Re: [RBW] Will 700x38 Gravelking SKs fit on my Ram?

[Tim Gavin]

In case the 38s are too tight, Panaracer makes the Gravel King SK in 700 x
35.  In black or brown sidewalls.

On Wed, Dec 19, 2018 at 2:18 PM Mike K.  wrote:

> Been thinking about going with wider tires on my Ram. I have Pasela 32’s
> on there now but I know it will fit 38’s. Question is, will it fit THESE
> 38’s? Anyone have experience putting these on their Ram?
>
> - Mike
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: How to select a Brooks saddle

[Tim Gavin]

Actually, I'm thinking about the top of the Cambium All-Weather, which is
what I have on my bikes.  Its top is better (in my opinion) than the
original Cambium.

https://www.brooksengland.com/en_us/saddles/cambium/cambium-c17-carved-all-weather-black.html

On Wed, Dec 19, 2018 at 1:22 PM Tim Gavin 
wrote:

> Brooks seems to have evolved the fabric top a bit.  More/slicker rubber
> coating?
>
> On Wed, Dec 19, 2018 at 1:13 PM Hoffsta  wrote:
>
>> I tried an early Cambium C17 but experienced it eating all my shorts very
>> quickly and it seemed the fabric textured top was responsible. I saw one in
>> a shop the other day and it looked smoother. Are there different textures
>> available or did it get updated at some point? I found the saddle
>> comfortable and would consider putting one back on my rain bike if the
>> texture is improved.
>>
>> Sean H
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: How to select a Brooks saddle

[Tim Gavin]

Brooks seems to have evolved the fabric top a bit.  More/slicker rubber
coating?

On Wed, Dec 19, 2018 at 1:13 PM Hoffsta  wrote:

> I tried an early Cambium C17 but experienced it eating all my shorts very
> quickly and it seemed the fabric textured top was responsible. I saw one in
> a shop the other day and it looked smoother. Are there different textures
> available or did it get updated at some point? I found the saddle
> comfortable and would consider putting one back on my rain bike if the
> texture is improved.
>
> Sean H
>
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Re: [RBW] How to select a Brooks saddle

[Tim Gavin]

I also prefer the slotted Cambium.  It has more flex.  The non-slotted C17
felt like a Brooks Professional; the stiff top keeps its "dome" shape.
Whereas the slotted C17 flexes under my sitbones a little and feels more
like a B17.  Not as comfy as a broken-in B17, but more like a fresh one
(which is comfortable to those who are accustomed).

I have C17s on my three bikes that often spend time in the dirt, and B17s
(one copper Special, one sprung Flyer) on the two that don't see dirt often.

As for width, I agree with Will that it is related to riding position.  I
stick with 17s because they feel good in the riding positions I use.  My
rarely-ridden "townie bike" ('88 Schwinn KOM MTB now built as an upright
tourer) would probably feel good with a 190 mm wide saddle, but the Flyer I
have works fine.  Especially considering its little use.

Also, the Brooks shape makes riders very sensitive to the saddle angle.
Perfect when you find the right angle, but painful until you do.  I like
dead level, but many folks have other preferences (based on body shape,
rider position, etc).  Experiment with angle, setback, etc?

On Wed, Dec 19, 2018 at 12:10 PM Tim Bantham  wrote:

> Will's recent Email about selecting a Brooks has me thinking about trying
> a Cambium again. I've tried the Cambium C17 in the past. At first I liked
> it well enough but that changed the first time I had to do a long ride. I
> ride my Sam with Alba's and Appaloosa with Billie's. I would say that my
> position on the bike is upright-ish. Over the course of a longer ride I
> found that the C17 was downright painful. Specifically, my sit bones
> started to feel like it was grinding into the top of the saddle with every
> pedal stroke.
>
> Has anyone tried a C17 a found that you didn't like it but later had
> success with another Cambium model? Will had said that the slotted version
> of the C17 is way better than the non-slotted version. I also heard that
> the C19 was the way to go. I am skeptical of the C19 because I just don't
> know if my position is considered to up right enough to warrant a much
> wider saddle then I have ridden in the past. I realize that one's saddle
> choice is far from a one size fits all approach. I thought I'd ask for
> other users experiences as a starting point before I explore trying a
> Cambium again. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!
>
> Tim
>
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Re: [RBW] Putting My Foot Down

[Tim Gavin]

Here's a non-Rivendellian solution:  a dropper seatpost.

They're popular with MTB types in order to lower the seat while
aggressively riding (in the standing position) and quickly raise it back
once you want to sit down.

You could lower the seat before you stop, and raise it again when you start
going.

However, they aren't cheap.  They're kind of a pain to set up (routing the
control cable).  And the smallest size is 27.2 (26.8 and you're out of
luck).



I put a KS Lev dropper on my new MTB build (steel frame All-City Electric
Queen, modern components) and I'm still getting the hang of when to use it
(and why).

But I agree wholeheartedly with Grant et al that proper (read, high) saddle
height is very important.  I've tried to sit and ride after dropping the
saddle an inch or so, and pedaling just feels so wrong.

On Tue, Dec 11, 2018 at 3:21 PM Marty Gierke, Stewartstown PA <
martinpgie...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Literally. I want to be able to put my foot down from my "in the saddle"
> position and not have to lean over at all, or maybe just a little, and not
> have to do a full ballerina pointe. Like many of you I'm guessing, I have
> an ancient echo in my head that tells my how my leg should be only slightly
> bent while in the saddle, or that if I pedal backwards with the ball of my
> foot on the pedal my hips should not rock. I've taken for granted that when
> I set the saddle height to accomplish both of those, it comes at the
> expense of putting my foot down (quickly and easily) at a stop sign or
> unexpected roadside beer tent. I presume the echo is residue from some
> racer-oriented mag I once read. It's high time I release the un-racer in me
> and embrace the low-down.
>
> So how do you do it? How bent is your knee at 6 o'clock? Can you put your
> foot down?
>
> Marty
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Work Stand Suggestions

[Tim Gavin]

That pro stand is worth its price.  Lots of pounds for the buck!  Congrats
on the purchase; I hope the pickup wasn't too painful.

But those pounds are what makes Pro stands (like a Park PRS) so good;
they're sturdy and stable.  The folding-leg PCS designs work fine if you
prioritize that the stand be moveable.  But they aren't that stable once
they're loaded with a bike.

But, if you can afford a permanent bike work station, the stability of  Pro
stand is nice to have.
I believe a bench-mounted stand (like the Park PCS-12) are a better budget
choice than the PCS-10 (due to much better stability) -- but only if you
have a suitable mounting spot.

On Wed, Nov 14, 2018 at 2:39 PM Brett Callahan 
wrote:

> Just called. It is still available and I'm going to pick it up tonight.
> Thanks for the tip, I really appreciate it!
> Brett
>
> On Wednesday, November 14, 2018 at 11:18:21 AM UTC-8, Hoffsta wrote:
>>
>> I just saw this posed in another group:
>>
>> https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bop/d/park-prs-4-proffesional/6744311771.html
>>
>> If I was in Portland I'd buy it today.
>>
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Re: [RBW] Whoah! 1 x 12?????

[Tim Gavin]

Jim-

I thought so, too.  The first SRAM Eagle 12-speed was nearly $2k.

But a GX Eagle groupset retails for ~$500, and NX Eagle for ~$375.  Pretty
comparable to Shimano's offerings at the middle of the market.  But not
commodity level yet.

On Thu, Nov 8, 2018 at 8:52 AM Jim Bronson  wrote:

> The big question is price.  The first year Sram had 12, it was uber
> expensive.  Now I think they've brought out a more affordable 12 speed
> groupset, but I'm looking for commodity prices like where 9 and 10 are
> now.  I think 11 is just about at commodity levels too, but I don't think
> 12 speed probably is yet.
>
> On Wed, Nov 7, 2018 at 5:36 PM Lum Gim Fong  wrote:
>
>> The industry has gone to 12 now?
>>
>> They have a 1 x 12 on an Atlantis. Far out!.
>>
>>
>> I also wonder if, with the existing 11 and 12 cogset setups if you are
>> tied in to a certain manufacturer, component-wise, like with indexing.
>>
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Re: [RBW] Whoah! 1 x 12?????

[Tim Gavin]

Yep, I just built myself an All-City Electric Queen (steel hardtail frame)
with SRAM GX Eagle 1 x 12.  10-50t cassette with a 32t chain ring.  It
works great.  But it did require SRAM's proprietary XD freehub body, which
was an added cost to the Hope hub I used.

But I'm still not sold on 1 x for a road-oriented bike.  I'm happy with the
compact double on my gravel bike, and the triple on my Riv.  I feel that
having closer gears in the middle of the range (due to overlap from the
double/triple) is preferable, in order to find the "perfect" gear on a long
stretch of road.

Whereas, I'm OK with 1 x 12 on my trail-oriented MTB, because I'm never
pedaling for very long.  And front derailleurs can become unresponsive in
deep mud or snow.  I changed my fat bike to 1 x 10, with a 30t Wolftooth
chain ring and a 11-40 Sunrace Cassette.  Not quite as wide of range as the
GX Eagle, but it was much cheaper to convert it (since I had 2 x 10
already).

And I definitely appreciate the clutch on the rear derailleur on my MTB, to
minimize chain slap during rough riding.

I also give kudos to SRAM for making their 10-speed MTB and Road stuff work
together (Exact Actuation shift ratio).  You can use their drop-bar
shifters (like DoubleTaps or bar-ends) with MTB rear derailleurs, making
wide-range drivetrains easier to build.
And although SRAM changed the shift ratio on 11- and 12-speed MTB stuff
(X-Actuation shift ratio), you can still use 11-speed road shifters with a
10-speed MTB RD to get a wide-range 11-speed drivetrain.

At this point, my three dirt-oriented bikes (MTB, fat, and gravel) all have
SRAM drivetrains with clutch RDs.  Only my Riv and my retro-MTB-townie use
Shimano drivetrains, on triple cranks.



Speaking of SRAM bar-ends: one of the owners of the shop I work for
(Goldfinch Cyclery) found a SRAM R2C shifter and mounted it as a bar-end.
The R2C was designed for aero bars on TT bikes, so the shift lever returns
to center (AKA the most aerodynamic position) after each actuation.  It is
a trigger-shifter on a bar-end!  It's funky but he likes it.  SRAM also
makes standard-actuating bar-end shifters; both types are available in 10
and 11 speed.



On Wed, Nov 7, 2018 at 5:36 PM Lum Gim Fong  wrote:

> The industry has gone to 12 now?
>
> They have a 1 x 12 on an Atlantis. Far out!.
>
>
> I also wonder if, with the existing 11 and 12 cogset setups if you are
> tied in to a certain manufacturer, component-wise, like with indexing.
>
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Re: [RBW] Is this PV-8 hub noise normal?

[Tim Gavin]

I have two PD-8s that make almost the same noise.  It seems to dull over
time, but never goes away completely.

It's probably the sound of the dymano/magneto parts (wound stators?
whatever) going past each other.

On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 11:06 AM Tim Gavin 
wrote:

> Normal
>
> On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 10:35 AM Lum Gim Fong 
> wrote:
>
>> New hub.
>> Cannot hear while riding (a little when stopping).
>> Only when spinning by hand.
>> Not as loud as video makes it sound.
>> Normal?
>>
>> Video here:  https://flic.kr/p/2cALVap
>>
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Re: [RBW] Is this PV-8 hub noise normal?

[Tim Gavin]

Normal

On Fri, Nov 2, 2018 at 10:35 AM Lum Gim Fong  wrote:

> New hub.
> Cannot hear while riding (a little when stopping).
> Only when spinning by hand.
> Not as loud as video makes it sound.
> Normal?
>
> Video here:  https://flic.kr/p/2cALVap
>
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Re: [RBW] 650B conversion for my Road Standard?

[Tim Gavin]

On Wed, Oct 31, 2018 at 1:18 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> I've never done a 650B conversion, but I'd question whether an early Riv
> Road is the best platform: more bb drop, insufficient room for the fatter
> 584 bsd tires (can the original Riv Roads take 650B X 42?), the ride
> quality of the original as it was intended to be built up; and lastly, the
> availability of Compass EL tires in the 700C width that will fit your
> frame. My roads were built for 26" wheels and can take 32s and fenders, but
> I find the actual-width 28 mm Elk Pass tire all I need in the way of speed
> and comfort for road riding (these are labeled 32 and measure 27 and 29 on
> my 19 and 21 mm rims, respectively) and even firm dirt and gravel.
>

Patrick is correct that these issues make a Riv Road nowhere near the "best
platform" for a 650B conversion.  That would be a bike with enough tire
width clearance to fit the same overall diameter wheel, in either BSD.  But
a bike designed for 700 x 23 will rarely fit a 650 x 42 (same overall
diameter).  So there's always a compromise.

None of us are buying brand-new Road Standards, we're finding them used and
making them into our own (often as a Rivendell on a budget).  But they're
gorgeous frames that should be ridden, so I say do whatever you want in
order to improve your riding experience.

Personally, my Road Standard barely clears a 700 x 26 tire, and I vastly
prefer the ride of a 650 x 38 (Pari-Moto or Compass) to a 700 x 26 (Grand
Bois Cerf).  And the 38's are much more competent on dirt and gravel.

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Re: [RBW] Seattle area bike packer?

[Tim Gavin]

Good to know!

On Tue, Oct 30, 2018 at 11:47 AM Eric Daume  wrote:

> I’ve heard that, while you can shop anything via bikeflights, their
> insurance only covers bike stuff.
>
> Eric
>
> On Tuesday, October 30, 2018, Tim Gavin 
> wrote:
>
>> BikeFlights is just a re-seller of shipping services.
>> They made an agreement with shippers because bikes may be over-size, but
>> they are usually pretty light.  With BikeFlights, it's like you pay for the
>> weight of the bike and not the over-size fees that you would pay if you
>> went to Fed-Ex directly.
>>
>> Anyone can buy a shipping label through their website, it doesn't have to
>> be a shop.
>> If the shop that packs the bike has a Fed-Ex account, then they can
>> arrange pickup as normal.
>>
>> Also, the package doesn't have to be a bike.  I always check BikeFlights
>> whenever I'm shipping a package larger than a Priority Mail flat rate box.
>>
>> On Tue, Oct 30, 2018 at 12:31 AM Tim Butterfield <
>> timbutterfi...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks.  Does it make a difference whether or not the shop is listed on
>>> BikeFlights?
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>> On Mon, Oct 29, 2018 at 8:24 PM Rivcyclist 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I highly recommend Aaron's Bicycles in White Center, these guys used to
>>>> sell Rivendells and you'll love checking out their awesome shop in the
>>>> process.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, October 29, 2018 at 12:27:20 PM UTC-7, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Just to clarify ... I am not asking for a guarantee of future
>>>>> performance.  That's impossible to predict.  I'm just wondering about
>>>>> good/bad experiences you may have already had.  I have received one
>>>>> positive experience with Counter Balance, though with UPS shipping instead
>>>>> of BikeFlights.  I'm not sure how that affects things.  Any other points 
>>>>> of
>>>>> reference?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks.
>>>>>
>>>>> Tim
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sat, Oct 27, 2018 at 3:46 PM Tim Butterfield 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> In case my Atlantis needs to be shipped, I might need to find a bike
>>>>>> shop that can be trusted to correctly and safely pack it for BikeFlights.
>>>>>> I do not trust my local shop to do it, but am willing to take it anywhere
>>>>>> between Bellingham and Seattle to find the most trustworthy shop to do 
>>>>>> it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> For those who have already been through this process, what Seattle
>>>>>> area shop would you most trust to be able to do it right?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Tim
>>>>>>
>>>>> --
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>>>
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Re: [RBW] 650B conversion for my Road Standard?

[Tim Gavin]

I can't speak to how you'll love a bike.  But I have a Riv Road Standard
myself, and I love it.


I love how it rides on 650 x 38 tires -- but a 650b conversion will lower
the frame considerably (smaller overall wheel diameter).  Watch for pedal
strikes.  Unfortunately, I couldn't fit a wider/taller tire to mitigate
that frame drop.  Yours may clear 640 x 42, but mine does not.

The smaller diameter tires leaves clearance for metal fenders.

I tried moustache bars on it for a while, and I didn't love those.  No
perfect hand positions, just several compromised ones.  I prefer drop bars
(my favorites are Nitto Randonneur B135).  I do have an Albatross cockpit,
but I've never tried it.

To convert to 650b, you would need long-reach brakes (Tektro R559, Paul
Racer, Dia Compe centerpulls, etc), the "medium" reach brakes you have
aren't long enough.


If you are seeking a softer ride on 700c wheels, try a more supple tire
than the Ruffy Tuffy or JB.  Compass, Soma Supple Vitesse, even Panaracer
Gravel Kings are probably lighter/flexier than the Riv tires.  But, any
supple tire will be more susceptible to punctures than the Riv tires.
Compromises.  I've been riding Barlow Pass tires from Compass on my cross
bike, and I just got my first flat since May.  Not a big deal.

On Tue, Oct 30, 2018 at 10:45 AM Keith Weaver 
wrote:

> I found a Riv Road Standard frame on the SF Bay Area Craigslist 3 or 4
> years ago, and found myself compelled to pick it up. I had seen on the Riv
> website Grant describing the Albatross bar, and saying if you don't have a
> bike with these bars, you need one. I didn't really need another road bike,
> so I decided to build this up as my Albatross bar bike
>
> I built the bike fairly light, Albatross bars with cork grips and Silver
> bar end shifters, Velo Orange Grand Cru brakes, VO 50.4 BCD cranks,
> Velocity Synergy O/C wheels from Peter White, 28 mm Ruffy Tuffy tires,
> Campy Record front derailleur, Deore XT rear, wide range 10 speed cassette,
> Nitto stem and seatpost, Riv gripster pedals, Sella Anatomica saddle. I
> love the way this bike looks, sorry I don't have an easy way to link to a
> pic right now
>
> My problem is that the narrow (for a Riv) tires are transmitting a lot of
> road shock to me, especially because I'm sitting upright with these bars.
> It feels nicely light and responsive, just a bit rough. I tried to put Jack
> Brown 33.3 mm tires on and found they didn't fit at all in the rear, it
> immediately rubbed on the chain stays. I didn't even try the front,
> although the clearance looks a little better. I don't know if a 30 mm tire
> would feel much different than the ruffy tuffys.
>
> I'm hesitant to move to 650B, mostly because I like these parts,
> especially the new wheels and the VO brakes. I'm guessing the brakes
> wouldn't work for 650B, as they're listed as 47-57 mm reach. I have the
> pads at the top of the slot now with the 700c rims, but it sounds like the
> reach would change by more than 10 mm when going to 650B.
>
> Can anyone give me some input on whether I'll love this bike with 650B and
> the Albatross bars, or should I just put drops on it and look for another
> frame to be my upright bike?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Keith
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Seattle area bike packer?

[Tim Gavin]

BikeFlights is just a re-seller of shipping services.
They made an agreement with shippers because bikes may be over-size, but
they are usually pretty light.  With BikeFlights, it's like you pay for the
weight of the bike and not the over-size fees that you would pay if you
went to Fed-Ex directly.

Anyone can buy a shipping label through their website, it doesn't have to
be a shop.
If the shop that packs the bike has a Fed-Ex account, then they can arrange
pickup as normal.

Also, the package doesn't have to be a bike.  I always check BikeFlights
whenever I'm shipping a package larger than a Priority Mail flat rate box.

On Tue, Oct 30, 2018 at 12:31 AM Tim Butterfield 
wrote:

> Thanks.  Does it make a difference whether or not the shop is listed on
> BikeFlights?
>
> Tim
>
> On Mon, Oct 29, 2018 at 8:24 PM Rivcyclist  wrote:
>
>> I highly recommend Aaron's Bicycles in White Center, these guys used to
>> sell Rivendells and you'll love checking out their awesome shop in the
>> process.
>>
>>
>> On Monday, October 29, 2018 at 12:27:20 PM UTC-7, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>>
>>> Just to clarify ... I am not asking for a guarantee of future
>>> performance.  That's impossible to predict.  I'm just wondering about
>>> good/bad experiences you may have already had.  I have received one
>>> positive experience with Counter Balance, though with UPS shipping instead
>>> of BikeFlights.  I'm not sure how that affects things.  Any other points of
>>> reference?
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>> On Sat, Oct 27, 2018 at 3:46 PM Tim Butterfield 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 In case my Atlantis needs to be shipped, I might need to find a bike
 shop that can be trusted to correctly and safely pack it for BikeFlights.
 I do not trust my local shop to do it, but am willing to take it anywhere
 between Bellingham and Seattle to find the most trustworthy shop to do it.

 For those who have already been through this process, what Seattle area
 shop would you most trust to be able to do it right?

 Thanks.

 Tim

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Re: [RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Tim Gavin]

> But remember that any cassette larger than 28t usually requires an MTB
> derailleur
>



> (or longer-cage road derailleur, aka Shimano GS or SRAM Wi-Fli)
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Tim Gavin]

David-

If you like triples, then you probably want a drivetrain with a wide range
and some good, low gears.

*Compact Double:*
You can get that combination easily with a wide-range rear cassette (for
example, 11-34t) and a standard "compact double" crankset (110 bcd, 50/34
rings).  The 34:34 is a 1:1 low gear, which is lowest for most non-touring
bikes.

You can get lower than that with MTB cassettes (for example, 11-40t).  But
remember that any cassette larger than 28t usually requires an MTB
derailleur, and anything larger than 36t usually requires a new (aka ugly)
MTB derailleur and/or a Wolftooth Goat/Roadlink adapter.

*Subcompact Double:*
Or, you can get lower than that with "subcompact" crankset, often using a
110/74 bcd (aka the inner two rings of a triple).  Others use a smaller
bcd, or a direct-mount (like the White VBC) to fit smaller rings.

With a "subcompact" crankset (Sugino 40/26 is popular around here), you can
use a smaller cassette (11-26t would still give you a 1:1 low gear) which
is lighter and uses standard "road" derailleurs.

I owned a Roadeo for a short time, and set it up this way with a VO
Cyclotouriste 46/30 crankset and 11-28t cassette (with vintage
Sachs/Campagnolo Ergopower drivetrain).  My only complaint with the gearing
was the jump between 46/30 seemed pretty large, and usually required a rear
shift at the same time to find a sensible gear progression.



There are options to use a very-wide-range rear cassette and a single front
chainring (called "1x" aka "1 by").  But I believe that this gearing is OK
off-road but leaves too many gaps in the gearing mostly used on the road.

On Thu, Oct 25, 2018 at 11:22 AM David Wadstrup 
wrote:

> I actually forgot all about Sugino! Thanks for the reminder. I don’t think
> I’d use the XD2, but will check out their road cranks later this evening.
>
> Gearing is something I’m not sure about. I’d love some advice. I have
> triples on other bikes and love them, but want a double for sure on the
> Roadeo. I won’t race, per se, but wouldn’t mind a racy “training” set up.
> I’m in good shape and weigh 165lb. Also something good for serious
> climbing. Maybe good racing and good hill climbing ratios are mutually
> exclusive? I don’t know enough to say. But if they are, I’d lean more
> towards the good hill climber over a real high end sprinter. Does this make
> sense? What would you recommend up front? And in back on the cassette for
> that matter?
>
> Thanks!
>
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Re: [RBW] Got a SP hub! Works good.

[Tim Gavin]

Yep, that's what I've heard.

I broke the plastic mounting tab off one of mine in a crash.  I'm trying to
epoxy it back together, but it may never recover.

But I sure do love how the Luxos U works (when it works).

On Mon, Oct 22, 2018 at 5:43 PM Ed Fausto  wrote:

> *“Issues with the plastic housing (durability)”*
>
> Hi Tim, I have 4 data points on this issue.
>
> My 2 units of Luxus U broke off at the mounting holes, same from 2 of my
> friends.
>
> I now shifted to IQ-X and so far it is still ok.
>
>
> On 22 Oct 2018, at 11:30 PM, Tim Gavin 
> wrote:
>
> ssues with the plastic housing (durability
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: One month VO Touring rear hub review.

[Tim Gavin]

I second Igor's recommendation; too much grease can gunk up the pawls.  A
light oil is better than grease.  If you use grease, use a small amount.

I have about 1500 miles on my VO touring hub, with zero problems.

On Fri, Oct 19, 2018 at 7:23 PM Ash  wrote:

> Have this hub on my Joe A.  14 months and 3k or so miles later, it is good
> as new.
>
> That said, because of the loud ratchet sound, I was thinking of replacing
> the wheel in favor of XT hub.
>
> Thanks to Lum for opening this thread.  And William, can't thank you
> enough for the grease idea.  The problem is solved!
>
> I squeezed a quarter tube of grease into the ratchet well.  No I can
> barely hear it.  It is so quiet I'm beginning to wonder if all that grease
> is going to cause some other problem!  Anyway, I enjoy the rides a lot more
> now.
>
> oh and I had one small issue with this hub.  I do not know the names of
> various parts of the hub, but the thing that slides into the frame was ever
> so slightly bigger. Had to file that piece just a bit.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Saturday, 13 October 2018 11:58:17 UTC-7, William! wrote:
>>
>> I have the disc version of this hub on two wheelsets. A year in and I
>> still love it. The noise does quiet down after a bit, particularly if you
>> pack it full of grease.
>
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Re: [RBW] Got a SP hub! Works good.

[Tim Gavin]

They do.  The B Luxos U has a built-in capacitor that holds the charge.
The capacitor was added to regulate the voltage for the USB-charging
function.  But it also allows the light to hold on to a small charge when
you pedal below the charging threshold.  The Luxos U LEDs can provide some
light even when you stop (at a low level and for a limited time).

However, the Luxos U has some other drawbacks, notably visual artifacts in
the beam (due to the very-wide-angle reflector), and issues with the
plastic housing (durability and possible water intrusion).

The IQX followed after the Luxos U, but it doesn't have the USB-charging
function (and therefore no capacitor).

On Sat, Oct 20, 2018 at 1:48 AM Lum Gim Fong  wrote:

> As I commuted home tonight I was wondering why in 2018 they can’t invent
> dyno lights that don’t flicker.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Mounting Supernova E3

[Tim Gavin]

Hayden-

I assume you are trying to use the full "adjustable gooseneck" mount on the
Supernova?  The one that is designed to bolt straight into the fork crown
(where the M-1 needs to go)?
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y8SpOK-zJgI/TnOA2UFSUhI/AE8/c8ChnbJXyjc/s320/dynolight%2B005.jpg

I would replace either the lower or upper bolt of the "gooseneck" mount
with a longer bolt (and nut, maybe), and then go into the side of the fork
eyelet or rack eyelet.

This guy removed the gooseneck entirely and just bolted the Supernova to
the eyelet on the side of his rack.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L0eCq4sUe7o/Ve9ALbBFYYI/nPw/Pc0gcT1ozZs/s1600/IMG_6555.JPG


On Wed, Oct 17, 2018 at 9:41 AM Hayden  wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> I just received my bike and it came with a Supernova E3 pro and I am also
> running a Riv Nitto Mark's  M-1 rack.
>
> The light's mount seems to want to only mount on something forward facing,
> I do not want to mount to handlebars. Right now I have it directly to an
> upper braze-on on my fork lower then my rack but the light is turned 90
> degrees so the beam to not hit the road correctly. Was wondering if anyone
> found a way to mount this light to a rack or a fork braze on and work
> correctly.
>
> Thanks
> -H
>
>
> On Wednesday, April 25, 2012 at 1:24:03 PM UTC-7, Lynne Fitz wrote:
>>
>> I did it like this:
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lynnefitz/4880093774/
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lynnefitz/4879487225/
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lynnefitz/4879488343/
>>
>> Custom rack, fork and frame, yes. :-)  But the mounting still took a
>> bit of puzzling out and a trip or two to my favorite old-fashioned
>> hardware store.
>>
>> Lynne F
>>
>> On Apr 25, 7:40 am, Tom Harrop  wrote:
>> > I've mounted them on both a Mark's rack and a Nitto mini-front. My
>> methods
>> > were a bit kludgey and the aesthetics may displease the rando crowd but
>> I
>> > can tell you they work fine.
>> >
>> > For the mini-front I bolted the Supernova multimount to the hole in the
>> > front tab of the rack. That gives a great light position and I don't
>> think
>> > water spray has been a problem because I have the long Berthoud
>> fenders.
>> > It's also protected from bumps by the tyre. Photo here<
>> http://flic.kr/p/bvSBMV>.
>> > The downside is that it's highly visible when the bike is parked and
>> I'm a
>> > bit worried it will get lifted.
>> >
>> > On the Mark's I made a little mount by bending some stainless steel. It
>> > worked out a quite similar shape to the mount VO sells<
>> http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/lighting/dynamo/vo...>
>> but
>> > obviously heavier (maybe stronger too?). If I'd known about the VO
>> mount
>> > before I made it I probably would've just bought one of them. I
>> attached
>> > the mount to the right hand rack stay by using a spare daruma bolt, or
>> you
>> > can piggy-back it where the stay attaches to the rack (like in this
>> photo).
>> > In this case the light is less visible and better protected under the
>> > basket, but you have to put up with a bit of tyre shadow.
>> >
>> > Good luck, I'd be interested to see some photos when you're done!
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Quick removal of full-coverage fenders

[Tim Gavin]

Joe-

Watch the video on that page, and it's clear that the rear fender uses
clips at the seat tube and brake bridge.  So the rear fender could be
removed with relative ease.

The front fender, however, attaches to the bracket *before* you bolt it to
the fork crown, so it would require removal of that bolt to be removed
(Sheldon's nut would make that relatively easy.

However, these PDW Sodapop fenders don't provide that much coverage, and
since they have no stays they would likely vibrate all over the place and
create a noisy racket.

On Wed, Oct 17, 2018 at 9:26 AM Joe Bernard  wrote:

> These PDW fenders are apparently quick-release, although I've had an oddly
> difficult time finding anything that shows how it's done.
>
> https://ridepdw.com/products/sodapop-fenders?variant=24676947585
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone catch the hint on Instagram of a 26" Compass knobby?

[Tim Gavin]

Schwalbe had a great 26" all-road tire in the Thunder Burt (which my 26er
wears).  Then, they discontinued that size.

On Mon, Oct 15, 2018 at 4:06 PM Matt Bryant  wrote:

> I'm really surprised Panaracer, Schwalbe, or WTB (or even Soma!) hasn't
> released one of the new "gravel" treads in a 26" size. There's a legion of
> old 26" bikes waiting to be repurposed as modern gravel bikes, but the tire
> choices are fewer and fewer these days... the options these days are pretty
> much just heavy touring tires and a few lightweight XC racing tires. I'd
> kill for a 26x2.0-2.2 Gravel King, G-One, Byway, or Cazadero. The Compass
> tires will almost certainly be too delicate and pricey for my purposes.
>
>
> On Monday, October 15, 2018 at 5:23:13 AM UTC-7, Chris Lampe 2 wrote:
>>
>> Compass posted an image of one of their knobby tires and someone asked
>> about a 26" version for when RTP won't cut it and Compass' reply was "we
>> remain committed to 26"."
>>
>> There are a lot of nice vintage MTB's out there along with a few really
>> nice modern 26" bikes and I bet we see some killer builds based around
>> these tires.assuming I'm taking the hint correctly.
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone tried 10 speed indexing with the Altus/Acera big pulley derailleur?

[Tim Gavin]

It should have no problem.  I use Shimano 10-speed bar-ends with a 9-speed
XT rear derailleur, and it indexes perfectly.

The Altus/Acera derailleur has the exact same shift ratio (SIS).

On Fri, Sep 14, 2018 at 1:27 AM, lconley  wrote:

> I have successfully used the Altus for 9 speed indexing (Dura Ace indexing
> bar end on thumbshift adapter) and it has enough travel to shift the chain
> into the spokes (don't ask) on my Clementine. Shimano cassette on VO
> touring hub.
>
> Laing
> Cocoa FL
>
>
> On Thursday, September 13, 2018 at 4:44:47 PM UTC-4, Justin, Oakland wrote:
>
>> Like the subject says:
>> Anyone tried 10 speed indexing with the Altus/Acera big pulley derailleur?
>>
>> Road Shimano indexing I should say.
>>
>> -J
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: front rack bag for a 54ram. what do people here like.

[Tim Gavin]

I have a Randonneur bag from listmember David B, aka Treetop bags.
https://treetop.bigcartel.com/category/front-bags

He can do semi-custom.

I use a VO decaleur and Nitto Mark's Rack.



On Fri, Sep 14, 2018 at 8:06 AM, Lum Gim Fong  wrote:

> Compass/Nitto for pearl/tech deluxe stems decaleur.
> Berthoud GB 25 bag.
> VO Randonneur rack.
>
> On my 54 Ram now but still debating to sell them all and go
> rackless/Berthoud bagless in favor of no racks and just banana sax and
> bartube bags.
> VO rack weghs 220 or so grams
> GB 25 bag is 600+ grams empty.
> Decaleur is 30-sonething grams?
>
> Banana sax and bartube combo are way lighter than above combo.
> But for the function of easy bag access, bag with map holder, storage
> volume, stylish one piece fixed strut rack with great dyno light
> hangability, the VO/GB25/Decailer combo is great.
>
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Re: [RBW] Pacenti Brevet 700c rim questions.

[Tim Gavin]

Brevet rims are tubeless-ready, so they're closer to the "tricky" end of
the spectrum for mounting.

I have Pacenti PL23 650b rims (tubeless-ready), and they're tougher to
mount tires on than the Synergy rims I used previously.

However, tires bead up more reliably on tubeless-ready rims, once you get
them mounted.  Synergy rims required wrestling and soap each time to get
the tire fully seated on the bead.

On Tue, Aug 28, 2018 at 11:53 AM, Lum Gim Fong 
wrote:

> Easy to mount Grand Bois tires on them?
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Full brimmed hat recommendations

[Tim Gavin]

Laing-

Likewise, I've never found a motorcycle helmet that was* too *big.  But my
2XL HJC (Sy-Max model, IIRC) fits my 7 7/8 head pretty comfortably.

I once got a 2XL Bern Brentwood bicycle helmet.  I had to exchange it for
the 3XL!

-Tim

On Tue, Aug 21, 2018 at 8:34 AM, lconley  wrote:

> Put me in the Tilley camp. Bought my 1st one when I was taking sailing
> lessons on the recommendation of the instructor. They even make them that
> are too big for my head - wish I could find a motorcycle helmet that was
> too big.
>
> Made in Canada.
>
> Laing
> Cocoa FL
>
>
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Re: [RBW] What tires fit good on 700c Sun CR18 rims?

[Tim Gavin]

Avoid any tubeless-ready tires; they seem to have a tighter bead than
non-tubeless ones.

I bet the absolute easiest to mount would be an open tubular, like
Challenge's PRO series.  The Strada Bianca Pro is their widest road tread
at 30 mm, and they have some wider ones (Alamanzo and Gravel Grinder) with
semi-knobby tread.
http://www.challengetech.it/products/gravel/strada-bianca-pro-040/en

They're handmade on a tubular tire casing, and the bead is a very simple
cord folded into the casing.  They're about the same price as Compass EL
tires.



On Tue, Aug 21, 2018 at 12:36 AM, Lum Gim Fong 
wrote:

>
> Anyone recommend a tire that goes on/off these rims easy and by hand (no
> levers).
> Will GB Cypress?
> Paselas are very hard to get on/off even with levers feel like I am gonna
> break something. Would not want to have to change a flat in the field.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Adding Canti mounts to a Ram???

[Tim Gavin]

Patrick-

The Paul Racer M (Medium) would be the correct reach (47-57 mm) for your
frame.

https://www.rivbike.com/collections/braking/products/brakes-centerpull-paul-racer-medium

Paul and Modern Bike in Des Moines sell them by the caliper, so you could
just get a rear one for the problem area.

You'd need a cable hanger as well.
https://www.rivbike.com/collections/braking/products/nitto-brake-hangers-key-fob
.


Just something to think about, maybe next time you install fenders.

On Mon, Aug 20, 2018 at 11:48 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Thanks, Tim. So I'll not worry any more about cantilevers, unless I take
> the deep plunge and send the frame in to have the seatstay bridge raised a
> bit.
>
> I was using a very nice medium-reach dual pivot -- one of the models Riv
> sells -- and the arms interfered grossly with the fenders whenever I
> applied the brakes; tried denting the fenders to accommodate the arms, and
> just messed up the fenders. Got new fenders and a pair of superlatively
> nice Dura Ace 7400 calipers; and these interfered, but far, far less, and a
> little, discrete dent or 2 fixed that. But really, the frame needs a higher
> rear bridge to really make the bike fender-perfect.
>
> I'd consider the Paul or Compass centerpulls, but (1) the DAs now work
> fine with the fenders "adjusted", and (2) they have too much reach, as this
> frame was built for slightly less than 57 mm pad reach. And I know enough
> about Mafac Racers to judge that they'd not add enough benefit to make it
> worth swapping out the DA calipers.
>
> On Mon, Aug 20, 2018 at 7:26 AM, Tim Gavin  > wrote:
>
>> Patrick-
>>
>> Yes.
>>
>> Centerpulls have more clearance at the bridge/crown than sidepull
>> brakes.  Especially dual-pivot sidepulls, which intrude on the fender space
>> when opened.  I switched from Tektro R559s to Paul Racers on my Riv Road
>> 650b because the R559 kept bending the front fender.
>>
>> You'd have to measure the reach of your brake setup, but "medium" reach
>> centerpulls like Paul Racer Ms, Weinmann/DC 610s, or vintage MAFAC Racers
>> would probably fit.
>> "Long" reach centerpulls like Paul Racers, Compass, Weinmann/DC 750s, and
>> MAFAC RAIDs would probably have too much reach.
>>
>> Centerpulls with stiffer arms (Compass and Paul) give the most confident
>> braking feel, but most can be made satisfactory with some fresh cables and
>> KoolStop pads.
>>
>> On Sat, Aug 18, 2018 at 1:18 PM, Patrick Moore 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Mark and others: I've been toying with a similar idea, replacing the
>>> calipers with cantis on my 2003 custom for better fender clearance. The
>>> calipers *are* 7400 Dura Aces, and they clear fenders as well as any
>>> other caliper that I can think of, except perhaps some of the old, cheap
>>> Weinmanns.
>>>
>>> But perhaps Mafac or Paul or Compass centerpulls will give all the
>>> clearance that crown and bridge allow, so that cantis, and the cost and
>>> hassle of adding bosses, aren't needed? Can anyone say?
>>>
>>> Thanks, Patrick
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Aug 17, 2018 at 7:28 PM, Mark Schneider 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I had a similar issue with my Homer. To get more clearance for fenders
>>>> with wider tires I found a very clean set of Mafac Raids, and put them  on
>>>> my Homer, they work very well. Compass make centerpulls that are very
>>>> similar to the Raids but $$$. Paul Components Racer's  are also very nice
>>>> with reach between 559's and the Raids. So yes I would consider
>>>> centerpulls. I got my Raids for around 60$ on EBay, but it took a while.
>>>>
>>>> On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 12:33:52 PM UTC-7, Mike K. wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Gang, I love my blue Ram.  It rides well and it fits me just right.
>>>>> I'm currently rocking some 700c x 32 Panaracer tires, but after this
>>>>> weekend's wet and muddy ride, and with the Ram being my only bike, I want
>>>>> bigger tires, preferably some Barlow Pass or even Gravel King (SK?) but 
>>>>> the
>>>>> current setup won't allow it.
>>>>>
>>>>> So, I could switch from Tektro 539 to 559 and eek out a set of 700x37
>>>>> tires, OR I know a great frame builder who is open to adding canti mounts,
>>>>> which would open up some options for me to go fenders and 38's or even
>>>>> switch to 650b.
>>>>>
>>>>> Again, I love the Ram, so I don't want to go out a

Re: [RBW] Re: Adding Canti mounts to a Ram???

[Tim Gavin]

Patrick-

Yes.

Centerpulls have more clearance at the bridge/crown than sidepull brakes.
Especially dual-pivot sidepulls, which intrude on the fender space when
opened.  I switched from Tektro R559s to Paul Racers on my Riv Road 650b
because the R559 kept bending the front fender.

You'd have to measure the reach of your brake setup, but "medium" reach
centerpulls like Paul Racer Ms, Weinmann/DC 610s, or vintage MAFAC Racers
would probably fit.
"Long" reach centerpulls like Paul Racers, Compass, Weinmann/DC 750s, and
MAFAC RAIDs would probably have too much reach.

Centerpulls with stiffer arms (Compass and Paul) give the most confident
braking feel, but most can be made satisfactory with some fresh cables and
KoolStop pads.

On Sat, Aug 18, 2018 at 1:18 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Mark and others: I've been toying with a similar idea, replacing the
> calipers with cantis on my 2003 custom for better fender clearance. The
> calipers *are* 7400 Dura Aces, and they clear fenders as well as any
> other caliper that I can think of, except perhaps some of the old, cheap
> Weinmanns.
>
> But perhaps Mafac or Paul or Compass centerpulls will give all the
> clearance that crown and bridge allow, so that cantis, and the cost and
> hassle of adding bosses, aren't needed? Can anyone say?
>
> Thanks, Patrick
>
>
>
> On Fri, Aug 17, 2018 at 7:28 PM, Mark Schneider 
> wrote:
>
>> I had a similar issue with my Homer. To get more clearance for fenders
>> with wider tires I found a very clean set of Mafac Raids, and put them  on
>> my Homer, they work very well. Compass make centerpulls that are very
>> similar to the Raids but $$$. Paul Components Racer's  are also very nice
>> with reach between 559's and the Raids. So yes I would consider
>> centerpulls. I got my Raids for around 60$ on EBay, but it took a while.
>>
>> On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 12:33:52 PM UTC-7, Mike K. wrote:
>>
>>> Gang, I love my blue Ram.  It rides well and it fits me just right. I'm
>>> currently rocking some 700c x 32 Panaracer tires, but after this weekend's
>>> wet and muddy ride, and with the Ram being my only bike, I want bigger
>>> tires, preferably some Barlow Pass or even Gravel King (SK?) but the
>>> current setup won't allow it.
>>>
>>> So, I could switch from Tektro 539 to 559 and eek out a set of 700x37
>>> tires, OR I know a great frame builder who is open to adding canti mounts,
>>> which would open up some options for me to go fenders and 38's or even
>>> switch to 650b.
>>>
>>> Again, I love the Ram, so I don't want to go out and get a different
>>> frame and try to tweak the fit, again. So I'm curious: what's your take on
>>> what I'm thinking about? Is the rear bridge even tall enough for me to go
>>> bigger than 38? is 650b a good fit with the Ram? Or am I freaking nuts and
>>> just need to throw some 35's on it, shut up, and keep riding?!
>>>
>>> Any and all thoughts welcome.
>>>
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>
>
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Re: [RBW] Sunrace 8-speed cassettes

[Tim Gavin]

Yes, Sunrace cassettes have standard Shimano spacing.  They're fine,
especially for the money.

Just make sure your rear derailleur can handle a 34t sprocket.

On Wed, Aug 15, 2018 at 11:32 AM, 'Forrest' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Does anyone have experience with the Sunrace 11/12/13-34 8-speed
> cassettes? Should/will they work as well with Claris 8-speed brifters as
> the Shimano cassettes? Thanks,  -- Forrest (Iowa City)
>
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Re: [RBW] How do Rivendells fare fenderless on dry salty winter roads?

[Tim Gavin]

Even well-fitted, full-coverage fenders don't prevent dry salt from getting
all over my bike during a winter road ride.  It's like gravel/trail dust in
the summer, it gets everywhere.

That's why I don't ride on the road much in the winter; my primary winter
riding is on trails.

I did go on a group winter road ride last year, and I took my plastic (CF)
gravel bike.  It was equipped with 45 Nrth Gravdal studded tires and SKS
P45 longboard fenders (with mudflaps), yet my entire bike was rime-coated
like an ancient mariner after the ~20 mile ride.

And I never ride my steel bikes in the winter.   Even a non-ferrous frame
has steel bits (bolts, chain, etc) that show rust pretty quickly, so
frequent washes are best.

On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 11:07 PM, Lum Gim Fong 
wrote:

> Yes, fenderless.
>
> I grow increasingly concerned, over  the years, of front end wrecks due to
> the possibility of fender or rack failures as I have read about them
> happenning, and now the latest blagh post. I meticulously mount fenders so
> as to be as in-built stress free as poss. But I still wonder if one day the
> clock will run out.
>
> So I have stopped riding with fenders and racks and find that a nice
> banana sax and bartube or Brooks Milford are good enough for my load
> carrying and no need for racks/fenders.
>
> But I cringe at the thought of riding fenderless on salty winter roads on
> my Rambouillet. I only ride dry roads in winter, and around here that means
> white with dry salt.
>
> If you have run your Rivs fenderless on dry salty roads, how have they
> fared?
>
> Thanks for relating your experiences!
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Adding Canti mounts to a Ram???

[Tim Gavin]

Center pull brakes would maximize fender/tire clearance without requiring
brazing and paint.

On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 2:37 PM, Mike K.  wrote:

> Another question: should I maybe consider center pulls?
>
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Re: [RBW] Steilacoom or Barlow Pass

[Tim Gavin]

I rode Steilacooms on my bike all spring, and I swapped them for Barlows
once the ground dried.  Steilacooms are fantastic tires, and very very fast
for a knobby.  They roll great on everything; they have enough tread for a
little mud, but that tread doesn't seem to drag too badly on the road.

However, Barlows really are better on pavement.  On pavement, the
Steilacooms feel like they roll at 95% efficiency, where the Barlows feel
like 99%.

The Steilacooms have an audibile "hum" on pavement from the tread, but
Barlows have an audible "whoosh" noise when rolling.  A tossup.

Both tires are about equally great on gravel.

I haven't flatted any of my Compass tires yet.  So long as I don't ride in
the street gutter (where the sharp debris collects), I don't have a lot of
flats with any tire.  But I'm not in goathead country.  Both tires are
tubeless-compatible, which is claimed to reduce flats in thorn country.


Eric-
In your situation, I'd recommend Barlows.  The tread on Steilacooms is
intended for muddy cyclocross courses, and it is overkill for dry roads.



On Mon, Aug 13, 2018 at 6:45 AM, 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Barlow will do you just fine. I’ve ridden them on fairly technical single
> track, no worries (though I prefer the Steilacooms for their grip in loose
> and mud and ruts/roots). Some people get more flats, depending on terrain,
> debris, and riding style. My suggestion: get the EL and experience the
> plush ride benchmark. That way you can do your own cost/benifit analysis.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
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Re: [RBW] WTB 63cm Roadeo/Riv Road Frameset

[Tim Gavin]

David-

I've owned both a 59 Roadeo and 59 Riv Road Standard, so allow me to share
my impressions.

The Roadeo has larger tire clearance; it was designed around
standard/medium reach brakes, not the short-reach brakes of the Riv Road.

The Roadeo is the faster/lighter of the two; its tubeset is thinner.
Remember that in the 59 and larger sizes, though, you get more standard
tubing (IIRC .8/.5/.8), not the thin .65/.45/.65 of the smaller sizes.  The
Roadeo doesn't "plane", but it has a great ride.

The Roadeo fork is lighter and has a even better feel than the wonderful
531 fork on the Road Standard.

I think the Riv Road has a ride that is similar to a Rambouillet/Romulus
(based on others' descriptions) than the sporty ride of the Roadeo.
Ergo, if you're interested in a Riv Road, you should also consider the
Ram/Rom/Redwood (65 cm and up).


However, nothing beats the gorgeous Newvex/Riv lugs, cloisonne head badge,
and "Rivendell" downtube script of the Riv Road Standard.


Personally, I don't have much need for a fancy, sporty, pavement-only road
bike, so I moved my Roadeo on to another list-member.  I kept the Riv Road
Standard, but I've adapted it "a la randonneur" with 650b wheels, fenders,
and now a low-trail fork.

On Wed, Aug 8, 2018 at 12:39 PM, TopsfieldRider 
wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I’m considering building up a streamlined, light-ish road bike to
> compliment my stable of light to heavily accessoried touring bikes.
> Something without baskets or racks or fenders, etc. Does anyone out there
> have a 63cm or bigger Roadeo franeset they’ve been looking to pass along?
> I’d be equally or perhaps even more interested in a Rivendell Road in the
> same size.
>
> Please let me know if so or if you have any leads.
>
> Thanks,
>
> David
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Please tell me about your experience with caliper braked Hillbornes.

[Tim Gavin]

I swapped my R559s for Paul Racers because the R559s intruded upon fender
space.  Centerpulls do not.

I thought the Pauls had better lever feel, because they are stiffer than
the R559s.  Braking performance was only slightly better than R559s, though
(both brakes on Kool-Stop pads).


> On Tuesday, July 31, 2018 at 5:35 PM UTC-4, Brett Callahan wrote:
>>
>> Friends,
>>
>> I'm considering the purchase of a lightly used Sam Hillborne--the caliper
>> brake version. The only thing giving me pause is that it has been a while
>> since I had anything with caliper brakes. The long reach required would
>> seem to limit my options to the Paul Racer Centerpulls and the
>> Tektro/Silver R559 brakes. Anyone want to share their experiences with
>> these brakes, particularly on the Hillborne?
>>
>> If money were no object, would replacing R559s with Pauls be a good idea?
>> (The bike would come with R559s on it, but I am who I am and will look to
>> tinker eventually...)
>>
>> For background, intended use is as a primarily on road bike with a small
>> front rack, 38mm tires, and fenders. I'm six foot two, and weigh 235-245. I
>> live in Portland, so the bike will be ridden in the rain.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Brett
>>
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Re: [RBW] Help me diagnose chain slip cause?

[Tim Gavin]

Brett-  Unless you're a mega-miler, I doubt you could have worn down a
Silver crankset yet.

Must be something else.

On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 10:52 AM, Brett Callahan 
wrote:

> Hi Tim, relatively certain. The crankset is the Rivendell Silver double. I
> use the big ring almost exclusively and it shows some signs of wear on the
> teeth. The small ring goes basically unused unless I'm loaded for camping
> and the teeth show almost no wear. The slippage occurs whether in the big
> or small ring, hence my conclusion that the back half of the bike is the
> issue.
>
> I guess if I'm replacing things, that's something to add to the list,
> though.
>
> On Monday, July 23, 2018 at 8:41:27 AM UTC-7, Tim Gavin wrote:
>>
>> You didn't mention the condition of the crankset.  How are its teeth?
>>
>> Aka, are you positive that the skip is happening in the rear of the
>> drivetrain?
>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] Help me diagnose chain slip cause?

[Tim Gavin]

You didn't mention the condition of the crankset.  How are its teeth?

Aka, are you positive that the skip is happening in the rear of the
drivetrain?

On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 10:37 AM, Brett Callahan 
wrote:

> I'm at wit's end and would be grateful for suggestions.
>
> Setup:  My Atlantis is running a rivish setup. 8 speed Shimano Cassette,
> 11-32; 8 speed SRAM chain; Shimano Altus rear derailleur; indexed 8 speed
> Ultegra bar ends. All parts have been previously used on other bikes I own
> without issue. My previous setup on this bike, which relied on friction
> thumb shifting, worked without issue.
>
> The chain is not particularly worn (I don't have calipers, but it has at
> most a few hundred miles on it). It does have 6 or so extra links spliced
> into it using a second power link in order to accommodate the long chain
> stays.  The cassette appears to be in ok shape--no shark fins yet. If it
> comes down to replacing parts, I'll start there. The derailleur? It's an
> Altus--basically bullet proof, right? It's limits are set properly.
>
> Problem: I experience chain slip when the chain is under load. I cannot
> replicate the problem with the bike on a work stand. It's minimal when the
> chain is in the center two cogs of the rear cassette, and increases in
> higher or lower gears. It is not the chain skipping up or down the cassette
> before settling into gear as might happen when missing shifts or with
> improper indexing--it feels as though two or three links "skip" across the
> top of the cassette periodically.
>
> Suggestions? I'm not opposed to replacing parts. A new 8 speed chain and
> cassette don't cost much these days, but it just seems like they shouldn't
> need it yet. I've also considered upgrading the derailleur to a Deore
> model. I'd prefer not to change the shifters, which I like. The only reason
> I haven't done all that yet is that I'm worried there's a simple solution
> I'm missing, and that the problem might remain.
>
> Any thoughts appreciated.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Brett, grumpily and bumpily grinding his gears across PDX.
>
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Re: [RBW] Is the Roadeo gone?

[Tim Gavin]

Yep I love Compass tires.  The pictured tires (Challenge Gravel Grinders)
were really just for a fit test; the clearance was a little too tight for
comfort.  I rode 700 x 32 Compass tires on my Roadeo most of the time, and
sold them with the frame.  I could have fit fenders above the 32s if
desired, but I tried to keep my Roadeo stripped-down.  Turns out, I just
don't ride skinny tires any more, so I couldn't justify owning an
incredible frame for them.  Moved on to a very happy list member in
Singapore.

I currently have 700 x 38 Barlow Pass tires on my plastic (CF) gravel bike,
recently swapped from 700 x 38 Steilacooms.  And my Riv Road Standard has
650 x 42 and 38 (front/rear) Compass tires.

I haven't set any of them up tubeless yet, but I intend to.

On Fri, Jul 20, 2018 at 9:16 AM, Don Compton  wrote:

> Thanks. It's goathead season around here, and I am finally going to try
> tubeless. I am looking at the Compass 700x35.
>
> On Friday, July 20, 2018 at 6:07:52 AM UTC-7, Tim Gavin wrote:
>>
>> Don-
>>
>> My 59 cm Roadeo fit an actual 38 mm tire with minimal (~2 mm) clearance
>> (chainstay pictured below).  A 700 x 35 will fit yours with safer
>> clearances.
>>
>>
>> ​
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 19, 2018 at 9:45 PM, Don Compton  wrote:
>>
>>> I was looking for the Roadeo on the Riv site, and couldn't find it. I am
>>> thinking of going to a Compass tubeless tire in a 700x35 size and was
>>> wondering if it would fit my 59cm Roadeo.
>>>
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Re: [RBW] What’s the largest cassette

[Tim Gavin]

Yep, the 8- and 9-speed XT rear derailleurs can accommodate a 36t cog.

If you want even lower gearing, you could fit a 40t cog by adding a
Wolftooth Roadlink.  Sunrace makes 11-40 9-speed cassettes.

On Thu, Jul 19, 2018 at 1:08 PM, Forrest Harvey 
wrote:

> Whatever the largest they make is which I believe is either a 12-34 or
> 12-36
>
> On Thu, Jul 19, 2018 at 10:49 AM, Carla Waugh 
> wrote:
>
>> What’s the largest cassette I can use with a nine speed XT rear der and a
>> 40 chainring on a 1 x 9?
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Should I be concerned?

[Tim Gavin]

Yeah, hard to tell from photos.  But I recommend taking it to a competent
shop that can check its alignment.

On Thu, Jul 19, 2018 at 12:30 PM, Jeffrey Marco 
wrote:

> The bottom of the top tube and the down tube look ok to me, no ripples or
> cracks. The fork looks bent back slightly. I've looked at quite a few pics
> of Rams on flickr to compare and they all look slightly bent... So I don't
> know...
>
> On Thursday, July 19, 2018 at 10:02:18 AM UTC-4, Ray Varella wrote:
>>
>> Does the Downtube have the same wrinkled paint at the head tube lug?
>> That looks like the result of a crash. Is the fork bent?
>>
>> Ray
>>
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Re: [RBW] Help sizing a AHH (Homer Hilsen)

[Tim Gavin]

Based on your PBH, I doubt that the 61 cm would feel "too small".  That
said, you may end up with more seat setback and a longer stem than the
current owner.


On Wed, Jul 18, 2018 at 3:25 PM, Eric Floden  wrote:

> If price is favorable then buy and try now. Upsize later if needed.
>
> Then again l have had way too many too-small bikes so who knows
>
> EricF
> Sitting in shade,  with his too-small XL MEC Cote
> New Edinburg ON
>
> On Wed, Jul 18, 2018, 16:22 James Copp  wrote:
>
>> I have been looking at a 61cm AHH for sale in my area.  My PBH is 90 cm,
>> more or less.  It is for sale at a good price but I am hesitating because
>> RBW suggests maybe I am closer to a 63cm.  With that being said, I have
>> never seen a 63 for sale and the 61 is accessible now.  I have done a lot
>> of research about sizing, but want to know what ya'll think.  Could I make
>> a 61cm work?
>>
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Re: [RBW] You like Hetres or Compass 42's better?

[Tim Gavin]

Jan has said that Hetres are great, but Compass tires are improved upon
those.

On Wed, Jun 20, 2018 at 3:04 PM, Lum Gim Fong  wrote:

> You like Hetres or Compass 42's better?
> Why?
>
> Needing a replacement soon and wanted to get some feedback.
>
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Re: [RBW] dogs on Rivs

[Tim Gavin]

I've installed this basket on a couple customer bikes.  It's not as fancy
looking as some of the others, but it seems well designed.

https://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Basket-Handlebar-Mounts-Black/dp/B003OFZ8YQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?=sl1=ajc58-20=df2a036ae3b11410165fb8b1c9409d97

On Wed, Jun 20, 2018 at 12:49 PM, Tim Gavin 
wrote:

> https://www.k9ofmine.com/dog-bike-baskets/
>
> On Wed, Jun 20, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Jim S.  wrote:
>
>> I'm thinking about carrying a small dog in a Wald basket - I think the
>> dog would love it.
>>
>> I've never tried it. I have two questions. (1) If you carry your dog on
>> your bike, and have photos, would you mind sharing? (2) I'm not sure if I
>> can trust the dog to not jump out - any ideas on safely securing her?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any responses.
>>
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Re: [RBW] dogs on Rivs

[Tim Gavin]

https://www.k9ofmine.com/dog-bike-baskets/

On Wed, Jun 20, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Jim S.  wrote:

> I'm thinking about carrying a small dog in a Wald basket - I think the dog
> would love it.
>
> I've never tried it. I have two questions. (1) If you carry your dog on
> your bike, and have photos, would you mind sharing? (2) I'm not sure if I
> can trust the dog to not jump out - any ideas on safely securing her?
>
> Thanks in advance for any responses.
>
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Re: [RBW] Ever tossed a tire because you couldn't find the culprit?

[Tim Gavin]

Also, check the valve stem itself for leaks (they will leak if you don't
twist the presta nut closed) and the area where the valve stem is attached
to the tube.

On Wed, Jun 20, 2018 at 12:31 PM, Eric Norris  wrote:

> Two thoughts:
>
> 1) I would try to save the tire. Look a little harder for the culprit.
>
> 2) This is a great argument for lining up the label on the tire with the
> valve stem. Makes it so much easier to locate things in the tire based on
> where the hole in the tube is. If the puncture is 90 degrees from the stem,
> look in those two places on the tire—so easy!
>
> —Eric
>
> > On Jun 20, 2018, at 6:47 AM, EasyRider  wrote:
> >
> > Got a slow leak in a Big Ben yesterday (1st in ~4,000 miles on this
> tire) and went about fixing it. Flats are rare for me so I take my time
> finding the cause. I thought I had - a tiny wire on the inside of the tire,
> which I plucked and then finished checking for any others. I used a new
> tube and remounted. But today it was soft again so the wire I pulled was
> likely only a decoy! Rim tape and wheel and valve hole had no signs of
> pokies, so submerged the tube. No apparent leak, so the hole must be very
> small. The culprit must be an embedded wire, I think, but I cannot find it.
> I ride on city streets so it's not a goathead. The Big Ben is pretty thick,
> so it could be wire that reveals itself like a cat's claw.
> >
> > I'll try soaping the tube to find the hole and that should help narrow
> my search of the tire. But I'm tempted to just toss the tire and tube,
> since I've gotten my money's worth.
> >
> > So, toss it or look harder?
> >
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Re: [RBW] Re: Thanks Grant

[Tim Gavin]

FALSE

http://www.politifact.com/punditfact/statements/2018/jun/19/matt-schlapp/no-donald-trumps-separation-immigrant-families-was/

Yes, blatant lies (and the fiesty response) will probably get this thread
shut down.

On Wed, Jun 20, 2018 at 11:23 AM, Mattt  wrote:

> This post will probably get the thread shutdown.
>
> The reason I said politics is because the definition of politics is the
> art or science of Government.  This is a matter of government not Rivendell
> bikes.
>
> This issue was not created by the United States, it was created by people
> who violate the laws of the United States and enter the United States
> ilegally.  It is a fact that over 80% of the minors that enter the country
> illegally, and the reason they are detained, is because they cross the
> border illegally without their parents. Therefore,  the United States does
> not have parents to keep them with.  It has been reported by the Border
> Patrol that children who were sent by their parents to cross the United
> States border illegally possess the Plan B pill because their parents
> expect their child to be raped.   The parents are the inhumane party for
> this issue.
>
> When a parent crosses the border illegally, the parents violates the law
> and is arrested. When someone is arrested they are detained in jail. A
> person cannnot keep their child with them in jail; this includes United
> States citizens.  For example, if a person and his or her spouse are
> arrested, their child is put into government custody.
>
> This is not a Trump, Obama, or Bush issue as this has occurred under all
> three administrations. Many of the pictures of children in cages were under
> the Obama administration.  The first pictures shown recently by the media
> were actually during the Obama administration. This has been previously
> reported by the Washington post in 2014 and from a Senate report in 2014.
>
> This is an issue created by people who do not respect the laws of the
> United States. If you do not want your child to be separated from you then
> do not violate the laws of the United Statea and be put in jail.
>
> Getting into politics at the present time, this issue has been magnified
> because of an upcoming election to help a political party.  The political
> party does not want this resolved because it needs to be a issue for the
> upcoming election.  A quote from the Senator Chuck Schumer, “Wants to Keep
> Focus on Trump.”   Senator Schumer does not want to pass legislation
> because this needs to be an issue for the upcoming election. This is not
> humane.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: HHH tool kit and other brainstorming

[Tim Gavin]

Nothing to add to the gear list.

But for quelling squeaky disc brakes, the first step is to make sure the
disc is VERY true.  I run one pad tight, true the rotor, then tighten the
other pad, true the rotor, and then adjust the pads to be close but not
noisy.

It helps to have a well-lit or light-colored background when you're
attempting to true the rotor, so you can see which side it's rubbing on.

And you can use an adjustable (crescent) wrench as a disc truing tool, no
need to buy a specific tool if this is your only disc rotor.

On Tue, Jun 19, 2018 at 1:51 PM, 'Beaverton Bob' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Hi Tony,
>
> What you are missing are pictures of your HHH, for US to appreciate!
>
> Seriously though, I always bring a tire boot (or two). Never had to use
> them, but cheap insurance for the really big tire cuts. Duct tape will do
> in a pinch, of course.
>
> I like the toddler stuff, are you bringing toddlers along? Trailer,
> perhaps?
>
> Ride Safely,
> Beaverton "Pics Or It Didn't Happen" Bob
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: It Was the Worst of Times, It Was the Best of Times

[Tim Gavin]

Leah-

Awesome!  Gene has been receptive to Grant's wavelength ever since he raced
Bridgestones back-in-those-days.

I had a fun time meeting all the One on One folks, Anna Schwinn, and
All-City/Fulton Brewing race team when I visited Minneapolis.  We ended up
playing ping pong in the museum/apartment above the shop til the wee hours
of the morning!

On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 8:47 PM, Leah Peterson 
wrote:

> Heather asked me to “thank the man who sent us to Gene. I really want him
> to know he helped me. And now we have a bike mechanic too, which we didn’t
> have before.” And that man is you, Tim Gavin!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 12, 2018, at 4:04 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
> >
> > Sweet!
> >
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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA: all rounder near chicago

[Tim Gavin]

21" x 23" corresponds to a "large" in this era of MTB geometry
(post-NORBA).

I have an '88 Schwinn KOM (aka Paramountain) which has a 22" seat tube and
24" top tube; it was the "XL" in their size range.

Since I own that lugged steel dinosaur, I am not in the market for this
lovely Riv-o-saurus.

On Thu, Jun 7, 2018 at 2:51 PM, S. Greco  wrote:

> You are correct, the seat tube is 21and the top tube 23. Dimension
> dyslexia.
>
> Seller was not interested in frame and fork sale or this would already be
> sold.
> Really love the color too. Jeez that thing is sweet.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA: all rounder near chicago

[Tim Gavin]

https://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/bik/d/rivendell-all-rounder-1994/6609481731.html


On Thu, Jun 7, 2018 at 2:43 PM, Steven Sweedler  wrote:

> Anyone have a link, Thanks, Steve
>
> On Thu, Jun 7, 2018 at 3:12 PM S. Greco  wrote:
>
>> It's a Riv Mountain Expedition - early/earliest Riv MTB - not an all
>> rounder though I guess they're sorta related.
>> It's a 23" seat tube with a 21" toptube.
>>
>> I have to travel to Chicago for work this weekend . . . . .
>> Please someone buy this so I don't make bad decisions.
>>
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>
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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA: all rounder near chicago

[Tim Gavin]

I presume you mean 23" top tube and 21" seat tube.  A 2" shorter top tube
would look real funny.

Cool--and rare--bike!

On Thu, Jun 7, 2018 at 2:12 PM, S. Greco  wrote:

> It's a Riv Mountain Expedition - early/earliest Riv MTB - not an all
> rounder though I guess they're sorta related.
> It's a 23" seat tube with a 21" toptube.
>
> I have to travel to Chicago for work this weekend . . . . .
> Please someone buy this so I don't make bad decisions.
>
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Re: [RBW] Low-Normal rear derailleurs... R.I.P.?

[Tim Gavin]

I don't see any Rapid Rise RDs still in production.  Seems like Shimano
abandoned that "feature".

The 77x series of Shimano XT rear derailleurs were very good, and the
RD-M770 version was Rapid Rise/Low-Normal.  Keep an eye out for a NOS or
lightly used one?  It's a 9-speed RD but it indexes 7/8/9/10 speeds,
controlled by the shifters.

On Thu, Jun 7, 2018 at 8:39 AM, d2mini  wrote:

> I just finished up my new Sam build and bought a new RD for it without
> even thinking about it. Now shifting it with my bar-ends feels all wrong
> since it's opposite of what I was used to.
> Previously with my shimano XT, I would pull up on the lever as I gained
> speed on the flats, and if I came to a hill it was an easy push down to
> drop into easier gears.
> Now its the opposite and just feels WRONG! lol
>
> They don't specify, but the deore model on the Riv site is Top-Normal if
> I'm not mistaken.
> Google isn't turning up much but a bunch of threads from like 5 years ago
> about people already having trouble finding Low-Normal or Rapid Rise RD's.
> I did find a NOS one on ebay.
>
> So is it just me? Anyone else with this issue? Do I just need to get over
> it? lol
> Or if anyone can point me towards a model that's still available, I'd
> appreciate it.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

[Tim Gavin]

Justin-

I can't imagine that the struts sit level.  What bag do you mount, and how?

On Mon, Jun 4, 2018 at 1:12 PM, Justin, Oakland 
wrote:

> I am able to flip the struts on my Tubus Tara upside down and they attach
> to my Saluki’s Nitto-spec braze ons nearly perfectly. This may not work on
> a fork with a longer axle to crown.
>
> -J
>
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Re: [RBW] Another chain question

[Tim Gavin]

In my opinion, the Connex quick link is superior to the "SRAM-style" that
KMC uses.  I can open a Connex link easily with my bare hands, but the
KMC/SRAM link requires more force and sometimes a tool.

But they both do their job fine.

Consider keeping the Connex links from your worn out 908 chains and
re-using them?

On Sun, Jun 3, 2018 at 6:13 AM, Michael Hechmer  wrote:

> I have been using the Conex 908 chains on all my bikes for many years and
> like both the way they shift and that their quick link works so much better
> than shimano & Sram links.  Now I see that the RBW site describes the KMC
> quick link as "the best."  Most links are pretty easy to put on but hard to
> get off.  Does anyone here have experience with these chains & links? How
> do they stack up to  others.
>
> Michael
>
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Re: [RBW] It Was the Worst of Times, It Was the Best of Times

[Tim Gavin]

Glad to help!  Just spreading the joy I felt when I visited.  Angry Catfish
is another excellent bike shop, but it's on the south side.

I was in MPLS for an All-City bike launch promo event last fall.  We
(All-City brand folks and team riders, One on One shop guys, Anna Schwinn,
others) ended up playing table tennis in the apartment above the shop til
the wee hours; Gene rents the upstairs cheap to a couple All-City team
riders.

On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 4:40 PM, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <
jonasandle...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Tim Gavin, I’ve really got to thank you for that bike shop recommendation.
> I haven’t even gotten to study the whole site yet but what I saw was
> thrilling. And I’m pretty sure it’s not far from my D’s home! I may swing
> by his summer when I’m in town visiting my family. So much thanks!
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Suspension seatpost with Cambium experiment

[Tim Gavin]

Brett-

The cheap ones that are often found on comfort/hybrid bikes definitely had
a limited lifespan.  As a shop wrench, I've encountered many that are
stuck, bottomed out, or otherwise inoperative.

I even inherited a free bike once (a so-so Spec Crossroads) due to the
suspension post.
It was abandoned in my yard, and I found out *why* when I tried to test
ride it.   The seat swivelled like a bar stool!!  This was because the
races in the cheapo suspension seatpost had given up.  It was a lot of fun
to dare people to ride it in that condition, it was impossible to pedal or
balance.

However, Lum may have found one of better quality (aftermarket it generally
better than OEM) so I can't speak to his.  Seems like a good solution,
while the seatpost lasts.

On Tue, May 22, 2018 at 3:47 PM, Brett Callahan 
wrote:

> I really like the way this looks. Anyone have any idea what the lifespan
> of these seatposts is like?
> Brett
>
>
> On Tuesday, May 22, 2018 at 1:29:59 PM UTC-7, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>>
>> On Tuesday, May 22, 2018 at 4:15:06 PM UTC-4, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>> > I use sprung saddles exclusively. My back doesn't like road shock,
>> despite fat/low[pressure tyres. With Flyers I can ride in total comfort up
>> to 200k so far. They are great!
>> >
>> >
>> > I have always wanted to try a Cambium. But they don't come sprung. So I
>> got a Kalloy suspension post. Looks like a Crystal Fella but has a piston
>> shaft. Very clean look and all silver. Cheap price but looks really nice.
>> It has an adjustable elastomer in the shaft.
>> > Seems just as cushy/bouncy/responsive and shock dispersing as my
>> Flyer/regular Kalloy posts setups but is a half pound lighter with this
>> shock post/Cambium setup. So that is a bonus!
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > This will enable me to use any saddle I want, though I love the Flyers.
>> Also will allow me to use saddle bags without looking weird mounted behind
>> springs and the springs bending bag/impinging into storage space of a bag
>> like my Flyer did with my old Carradice. This way I can get away from
>> leather for easier maintenance and the saddle not changing shape whenever I
>> rain ride.
>> >
>> >
>> > I notice that I need the nose tipped down on the Cambium as it seems to
>> feel "fuller" in the crotch area of saddle than a Flyer.
>> > Nose down helped. Will tweak position and try more. So far pretty good.
>> And the all-weather carved version I have is pretty slippery like leather
>> so clothes don't hang up on the saddle.
>> >
>> >
>> > I guess if the Cambium doesn't work, I can use a B17 or other Brooks on
>> the Kalloy suspension post for better saddlebagging and cleaner look.
>> >
>> >
>> > Just a fun experiment. It is a really clean look. Nice. So far the post
>> provides comfort like the springs of a Flyer. I will see how it goes.
>> Hopefully it works out great.
>> >
>> >
>> >  I will post pic later.
>>
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Re: [RBW] It Was the Worst of Times, It Was the Best of Times

[Tim Gavin]

Congratulations!

If you want an Riv-appreciative shop in Minneapolis to receive, assemble,
and tune the Cheviot, give One on One cycle studio
 a try.  It's at 110 Washington Avenue
downtown, near the sports arenas and Fulton brewery.
One on One is run by Gene Oberpriller, who was with Bridgestone in Grant's
time.  They have a couple classic Bridgestones (XO-1 and others) on
display, as well as a hip coffee shop and some very expensive new bikes of
all kinds.  Great people, and great bike culture.

On Fri, May 18, 2018 at 12:26 AM, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <
jonasandle...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Today started out with an early morning call from my sister, who said her
> husband's old Specialized hybrid bike had been stolen from their yard. The
> prior evening, her husband (who I'll call D), in his haste to greet his
> wife and Rhodesian Ridgeback dog, ditched his trusty old green steed in the
> yard and forgot about it. The next morning my sister left for work and
> noticed her husband's helmet and u-lock had been cast into the neighbor's
> yard. With a sinking feeling, she looked around for the bike, which was by
> now, long gone. You know where this story is going...
>
> D was in need of a new bike. They just relocated to Minneapolis, which has
> fabulous bike trails, and it is a shame to miss a day of riding to work. It
> was not designated Best Biking City for nothing! He started looking at
> Raleigh and Handsome and Surly, but when I got word I did my best sales
> pitch(read: nagging) for Rivendell. Initially, he didn't want to pour that
> much money into a bike that may be stolen (he works downtown). He was
> pretty set on that sloping top-tube Raleigh, and I sighed in defeat and
> waited for the photos. Suddenly my sister called and said D was having a
> change of heart!  He wanted a step-through bike, because it's awfully nice
> not to swing your leg over a top tube and kick the giant leather bag on
> your rear rack. Also, it's nice when you don't rip your expensive pants
> trying to dismount. Yes, a step-through bike is just the ticket - and
> nobody makes them in his size. Oh wait - Rivendell does!
>
> He did some research and discovered there's a special locked area for
> employees to stow their bikes. It requires a key card and then he can use
> his own locks, too. As long as he remembers to put his bike away before he
> fawns all over his wife and dog, he has a good chance of keeping it away
> from thieves. He is good for the money and now out of excuses. He deserves
> a shiny new Rivendell awaiting him in his garage. Minneapolis deserves a
> glorious new Rivendell traversing its paths. I deserve to have matching
> Rivendells with my favorite brother-in-law. I think we can all agree on
> what must be done here.
>
> D is an attorney at a big firm and has no spare time to call Rivendell and
> order his bike, but guess who has all the time in the world for shopping
> with other people's money? Yes, me, devoted sister that I am. My sister and
> I are going to group call Rivendell (I wonder if that's ever been done) and
> snatch that 59 cm green Clem L the website says they have in stock, so
> please, nobody buy it before we get to it tomorrow! D gave us free reign on
> how to set it up, asking only for a rear rack and basket that holds a large
> load. He's kind of snazzy, so I'm going to use my Hail Mary credits and
> deck out his Clem in some fancy extras as a surprise.
>
> Won't he be delighted by the art on the box? The skill with which they
> pack the bike? He's had only Target bikes and the stolen Specialized, which
> was slowly giving out under his large frame and ridiculous loads of stuff.
> Can you imagine how luxurious that Rivendell ride will feel to him? He will
> be ruined for any other bike.
>
> I'll send photos of the happy new customer when we get him up and running.
> Now I'd better head for bed, though who can sleep with this kind of
> excitement!
>
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Re: [RBW] Saddle Sack Med and Leg Strike

[Tim Gavin]

I've seen folks use various tube-shaped items as the standoff: pvc pipe,
garden hose, any random strap, where Acorn uses a leather "cuff".

Since the bag-to-seatpost strap is too short with the standoff, I use an
old toe strap (from strap and clip pedals) to replace it.

On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 6:34 PM, Vincent Tamer  wrote:

> Toshi, this seems to be the best (cheapest) solution and it looks like it
> works great! I'll be trying this out.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Vincent
>
> On Monday, May 14, 2018 at 2:50:06 PM UTC-7, ttoshi wrote:
>>
>> If you want to see some pics, just search Acorn bag with standoff.  The
>> only caveat is that you might need to extend the strap that you use to
>> attach the bag to the seat tube.
>>
>> Toshi
>>
>>
>> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 7:11 AM, Toshi Takeuchi  wrote:
>>
>>> One potentially cheap solution is to mount a tube at the back of the
>>> seat post to push the bag back an inch or two.  One iteration of the Acorn
>>> bags used to have a leather tube to do just what I suggested above.
>>>
>>> Toshi
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 7:08 AM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>>>
 Longer straps at the saddle plus mounting the front strap to the rack
 instead of seatpost should help. Another solution if you keep the bag on
 the bike all the time is to mount the bottom to the rack with zipties,
 skipping the the saddle mounting altogether.

 The final (expensive) solution is the Nitto saddle-rail quick-release
 which will hang the bag further back from the saddle. The benefit here is
 it's very easy to pop it off the bike to run into the store.

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>>>
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Clem-L, Bosco handlebars: where to put the bell?

[Tim Gavin]

On upright bars, I put the bell upside down under the shifter, with the
thumb lever within easy reach.

On Fri, May 11, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Ron Mc  wrote:

> when you get to really wide bars, hands-on bell operation is best because
> wide bars don't take well to single-hand steering
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction Shifting Dyna-sys

[Tim Gavin]

FYI, the 10-speed (black) Shimano pods allow for more lever travel.

On Tue, May 8, 2018 at 9:11 AM, Jon BALER  wrote:

> I have a shimano 9 speed bar end shifter (in friction mode) with 10 speed
> dynasis rear der.  I had to dremel the shifter mount to allow for more
> lever travel/rotation to get enough cable pull.
>
> On another bike, I have a IRD Silver SOS power ratchet with 10 speed
> dynasis rear der.   With the standard (e.g. flat bar) mounts, the shifters
> had enough cable travel to shift the entire cassette.  When I converted
> them to bar end shifters using Riv mounts, I no longer have enough travel
> to reach 1 cog on the cassette.  I either have to dremel the mounts, or
> continue to live with not reaching one cog.
>
> Thanks for the info on the 8 speed shifter working.  Sounds like that may
> also be a good solution for me.
>
> On Monday, May 7, 2018 at 2:59:55 PM UTC-4, Frederic Laforest wrote:
>>
>> indeed  i just succesfully mix an old shimano 105 8s sis/friction ( in
>> friction mode ) with a  10 speed  shimano cassette  but with a mega 9 xt
>> rd-771 sgs  , now  my plan is to test the zee derailleur rd m640 (from my
>> other bike) with these shifter in friction mode
>>
>> Le jeudi 2 juillet 2015 12:58:55 UTC-4, Clayton.sf a écrit :
>>>
>>> Hi All,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thought some of you would be interested that despite the fact that
>>> internet says you can’t mix shimano Dyna-sys rear derailers with anything
>>> but Dyna-sys shifters I am successfully running them with shimano ultegra 8
>>> speed bar ends in friction mode. The shifting not only works it works
>>> amazingly well. The longer cable pull allows for finer trimming and a
>>> greater “sweet spot”. Shifting is crisp and direct which I think is the
>>> result of not having that floating pulley. I am running it with and 8 speed
>>> cassette, 8 speed chain, and a triple front. Hope this information is
>>> helpful. And yes, I can shift across the entire cassette.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Clayton Scott
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Atlantis tires rec request

[Tim Gavin]

And I should have added my own experience: 60 mm Super Motos and 54 mm
Thunder Burts on 17 mm internal rims, no problems in ~2000 miles of
gravel.


On Mon, May 7, 2018 at 8:51 AM, Paul Clifton  wrote:

> Tim,
>
> I've run 48mm and 58 mm (2.3") tires on my Atlas rims without any problems.
>
> Paul
>
> On Monday, May 7, 2018 at 12:58:39 AM UTC-4, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>
>>
>> I just looked it up.  I think this is the right ones.
>> http://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/atlas-559
>>
>> If so, inside width is 19.8mm with max optimal tire width of 45mm, quite
>> a bit narrower than the RTP.  Hmmm.  Will the extra width of the RTP be an
>> issue with these rims?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> On Sun, May 6, 2018 at 8:55 PM Tim Butterfield 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I know the rims are Atlas, but don’t know the width or have a caliper to
>>> measure.   With the multiple confirmations, I will be getting the RTP EL
>>> tires instead of the other two I had mentioned.
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>> On Sun, May 6, 2018 at 2:19 PM Rod Holland  wrote:
>>>
 Tim,

 I've been using RTP Extralights on my Surly Trucker DeLuxe (a
 26"-wheeled LHT, for all intents and purposes). I find they measure out at
 53mm (2.08") on Sun Rhyno Lite rims. What is the inner size of the rims
 you'll be wanting to mount your tires on? The Rhyno Lites have an interior
 measure of 22mm. The RTPs fit under Planet Bike Cascadia ATB fenders. You
 really might want to give them at try, if they're what you're really
 looking for. Of the two other tires you mentioned, I'd got with the Naches
 Pass EL over the McClure. The McClure is the last of the "Compassela"
 tires, good as far as they go, but just not as supple as any of the EL
 variants.

 rod


 On Thursday, May 3, 2018 at 12:56:30 AM UTC-4, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>
> I have been spoiled by the Barlow Pass EL on my 700c Homer and want to
> have the same plush ride on my 26" Atlantis.  I doubt the Rat Trap Pass
> would fit at 2.3", but could probably fit the 1.8" Naches Pass and
> definitely the 1.5" McClure Pass.
>
> Currently, I'm leaning towards the Naches Pass EL in black.  It
> doesn't currently have fenders and current usage doesn't require them.  
> I'd
> probably need to drop to the McClure to add fenders.  My current usage of
> the Atlantis is as a grab and go around town bike, which doesn't require
> rainy rides.
>
> What would your recommendations be for this tire?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Tim
>
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>>>
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Re: [RBW] Your favorite Rivendell?

[Tim Gavin]

Rich-

Like Bruce, I converted my 97 Road Standard to 650b.  650x38 (max width I
can fit in the rear) does not fully compensate for 700 x 25.  (622 + 25 +
25)/2 = 336.  (584 + 38 + 38)/2 = 330.  So, a 650x38 wheel will lower the
frame 6 mm compared to a 700x25 wheel.  A 650x44 tire would compensate
perfectly, but the Riv Road frame won't fit wider than a 38.

Since the Riv Road has 80 mm of BB drop to begin with, it does have
problems with the low BB; pedal strike is always a danger.  But the benefit
of an ultra-low BB is very, very good handling (and low standover).

I'm just very conscious of where my pedals are--a very useful skill in
mountain biking (which I do on other bikes).

On Fri, May 4, 2018 at 8:06 PM, R Shannon  wrote:

> Bruce,
>
> Interesting your Riv Road Standard works with 650b wheels. Low bb and no
> pedal strike? Maybe the 38 size tires compensate?
>
> Thank you very much,
> Richard
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On May 3, 2018, at 10:45 PM, Fullylugged 
> wrote:
> >
> > From MOJO's post
> > "The Road Standard has a unique quality that is indescribable. It
> disappears underneath me. It accelerates well, carries light loads well,
> handles superbly, has no toe overlap. I attribute this to Grant's design
> for my body and riding style. It is my only bike with caliper brakes. The
> Road Standard is my favorite Rivendell bike."
> >
> > I had and sold a Saluki, and still have a Rambouillet to go with my 95
> Road (a pre-production sample actually, with level top tube and different
> dropouts. Same lugs and tubes) I agree that the Road has a super ride and
> feel. The Reynolds 753, low BB, long stays and Waterford steering all add
> up to a great ride. Mine is a 650B conversion that I did to fit 38s which
> add to the ride quality. It is my favorite,  The Ram is a lovely bike and
> great ride too. It's not as lively as the Road and handles more neutrally.
> The Saluki was like this also.  I am liking the Ram more these days with
> upside down mustache bars and an upright posture. It was always nice, now
> nicer.
> >
> > But I vote for the Road.  I like GP's early designs, through Glorius &
> Wilbury best.
> >
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Re: [RBW] Re: Atlantis tires rec request

[Tim Gavin]

Tim-

St. Sheldon's dogma is pretty conservative in the regard of "proper tire
width for a given rim width".
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
(Width Considerations chart is the red/green one most of the way down the
page)

However, many folks have ridden many millions of miles on 2" (54 mm) tires
on 17 mm internal rims -- because that was pretty much all there were at
the dawn of MTB/ATB/Trekking bikes.

The risk with a too-wide tire is the same as that of an under-inflated
tire: risk of the tire folding over when turning aggressively.
Keep your PSI above ~25 and you shouldn't have that problem with RTPs on an
Atlas rim.

On Sun, May 6, 2018 at 11:58 PM, Tim Butterfield 
wrote:

>
> I just looked it up.  I think this is the right ones.
> http://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/atlas-559
>
> If so, inside width is 19.8mm with max optimal tire width of 45mm, quite a
> bit narrower than the RTP.  Hmmm.  Will the extra width of the RTP be an
> issue with these rims?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Tim
>
> On Sun, May 6, 2018 at 8:55 PM Tim Butterfield 
> wrote:
>
>> I know the rims are Atlas, but don’t know the width or have a caliper to
>> measure.   With the multiple confirmations, I will be getting the RTP EL
>> tires instead of the other two I had mentioned.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> On Sun, May 6, 2018 at 2:19 PM Rod Holland 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Tim,
>>>
>>> I've been using RTP Extralights on my Surly Trucker DeLuxe (a
>>> 26"-wheeled LHT, for all intents and purposes). I find they measure out at
>>> 53mm (2.08") on Sun Rhyno Lite rims. What is the inner size of the rims
>>> you'll be wanting to mount your tires on? The Rhyno Lites have an interior
>>> measure of 22mm. The RTPs fit under Planet Bike Cascadia ATB fenders. You
>>> really might want to give them at try, if they're what you're really
>>> looking for. Of the two other tires you mentioned, I'd got with the Naches
>>> Pass EL over the McClure. The McClure is the last of the "Compassela"
>>> tires, good as far as they go, but just not as supple as any of the EL
>>> variants.
>>>
>>> rod
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thursday, May 3, 2018 at 12:56:30 AM UTC-4, Tim Butterfield wrote:

 I have been spoiled by the Barlow Pass EL on my 700c Homer and want to
 have the same plush ride on my 26" Atlantis.  I doubt the Rat Trap Pass
 would fit at 2.3", but could probably fit the 1.8" Naches Pass and
 definitely the 1.5" McClure Pass.

 Currently, I'm leaning towards the Naches Pass EL in black.  It doesn't
 currently have fenders and current usage doesn't require them.  I'd
 probably need to drop to the McClure to add fenders.  My current usage of
 the Atlantis is as a grab and go around town bike, which doesn't require
 rainy rides.

 What would your recommendations be for this tire?

 Thanks.

 Tim

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Re: [RBW] Has anyone attached a saddlesack to a front rack?

[Tim Gavin]

Yep, I've seen folks using the saddle loop straps to attach to a handle
bar.  Then you just need something to keep the bag away from the head tube
and tire.  Surly's platform rack looks good.

However, I think a randonneur or porteur style front bag would be more
useful (in the long run), just because it's designed for access while
riding.  The flap of the saddlesack will open away from you.

On Mon, May 7, 2018 at 6:25 AM, Belopsky  wrote:

> I am assuming it'll be fine.
> I have this rack coming for my Surly and seems like the Saddlesack will fit
>
> https://shop.mashsf.com/mash-front-rack.html
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: MTBubbe Update

[Tim Gavin]

Congrats on the bike!  Glad you're giving it a chance to show its "burly"
side.

You can try torque-ing down the saddle clamp bolt to prevent it from
shifting.

But, any two-bolt seatpost will clamp more securely than the Nitto S65
Crystal Fellow (or clone) you're using.
The Nitto S83 or lugged S84 are the Riv-supplied solutions.  I also see
two-bolt posts in silver from Ritchey, Deda, and others.
I like the clamp head on Thomson posts, but they only come in straight (not
enough setback with a Brooks) or angled (proper setback, weird looks).
Soma's Zero post has the same problem (lack of setback).



On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 3:37 PM, Paul Clifton  wrote:
>
>
>> Any suggestions for a seat post that will keep my saddle from tilting
>> back when I bounce around on it?
>>
>> Paul in ATL
>>
> --
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Atlantis tires rec request

[Tim Gavin]

Measure, and find out!

On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 9:04 AM, Drw  wrote:

> I’m pretty sure you could fit rtp in there
>
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Re: [RBW] Shipping handlebars

[Tim Gavin]

Yes, and bikeflights

On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 8:02 AM, tc  wrote:

> I'm going to be putting up for sale some road and upright handlebars
> soon.  To those of you who have shipped single handlebars, have you simply
> wrapped them in bubble wrap and cut down a box to make a new box to fit the
> bar?
>
> Also, what shipping service do you like?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
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Re: [RBW] FS 2017 Orange Sam

[Tim Gavin]

Doug-

The difference in radius between 700c and 650b wheels is 19 mm.  (622 -
584)/2

So, any rim-brake bike can convert from 700c to 650b -- *if you can find
brakes with 19 mm more reach*.


The Sam H is already using "long-reach" Tektro R539 (55-73 mm) calipers, so
you would need "very-long-reach" caliper brakes, which don't really exist.
Weinmann/DiaCompe 750 centerpulls get to 75 mm reach, even the execrable
Dia Compe 810 single pivots only reach to 79 mm.


Also, changing wheel diameter can change geometry; it can lower the frame.
If you fit a 19 mm wider (aka taller) 650 tire than the designed 700c tire,
then you'd break even.  But chain stays and fork legs are rarely wide
enough to allow such a wide tire.  So, you end up with a tire that is
somewhere between 0 and 19 mm wider, and a commensurate compromise in
geometry.

Of course, you could have the frame modified with cantilever posts or disc
brakes.  That would solve the brake issue, but the geometry issue remains.


I'm a 650-conversion skeptic because of experience; my Riv Road Standard
went from 700x25 to 650x38.  But the frame is noticeably lower; I'm very
careful not to scrape pedals in turns.  Just saying that it's a complex
change that should be researched before pursuing.


One of Grant's signatures is designing frames around proportional wheel
sizes.  Some of Rivendell's models come with 26" wheels (in small frames),
650b wheels (in med frames), and 700c wheels (in large frames).  He puts a
lot of thought into the right wheel/tire and right geometry for the
intended use.  If you choose to change that on your bike, don't do it
cavalierly.


On Wed, May 2, 2018 at 2:01 PM, Doug Bloch  wrote:

> Nice bike. Not to hijack your FS thread, but can the Sam take 650bs?
>
> Doug
> Alameda CA USA
>
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Re: [RBW] FS 2017 Orange Sam

[Tim Gavin]

Ooops, I see the asking price.  I was scanning for a dollar sign ($).

On Wed, May 2, 2018 at 11:19 AM, Tim Gavin <tim.ga...@littlevillagemag.com>
wrote:

> Carla-  Prospective buyers will want to know the frame size (seat tube
> height) and asking price.  Best of luck!
>
> On Wed, May 2, 2018 at 11:13 AM, Carla Waugh <lhtbikert...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I have decided to go with 650B only and my orange Sam is leaving the
>> stable. Sam is original other than the Nitto two bolt Seat Post plus VP
>> Thin Gripsters pedals in grey. The Sam plus pedals and Nitto two bolt seat
>> post and Compass Barlow 38 tires plus original tires and two cages 1900
>> plus shipping from Norman Ok. I will meet you if you live within 500 miles.
>> My Sam is in excellent shape. If you would like more photos or info. let me
>> know. Thanks
>>
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Re: [RBW] FS 2017 Orange Sam

[Tim Gavin]

Carla-  Prospective buyers will want to know the frame size (seat tube
height) and asking price.  Best of luck!

On Wed, May 2, 2018 at 11:13 AM, Carla Waugh  wrote:

> I have decided to go with 650B only and my orange Sam is leaving the
> stable. Sam is original other than the Nitto two bolt Seat Post plus VP
> Thin Gripsters pedals in grey. The Sam plus pedals and Nitto two bolt seat
> post and Compass Barlow 38 tires plus original tires and two cages 1900
> plus shipping from Norman Ok. I will meet you if you live within 500 miles.
> My Sam is in excellent shape. If you would like more photos or info. let me
> know. Thanks
>
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Re: [RBW] Cheviot fat tires

[Tim Gavin]

Joe-

Any centerpull brake will have improved clearance over your sidepull.  Paul
Racers are wonderful, but Dia-Compe/Weinmann centerpulls also work fine
(with good brake pads, like Kool Stops) and are much cheaper.

Have fun on your fatter tires!

On Tue, May 1, 2018 at 6:21 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:

> Thanks, Joe, I think it's probably relevant. We seem to have preliminarily
> determined 48mm as the practical limit with Tektro sidepulls (maybe 50 with
> a Racer up front), now I just have to plop down some cash and confirm it
> for all future Cheviot searches. Wish me luck!
>
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Re: [RBW] How heavy a front load on lowriders on a Rivendell road bike?

[Tim Gavin]

I agree with Bob K that every load on a bike will affect handling somehow.
Which compromise we settle for boils down to personal choice.

On my Riv Road, a modest (~15-20 lbs) rear load gives the bike a "tail
wagging the dog" problem.  That same load in a front rando bag gives
ponderous steering.  That same load on front low-riders makes the steering
over-stable.

That same load on rear low-riders may be have the least effect on handling
(compared to the others), but I don't have a rear low-rider rack.  I could
have bought one, but instead I bought a low-trail fork to improve the front
load setup I already have.

I wonder if the recent long-wheelbase Rivs have less "tail waggy" handling
with a rear load?  They definitely have more pannier clearance (another
annoyance on my Riv Road).

Based on my preferences, I'd load my Riv 60% front / 40% rear for a long
tour.  But for day-to-day commuting and recreational riding, the front
rando bag is very convenient and handles well (with a small load).

(non-Riv-specific segue)
I went on a s24o last year and decided to test my "bikepacking" bags on my
plastic (CF) Foundry Auger.  That bike does have fender eyelets, but
they're not intended for racks.  So, I used a Carradice Nelson rear bag (on
my Brooks saddle), a Revelate Tangle half-frame bag (which stays on the
bike), and a front Revelate Sweetroll harness.  I had about 10~15 lbs in
the front harness (tent, sleeping bag, and pad) and about the same weight
in the saddle bag.  I was surprised at how well the bike handled with that
load, especially the front load!  The Revelate harness carries the load
very close to the head tube, so handling was still pretty neutral.

On Mon, Apr 30, 2018 at 9:34 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Please do send a photo.
>
> I expect that even 10 lb in the rear would regain some of the "balance".
>
> I'm curious why you (all) favor front loads on a Rivendell frame, instead
> of rear loads. I have no touring experience (just plenty of grocery hauling
> experience), but my "instinct" is to load the rear.
>
> On Mon, Apr 30, 2018 at 8:13 AM, Bob K.  wrote:
>
>> I’m not sure as to the actual weight that I’ve loaded up front in
>> lowriders on my Sam for tours, but it’s been significant, and almost
>> definitely 20ish+ pounds. The handling is slower, yes, but is there a bike
>> that doesn’t handle more slowly with 20-25 pounds in front panniers? It
>> would certainly be a bit of a liability in an emergency situation when I
>> needed the bike to handle as nimbly as possible, but that’s par for the
>> course in my experience.
>>
>> For the record, I always balance out the load with 8-10 or so pounds in a
>> Porcelain Rocket Mr. Fusion seat pack. And I, like Jeff, find that I get
>> used to the altered handling rather quickly. I’ll send pictures of the
>> setup a bit later if I get to it.
>>
>> Bob K. in Baltimore
>>
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Re: [RBW] How heavy a front load on lowriders on a Rivendell road bike?

[Tim Gavin]

I've carried ~25-30 lbs on a front Nitto Campee lowrider rack on my '97 Riv
Road Standard.  At that weight, the front is resistant to turn; it's
"over-stable".  However, I liked that feeling for long road tour days.  It
meant I could ride no-hands, which my bike was normally a little too
twitchy to do with comfort.  I had to lean more and turn the handlebars
less when I did want to turn.
Less than ~10 lbs on the lowriders wasn't very noticeable.

My normal load is <10 lbs in a randonneur bag (on a rack and decaleur).
The rando bag makes the front wheel flop when parked, but doesn't affect
handling too badly.  The secret is to mount the bag as low and close to the
head tube as possible.  ~20 lbs in that bag (or in a basket on the
mini-rack) meant ponderous, head-strong handling.

I've recently replaced the original fork with the Romanceur fork that Crust
bikes was selling a couple months ago.  It's low trail, w/ a disc brake,
dynamo wire routing, rack mounts, and much wider tire clearance.  I only
have a few rides on it, but it seems more stable with the rando bag than
the original fork.  Pics to come.



On Sat, Apr 28, 2018 at 4:41 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> I often install the front (Ortlieb Sports Packers) on the '03 Road for a
> grocery run to Corrales, and end up buying enough to fill most of the rear
> Roller Packers. I manage to stuff it all in, somehow, but I've carried as
> much as 35 lb between the 2 fronts, and the bike doesn't like it -- it
> doesn't want to turn. It's happier with sub-20 lb between the 2 fronts.
>
> Even on the rear, this bike doesn't handle 30+ lb loads with the grace
> that the 2 best rear-load-carrying bikes I've owned did (they were very
> different; light, flexy '73 Motobecane Grand Record, and Fuji Royale "12
> Speed", a much beefier frame and a bike that really was rather skittish, at
> least with 28s (I seem to recall that it stabilized a bit with 42s), but
> that, with at least 15 lb in rear panniers, felt wonderfully planted. (I
> recall carrying ~10 lb in one of those old Carradice boxy bags on the Nitto
> bar-mount "prongs" that held the weight high and forward; rode it in gusty
> sidewinds -- sold the Boxy Bag and "prongs."
>
> Long windup, but we get there eventually: how much can you comfortably
> carry in lowriders on one of the more "roady" Rivendells? Roads, LongLows,
> Rams, Sams, Bleriots, Redwoods or whatever they were?
>
> What about in baskets -- high, forward! -- on other models?
>
> In any event, even a ride on the Rivendell with too much weight in front
> is a heckofalot more pleasant than driving the car!
>
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Re: [RBW] Which tire (and can I get by without sealant?) for AZ road/dirt

[Tim Gavin]

Tim-

You didn't specify which size wheels your Homer wears.  The smaller frames
are 650b.

For a tire that is a little burlier than Compass but still pretty
fast-rolling, I recommend the Panaracer Gravel King.  It's available in 650
and 700, in various width.  It comes with a file tread, or with a
semi-knobby (SK) tread.  And, it's a lot cheaper (~$40) than Compass tires.

https://www.panaracer.com/lineup/gravel.html

On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 6:57 AM, Kainalu V.  wrote:

> Sealant rules everwhere. You're putting sealant in a deflated tube, yes?
> And removing the valve core when you do? I've been having good luck with
> the clogging problem by giving the valves a shot of boeshield before I
> replace them. I ride in NYC everyday which, while not being filled with
> goatheads, is pretty hard on tires. I run Schwalbe Big Ones tubeless on
> bike A with occasional refills of sealant. Bike B's got Thunder Burts with
> sealant in tubes and they've been absolutely trouble free for months.
> Before sealant I was plagued with flats, now it's a memory.
> Enjoy goathead country!
> -Kai
> BK NY
>
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Re: [RBW] Has anyone used trekking / butterfly bars on a Rivendell?

[Tim Gavin]

Dave-

Trekking bars have a 22.2 mm grip diameter, and they use MTB controls (road
bars have a 23.8 mm grip diameter).  That 22.2 diameter means the ends are
usually too small to insert bar-end shifters.

However, Nitto makes Albatross bars for Rivendell that are 22.2 AND fit
bar-end shifters.
So, though I doubt that any butterfly/trekking bar can fit bar-end
shifters, the Nitto 825 would be the most likely suspect to do so.

Also, I think bar-end shifters on a trekking bar would be weird and
un-ergonomic.  Seems like a perfect application for thumb shifters.

On Tue, Apr 24, 2018 at 9:09 PM, Dave Redmon  wrote:

> Rene, I saw your post from 6 or 7 years ago. At 74, I too am thinking that
> the Nitto butterfly/trekking bar might solve my arm ache problems. Did you
> decide to keep them? Can you insert bar end shifters?
>
> Dave in Kansas
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Multimodal analgesia

[Tim Gavin]

jargon

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ac7G7xOG2Ag

On Wed, Apr 18, 2018 at 11:43 AM, Abcyclehank  wrote:

> I have no idea exactly what Multimodal analgesia is; but feel smarter for
> having it on this list.  I do believe everyone need balance and believe
> this list probably nicely balanced your day job.
> Happily Retired teacher with a son who impresses me discussing his
> Physical Therapy profession similarly.
>
> Ryan Hankinson
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Bill's 57cm Legolas build thread

[Tim Gavin]

Congrats on the new bike, Bill!  I love the color.  There are too few
purple bikes in the world, let alone this gorgeous shade.

The 42x27 will toughen you up, for sure.  And I understand the "climb it,
or shoulder it" ethos for cyclocross races.

And it would be easy to fit a wider-range 10 speed cassette with just a
rear derailleur swap (9-speed MTB RD), should you decide to do so.

On Tue, Apr 17, 2018 at 12:36 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> The weather looked lousy yesterday so I did not ride “Sal”. Sure enough,
> on my lunch break I rode to the taco  lace and got POUNDED by a
> hailstorm. Ouch!
>
> Anyway today was clear but cold, and I did the ~25 mile road ride from my
> house to Riv HQ. Roman wanted to take some canonical Riv shots for a
> potential blog post. I obtained approval from Roman, Will, Corey and Dave.
> Mark had the morning off so I missed him.
>
> My ride report had few surprises. It fits like I planned it to fit
> (perfectly) and it rides like I planned it to ride (splendidly). It feels
> like a very good very fast racing bike. We’ll see if I can handle the
> drivetrain. A 42x27 is low enough for many hills but not every hill, unless
> I toughen up.
>
> Now that Riv has their photos, it’s time to go get it dirty
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito Ca
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Rounded Tektro R559 allen nut - how long is it (for ordering a replacement)?

[Tim Gavin]

Yes, that recessed brake nut is a standard part.  Your LBS should have
spares on hand for cheap.  A rear brake uses the shorter size, the front
brake uses the longer size.

On Fri, Apr 13, 2018 at 7:16 AM, blakcloud  wrote:

> I don't know the length but what I have done was gone to LBS and bought a
> few sizes just to keep on hand. You never know if you need longer for
> adding fenders or center point rear rack etc. They were really inexpensive,
> somewhere around a dollar or so.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Bill's 57cm Legolas build thread

[Tim Gavin]

And the Legolas does share quite a bit with the Roadeo (most of the tubing
and lugs are the same).

On Thu, Apr 12, 2018 at 10:28 AM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> The Legolas name is owned by the family of the author of Lord of the
> Rings.  They don't allow Rivendell to promote bikes with names taken from
> LotR.  That's part of the reason you don't see Legolas, Bombadil or
> Quickbeam anywhere prominent in Riv communication.
>
> This bike was not replaced in the Riv lineup.  The Legolas is a pure
> cyclocross racing bike.  There is no cyclocross racing bike in the normal
> Rivendell lineup.  I think of this bike as being Mark A's bike.  Mark A is
> a cyclocross racer, and this is his bike, in my mind.  Mark was really
> happy that I got one, and that I'm going to use it for stripped down short
> fast dirt rides, like a cyclocross race.  It could be a gravel racer as
> well, but it's a race bike.  It is not an all rounder.  It is not a country
> bike.  It is not a touring bike.  It's a racing bike.
>
> Bill
>
> On Thursday, April 12, 2018 at 8:10:53 AM UTC-7, tc wrote:
>>
>> Gosh that’s nice. I’m unfamiliar with the history of why Legolas was
>> discontinued, and what Grant replaced it with. It “seems” like a
>> level-tubed lighter weight Sam ... or perhaps a beefier/wider forked
>> Roadini.
>>
>> In any case, I’m enlightened and jealous!
>>
>> Tom
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Clem-L pump, frame or other

[Tim Gavin]

I carry a Zefal on my Riv (it has a peg).

On my other bikes, I use the Lezyne Micro Floor Drive pumps.  I like their
floor-type design; they're easier to pump than most stick-type pumps
(including Zefal).
They come in three varieties: HP (high pressure, max 160 psi) for
low-volume road tires, HV (high volume, max 90 psi) for high-volume
cross/touring/MTB tires, and XL (max 35 psi) for extreme-volume MTB and Fat
tires.  And each of the three models can be found in a xxG variant with an
inline gauge in the hose.  I've heard mixed reviews on the gauge's
accuracy, unfortunately.

You can use an HP to pump a 2" tire, but it will take all day.  And you
can't get a tire to high pressure with the XL.

Each pump comes with a common Lezyne clip (fits their smaller stick pumps
too) to put it under a bottle cage.  I have two of these pumps that are
shared between four bikes (I bought additional clips).

My original HV has filled dozens of tubes over the last ~5 years, and it
still works great.  I picked up an XL for my fat bike; when you have a flat
5" tire in the middle of winter, you want to fill that tube ASAP (and CO2
may not work in the extreme cold).

On Tue, Mar 27, 2018 at 10:41 AM, Rod Holland 
wrote:

> I suspect you're right about that.
>
> rod
>
>
> On Tuesday, March 27, 2018 at 11:22:18 AM UTC-4, Shoji Takahashi wrote:
>>
>> Hi Rod,
>> There's a lot of space behind the seat tube, given the long chain stays.
>> Maybe the HPX can fit there?
>>
>> Good luck,
>> shoji
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 27, 2018 at 11:10:20 AM UTC-4, Rod Holland wrote:
>>>
>>> I've got a 45 cm Clem-L in the pipeline, a gift for my consort. I'm
>>> wondering what to do about a pump for that bike. My reflexive choice of a
>>> Zefal HPX doesn't look like it will fit, at least not as straight-forwardly
>>> as it does on the pegged, diamond-framed bikes I'm most familiar with. So,
>>> what pumps have people found worked well for this frame? First prize goes
>>> to something that moves a reasonable quantity of air, not a
>>> teeny-tiny-100-strokes-and-done device; if there's a sensible way to
>>> mount a frame pump, so much the better. I've used a Topeak Road Morph once
>>> upon a time, with good results, before I developed the Zefal habit.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> rod
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>>
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Re: [RBW] 'Stasche Brake Lever Opinions

[Tim Gavin]

Non-aero road brake levers on moustache/albastache bars have perfect cable
routing.  Aero road brake levers add a weird twist in the cable housing.



On Mon, Mar 26, 2018 at 9:47 AM, Minh  wrote:

> I've joined the brotherhood of the traveling handlebars and i'm giving
> 'Stache bars another chance with a set being passed on to me--i tried the
> old mustache bars and while i liked them, i liked the albatross bars better
> (not a fair fight i think), since the new albastache bars are more like
> albatross bars maybe this will be the perfect combo.
>
> One thing i had not considered, i used non-aero levers last time.  Are
> there pros/cons of aero levers vs non-aero with 'stache style bars?  I've
> got both options in the parts bin so can go either way...
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: New Roadini; Bag... Sackville or Swift Industries

[Tim Gavin]

For small loads, I really like a randonneur-style front bag.  Very easy to
access on and off the bike.

I have a Riv Road Standard, Leo Roadini's fancy great-grandpa.  No rack
mounts on the fork (like yours), so I used a Nitto M1 Mark's Rack
, plus the
extra-long
stays

down to the fender mounts on the back of the fork tips.  Nitto M18 would
work the same, and either rack can be mounted to p-clamps on the fork
legs.  I just prefer the appearance and security of the long stays.

The bag is from listmember David Banzer, Treetop Bags
.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4793/39814171615_f59483a323_k.jpg




On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 7:51 AM, Nancy Seibel  wrote:

> That was one of the best "how to" videos I've ever seen!!
>
>
> On Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 12:10:19 AM UTC-4, Scott Blouke wrote:
>>
>> I like the roadrunner Jammer bag.  Its good as a saddle bag or a
>> handlebar bag, its rackless and has a solid mounting.
>> https://roadrunnerbags.us/products/the-jammer-bag  They have a larger
>> one and a lot of colors https://roadrunnerbags.
>> us/blogs/road-runner-bags/colors-of-the-rainbow
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 21, 2018 at 3:40:48 PM UTC-7, lambbo wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi folks, I've been struggling with an *very* important question: how
>>> to carry things on my new (much loved) Roadini.  The bike is set up with
>>> clip-in pedals and I'd like a way to bring some walking shoes and a snack
>>> plus a few small tools etc. with me on long rides.
>>>
>>> Anyone have experience with either:
>>>
>>> Sackville SmallSack, in the back (worried it will hit my thighs and,
>>> despite what I hear, I think that would be annoying)
>>> or
>>> Swift Industries 'handlebar bag' of some sort, which is smaller seeming
>>> but also has the convenience of a clear top for the phone or map.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>> photo below is old, before ultegra pedals and front der.,
>>> the set up is IRD compact double crank, tiagra front and rear der, 48
>>> Noodles, brooks B17 and bar tape, silver shifters (rear, bar-end, front,
>>> downtube), old shimano brakes from old road bike, Jack Browns, and (too few
>>> spokes?) Mavic Askium wheels that the guy who sold me the frame included
>>> for a very generous price.
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Goldilocks drop bar brake lever?

[Tim Gavin]

Laing-

Yours sounds more like a Fashion (Mode) Gendarmerie!

On Tue, Mar 13, 2018 at 12:12 PM, lconley  wrote:

> On Tuesday, March 13, 2018 at 12:56:01 PM UTC-4, Jeff wrote:
>>
>> Agree wholeheartedly on the TRP RRL levers - I'll mention that their
>> hoods are available separately if you can't find a complete lever with the
>> color combo you desire. I had the gum/drillum and the bike fashion police
>> required that I move to black hoods and I was easily able to source
>> replacement hoods on the intertubes.
>>
>>>
>>> Must be different Bike Fashion Police. According to my Bike Fashion
> Police, gum is the only acceptable color for any brake hood except for red
> or blue on Mafac half hoods only (must have matching Velox bar end plugs).
>
> Laing
> Cocoa FL.
>
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Re: [RBW] Goldilocks drop bar brake lever?

[Tim Gavin]

*Tektro/TRP RRL SR*

They're best brake levers ever, atmo.  Wonderful ergonomics.  Excellent
finish and feel.  They come in three variants: black/black, black/drillium
silver, gum/drillium silver.

However, they definitely have a longer body than the SCR-5s and especially
the Tiagra levers.  So you might feel a bit stretched out on the lever tops.

On Mon, Mar 12, 2018 at 7:58 PM, EasyRider  wrote:

> My Tiagras are a bit too narrow, my Cane Creek SCR-5s are too wide. Is
> there an in between I could try?
>
> Pete
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: 1x10 with BE or Gevenalle?

[Tim Gavin]

Bill, I can take measurements and pics later if you want.

On Tue, Mar 6, 2018 at 12:29 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> I hope this isn't too tangential.  Since you mention cowchippers, I'm in
> the market for a pair and I'm guessing at width.  Are 46cm Cowchippers 46cm
> wide at the flared drops?  Or are they 46cm at the hoods/ramps?  Or
> something else altogether?
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Tuesday, March 6, 2018 at 5:43:50 AM UTC-8, Leaf Slayer wrote:
>>
>> I had the Cowchippers, 46cm, on my Vaya a while back and never really
>> liked the way they felt on that bike. They seemed too wide. Like wider than
>> the 48cm Noodles on my LHT. I did like the way they felt in the drops on
>> descents. I was also entertaining thoughts of that bike being a go fast all
>> road machine. Something about that bike ultimately never felt right and I
>> sold it. I think the Cowchippers will work well on the Ogre. If this works
>> well I could see going to the next lever and setting it up with a Crust
>> Towel Rack, a 66cm wide drop bar.
>>
>> I know Grant has moved away from drops but I still kept expecting Riv to
>> put out a short reach shallow drop bar of their own.
>>
>> --mike
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: 1x10 with BE or Gevenalle?

[Tim Gavin]

Bill-

Salsa measures their bars pretty accurately; a 46 cm Cowchipper is 46 cm
between the center of the bar at the top of each drop.  However, since the
bars flare outward throughout the drop curve, the brake hoods are already
at like 50 cm, and the ends of the bars are at like 54 cm.

On the 42 cm Cowchippers, the brake hoods are around 46 cm wide and the bar
ends are around 50 cm.  That feels better to me on an
all-rounder/gravel/cross bike.  Wider might feel better on a drop-MTB or
monster cross.

On Tue, Mar 6, 2018 at 12:29 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> I hope this isn't too tangential.  Since you mention cowchippers, I'm in
> the market for a pair and I'm guessing at width.  Are 46cm Cowchippers 46cm
> wide at the flared drops?  Or are they 46cm at the hoods/ramps?  Or
> something else altogether?
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Tuesday, March 6, 2018 at 5:43:50 AM UTC-8, Leaf Slayer wrote:
>>
>> I had the Cowchippers, 46cm, on my Vaya a while back and never really
>> liked the way they felt on that bike. They seemed too wide. Like wider than
>> the 48cm Noodles on my LHT. I did like the way they felt in the drops on
>> descents. I was also entertaining thoughts of that bike being a go fast all
>> road machine. Something about that bike ultimately never felt right and I
>> sold it. I think the Cowchippers will work well on the Ogre. If this works
>> well I could see going to the next lever and setting it up with a Crust
>> Towel Rack, a 66cm wide drop bar.
>>
>> I know Grant has moved away from drops but I still kept expecting Riv to
>> put out a short reach shallow drop bar of their own.
>>
>> --mike
>>
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Re: [RBW] 1x10 with BE or Gevenalle?

[Tim Gavin]

I can't speak to Gevenalle shifters (they look great but I haven't tried
them yet).  I have SRAM double tap shifters on my Cowchippers, and bar-end
shifters on other drops.

But, I can testify regarding the Salsa Cowchipper bars:  excellent!  Great
shape, great curve, just the right amount of flare.  I don't care for the
extreme flare and angled drops of the Woodchipper and similar bars.

One note on the Cowchippers:  although they measure accurately (width is
measured from the tops of the curves), they fit large.  I tried a set of 46
cm Cowchippers on my bike (Foundry Auger) and they felt HUUGE.  46 cm may
feel right on an off-road biased build like your Ogre.  But, I'm much
happier with the 42 cm width, and I was able to trade the 46 cm ones to a
friend for the Brooks B17 he didn't like.  Win!



On Mon, Mar 5, 2018 at 11:28 AM, Leaf Slayer  wrote:

> Haven't chimed in here in a long long time. Curious what folks think. I'm
> a longtime fan of BE shifters so quite familiar with them. I'm getting
> ready to convert my Surly Ogre from a Jones Bar to a Cowchipper with a 70mm
> VO Cigne Stem. I'm running a 10spd Shimano SLX derailer. I'm leaning toward
> Gevenalle but curious what folks thoughts and experience are with them. I
> like the Jones bars well enough but really want to try the Cowchippers on
> the Ogre. The stem gets them in the right place with what should be
> appropriate extension. I spend more time on dirt roads on this bike than
> technical singletrack so it should be fine.
>
> This set-up seems takes a leap of faith as the steerer will be cut down to
> an otherwise useless length for me. I'm hopeful this set-up will work for
> me. If not... well, looks like I'll be purchasing a new fork. Don't let
> anyone tell you threaded steerer tubes and quill stems don't have their
> place.
>
> Feel free to contact me if you happen to have some Gevenalle shifters for
> sale (long pull, 10x1, Shimano DynaShift).
>
> Thanks!
>
> --mike
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Flickstand alternatives? How to keep the front stable while not moving?

[Tim Gavin]

Neat!  Looks like it can be ordered from European sources:
https://www.xxcycle.com/shimano-nexus-headset-thread-with-lock-ihpnx10b,,en.php


On Thu, Mar 1, 2018 at 4:10 PM, Tom Wyland  wrote:

> This is what it looks like. It was installed on my Torker Cargo T. I can't
> find it in any searches, but that doesn't mean you still can't get get it
> from one of the bike supply catalogs.
> They apparently had these on some older bikes pre-1970s. It's just a
> spring-loaded pawl that engages like a ratchet and makes turning difficult.
> It can also lock the handlebars slightly askew... helpful on sloped
> surfaces.
>
>  http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-locking-headset/rp-
> prod33075
>
>
> 
>
>
> On Thursday, March 1, 2018 at 4:56:54 PM UTC-5, Drw wrote:
>>
>> Where does one find a headset with the anti flop blocking part?
>>
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Re: [RBW] Frank Jones brake choices

[Tim Gavin]

Depends on whether you intend to run fenders.  Centerpull brakes have
better fender clearance than R559 sidepulls.

On Thu, Mar 1, 2018 at 3:48 PM, nathan  wrote:

> One of the interesting differences between Quickbeam/Simpleone and Frank
> Jones is that brake options are different (canti vs side/center pull). I'm
> curious: if you were to build up a Frank Jones would you go with Tektro
> R559 sidepull, a centerpull (eg. Dia Compe or Paul), or something else? Why?
>
> Thanks,
> Nathan
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Rivendell Road Bike -56cm

[Tim Gavin]

You'd need long-reach brake calipers (Tektro R559, Paul Racer, MAFAC Raid,
or Weinmann/DC centerpull) and 650b wheels to convert this bike to 650b.

My '97 Road Standard has tighter clearances than many (700 x 28 is tight),
and it clears a 650 x 38.  Others, with more generous tire clearance, have
successfully fit 650 x 42 tires.

On Thu, Mar 1, 2018 at 3:23 PM, Minh  wrote:

> Hi Erl,
>
> I know you've posted in the past, but what's the max tire size for 700C?
> what about if you switch it to 650B?  what parts would you need to take it
> to 650B?
>
> On Thursday, March 1, 2018 at 2:29:24 PM UTC-5, WETH wrote:
>>
>> Update: Frame/Fork/Headset/assorted additional parts still available;
>> complete bike is no longer for sale.
>>
>> FS: Rivendell Road Bike -56cm-f/f/hs plus additional parts listed below.
>> $850 shipped or $800 local pick-up. PayPal please.
>>
>> Parts also included with f/f/hs:
>> -Set of Tektro 559 brakes
>> -One Paul racer medium brake for rear wheel
>> -Paul rear brake hanger
>> -BB un55 107mm
>> -Nitto noodles 46cm
>> -Crankset: sugino wide low double;170 crank length
>> -Sykes custom wood fenders for 700x28 tires
>> -700c wheelset: 36hole Mavic A319 with Shimano Tiagra hubs (130 rear
>> spacing)
>> -Tires 700x28 Ruffy Tuffy
>>
>> Frame Details:
>> Headset: Campagnolo record
>> Spectrum Tom Kellogg paint job is gorgeous!
>> Frame is in good condition: two notable issues--a bulge in the headtube
>> under the headbadge with a corresponding paint chip and one scuff in the
>> clear coat on the top tube.
>>
>> Frame measurements:
>> -56cm c-c seat tube,
>> -57.5cm c-c top tube.
>> -standover (with 700x28 tires) is 81cm.
>> -Headtube 14.8 (end-end including extension but not headset stack or
>> spacers)
>> -Wheelbase: 100.5cm
>> -Chainstay c-c: 42.5
>> -Rear spacing:130
>> -Seatpost 27.2
>> -Front derailleur clamp size: 28.6
>>
>> Pictures here, but please note the complete bike is not for sale, only
>> the f/f/hs and additional parts listed above: 
>> *https://flickr.com/photos/86975051@N08/sets/72157646658697853
>> *
>>
>> I am happy to provide other measurements and photos. (For photo reference
>> I have a 75-76 cm saddle height and 86cm PBH)
>>
>> I am not parting components out at this time.
>>
>> Just the Frame/fork/headset/fenders: $750 shipped or $700 local pickup,
>> Washington, DC.  PayPal please.
>>
>> Happy to provide more pics and to answer questions. Please reply off list.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Erl
>>
>>
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Flickstand alternatives? How to keep the front stable while not moving?

[Tim Gavin]

I use a miniature bungee cord to stabilize the front wheel, especially when
the bike is fully loaded.

>From one spoke, over the downtube, back to another spoke.

On Thu, Mar 1, 2018 at 8:15 AM, Kiley DeMond  wrote:

> Oh, is this one near and dear to my heart! I am just a jump on, jump off
> kinda gal, so all the fiddly solutions were not going to work long term for
> me. I bought a Flickstand off eBay before I installed fenders, so that
> lasted about a month (still have it for sale if anyone is interested). As
> of right now my 60cm Cheviot, aka Heidi, is sporting the Velo Orange
> solution which works pretty well. I did go to the hardware store and
> purchase the same spring in silver and I am working on a replacement spring
> cover in an appropriate color as Heidi doesn't look good in black.
>
> P.S. I use an Axa frame lock to further facilitate the 'jump on, jump off'
> way and the bike is heavy enough, no one is slinging it over their shoulder
> and running off, at least where I live.
>
> On Friday, June 9, 2017 at 12:46:24 PM UTC-7, Ash wrote:
>>
>> Happy Friday everyone!
>>
>> Today my Appa made its first 24 mile commute to work, with my laptop bag
>> and bunch of other things in the front on Mark's rack/Wald's basket combo.
>>
>> With all that weight in the front, keeping the bike stable while not
>> moving was a big problem.  This is because the steering mechanism would
>> turn all the way to the right or left, causing the bike to move and fall.
>>
>> Perhaps the solution is to somehow lock the front wheel to the down
>> tube.  Quick search on the inter webs told me that there used to be
>> something called Flickstand.  It doesn't exist anymore.
>>
>> How do you folks deal with this situation?  Velcro the wheel to down tube
>> maybe?  Is there a better option?
>>
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Re: [RBW] FS Velo Orange (frame size medium) 29er , with... Di2 Shifting .. yup you read that right lol

[Tim Gavin]

Best of luck with the sale.

I assume you're trying to sell complete first, out of simplicity.  But my
first impression is that you'd be more successful by parting out the Di2
stuff separately.

On Tue, Feb 27, 2018 at 11:18 PM, I like coffee! 
wrote:

> For sale is a Velo Orange Piolet 29er
>
> Basically its set up with a XTR mtb groupset (11 speed 11-42t)
> and shifting is all Di2 but done by Synco Shift (meaning down shifts to
> smaller ring) at speed 11 , and then shifts up one gear lol
>
> -- because to my knowledge there is a compability issue with Di2 and XTR,
> so ideally it could only really be used as a one by if you want to shift
> with both shifters..
>
> However if done by Syncro shift, I have it set where I just downshifts at
> my highest gear (11) then move the cassette down one also (speed 2)
> , all the while there is no wire in the left shifter, so its really only a
> brake lever (lol)
>
> Anyway, if your interested let me know, I'd love to do local pick up,
> since I wouldn't really want to go through the trouble of taking this build
> apart,
>
> Thanks! I'm located in Ventura/Santa Barbara
>
>
> Photo's here https://flic.kr/s/aHsm7AreAA
>
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Re: [RBW] Roadini: potential for 650B on 700C frame sizes?

[Tim Gavin]

622 - 584 = 38
38 / 2 = 19

You need 19 mm more reach from 700c to 650b.  Even assuming ~50 mm current
reach (you said the stock setup has the pads halfway), it sounds like Paul
Racers wouldn't provide enough reach; you'd need DC/Weinmann-style
centerpulls.

I converted my '97 Riv Road Standard to 650b, because it couldn't even fit
a 700 x 28 tire in the rear.  Chainstay and fork leg width constrains me to
a 650 x 38 tire max.

Personally, I'd stick with 700c wheels on a Roadini.  Aka, buy a different
bike if you want wider tires.  I bought my Riv used, locally, and have been
adapting it since.

On Fri, Feb 23, 2018 at 1:18 PM, Michael Doleman 
wrote:

> I'm considering the purchase of a Roadini frame, and am wondering if
> perhaps it'd be just possible to use 650B wheels on one of the frames
> intended for 700C -- for the purpose of being able to run wider tires,
> if/when desired.
>
> The site says that 57mm reach is necessary, and in the pictures, so far as
> I can tell, it looks like they have Shimano Tiagra 57mm-max-reach brakes,
> with the pads seemingly set about halfway to the bottom. Working that out
> in my head, it would seem that by using something such as the Paul Racer
> centerpull, with a reach of 67mm, it might be just possible to make it
> happen. There are options for brakes with reach up to 73mm, of course, but
> those are not as high-quality and I'd like to avoid having to change-out
> the brakes to run a different wheel. Aside from the brake reach, though, is
> the other question as to whether the width of -- say -- a 40 or 45mm tire
> will fit. Height wouldn't be a problem, but width might be -- chainline,
> derailleur, etc.
>
> Anyone have any input on these factors? I'd appreciate it.
>
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Re: [RBW] What type of bike would make you buy another riv

[Tim Gavin]

RJM- you can still order a Legolas. But I think at custom pricing.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 3, 2018, at 7:38 AM, RJM  wrote:
> 
> I have two. 
> 
> First is a Legolas cyclocross bike. I’ve started racing cross this year for 
> fun and found out it is an awesome good time. A Legolas I would buy today, 
> right now.
> 
> Second is a mountain mixte. I’d even take a cheviot with v brakes but I’m not 
> sure if the tubes would be stout enough for what I want to load up and ride. 
> Honestly, I’m seriously thinking about picking up a cheviot or an Appaloosa 
> soon though. 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Appaloosa Front-End Update

[Tim Gavin]

Liam-

Yes, the Tubus Tara Big Apple has a larger hoop over the tire, to fit the
aforementioned tire.  Your "standard"  Tara doesn't give enough clearance.

Also the horizontal struts are supposed to be horizontal so you can attach
your pannier clips to them.  Panniers may not like the angled struts, and
it could tilt the panniers back enough to cause other problems (toe
overlap, handling, etc).

I agree that the best solutions would be:
1) Tubus Tara Big Apple, with Tubus Mid-Fork eyelets to keep the struts
horizontal
or
2) a different front pannier rack (Hub Area Rack, or many other options)

On Thu, Feb 1, 2018 at 7:55 AM, Liam Allen 
wrote:

> Hi there,
>
> Just found this and wanted to put my problem to you.
> I've bought a TUBUS TARA Lowrider rack to put up the front of my
> Appaloosa. I saw yours here so went ahead and bought one.
> However, I'm just reading your message below properly and think I've
> realised my error. Yours is a Tara Big Apple, a different model.
> This is the horror show I'm dealing with at the moment (see pic.) It ain't
> gonna happen is it?!
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Liam
>
> On Sunday, June 4, 2017 at 9:16:13 PM UTC+2, J Imler wrote:
>>
>> Installed a Tubus Tara Big Apple on my Appaloosa. See pics for various
>> intricacies. Mark's Rack sitting with up-angle allows for top of brake arm
>> clearance under fork crown Nitto strut. Used Nitto clamps for mid-fork
>> connection. I bought the Tubus mid-fork connection doodad but like the
>> Nitto clamps much better. Those are Ortlieb Front Roller panniers. I loaded
>> Joe with a multitude of my kid's library books for an initiation and
>> thought it handled very well. See pics here: https://drive.google.com
>> /file/d/0BwHqG1q8uHdcaUt6aTV6X296a0U/view?usp=sharing
>>
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Re: [RBW] Which tire was ridden on your first excursion into 650b?

[Tim Gavin]

Eric, my experience was very similar to yours.  Col de Vies on Weinmann
ZAC19 rims, which have even deeper wells than the Synergy and are
commensurately harder to get a tire to bead up properly.

Better tires and better rims definitely improved the experience!  Now I
ride mostly Pari-Motos on Pacenti PL23 rims.

On Tue, Jan 30, 2018 at 6:11 AM, Eric Daume  wrote:

> My first was Panaracer Col de Vies on Synergy rims.
>
> It wasn't an especially good
> 
> first experience. The tires were mediocre, and the rims were awful. I
> couldn't get the tires mounted correctly with the deep wells of the rims.
>
> Eric
>
> On Mon, Jan 29, 2018 at 10:24 PM, lum gim fong 
> wrote:
>
>> Mine was Fatty Rumpkins on my 55 Bleriot, after years of riding a
>> carbonalu 700 x 25c bike.
>>
>> It was so much fun!!! Super comfy!!
>>
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Re: [RBW] Tektro R559 vs. Dia-Compe 750 centerpulls.

[Tim Gavin]

Paul centerpulls have no mush, outside of the cables/housing.   Paul CP
arms are much stiffer than Dia-Compe/Weinmanns.  In my opinion, the
flexiness of the R559 brake arms was somewhere between the Paul and DC
centerpulls.

However, any rim brake can feel mushy if you have excessive toe-in, because
the front ends of the pads hit first.


Paul CPs have the same problems of any rim brake when wet, especially
compounded with oil and filth from the road.

Personally, I have an un-Rivendellian preference for discs.  I guess I'm
more dwarf (disc; they loved machines) than elf (Rivendell).  My stable is
two rim brake, three disc.  All fun.

On Fri, Jan 26, 2018 at 12:49 PM, lum gim fong 
wrote:

> So far Pauls and R559 run into trouble sporadically in the rain. Sonetimes
> they work like normal when wet, sometimes barely any stoppage at all.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Have a Sub 20lb Roadeo?

[Tim Gavin]

My 59cm Roadeo was about 21.5# with classic parts:
28h Mavic Open Pro laced to Shimano 600 tricolor hubs
Nitto stem and bars
8-speed Campagnolo (Sachs version, actually) Ergopower shifters and
derailleurs
VO 46/30 crank and VO cartridge BB
Brooks Pro saddle

so <20# shouldn't be hard with mid-range modern components.


On Fri, Jan 26, 2018 at 12:12 PM, RJM  wrote:

> I had a 53cm Roadeo in Orange that I built up using fairly light weight
> parts and it was under 20 lbs...like 19.5 lbs if I remember correctly. It
> may have been a bit less but I wound up selling it when I bought a Trek
> Emonda SL6, which came in at 16 lbs with the same Rolf wheelset. Off the
> top of my head, here was the build:
>
> 53cm Roadeo with threaded headset and fork
> Nitto s83 seatpost
> Rolf Vigor RS wheels
> 25mm Continental gp4000s tires (originally had 32mm Stampede Pass tires on
> it but after I ran through those I switched to the GPs)
> Full Ultegra 6800 groupset
> bontrager Paradigm saddle
> Nitto lugged stem
> Mark's bars by Nitto
> Look classic clipless pedals
>
> As a racey road bike it did very well and I really liked it; very
> comfortable and fast bike. I was quite a bit faster on the Roadeo compared
> to the Sam I also had, which was the point for me. If I was going to do it
> again the only change I would do would be to get the threadless fork/stem
> option. I originally bought the Roadeo to be my only road bike and to ride
> with the club on fast, spirited paceline type rides and other centuries.
> The bike worked great for that. I bought the carbon bike on a whim and
> found I also enjoyed the ride and felt it scooted up hills faster. It was
> more responsive but also comfortable, plus the price was right. Since then,
> I've stopped road riding and have re-discovered mountain biking so now I'm
> fresh out of road bikes and have sold them all. lol.
>
>
>
> Ryan (who is currently contemplating a Legolas custom to race cyclocross
> with)
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, January 25, 2018 at 5:21:48 PM UTC-6, lum gim fong wrote:
>
>> Reading Grant interview where he was saying they were shooting for sub-20
>> wihen they developed  the Roadeo and was wondering if anyone here has
>> realized this on their Roadeo.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Tektro R559 vs. Dia-Compe 750 centerpulls.

[Tim Gavin]

The biggest drawback of the R559 is that it intrudes into the fender
clearance.

If you snug the front fender up to the bottom of the brake (to maximize
tire clearance), the sidepull arm hits (and bends) the fender when open.

Centerpull brakes don't have this problem.  I went to Paul Racers (750s
were not in re-production yet) on my Riv because otherwise I'd have to go
1) without fenders or 2) fit a smaller tire.

On Thu, Jan 25, 2018 at 3:48 PM, jeffrey kane  wrote:

> I've used both on the same bike before. Both worked well enough not to be
> significantly distinguishable in terms of performance. Both are quite easy
> to set up. Personally, I don't like the looks of large caliper brakes so
> settled on CP's as my go to on bikes that offer the clearance.
>
>
> On Thursday, January 25, 2018 at 4:16:48 PM UTC-5, lum gim fong wrote:
>>
>> Any opinions from those who have used both on the same bike?
>> Which do you like better?
>>
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Re: [RBW] A. Homer Hilsen / San Marcos

[Tim Gavin]

Justin-

SKS Chromoplastic fenders are among the least constricting, because none of
their hardware is on the inside of the fender.  But yes, metal fenders are
thinner so they could be the least constricting--if you use "ideal"
hardware.

Many metal fenders have exposed nuts on the inside at the stays and/or fork
daruma, which eats up tire room.  This is why many recommend using Berthoud
stays on all metal fenders; the Berthoud hardware doesn't intrude as much.
That gives you the most *minimal* "traditional/full coverage" fender
solution.  But SKS Chromoplastics are dang close.

I have 3 bikes with SKS and one with Velo Orange fenders.  They're all
pretty good.  I have a set of Honjos waiting to replace the VO fenders, but
the VOs are still straight so I'm in no rush.

On Tue, Jan 23, 2018 at 11:47 AM, Justin, Oakland 
wrote:

> in my experience the array of plastic fenders seem to be more constricting
> in clearance and tire size. It seems as if, as evidenced here in this
> thread, that aluminum fenders allow you to mount them closer to the frame
> with a profile that allows for greater tire size with adequate clearance.
> Whether that is because of material, thickness or hardware I don’t know -
> and it could be a case of multiple anecdotes not equalling data. But it
> seems as if to ensure maximum tire size you should use aluminum fenders.
>
> -J
>
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