[RBW] Re: FS: B67 Aged and Bosco Bullmoose Bar

[Mattt]

Price drop on the Bosco Bullmoose to $120 shipped before they go to Ebay 
land.  They are 58cm; I properly measured.  I can send pictures on request.


Matt

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Re: [RBW] My (f)Atlantis in the new Bunyan Velo

[Curtis McKenzie]

Mark,

How wonderful. Thanks for sharing.

Curtis

On Monday, May 2, 2016, WETH  wrote:

> Mark,
> That is one of my favorite publications-great writing and gorgeous
> photographs.  Your contribution fit right in.
> Congratulations and thanks for sharing.  Now that winter is over where I
> live, I don't mind reading about it!
> Erl
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Conversations with Grandma

[Steve Palincsar]

https://www.drbronner.com/our-story/timeline/read-the-moral-abcs/

On 05/02/2016 05:47 PM, Evan E. wrote:
Some of Garth's posts remind me of the text on Dr. Bronner's liquid 
soap bottles back in the 1980s. "Everything _here!_ Fully self 
supplied! All clean. All one! All truth! Dilute dilute dilute OK!"   :)





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[RBW] Re: My (f)Atlantis in the new Bunyan Velo

[kielsun]

This is a beautiful publication and your piece was really interesting. 
Thanks for sharing!

On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 4:58:45 PM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> Hello friends,
>
> Just wanted to share that I've got an article in the new Bunyan Velo 
> magazine, sort of an 'introduction to winter s24o-ing'. 
>
> You can read it online for free here:
>
> https://issuu.com/bunyanvelo/docs/bunyan-velo-issue-06
>
> Sort of funny timing given that it's spring and I got my first sunburn 
> yesterday while riding home on a hot s24o in shorts and a t-shirt, but 
> that's how it goes!
>
> Hope you enjoy, and please share with your friends. This is a small 
> operation, almost entirely volunteer-driven. 
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto Saddlebag Grip and Waxed Canvas Rain Cape

[Michael Ullmer]

Bump! and price drop

Saddlebag Grip now $70 shipped CONUS

On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 9:46:31 PM UTC-7, Michael Ullmer wrote:
>
> Rain cape sold!
>
> On Saturday, April 23, 2016 at 10:11:35 PM UTC-7, Michael Ullmer wrote:
>>
>> I've got one more Saddlebag Grip for sale that's been gathering dust. 
>> It's in great condition and comes with a homemade leather grip wrapped with 
>> twine. I rigged this up when I was using the grip with a large saddlesack. 
>> I had to cinch down the grip to the bag really tight to avoid any sway 
>> while I was riding, but when doing that I couldn't fit my fingers between 
>> the bag and grip. With this extra leather grip there is something to hold 
>> on to when the bag was off the bike. You can take it off easily, but 
>> thought someone might want to use it if they run into the same problem. I 
>> even put little pieces of insulation over the threads of the screws so the 
>> mini carabiner doesn't wear down the threads. Anyways, here's a link to the 
>> album
>>
>> https://goo.gl/photos/SeVnwqytgLuh3SZH6
>>
>> Saddlebag Grip - $80 shipped CONUS
>>
>> Details about the rain cape can be seen on my CL ad:
>>
>> http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bop/5544262067.html
>>
>> Waxed Canvas Rain Cape - $100 shipped CONUS
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Always heard this about latex tubes

[Ron Mc]

ps - especially on the Barlows (but even on the 27mm Open Paves) I love the 
sound they make on tar strips.  They sound (and feel) like an 
under--pressure soccer ball.  If you over-pressure them, they bounce like a 
soccer ball.  

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[RBW] Re: My 1x8 Clem

[Mattt]

Bob,

I like your drive train setup.  The wolf tooth chaining has inspired me to go 
that route.  Thanks for sharing.

Matt

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[RBW] Re: Mini Front Racks and Canti Brakes

[Dave Johnston]

I'm using CX-70s with a Paul straddle yoke set just above the crown hole 
mount of a Nitto M-12 and I think it works great, but I'm not that picky 
about canti straddle cable heights.

-Dave J

On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 3:23:43 PM UTC-4, Bob B wrote:
>
>
> Garth or anyone else: have you tried the low-profile CX70s with a Mini 
> Front Rack? This was the setup I was planning for a Hunq I'm building up, 
> but when I was poking around old threads here this bit got more a little 
> worried. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Always heard this about latex tubes

[René Sterental]

Thanks Ron!

I'll give them a try.

On Monday, May 2, 2016, Ron Mc  wrote:

> Hi Rene,
> Challenge makes a large cross/gravel size - best online price is Outside
> Outfiters.  I just received two in the mail from there today - I keep these
> stocked.
> Price is about the same as Schwalbe Ultralight.  The difference is
> vulcanized butyl v. super-elastic latex.
> Wiggle for some reason can't sell them to the US - probably an agreement
> with Challenge and whoever imports them to the US.
> One thing I really like about them is patching.  Keep an old tube, cut a
> piece, glue it over the hole with tubie mastic - squeeze it with something
> overnight (carry a spare new tube for roadside).
> The patch is permanent and the even stretches, unlike hard patches for
> butyl tubes.
> Vittoria makes road sizes (28mm) and Wiggle has a good price on these.
> They all have slick valve stems (and removable cores), and I put o-rings
> over the stems thinking it helps with shock and vibration.
>
>
> 
>
> maybe ti does nothing, but I will keep doing it, because I like it (one
> package of o-rings, which I bought for something else lasts forever).
>
> Michelin also makeslatex tubes - never tried them.
> I'll make the argument that latex rides better than tubeless, but notably
> better than butyl.
> All kind of arguments that it runs cooler and faster than butyl - no
> question it feels different - it feels softer and faster.
> Downside is you have to pump them - every day when you ride, and at least
> once/week when you don't.
> If you ever cut open one of your butyl tubes, water will pour out that has
> collected from your pump.  If you cut open a latex tube, it will be dry,
> because water evaporates through them.
> (I run latex in every bike except my daughter's upright with 42mm Soma SV
> - I run Schwalbe Ultralight in those, so I don't have to pump them every
> week).
> I actually carry a mix of spares, butyl and latex.  Latex can sometimes be
> hard to avoid a pinch, because it is so crazy stretchy.  Sometimes on the
> side of the road I'll install butyl to get home.
> Next time that tires comes off, though, latex is going back on.
> Regards
>
> On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 7:03:44 PM UTC-5, René wrote:
>>
>> Who makes latex tubes? And how do they compare to the Schwalbe ultralight
>> tubes?
>>
>>
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[RBW] Re: My 1x8 Clem

[Bob Ehrenbeck]

 

Thanks very much, Keith and Chris!


My saddle height is 71 cm. According to the brochure, the 52-cm Clem is 
suited for those with saddle heights from 68 to 78 cm, so I'm close to 
being right in the middle of the range. I would also be at the very top of 
the range for the 45-cm Clem (62 to 71 cm), but although sometimes I feel 
the bike is too big, I think I made the right decision with the 52.


Chris, you have some great projects ahead -- perhaps you can let your 
husband borrow one of them? : ) I agree, those Boscos do look really great, 
and I think I'll keep them on for a while and see how it goes.


Bob

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[RBW] Re: ISO: 32 hole Sturmey Archer S3X hub, later model

[Reed Kennedy]

On Friday, April 29, 2016 at 12:39:11 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>
> The S3X was a very brief explosion: years of anticipation; a couple of 
> years of immense interest; then oblivion. Why is that?
>

Well, I can tell you that at least for me they did not work very well. 
Rather dredging up vague memories, I'll link to the review I wrote at the 
time:
http://www.amazon.com/review/R26ADRBEXQJ6XF

I can't say for sure that the shop I bought mine from stopped carrying them 
because of all the money they lost on me, but I can tell you they did stop 
carrying them shortly after my little adventure.

I noticed you specified that you wanted a "later model" hub. I hope they 
improved them! Please check in after 6 months if it's still working? I 
still love the idea...


Best,
Reed
 

> On Thu, Apr 28, 2016 at 2:41 PM, Patrick Moore  > wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have one for sale or trade? I looked all last year for 
>> commercial sources to no avail.
>>
>> I say "later model" meaning, not the first issue, which scuttlebutt says 
>> had wear problems.
>>
>> Thanks, Patrick
>>
>> -- 
>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>> Other professional writing services.
>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>> *
>> ***
>> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
>> circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
>> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>>
>> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
>> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>>
>> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>>
>> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: My 1x8 Clem

[Deacon Patrick]

Sweet!

With abandon,
Patrick

On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 7:53:12 PM UTC-6, Bob Ehrenbeck wrote:
>
> I know the Joe Appaloosas seem to be all the rage right now — not to 
> mention all the hubbub with the Hubbuhubbuh and the Rosco Bubbe — but I 
> thought I’d share details and impressions of my recent Clem build.
>
>
> 
>
> This bike will be used mainly for local transportation, running errands, 
> and various on- and off-road exploration — in other words, your basic 
> utility bike. While I’ve purchased quite a few parts, accessories, and 
> miscellaneous non-bike stuff from Rivendell over the past few years — plus, 
> I eat bacon/don’t jog and just ride :) — this is my first experience with 
> an actual Rivendell frame.
>
> I went for a minimalistic and utilitarian drivetrain with this one: a 
> single narrow-wide chainring up front and an 8-speed cassette in the rear, 
> friction shifted via a handlebar-mounted thumbie. Here are the build specs:
>
>- Frameset: Clem Smith Jr., 52-cm
>- Headset, BB, and seatpost: Included with frame
>- Crankset: Sugino XD2
>- Chainring: Wolf Tooth Drop-Stop, 110 BCD, 34T
>- Cassette: Shimano, 8-speed, 11-34T
>- Rear derailleur: Shimano XT 780
>- Shifter: Sunrace One-At-a-Time thumbie
>- Chain: SRAM PG870 8-speed
>- Pedals: VP VP-001 Thin Gripsters
>- Front hub: Shutter Precision SV-8 dynamo
>- Rear hub: Shimano XT T780
>- Rims: Grand Bois, 32h
>- Spokes/nipples: Wheelsmith DB14
>- Tires: Schwalbe Big Ben Race Guard, 650B x 48
>- Handlebar: Nitto Bullmoose Bosco, Cromo Dullbrite 54cm
>- Brake levers: Shimano T610
>- Brakes: Avid Single Digit 7 V-brakes
>- Saddle: Brooks B-17
>- Headlight: Busch and Muller Lumotec IQ Premium Cyo
>- Taillight: Busch and Muller Toplight dyno
>- Rack: Pletscher Clem, with pannier rails and pump
>
>
> Some initial thoughts:
>
>- 
>
>Despite this being Rivendell’s “budget” bike, I’m really impressed 
>with the build quality of the frame. The lugwork at the seat cluster and 
>fork crown is beautiful, and the fork itself has an elegant little bend to 
>it. The paint job is just gorgeous, and the cream-painted lug windows and 
>fork-crown top are a nice touch. I also appreciate that the frame has 
>plenty of clearance to run wide tires, and it’s got lots of mounting 
> points 
>for fenders, racks, lights, etc.
>- 
>
>It’s a big bike. Of course it’s the long top tube and chainstays, and 
>the wingspan and rise of the Bullmoose Bosco handlebar add to the effect 
>(not to mention the chain needing a few more links over what’s in a 
>standard package). But it’s that long wheelbase — along with 48-mm (actual 
>width is 45 mm) tires — that makes for a plush and comfortable ride. It 
>also has a nice, stable feeling to it — it just goes where I want it to go 
>in a well-balanced manner. And that long wheelbase also keeps my heels 
> away 
>from rear panniers.
>
>
>- 
>
>I’m not entirely sold on the Bullmoose Bosco handlebar. I love the 
>looks, and it provides for a nice upright position and great visibility 
> for 
>the dense and trafficky area I usually ride in, but I find that my wrists 
>are not in an ideal position. It’s not a deal-breaker, but I wish I could 
>rotate the bar downward just a tad.
>- 
>
>I really like the Sunrace shifters. I’ve read that some haven’t been 
>too happy with them, but mine work flawlessly; I haven’t had any ghost 
>shifting or any other problems. Because of interference with the brake 
>lever clamping bolt, I had to rotate the shifter to the top of the bar 
> (and 
>away from Rivendell’s usual method of mounting them), but it’s still 
> easily 
>accessible with my thumb.
>- 
>
>The 1x8 drivetrain works really well, and I love the simplicity of the 
>set-up. The 34-tooth chainring with the 11-34t cassette gives me a range 
> of 
>26-81 gear inches, which is just right for the terrain I deal with and 
> what 
>I use the bike for, and the narrow-wide chainring does what it’s supposed 
>to do — while I haven’t gone over really rough terrain yet, and I’m 
> running 
>only an 8-speed cassette, I have yet to drop a chain.
>
> All in all, I’m very happy with this bike, and I’m glad I took the leap of 
> faith last year to jump on the pre-order special on the frame. The Clem is 
> a great introduction to Rivendell bikes, and I’m now wondering if this 
> might be the gateway drug to picking up more!
>
> More photos of the build can be seen here:
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/30490050@N04/albums/72157659062048963
>
> Bob E
>
> Garwood, NJ
>

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[RBW] PSA: 59cm Legolas frame on Ebay

[Matt Rhodes]

FYI.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivendell-Legolas-59cm-/152074885679?hash=item23685e9a2f:g:21EAAOSwZAtXJjsd

Cheers,
Matt

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[RBW] OT: carrying fishing poles on a bike

[Surlyprof]

I don't fish anymore but I often have to carry materials for class 
demontrations.  I've carried aluminum tubing, plastics and wood using this 
method:  https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/129545862@N03/22511138074/

Often becomes quite a conversation starter on the train to school!  There are 
limits as to how fat the cargo can be to not interrupt your cadence.

John

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[RBW] Re: Always heard this about latex tubes

[Sofia Torres]

YUP. 

I've had a latex CX tube survive after my tire was punctured by the largest 
thorn I've ever seen (about 1" long and very very sharp but stubby.) I did 
pull it out right away because it was a noticeable bump as the wheel 
turned. Tube was fine. I kept the thorn as a keepsake. 

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[RBW] Re: My 1x8 Clem

[Bob Ehrenbeck]

Thanks for the kind words, Matt, Joe, Ron, and Erl!

@ Matt:  Yeah, it's a lng bike -- I can fit my other bikes into the 
back of my Saab without needing to remove the front wheel, but the Clem is 
an exception. And while the Wolf Tooth chainring isn't cheap, it's well 
made (and in the USA), and it 's just what I need (although I haven't tried 
a 1x8 using a normal chainring or a chainkeeper).

@ Joe:  That sounds awesome! I would love to see how that eClem project 
progresses.

@ Ron:  I'm really happy with the Carsick Design panniers, and Brian and 
Monica are great people to deal with.

@ Erl:  This is my first experience with a Shutter Precision hub, but so 
far I really like it. It compares well with the Schmidt SONdelux Wide Body 
hub I have on my Rawland rSogn that powers an Edelux I: Both do the job, 
but while the SONdelux may make for a stronger wheel and has more of a 
high-end feel, the SV-8 is significantly less expensive (while also having 
an attractive look). Also, if you trim the headlight wire to get an exact 
length for your application, it's easier to install the wire to the hub 
with the plastic press-fit connectors of the SP hub, rather than breaking 
out the soldering iron and heat gun...and magnifying glass! So, I'd 
definitely consider another SP hub.

Bob

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[RBW] Re: PSA: 59cm Legolas frame on Ebay

[Leslie]

Here's the thread on here: 
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rbw-owners-bunch/47N6k_T5y9w 


I was on the verge of ordering a Legolas once, and still *want* one, but 
then I picked up a canti-Rom, and have yet to find a reason why I'd need a 
Legolas instead of the canti-Rom... truth-be-told, the canti-Rom is 
probably better-suited to me than a Legolas would be, but man, there's a 
certain panache about a Rivbike Legolas  yeah, I still want one, 
but   just can't justify it at this point, not with the canti-Rom in 
the stable.

(And, FWIW, the canti-Rom has become my most-frequently-ridden bike)

  



On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 10:12:09 AM UTC-4, Matt Rhodes wrote:
>
> FYI.
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivendell-Legolas-59cm-/152074885679?hash=item23685e9a2f:g:21EAAOSwZAtXJjsd
>
> Cheers,
> Matt
>

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[RBW] Re: OT: carrying fishing poles on a bike

[Ron Mc]

Clayton, don't be surprised.  Trout have an IQ of 6, and even the smartest, 
carp, only have an IQ of 12 (at least this what I heard from Gary Borger, 
who said he heard it from academic somethings...)

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 60 cm Quickbeam ffhsbb $740

[Captain Conway Bennett]

https://www.flickr.com/gp/102621504@N05/301kc1 

Does this work?  It's in the newbaums tape group on Flickr from when I wrapped 
the bars.  Basically mine was sold to me as a 58 but it may be a 62.  I got a 
fair deal on a 58 green so n-0.  Unless I find a sweet orange bike.  I've 
always been curious about the xoxo and I have a sweet 26" wheelset.

Fair winds,

Captain Conway Bennett

> On May 2, 2016, at 1:19 AM, Philip Williamson  
> wrote:
> 
> Do you have any pictures? I'm not going to buy it (even though I want its), 
> but I always like to see pictures of Quickbeams, and I'd like to see how an 
> orange one looks without the downtube stickers. 
> 
> Philip
> www.biketinker.com
> 
>> On Wednesday, April 27, 2016 at 2:37:59 PM UTC-7, Conway Bennett wrote:
>> So I bought an orange 60 cm QB at the end of summer '14 from the original 
>> owner and I love it.  But,  it fits "riv big" and after riding for a while I 
>> told myself that if a 58 ever came up for sale I'd snatch it up.  It did so 
>> I did so my gain is your gain.  The bike has lots of beausage but no dents 
>> or rust.  The decals had been removed by the original owner as well so it's 
>> stealth city bike.  $700+$40 for bikeflights.com.
>> FW,
>> 
>> CCB
>> 
> 
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[RBW] Re: My 1x8 Clem

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

That is one handsome Clem Jr., build, Bob. I like that color a lot, too. 
I've been riding mine every day for a good while now, about ready for my 
"intermediate" report! Your gearing sounds good. One of the bikes my 
Clem(entine) sort of replaced was a 1x7 with a 41/27 low which worked ok, 
but I appreciate the little ring on my stock Clem(...) when heading up a 
longer, steeper hill with the Burley Piccolo and my 6-year-old in tow.  
Looking at the close-up of your seat tube, my single regret re: Clem vs. 
Clementine is, no guy climbing out the manhole. Boo-hoo and no fair! One 
thing I would say is, give the Boscos a bit more time.

On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 9:53:12 PM UTC-4, Bob Ehrenbeck wrote:
>
> I know the Joe Appaloosas seem to be all the rage right now — not to 
> mention all the hubbub with the Hubbuhubbuh and the Rosco Bubbe — but I 
> thought I’d share details and impressions of my recent Clem build.
>
>
> 
>
> This bike will be used mainly for local transportation, running errands, 
> and various on- and off-road exploration — in other words, your basic 
> utility bike. While I’ve purchased quite a few parts, accessories, and 
> miscellaneous non-bike stuff from Rivendell over the past few years — plus, 
> I eat bacon/don’t jog and just ride :) — this is my first experience with 
> an actual Rivendell frame.
>
> I went for a minimalistic and utilitarian drivetrain with this one: a 
> single narrow-wide chainring up front and an 8-speed cassette in the rear, 
> friction shifted via a handlebar-mounted thumbie. Here are the build specs:
>
>- Frameset: Clem Smith Jr., 52-cm
>- Headset, BB, and seatpost: Included with frame
>- Crankset: Sugino XD2
>- Chainring: Wolf Tooth Drop-Stop, 110 BCD, 34T
>- Cassette: Shimano, 8-speed, 11-34T
>- Rear derailleur: Shimano XT 780
>- Shifter: Sunrace One-At-a-Time thumbie
>- Chain: SRAM PG870 8-speed
>- Pedals: VP VP-001 Thin Gripsters
>- Front hub: Shutter Precision SV-8 dynamo
>- Rear hub: Shimano XT T780
>- Rims: Grand Bois, 32h
>- Spokes/nipples: Wheelsmith DB14
>- Tires: Schwalbe Big Ben Race Guard, 650B x 48
>- Handlebar: Nitto Bullmoose Bosco, Cromo Dullbrite 54cm
>- Brake levers: Shimano T610
>- Brakes: Avid Single Digit 7 V-brakes
>- Saddle: Brooks B-17
>- Headlight: Busch and Muller Lumotec IQ Premium Cyo
>- Taillight: Busch and Muller Toplight dyno
>- Rack: Pletscher Clem, with pannier rails and pump
>
>
> Some initial thoughts:
>
>- 
>
>Despite this being Rivendell’s “budget” bike, I’m really impressed 
>with the build quality of the frame. The lugwork at the seat cluster and 
>fork crown is beautiful, and the fork itself has an elegant little bend to 
>it. The paint job is just gorgeous, and the cream-painted lug windows and 
>fork-crown top are a nice touch. I also appreciate that the frame has 
>plenty of clearance to run wide tires, and it’s got lots of mounting 
> points 
>for fenders, racks, lights, etc.
>- 
>
>It’s a big bike. Of course it’s the long top tube and chainstays, and 
>the wingspan and rise of the Bullmoose Bosco handlebar add to the effect 
>(not to mention the chain needing a few more links over what’s in a 
>standard package). But it’s that long wheelbase — along with 48-mm (actual 
>width is 45 mm) tires — that makes for a plush and comfortable ride. It 
>also has a nice, stable feeling to it — it just goes where I want it to go 
>in a well-balanced manner. And that long wheelbase also keeps my heels 
> away 
>from rear panniers.
>
>
>- 
>
>I’m not entirely sold on the Bullmoose Bosco handlebar. I love the 
>looks, and it provides for a nice upright position and great visibility 
> for 
>the dense and trafficky area I usually ride in, but I find that my wrists 
>are not in an ideal position. It’s not a deal-breaker, but I wish I could 
>rotate the bar downward just a tad.
>- 
>
>I really like the Sunrace shifters. I’ve read that some haven’t been 
>too happy with them, but mine work flawlessly; I haven’t had any ghost 
>shifting or any other problems. Because of interference with the brake 
>lever clamping bolt, I had to rotate the shifter to the top of the bar 
> (and 
>away from Rivendell’s usual method of mounting them), but it’s still 
> easily 
>accessible with my thumb.
>- 
>
>The 1x8 drivetrain works really well, and I love the simplicity of the 
>set-up. The 34-tooth chainring with the 11-34t cassette gives me a range 
> of 
>26-81 gear inches, which is just right for the terrain I deal with and 
> what 
>I use the bike for, and the narrow-wide chainring does what it’s supposed 
>to do — while I haven’t gone over really rough terrain 

[RBW] Re: OT: carrying fishing poles on a bike

[Ron Mc]

that works.  
Nothing instructional to add, but asthetic:  



The preface photo in Frank Wolner's book Trout Hunting

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[RBW] Re: My 1x8 Clem

[Philip Kim]

oh man, this is such an awesome build. i'm in the process of rebuilding my 
Soma San Marcos for  my gf and bought bosco bullmoose handlebars for it. 
She's been adamant about drop bars. I was finally able to convince her by 
showing her your build. thanks!

On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 9:53:12 PM UTC-4, Bob Ehrenbeck wrote:
>
> I know the Joe Appaloosas seem to be all the rage right now — not to 
> mention all the hubbub with the Hubbuhubbuh and the Rosco Bubbe — but I 
> thought I’d share details and impressions of my recent Clem build.
>
>
> 
>
> This bike will be used mainly for local transportation, running errands, 
> and various on- and off-road exploration — in other words, your basic 
> utility bike. While I’ve purchased quite a few parts, accessories, and 
> miscellaneous non-bike stuff from Rivendell over the past few years — plus, 
> I eat bacon/don’t jog and just ride :) — this is my first experience with 
> an actual Rivendell frame.
>
> I went for a minimalistic and utilitarian drivetrain with this one: a 
> single narrow-wide chainring up front and an 8-speed cassette in the rear, 
> friction shifted via a handlebar-mounted thumbie. Here are the build specs:
>
>- Frameset: Clem Smith Jr., 52-cm
>- Headset, BB, and seatpost: Included with frame
>- Crankset: Sugino XD2
>- Chainring: Wolf Tooth Drop-Stop, 110 BCD, 34T
>- Cassette: Shimano, 8-speed, 11-34T
>- Rear derailleur: Shimano XT 780
>- Shifter: Sunrace One-At-a-Time thumbie
>- Chain: SRAM PG870 8-speed
>- Pedals: VP VP-001 Thin Gripsters
>- Front hub: Shutter Precision SV-8 dynamo
>- Rear hub: Shimano XT T780
>- Rims: Grand Bois, 32h
>- Spokes/nipples: Wheelsmith DB14
>- Tires: Schwalbe Big Ben Race Guard, 650B x 48
>- Handlebar: Nitto Bullmoose Bosco, Cromo Dullbrite 54cm
>- Brake levers: Shimano T610
>- Brakes: Avid Single Digit 7 V-brakes
>- Saddle: Brooks B-17
>- Headlight: Busch and Muller Lumotec IQ Premium Cyo
>- Taillight: Busch and Muller Toplight dyno
>- Rack: Pletscher Clem, with pannier rails and pump
>
>
> Some initial thoughts:
>
>- 
>
>Despite this being Rivendell’s “budget” bike, I’m really impressed 
>with the build quality of the frame. The lugwork at the seat cluster and 
>fork crown is beautiful, and the fork itself has an elegant little bend to 
>it. The paint job is just gorgeous, and the cream-painted lug windows and 
>fork-crown top are a nice touch. I also appreciate that the frame has 
>plenty of clearance to run wide tires, and it’s got lots of mounting 
> points 
>for fenders, racks, lights, etc.
>- 
>
>It’s a big bike. Of course it’s the long top tube and chainstays, and 
>the wingspan and rise of the Bullmoose Bosco handlebar add to the effect 
>(not to mention the chain needing a few more links over what’s in a 
>standard package). But it’s that long wheelbase — along with 48-mm (actual 
>width is 45 mm) tires — that makes for a plush and comfortable ride. It 
>also has a nice, stable feeling to it — it just goes where I want it to go 
>in a well-balanced manner. And that long wheelbase also keeps my heels 
> away 
>from rear panniers.
>
>
>- 
>
>I’m not entirely sold on the Bullmoose Bosco handlebar. I love the 
>looks, and it provides for a nice upright position and great visibility 
> for 
>the dense and trafficky area I usually ride in, but I find that my wrists 
>are not in an ideal position. It’s not a deal-breaker, but I wish I could 
>rotate the bar downward just a tad.
>- 
>
>I really like the Sunrace shifters. I’ve read that some haven’t been 
>too happy with them, but mine work flawlessly; I haven’t had any ghost 
>shifting or any other problems. Because of interference with the brake 
>lever clamping bolt, I had to rotate the shifter to the top of the bar 
> (and 
>away from Rivendell’s usual method of mounting them), but it’s still 
> easily 
>accessible with my thumb.
>- 
>
>The 1x8 drivetrain works really well, and I love the simplicity of the 
>set-up. The 34-tooth chainring with the 11-34t cassette gives me a range 
> of 
>26-81 gear inches, which is just right for the terrain I deal with and 
> what 
>I use the bike for, and the narrow-wide chainring does what it’s supposed 
>to do — while I haven’t gone over really rough terrain yet, and I’m 
> running 
>only an 8-speed cassette, I have yet to drop a chain.
>
> All in all, I’m very happy with this bike, and I’m glad I took the leap of 
> faith last year to jump on the pre-order special on the frame. The Clem is 
> a great introduction to Rivendell bikes, and I’m now wondering if this 
> might be the gateway drug to picking up more!
>
> More photos of 

[RBW] Re: My 1x8 Clem

[El Sapo]

Great build. Great photography. I've never liked racks, but that one looks 
perfect on the bike. 

   

On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 6:53:12 PM UTC-7, Bob Ehrenbeck wrote:

> I know the Joe Appaloosas seem to be all the rage right now — not to 
> mention all the hubbub with the Hubbuhubbuh and the Rosco Bubbe — but I 
> thought I’d share details and impressions of my recent Clem build.
>
>
> 
>
> This bike will be used mainly for local transportation, running errands, 
> and various on- and off-road exploration — in other words, your basic 
> utility bike. While I’ve purchased quite a few parts, accessories, and 
> miscellaneous non-bike stuff from Rivendell over the past few years — plus, 
> I eat bacon/don’t jog and just ride :) — this is my first experience with 
> an actual Rivendell frame.
>
> I went for a minimalistic and utilitarian drivetrain with this one: a 
> single narrow-wide chainring up front and an 8-speed cassette in the rear, 
> friction shifted via a handlebar-mounted thumbie. Here are the build specs:
>
>- Frameset: Clem Smith Jr., 52-cm
>- Headset, BB, and seatpost: Included with frame
>- Crankset: Sugino XD2
>- Chainring: Wolf Tooth Drop-Stop, 110 BCD, 34T
>- Cassette: Shimano, 8-speed, 11-34T
>- Rear derailleur: Shimano XT 780
>- Shifter: Sunrace One-At-a-Time thumbie
>- Chain: SRAM PG870 8-speed
>- Pedals: VP VP-001 Thin Gripsters
>- Front hub: Shutter Precision SV-8 dynamo
>- Rear hub: Shimano XT T780
>- Rims: Grand Bois, 32h
>- Spokes/nipples: Wheelsmith DB14
>- Tires: Schwalbe Big Ben Race Guard, 650B x 48
>- Handlebar: Nitto Bullmoose Bosco, Cromo Dullbrite 54cm
>- Brake levers: Shimano T610
>- Brakes: Avid Single Digit 7 V-brakes
>- Saddle: Brooks B-17
>- Headlight: Busch and Muller Lumotec IQ Premium Cyo
>- Taillight: Busch and Muller Toplight dyno
>- Rack: Pletscher Clem, with pannier rails and pump
>
>
> Some initial thoughts:
>
>- 
>
>Despite this being Rivendell’s “budget” bike, I’m really impressed 
>with the build quality of the frame. The lugwork at the seat cluster and 
>fork crown is beautiful, and the fork itself has an elegant little bend to 
>it. The paint job is just gorgeous, and the cream-painted lug windows and 
>fork-crown top are a nice touch. I also appreciate that the frame has 
>plenty of clearance to run wide tires, and it’s got lots of mounting 
> points 
>for fenders, racks, lights, etc.
>- 
>
>It’s a big bike. Of course it’s the long top tube and chainstays, and 
>the wingspan and rise of the Bullmoose Bosco handlebar add to the effect 
>(not to mention the chain needing a few more links over what’s in a 
>standard package). But it’s that long wheelbase — along with 48-mm (actual 
>width is 45 mm) tires — that makes for a plush and comfortable ride. It 
>also has a nice, stable feeling to it — it just goes where I want it to go 
>in a well-balanced manner. And that long wheelbase also keeps my heels 
> away 
>from rear panniers.
>
>
>- 
>
>I’m not entirely sold on the Bullmoose Bosco handlebar. I love the 
>looks, and it provides for a nice upright position and great visibility 
> for 
>the dense and trafficky area I usually ride in, but I find that my wrists 
>are not in an ideal position. It’s not a deal-breaker, but I wish I could 
>rotate the bar downward just a tad.
>- 
>
>I really like the Sunrace shifters. I’ve read that some haven’t been 
>too happy with them, but mine work flawlessly; I haven’t had any ghost 
>shifting or any other problems. Because of interference with the brake 
>lever clamping bolt, I had to rotate the shifter to the top of the bar 
> (and 
>away from Rivendell’s usual method of mounting them), but it’s still 
> easily 
>accessible with my thumb.
>- 
>
>The 1x8 drivetrain works really well, and I love the simplicity of the 
>set-up. The 34-tooth chainring with the 11-34t cassette gives me a range 
> of 
>26-81 gear inches, which is just right for the terrain I deal with and 
> what 
>I use the bike for, and the narrow-wide chainring does what it’s supposed 
>to do — while I haven’t gone over really rough terrain yet, and I’m 
> running 
>only an 8-speed cassette, I have yet to drop a chain.
>
> All in all, I’m very happy with this bike, and I’m glad I took the leap of 
> faith last year to jump on the pre-order special on the frame. The Clem is 
> a great introduction to Rivendell bikes, and I’m now wondering if this 
> might be the gateway drug to picking up more!
>
> More photos of the build can be seen here:
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/30490050@N04/albums/72157659062048963
>
> Bob E
>
> Garwood, NJ
>

-- 
You received 

[RBW] Re: My 1x8 Clem

[JohnS]

Most excellent build Bob! Thanks for sharing, I wasn't familiar with the 
Wolf products, so I may consider their chain ring for my next 1x build. 

JohnS


On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 9:53:12 PM UTC-4, Bob Ehrenbeck wrote:

> I know the Joe Appaloosas seem to be all the rage right now — not to 
> mention all the hubbub with the Hubbuhubbuh and the Rosco Bubbe — but I 
> thought I’d share details and impressions of my recent Clem build.
>
>
> 
>
> This bike will be used mainly for local transportation, running errands, 
> and various on- and off-road exploration — in other words, your basic 
> utility bike. While I’ve purchased quite a few parts, accessories, and 
> miscellaneous non-bike stuff from Rivendell over the past few years — plus, 
> I eat bacon/don’t jog and just ride :) — this is my first experience with 
> an actual Rivendell frame.
>
> I went for a minimalistic and utilitarian drivetrain with this one: a 
> single narrow-wide chainring up front and an 8-speed cassette in the rear, 
> friction shifted via a handlebar-mounted thumbie. Here are the build specs:
>
>- Frameset: Clem Smith Jr., 52-cm
>- Headset, BB, and seatpost: Included with frame
>- Crankset: Sugino XD2
>- Chainring: Wolf Tooth Drop-Stop, 110 BCD, 34T
>- Cassette: Shimano, 8-speed, 11-34T
>- Rear derailleur: Shimano XT 780
>- Shifter: Sunrace One-At-a-Time thumbie
>- Chain: SRAM PG870 8-speed
>- Pedals: VP VP-001 Thin Gripsters
>- Front hub: Shutter Precision SV-8 dynamo
>- Rear hub: Shimano XT T780
>- Rims: Grand Bois, 32h
>- Spokes/nipples: Wheelsmith DB14
>- Tires: Schwalbe Big Ben Race Guard, 650B x 48
>- Handlebar: Nitto Bullmoose Bosco, Cromo Dullbrite 54cm
>- Brake levers: Shimano T610
>- Brakes: Avid Single Digit 7 V-brakes
>- Saddle: Brooks B-17
>- Headlight: Busch and Muller Lumotec IQ Premium Cyo
>- Taillight: Busch and Muller Toplight dyno
>- Rack: Pletscher Clem, with pannier rails and pump
>
>
> Some initial thoughts:
>
>- 
>
>Despite this being Rivendell’s “budget” bike, I’m really impressed 
>with the build quality of the frame. The lugwork at the seat cluster and 
>fork crown is beautiful, and the fork itself has an elegant little bend to 
>it. The paint job is just gorgeous, and the cream-painted lug windows and 
>fork-crown top are a nice touch. I also appreciate that the frame has 
>plenty of clearance to run wide tires, and it’s got lots of mounting 
> points 
>for fenders, racks, lights, etc.
>- 
>
>It’s a big bike. Of course it’s the long top tube and chainstays, and 
>the wingspan and rise of the Bullmoose Bosco handlebar add to the effect 
>(not to mention the chain needing a few more links over what’s in a 
>standard package). But it’s that long wheelbase — along with 48-mm (actual 
>width is 45 mm) tires — that makes for a plush and comfortable ride. It 
>also has a nice, stable feeling to it — it just goes where I want it to go 
>in a well-balanced manner. And that long wheelbase also keeps my heels 
> away 
>from rear panniers.
>
>
>- 
>
>I’m not entirely sold on the Bullmoose Bosco handlebar. I love the 
>looks, and it provides for a nice upright position and great visibility 
> for 
>the dense and trafficky area I usually ride in, but I find that my wrists 
>are not in an ideal position. It’s not a deal-breaker, but I wish I could 
>rotate the bar downward just a tad.
>- 
>
>I really like the Sunrace shifters. I’ve read that some haven’t been 
>too happy with them, but mine work flawlessly; I haven’t had any ghost 
>shifting or any other problems. Because of interference with the brake 
>lever clamping bolt, I had to rotate the shifter to the top of the bar 
> (and 
>away from Rivendell’s usual method of mounting them), but it’s still 
> easily 
>accessible with my thumb.
>- 
>
>The 1x8 drivetrain works really well, and I love the simplicity of the 
>set-up. The 34-tooth chainring with the 11-34t cassette gives me a range 
> of 
>26-81 gear inches, which is just right for the terrain I deal with and 
> what 
>I use the bike for, and the narrow-wide chainring does what it’s supposed 
>to do — while I haven’t gone over really rough terrain yet, and I’m 
> running 
>only an 8-speed cassette, I have yet to drop a chain.
>
> All in all, I’m very happy with this bike, and I’m glad I took the leap of 
> faith last year to jump on the pre-order special on the frame. The Clem is 
> a great introduction to Rivendell bikes, and I’m now wondering if this 
> might be the gateway drug to picking up more!
>
> More photos of the build can be seen here:
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/30490050@N04/albums/72157659062048963
>
> 

[RBW] Re: OT: carrying fishing poles on a bike

[Ron Mc]

Doh, I should have posted this earlier.  
In the 50s, there was a steel spring rod called the Stubcaster - it works 
pretty well.  



The grandson started them up again, this time emmrod, including his 
grandad's initials in the name.  

He has since sold the company, but they work and pack small.  

http://www.emmrod.com/

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[RBW] Re: OT: carrying fishing poles on a bike

['doc' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Mine is in on the same shelf with my panniers and camping gear:  
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Fh_YwAnv7w



On Saturday, April 30, 2016 at 8:33:37 PM UTC-4, WETH wrote:

> As I recall, a few list members fish.  My question, does anyone have 
> suggestions for carrying poles on their bike?
> The internet showed me some interesting homemade rack attachments using 
> PVC pipe, other folk strap poles to the tI prune like a frame pump, others 
> secure pole to waterbottle cage/ head tube, others take pole apart and put 
> in a backpack.  And, I found this: http://www.bikefisherman.com. 
> Am I missing any other options?
> I am building up a bike for the son of a dear family friend to take to 
> college.  He loves to fish.  When the build is complete, I want to help him 
> devise a way to carry his pole for fishing.  The bike will have a rear rack 
> and front mini rack.  
> Thoughts?
> Thanks,
> Erl

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[RBW] Re: PSA: 59cm Legolas frame on Ebay

[Joe Bernard]

There's a Curt-built/Joe-painted A/R on Ebay and San Francisco Craigslist, too. 
It's a 50-54 out of Vallejo, which I'm sure is Ray Varella. It's my size and 
gorgeous, but I'm all tapped out at the moment. Somebody go buy it!

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[RBW] For Sale: Velo Orange 55cm Campeur

[Belopsky]

Lots of Rivish parts. 

Can be had cheaper with a different wheelset (will sell without wheels 
too..)





Contact me off list, hope this is OK listing it here. Thanks!

$1600 - Ann Arbor, MI

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[RBW] Re: Talk to me about bottom brackets

[Brian Campbell]

Phil Wood! ;-)

On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 1:27:48 PM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> Haha! I'm terribly curious how you'll determine who qualifies as a "newbie 
> with romantic/retro sensibilities but no experience with this kind of BB."
>
> You know, up till this moment I had zero interest in cup and cone bb's, 
> and never would imagine considering going back to one. maybe that's because 
> I'm not aware of a quality option out there. But given the fact that my 
> environment destroys bearings in every BB I've tried, including Phil Wood, 
> within a season, maybe a cup and cone would be exactly what I need. 
> Self-serviceable with nothing but a couple special wrenches and a tube of 
> grease. Hmmm 
>
> Say Grant - who will be manufacturing these BB's? 
>
> On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 8:32:07 PM UTC-5, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>>
>> BB spindle length:
>>
>> It's always safe and usually best to use the bb the crank maker 
>> recommends, or (more to the point) a dimensional equivalent. I'm not going 
>> to address taper here, just quick notes about length. It comes down to 
>> chainline, which has nothing to do with the chain. Almost everything 
>> anybody could possibly say about CL has already been said by Sheldon on his 
>> site, but I don't remember whether he addressed derailers there, so I will 
>> fast here. Chainline is how far out from the center of the seat tube the 
>> middle ring on a triple sits, or the midpoint between two rings on a double 
>> sits. 
>>
>> There are two common chainlines, I mean three: 
>>
>> 43 or 43.5mm (I forget)--for road doubles
>> 47.5mm -- for road triples and hybrid-like bikes. 
>> 50.5 or 51(I forget) -- for mtn bikes
>>
>> "For" means "typical," not "the only way." 
>> But what it means is that mtn bike front derailers can reach farther out 
>> and can't drag in as close as road front derailers. 
>>
>> Example: If you put a Sugino or Silver crank on a 110mm bb spindle, the 
>> chainline will be 47.5, and an XT or any other mtn front derailer will be 
>> able to shift to the big ring, but not to the small one. To fix that, you 
>> put a 113mm bb spindle, which changes the CL from 47.5 to 50.5, and it all 
>> works.
>>
>> There is no perfect correlation bwt Q-Factor and CL. In general, mtn 
>> cranks are for bow-legged cowboys and they have high Q's, but it's easy to 
>> design and make great mtn cranks with mtn bike CLs and low-Q's (under 
>> 163?). The mtn crank makers don't generally do that, though, because then 
>> their cranks won't fit onto lots of expensive and prestigious bikes that 
>> have chainstays that stick out too far in the wrong spots and so require 
>> higher Q-Factors.
>>
>> This doesn't address durability, but it's rare to hear of $40 bb's 
>> crapping out. Not unheard of, but it's not unheard of at any price, either. 
>> We are going to stock an ol' cup-and-cone style BB in ass't lengths 
>> sometime this year. It will cost more and we'll refuse to sell it to -- how 
>> do I best say this? -- a "newbie with romantic/retro sensibilities but no 
>> experience with this kind of BB." We certainly won't quit selling the $40 
>> Shimano bbs, which are so good. What we will do, when it all happens, is 
>> extol the theoretical virtues of the old kind...which, given the reliabiliy 
>> of the new kind, are undeniable, but may not matter.
>> G
>>
>> On Wednesday, April 27, 2016 at 1:27:49 PM UTC-7, dstein wrote:
>>>
>>> Why are more expensive bottom brackets more expensive? What do you gain? 
>>> Is it just durability? Or is there any sort of performance gain (ie, does 
>>> it roll smoother, faster, etc)?
>>>
>>> I've worked on most bike parts now minus the bottom bracket and headset. 
>>> About to change cranks on my hunqapillar form the Sugino triple (with a 107 
>>> or 110 bb) to a White Industries Eno (with a 113 bb). Trying to figure out 
>>> if I go w/ the $40 bb on Riv's site? Or a White Industries or something 
>>> similar? This bike will see 500-1000 miles a year on dirt and some mud. And 
>>> support the occasional overnighter.
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: My 1x8 Clem

[Bob Ehrenbeck]

 

Mark, I love the grey, too; I think it’s the superb paint job really makes 
this color stand-out. I hadn’t mentioned earlier that I love the decals, 
too – particularly the one of Clem wearing his bowler, climbing out of the 
manhole. Thank you for the comment; I’ll definitely spend some more time 
with the Boscos, and I’m looking forward to reading the next installment of 
your Clem(…) reporting.

El Sapo, thanks for the compliment! I agree, maybe it’s the long wheelbase, 
but it just seemed that the Clem was screaming for a rear rack.

Patrick, you should know that the idea of installing a 1x drivetrain came 
from reading your posts on the subject a while back. So, thanks for the 
inspiration (and your note)!

John, thanks very much! I myself learned a lot from this group (like going 
about a 1x system), so I'm glad to hear my post was helpful.
Philip, that’s awesome to hear; thanks for passing that on! (That’s it: the 
Bosco Bullmoose is staying on!) Thanks for the comment, and please post 
pictures of that San Marcos project.
Bob

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[RBW] Re: Talk to me about bottom brackets

[Mark Reimer]

Haha! I'm terribly curious how you'll determine who qualifies as a "newbie 
with romantic/retro sensibilities but no experience with this kind of BB."

You know, up till this moment I had zero interest in cup and cone bb's, and 
never would imagine considering going back to one. maybe that's because I'm 
not aware of a quality option out there. But given the fact that my 
environment destroys bearings in every BB I've tried, including Phil Wood, 
within a season, maybe a cup and cone would be exactly what I need. 
Self-serviceable with nothing but a couple special wrenches and a tube of 
grease. Hmmm 

Say Grant - who will be manufacturing these BB's? 

On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 8:32:07 PM UTC-5, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>
> BB spindle length:
>
> It's always safe and usually best to use the bb the crank maker 
> recommends, or (more to the point) a dimensional equivalent. I'm not going 
> to address taper here, just quick notes about length. It comes down to 
> chainline, which has nothing to do with the chain. Almost everything 
> anybody could possibly say about CL has already been said by Sheldon on his 
> site, but I don't remember whether he addressed derailers there, so I will 
> fast here. Chainline is how far out from the center of the seat tube the 
> middle ring on a triple sits, or the midpoint between two rings on a double 
> sits. 
>
> There are two common chainlines, I mean three: 
>
> 43 or 43.5mm (I forget)--for road doubles
> 47.5mm -- for road triples and hybrid-like bikes. 
> 50.5 or 51(I forget) -- for mtn bikes
>
> "For" means "typical," not "the only way." 
> But what it means is that mtn bike front derailers can reach farther out 
> and can't drag in as close as road front derailers. 
>
> Example: If you put a Sugino or Silver crank on a 110mm bb spindle, the 
> chainline will be 47.5, and an XT or any other mtn front derailer will be 
> able to shift to the big ring, but not to the small one. To fix that, you 
> put a 113mm bb spindle, which changes the CL from 47.5 to 50.5, and it all 
> works.
>
> There is no perfect correlation bwt Q-Factor and CL. In general, mtn 
> cranks are for bow-legged cowboys and they have high Q's, but it's easy to 
> design and make great mtn cranks with mtn bike CLs and low-Q's (under 
> 163?). The mtn crank makers don't generally do that, though, because then 
> their cranks won't fit onto lots of expensive and prestigious bikes that 
> have chainstays that stick out too far in the wrong spots and so require 
> higher Q-Factors.
>
> This doesn't address durability, but it's rare to hear of $40 bb's 
> crapping out. Not unheard of, but it's not unheard of at any price, either. 
> We are going to stock an ol' cup-and-cone style BB in ass't lengths 
> sometime this year. It will cost more and we'll refuse to sell it to -- how 
> do I best say this? -- a "newbie with romantic/retro sensibilities but no 
> experience with this kind of BB." We certainly won't quit selling the $40 
> Shimano bbs, which are so good. What we will do, when it all happens, is 
> extol the theoretical virtues of the old kind...which, given the reliabiliy 
> of the new kind, are undeniable, but may not matter.
> G
>
> On Wednesday, April 27, 2016 at 1:27:49 PM UTC-7, dstein wrote:
>>
>> Why are more expensive bottom brackets more expensive? What do you gain? 
>> Is it just durability? Or is there any sort of performance gain (ie, does 
>> it roll smoother, faster, etc)?
>>
>> I've worked on most bike parts now minus the bottom bracket and headset. 
>> About to change cranks on my hunqapillar form the Sugino triple (with a 107 
>> or 110 bb) to a White Industries Eno (with a 113 bb). Trying to figure out 
>> if I go w/ the $40 bb on Riv's site? Or a White Industries or something 
>> similar? This bike will see 500-1000 miles a year on dirt and some mud. And 
>> support the occasional overnighter.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Talk to me about bottom brackets

[Mark Reimer]

Nope. You must've missed my comment. Phil wood bearings are for sunny 
California. My Phil BB and hub bearings never last more than a winter. They are 
not suitable for cold and wet climates. And don't get me started on their free 
hubs hah

> On May 2, 2016, at 12:48 PM, Brian Campbell  wrote:
> 
> Phil Wood! ;-)
> 
>> On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 1:27:48 PM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote:
>> Haha! I'm terribly curious how you'll determine who qualifies as a "newbie 
>> with romantic/retro sensibilities but no experience with this kind of BB."
>> 
>> You know, up till this moment I had zero interest in cup and cone bb's, and 
>> never would imagine considering going back to one. maybe that's because I'm 
>> not aware of a quality option out there. But given the fact that my 
>> environment destroys bearings in every BB I've tried, including Phil Wood, 
>> within a season, maybe a cup and cone would be exactly what I need. 
>> Self-serviceable with nothing but a couple special wrenches and a tube of 
>> grease. Hmmm 
>> 
>> Say Grant - who will be manufacturing these BB's? 
>> 
>>> On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 8:32:07 PM UTC-5, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>>> BB spindle length:
>>> 
>>> It's always safe and usually best to use the bb the crank maker recommends, 
>>> or (more to the point) a dimensional equivalent. I'm not going to address 
>>> taper here, just quick notes about length. It comes down to chainline, 
>>> which has nothing to do with the chain. Almost everything anybody could 
>>> possibly say about CL has already been said by Sheldon on his site, but I 
>>> don't remember whether he addressed derailers there, so I will fast here. 
>>> Chainline is how far out from the center of the seat tube the middle ring 
>>> on a triple sits, or the midpoint between two rings on a double sits. 
>>> 
>>> There are two common chainlines, I mean three: 
>>> 
>>> 43 or 43.5mm (I forget)--for road doubles
>>> 47.5mm -- for road triples and hybrid-like bikes. 
>>> 50.5 or 51(I forget) -- for mtn bikes
>>> 
>>> "For" means "typical," not "the only way." 
>>> But what it means is that mtn bike front derailers can reach farther out 
>>> and can't drag in as close as road front derailers. 
>>> 
>>> Example: If you put a Sugino or Silver crank on a 110mm bb spindle, the 
>>> chainline will be 47.5, and an XT or any other mtn front derailer will be 
>>> able to shift to the big ring, but not to the small one. To fix that, you 
>>> put a 113mm bb spindle, which changes the CL from 47.5 to 50.5, and it all 
>>> works.
>>> 
>>> There is no perfect correlation bwt Q-Factor and CL. In general, mtn cranks 
>>> are for bow-legged cowboys and they have high Q's, but it's easy to design 
>>> and make great mtn cranks with mtn bike CLs and low-Q's (under 163?). The 
>>> mtn crank makers don't generally do that, though, because then their cranks 
>>> won't fit onto lots of expensive and prestigious bikes that have chainstays 
>>> that stick out too far in the wrong spots and so require higher Q-Factors.
>>> 
>>> This doesn't address durability, but it's rare to hear of $40 bb's crapping 
>>> out. Not unheard of, but it's not unheard of at any price, either. We are 
>>> going to stock an ol' cup-and-cone style BB in ass't lengths sometime this 
>>> year. It will cost more and we'll refuse to sell it to -- how do I best say 
>>> this? -- a "newbie with romantic/retro sensibilities but no experience with 
>>> this kind of BB." We certainly won't quit selling the $40 Shimano bbs, 
>>> which are so good. What we will do, when it all happens, is extol the 
>>> theoretical virtues of the old kind...which, given the reliabiliy of the 
>>> new kind, are undeniable, but may not matter.
>>> G
>>> 
 On Wednesday, April 27, 2016 at 1:27:49 PM UTC-7, dstein wrote:
 Why are more expensive bottom brackets more expensive? What do you gain? 
 Is it just durability? Or is there any sort of performance gain (ie, does 
 it roll smoother, faster, etc)?
 
 I've worked on most bike parts now minus the bottom bracket and headset. 
 About to change cranks on my hunqapillar form the Sugino triple (with a 
 107 or 110 bb) to a White Industries Eno (with a 113 bb). Trying to figure 
 out if I go w/ the $40 bb on Riv's site? Or a White Industries or 
 something similar? This bike will see 500-1000 miles a year on dirt and 
 some mud. And support the occasional overnighter.
> 
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[RBW] Re: FS: Double top tube Hillborne, complete bike with Rock and Roads, for Seattle area members

[boomer]

Sold!

Delete post if needed.

On Saturday, April 30, 2016 at 7:19:48 AM UTC-7, boomer wrote:
>
> It's on Craig List in Seattle right now.  If you're in the area and you're 
> interested, I can drop $150 off my asking price or we can come up with a 
> price.  I could also add or remove parts to make a deal.
>  
> Please excuse the double posting on "internet-BOB".
>
> http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/5562934432.html
>
> Thanks for looking.
>

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[RBW] Re: FS : 60cm SimpleOne / Multi-Speedable / Clear Powdercoat F/F/HS/BB/Wheels/Fenders

[S. Greco]

$1200 - including nitto front rack, basket, & crank.


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[RBW] Re: Conversations with Grandma

[Daniel D.]

just admit it, you're lazy :p

>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Talk to me about bottom brackets

[Ron Mc]

Mark, it was a messy ride in a really fun way.  The boardwalk is 1600' 
across a marsh.  The family of mallards that had nested there were all up 
on the boardwalk.  I asked if the water was too wet for them, but they 
didn't answer.  

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[RBW] Re: My 1x8 Clem

[Deacon Patrick]

Uh oh! Sorry about that, Bob. Grin.

I had my first (I think) auto shift to my granny gear (I have a psudo 1x 
set up, with manual shift to a 24 t for bikepacking and really nutty 
hills). The snow and ice built up enough that it shifted (not on the 
grocery run I posted, but the ride before that, where my two oldest and I 
had to duck and cover when the snow plow came, sending enormous slush 
chucks 50' down the bank onto our lil' heads below. talk about extra 
adventure!)).  Any road, I took off for groceries and couldn't figure out 
why I wasn't shifting into my higher gears. Turns out I was, but in my 
granny. So those narrow-wides can let go the chain, but it takes a mighty 
amount of snow or mud to do it.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 12:21:31 PM UTC-6, Bob Ehrenbeck wrote:
>
> Patrick, you should know that the idea of installing a 1x drivetrain came 
> from reading your posts on the subject a while back. So, thanks for the 
> inspiration (and your note)!
>

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[RBW] Re: Mini Front Racks and Canti Brakes

[Bob B]

>
> On my Bombadil with a front mount Mark's rack I tried the CR720's, Sun 
> Tour XC Pro's, and Shimano M730's and MC70's(from 1983).  I the XC Pros 
> were the only low profile, and did not work worth a hill of beansthey 
> need a lower yoke point. 
>

Garth or anyone else: have you tried the low-profile CX70s with a Mini 
Front Rack? This was the setup I was planning for a Hunq I'm building up, 
but when I was poking around old threads here this bit got more a little 
worried. 

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[RBW] Re: Conversations with Grandma

[Brian Campbell]

The worm is the spice, the spice is the worm!. 

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[RBW] Re: Conversations with Grandma

[Deacon Patrick]

Tequila!

On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 1:28:11 PM UTC-6, Brian Campbell wrote:
>
> The worm is the spice, the spice is the worm!. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Talk to me about bottom brackets

[Ron Mc]

Saturday morning I rode 40 mi after a big rain rain - we had 5" the night 
before. There were pretty good clay washes that splashed on the bike, but 
also rode through standing water at one end of a boardwalk and running 
water under some of the road overpasses.  Just hosed it down when I got 
home, and don't worry about the SKF BB.  

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[RBW] Re: OT: carrying fishing poles on a bike

[Leslie]

No pic;   I fly-fish, and the segments of my rods all fit in a smallish 
tube, that I can lash to a saddlebag w/ the outer loops.  I'll try to 
remember to snap a pic sometime.

-L

On Saturday, April 30, 2016 at 8:33:37 PM UTC-4, WETH wrote:
>
> As I recall, a few list members fish.  My question, does anyone have 
> suggestions for carrying poles on their bike?
> The internet showed me some interesting homemade rack attachments using 
> PVC pipe, other folk strap poles to the tI prune like a frame pump, others 
> secure pole to waterbottle cage/ head tube, others take pole apart and put 
> in a backpack.  And, I found this: http://www.bikefisherman.com. 
> Am I missing any other options?
> I am building up a bike for the son of a dear family friend to take to 
> college.  He loves to fish.  When the build is complete, I want to help him 
> devise a way to carry his pole for fishing.  The bike will have a rear rack 
> and front mini rack.  
> Thoughts?
> Thanks,
> Erl

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[RBW] Re: Conversations with Grandma

[Brian Campbell]

Now THAT sounds like my grandma!

On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 3:43:53 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Tequila!
>
> On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 1:28:11 PM UTC-6, Brian Campbell wrote:
>>
>> The worm is the spice, the spice is the worm!. 
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Talk to me about bottom brackets

[Grant Petersen]

Here's one, and forgive my continued warning. I promise you this is not
good old fashioned reverse psychology.

This style emerged because it's simple and it works. It got extinguished in
the late '80s or early '90s NOT because after a hundred or more years some
smart modern mechanic found a flaw that all before him or her had
overlooked, but because they're a minor pita to learn how to adjust.
There's the theory of adjustment, which is simple and is this:

The fixed cup on the drive side goes in with a shop tool, and crank it hard.
Grease the cup and/or the ringed bearings, then place them
balls-facing-outward in the cup.
While your fingers or brush is greasy, you might as well grease the
adjustable/non-drive side cup and bearings, too. While you're at it, get
grease on the cones (bearing surfaces) of the spindle, and heck, great the
belly of the spindle, too. Why not?
Insert the plastic accordion sleeve, which strictly isn't necessary. It's
there to isolate the assembly from water that might leak in from above. But
many cool guys ditch the plastic.
Then insert the spindle with the correct (usually long) side sticking out
the fixed cup.
With the bearings greased and facing outward (from the bike's point of
view, so INTO the left cup), grease the threads on the adjustable/left side
cup and screw it in. You'll need a "pin tool" to complete this job.
Some threads will be sticking out. Put the notched lock ring on those
threads.

The final adjustment takes some skill and time and experience and feel,
which is why nobody uses these as original equiment anymore. It cannot be
done with power tools, and you don't want a first-timer adjusting your bb.
Any conscientious individual can do it just fine, but it'll take many tries
and retries to nail the adjustment, because as you tighten the lockring
against the shell, it has the effect of pulling out (loosening) the
adjustment. So, you get what seems like a perfect adjustment, then you go
to lock it in and it loosens, and it loosens because the adjustable cup
gets pulled outward, away from the bearings.

The skill and feel come in by knowing how too-tight to make it to account
for the loosening, and different bottom brackets and frames will require
different amounts. You sometimes try to hold the adjustable cup's
adjustment with the pin tool as you lock it there with the lockring, but
sometimes tightening the lockring makes the adjustable cup move, anyway.
It's the opposite of Plug-n-Play, but the thing is, it is NOT THAT HARD as
long as you don't require perfection on your first-thru-fourth tries. As a
home mechanic, you need to buy some tools. The fixed cup should be put in
with a shop tool, and new bike shops might not even have those anymore. The
cheap tools are the lockring tool and pin tool, and in the old days you
could get them both for $30 combined, but I don't know what it is these
days, and a normal bike shop won't stock them.

The Tange BB's will be available in a range of dimensions, Eleven caged
balls, not nine. Hard and smooth, best finish. Some details still being
worked on, and we're not the drivers of this project, but have had some
input. There is no ETA on 'em. Strike 2.8!


On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 11:00 AM, Mark Reimer  wrote:

> Nope. You must've missed my comment. Phil wood bearings are for sunny
> California. My Phil BB and hub bearings never last more than a winter. They
> are not suitable for cold and wet climates. And don't get me started on
> their free hubs hah
>
> On May 2, 2016, at 12:48 PM, Brian Campbell 
> wrote:
>
> Phil Wood! ;-)
>
> On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 1:27:48 PM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>
>> Haha! I'm terribly curious how you'll determine who qualifies as a
>> "newbie with romantic/retro sensibilities but no experience with this kind
>> of BB."
>>
>> You know, up till this moment I had zero interest in cup and cone bb's,
>> and never would imagine considering going back to one. maybe that's because
>> I'm not aware of a quality option out there. But given the fact that my
>> environment destroys bearings in every BB I've tried, including Phil Wood,
>> within a season, maybe a cup and cone would be exactly what I need.
>> Self-serviceable with nothing but a couple special wrenches and a tube of
>> grease. Hmmm
>>
>> Say Grant - who will be manufacturing these BB's?
>>
>> On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 8:32:07 PM UTC-5, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>>>
>>> BB spindle length:
>>>
>>> It's always safe and usually best to use the bb the crank maker
>>> recommends, or (more to the point) a dimensional equivalent. I'm not going
>>> to address taper here, just quick notes about length. It comes down to
>>> chainline, which has nothing to do with the chain. Almost everything
>>> anybody could possibly say about CL has already been said by Sheldon on his
>>> site, but I don't remember whether he addressed derailers there, so I will
>>> fast here. Chainline is how far out from the center of 

Re: [RBW] Re: Talk to me about bottom brackets

[Mark Reimer]

Man. I gotta get one of those SKF's soon. That sounds perfect.

On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 2:15 PM, Ron Mc  wrote:

> Saturday morning I rode 40 mi after a big rain rain - we had 5" the night
> before. There were pretty good clay washes that splashed on the bike, but
> also rode through standing water at one end of a boardwalk and running
> water under some of the road overpasses.  Just hosed it down when I got
> home, and don't worry about the SKF BB.
>
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[RBW] Re: Mini Front Racks and Canti Brakes

[Shoji Takahashi]

Hi Bob B:
I have a 48cm Hunqapillar with CX70 cantis and sometimes a Mini Front Rack. 
Brakes work great (and I much prefer CX70 over the Tektro CR720s they 
replaced).
https://www.flickr.com/photos/stakx/23278928000/in/datetaken/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/stakx/14635282251/in/datetaken/

Good luck,
Shoji


On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 3:23:43 PM UTC-4, Bob B wrote:
>
> On my Bombadil with a front mount Mark's rack I tried the CR720's, Sun 
>> Tour XC Pro's, and Shimano M730's and MC70's(from 1983).  I the XC Pros 
>> were the only low profile, and did not work worth a hill of beansthey 
>> need a lower yoke point. 
>>
>
> Garth or anyone else: have you tried the low-profile CX70s with a Mini 
> Front Rack? This was the setup I was planning for a Hunq I'm building up, 
> but when I was poking around old threads here this bit got more a little 
> worried. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Mini Front Racks and Canti Brakes

[David Banzer]

I'm using the same IRD Cafam canti's on my Clem. I took off CR720s and 
installed the IRDs as the CR720s stuck out and interfered with mounting 
front panniers on a Pass & Stow rack.
As an experiment, I left the main brake cable installed in the yoke at the 
same point and just adjusted the straddle cable, so the yoke was at the 
same height for both brakes.
The front brake had noticeably less MA, while the rear felt the same. The 
P rack is mounted with a bolt at the fork crown, and I do have some 
distance to lower the yoke. I may get 2 Nitto struts and nut/bolt 
assemblies for the P rack and mount them to the top of the fork crown on 
the Clem to get the yoke a little lower, though it's certainly works well 
as it is.
Oddly, I put the same CR720s on BMC Monster Cross and they stop noticeably 
better than on the Clem. 
David
Chicago

On Monday, August 22, 2011 at 11:26:59 AM UTC-5, Steve Park wrote:
>
> I have IRD cafams paired with a similar Nitto M12 rack (crown hole 
> mounted).  The IRDs work perfectly, very powerful - my first choice 
> canti brake.  I use a regular hanger and straddle cable instead of the 
> Y-wire that comes with the brakes.   The Y-wire will probably 
> interfere with the rack mount at the crown. 
>
>  
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/27988383@N06/5644352361/in/set-72157623989323883 
>
> CR720s were underwhelming in this same setup. 
> My other bike has an M12 with TRP EuroX brakes.  The EuroX brakes are 
> well made and perform just fine, but I haven't been able to adjust 
> them in a way that gives as much power as the IRDs. 
>
>
>
> On Aug 22, 11:47 am, Ginz  wrote: 
> > Thanks, Minh.  I was wondering if the IRDs might be wide enough to 
> > create the right mechanical advantage.  I guess they are not. I 
> > propose a bracket for the Mark's rack with a big square opening for 
> > the straddle cable. 
> > 
> > Many of the photos on the Rivendell site show the small front racks 
> > with caliper brakes.  The photos with canti brakes simply show a 
> > higher yoke.  I wonder if they are not pickey about the feel at the 
> > lever.  Or, maybe the mtb-style levers have a little less mech 
> > advantage than drop bar levers? 
> > 
> > Canti brakes make my head hurt! 
> > 
> > Ginz

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Re: [RBW] Re: Conversations with Grandma

[Steve Palincsar]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3H6amDbAwlY

On 05/02/2016 03:43 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote:

Tequila!

On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 1:28:11 PM UTC-6, Brian Campbell wrote:

The worm is the spice, the spice is the worm!.




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Re: [RBW] Re: Talk to me about bottom brackets

[Mark Reimer]

Very cool! Yup, that explanation mirrors my personal experience. Couple of
tries till it feels bang-on with the lock ring. Just like adjusting hub
cones, or cage-bearing headsets. That BB looks pretty nice. I'm definitely
up for trying one of these again.

On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 3:37 PM, Grant Petersen  wrote:

> Here's one, and forgive my continued warning. I promise you this is not
> good old fashioned reverse psychology.
>
> This style emerged because it's simple and it works. It got extinguished
> in the late '80s or early '90s NOT because after a hundred or more years
> some smart modern mechanic found a flaw that all before him or her had
> overlooked, but because they're a minor pita to learn how to adjust.
> There's the theory of adjustment, which is simple and is this:
>
> The fixed cup on the drive side goes in with a shop tool, and crank it
> hard.
> Grease the cup and/or the ringed bearings, then place them
> balls-facing-outward in the cup.
> While your fingers or brush is greasy, you might as well grease the
> adjustable/non-drive side cup and bearings, too. While you're at it, get
> grease on the cones (bearing surfaces) of the spindle, and heck, great the
> belly of the spindle, too. Why not?
> Insert the plastic accordion sleeve, which strictly isn't necessary. It's
> there to isolate the assembly from water that might leak in from above. But
> many cool guys ditch the plastic.
> Then insert the spindle with the correct (usually long) side sticking out
> the fixed cup.
> With the bearings greased and facing outward (from the bike's point of
> view, so INTO the left cup), grease the threads on the adjustable/left side
> cup and screw it in. You'll need a "pin tool" to complete this job.
> Some threads will be sticking out. Put the notched lock ring on those
> threads.
>
> The final adjustment takes some skill and time and experience and feel,
> which is why nobody uses these as original equiment anymore. It cannot be
> done with power tools, and you don't want a first-timer adjusting your bb.
> Any conscientious individual can do it just fine, but it'll take many tries
> and retries to nail the adjustment, because as you tighten the lockring
> against the shell, it has the effect of pulling out (loosening) the
> adjustment. So, you get what seems like a perfect adjustment, then you go
> to lock it in and it loosens, and it loosens because the adjustable cup
> gets pulled outward, away from the bearings.
>
> The skill and feel come in by knowing how too-tight to make it to account
> for the loosening, and different bottom brackets and frames will require
> different amounts. You sometimes try to hold the adjustable cup's
> adjustment with the pin tool as you lock it there with the lockring, but
> sometimes tightening the lockring makes the adjustable cup move, anyway.
> It's the opposite of Plug-n-Play, but the thing is, it is NOT THAT HARD as
> long as you don't require perfection on your first-thru-fourth tries. As a
> home mechanic, you need to buy some tools. The fixed cup should be put in
> with a shop tool, and new bike shops might not even have those anymore. The
> cheap tools are the lockring tool and pin tool, and in the old days you
> could get them both for $30 combined, but I don't know what it is these
> days, and a normal bike shop won't stock them.
>
> The Tange BB's will be available in a range of dimensions, Eleven caged
> balls, not nine. Hard and smooth, best finish. Some details still being
> worked on, and we're not the drivers of this project, but have had some
> input. There is no ETA on 'em. Strike 2.8!
>
>
> On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 11:00 AM, Mark Reimer 
> wrote:
>
>> Nope. You must've missed my comment. Phil wood bearings are for sunny
>> California. My Phil BB and hub bearings never last more than a winter. They
>> are not suitable for cold and wet climates. And don't get me started on
>> their free hubs hah
>>
>> On May 2, 2016, at 12:48 PM, Brian Campbell 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Phil Wood! ;-)
>>
>> On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 1:27:48 PM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>>
>>> Haha! I'm terribly curious how you'll determine who qualifies as a
>>> "newbie with romantic/retro sensibilities but no experience with this kind
>>> of BB."
>>>
>>> You know, up till this moment I had zero interest in cup and cone bb's,
>>> and never would imagine considering going back to one. maybe that's because
>>> I'm not aware of a quality option out there. But given the fact that my
>>> environment destroys bearings in every BB I've tried, including Phil Wood,
>>> within a season, maybe a cup and cone would be exactly what I need.
>>> Self-serviceable with nothing but a couple special wrenches and a tube of
>>> grease. Hmmm
>>>
>>> Say Grant - who will be manufacturing these BB's?
>>>
>>> On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 8:32:07 PM UTC-5, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:

 BB spindle length:

 It's always safe and usually 

[RBW] My 1x8 Clem

[Joe Bernard]

That's a really nice build, and there's still plenty of hubbub to go around for 
Clem. I love mine, and there should be more hubbub when I'm done with its 
latest iteration..electric! Has anyone ever added assist to a Riv before? I'm 
guessing no one dared, but I'm going for it. Clem is a great-handling frame, 
and I think will be a good candidate for my outrageous little project. Yours 
will continue to be simpler and lighter ;)

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Re: [RBW] Re: May Day Grocery Run

[Philip Williamson]

Oh, that's cool. Cold. May Day weekend here in CA was summery, and loaded 
with planting roses, pruning trees, murdering bamboo, and bottling cider. 

Philip
www.biketinker.com

On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 2:53:36 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Here's a direct link to the post (sorry, it took me a while to figure out 
> I'd not posted the direct link before):
> https://thegrid.ai/with-abandon/may-day-grocery-run/
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 3:28:30 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> Don't knock the dome, dude. I monetize it as a ground location system for 
>> commercial and military aircraft.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 3:21:03 PM UTC-6, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
>>> Hey, at least I've got hair! (A lot of it.)
>>>
>>> On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 3:18 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:
>>>


 Thought I've trimmed the beard way back because it's Spring (sardonic 
 grin), I did have a thought for you poor smooth-faced folk riding in any 
 form of sleet, snell, corn-snow, mini-hail (I got them all on this wee 
 ride!). The beard removes the sting everywhere but around the eyes. Handy 
 dandy! Grin.

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Conversations with Grandma

[Hugh Smitham]

Yes. Be in the now. Thus time and space expand and you have eternity.

~h

On Friday, April 29, 2016 at 3:21:44 PM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>
> Yep .  . . . I was thinking about Grandma . . . sitting on the porch . 
> .  .and me out for a ride.  No matter where I go . .  . .still as ever she 
> is ever at ease just enjoying the moment.  Every time I'm out riding and 
> the idea pops up to go a little faster, a little harder up this hill , 
> basically "improve where and what I am" . .  .. . I see my Grandma  saying 
> "what are you trying to improve?"  Of course . . . Me , I answer , my ride 
> .  "Oh .  . ..  improve it compared to when and what ?" she asks .  How I'm 
> riding of course, now !  "You are riding right now, are you not ? and since 
> you're riding right now, you don't need to go any faster because now isn't 
> going any where, now is always just where you are and as you are. Now isn't 
> fast and now isn't slow . . . it's always just rightly now . It's not what 
> was and will never be what will be.  No one change it and no one can speed 
> it up, it just kinda is this way." she says . .  . .  Huh .  . . . .   and 
> I have no counter to this .  . . . for she is telling the truth and she 
> knows nothing of a lie.  
>
>Silly Me ! !So it all just goes away to where it never was . . . 
> somewhere else but certainly not now !   And I just go about my merry way 
> .  . . .riding along and smelling the roses :)  
>
>
>Of course, likewise some-times I think Grandma isn't here , that she 
> left some-time long ago never to be seen again.  Yet in my heart I know and 
> hear . .  .it's always now and there's nowhere else to go or be, nothing 
> else to do or say. , She's right where she has always been and will always 
> be . My heart you see .  
>
>
>   That's all , thank you for reading. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Mini Front Racks and Canti Brakes

[Michael Hechmer]

I have the Mark's Rack on my Ram with CPs, Marks rack & Pauls Neos on the 
Trek, and a VO rack with Pauls on the Saluki.  I have also run the M32's 
with Paul's cantis.  Of all the setups the nitto mini rack and Pauls Neo 's 
were far and away the easiest to deal with.Mark's Mini is a fine rack 
but it sits high, and has no easy way to attach to a fender.  Racks that 
attach to mid fork braze-ons look the most elegant, but racks that attach 
to the canti studs give the easiest access to the brakes. Our tandem has 
the Nitto Campees which attach to the brakes & offer optional panier 
attachments may be my most favorite, but perhaps overkill for most people.

Michael

On Monday, August 22, 2011 at 9:54:26 AM UTC-4, Ginz wrote:
>
> Hello All, 
>
> I am curious to hear your experiences with mini front racks such as 
> the Nitto Mini or Mark's Rack and cantilever brakes. 
>
> I currently have Nitto Mini-style rack with a post that mounts through 
> the fork crown.  I'm using Tektro CR720 high profile brakes, older 
> Suntour mtb levers and a Problem Solvers wide yoke.  Having tried a 
> number of different brakes, I found that I needed this exact 
> combination to get the yoke high enough (above the rack post) and 
> simultaneously have enough mechanical advantage. 
>
> I am thinking of setting up a Hunq'a with a Mark's Rack with Paul mtb 
> levers and the Shimano low profile cantis.  Has anyone tried this 
> setup and does raising a standard yoke above the rack post reduce the 
> mechanical advantage too much? 
>
> Any advice is appreciated! 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Conversations with Grandma

[Evan E.]

Some of Garth's posts remind me of the text on Dr. Bronner's liquid soap 
bottles back in the 1980s. "Everything *here!* Fully self supplied! All 
clean. All one! All truth! Dilute dilute dilute OK!"   :) 



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Re: [RBW] Re: Talk to me about bottom brackets

[Brian Campbell]

I think you missed my winky eye emoticon. It was a joke about your Phil 
Wood experience...ahh the interweb

On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 2:00:07 PM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> Nope. You must've missed my comment. Phil wood bearings are for sunny 
> California. My Phil BB and hub bearings never last more than a winter. They 
> are not suitable for cold and wet climates. And don't get me started on 
> their free hubs hah
>
> On May 2, 2016, at 12:48 PM, Brian Campbell  > wrote:
>
> Phil Wood! ;-)
>
> On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 1:27:48 PM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>
>> Haha! I'm terribly curious how you'll determine who qualifies as a 
>> "newbie with romantic/retro sensibilities but no experience with this kind 
>> of BB."
>>
>> You know, up till this moment I had zero interest in cup and cone bb's, 
>> and never would imagine considering going back to one. maybe that's because 
>> I'm not aware of a quality option out there. But given the fact that my 
>> environment destroys bearings in every BB I've tried, including Phil Wood, 
>> within a season, maybe a cup and cone would be exactly what I need. 
>> Self-serviceable with nothing but a couple special wrenches and a tube of 
>> grease. Hmmm 
>>
>> Say Grant - who will be manufacturing these BB's? 
>>
>> On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 8:32:07 PM UTC-5, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>>>
>>> BB spindle length:
>>>
>>> It's always safe and usually best to use the bb the crank maker 
>>> recommends, or (more to the point) a dimensional equivalent. I'm not going 
>>> to address taper here, just quick notes about length. It comes down to 
>>> chainline, which has nothing to do with the chain. Almost everything 
>>> anybody could possibly say about CL has already been said by Sheldon on his 
>>> site, but I don't remember whether he addressed derailers there, so I will 
>>> fast here. Chainline is how far out from the center of the seat tube the 
>>> middle ring on a triple sits, or the midpoint between two rings on a double 
>>> sits. 
>>>
>>> There are two common chainlines, I mean three: 
>>>
>>> 43 or 43.5mm (I forget)--for road doubles
>>> 47.5mm -- for road triples and hybrid-like bikes. 
>>> 50.5 or 51(I forget) -- for mtn bikes
>>>
>>> "For" means "typical," not "the only way." 
>>> But what it means is that mtn bike front derailers can reach farther out 
>>> and can't drag in as close as road front derailers. 
>>>
>>> Example: If you put a Sugino or Silver crank on a 110mm bb spindle, the 
>>> chainline will be 47.5, and an XT or any other mtn front derailer will be 
>>> able to shift to the big ring, but not to the small one. To fix that, you 
>>> put a 113mm bb spindle, which changes the CL from 47.5 to 50.5, and it all 
>>> works.
>>>
>>> There is no perfect correlation bwt Q-Factor and CL. In general, mtn 
>>> cranks are for bow-legged cowboys and they have high Q's, but it's easy to 
>>> design and make great mtn cranks with mtn bike CLs and low-Q's (under 
>>> 163?). The mtn crank makers don't generally do that, though, because then 
>>> their cranks won't fit onto lots of expensive and prestigious bikes that 
>>> have chainstays that stick out too far in the wrong spots and so require 
>>> higher Q-Factors.
>>>
>>> This doesn't address durability, but it's rare to hear of $40 bb's 
>>> crapping out. Not unheard of, but it's not unheard of at any price, either. 
>>> We are going to stock an ol' cup-and-cone style BB in ass't lengths 
>>> sometime this year. It will cost more and we'll refuse to sell it to -- how 
>>> do I best say this? -- a "newbie with romantic/retro sensibilities but no 
>>> experience with this kind of BB." We certainly won't quit selling the $40 
>>> Shimano bbs, which are so good. What we will do, when it all happens, is 
>>> extol the theoretical virtues of the old kind...which, given the reliabiliy 
>>> of the new kind, are undeniable, but may not matter.
>>> G
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, April 27, 2016 at 1:27:49 PM UTC-7, dstein wrote:

 Why are more expensive bottom brackets more expensive? What do you 
 gain? Is it just durability? Or is there any sort of performance gain (ie, 
 does it roll smoother, faster, etc)?

 I've worked on most bike parts now minus the bottom bracket and 
 headset. About to change cranks on my hunqapillar form the Sugino triple 
 (with a 107 or 110 bb) to a White Industries Eno (with a 113 bb). Trying 
 to 
 figure out if I go w/ the $40 bb on Riv's site? Or a White Industries or 
 something similar? This bike will see 500-1000 miles a year on dirt and 
 some mud. And support the occasional overnighter.

>>> -- 
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[RBW] Mixte Frames & Drop Bars Question

[Michael Hechmer]

After listening to my daughter's many admiring comments about her Mother's 
Betty, I engaged her in a bike conversation.  Of course the Betty is 
amongst the most beautiful production bikes ever made, but it turns out 
that the real attraction was the step through feature.  For the last two 
years most of her riding has included our grandson on the rear seat.  This 
year he has graduated to a tag-a-long and she has sold her car, so lots of 
riding around town, to & from work, etc. A step throug makes a lotta sense 
for her. So in a fit of generosity I offered to buy her a new frame.  Then 
it turns out that she is not ready to let go of her drop bars.  She thinks 
they give her more power but I suspect that her entire (25 year) biking 
experience has been on either a classic Bianchi/Campy racing bike and  a 
SOMA Dbl Cross leads her to like what she knows.

It turns out she is right between Riv's small & medium size and so we have 
wondered if the smaller size could be matched to drop bars for her.  Have 
any of you tried to use a Betty, Cheviot, or Clementine with drop bars?

michael

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Re: [RBW] Talk to me about bottom brackets

[René Sterental]

Thanks for the explanation on CL, derailers and Q factor Grant. Quite
helpful.

I'm one of those who doesn't qualify for that "old-school" BB, not yet
anyway... :-)

René

On Monday, May 2, 2016, Mark Reimer  wrote:

> Ah...whoops. Yup, sometimes things get lost in translation. Gotcha... ;-)
>
> On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 4:53 PM, Brian Campbell  > wrote:
>
>> I think you missed my winky eye emoticon. It was a joke about your Phil
>> Wood experience...ahh the interweb
>>
>> On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 2:00:07 PM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>>
>>> Nope. You must've missed my comment. Phil wood bearings are for sunny
>>> California. My Phil BB and hub bearings never last more than a winter. They
>>> are not suitable for cold and wet climates. And don't get me started on
>>> their free hubs hah
>>>
>>> On May 2, 2016, at 12:48 PM, Brian Campbell  wrote:
>>>
>>> Phil Wood! ;-)
>>>
>>> On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 1:27:48 PM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote:

 Haha! I'm terribly curious how you'll determine who qualifies as a
 "newbie with romantic/retro sensibilities but no experience with this kind
 of BB."

 You know, up till this moment I had zero interest in cup and cone bb's,
 and never would imagine considering going back to one. maybe that's because
 I'm not aware of a quality option out there. But given the fact that my
 environment destroys bearings in every BB I've tried, including Phil Wood,
 within a season, maybe a cup and cone would be exactly what I need.
 Self-serviceable with nothing but a couple special wrenches and a tube of
 grease. Hmmm

 Say Grant - who will be manufacturing these BB's?

 On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 8:32:07 PM UTC-5, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>
> BB spindle length:
>
> It's always safe and usually best to use the bb the crank maker
> recommends, or (more to the point) a dimensional equivalent. I'm not going
> to address taper here, just quick notes about length. It comes down to
> chainline, which has nothing to do with the chain. Almost everything
> anybody could possibly say about CL has already been said by Sheldon on 
> his
> site, but I don't remember whether he addressed derailers there, so I will
> fast here. Chainline is how far out from the center of the seat tube the
> middle ring on a triple sits, or the midpoint between two rings on a 
> double
> sits.
>
> There are two common chainlines, I mean three:
>
> 43 or 43.5mm (I forget)--for road doubles
> 47.5mm -- for road triples and hybrid-like bikes.
> 50.5 or 51(I forget) -- for mtn bikes
>
> "For" means "typical," not "the only way."
> But what it means is that mtn bike front derailers can reach farther
> out and can't drag in as close as road front derailers.
>
> Example: If you put a Sugino or Silver crank on a 110mm bb spindle,
> the chainline will be 47.5, and an XT or any other mtn front derailer will
> be able to shift to the big ring, but not to the small one. To fix that,
> you put a 113mm bb spindle, which changes the CL from 47.5 to 50.5, and it
> all works.
>
> There is no perfect correlation bwt Q-Factor and CL. In general, mtn
> cranks are for bow-legged cowboys and they have high Q's, but it's easy to
> design and make great mtn cranks with mtn bike CLs and low-Q's (under
> 163?). The mtn crank makers don't generally do that, though, because then
> their cranks won't fit onto lots of expensive and prestigious bikes that
> have chainstays that stick out too far in the wrong spots and so require
> higher Q-Factors.
>
> This doesn't address durability, but it's rare to hear of $40 bb's
> crapping out. Not unheard of, but it's not unheard of at any price, 
> either.
> We are going to stock an ol' cup-and-cone style BB in ass't lengths
> sometime this year. It will cost more and we'll refuse to sell it to -- 
> how
> do I best say this? -- a "newbie with romantic/retro sensibilities but no
> experience with this kind of BB." We certainly won't quit selling the $40
> Shimano bbs, which are so good. What we will do, when it all happens, is
> extol the theoretical virtues of the old kind...which, given the 
> reliabiliy
> of the new kind, are undeniable, but may not matter.
> G
>
> On Wednesday, April 27, 2016 at 1:27:49 PM UTC-7, dstein wrote:
>>
>> Why are more expensive bottom brackets more expensive? What do you
>> gain? Is it just durability? Or is there any sort of performance gain 
>> (ie,
>> does it roll smoother, faster, etc)?
>>
>> I've worked on most bike parts now minus the bottom bracket and
>> headset. About to change cranks on my hunqapillar form the Sugino triple
>> 

Re: [RBW] Re: Talk to me about bottom brackets

[Mark Reimer]

Ah...whoops. Yup, sometimes things get lost in translation. Gotcha... ;-)

On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 4:53 PM, Brian Campbell 
wrote:

> I think you missed my winky eye emoticon. It was a joke about your Phil
> Wood experience...ahh the interweb
>
> On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 2:00:07 PM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>
>> Nope. You must've missed my comment. Phil wood bearings are for sunny
>> California. My Phil BB and hub bearings never last more than a winter. They
>> are not suitable for cold and wet climates. And don't get me started on
>> their free hubs hah
>>
>> On May 2, 2016, at 12:48 PM, Brian Campbell  wrote:
>>
>> Phil Wood! ;-)
>>
>> On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 1:27:48 PM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>>
>>> Haha! I'm terribly curious how you'll determine who qualifies as a
>>> "newbie with romantic/retro sensibilities but no experience with this kind
>>> of BB."
>>>
>>> You know, up till this moment I had zero interest in cup and cone bb's,
>>> and never would imagine considering going back to one. maybe that's because
>>> I'm not aware of a quality option out there. But given the fact that my
>>> environment destroys bearings in every BB I've tried, including Phil Wood,
>>> within a season, maybe a cup and cone would be exactly what I need.
>>> Self-serviceable with nothing but a couple special wrenches and a tube of
>>> grease. Hmmm
>>>
>>> Say Grant - who will be manufacturing these BB's?
>>>
>>> On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 8:32:07 PM UTC-5, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:

 BB spindle length:

 It's always safe and usually best to use the bb the crank maker
 recommends, or (more to the point) a dimensional equivalent. I'm not going
 to address taper here, just quick notes about length. It comes down to
 chainline, which has nothing to do with the chain. Almost everything
 anybody could possibly say about CL has already been said by Sheldon on his
 site, but I don't remember whether he addressed derailers there, so I will
 fast here. Chainline is how far out from the center of the seat tube the
 middle ring on a triple sits, or the midpoint between two rings on a double
 sits.

 There are two common chainlines, I mean three:

 43 or 43.5mm (I forget)--for road doubles
 47.5mm -- for road triples and hybrid-like bikes.
 50.5 or 51(I forget) -- for mtn bikes

 "For" means "typical," not "the only way."
 But what it means is that mtn bike front derailers can reach farther
 out and can't drag in as close as road front derailers.

 Example: If you put a Sugino or Silver crank on a 110mm bb spindle, the
 chainline will be 47.5, and an XT or any other mtn front derailer will be
 able to shift to the big ring, but not to the small one. To fix that, you
 put a 113mm bb spindle, which changes the CL from 47.5 to 50.5, and it all
 works.

 There is no perfect correlation bwt Q-Factor and CL. In general, mtn
 cranks are for bow-legged cowboys and they have high Q's, but it's easy to
 design and make great mtn cranks with mtn bike CLs and low-Q's (under
 163?). The mtn crank makers don't generally do that, though, because then
 their cranks won't fit onto lots of expensive and prestigious bikes that
 have chainstays that stick out too far in the wrong spots and so require
 higher Q-Factors.

 This doesn't address durability, but it's rare to hear of $40 bb's
 crapping out. Not unheard of, but it's not unheard of at any price, either.
 We are going to stock an ol' cup-and-cone style BB in ass't lengths
 sometime this year. It will cost more and we'll refuse to sell it to -- how
 do I best say this? -- a "newbie with romantic/retro sensibilities but no
 experience with this kind of BB." We certainly won't quit selling the $40
 Shimano bbs, which are so good. What we will do, when it all happens, is
 extol the theoretical virtues of the old kind...which, given the reliabiliy
 of the new kind, are undeniable, but may not matter.
 G

 On Wednesday, April 27, 2016 at 1:27:49 PM UTC-7, dstein wrote:
>
> Why are more expensive bottom brackets more expensive? What do you
> gain? Is it just durability? Or is there any sort of performance gain (ie,
> does it roll smoother, faster, etc)?
>
> I've worked on most bike parts now minus the bottom bracket and
> headset. About to change cranks on my hunqapillar form the Sugino triple
> (with a 107 or 110 bb) to a White Industries Eno (with a 113 bb). Trying 
> to
> figure out if I go w/ the $40 bb on Riv's site? Or a White Industries or
> something similar? This bike will see 500-1000 miles a year on dirt and
> some mud. And support the occasional overnighter.
>
 --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the
>> Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To 

[RBW] My (f)Atlantis in the new Bunyan Velo

[Mark Reimer]

Hello friends,

Just wanted to share that I've got an article in the new Bunyan Velo 
magazine, sort of an 'introduction to winter s24o-ing'. 

You can read it online for free here:

https://issuu.com/bunyanvelo/docs/bunyan-velo-issue-06

Sort of funny timing given that it's spring and I got my first sunburn 
yesterday while riding home on a hot s24o in shorts and a t-shirt, but 
that's how it goes!

Hope you enjoy, and please share with your friends. This is a small 
operation, almost entirely volunteer-driven. 

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[RBW] Re: Conversations with Grandma

[Garth]

  Why Yes Daniel .  . . .  Here is pretty darn lazy indeed !   
Ahahahaahahahahahaahahah !  !  


On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 3:23:30 PM UTC-4, Daniel D. wrote:
>
> just admit it, you're lazy :p
>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] How do you like your first step-through bike?

[Daniel D.]

Sheldon says no to both of us.


The Cowboy Mount is popular among cyclists who learned to ride on a bicycle 
that was too large for them. This dubious technique involves standing next 
to the bike, putting one foot on a pedal, then swinging the other leg over 
the saddle while the bicycle is in motion.

The cowboy mount places the rider's weight on the bicycle while it is 
leaning over at a sharp angle. This puts considerable lateral stress on the 
frame and the wheels. Bicycle wheels, in particular, are not designed to 
withstand serious sideways stresses, and this poor mounting technique is 
very hard on your wheels.

On Tuesday, April 26, 2016 at 9:57:29 PM UTC-7, Olof Stroh wrote:
>
> Lunginsam - whoever that is - wrote: 
>
> "My wife used to do this cool way of mounting by: 
> 1. L foot on L pedal. 
> 2. Stand on pedal and kick off with R foot on non-drive side, while body 
> is on non-drive side. 
> 3. Slowly raise right leg straight back like doing ballet and swing over 
> rear of bike and sit on saddle while planting R foot on R pedal. 
> I think she used to reverse for dismounting." 
>
> Your wife´s way is the most comfortable way there is for your joints, I 
> have never understood why people do it any other way. Unless of course if 
> you hav a kid back there, then a good mixte with long stays is appropriate. 
>
> Cheers 
>
> Olof Stroh 
> Uppsala Sweden 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: My (f)Atlantis in the new Bunyan Velo

[Deacon Patrick]

Sweet!

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 2:58:45 PM UTC-6, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> Hello friends,
>
> Just wanted to share that I've got an article in the new Bunyan Velo 
> magazine, sort of an 'introduction to winter s24o-ing'. 
>
> You can read it online for free here:
>
> https://issuu.com/bunyanvelo/docs/bunyan-velo-issue-06
>
> Sort of funny timing given that it's spring and I got my first sunburn 
> yesterday while riding home on a hot s24o in shorts and a t-shirt, but 
> that's how it goes!
>
> Hope you enjoy, and please share with your friends. This is a small 
> operation, almost entirely volunteer-driven. 
>

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[RBW] Re: My (f)Atlantis in the new Bunyan Velo

['Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch]

What an amazing magazine!!!I was pointed to that publication several 
years ago but looked at it only briefly and then completely forgot about 
it.  I've got some serious reading (and dreaming) to do!  


A (F)Atlantis is definately  one of my Grail Bikes!!!  



On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 3:58:45 PM UTC-5, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> Hello friends,
>
> Just wanted to share that I've got an article in the new Bunyan Velo 
> magazine, sort of an 'introduction to winter s24o-ing'. 
>
> You can read it online for free here:
>
> https://issuu.com/bunyanvelo/docs/bunyan-velo-issue-06
>
> Sort of funny timing given that it's spring and I got my first sunburn 
> yesterday while riding home on a hot s24o in shorts and a t-shirt, but 
> that's how it goes!
>
> Hope you enjoy, and please share with your friends. This is a small 
> operation, almost entirely volunteer-driven. 
>

-- 
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[RBW] Re: My 1x8 Clem

[Joe Bernard]

I love the guy in the manhole, and the legend "a tough bike to love". I'm a 
huge fan of Riv's graphics, and this (and the upcoming Rosco) are my favorite 
since Bleriot in his biplane. 

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Re: [RBW] Always heard this about latex tubes

[Ron Mc]

Hi Rene, 
Challenge makes a large cross/gravel size - best online price is Outside 
Outfiters.  I just received two in the mail from there today - I keep these 
stocked.  
Price is about the same as Schwalbe Ultralight.  The difference is 
vulcanized butyl v. super-elastic latex.  
Wiggle for some reason can't sell them to the US - probably an agreement 
with Challenge and whoever imports them to the US.  
One thing I really like about them is patching.  Keep an old tube, cut a 
piece, glue it over the hole with tubie mastic - squeeze it with something 
overnight (carry a spare new tube for roadside).  
The patch is permanent and the even stretches, unlike hard patches for 
butyl tubes.  
Vittoria makes road sizes (28mm) and Wiggle has a good price on these.  
They all have slick valve stems (and removable cores), and I put o-rings 
over the stems thinking it helps with shock and vibration.  



maybe ti does nothing, but I will keep doing it, because I like it (one 
package of o-rings, which I bought for something else lasts forever).  

Michelin also makeslatex tubes - never tried them.  
I'll make the argument that latex rides better than tubeless, but notably 
better than butyl.  
All kind of arguments that it runs cooler and faster than butyl - no 
question it feels different - it feels softer and faster.  
Downside is you have to pump them - every day when you ride, and at least 
once/week when you don't.  
If you ever cut open one of your butyl tubes, water will pour out that has 
collected from your pump.  If you cut open a latex tube, it will be dry, 
because water evaporates through them.  
(I run latex in every bike except my daughter's upright with 42mm Soma SV - 
I run Schwalbe Ultralight in those, so I don't have to pump them every 
week).  
I actually carry a mix of spares, butyl and latex.  Latex can sometimes be 
hard to avoid a pinch, because it is so crazy stretchy.  Sometimes on the 
side of the road I'll install butyl to get home.  
Next time that tires comes off, though, latex is going back on.  
Regards

On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 7:03:44 PM UTC-5, René wrote:
>
> Who makes latex tubes? And how do they compare to the Schwalbe ultralight 
> tubes?
>
>
>>

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[RBW] My (f)Atlantis in the new Bunyan Velo

[WETH]

Mark,
That is one of my favorite publications-great writing and gorgeous photographs. 
 Your contribution fit right in.
Congratulations and thanks for sharing.  Now that winter is over where I live, 
I don't mind reading about it!
Erl

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Re: [RBW] Talk to me about bottom brackets

[R Shannon]

That Tange BB is a stunning pieces of hardware! I'd be tempted to try it
just for the experience. Grant, thank you for the info and preview.

Richard

On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 7:38 PM, René Sterental  wrote:

> Thanks for the explanation on CL, derailers and Q factor Grant. Quite
> helpful.
>
> I'm one of those who doesn't qualify for that "old-school" BB, not yet
> anyway... :-)
>
> René
>
>
> On Monday, May 2, 2016, Mark Reimer  wrote:
>
>> Ah...whoops. Yup, sometimes things get lost in translation. Gotcha... ;-)
>>
>> On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 4:53 PM, Brian Campbell 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I think you missed my winky eye emoticon. It was a joke about your Phil
>>> Wood experience...ahh the interweb
>>>
>>> On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 2:00:07 PM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote:

 Nope. You must've missed my comment. Phil wood bearings are for sunny
 California. My Phil BB and hub bearings never last more than a winter. They
 are not suitable for cold and wet climates. And don't get me started on
 their free hubs hah

 On May 2, 2016, at 12:48 PM, Brian Campbell 
 wrote:

 Phil Wood! ;-)

 On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 1:27:48 PM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> Haha! I'm terribly curious how you'll determine who qualifies as a
> "newbie with romantic/retro sensibilities but no experience with this kind
> of BB."
>
> You know, up till this moment I had zero interest in cup and cone
> bb's, and never would imagine considering going back to one. maybe that's
> because I'm not aware of a quality option out there. But given the fact
> that my environment destroys bearings in every BB I've tried, including
> Phil Wood, within a season, maybe a cup and cone would be exactly what I
> need. Self-serviceable with nothing but a couple special wrenches and a
> tube of grease. Hmmm
>
> Say Grant - who will be manufacturing these BB's?
>
> On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 8:32:07 PM UTC-5, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>>
>> BB spindle length:
>>
>> It's always safe and usually best to use the bb the crank maker
>> recommends, or (more to the point) a dimensional equivalent. I'm not 
>> going
>> to address taper here, just quick notes about length. It comes down to
>> chainline, which has nothing to do with the chain. Almost everything
>> anybody could possibly say about CL has already been said by Sheldon on 
>> his
>> site, but I don't remember whether he addressed derailers there, so I 
>> will
>> fast here. Chainline is how far out from the center of the seat tube the
>> middle ring on a triple sits, or the midpoint between two rings on a 
>> double
>> sits.
>>
>> There are two common chainlines, I mean three:
>>
>> 43 or 43.5mm (I forget)--for road doubles
>> 47.5mm -- for road triples and hybrid-like bikes.
>> 50.5 or 51(I forget) -- for mtn bikes
>>
>> "For" means "typical," not "the only way."
>> But what it means is that mtn bike front derailers can reach farther
>> out and can't drag in as close as road front derailers.
>>
>> Example: If you put a Sugino or Silver crank on a 110mm bb spindle,
>> the chainline will be 47.5, and an XT or any other mtn front derailer 
>> will
>> be able to shift to the big ring, but not to the small one. To fix that,
>> you put a 113mm bb spindle, which changes the CL from 47.5 to 50.5, and 
>> it
>> all works.
>>
>> There is no perfect correlation bwt Q-Factor and CL. In general, mtn
>> cranks are for bow-legged cowboys and they have high Q's, but it's easy 
>> to
>> design and make great mtn cranks with mtn bike CLs and low-Q's (under
>> 163?). The mtn crank makers don't generally do that, though, because then
>> their cranks won't fit onto lots of expensive and prestigious bikes that
>> have chainstays that stick out too far in the wrong spots and so require
>> higher Q-Factors.
>>
>> This doesn't address durability, but it's rare to hear of $40 bb's
>> crapping out. Not unheard of, but it's not unheard of at any price, 
>> either.
>> We are going to stock an ol' cup-and-cone style BB in ass't lengths
>> sometime this year. It will cost more and we'll refuse to sell it to -- 
>> how
>> do I best say this? -- a "newbie with romantic/retro sensibilities but no
>> experience with this kind of BB." We certainly won't quit selling the $40
>> Shimano bbs, which are so good. What we will do, when it all happens, is
>> extol the theoretical virtues of the old kind...which, given the 
>> reliabiliy
>> of the new kind, are undeniable, but may not matter.
>> G
>>
>> On Wednesday, April 27, 2016 at 1:27:49 PM UTC-7, dstein wrote:
>>>
>>> Why are more expensive bottom brackets 

[RBW] Re: [BOB] Re: ISO: 32 hole Sturmey Archer S3X hub, later model

[bertin753]

Ia agree, the TF would be just right, but I'm happy to get the S3X.

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 2, 2016, at 6:00 PM, Scott G.  wrote:
> 
> Sturmey brought back the wrong hub, too much lash.
> 
> Next time bring back the TF, two speed hub, direct drive and -25%.
> Oil bath please. Fun fact, old Sturmeys used 12 spline cogs, with a lock ring,
> same lock ring as used on track bikes today.
> 
> 
> A Rohloff built AM would be a thing of beauty.
> 
> Tin Cans shall return!
> 
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[RBW] Re: My 1x8 Clem

[iamkeith]

Looks fantastic, Bob.   I agree with the thought that the  Bosco bars would 
work better with more angle.  I have some of the non-bullmoose version, and 
they automatically ended up that way.   Still - your bike looks so perfect, 
I wouldn't change anything.   If you don't mind me asking, what is your 
saddle height?  That too looks just right and perfectly proportioned for 
the  bike.

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[RBW] Re: OT: carrying fishing poles on a bike

['Clayton' via RBW Owners Bunch]

My
 
solution. I actually caught a rainbow with my Tenkara rod while 
bikepacking. Surprised me! Usually I use the fishing pole to just stand 
there and enjoy the environment, as I never caught anything with it 
before...The Tenkara rod bag is the one with the antler button. 

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[RBW] Re: My 1x8 Clem

[Ron Mc]

great job - love the Carsick panniers. 

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[RBW] Re: My 1x8 Clem

[WETH]

Bob,
That is a fabulous looking bike.  I have been wanting to experiment with 
1x8 and your set up is exactly what I have concluded would work best for 
me, including the 34t Wolf Drop.  I look forward to reading your further 
thoughts on your 1x8 setup.  
How do you like the Shutter Precision SV-8 dynamo? Have you used other 
dynamo hubs to which you could compare it?
Thanks for sharing the photos and the specs. That is a great bike.
Erl

On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 9:53:12 PM UTC-4, Bob Ehrenbeck wrote:
>
> I know the Joe Appaloosas seem to be all the rage right now — not to 
> mention all the hubbub with the Hubbuhubbuh and the Rosco Bubbe — but I 
> thought I’d share details and impressions of my recent Clem build.
>
>
> 
>
> This bike will be used mainly for local transportation, running errands, 
> and various on- and off-road exploration — in other words, your basic 
> utility bike. While I’ve purchased quite a few parts, accessories, and 
> miscellaneous non-bike stuff from Rivendell over the past few years — plus, 
> I eat bacon/don’t jog and just ride :) — this is my first experience with 
> an actual Rivendell frame.
>
> I went for a minimalistic and utilitarian drivetrain with this one: a 
> single narrow-wide chainring up front and an 8-speed cassette in the rear, 
> friction shifted via a handlebar-mounted thumbie. Here are the build specs:
>
>- Frameset: Clem Smith Jr., 52-cm
>- Headset, BB, and seatpost: Included with frame
>- Crankset: Sugino XD2
>- Chainring: Wolf Tooth Drop-Stop, 110 BCD, 34T
>- Cassette: Shimano, 8-speed, 11-34T
>- Rear derailleur: Shimano XT 780
>- Shifter: Sunrace One-At-a-Time thumbie
>- Chain: SRAM PG870 8-speed
>- Pedals: VP VP-001 Thin Gripsters
>- Front hub: Shutter Precision SV-8 dynamo
>- Rear hub: Shimano XT T780
>- Rims: Grand Bois, 32h
>- Spokes/nipples: Wheelsmith DB14
>- Tires: Schwalbe Big Ben Race Guard, 650B x 48
>- Handlebar: Nitto Bullmoose Bosco, Cromo Dullbrite 54cm
>- Brake levers: Shimano T610
>- Brakes: Avid Single Digit 7 V-brakes
>- Saddle: Brooks B-17
>- Headlight: Busch and Muller Lumotec IQ Premium Cyo
>- Taillight: Busch and Muller Toplight dyno
>- Rack: Pletscher Clem, with pannier rails and pump
>
>
> Some initial thoughts:
>
>- 
>
>Despite this being Rivendell’s “budget” bike, I’m really impressed 
>with the build quality of the frame. The lugwork at the seat cluster and 
>fork crown is beautiful, and the fork itself has an elegant little bend to 
>it. The paint job is just gorgeous, and the cream-painted lug windows and 
>fork-crown top are a nice touch. I also appreciate that the frame has 
>plenty of clearance to run wide tires, and it’s got lots of mounting 
> points 
>for fenders, racks, lights, etc.
>- 
>
>It’s a big bike. Of course it’s the long top tube and chainstays, and 
>the wingspan and rise of the Bullmoose Bosco handlebar add to the effect 
>(not to mention the chain needing a few more links over what’s in a 
>standard package). But it’s that long wheelbase — along with 48-mm (actual 
>width is 45 mm) tires — that makes for a plush and comfortable ride. It 
>also has a nice, stable feeling to it — it just goes where I want it to go 
>in a well-balanced manner. And that long wheelbase also keeps my heels 
> away 
>from rear panniers.
>
>
>- 
>
>I’m not entirely sold on the Bullmoose Bosco handlebar. I love the 
>looks, and it provides for a nice upright position and great visibility 
> for 
>the dense and trafficky area I usually ride in, but I find that my wrists 
>are not in an ideal position. It’s not a deal-breaker, but I wish I could 
>rotate the bar downward just a tad.
>- 
>
>I really like the Sunrace shifters. I’ve read that some haven’t been 
>too happy with them, but mine work flawlessly; I haven’t had any ghost 
>shifting or any other problems. Because of interference with the brake 
>lever clamping bolt, I had to rotate the shifter to the top of the bar 
> (and 
>away from Rivendell’s usual method of mounting them), but it’s still 
> easily 
>accessible with my thumb.
>- 
>
>The 1x8 drivetrain works really well, and I love the simplicity of the 
>set-up. The 34-tooth chainring with the 11-34t cassette gives me a range 
> of 
>26-81 gear inches, which is just right for the terrain I deal with and 
> what 
>I use the bike for, and the narrow-wide chainring does what it’s supposed 
>to do — while I haven’t gone over really rough terrain yet, and I’m 
> running 
>only an 8-speed cassette, I have yet to drop a chain.
>
> All in all, I’m very happy with this bike, and I’m glad I took the leap of 
> faith last year to jump on the 

[RBW] Re: FS: 60 cm Quickbeam ffhsbb $740

[Philip Williamson]

Do you have any pictures? I'm not going to buy it (even though I want its), 
but I always like to see pictures of Quickbeams, and I'd like to see how an 
orange one looks without the downtube stickers. 

Philip
www.biketinker.com

On Wednesday, April 27, 2016 at 2:37:59 PM UTC-7, Conway Bennett wrote:
>
> So I bought an orange 60 cm QB at the end of summer '14 from the original 
> owner and I love it.  But,  it fits "riv big" and after riding for a while 
> I told myself that if a 58 ever came up for sale I'd snatch it up.  It did 
> so I did so my gain is your gain.  The bike has lots of beausage but no 
> dents or rust.  The decals had been removed by the original owner as well 
> so it's stealth city bike.  $700+$40 for bikeflights.com.
>
> FW,
>
> CCB
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Mixte Frames & Drop Bars Question

[René Sterental]

Just in case, the 5cm Nitto stem might actually be the ticket to drop bars
on a Betty, whichever frame fits her better.

On Monday, May 2, 2016, Michael Hechmer  wrote:

> After listening to my daughter's many admiring comments about her Mother's
> Betty, I engaged her in a bike conversation.  Of course the Betty is
> amongst the most beautiful production bikes ever made, but it turns out
> that the real attraction was the step through feature.  For the last two
> years most of her riding has included our grandson on the rear seat.  This
> year he has graduated to a tag-a-long and she has sold her car, so lots of
> riding around town, to & from work, etc. A step throug makes a lotta sense
> for her. So in a fit of generosity I offered to buy her a new frame.  Then
> it turns out that she is not ready to let go of her drop bars.  She thinks
> they give her more power but I suspect that her entire (25 year) biking
> experience has been on either a classic Bianchi/Campy racing bike and  a
> SOMA Dbl Cross leads her to like what she knows.
>
> It turns out she is right between Riv's small & medium size and so we have
> wondered if the smaller size could be matched to drop bars for her.  Have
> any of you tried to use a Betty, Cheviot, or Clementine with drop bars?
>
> michael
>
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[RBW] Re: ISO: 32 hole Sturmey Archer S3X hub, later model

[Scott G.]

Sturmey brought back the wrong hub, too much lash.

Next time bring back the TF, two speed hub, direct drive and -25%.
Oil bath please. Fun fact, old Sturmeys used 12 spline cogs, with a lock 
ring,
same lock ring as used on track bikes today.


A Rohloff built AM would be a thing of beauty.

Tin Cans shall return!

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Re: [RBW] Always heard this about latex tubes

[René Sterental]

Who makes latex tubes? And how do they compare to the Schwalbe ultralight
tubes?

On Saturday, April 30, 2016, Sofia Torres  wrote:

> YUP.
>
> I've had a latex CX tube survive after my tire was punctured by the
> largest thorn I've ever seen (about 1" long and very very sharp but
> stubby.) I did pull it out right away because it was a noticeable bump as
> the wheel turned. Tube was fine. I kept the thorn as a keepsake.
>
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[RBW] Re: Mixte Frames & Drop Bars Question

[Sky Coulter]

My wife is 5'4" and rides a 52cm betty with drops - she wanted drops over 
the albatross bars I originally put on. She's super comfortable on it. Her 
only complaint is maybe wanting the bars a little lower than they are.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/140959259@N03/25082314184/in/dateposted-public/

Sky in new west

On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 4:35:16 PM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> After listening to my daughter's many admiring comments about her Mother's 
> Betty, I engaged her in a bike conversation.  Of course the Betty is 
> amongst the most beautiful production bikes ever made, but it turns out 
> that the real attraction was the step through feature.  For the last two 
> years most of her riding has included our grandson on the rear seat.  This 
> year he has graduated to a tag-a-long and she has sold her car, so lots of 
> riding around town, to & from work, etc. A step throug makes a lotta sense 
> for her. So in a fit of generosity I offered to buy her a new frame.  Then 
> it turns out that she is not ready to let go of her drop bars.  She thinks 
> they give her more power but I suspect that her entire (25 year) biking 
> experience has been on either a classic Bianchi/Campy racing bike and  a 
> SOMA Dbl Cross leads her to like what she knows.
>
> It turns out she is right between Riv's small & medium size and so we have 
> wondered if the smaller size could be matched to drop bars for her.  Have 
> any of you tried to use a Betty, Cheviot, or Clementine with drop bars?
>
> michael
>

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[RBW] Bullmoose on a Sam Hillborne

[Chris Birkenmaier]

Hi all.  New(er) member but I have been a lurker for some time now.  The 
title kind of says it all.  I have an orange SH on order - frame only - 
that is coming in as we speak per the website.  I was thinking of putting a 
bullmoose handlebar/stem combo on it.  I've googled for images of a Sam 
with a bullmoose and have come up empty.  I have other bikes that have 
similar shapes to the bar such as the Noah's Arc bar and a Seven custom (17 
degrees) that I enjoy every much.  Has anyone run this combo or is there 
some reason why I should not?  Your thoughts appreciated.  oh - my riding 
is really for fun and fitness on gravel and paved trails and back paved 
roads so nothing too wild.  thanks!

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[RBW] Re: My 1x8 Clem

[Chris Birkenmaier]

On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 9:53:12 PM UTC-4, Bob Ehrenbeck wrote:
>
> I know the Joe Appaloosas seem to be all the rage right now — not to 
> mention all the hubbub with the Hubbuhubbuh and the Rosco Bubbe — but I 
> thought I’d share details and impressions of my recent Clem build.
>
>
> 
>
> This bike will be used mainly for local transportation, running errands, 
> and various on- and off-road exploration — in other words, your basic 
> utility bike. While I’ve purchased quite a few parts, accessories, and 
> miscellaneous non-bike stuff from Rivendell over the past few years — plus, 
> I eat bacon/don’t jog and just ride :) — this is my first experience with 
> an actual Rivendell frame.
>
> I went for a minimalistic and utilitarian drivetrain with this one: a 
> single narrow-wide chainring up front and an 8-speed cassette in the rear, 
> friction shifted via a handlebar-mounted thumbie. Here are the build specs:
>
>- Frameset: Clem Smith Jr., 52-cm
>- Headset, BB, and seatpost: Included with frame
>- Crankset: Sugino XD2
>- Chainring: Wolf Tooth Drop-Stop, 110 BCD, 34T
>- Cassette: Shimano, 8-speed, 11-34T
>- Rear derailleur: Shimano XT 780
>- Shifter: Sunrace One-At-a-Time thumbie
>- Chain: SRAM PG870 8-speed
>- Pedals: VP VP-001 Thin Gripsters
>- Front hub: Shutter Precision SV-8 dynamo
>- Rear hub: Shimano XT T780
>- Rims: Grand Bois, 32h
>- Spokes/nipples: Wheelsmith DB14
>- Tires: Schwalbe Big Ben Race Guard, 650B x 48
>- Handlebar: Nitto Bullmoose Bosco, Cromo Dullbrite 54cm
>- Brake levers: Shimano T610
>- Brakes: Avid Single Digit 7 V-brakes
>- Saddle: Brooks B-17
>- Headlight: Busch and Muller Lumotec IQ Premium Cyo
>- Taillight: Busch and Muller Toplight dyno
>- Rack: Pletscher Clem, with pannier rails and pump
>
>
> Some initial thoughts:
>
>- 
>
>Despite this being Rivendell’s “budget” bike, I’m really impressed 
>with the build quality of the frame. The lugwork at the seat cluster and 
>fork crown is beautiful, and the fork itself has an elegant little bend to 
>it. The paint job is just gorgeous, and the cream-painted lug windows and 
>fork-crown top are a nice touch. I also appreciate that the frame has 
>plenty of clearance to run wide tires, and it’s got lots of mounting 
> points 
>for fenders, racks, lights, etc.
>- 
>
>It’s a big bike. Of course it’s the long top tube and chainstays, and 
>the wingspan and rise of the Bullmoose Bosco handlebar add to the effect 
>(not to mention the chain needing a few more links over what’s in a 
>standard package). But it’s that long wheelbase — along with 48-mm (actual 
>width is 45 mm) tires — that makes for a plush and comfortable ride. It 
>also has a nice, stable feeling to it — it just goes where I want it to go 
>in a well-balanced manner. And that long wheelbase also keeps my heels 
> away 
>from rear panniers.
>
>
>- 
>
>I’m not entirely sold on the Bullmoose Bosco handlebar. I love the 
>looks, and it provides for a nice upright position and great visibility 
> for 
>the dense and trafficky area I usually ride in, but I find that my wrists 
>are not in an ideal position. It’s not a deal-breaker, but I wish I could 
>rotate the bar downward just a tad.
>- 
>
>I really like the Sunrace shifters. I’ve read that some haven’t been 
>too happy with them, but mine work flawlessly; I haven’t had any ghost 
>shifting or any other problems. Because of interference with the brake 
>lever clamping bolt, I had to rotate the shifter to the top of the bar 
> (and 
>away from Rivendell’s usual method of mounting them), but it’s still 
> easily 
>accessible with my thumb.
>- 
>
>The 1x8 drivetrain works really well, and I love the simplicity of the 
>set-up. The 34-tooth chainring with the 11-34t cassette gives me a range 
> of 
>26-81 gear inches, which is just right for the terrain I deal with and 
> what 
>I use the bike for, and the narrow-wide chainring does what it’s supposed 
>to do — while I haven’t gone over really rough terrain yet, and I’m 
> running 
>only an 8-speed cassette, I have yet to drop a chain.
>
> All in all, I’m very happy with this bike, and I’m glad I took the leap of 
> faith last year to jump on the pre-order special on the frame. The Clem is 
> a great introduction to Rivendell bikes, and I’m now wondering if this 
> might be the gateway drug to picking up more!
>
> More photos of the build can be seen here:
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/30490050@N04/albums/72157659062048963
>
> Bob E
>
> Garwood, NJ
>

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[RBW] Re: Conversations with Grandma

[Garth]

   Yes everyone !  Thank you for being *here* too !  

I'm much a loss to explain anything anymore .  . .lol .  .  . . everything 
just kinda is  .  . . . and how wonderful here is when ya let go of what it 
means and implies .  . ..  just go with it and *be here* .   I find all the 
questions answer themselves .  .  . it's the darndest and neatest thing !   
Everything *here* , fully self supplied. It's like looking for your keys 
all over the house and they are right here in your pocket the whole time.  
Life is like that too, I spent so much time looking for everything "out 
there" and all the while everything is right *here* the whole time. 
Ahaahahahahaahahaah .  .. and hearty deep laugh with that !  !   !Yep . 
. . the laugh of Eternity Hugh !  Ever laughing in bliss.  . . . "who could 
I ever be, but Me, Eternity ?  Where could I ever be, but here with Me, 
Eternity ?" 

Like a ever flowing Spring of Infinity :)  A very good day to 
Ride .  ..  . . here indeed !  

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Re: [RBW] Re: May Day Grocery Run

[Ron Mc]

even in the snow, Deac rides with his hair on fire

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