*2TTer,*" a Bombadil, Hunq, and Sam Hillborner?
>- A "*Clemster*" and a Rosco? 
>- Have you become a "*New Atlantean*?" A Swoop-a-tuber, Hill-biker, 
>and a Gus Bootster? 
>
> Are these fixed preferences, or have you been most into a different era 
> before? Do you have shadings of more than one?  I first encountered Riv in 
> the Proto era, looking at the All Rounder. Overall I'm a Golden Ager, but 
> the New Atlantean age is looking pretty attractive. 
>
> Philip 
> Santa Rosa, CA 
>

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[RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Scott Calhoun]

Jackie O. Lope then. Or Beryl Burton. 

On Monday, June 11, 2018 at 9:34:09 PM UTC-7, Justin, Oakland wrote:
>
> If Grant reads this: please pick a woman’s name for the MTB. Perhaps even 
> a non-WASPy woman’s name. It’s be a welcome change and I’d love to shred on 
> a Ellie Fant, Hilda Clime, Filla Gree, or Some such. 
>
> Just my two cents. 
>
> -J

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[RBW] Re: Ride Report--La Ruta Loca 200k

[Scott Calhoun]

Bill,

I'm impressed with the Ruta Loca route: 13k of climbing over 125miles--it 
is like the Eroica California Heroic route with an extra 4k of climbing. 
Also, I really enjoyed your recap, the video, and especially the 
soundtrack. La Ruta Loca is now officially on my list. Thanks for sharing.

Scott 

On Monday, June 11, 2018 at 12:19:55 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Like it or not, I did manage to make my music video.  It's easier to 
> motivate oneself to gather the footage if you have a concept ahead of 
> time.  For me, 'concept' means a song.  The song is my own bootleg 
> recording of "Kopi Luwak", played by the El Cerrito High School Jazz 
> Ensemble.  My son Henry plays trombone for the jazz ensemble.  Check it out 
> if you like.  It's about 5:30 in length.
>
>  Youtube link 
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: Big Payoff--Californa State Mountain Bike Championships

[Scott Calhoun]

What a great day. and story Congratulations Bill. Reading this, I kind of 
want to see the movie. Any idea when it will be out:)

Scott "who sadly grew up before there were High School cycling leagues" 
Calhoun
Tucson,  AZ

On Monday, May 21, 2018 at 8:13:13 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> As all the regulars know, I'm team mechanic and assistant coach for El 
> Cerrito High School Mountain Bike Racing Team.  We're a Division 1 team in 
> the Norcal League, Southern Conference.  Our conference is traditionally 
> dominated by Salinas High School, but our local rivals are Berkeley High 
> and Albany High.  Last year was a breakthrough season for us.  We finished 
> 2nd only to Salinas in League.  This season we thought we had a chance 
> against Salinas, but everything had to be perfect.  Meanwhile, it was 
> pretty clear Berkeley was tired of getting beat, and was gunning for us 
> with their massive team.  There were 5 league races, and while all of them 
> were great, none of them was perfect.  Something went wrong each time
>
> Race 1:  Nitzan missed it for a religious ceremony.  Enzo finished third 
> in his race, not realizing he had a broken collarbone.  We were 2nd place
> Race 2:  Enzo missed the race with his broken collarbone.  Rainy 
> conditions slowed down our top varsit boys. We were 2nd place
> Race 3:  Enzo missed the race with his shoulder.  Maddie had a mechanical 
> in the last mile and finished 2nd instead of her normal 1st.  We were 3rd 
> in the race, 2nd overall
> Race 4:  Enzo was back, but had to start in the very back of the field due 
> to having so few points.  Maria was nipped at the line for 1st, the only 
> race she didn't win.  Claire missed the race for a family event.  We were 
> 3rd in the race, 2nd overall
> Race 5:  Almost everyone had their perfect race.  We won JV Girls and 
> Sophomore Girls.  We got a 3rd in Freshman Girls and a 4th in JV Girls.  We 
> got a 2nd in Varsity Boys, Sophomore Boys and Freshman Boys.  We got a 10th 
> in Varsity Boys as well.  All we needed to beat Salinas was a decent 
> showing from our small but strong JV boys, but Tal, our top rider, switched 
> bikes right before the start and had a derailer problem.  He switched bikes 
> again, started 3 minutes behind the entire field, had the ride of his life 
> to finish 6th anyway.  Then the 10 minute penalty for switching bikes 
> placed him 18th.  He could have won that day.  Because of his low showing 
> we placed second to Salinas, 14 points behind them, out of ~4000 total 
> points.  We maintained our 2nd place finish in League
>
> At State Championships, three Leagues race together:  SoCal, NorCal North, 
> and NorCal South.  The three leagues are roughly the same size and 
> strength, traditionally.  So it was pretty normal to expect that if you 
> finished 5th in League, you were probably going to finish 15th in State.  
> The best El Cerrito has ever done was 10th as a team.  Our goal was to be 
> the top team from our league.  In order to keep the fields relatively 
> manageable, only the top ~60% of riders are allowed to compete.  Each of 
> the 11 races are limited to a max field of 100, and all of them had about 
> 80 riders in them, so it was a big event.  It was hosted in Petaluma, so it 
> was the first time this season that our racers got to sleep in their own 
> beds.  Things started great with the girls:  
>
> Maddie, who was first overall in League for JV Girls, finished 4th.  
> Claire, who was 6th overall in League for JV Girls, finished 6th!  Amazing
> Maria, who was first in League in Sophomore Girls, finished 3rd 
>
> That was amazing.  The next wave was the Sophomore Boys, who kept it going
>
> Nitzan was 6th overall in League, and finished on the podium in 5th
> Keith was 8th overall in League, and finished 10th racing on my personal 
> bike (Yes, I have the 10th fastest mountain bike in the State of 
> California, and I can prove it)
>
> Freshman Boys was another slog for Enzo because he again had to race from 
> the back of the pack but plowed through a huge field to finish 12th
>
> Finally, the JV and Varsity Boys went off, and we got three more amazing 
> rides
>
> Tal was 6th overall in JV Boys in League and finished 11th in the State
> Evan was 10th overall in League for Varsity Boys and finished 20th
> Matt was 5th overall in League for Varsity Boys and finished 5th in a 
> photo-finish for 4th
>
> It was a near-perfect performance for our team, the first nearly perfect 
> day all season.  Salinas was 6th as a team, Berkeley was 8th, and Albany 
> was 9th, but we made our goal as the top team from NorCal-South.  
> NorCal-North was won by Tamalpais High School, but we beat them, too.  
> SoCal has a number of powerhouse teams, led by Newbury Park, but we beat 
> them also.  Many of these teams were fielding 50-60 racers.  We had 16 
> racers and placed SECOND overall in the state of California.  We were only 
> behind Marin County perennial behemoth, Sir 

Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Scott Calhoun]

I vote for Jacqueloupe. It is funny, western, mythical (some claim...), and 
a chimera rather than a person. I can already picture the headtube badge. 

Scott Calhoun
Tucson, AZ USA

On Thursday, May 3, 2018 at 9:39:08 PM UTC-7, jbu...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Jacquieloupe 
>
> On 5/3/18, James Warren <jimcw...@earthlink.net > wrote: 
> > 
> > Speaking of that artist and such bikes... 
> > 
> > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VR4KaDeAuI=8s 
> > 
> > 
> > -Original Message- 
> >>From: Michael Morrissey <michaelg...@gmail.com > 
> >>Sent: May 3, 2018 5:50 PM 
> >>To: RBW Owners Bunch <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com > 
> >>Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg? 
> >> 
> >>Sir Barney Johnston just kind of sounds close to Bonnie Prince Billy. 
> >> 
> >>-- 
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[RBW] Re: Wanted: 650b Rear Wheel, or Advice on Which to Buy

[Scott Calhoun]

I checked my parts catacombs, and found a brand new 650b rear, 130mm 
spacing, 28 hole Velocity Synergy O.C. rim with eyelets, (silver, made in 
Aussieland), Tiagra hub, DT straight gauge spokes, perfectly true and 
round. No skewer, $75 bucks plus actual shipping. It is not a hand built 
wheel, but I did touch it up and it looks good and strong. For the record, 
I have another set of 650b velocity 28 holes that I've put through the 
ringer and they've held up like champs. I'm 175lbs mas o menos, mas during 
oktoberfest. 

Scott Calhoun
Tucson, AZ


On Saturday, September 23, 2017 at 12:17:02 AM UTC-7, Evan E. wrote:
>
> Do you have a silver, 32-spoke, 130-spaced 650b rear wheel sitting around 
> forlorn? If so, I'd
> like to buy it or at least take a look (in person or in pictures) for my 
> new-to-me Rambouillet. If not, I have a dilemma I'm sure you-all can help 
> me with:
>
> 1. Invest in a proper rear wheel, built by Rich Lesnick.
> ~ or ~
> 2. Check my LBS to see what they have.
> ~ or ~
> 3. Buy these BIKE 650B WHEELSET RIM BRAKE 27.5 SLVR 130 MM HUB 8/10 SPD 
> WEI ZAC19 36 H wheels from UglyRM on eBay.
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/BIKE-650B-WHEELSET-RIM-BRAKE-27-5-SLVR-130-MM-HUB-8-10-SPD-WEI-ZAC19-36-H-/252604585112?hash=item3ad0681498:g:9f8AAOSw8RJXCUGl
>
> Yes, door #3 is the cheap path. The spokes are 36, and straight gauge (I 
> think?), and may not be tensioned properly. The Zac19 rims may be a pain to 
> mount tires on. The hubs might be mediocre. But that price though.
>
> Please talk some sense into me. Budget wheels aren't, right?
>
> Thanks, 
> Evan E.
> San Francisco, CA
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] WTB: Nitto 32F Campee Front Rack

[Scott Calhoun]

Looking for one of these racks. This is the mini front rack version of the 
campee, as seen here: 
https://www.rivbike.com/collections/racks/products/nitto-mini-front-rack-32f-20020

I'm hoping for one without the front tab.

Contact me off list if you've got one you want to part with.

Scott Calhoun

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[RBW] Re: Hitch rack recommendations?

[Scott Calhoun]

For several years, I've had the Thule Doulbletrack Rack that I think is a 
generation earlier that the one you are inquiring about. I think you can 
still buy it new 
here: 
https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Bike-Racks/Thule/TH990XT.html?feed=npn=EAIaIQobChMIyL6gydHZ1QIVBZR-Ch1vQAu6EAQYASABEgJF4PD_BwE

I like it because it accommodates all of the bike types and sizes that I 
deal with and will work with fenders just fine. Sometimes, handlebars and 
saddles will interfere with each other, but you can slide the wheel mounts 
fore and aft to make it work in most cases. It also locks. I've driven with 
bikes on it from Tucson to N.C. and back and Tucson to Portland and back 
without issue. 

Scott

On Monday, August 14, 2017 at 11:11:07 AM UTC-7, Michele wrote:
>
> Shopping for a rack for my car, so I can get my bike to farther flung 
> locations, and I'm realizing that most hitch racks require a naked front 
> wheel. I need one that allows me to have a small rack and Wald 137 on the 
> front. I'm considering the Thule DoubleTrack Pro 
> https://www.thule.com/en-us/us/bike-rack/hitch-bike-racks/thule-doubletrack-pro-_-1691160
>  
> but I'm wondering what riders in this group use?
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: PBP Training Weekend

[Scott Calhoun]

Love the photos (and that Singer!). It looks like you had a great ride. 
Looking forward to seeing your PBP photos. PBP is on my list for 2019. 
Allez! Andiamo! Andale! 

Scott in Tucson

On Tuesday, July 21, 2015 at 1:54:58 PM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:

 Heck, once you’ve made it to Mendocino, Ft Bragg is just a hop and a skip 
 away, right?

 Yes, the malt shop place is Pick’s in Cloverdale. Classic American food—I 
 had a yummy grilled cheese, followed by a huge soft serve ice cream cone.

 --Eric N
 campyo...@me.com javascript:
 www.CampyOnly.com
 Campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
 @Campyonlyguy

  
 On Jul 21, 2015, at 8:48 AM, 'pb' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript: wrote:

 Great photos, nice ride, well done.

 Holy cow, you made it up to Fort Bragg??  Nice.  Do I recognize the ice 
 cream stand as being in Cloverdale?  Classy bike.

 Bonne route, bonne journee,

 ~pb 
 (San Diego, but soon to be Sonoma)

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[RBW] Re: L'Eroica California (Oh how I wish I went)

[Scott Calhoun]

The event, course, people and food were tons of fun. I rode my '71 Raleigh 
International, updated with silver shifters, silver dual-pivot brakes, and 
modern 10 Campy record hubs (with free hub body). The hubs were laced to 32 
hole silver Pacenti PL23 700c box rims, and therefore looked somewhat 
correct. My bike technically met the most critical regulations (pre-1987 
frame, friction dt shifters, non-aero brakes, toe clips, and wheels with 32 
spokes), but because I acquired my bike as a frame only, my parts were not 
period correct. I didn't have the time/money to hunt down all the period 
parts so I built it with what I had on hand in my parts bins. From what I 
saw, enforcement of regulations was on the honor system and I felt like my 
bike build was in the spirit of the event. I did see a couple of Rivendells 
with modern parts. 

I'll for sure be back next year. Great riding, company, and food. Wes did a 
great job IMO. I'm also itching to do the Japan Eroica. I rode with the 
Japanese organizers for a bit in California and I have a 1973 Fuji Finest 
that is ready to ride around Mt. Fuji.

Scott Calhoun
Tucson, AZ

On Tuesday, April 14, 2015 at 8:34:38 PM UTC-7, Tom Virgil wrote:

 One of my close associates at work had the opportunity to participate in 
 LEroica 
 California. http://www.eroicacalifornia.com/ Next year, I am there. 
  MUST DO IT.  If I can drag any of you along, that would be great.

 In the mean time, he shared some links to what constitutes some awesome 
 bicycle eye candy.

 Day 1 http://www.plattyjo.com/2015-leroica-california-day-1/
 Day 2 http://www.plattyjo.com/2015-leroica-california/

 Oh, do I now regret separating from my first serious bike, an Ital Vega 
 Super Record (1971).  Drilled out Campy Record and Candy Root Beer 531 with 
 the most beautiful lugs and filets.

 My friend rode a 55 year old Paramount.  It is a fantastic bike today as 
 our Rivendell products will be 55 years from now.

 Nevertheless, I think Sam Hillborne or Boulder All Road would fit right in 
 with these folks.  They seem to have a lot of the same spirit as the RBW 
 Owners Bunch.

 Hope you like this.

 Tom


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[RBW] Re: Yet _even more_ travel coffee questions!

[Scott Calhoun]

I find the AeroPress superb for bicycle/travel coffee. All of the pour 
overs I've tried don't keep the coffee hot enough for in the field use. I 
do wish the AeroPress came in a non-plastic version, but I honestly can't 
taste even a hint of plastic and the tiny paper filters are great and 
tasteless if rinsed first.

Scott in Tucson

On Sunday, November 23, 2014 5:16:07 PM UTC-7, David Banzer wrote:

 Roger,
 I've used the Helix dripper and was slightly disappointed. The design 
 leaves the tip of the cone pretty far into a mug, if you're making it 
 directly into it, moreso than a similar Hario dripper with the same style 
 filters. It really needs a separate pot to be made into, then poured into a 
 mug, defeating the minimalist coffee kit. If you're ok making coffee half a 
 mug at a time, it would work, or if you bring a taller mug than the typical 
 camping mug.
 While not collapsible, this looks interesting: 
 http://www.amazon.com/Hario-Paperless-Dripper-Stainless-CFOD-02/dp/B0040VIN18 
 - built in metal filter, looks like some contact with plastic though.
 Currently, I'm happy with the AeroPress, but I've been on an espresso kick 
 lately, and it makes a reasonably close version of a true espresso.
 Agree about beans being of the most important if you're after good coffee 
 flavor, and a small hand grinder would be essential.
 David
 Chicago

 On Sunday, November 23, 2014 9:38:05 AM UTC-8, Roger wrote:

 As a continuation of this last winter/spring's thread Yet more travel 
 *coffee* questions! 
 https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups#%21searchin/rbw-owners-bunch/coffee/rbw-owners-bunch/lGetc-8p6XI/ab4n60B2PwAJ,
  
 it seems the Helix Coffee Dripper 
 http://store.oceanaircycles.com/products/helix-coffee-dripper sold by 
 Ocean Air and others is coming onto the scene. Do any of us here have much 
 experience with it that they could share?

 For myself, I don't put paper or plastic into the path of my hot coffee, 
 so it would take a metal travel filter to make this filter holder happen, 
 but maybe that's available ... or tinker-able (!) Still, except for the 
 paper, I'm very intrigued by this elegant solution.



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Re: [RBW] Re: HIgh hopes on ebay

[Scott Calhoun]

I was working in Colorado this last summer and stopped into Pro's Closet. 
It is a clean little set up with tons of parts gleaned from ex-pros and the 
Boulder industry people. It's rumored they are working on a bike museum as 
well. It is located in a nondescript light industrial warehouse on the 
fringe of Boulder. Curiously, Boulder Bicycle and Mike Kone are in the same 
complex so it can make a nice trip chain. 

Scott in Tucson

On Tuesday, November 11, 2014 8:21:02 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 It's a heck of a business model, and probably something they love doing. 
 Separating fools from their money that is. But I don't see how a *buyer* 
 would not take 30 seconds and find a new Nitto stem for half of what pb is 
 selling used for. If s/he is able to take their money, all hail pb!

 I much prefer Pro's Closet out of CO: They offer excellent product, start 
 a low price, no reserve auction, and sell it at what the market determines. 
 They've established quite the reputation for quality. 

 On Tue, Nov 11, 2014 at 7:02 PM, Paul Brodek p...@skyweb.net 
 javascript: wrote:

 So I kinda know pb*bikes, we talked once, and I've seen his postings on 
 various forums. I'm familiar with his operation and the ill-will he seems 
 to generate. He hasn't appointed me as his defender, and I'm not 
 volunteering for that roll, but I will present another side of the coin.

 If you search his completed auctions and check his feedback, you will 
 find there are indeed quite a lot of buyers happy to pay his prices, and 
 happy with the value they receive. If one sleeps better thinking these 
 happy buyers are suckers or fools, so be it. Some of them may be. But the 
 reality is there are quite a few well-heeled collectors who place a premium 
 on their time, and would rather pay $500 for an NOS derailleur to finish 
 off their $15k Herse/Cinelli/whatever than spend hours on ebay trying to 
 find a clean-but-not-NOS one for less. I have customers with $50k monthly 
 budgets for their hobbies, and they don't blink plunking down their Amex 
 Centurion card for $40k worth of Leica, if Leica is what they want that 
 month. You need to charge at least $250k/yr to get an Amex Centurion card, 
 so we're talking big spenders. One guy bought a new Corvette last year with 
 his Centurion card---he wanted one, and he also wanted to see if the charge 
 would go through. It did.

 As for sourcing, pb*bikes spends a lot of time sourcing this stuff from 
 all over the world. Working the phones, traveling to check forgotten 
 warehouse lots. He's got to grade, sort and photograph his inventory, 
 handle all the auctions and fulfillment. I think he might have an employee 
 now, so he's got a salary to meet as well. It's an interesting business 
 model, he does it well and seems to enjoy it, but it doesn't look to me 
 like an easy way to make a buck.

 And yes, he is either directly or indirectly contributing to increasing 
 prices for vintage bicycle stuff. There is a finite amount of vintage 
 equipment on the planet, and as the deep pockets get the bug, prices go up. 
 Doesn't matter whether you blame the sellers or the buyers, it happens. You 
 either belly up to the bar and pay a premium, or you live without. Vintage 
 guitars, vintage audio, vintage Zippo lighters, vintage Levi's jeans, 
 vintage watches, vintage fly rods, vintage tons o' stuff---if people like 
 it and collect it, usually prices rise.

 I've never bought a single item from him, don't reckon I ever will. I 
 don't care about NOS, and even if I did, I don't have that kind of budget. 
 But I don't think the majority of his customers are ignorant or idiots, and 
 his business model doesn't upset me.

 As for filtering him out of your ebay search results, that's not hard to 
 do indirectly. You can input a price range on a search. Whatever part 
 you're looking for, set the high end of the range to whatever you think is 
 unreasonable. Then you won't see anything that'll upset you.   

 On Tuesday, November 11, 2014 2:08:27 PM UTC-5, Anton Tutter wrote:

 It really is truly amazing what he gets for his stuff when you look at 
 his sold items.  $75 for NOS Simplex pulleys??!! They're not even the fancy 
 bearing version.

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Simplex-Vintage-bicycle-Derailleur-Pulleys-/
 281326407472?pt=US_Derailleurs_Rearhash=item41805c4f30nma=truesi=
 w76z2dQWkZ8tR3W%252BVQ8Whd01vzA%253Dorig_cvip=truert=nc_trksid=
 p2047675.l2557

 I think I had box of these at some point. Dang, I could have retired!!!

 Anton


 On Tuesday, November 11, 2014 12:45:10 PM UTC-5, cyclot...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

 Go through his ebay storefront, s/he has a LOT of vintage parts for 
 sale, and what seem to be highly inflated prices. But when you look at the 
 feedback, 9,999 happy customers that seem content to pay those prices. So 
 I 
 guess s/he has figured out a pretty lucrative business model.

 On Tue, Nov 11, 2014 at 9:19 AM, hsmitham hughs...@gmail.com wrote:

 

[RBW] Re: El Tour de Tucson

[Scott Calhoun]

I've obviously mistaken you for a local orange Hillborne rider. Well, you 
should have fun here. Last year the weather was atrocious, pissing rain all 
day, but that was quite an anomaly. Have fun. If you want to do any other 
riding while your here send me a message off-list.

Scott Calhoun
Tucson, AZ

On Monday, November 3, 2014 6:37:02 AM UTC-7, Benedikt wrote:

 I'm riding the whole thing. My bike has never left Washington. Oh, wait, 
 rode it to Portland once, and to Canada but it's never been to Arizona yet 
 so you didn't take it for a spin. :)

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[RBW] Re: Wheel Stabilizer or no?

[Scott Calhoun]

I have the VO wheel stabilizer and the VO double kickstand on my porteur 
bike. They work well together. I can still tip the bike over if my front 
bag is loaded unevenly, but it doesn't happen often. I consider the 
stabilizer essential for a heavily front loaded utility bike. I agree with 
blakcloud that the clamp around the frame on the VO is ugly, I wish I had 
the braze-on on the down tube.

Scott Calhoun
Tucson, AZ

On Friday, October 31, 2014 6:19:29 PM UTC-7, blakcloud wrote:

 My first foray into a stabilizer was the Velo Orange one. It worked 
 reasonably well but you still had to be somewhat careful with heavier 
 loads. What I didn't like was the clamp around the tube, it makes the bike 
 look ugly. When I had my bikes repainted I had them braze on small clip for 
 the spring eliminating the clamp and used the rest of the parts from the 
 VO. 

 Velo Orange 
 http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/chainguards-stay-protectors-kickstands/vo-wheel-stabilizer-xl.html

 My solution https://www.flickr.com/photos/87106495@N07/12151022165/

 I do wish that my Rivendell had the small braze on, because like you I got 
 a lot of flop with Mark's Rack and Wald basket. For this bike I just use a 
 velcro pant strap, while I load the bike. 

 On another note, I asked a custom frame builder who was building porteur 
 bikes to add this braze on and he refused. He would do everything else I 
 asked for but he believed that they didn't work and he wouldn't do it, so I 
 didn't have the frame built. 






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[RBW] Re: Water (bottle) Retention

[Scott Calhoun]

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nW96PTnjnhc/VFkogLmubTI/ADo/HMW9G4ehfCU/s1600/Redline.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nW96PTnjnhc/VFkogLmubTI/ADo/HMW9G4ehfCU/s1600/Redline.jpg
I have a bunch of the 27oz Klean Kanteen bottles and I mostly like them a 
lot. As far as cages, I love the looks of the Iris and the VO Moderniste, 
and they both hold the 27oz bottles well, but I've broken several of both 
cages. They just fatigue over rough road surfaces. So, for my Mtbs, I have 
switched to Profile cages and an Arundel Looney Bin cage that I can fit a 
40oz Klean Kanteen in. Here is a photo of the set up I used for a bike 
packing tour earlier this year. The Profiles definitely aren't as pretty as 
the Iris, but they take more rough use IMO. 

Scott Calhoun
Tucson, AZ

On Tuesday, November 4, 2014 6:40:12 AM UTC-7, WETH wrote:


 Patrick, 
 I have used the 27oz Kleen Kanteen bottles for several years and like 
 them.  I have Iris cages on my Atlantis and the Kleen Kanteen plastic cages 
 on my Surly LHT: 
 http://www.kleankanteen.com/products/accessories/klean-kanteen-bike-cage.php
 I have never had a bottle fall out using either cage; both hold the 
 bottles tightly.  I personally do not like the tactile sensation or sound 
 of sliding the bottle in and out of the Iris cages, but that is my own 
 issue.  The plastic cages have been very reliable on both my bike and my 
 wife's.  None have broken; however we do not ride much below 20F.
 All the best,
 Erl

 On Tuesday, November 4, 2014 8:33:42 AM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Great to hear, Michael. Thank you. From what I've read, the 
 plastic/nylon/polyglobutinidesomesuch all break in the cold. That won't 
 work. So, as you may have seen from my wtb/wtt post, I'm switching to the 
 Iris.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Tuesday, November 4, 2014 6:01:20 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 Deacon, I have used the Kleen K. bottles for years and only remembering 
 one or two incidents of them bouncing out. Probably because I hadn't pushed 
 the bottle all the way in.  I prefer to use the small bottle on the down 
 tube and a large bottle on the seat tube.  They work fine with either the 
 Nitto or King cages.  They did not work well with the Bontrager cages which 
 came on our tandem.  The biggest problem I have encountered on rough roads 
 has been rattle between the bottle and cage.  The Nitto racks are light 
 enough to squeeze and tighten their grip.  If it really bothers you, KK 
 sells a plastic carrier that is made specifically for their bottles. I 
  tried it and found it quite functional.  KK sells a variety of tops, 
 although few stores seem to carry them.  On line you can get ones w/out the 
 loop, but in the end I have not found it to be a big deal; I just position 
 the loop in the cage so that it is away from my mouth when I lift it out. 
  No other reengineering is required.

 Michael



 On Tuesday, November 4, 2014 7:10:09 AM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Thanks, David and George. George, your suggestion reminded me I'd 
 wondered if stretching a rubber tube over a bottle might grip the Iris 
 cage, eliminate any rattle,a nd keep everything in there. H.

 I'm planning on the 27oz Kleen Kanteen widemouth. 

 With abandon,
 Patrick



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[RBW] Re: El Tour de Tucson

[Scott Calhoun]

Which distance are you doing? I've committed to volunteer at Cyclovia on 
Sunday, then I'm riding the El Grupo Gran Fondo  the week before El Tour. I 
think I remember your orange Hillborne from a Cyclovia a few years back. 
You let me take if for a spin. Beautiful bicycle.  

Scott Calhoun
Tucson, AZ

On Monday, October 27, 2014 10:21:17 PM UTC-7, Benedikt wrote:

 Anyone riding El Tour de Tucson this year? I'll be there on my orange 
 Hillborne.


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[RBW] Re: These ones go to 11, again

[Scott Calhoun]

For light and expensive wide-range cassettes (10 speed is what I usually 
run), I think the 11-36 Sram $279.00 XG-1080 is hard to beat. The machining 
is so elegant (they are machined from a single block of steel) you could 
just stare at it, but I have them on all of my off-roady type bikes and 
they have held up well. I tend to pick them up at swaps where pro mtb 
riders are jettisoning extra stuff. I've scored 3 of them for around 
40/each. They are on sale now for $189 at Outside Outfitters. 

Scott Calhoun
Tucson, AZ


On Tuesday, October 21, 2014 10:17:13 PM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:

 http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-XTR-M9000/Shimano-XTR-CS-M9000-Cassette 

 11-40! 

 May have to more seriously consider that 1x11 setup.  Well ok maybe 
 when they release a normal price version of this, that is. 

 -- 
 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 


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[RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

[Scott Calhoun]

I've got probably 4500km on my SP PV-8 and it has performed great so far. 
That said, I really don't want to tear down my wheel at 20,000kms:( To 
state the obvious, no matter how bright and economical a rechargeable 
battery light is, they all have the same downside: you have to remember to 
charge them. When I need my lights, I really need them, and I need them for 
the whole trip home. For me, the lack of worrying about charging, mounting, 
and re-mounting lights, is worth the price of even the most expensive 
dynamos. For me, it's about the freedom to go wherever I want, and stay as 
late as I want, and having a dynamo has increased the number of trips I 
make on my bike 2 fold. Summer night riding in Tucson is so nice. My dynamo 
set-ups are my most valuable components--I don't consider them an 
accessories. That said, if you are disciplined about recharging, you might 
be a good candidate for USB lights. I'm not. 

Scott Calhoun
Tucson, AZ

On Friday, October 3, 2014 10:56:16 PM UTC-7, hangtownmatt wrote:

 Wayne,

 I'd like to add a third reason:

 3.  They are not user serviceable.  Here's what I found on the Shutter 
 Precision FAQ:

 *How often do SP hub dynamos require service?*
 SP hub dynamos employ sealed bearings that do not require service until 
 the bearings are require replacement. We already have customers that have 
 logged over 10,000 kms without any problems and we expect that under normal 
 use the service life of these bearings should be well over 20,000 kms. 
 Should they ever need servicing, they can be sent back to SP and replaced 
 with new ones for roughly USD 30 including the cost of return postage.

 *Are SP hub dynamos user serviceable?*
 Alas, SP hub dynamos are *not* user serviceable and indeed we are aware 
 of no hub dynamos that are based on manufacturer’s recommendations. *Any 
 attempt to service a SP hub dynamo will **void its two-year warranty* 
 http://www.sp-dynamo.com/Support.html*.* We have received quite a 
 number of requests from consumers on how they might service their hubs even 
 accepting that attempting to do so would void their two-year warranty. They 
 accept this risk thinking that this would save the need to disassemble and 
 rebuild the wheel. Unfortunately, the design of SP hub dynamos like that of 
 many other brands requires disassembly of the wheel for bearing 
 replacement. Furthermore, the delicate generator mechanism housed within 
 the hub body must be re-calibrated to tolerances of less than a millimetre 
 each time bearings are replaced. Failure to carry out this operation 
 properly (which is likely without expert knowledge, experience and tools), 
 will generally result in catastrophic failure of the generator mechanism 
 after a period of use. SP engineers have considered making their hubs user 
 serviceable (with much prodding from IDC at the behest of our technically 
 savvy testers). But the expertise and equipment required to carry out 
 recalibration of the generator mechanism each time the bearings are 
 replaced presents a technical hurdle that SP engineers, and indeed all 
 other hub dynamo manufacturers we are aware of, have so far declined to 
 attempt.


 Did you catch the part about having to disassemble the wheel in order to 
 replace the bearings!  20,00kms is roughly 12,000 miles.  So every 12,000 
 miles you need to tear down your wheel, ship it off for new bearings, pay 
 $30 + return shipping, and than rebuild your wheel.

 WOW.  That combined with the initial buy-in makes dynamos a pretty 
 expensive proposition.  I suppose if you really need it than there is no 
 substitute.  But by comparison, just tonight, I replaced the original 
 lithium-ion rechargeable battery in my USB-charged NiteRider Cordless 600 
 for a total cost of $10.99. This light was purchased in 8/2011.  I use it 
 light 5 days-a-week, year round on my early morning commute.  With an 
 initial cost of $108 it has proved to be a pretty good value.

 Matt




  

 On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 10:11:18 AM UTC-7, Wayne Mesard wrote:

 I'd like to anti-recommend the dynohub approach. I considered it when 
 building my Sam, but rejected it for a couple of reasons:

 1. They're expensive!
 2. You pay the wattage tax whether you're using the thing or not. The 
 Interwebs say that the drag costs anywhere from 2 to 15 watts of additional 
 pedal power. That's not a lot. But it's not nothing either.

 Instead, I bought a USB battery (
 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IP1MQNK/), which I'm quite happy 
 with. That way I have backup power for all my devices, since they all 
 accept USB power (front and rear lights, GPS, cell phone, AfterShokz 
 headphones). With the money I saved, I could have bought five of them, but 
 one was more than enough.

 On my most recent tour, I had no problem keeping the battery charged by 
 plugging it in overnight and opportunistically at lunch stops. But just to 
 be safe, I also got a solar panel (
 http://www.amazon.com

Re: [RBW] Re: Microshift thumbies?

[Scott Calhoun]

I ran the silver 9-speed Microshift thumb shifters on my MTB for two 
seasons. The machining and quality of the clamp and levers is very nice and 
they are a pleasure to look at. Mine were the index-only option and I 
bought them from the cheapest Taiwanese source on Ebay. I also have heard 
about the Surlys with the friction option but have never seen them in 
person. A couple of observations:

On rough trails, the indexing stops were kind of light and I would 
sometimes accidentally bump the right shifter with my knuckle and shift 
when I didn't want to. Also, I was coming from using the newest XT and Sram 
x-9 speed shifters and I was surprised at how when I switched to the 
Microshift, my right thumb would get really sore after a Mt. ride from all 
of the shifting. The ergonomics, that is, not having to lift your thumb 
over the grip and bar to shift, are IMHO is vastly better on the newest 
XT/XTR shifters. I know this is a very un-rivish opinion. I say this in 
regards to mountain biking where you are having to shift a lot quickly and 
in technical situations. I also say this as someone who used Suntour XC Pro 
thumb shifters for many years of riding.

That said, I would happily put the Microshift thumb shifters on any 
all-arounder or city bike without hesitation. Maybe approaching 50, my 
thumbs aren't what they used to be. Suggestions for strengthening my 
thumbs? Perhaps mounting tires on A23 rims each night? 

Scott Calhoun
Tucson, Arizona

On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 10:37:36 PM UTC-7, Daniel M wrote:

 My understanding is that the Microshifts are index-only (no friction 
 option as with the Shimano / Thumbie option), but that the proprietary ones 
 that come on Surlys (but are not sold separately) do have the friction 
 option. Can anyone confirm or deny all or part of this?

 Daniel M
 Berkeley, CA

 P.S. I particularly love it when using the Microsoft shifters and I need 
 to up or downshift, so I push or pull the lever, nothing happens, I push or 
 pull it further in the same direction, then the shifter turns into a 
 spinning blue wheel for a minute, and then later I get the entire sequence 
 of shifts all at once at a completely inappropriate time.


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[RBW] FS: 57cm Velo Orange Campeur; 54cm Moser Leader AX; 16.5 Breezer Lightening

[Scott Calhoun]

 

FS: 57cm Velo Orange Campeur, 59cm Surly Steamroller; 54cm Moser Leader AX, 
16.5” Breezer Lightening 

 

At my spouses gentle, and not so gentle urging, it is time to let go of 
some really great steel frames. I had big dreams for these frames, but a 
garage remodel means I must part with these darlings. There are all Arizona 
bikes with no rust whatsoever. I think my prices are fair, but if you must 
bargain, then do.

 

So, here they are. All prices include shipping to the CON-US. 

 

NIB 57cm Velo Orange Campeur frameset. Great all-arounder frame with almost 
every imaginable braze-on that can be used for touring and about anything 
else you can ask of a bike. It is just like new, but I did install, and 
then remove a headset. It will be shipped in the original Velo Orange box 
with the original packaging. Specs and geometry here: 
http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/frames/vo-campeur-frame.html $425 
PRICE DROP: $375

 

Lightly Used 59cm Surly Steamroller single speed frameset. Nice ivory 
“Creamroller” color. 587mm toptube. 835mm standover. Includes Cane Creek 
(S-9 I think) 1/1/8” threadless headset. Some normal wear from locking, but 
no dents.Lovely riding tough frame that gets lots of compliments around 
town. SOLD

 

90s 54cm Moser AX Silver Filet Brazed Racing Frameset. This is a 
super-racy, Ferrrari of a bike. It is made from ultra light thin-walled 
Oria tubing and has fantastic looking chrome work on the seat and chain 
stays as well as the inside of the fork blades. It has Shimano dropouts, 
including really unusual semi-vertical rears with adjustment screws. Unlike 
the examples you see on Ebay from Poland and Hungary that have seen hard 
use, this bike has never raced or wrecked, I bought the frame from its 
original elderly owner. Some wear and a few spots that have been touched 
up, but otherwise perfect. This frame was designed to use an expensive 
Campy quill seatpost, but it was professionally modified to accept a 
standard 27.2 seatpost. It is lighter than any other steel frame I own (I 
don’t have a scale, but it feels light). I’d call it an 8.5/10.  130mm rear 
spacing. 54cm tt (ctc), 54cm st (ctc), 58cm st (ctt). I’m including a Campy 
Record 111mm BB for a triple. It is Italian threaded. $475 PRICE DROP: $365

 

16.5” MUSA Breezer Lightening Mountain Bike Frameset. In a lot of ways, 
this light and thin-walled tubeset rides like my old MB-Zip. The fork is an 
original Spinner and the color combination is a classic black and ivory. 
The frame has a few spots that have been touched up and a couple of small 
dents, but it is straight and sound. 26” wheels, canti posts, 135 qr rear, 
100mm qr front. Effective top tube is somewhere around 56-57cm. 1 1/8” 
steerer. Bars, stem, and Chris King Headset in photos not included. $300 
PRICE DROP: $250

 

Photos available here:  
https://www.flickr.com/photos/scalhoun/sets/72157647743760611/

P.S. Depending on how spousal negotiations go, I’ll may be posting a few 
more steel frames and some Campy 9 and 10speed components early next week. 

Please respond off-list. Thanks,

 

Scott Calhoun

Tucson, Arizona

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Re: [RBW] FS: 57cm Velo Orange Campeur, 59cm Surly Steamroller; 54cm Moser Leader AX, 16.5 Breezer Lightening

[Scott Calhoun]

Peter, 

I agree with you about the Breezer. I've always wanted one of the Breezers 
with this color combo. I planned on building this up for my daughter, but 
she grew up moved to Europe before I finished the project. Well, at least I 
did finish a Reparto Corse Bianchi for her that we got to ride together 
before she moved...


On Friday, September 19, 2014 10:59:00 AM UTC-7, Peter M wrote:

 Great bikes, I love the Breezer! Only 3 sizes too small, haha! 
 On Sep 19, 2014 1:56 PM, Scott Calhoun sc...@zonagardens.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 At my spouses gentle, and not so gentle urging, it is time to let go of 
 some really great steel frames. I had big dreams for these frames, but a 
 garage remodel means I must part with these darlings. There are all Arizona 
 bikes with no rust whatsoever. I think my prices are fair, but if you must 
 bargain, then do.

  

 So, here they are. All prices include shipping to the CON-US. 

  

 NIB 57cm Velo Orange Campeur frameset. Great all-arounder frame with 
 almost every imaginable braze-on that can be used for touring and about 
 anything else you can ask of a bike. It is just like new, but I did 
 install, and then remove a headset. It will be shipped in the original Velo 
 Orange box with the original packaging. Specs and geometry here: 
 http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/frames/vo-campeur-frame.html $425

  

 Lightly Used 59cm Surly Steamroller single speed frameset. Nice ivory 
 “Creamroller” color. 587mm toptube. 835mm standover. Includes Cane Creek 
 (S-9 I think) 1/1/8” threadless headset. Some normal wear from locking, but 
 no dents.Lovely riding tough frame that gets lots of compliments around 
 town. $290 

  

 90s 54cm Moser AX Silver Filet Brazed Racing Frameset. This is a 
 super-racy, Ferrrari of a bike. It is made from ultra light thin-walled 
 Oria tubing and has fantastic looking chrome work on the seat and chain 
 stays as well as the inside of the fork blades. It has Shimano dropouts, 
 including really unusual semi-vertical rears with adjustment screws. Unlike 
 the examples you see on Ebay from Poland and Hungary that have seen hard 
 use, this bike has never raced or wrecked, I bought the frame from its 
 original elderly owner. Some wear and a few spots that have been touched 
 up, but otherwise perfect. This frame was designed to use an expensive 
 Campy quill seatpost, but it was professionally modified to accept a 
 standard 27.2 seatpost. It is lighter than any other steel frame I own (I 
 don’t have a scale, but it feels light). I’d call it an 8.5/10.  130mm rear 
 spacing. 54cm tt (ctc), 54cm st (ctc), 58cm st (ctt). I’m including a Campy 
 Record 111mm BB for a triple. It is Italian threaded. Record headset in 
 photos not included. $475

  

 16.5” MUSA Breezer Lightening Mountain Bike Frameset. In a lot of ways, 
 this light and thin-walled tubeset rides like my old MB-Zip. The fork is an 
 original Spinner and the color combination is a classic black and ivory. 
 The frame has a few spots that have been touched up and a couple of small 
 dents, but it is straight and sound. 26” wheels, canti posts, 135 qr rear, 
 100mm qr front. Effective top tube is somewhere around 56-57cm. 1 1/8” 
 steerer. Bars, stem, and Chris King Headset in photos not included. $300

  

 Photos available here:  
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/scalhoun/sets/72157647743760611/

 P.S. I've also posted this to the IBob list. Depending on how spousal 
 negotiations go, I may be posting a few more steel frames and some Campy 9 
 and 10speed components early next week. 

 Please respond off-list. Thanks,

  

 Scott Calhoun

 Tucson, Arizona
  
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[RBW] FS: 57cm Velo Orange Campeur, 59cm Surly Steamroller; 54cm Moser Leader AX, 16.5 Breezer Lightening

[Scott Calhoun]

 

At my spouses gentle, and not so gentle urging, it is time to let go of 
some really great steel frames. I had big dreams for these frames, but a 
garage remodel means I must part with these darlings. There are all Arizona 
bikes with no rust whatsoever. I think my prices are fair, but if you must 
bargain, then do.

 

So, here they are. All prices include shipping to the CON-US. 

 

NIB 57cm Velo Orange Campeur frameset. Great all-arounder frame with almost 
every imaginable braze-on that can be used for touring and about anything 
else you can ask of a bike. It is just like new, but I did install, and 
then remove a headset. It will be shipped in the original Velo Orange box 
with the original packaging. Specs and geometry here: 
http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/frames/vo-campeur-frame.html $425

 

Lightly Used 59cm Surly Steamroller single speed frameset. Nice ivory 
“Creamroller” color. 587mm toptube. 835mm standover. Includes Cane Creek 
(S-9 I think) 1/1/8” threadless headset. Some normal wear from locking, but 
no dents.Lovely riding tough frame that gets lots of compliments around 
town. $290 

 

90s 54cm Moser AX Silver Filet Brazed Racing Frameset. This is a 
super-racy, Ferrrari of a bike. It is made from ultra light thin-walled 
Oria tubing and has fantastic looking chrome work on the seat and chain 
stays as well as the inside of the fork blades. It has Shimano dropouts, 
including really unusual semi-vertical rears with adjustment screws. Unlike 
the examples you see on Ebay from Poland and Hungary that have seen hard 
use, this bike has never raced or wrecked, I bought the frame from its 
original elderly owner. Some wear and a few spots that have been touched 
up, but otherwise perfect. This frame was designed to use an expensive 
Campy quill seatpost, but it was professionally modified to accept a 
standard 27.2 seatpost. It is lighter than any other steel frame I own (I 
don’t have a scale, but it feels light). I’d call it an 8.5/10.  130mm rear 
spacing. 54cm tt (ctc), 54cm st (ctc), 58cm st (ctt). I’m including a Campy 
Record 111mm BB for a triple. It is Italian threaded. Record headset in 
photos not included. $475

 

16.5” MUSA Breezer Lightening Mountain Bike Frameset. In a lot of ways, 
this light and thin-walled tubeset rides like my old MB-Zip. The fork is an 
original Spinner and the color combination is a classic black and ivory. 
The frame has a few spots that have been touched up and a couple of small 
dents, but it is straight and sound. 26” wheels, canti posts, 135 qr rear, 
100mm qr front. Effective top tube is somewhere around 56-57cm. 1 1/8” 
steerer. Bars, stem, and Chris King Headset in photos not included. $300

 

Photos available here:  
https://www.flickr.com/photos/scalhoun/sets/72157647743760611/

P.S. I've also posted this to the IBob list. Depending on how spousal 
negotiations go, I may be posting a few more steel frames and some Campy 9 
and 10speed components early next week. 

Please respond off-list. Thanks,

 

Scott Calhoun

Tucson, Arizona

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[RBW] Rivish Parts for Sale Update

[Scott Calhoun]

Thanks for the great response. Many items have sold quickly. I took a big 
stack of boxes to the post office today. I think my prices are pretty fair, 
considering I'm including shipping on most things, but If there is 
something you see that you are interested in (especially the frames), feel 
free to make me a reasonable offer. I'm liking not having to deal with ebay.

Here is an update with SOLD next to the items that are gone:

*Framesets*

 

1986 Team Fuji Frameset 52cm. Immaculate condition (9.5/10), blue and 
yellow paint. Chrome fork crown. Lugged and made from Val-Lite 9658 
Quad-butted tubing (I think made by Ishiwata). Includes fluted seatpost, 
headset, and Suntour Sprint Front Derailleur and BB. $170

 

1982 Trek 950 62cm Frameset. Great condition (8/10), original paint, silver 
with blue panels, Columbus SL tubing, Cinelli lugs and Campagnolo dropouts. 
A very small patch of surface rust where the paint is chipped on the fork, 
but could easily be touched up. Includes frame and fork. $300.00 or offer

 

1985 Trek 400 (22.5” or 57cm) True Temper Tubing. New mat celeste green 
powdercoat with gold lug-lining. Frame aligned and rear cold-set to 130mm 
spacing. All ready for components. $80.00 plus shipping.

 

Surly Long Haul Trucker 60cm, Truckacinno color. Purchased to build up for 
cross-country touring but never got to it. I will ship it in original box 
with original packing materials. Includes frame, fork, and an installed 
top-of-the-line Cane Creek sealed bearing headset ($120 new). $425.00 or 
offer

 

Velo Orange Rando 61cm. Powder-coated Bengal Silver (I didn’t like the 
stock VO purple blue) never built up. I will ship it in its original box 
and packaging. I have a set of new Velo Orange decals that can send with 
the bike. I paid $145 for the professional powder-coating job. Includes 
frame, fork, and a velo orange front rack (the fork has hourglass braze-ons 
that fit the rack perfectly). $500.00 or offer

 

 

*Cranksets*

 

Campagnolo Mirage 172.5 compact (34/50) double crankset. Black, square 
taper, 9 speed, 110bcd with matching Miche English thread 68mm x 110 bottom 
bracket. Both new, never used, in original boxes. $60.00

 

Campagnolo Record 170mm double crankset (53/39). Silver, square taper 10 
speed. New, never used, in original box. $100.00 SOLD

 

Campagnolo Daytona 172.5mm double crankset (53/39). Silver, square taper, 9 
speed, with matching Campagnolo 68mm x 110mm English threaded bottom 
bracket. Used but in excellent shape. $85.00

 

Sugino XD2 175mm triple crankset (48/36/26). Silver, square taper, new in 
original box. I’ll include a matching Shimano UN-71 bottom bracket (the BB 
is used but works great). Both for $80.00 SOLD

 

Sugino XD2 175mm, double crankset (48/34). Silver, square taper, new in 
original box. $70.00

 

Sugino AT 175mm triple crankset (50/42/28). Mid-80s vintage, came off a 
Fuji Supreme Touring IV. Some wear, but in overall great shape. $25.00

 

SR Super Custom 170mm double crankset (52/40). Early 80s vintage, came off 
a Trek 613. Some wear, but in very good shape. $20.00

 

*Shifters/Brifters*

 

Campagnolo Daytona 9 speed Shifters/ Brake Levers, post 2003. Beautiful, 
silver, used but in excellent shape. $130.00

 

Shimano Bar-end 9speed (2 pairs) shifters. Index or friction. Silver, used, 
but in good working order. $70.00 (each)

 

Shimano 600 SL-6208 downtube index shifters. Used, but in nearly new shape 
$15. 

 

Paul Thumbies, black, new in original packaging. $50.00 SOLD

 

Silver Shifters, friction, new from Rivendell, never installed, in original 
plastic wrap. These have the new more UV resistant washers. $45. SOLD

 

Suntour BL “Blue Line” Friction downtube shifters from the early 80s. Used, 
but in great shape. These have their own clamp and don’t require shifter 
braze-ons. $10. 

 

*Brakes/Brake Levers (Excluding Brifters)*

 

Campagnolo Daytona, front and rear road caliper brakeset. Dual-pivot, 
silver, used, but in very nice shape $40.00 for t

 

Origin 8 Campy copy (made by Tektro) Pro Force Aero road levers. Silver 
levers with black hoods. I have two pairs, both new in their original 
boxes. $20.00 each.

 

Suntour Sprint Front and rear single pivot caliper road brakes. Silver. 
Excellent shape $20.

 

Shimano Ultegra Front and Rear single pivot caliper road brakes. These are 
from the late 80s, charcoal with the tri-color Ultegra logo. Great shape $25

 

Tektro CR720 Cantilever Brakes Front and Rear. Silver. New, never installed 
in original packaging. $20

 

Diacompe 558 “G” Caliper Brakeset. Used, Early 80s vintage. Great shape. $10

 

*Rear Derailleurs *

 

Shimano 600 Rear-RD-6208. Short cage. Mid-80s. Used, but very clean, great 
shape. $20

 

Campagnolo Daytona 9 Speed. Short cage. Used, but in good shape. A few 
small scratches, but functionally fine. $30

 

Shimano XT RD-M760 long cage. Low-normal. New, with new silver alloy 
pulleys. Excellent for pairing with bar-end Shimano 

[RBW] Re: Rivish Parts For Sale

[Scott Calhoun]

Update:

Sugino XD2 Triple SOLD
IRD Alpina-D SOLD
Paul Thumbies SOLD

On Sunday, August 12, 2012 12:00:49 PM UTC-7, Scott Calhoun wrote:

 A dead air conditioner, dying water heater, and a kid's college tuition 
 have conspired to make me let go of some frames and parts I've been 
 collecting and holding onto for bike building projects. My spouse somehow 
 feels that cool indoor air and hot water are more important than my bicycle 
 projects:)

 Before I put the stuff on fleabay, I thought I'd give fellow Riv Owner's 
 Bunchers first crack at it. The prices I've listed include shipping to the 
 continental U.S. (except where noted). I'm in Tucson, Arizona (so yeah, the 
 AC is kinda essential). I also welcome local pickup. I can accept Paypal. 
 Sorry about the length of the list. It was more than I thought. Gulp. I'm 
 happy to email photos. Just shoot me an email with the item(s) you would 
 like pictures of. 

 *Framesets*

  

 1986 Team Fuji Frameset 52cm. Immaculate condition (9.5/10), blue and 
 yellow paint. Chrome fork crown. Lugged and made from Val-Lite 9658 
 Quad-butted tubing (I think made by Ishiwata). Includes fluted seatpost, 
 headset, and Suntour Sprint Front Derailleur and BB. $170

  

 1982 Trek 950 62cm Frameset. Great condition (8/10), original paint, 
 silver with blue panels, Columbus SL tubing, Cinelli lugs and Campagnolo 
 dropouts. A very small patch of surface rust where the paint is chipped on 
 the fork, but could easily be touched up. Includes frame and fork. $300.00

  

 1985 Trek 400 (22.5” or 57cm) True Temper Tubing. New mat celeste green 
 powdercoat with gold lug-lining. Frame aligned and rear cold-set to 130mm 
 spacing. All ready for components. $80.00 plus shipping.

  

 Surly Long Haul Trucker 60cm, Truckacinno color. Purchased to build up for 
 cross-country touring but never got to it. I will ship it in original box 
 with original packing materials. Includes frame, fork, and an installed 
 top-of-the-line Cane Creek sealed bearing headset ($120 new). $425.00

  

 Velo Orange Rando 61cm. Powder-coated Bengal Silver (I didn’t like the 
 stock VO purple blue) never built up. I will ship it in its original box 
 and packaging. I have a set of new Velo Orange decals that can send with 
 the bike. I paid $145 for the professional powder-coating job. Includes 
 frame, fork, and a velo orange front rack (the fork has hourglass braze-ons 
 that fit the rack perfectly). $500.00

  

  

 *Cranksets*

  

 Campagnolo Mirage 172.5 compact (34/50) double crankset. Black, square 
 taper, 9 speed, 110bcd with matching Miche English thread 68mm x 110 bottom 
 bracket. Both new, never used, in original boxes. $60.00

  

 Campagnolo Record 170mm double crankset (53/39). Silver, square taper 10 
 speed. New, never used, in original box. $100.00

  

 Campagnolo Daytona 172.5mm double crankset (53/39). Silver, square taper, 
 9 speed, with matching Campagnolo 68mm x 110mm English threaded bottom 
 bracket. Used but in excellent shape. $85.00

  

 Sugino XD2 175mm triple crankset (48/36/26). Silver, square taper, new in 
 original box. I’ll include a matching Shimano UN-71 bottom bracket (the BB 
 is used but works great). Both for $80.00

  

 Sugino XD2 175mm, double crankset (48/34). Silver, square taper, new in 
 original box. $70.00

  

 Sugino AT 175mm triple crankset (50/42/28). Mid-80s vintage, came off a 
 Fuji Supreme Touring IV. Some wear, but in overall great shape. $25.00

  

 SR Super Custom 170mm double crankset (52/40). Early 80s vintage, came off 
 a Trek 613. Some wear, but in very good shape. $20.00

  

 *Shifters/Brifters*

  

 Campagnolo Daytona 9 speed Shifters/ Brake Levers, post 2003. Beautiful, 
 silver, used but in excellent shape. $130.00

  

 Shimano Bar-end 9speed (2 pairs) shifters. Index or friction. Silver, 
 used, but in good working order. $70.00 (each)

  

 Shimano 600 SL-6208 downtube index shifters. Used, but in nearly new shape 
 $15. 

  

 Paul Thumbies, black, new in original packaging. $50.00

  

 Silver Shifters, friction, new from Rivendell, never installed, in 
 original plastic wrap. These have the new more UV resistant washers. $45.

  

 Suntour BL “Blue Line” Friction downtube shifters from the early 80s. 
 Used, but in great shape. These have their own clamp and don’t require 
 shifter braze-ons. $10. 

  

 *Brakes/Brake Levers (Excluding Brifters)*

  

 Campagnolo Daytona, front and rear road caliper brakeset. Dual-pivot, 
 silver, used, but in very nice shape $40.00 for t

  

 Origin 8 Campy copy (made by Tektro) Pro Force Aero road levers. Silver 
 levers with black hoods. I have two pairs, both new in their original 
 boxes. $20.00 each.

  

 Suntour Sprint Front and rear single pivot caliper road brakes. Silver. 
 Excellent shape $20.

  

 Shimano Ultegra Front and Rear single pivot caliper road brakes. These are 
 from the late 80s, charcoal with the tri-color Ultegra logo. Great shape $25

  

 Tektro CR720

[RBW] Rivish Parts For Sale

[Scott Calhoun]

A dead air conditioner, dying water heater, and a kid's college tuition 
have conspired to make me let go of some frames and parts I've been 
collecting and holding onto for bike building projects. My spouse somehow 
feels that cool indoor air and hot water are more important than my bicycle 
projects:)

Before I put the stuff on fleabay, I thought I'd give fellow Riv Owner's 
Bunchers first crack at it. The prices I've listed include shipping to the 
continental U.S. (except where noted). I'm in Tucson, Arizona (so yeah, the 
AC is kinda essential). I also welcome local pickup. I can accept Paypal. 
Sorry about the length of the list. It was more than I thought. Gulp. I'm 
happy to email photos. Just shoot me an email with the item(s) you would 
like pictures of. 

*Framesets*

 

1986 Team Fuji Frameset 52cm. Immaculate condition (9.5/10), blue and 
yellow paint. Chrome fork crown. Lugged and made from Val-Lite 9658 
Quad-butted tubing (I think made by Ishiwata). Includes fluted seatpost, 
headset, and Suntour Sprint Front Derailleur and BB. $170

 

1982 Trek 950 62cm Frameset. Great condition (8/10), original paint, silver 
with blue panels, Columbus SL tubing, Cinelli lugs and Campagnolo dropouts. 
A very small patch of surface rust where the paint is chipped on the fork, 
but could easily be touched up. Includes frame and fork. $300.00

 

1985 Trek 400 (22.5” or 57cm) True Temper Tubing. New mat celeste green 
powdercoat with gold lug-lining. Frame aligned and rear cold-set to 130mm 
spacing. All ready for components. $80.00 plus shipping.

 

Surly Long Haul Trucker 60cm, Truckacinno color. Purchased to build up for 
cross-country touring but never got to it. I will ship it in original box 
with original packing materials. Includes frame, fork, and an installed 
top-of-the-line Cane Creek sealed bearing headset ($120 new). $425.00

 

Velo Orange Rando 61cm. Powder-coated Bengal Silver (I didn’t like the 
stock VO purple blue) never built up. I will ship it in its original box 
and packaging. I have a set of new Velo Orange decals that can send with 
the bike. I paid $145 for the professional powder-coating job. Includes 
frame, fork, and a velo orange front rack (the fork has hourglass braze-ons 
that fit the rack perfectly). $500.00

 

 

*Cranksets*

 

Campagnolo Mirage 172.5 compact (34/50) double crankset. Black, square 
taper, 9 speed, 110bcd with matching Miche English thread 68mm x 110 bottom 
bracket. Both new, never used, in original boxes. $60.00

 

Campagnolo Record 170mm double crankset (53/39). Silver, square taper 10 
speed. New, never used, in original box. $100.00

 

Campagnolo Daytona 172.5mm double crankset (53/39). Silver, square taper, 9 
speed, with matching Campagnolo 68mm x 110mm English threaded bottom 
bracket. Used but in excellent shape. $85.00

 

Sugino XD2 175mm triple crankset (48/36/26). Silver, square taper, new in 
original box. I’ll include a matching Shimano UN-71 bottom bracket (the BB 
is used but works great). Both for $80.00

 

Sugino XD2 175mm, double crankset (48/34). Silver, square taper, new in 
original box. $70.00

 

Sugino AT 175mm triple crankset (50/42/28). Mid-80s vintage, came off a 
Fuji Supreme Touring IV. Some wear, but in overall great shape. $25.00

 

SR Super Custom 170mm double crankset (52/40). Early 80s vintage, came off 
a Trek 613. Some wear, but in very good shape. $20.00

 

*Shifters/Brifters*

 

Campagnolo Daytona 9 speed Shifters/ Brake Levers, post 2003. Beautiful, 
silver, used but in excellent shape. $130.00

 

Shimano Bar-end 9speed (2 pairs) shifters. Index or friction. Silver, used, 
but in good working order. $70.00 (each)

 

Shimano 600 SL-6208 downtube index shifters. Used, but in nearly new shape 
$15. 

 

Paul Thumbies, black, new in original packaging. $50.00

 

Silver Shifters, friction, new from Rivendell, never installed, in original 
plastic wrap. These have the new more UV resistant washers. $45.

 

Suntour BL “Blue Line” Friction downtube shifters from the early 80s. Used, 
but in great shape. These have their own clamp and don’t require shifter 
braze-ons. $10. 

 

*Brakes/Brake Levers (Excluding Brifters)*

 

Campagnolo Daytona, front and rear road caliper brakeset. Dual-pivot, 
silver, used, but in very nice shape $40.00 for t

 

Origin 8 Campy copy (made by Tektro) Pro Force Aero road levers. Silver 
levers with black hoods. I have two pairs, both new in their original 
boxes. $20.00 each.

 

Suntour Sprint Front and rear single pivot caliper road brakes. Silver. 
Excellent shape $20.

 

Shimano Ultegra Front and Rear single pivot caliper road brakes. These are 
from the late 80s, charcoal with the tri-color Ultegra logo. Great shape $25

 

Tektro CR720 Cantilever Brakes (Pair). Silver. New, never installed in 
original packaging. $20

 

Diacompe 558 “G” Caliper Brakeset. Used, Early 80s vintage. Great shape. $10

 

Rear Derailleurs 

 

Shimano 600 Rear-RD-6208. Short cage. Mid-80s. 

[RBW] Re: Interesting blog entry (and comments/replies) from Jan Heine's blog

[Scott Calhoun]

I agree with Jim's comments. My daily rider is lugged early 80's True True 
Temper frame with a modern drive 9 speed drive train (with the exception of 
Silver dt shifters) and brakes. I love it dearly, at least in part  because 
I resurrected the frame from the waste bin, but also because my old Trek 
does a lot of things well. However, when I participate in my neighborhood 
fast group ride (guys on Moots titanium, Pinarello carbon, etc., sporting 
high-dollar wheelsets), I struggle mightily to keep up. My fitness is equal 
to or greater than most of my fellow riders, but when I'm peddling a bike 7 
to 10 lbs heavier than my companions, with perfectly good, but slower 
wheels and tires, I'm gonna get dropped at some point on the ride. I liken 
it to showing up to an SCCA event comprised of Lotus Elises in a '65 
Mustang. So, because I like to go fast, and hang with my friends, I have a 
bike that does that too. And it is thoroughly modern in nearly every way.  

Scott Calhoun
Tucson, Arizona

On Monday, August 6, 2012 11:00:33 AM UTC-7, Jim Cloud wrote:

 I'm in agreement with Jim Thill and Robert Zeidler on this.  There's 
 been an interesting thread going on the Classics Rendezvous Google 
 Group (Doing things the old fashioned way... - 

 http://groups.google.com/group/classic-rendezvous-lightweight-vintage-bicycles/browse_thread/thread/a0388964638f7ad3/4571c40974ec8067)
  

 with some very active participation by some who have been builders and 
 designers of bikes since the 1970's (Jim Merz, Richard Sachs).  I 
 would characterize those posts as bicycle design progress did not 
 freeze either with the classic Campy NR/SR racing bike era or the 
 French Constructeur touring bike. 

 I find some of the various modern Constructeur bikes, built with 
 French components from the 1960-1970's (e.g. Mafac brakes, Simplex 
 derailleurs, T.A. or Rene Herse modern manufacture cranks), to be a 
 little strange.  Richard Sachs once characterized the modern 
 infatuation with the French Constructeur era bike, as the end-point of 
 touring bike design, as being in the vein of Civil War enactors.  He 
 also made the point that most of the riders in the top finishing group 
 of classic brevets, such as the P-B-P are not riding bikes that evoke 
 the Rene Herse or Alex Singer randonneur bikes of the past - they're 
 riding modern carbon fiber frame bikes.  I think this was a valid 
 observation. 

 Jim Cloud 
 Tucson, AZ 

 On Aug 6, 8:51 am, robert zeidler zeidler.rob...@gmail.com wrote: 
  Well said Jim. 
  
  I think BQ is an excellent publication, particularly the accounts of 
  rides/events. 
  
  I enjoy the product reviews-sometimes.  But the rest?  Sometimes I don't 
 know. 
  
  He seems to have gotten away from the everything not made by the 
  classic French builders-which by the way you probably never get your 
  hands on-is somehow/way inferior thing, but the various tests of tire 
  rolling resistance, etc., are akin to a high school science project 
  while others have the appearance of being self-serving whether they 
  are or not. 
  
  For example, there was a recent custom build for a 6'4 rider.  He was 
  put on a 59cm w/ 171mm cranks?  Sorry, I'm not buying it. 
  
  Or the endless opinion that fatter tires are every bit as fast as 
  skinny tires.  No way.  More comfortable? Absolutely. Better on dirt? 
  For sure.  Not faster.  If that were the case, does anyone believe 
  that the entire bicycle, and tire industry would not jump at the task 
  to supply the entire racing/fast recreational community with new 
  frames and rubber?  Come on all you anti-corporate people out there, 
  of course they would! 
  
  Lastly, a bike with a big square box-shaped bag is more aero than a 
  non-bag equipped bike? Maybe if Cadel evans had installed one in the 
  Tour, he would've narrowed the gap in that crucial time trial. 
  
  Again, a great publication that I look fwd to each and every month. 
  
  RGZ 
  
  On Mon, Aug 6, 2012 at 10:41 AM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  thill@gmail.com wrote: 
   I commend Jan for following his passion and making a very welcome 
 business out of it. I'd urge every interested person to read his blog and 
 his paper publication and carefully consider what he and his contributors 
 have written. 
  
   But after that, take what has been written with a grain of salt. I 
 promise that every one of Jan's opinions is perfectly true - for Jan, for 
 today. Some others may share aspects of Jan's body type, riding style, 
 personality, or general preferences, and some chords may ring true. But for 
 others, there's no need to wear Jan's clothes if they don't fit. 
  
   I'm thinking of commuters and recreational riders who ride 6000+ miles 
 per year on, say, a tire that Jan didn't review favorably or on a bike that 
 doesn't have Jan's optimal steering geometry (i.e. most bikes). I'm 
 thinking of people who ride relatively slowly for an hour or two