Re: [Spits] Spit clutch adjustment

2013-07-29 Thread Joe Curry
You shouldn't have to worry about keeping the clutch pedal pushed in.  By
pushing it all the way to the floor, the crankshaft will be pushed to its
maximum forward position. Releasing the pedal won't change that.  So you can
use that crank position as the starting point and measure how far back it
will go when you push on the crank pulley.  That will measure the end float.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: HANS DEFERRANTE [mailto:junede...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2013 11:06 AM
To: Joe Curry; spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] Spit clutch adjustment

Thanks Joe,
That makes a lot of sense. Problem is, how to keep the clutch disengaged
while checking the end float? Although slave and master cylinders look OK it
may still be a hydraulic problem. Does someone out there have some nifty
simple idea to keep the clutch disengaged, with the SC removed, while
checking end float?

Hans
61 TR3A
76 Spit



On Jul 27, 2013, at 10:54 PM, Joe Curry wrote:

 You night have worn thrust washers allowing the crank to float rather than
 release the clutch.  Check the end float by pushing back on the crank
pulley
 nut and then measure how far it travels when the clutch is depressed.
 
 Joe
 
 -Original Message-
 From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
 [mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HANS DEFERRANTE
 Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 9:02 PM
 To: spitfires@autox.team.net
 Subject: [Spits] Spit clutch adjustment
 
 The clutch on my 76 spit suddenly fails to disengage when hot. The  shop
 manual  does not mention any adjustment procedure. Does that mean either
air
 in the hydraulics or worn clutch bearing?
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Re: [Spits] Spit clutch adjustment

2013-07-27 Thread Joe Curry
You night have worn thrust washers allowing the crank to float rather than
release the clutch.  Check the end float by pushing back on the crank pulley
nut and then measure how far it travels when the clutch is depressed.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HANS DEFERRANTE
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 9:02 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Spit clutch adjustment

The clutch on my 76 spit suddenly fails to disengage when hot. The  shop
manual  does not mention any adjustment procedure. Does that mean either air
in the hydraulics or worn clutch bearing?
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Re: [Spits] Busted my windshield :-(

2012-12-04 Thread Joe Curry
The TR6 and TR4 windshields will fit a Roundtail Spit but not the MkIV and
1500.  Those are different.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2012 2:53 PM
To: Spitfire Group
Subject: Re: [Spits] Busted my windshield :-(

I believe a tr6 windshield, which I think also means tr4/tr4a, is the same. 
I know the tr6 windshield is available new.  and there are numerous parts 
cars and people parting them out.

-Original Message- 
From: Doug Braun
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2012 12:54 PM
To: Spitfire Group
Subject: [Spits] Busted my windshield :-(

Hello,

I had decided to keep my original windshield as I repainted my car, but
today I managed to bust it while trying to improve its fit in the car.

So I definitely need a replacement squaretail windshield.  Any suggestions?
I live in central NJ.

Thanks,
Doug 
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Re: [Spits] Clutch is slipping

2012-10-26 Thread Joe Curry
I've always used the Borg and Beck clutch kits and have never had an
instant's problems wit them.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Dwyer
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2012 1:26 PM
To: Spitfire list
Subject: [Spits] Clutch is slipping

My clutch is starting to slip on my 76 Spit and probably needs replacing.

This winter I am planning on taking the tranny out through the interior and
I
will also replace the three U joints in the rear end, get the flywheel
resurfaced, and replace the fluids in the tranny and rear end while I am at
it.

The only parts I have so far are the U joints and the rubber tranny mounts.
I
may need to install a new carpet set as well if the old one does not come
out
in one piece.

Any suggestions on parts that work well or other things that I should do or
check while everything is apart would be appreciated.

Any tips or tricks that I should know would be great as well.

Thanks

Jim
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Re: [Spits] Old Spitfire windshields??

2012-10-18 Thread Joe Curry
Since the glass also fits TR4, TR250 and TR6 models, I'd say Yes!

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Clark W. Nicholls
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 11:18 AM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Old Spitfire windshields??

Is it worth keeping old Spitfire windshields/frames?

I just threw out 2 cracked (due to storage for decades) ones.

 

I have one roundtail version out of frame and several in the frame.

(and a bunch of doors, boot lids, etc)

 

Making room. Western Massachusetts.

Clark
Clark W. Nicholls
1972 Stag (LE7931E) for sale, 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U) 
and 1 rusty GT6 needing new owner
Reality, it's not what you think.
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Re: [Spits] Cam Bearings in 1500

2012-09-21 Thread Joe Curry
The best way to install cam bearings in a 1500 block is to use a cam for an
engine that was originally equipped with cam bearings.  That way you don't
have to bore those journals.  The Mk3 for example had cam bearings which use
the same size block borings as the 1500 but have the cam journals sized
smaller so the bearing will fit between the block and the cam.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Elliott
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 10:33 AM
To: Spitfire list
Subject: [Spits] Cam Bearings in 1500

Hi,

I am rebuilding the bottom end of my engine - bad rod bearing.

My cam looks like it is in good shape and is only a couple years old. I will
ask shop to verify.  

I am thinking about having cam bearings installed - I have read arguments on
both sides.

As I understand it, the normal process is to install cam bearings then use
an earlier small journal cam.  Is there a bearing set that will allow me to
use the large journal cam I have?   I realize the block would have to be
bored out to accept larger bearings.

Thanks,
Roger Elliott
1980 Spitfire
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Re: [Spits] Cam Bearings in 1500

2012-09-21 Thread Joe Curry
Yes Bill.  Let a Professional do it!  :)

JOe

-Original Message-
From: Bill Gingerich [mailto:wrginger...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 4:19 PM
To: 'Joe Curry'; 'Roger Elliott'; 'Spitfire list'
Subject: RE: [Spits] Cam Bearings in 1500

Was it the #3 rod?

I've never seen bearings for what you're talking about.  It seems like an
awful lot of work to avoid finding a small journal cam.  Perhaps your
existing cam can be machined down to the correct size.  But I'm with Joe on
this one - leave the block alone.

If you haven't already, seriously consider enlarging the oil galley in the
block as per the competition prep manual.  It helps that #3 rod bearing live
longer.

I don't know if there is a trick to putting the bearings.  I was considering
doing this when I did my 1500 several years ago, but decided to let it ride.

Joe - any wisdom on installing the bearings in the block?

BillG
74 Spit


-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 1:27 PM
To: 'Roger Elliott'; 'Spitfire list'
Subject: Re: [Spits] Cam Bearings in 1500

The best way to install cam bearings in a 1500 block is to use a cam for an
engine that was originally equipped with cam bearings.  That way you don't
have to bore those journals.  The Mk3 for example had cam bearings which use
the same size block borings as the 1500 but have the cam journals sized
smaller so the bearing will fit between the block and the cam.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Elliott
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 10:33 AM
To: Spitfire list
Subject: [Spits] Cam Bearings in 1500

Hi,

I am rebuilding the bottom end of my engine - bad rod bearing.

My cam looks like it is in good shape and is only a couple years old. I will
ask shop to verify.  

I am thinking about having cam bearings installed - I have read arguments on
both sides.

As I understand it, the normal process is to install cam bearings then use
an earlier small journal cam.  Is there a bearing set that will allow me to
use the large journal cam I have?   I realize the block would have to be
bored out to accept larger bearings.

Thanks,
Roger Elliott
1980 Spitfire
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Re: [Spits] Purple factory color?

2012-09-07 Thread Joe Curry
The color is Magenta and was a factory color.  Here's a chart of Triumph
colors:  http://spitlist.info/Paint.html

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ryan Waltrip
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2012 9:48 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Purple factory color?

Not sure if this link will work, but will give it a try:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151016513201644set=o.29222983061;
type=1theater

Was that GT6 a factory color?
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[Spits] FW: ***PayPal Notice : TODKVODMTI

2012-07-16 Thread Joe Curry
Attention:

Anyone receiving any messages from an internet domain company.info send it
to your trash.  Don't answer or reply to it or go to any links contained in
it.  It is just another in a continuing fisching scheme to grab your
personal information.

 

Joe

 

  _  

From: secur...@paypal.com [mailto:fjl...@company.info] 
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2012 9:08 AM
To: us...@paypal.com
Subject: ***PayPal Notice : TODKVODMTI

 

Dear Customer,

 

 

Your account is not eligible for payment services because we were unable to
fully verify your personal information. We want 

 

to make sure that you can use our services at the highest level of security
and the easiest way,that requires that we verify

 

your account information.

 

 

 

In order to complete this verification, please follow the instruction .

 

 

https://www.paypal.com/us/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_login-submit
http://eeduca.com.br/blocat/a.php 

 

 

 

The system will only ask questions for the information on file.

 

 

 

 

PayPal  is required to send you such notifications regardless of your
unsubscribe status. Please do not reply to this message.

 

Thank you for your business.  We look forward to helping you manage your
money on your terms.

 

  

Sincerely,

 

PayPal Customer Service Team
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Re: [Spits] 1300 vs 1500 manifold

2012-06-04 Thread Joe Curry
When I first built the 1296 engine for Tiny Tim, I decided to use a large
valve 1500 head.  In doing some measurements I discovered that the
combustion chambers of the 1500 head were much deeper than the 1300 ones and
if I did nothing to it, the compression would be extremely low.  Shaving the
head on the order of a quarter inch achieved the compression ration that I
was seeking.  I sourced pushrods from Ted Schumacher to achieve the correct
rocker geometry.  I also had Ted get me a set of Isky dual valve springs and
roller rockers to complete the upgrade.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
celirace...@hotmail.com
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2012 9:01 AM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] 1300 vs 1500 manifold

I have reason to believe that the head on my '68 is from the DPO's 1500.  no
problems with the exhaust or intake manifolds fitting properly.  I did have
some issues with the length of the head bolts though.

 Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2012 10:45:11 -0600
 From: m...@bradakis.com
 To: spitfires@autox.team.net
 Subject: Re: [Spits] 1300 vs 1500 manifold

 Dave wrote:
  will an su intake manifold and carbs bolt up to a 75 1500 engine?
anyone
done
  that?
 

 Yes.  Yes.

 mjb.
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Re: [Spits] Remove/replace Spitfire windshield (and paint question)

2012-05-02 Thread Joe Curry
The best way to accomplish what you are describing is to take a linoleum
knife and cut away the outside lip of the gasket.  That will allow you to
lift the glass out without any obstruction.  Your only problem might be if a
previous owner has put any sort of sealant on the gasket which will make the
glass stick to the remaining seal.  In that case, you will have to run some
sort of blede between the inner seal and glass to free the windshield.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug Braun
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2012 10:50 AM
To: Spitfire Group
Subject: [Spits] Remove/replace Spitfire windshield (and paint question)

Hello,

I'm planning to repaint my car, and I want to remove and replace the
windshield, with a new gasket.
Does anybody have any tips on getting the windshield out without breaking
it, and without messing up the interior trim?

BTW, what sort of pain was originally used on these cars (in 1972, at
least)?  I need to figure out if there are any
potential compatibility issues with the acrylic urethane paint I plan to
use.

Thanks,
Doug

'72 Spit
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[Spits] Rick Kristoff

2012-03-01 Thread Joe Curry
Sorry to bomb the list, but would Rick Kristoff please contact me.

 

Thanks,

Joe Curry
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[Spits] Jim Gambony

2012-01-09 Thread Joe Curry
Sorry to bomb the list, but is Jim still a member?  If so, please contact
me.

 

Thanks,

Joe
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[Spits] GT6 Calipers

2011-12-18 Thread Joe Curry
Does anyone have a pair of GT6 calipers that they would want to get rid of
(CHEAP)?

 

I can use good ones, rebuildable ones and even some trashed ones that I can
use as a core for exchange.

 

I am upgrading my front brakes on my red Mk1 Spit and all I need to complete
the task is a pair of calipers.

 

Thanks,

Joe Curry
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[Spits] 50th anniversary Spitfire commemorative decals

2011-12-10 Thread Joe Curry
As many of you probably already know, I have made up a batch of static cling
decals commemorating the 50's anniversary of the introduction of the Triumph
Spitfire.  Sales have been strong but several people have asked about
sticky-back decals so I have been considering putting together a production
run of those as well.

 

Several people in the FOT have already put in their orders.  So in order to
keep production costs down, I want to do all them in one production run.
Toward that end, I have 3 sizes that I can produce together in the same run.
Here are the details:

 

SizeCost

11.6 wide by 6.3 high$25.00 each

10 wide by 5.5 high   $22.50 each

6.75 wide by 3.75 high  $12.00 each

 

Plans are to do the run in mid January because of he time of the year and
all the hassles concerning that.  So if anyone wants to get in on this
single production run, please notify me before the first week in January.

 

The image can be seen at the following web site (scroll to the bottom)
http://spitlist.info/centercaps.html

 

Regards,

Joe Curry
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[Spits] Spitfire 50th anniversary decals

2011-12-01 Thread Joe Curry
In case anybody has forgotten, 2012 is the 50th anniversary of the
introduction of the Triumph Spitfire.  To celebrate this event, I have
created a commemorative static cling decal (for inside of glass).  They are
selling for $5.00 each (postage and handling included).

 

Special volume discounts are offered for people who wish to distribute them
within clubs.

 

You can see what it looks like at the following web site (scroll to the
bottom of the page)

 

http://www.spitlist.info/centercaps.html

 

Banners are also being made on special order requests.

 

Lets all celebrate this event by displaying this decal.

 

Regards,

Joe Curry
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Re: [Spits] OD fuse

2011-09-03 Thread Joe Curry
Grant (what a great last name for a fuse related issue),
What you are describing is a classic short to ground situation.  When you
turn on the OD switch, the short is causing too much current to go through
the fuse and it blows.  The short cold be anywhere in that circuit including
the OD solenoid itself.  To find the trouble, you will need an ohmmeter to
trace where the short is.  By disconnecting the wires one at a time anc
checking for continuity, you should be able to locate the problem.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Grant
Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2011 7:55 AM
To: Spitfire List
Subject: [Spits] OD fuse

Hi everyone
I have a problem with my OD. The top fuse will blow as soon as I move the
switch to turn on the OD. After that happened twice I didnbt use the OD
anymore and the fuse stayed good for the rest of the weekend. I canbt see
anything wrong with the wires or the switch. In the garage I have moved the
wires every way I can and I have moved the switch to turn the OD on and off.
No blown fuse. Would that be different then if the car was moving??

I am thinking of putting a separate fuse for the OD so that if it blows it
will be only the OD that stops working. I think the fuse should be on the
Green wire not the Green and Brown .
Thank you for any help you can give me.

Grant Buss
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Re: [Spits] Spitfire Oil Temp

2011-08-31 Thread Joe Curry
Oil temperature is not all that important on a street driven Spitfire
because they are seldom driven hard enough to be overly concerned with it.
That said, One thing you can do is fabricate yourself a new drain plug with
the sensor built into it.  That way, you can add a gauge without having to
permanently modify the oil pan. 

I did that with my Honda Engine that is in my Black Spit (Tiny Tim).  The
Honda engine has a very nice finned aluminum oil pan that I did not want to
hack on.

On my Red Spit (Huxley) I added a boss on the oil pan for a temp gauge when
I was building the engine.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Elliott
Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2011 5:48 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Spitfire Oil Temp

Hi,

Is there an easy way to check oil temperature in a Spitfire?  I know I 
can put in an oil temp gauge, but that seems like a lot of work for what 
is not going to be a permanent installation.   From what I understand, 
the oil temp sender has to be in the oil pan itself.


Thanks,
Roger Elliott
80 Spitfire
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Re: [Spits] Speedster Convertible top cover

2011-07-26 Thread Joe Curry
If you are talking about a solid tonneau, I have also thought about that
as an option.  However, since both of my Spits have roll bars installed, it
would be difficult to come up with something that would work.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
celirace...@hotmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2011 1:05 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Speedster Convertible top cover

Has anyone ever considered making a speedster convertible top cover for a
spitfire?  A reference to what I am talking about could be found on a C5
Corvette Convertible or even the Porsche Boxsters had a Speedster Cover
available.
I am considering the feasibility of this project since I am currently on the
fence about wanting to put the top on my Spitfire or not.  I think having
this
type of cover would be a nice finishing touch to the back end of the car vs.
the standard leather cover.
Once my new house deal goes through and the spitfire comes out of storage, I
plan on doing a lot of measuring and put together some drawings as to what I
am talking about.
Any thoughts?
Cheers,Dave
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Re: [Spits] High Beam Failure

2011-07-10 Thread Joe Curry
Second the Fiesta Bosch suggestion.  I have one on Huxley and it is
fantastic.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Gingerich
Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 8:28 PM
To: 'Gary Tash'; spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] High Beam Failure

Another option is the Bosch unit (or similar) out of a 1978-1980 Ford
Fiesta.  A friend did it several years ago, and it was a bolt in
replacement.  All the mounting and wiring plug were correct.  Rock auto has
a compatible remanufactured unit for about $50.  

BillG
Hastings, MN


-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Tash
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 11:16 AM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] High Beam Failure

I had the alternator/regulator tested and the guy says its within limits.
However, I understand that the Lucas is prone to intermittent overcharging.
And I was having a problem with the battery boiling on longer runs, although
that seems to have subsided.  I'm thinking about replacing the alternator.

The auto electric guys says there is a new version that is more stable, for
the price of only one arm.  On the other hand, some have suggested swapping
in a GM/Delco.  But right now I'm thinking about a new one from Spitbits
(think I'll forgo a rebuilt this time). I don't know if the Spitbits
offering is an updated version or not. 

Decisions . . .  But soon, have long road trip the end of them month.
-gary

Subject: [Spits] High beam failure

Burning out light bulbs can point to an alternator or regulator failure.
Basically the system voltage is too high.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma, CA
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Re: [Spits] High Beam Failure

2011-07-10 Thread Joe Curry
Not only does this particular Bosch unit use the same plug as the Lucas made
for Later Spits, but the mechanical mount and adjustment for the Lucas unit
work.  It is literally, Plug and Play

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary
Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 10:08 PM
To: 'Bill Gingerich'; spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] High Beam Failure

You mean like, plug and play, without playing with swapping plugs etc.?

The autoparts guy said the Delco could be a one wire installation, ignoring
the stock wiring all together.  B+ wire only.  But I don't think he's fully
aware of LBC issues.

I'll check out the Bosch unit.

Gary
WA
-Original Message-
From: Bill Gingerich [mailto:b...@gingerich.us]
Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2011 8:28 PM
To: 'Gary Tash'; spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Spits] High Beam Failure

Another option is the Bosch unit (or similar) out of a 1978-1980 Ford
Fiesta.  A friend did it several years ago, and it was a bolt in
replacement.  All the mounting and wiring plug were correct.  Rock auto has
a compatible remanufactured unit for about $50.

BillG
Hastings, MN


-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Tash
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 11:16 AM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] High Beam Failure

I had the alternator/regulator tested and the guy says its within limits.
However, I understand that the Lucas is prone to intermittent overcharging.
And I was having a problem with the battery boiling on longer runs,
although
that seems to have subsided.  I'm thinking about replacing the alternator.

The auto electric guys says there is a new version that is more stable, for
the price of only one arm.  On the other hand, some have suggested swapping
in a GM/Delco.  But right now I'm thinking about a new one from Spitbits
(think I'll forgo a rebuilt this time). I don't know if the Spitbits
offering is an updated version or not.

Decisions . . .  But soon, have long road trip the end of them month.
-gary

Subject: [Spits] High beam failure

Burning out light bulbs can point to an alternator or regulator failure.
Basically the system voltage is too high.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma, CA
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[Spits] Junk Email to list

2011-06-11 Thread Joe Curry
This morning I had 42 Spam emails in my inbox all addressed to the Triumph
and Spitfire lists as well as at least one individual.  I am wondering if
others have received these as well or just me and the others whose
individual address were on the TO line.

 

Joe
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Re: [Spits] [TR] Weird attachments

2011-06-06 Thread Joe Curry
Yes, I too received that same email.

 

Joe

 

  _  

From: chip19...@aol.com [mailto:chip19...@aol.com] 
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2011 5:49 AM
To: spitl...@cox.net; trium...@autox.team.net; spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Weird attachments

 

Joe,

 

A few days ago I got a very strange email from John Macartney's email
addressjust a bunch of jibberish characters...hopefully not a sign that
the List addresses have been hacked.

 

Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6 CF57822U

 

In a message dated 6/5/2011 4:25:48 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
spitl...@cox.net writes:

Has anybody else gotten any of theses?
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[Spits] Weird attachments

2011-06-05 Thread Joe Curry
Today, I started getting messages from Team.net list server with an
attachment that indicates that my email address is to be unsubscribed from
the lists.  Has anybody else gotten any of theses?  I suspect the lists have
been hacked.

 

Joe C.
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Re: [Spits] Cup Holders for Triumphs

2011-06-04 Thread Joe Curry
I used to have a pair of cheap plastic cup holders that hang off the insides
of the door glass openings.  They worked pretty well but Since I was too
busy driving, I never used them in either of my Triumphs.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tr250dri...@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2011 1:53 PM
To: trium...@autox.team.net
Cc: spitfires@autox.team.net; 6p...@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Cup Holders for Triumphs

Hey Folks,
Beverly, my wife  ace navigator is sort of big time frustrated. She  likes 
my Triumphs but insists that the major flaw in all of them is the absence  
of suitable Cup Holders!  I usually give her my cup to hold whilst I am  
running thru the gears and there she sits hers  mine in hand not only  
navigating but cup holding as well.  More often than not one or  both cups
get 
spilled on the carpet.  It happened this morning as we took  off in the 250
to 
join our fellow NCTA members for a drive to Mary Yoders for  lunch and a
tour 
of Ohio's Amish Country.  I am posting this request on  her behalf.  What 
say the List?  Do any of you have any cool  methods of holding you cups in 
Triumphs?
Thanks in Advance,
Darrell 
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Re: [Spits] Ignition Lamp

2011-04-25 Thread Joe Curry
The lamp illuminates when the battery charging system is not working.  It is
a good thing to have.  You can punch a hole in the dash and use either an
led or a lamp from Radio Shack.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Grant Buss
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2011 4:04 PM
To: spitfires-list
Subject: [Spits] Ignition Lamp

I am putting a new speedometer in and there is no place to put the Ignition
lamp, Highbeam Lamp or Oil Pressure Lamp like in the stock gauge.
The  Highbeam Lamp will change to a LED.
The Oil Pressure Lamp isn't needed (I have a gauge).

What can be done with the Ignition lamp? What does it do ??
Does it have to be lit ??
Can I change it to a smaller bulb and show it somewhere else ??

Thanks for the information
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Re: [Spits] How many spitfires still alive

2011-04-11 Thread Joe Curry
Go to http://members.cox.net/spitlist/index.htm and see how many I have
found since I started this project in 1997.  And if you have a Spitfire not
in the database, please go to the registration page and send in your data.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mkcaspi...@aol.com
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 12:31 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] How many spitfires still alive

Hi Folks,
My Calculations show that about 314,000 were built - any idea how many are
still up and running?
John
78 Spitfire
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Re: [Spits] Speed0/tach location

2011-03-22 Thread Joe Curry
Don't worry about it!  It gives the car a little unique personality!  :)

Now Darrell might not think so!  :)

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mkcaspi...@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2011 6:46 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Speed0/tach location

Hi Folks - Just finishing my total rebuild - car is now in paint shop - new
wiring, radiator, paint, bumpers recromed, new interior, dashboard
refinished
- I did it all, but how about this - I put it back together with the speedo
on
the right, and the tach on the left.  This is a left hand drive 78 1500.
Just
tonight looking at the photos from the early days, realized the tach is
supposed to be on the right, CORRECT??  69,000 original miles, and hope to
get
another 20 years + out of it.
John - 78 Spitfire
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Re: [Spits] (no subject)

2011-03-21 Thread Joe Curry
Me Too!

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Gingerich
Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2011 9:32 PM
To: 'Douglas Braun'; spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] (no subject)

I'm still here as well.  My '74 is waiting for the snow to melt, and for
enough rain to wash most of the salt off the roads.  MN like their highways
well seasoned.

BillG
Hastings, MN


-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Douglas Braun
Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2011 9:25 AM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] (no subject)

So, somebody else is still here!

My car lives on: last week I reinstalled the twin SU carbs on my Spit.
 I had removed them and reinstalled the stock Stromberg a few years
ago to pass an inspection, and had never gotten around to putting them
back on.  Then yesterday I did the annual Removal of the Hardtop, and
now it's hanging from the garage ceiling.

Doug Braun
'72 Spit

On Sun, Mar 20, 2011 at 8:23 AM, Dave Simpson dr_simp...@live.com wrote:
 test
 David R Simpson
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Re: [Spits] Spitfire Berber Floor mats

2011-01-01 Thread Joe Curry
You may be able to split the backing where you want it to bend.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Elliott
Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2011 4:30 PM
To: Spitfire list
Subject: [Spits] Spitfire Berber Floor mats

Hi,

My wife gave me some Berber carpet floor mats for Christmas.  I really like
the way the look outside the car,but I don't know if I can make them fit in
the car.   

The floor mats are long enough they go up the firewall, unlike the rubber
floor mats that many of us have.

The problem is they also have a stiff rubber backing, so they don't want to
bend around the body/frame at the front of the foot well.  I might be able
to heat and mold them.

Has any one purchased any of these floor mats and been able to fit them?

These are Introtech Automotive Floor Mats from Auto Accessories Garage, but
I suspect they are similar to ones offered by other online suppliers like
Auto Anything

Thanks,
Roger Elliott
1980 Spitfire
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Re: [Spits] early Spitfire OD column switch location

2010-08-19 Thread Joe Curry
I can't find it right now but I seem to recall that the guide ot
originality book by Thommason, shows the lever on the right side of the
stalk.  But that might change for LHD cars since that book only shows RHD
cars.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Mace
Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 12:41 PM
To: n...@yahoogroups.com; spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] early Spitfire OD column switch location

A question for anyone with an original OD installation (particularly
those with the last O in the commission number) in their Spitfire 4
or Mk2: on which side of the steering column is the OD switch? The Mk2
Owners Manual appears to show it on the LH side, with the turn signal
switch; TRF's Spitfire Glovebox Companion catalogue suggests that it
would be on the RH side, with the headlamp switch.

Which is correct?

Regardless, would I be correct in assuming that the switch would be
operated by raising it?

Feel free to reply ONLY to me unless you think the list would be
fascinated with all this, and thanks in advance! :-)

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er,
Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph
Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us
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Re: [Spits] Trivia alertTriumph in adver tising

2010-08-10 Thread Joe Curry
The trouble with using a Spitfire to hawk GPS systems is that there was no
cigarette lighter socket installed to power the system.



-Original Message-
From: triumphs-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of v6spitfire...@cox.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 4:42 AM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Cc: trium...@autox.team.net
Subject: Trivia alertTriumph in advertising

We were shopping at our local Costco (a large bulk item store for those of
you who arent familiar with the name) and as I passed by a row of GPS
devices, something caught my eye.  I glanced back and sure enough, on a
poster board about three foot square, with a Tom-Tom GPS attached to the
top of it, was a large photo of an early white MK4 Spitfire on a country
road.  A full three quarter back right side shot, about two feet long.  I
of course shrieked to my wife,  HEY DEAR, LOOK which caused a few people
to suddenly look over to see what I was apparently so excited about.  They
probably thought I was excited about the GPS  but we all know what I was
really looking at!!  My wife of course noticed that it was occupied by two
girls, silly me for not noticing It was pretty cool

Barry and Rosanne
San Diego, CA


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Re: [Spits] Rear spring with too much arch

2010-08-04 Thread Joe Curry
The springs do not differ in length regardless of whether the axle shafts
were ling or short.  That is why the cars with longer shafts sit with an
exaggerated negative camber.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Cleobury Phil
Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 6:08 AM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] Rear spring with too much arch

  Possibly a long drive shaft spring from a 1500.
Two drive shafts on a Mk IV (mostly short)and 1500 (long) 1 inch difference

On 8/3/2010 3:22 PM, Stuart Greenwood wrote:
 About 6 monhts ago I replaced the rear spring on my MkIV with a new one
from
 Moss Motors in Goleta.  The old one was bottoming going over dips in the
road.
 The problem I have is that the rear wheels now have quite a bit of
 positive  camber  and I can feel the wheels tucking in  when I go round
a
 corner even at moderate speeds. The only solutions I can come up with are
get
 the spring de-arched like Kasner says in his book or put a thick spacer
 between
 the diff and the spring to lift it up so that the drive shafts angle
 becomes
 closer to horizontal.  However the spacer idea is a little tricky
 since it would
 have to have a stub to locate in the hole on the diff and then
 a hole in its'
 top side so the stub on the spring bracket would slot in and
 hence retain the
 ability of the spring to pivot. It looks almost impossible
 to drill holes lower
 down in the uprights which carry the drive shafr
 bearings hence lifting the
 drive shafts without using a spacer. I was hoping
 that the spring would de-arch
 itself after a while but I put a load of bricks
 in the trunk and just couldn't
 get to even a zero camber let alone negative
 camber as it should be.
 Has anyone come across this problem and found a
 solution?
 I also notice that Kasner also recommends removing the loop on the
 second leaf
 but this loop looks like it is a safety device in the event
 of failure of
 the main leaf to upright attachment.
   Stuart a Greenwood
 71 Mk
 IV Spitfire, 71Mk 1 Stag
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Re: [Spits] Whitewall tires for GT6?

2010-08-03 Thread Joe Curry
Did they ever put whitewalls on GT6's?

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of s1...@comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 12:58 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Whitewall tires for GT6?

My dad's trying to resurrect his '71 GT6 Mk3. He's looking for a source for
whitewall tires. Anyone have a lead? ie any part # I could inquire/order
from Discount Tire, or even mail order?
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Re: [Spits] Sputtering when hot above 50 mph

2010-07-21 Thread Joe Curry
If the car does not already have a heat shield between the exhaust manifold
and carb, I would start by installing one.  Those things are easy to
construct from sheet aluminum and are very effective at preventing the heat
from the exhaust from boiling the fuel in the float bowl.

Hopefully that will solve your problem.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Stull
Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2010 4:22 AM
To: Spitfire Group
Subject: [Spits] Sputtering when hot above 50 mph

Sent this last night but I didn't know if it went through, I didn't see it.
Sorry if you received it twice.

Thanks guys,

I drove it last night and ran great. Had it up to 60 mph for about 20 miles.
Temperature was in the lower 70's. Maybe I didn't drive it long enough. When
I
have trouble is when the temperature is in the 90's.

Let me ask another question, could oil make the car run hotter. I did an oil
change and used Auto Zone brand oil. I usually use Valvoline oil. I still
used
20 W 50 like I always use. Just trying to think of things I did since
problem
started.

Also what is the reason for the spacer on the fuel pump? I heard two
different
reasons. One is that it makes the fuel pump run a little cooler and the
other
is you can use a fuel pump from a different model car (like a Chevy) that's
more common.

I'm going to put a 160 degree thermostat in to see if that helps. Also going
to put a new fuel pump on but I can't understand why it only does it on a
hot
day. Unless the fuel pump acts up when it gets hot?

Matt, you wouldn't happen to be going to the Vintage Grand Prix at
Pittsburgh
this weekend? I'll be there on Saturday but as of right now I wouldn't be
driving my Spitfire there.

Greg
1978 Spitfire 1500
Ohio
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[Spits] GT6 Body removal.

2010-07-02 Thread Joe Curry
I have been contacted by the owner of a GT6+ near Valley Forge, PA.  He is
wanting to buy one of my shock mount brackets but is not sure he is up to
the task of lifting the rear of the body from the frame to install the
bracket.

So, I would like to know if there is anyone in that area who is willing to
lend some expertise to him.

Thanks,
Joe Curry
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Re: [Spits] New tank - slight hitch

2010-06-11 Thread Joe Curry
Not only can you fit spacers, but you should.  I would recommend that they
be made of rubber to absorb vibrations to keep the thing from shaking the
seams and self destructing.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of s1...@comcast.net
Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 5:32 AM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] New tank - slight hitch

With some elbow grease, I got the new fuel tank in, but with one hitch.
Always a hitch with new parts. 

The Fuel filler cap doesn't fit on quite right. At best, it sticks out a
third of an inch from where it should be. It seems the fuel filler neck on
the tank is a bit far forward. Did my best to fit things together so as to
no fuel leaks when I fill-up, but I think I can do better. I'm not sure if
the neck is exactly advanced forward a bit too far, or at some weird angle
where the back of the neck area isn't giving the filler cap enough room.
Tried loosening the top bolts to change the angle a bit, to no avail. 

In theory, could one put some washers as shims to overall move the tank back
a bit to line things up right? That's gonna be fun on some of the
hard-to-reach zones between tank  car for bolt holes. 
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Re: [Spits] [TR] a rough week for cars

2010-06-09 Thread Joe Curry
Jim, If you are fortunate it might only be the throwout bearing.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: triumphs-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 4:06 PM
To: trium...@autox.team.net; Spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] a rough week for cars

We've been fighting a locking rear brake on the Caravan for months.  
Once it got so hot so quickly it blew the tire.  It's been diagnosed 
as just an over-tight brake, a malfunctioning parking brake, a 
malfunctioning self-adjusting mechanism.  Lots of parts have been 
replaced.  They just hired a new certified master mechanic and he 
finally diagnosed it as a bad hose, much like us LBC guys have to 
worry about.  Apparently he pressure-tested it.  Only trouble is, the 
part is a single hose running form the front to both back wheels, it 
cost over $400, they have to pull the gas tank out to install it, and 
oh by the way the nearest one is 3 days away.

So for the past two days I've driven the GT6 to work, 110 miles round 
trip.  Today as I'm sitting in traffic through town only a quarter of 
a mile from home I start hearing a horrible grinding, crunching, 
rubbing sound.  If the tranny is in neutral and I depress the clutch, 
it stops.  If I release the clutch with the tranny in neutral, it 
starts up.  When the car is rolling, if I depress the clutch and put 
it in neutral the noise stops.  If I depress the clutch and put it in 
any gear, the noise starts up.  The common element in these 
combinations is the laygear.  Spin the laygear and it ain't happy.  
After that wonderful trip to Mt. Desert and two day trips to work, it 
decided to get sick so close to home.  St. Lucas must have been 
looking out for me.  But now I have to tear the tranny down again.  
Oh well, it's been whining a lot lately anyway.

So I'm down to only one car.  The Spitfire has been sitting in the 
garage, battery slowly going down and already in negative numbers.  
It needed inspection last October.  However with a starter battery 
attached he fired right up.  Maybe tomorrow I can get it inspected 
early in the morning then go to work.

Anybody got a spare free month they can lend me?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmul...@rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

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Re: [Spits] [TR] a rough week for cars

2010-06-09 Thread Joe Curry
Not necessarily.  If the bearing is loose the vibrations might cause noise
that is stopped when the bearing contacts the pressure plate fingers.  But
in most situations, you are probably right.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: triumphs-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 6:18 PM
To: trium...@autox.team.net; Spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] a rough week for cars

On 9 Jun 2010 at 16:33, Joe Curry wrote:

 Jim, If you are fortunate it might only be the throwout bearing.

Joe, don't I wish you were right.  But the TO bearing would stop 
making noise, not start, when I release the clutch.  And with the 
clutch depressed and the car rolling it wouldn't start making noise 
whenever I engage any gear, and stop when I put it back into neutral.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmul...@rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

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Re: [Spits] Replacement transmissin synchro problems -

2010-04-27 Thread Joe Curry
Barry,
What I have heard (and can't say from personal experience) is that the new
synchro rings you can buy these days are not even close to being as good as
the original ones.  If that is indeed the case, I would be looking for some
NOS ones.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of v6spitfire...@cox.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2010 8:04 AM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Cc: trium...@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Replacement transmissin synchro problems -

I am going to be rebuilding and replacing my wifes 1296 Spitfire with a
1500 lump, and since I will be pulling the engine, I was also considering
fixing the problem I have had since the initial restoration of the car
about 6 years ago, and that is with the synchros in the transmission.  This
transmission is a single rail 1975 overdrive box, and at the time I had
replaced all the synchros with new.  They have never been right, grinding
in almost every gear unless you allow a second or two between shifts, or
double clutch.  Forget about fast shifting - I was really disappointed with
the initial rebuild, and as such am hesitant to do it all over again,
especially since I have heard similar stories with problem replacement
synchros   I am not about to buy new synchros and go through all the work
to replace them, only to have the same problem -
Has the bad synchro problem been fixed or are they all still junk??


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Re: [Spits] [TR] Amicale Spitfires

2010-03-29 Thread Joe Curry
They DID include an English translation which is a selectable option at
the main page.  But it doesn't appear to be active anymore.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Mace
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 8:08 PM
To: spitf...@freebacon.net; trium...@autox.team.net;
spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] [TR] Amicale Spitfires

-Original Message-
From: Mike Welch spitf...@freebacon.net


I hope they provide an English translated site, I can't read French...it's
like they have a different word for *everything*.

==AM==
According to babelfish.altavista.com translator, that word is tout! :-)

Sorry, I couldn't resist!

--Andy Mace (MacC) many generations ago, and that's about all the French I
know)

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us
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[Spits] Amicale Spitfires

2010-03-28 Thread Joe Curry
I have been trying to pull up the French Spitfire Club website (Amicale
Spitfires) for several days without success.

Does anybody know if the site has changed addresses or has been taken down?

I shutter to think that it is no longer up since it was a wealth of
information and interesting things.

Thanks,
Joe
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Re: [Spits] Photos from VTR 2001 in Breckenridge CO

2010-03-23 Thread Joe Curry
I have to correct Andy on one thing.  Breckinridge was the last event that
Tiny Tim had a highly modified MK3 Spit engine before the upgrade to the
S2000 Honda power.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Lindeman
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 2:59 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Photos from VTR 2001 in Breckenridge CO

I uploaded a few photos from the VTR convention in Breckenridge from
2001.  There are a few of Joe Curry playing around in his S2000
powered Spitfire, as well as one of list master Mark Bradakis hanging
on to the racing line in his race prepped Killer Spitfire.  There is
an unidentified race prepared TR-4 in there too.  Does anyone know who
that car belongs to?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/aklindeman/sets/72157623680464148/

Andy L.
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Re: [Spits] Photos from VTR 2001 in Breckenridge CO

2010-03-23 Thread Joe Curry
Mark,
It's Breckenridge again next year.  I am planning to go, how about you?

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 7:29 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] Photos from VTR 2001 in Breckenridge CO

Andrew Lindeman wrote:
 I uploaded a few photos from the VTR convention in Breckenridge from
 2001.  There are a few of Joe Curry playing around in his S2000
 powered Spitfire, as well as one of list master Mark Bradakis hanging
 on to the racing line in his race prepped Killer Spitfire. 

Wow.  Has it really been that long since I've been to a VTR convention?
I really need to do something about that.

mjb.
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Re: [Spits] Check out Triumph TR4,TR6 ,MG ?Top

2010-01-04 Thread Joe Curry
Looking at the shape of the cutout for the window glass and the locations of
the securing bolts, I am guessing Late Spitfire.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of thomas...@aol.com
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 7:47 PM
To: trium...@autox.team.net; spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Check out Triumph TR4,TR6 ,MG ?Top

As seen on craigslist. Not mine and NFI. Tom
 
_http://providence.craigslist.org/pts/1514240928.html_ 
(http://providence.craigslist.org/pts/1514240928.html) 
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Re: [Spits] Spit steering wheel/shaft questions

2010-01-03 Thread Joe Curry
That pretty well describes all the Spit steering columns.  I think what is
commonly referred to as collapsible is the type that resembles braided
hoses except much larger and stiffer.  In a collision, it acts like one of
those Chinese Finger thingies.  It will collapse and expand but not
separate.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 6:33 AM
To: Spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] Spit steering wheel/shaft questions

On 2 Jan 2010 at 20:51, Joe Curry wrote:

 I don't believe there ever was a collapsible column on any Spits
 but because I have not paid much attention to the later ones.

My 1500 has a collapsible column, a sliding wedge arrangement just 
above the firewall.  It can be used as a wheel position adjustment 
too but you give up collapse distance.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmul...@rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
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Re: [Spits] miles AND km/h speedometer face

2010-01-02 Thread Joe Curry
Did the Midget use the same gauges as the Spitfire of the same vintage?  If
so, you need to cite the numbers on the gauge face to ensure that the
readings will be correct.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of de Brebisson, Cyrille
(Calculator Division)
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 1:00 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] miles AND km/h speedometer face

Hello,

I am planning to move to Europe with my 78 Midget...

However, to be road legal overthere, I need km/h indication on the
speedometer...

Right now, my speedometer only has miles...

Does anyone has a spare speedometer or speedometer face that they could part
with (I can send back my mile/h only face so that they would still have a
working speedo at the end).

Thanks,
Cyrille
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Re: [Spits] Spit steering wheel/shaft questions

2010-01-02 Thread Joe Curry
After SN 7500, the later wheel(3 slotted spokes) was introduced.  That
corresponded to the 70 model.

I don't believe there ever was a collapsible column on any Spits but because
I have not paid much attention to the later ones.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of zoboher...@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 7:10 PM
To: Spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] Spit steering wheel/shaft questions

In a message dated 1/2/2010 6:34:27 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
carcent...@yahoo.com writes:

What  year(s) was the banjo steering wheel standard equipment?
(see pic at _http://www.carcentric.com/spitfiresteeringwheelCU.jpg_ 
(http://www.carcentric.com/spitfiresteeringwheelCU.jpg) )
 
==AM==
I'm thinking Mk3 Spitfire at least through 1969; at the moment I can't  
remember about the 1970 Mk3, nor can I lay my hands on any pictures or sales

literature for same.
==AM==

Did  Spits ever have an expanded metal collapsible section in the steering 
shaft  designed to crush in a frontal impact?
==AM==
Only if there was something akin to that in the TR7-style steering column  
adopted by the 1977 and later Spitfire 1500 models.  

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph 
Herald engine with wings.
--  Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 /  Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) 

Check out the North  American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) 
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Re: [Spits] Spit steering wheel/shaft questions

2010-01-02 Thread Joe Curry
OOPS, I left off a Zero.  That should have been 75000.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 8:52 PM
To: zoboher...@aol.com; Spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] Spit steering wheel/shaft questions

After SN 7500, the later wheel(3 slotted spokes) was introduced.  That
corresponded to the 70 model.

I don't believe there ever was a collapsible column on any Spits but because
I have not paid much attention to the later ones.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of zoboher...@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 7:10 PM
To: Spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] Spit steering wheel/shaft questions

In a message dated 1/2/2010 6:34:27 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
carcent...@yahoo.com writes:

What  year(s) was the banjo steering wheel standard equipment?
(see pic at _http://www.carcentric.com/spitfiresteeringwheelCU.jpg_ 
(http://www.carcentric.com/spitfiresteeringwheelCU.jpg) )
 
==AM==
I'm thinking Mk3 Spitfire at least through 1969; at the moment I can't  
remember about the 1970 Mk3, nor can I lay my hands on any pictures or sales

literature for same.
==AM==

Did  Spits ever have an expanded metal collapsible section in the steering 
shaft  designed to crush in a frontal impact?
==AM==
Only if there was something akin to that in the TR7-style steering column  
adopted by the 1977 and later Spitfire 1500 models.  

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph 
Herald engine with wings.
--  Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 /  Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) 

Check out the North  American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) 
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Re: [Spits] Some 1500 questions

2009-12-28 Thread Joe Curry
If you used mid-grade or Regular unleaded and did not get any pinging, then
you are throwing your money away using the Premium grade.  The difference in
the fuels is the octane rating and the only thing that octane does is
increase the temperature at which the fuel ignites.  If your engine does not
show signs of pre-ignition using regular fuel, then you are not gaining
anything by using higher octane fuels.

Joe 

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 7:19 AM
To: v6spitfire...@cox.net; spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] Some 1500 questions


I've got a 76, I assume it's 9:1.  I use premium fuel.

The cost difference around here is about 12%.  That means, at 25 MPG, 
it costs an extra $12 to go a thousand miles.  If I couldn't afford 
that, I couldn't afford a Spitfire.  I have used regular and 
mid-grade, but not in the hottest part of the year.  I didn't notice 
any problems, though.

Of course, in sunny San Diego, it'll be a little more expensive.  But 
it's been my experience that higher octane fuel is available most 
everywhere.  You could store a bottle of octane boost in the boot for 
emergencies.


Jeff Scarbrough  75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Corrosion Acres, Georgia #354 
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Re: [Spits] Rear Wheel Stud Removal

2009-12-27 Thread Joe Curry
If they are the stock studs, there is enough clearance between the hub and
backing plate for the studs to be removed.  All you have to do is knock them
back with a hammer and remove them from behind.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daniel Parrott
Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2009 4:15 PM
To: 'Spitfire list'
Subject: [Spits] Rear Wheel Stud Removal

Now that I have the Canley Classics CV joint-axels in, I cranked on the rear
hubs.  When I added the road wheels to the frame (to get the rolling chassis
really rolling) if find that for some reasons none of the wheel studs will
tighten, the threads are too small.  I need to replace the wheel studs at
this point for both of the rear axles.  However, how does one actually
remove the wheel studs on a hub that is already installed?  I have a
Churchill tool, but if the studs are so buggered up that they won't hold a
tire on, I'm sure that the Churchill Hub Puller (also from Canley Classics)
won't do the trick.  Is there a special tool or technique?  I tried to
hammer the stud to no avail.

 

TIA

 

Dan Parrott

Savannah, Ga

1980 Triumph Spitfire PJ

1972/1978 Spit Six Project car Joseph
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Re: [Spits] CV-Joint driveshaft

2009-12-27 Thread Joe Curry
I don't know which CV-Joints your car has because there are a lot of cars
that they could have been taken from, but typically, one side of the CV
Joint has a rubber gaiter attached to it.  The piece is secured to the
axle shaft somewhat like the gaiters on steering racks (with a hose clamp).
If yours is like that, you can loosen the clamp and shoot a good quality
grease into the gaiter and tighten the clamp.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kevin Rhodes
Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2009 6:58 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] CV-Joint driveshaft

My car has the driveshaft with the big can-like cv-joint thing on one 
end and a regular U-joint on the other. How do you service that big 
joint? I assume it should have some grease in it or something? I've 
noticed that it has a good bit of play in it and lets out a clang on 
occasion

Kevin Rhodes
Westbrook, Maine
Freddy the mongrel Spitfire - still going strong after 15 years (!) 
of ownership 
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Re: [Spits] CV-Joint driveshaft

2009-12-27 Thread Joe Curry
Typically CV-Joints are easily replaceable.  Most have splines in the center
and is secured to the axle by a circlip.  The other side has a flange that
is bolted onto the CV-Joint and is splined on the other end so that it
slides onto the other shaft and likewise is held on by a clip.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2009 8:57 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] CV-Joint driveshaft

On 27 Dec 2009 at 20:57, Kevin Rhodes wrote:

 My car has the driveshaft with the big can-like cv-joint thing on
 one end and a regular U-joint on the other. How do you service that
 big joint?

I've always been told that those things can't be fixed.  However you 
could take it by a driveshaft shop such as works on trucks, have them 
weld on a new joint or do whatever they do.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmul...@rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
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Re: [Spits] CV-Joint driveshaft

2009-12-27 Thread Joe Curry
Not if he has CV-Joints on them!

Clive Averill has a CV-Joint upgrade to replace Rotoflex couplers on cars so
equipped and I am led to believe that there is a kit from Canley Classics
but that is all I know about that one.  The one from Clive uses VW Rabbit
CV-Joints.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2009 9:23 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] CV-Joint driveshaft

Joe Curry wrote:
 I don't know which CV-Joints your car has because there are a lot of cars
 that they could have been taken from, but typically, one side of the CV
 Joint has a rubber gaiter attached to it.
I'd guess he has the standard driveshaft found on all the Spits of that 
vintage.
There is no rubber boot, but I seem to recall that there is a threaded 
collar one
can coax off and apply grease to the joint.  It has been a while since 
I've worked
on one, most of my recent experience is with just the 2 U-joint shafts.

mjb.
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Re: [Spits] CV-Joint driveshaft

2009-12-27 Thread Joe Curry
HOLD ON!

I went back and re-read the original post and my British to English
translator has failed me.  Instead of reading (American) Driveshaft, I read
(British) Driveshaft which is the axle in US terminology.  

That said, I am now guessing that he is talking about the normal CV-Joint
that is stock on the later 1500 models.  That one to my knowledge is not
replaceable as I previously described.

If it were me and I had problems with that end, I would go ahead and have a
driveline shop replace the CV-Joint with another U-Joint yolk and properly
balance the unit.

Sorry for the misunderstanding.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2009 9:23 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] CV-Joint driveshaft

Joe Curry wrote:
 I don't know which CV-Joints your car has because there are a lot of cars
 that they could have been taken from, but typically, one side of the CV
 Joint has a rubber gaiter attached to it.
I'd guess he has the standard driveshaft found on all the Spits of that 
vintage.
There is no rubber boot, but I seem to recall that there is a threaded 
collar one
can coax off and apply grease to the joint.  It has been a while since 
I've worked
on one, most of my recent experience is with just the 2 U-joint shafts.

mjb.
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Re: [Spits] Spitfire acestry in the Miata?

2009-12-11 Thread Joe Curry
I believe the inspiration for the Miata was actually the Lotus Elan.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of s1500
Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 8:59 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Spitfire acestry in the Miata?

Randomly found this quote:

It has not been forgotten, of course. Aside from still having many fans the
world over, the Spitfire was a major inspiration for
  Mazda's MX-5 Miata a decade later. Mazda even used a Spitfire body for
stealth development testing of the Miata chassis -- a literal
fitting tribute to the TR's endearing little sister.

Is this true? If so, fascinating!
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Re: [Spits] Spitfire Differentials

2009-12-05 Thread Joe Curry
The early Spit Differentials as well as the Herald ones have 6 mounting
studs because they have a clamping plate on top of the spring instead of
that ridiculous rocker box which can only use 4 studs.  The Rotoflex diffs
also have 6 studs.

The Herald and other early diffs have a drain plug at the bottom.  This was
eliminated in later ones I assume to save a couple of bucks.  Some
industrious lads have tapped that boss and added a plug (a good idea in my
opinion.

The main difference in diffs that fit Spitfires in the size of the input and
output flanges.  The early ones and Herald diffs have a smaller flange.  The
later ones have the same size flange as the GT6 uses.

If you have a diff with 6 studs and larger flanges it is most likely from a
GT6.  To be sure you can check the serial number.

If it begins with FC, It came from a round tail Spit.
Of it has FH, it is a later Spit.
If it starts with the latter G, it is from a Herald.
If it starts with the letter K, it is from a GT6.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 8:57 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] Spitfire Differentials

On 5 Dec 2009 at 16:32, Matthew Milkevitch wrote:

 This afternoon I removed the differential from my '77 Spitfire,
 for it was getting very noisy under load.

Sure it wasn't just a U-joint?

 I noticed that one of them is different than the rest.  It has a
 drain plug on the bottom and it has 6 holes for the mounting studs.
 I'm assuming that this differential is from an early Spitfire.

I've never seen an early Spitfire diff so perhaps that's what it is.  
But most likely it is from a GT6.  The six studs is the clue.  The 
drain plug would have been added by a PO, not a bad thing.

 are all Spitfire differentials interchangeable?
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Re: [Spits] Rear Spring

2009-11-08 Thread Joe Curry
After I got this message, I took a look at the photos and I have to say that
I could not find anything wrong with the before photo.  The Late MkIV and
1500 are supposed to have a fairly radical negative camber for the swing
spring to work properly.  The After photo is definitely not correct with the
slightly positive camber stance.  

People often think that there is something wrong with the normal stance of
the square tail Spits.  I don't know what you did to achieve the positive
camber but I think that you should think about reversing something in order
to get it back to its Normal negative camber stance.

One thing that people often do is tighten everything up while the car is up
in the air and no load is placed on the spring.  This squeezes the bushings
so that when the car is lowered, it tends to want to stay in that position
rather than relaxing to its static state.

If you did that, I recommend loosening everything up and letting the car
down on the suspension and bouncing up and down on the rear end to let the
car settle.  Then crawl under it and tighten the suspension components while
it is under load.  It helps to have a lift for this task.

Cheers,
Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daniel Parrott
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 9:59 PM
To: 'Greg Stull'; 'Spitfire Group'
Subject: Re: [Spits] Rear Spring

It looks like you went from negative camber to positive camber!  Sure looks
better!


Daniel L Parrott

1980 Triumh Spitfire PJ
1972/1978 Triumph Spit-Six Joesph



-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Stull
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 4:11 PM
To: Spitfire Group
Subject: [Spits] Rear Spring

Hi,

I finished putting in the disks in the rear leaf spring Saturday. Sure made
an
improvement. The rear of the car now sits higher and the rear wheels don't
lean in as much.

Went on a ride this afternoon with my Dad to give it a test with two people
in
the car. It came down a little but it wasn't anything like before. I even
think it rides better. We took the Spit on some rough roads too.

Went down to show a friend who owns a Spitfire and he could tell the
difference as soon as I turned on his street. He couldn't believe the
difference. Now, he wished he would done it to his old leaf spring instead
of
buying a new one.

Now the next test is going to be time.

Greg
1978 Spitfire 1500

Here's a link to some pictures I took while working on the leaf spring.

http://picasaweb.google.com/gastul76/SpitfireSpring?feat=directlink
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Re: [Spits] Rear Spring

2009-11-08 Thread Joe Curry
Dennis,
The swing-spring that is installed on all square tail Spits is a pretty weak
affair and is prone to the sag that you describe.  Since there are fewer
leaves than the early Spits had and only the main leaf is solidly attached
to the diff, even a new spring will start to sag sooner or later. (more
likely sooner if you drive it a lot).

You can have it re-arched by a spring shop or reverse the direction so that
the sagging side is on the passenger side of the car and your weight will
balance it out if you are alone.

Several people have installed air shocks on the rear that can be pumped up
to increase the height of the car.  I suppose that is an option.  KYB shocks
are gas charged and help take some of the stress off the spring by
offsetting the load.  But never use them on the back of an early Spit
because the extra lift causes the rear camber to go Positive. 

Cheers,
Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dennis Reese
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 10:11 PM
To: Greg Stull
Cc: Spitfire Group
Subject: Re: [Spits] Rear Spring

I've been following this thread because my 1500 suffers from driver's  
side rear end sag and my next project is to fix it. I've been told to  
replace the spring itself, replace the shocks, do both,  
replace the front coils. I had planned to replace the spring, but  
after reading what Greg has done i wonder if that might be the  
solution. Any advice, thoughts from the experts?

Thanks,
Dennis

On Nov 8, 2009, at 6:11 PM, Greg Stull wrote:

 Hi,

 I finished putting in the disks in the rear leaf spring Saturday.  
 Sure made an
 improvement. The rear of the car now sits higher and the rear  
 wheels don't
 lean in as much.

 Went on a ride this afternoon with my Dad to give it a test with  
 two people in
 the car. It came down a little but it wasn't anything like before.  
 I even
 think it rides better. We took the Spit on some rough roads too.

 Went down to show a friend who owns a Spitfire and he could tell the
 difference as soon as I turned on his street. He couldn't believe the
 difference. Now, he wished he would done it to his old leaf spring  
 instead of
 buying a new one.

 Now the next test is going to be time.

 Greg
 1978 Spitfire 1500

 Here's a link to some pictures I took while working on the leaf  
 spring.

 http://picasaweb.google.com/gastul76/SpitfireSpring?feat=directlink
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Re: [Spits] Rear Spring

2009-11-08 Thread Joe Curry
Greg,
After reviewing all your photos, I have come to the following conclusions:

1. You have used spacers that are too large in diameter and in thickness.
This is causing the leaves to remain spaced apart and not allowing the car
to settle to it's designed negative camber stance.
2.  With the KYB shocks, the gas charging within them is adding to the
effect because they are taking load off the spring.

You might have the thing correct itself over a short period of time
depending on what the spacers are made of.  Because they are larger than the
dimples in the spring leaves, they might slip out and let the leaves come
back together as they should be.  If they are made of a material that will
abrade, they may wear down in short order so that the leaves are together as
they should be.

Please bear in mind that what unknowing people think is not correct is
entirely normal for late Spits.  Triumph increased the length of the rear
axles by an inch on each side without changing the length of the spring.
The effect was to radically change the camber to a negative condition and
that had the desired effect of helping dame the tendency of the rear end to
tuck the unloaded wheel in a hard turn.

I hope this dissertation is useful.

Joe


-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Stull
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 7:11 PM
To: Spitfire Group
Subject: [Spits] Rear Spring

Hi,

I finished putting in the disks in the rear leaf spring Saturday. Sure made
an
improvement. The rear of the car now sits higher and the rear wheels don't
lean in as much.

Went on a ride this afternoon with my Dad to give it a test with two people
in
the car. It came down a little but it wasn't anything like before. I even
think it rides better. We took the Spit on some rough roads too.

Went down to show a friend who owns a Spitfire and he could tell the
difference as soon as I turned on his street. He couldn't believe the
difference. Now, he wished he would done it to his old leaf spring instead
of
buying a new one.

Now the next test is going to be time.

Greg
1978 Spitfire 1500

Here's a link to some pictures I took while working on the leaf spring.

http://picasaweb.google.com/gastul76/SpitfireSpring?feat=directlink
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Re: [Spits] Rear Leaf Spring

2009-10-31 Thread Joe Curry
I used some thick Teflon washers I found at Home Depot.  They seem to last
longer than rubber.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Stull
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2009 7:09 AM
To: Spitfire list
Subject: Re: [Spits] Rear Leaf Spring

Are these bushings the little rubber discs that are between the leaves at 
either end of the spring?
Yes

Are they actually available?
Found them on E-Bay.

How long could a piece of rubber or plastic last, being rubbed between two 
spring leaves like that?
Probably not that long, but I'm going to find out.

Greg
1978 Spitfire 1500


- Original Message - 
From: Doug Braun d...@dougbraun.com
To: Spitfire list spitfires@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, October 30, 2009 9:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Spits] Rear Leaf Spring


 Are these bushings the little rubber discs that are between the leaves at 
 either end of the spring?  Are they actually available?  I have never
 taken my spring apart, and I always assumed that the bushings completely 
 disintegrated years and years ago.  How long could a piece of rubber or 
 plastic last, being rubbed between two spring leaves like that?

 Doug Braun
 '72 Spit

 --- On Fri, 10/30/09, Greg Stull gas...@roadrunner.com wrote:

 From: Greg Stull gas...@roadrunner.com
 Subject: [Spits] Rear Leaf Spring
 To: Spitfire Group spitfires@autox.team.net
 Date: Friday, October 30, 2009, 4:27 PM
 Note: I replied to Roger's post and
 the list, but it didn't get through. Or at
 least I didn't get it. So here it is again. If you get two
 messages that's
 why.

 Greg
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Re: [Spits] Overdrive part

2009-10-28 Thread Joe Curry
I assume you are talking about the A type OD.  If so, the Cam is part
number 159505 and is available through Rimmer Brothers in the UK.  It might
be available elsewhere.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Grant Buss
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 10:03 AM
To: spitfires-list
Subject: [Spits] Overdrive part

My friend is looking for a cam that drives the oil pump on the overdrive
for
his late (square tail) GT6. Where are can he get one??
I know nothing about it.
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Re: [Spits] Overdrive part

2009-10-28 Thread Joe Curry
Correction:  That should be :J-Type, not A-Type.

I assume you are talking about the A type OD.  If so, the Cam is part
number 159505 and is available through Rimmer Brothers in the UK.  It might
be available elsewhere.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Grant Buss
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 10:03 AM
To: spitfires-list
Subject: [Spits] Overdrive part

My friend is looking for a cam that drives the oil pump on the overdrive
for
his late (square tail) GT6. Where are can he get one??
I know nothing about it.
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Re: [Spits] Overdrive part

2009-10-28 Thread Joe Curry
The oil pump cam for a D-Type OD is part number 513216. Nigel at SpitBits
has one on the shelf.  His phone number is 1-800-201-0494.  Apparently this
is not a part that is normally available so various distributors may or may
not have them in stock.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Grant Buss
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 1:57 PM
To: spitfires-list
Subject: [Spits] Overdrive part

Sorry, it looks like I really don't know about it.
Turns out it is for a D type overdrive.
Thank you to all that answered. It is really great to see such a response.


My original message
My friend is looking for a cam that drives the oil pump on the overdrive
for
his late (square tail) GT6. Where are can he get one??
I know nothing about it.
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Re: [Spits] Spitfire 1500 differential

2009-10-18 Thread Joe Curry
It is pretty common for the bolt to be rusted in one or both bushing sleeves
inside the back mounting ears of the diff.  If this is the case, You might
have to resort to cutting through the bolt using a saws-all at the edges of
both the ears.  That will free the diff and allow you to get it out of the
car.

Then you will have to drive out the bushings and replace them and the bolt.
Be sure to use ample amounts of anti-seize compound when reassembling it.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Elliott
Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 11:05 AM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Spitfire 1500 differential

Hi,

I decided I was going to replace the front differential bushings on the 
Spitfire as I was having similar symptoms that my wife was having on her 
250.  (juddering in first and reverse went starting off).  Her probelm 
was corrected by the differential bushings.

It turns out you to do it with the differential in the cat you must 
remove the input, So I decided that I should break down and have the 
differential rebuilt as it leaks rather badly and whines.  Not sure how 
important the whining is as it has been doing it almost forever.

I have the differential almost removed.  But I have run into a problem.  
I can't get the long bolt that runs through the rear mounts out.  I have 
the nut off, but I can't get the bolt to budge.  I can't figure out a 
way to get any leverage on it.  The end of the bolt is pointed so even 
if I could get to the end any punch I have would slide off when I hit it 
with a hammer.  Of course there is no straight shot at it any way.

Any suggestions on how to get that bolt out?

Thanks,
Roger Elliott
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Re: [Spits] plastic tranny covers

2009-10-17 Thread Joe Curry
I have a PVC one in my red Spit and it fits and works well.  I insulated the
underneath by spraying Urethane foam (from an aerosol can purchased at Home
Depot).  That works well and can be trimmed with an electric knife (Just
don't tell the wife).

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2009 5:38 PM
To: trium...@autox.team.net; Spitfire list
Subject: [Spits] plastic tranny covers

I have plastic tranny covers in both the Spitfire and GT6.  IIRC, 
they came from different sources (Spitbits, TRF) but I may be 
mistaken.  As far as I noticed they are the same.  They've been in 
the cars for more than a few years.  Neither fit particuarly well, 
okay but not great for several reasons.  The GT6 cover is now 
slightly cracked in one spot.  And driving through severe rain and 
puddles for the CCBCC British Legends ride taught me the value of 
having a better fit to the firewall!

So I'm considering fitting another and doing it more carefully.  Any 
thoughts or experiences with them?  Is any vendor's better than 
another or are they all really the same from the same manufacturer?

Tanks,

Jim Muller
jimmul...@rcn.com
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Re: [Spits] Ah, the scent of optimism! Ebay listing

2009-10-11 Thread Joe Curry
I have several of these in my collection that I will take $10.00 each for.
Save $290!  :)

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daniel Parrott
Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 9:51 AM
To: Spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Ah, the scent of optimism! Ebay listing

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-Spitfire-GT6-1962-thru-1980-A-Arm_W0Q
QitemZ150372567423QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash
=item2302e7497f#ht_500wt_1182

 

I wish all of my spare parts could be sold for this much!

 

Dan Parrott

Savannah, Ga

1980 Triumph Spitfire PJ

1972/1978 Spit Six Project car Joseph
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Re: [Spits] a surprising fit for the throttle

2009-10-11 Thread Joe Curry
In the long run, it would probably be best to fit a cable linkage from a
late Spit and get rid of the mechanical linkage.  It makes the throttle much
more precise and lasts a whole lot longer.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 5:18 PM
To: Spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] a surprising fit for the throttle

My GT6 has always had an imprecise throttle.  I partly blame a PO's 
transplant of SU carbs whose mechanical arrangement may or may not be 
appropriate.  But partly it is because the big transverse shaft which 
runs across the car from driver to carbs has fit only loosely in the 
firewall hole on the right (carb) side.  It has never had a real 
bushing or grommet.  I've ordered two from Spitbits hoping they would 
be true bushings but their picture looks like a normal rubber grommet 
and it is labelled grommet.  Maybe that's all it is supposed to be; 
I've never look carefully at another car's.

So today I was cleaning up some stuff left over from last week's 
rainfest at CCBCC's British Legends show.  On my workbench was a 1 
long discarded piece of gas line.  The inner diameter looked to be 
exactly the diameter of the throttle shaft.  And the outer diameter 
looked to match the hole in the firewall as near as I could actually 
see it.  Since I rarely have as much time to work as I did today, I 
wondered if I could get this taken care of for the time being.  What 
the heck, let's see if it will fit...

Surprise, it fit exactly.  It took no persuasion to slip over the end 
of the shaft in the passenger's footwell and minimal persuasion to 
get to through the firewall.  Don't know how long it will last, but 
it can't be much worse than a rubber gromet.  It might have been made 
for that application.

Jim Muller
jimmul...@rcn.com
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Re: [Spits] [TR] Spitfire Complete 1197cc Engine and Box - SF, CA

2009-10-04 Thread Joe Curry
You mean 1147, don't you?

Joe

-Original Message-
From: triumphs-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Sinclair
Sent: Saturday, October 03, 2009 3:21 PM
To: trium...@autox.team.net; spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Spitfire Complete 1197cc Engine and Box - SF, CA

Hi, I have a complete 1197cc engine and gearbox available, on
Craigslist, here.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/pts/1405004927.html


Email me if you want more details or picture.

Thanks
Mark Sinclair
415-286-1578
San Francisco, CA
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[Spits] Camber Compensatora and VTR/ Triumphest

2009-09-24 Thread Joe Curry
If anyone going to The VTR/Triumphest event next week has been contemplating
the purchase of a camber compensator (early Spitfires, Mk1 GT6, Herald or
Vitesse-Sports 6), I will be bringing two units with me.  So you can avoid
shipping costs.

To reserve one, contact me by email.  First come first served.

Joe
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Re: [Spits] anyone replacing carpet?

2009-09-22 Thread Joe Curry
Jim,
Why not go to a local auto upholstery shop and see if they can match the
color and pile of the one you have.  I am sure that it will not be very
expensive.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 6:08 PM
To: Triumph list; Spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] anyone replacing carpet?

My GT6 needs some new carpet.  More specifically, most of the carpet 
is fine, old but with plenty of life left, but the section over the 
tranny tunnel was worn out long ago.  The main suppliers have carpets 
sets but they are rather expensive when you consider that I don't 
need much.  Nor do I want to go through the trouble of pulling and re-
glueing if I don't have to, which makes all those other pieces 
redundant twice.  Would any of you have a decent section of carpet 
for the tranny cover?  Black.  Thanks.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmul...@rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
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Re: [Spits] PPG Paint

2009-09-14 Thread Joe Curry
Are you sure about that code?  I don't find it listed in any of my
resources.  The closest thing I can fine is NCC (Aran Beige) 25024.

The White colors shown for 1980 are as follows:

Tudor (Pendelican) White79-80   NCF 215 90134
Leyland(Porcelain) White78-80   NMC 243 NAF 90106

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Elliott
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 7:18 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] PPG Paint

Hi
Does anyone have PPG paint information for 1980 Triumph Spitfire White NCG?

I went to a paint store to get some touch up paint and they can't find 
anything on this code. 

Thanks,
Roger
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Re: [Spits] Painting a Spit: Single-stage vs. BC/CC?

2009-09-11 Thread Joe Curry
I know that car!  It has a very good rev limiter, doesn't it Mark?

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Friday, September 11, 2009 8:13 PM
To: Spitfire list
Subject: Re: [Spits] Painting a Spit: Single-stage vs. BC/CC?

I prefer the single stage paints, usually in original factory colors.
They have the appropriate, oh, character for the cars.

Back when I was younger and more enthusiastic I had this idea
that I wanted three Spitfires - a street car, a show car and one to
race.  And I had a paint scheme in mind, using four factory
colors -  Delft Blue, Wedgewood Blue, Royal Blue ( a really dark
navy ) and Jasmine yellow.  I did get one car painted in the scheme
I had in mind, check out the bottom photo on the page at
http://fatchancegarage.com   The body is Jasmine, the LeMans
style nose strip is Delft, with a thin line of Wedgewood edging.
I did have a Mark 1 street car that I got started on, had a rough
coat of Delft on it to see if I really liked the color.  I did, well,
still do.

Never did get more than one Spit running at a time, but I did
manage to get the air tank to match:

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3t=18



mjb.
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[Spits] FW: [Fot] Last Chance Items.....Moving......

2009-09-07 Thread Joe Curry
I got this from the FOT list.  Someone please keep this GT6 Bonnet from
going to the crusher.  It is one part necessary in any Spit Six project.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: fot-boun...@autox.team.net [mailto:fot-boun...@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of fastrsixs
Sent: Monday, September 07, 2009 8:01 AM
To: f...@autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] Last Chance Items.Moving..

I have moved to VA and am making one last trip to FL. I have a good GT6 MK 
III bonnet that will go to the crusher unless some one claims it, if you are

near the I-95 corridor I could drop it off as I am coming through if you can

meet me near an exit. Also my TVR 2500M is not making the trip and is for 
sale. Another item of interest is a unfinished fiberglass boot lid for a 
early Spitfire. Let me know in the next two weeks if you have an interest.

Thanks,

Mike Perry
Email
fastrs...@bellsouth.net
Web Site
http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-mpperry
Message Board
http://members.boardhost.com/GT6-Spitfire 
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Re: [Spits] transmition

2009-09-01 Thread Joe Curry
Yes it will fit.  But it will not mate with the GT6 engine.  The GT6 Gearbox
has a 1 in diameter coarse splined input shaft that is significantly longer
than the smaller, shorter fine splined one on the single rail Spit tranny.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Grant Buss
Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 3:46 PM
To: spitfires-list
Subject: [Spits] transmition

Will a transmition from a 79 Spitfire fit in a GT6 ?? I don't know the year
but it is a round tail.
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Re: [Spits] OD question

2009-08-13 Thread Joe Curry
Since both are 1500 applications, it should be a direct bolt on.  The
obvious exception would be if someone in the intervening yearts has done
some mixing and matching.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of motorhead461
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 12:50 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] OD question

A friend in Texas needs a trans for his '76 Spitfire 1500 and 
found an OD trans from a '75. As both are behind a 1500 
is this a direct bolt in or might the mounts or drive shaft
be different ?
Thanks, Greg Myer
1977 Spitfire 1500 

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Re: [Spits] OD question

2009-08-13 Thread Joe Curry
Oh, I forgot to say. If he is replacing a non OD tranny with one that has
OD, he will need to install a different mounting bracket for the rear
transmission mount, a shorter driveshaft (or have his cut down) and the
proper wiring as well as an angle drive for the speedometer cable.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of motorhead461
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 12:50 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] OD question

A friend in Texas needs a trans for his '76 Spitfire 1500 and 
found an OD trans from a '75. As both are behind a 1500 
is this a direct bolt in or might the mounts or drive shaft
be different ?
Thanks, Greg Myer
1977 Spitfire 1500 

Turn life into a beach with a new sandbox. Click now!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTGaFLA89zFkfwmfxMAKPOLKwJj
r3qNuptRdJw8zGATlyD6inoA2Uw/
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[Spits] David Morrison

2009-08-06 Thread Joe Curry
Is David Morrison(from Lawrence, KS) on the list?  Or does anyone on the
list know him?  He has a '74 Spit and I need to contact him.

Thanks,
Joe
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Re: [Spits] Rear Axle Puller

2009-08-03 Thread Joe Curry
Far be it from me to say, I told you so.  But if you need another hub, I
have several.  I learned how flimsy they are when a Lexus SUV backed into
Huxley and resulted in not only the driver side door being bent but the
passenger side rear hub being deformed when the tire was pushed into the
curb.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Sinclair
Sent: Monday, August 03, 2009 5:10 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] Rear Axle Puller

Thanks to all those that replied.
I've ordered the Canley one, so we'll see how that goes.

Of course I couldn't resist, and was messing around with one of the
inner axle assemblies, and bent the flange plate slightly. Wishful
thinking that perhaps mine were mysteriously loose I guess.  Anyway, I
bent it back so that it looks stright - to the eyeball anyway.

Side note, the flange is very wimpy, bends like cardboard, don't even
bother with a regular puller.

Wondering if I should bother trying to reuse this on the vehicle?  If
the plate bends that easily I'm hoping that torque-ing it down to the
diff unit will keep it sealed - perhaps with a thicker gasket.  Had
anyone had success with this, or should I just plan to replace it?

Cheers
Mark Sinclair
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Re: [Spits] Wiring updates and so forth

2009-08-01 Thread Joe Curry
Get yourself a multimeter and measure the resistance between the point you
want to test and the battery negative terminal.  If it is reading zero ohms,
it is a good ground source.  If it is reading resistance, then you need to
find a better ground point.  All the body metal should be good grounding
points if your ground straps are installed properly.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ryan
Sent: Saturday, August 01, 2009 6:32 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Wiring updates and so forth

Anyways, question for the forum: Is that bolt connection on the steering 
column a worthy source of grounding? Both the radio  tach are grounded 
to it, and both have been a hassle for years.
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Re: [Spits] A trip to Wisconsin - radio wiring?

2009-07-29 Thread Joe Curry
Radio wiring is fairly simple.  There is an accessory terminal on the
ignition switch that will provide power in both the On and accessory
positions so you can run the radio even when the car is not running.  That
is where you want to put the radio power wire.

The speaker wiring is straight forward.  Most radios have both the hot and
return wires provided.  If yours has only the hot side, you can put the
speaker's negative side to ground.  

The only other thing to consider is if you are installing a modern radio,
you will probably have to provide an always on power source which is
necessary for keeping the radio presets (Stations and clock) energized.  It
will be a constant battery drain but not sufficient to really worry about.

Some modern radios also provide a wire to control electric antennas.  If
yours has this and you don't have an electric antenna, disregard that wire.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of s1500
Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2009 7:16 AM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] A trip to Wisconsin - radio wiring?

So, I decided to take a trip to Baldwin, Wisconsin to a paintball field 
to hang out with friends  such. Decided to take the Spitty down since I 
paid so much for insurance(okay, 300 bucks), I might as well get the 
most out of it.

Overall, things went pretty good. It used up more fuel than I wanted for 
a 30-mile trip, so I knocked the fuel pressure regulator down by a half. 
The result was quite a bit less fuel being used on the way back.

Hit a puddle on the dirt road out, and got stuck for a bit, but eased my 
way out. The only damage was a busted muffler mount that was rubber + 
rope construction. Time to make a metal one.

Day later, I bled out the rear brakes and found out the adjuster on the
rear right was seized, making brake tuning almost impossible. Some
greasing(a VERY light amount, clear of the pads) and it was going again. 
Now I just have to address the tranny fluid leak, or if it's just messy.

Anyways, my question for the forum: Any place I can get info on car 
radio wiring diagrams? My google searches so far have found nothing, 
with the wiring diagrams really not even mentioning a radio. I know 
there's pairs of wires for each of the 4 speakers(thus at least 8 
wires), but there's more for the power antenna(don't have), and such. 
It's a bit of a mess of wires down there and I want to sort them out to 
fix my volume problem once and for all. I'm from 4 speakers down to 2 as 
the PO's wiring job for the speakers wasn't up to par.
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Re: [Spits] Rear Axle Puller

2009-07-28 Thread Joe Curry
That tool works very well for bending Spitfire hubs!  You need the Churchill
tool to stabilize the hub while applying the pressure to the axle.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John T. Blair
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2009 2:18 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] Rear Axle Puller

At 04:38 PM 7/28/2009, Mark Sinclair wrote:

 I'm replacing some rear axles seals, starting with the inner axles
 assemblies.  I believe I need the same Churchill Tool, the puller, for
 the inner and outer axles.  Can anyone confirm this?
 
 Also, does anyone is there a source these days for the rear axle puller,
 a replica for the Churchill Tool?

Mark,

You might try somthing like this from Northern Tools:

Performance Tool Hub Puller and Installer Set, Model# W89324

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200354081
_200354081

It is similar though a little different shape.

I purchased a Craftsman version of this about 40 yrs ago and have used it
to pull Spit hubs over the years:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00971567000P?keyword=hub+puller

John



Failing that, does anyone know someone in the San Francisco Bay Area who
has done these.



Thanks

Mark Sinclair
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John T. Blair  WA4OHZ email:  jblair1...@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va
Phone:  (757) 495-8229

   48 TR180048 #4 Midget65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
  75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)77 Spitfire71 Saab Sonett III
65 Rambler Classic

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Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

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Re: [Spits] TR7 Wheels on a Spitfire

2009-07-13 Thread Joe Curry
Since I have never owned a TR7 (or TR8), I can't say.  That said, I
installed Chevy Metric Studs on The car that runs the 15 Panasports (for
obvious reasons).

Joe

-Original Message-
From: Clark W. Nicholls [mailto:cwn...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 12:31 PM
To: 'Joe Curry'; 'Doug Waldron'; 'Matthew Milkevitch'
Cc: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Spits] TR7 Wheels on a Spitfire

Is it true that the lug studs on the TR7 are larger diameter than on the
Spitfire but the bolt pattern is the same (thus the lug hole in the TR7
wheels are larger)?

This would infer that you need to be careful that the lugnuts, if simply
installing factory steel TR7 wheels on a Spitfire, are tightening on the
wheel and not on the axle flange, if you know what I mean. May need larger
acorn lugnuts.

I've never done this, only from what I've read .

Clark
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Re: [Spits] TR7 Wheels on a Spitfire

2009-07-12 Thread Joe Curry
I am running 15 TR7/8 Panasports on my Spitfire with no problems.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug Waldron
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 6:05 PM
To: Matthew Milkevitch
Cc: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] TR7 Wheels on a Spitfire

Hi,

I've run TR7 wheels on my '78 for years now. With 5.5 in wide rim I can 
run Yokohama R032 175/60/13 tires comfortably. I don't know of any 
performance tire that fits nicely on the stock Spitfire rim.

- Doug

Matthew Milkevitch wrote:
 Fellow Listers;
 A fairly recent post on this list mentioned that Triumph TR7 wheels will
fit a
 Spitfire, with some modifications to the lug holes. I addition, I found a
link
 on Paul Tegler's website that goes into more depth on this. 
 Today I mounted one of my TR7 wheels on my Spitfire and I really liked the
 look.  Also, the tire is wider than the stock Spit tire.  My question to
the
 list:  is anyone currently running TR7 wheels on their Spit?  And if so,
can
 you comment on any performance enhancement?
 Thanks for your opinions,Matt Milkevitch'77 Spitfire
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[Spits] Spitfire Database Milestone

2009-07-08 Thread Joe Curry
I just got finished with the monthly update of the Spitfire database and
have to announce that another milestone has been accomplished.

There are now over 12,000 spitfires listed.

Thanks to all the people who have sent in your data and for those Spit
owners who have not sent in your data, now is your chance to contribute to
the next milestone.

http://members.cox.net/spitlist/index.html

Cheers,
Joe Curry
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Re: [Spits] Swing Spring

2009-06-30 Thread Joe Curry
Alex,
Unless you are replacing the axles with longer ones from a later MkIV or
1500 as well, I think you are going to be disappointed with your results.
Triumph originally put the swing-spring in with the shorter axles but must
have found that it did not resolve the problems and then went to the longer
axles.

That is why the later cars have so much negative camber and the resulting
spring sag after a while.

You can resolve the wheel tuck problem using your original fixed spring by
adding one of my camber compensators and retain the normal stance of the
car.  It also will not have the sort of body roll that you will experience
with the swing-spring.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Nolan
Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2009 2:23 AM
To: Alex Cherington; spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] Swing Spring

No, they are not the same.  Don't know the exact differences in length.



- Original Message - 
From: Alex Cherington a_flying_scots...@yahoo.com
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2009 4:24 AM
Subject: [Spits] Swing Spring


I am looking at replacing my Mk3 Spitfire spring with a later swing spring.

I
 have the spring with the cage fitted with new pad and pivot bolt. I have
 fitted a later anti-roll bar. After I built up the spring I tried a stud 
 in
 the cage. The stud does not seem very long in that there doesn't seem to 
 be a
 lot of thread going into the top of the diff. Does anybody know if the Mk3
 studs are the same length as the MK4 How much of the stud thread should be
 screwed into the diff? Thanks
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Re: [Spits] Questions about an alternator conversion

2009-06-30 Thread Joe Curry
Andrew,
Here are the things I did to convert from Generator to alternator.

1. Get yourself a 3 prong plug for the alternator.
2. The top one with the Brown/Yellow wire needs to be connected to the
Brown/Yellow wire removed from the D terminal of the voltage regulator.
3. The heavy Brown wire in the middle terminal of the connector and the
lighter brown wire on the lower terminal of the connector both go to the
starter solenoid connector that is also attached to the battery positive
terminal (I am assuming that you have already converted to negative ground).
4. The Brown wire that is connected from the Ignition switch to the B
terminal of the regulator is connected to the same terminal of the starter
solenoid as the two wires in step 2 above.

That should get the thing to work properly.

Let me know if you have any further problems.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Lindeman
Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2009 2:27 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Questions about an alternator conversion

I recently replaced a broken generator with a Bosch alternator on my
1970 Mk. 3.  I followed the instructions on the VTR site about which
wires to tie together to eliminate the old voltage regulator, and have
the alternator itself installed and wired up.  The problem I'm having,
is that the alternator is not getting the signal to turn on.  I pulled
two wires off the back of the generator, a small brown/green wire, and
a large brown/yellow wire.  I have the large wire attached to the
battery positive lug on the alternator, and the brown/green wire
connected to the field positive.  If I jump the brown/green wire to
battery positive, the circuit starts charging.  When I take a look at
the voltage coming off the brown/green wire, I only get about two
volts.  Does anyone know what this voltage *should* be?  My multimeter
tells me that brown/green wire went to the old voltage regulator.
According to the VTR site, I tie together the small brown/green and
small brown/yellow wires from the voltage regulator box, which is
done.  Does anyone know where that small brown/yellow wire goes from
the voltage regulator circuit?  I do not have a wiring diagram.

Andy L.
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Re: [Spits] Questions about an alternator conversion

2009-06-30 Thread Joe Curry
One more thing, On my car, the plug does have the Indicator circuit on a
Brown/Green wire which is tied to the Brn/yellow wire that routes to the
Indicator lamp circuit.

Joe



-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Lindeman
Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2009 2:27 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Questions about an alternator conversion

I recently replaced a broken generator with a Bosch alternator on my
1970 Mk. 3.  I followed the instructions on the VTR site about which
wires to tie together to eliminate the old voltage regulator, and have
the alternator itself installed and wired up.  The problem I'm having,
is that the alternator is not getting the signal to turn on.  I pulled
two wires off the back of the generator, a small brown/green wire, and
a large brown/yellow wire.  I have the large wire attached to the
battery positive lug on the alternator, and the brown/green wire
connected to the field positive.  If I jump the brown/green wire to
battery positive, the circuit starts charging.  When I take a look at
the voltage coming off the brown/green wire, I only get about two
volts.  Does anyone know what this voltage *should* be?  My multimeter
tells me that brown/green wire went to the old voltage regulator.
According to the VTR site, I tie together the small brown/green and
small brown/yellow wires from the voltage regulator box, which is
done.  Does anyone know where that small brown/yellow wire goes from
the voltage regulator circuit?  I do not have a wiring diagram.

Andy L.
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Re: [Spits] screw-on battery terminals?

2009-06-01 Thread Joe Curry
The only thing that I would be concerned with is getting a battery with the
proper height to clear the recess of the battery box.  The last thing you
want to do is cause contact that would short out the battery.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of s1500
Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 11:41 AM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] screw-on battery terminals?

My Spit's battery finally bit the dust yesterday. After an attempted 
charging, it's not going to turn the starter motor over. I double 
checked the battery terminals, etc.

My question is this: How hard is it to use those newer type screw-on 
battery terminal posts with a Spit? Finding the positive cable 
replacement should be easy(it's a small cable), but I have found zero 
luck in finding a battery cable that also branches out to the ground so 
it ground out to the tranny bellhousing. Unless there's some separate 
cable I can mount on the screw terminal thing to use that for ground. If 
that's a no-no, please tell me.

I've realized that these old fashioned battery clamps are more of a 
hassle than anything.

Also, would this get in the way of the factory standard battery 
hold-down clamp?
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Re: [Spits] Caterham type trunnionless front suspension kit

2009-05-31 Thread Joe Curry
There doesn't appear to be any way to lubricate that ball joint, unless you
just squirt it with your oil can.  Although, I can't understand how it will
hold up without lubrication.  Normally, one would expect to see ball joints
covered by rubber to protect them from debris getting into the joint and
causing wear.

I would email the question to Canley Classics.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daniel Parrott
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 10:24 AM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Caterham type trunnionless front suspension kit

I purchased the Caterham type trunnionless front suspension replacement kit
(along with the neat-looking Caterham front hub and stub) from CanleyClassic
in the UK, and I'm about to begin the installation into my SpitSix project
car.  Here's the URL for a photo.

http://www.canleyclassics.com/image.pl?file=../data/uploadedpics/catkit1.jpg

Anyway, there doesn't appear to be anyway to lubricate the lower ball and
socket. Metal on metal bearings don't seem right.  Is lubrication needed?
And if so, how and what do I lubricate it with?

Thanks.


Dan Parrott
Savannah, Ga
1980 Triumph Spitfire PJ
1972/1978 Spit Six Project car Joseph
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Re: [Spits] Rear Wheel Stud Replacement

2009-05-22 Thread Joe Curry
Absolutely!  All you have to do is take off the brake drum and strip out the
brake shoes and attaching hardware,  The hub sticks out enough from the
backing plate so that getting the old lugs out and new ones in is quite
possible.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dee Jackson
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 3:44 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Rear Wheel Stud Replacement

Long time lurker seeking the collective wisdom of the list.

Long story made short, I had new tires put my Spitfire today, after about 15
years.  The tire place snapped off one of the right rear studs by
over-torquing it.  They've agreed to pay me for the stud and lug nut, and
have said they'd also replace it for me, although it's not bloody likely
I'll let them touch it again.  It's been a while since I've been into the
half shaft, but I'm thinking there's not enough room between the back plate
and the hub to get a new stud in, and that the Churchill tool, or a
reasonable facsimile, will be required.  Am I right?  Can this be done in
situ?  Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks,

Dee Jackson
Asheboro, NC
Spitfire FM90204UO
GT6 KF20632
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Re: [Spits] Leaf Spring Restoration

2009-05-22 Thread Joe Curry
If you go to Home Depot and browse the hardware section, you should be able
to find some nylon washers of the proper size.  They are cheap and you don't
have to do any fabrication.

But the disintegration of the bumpers does not account for the sag.  That is
caused by the very weak main leaf and the fact that it is the only leaf that
is fixed to the diff.  So it is what offers the major support for the car.
It is no coincidence that the sag is typically on the driver side before it
is noticed on the passenger side.


Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Elliott
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 4:45 PM
To: Daniel Parrott
Cc: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] Leaf Spring Restoration

I have been wanting to do something to rebuild my springs based on a 
couple of articles that I have read about replacing the rubber 
buttons.   Of course one of the authors made his out of brass the other 
out of nylatron(?) or polyurethane,  They both had access to lathes to 
do this.  However, I have not been able to find a source for the buttons 
even from a spring shop. Have you found a source?

I am guessing that the rubber disentegrating is a part of what causes 
the problem. If the rubber is gone, then you have removed a half an inch 
of height or so on the spring  I suspect that having a more resilient 
substance would help prevent the sag.

The other thing to consider as a mechanic pointed out to me just a 
couple of days ago, the Spit has a negative 2.75 - 4.75 degree camber 
specification. To a lot of people even that looks bad.

Roger

Daniel Parrott wrote:
 In my frame-off restoration of my Spit Six, I'm dissembling the rear leaf
 spring in order to replace the rubber buttons.  The leafs springs are
 being held by four brackets, two U shaped brackets with nuts and bolts,
 and two more with brackets that encircle the springs instead of bolts.  My
 Haynes manual says simply to bend the leaf clips to remove the leafs.
 Really?  The metal seems substantial and won't want to be easily bent
back.

 Also, the Rear leaf spring was pretty greasy.  I was able to disassemble
the
 first three leafs without much trouble.  But as I wire-brushed the top
leaf,
 I found a note that says FRONT, but I don't know which way the leafs
 should be reassembled.  Which way should these leafs face, not that I
 dissembled most of the rear leaf spring?


 TIA

 Dan Parrott
 Savannah, Ga
 1980 Triumph Spitfire PJ
 1972/1978 Spit Six Project car Joseph
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Re: [Spits] Rear spring

2009-05-21 Thread Joe Curry
Anyone wishing to restore the swing-spring from a MkIV or 1500 will probably
have the same experience.  This is because the springs are inherently weak
to start with and will ultimately start sagging much sooner than the springs
in the earlier Spitfires.  It is just the nature of the beast

Replacing them with new ones will solve the problem but it will sooner or
later come back.

My 2 cents worth,
Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stuart Greenwood
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 9:32 PM
To: parrotthea...@comcast.net
Cc: spitfires
Subject: [Spits] Rear spring

I took my rear spring apart during my restoration and cleaned the leafs up
and
fitted new buttons but it's not a success. The leafs were too tired.
restoring
them like you intend will be fruitless unless you are sure the leafs are OK.
Really the only way to tell is  if the car bottomed on the bump rubber when
going over a slight bump in the road with two up. I would say forget
restoring
them if this occurs.  As to the FRONT mark my memory is a bit hazy but I
think
that this is on the main leaf.. the one that has the eyes for the rubber
bushes. Front means to the front of the car of course. The other leaves I
beleive can be fitted either way round.
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Re: [Spits] Tonneau cover attachment

2009-05-21 Thread Joe Curry
I added Lift-the-Dot fasteners and they work great.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stuart Greenwood
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 9:50 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Tonneau cover attachment

I have an original factory tonneau which at the front has metal eye holes
where it slips of the pegs on the top of the dash.  But it tends to fly off
in
the wind. To me this can  only work if the tonneau is a tight fit so the
eyes
hold fast beneath the lip on the pegs.  Is this correct or am I missing some
kind of fastener?  Maybe like the ones used on some TR2/3s which have a
spring
clip  on each side of the part attached to the tonneau so the spring
compresses as it slips over the lip on the pegs and then snaps back  to grip
the peg

Stuart a Greenwood
71 Mk IV Spitfire, 71Mk 1 Stag
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Re: [Spits] Dolly or Trailer

2009-04-08 Thread Joe Curry
Definitely a trailer.  You don't want to do any more damage to the
differential or tranny by running them with the possibility of water in
them.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Todd Bermudez
Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 6:39 AM
To: NASS Spitfire; Spitfire List
Subject: [Spits] Dolly or Trailer

Hi all,

I'm going about 5 hours from the house to pick up a '71 GT6.  I'm told it
was flooded in this past winters floods.  It has had silt in the interior.
That said, it's still in pretty good shapebodywise.  The question is, do
I trailer it or dolly it home.  The cheaper route is the dolly.  The trailer
is 20' long  really puts a hurting on your body after a while...tends to
bounce the truck a lot.  I'm leaning toward the dolly.  

What are the thoughts out there?  I'm thinkin' it would be a wise move to
grease the axles in the back.  I'm assuming this car is a rotoflex
suspension.  Are there grease fittings near the brake backing plates like
there are on the solid axle cars?  

I am planning on bringing a set of good rims/tyres to install as well as
grease, tools...etc.

Cheers,

Todd Bermudez #596
Cincinnati, OH
'68 GT6 RHD
'66 GT6 RHD
'67 GT6 LHD
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Re: [Spits] clutch hydraulics query

2009-03-26 Thread Joe Curry
I had this problem with the front brake cylinder on Tiny Tim after I
installed the Tilton balance bar.  What was happening was the piston was not
being allowed to come far enough forward to relieve the pressure in the
line. As a result, after a few cycles of braking, the pressure would build
up and lock the pads to the rotors.

Cracking the bleed valve was enough to reset the system, but redoing the
push rod on the master cylinder was required to fix the problem.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jimmul...@rcn.com
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 12:15 PM
To: trium...@autox.team.net; Spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] clutch hydraulics query

I drove my GT6 in to work this morning.  I'm happy to report that the
gearbox worked just fine.

I must report unhappily that the clutch is more needy, which is to say less
clutchy.  It's a problem I've wrestled with before.

As I'm driving it seems to build pressure in the hydraulics so that
eventually the clutch slips.  The quick fix is to crack open the nut where
the line goes into the master cylinder, allowing a teaspoon or so of clutch
fluif, which is to say brake fluif to escape.

It did this a few days ago on a brief drive.  It did it again this morning
while I was tooling down the highway.  A common condition for most occasions
that I recall is that it was cold when I started out.  And I suspect that if
I mash the pedal down too hard it can bring on this condition.  Or least not
mashing it hard seemed to have avoided it for a long time.

I'd suspect a sticky slave cylinder except that this morning it seemed to
have come on when I wasn't using the clutch at all.  At least not that I
recall.  Okay, maybe once.  An alternate stickiness factor could be the
clutch arm scraping against the tunnel cover.  I can check it but it's one
of those space-age plastic covers with no dangling insulation underneath, so
I doubt this possibility.  It really seems to correlate to heat.

So the question:  Is there evidence to suggest that brake fluif expands
noticeably with moderate heat?  (It isn't getting especially hot.)  Perhaps
older fluif that might have absorbed water sitting even in an opened once
but tightly sealed container?

Of course, the obvious fix is just to purchase new cylinders, clear out the
line, then use DOT5.  Spitbits lists the SC at about $50, the MC OEM for
about $150 and MC repro for about $65, IIRC.

tanks,
Jim Muller
'70 GT6+
'80 Spitfire
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Re: [Spits] clutch hydraulics query

2009-03-26 Thread Joe Curry
The clutch master is identical to the brake master on early Spits (except
the brake master has a larger reservoir).  The relief mechanism is simply
that the piston has to come all the way back to its resting position.  This
allows the line to bleed back into the reservoir and the pressure
dissipates.

So it this is not happening, something is restricting it.  Could be that
something is worn inside the master cylinder or the petal is being
restricted in some way.

If it is the master, it is not all that expensive to rebuild it unless the
bore is extremely worn or pitted.  Mechanical restrictions are probably much
easier to fix.

When I experienced this in my brake system, it was caused by my inattention
to detail when I added the Tilton brake bias system.  I had to build new
rods and did not allow enough play to let the piston come to the normal
resting position.  A little grinding resolved the problem very quickly.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jimmul...@rcn.com
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 1:33 PM
To: Spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] clutch hydraulics query

Thanks to all who responded so quickly.

 ...preventing the pedal from coming up all the way.

The problem I have with this explanation (and all similar) is that if the
pedal doesn't come up all the way it would also start its next journey down
from that same depressed position.  (My clutch pedal is depressed?  Should
it see a therapist?)  Displacement at one end equals displacement at the
other, and the total volume in the system shouldn't change unless one moves
and the other doesn't.  On the other hand, I can't discount all y'all's
experiences either.  they certainly fall in with Dave M's suggestion that
the fluif return valve isn't working.

Time for new hydraulics unless I happen to have rebuild kits already on my
shelf and the cylinder bores are in good shape.  In any case, I really
needed one more thing to do. :-)

Tanks again!
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Re: [Spits] Rear Vertical Link

2009-03-18 Thread Joe Curry
Dan,
If you look at the photos in this link:
http://members.cox.net/spitlist/VetteDiff.htm
You will see how I have mine attached.  See if that correlates to what you
have.

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daniel Parrott
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2009 1:52 PM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net; n...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Spits] Rear Vertical Link

In tearing down my Spit Six project, I think that I found a problem.  In my
car, the vertical link for the rotorflex GT6 has the wishbone attached to
the lowest point on the vertical link, with the radius arm and shock
attached to the vertical link that is just above, about   2 inches higher.
However, VB, SpitBits, Moss Motors, Rimmer Brothers, and even Haynes, all
show that the radius arm attaches to the vertical link at the lowest point.
I thought maybe that a DPO got it wrong and attached the wishbone at the
wrong location.  However, the opening of the wishbone will only fit the
width of the vertical link at the lowest hole.   I have a new set of
aluminum wishbones and they match the configuration of the old cast iron
wishbones.

 

Did I find a mistake in all of the reference materials?  Could someone with
a GT6 with the rotorflex rear end confirm just where the vertical links are
to be attached?

 

TIA.   

 

Dan Parrott

Savannah, Ga

1980 Triumph Spitfire PJ

1973/1978 Spit Six Project car Joseph
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[Spits] Looking to buy Early Spit

2009-03-10 Thread Joe Curry
I have an acquaintance who is looking for an early Spitfire that is running
and ready to drive.  It does not have to be a show car but a driver that can
be tinkered with while driving.

He wants one that is 1967 or earlier because of emissions issues where he
lives.  He will travel to one of the following states to purchase:
Nevada, California, Arizona, New Mexico, Oregon, Washington, Utah, Colorado.

If anyone has something that fits these requirements, Let me know and I will
pass on your information.

I have no financial interest in this transaction.

Regards,
Joe Curry

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Re: [Spits] Order of panel replacement

2009-02-25 Thread Joe Curry
I'd rip out all the bad metal and install in the logical order, which
probably means:

Inside sills
Outside sills
rear panel

Joe

-Original Message-
From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of scotts junk
Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 11:30 AM
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] Order of panel replacement

Seeking the wisdom of the list:



My wife's Mk3 Spit needs the passeger side rear wing and sills (inner,
middle
and outer panels) replaced. Which is the best order to proceed? Remove and
replace the wing first, then do the sills or the other way around? Or does
it
matter as long as the alignment is all kept in spec?



cheers

Scott

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