Re: [RBW] Homer 6 months review and questions

[Steve Cole]

Deepak,
What a wonderful ride.  I have both a Homer (Toyo) and an Atlantis (MIT). 
 I love them both.  First, I wonder whether the under-25 pounds figures you 
have seen are for Toyo (1st gen) or Waterford (2nd gen) Homers.  They had 
different geometry and used different tubes that may explain the gap 
between your 28# and the 25# yo've seen.  

Second, I often think about replying to questions about how one might cut 
the weight of their bike but have never replied.  I strongly believe how 
one builds their bike, the components they select, should reflect its 
intended primary use.  If going as fast as you can (e.g., racing) is 
paramount, cutting weight without sacrificing strength, handling or safety 
is sensible.  On the other hand, as is the case for me, if you ride for 
exercise, fun and health, I can't think of a good reason to look for ways 
to pare the bike's weight.  How much bike/rider weight you push around, as 
Grant Peterson has noted, is mostly a reflection of the rider's weight even 
in your case. In addition, pushing around a  25# bike is a weight savings 
to you of only about 1.5% of total (bike+rider) weight.  While this is 
pretty negligible, the added weight should be better for health, strength, 
stamina, etc.  Not much better, I admit, but this thinking has stopped me 
from focusing on weight and not the joy of riding.

I don't know whether this is any help. I hope so.
Steve Cole
Arlington, Virginia

On Tuesday, July 26, 2022 at 5:19:01 AM UTC-4 brendonoid wrote:

> Your Homer looks perfect and I would second everything that Roberta has 
> just said.
> Looking at your build in that photo the only things you could lose weight 
> on are all utility comfort things. 
> The saddle, Dyno, kickstand and brass bell are all weight saving 
> opportunities but also things that I personally would consider 'worth the 
> weight'.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: What saddles are women using on their Riv mixtes?

[Steve Cole]

And Gilles Berthoud also ships to the U.S.  Very good to work with and very 
fast delivery -- 2 or 3 days.  And likely to be less costly than purchasing 
stateside.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Friday, February 4, 2022 at 11:30:23 AM UTC-7 John Phillips wrote:

> Rene Herse sells the Gilles Berthoud saddles in the U.S.
>
> https://www.renehersecycles.com/product-category/components/saddles/
>
> John
>
> On Friday, February 4, 2022 at 9:16:59 AM UTC-8 Linda G wrote:
>
>> Thanks for all the recommendations! Rivet does have a couple of models 
>> that are shorter and, though generally more expensive than Brooks, are not 
>> as expensive as the Gilles Berthoud Marie Blanque. As far as unsprung 
>> models for more upright riding, Brooks doesn't have anything currently 
>> available except B17S. I'm not sure the Berthoud is even available in the 
>> U.S. except by order from France. I haven't run across anything non-leather 
>> that would look good on the bike and be functional. One thing I learned 
>> from this search is to measure my sit bone width which makes the likelihood 
>> greater of having success from ordering a saddle I can't try in advance. 
>> Rivet does have a good return policy though.
>> Linda
>>
>> On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 6:07:08 PM UTC-8 Bicycle Belle Ding 
>> Ding! wrote:
>>
>>> [image: FECE4CC1-CCA6-48D0-A2BA-33437A674267.jpeg]I have a white 
>>> leather Rivet on my raspberry Platypus! It is shorter, but also that means 
>>> it cheats you of some setback on your seatpost. I love it for comfort 
>>> though. Rivet Sonora.
>>>
>>> Leah
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 5:38:32 PM UTC-5 Roberta wrote:
>>>
>>>> I think Rivet has some shorter nosed saddles, too.  Good reputation.  
>>>> I've never ridden one, though.
>>>>
>>>> On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 10:33:00 AM UTC-5 Linda G wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for all the good ideas. That Berthoud Marie Blanque looks good: 
>>>>> leather with the shorter length I like. 
>>>>>
>>>>> On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 6:03:36 AM UTC-8 sof...@gmail.com 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On my platypus (soon to be on my Clem), I've tried the B17 regular, 
>>>>>> B17 special, B67s, and have settled on the speedy but comfier to me 
>>>>>> Gilles 
>>>>>> Berthoud Marie Blanque. 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Wednesday, February 2, 2022 at 11:38:16 PM UTC-5 Nick Payne wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> After having tried quite a number of different saddles over the 
>>>>>>> years, my wife has the Selle Italia Lady Gel flow saddle (in the 160mm 
>>>>>>> wide 
>>>>>>> L size) on all her bikes: 
>>>>>>> https://www.selleitalia.com/en/saddles/lady-gel-flow-s/.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Nick
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>

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[RBW] Re: BikeSnobNYC, 2022 Five Boro NYC Bike tour promo video on Platypus. Reviews of prior tours requested.

[Steve Cole]

I still think of the time I did the 5-borough ride as the most fun I've had 
on a bike.  It was not hot the day I rode.  When we reached the Verrazano 
Narrows Bridge, we rode on the lower deck in the shade and, honestly, I was 
very cold.  We arrived the day before, stayed in Manhattan and rode around 
the city all day -- fun!!!  At the end of the ride on Staten Island, I met 
another rider who cycled the 50 miles on an Atlantis.  Years later, I 
purchased my own Atlantis, recalling how beautiful I thought the Atlantis I 
saw that day was.  If you love cities, don't love cars, what better thing 
to do than ride carless NYC streets.  There were loads of cyclists on all 
types of bikes.  Still, I never felt crowded.  If you have the time, go for 
this.  And, be prepared to smile at your great good fortune.

Steve Cole
Arlington, Virginia

On Saturday, February 5, 2022 at 5:25:45 AM UTC-7 ascpgh wrote:

> Roberta,
>
> Do it and take a friend. 
>
> Arrive early-ish to the start, that was the basis of my only hesitations 
> of doing it again, we had trouble finding the rental outfit we had arranged 
> for a bike m wife wanted to use. Ride with amazement and awe through 
> streets of a city you'd never seen like this before and respect the 
> limitations of being amongst so many other cyclists (no sudden stops or 
> turns). Riders will begin to be stretched out by the time you're out of 
> Manhattan. There are multiple facets of this ride to appreciate besides the 
> strictly cycling part. Have those on you day's bucket list and you'll be 
> hooked. I'm good riding very slowly, I think that's a Rivendell handling 
> check box and it was useful in the beginning.
>
> As Dave points out, Drive to and park in Staten island at the terminal 
> lots and take the ferry over to Battery Park first thing in the morning and 
> be ready to queue up at the start area. We stayed in Newark the night 
> before, just made things easier with included on-site included parking and 
> restaurants. An easy trip to the ferry terminal in the morning, a very 
> simple exit for our departure (I had a longer drive that you will). the 
> convenience of proximity to the start of this event is only the sweet song 
> of Lorelei and those staying in town longer.
>
> I reported previously that during the ride my orange Rambouillet was 
> called out repeatedly. I was told how well it fit me and how nice it was 
> that my wife (*and many proximate riders of much more expensive "modern" 
> bikes*) seemed irked by the repetitive attention. "Are these the people 
> you email on those bike lists?" my wife asked. It was enlightening to see 
> how many normal riders participated, very few displayed the "I'm going to 
> crush this" attitude, or were bent on trying to set a fastest known time 
> imprinting the fun event with their minority raciness. 
>
> Take advantage of every organized rest stop. We did not and as it became 
> hotter and the route merged onto the Gowanus Parkway, an elevated limited 
> access roadway, going south toward the Verrazano Narrows Bridge, my wife 
> was out of water, snacks and bonked (*too casual with event prep, "It's 
> only 40 miles"*). Plan to have some goodies and extra water in your bag 
> as well as necessary weather preps be it sunscreen or rain gear and 
> insulating layers. It's a day and things happen.
>
> We couldn't hang around for the post ride entertainment too long since I 
> had to work in the morning so we loaded up and had an easy exit from Staten 
> Island and the five and a half hour trip home. 
>
> Sorry none of these are high quality, but you get the idea. From a folder 
> recovered as thumbnails only.
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/Uo5FPXmHE2wsTRhZA
>
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
> On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 1:14:23 PM UTC-5 Roberta wrote:
>
>> Here's a promotion that Bike Snob NYC did with Terry Barentsen.  Looks 
>> like fun.
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=as_9Pj_AD3A
>>
>> Is it worth it?  Most reviews I've heard basically say it's fun one time, 
>> but wouldn't do it again.  
>>
>> Roberta
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS - Wheelset -- Virtually New -- Top Components

[Steve Cole]

Sold.

On Friday, October 15, 2021 at 2:32:17 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Rear spacing? I think Sora is 130. 
>
>
>
> On Friday, October 15, 2021 at 10:39:51 AM UTC-7 Steve Cole wrote:
>
>> I’m selling a barely used 700c wheelset.  When I say barely used, they 
>> were used for less than 40 miles on two separate rides.  I am always 
>> experimenting with bicycle components and the results of this experiment 
>> led me to conclude that my other wheelset (Rene Herse Antelope Hill 700c x 
>> 55 on Velocity Quill rims with a SON Deluxe Widebody dynamo hub) for are 
>> strongly preferred.  My experiment can be your gain.  Here’s a description 
>> of the wheelset I’m selling:
>>
>> Rims – Velocity Cliffhanger 700c, 36H
>>
>> Front hub – SON Deluxe Widebody for rim brakes
>>
>> Rear hub – Shimano Sora
>>
>> Cassette – Shimano 9-speed, 12-36 HG
>>
>> Tires – Rene Herse Oracle Ridge 700c x 48 standard casing
>>
>> Tubes – Schwalbe No. 17
>>
>> All told, I paid $900 for these wheels.  I'd like to get $700 for them, 
>> plus the cost of shipping on BikeFlights.  Please let me know if you are 
>> interested. Thanks.
>>
>> Steve Cole
>>
>> Arlington, VA
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Show Me Your Atlantis!

[Steve Cole]

Hugh,
Responses to your questions:
1.  The wheel flop stopper is a Steer Stopper, available 
at https://steerstopper.com
2.  The Middleburn cranks, I believe, are sourced by James directly from 
the manufacturer in the UK.
3.  Trigger shifters.  I know that there is a preference for friction 
shifters in the Rivendell community.  Using feel is a seemingly more 
natural approach to shifting.  For me, the trigger shifters free me to 
simply enjoy the ride without needing to make any minute adjustments to the 
gearing.  To each his or her own.
4.  Bullmoose vs Bosco.  Again, to each his or her own.  At the same time, 
I think that handlebars are best when the hands/wrists rest in a close to 
normal position.  Boscos (and Albatrosses, which I have owned) are more of 
a handshake position.  Bullmoose bars and similarly nearly or completely 
flat bars for me provide better mechanics and pain-free riding.  Again, the 
Rivendell community seems to have settled on handshake style bars.  I'm the 
outlier here.
5.  Motolite brakes.  Motolites were essential to provide the width needed 
to handle the 700c x 55 tires.  In addition, when changing flats, which I 
very rarely do as they I use tubeless tires, the Motolites make this pretty 
easy without deflating the tire.  By the way, I only inflate the tires to 
30/35 lbs. front/rear.  I weigh about 200#. With the length of the chain 
stays, the low pressure tires, and the geometry, It's like riding in a 1962 
Chevy Impala and for me, that's really good.
Best,
Steve

On Monday, October 11, 2021 at 6:28:29 PM UTC-4 Hugh Smitham wrote:

>
>
> On Mon, Oct 11, 2021, 7:08 AM Steve Cole  wrote:
>
>> Hugh,
>>
>> I appreciate this thread very much and your follow up questions.  I've 
>> attached photos in partial response.  To start:
>>
>
> Steve, glad you like the thread. The responses have been great and an 
> inspiration. I love who folks really personalize their bikes.
>
>>
>> 1.  The contraption mounted between the top tube and the stem is a Steer 
>> Stopper.  It's an excellent way to hold the front wheel stable.  I use it 
>> in two applications.  First, I store my bikes from ceiling hooks.  It's so 
>> much easier to hang them when the front wheel is fixed.  Second, I 
>> transport my bikes on a roof rack on my car.  Lifting them is also much 
>> easier with a fixed wheel.  This is not what I would call inexpensive.
>>
>
> Wheel flop is a huge annoyance, especially with a front load. Perhaps you 
> can let us know what the product name is and where we might purchase one 
> for ourselves?
>
>>
>> 2.  The fenders are Simworks by Honjo.  I think they are 65 mm.
>>
>
> Gorgeous fenders I love metal fenders. I'll check out Simworks to get a 
> set for mine.
>
>>
>> 3.  Photos of the cranks are attached.  James recommended them.  They are 
>> strong, lighter weight than many and silver, which I insisted upon.
>>
>
> Do you know where James sources these cranks? Although I am partial to the 
> white industries myself.
>
>>
>> 4.  SKF BBs are sold by Rene Herse among others.  They are highly thought 
>> of and supposedly will outlast most other sealed BBs. Given the level of 
>> build, they seemed to be worth the expense to me.
>>
>
> Thank you I've heard of SKF bottom brackets but I haven't heard of them a 
> lot. 
>
>>
>> 5.  Trigger shifters.  I grew up on friction shifters and have never 
>> struggled with them. At the same time, for me, I love that these trigger 
>> shifters make shifting automatic in the sense that when I shift, the gear 
>> is precisely changed.  I now ride only upright and would not go back to 
>> friction shifters.
>>
>
> When I started mountain biking in the mid-80s I got used to using the 
> early trigger shifters and I really like them a lot, not so much for 
> aesthetics. These days I've become more comfortable with friction, however 
> I've been considering trigger shifters for my next build.
>
>>
>> 6.  I'm also attaching photos of my cockpit.  The bars Nitto Bullmoose.  
>> They are partially lugged and the stem is built in.  The headset is a Cane 
>> Creek 100 EC30 threaded.  Cockpits are very personal.  They play a central 
>> role in rider comfort.  For me, the slight sweep (30 degrees) of these bars 
>> is perfect.  They also provide a couple of different places for my hands 
>> and several places to locate things I attach to the bars.
>>
>
> Totally agree with your thoughts on cockpits. I've been curious about the 
> bullmoose bars, but have been unsure of their fixed nature. Meaning you 
> can't feather the bars downward. I'm really Bosco curious, I plan on trying 
> the Ultraromance idea to bend 

[RBW] Re: DMV Area Rivendell Riders

[Steve Cole]

Hey Michael,
I live in Arlington with my MIT Atlantis.  Take a look at it on another 
thread -- Show Me Your Atlantis.  Most of my riding allows me to ride from 
my home in Rosslyn or start a short drive away -- the Mt. Vernon Trail, the 
C Canal, the Anacostia Trail, the Arlington Loop, Haynes Point, and my 
most regular ride a 10-miler from home around the U.S. Capitol and back.  I 
tend to ride just after dawn as the trails are not crowded at that time. 
 Thanks for starting this thread.
Steve
Arlington

On Tuesday, October 12, 2021 at 9:59:55 AM UTC-4 Tom Wyland wrote:

> Hey, Tom here!
> I ride a limeolive Platypus and I live out in the Herndon area 
> (Virginia).  I typically don't make it to DC with that bike very often -- 
> maybe I will more when the Silver Line station near my house opens next 
> spring.   I'm active with Fairfax Alliance for Better Bicycling out this 
> way.
>
>

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[RBW] ISO Son Dynamo, Widebody preferred

[Steve Cole]

Hi, I'm looking for a gently used SonDeluxe Widebody 36H Hub for a second 
set of wheels I am building for my MIT Atlantis.  I would also consider a 
non-widebody version if you are willing to part with it. I need a Schmidt 
because of the connectors.  Please PM me if you can help me.  Thanks.
Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Personal Experiences Request.

[Steve Cole]

Hugh,  You and I seem to share the same aesthetic.  About a year ago, I 
purchased a long chain stay Atlantis.  I also wanted silver hubs and rims. 
 I worked with James and Candice, the great folks at Analog Cycles, to make 
my dream bike.  It has a James-recommended silver 36H Bitex BX103R rear hub 
fitted to a 9 cog cassette, a silver  Schmidt SON Deluxe Wide body QR 32H 
Front Hub, Velocity Quill Rims, and Sapim Race spokes.  These wheels are 
shod with Rene Horse 700C x 55 Antelope Hill gum wall tires.  I love my 
wheels, not to mention my Atlantis. I would not change a thing.  Not 
inexpensive, but I expect this great bike to be the one bike for the 
remainder of my riding.  Good luck,

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Thursday, February 4, 2021 at 5:47:41 AM UTC-5 Fullylugged wrote:

> Prowheelbuilder.com has the silver color Shimano 105 (R7000) rear hub for 
> $61 and front for $36.  105 is a longer tested product than V-O, if you can 
> live with a non polished finish, and the price is certainly right.  I built 
> a 650B set with these hubs and Velocity Synergy rims.  More recently I 
> bought a set of wheels with A23 rims and like them so far.  I have 38mm 
> tires on both wheelsets. A third wheelset has the polished White Ind hubs 
> and Synergy wheels and 32mm tires. All of them ride just fine. 
>
> On Thursday, February 4, 2021 at 2:34:54 AM UTC-6 Hugh Smitham wrote:
>
>> Ben,
>>
>> You don't sound argumentative and I appreciate your opinion.
>>
>> Is that article online? If it is, I'd appreciate a link, I'm curious to 
>> read Jan's opinion on this matter. I was expressing someone else's belief 
>> which I think I mentioned. I have had various experiences with larger tires 
>> and depending on the rim and psi I've felt the tire roll or collapse on 
>> cornering. Probably user error, running too low of a tire pressure. I've 
>> had 2.1 thunder burts on a 23mm rim and 2.8 and 3.0's on a DT Swiss 40mm 
>> rim and on my AHH I ran Velocity A23's with numerous tires from 38 to 42mm. 
>> As far as the Pacenti rims I think my buddies opinion was simply the j hook 
>> that holds the bead on isn't a good as say the HED's but good god $165 per 
>> rim. I actually like the look of the Pacenti rim. Although I can't recall 
>> where I heard this but they were difficult to set up tubeless? I may be 
>> wrong on this matter. If you have first had experience with the Pacenti I'm 
>> happy to listen/hear.
>>
>> Best, 
>>
>> ~Hugh
>>
>> “Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep 
>> moving.” ― Albert Einstein
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Feb 3, 2021 at 11:31 PM Ben Miller  wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Hugh,
>>>
>>> Sounds like you know what you are after in terms of rim size, and yeah 
>>> as you found I think you're choices in silver are limited. 
>>>
>>> I'm not trying to argue or change you're mind, but I am going to offer a 
>>> counterpoint to anyone else you is following this thread. Jan of Bicycle 
>>> Quarterly has opinion that rim width on larger tyres doesn't effect 
>>> handling. He has a brief section in his recent book on this very subject 
>>> called "rim width and cornering" that includes a compelling (to me) 
>>> example. And, from my own experience, I have 60 mm wide tyres on Velocity 
>>> Dyads which have an internal width of 18.6 mm.
>>>
>>> Everyone has their own experiences and preferences, which is one of the 
>>> best things about building up bikes because you get to express that. I'm 
>>> sure you'll be happy with you're piece of mind on wider rims! Best of luck.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 3, 2021 at 9:29:32 PM UTC-8 Weston Hein wrote:
>>>
>>>> The wheelset on my Clem is built from the previous generation VO 
>>>> touring hubs (same manufacturer?)  laced to Cliffhangers. I've run 2.35 
>>>> G-One speeds and 55mm Antelope hills on them and both tires set up very 
>>>> easily tubeless using velocity rim tape. 
>>>>
>>>> I'm really happy with the hubs- they feel really smooth and have 
>>>> minimal resistance when spinning them in the stand. I'd rate the free hub 
>>>> as medium loudness. It's not a hub noise that I would "notice" as being 
>>>> unusually loud if that makes sense. No high pitched buzz or anything that 
>>>> makes you focus on it. But it's definitely not Shimano quiet. I did quiet 
>>>> it down some using some Dumonde Tech free hub grease but the effect wore 
>>>> off and I stopped reapplying it as 

Re: [RBW] Re: Widest tire fit on Homer Hilsen?

[Steve Cole]

Hi,  I ride a Toyo AHH with Rene Herse Barlow Pass (700cx38) with fenders. 
 I doubt you could go any larger with fenders and the 38 wide runs smoothly 
and holds the road well.  Hope that helps.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA
On Wednesday, February 3, 2021 at 9:27:45 AM UTC-5 Sean Cleary wrote:

> Hadn't thought of Rene Herse tires. Like the WTB and Gravel King 
> suggestions too, thanks everyone. I'm dreaming of a warm spring ride while 
> riding my fatbike in the snow covered Minnesota mountains, er hills. 
>
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2021 at 5:53:05 AM UTC-6 psc...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> My size 67 AHH fits Rene Herse Snoqualmie Pass tires (700 x 44) just 
>> fine.  I did notice that after many miles the rear tire grew a little in 
>> size due to slightly higher PSI and greater load than the front, and became 
>> a tighter fit between the chain stays, so at that point I swapped the front 
>> and rear tires with each other and all good clearance-wise until they are 
>> worn out completely.   Currently running Hurricane Ridge 700 x 42 knobbies 
>> and really loving them.  The size and fit of 700 x 42 knobbies on the AHH 
>> really feels dialed in.  
>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2021 at 3:27:13 AM UTC+2 Ben Miller wrote:
>>
>>> I had an early Waterford AHH size 65. It maxed out at 38x700c tyres. In 
>>> fact, I ended up parting ways with it because of that. I did really try to 
>>> get Bruce Gordon Rock n Roads to fit, but it wasn't even close. I think I 
>>> would have kept to if could have. 
>>>
>>> The problem was the seats stays weren't dimpled. So it might have just 
>>> been that particular frame, though I don't really know. I did inquire with 
>>> a frame builder about dimpling them, but was told it was too close to the 
>>> bridge that it would probably ruin the frames structural integrity. 
>>>
>>> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 3:43:19 PM UTC-8 mkernan...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I used to have a Waterford Homer.  Not sure of the year.   I ran 45c 
>>>> WTB Riddlers and 43c Bruce Gordon Rock n Roads.   Both sets: front and 
>>>> rear.   Not sure you could fender those tires though.   Soma Cazadero in 
>>>> 42s are nice as well.   These tires all lean towards gravel/ dirt 
>>>> oriented. 
>>>>-Mike
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>> On Feb 1, 2021, at 3:34 PM, Paul Richardson  
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I successfully ran 43mm GravelKing SK+, but only very briefly.  
>>>> Personally I like the bike best with 38mm Rene Herse or good ol' 33mm Jack 
>>>> Browns.  Mine's a 2011 Waterford.
>>>>
>>>> paul
>>>> takoma park, md.
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 5:02:58 PM UTC-5 Sean Cleary wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hey gang, what 700C tires above 40mm have you had success with on 
>>>>> previous generation (2013) A. Homer Hilsen? Confusing what exactly fits 
>>>>> per 
>>>>> Rivbike. Have really enjoyed GravelKing Slick Plus 35mm on smooth gravel 
>>>>> and pavement but that's the max width in that non-knobby tread pattern. 
>>>>> Want to "*go to 11*"; thinking 42-45mm. Thanks!
>>>>
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>>>>  
>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/6082fecb-1408-4756-9427-5cd9e6a0a9a8n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>>> .
>>>>
>>>>

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Re: [RBW] Alternative to Velo Orange Wheel Stabilizer

[Steve Cole]

Bob,
My solution probably doesn't meet your requirements, but boy does it do 
what you want.  It's a commercial product called a SteerStopper 
[https://steerstopper.com].  It holds my front wheel complete straight and 
firmly whenever I engage it. It doesn't meet your need to not do anything 
to make it work.  In the case of the SteerStopper, you simply lower the 
retracted ball arm, which is attached to the stem and insert it in the 
holder attached to the top tube.  It took about 10 minutes to install.

 I use it for three purposes.  First, whenever I engage the kickstand, I 
use it as it makes the bike much more stable.  Second, I use it when I 
carry my bike in a roof rack.  Lifting the bike is much easier and placing 
the wheels in the tray is straightforward and without fuddling with the 
front wheel.  Finally, I use it when I store my bike, which involves 
lifting the bike to a vertical position and hanging it from a hook.

I don't think I would ever have another bike without this.  And I have no 
relationship with the company beyond being a loyal customer.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA


On Monday, December 14, 2020 at 11:22:27 AM UTC-5 Ian A wrote:

> I use a toe clip strap to lock the front brake lever. If the wheel can't 
> roll, the bike wont fall when loading/unloading panniers. 
>
> IanA
>
> On Sunday, December 13, 2020 at 3:14:06 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> +1. I use my bike/bikes for grocery shopping -- wheel them into the 
>> aisles -- and few things in this world are more annoying than trying to 
>> strap your pannier or saddlebag closed in a busy grocery store with the 
>> front wheel flopping back and forth and the bike trying to slip and fall 
>> under your and passers'-by feet. ("Passer-byes' feets? Passer's by's 
>> feet's? Passers' bys' feets'? help!).
>>
>> On Sun, Dec 13, 2020 at 2:49 PM Bob B  wrote:
>>
>>> Besides what the subject says...
>>>
>>> I'm looking for a solution to wheel tippage while using a regular 
>>> kickstand that:
>>>
>>>- Does *not* require you to do anything (e.g.: flick down a 
>>>flickstand)
>>>- Isn't dangerous
>>>- Looks cleaner/simpler than the VO product.
>>>- Lasts a while so I can forget it's there
>>>- Can be a DIY solution
>>>
>>> Include pics on your bike if you have a good setup!
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Bob B.
>>> Brooklyn, NY
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>>  
>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/bb3d-2463-4c17-925a-7cac97a7925an%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar bags

[Steve Cole]

I thought everyone should know that I received the following private email 
from another lister.  Caveat Emptor:

I am new on the list, so we haven’t corresponded before, but I just saw 
your post, below, and thought you should know that is a bag that was sold 
as a Kickstarter item and was pretty expensive.  Right after the 
Kickstarter ended, they started seeing a lot of fake ads selling the bag 
very inexpensively, like the one you posted.  But the thing is, that bag 
doesn’t even exist yet.  And the company that is making the bag, called 
Route Werks, sent out an email warning about the fake ads.  I thought you 
should know.  I hope it all works out for you.


Sorry if I have caused anyone any problems.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA 

On Sunday, November 1, 2020 at 6:26:37 AM UTC-5, Steve Cole wrote:
>
> Leah,
>
> I'm a bit embarrassed to send this reply.  My embarrassment derives from 
> the fact that the bag I'm going to tell you about I first saw in a Facebook 
> ad.  I can't even recommend it as I have not tried it . . . yet.  I did 
> bite and one is on the way to me from, I would guess, China, but who knows. 
>  I jumped on this bag for a few reasons.  Mostly, they have to do with what 
> it can do.  It's easy to open while cycling as the opening faces the rider. 
> Second, it has loads of attachment points for phones, Go Pros,  bells, 
> lights, etc.  Third, it seems to fit very comfortably between drop 
> handlebars and shouldn't be an issue for upright bars like I use.  Finally, 
> the price is very right -- $40.  Here's the link:
>
>
> https://budsweet.net/collections/BICYCLE-ACCESSORIES/products/smart-multifunctional-handlebar
> .
>
> And here's a photo:
>
>
>
> I don't think it comes in other colors so it may not work with your 
> raspberry sparkler.  Still, I think it's work looking at the website at 
> least to see how clever the designers were in developing this bag.  For me, 
> this just looked too good to pass up and pass along.  
>
> Cheers,
> Steve Cole
> Arlington, VA
>
> On Friday, October 30, 2020 at 12:58:11 PM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>>
>> While I wait for the wheelset of my Platypus, I’ve been thinking about 
>> how I want to set up my bars (sorry, I just cannot call it a ‘cockpit’). 
>> I’ve got 52 Boscos in aluminum to look forward to, and I want to keep my 
>> bike as svelte and light as I can. I did the unthinkable and paid for a 
>> Spurcycle bell just now ($49 for a bell?!) and now I need bags in keeping 
>> with the look. I’ve never ventured past Rivendell and Randi Jo for bags, so 
>> I’m unaware of what great offerings the market offers.
>>
>> As far as function goes, I’ve got that figured out. Attached are our pair 
>> of mom and kid Clems, which we have set up similarly with a Randi Jo bag 
>> for our Hydroflasks and a XS Saddlesack facing the rider for 
>> iPhones/keys/essentials. I like both of these bags, but neither holds all 
>> my items. I’d like to have only one bag so my bars aren’t so cluttered. I 
>> do know that Riv is re-doing some of their Sackville line, so I’ve emailed 
>> to ask about those details. I’d prefer to give Rivendell my money, but 
>> we’ll see what those new bags are like.
>>
>> Do you have any recommendations?
>> -light
>> -streamlined, unobtrusive
>> -zippers preferred
>> -no garish colors (frame is already a saturated color - raspberry 
>> metallic)
>> -hold a 32 oz flask AND an phone/keys/granola bar
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Leah
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar bags

[Steve Cole]

Leah,

I'm a bit embarrassed to send this reply.  My embarrassment derives from 
the fact that the bag I'm going to tell you about I first saw in a Facebook 
ad.  I can't even recommend it as I have not tried it . . . yet.  I did 
bite and one is on the way to me from, I would guess, China, but who knows. 
 I jumped on this bag for a few reasons.  Mostly, they have to do with what 
it can do.  It's easy to open while cycling as the opening faces the rider. 
Second, it has loads of attachment points for phones, Go Pros,  bells, 
lights, etc.  Third, it seems to fit very comfortably between drop 
handlebars and shouldn't be an issue for upright bars like I use.  Finally, 
the price is very right -- $40.  Here's the link:

https://budsweet.net/collections/BICYCLE-ACCESSORIES/products/smart-multifunctional-handlebar.

And here's a photo:



I don't think it comes in other colors so it may not work with your 
raspberry sparkler.  Still, I think it's work looking at the website at 
least to see how clever the designers were in developing this bag.  For me, 
this just looked too good to pass up and pass along.  

Cheers,
Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Friday, October 30, 2020 at 12:58:11 PM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> While I wait for the wheelset of my Platypus, I’ve been thinking about how 
> I want to set up my bars (sorry, I just cannot call it a ‘cockpit’). I’ve 
> got 52 Boscos in aluminum to look forward to, and I want to keep my bike as 
> svelte and light as I can. I did the unthinkable and paid for a Spurcycle 
> bell just now ($49 for a bell?!) and now I need bags in keeping with the 
> look. I’ve never ventured past Rivendell and Randi Jo for bags, so I’m 
> unaware of what great offerings the market offers.
>
> As far as function goes, I’ve got that figured out. Attached are our pair 
> of mom and kid Clems, which we have set up similarly with a Randi Jo bag 
> for our Hydroflasks and a XS Saddlesack facing the rider for 
> iPhones/keys/essentials. I like both of these bags, but neither holds all 
> my items. I’d like to have only one bag so my bars aren’t so cluttered. I 
> do know that Riv is re-doing some of their Sackville line, so I’ve emailed 
> to ask about those details. I’d prefer to give Rivendell my money, but 
> we’ll see what those new bags are like.
>
> Do you have any recommendations?
> -light
> -streamlined, unobtrusive
> -zippers preferred
> -no garish colors (frame is already a saturated color - raspberry metallic)
> -hold a 32 oz flask AND an phone/keys/granola bar
>
> Thanks!
> Leah
>

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[RBW] Re: Bike mirrors

[Steve Cole]

Leah,

Like you, I want everything on my bikes to be put together well.  I 
understand your thinking about the clunkiness of a bar-end mirrors.  Still, 
I want to put a word in for them and make a recommendation.  In August, 
Matthew William asked a similar question.  Here's that link 
[https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/rbw-owners-bunch/steve$20cole%7Csort:date/rbw-owners-bunch/vQ-DHCe6NAs/laR_tENeDAAJ]
 
and here's what I wrote then:

"Over the years, I've tried many kinds of mirrors -- I think they are truly 
essential for safety, especially in cities and towns.  After lots of 
experimenting, like Rick Freeman, I settled on the Hafny.  I tried the 
German mirror Riv sells and really found it wanting.  Same for the 
Mirracle.  I won't go into the reasons here but will elaborate if you or 
anyone else is interested. Here's why I like, no love, the Hafny.  As you 
know it is a bar-end mirror.  Inserting it into the bar end and tightening 
it makes it rock solid.  I won't lose it and important to me, the image is 
stable.  Second, it's flexible with respect to placement.  By this, I mean 
it can be set (and work well) anywhere within the 360 degree circle. 
 Personal taste. Mine is set upward.  Third, it has a stainless steel 
mirror, which is an important safety factor as it won't shatter.  Fourth, 
it's unbelievably inexpensive, $15; the Berthoud on the Rene Herse website 
is nearly $90 and has a much smaller, harder to use mirror.  The Hafny is 
easily available if you are willing to buy from Amazon.  

You didn't ask, but I use Ergon Biokork GC-1 grips.  They are specially 
designed for swept back handlebars like the Bullmoose, which sweeps about 
30 degrees.  They come with openings at the end of the handlebars and 
easily accommodate the Hafny mirror.  In addition, they really support the 
base of my hands, which rarely get numb anymore.  While Ergon grips are 
widely available, the GC-1 model is a little rare.  Be sure you get this 
model; it's easy to make a mistake.


I'll try to answer any questions you have.   

Cheers,
Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Saturday, October 31, 2020 at 11:39:09 PM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding 
Ding! wrote:
>
> I never had a mirror until 2012, which was when I got my Betty Foy and 
> discovered that mirrors existed. I bought the German mirror from Rivendell 
> and it’s all I’ve ever had since. But, I got a new bike now and I’m 
> wondering if there is anything else better than the mirror I got in 2012. I 
> don’t think I want one of those mirrors screwed into my bar end, because 
> it’s weird (like a contraption from a Dr. Seuss book). 
>
> Anyway, do I just use my old trusty German mirror? Or is there a more 
> sleek, modern, useful one I could snag for my Platypus? 
>
> Thanks! 
> Leah

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar bags

[Steve Cole]

Leah,  You will never regret buying the Spurcycle bell.  It's a wonderful 
way to gently warn walkers and cyclists that you are coming.  And, 
importantly, every time you ring it, it will be music to your ears.  Love 
your new ride!

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Friday, October 30, 2020 at 12:58:11 PM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> While I wait for the wheelset of my Platypus, I’ve been thinking about how 
> I want to set up my bars (sorry, I just cannot call it a ‘cockpit’). I’ve 
> got 52 Boscos in aluminum to look forward to, and I want to keep my bike as 
> svelte and light as I can. I did the unthinkable and paid for a Spurcycle 
> bell just now ($49 for a bell?!) and now I need bags in keeping with the 
> look. I’ve never ventured past Rivendell and Randi Jo for bags, so I’m 
> unaware of what great offerings the market offers.
>
> As far as function goes, I’ve got that figured out. Attached are our pair 
> of mom and kid Clems, which we have set up similarly with a Randi Jo bag 
> for our Hydroflasks and a XS Saddlesack facing the rider for 
> iPhones/keys/essentials. I like both of these bags, but neither holds all 
> my items. I’d like to have only one bag so my bars aren’t so cluttered. I 
> do know that Riv is re-doing some of their Sackville line, so I’ve emailed 
> to ask about those details. I’d prefer to give Rivendell my money, but 
> we’ll see what those new bags are like.
>
> Do you have any recommendations?
> -light
> -streamlined, unobtrusive
> -zippers preferred
> -no garish colors (frame is already a saturated color - raspberry metallic)
> -hold a 32 oz flask AND an phone/keys/granola bar
>
> Thanks!
> Leah
>

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[RBW] Re: Platypus: First Look

[Steve Cole]

Leah,

Try Simworks if you want aluminum fenders.  I have an MIT Atlantis with 700 
x 55c Rene Herse Antelope Hill tires. Simworks has a fenders all the way up 
to 80 mm wide.  Mine are the Flat 65s.  They fit only needing a very small 
crimp on either side by the fork.   Simworks has other sizes as narrow as 
35 mm as well as other profiles (Round,Turtle, Fuji and Liner).  James at 
Analog said that Simworks fenders, which are made by Hong by the way, have 
the best attachment hardware.  Love your new Platy!

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Tuesday, September 29, 2020 at 6:46:26 PM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding 
Ding! wrote:
>
> Hi Friends,
>
> It’s tough out there, isn’t it. Could we use a little joy? Would you 
> qualify a sneak peak at a new Rivendell bike model as a joy-bringer? If 
> not, stop right here
>
> Are you still with me? Get ready to be delighted! I have wanted a new 
> Rivendell mixte ever since the rumored Anniversary Mixte of 2018. Will - 
> who has had too many emails from me about the Anniversary Mixte, which 
> became the Fancy Cheviot, and ultimately evolved into the Platypus - sent 
> me an email. And in that email was the most remarkable photo...
>
> It’s Grant, with my new Platypus in his arms. Everything about this photo 
> is so endearing. The way Grant is proudly presenting the bike, this 
> long-awaited fancy mixte, named after his favorite animal. The way his eyes 
> are covered so you can’t read the pride in them but you can see in his 
> outstretched arms how he hopes you are pleased with his masterpiece. It’s 
> too much for me. I’m overcome. It is likely to go on my wall...the photo, 
> not the bike. 
>
> No, the bike will be ridden half to death. I won’t be precious about it, 
> but I will dress it up fancy. Analog is doing another one of their famous 
> colorful wheelsets and dyno systems for me, and the accent colors we chose 
> are rose and teal. (If you only have 2 bikes, you get to splurge on the 
> builds. See photo for wheel/dyno selection.) Rivendell will do the rest of 
> the build, and I am really looking forward to this because I haven’t ever 
> chosen the parts for a complete bike build before. My last *new* Rivendell 
> was the 2012 Betty Foy, and I didn’t know a thing about bikes then, so I 
> just requested Keven choose everything. In 2020, I know just enough to have 
> an opinion and I’m really looking forward to Will’s phone call about the 
> parts this week.
>
> The mixtes are the best bikes Rivendell makes, and they have outdone 
> themselves with this beauty. It’s regal, like a ballroom gown, and made 
> better because it’s not just a pretty face. It may appear as a 
> contradiction, because it is exquisite, yes, but not at the expense of 
> function. It is smart. Capable. Beautiful. Useful. This is the DNA of a 
> “joy-bringer.”
>
> I hope this beautiful bike brightens your day a little bit, and stokes 
> your excitement for Grant’s upcoming, long-awaited and much-celebrated 
> Rivendell mixte. I wish you all a Platypus this November!
>
> Leah
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS/WTT, 50cm Atlantis, ridden 4 times

[Steve Cole]

Joel,

Pleased for you. Did you ever explain your thinking that has led you to 
sell?

Steve Cole 
Arlington, VA

On Friday, September 18, 2020 at 7:56:53 PM UTC-4 Joel wrote:

> The bike has sold. 
>
> On Thursday, September 17, 2020 at 5:05:57 PM UTC-4 Joel wrote:
>
>>
>> a few scratches found when the bike was broken down. I may have missed 
>> one on the chain stay.
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Wavie Bar on Clem - A Review.

[Steve Cole]

David,  Thanks for the thoughtful, thorough review. I considered a Wavie 
for the same reasons as you. I went with a bullmoose as I decided the width 
of the Wavie was a little more than I wanted/needed.  

Steve Cole 
Arlington, VA

On Saturday, September 19, 2020 at 12:10:50 PM UTC-4 David B wrote:

> I've had a recent itch to swap out bars on my Clem from the Albatross 
> which I've been using since I built up my first generation Clem - I 
> preordered a Clem frameset from the first batch so I've been riding with 
> Albatross bars since whenever that was.
> The Albatross bars were great for city riding, which at the time was what 
> I was doing, with about a 10 mile round trip commute. I moved so that my 
> commute became about 12 miles each way, so I commuted by bike (Clem) a 
> couple times a week then used a regional train in combination with a lockup 
> train station bike and bikeshare in the city. I got used to that commute 
> and enjoyed not needing to worry about locking up my Clem on a large 
> university campus.
> Fast forward to now, my Clem became a kid-hauler and Albatross bars worked 
> fine for that. I've sort of 'reclaimed' my Clem as a recreational bike now, 
> which means mostly dirt and gravel (and sometimes muddy) trails around 
> where I'm at. I found I wanted something a bit different than the Albatross.
>
> My original plan was to setup two handlebar setups, drops and an 
> upright/flat bar, using a rinko-style setup to easily swap bars using 
> cantilever brakes without needing to undo any cables. A headset mounted 
> shifter made this a lot easier as I just needed to deal with brake cables.
>
> First, I tried out some drop bars to see what that would be like: 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/B-koMDRFxak/
>
> I used a 5cm Nitto stem with 50cm Velo Orange rando bars. I liked the 
> width, and the overall handling was spot on, but I felt I could go wider. 
> Note that my 1st gen Clem has a 64cm ett, shorter than the following runs. 
> It was a successful experiment, but I want to go wider.
>
> Then I set up a Wavie bar, using the same 12cm stem I was using with the 
> Albatross bar.
> It took a few rides to get used to, but I think this completely nailed 
> what I was going for. 
> I was unsure at first about the 'flatness' of the bar - I had wanted (and 
> what others have wanted) a wider Albatross bar. However, after riding the 
> Wavie bar, I think this is exactly what I wanted. I think a wider Albatross 
> bar wouldn't ride with the same feel as a regular Albatross. In other 
> words, the Wavie bar fills my desire for a wider Albatross.
>
> The Wavie bar shaped seemed familiar in photos, and now I can see why. It 
> is essentially a wider Jitensha bar (B2522). The way they made the Jitensha 
> bar wider is pretty clever, with it seems minimal changes to existing 
> manufacturing process. First, the clamp sleeve itself is wider, allowing 
> the 'bends' of the bar to be wider. It's actually the same distance from 
> the edge of the clamp sleeve to the bend on the Wavie bar and the Jitensha 
> bar. Since the Wavie clamp sleeve itself is wider, this makes the bends 
> wider. Otherwise exact shape from end of clamp sleeve to ben. Then the 
> bends are the same, with the only difference being a longer grip area, 
> which brings the end of the bars back further than the Jitensha and allows 
> room for a full grip, brake lever, and shifter. The Jitensha do not have 
> room for shifters butted up on the brake levers. Since I don't run bar 
> mounted shifters, this leaves a comfortable secondary grip area, much like 
> grabbing the curves on an Albatross.
>
> I still plan on trying out a wider drop bar setup and have the option of 
> easily swapping handlebar setups. I'm leaning towards the Crust Shaka bar 
> as my next experiment.
>
> So...
> The Wavie bar is great. If you've wanted a wider Albatross bar, this might 
> actually be what you want. If you've wanted a wider Jitensha bar, this is 
> exactly what you want.
>
> Current Clem setup: https://www.instagram.com/p/CFUwMd3lb-1/
> David
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Do you leave it alone...or must you monkey?

[Steve Cole]

Ben,

I'm an inveterate tinkerer.  That said, I won't bore you are anyone with 
the details of the changes I've made to my Rivendell bikes, with one 
exception.  I traded out the brakes for Paul brakes.  I found the Shimano 
brakes too squishy for me.  I want to know that the bike is stopping when I 
squeeze the lever and don't want to feel like the lever has not fully 
engaged the brakes.  I've had each kind of Paul rim brakes -- centerpull, 
cantilever, and V-brakes.  All have worked flawlessly giving me the 
confidence I like to have.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Tuesday, September 15, 2020 at 8:50:51 AM UTC-4, Ben Mihovk wrote:
>
> As I wait for my first Rivendell (sort of) patiently, I can't help but 
> prowl their website and this group and stare at components and accessories 
> that I think I'd like to try. But...the only bike I've ever monkeyed with 
> is my current one that came with a fantastic Shimano RD...and that's about 
> it as far as solid components go. So I'm always playing with the idea of 
> getting a different crank, different brakes, different this or that. 
>
> My question (finally) is this - of those of you who have done an a la 
> carte build through Rivendell, who just leaves everything they picked out 
> and who is constantly trying different components? 
>
> I didn't spring for any Paul components or a set of Rich's wheels, but 
> everything that's coming on this bike is nicer than I need it to be...so 
> the plan is to never change anything except bar tape. But...there is a lot 
> of buying and selling of components here and elswhere.
>
> So yeah...do you tinker with a Riv build, or do you let it be? 
>
> -Ben
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Rivendell Simpleone (58 cm) with Rohloff Speedhub

[Steve Cole]

Please email at Cole dot are at gmail with questions or expressions of 
interest.  Thanks



On Saturday, September 12, 2020 at 1:26:55 PM UTC-4, Steve Cole wrote:
>
> I am selling my wonderful RBW Simpleone that Cycle Monkey converted for me 
> from a single speed bicycle to a Rohloff Speedhub driven bike with 14 
> spaced separated gears.  I had seen that Cycle Monkey had made a similar 
> conversion for another Simpleone owner.  Since I first learned of Rohloff, 
> I was fascinated by the Speedhub.  It’s truly a marvel of German 
> engineering: https://www.rohloff.de/en/.  I knew that world tourers 
> commonly ride bikes with Speedhubs because they are bullet-proof.  I had 
> always had as a cycling goal to ride the Great Allegheny Passage/C Canal 
> paths for years, which seemed like a perfect reason to convert my 
> Simpleone.  I did, I rode, I had an amazing time, I never looked back.  
>
>  
>
> I’m probably not going on another long tour again soon, if ever.  The 
> GAP/C were about 350 miles and it took me a year and a half to 
> prepare.  Day rides and S24Os are now my main cycling pleasures so I’m 
> offering up my Rohloff Simpleone. 
>
>  
>
> Here’s a Rivendell Blug link about the Simpleone: 
> https://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/2349569449/simpleone-update-december-17-2010
>
>  
>
> Here’s a Cycle Monky link about the conversion:  
> https://www.cyclemonkey.com/blog/rohloff-equipped-rivendell-simpleone
>
>  
>
> My Simpleone is in near perfect condition.  You can find several photos 
> here: 
> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/13V_EPZ_RttiEHXfQsV7iib51JaOx7jLn?usp=sharing.
>   I 
> include a couple of photos that show some nicks but, really, nothing is 
> hidden.  The bike is fitted out with high-end components which are 
> reflected in the price.  I will consider any reasonable offer.  Here’s the 
> build:
>
>  
>
> Frame: 58cm Rivendell Simpleone
>
> Drive: Silver Rohloff Speedhub with preferred external gear mechanism, 
> Giles Berthoud 
>
> shifter and threaded axle
>
> Bottom Bracket: Rivendell standard, likely a Shimano UN55
>
> Handlebars: Nitto Albatross Alloy with leather Brooks knockoff grips 
> (Origin8) and Brooks 
>
> leather tape
>
> Brakes/Levers: Paul Components Touring Cantilevers with Pau Componentsl 
> Canti Lever Levers
>
> Stem: Nitto Technomic 100mm
>
> Headset: Standard Rivendell, likely FSA
>
> Seatpost: Nitto S83, two-bolt
>
> Hubs: rear-Rohloff Speedhub; front-Shutter Precision SV-8 Dynamo Hub
>
> Lights: rear-B Secula; front-B+M Eyc T Senso
>
> Wheels: rims-700c Velocity Dyad; tires-Compass (Rene Herse) Barlow Pass 
> 700cx38 standard, 
>
> gumwall; butted spokes, fenders-Velo Orange Snakeskin
>
> Rack: front-Nitto M12
>
>  
>
> Asking Price: $2,250, saddle excluded but shipping included
>

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[RBW] FS: Rivendell Simpleone (58 cm) with Rohloff Speedhub

[Steve Cole]

I am selling my wonderful RBW Simpleone that Cycle Monkey converted for me 
from a single speed bicycle to a Rohloff Speedhub driven bike with 14 
spaced separated gears.  I had seen that Cycle Monkey had made a similar 
conversion for another Simpleone owner.  Since I first learned of Rohloff, 
I was fascinated by the Speedhub.  It’s truly a marvel of German 
engineering: https://www.rohloff.de/en/.  I knew that world tourers 
commonly ride bikes with Speedhubs because they are bullet-proof.  I had 
always had as a cycling goal to ride the Great Allegheny Passage/C Canal 
paths for years, which seemed like a perfect reason to convert my 
Simpleone.  I did, I rode, I had an amazing time, I never looked back.  

 

I’m probably not going on another long tour again soon, if ever.  The 
GAP/C were about 350 miles and it took me a year and a half to 
prepare.  Day rides and S24Os are now my main cycling pleasures so I’m 
offering up my Rohloff Simpleone. 

 

Here’s a Rivendell Blug link about the Simpleone: 
https://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/2349569449/simpleone-update-december-17-2010

 

Here’s a Cycle Monky link about the conversion:  
https://www.cyclemonkey.com/blog/rohloff-equipped-rivendell-simpleone

 

My Simpleone is in near perfect condition.  You can find several photos 
here: 
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/13V_EPZ_RttiEHXfQsV7iib51JaOx7jLn?usp=sharing.
  I 
include a couple of photos that show some nicks but, really, nothing is 
hidden.  The bike is fitted out with high-end components which are 
reflected in the price.  I will consider any reasonable offer.  Here’s the 
build:

 

Frame: 58cm Rivendell Simpleone

Drive: Silver Rohloff Speedhub with preferred external gear mechanism, 
Giles Berthoud 

shifter and threaded axle

Bottom Bracket: Rivendell standard, likely a Shimano UN55

Handlebars: Nitto Albatross Alloy with leather Brooks knockoff grips 
(Origin8) and Brooks 

leather tape

Brakes/Levers: Paul Components Touring Cantilevers with Pau Componentsl 
Canti Lever Levers

Stem: Nitto Technomic 100mm

Headset: Standard Rivendell, likely FSA

Seatpost: Nitto S83, two-bolt

Hubs: rear-Rohloff Speedhub; front-Shutter Precision SV-8 Dynamo Hub

Lights: rear-B Secula; front-B+M Eyc T Senso

Wheels: rims-700c Velocity Dyad; tires-Compass (Rene Herse) Barlow Pass 
700cx38 standard, 

gumwall; butted spokes, fenders-Velo Orange Snakeskin

Rack: front-Nitto M12

 

Asking Price: $2,250, saddle excluded but shipping included

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[RBW] Re: Path Less Pedaled will review a Riv!

[Steve Cole]

I would call it Saffron with. metal flake.  I love the color but am not a 
fan of metal flake.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Monday, August 3, 2020 at 11:55:33 PM UTC-4, Brett Callahan wrote:
>
> I don't know what the reader/viewer overlap between the Riv list and the 
> Path Less Pedaled list is like, outside of Michael Mann and myself, but 
> damn am I excited by this!
>
> https://www.instagram.com/p/CDccdhYHoFU/?igshid=phskilu88qw3
> (Link is to their Instagram, I'm mobile right know so you may have to copy 
> and paste, apologies) 
>
> Anyone know what model this is? 
>
> For those unfamiliar, Russ and his partner at Path Less Pedaled do a lot 
> of great bike reviews, videos and interviews with Industry folk "on the 
> supple side" of cycling, i.e.; they're into non race oriented stuff.  Worth 
> your time, I think.  
>
> Cheers, 
>
> Brett in PDX
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rearview mirrors: necessary, effective, recommendations?

[Steve Cole]

Matthew,

Sorry it took overnight to reply.  Here's the link to my earlier thread 
-- 
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/internet-bob/steve$20cole%7Csort:date/internet-bob/f2U8ngMF1go/qOdQDmHWDQAJ.
 
 I was wrong, it was posted on IBob not RBW.  And, it's a much broader 
thread about safe riding, although I indicate how important a mirror is for 
me.

I too have the Bullmoose handlebars, although mine are the B890Rs.  Over 
the years, I've tried many kinds of mirrors -- I think they are truly 
essential for safety, especially in cities and towns.  After lots of 
experimenting, like Rick Freeman, I settled on the Hafny.  I tried the 
German mirror Riv sells and really found it wanting.  Same for the 
Mirracle.  I won't go into the reasons here but will elaborate if you or 
anyone else is interested. Here's why I like, no love, the Hafny.  As you 
know it is a bar-end mirror.  Inserting it into the bar end and tightening 
it makes it rock solid.  I won't lose it and important to me, the image is 
stable.  Second, it's flexible with respect to placement.  By this, I mean 
it can be set anywhere within the 360 degree circle.  Personal taste. Mine 
is set upward.  Third, it has a stainless steel mirror, which is an 
important safety factor as it won't shatter.  Fourth, it's unbelievably 
inexpensive, $15; the Berthoud on the Rene Herse website is nearly $90 and 
has a much smaller, harder to use mirror.  The Hafny is easily available if 
you are willing to buy from Amazon.  

You didn't ask, but I use the Ergon Biokork GC-! grips.  They are specially 
designed for swept back handlebars like the Bullmoose, which sweeps about 
30 degrees.  They come with openings at the end of the handlebars and 
easily accommodate the Hafny mirror.  In addition, they really support the 
base of my hands, which rarely get numb anymore.  While Ergon grips are 
widely available, the GC-1 model is a little rare.  Be sure you get this 
one; it's easy to make a mistake.

Happy riding.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Friday, August 28, 2020 at 12:21:36 PM UTC-4, Matthew Williams wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I'm thinking about getting a small, bar-mounted rearview mirror. For the 
> past forty-five years I've ridden without one and I'm in the habit of 
> constantly checking my surroundings, but after riding in traffic for 
> several months I'm thinking a mirror might be a good idea.
>
> Do you use a mirror, or is it unnecessary? Does it help, or is it just a 
> gadget that isn't a substitute for turning your head? What are your 
> recommendations for rearview mirrors? 
>

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[RBW] Re: Rearview mirrors: necessary, effective, recommendations?

[Steve Cole]

Matthew,

I started a thread a few months ago on this.  It's my view that mirrors 
dramatically improve ones safety, especially when negotiating urban 
traffic.  I may have a recommendation, but before offering it, would you 
tell us what kind of handlebars you have.  That would limit the possible 
solutions.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Friday, August 28, 2020 at 12:21:36 PM UTC-4, Matthew Williams wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I'm thinking about getting a small, bar-mounted rearview mirror. For the 
> past forty-five years I've ridden without one and I'm in the habit of 
> constantly checking my surroundings, but after riding in traffic for 
> several months I'm thinking a mirror might be a good idea.
>
> Do you use a mirror, or is it unnecessary? Does it help, or is it just a 
> gadget that isn't a substitute for turning your head? What are your 
> recommendations for rearview mirrors? 
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Suntour front derailleur double

[Steve Cole]

Joel, If you still need one, I have one I could let go.
Steve

On Wednesday, August 19, 2020 at 10:58:43 AM UTC-4 Joel wrote:

> Looking for a nice (NOS) double front derailleur. Open to other vintage 
> brands
>
>

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[RBW] Re: New Homer Sizing & Standover

[Steve Cole]

Paul,

I think Will and the staff at RBW is now answering the phone again -- not 
sure about Saturdays.  You may want to discuss your sizing issue with them. 
 I would guess you'd find their advice helpful.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Saturday, August 1, 2020 at 11:01:54 AM UTC-4, ☆ Paul ☆ wrote:
>
> I apologize if this has been covered elsewhere, but I'm searching the 
> forums and can't find an answer.
>
> I have an 85.5cm PBH and am 5'11". According to the new Rivendell PBH 
> chart, I should ride a 58cm New Homer MIT with 650B wheels. But the 
> geometry chart also says that bike has an 85.3cm standover, which is pretty 
> tight even with sneakers on. Is there anyone who can help me sort out if 
> this frame size would fit?  
>
> Alternatively, if someone has a 58cm homer and could measure actual 
> standover and just let me know what tires you have on I'd be very grateful.
>
> 
>

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[RBW] Re: My New Atlantis

[Steve Cole]

MIT = Made in Taiwan

On Monday, July 13, 2020 at 10:46:18 AM UTC-4, ☆ Paul ☆ wrote:
>
> Hello Everyone. I'm new-is here.
>
> Almost finished building up my new Atlantis MIT and thought I'd share it. 
> *What 
> does MIT stand for, anyway?*
>
> Finally coming to the realization that a really upright geometry makes me 
> happiest. Being a bit slower, I force my friends to slow down too and 
> conversation is the result.
>
> A little bit unconventionally for a Rivendell (I think?) I mounted a 1x10 
> SRAM drivetrain, which works brilliantly on this frame. Also took The 
> Deacon's advice and put the lovely Berthoud Mente saddle on, and committed 
> to ride the brick till it's comfortable... but a few days ago I chickened 
> out and dunked it in a bucket of warm water and put on lots of mink oil 
> (scary advice from the Internet, but WTF)... and it worked! Already 
> super-comfy.
>
> Still waiting on VO fenders, and a Nitto seatpost to match the stem. The 
> new G-One Speed tires are amazing, these are 50C and they roll so fast, 
> like much smaller tires. 
>
> Having trouble posting more than one image, will put-up more upon request.
>
> (PS: I finished a very similar build on a twin-top-tube Sam Hillborne for 
> a charity auction, and I ended up buying it myself, long story. It's a 
> little too big and I may put up for sale at some point soon... will post 
> when I do.)
>
> I love the positivity on this forum. Much love to everyone, 
>
> Paul
>
> [image: 1.jpeg]
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Reading saddle threads, B17, Berthoud Mente

[Steve Cole]

Joel,

Sorry for the delay.  I have both Berthoud's Aspin and Aravis; the only 
difference is the rail material, steel vs titanium.  I also have a Rivet 
Independence.  Important to me is they all have the cutout, which makes a 
huge difference in comfort.  I also like the narrowness as I have pretty 
thick thighs.  As for the Rivet, it is a stiffer saddle than the Berthouds, 
not quite as comfortable.  I wanted to try it and am still deciding whether 
to keep it on the bike it inhabits.  Good Luck,

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Sunday, July 12, 2020 at 1:11:45 PM UTC-4, Joel Stern wrote:
>
> I’ve ridden Brooks forever, I had decided to try narrower than my B68 as 
> Oi rubs my inner thigh and is annoying. So I started reading on my old 
> trusty B17.  Wow, so many models and opinions, now some discontinued.  Then 
> I stumbled onto a few (many) comments and threads on Berthoud saddles. 
> Looking at their page I see the Mente is closest in size to the B17, the 
> rest are narrower.  But they seem to not be available unless from an eBay 
> sellers who sell at a very high price.  I ride upright, not 90 degrees but 
> closer than not.  I did read some comments on the durability of the leather 
> which may have been caused by putting Proofide  on it.  Just wondering if 
> any members who ride upright have used the saddle and how they like it.   
> Not sure if this helps but my sitbones seem to ne a out 90mm apart, 
> +20=110mm.  
>

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[RBW] Re: Reading saddle threads, B17, Berthoud Mente

[Steve Cole]

Joel,

You can purchase directly from Gilles Berthoud in France.  The website has 
an English-language version and purchase and receipt has gone perfectly for 
me on several items.   

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Sunday, July 12, 2020 at 1:11:45 PM UTC-4, Joel Stern wrote:
>
> I’ve ridden Brooks forever, I had decided to try narrower than my B68 as 
> Oi rubs my inner thigh and is annoying. So I started reading on my old 
> trusty B17.  Wow, so many models and opinions, now some discontinued.  Then 
> I stumbled onto a few (many) comments and threads on Berthoud saddles. 
> Looking at their page I see the Mente is closest in size to the B17, the 
> rest are narrower.  But they seem to not be available unless from an eBay 
> sellers who sell at a very high price.  I ride upright, not 90 degrees but 
> closer than not.  I did read some comments on the durability of the leather 
> which may have been caused by putting Proofide  on it.  Just wondering if 
> any members who ride upright have used the saddle and how they like it.   
> Not sure if this helps but my sitbones seem to ne a out 90mm apart, 
> +20=110mm.  
>

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[RBW] Re: Widest Slick Tires on Atlantis with Fenders

[Steve Cole]

I use Paul Motolites. 

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[RBW] Re: Widest Slick Tires on Atlantis with Fenders

[Steve Cole]

Following up on Jason's post, I haveRH Antelope Hill with Simworks 74 mm 
fenders on my MIT Atlantis.  Clearance sufficient but close.  The fenders 
had to be squished a tad at the fork to fit well.  Happy to answer any 
questions.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Saturday, June 27, 2020 at 11:53:45 AM UTC-4, Elijah Bernstein-Cooper 
wrote:
>
> I'd like as wide slick tires as possible with fenders on my Atlantis 55. 
> Would it be possible to fit Rene Herse 55 Antelope Hill tires with SKS 
> 60mm  or Velo Orange 63mm fenders? 
>
> Any other recommendations for wide tires? Or for fenders?
>

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[RBW] Re: Brooks Brown v. Black

[Steve Cole]

Black. Since your tires have black sidewalls, the black saddle complements. 
 The brown saddle clashes with the mustard frame.  At least for me.

On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 5:00:15 PM UTC-4, Matthew Williams wrote:
>
> I'm considering swapping my existing brown Brooks saddle and grips for a 
> black set. I made a layered Photoshop file so I could review the colors on 
> the bike.
>
>
> Just curious, what you folks think.
>
>
> [image: bike_existing.jpg]
>
> [image: bike_black.jpg]
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 59cm Atlantis (current model)

[Steve Cole]

Bryan,

I think you made there right call.  I see from your post on the other item 
that you have a PBH of 87.5.  Mine is 86 and I have a 55 cm MIT Atlantis. 
 I find that I am on the edge of this bike although it is very comfortable. 
 I say the edge because the 250 mm seat post is at its max extension.  I 
could and might go to a 300 mm seat post, but don't see that as urgent. 
 I'm fairly confident you'll be very pleased with the 59 cm.  And, the 
bonus is you get that wonderful arched second top tube.  I'm a little 
jealous.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA


On Monday, June 15, 2020 at 10:22:21 AM UTC-4, Bryan Quinn wrote:
>
> Hello- I’m wondering if anyone on this list would be kind enough to point 
> me in a direction where I can find the current standover height for the 
> 59cm Atlantis. The table provided by Rivendell seems to leave it blank, at 
> least the ones I have seen. I do realize there is some variation based on 
> tire size so there is no perfect answer, just trying to get close. I’ve 
> been able to use a website called “bike insights” to compare a 59cm 2019 
> Atlantis with my current non-Rivendell bike, but I’m not sure how accurate 
> it is. Thank you! 

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[RBW] Re: Favorite Rivendell model names?

[Steve Cole]

My vote is for the Simpleone.  Too many pronounce it as two words in 
English -- simple one -- when in fact the correct pronunciation follows 
Italian rules -- seem play oh neigh.  When pronounce correctly this way, it 
is sheer genius of a bicycle name.

(sic)
Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Wednesday, June 3, 2020 at 10:17:21 PM UTC-4, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
> Or, “Let’s Fight About Something On Topic!” 
>
> Let’s hear your most and least favorite Rivendell model names. No name 
> calling, even about the names. 
>
> What is your favorite Rivendell model name? Mine is Legolas. It’s real 
> hard to separate out the bike itself from the name for me. For example, I 
> don’t like the Sam Hillborn name, but that might be because it sounded like 
> a downmarket A. Homer Hilsen. On the other hand, I LOVE the name Platypus, 
> and want one of those bikes no matter what it looks like! 
>
> Hunqapillar - how genius is that?! 
> Wolbis Slugstone, though? My least favorite, in a walk. 
>
> I only ask because I found this anonymous poll about Rivendell model 
> names: https://forms.gle/FEf5TeFkr4fZQdxEA 
>
> Philip 
> Santa Rosa, CA 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: MIT Atlantis

[Steve Cole]



On Tuesday, June 2, 2020 at 11:23:51 PM UTC-4, YQ wrote:
>
> I've listed my Atlantis for sale on eBay if anyone in the group is 
> interested: https://www.ebay.com/itm/303584929205. I would also be 
> willing to sell directly. Please let me know if you have any questions. 
> Thanks.
>

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[RBW] Re: Pedals

[Steve Cole]

Doug,

As on so many things, I'm of two minds.  I want to be able to jump on my 
bike and run some errands without worrying about what shoes I'm wearing.  I 
find, however, for longer planned pleasure rides being clipped in gives me 
a sense of security.  I would also add that living in an urban area, SPDs 
allow me to not worry about starting up from a stop.  I simply don't need 
to make certain the pedal is in a specific location, e.g., 10 a.m..  

My answer has been to equip my bikes with pedals that give me the options I 
want, one side SPD, the other flat.  My favorite, although not cheap, is 
the Shimano XT PD-T8000.  Unlike every other pedal I've used, when I 
unclip, they rotate to vertical and allow me to easily switch to flats, 
which I do when I'm stopping, or continue with the SPDs.  Good luck on you 
search.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Tuesday, June 2, 2020 at 1:46:34 PM UTC-4, Doug Hansford wrote:
>
> I saw an interesting article about innovative pedal design and it got me 
> to thinking. Why do I use the pedals that I use? I like platform pedals 
> after using clipless for many years for both road riding and single track. 
> My current are Shimano steel. Which pedals do you use and why?  Link to the 
> article below:
>
> https://newatlas.com/bicycles/bike-pedals-unique/
>
> Doug Hansford
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Sunglasses

[Steve Cole]

All, here's the add-on brim I mentioned in my earlier reply to Leah.  It 
also can be found with a "neck shade" for especially hot, sunny locations. 
 It's often described as a "hard hat add-on brim."

[image: Cycling Classic Brim]

On Sunday, May 31, 2020 at 5:26:58 PM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:
>
> I’ll get to the sunglasses part, but first just let me say all the words I 
> need to get out.
>
> Lately I’ve been shuffling over the practical side. I would love to have 
> beauty and utility both present, but sometimes it doesn’t work out. The 
> summer months have come to Vegas and as I have greatly increased my miles 
> in 2020 (in May alone I rode 310.4 miles!), I have had to make some changes 
> to withstand the sun. I’m not riding in Lycra, but I do have synthetic, 
> white arm sleeves that keep you cool, covered, and shielded from the sun. 
> I’ve taken to wetting and tying a bandana around my neck and wearing riding 
> gloves on my hands. I apply a nasty white mineral sunscreen at times, but I 
> never leave without sunglasses. 
>
> A few days ago I went out for an evening ride. It was dark enough that I 
> took off my sunglasses and was soon after hit in the eyes several times by 
> bugs. That was annoying but workable until the final one, which managed to 
> get IN my eye and then repeatedly bite or sting. Oh my gosh, the pain. I 
> pulled over but I was using the stripped down Clem H (my Clementine is in 
> the shop getting dyno lighting, another thing I needed with all this extra 
> riding) and it has no mirror. The bathrooms at the park were locked, so I 
> had nothing but my phone camera to use and try and fish this bug - which 
> was still ferociously stinging me - out of my eye. It must have died 
> because the pain stopped, but I never did find the bug carcass. 濫 I was 
> pretty sure all that biting/stinging was going to leave me with swelling. 
> Was I going to have to ride home after dark, up the mountain with one eye 
> swollen shut? (Spoiler alert: I made it home with 2 good eyes.) 
>
> Well that was when I decided I wanted clear riding glasses for night. I 
> ordered Tifosi from Amazon but was really disappointed. They slid down and 
> didn’t offer good eye coverage. I ended up on Oakley’s site, which I was 
> hoping to avoid for 2 reasons: 
>
> 1. $$$ 2. I’m not rad. 
>
> It’s really hard to find fit info and product reviews, but I finally 
> settled on creating a custom pair so I could tone down the rad. There’s a 
> sale going on right now, so while it’s not cheap, it’s not outrageous, 
> either. They’re Radar EV Pitch, I think, and might still be a little too 
> rad - but who’s going to see me? Well, now I’m going to have great eye 
> protection at night, but what about sunglasses for daytime? I have 2 pairs, 
> and while I think they’re fetching, they aren’t providing great coverage - 
> esp. the Warby Parkers. The sun comes down into my eyes from the top of the 
> glasses, and I don’t want to put up with it anymore. At least not on my 
> bike. 
>
> *I want to know: What do you all like to use for sunglasses while riding? 
> I want good coverage, but I don’t want to look like a cyborg, either. *
>
> Lastly, I feel like I am morphing from something that once resembled 
> Practical Cycle Chic into what The Bike Snob would call The Lone Wolf. 
> Picture the polka dot helmet, white arms sleeves, Keen sandals, neck 
> bandanna and Oakleys - it’s not lookin’ good, it’s lookin’ Lone Wolf-y. 
>
> *Should I just embrace it and get wild Oakley’s for the sun? Or do you 
> have a more reasonable suggestion? Is there a gold standard for cycling 
> sunglasses? I have 20/10 vision, they tell me, so prescription is not a 
> factor here. *
>
> Attached is the night glasses I am having made. It’s going to be a couple 
> weeks before I get them. Go ahead and laugh. I am.
>
> Thanks!
> Leah
>

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[RBW] Re: Sunglasses

[Steve Cole]

Leah,

I was struck by your description that, "The sun comes down into my eyes 
from the top of the glasses, and I don’t want to put up with it anymore. At 
least not on my bike." I'm surprised that no one has commented on this.

I've worn glasses now for half my life.  When I wear only my clear 
prescription glasses, I am not bothered by the sun shining "over" the top 
of my glasses.  When I switch to sunglasses, however, for reasons I cannot 
understand, the sun coming over the top of my glasses bothers me 
tremendously.  I have taken to wearing hats, mostly baseball hats when I am 
out walking around or doing whatever.

When I ride, I find that I cannot wear "road-style" helmets; this style 
helmet does not shade by face so the sun simply shines over the top of my 
sunglasses.  So, I've taken to using mountain bike-style helmets, even when 
road riding.  The extra plastic brim makes all the difference for me, 
providing just the right amount of shade on the upper part of my face to 
eliminate the problem of sun over the top of my glasses.  One other note: I 
spend part of the year in Southern Arizona.  When riding there in the 
cooler, but still very sunny months, I have seen other riders who use some 
kind of almost hat-like brim that attaches to a bike helmet providing good 
protection for both face and neck, which can be essential in Arizona.

Anyway, good luck on your effort to solve this issue.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA




On Sunday, May 31, 2020 at 5:26:58 PM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:
>
> I’ll get to the sunglasses part, but first just let me say all the words I 
> need to get out.
>
> Lately I’ve been shuffling over the practical side. I would love to have 
> beauty and utility both present, but sometimes it doesn’t work out. The 
> summer months have come to Vegas and as I have greatly increased my miles 
> in 2020 (in May alone I rode 310.4 miles!), I have had to make some changes 
> to withstand the sun. I’m not riding in Lycra, but I do have synthetic, 
> white arm sleeves that keep you cool, covered, and shielded from the sun. 
> I’ve taken to wetting and tying a bandana around my neck and wearing riding 
> gloves on my hands. I apply a nasty white mineral sunscreen at times, but I 
> never leave without sunglasses. 
>
> A few days ago I went out for an evening ride. It was dark enough that I 
> took off my sunglasses and was soon after hit in the eyes several times by 
> bugs. That was annoying but workable until the final one, which managed to 
> get IN my eye and then repeatedly bite or sting. Oh my gosh, the pain. I 
> pulled over but I was using the stripped down Clem H (my Clementine is in 
> the shop getting dyno lighting, another thing I needed with all this extra 
> riding) and it has no mirror. The bathrooms at the park were locked, so I 
> had nothing but my phone camera to use and try and fish this bug - which 
> was still ferociously stinging me - out of my eye. It must have died 
> because the pain stopped, but I never did find the bug carcass. 濫 I was 
> pretty sure all that biting/stinging was going to leave me with swelling. 
> Was I going to have to ride home after dark, up the mountain with one eye 
> swollen shut? (Spoiler alert: I made it home with 2 good eyes.) 
>
> Well that was when I decided I wanted clear riding glasses for night. I 
> ordered Tifosi from Amazon but was really disappointed. They slid down and 
> didn’t offer good eye coverage. I ended up on Oakley’s site, which I was 
> hoping to avoid for 2 reasons: 
>
> 1. $$$ 2. I’m not rad. 
>
> It’s really hard to find fit info and product reviews, but I finally 
> settled on creating a custom pair so I could tone down the rad. There’s a 
> sale going on right now, so while it’s not cheap, it’s not outrageous, 
> either. They’re Radar EV Pitch, I think, and might still be a little too 
> rad - but who’s going to see me? Well, now I’m going to have great eye 
> protection at night, but what about sunglasses for daytime? I have 2 pairs, 
> and while I think they’re fetching, they aren’t providing great coverage - 
> esp. the Warby Parkers. The sun comes down into my eyes from the top of the 
> glasses, and I don’t want to put up with it anymore. At least not on my 
> bike. 
>
> *I want to know: What do you all like to use for sunglasses while riding? 
> I want good coverage, but I don’t want to look like a cyborg, either. *
>
> Lastly, I feel like I am morphing from something that once resembled 
> Practical Cycle Chic into what The Bike Snob would call The Lone Wolf. 
> Picture the polka dot helmet, white arms sleeves, Keen sandals, neck 
> bandanna and Oakleys - it’s not lookin’ good, it’s lookin’ Lone Wolf-y. 
>
> *Should I just embrace it and get wild Oakley’s for the sun? Or do you 
> have a more 

[RBW] In Praise of RBW

[Steve Cole]

Everyone I know knows what I think about Rivendell Bikes – I have three and 
my wife has (had) one.  When I first learned about these bikes and Grant’s 
philosophy, it was as if I had found my cycling home.  No other bikes every 
seemed as wonderful.

 

As a daily reader and occasional contributor to RBW Owners Bunch, I know 
there are many others who share my affection for Riv Bikes.  I have never 
taken the time, however, to talk about  R BW and the staff.  An event of 
this week makes me want now more than ever to sing RBW’s praises.

 

Over the years, I’ve had many occasions to interact with RBW staff, mostly 
over the phone.  Once, while visiting my daughter and her family in the Bay 
Area, I went out to Walnut Creek, a kind of pilgrimage.  Grant gave me the 
kind of personal attention I am certain he – and Will, and Mark, and Vince 
and all the staff – gives every visitor whether a first-timer like myself 
or a regular.

 

This week.  My grandson is just beginning to cycle – he’s been practicing 
on the flat top of a parking garage.  On Monday, I loaded my wife’s Betty 
Foy onto the roof of our car and headed over to the parking garage where 
she planned to ride with my grandson.  The entrance to the garage is on the 
top level and we drove in – or tried to.  Regrettably, there is a bar over 
the entrance that restricts the height of vehicles entering.  There was no 
sign and I did not notice the bar.  I ran into it and Betty was knocked off 
the roof.  Initially, it seemed like the most serious damage was to the 
stem.  It was bent pretty badly.  Otherwise, everything seemed like it 
could be put back together.

 

After replacing the headset, I went to install the fork.  Ughh!  The top of 
the threaded section on the steerer had broken off.  My first thought was 
to reach out to Bilenky to see whether they could remove the steerer tube 
from the fork and weld on a new one.  A lightbulb went off and some dim 
memories of RBW selling just forks suggested I reach out to see whether 
they might have a spare.  I called and spoke with Vince.  I took the 
measurements he asked for.  Within 10 minutes, he called to let me know 
they had a replacement – and to cushion the blow and lessen my guilt, it 
was already painted in Betty Foy blue with the red mustache on the fork 
crown.  Vince sent it out the same day.

 

What can I say.  What other company would even have spare forks for a 
nearly 10-year old bike, much less one that is already painted and will fit 
perfectly?  

 

RBW – and especially Vince – I remain a devoted follower!

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[RBW] Re: Admissions of Things You Ought to Have Known But Did Not: A Thread

[Steve Cole]

Leah,

Thanks for starting this thread and the many others you have begun.  They 
are one of the reasons I visit this site daily.

The one thing I should have known but did not -- and it's really an entire 
category -- is that I really shouldn't work on my own bike.  While I think 
am mechanically inclined, I've never trained as a bike mechanic -- 
professional or amateur.  The number of times I have started to "fix" 
something on one of my bikes is too many to count.  All too often, after 
realizing I have not fully succeeded and my bike is not rideable, I haul it 
to my LBS where, in addition to addressing the original problem, they also 
need to undo my bad work and make what I've done wrong right.  

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA



On Monday, May 4, 2020 at 9:41:14 PM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:
>
> I nearly talked myself out of this thread because I’m about to make myself 
> look really stupid, but it was so funny that I’m doing it anyway. 
>
> I’ve been somewhat of a mess my whole Biking Life. I adored bikes, always, 
> but I never had a proper bike education or a nice bike until 2012. I was 
> born to the least mechanically-inclined parents on earth, and my mom was 
> more proficient than my dad. I grew up riding the worst bike you can 
> imagine, always with nearly-flat tires. Maybe once a year, usually in 
> spring, Dad would haul my bike to the gas station and fill the tires with 
> air. It was like riding on clouds. But eventually, my tires would lose air 
> again and I’d have to wait until next year. Not that I’d notice anything 
> was amiss - I was too busy riding barefoot all over small town North 
> Dakota, falling out of trees, eating penny candy from the bowling alley and 
> building forts. Tires, what tires. 
>
> I grew up, went to college, met and married my husband, who grew up on a 
> farm. We moved across the country with almost nothing and started our life 
> and careers. My farmer father-in-law came to visit and outfitted our garage 
> with tools he thought mandatory, including an air compressor. I think it 
> was my 27th birthday that my husband told me he wanted to get me a bike. I 
> knew just the one, it was *really* expensive at $125, but it was my 
> birthday and I would get the best: A blue Schwinn Sidewinder from the local 
> Walmart. 
>
> While he was visiting, my FIL (again, a farmer and not a bike rider) 
> noticed my bike tires were pathetically low. Of course I hadn’t noticed; 
> flat tires were de rigueur for me! He filled them with the air compressor, 
> pushed on the tire and declared it good. And from then on, that was how I 
> did it. 
>
> I’ve heard you all talk about your supple tires and not wanting them rock 
> hard, and I knew *I* had supple tires because when I squeezed them, there 
> was a tiny but perceptible give to the rubber. I mean, that’s what you all 
> meant, right? So I made sure I never filled my tires very fully because 
> supple tires were the ticket. 
>
> I ended up with a floor pump last year. It has a gauge that tells you “how 
> much pressure you runnin’”. I have started using it lately and began to pay 
> attention to what my tire pressure was. 20-25. Huh. I remember folks 
> discussing tire pressure and I didn’t recall theirs being so low. So, I 
> asked Joe, who seems to answer most of the questions on the List and 
> doesn’t seem to resent it. He (through fits of laughter at his keyboard, 
> I’m sure) said that yes, I actually should be pumping up my tires to a 
> certain number and that yes, they would feel rock hard, and no, squeezing 
> them is not a good test, and indeed I would not explode my Big Bens (with 
> max psi of 70) if I filled them to 55 psi. 
>
> I was today years old when I learned that your tires are *supposed* to 
> feel rock hard and be filled to an actual number. I was today years old 
> when I learned that my “supple tires” were just tires that were low on air. 
>
> Who else has managed to miss the obvious when it comes to bike stuff? 
>
> Leah, who would like you to know she is smart at other things. Just not 
> bike things. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Going from Sam (60cm to New Atlantis (59cm) - asking the unaskable: how will the New Atlantis feel?

[Steve Cole]

JP,

I've been meaning to add my two cents to this thread and hopefully be 
helpful to you.  I own a Toyo (2007) A. Homer Hilsen (59 cm) and an MIT 
Atlantis (55 cm).   I've taken the time to ride both in the last week in an 
effort to appreciate/zero in on the differences.  Before talking about the 
rides, however, it would probably be helpful if I described the builds.  

Both bikes have similar builds, although the Atlantis has a slightly more 
upscale bulid with a Shimano XT drivetrain while the AHH has a Shimano 
Deore drivetrain.  The Atlantis has a better crankset (MIddleburn), bottom 
bracket (SKF), and headset (Cane Creek).  The AHH has standard Riv 
components in these areas.  Both have Paul brakes -- centerpull on the AHH, 
Motolites on the Atlantis.  The AHH has Velocity Atlas rims with Rene Herse 
Barlow Pass EL 38 x 700c tires; the Atlantis has Velocity Quill rims with 
tubeless Rene Herse Antelope Hill EL 55 x 700c tires.  Both bikes have 
Nitto Bullmoose handlebars.  While the Atlantis has several upgrades, i 
don't think they actually affect the rides of the two bikes in any very 
noticeable way.  No doubt the different tire sizes contribute to any 
difference.  Finally, both have Berthoud saddles, Aspin on the Atlantis, 
Aravis on the AHH.

I bought the Atlantis new recently hoping -- expecting -- it would become 
my one bike.  I expected to be selling my AHH and my Simpleone.  The jury 
is still out.  Since i received the Atlantis in early March, I've ridden it 
the most.  The ride, as many have described, is very forgiving.  It takes 
both pavement and dirt extremely well, perhaps just a bit better than the 
AHH.  I have not noticed any Atlantis handling issues.  It tracks very well 
taking corners as well as the AHH.  It goes exactly where I want it to go. 
 As others have noted, I'm the heaviest part of either ride, so the modest 
additional weight of the Atlantis is only slightly noticeable.

So, why am I at sixes and sevens with respect to making the Atlantis my one 
bike?  When I get on the AHH, it still seems nearly perfect for most of the 
riding I do, which is on pavement.  When it's on dirt, it does not handle 
quite as well as the Atlantis.  Still I love the AHH, in some ways have 
thought of it as the best Rivendell has designed.  And it is beautiful -- I 
love the blue color.  And, while Grant swears their is no difference 
between Toyo, and Waterford AHhs, in my head I feel the Japanese builders 
understand steel and brazing in their souls.

So, I will keep the AHH for now.  I will ride both, although the Atlantis 
will get dibs most days,  And, the Simpleone will soon be offered to others.

I hope this is helpful.  Let me know if I can add any more..

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA




On Tuesday, April 28, 2020 at 9:41:29 PM UTC-4, JP wrote:
>
>
> (As I mentioned previously i thought i "needed" a new bike but don't.  
> However, it was too late I wanted a new bike.)
>
> I had always planned on getting a 63 MUSA Homer, but I just bought a New 
> Atlantis frame based on the following logic:
>
> 1. The best bike i've ridden has been the my dads Homer 63 cm Toyo.  
> 2. I've loved my Sam but i always like how the Homer was bigger (and it 
> felt longer).  The new bikes in the running (New Homer, New Atlantis and 
> Appaloosa) are all even longer than the 63cm Homer
> 3. Shell ridge is very close to where i live and i would be interested in 
> riding there.
> 4. Even if I was going to get the New Homer, it's sold out in my size.
> 4. Will @ RBW said an Appaloosa with Homer sized tires will feel more like 
> a "Homer" than a Homer with big tires would.
> 5. Appaloosa is also sold out.
> 6. New Atlantis even longer and sturdier 
>
> I'm possibly going to cannibalize the Sam and then sell the frame, the 
> silver sidepull brakes, and possibly the crank if RBW can't help me get a 
> 1-1 ratio out the small ring.  Or sell to family member.
>
> My brother has a 62 hunq and it doesn't feel a little heavier to ride than 
> the homer, but not dramatically so.  I've read the "weight thread" and I 
> still don't feel like i know the answer and so i thought it would ask 
>
> *Is the New Atlantis going to fill "heavy" compared to a Sam or Homer?*
>
> JP
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Frame color!

[Steve Cole]

Patrick,
Sorry.  The light beige is Pantone 7528 C.  Try that.
Steve Cole
Arlingto, VA

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[RBW] Re: Frame color!

[Steve Cole]

Patrick,

One of the great attributes of Sage Green is its subtlety compared to purer 
colors -- red, blue, yellow, etc.  A color that has a similar quality that 
you may have already considered is a light beige -- sort of the color of VW 
Beetles of long ago.  I loved Beetles of this color.  I looked for a 
Pantone color that might have a similar attraction.  I really like Pantone 
7628 C.  I tried to copy a chip and upload it but Pantone doesn't make this 
easy to do.  Take a look.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA


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[RBW] Re: Analog Cycles: Free Tubeless Clinic on Instagram Live

[Steve Cole]

James and Candice,

Many thanks for the tubeless show.  You convinced me to go tubeless.  With 
your video, It won't feel so foreign to me.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Monday, April 13, 2020 at 4:59:03 PM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> ***Posted on behalf of James and Candice, whose posts are delayed on the 
> List*** 
>
> Analog Cycles, a Rivendell dealer out of rural Vermont has mounted 500 
> tubeless tires and counting. They have honed their technique and are 
> willing to share their tips on all things tubeless. James and Candice are 
> offering us a FREE tubeless clinic. They will cover tubeless mounting, 
> maintenance, and flat-fixing via an Instagram Live session. You will be 
> able to ask your questions via text during the video and get your answers, 
> straight from Analog. 
>
> If you’ve been considering going tubeless or if you have just wanted to 
> know how it all works, join us Wednesday, April 15 at 5 pm EASTERN time. 
> Most folks are working from home, so hope those from other time zones can 
> hop on. Follow Analog Cycles on Instagram and look for them to go live 4.15 
> at 5pm EST. 
>
> Thanks so much, James and Candice - I can’t wait to tune in. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: 59 MIT Atlantis

[Steve Cole]

Michael,

Not long ago, I too looked for an Atlantis.  I was to have been my third 
bike from Rivendell.  My PBH is 86 cm and my other Rivendell bikes are a 59 
cm Homer and a 58 cm Simpleone. Since both of these bicycles fit extremely 
well, naturally I thought the right size for the Atlantis I wanted would be 
59 cm.  I learned the hard way that I was wrong.

I wanted a new MIT Atlantis, particularly a 59 cm.  Not only did I think it 
would be similar in size to my other bikes, but I loved the arched second 
top tube, which was not available on smaller frames. I went ahead and 
bought a used 59 cm frame from another lister.  As it turns out that the 
sizing of  Atlantis models has changed, and I was unaware of this.  While I 
would like have been right with a 59 cm if I was seeking a used Toyo or 
Waterford Atlantis, my size for the new MIT Atlantis is a 55 cm.  The MIT 
Atlantis is "stretched out" compared to previous models.  It has a longer, 
slanted top tube and longer chain stays.  This added length and the slanted 
top tube means that measuring the size of the bike by the seat tube can be 
misleading when compared to the earlier Atlantis models that had parallel 
or nearly parallel top tubes.  I was lucky.  I learned this before the 
seller had even shipped me the 59 cm.  He was kind enough to refund my 
payment and had no trouble finding another buyer.

You may be looking for one of the older models.  If so, nevermind.  If, 
however, you are looking for an MIT Atlantis, I hope my experience is 
helpful to you.  

Steve Cole
Arlington, Virginia

On Saturday, April 4, 2020 at 10:06:33 PM UTC-4, Michael Williams wrote:
>
> Just seeing if anyone has a 59cm MIT Atlantis that they’re not riding 
> much.Shoot me a message.Thank you!   -Mike

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Re: [RBW] Lovely Bicycle blogs again!

[Steve Cole]

Joe,
Thanks for pointing this out.  It’s great news at least to this lister.

When I first encountered “Lovely Bicycle,” I was a little spellbound. Whatever 
Velouria wrote, it spoke to me.  Her love of cycling, her childlike wonder was 
infectious.  New blog entries never were frequent enough.  The way she thought 
about cycling and bikes influenced me as much as or nearly as much as Grant’s 
writing.  

When her entries stopped in early 2018, I didn’t believe it.  This was 
especially true since Velouria had told of things she still planned to write 
about (e.g., a forthcoming experience with a RBW bike). Since she never told us 
the end had come, initially, I still checked daily for new blog entries.  Then, 
I checked every few days, then weekly.  I still retained a tab for the site.  
Last January - 2019, another entry appeared on aptitude if I recall correctly.  
I think it included some remarks on knitting, which seemingly had replaced 
cycling as Velouria’s passion.  I waited for the next entry, which never came.  
Most recently, I still checked the site, but probably only every 3-4 months.  
It’s been a while as you can tell.

Cycling for me has many components; one is that it is a state of mind.  I 
always felt from what I read on Lovely Bicycle, it was this way for Velouria as 
well. Even when she was not riding, she was thinking about riding, about past 
rides, future rides, bikes, etc. I learned a lot from what she wrote, not only 
about cycling.  And it resonated.  Not much more could I ask from anything I 
read.  

I hope this new entry is a harbinger of more to come. Thanks for the heads up.

Steve Cole
Arlington, Virginia

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[RBW] Re: Rides Report - New MIT Atlantis

[Steve Cole]

It's a SteerStopper.  It is a not inexpensive way to hold the front wheel 
in place.  I find it especially useful when loading my bike onto my roof 
rack or stowing it in our garage where, to save space, it hangs from the 
rear wheel from a ceiling hook.

On Tuesday, March 31, 2020 at 1:23:55 PM UTC-4, Drw wrote:
>
> Good reading/thanks for sharing. What is the device connecting from the 
> top tube to the stem?

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[RBW] Re: Rides Report - New MIT Atlantis

[Steve Cole]

Sorry about the error on my lowest gear.  It should have read 24T 
chainwheel, 40T cog.  Oops.

On Tuesday, March 31, 2020 at 11:58:04 AM UTC-4, Steve Cole wrote:
>
> This is my second posting related to my new MIT Atlantis.  The other post (
> https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rbw-owners-bunch/zHDypfGZKYQ) was 
> a description of the bike, it's components and the thinking behind my 
> choices.  This post concerns two recent rides, a brief one on Saturday, 
> (3/28), another on Sunday (3/29) and then this morning (3/31).  By way of 
> background, I live just across the river from Washington, D.C. in Arlington.
>
> I've tried to attach a photo of the bike from about a week ago.
>
> *Saturday, March 28*
> I planned to ride from Fletcher's Boat House on the Potomac River in DC 
> about 3 miles upriver from Georgetown to Haines Point about 15-20 mile ride 
> roundtrip.  I'd heard a few days earlier the Tidal Basin where the 
> Jefferson Memorial is located and the Japanese cherry trees were in bloom 
> was closed.  After riding through Georgetown and past the Kennedy Center, I 
> was stopped by police.  The Tidal Basin and cherry trees were closed to the 
> public as the area had been swamped with people, too many to maintain the 
> recommended separation.  Oh well, back home.
>
> *Sunday, March 29*
> The day started out dark gray and looked like rain for most of the day. 
>  Around 3:00 p.m., the clouds disappeared and the bright sun came out. 
>  When the sun appeared, I headed out. I planned to take a different route 
> from my home across the Potomac, head down the Mt. Vernon Trail on the 
> Virginia side of the Potomac, cross the 14th St. bridge and then find my 
> way to Haines Point.  There's nothing like a warm (mid-70s) day, however, 
> to bring a huge bunch of cooped up people out for a walk, run or ride. 
>  What's more, Memorial Bridge, which goes directly from Virginia to the 
> Lincoln Memorial was closed to all traffic, partly due to construction, 
> partly to discourage people from going to the Tidal Pool. I went on to the 
> 14th St. bridge, which connects to DC at the Jefferson Memorial. Cars did 
> go across, bikes were stopped. I should have known better.  In addition to 
> blocking cyclists' way across the Potomac, I have never seen the trail as 
> crowded.  Since only about 2-3 miles of the trail were open, it seemed even 
> more congested.  I passed hundreds of walkers and runners.  I would hazard 
> a guess there were also a few hundred cyclists.  It was an obstacle course 
> to say the least.  I turned for home.
>  
> *Tuesday, March 31*
> What a difference a day makes.  Temperatures dropped into the low 50s.  I 
> rode early.  It was gray.  The Governors of Maryland and Virginia and the 
> DC Mayor all issued stay-at-home orders the prior afternoon -- exercising 
> outside while maintaining distance allowed.  This was a 12 mile ride from 
> my home around the U.S. Capitol and back.  A nice 12 miles.  In the about 
> one hour I rode, I saw 5 other cyclists.  There were almost no walkers or 
> runners.  While I did not make it to the Tidal Basin on any of these rides, 
> I never intended to.  This morning's ride was fabulous.  Riding down 
> Pennsylvania Avenue, up the Mall, through Georgetown, and home and I 
> virtually had the roads and paths to myself.  While I loved the ride, I 
> hate the reason for this good fortune.
>
> *MIT Atlantis Report*
> As noted, I purchased a new MIT Atlantis a month ago.  It joined my other 
> Riv bikes,  a Toyo A. Homer Hilsen and a Rohloff-converted Simpleone. My 
> wife rides a Betty Foy.   I bought the Atlantis hoping it would become my 
> "one" bike.  If it does, I plan to pass on my other bikes.  It is the first 
> new bike I have purchased in years so I was able to spec all the components.
>
> What to say about its ride?  To begin with, it has taken much of the month 
> to get it dialed in.  Adjusting the seat and handlebars to the correct 
> heights, for-aft positions and tilt.  Adjusting and readjusting the 
> derailleurs and brakes.  Adding some personalization.  I think the seat 
> still needs to go a little further back and I still struggle to have a 
> completely smooth shifting rear derailleur.  These will come in time.
>
> I think talking about how a bike rides can be a little like listing the 
> attributes of a particular wine.  I am unable to divine the nuanced flavors 
> of wine -- berries, tobacco, leather, etc.  I'm also unable to  describe a 
> bike's ride with all the adjectives that other  cyclists can. As I've read 
> comments about the MIT Atlantis, even before I got it, I worried it would 
> be sluggish, that it wouldn't quickly and safely react.  I worried it would 
> be heavy.  I worried it m

[RBW] Re: Fortunate Timing -- My New MIT Atlantis

[Steve Cole]

John,

You are correct.  According to the specs, there might be some shifting 
problems.  Thus far, I have not found the problems you have noted, 
large/large or small/small.  I am still trying to work through shifting 
issues in the midrange where there is some hesitation in upshifting 
particularly.  At times, I find I need to shift up two cogs and down one. 
 Obviously, this is not what I want.  I'm sure this issue can be addressed. 
 With the need for social distance, it's hard to get others to take a look 
right now.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Saturday, March 21, 2020 at 11:07:35 PM UTC-4, John Hawrylak wrote:
>
> Steve
>
> The Actual Wrap Capacity you have is 49T, based on your 44/24 rings and 
> 11/40 rear (20 + 29 =49).  The RD-M772 is designed for Wrap Capacity of 
> 45T.  The Actual Wrap exceeds the Design. 
>
> Does it shift to all cogs in the small and large rings, or do you plan on 
> avoiding certain combos like Large/Large and Small/Small??  I recall 
> Sheldon saying the Design Wrap is conservative and most RDs can wrap more
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ 
>

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[RBW] Re: Fortunate Timing -- My New MIT Atlantis

[Steve Cole]

Here they are:



On Friday, March 20, 2020 at 1:36:28 PM UTC-4, Applegate wrote:
>
> Looking GOOD! I would *love* to see some close-up shots on the fender 
> clearance at the frame and fork, as I'm also looking for an aluminum fender 
> to put on my MIT Atlantis 55.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alex
> Berkeley, CA
>
> On Friday, 20 March 2020 05:17:04 UTC-7, Steve Cole wrote:
>>
>> As we’ve all no doubt discovered, social isolation, plain and simple, is 
>> not fun.  Going for long walks or rides is a wonderful antidote.  For me, 
>> these rides have been doubly fun on my new MIT Atlantis received just last 
>> week. James at Analog Cycles helped we work out the build details and his 
>> partner Candice built the bike.  I heartily recommend them.
>>
>>  
>>
>> Some background before going over the choices I made.   I’m 70 years 
>> old.  I still try to ride 3-4 times each week.  Generally, my rides average 
>> around 20 miles in length.  Most of my rides are on pavement but some are 
>> on paths, dirt roads, etc.  I wanted a bike that would serve my needs 
>> extremely well 90% of the time and would be adequate or better the other 
>> 10%.  Finally, I think of this as my last bike.  It may not be, but I 
>> approached it as if it were.  
>>
>>  
>>
>> I am a long-time aficionado of Rivendell bikes.  I own a Toyo A. Homer 
>> Hilsen and a SimpleOne (converted to a Rohloff hub).  My wife rides a Betty 
>> Foy.  Assuming my new Atlantis meets my goals, I’ll be passing my other 
>> bikes along to others.  To start with, I like the classic Rivendell look of 
>> silver components. In addition, my component choices reflect some elements 
>> of my other RBW bikes.  Other choices were influenced by James at 
>> Analog.  Most will consider this a high-end build.  In the end, since I 
>> approached it as my last bike, I tended to avoid making compromises.
>>
>>  
>>
>> *Frameset: *MIT Atlantis 55 cm, 700c wheels
>>
>> My AHH is 59 cm and my SimpleOne is 58 cm.  Not surprisingly, I expected 
>> to ride a 59 cm MIT Atlantis.  The geometry of the new longer seat stay/top 
>> tube MIT Atlantis is such that the shorter seat tube is right on point for 
>> me.  Before I understood this, I bought a 59 cm, used (I love the look with 
>> the rainbow second top tube).  Thanks to James, however, I switched to a 
>> new 55 cm and the seller of the 59 cm was kind enough to take it back.
>>
>>  
>>
>> *Headset*: Cane Creek 110 – EC30
>>
>> As is also the case with bottom brackets (see below), I dithered with the 
>> other classic headsets, Chris King, Phil Wood, Tange, etc.  James steered 
>> me (pun intended) to the Cane Creek.  I expect my children will use it well.
>>
>>  
>>
>> *Handlebars*:  Nitto Bullmoose
>>
>> These are the bars (with the incorporated stem) I have installed on my 
>> AHH.  I prefer bars for which the grip is like grasping a bar running 
>> parallel to me rather than shaking hands with a bar that is running 
>> alongside me (I sold my Albatrosses some time ago).  Personal 
>> preference.  With a 34-degree sweep, these are just right.  In addition, 
>> the extra extension running in front gives me a place to attach my 
>> handlebar bag and phone while preserving a second location for my hands 
>> close to the stem when I’m climbing.
>>
>>  
>>
>> *Brakes:*  Paul Motolites with Paul Love 2.5 Levers
>>
>> I want brakes with a very firm action – no squishiness.  Shimano brakes 
>> have always seemed overly squishy.  With these brakes, I now have Paul 
>> brakes on all three bikes, Racers on my AHH, Touring Cantilevers on my SO 
>> and these Motolites on my MIT Atlantis.  I swear by all three.
>>
>>  
>>
>> *Drivetrain: *Rear* - *Shimano XT RD-M772 Shadow 9-speed; Front – 
>> Shimano CX-70;
>>
>> Shifters: Shimano XT Rapid Fire 3x9; Crankset – 
>> Middleburn RS7, 170 mm, 44/32/24;
>>
>> Cassette – Sunrace M9, 9-speed wide ratio 11T-40T
>>
>> The choices here reflect my age and conditioning as much as any other 
>> components.  First, I wanted a drivetrain that would help me ease my way up 
>> some significant hills but also allow me to maintain good speed/cadence on 
>> the flats.  I chose the RapidFire shifters, which are also on my AHH, 
>> because I simply like precise, easy shifting.  James encouraged me to get 
>> the Middleburn cranks noting they are beautiful, extremely strong, 
>> English-made.  They are available as a triple and h

[RBW] Re: Fortunate Timing -- My New MIT Atlantis

[Steve Cole]

Does anyone know why my photos are posting upside down?

On Friday, March 20, 2020 at 8:17:04 AM UTC-4, Steve Cole wrote:
>
> As we’ve all no doubt discovered, social isolation, plain and simple, is 
> not fun.  Going for long walks or rides is a wonderful antidote.  For me, 
> these rides have been doubly fun on my new MIT Atlantis received just last 
> week. James at Analog Cycles helped we work out the build details and his 
> partner Candice built the bike.  I heartily recommend them.
>
>  
>
> Some background before going over the choices I made.   I’m 70 years 
> old.  I still try to ride 3-4 times each week.  Generally, my rides average 
> around 20 miles in length.  Most of my rides are on pavement but some are 
> on paths, dirt roads, etc.  I wanted a bike that would serve my needs 
> extremely well 90% of the time and would be adequate or better the other 
> 10%.  Finally, I think of this as my last bike.  It may not be, but I 
> approached it as if it were.  
>
>  
>
> I am a long-time aficionado of Rivendell bikes.  I own a Toyo A. Homer 
> Hilsen and a SimpleOne (converted to a Rohloff hub).  My wife rides a Betty 
> Foy.  Assuming my new Atlantis meets my goals, I’ll be passing my other 
> bikes along to others.  To start with, I like the classic Rivendell look of 
> silver components. In addition, my component choices reflect some elements 
> of my other RBW bikes.  Other choices were influenced by James at 
> Analog.  Most will consider this a high-end build.  In the end, since I 
> approached it as my last bike, I tended to avoid making compromises.
>
>  
>
> *Frameset: *MIT Atlantis 55 cm, 700c wheels
>
> My AHH is 59 cm and my SimpleOne is 58 cm.  Not surprisingly, I expected 
> to ride a 59 cm MIT Atlantis.  The geometry of the new longer seat stay/top 
> tube MIT Atlantis is such that the shorter seat tube is right on point for 
> me.  Before I understood this, I bought a 59 cm, used (I love the look with 
> the rainbow second top tube).  Thanks to James, however, I switched to a 
> new 55 cm and the seller of the 59 cm was kind enough to take it back.
>
>  
>
> *Headset*: Cane Creek 110 – EC30
>
> As is also the case with bottom brackets (see below), I dithered with the 
> other classic headsets, Chris King, Phil Wood, Tange, etc.  James steered 
> me (pun intended) to the Cane Creek.  I expect my children will use it well.
>
>  
>
> *Handlebars*:  Nitto Bullmoose
>
> These are the bars (with the incorporated stem) I have installed on my 
> AHH.  I prefer bars for which the grip is like grasping a bar running 
> parallel to me rather than shaking hands with a bar that is running 
> alongside me (I sold my Albatrosses some time ago).  Personal 
> preference.  With a 34-degree sweep, these are just right.  In addition, 
> the extra extension running in front gives me a place to attach my 
> handlebar bag and phone while preserving a second location for my hands 
> close to the stem when I’m climbing.
>
>  
>
> *Brakes:*  Paul Motolites with Paul Love 2.5 Levers
>
> I want brakes with a very firm action – no squishiness.  Shimano brakes 
> have always seemed overly squishy.  With these brakes, I now have Paul 
> brakes on all three bikes, Racers on my AHH, Touring Cantilevers on my SO 
> and these Motolites on my MIT Atlantis.  I swear by all three.
>
>  
>
> *Drivetrain: *Rear* - *Shimano XT RD-M772 Shadow 9-speed; Front – Shimano 
> CX-70;
>
> Shifters: Shimano XT Rapid Fire 3x9; Crankset – 
> Middleburn RS7, 170 mm, 44/32/24;
>
> Cassette – Sunrace M9, 9-speed wide ratio 11T-40T
>
> The choices here reflect my age and conditioning as much as any other 
> components.  First, I wanted a drivetrain that would help me ease my way up 
> some significant hills but also allow me to maintain good speed/cadence on 
> the flats.  I chose the RapidFire shifters, which are also on my AHH, 
> because I simply like precise, easy shifting.  James encouraged me to get 
> the Middleburn cranks noting they are beautiful, extremely strong, 
> English-made.  They are available as a triple and have a replaceable 
> spider.  He was right on all accounts – no regrets.
>
>  
>
> *Bottom Bracket: * SKF 110 mm
>
> Not much to say here.  I wanted a trouble-free, sealed BB.  Everything 
> I’ve read suggested this BB is more than up to the task.
>
>  
>
> *Wheels:*  Rims - Velocity Quill 700c; Spokes – Sapim Race; Front Hub – 
> SONdeluxe Widebody 
>
> Dynamo; Rear Hub – Bitex BX103R; Tires – Rene Herse 
> Antelope Hill EL Tubeless
>
> I always think of Grant Petersen’s admonition about the cheapest and most 
> worthwhile component available is ai

[RBW] Re: Fortunate Timing -- My New MIT Atlantis

[Steve Cole]

The bag is a Gilles Berthoud GB905.  It's attached to the Handlebar with a 
GB Click-Fix Handlebar Mount, which makes it easy to remove and take with 
me when I lock the bike.

On Friday, March 20, 2020 at 10:12:46 AM UTC-4, lambbo wrote:
>
> That is an incredible bike, a dream bike really! 
>
> What is that super practical looking (and handsome) handlebar bag?   
>
> Quill rims looks so great.
>
> On Friday, March 20, 2020 at 8:17:04 AM UTC-4, Steve Cole wrote:
>>
>> As we’ve all no doubt discovered, social isolation, plain and simple, is 
>> not fun.  Going for long walks or rides is a wonderful antidote.  For me, 
>> these rides have been doubly fun on my new MIT Atlantis received just last 
>> week. James at Analog Cycles helped we work out the build details and his 
>> partner Candice built the bike.  I heartily recommend them.
>>
>>  
>>
>> Some background before going over the choices I made.   I’m 70 years 
>> old.  I still try to ride 3-4 times each week.  Generally, my rides average 
>> around 20 miles in length.  Most of my rides are on pavement but some are 
>> on paths, dirt roads, etc.  I wanted a bike that would serve my needs 
>> extremely well 90% of the time and would be adequate or better the other 
>> 10%.  Finally, I think of this as my last bike.  It may not be, but I 
>> approached it as if it were.  
>>
>>  
>>
>> I am a long-time aficionado of Rivendell bikes.  I own a Toyo A. Homer 
>> Hilsen and a SimpleOne (converted to a Rohloff hub).  My wife rides a Betty 
>> Foy.  Assuming my new Atlantis meets my goals, I’ll be passing my other 
>> bikes along to others.  To start with, I like the classic Rivendell look of 
>> silver components. In addition, my component choices reflect some elements 
>> of my other RBW bikes.  Other choices were influenced by James at 
>> Analog.  Most will consider this a high-end build.  In the end, since I 
>> approached it as my last bike, I tended to avoid making compromises.
>>
>>  
>>
>> *Frameset: *MIT Atlantis 55 cm, 700c wheels
>>
>> My AHH is 59 cm and my SimpleOne is 58 cm.  Not surprisingly, I expected 
>> to ride a 59 cm MIT Atlantis.  The geometry of the new longer seat stay/top 
>> tube MIT Atlantis is such that the shorter seat tube is right on point for 
>> me.  Before I understood this, I bought a 59 cm, used (I love the look with 
>> the rainbow second top tube).  Thanks to James, however, I switched to a 
>> new 55 cm and the seller of the 59 cm was kind enough to take it back.
>>
>>  
>>
>> *Headset*: Cane Creek 110 – EC30
>>
>> As is also the case with bottom brackets (see below), I dithered with the 
>> other classic headsets, Chris King, Phil Wood, Tange, etc.  James steered 
>> me (pun intended) to the Cane Creek.  I expect my children will use it well.
>>
>>  
>>
>> *Handlebars*:  Nitto Bullmoose
>>
>> These are the bars (with the incorporated stem) I have installed on my 
>> AHH.  I prefer bars for which the grip is like grasping a bar running 
>> parallel to me rather than shaking hands with a bar that is running 
>> alongside me (I sold my Albatrosses some time ago).  Personal 
>> preference.  With a 34-degree sweep, these are just right.  In addition, 
>> the extra extension running in front gives me a place to attach my 
>> handlebar bag and phone while preserving a second location for my hands 
>> close to the stem when I’m climbing.
>>
>>  
>>
>> *Brakes:*  Paul Motolites with Paul Love 2.5 Levers
>>
>> I want brakes with a very firm action – no squishiness.  Shimano brakes 
>> have always seemed overly squishy.  With these brakes, I now have Paul 
>> brakes on all three bikes, Racers on my AHH, Touring Cantilevers on my SO 
>> and these Motolites on my MIT Atlantis.  I swear by all three.
>>
>>  
>>
>> *Drivetrain: *Rear* - *Shimano XT RD-M772 Shadow 9-speed; Front – 
>> Shimano CX-70;
>>
>> Shifters: Shimano XT Rapid Fire 3x9; Crankset – 
>> Middleburn RS7, 170 mm, 44/32/24;
>>
>> Cassette – Sunrace M9, 9-speed wide ratio 11T-40T
>>
>> The choices here reflect my age and conditioning as much as any other 
>> components.  First, I wanted a drivetrain that would help me ease my way up 
>> some significant hills but also allow me to maintain good speed/cadence on 
>> the flats.  I chose the RapidFire shifters, which are also on my AHH, 
>> because I simply like precise, easy shifting.  James encouraged me to get 
>> the Middleburn cranks noting they are be

[RBW] ISO: Sackville Trunksack

[Steve Cole]

Hi,

I'm looking for a Sackville Trunksack in gray fabric if someone finds they 
have one, are not using it, and would like to pass it on.  I would be 
interested in other colors if gray doesn't turn up.  Thanks.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Vaughn's custom for sale

[Steve Cole]

Mark,

Here, here!  I couldn't agree with you more.  As a fairly long time RBW 
customer, I have always found them to bend over backwards to meet whatever 
needs I have.  I highly value them and am grateful every day and every ride 
that Grant created this business, these bikes, and this community  -- the 
one we all are a part of, which includes him and all those who work at RBW 
too.

Steve (deeply grateful for RBW) Cole
Arlington, VA

On Sunday, March 1, 2020 at 6:14:14 AM UTC-7, Mark Roland wrote:
>
> I had the same reaction as Hugh and John to this thread. 
>
> I understand this point of view:
> *What other company of their size gets such sincere and direct feedback 
> and with little to no expense for re-engagement?*
> But the tone of this thread was, to me, more like non-constructive, 
> non-helpful criticism. 
>
> As a long-time Rivendell customer, I've had a couple of interactions that 
> were less than perfect. But that is the nature of most relationships. And 
> the overwhelming majority of the time the company has gone above and 
> beyond. 
>
> Two recent examples.
>
> I pre-ordered one of the Cheviot sweaters. It came, it's beautiful. (I've 
> been trying to find time to do a post about it.) I consider it a fantastic 
> bargain. And then Rivendell decides they, I don't know? made too much money 
> on it, so they send everyone who bought the sweater $25 gift certificates. 
> Point me to another company that would do that. I would like to patronize 
> them. (Funny enough, the "mistake" element entered here too, as they 
> initially sent out certificates for $20 instead of $25. I had only the 
> slightest fleeting thought of pointing out this "error." ) I get that it is 
> partly marketing to a segment of its business that will order something 
> sight unseen, and the certificate could potentially be a sales stimulant, 
> but still.
>
> Second example. I bought a second-hand Clementine to replace the one I had 
> to sell for financial reasons a while back. There was something not quite 
> right, so I called Riv to discuss and see if my idea to fix it made sense. 
> They offered a brand-new replacement frame and fork. On a four-year old 
> bike. Of which I was not the original owner.
>
> I'm not saying nobody should ever criticize Rivendell. But this was about 
> a one-off sale, a bike where either communication went awry or the builder 
> had a bad day, or whatever. And Rivendell laid out the various "defects" 
> and offered the bike for sale. Why that needed to have feedback is 
> questionable to me. But then it spirals into finding stuff hidden in the 
> warehouse (see the Crust basement sales on Instagram; this is a feature not 
> a bug!) the cost of Riv customs, and how perverse it is that a Rivendell 
> employee can afford a Rivendell. Maybe Rivendell customs cost a lot because 
> they pay the builder and painter what their skills are worth, then make a 
> bit on top of that as the designer and facilitator. Maybe a Rivendell 
> employee can afford a Riv because they get a company discount, and because 
> the company pays a living wage.
>
> Most on this list are, by definition, at least slightly obsessed with 
> bicycles. Between this type of consumer, and the chance consumer who likes 
> "quality" and happens to hear about or see a Rivendell in the wild, that's 
> a niche market within a niche market within a hurting industry. Most people 
> thinking of buying a bicycle would think a Clem Smith Jr. is too expensive. 
> Those that don't, if they had heard of a Clem Smith Jr. would mostly scoff 
> at it and get a carbon machine.
>
>  Anyone considering a custom bicycle is aware of other options and price 
> points, so I'm not sure that falls under constructive criticism either. 
> That would imply Rivendell getting this info and thinking about changing 
> its pricing structure due to the feedback. I think its safe to say 
> Rivendell charges what they need to charge for customs and still adhere to 
> their business tenets. I also find it odd that many are quick to criticize 
> Rivendell's financial woes, yet find the price of a custom too high. 
>
> Anyway, end of ramble. Athough it sometimes feels like piling on, I do 
> appreciate the various viewpoints. (I just wanted to make sure the correct 
> one got out there;^)
>
> On Saturday, February 29, 2020 at 7:57:05 PM UTC-5, Hugh Flynn wrote:
>>
>> Ok, fair enough, but I don't recall shushing anyone or implying one needs 
>> to pass a Riv loyalty test. I simply find the tone of outrage and insult 
>> over a frame being sold at cost a bit odd. I'm guessing the the builder and 
>> painter got paid. It's a custom. They don't come at scale prices.  
>>
>> If I were selling it, I might have knocked a bit off for the paint chip, 
>> but I'm not selling it or buying it, so my thoughts on the matter are 
>> pretty meaningless. That said, I'm the fist to ridicule Rapha and others 
>> for "epic" marketing and bro-tuned adds - and I'm about as far away 

[RBW] Re: Clem Inventory

[Steve Cole]

It's always worth a call to RBW as they sometimes find the exact thing you 
are looking for that had been out of the way.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Saturday, February 29, 2020 at 4:13:08 PM UTC-7, DHans wrote:
>
> I could call Riv and ask but I thought I’d check here first. Does anyone 
> know when they will have the Clem L completes or frames back in stock? 
> Doug

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[RBW] Re: Vaughn's custom for sale

[Steve Cole]

Dave, 

This may not provide a definitive answer to your question regarding filet 
brazed BB vs TIG welded, but here's the RBW website's description of MIT 
Atlantis construction:

"Underneath, the investment-cast Rivendell lugs and custom drawn Silver 
tubes are the same. All frames are brazed and welded to the highest 
standards, with samples of each new production passing the rigorous EN 
tests."

Others with more direct knowledge may add to this.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 4:00:12 PM UTC-7, Dave Small wrote:
>
> Hi Conway,
>
> I thought the MIT Atlantis had a TIG'd bottom bracket.  Are you sure it's 
> filet-brazed?  If yes, was the first batch TIG'd and the new batch 
> filet-brazed?  I was told by an owner of one from the first batch that it 
> was TIG'd, which is the main reason I didn't buy one.  
>
> Dave
> Boston/Indy
>
> On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 1:11:41 PM UTC-5, Conway Bennett wrote:
>>
>> The new Atlantis and Crust Nor'easter both are lugged with a filet brazed 
>> bottom bracket.  I assume it reduces the cost but is it functionally 
>> better, worse, or the same as a lugged bb shell? 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Drop bar on MIT Atlantis?

[Steve Cole]

Hi John,

To start, I am far from being as expert as many of the regulars in this 
discussion group.  That said, I have three Riv bikes now and have an MIT 
Atlantis that will be coming my way in the next few weeks.  When I 
purchased my first Riv bike, an A. Homer Hilsen, I switched out the 
handlebars from Nitto Noodles drop bars to Nitto Albatrosses.  I also found 
that drops no longer worked for me -- I found myself only riding on the 
tops of the bars and the brake hoods.  I tried the Albatross since so many 
in the group and Grant and other RBW staff spoke glowingly about Albatross 
comfort.  I never felt it worked for me.

What I found to be less than comfortable is the "handshake" grip that one 
uses with the Albatross bars (and the drops of drop bars).  Prior to 
discovering RBW, I owned a Scott Sub 20, a very comfortable bike.  It had 
no name bars that were relatively flat that were slightly (20-30 degrees) 
swept back.  They were very comfortable. Rather than a handshake grip, 
these bars called for a grip like I was grasping a bar that was parallel to 
the floor in front of me.  I never felt aches or pains.  

After some thought about my Albatross bars, I concluded I needed to trade 
them out for less swept back handlebars.  I chose the Nitto Bullmoose for 
my AHH.  It provided the comfort that I wanted and hoped for.

When I ordered my MIT Atlantis (a 55cm, 700c), I also wanted a slightly 
swept back bar.  I spec'd the Nitto Bullmoose but was told by James Johnson 
at Analog Cycles (which is building the bike for me) that the Bullmoose 
would not work for what I wanted because of the long reach of the MIT 
Atlantis.  He recommended a shorter stem (80mm) and either a Nitto Wavie or 
Velo Orange Curvy handlebar.  These are similar in most respects and I've 
ended up with the Curvy.  I'll be riding it in a few weeks and can let you 
know my experience.

In the meantime, if you are not familiar with the WhatBars website, I 
recommend it highly as it allow one to compare the geometry of almost any 
handlebar you might want.  Here's the link:  www.whatbars.com.  

Good luck on your search.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

p.s. When my MIT Atlantis arrives, I still plan to see whether a Nitto 
Bullmoose might work for me.

On Wednesday, February 26, 2020 at 5:00:13 AM UTC-7, John G. wrote:
>
> I have a bunch of parts in need of a 700c frame, so I’ve been pondering my 
> next build. I miss my old Atlantis, though I traded it for my Roadeo, which 
> I love. I’m thinking about getting a MIT Atlantis, but the reach on the MIT 
> model seems longer than the older iterations. Albatrosses aren’t for me—I 
> get wrist pain on longer rides. Has anyone set up their MIT Atlantis with 
> drops or Albastaches? Are they really more intended for bars like the 
> Albastache?

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Presale

[Steve Cole]

I tried to post the Riv Appaloosa Pre-Order webpage but no luck.  The 
website says the sizes are:  48, 51, 54, 57, and 60 cm.  In an earlier 
email from Riv, Will (perhaps it was Grant) noted that the geometry is 
virtually identical to that of the new MIT Atlantis except colors and sizes 
differ.  The MIT Atlantis sizes are: 47, 50 53, 55, 59, 62 cm.  If one can 
live with the color, size can be dialed in better with these choices than 
for many other Riv frames.

On Sunday, January 26, 2020 at 12:04:09 PM UTC-7, Bill F wrote:
>
> Appaloosa presale is up today.   
>
> I pulled the trigger on a blue 60 cm for my first Rivendell.

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Presale

[Steve Cole]

Here's the preorder sizing on the Riv website:



   - 


   1. 
   2. 
   3. 
   4. 
   5. 
   6. 
   7. 
   8. 
   9. 
   10. 
   11. 
   12. 
   13. 
   14. 
   15. 


   - 
   

   - 
   


2020 Appaloosa Framset - Preorder

$1,500.00

Size
46CM PREORDER
51CM PREORDER
54CM PREORDER
57CM PREORDER
60CM PREORDER

On Sunday, January 26, 2020 at 12:04:09 PM UTC-7, Bill F wrote:
>
> Appaloosa presale is up today.   
>
> I pulled the trigger on a blue 60 cm for my first Rivendell.

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[RBW] Re: Just Test Ride

[Steve Cole]

Hey Mike,

Thanks for writing this. I have a Toyo Homer, a Simpleone shod with a 
Rohloff hub and have ordered an MIT Atlantis.  I’m wondering how you 
compare the rides of the Homer and Atlantis. Thanks.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Friday, January 24, 2020 at 3:06:30 PM UTC-7, Mike Packard wrote:
>
> Howdy
>
> SO back in 2015-ish, I discovered Rivendell and became fascinated with the 
> pictures and writings and everything, but never actually met one in person. 
> I really wanted one, but was reluctant to order some expensive bike 
> sight-unseen. In 2016 I made it to A1 Cyclery (now Psychic Derailleur) in 
> Indy. It was the first time I got to actually ride different models in 
> person and nerd out on all the little details I'd been reading about for a 
> year. I was quite enamored of Chris' Homer. When I rode that bike--only 
> inside the shop as it was nasty outside--I got a big stupid smile on my 
> face and thought OH I GET IT NOW. I bought a 52 Clem H. 
>
> ANYWAY, if you're like me and have read all about Rivbikes and want to get 
> one but haven't had the chance to ride one and are near Austin TX, send me 
> a DM and you can try one or more of mine. 
>
> OR if enough people are interested maybe we could have some kind of RBW 
> meetup derby.
>
> I somewhat-unintentionally now have 4 Rivs in various configurations, all 
> of which more-or-less fit my 87 PBH.
>
> - 61 Waterford Homer with albatross bars
> - 59 Clem L with bosco bars
> - 57 Roadini with noodle bars
> - 56 MIT Atlantis with bullmoose bars
>
> Mike 
> Austin TX
>

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[RBW] Re: New 55cm 700c Atlantis. Same as my 55cm 700c Appaloosa?

[Steve Cole]

Hi,

While I did not do a column by column error check, the data on 
bikeinsight's chart for Appaloosa rake is off by a factor of 10.  Where it 
shows a rake of 54 mm, it should be 5.4 mm.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Sunday, January 19, 2020 at 9:05:29 AM UTC-7, j.schwartz wrote:
>
> I know these bikes are essentially interchangeable , but I thought the 
> difference was in wheelsize preference...  Now that they are both 700c, I'm 
> just curious is one being moved into a different category than the other?
> The published Geo numbers are slightly different, but are they different 
> enough to be two different bikes?
> I suspect a 2º difference in HT angle is sufficient to affect the handling 
> of a bike, what about 1/2º difference in ST angle?
> Are they both touring bikes?
> Geo below
>
> [image: Screen Shot 2020-01-19 at 11.02.38 AM.png]
>
>

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[RBW] Advice Needed: Tires

[Steve Cole]

I want to replace the tires I currently am running on a bike I use only 
about a quarter of the time.  The bike is a 1990s era Bianchi Axis.  It is 
currently set up with 700c x 37 Schwalbe Marathons (the original).  I want 
to go a size larger which I believe the bike will accommodate.  I also want 
a suppler tire.  I ride mostly in the city, on paved country roads and 
occasionally on fairly smooth dirt roads.  I've considered Rene Herse 
Barlow Pass, Continental Contact Speed or Schwalbe G-One Speed.  I'm 
interest in any views you have on these tires or others you would strongly 
recommend.  Many thanks.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA 

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[RBW] Re: Can we talk about long wheelbases?

[Steve Cole]

Matt,

No doubt your height affects the feeling of any bike you ride.  I was a tad 
surprised at your statement  that 61 and 62 cm frames fit you.  My surprise 
is related to my recent experience purchasing an MIT Atlantis.  I already 
own both a Homer (59 cm) and a Simpleton (58 cm) and thought, naturally, 
that the 59 cm MIT Atlantis would be perfect, especially since I love 
virtually everything about my Homer.  In a word, I was WRONG.  With the 
more stretched out geometry of the MIT Atlantis and the greater angle of 
the top tube, It turns out I had erred when I purchased a 59 cm Atlantis 
(from a fellow lister who cry kindly returned by payment before I received 
the frame).  I would note that I love the look of the 59 cm MIT Atlantis 
with its arched double top tube.  Alas, a slightly less beautiful 55 cm 
(700c), which I am assured is spot on for size, is being built up for me. 
 I can't wait to get it, ride it and see whether I no longer look to my 
Homer as my daily driver.  Good luck.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Thursday, January 9, 2020 at 2:39:03 PM UTC-7, Matt Dreher wrote:
>
> Fair, I was a bit rushed writing that. I think it's a sort of a modern 
> vernacular thing, using 'you' where one should really be using 'one.' This 
> should make it clearer.
>
> *I don't buy the line that wheelbase doesn't affect handling 
> significantly. I have an 90s road bike with 41cm stays that's exhausting to 
> spend a long while on. The handling feels significantly more confident to 
> me on that bike. I know that one can take the same lines but taking the 
> same line on the long-stayed bike requires a good bit more lean than the 
> other. It makes me a lot more hesitant to take corners as quickly on loose 
> surfaces. Of course once I've lost traction it's easier to control and 
> recover from skids with long chainstays but I'd rather not lose traction in 
> the first place.*
>
>
> Something I've considered that may be coloring my perceptions: my height. 
> I'm 6'5", proportioned just so that 61 to 62cm frames are what fits me 
> right. Leaning further when one is tall must necessarily put more lateral 
> force on the tire, right? It seems that there's just more at stake when 
> your center of mass is further from the ground. Long wheelbases mean that 
> you necessarily must lean further. Maybe the confidence I feel on the SWB 
> bike is just a matter of not having to dig as far into my reserve of grip?
>
> On Thursday, January 9, 2020 at 1:42:11 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> Hey Matt! I got confused in your middle paragraph. Too many pronouns that 
>> seem reversed of what I thought you were saying for me to follow. Would you 
>> mind clarifying please?
>>
>> I've not heard anyone say wheelbase doesn't affect handling, 
>> significantly or otherwise. The entire experience I've had with longer 
>> wheel base is significantly better handling. It DOES require adjustment and 
>> different lines. There may be a learning curve, but a sharp lad could 
>> easily suss that out and not need to slow down, and likely go yet faster if 
>> desired. Grin.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> On Thursday, January 9, 2020 at 12:25:24 PM UTC-7, Matt Dreher wrote:
>>>
>>> I finally concluded that the chainstays on my 61 Roadini are just a hair 
>>> too long at 46cm. I'm not opposed to longer chainstays, it's just that it 
>>> would be nice if there were a Rivendell option other than the Roadeo that 
>>> had slightly more traditional road geometry. If they had capped it at 44cm 
>>> for the large sizes or specced horizontal dropouts to allow a bit of 
>>> adjustability I probably wouldn't have a real issue with it. 
>>>
>>> I don't buy the line that wheelbase doesn't affect handling 
>>> significantly. I have an 90s road bike with 41cm stays that's exhausting to 
>>> spend a long while on. The handling feels significantly more confident to 
>>> me on that bike. I know that you can take the same lines but taking the 
>>> same line on the long-stayed bike requires a good bit more lean than the 
>>> other. It makes me a lot more hesitant to take corners as quickly on loose 
>>> surfaces. Of course once you've lost traction it's easier to control and 
>>> recover from skids with long chainstays but I'd rather not lose traction in 
>>> the first place, you know?
>>>
>>> As someone who adjusts their bars below the saddle I'm also not really 
>>> representative of the typical Rivendell rider, though. I suppose that at 
>>> this point complaining about no shorter-chainstay'd Rivendells is like 
>>> complaining that Cervelo doesn't have a stee

[RBW] Re: Can we talk about long wheelbases?

[Steve Cole]

This is among the most enjoyable, interesting and useful threads I've read 
on  RBWOB.  Thanks to Leah and all those who she has motivated to 
contribute.  Following Joe's and Steve's responses to the idea that many of 
us are obsessive/compulsive about our Riv bikes, I plead guilty.  And I 
hope my sentence is to be force-fed even more information, data, videos, 
etc.  My wife thinks I spend more time thinking about riding my Rivs than 
actually riding them  She may be correct.  As the same time, Thinking about 
cycling gives me almost as much, if not as much pleasure, as riding.  It 
allows me to fill more of my day pleasurably than I could if I rode and did 
not obsess about it.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 5:43:56 PM UTC-7, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> I have wanted to start this thread for weeks. Fearing controversy, not 
> desiring to start fights, and worried that staff at Riv will read this, I 
> never mustered up the guts. But the long wheelbase bike topic has come up 
> in several threads now, and maybe we should just have the discussion. 
> People are wanting to buy these bikes, and since most don’t live near a 
> dealer, we need to help each other out regarding bike fit. 
>
> I got a new Clem L (unless you have been living under a ROCK you know this 
> since it’s all I talk about. Go ahead, I dare you to ask me about the color 
> of paint that it has. ) and it’s nothing like the other Clems I’ve known 
> and loved. Why? Because it has an even longer wheelbase than than its 
> long-wheelbase predecessors. 
>
> Recently, Rivendell pointed us to an Ask Me Anything with Grant on Reddit. 
> It was a wall of text and I read it. Folks asked their most pressing 
> questions and Grant graciously answered them. Over and over and over again 
> long wheelbase bikes were brought up, and Grant offered his opinion. Longer 
> bikes are more stable, Cadillac-like, comfortable, etc. The opposite of 
> twitchy, short-wheelbase bikes. We know this and most of us will accept it. 
>
> BUT...what I am dying to know is this: how long can you go before it is no 
> longer an improvement? 
>
> Example: My 52 Clementine was much more comfortable than my 55 Betty Foy. 
> Like it was tailor-made for me alone. The Betz was totally fine, no knocks 
> against it, but the Clementine was just more plush. So, I agree with Grant 
> - longer was better. 
>
> The problem came with my Clem L, the 2019 version that had had its 
> geometry changed. I didn’t know I was getting a different bike. I was 
> surprised when I had to buy (several) different stems and a new long 
> wheelbase bar for my Saris rack. It’s been a lot of adjustment, and I’ve 
> been frustrated. If I understand correctly, several Rivendell models have 
> been lengthened as of late. 
>
> The burning question I have: Can anyone tell us if the new longer bikes 
> are better or worse than the previous (also long) versions? We know the 
> theory, what of the reality? I’m thinking especially of the Clems, as they 
> were already SO long. But I think Atlantis people will also have something 
> to say... 
>
> I wanted to have this discussion because I genuinely want to know how the 
> newest long bikes are working out for folks. But I also want to let others 
> know that there are some things to consider if you get one of these new 
> iterations. Will a 52 Clem fit on public transport? I think no. Will it fit 
> on your vehicle hitch bike rack? Mine won’t. Will it be difficult for you 
> to park your long bike in a public rack? Can you back your bike out of your 
> garage/shed easily at this new length? What if you are right between sizes? 
> Rivendell would have you go up, I’m not sure I wouldn’t have done better on 
> the next size down. 
>
> Of course we can have this discussion and keep it kind, can’t we, Friends. 
> It would be so horrible if Rivendell staff read this and saw a lot of 
> inflammatory remarks. I think we’re allowed to have a decent and 
> informative chat, and undoubtedly some people will find it helpful. Plus, 
> maybe Rivendell will find it useful. If the extra long bikes aren’t meeting 
> expectations, maybe there will be changes to future bikes. 
>
> I did put 9 miles riding up a mountain with groceries in my front basket 
> on the new Clem L, so I’m working our relationship! 
> Leah 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Experiences with Atlantis

[Steve Cole]

Please do not send private messages on this topic.  There are many who 
would benefit from and appreciate the views shared.


On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 1:03:29 PM UTC-7, Robert Gardner wrote:
>
> Hi all --
>
> So, I'm thinking about a touring/gravel/all-road'y type bike I can put 
> gigantic tires on, load up if I want, or not. I'm not a small person. 
>
> I'm also thinking about waiting for Crust to re-up their line, but I have 
> a Quickbeam and a Roadini and I smile every time I get on either one of 
> them (for very different reasons). 
>
> So, I'm predisposed towards building something I can ride from DC to 
> Montreal if I wanted to, hitting every gravel road on the way. 
>
> Who has ridden an Atlantis? Who has toured on one? I'd appreciate your 
> impressions -- AND -- if someone can talk me out of it (maybe I should by a 
> Homer) 
>
> Appreciate your experiences here all -- feel free to ping on list or off. 
>
> Happy New Year --
>
> Robert
>

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[RBW] Re: Speedometer apps

[Steve Cole]

Joe,

Some years ago, I bought a Topeak case for my phone that is structured to 
connect to a holder on my handlebars.  I love the fact that I can easily 
and stably  mount my phone.  Topeak, at the time offered a speedometer app 
that was very simple.  This app -- Panobike+ in the current version -- has 
been updated for the iPhone.  I am not able to speak to its availability 
for Android phones.  If you find it available, it is simple and clear. Good 
luck.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Tuesday, December 31, 2019 at 9:03:21 AM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I've downloaded a couple of these over the years and found them hard to 
> understand and reset after a ride (smartphone, dumbguy). What's good? I use 
> a Samsung S10+ Android. 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Components & Bags

[Steve Cole]

Thanks to everyone who purchased items.  Everything I thought would attract 
others' interests did.  So I am grateful.  What didn't sell now goes to my 
local bicycle charity.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Tuesday, December 3, 2019 at 1:26:00 PM UTC-5, Steve Cole wrote:
>
> Hi, TI'm cleaning out my parts/bags bin for the first time in years.  I 
> have several components and bags for sale.  Please feel free to PM me with 
> questions or to purchase items.  Prices do not include shipping.  Wherever 
> possible, items will be shipped in Postal Service flat rate boxes, the 
> cheapest way.  Oversize items, like handlebars will also be shipped USPS. 
>  Here a link to photos of these items:  
> https://share.icloud.com/photos/0YF2tSBunyv-_QyHrg74AtRnw
>
>  
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve Cole
>
> Arlington, Virginia
>
>
> Sugino XD2 Triple Crankset – brand new, never used – 48/36/26 - $125
>
> VP Adventure High Performance All-Mountain Pedals – brand new, never used 
> – $35
>
> MKS Sylvan Touring Pedals – brand new, never used - $15
>
> Nitto Noodle Handlebars – Model No. 177 Alloy – used very good condition – 
> 460 mm - $40
>
> Nitto Urban Riser Handlebars – Model No. B260AA Alloy Black – brand new, 
> never used – 480 mm - $25
>
> Nitto Albatross Handlebars – Model No. B352AA Alloy – 550 mm – used very 
> good condition -  $60
>
> Brooks B17 Saddle – Black, Steel Rails – Used, very good condition - $60
>
> Brooks B66 Saddle – Rare – Black, Steel Rails – used very good condition - 
> $45
>
> Nitto Seat Post – S65 Crystal Fellow – 27.2, 250 mm – nearly new Condition 
> -- $40
>
> Thompson Elite Seatpost – Black Model No. SP-E101 – 27.2, 330 mm – nearly 
> new condition - $40
>
> Dia-Compe Centerpull Brakeset – Silver – Model No. DC750 – used very good 
> condition – $25
>
> TRP Eurox Alloy Cantilever Brakeset – Silver – used very good condition -- 
> $50
>
> Mafac Tandem Brakeset – Silver – very used condition -- $20
>
> Shimano Bar End Shifters – Dura Ace 9-Speed – Used, scuffed, work 
> perfectly -- $30
>
> Suntour Barcon Bar End Shifters – friction – Well Used, work perfectly – 
> $40
>
> TRP Drop Bar Perforated Brake Levers – RRL Alloy – Black Hoods – Nearly 
> New – $50
>
> XLC Drop Bar Brake Levers – RL340L Alloy – Black Hoods – Nearly New -- $20
>
> Tektro Cross Brake Levers – RL726 Alloy – Silver/Black – Nearly New -- $20
>
> D+D Handlebar Mirror – Ultralite – Black -- nearly new -- $20
>
> Velo Orange Complete Cable Housings for both Brakes and Derailleurs – 
> Silver Metallic Braid – Unused -- $20/ both
>
> Sackville – Medium Shopsack – excellent used condition -- $45
>
> Sackville – XS Saddlesack – Olive – excellent used condition – $50
>
> V Brand (Rivendell’s Sackville Precursor) Grab Bag – Tan – very good used 
> condition -- $40 
>
> Minnehaha Barrel Saddle Bag – Black Canvas – Very good used condition -- 
> $15
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Components & Bags

[Steve Cole]

Hi,

Thanks to all who have purchased items I had for sale.  I am grateful.  I 
am also amazed how quickly people responded and how few times more than one 
person wanted an item, although one was very popular.  I've corrected a 
couple of errors and lowered most prices below. Whatever doesn't sell today 
goes to my local bicycle charity.  Here is what remains:

VP Adventure High Performance All-Mountain Pedals – brand new, never used – 
$35

MKS Sylvan Touring Pedals – brand new, never used - $15

Nitto Urban Riser Handlebars – Model No. B260AA Alloy Black – brand new, 
never used – 480 mm - $25

Thompson Elite Seatpost – Black Model No. SP-E101 – 27.2, 330 mm – nearly 
new condition - $35

TRP Eurox Alloy Cantilever Brakeset – Silver – used very good condition -- 
$45

Mafac Tandem Brake Lever set – Silver – very used condition -- $15

TRP Drop Bar Drilled Brake Levers – RRL Alloy – Black Hoods – Nearly New – 
$45

XLC Drop Bar Brake Levers – RL340L Alloy – Black Hoods – Nearly New -- $15

Tektro Cross Brake Levers – RL726 Alloy – Silver/Black – Nearly New -- $15

D+D Handlebar Mirror – Ultralite – Black -- nearly new -- $20Sackville – 
Medium Shopsack – excellent used condition -- $35

Sackville – XS Saddlesack – Olive – excellent used condition – $50

Minnehaha Barrel Saddle Bag – Black Canvas – Very good used condition -- $10


Thanks again,

Steve Cole

Arlington, VA




On Tuesday, December 3, 2019 at 1:26:00 PM UTC-5, Steve Cole wrote:
>
> Hi, TI'm cleaning out my parts/bags bin for the first time in years.  I 
> have several components and bags for sale.  Please feel free to PM me with 
> questions or to purchase items.  Prices do not include shipping.  Wherever 
> possible, items will be shipped in Postal Service flat rate boxes, the 
> cheapest way.  Oversize items, like handlebars will also be shipped USPS. 
>  Here a link to photos of these items:  
> https://share.icloud.com/photos/0YF2tSBunyv-_QyHrg74AtRnw
>
>  
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve Cole
>
> Arlington, Virginia
>
>
> Sugino XD2 Triple Crankset – brand new, never used – 48/36/26 - $125
>
> VP Adventure High Performance All-Mountain Pedals – brand new, never used 
> – $35
>
> MKS Sylvan Touring Pedals – brand new, never used - $15
>
> Nitto Noodle Handlebars – Model No. 177 Alloy – used very good condition – 
> 460 mm - $40
>
> Nitto Urban Riser Handlebars – Model No. B260AA Alloy Black – brand new, 
> never used – 480 mm - $25
>
> Nitto Albatross Handlebars – Model No. B352AA Alloy – 550 mm – used very 
> good condition -  $60
>
> Brooks B17 Saddle – Black, Steel Rails – Used, very good condition - $60
>
> Brooks B66 Saddle – Rare – Black, Steel Rails – used very good condition - 
> $45
>
> Nitto Seat Post – S65 Crystal Fellow – 27.2, 250 mm – nearly new Condition 
> -- $40
>
> Thompson Elite Seatpost – Black Model No. SP-E101 – 27.2, 330 mm – nearly 
> new condition - $40
>
> Dia-Compe Centerpull Brakeset – Silver – Model No. DC750 – used very good 
> condition – $25
>
> TRP Eurox Alloy Cantilever Brakeset – Silver – used very good condition -- 
> $50
>
> Mafac Tandem Brakeset – Silver – very used condition -- $20
>
> Shimano Bar End Shifters – Dura Ace 9-Speed – Used, scuffed, work 
> perfectly -- $30
>
> Suntour Barcon Bar End Shifters – friction – Well Used, work perfectly – 
> $40
>
> TRP Drop Bar Perforated Brake Levers – RRL Alloy – Black Hoods – Nearly 
> New – $50
>
> XLC Drop Bar Brake Levers – RL340L Alloy – Black Hoods – Nearly New -- $20
>
> Tektro Cross Brake Levers – RL726 Alloy – Silver/Black – Nearly New -- $20
>
> D+D Handlebar Mirror – Ultralite – Black -- nearly new -- $20
>
> Velo Orange Complete Cable Housings for both Brakes and Derailleurs – 
> Silver Metallic Braid – Unused -- $20/ both
>
> Sackville – Medium Shopsack – excellent used condition -- $45
>
> Sackville – XS Saddlesack – Olive – excellent used condition – $50
>
> V Brand (Rivendell’s Sackville Precursor) Grab Bag – Tan – very good used 
> condition -- $40 
>
> Minnehaha Barrel Saddle Bag – Black Canvas – Very good used condition -- 
> $15
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Components & Bags

[Steve Cole]

Sorry, Sold

On Tuesday, December 3, 2019 at 6:11:39 PM UTC-5, velomann wrote:
>
> I’ll take the b-66 saddle if still available. 
> Mike M

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[RBW] Re: FS: Components & Bags

[Steve Cole]

Sorry.  Sold.

On Tuesday, December 3, 2019 at 3:44:37 PM UTC-5, Sean B. wrote:
>
> $20 for both Velo Orange Complete Cable Housings for both Brakes and 
> Derailleur? If so, I'm interested. 
>
> On Tuesday, December 3, 2019 at 12:26:00 PM UTC-6, Steve Cole wrote:
>>
>> Hi, TI'm cleaning out my parts/bags bin for the first time in years.  I 
>> have several components and bags for sale.  Please feel free to PM me with 
>> questions or to purchase items.  Prices do not include shipping.  Wherever 
>> possible, items will be shipped in Postal Service flat rate boxes, the 
>> cheapest way.  Oversize items, like handlebars will also be shipped USPS. 
>>  Here a link to photos of these items:  
>> https://share.icloud.com/photos/0YF2tSBunyv-_QyHrg74AtRnw
>>
>>  
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Steve Cole
>>
>> Arlington, Virginia
>>
>>
>> Sugino XD2 Triple Crankset – brand new, never used – 48/36/26 - $125
>>
>> VP Adventure High Performance All-Mountain Pedals – brand new, never used 
>> – $35
>>
>> MKS Sylvan Touring Pedals – brand new, never used - $15
>>
>> Nitto Noodle Handlebars – Model No. 177 Alloy – used very good condition 
>> – 460 mm - $40
>>
>> Nitto Urban Riser Handlebars – Model No. B260AA Alloy Black – brand new, 
>> never used – 480 mm - $25
>>
>> Nitto Albatross Handlebars – Model No. B352AA Alloy – 550 mm – used very 
>> good condition -  $60
>>
>> Brooks B17 Saddle – Black, Steel Rails – Used, very good condition - $60
>>
>> Brooks B66 Saddle – Rare – Black, Steel Rails – used very good condition 
>> - $45
>>
>> Nitto Seat Post – S65 Crystal Fellow – 27.2, 250 mm – nearly new 
>> Condition -- $40
>>
>> Thompson Elite Seatpost – Black Model No. SP-E101 – 27.2, 330 mm – nearly 
>> new condition - $40
>>
>> Dia-Compe Centerpull Brakeset – Silver – Model No. DC750 – used very good 
>> condition – $25
>>
>> TRP Eurox Alloy Cantilever Brakeset – Silver – used very good condition 
>> -- $50
>>
>> Mafac Tandem Brakeset – Silver – very used condition -- $20
>>
>> Shimano Bar End Shifters – Dura Ace 9-Speed – Used, scuffed, work 
>> perfectly -- $30
>>
>> Suntour Barcon Bar End Shifters – friction – Well Used, work perfectly – 
>> $40
>>
>> TRP Drop Bar Perforated Brake Levers – RRL Alloy – Black Hoods – Nearly 
>> New – $50
>>
>> XLC Drop Bar Brake Levers – RL340L Alloy – Black Hoods – Nearly New -- $20
>>
>> Tektro Cross Brake Levers – RL726 Alloy – Silver/Black – Nearly New -- $20
>>
>> D+D Handlebar Mirror – Ultralite – Black -- nearly new -- $20
>>
>> Velo Orange Complete Cable Housings for both Brakes and Derailleurs – 
>> Silver Metallic Braid – Unused -- $20/ both
>>
>> Sackville – Medium Shopsack – excellent used condition -- $45
>>
>> Sackville – XS Saddlesack – Olive – excellent used condition – $50
>>
>> V Brand (Rivendell’s Sackville Precursor) Grab Bag – Tan – very good used 
>> condition -- $40 
>>
>> Minnehaha Barrel Saddle Bag – Black Canvas – Very good used condition -- 
>> $15
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Components & Bags

[Steve Cole]

Both have sold.

On Tuesday, December 3, 2019 at 2:38:17 PM UTC-5, Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY 
wrote:
>
> Interested in the dura-ace shifters and the shop sack. Will dm asap
> -Kai

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[RBW] FS: Components & Bags

[Steve Cole]

Hi, TI'm cleaning out my parts/bags bin for the first time in years.  I 
have several components and bags for sale.  Please feel free to PM me with 
questions or to purchase items.  Prices do not include shipping.  Wherever 
possible, items will be shipped in Postal Service flat rate boxes, the 
cheapest way.  Oversize items, like handlebars will also be shipped USPS. 
 Here a link to photos of these items:  
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0YF2tSBunyv-_QyHrg74AtRnw

 

Thanks,

Steve Cole

Arlington, Virginia


Sugino XD2 Triple Crankset – brand new, never used – 48/36/26 - $125

VP Adventure High Performance All-Mountain Pedals – brand new, never used – 
$35

MKS Sylvan Touring Pedals – brand new, never used - $15

Nitto Noodle Handlebars – Model No. 177 Alloy – used very good condition – 
460 mm - $40

Nitto Urban Riser Handlebars – Model No. B260AA Alloy Black – brand new, 
never used – 480 mm - $25

Nitto Albatross Handlebars – Model No. B352AA Alloy – 550 mm – used very 
good condition -  $60

Brooks B17 Saddle – Black, Steel Rails – Used, very good condition - $60

Brooks B66 Saddle – Rare – Black, Steel Rails – used very good condition - 
$45

Nitto Seat Post – S65 Crystal Fellow – 27.2, 250 mm – nearly new Condition 
-- $40

Thompson Elite Seatpost – Black Model No. SP-E101 – 27.2, 330 mm – nearly 
new condition - $40

Dia-Compe Centerpull Brakeset – Silver – Model No. DC750 – used very good 
condition – $25

TRP Eurox Alloy Cantilever Brakeset – Silver – used very good condition -- 
$50

Mafac Tandem Brakeset – Silver – very used condition -- $20

Shimano Bar End Shifters – Dura Ace 9-Speed – Used, scuffed, work perfectly 
-- $30

Suntour Barcon Bar End Shifters – friction – Well Used, work perfectly – $40

TRP Drop Bar Perforated Brake Levers – RRL Alloy – Black Hoods – Nearly New 
– $50

XLC Drop Bar Brake Levers – RL340L Alloy – Black Hoods – Nearly New -- $20

Tektro Cross Brake Levers – RL726 Alloy – Silver/Black – Nearly New -- $20

D+D Handlebar Mirror – Ultralite – Black -- nearly new -- $20

Velo Orange Complete Cable Housings for both Brakes and Derailleurs – 
Silver Metallic Braid – Unused -- $20/ both

Sackville – Medium Shopsack – excellent used condition -- $45

Sackville – XS Saddlesack – Olive – excellent used condition – $50

V Brand (Rivendell’s Sackville Precursor) Grab Bag – Tan – very good used 
condition -- $40 

Minnehaha Barrel Saddle Bag – Black Canvas – Very good used condition -- $15

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[RBW] Re: New 2019 frame geometry charts up on RBW's website

[Steve Cole]

Chris,

I too was interested in the new MIT Atlantis, especially the 55 cm.  While 
I originally thought the 59 cm would be the appropriate size (I love my 59 
cm AHH), the change in geometry for the MIT Atlantis has led me to conclude 
that the 55 cm is the better fit.  In addition, I am more interested in a 
700c than the 650b.  That said, I inquired about the geometry of the 55 cm 
MIT Atlantis with Riv and got this information in response:

top tube slope: 6 degrees

rear spacing; 135mm

seat tube angle: 72 degrees

head tube angle: 70 degree

effective top tube: 61cm

chainstay; 53.5cm

max tire: 2.25"

single top tube


After looking at these specs, they seemed a little inconsistent with the 
other, original MIT Atlantis specs and asked about this.  Grant wrote me to 
say: "We change, refine, improve as we go. I don't like to show 
geometries...for this reason. :)".


I have a 55 cm on order that will be built up soon after it arrives.  I'll 
post about it when I get it.


Steve Cole

Arlington, VA

On Tuesday, November 19, 2019 at 8:53:11 AM UTC-5, Chris L wrote:
>
> I was just looking at the Gus geometry charts and noticed all of the bikes 
> are updated with 2019 charts.  The biggest changes I noticed were in the 
> bikes I might be interested in purchasing, the Atlantis and the Appaloosa, 
> and the sizes have changed on both.  I would have ridden a 56 Atlantis and 
> a 55 Appaloosa and now I'm guessing I would ride a 55 Atlantis and a 54 
> Appaloosa, although no S.O. heights are listed on those two.  
>
> The 55cm Atlantis is now a 700c bike with a much longer top-tube and 
> slacker head angle/longer rake.  Sounds interesting and I can't wait to see 
> one.
>

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[RBW] Re: Great Allegheny Passage and C.

[Steve Cole]

Jacob,

Sounds like a fabulous 4+ days.  I don't generally think of record-setting 
cold days in November as very desirable.  Since they allowed you to cycle 
the C without mud on a frozen, leaf-covered surface, I might change my 
mind.  I'm wondering how cold it got at night and what kind of equipment 
kept you warm.


On Monday, November 18, 2019 at 1:42:26 PM UTC-5, Jacob P wrote:
>
> Hey all, 
> I know it's a well traversed route, but for those of you on the east coast 
> within spitting distance to DC or Pittsburgh, please do consider riding the 
> GAP and C I have a few cross country tours in my quiver, but for a 
> couple specific reasons, this one stood out as an exceptional micro tour. 
> First being, NO CARS! I am a distance lover (not much for speed unless it's 
> a screaming downhill!), and these consecutive trails provide 335 miles of 
> exceptional riding. The conditions on the GAP are near pristine, and 
> although the C is a bit more rough and tumble, it's also an incredible 
> ride. I've heard a lot of people say that the C is a complete mudbath. I 
> will advocate for November riding -- the leaves cover most the path and the 
> ground was slightly frozen. Zero mud. 
>
> Secondly, it's a micro tour-able route! I live in Charlottesville and my 
> buddy in DC. I parked my car in a quiet neighborhood of Arlington, then 
> pedaled over to a rental car company where we quickly hauled our bikes and 
> gear to downtown Pittsburgh. Rental minivan dropped off, one night in a 
> hotel, and we were off. Four and a half days later, we were on the National 
> Mall in DC. Here are a few pictures along the way. He's riding a Surly 
> Bridgeclub and and I'm on a 63cm AHH. Notice the goosenecked stem -- I had 
> to get creative to get this bike to fit me correctly :) 
>
> We camped along the Potomac, spotted Bald Eagles and Red Tailed Hawks, 
> encountered a few trash pandas who attempted to bust into our panniers. I 
> rode the entire route in Crocs and second hand wool/reflective clothing. We 
> are here. And finally, as it should be noted, a good time was had by all. 
>
> Happy riding everyone, 
>
> Jacob
> Charlottesville, VA
>

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[RBW] WTB: 58 cm Toyo or MUSA Atlantis

[Steve Cole]

I’m about to take the leap and have a new MIT Atlantis built up but would 
prefer one of the original designs. If you have one you are willing to part 
with, please PM me by Monday or I’ll jump on the MIT. Thanks

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[RBW] Re: Advice Sought on Hubs and Rim Choice

[Steve Cole]

Thanks to all for your insights.  While everyone notes that the high end 
hubs are bulletproof and potentially will last a lifetime, no one's really 
commented on ride quality and whether one should expect a difference 
between the XT say and the higher end ones.  I'm not a weight weenie so the 
extra ounces are not an issue for me.

Steve

On Wednesday, October 9, 2019 at 9:20:43 AM UTC-4, Steve Cole wrote:
>
> I'm building up a new-to-me MIT Atlantis.  My best guess is that this is 
> my final build short of deciding to have a custom frame built for me, which 
> is unlikely.  As a result, I'm willing to spend somewhat more on components 
> that I otherwise would.  I've been thinking about the wheels I want and 
> would be grateful for advice.  Are Velocity rims and Deore hubs more than 
> sufficient -- in other words would I notice any difference in the short- or 
> longer-term if I use more upscale hubs such as Phil Wood, Chris King, White 
> Industries or Shimano XTR?  For rims, I've been thinking about using 
> Velocity Atlas as I'll be riding on and off-road in the desert southwest. 
>  Are there other rims I should consider?  Thanks for your input.
>
> Steve Cole
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Advice Sought on Hubs and Rim Choice

[Steve Cole]

I considered Cliffhangers but Velocity specs them at 45-65 mm.  This seems 
to reduce my flexibility.  I was planning on using RH Snoqualmie Pass 
Endurance+ tires that are 44 mm.  If I wanted to go to a narrower tire, the 
Cliffhangers are not ideal.

On Wednesday, October 9, 2019 at 9:48:04 AM UTC-4, Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY 
wrote:
>
> For riding in the desert you might like the Cliffhanger for it's tubeless 
> option, I think the Atlas doesn't do tubeless? That's assuming you're not 
> going sub 40mm with your tires.
> -Kai
>

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[RBW] Advice Sought on Hubs and Rim Choice

[Steve Cole]

I'm building up a new-to-me MIT Atlantis.  My best guess is that this is my 
final build short of deciding to have a custom frame built for me, which is 
unlikely.  As a result, I'm willing to spend somewhat more on components 
that I otherwise would.  I've been thinking about the wheels I want and 
would be grateful for advice.  Are Velocity rims and Deore hubs more than 
sufficient -- in other words would I notice any difference in the short- or 
longer-term if I use more upscale hubs such as Phil Wood, Chris King, White 
Industries or Shimano XTR?  For rims, I've been thinking about using 
Velocity Atlas as I'll be riding on and off-road in the desert southwest. 
 Are there other rims I should consider?  Thanks for your input.

Steve Cole

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[RBW] Re: Cheviot Wool Sweater Preorder - Anyone In?

[Steve Cole]

I'm in.  First reason -- I simply want to support Rivendell; I want it to 
continue serving our passionate community for years to come.  I'm more than 
willing to take a $120 chance.  Second -- I can always use a great wool 
sweater.  Third, trusting Grant with the wheels I ride on is much more 
risky than trusting him with his taste in sweaters.  So, I'm all in.



On Sunday, September 15, 2019 at 1:20:28 PM UTC-4, SeanMac wrote:
>
> Howdy,
>
> Grant wrote about this a few blahgs ago.  I am intrigued, but a bit 
> hesitant to put down $120 without having some idea of the style of the 
> sweater that is being produced.  At the same time, I love the color, and 
> the concept.  I also remember that Grant did a collection of wool sweaters 
> a few years ago that I skipped, but in hindsight wish I had purchased.
>
> Anyway, here is a link to the sweater:  Cheviot Wool Sweater Preorder 
> 
>
> If you have placed your order I would love to know your reasoning for 
> doing so.
>
> If any of you remember the previous wool sweaters that Riv. produced, do 
> you recall if that was done on a pre-order basis as well?  I'm curious what 
> might happen to the price of this sweater after the pre-order period has 
> ended.
>
> Anyway, thanks for your thoughts.
>
> Sean
> Buffalo, NY
>

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[RBW] WTB: XSmall Saddlesack

[Steve Cole]

I'm looking for an xsmall saddleback.  If you have one to sell, please PM 
me.

Thanks,

Steve Cole

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[RBW] Re: Finding out how a Bike's Performance Changes with Changes to Components

[Steve Cole]

Bill,

I appreciate and Identify with your comments.  Your Dad's philosophy as 
recounted seems like good advice for us bike tinkerers, probably everyone. 
 I'm not sure there's much else to say except, it would be nice if it 
didn't occasionally cost a nontrivial amount to pursue one's crazy ideas, 
which brings me back to Joe Bernard's early comment about wanting to try a 
low trail bike. I must admit I have been in that camp, wondering whether 
low trail would be an improvement.  I concluded, without ever trying a low 
trail bike, my Homer's ride would be nearly impossible to improve upon. 
 But for those who seek to learn things with great costs, one idea would be 
to ask on the list whether there is someone locally to talk with or even 
who would allow one to actually try out what you were looking at.

Again, thanks to all,

Steve

On Tuesday, October 30, 2018 at 9:49:40 AM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Steve Cole said  "It's clear to me that simply a desire to have the chance 
> to try out new components before buying them is largely unrealistic.  As 
> Bill Lindsay notes, the bike industry is an equipment industry.  It's 
> nearly impossible to try out equipment and, if one doesn't find it works 
> for them, return it as new.  Bill also asked whether there is another 
> industry that offers what I am looking for.  In this day and age, I'm 
> confident the answer is no.  Moreover, it's not realistic to expect it to 
> emerge in the future."
>
> Given these realities, I recommend the adoption of a few different 
> attitudes towards the Platonic ideal "bicycle".  The first attitude is 
> probably the single biggest gift I received from my late father, and that 
> is the apparently self-contradictory attitude that nothing it ever 
> perfect.  Everything can be improved upon, but at the very same time, 
> everything has a bit of good in it and it's always OK to be content with 
> what you've got.  I think this attitude keeps you happy with what you have, 
> but always on the low-level lookout for something better and interesting.  
> This kind of attitude will get you talking to other cyclists who might have 
> a setup you've never seen.  You'll talk to them and absorb their attitudes 
> and perspectives.  Picking the brains of people who like talking about 
> their deliberate choices IS a way for you to learn about your options, 
> completely free of charge.  It's unrealistic to ride blissfully for 10 
> years, learning nothing, roll into an LBS and expect the 20 year old wrench 
> to tell you about all possible handlebar combinations, and personally 
> guarantee the one that is demonstrably perfect for you.  Instead, if you 
> keep your eyes open, you might develop a short list of handlebar setups you 
> want to try.  Maybe there are three variants.  Then, eyes open, you spy a 
> cyclist on a machine close to your size with one of those setups.  You talk 
> it over and maybe even ride his bike around the parking lot.  Voila! a free 
> test ride.  Maybe you see another variant on the cheap here on this forum, 
> local to you, and willing to trade for things you already have.  Another 
> free way to try things out.  
>
> Another attitude that I think is useful is to regard it like gardening.  
> Gardeners don't need to know ahead of time that the things they buy and 
> plant will 'work for them'.  They savor the process.  Putting ones hands in 
> the dirt and working on it is a big part of the fun.  Working on your own 
> bike, conceiving of the options, tinkering in your mind, is all part of 
> what makes this more than a hobby for a lot of people.  Making mistakes and 
> undoing previous jobs is part of the process.  It's never perfect, but it's 
> always good, and there's always a next job to do. Some cyclists want the 
> bike to get out of their way so they can enjoy the ride. Some cyclists want 
> to enjoy the process on the stand and on the road. Enjoying the process can 
> include a constant reflection on the equipment. Some take this reflection 
> to greater lengths than others.
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
>
> On Tuesday, October 30, 2018 at 3:35:49 AM UTC-7, Steve Cole wrote:
>
>> Thanks for all the thoughtful comments.  You all remind me why I stop by 
>> daily to catch up on your latest thinking and, occasionally, purchase a new 
>> to me component.
>>
>> It's clear to me that simply a desire to have the chance to try out new 
>> components before buying them is largely unrealistic.  As Bill Lindsay 
>> notes, the bike industry is an equipment industry.  It's nearly impossible 
>> to try out equipment and, if one doesn't find it works for them, return it 
>> as new.  Bill also asked whether there is another industry that offers what 
>> I am lo

[RBW] Re: Finding out how a Bike's Performance Changes with Changes to Components

[Steve Cole]

Thanks for all the thoughtful comments.  You all remind me why I stop by 
daily to catch up on your latest thinking and, occasionally, purchase a new 
to me component.

It's clear to me that simply a desire to have the chance to try out new 
components before buying them is largely unrealistic.  As Bill Lindsay 
notes, the bike industry is an equipment industry.  It's nearly impossible 
to try out equipment and, if one doesn't find it works for them, return it 
as new.  Bill also asked whether there is another industry that offers what 
I am looking for.  In this day and age, I'm confident the answer is no. 
 Moreover, it's not realistic to expect it to emerge in the future. 
 Today's retail economy has changed from only a few years ago.  How many of 
us go to our local store (LBS) wanting to try something out, or at lease 
see it with our own eyes, only to return home to enjoy an internet search 
to get whatever that component is at the lowest cost -- even being willing 
to get it in a week or two from the U.K. or Germany?  This kind of 
purchasing, which I admit to doing, does make for a strong, local retail 
economy, one that gives the variety and personality that contribute to 
making our neighborhoods and communities vibrant, interesting places or 
that increase the likelihood that we'll find exactly what we're seeking 
locally.  Where I live (Metro D.C.), Amazon has just opened a bookstore.  I 
doubt they'll open the LBS of my dreams.

Where does this leave me?  I guess a comment Brian Campbell made about 
cycling being a hobby resonates most with me.  I too am willing to spend 
some money in pursuit of a better fit, a more comfortable ride, and so on. 
 Doing so involves time and money that result in an experience I enjoy. 
 I'm especially grateful that my fellow listers often do what I do and then 
when a component doesn't work for them, I can get a chance to try it out to 
see whether it works for me.

I still dream of a custom bike, one that's perfect for me in every way.  I 
know this is a pipe dream.  If I were ever to go this route, as soon as it 
would arrive, I'd begin my journey of trying new things to make it 
"better."  And, of course, what I told the bike builder I wanted would 
change by the time I received the bike, even if I was right about what I 
wanted at the time I ordered the bike.

Thanks to all for such thoughtful comments. It's threads like this one, 
that allow us to explore the many dimensions of our hobby, I find 
especially interesting and rewarding.

Steve Cole








On Sunday, October 28, 2018 at 7:22:42 AM UTC-4, Steve Cole wrote:
>
> John Hawrylak posted recently about converting a Riv Bike to low trail. 
>  Joe Bernard replied that he had done this only to find out he did not like 
> low trail and that it was a little costly to find this out.  Boy, did this 
> resonate with me.
>
> I have found it nearly impossible to understand the effect of a component 
> change on my bike's performance without some, at least, modest investment, 
> even when I do the work switching out parts myself.  While my most 
> extensive experience relates to handlebars, I've also explored different 
> wheel sizes, saddles, derailleurs, and assorted other components.  I'll 
> share my handlebar experience because it seems instructive.
>
> From the time I was 16, I rode racing bikes.  It had always been clear to 
> me, at least intellectually, that racing bike's drop handlebars, in 
> addition to reducing wind resistance and increasing speed, offered great 
> variation in hand position increasing the odds of finding comfort.  After 
> 45 years or so riding drops, the time came for me consider alternatives. 
>  Much more of my future riding would be in the city and I believed and 
> still believe upright positions offer better visibility and thus are safer. 
>  I am also no longer as limber as I once was.  Over time, I found that, 
> except on steep climbs, I almost never used the drops. I had been riding 
> almost exclusively on the hoods or the crossbar.  My first "city bike" was 
> a Scott Sub 20.  What a revelation.  The bars, Syncros, were almost flat 
> and 640mm wide with a 10 degree sweep. They offered comfort like I had not 
> felt before. Very importantly, they also seemed to offer better control.  I 
> noticed that these flat and almost straight handlebars were more akin to 
> most motorcycle handlebars than bicycle racing handlebars.  
>
> After riding the Scott for a few years, I learned of Rivendell (and as 
> importantly, Bicycle Quarterly and Compass Cycles).  I was an easy convert. 
>  The only question I had was which Rivendell would be right for me. 
>  Ultimately, I chose a Homer.  I bought a used Toyo Homer - 59cm, 700mm 
> tires --  from someone on the list.  It came with racing bars, which I 
> replaced, this time with Nitto Albatross bars,

[RBW] Re: Finding out how a Bike's Performance Changes with Changes to Components

[Steve Cole]

I guess I did leave everyone hanging.  About two weeks ago, I had my local 
bike shop trade out my old bars, shifters and grips for the new ones I'd 
chosen.  Since then, I've been away about half the time.  My initial 
impression having ridden may 100 miles is that the new setup is much better 
for me than the old one.  A few observations: 

First, the grips I chose were the Ergon GC-1s.  I'd used Ergons on my Scott 
and found them immensely comfortable.  The key, I believe, to finding 
comfort with a low-sweep handlebar, and no doubt other bars, is to ensure 
bar height minimizes pressure on the wrists.  Bars should be not too high, 
not too low, just right.  The shape of the Ergons is designed to support 
the "heel" of the hand.  At the right bar height and grip angle, this 
should reduce pressure on the wrist/hand.  The GC-1 is spec'd for 
handlebars with a modest sweep -- Bullmoose bars have a 30 degree sweep 
(GP-1s are for lower sweep bars).  One other note on this.  I wrapped my 
bars inside from the shifters to the stem with Lizard Skins Bar Tape, which 
is a soft polymer for a second comfortable place to hold on.  I've used 
cork, leather and cloth tape over the years. A friend recommended this tape 
and I'm pretty impressed.

Second. while I'm fairly confident in the decisions I've made, I find the 
bars are a little wider than I would like.  They are 670mm wide.  In use, 
my hands tend to slide to the inner part of the grips. For me, I think my 
arms should be roughly 90 degrees from my torso when my hands are at the 
optimal place on the grips.  I plan to cut them down this week about 1/2 
inch or 15mm.  I'll try that and hopefully will have found the sweet spot. 
 If not, I'll cut them down a little more.

Third, I love indexed trigger shifters and the Shimano XTs are working 
flawlessly.  I used Shimano Dura Ace bar end shifters with my Albatross 
bars,  These are also indexed shifters or can be set to be friction.  I 
know there have been many threads discussing the benefits and costs of 
indexed vs friction shifters.  I'll leave that discussion for elsewhere, 
only to note that index shifting, for me, is simple, intuitive, and 
mindless and helps me just enjoy the ride.  

I appreciate very much the comments left by others.  One reaction to one 
comment.  I don't believe we should have to make large cash outlays to 
understand whether a component will work well for us.  Unfortunately, once 
we try it out, it's no longer new and can't be returned as such.  That's 
why I believe bike shops have an important role to play that many are not 
filling.  Perhaps the fact that switching out components without expense or 
effort reflects the fact that most people are content with the as-is bikes 
they purchase from the shops or on-line.  For me, I am an inveterate 
tinkerer always seeking ways to make my ride even better.  I'm grateful to 
my list colleagues who have tried something, chosen not to keep it and 
offered it for sale on the list.  I've spent more than I care to say on 
items I've purchased here.  Some day, I'll have my own parts bin sale.

All best,
Steve Cole
Arlington, Virginia



On Sunday, October 28, 2018 at 7:22:42 AM UTC-4, Steve Cole wrote:
>
> John Hawrylak posted recently about converting a Riv Bike to low trail. 
>  Joe Bernard replied that he had done this only to find out he did not like 
> low trail and that it was a little costly to find this out.  Boy, did this 
> resonate with me.
>
> I have found it nearly impossible to understand the effect of a component 
> change on my bike's performance without some, at least, modest investment, 
> even when I do the work switching out parts myself.  While my most 
> extensive experience relates to handlebars, I've also explored different 
> wheel sizes, saddles, derailleurs, and assorted other components.  I'll 
> share my handlebar experience because it seems instructive.
>
> From the time I was 16, I rode racing bikes.  It had always been clear to 
> me, at least intellectually, that racing bike's drop handlebars, in 
> addition to reducing wind resistance and increasing speed, offered great 
> variation in hand position increasing the odds of finding comfort.  After 
> 45 years or so riding drops, the time came for me consider alternatives. 
>  Much more of my future riding would be in the city and I believed and 
> still believe upright positions offer better visibility and thus are safer. 
>  I am also no longer as limber as I once was.  Over time, I found that, 
> except on steep climbs, I almost never used the drops. I had been riding 
> almost exclusively on the hoods or the crossbar.  My first "city bike" was 
> a Scott Sub 20.  What a revelation.  The bars, Syncros, were almost flat 
> and 640mm wide with a 10 degree sweep. They offered comfort like I had not 
> felt before. Very importantly, they also seemed to offer bett

[RBW] Finding out how a Bike's Performance Changes with Changes to Components

[Steve Cole]

John Hawrylak posted recently about converting a Riv Bike to low trail. 
 Joe Bernard replied that he had done this only to find out he did not like 
low trail and that it was a little costly to find this out.  Boy, did this 
resonate with me.

I have found it nearly impossible to understand the effect of a component 
change on my bike's performance without some, at least, modest investment, 
even when I do the work switching out parts myself.  While my most 
extensive experience relates to handlebars, I've also explored different 
wheel sizes, saddles, derailleurs, and assorted other components.  I'll 
share my handlebar experience because it seems instructive.

>From the time I was 16, I rode racing bikes.  It had always been clear to 
me, at least intellectually, that racing bike's drop handlebars, in 
addition to reducing wind resistance and increasing speed, offered great 
variation in hand position increasing the odds of finding comfort.  After 
45 years or so riding drops, the time came for me consider alternatives. 
 Much more of my future riding would be in the city and I believed and 
still believe upright positions offer better visibility and thus are safer. 
 I am also no longer as limber as I once was.  Over time, I found that, 
except on steep climbs, I almost never used the drops. I had been riding 
almost exclusively on the hoods or the crossbar.  My first "city bike" was 
a Scott Sub 20.  What a revelation.  The bars, Syncros, were almost flat 
and 640mm wide with a 10 degree sweep. They offered comfort like I had not 
felt before. Very importantly, they also seemed to offer better control.  I 
noticed that these flat and almost straight handlebars were more akin to 
most motorcycle handlebars than bicycle racing handlebars.  

After riding the Scott for a few years, I learned of Rivendell (and as 
importantly, Bicycle Quarterly and Compass Cycles).  I was an easy convert. 
 The only question I had was which Rivendell would be right for me. 
 Ultimately, I chose a Homer.  I bought a used Toyo Homer - 59cm, 700mm 
tires --  from someone on the list.  It came with racing bars, which I 
replaced, this time with Nitto Albatross bars, seemingly the preferred 
upright bar of the Riv community and often recommended by Riv as a great 
bar.  I rode my Homer with the Albatrosses for 5 years, a few thousand 
miles a year. Albatross bars have, according to www.whatbars.com, a 78 
degree sweep.  All the time I rode my Homer, which I love, I wondered 
whether I would have the comfort and control I had enjoyed on my Scott if I 
found a handlebar with much less sweep.

But which bar?  I spoke with friends and read the many entries on the topic 
in the RBW Owners Bunch listserve.  I read more of what I could find on the 
internet.  I considered the Jones, MAP Ahearne, several different Nitto 
bars and settled on the Nitto Bullmoose.  Unfortunately, I couldn't find 
anywhere I could try it out.  Most bike shops, in my experience, are not 
eager to trade out components to allow customers to experience the effect 
of the changes.  At best, they'll offer different bikes with different 
components to try.  Still, I had decided I wanted to try the Bullmooses. 
 To do this, I also had to use different shifters; the bar end shifters I 
used on with the Albatross bars wouldn't work with Bullmosse bars.  I 
searched for used Bullmooses without success so I ordered a new one from 
Rivendell.  I did find used Shimano XT 3x9 trigger shifters.  Together, 
with new grips, cables and cable housing, my investment to "try" this setup 
(I had a bike shop do the switch) exceeded $400.  This seemed like a hefty 
investment and there was the chance that, like Joe Bernard, I would find 
out it was a failed experiment, an expensive one at that.

One thing I love about the industry is the amazing array of choices in 
bikes and components.  I also love the the fact the barriers to entry into 
the industry are low -- innovation is everywhere and there are loads of 
tinkerers in their "garages" working on that next best idea, one that will 
improve everyone's cycling experience only if cyclists can learn about it 
firsthand. It just frustrates me no end, however, how hard and costly it 
can be to explore the choices available.  For most cyclists, you get what 
the industry's major players think you want or should want.  Understanding 
and especially experiencing available choices requires a bit of work and 
often an uncommonly accommodating bike shop.  More often than should be the 
case, in my view, the cost is not trivial and sometimes proves the negative 
-- one was better off before.  So my question is what can the bike industry 
do to help cyclists better understand the component choices they have and 
the effects on riding will be with different components?  

Sorry for running on so long.

Steve Cole
Arlington, Virginia

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[RBW] Re: Washington, D.C. Rides/Recommendations.

[Steve Cole]

For a very nice 16+ mile loop that begins anywhere you cross the Potomac 
River from D.C. (Key Bridge, Rooselvel Big, Memorial Bridge or the 14th 
Street Bridge), the Arlington Loop includes a great section of the Mount 
Vernon Trail, a very wooded section of the Washington & Old Dominion (W) 
Rail Trail, and a return section of the Martha Custis Trail that brings you 
back to the river to connect with where you started.  The W is a long 
rail trail that goes from Shirlington in Arlington out to Purcellville in 
the foothills of the Shenandoah Mountains.  This is a 45 mile ride one way 
ride that goes from more or less suburban through, small towns and rural 
areas.  Quite lovely.

On Friday, October 19, 2018 at 6:31:32 PM UTC-4, David B wrote:
>
> I'll be in Washington, D.C. for a conference in a few weeks and am seeking 
> ride recommendations, as well as just general tourist type things to do, 
> possibly in conjunction with riding a bike.
> Any Riv-ish spots to check out?
> Capital Bikeshare looks like it'll fit my needs perfectly, and I'm 
> familiar with 'performance' expectations or bikeshare bikes as I ride one 
> nearly daily in Chicago.
> So... recommendations?
> Thanks,
> David
> River Grove, IL
>

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[RBW] Re: What epoch of Rivster are you?

[Steve Cole]

We're a Golden Ager household in more ways than one.  We have a Toyo A. 
Homer Hilsen, a Simpleton converted to a 14-speed Rohloff drive, and a 
Betty Foy.  

On Wednesday, September 26, 2018 at 7:55:34 PM UTC-4, Philip Williamson 
wrote:
>
> Recent discussions make me wonder, what epoch of Rivendell bikes or 
> aesthetic most appeals to list members? 
>
> Which era do you identify with the most, or like the best? 
> Is it the era you first encountered Riv in, or did you look back through 
> the back catalog and say, "That's the one for me?" Or did you arrive early, 
> travel into the future with Rivendell and love best what's happening now? 
>
>- Are you a "*Proto-Riv*" aficionado of Longlows, Allrounders, and 
>Herons? 
>- A "*Golden Ager*?" Are Herons, Rambouillets, and Salukis your 
>favorites? 
>- Or are you a "*2TTer,*" a Bombadil, Hunq, and Sam Hillborner?
>- A "*Clemster*" and a Rosco? 
>- Have you become a "*New Atlantean*?" A Swoop-a-tuber, Hill-biker, 
>and a Gus Bootster? 
>
> Are these fixed preferences, or have you been most into a different era 
> before? Do you have shadings of more than one?  I first encountered Riv in 
> the Proto era, looking at the All Rounder. Overall I'm a Golden Ager, but 
> the New Atlantean age is looking pretty attractive. 
>
> Philip 
> Santa Rosa, CA 
>

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[RBW] Re: A Boy, A Bike, and A Benefactor

[Steve Cole]

Thank you for warming my heart.  

On Wednesday, October 10, 2018 at 10:59:54 AM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding 
Ding! wrote:
>
> A Boy, A Bike, and A Benefactor: A True and Heartwarming Rivendell Tale 
>
> If you are living here and now, you probably notice a scarcity of kindness 
> and generosity. You aren’t sure how we got here and how to change it, and 
> also, you’re exhausted. What can we really do? This is a story that turns 
> one’s typical experience on its head - a story that takes the word kind and 
> stretches it, tests it, transforms it. In this story, we see the word 
> kindness become generosity. 
>
> Generous. When was the last time someone was generous with you? So 
> generous you stood there, nonplussed and humbled? Merriam-Webster defines 
> the word generous as “liberal in giving: openhanded.” I will tack onto that 
> definition from the Book of Leah: “giving until it pinches a bit; the kind 
> of giving that costs one something; giving without expectation for 
> something in return; a higher form of kindness.” (Also, there would be some 
> stuff about Jesus in there, but this is not that forum so I will refrain, 
> but it will be hard.) 
>
> Where you find generosity, there you will find kindness, also. 
>
> This is a story about a benefactor. This is a story about a boy. And 
> finally, this is a story about a bike. Your icing on the cake: this is a 
> story about a convergence of the three. 
>
> I had found myself in need of a bigger bike for my 12 year old son, Ethan. 
> He had ridden his Specialized Hotrock from 1st grade until now, his 7th 
> grade year. In kid years, that’s a coon’s age to have ridden one bike. We 
> ride to school every week, 2 miles one way, and we need  dependable, 
> quality bikes to do it. Bikes for pre-teens are rare as hen’s teeth; but 
> you know this. The company I was depending on for a kids’ bicycle had 
> suddenly closed its doors, so I turned to the Riv List, as is my custom. 
> Though disappointed about losing my first choice, I knew I’d be shown the 
> right places to shop, and be on my way with the problem solved. 
>
> This is exactly what happened. I reached out, people were kind, I took a 
> recommendation, and I ordered a bike with a bullet-proof return policy. 
> Several days went by, and then one night I decided to clean out my email. 
> In my Junk folder, there was an email I had never seen, from several days 
> prior, and this is what it said: 
>
> “If you are second guessing yourself, and humble enough to accept a 
> generous gift for one of my favorite riding families; if you would accept a 
> 45cm Clem to pass down to your boys I would happily cover the difference 
> between the Woom you ordered and the mini Clem to help RBW. My only request 
> is that if you accept; to keep me anonymous.” 
>
> Let that sink in. Do you know what he’s saying? Look again...read it a few 
> times...see if you can believe it. He had to spell it out for me when I 
> couldn’t get my mind around it. Emails. A phone call: Take the money you 
> planned to spend on the other bike; put it into a little Clem, the rest is 
> covered. This is a Benefactor, proposing a deal that costs him to bless 
> another. An openhanded giver, giving so that it pinches. 
>
> When was the last time someone was generous to you? 
>
> Once I understood, there was a choice to make. What did the Benefactor 
> ask? Am I humble enough to accept a generous offer - that was his question. 
> Reflexively: I am not, and this is pride. I don’t deserve a Benefactor. I 
> didn’t earn this bike. I haven’t done anything for this man. I won’t likely 
> have a chance to repay him for his kindness. How can I make it equal? Fair 
> to him? Say no, said my pride. 
>
> When was the last time someone was generous to you? Did you allow it? 
>
> So we spoke on the phone. We had a lovely discussion about who he is and 
> how he arrived at this idea, and why he sent the email. Then I realized: my 
> Benefactor wasn’t looking to make it equal. He was aiming for quite the 
> opposite. 
>
> When was the last time someone took less so you could have more? 
>
> I spoke to Ethan this morning, asked him what he thought. It was Christmas 
> in October around here - there was actual jumping for joy. “I never thought 
> I’d have a Rivendell!”  Humbled, I agreed to the deal. Our Benefactor took 
> care of everything. He made the call, placed the order, sent me an email 
> with an order confirmation, and now there’s a little silver mini-Clem, 
> pony-like and lovely, with a boy’s name on it, sent from a Benefactor he 
> can never repay. 
>
> When was the last time you were generous to someone who would never repay 
> you? 
>
> Today, inexplicably, we were on the receiving end of a grand gesture. I 
> don’t know that our Benefactor can truly know the depths at which we feel 
> this. I will tell this story, keep his secret, and he will read about it. 
> There will be photos of Peterson boys in coming years on a silver, 
> 

[RBW] Re: nail polish suggestions

[Steve Cole]

Try your local paint store.  They typically sell sample 4 oz cans of any 
color at very little cost.  You can take some chips, match it to your 
frames and then they'll mix up gloss in that color for you.  Will come very 
close, but not likely to be a perfect match.

On Wednesday, August 22, 2018 at 1:00:07 PM UTC-4, Jim S. wrote:
>
> Not for me. To touch up scratches on Rivs. 
>
> I don't want to do the Grant Petersen thing and just put red. I'd like the 
> nail polish to somewhat match.
>
> I have a mustard clem with a scrach.
>
> And a light blue roadini.
>
> Any touch-up ideas would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks as always.
>
> Jim S.
>

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[RBW] Re: Full brimmed hat recommendations

[Steve Cole]

Try Conner Hats.  Wide range of styles and materials.  Made in Australia.


On Monday, August 20, 2018 at 6:35:55 PM UTC-4, David wrote:
>
> Hi folks - do any of you love a particular full-brimmed hat, like the ones 
> Outdoor Research and the like make?  Not so much Indiana Jones style, but 
> one for coverage from sun, a bit pliable? I would expect for Riv to have a 
> well-researched MUSA go to that they sell (sorta like the Abus lock), but 
> no luck.  I would really appreciate your thoughts if you have some to 
> offer.  Thanks--David
>

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[RBW] Re: Do you have a ROHLOFF hub on your bike ?

[Steve Cole]

I had a Riv Simple One fitted with a Rohloff.  Generally, I'm happy with 
it.  The biggest advantages are the uniform gear steps and the low, low 
gear, which allows one to feel he/she could climb a tree.  I have it 
outfitted as a typical Riv upright with fenders, etc.  The Simple One has a 
track rear dropout.  As a result, it takes some real effort to change a 
rear flat.  Would I do this again?  It was an experiment of sorts -- I 
wanted a Riv with a Rohloff and have one.  My other ride is a Homer, which 
is my ride of choice.  Would I do this again?  Probably not with the 
availability of 1x11.  Also, I would make sure the rear dropout was better 
suited to a Rohloff.  The only other issue I have with the Rohloff is the 
shifting hesitation as I move from the higher to lower or lower to higher 
gear ranges (the Rohloff has two sets of gears).  Still, as virtually all 
Rivs, it rides beautifully.

On Monday, August 6, 2018 at 4:04:01 PM UTC-4, Charlie wrote:
>
> Do you have a ROHLOFF hub on your bike ? Is it a frame made specifically 
> for this hub ?
>
> Are you happy with the hub setup ?
>
> Thank you
>
> Charlie P 
>  Jennersville PA
>

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[RBW] Re: blug notes

[Steve Cole]

One of the beauties of Riv is knowing there is a community of people who to 
a very large extent share values.  I appreciate Grant not just for what he 
has said in this Blog post but what he says everyday through the Riv 
ecology!

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Thursday, November 10, 2016 at 7:48:47 AM UTC-5, Olof Stroh wrote:
>
> Just went to the new site and read Grants blug 24 hours after. Enough to 
> make me support Riv. As that should be necessary.
>
>  
>
> Olof Stroh
>
> Uppsala Sweden
>

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[RBW] Re: Question about running fenders on a SimpleOne or Quickbeam

[Steve Cole]

PDW also offers a product that makes it very easy to remove the 
struts: https://www.ridepdw.com/goods/spare-parts/fmf-safety-tabs.  I have 
them on my Simpleone with VO fenders.  Work like a dream.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA


On Friday, September 30, 2016 at 6:26:06 PM UTC-4, Jack Doran wrote:
>
> I'm in the market for some new fenders and I have a question for those of 
> you who run fenders on a Quickbeam, SimpleOne or any bike with a track fork 
> end: how does one make changing out a rear flat simpler? I got a pinch flat 
> on my rear tire some time back while running some SKS Longboards and it was 
> kind of a chore having to take out the rear struts and then have to deal 
> with getting the struts put back in place after taking care of the flat. I 
> know one option would be to allow more clearance between the wheel and 
> fender, but that seems to diminish the reason for having fenders, IMO. 
> Another option might be to leave the struts long and merely loosen the 
> hardware and slide the clamps up the excess strut area to get the wheel 
> out, but I'm trying to avoid that, too. Or maybe I'm just being picky!
>

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[RBW] Re: FS - Complete Set of Bicycle Quarterly

[Steve Cole]

Sale pending

On Sunday, July 17, 2016 at 6:59:47 AM UTC-4, Steve Cole wrote:
>
> I''m selling a complete set of Bicycle Quarterly from No. 1 to No. 55.
> They are in perfect condition.
> The publisher lists sets from No. 1 to No. 50 for $350.
> I'm asking $175 plus shipping USPS book rate (which is cheap).
>
> Steve Cole
> Arlington, VA
>

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[RBW] FS - Complete Set of Bicycle Quarterly

[Steve Cole]

I''m selling a complete set of Bicycle Quarterly from No. 1 to No. 55.
They are in perfect condition.
The publisher lists sets from No. 1 to No. 50 for $350.
I'm asking $175 plus shipping USPS book rate (which is cheap).

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

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[RBW] Re: AHH Tubing Sticker on Frame

[Steve Cole]

I'm wondering whether anyone has any insight into the tubing used in the 
early years' Toyo edition of the AHH. I proudly own one.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Sunday, November 22, 2015 at 7:33:21 AM UTC-5, John Hawrylak wrote:
>
> In the recent post
> "The healing power of the bicycle a Rivendell story."
> the link to the story showed a Sam with a Tubing Sticker on the seat tube 
> giving the tubing mechanical properties: yield stress (70 ksi) and ultimate 
> tensile strength (UTS, 103 ksi). 
>
> Does the AHH have such a Tubing Sticker and if so, does it provide either 
> the yield stress or the UTS values??
>
> Such information is rarely provided on a sticker.  Got to give RBW a 
> definite positive for providing the values.  The values indicate a 4130 
> steel with stress relief, similar to a True Temper Versus steel tube.
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rohloff IGH Questions

[Steve Cole]

Hi,

First, thanks to all who replied to my post and the questions I posed.  A 
lot of help, but so far not all of the problems have been solved.  I've 
played with the cable adjusters and the tension seems to be reduced 
somewhat.  The manual says, "When winding the cable adjusters out, the 
cable tension is increased."  This suggests that with the cable adjusters 
tightened all the way (in), the shifters should be easiest to turn.  I 
don't think there's much I can do beyond this to make shifting easier; I 
guess I'll develop a right forearm like a tennis pro, which should allow me 
to spin some yarns.

As for the freewheeling, I've pretty much isolated the issue to a couple of 
gear shifts -- from 5th to 6th and 10th to 11th, and the equivalent 
downshifts.  As others have noted, a slight pause and the shifting is 
pretty seamless.  I would have hoped and expected that shifting would have 
been seamless between all gears with the possible exception of the oft 
noted 7th to 8th.  Comments on this would be appreciated.

With respect to the questions asked by those of you who replied.  Here are 
some answers:

1.  The Simpleone normally has a 120 mm rear drop out spacing.  The Rohloff 
hub spacing is 135 mm.  Respecting is relatively easy for a steel framed 
bicycle.  My respecting was done by a custom frame builder.  He also reset 
the dropouts to ensure they are parallel.

2.  Some suggested that having the hub serviced might resolve the 
freewheeling issue.  Unfortunately, it was serviced completely just before 
the build.  Oh well.

3. Noise.  Some respondents suggested that their hub is pretty much silent. 
 I've found mine to be silent in the "upper register," gears 8-14.  7th 
gear is clearly the loudest and the other gears in the lower register also 
are accompanied with some friction-related noise.  I'm not bothered but am 
curious whether a perfectly operating hub should be virtually silent in all 
gears when not shifting.

Even with these issues, I find I falling for this bike.  I find myself 
finding opportunities to ride it that I might have otherwise passed up.  I 
also find I'm not want to take my AHH out as of yet.  It may still be the 
newness or my continuing curiosity about this new machine.  Still, I love 
the ride and the quirks.  More to come with more experience with it.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA 22203 




On Tuesday, October 27, 2015 at 5:26:33 PM UTC-4, Steve Cole wrote:
>
> I'm looking for a rider who is experienced with the Rohloff hub to respond 
> to some questions I have.  I recently converted a Simpleone to a Rohloff 
> and have been riding it for about a week, a couple of hundred miles.  The 
> experience is different than I expected -- more challenging -- and I want 
> to see whether my experience is typical or uncommon.  
>
> I would those who might help me to respond with a private message.  I 
> don't want to clutter the discussion group postings.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve Cole
> Arlington, VA
>

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[RBW] Rohloff IGH Questions

[Steve Cole]

I'm looking for a rider who is experienced with the Rohloff hub to respond 
to some questions I have.  I recently converted a Simpleone to a Rohloff 
and have been riding it for about a week, a couple of hundred miles.  The 
experience is different than I expected -- more challenging -- and I want 
to see whether my experience is typical or uncommon.  

I would those who might help me to respond with a private message.  I don't 
want to clutter the discussion group postings.

Thanks,

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

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[RBW] Re: Rohloff IGH Questions

[Steve Cole]

Well, I guess I'll try to explain my situation.  I hope others find it of 
interest.

*Background*.  For a few years, I've been doing a deep dive on bicycles and 
cycling, a source of constant and great enjoyment. For years, I commuted to 
work on my 1968 Falcon San Remo, a bike that was my very first purchase 
with the first credit card I ever had (credit limit: $200; bike cost: 
$195).  As part of my deep dive, I had this bike restored.  I also have a 
1973 Gitane tandem, also recently restored.  When I began my dive, I purchased 
a Kickstarter bamboo bike (see: www.herobike.com; check out the Semester 
bike).  I found it great in some respects -- it had 650B Col de Vie tires 
which made for an extremely comfortable ride.  The frame, however, suffered 
from shimmy in the front end, which a need-bearing headset did not fix, so, 
I started to look for a more satisfying ride.   I found it in an  A Homer 
Hilsen (59cm), which I've been riding with great pleasure. (Tom, we met at 
Fletcher's Boat House, when you and the group that Pondero put together 
headed up the C I didn't go along.  I admired your Rohloff-converted 
Bombadil.) The AHH in addition to replacing the bamboo bike also replaced a 
Specialized Rubaix Comp and a Scott city bike.  I guess I'm always in 
search of the perfect ride. 

When I heard about the Rohloff hub, I thought this might be the key.   It 
seems like Daniel, I had a fascination with the design, German engineering, 
and I had been riding a bike with an 8-speed Shimano Alfine IGH (the 
aforementioned Scott).  I liked the Shimano a great deal; the only issue 
for me was that it did not have sufficient range (I've since sold that 
bike) and thought the 14-speed Rohloff would address this.   I found a used 
Rohloff, purchased it, and set it aside.  I wasn't sure what to do with 
it; I expected some opportunity would present itself.  When it did, I 
thought, I could learn how the Rohloff compared to my AHH drivetrain, a 
Shimano Deore Riv standard buildup.  It has even occurred to me that after 
some time riding both bikes, I would settle on one and make it my life's 
ride.  We'll see.

I purchased a Simpleone frame (58 cm) off the RBW list a couple of months 
ago to have it built up with my Rohloff.  I'd seen a similar conversion so 
I knew it could be done with some adjustments.  A framebuilder did respace 
and reset (make them parallel again) the rear dropouts to accommodate the 
wider hub (135mm vs 120mm).  I then had the bike built up mostly with 
components of my choosing -- Paul Cantis, Albatross handlebars, Brooks 
Saddle, Nitto stem, seatpost, and racks Shimano bottom bracket, SP dynamo 
and the Rohloff drivetrain, importantly with a Berthoud shifter rather than 
the standard Rohloff shifter.  The shifter choice was mostly aesthetic -- 
all of the other components are silver, so I wanted the shifter also to be 
silver -- the Rohloff shifter is black.  I also had the hub serviced and 
added an external gear mechanisms.  With the QR axle it came with, the 
external gear mechanism would make fixing flats pretty much like other 
bikes.

So, what are my issues? First, I find the shifter, a grip shifter, 
 incredibly difficult to turn from one gear to the next, up or down. I 
don't think I'm stronger or weaker than most riders.  Still, if the shifter 
were any more difficult to turn, it would come close to seeming frozen. 
 Second, when I change from almost any gear to the next highest or lowest, 
I often, but not always, find that for a revolution or so of the pedals I 
feel like I am not in gear.  When this happens, if I stop pedaling or pedal 
backwards I then can pedal forward in the gear I have chosen.  I've read 
about the problem with shifting from 7th to 8th gear and don't think this 
is what am experiencing.  I worry that this isn't safe as I have less 
control over the bicycle  and cannot depend on being able to do what is 
sometimes needed to avoid problems.

I have never ridden another bike with a Rohloff hub. I have no point of 
reference -- I simply don't know what is normal, what to expect.  If my 
experience is normal, I assume I will become increasingly familiar with the 
mechanism and will know what little things I can do in riding it to 
optimize performance. I may also look for other changes to address the 
shifter issue (e.g., a different shifter).  On the other hand, if what I 
have described is not normal, I want to know this so I can seek changes to 
the drivetrain to make it normal.

I welcome any and all advice, reactions, etc.  I truly want this experiment 
to work.  I'll  close by adding that already it seems to me that the 
Simpleone handles at least as well as the AHH, in fact, probably better. 
 If you have thoughts on this, I'd be interested as well.

Thanks,

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

p.s. Here's a photo of the Simpleone




On Tuesday, October 27, 2015 at 5:26:33 PM UTC-4, Steve Cole wrote:
>
> I'm looking for a rider who is exper

[RBW] WTB: Nitto Campee Big Back Rack - Large 33R

[Steve Cole]

Hi,

I'm looking for a used Nitto/Campee Big Back Rack 33R for a bike with 700C 
tires.  Let me know if you have one that you'd be willing to sell me.

Thanks,

Steve Cole
Arlington, Virginia

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[RBW] Re: C in October

[Steve Cole]

All,

I'm the local guy.  I went to meet the group before it departed from 
Fletcher's Boat House yesterday.  What a great group and wish I felt I 
could have kept up.  The blue AHH in the center of the photo is mine, a 
Toyo built with Albatross bars, SKS fenders and Barlow Pass tires..  I love 
it.

My favorite comment of the morning was one that Mary offered:  "so much 
Rivness!"  True and wonderful. 

I'll work on being ready to join the next group heading up or down the C .

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Monday, June 15, 2015 at 8:37:34 AM UTC-4, Pondero wrote:
>
> Because I've had such great experiences meeting my internet buddies during 
> my travels, because I've read that some of you have an interest riding (or 
> re-riding) the C, and because carving time out of a busy life for 
> lollygagging takes forethought, I want to announce my plan to ride the C 
> during October 6-9 of this year.  I'd love to have you guys join us for a 
> brief meet-up, coffee brew-up, or a complete ride along.
>
> The main driver for my travel to the DC area is a family visit.  That 
> means I have a fairly constrained itinerary.  My good friend Steve Butcher 
> (GravelDoc) and my son-in-law will be riding with me, and we'll be 
> comfortably spreading out the 185 miles over four days.  We plan to camp 
> Tuesday and Thursday nights, but family will meet us in Sharpsburg for some 
> tourist time and a B stay on Wednesday night.  We'll be riding out of 
> Silver Spring, and family will shuttle us back from Cumberland on Friday 
> evening.
>
> If this is of interest to any of you, let me know here or by private 
> message and I'll provide more details.  I'm hoping this will be another 
> opportunity to meet some of my friends face-to-face and share some time 
> awheel.  In the meantime, I'll be trying to determine which Riv to bring 
> along...
>
> Chris Johnson
> Sanger, Texas
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: C in October

[Steve Cole]

I also hope to come by at Fletcher's at 9:45 am.  I would be great to see a 
Rivbike flotilla.

Steve Cole
Arlington, VA

On Monday, October 5, 2015 at 10:05:57 AM UTC-4, Pudge wrote:
>
> Still planning to see you at Fletchers Boathouse around 9:45.
>
>  
>
> *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com  [mailto:
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com ] *On Behalf Of *Pondero
> *Sent:* Friday, October 02, 2015 7:53 PM
> *To:* RBW Owners Bunch
> *Subject:* [RBW] Re: C in October
>
>  
>
> DC area friends, the plan provided above is still a "go".  Briefly...
>
>  
>
> -Tuesday, October 6
>
>  
>
> -Bethesda Bagels 8:30 to 9:15
>
>  
>
> -Fletchers Boathouse 9:45ish to 10ish
>
>  
>
> -Lunch likely in Leesburg (not sure when)
>
>  
>
> -Camp at Indian Flats H/B site
>
>  
>
> The long range weather forecast seems to suggest that the rainy weekend 
> will improve...just in time.  We'll see you there.
>
>  
>
> Chris Johnson
>
> Sanger, Texas
>
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