Re: [Spits] High back Spitfire seat
If it were my friend, I would counsel against removing the headrests. With no headrests, in the event of an accident there is a much higher likelihood of severe damage to the neck and back, or even death. This applies equally to the passenger as well as the driver of a car without headrests. We need to keep as many Spit drivers (and their loved ones) as possible to keep the hobby alive. We may not be able to retrofit crush zones and airbags, but at least we should be able to advise against removal of the basic safety items that exist in our cars. Sorry that doesn't answer your question directly, but it is an honest, accurate response. Regards, Nick Moseley __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 9444 (20140219) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] pertronix
Dave, (I assume that is your name...) The best way is to order based on the distributor that is actually in your car, as opposed to the one with which it was originally fitted. Most distributors have the maker name and model numbers stamped on the outside. For the Lucas ones, it is often on the side that faces the engine, so you might have to free off the securing fitting and turn the dizzy until you can see it. Sometimes a mirror helps. Having had some experience of getting Pertronix units that did not fit the distributor I had ordered it for, you might consider getting one of the units for sale that include a new dizzy along with the, fitted, electronic ignition. Sometimes these can be had for as little as $160. or so, and considering the age of the original dizzy and its related parts and springs, the price difference and value of all new parts make this the smarter long term buy. It also means you could convert the one you have now back to points, and keep it as a spare in case of problems with the new one. Just my opinion... Nick Moseley -Original Message- From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2014 2:57 PM To: spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] pertronix hi. have a 75 spit; was converted to allison ignition which is pretty dead. I want to order a pertronix, but it appears there are numerous choices. how do I choose __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 9294 (20140115) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Customer Contact From Victoria British Website
Well put Dennis, and well down for giving some valuable feedback. Best Regards Nick Moseley -Original Message- From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dennis Reese Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2014 12:18 PM To: customerc...@longmotor.net; Spitfire Group Subject: [Spits] Customer Contact From Victoria British Website Not long ago I purchased two wheel bearing kits for my 75 spitfire 1500 your p/n 5-925. In the process of installing using the original hubs and your kit, it became apparent that the supplied oil seal wasn't going to work. The metal shell diameter is slightly larger than the hub diameter and therefore cannot be inserted in the hub. It is also made of very thin metal that will easily deform under any kind of pressure either from a press or by tapping with a hammer. Apparently this has happened to other spitfire owners as several responded to my plea for advice by saying that I should cut the felt out of the supplied seal and glue it into the original shells. I did that and it worked but the fact remains that you are apparently selling a part that won't fit the original hubs (maybe new hubs are slightly different?). Most of us know to not throw away original parts just for this reason and garages are full of them. I've attached a couple of pictures for your information. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpg which had a name of DSC_0501.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpg which had a name of DSC_0502.jpg] ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/nmose...@telus.net __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 9279 (20140111) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 9279 (20140111) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Spit manifolds removal
John, I feel your pain, most especially my knuckles are tingling. I have an open-end wrench of the correct size, where I ground down the other end (the round end) enough that I was able to get the wrench behind the metal coolant pipe to get at those nuts. One has to turn the wrench front to back several times during the process as you may only be able to get an eighth of a turn at a time. On some of my cars, those nuts were the longer versions, which made them easier to remove. In my experience at least, the dowels were a non-issue once all the nuts were removed. Application of a penetrating fluid like PB Blaster may help, and enable you to turn them by hand once you've freed them off. Hope that helps Nick Moseley -Original Message- From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Henard Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 12:30 PM To: spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Spit manifolds removal Wise (and less frustrated) ones,I am trying to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds on a '71 and not having much luck. All the manuals/books I have are vague. I have removed:main nuts along the top of the intake offend studs at either end of the exhaust manifoldnut (but not stud) securing the intake to the exhaust manifoldstuds have been snapped at the exhaust down flangeTwo things that appear to be hanging on:dowels in the top of the intake flanges - not sure how to removetwo more main nuts under the intake holding the exhaust to the head (can't get to these yet)What am I missing or how do I remove the two things above if that is all that is left? Suggestions? Thanks, --John Henard __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 8247 (20130419) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] FW: Spit manifolds removal
Not necessarily, but you have to remove all the nuts before you can remove either manifold. The knobs under the nuts are pressing on one side against the exhaust and on the other side against the intake manifold flanges. Nick M From: John Henard [mailto:johnhen...@hotmail.com] Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 2:21 PM To: Nick Moseley; spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Spits] Spit manifolds removal Nick, Does that mean the intake and exhaust have to come out together as one unit? --John Henard From: nmose...@telus.net To: johnhen...@hotmail.com; spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Spits] Spit manifolds removal Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2013 14:15:49 -0700 John, I feel your pain, most especially my knuckles are tingling. I have an open-end wrench of the correct size, where I ground down the other end (the round end) enough that I was able to get the wrench behind the metal coolant pipe to get at those nuts. One has to turn the wrench front to back several times during the process as you may only be able to get an eighth of a turn at a time. On some of my cars, those nuts were the longer versions, which made them easier to remove. In my experience at least, the dowels were a non-issue once all the nuts were removed. Application of a penetrating fluid like PB Blaster may help, and enable you to turn them by hand once you've freed them off. Hope that helps Nick Moseley -Original Message- From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Henard Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 12:30 PM To: spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Spit manifolds removal Wise (and less frustrated) ones,I am trying to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds on a '71 and not having much luck. All the manuals/books I have are vague. I have removed:main nuts along the top of the intake offend studs at either end of the exhaust manifoldnut (but not stud) securing the intake to the exhaust manifoldstuds have been snapped at the exhaust down flangeTwo things that appear to be hanging on:dowels in the top of the intake flanges - not sure how to removetwo more main nuts under the intake holding the exhaust to the head (can't get to these yet)What am I missing or how do I remove the two things above if that is all that is left? Suggestions? Thanks, --John Henard __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 8247 (20130419) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 8247 (20130419) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 8247 (20130419) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Windshield installation tips?
Doug, I'm no expert but will speak from the experience of having successfully installed one windshield. IMO, you should not need to use additional sealant. If you are installing the chrome (or plastic) trim strips, I understand you are far better to install them before installing the windshield. I used the rope trick to pull the edge of the seal/gasket into the cabin. One thing I would do differently is to feed the rope such that the join is at the top, rather than the bottom of the windshield, as the last 4 inches of seal was not pulled in by the rope, and it would have been easier to access the gasket had it been at the top of the windshield. Good luck, your Spit looks fantastic! Nick Moseley __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 7643 (20121030) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Intermittent miss turns out to be fuel tank debris
Thanks Mark, I won't be tossing the spare tank anytime soon, as the spare may be used as the primary. The current spare has rusty innards, but no leaks, while the primary had clean looking innards, but a pinhole leak. Out of curiosity, roughly how much were you charged for Triumph tanks? Nick Moseley From: ede...@aol.com [mailto:ede...@aol.com] Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 5:36 PM To: spitfires@autox.team.net; nmose...@telus.net Subject: Re: Intermittent miss turns out to be fuel tank debris Nick: Something else to consider before junking your old tank would be to take it to a good radiator shop and have them boil it out and then patch any holes. I have had this done very reasonably on several Triumph and Jaguar tanks. They also treat the inside as well. This is a much more robust and permanent solution than any tank sealer product [which usually requires you to thoroughly clean out the tank before using anyway] I have ever tried. In the long run cost effective also. Cheers! Mark 78 Spit/6 74 Spit/6 73 1500 68 MkII 64 GP #42 __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 7382 (20120813) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 7382 (20120813) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Intermittent miss turns out to be fuel tank debris
Firstly, sorry to those of you for whom this is a cross post. Here's the question, below is the story: -what are the groups' experiences with which fuel tank sealers? The reviews on Eastwood's site on their kit do not bode well. The story to date: I've been chasing an intermittent miss on my 80 Spit. The issue seems to have been clouded by a tach that jumps about at around 4700 rpm. The real issue though, is that the engine cuts out for periods of between 1-3 seconds after sustained running, or even bursts up to and over 5,000 rpm. In the latest incident, the engine did not restart, and I coasted off the slalom course. There is a clear fuel filter near the carb, which was empty of debris and of fuel. Eventually, cranking the engine to actuate the (new) fuel pump filled the filter bowl and fed the carb, enabling a re-start. Today, I pulled the fuel tank, and found a leak, and debris in the bottom of the tank. That leads to a possible conclusion that the debris was blocking the fuel line. This would agree with the symptom where the intermittent running often occurred after a fuel fill up. (Ain't 20/20 hindsight wonderful!?). Having pulled away the tank cover in the trunk, a very slow drip of fuel was leaking, which explains the aroma of gasoline. Is there any sense in getting a tank sealer kit, or would I be better to just get a new tank? The POR kit is $72 or so, and a new tank is $200. I have a couple of older tanks here, and none is close to pristine. Many thanks for your thoughts and experiences Nick Moseley __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 7379 (20120812) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Fuel pump installation
Thanks for the reply Jim. I don't know what they changed, but knew that the later style pumps need a spacer block between block and pump. It was duly installed. The arm on the pump that broke is flimsy compared to that on the pump it was going to replace. Discussion with the shop that sold me the pump suggests that I had it installed correctly. Both Haynes and Bentley manuals say the same thing about having the pump arm run on top of the cam in the block. Nick Moseley -Original Message- From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 9:00 AM To: Spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Fuel pump installation Sorry I didn't catch all the of the original question, but I recall it being about breaking the pump actuator arm. Some time between '76 and '80 they changed something in the block which required a different pump. Ask me how I know? I have a '76 engine in a '80 car, and TRF sent me a pump appropriate for the '80 they knew about. I didn't realize at the time that there was a difference and they didn't ask. I mounted it and it broke immediately. If you're having fuel dump out of the float vents then maybe your float valves are sealing properly. Jim Muller jimmul...@rcn.com ___ __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 7307 (20120717) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Fuel pump installation
Sorry for the cross-post. My question is how does one install the arm of a fuel pump in a later Spit? I have an 80 Spit in which I installed a new fuel pump. This is the pump designated for the later cars (78 and later), along with a spacer block, which was duly installed. Haynes manual says to be sure to place the arm such that it lies on top of the camshaft eccentric and not underneath it. I took that to mean the arm has to be threaded into the hole in the block until it makes contact with the cam, and then the pump can be returned to it correct vertical position and installed against the block. (This means that the studs have to removed from the block in order to manipulate the pump this way to get the arm into that position). Put another way, this means the arm is running on the outside of the cam (so between the cam and the wall of the block), and no part of it runs underneath the cam. The arm of the new pump broke. Did I have it installed correctly but it was a bad part, or should I have acted counter to Haynes, and had the arm run on the inside of the cam? I've re-installed the old pump, which has a different style arm, and will order a new pump, but would like to be sure I am installing it the correct way before risking another $50 pump. Many thanks Nick Moseley __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 7301 (20120715) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] ignition switch??
I used a circular cut off blade in a Dremel tool to create slots, as Lorne specifies. A lot easier than a hacksaw or file. Hope that helps Nick Moseley -Original Message- From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Windows Live Team Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2012 5:47 PM To: dennis_re...@wavecable.com; spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] ignition switch?? Dennis, Cut a slot in the break off bolts and take the whole thing off. Then do as you planned with the switches. I did this to my TVR and it has been great. No key to loose. And who would steal a British car. They stand out in a crowd. Lorne __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 7222 (20120614) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Late 1500 (78-80) grill opening
Two pics attached, yellow car is a 76, green is 81. Width is dictated by the frame rails, which might be kind of tough to change. What year bumper are you running, and what air dam? My 81 has stock air dam with attached shrouding under radiator. The rubber bumper integrates slats for additional cooling, as well as the air dam with shrouds. Regards Nick Moseley -Original Message- From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Aaron Johnson Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2012 10:34 AM To: spitfires Subject: [Spits] Late 1500 (78-80) grill opening Could anyone out there with a '78-80 spitfire 1500 take a picture from the front head in to show what the grill under the bumper looks like and measure the height and with of the opening for me? At the last race the stewards questioned the opening on the front of my car and I'm looking for some validation from a stock 1500. Aaron Johnson #87 H-Production spitfire 1500 Southern Illinois Region SCCA ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/nmose...@telus.net __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 7201 (20120606) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 7201 (20120606) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Spits Noses 002.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Spits Noses 001.jpg] ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] High Beam Failure
Gary, something to check that will cost only time, is the grounding in the area. Clean up the ground connection to the bolt on the steering box, and the Lucas connectors for the grounds to the lights. If the ground connection is really bad, I've been told the lights can try to ground through another active circuit on the way to a better ground. Although, if the battery is boiling, that points strongly to the alternator controls, and would be worth resolving before you need both an alternator as well as a new battery. Nick Moseley __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 6279 (20110709) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] (no subject)
Me three... Nick Moseley -Original Message- From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2011 11:29 PM To: 'Bill Gingerich'; 'Douglas Braun'; spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] (no subject) Me Too! Joe -Original Message- From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Gingerich Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2011 9:32 PM To: 'Douglas Braun'; spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] (no subject) I'm still here as well. My '74 is waiting for the snow to melt, and for enough rain to wash most of the salt off the roads. MN like their highways well seasoned. BillG Hastings, MN -Original Message- From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Douglas Braun Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2011 9:25 AM To: spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] (no subject) So, somebody else is still here! My car lives on: last week I reinstalled the twin SU carbs on my Spit. I had removed them and reinstalled the stock Stromberg a few years ago to pass an inspection, and had never gotten around to putting them back on. Then yesterday I did the annual Removal of the Hardtop, and now it's hanging from the garage ceiling. Doug Braun '72 Spit On Sun, Mar 20, 2011 at 8:23 AM, Dave Simpson dr_simp...@live.com wrote: test David R Simpson ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/b...@gingerich.us ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/spitl...@cox.net ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/nmose...@telus.net __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5972 (20110321) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5972 (20110321) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Bonnet and radiator cap
John, the front end height of the bonnet can be adjusted by first removing the front bumper-ettes (aka the boobs in front of the bumper) then adjusting the height of the bolts holding the bonnet hinge tubes. Nick Moseley __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5674 (20101204) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Stuck Rear Trunion Bolt
Matt, we've been there etc. There is a metal bushing surrounding that bolt, within the trunnion. Usually the bushing rusts to the bolt, and it's a bear to get out. If a few cycles of heat and cold don't let you break it loose, then use a hacksaw to cut both sides of it, then once removed, take the remnants to a hardware store and get a replacement bolt and nut. Save the bushing, or install a trunnion repair kit. HTH Nick Moseley -Original Message- From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Matthew Milkevitch Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 3:42 PM To: spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Stuck Rear Trunion Bolt Fellow Listers; I hope everyone has had a pleasant day enjoying their Spitfires. The weather today in the Phila PA region has been very nice for top-down motoring. While working on my Spitfire's rear suspension, I have encountered a very stuck left rear trunion bolt. I've banged on it a while and it refuses to budge. My next idea is to heat the bolt and see if it will come free. Does anyone else have a suggestion to free up this bolt? If it won't come free I'll be forced to look for a used unit. If I remember correctly, another lister also encountered this problem very recentlyso perhaps there's someone out there with some ideas for this issue. Thanks for your help, Matt Milkevitch'77 SpitfireWillow Grove, PA USA __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5018 (20100411) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Triumph World Availability (USA)
Doug, I'm not in the USA, but close, and I subscribe. TW now appears on the shelves of Chapters in Canada regularly, but that often wasn't the case. It may well be that some people buy the mag when it's a good issue. If you don't get there soon enough, this means that you lose out on those good issues. After due consideration, I concluded that I enjoyed reading the mag every month, even the less than stellar editions, and it was worth guaranteeing that I got one, hence the decision to subscribe. Nick Moseley Metro Vancouver, BC __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 4989 (20100331) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Hard top hoist
I am using two of these, to keep two bonnets up and out of the way. http://www.princessauto.com/farm/storage/storage/8093650-50-lb-dual-pulley- lift They've been modified by using aircraft cable to replacing the flimsy rope with which they came, and some wire was used to secure the bonnets to the grips at each end. Even with replacing the rope with cable, it seemed good value for the pulley hardware and ends, as they create a mechanical advantage so you don't end up doing a Wile E Coyote trick being lifted off the ground, as the bonnet comes crashing down. Nick Moseley, NASS #278: 63-81 Spits, GT 6, Metro Vancouver B.C. -Original Message- From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Elliott Sent: Sunday, November 29, 2009 5:42 PM To: spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Hard top hoist Hi Everyone, Is anyone using a hoist to lift and store their Spitfire hard top? If so, what hoist are you using? Thanks, Roger Elliott ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as arch...@jab.org Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] Ah, the scent of optimism! Ebay listing
It looks like someone is having fun with a plating kit, perhaps after recent discussions on another list. $300 seems, excessive, but there is provision for making an offer! Nick Moseley, Metro Vancouver B.C. -Original Message- From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 10:14 AM To: 'Daniel Parrott'; Spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Ah, the scent of optimism! Ebay listing I have several of these in my collection that I will take $10.00 each for. Save $290! :) Joe -Original Message- From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daniel Parrott Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 9:51 AM To: Spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Ah, the scent of optimism! Ebay listing http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-Spitfire-GT6-1962-thru-1980-A-Arm_W0Q QitemZ150372567423QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash =item2302e7497f#ht_500wt_1182 I wish all of my spare parts could be sold for this much! Dan Parrott Savannah, Ga 1980 Triumph Spitfire PJ 1972/1978 Spit Six Project car Joseph You are subscribed as spitl...@cox.net Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as nmose...@dccnet.com Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as arch...@jab.org Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] Transmission installation
I second that experience. (In my experience, trying to center it by eye almost never works.) The last time I did this, the alignment tool that had been purchased since the time before, had gone on walk-about. I used a 3 foot or so wooden dowel, with rounds of masking tape where it went through the disk, and then used a carpenters' square to get 90 degrees on the dowel at 12, 6, 3, and 9 o'clocks, getting the disk in the right spot. The correct tool would have been much better, but at least this got the job done. Hours and hours, and much back pain, had been of no avail. Nick Moseley, NASS #278: 63-81 Spits, GT 6, Metro Vancouver B.C. -Original Message- From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug Braun Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 11:16 AM To: Spitfires@autox.team.net; cculle...@cogeco.ca Subject: Re: [Spits] Transmission installation Did you have the clutch taken apart? If so, did you use the proper alignment tool to get the clutch disk centered when you reassembled it? In my experience, trying to center it by eye almost never works. Doug Braun '72 Spit ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as arch...@jab.org Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] (late) Spitfire sighting: Top Gear
Jim, there was a least one purple Spit. Would it have been called Damson? At any rate, I have a bonnet that had since been repainted BRG, but the original purple blazed out in pride from beneath the side marker assembly once that assembly had been removed. Nick Moseley, ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as arch...@jab.org Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] Foggy windows
If you drive a lot in the rain, you might want to get one of the factory hardtops. They have side-opening windows, so that you can open them for ventilation but not get streams of water in. As well, you can do what I did. I had the same problem, when running a Spit all year, so went to FLAPS and got generic rear window heater wire matrix. Stuck on, hooked up, turned on, no problems! Nick Moseley, ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] Wiring updates and so forth
...and more bleeding. If you are absolutely sure there is no air in neither the lines nor the master, then it may be time to check the rubber brake lines, to make sure they have not collapsed internally Nick Moseley, NASS #278: 63-81 Spits, GT 6, Metro Vancouver B.C. Ryan wrote: I still get a bit of the 2 stage braking, but... Don't know what kind of brake work you did but that sounds like you might want to tighten up the rear adjusters. -- Jim Muller jimmul...@rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] Stupid question number 56
Hector, thank you. The floor and rocker parts are the same, so that should be OK. In theory, it might indeed be better to use all-new panels. I want to do the 63 justice. However, I've been without a job since mid-October, so the cost of the new panels is quite important. As well, I have all these panels, in good shape, on another tub. If sold, that tub might make as much as $1,000., which would be less than the cost of the new ones with shipping. If the transplant would work, it would save some $s, and save me the time and trouble of finding a buyer for the tub. It has been advertised before, with no bites. Somewhat surprising, given the climate here. Nick Moseley, Metro Vancouver B.C. -Original Message- From: agostin...@earthlink.net [mailto:agostin...@earthlink.net] Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 4:31 PM To: Nick Moseley Subject: Re: [Spits] Stupid question number 56 Hi there As far as I know, the floorpans and sills are the same for the roundtails as they are for the square tales. I have used the same floor pans and sills for both my Spit III (roundtail) and GT6 Mk III (squaretail). I have done both sills (inner, middle, outer) on the Spit and the left sill (outer) on the GT6. I have also done the full left floorpan for the Spit and front floorpan (originally meant for the Spit) on the GT6. The key is to get good quality parts which fit up better than not so good parts. Is it really worth cutting out the parts of the squaretail and transplanting them to the roundtail? It might be faster and easier to get new quality parts since they would line up properly and be easier to weld in. You may want to check around some more. Hope this helps, Regards Hector ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Stupid question number 56
An early round-tail, a 63, found its way into my yard. Not surprisingly, it needs new floors and inner, middle, and outer sills. I happen to have a squaretail tub, with pretty good floors and sills. Is there any chance of being able to transplant the floors and sills as a unit? If not the whole, how about smaller aspects? Many thanks for your thoughts. Nick Moseley, NASS #278: 63-81 Spits, GT 6, Metro Vancouver B.C. ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] Order of panel replacement
I've only replaced parts of middle sill, part of A post, and full outer sill. At that time, noted that the dog-leg at the bottom of the wing, in front of the wheel, would get in the way of a replacing a full middle, inner, and outer sill. That being the case, suggested order would be: -big number 1, brace the a- and b-posts so they can't move. I just welded angle iron on the inside edges of both. -remove dog leg of old rear wing, so you can get at the sills, -remove and replace inner and middle sills -remove and replace rear wing -replace outer sill. Hope that helps Nick Moseley -Original Message- From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of scotts junk Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 10:30 AM To: spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Order of panel replacement Seeking the wisdom of the list: My wife's Mk3 Spit needs the passeger side rear wing and sills (inner, middle and outer panels) replaced. Which is the best order to proceed? Remove and replace the wing first, then do the sills or the other way around? Or does it matter as long as the alignment is all kept in spec? ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] Headrest Foam
I love that can-do attitude Mark, and nice to have your wife involved in your project. Cheers, from the left coast. Nick Moseley, Metro Vancouver 76-81 Spits and GT6 -Original Message- From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mark.jo...@exxonmobil.com Sent: Monday, January 26, 2009 11:16 AM To: spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Headrest Foam Hi Bob, When I rebuilt my seats a couple years ago my wife restuffed the headrests using pieces from a sleeping bag foam pad; the blue ones you find in the sporting good section of Walmart and the like. Mark 80 Spitfire 1500 Corunna, ON ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Merry Christmas/ Happy holidays
Merry Christmas to all fellow Spit-sters and your families. May your Spit projects all be successful. I wish you all a happy, healthy, and safe holiday, followed by a magnificent year of abundant health, safety, successes and prosperity. May those of us currently un-employed (myself among them) find the jobs of our dreams, or at last well-paying ones in which we can excel. Most importantly, have fun and be safe. Nick Moseley, NASS #278, 76-81 Spits, GT 6, Metro Vancouver B.C. ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Project engine update
The project engine rebuild that started in July 07 ran today, for the first time. Oh man, oh man, oh man, what great sounds and smell! What a relief! Much credit and thanks to my uncle in UK, Steve G, Dan N, and all the listers who have been so generous with their support and suggestions. So, I've run it at 2500rpm for 20 minutes. Should I be taking off the rocker-shaft and re-torquing the head nuts? It's cold and rainy here right now. Should I leave it as is until Spring, or start it periodically and fully warm up? Nick Moseley, NASS #278, 76-81 Spits, GT 6, Metro Vancouver B.C. Yippee Yiyo Kiyaay! ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] 1500 shift stick
I have late Spits, and have to say the insister is correct, the shifter you have is different. Spit shifters have a longer shaft, and do not have that bulb on the lower end. Sorry, don't know what it's from. Nick Moseley I have a shift stick up on ebay ( item number 110312544000 ) which I have identified as coming from a post 1975 Midget or Spitfire. There is a viewer out there who is insistent that I have mis-identified it. If some of you experts out there could look at the auction and send along a question (really an answer) to tell me what I have up, I would really appreciate it! I don't need to be selling the wrong stuff! Thanks in advance, Bill Slightly Classics Tucson, AZ ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] NASS Help please: ignition - It runs!!!!
It runs, but poorly so far. Time to come inside, it's cold out there! (8C, 47F) Today, after a bunch of testing and poking: -made new ground wire inside dizzy from plate to case, with soldered ends, -when points are open, a tester shows they are isolated from ground, and when they are closed, they are grounded. -low tension wire from coil to dizzy has good continuity, even when wiggled about, -connected White Blue to one end of a ballast resistor, and White and White to the other end. -changed coil. It runs, but sounds like it is not firing on all cylinders yet. Coil got very hot to the touch. Thanks for all the suggestions to get me to this point. I couldn't have done it without you!!! Nolan, Joe C, Jeff S, Jim D, Tod J, Doug B, Bill K, Mike D, Paul T, Steve G, all please take a bow. Thanks for your help. Nick Moseley NASS #278 ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] NASS Help please: ignition
Many, many thanks for all the suggestions. This small issue of no spark is shaking my belief in the Spitfire gods. Earlier today, thinking that it might be cleaner just to put in the electronic ignition set because it included a dizzy as well as the magic box, I tried to install it. Ahem, the flat bar in the bottom of the shaft, that engages into the offset slot in the drive gear, would not engage. It is 180 degrees out. (Rotor points at 4 rather than 10 o'clock). Comparing the 25D dizzy I was using before, to this one, they are indeed reversed. This is, another, un-expected eventuality. (Wry smile). Using the electronic set-up, I turned the engine over with the plug wires in the normal position, and then changed them around so that #1 was at 4 o'clock and so forth. No change. There is no ballast resistor in the circuit at present. Tomorrow I'll remedy that, and use the suggestions to do more testing. It's not a good thing, but having lost my job 3 weeks ago, means I should have time to chase down this problem, eventually, with help from fellow listers and club members. Thanks! I'll advise of progress. Nick Moseley NASS #278 ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Help please: ignition
I'm trying to start my project engine, but I have no spark at the plugs. I have full voltage at battery. With ignition key turned to run position, there are 12 volts at the coil. I've tried two coils, and get the same response: which is one spark when I first turn the key to Start, then no more sparks. Any suggestions? I'm at the point where I might try an electronic ignition dizzy, because this points version has got me beat. Other pertinent info is that this is a 76 1500, newly rebuilt, and this is the first start. Would this be the symptom if I had the timing gear out by 180 degrees? Might it be a bad condenser? Should I try rotating the plug wires on the dizzy? (ie. Move #1 to where #3 was located, and 3 to where 4 was, etc) Many Thanks Nick Moseley, NASS #278, 76-81 Spits, GT 6, Metro Vancouver B.C. ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] ] Help please: ignition
No, how should I do that? Turn on ignition and touch the wire that goes to the middle of the dizzy to ground? Nick M #278 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Nolan Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 5:56 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: [spitfire-enthusiast] Re: [Spits] Help please: ignition You say you've no spark at the plugs, ok. Have you checked for spark at the coil? ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] (no subject)
Way to go!!! Congratulations! Now even more fun can begin. Looks nice and shiny already. Nick Moseley -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 10:26 AM To: Spitfires@autox.team.net Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Spits] (no subject) Thanks to Nick, Paul-Ernest, and everyone on the Spitfire forum, I did finally get the block onto its engine stand last night. Here's the before and after pics. ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Temp Thermostat threads
Sorry for the cross posts. Did different water pump housings have different threads (imperial vs metric or?) for the temp thermostats? I'm still making slow progress on the project engine replacement, and found that the thermostat from one head, will not thread into the housing on the new engine. Any suggestions? Nick Moseley, NASS #278, 76-81 Spits, GT6, Metro Vancouver B.C. ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] lightswitch come apart?
Jim, if it bothers you, take heart. There is light at the other end of the rocker switch! The switches can be dis-assembled, with a certain amount of care, prying with flat-bladed screwdrivers, and tongue set just so at the corner of mouth. The end of the rocker moves a copper tab to ride over different tabs connected to the wires. Beware, as there is small spring in there to create tension against the contacts. It would create a more emotional, and less constructive tension, if one were to lose it. Good luck! Nick Moseley ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] engine stand
Bob, I sent a pic off list. I used bolts that thread into the block, with washers to take up any slack for the two top stand brackets, and long bolts with coarse threads, and again washers to take up the slack, secured to the engine plate. You can't remove the crank with the rear plate still installed. So depending on what you intend, you might want to take off the rear plate, and secure the stand brackets into the holes securing the plate. Hope that helps. Nick Moseley -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 10:05 AM To: Spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] engine stand Does anyone have some photos of a block on an engine stand? The small diameter threads on the back of the block scare me. Anyone have similar concerns. I guess a picture is worth a thousand words thanks in advance, Bob ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] Recommendations: dash / body parts / welding equipments: 64 Spit
Thanks Mike W, great find, that's a really good site! Lots snipped: http://www.classic-car-magazine.co.uk/spitrest/spitfire-sill-replacement.htm l Mike Welch '69 Spitfire x 2 '69 Honda SL350 '76 Honda CB550F Colorado Springs, CO Unsnip Nick Moseley NASS #278 ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia
The correct procedure in cases like this is to: Buy it first, ask questions later! Nick Moseley -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Daniel Parrott Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 2:38 PM To: spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] GT-6 MK3 in Georgia I have an opportunity (?) to purchase a 1972 GT-6 MK3 cheap. It's been a while, but do they require leaded gas to run? If so, how do the listers cope with that requirement? ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding:
Congratulations Mike! Welcome back to the wonderful world of Spit ownership. By all means, check your cars' info (and enter your cars' info) at, Joe Curry's International Spitfire Database. http://members.cox.net/spitlist/ That S/N would fit into the 1964 run. Colour and trim codes should appear in separate spots on the data plate, along with the year and month of manufacture. Nick Moseley ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding:
I defer to Joe's considerably greater knowledge, especially as square-tails are my particular addiction. Nick M -Original Message- From: Joe Curry [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 12:18 PM To: 'Nick Moseley'; spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Spits] Early Spitfire VIN Decoding: Nick, Unfortunately the color codes and other extra information was not present on that year's commission plates. So it is impossible to know what color it was unless there is some unmolested paint still remaining or one buys a BMIHT Build Certificate. Joe ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] Navel Jelly
I believe the correct spelling is naval, as in big ships (Navy). Thanks all! Nick Moseley ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] Restorable? Your thoughts appreciated
Mike, people can create a Bugatti Royale from scratch, so anything is salvageable. A bigger issue is whether this car is in line with your objectives and expectations. It's tough to say based on one picture, so please take this with a pinch of salt. That car looks like it will need at least a new sill (rocker panel), probably the sill strengthener (middle sill), and possibly the inner. If it looks like that on one side, the other side will probably need the same treatment. How about the driver and passenger floors, and the A post panels where they joint the floors? And the floor of the trunk? And the front underside of the bonnet? I don't see seats, an interior, a dash and instruments, dash top, top or top frame. Nor bonnet latches, nor bumpers. I do see rust coming through near the bottom of the rear quarter panel. Does it have a title? So, it'll probably need a lot of parts, and welding. How much time will your friends want to devote to your project, or will they be teaching you so that you can do it yourself? Here is a link to a Mk II Spit that someone spent a fair amount of time and money on restoring. http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/car/749418882.html Note that he is asking less than he spent. (NFI etc) Go to a supplier's web site and check out the prices of the rocker panels (and floors etc), and interiors, carpets, tops. They add up very quickly. Conventional wisdom is to buy the best car you can afford, and work on improving it. However, if your objective is to learn a bunch of new skills, then you will need practice, and might want to take on a bigger project. As an early car, it would be nice for someone to save it. As to whether it is worth $300 or $800, it doesn't really matter. It will take a LOT more than the difference to get this car looking pristine. The experience of taking a car from this state, to pristine, might be priceless in some enthusiast's eyes. If that is you, carry on! If you are on a very tight budget, look for a less rusty and more complete car. Nick Moseley ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Primer Vs Etch Primer?
Sorry for the cross-posts to those on multiple lists. I'm part way through stripping and repainting the front chassis rails, shock towers, bulkhead and shelf. Just the shelf to go yet. Old paint was mechanically stripped off, Rust converter product sprayed on just in case, then a coat of primer, then colour coats. My question is: what is the difference between regular primer, and etch primer? I saw a show recently where they sprayed on etch primer in the expectation that it would neutralize surface rust, and leave a primed surface. It was an Eastwood product, but I see Etch primer for sale at my FLAPS. For the shelf on which the M/Cs etc rest, should I be using Etch primer? For that matter, should I have used it on the rest, and would it obviate any benefit of applying Rust Converter? Sorry, lots of questions, but very little traffic, everyone must be out having fun! Nick Moseley, NASS #278, 76-81 Spits, GT6, Metro Vancouver B.C. ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] options for removing undercoat?
Joe and Fred, Thanks! The choices you gave were far better than what I seem to recall doing last time, which was using just a paint scraper. I put the shock tower and into the parts washer with solvent, and Viola! After a little bit of brushing, 'tis a thing of beauty. Nick Moseley -Original Message- From: Joe Curry [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 9:26 AM To: 'Nick Moseley'; 'spitfires @ autox . team . net' Subject: RE: [Spits] options for removing undercoat? If it is an asphalt based undercoating, PPG's Acryli-Clean (or some other similar product from another manufacturer) will dissolve it without bothering the paint underneath. Joe ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] wheel torque specs
Don + Henry: Driveshaft to hub nut = 120 lb/ft, 163 Nm per Haynes. Hope that helps Nick Moseley ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Mike Chmura
Mike, send your message to [EMAIL PROTECTED] per below, not the list itself. Snipped from: http://autox.team.net/tn-mail.html ...or Subscribe via direct e-mail request: The Team.Net lists, located at autox.team.net are run by an automated list Server, called majordomo. You can also find information about this majordomo by sending the command help on the first line of an e-mail message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Some lists are also available as Digest Version, In digest form, all the messages for each day are sent out combined in a single message (sometimes two). This is good if your system can't handle a lot of mail messages. To mail to majordomo to subscribe (or unsubscribe) to most of these lists, send an email message to the request address, with your request in the body of the message like one of these: subscribe british-cars [your email address] subscribe british-cars-digest [your email address] or to get off a list: unsubscribe british-cars [your email address] Note: your email address is optional, and majordomo will use your default return address if nothing else is provided. Just being helpful. Nick Moseley ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] 78 throttle cable replacement
The cable runs through a metal sort of bushing in the firewall shelf. The bushing is almost upside-down bell shaped. I seem to recall that prying from the top is not a good idea, and that pushing the wire all the way into the engine compartment, then thumping it up and out with the head of a hammer will work. Nick Moseley (no relation to Max, note the extra e) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 5:07 PM To: Spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] 78 throttle cable replacement Hello and help! So my throttle cable breaks on the way to work... tow it home, order new one get new one in mail... can't get the old one out of the firewall :-) It will spin but won't pull out even though there doesn't appear to be anything holding it in like a barb or something that needs to be pinched. The new cable housing doesn't seem to have any retention mechanism either. Do I need better glasses? Stumped in Louisville, Craig Holmes 78 Spitfire Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] Timing chain cover nut
Funny timing, I sent the message below to the NASS list earlier today. Based on the look of the nut that came off and what I've read, some folks use a hammer and cold chisel to loosen it. Hope that helps. Nick Moseley -Original Message- From: Nick Moseley [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 11:41 AM To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]' Subject: RE: NASS Re: Was Carbs -Valve timing- now crank nut tools I'm rebuilding an engine and needed to remove the crank nut. The 1 13/16ths socket was only 9.99, but the adapter from 3/4 to 1 in was 12.99. www.princessauto.com Pages 281 and 283 from their 8000 page catalogue Nick M #278 ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] Naturally, now the message appears!!!
Hi Mark, thanks for your efforts. I've ante-ed up $20 through PayPal (it was so easy, anyone could do it...) and it only cost $19.60 Canadian. What a bargain! Nick Moseley ___ [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.team.net/donate Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
Re: [Spits] List message limits?
Hi Barry. To add to that, I'm puzzled by why my own e-mail address appears below your signature line. Can everybody see my e-mail address there, or are they seeing their own? Mark B also had this list set up so that when replying to a message, you had to cut off the bottom few lines about how to subscribe and un-subscribe, and the web address etc., otherwise the message would not be sent. That may be the problem in the case of your 4 other messages. Maybe that helps? I'd still like to know if everyone is seeing my e-mail address after Barry's two line signature. Nick Moseley Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) ___ nmoseleyATdccnet.com ___ [EMAIL PROTECTED] Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
Re: [Spits] [Spit] Rear Toe - Spitfire
It seemed like maybe you wanted to know the stock settings. According to Haynes, rear toe-out should be 1/32nd to 3/32nds (.079 to 2.38mm). One hopes the shop should know how to shim to get that. While I've got the manual open, camber should be 0 to 2 degrees. Hope that helps, Nick Moseley -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob Berger Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 12:47 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] [Spit] Rear Toe - Spitfire Hi all, I just had the alignment checked on my spitfire and the shop told me that one of my rear wheels is toed in and the other is toed out. The wheel that is toed out is is specs and the other one will be in spec by moving the radius arm with 1 shim. The only problem is that they/I do not know enough about the spitfire rear end geometry to tell me if I need to add the shim or remove the shim. Can anyone tell me which I need? Thanks Bob Berger 78 Spitfire with new tires ___ [EMAIL PROTECTED] Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires ___ [EMAIL PROTECTED] Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
Re: [Spits] a new clunking noise
Check that all the lug nuts on your rear wheels are tight. Please don't ask why I'm suggesting that (head downcast). Nick Moseley Near Vancouver B.C. 76-81 Spits -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 5:12 PM To: spitfires@autox.team.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Spits] a new clunking noise Just when I thought it was safe to put the wrenches away... My Spitfire has a new sound. When I turn a corner at anything more than walking speed I hear a clunk clunk clunk, maybe 3 to 5 clunks right behind me which sound like something bouncing across a metallic floor or swinging against a metallic wall. Except there isn't anything to swing or bounce, nothing loose underneath nor under the spare tire. I fully expect one or more of you to say it is something come loose in the gas tank. So what would it likely be? A filter perhaps? Is it serious? I don't relish the idea of pulling the tank, or even just pulling a cover off. Tanks in advance, Jim Muller [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007 8:02 AM ___ [EMAIL PROTECTED] Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires ___ [EMAIL PROTECTED] Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
Re: [Spits] Engine rebuild: What to ask and say to the machine shop? -and Happy 4th!
Thanks Gene. Great advice. I enjoyed your web page, and well remember the novel solution of using piano wire to form a spring for the master cylinder, and the other challenges you overcame. I'm hoping to phone two machine shops tomorrow, to find out if any will work with me. I also spoke to Ted S on Saturday morning. His offer of doing the work including assembly is extremely tempting, and would certainly guarantee success. I'm still hung up on doing some of the work myself though. Just out of curiosity, which cam did you go with, and are you happy with it? Many thanks Nick Moseley (NASS 278) 76-81 Spits, near Vancouver B.C. ___ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
[Spits] Engine rebuild: What to ask and say to the machine shop? -and Happy 4th!
Happy 4th to all my neighbors to the South! Sorry for the cross-posts! I have a project engine for a home rebuild, partly to save $s, and partly for the challenge. Here is what I gather so far: It is a late 1493cc engine reputedly had about 75,000 miles on it (FM132xxx I think). The oil filter had mileage at the last oil change written on the end, which along with other signs, would indicate the former owner took care of it. Engine was removed from an accident damaged car. Yet, the oil in it was black as coal. Whereas when the other pistons were removed the rings sprang out and expanded, on #4 cyl the rings stayed contracted into their slots, seemingly stuck together with a paste of oil and carbon. (Which explains the black oil). The crank journal under #2 cyl has visible but not feel-able (with fingertip) grooves, the others have wear but less. There is a feel-able (finger-tip again) wear ridge at the top of the cylinders. I've tried measuring, and get results varying from 2.90 at the very top, down to 2.893 at the bottom of a cylinder. There are variations, probably due to my lack of skill, I've never used the digital caliper and other thingy with axles on springs, before. On the head, intake and exhaust valves on #2 cyl. were removed. There was visible wear on the intake valve stem and some lateral movement, but neither on the exhaust valve. So questions: -do machine shops expect the crank removed, or would they prefer it in? -what about the camshaft, in or out? -do they expect to be told what to grind it to, or will they measure and decide? -should I be giving them the head as well to install new valve guides and skim? The machine shop I've chosen comes recommended, has worked on Spits and LBCs in general, and is located next door to a mechanic that works on LBCs and others. I've never used that mechanic, but they also come recommended. Should I be taking my own measurements and telling them what to grind it to, or letting them know the over-bore sizes available and let them get to it!? As you can tell by now I'm sure, the big question is: what do I ask and say to the machine shop, and what should I do to prepare before-hand? For those curious, I hope to use a rebuild kit available here: http://www.sportscarsupplies.com/catalogue.asp?model=Spitfire%20/%20GT6 The $3,500. odd that a lister on another list paid for a rebuild is beyond me. Many thanks for all suggestions, Nick Moseley, NASS #278 76-81 Spits , Near Vancouver B.C. ___ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
Re: [Spits] Tail and dash light Gremlins
Me too! I agree with Paul and Joe. The fuse box and poor connections between the fuses and the clips can create all kinds of intermittent problems. If left alone, the clips start sparking when contact is made and lost. Along with the little sparks comes heat, and soon, the plastic fuse block holding the clips in place melts, moving the clips even further from the fuses. By that point, its time for a new fuse block, both elusive, and a pain to have to install, as you have to pull the whole front harness' connections and run them through the new block. The female connectors are another common problem, many of them over 30 years old and exposed to all kinds of weather. Replacement or at least a little remediation will help prevent dark nights being a problem. Nick Moseley 76-81 Spits, near Vancouver B.C. ___ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
[Spits] FW: Welcome to the Spitfires mailing list
-Original Message- From: Nick Moseley [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007 8:12 PM To: 'Andrew Lindeman' Subject: RE: [Spits] Welcome to the Spitfires mailing list Thanks Mark. I'm here too Andy, on and off so to speak. Nick Moseley Near Vancouver B.C. Looks like the upgrade worked. Thanks Mark! Is there anybody else out there? Andy ___ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
FW: [Spit] Restoring Tail Lights
Hi Bob. I restored a set, and am happy with the results. I can't remember if it was with Duplicolor Chrome Tone, or high heat aluminum-look paint, as both are sitting around here. At any rate, it made a huge difference, and was a very worth-while project. While they were apart, I also cleaned the insides of all the lenses, which also made a noticeable difference. Nick Moseley 76-81 Spits Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
RE: [Spit] Ongoing brake master cylinder saga
Jim, don't be sorry to e-mail the list. Many of us have had occasion to tap into the collective wisdom, and are eager to repay the favor. Those that don't want to reply, won't. There have been mixed responses to the question of whether or not to buy a new master. One supplier is on record as saying that by the time this item fails, more often than not it needs to be replaced or re-sleeved due to corrosion anyway, or words to that affect. Very valid comment if you are paying an hourly shop rate to someone to pull and replace it. It comes down to how easily you can and will part with $s for your Spit, and whether you are happy to invest more money (and your time) into this one, when that same money could go into buying a new master, and you might end up having to buy a new one anyway. You mention pitting, how bad is it? I've had some success using a hone in a drill to remove light pitting, and installing a seal kit. The hone was not expensive, and for me this is a hobby so spending the time was not a major concern. If it were me, having already invested the time you have, I'd buy the hone and try it, (if only out of cussedness and the spirit of experimentation, if nothing else!) If it has not been able to remove the pitting after a couple of minutes of using the hone, then you probably need a replacement master. HTH Nick Moseley Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
RE: TR:Spitfire - New Rear Spring - PITA
Shane: BTDT, got the T-shirt, now I forget exactly how. Gee aging is fun, all those old skills to re-learn. Anyway, you are right the bottom leaf doesn't go into the box. It's a kind of escape valve, in that if the main spring breaks, the axles won't go too far. That's why the ends of the bottom leaf encircle the ends of the main spring. Keep the sleeve, that allows the back of the car to pivot on the spring, and I gather was thought to be important. Reading your message I'd be inclined to undo the four compressing bolts, insert the sleeve with the leaves un-compressed loose, then tighten up again. When I did this job, attaching the vertical links to the ends of the spring was the last thing done. I seem to recall putting the sleeve in with the spring outside the car, loosely assembling, getting it onto the diff, then tightening it together. HTH Nick Moseley Near Vancouver B.C. Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
RE: sagging rear/advice
All, for the record, my opinion of Joe Curry's contributions to this and other lists strongly disagrees with another recently expressed. Joe has always been very helpful to me, and to other list members over the years, on a variety of Spit-related topics. I believe my opinion has merit and perspective, having been on this list since inception, and on its' [EMAIL PROTECTED] parent before that. Joe has and does provide us all a huge service in the creation and maintenance of the International Spitfire Database alone, in addition to other assistance. If you care to discuss this further with me, please do so OFF LIST. Nick Moseley Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Different Intake Valve sizes between years on a head for a 1500?
Sorry for the cross-post. I took a head in to be rebuilt, per the suggestion of many listers answering an earlier question. (OK, this is your chance, get your digs in. yes indeed, my head DID need to be examined). The shop doing the work has asked what year it's from, as the intake valves are larger than normal. I know the engine is from a 76, as engine number is FM59xxx. Don't know about the head, as the shop has it, and I can't see the serial number from here (!). Question is, were there any years of heads that would fit easily on a 1500 block, that would have different (larger) intake valves? I suspect if the valves are larger, that this may mean the head has been worked on before, and that a former owner installed larger intake valves. Correct or no? Many thanks for your insights Nick Moseley Vancouver B.C. (NASS #278) Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
RE: Replacing rockers
Mike, I had a similar adventure a couple of years or so ago. One thing to bear in mind is that the quality of the replacement parts varies wildly. Before you start cutting, carefully compare the old panel to the new. In my case, the first new panel was dramatically different from the old, in the folds of flat metal at the base of the door aperture. In my innocence, when I took it back (having already cut the whole rocker off), I was told that the pro's often leave the existing aperture bottom intact, cut 1/4 inch inside, cut the new panel to match, and butt weld the old to the new. I ended up buying a Steelcraft panel, supposedly the best, and it fit fine, after some fettling. Much more expensive though, but IMHO well worth it. Paul Tegler has a page on making one of the non-Steelcraft panels fit, somewhere on his site, teglerizer.com Good luck, and enjoy. Nick Moseley Snip I'm about to embark upon a new adventure...replacing the rockers on my '69 Spit. A welder friend is going to come over and help since I've never welded or replaced body panels. Before I start cutting out the old ones, does anyone have a guide for this procedure or helpful advice? Mike Welch unsnip Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
RE: Stripped oil sump bolt threads in aluminum filler piece at front of engine
Once again, apologies for the cross-posting. Wow an over-whelming response! Many thanks to: William, Roger, Henry, Lee, Mike M, Cyrille, Howard, Douglas, rek46, Geoff, Carter, Larry V, Leon, for their thoughts, experiences and insights. Obviously a common problem, underlined by the fact that several of you have bought a new saddle bar in anticipation of a needing it! The engine in question is not urgently needed at present, so that gives me a bit of time. That being the case, I'm going to do a bit of both. Have already enquired of pricing including shipping from Marc Goldblatt. As well, am going to give tapping new threads into the existing block a whirl. I don't have a drill press, and wasn't kidding about the drilling at an angle reference, as when I eyeball something it is in the singular. However, I have an uncle visiting from UK, who spent his career in the Admiralty Signals and Radar Establishment. He has offered to supervise, so might as well try it, as the existing piece is garbage as is anyway. Cheers, and once again, my thanks to all who shared Nick Moseley Vancouver B.C. (By way of Spit sighting, saw a red GT6 on a trailer going east on 64th yesterday. Good on ya'. NSM.) Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Stripped oil sump bolt threads in aluminum filler piece at front of engine
Apologies for the cross-posting. In the continuing saga of the engine purchased at a good price, fully rebuilt, I checked main bearings and they were indeed brand new. Ahh, that's nice. However, the threads into the aluminum block called a filler piece, at the front of the engine holding the two front sump (oil pan) bolts, are well and truly stripped. As I understand it, the options are: -helicoil to replace the threads, means added expense of a helicoil kit, plus the (very real) possibility that I'd drill the new holes at an angle -new aluminum block, but I recall this coming up before, so it must be a weak point -new metal (instead of aluminum) block (filler piece), I remember seeing these on e-bay in the past, but can't find them lately. Anyone know the seller? Any preferences? One misgiving about the metal block relates to why Triumph would use aluminum in the first place if it didn't need it, but there is not always a rhyme to their reason. Comments welcome. Nick Moseley Vancouver B.C. (NASS #278) Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
RE: making progress!
Big Congrats Jim! I too am 3-D challenged, and had a heck of a time getting that line in, and that was with the engine out! Great that you are at the famous re-assembly is the reverse of removal stage. Carry on! Nick Moseley Snip If you are in any way 3-D spatially-challenged, do not try this at home! Jim Muller [EMAIL PROTECTED] unsnip Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Happy Canada Day all!
Happy Canada Day to all, and especially Liv, Wilf, Mark, Andre and family, and any other Canadians out there! I'm celebrating by flying the Maple Leaf, painting an (English) Spit bonnet, and working in my Canadian garden. (Won't talk about those blind refs and the Eng loss in footie. :((( ). Also, an early Happy Fourth of July to our neighbours to the south. Cheers! Nick Moseley Nick Moseley Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Re: Looking for some horns
I have what I thought was a set; L is by Lucas, other is by Mixo (France), both have two spade connectors. You're welcome to them. I can send pics off list if you like. Nick Moseley Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Electric fan Cont'd: Wasn't - Now is
For posterity, here is a wee bit of advice for any whose stock electric cooling fan for the radiator quits. Check the contacts in the wiring first, then take it off, remove the fan and the front plate of the motor housing, and give it a shake and a gust of air! I must have got what seemed like a couple of ounces (OK, less, but a lot) of black dust out of the fan motor housing. I suspect if was dust from the carbon brushes, as the design leaves it no avenue through which to escape. I'm now in the happy position of having a new one on the car, an original stock one coming from a kind lister (thanks Robert!), and now the original is back in operating condition. For those following along, if I'd held off until there was time to pull the motor apart and inspect, we would probably not have made it to the show. In case you're wondering, no regrets. We made it to the ABFM in Vancouver and had a fantastic time. Thought I'd be bored so took a book to read during the slow times. Never had a slow time. All kinds of nice folks chatting, other participants and visitors alike. One guy all the way from Alabama (in town for business) ! Nick Moseley Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Re: Electric Cooling Fan Isn't
Many thanks to Joe C, John Perry, Dan Aycock, John Blair, Richard Gosling, Don Slicker, John Reynolds. The general agreement is that the fan motor is dead and just plain needs replacement. The hunt is on, and I'll be on the phone tomorrow. Many thanks to all for their assistance and suggestions. Nick Moseley 76-81 Spits Vancouver B.C. (NASS #278) (My wife is appalled that with this many cars, I don't have a spare. Come to think of it, so am I. Must do something about that... Could replace with older style large rad and fan clutch (I have _those_ parts), but that seems a backward step, so will leave that as a distant Plan C. N - Original Message - From: Nick Moseley To: spitfires@autox.team.net ; [EMAIL PROTECTED] ; [EMAIL PROTECTED] ; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 7:49 PM Subject: Electric Cooling Fan Isn't My 80/81 must have let the smoke out of the wires that go to the electric cooling fan, as it has stopped spinning. Electricity is one of the world's marvels to me, could someone please help? Current taken from the battery and applied directly to the two terminals on the fan produces no results. Audible continuity tester applied to the two terminals results in an audible sound (!) Can anyone suggest tests that would narrow this problem down, or sell me a new motor if that is what's needed. Sorry for the cross-posts! Nick Moseley 76-81 Spits (yes, one of the few parts not interchangeable) Vancouver B.C. (NASS 278) Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Electric Cooling Fan Isn't
My 80/81 must have let the smoke out of the wires that go to the electric cooling fan, as it has stopped spinning. Electricity is one of the world's marvels to me, could someone please help? Current taken from the battery and applied directly to the two terminals on the fan produces no results. Audible continuity tester applied to the two terminals results in an audible sound (!) Can anyone suggest tests that would narrow this problem down, or sell me a new motor if that is what's needed. Sorry for the cross-posts! Nick Moseley 76-81 Spits (yes, one of the few parts not interchangeable) Vancouver B.C. (NASS 278) Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Re: Leaky heater
There's a little radiator, the heater matrix, inside that metal box. The hoses that feed through the bulkhead at a 45 degree angle are attached to metal pipes that come from the matrix. If those hose connections were leaking, I think you'd be able to see the leak from the engine compartment. The heads of bolts that attach the heater box to the bulkhead are in the engine compartment, around and behind the windshield washer spray reservoir. IMO, it's a little unlikely that the leak is just a bad hose connection, but you might be lucky, worth a look anyway. If the heater matrix has failed, you may be able to buy new. I've also seen used ones come up on e-bay. For that matter, I have two laying around, and would be prepared to do a deal Nick Moseley Vancouver B.C. (Canada) Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Re: Spring Brakes
Doug, excellent advice! I've been using a syringe to extract the old fluid. Considering the song and dance I had to go through to get it from a pharmacy (No, its my car that has the habit, not me!), a turkey baster would be easier to get, and would work better too. I tried one of those one-man bleeder kits, with the tubes into a plastic jar with lid. No success. What HAS worked well for me, and was inexpensive, was clear tubing with a one-way valve on the end. Another advantage of bleeding every year or two is that you won't have to take a torch (blow-torch, not a flashlight) to loosen the bleed nipples. Nick(278) Seriously, a few years ago I installed Speed-Bleeders all around, and every spring (or two) I do a full bleed-flush of the braking system, which takes maybe 20 minutes. Before starting, be sure to suck out all the old, moisture-laden fluid from the reservoir and replace it with fresh. A turkey baster comes in handy for this. Doug Braun '72 Spit Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Spring Brakes
Hi all, traffic is low (hopefully everyone is raising glasses to Joe and the other birthday boys) so thought I'd share an observation. Over the last few days, I've removed the pistons from 3 _pairs_ of front calipers. Even though the rubber seals looked intact, it was a bit shocking to see how much rust there was on most of the pistons. On one caliper there was no chrome on almost the whole bottom half of one piston. Anyone know, is this a result of water getting into the fluid? If you're going crazy waiting for the driving season, and wondering what to do in the meantime, unless you have silicon fluid, it may be an idea to change your brake fluid. Better that than a seized caliper generating heat, cooking the wheel bearing grease out and then the axle stub. BTDT on another car, that's why when I noticed the loose rubber seal on this car, it was time to try a rebuild. Nick Moseley #278 76-81 Spits Vancouver B.C. Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Engine evaluation= refresh vs rebuild
Hi all, seeking some thoughts on evaluating an engine. The story to-date: Got this engine from a reputable guy, who got it from someone else. It is supposed to be a 1500 freshly rebuilt to 9.0:1 compression. Serial # =FM5952UE. My objective is to have a stock engine in good shape, that produces good power with clean emissions. (I'm tired of paying exorbitant amounts to get a Spit through our emissions program). So how do I evaluate it short of installing it? So far, I've assessed the crank end play, to find it needs attention to the thrust washers (.0096 play). (Thanks John K). The PO used blue goop along with a gasket to seal the pan, and I've found one bit of sealant loose in the engine. (About a quarter of the size of my pinky fingernail). There is orange goop conspicuously around the timing chain housing. Should I pull the head, drop the pistons and measure the bore sizes? Should I buy a compression tester? I've never had an engine apart before. (Other than a lawn mower). I do have a venire calliper and telescoping gauges, but don't know how to use them. This is a winter project, on a spare engine, but I don't want to get needlessly over my head. On the other hand, part of the motivation is simple experimentation. Lads and Lassies, your thoughts? Nick Moseley NASS #278 76-81 Spits, and a spare engine (Sorry for the replication on multiple lists) Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Re: Advice on prospective spitfire purchase
and he accepted it at $2700 delivered. Greg, fantastic, congratulations! Great horse-trading on the delivery too. Nick Moseley Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
test, sorry please delete
Nick Moseley Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
RE: Browns Spitfire/ Electric Gremlins
It can be done, but its a huge PITA. It goes along the lines of: -from inside, push in the plastic tabs to release the box and let it pull into the engine compartment -release the metal fuse holders from the box (the wires are on the other end) -pull the entire front harness through the hole (the parts that went through the hole) -get new box -draw harness through, etc. I confess, last time I replaced a fuse box (yes, it melted), I cut a slot to let the harness into the hole, and glued the missing piece of the arc right back in. HTH Nick Moseley Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
FW: Was Overdrive, now Spitfire Van ?
Nice time to be looking for a Spit. There are 29 Spits on ebay alone, for sale within 250 miles of Portsmouth, but this nice little Spitfire Van is too far away, in Suffolk ... Pardon_? Really: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TRIUMPH-SPITFIRE-ORANGE_W0QQitemZ4575898923QQcategoryZ 29760QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem If word wrap interferes, the item # is 4575898923. Somehow, somewhere, someone will be asking But does it have cup holders, and why aren't those Spitfire Ales? Nick Moseley (sorry for the cross-post, but worth it for novelty value at least, I hope). *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
FW: gear box removal/clutch service
Hmph, sent this to the wrong list. Sorry James, hope its not too late. If my head wasn't screwed on etc... Nick Moseley Delta B.C. -Original Message- From: Nick Moseley [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: August 23, 2005 9:42 PM To: Spit-Enthusiast list Subject: RE: gear box removal/clutch service James: I don't know if you've done this before, so please excuse if these are too basic. I'm by no means an expert, but had the pleasure of being guided by one when replacing clutch on a 1500 several years ago. Ahead of time arrange to have: -a 3 piece clutch kit, there's no sense in leaving used parts in there unless you _like_ this kind of job and want to do it again. -a clutch alignment tool handy. I just managed to do an engine swap and getting the engine and gearbox to come together was a major time consumer. Joe Curry recommended having an input shaft to do this, and it made a huge difference. (Thanks Joe!) -a new main rear seal (at least on a 1500) and some Permatex or whoever gasket maker to put between the seal housing and the oil pan. Again, might as well do this while you have it opened up. The actual seal replacement takes very little time. (Subsequent suggestion by another lister to also replace pilot bushing). -gone to a hardware store or whatever and get two lng bolts like the top two where the gearbox is secured to the engine. Cut the heads off. (Or buy two looong studs). By getting the trans onto these bolts (now studs) you'll find it a lot easier to make the fine adjustments necessary to get the box and engine to mesh. -4 strong jack stands or whatever is necessary to get and hold the car in the air securely. -the right tools. The 1500 uses Allen/hex head bolts to secure the pressure plate to the flywheel. Not having them to hand when needed is a drag. (Don't know about the Mk 3). Also a torque wrench may be useful (although I didn't use one) During: -you can save yourself some time (at least with the seats in a 1500) by removing only the seat bottom rather than the whole thing. -after disconnecting rad hoses and engine mounts as needed, lift up the rear of the engine and set it onto a short 2 X 4 piece of wood straddling the chassis. Note the angle when removing the box, and try to replicate it when re-installing. Its easier to pull up and out together, rather than out and then up. Hope this helps, again, sorry if its too basic. Nick Moseley Delta B.C. James Catalan wrote Sent: August 23, 2005 5:59 PM Any words of advice, tips, tricks, etc etc in the removal of the gear box? thanks, James *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: Locate engine in gearbox huhh!
Wow, thanks for the responses: Michael, Bill D, Jim, David, Bill K, John, Joe. Sounds like I'm on the right track. I changed the clutch, using the famous masking tape on a wood dowel to create a centring tool. The shaft is partly in, and is within the splines of the plate because I can feel resistance when turning the crank pulley. I'm within about two inches of being in. Sounds good, but it's been there since before about 2 pm yesterday, and I kept at it until after 7pm. Grr. Will try the longer bolt trick (thanks John). Now I understand why Bill D wasn't tempted to remove without transmission. The possibility of doing this swap (engines) without having to rip the interior apart is how I got here. Last thing I did last night was to jack up the trans, and change the link in the hoist chain to improve angle (thanks Joe). Will try again shortly Cheers Nick Moseley *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Locate engine in gearbox huhh! - Success!!
Nick Moseley is pleased to announce the marriage of Engine #FM43xxUESS to the bride, FM901xx. The bride was dressed in blue, as was the entire carport, (language!), the engine clad in black. A world of thanks to all who made suggestions!! The trick was a combination of things, including long bolts, and the use of an input shaft lent by British Motors in Surrey BC. (Went and borrowed it after reading Joe's post this AM, then got busy). Tip of tongue had to be just so, out and to the left, Nick was inside chassis, between bonnet and where rad is supposed to be. Ah. Again, profuse thanks to all Nick Moseley 76-81 Spits Delta B.C. *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: [spitfire-enthusiast] Re: Info and thoughts on engine and rocker cover colours
Jeff, thanks for such a full reply!!. Your painted engine looks gorgeous!!! Fri night, yesterday and today were spent preparing for, then removing the engine. It's now removed from the car, suspended in mid-air on a hoist. Taking a break right now from scrubbing, getting it ready to paint. (BTW, I found out a hoist won't fit in a Volvo sedan, had to have it delivered. It's a long weekend here, so I have today and tomorrow to get done whatever can be done, then the hoist goes back). I note that you painted both blocks black. Paul T had one (Punkin maybe) where it looks like he painted it red, then changed to black. On reflection (punny) a gloss black is probably best. Small oil leaks (perish the thought, pshaw, on a British car?!) won't be quite so noticeable, and it is original. The idea of the hammered finish paint for the rocker cover is very appealing! I love that stuff, even used it to paint all of the floor heating registers in the house. (Husband points you know, and gained more points for the Spit collection along the lines of Wouldn't have known about this paint but for the Spit lists. Jeff, your links on rust removal are fascinating. Going off now to buy black engine paint, and some sodium carbonate. May get some kind of clear coat as well, just in case. Many, many, thanks Nick Moseley -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of zeke762000 Sent: July 31, 2005 5:26 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [spitfire-enthusiast] Re: Info and thoughts on engine and rocker cover colours --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Nick Moseley Hi Nick, I painted the engines to my 76 and 80 a gloss black. The valve color on the 76 was painted the same bright red to match the car. The valve cover on the 80 had a lot of rust and when cleaned up, had some pitting. I used Rustoleum Hammered Finish in Silver(Aluminum) for that one. The Hammered Finish hides the pitting. It works well on other parts. Anything silver on my 76 is painted with it. As far as my alternators, I just wire brushed them as best I could. My 76 has stayed clean but I only drive it in nice weather. I have some pics on my site at http://jterrio.home.comcast.net of both projects. For rust removal, I sand blasted everything on my 76 that would fit in a cabinet and wire wheeled the large pieces. I have since incorporated a few new teniques. For small items and hardware, I marinate them over over night in a cup of undiluted CLR available at most hardware of dept stores. I have also been experimenting with Electrolytic Rust removal. I did this with the alternator/airpump brackets on my 80 and it worked well. There is a link on my site that describes it pretty well an has links to other sites. I plan to have a page with my setup and results but it is not ready yet. I will say that I substituted PH+ for swimming pools in place of the Washing Soda because I couldn't find it. Pool stores are everywhere. I hope this helps. Jeff in NH Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/spitfire-enthusiast/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Info and thoughts on engine and rocker cover colours
Hi all. I'm seeking info and thoughts on what pleased or dis-pleases you about engine colours, and rocker cover colours. The situation is that the engine of my 78 summer driver is gently giving up the ghost. Emissions tests have become progressively worse, and it has now sprung quite a prolific oil leak between the block and head (how can that happen?). So, I have an engine in what looks to be turning into the parts car for which it was originally bought. It ran strong last time it was used, a while (several years, but who's counting) ago. It is going to replace the engine in the driver. With the engine removed, this would be a great time to clean and paint, before installing it. The questions is, what colour? Stock is black, but is it gloss or matte? The car is a 78, JMA blue, and the present rocker cover colour is red, almost fire engine red. Anyone used different colour (readily accessible, Canadian Tire or Lordco would be great) and been very pleased with the results? Ford Blue is accessible, but may clash, and I'm quite free to admit I don't have much colour sense, hence the question to the lists. As well, the car is quite stock, so originality is a bit of an issue, but only one aspect. (BTW, the engine is an SS unit, so not a huge issue if its original engine doesn't go back in, as I understand that is the code for a factory replacement.) I'm also interested in opinions, experiences and techniques for refinishing the alternator and mounting brackets. Fairly major corrosion, and if just buffed, don't they just corrode again? Many thanks for all opinions Nick Moseley 76 77 78 79 81 Spits, in various states Happy BC Day on Monday, to those in the province, woohoo its a long weekend *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: Request for dialogue (was: The latest brouhaha...) Now unbelievably loong - caution
owners/drivers/admirers. Thanks for reading this. If you feel it is all drivel, I respect your opinion and your right to it. This has been, after all, only my opinion. Nick Moseley (I'll be corresponding with Blake off-list, as I'm now far over budget in the here's my two cents category). N *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Test - sorry
Nick *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Happy New Year
Happy New Year to all! (It's Ok to say that loud now, it is after noon PST after all!) Best wishes to you, your families and your Spitfires, for health wealth and happiness in 2005 and on. Nick Moseley Delta B.C. Canada *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Repair/rebuild bonnet sites?
I'd appreciate the collective wisdom and experience in how you've dealt with a rusty bonnet. Any pictures would be great ! I spent much of Fri nite waiting 2 hours for a guy to show up (he didn't) who was selling a project that had a great body and rust free bonnet. Upon visiting again the next day, it didn't, well sort of. Inner fenders at the wheel arch had rotted through to the outers, but the metal of the fenders themselves including arches seemed okay. Previous bondo-ed repair at the leading edge of one arch. I've already got a bonnet with rusted inners, and rust through under the side maker lamp. In my ignorance, I'm thinking that in order to fix the inners and make them look right, I'll have to take the bonnets apart, and that if I have to do that, I might as well replace the side panels (front fenders) as well. If that has to be done on both bonnets then I might just as well work on the one I've already got. So what to do? Replace: cost wise a local vendor wants $750. for a good bonnet (I don't know if that means needs some work, or no work). Repair: parts from Spitbits price out at $550. Can, but plus shipping, duties etc. (Fenders, inner and outer wells, headlamp mounting panels). Skill wise, I've successfully fabricated a lower A post replacement, and installed it along with a new rocker (sill) panel. (Sounds good, but what may have taken someone else a couple of days took me _months_). My next step is to check out the good bonnet from the local vendor. I'm asking for input as, before looking further, I'd like to know if people have had success with patch panels, or whether replacing the whole pieces with new and rebuilding the bonnet is the only way to make it look right. Many thanks for all contributions Nick Moseley *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: Repair/rebuild bonnet sites?
Sorry for not being more specific. Its a 78 Spit 1500. I'm in Delta, a suburb of Vancouver, British Columbia (Canada), about a 30 minute drive from the US/Canada border. Shipping cost is an issue as a bonnet is heavy, bulky and would need careful packing/crating. Customs and having to hire a customs broker are an issue if I don't personally bring it over the border. FedEx (I think) charged US$35. in broker fees to bring a $95 gift across, and that is in addition to the cost of the actual shipping. Don't know what they'd charge for something more expensive. Nick Moseley 78 Spit 1500 *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Smell of gas -(fuel!)
Most of us are not the first owners of our cars. Thought I'd share a recent experience, and maybe some-one will benefit. On to the tale: I'd always thought the aroma of a British car was part of their charm. A heady mixture of hot oil, (from the British self-oiling mechanism), exhaust fumes when backing up, combined with a vague tinge of gasoline. Well, the vague tinge of gasoline became more pronounced. The search began. No evidence of leakage in the lines around the carb, nor those that run in and out of the fuel pump. Hmm, small puddle on the ground near the back of the car, just forward of the wheels. Too far forward to be a leak in the tank. There is a short section of rubber fuel line where the lines change from plastic to metal. Just forward of the rear wheel, under the drivers' side, running alongside the chassis. In my case, that section had become porous. It oozed gas on being gently squeezed. (One wonders if it was even meant to be used for fuel). Have now changed it for proper fuel hose, and am hoping to get more miles (km) per tank. If you smell gas, this a place to check. (Or, you could just blame your passenger, no wait, not that kind of gas!) Nick Moseley /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Update- Long
Hi all. Was writing this to another lister, then thought: list traffic is low on the weekend, at least one lister needs their Spit-list-fix, (Fred?) so decided to share this long message and fill the void. I can't compare with the likes of Paul, Jon, Andre, Liv and others, (welding and forming patch panels challenge me) but have been moving ahead. I was on vacation again last week, so have made progress. I think my last message left off with the front suspension installed on the newly blasted and painted chassis, but asking the lists for ideas on how to spruce up the appearance of the brake lines. On the front lines, I used a wire brush then changed to 3 M type stripping wheel on a drill to remove crud and corrosion, then wiped with varsol, primed and painted with a chrome type paint. On the back lines, I tried a different approach. Lines were cleaned with a section of 3 M type abrasive pad soaked in Simple Green. I think this was a better process because the resulting surface was not as rough as with the stripping wheel. Also, although there was a greater length of line, the job was done faster. Again, varsol was used to prepare the surface for paint and let dry. This time I followed a listers' recommendation (thanks Jeff Terrio) and used Rustoleum Hammered Finish Silver paint. Excellent results with no primer necessary. Its may not be OE, but I think it'll get used on the rest of the lines. Any deterioration evident next Spring will dictate which way to go, if I haven't got the others lines done by then. In the meantime, left axle and rear suspension were removed from donor chassis, taken apart, cleaned, painted, greased and re-assembled. I used a right axle and suspension that I had renovated previously. Both were installed on new chassis, along with diff, spring, and rear brake lines. The chassis had its 4 feet, but needed new shoes. I have admired the wheels on another listers' car (CJ), and wanted this project to have nice shiny wheels. (Yes, to those still reading and paying attention, shiny wheels to go along with the shiny metal brake lines...). To that end, used the 3 M type pad soaked in Simple Green to clean 2 wheels, and the stripping wheel on a drill to clean another two. (The first two had no rust, just dirt and grime, the latter two had some surface rust that needed to be removed). Once there was no visible dirt or grime, used Varsol on successive paper towels, and kept on cleaning until there was no dirt or grime showing on the paper towel. Painted with Duplicolor Steel Wheel Silver paint (thanks John Acuff), and couldn't be more pleased. They all turned out great. So now I had a newly renovated rolling chassis, and the body intended for this chassis still sitting on another chassis. Body securing bolts were removed and inserted into holes in a piece of cardboard in a pattern approximating their location in the car. Small sections of cardboard were cut, holes made in them, and then used on the reverse side of the main cardboard to hold the body spacers under the bolts to which they belonged. Working alone the body was raised off the chassis. This involved a trolley jack, two long planks, and many small sections of wood. Four piles of wood carrying the planks, carrying the body, gradually rose into the air. When the clearance underneath was about 30 inches, the old chassis was dragged out and remaining bits stripped off it. (It had no engine etc.) The new chassis was rolled into position, and the body gradually lowered onto the new chassis. Daughter and her boyfriend assisted to hold up body and to remove planks at crucial points. The two bolts in front of the bulkhead were lined up and installed first, as they seemed to require the best alignment of body and chassis. After a little adjusting (really, only very little) some of the rest of the body securing bolts were installed. At the time of writing, there are 4 bolts in the trunk still to go, and two more in the body shell. The ones in the trunk have large slots so I'm hoping they won't present too much of a problem, and the two in the front of the body have their own nuts (as well they should...!) so as long as they go down their tunnels they should be OK as well. Fingers crossed! That will have to wait until next weekend, as its back to work next week. The project is located outside in a plastic barn. Progress will be incremental from now on, as its getting cold, and our West Coast rainy season from now 'til May is about to commence. Cheers Nick Moseley /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: Shiny Metal Brake Lines? - Thanks and Summary
Wow, you are awesome!! Thanks for your responses: Joe Curry, Doug Braun, the binnys (Jonathon(?)), Fred Thomas, Tod Jones, Liv Haasper, Andre Rousseau, Terry Thompson, Robert #55, Jeff Terrio, and Otto + Toto. Thanks to each of you. Thought I'd return the favour by posting this summary for posterity. The lines I have look like some kind of galvanized metal as opposed to copper. Issues: -concern was expressed about any process that removes too much of the outside material, such as coarse sandpaper -as well, that if left unprotected, the lines would then rapidly return to their previous state o even worse, -approaches included wire wheel, wire wool (including SOS or Brillo (for those across the pond), 3M Scotch pad, and 600 grit sandpaper. Cloth impregnated with metal polish was another option. -listers have enjoyed success with: paint on primer, and clear coat. Choices included normal automotive paint (hi Liv), to clear coat, to Silver Rustoleum Hammered Finish (no primer). -in all cases brake cleaner/degreaser would be used prior to applying any coating. With this all in mind, I went ahead and tried both a fine wire wool and a 3M Scotch pad. Both seemed to work well, but the Scotch pad won out as it didn't cover the piece and me in small pieces of wire wool. This was followed by primer and a metallic finish paint I had on hand. Looks excellent! I should mention that getting new lines was another option discussed. Budget restraints and time were, as always, contributing factors. FYI, the subject piece was the section that mounts in the front under the engine, and crosses from one side to the other. It's going on a newly painted chassis. I wanted to get this done, as the vertical links had been removed and freshly painted, and this line goes under one of them. It is now on, as are the links, and one side of freshly painted suspension. I hope to get the other side on this eve or tomorrow AM. After that, removing (from the donor chassis (hi Huw)), cleaning and painting the rear suspension are next. The balance of the brake lines will go on around that time. Its getting colder outside and as this work is going on in a plastic barn (tarp on frame) progress will probably slow down. Other family members are not keen on paint or cleaning fluif (er fluid, fluif is for brakes, sorry Joe it just doesn't seem to want to die) fumes permeating the house. Thanks again for the responses, and cheers all Nick Moseley /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
What to replace on my new engine?
Sorry if this is a duplication James, I suggest you also replace rear main oil seal. It's exposed and relatively easy to replace with the gearbox out. Cheap part too. You had one non-leaky engine (I'm still trying to get used to that concept) so this would help the new one remain so. It may also lengthen the life of the new clutch that someone suggested (great idea). How about the front seal as well. (Near/around/behind the timing chain/belt) Haven't done that myself, so can't comment on ease, I expect someone else can. Probably easier with engine out though. Another thought: if you can hear this run, then all ancillaries will be attached. How about offering the seller another #50 or so, and getting all of them, like the starter, alternator, distributor, water pump and fan etc. Same for manifolds, even if seller is keeping carb. Much cheaper to buy them this way than separately, and you'd have spares. It would also make the installation much easier and take much less time. (OK, I admit I'm a packrat when it comes to Spit spares, but you sound like you'll be keeping this car or another Spit around for a long time, and these things do wear out over time, makes sense to buy them cheaply if possible.) If I recall, the gearbox and engine are from different cars. Probably a good idea to test fit your new clutch parts and mate the box to the engine before EI-day (Engine Installation day), so you have the opportunity to change any non-matching component. Glad to hear you are Triumphing over this setback. Cheers Nick Moseley /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Thanks to Huw Upshall! and progress
Some of you may remember a post offering a free tub with rolling chassis. I'm the lucky fella that got it, and hope no-one minds if I give a public thanks to Huw. Thanks Huw! My wife and I fetched it 2 weeks ago, using a borrowed van and trailer. We left the house at 8 AM, and got home after 7:30 PM, having crossed the US/Canada border twice. (Makes a lot of sense that twice bit). Between never having pulled a trailer before, getting a free tub, being on the road all day, and the border crossing, it was quite an adventure. Only stopped for gas and a bag of chips all day. We didn't stop for food as the driver wasn't confident that he'd be able to back out of a parking spot. Some people... All this on our 22nd wedding anniversary. The next day we went out for breakfast (a treat for her, as I prefer to stay in bed) and again later for a v. nice dinner, so a good time was had by all. All the bolts holding the tub on are now removed, as is one half of the front suspension. That is now freshly cleaned and repainted along with the shock tower. A chassis that has been awaiting such an opportunity for 4 years or so should be ready tomorrow AM, after being newly blasted and painted. A major expense for this household's Spit budget, but the tub will have a nice looking home. This is to say thanks, and to share good news. Cheers Nick Moseley /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Spitfire Tub into Canada
Would the Canadian lister who brought a Spitfire shell (three if I recall) from the US into Canada please e-mail me off list. I'd like to ask about Canada Customs and declared value. My e-mail is [EMAIL PROTECTED] Many thanks, and sorry to bomb the list. Nick Moseley /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Smokey Tornado Part II/ Catastrophe averted
Thanks to all that replied.(Jeff, Terry, Doug, Philip, binman, and Greg). Listers are invaluable for the knowledge, reassurance, and cameraderie. Majority opinion is that it is probably going to be OK. I should add that it never actually ran dry, there was still oil it, just not very much. As with most things, time will tell. I worked til late last night. Installed the new filter (might as well, it took me all afternoon Saturday to get it, who makes Triumph? etc.), bought more oil just in case, topped it off, hooked up the gauge, drove around gingerly, getting it up to temp. and taking the gauge out of the glovebox to check it every few seconds. Things looked and sounded so far, so good. So ... I drove to work and back today, on the premise that if it was going to blow up, I'd sooner know sooner than later. The good news is that it didn't blow up, nor smoke out the tailpipe. No new odd sounds neither. On reflection, it took just over two litres of oil to top up, with a filter change. The book says capacity is 4.5 litres with filter change. If there were 2.5 litres in it at home, and it was still spurting out, there must have been about that or somewhat less just before the top up on the highway. As oil was still in the sump, and spurting out the pressure sender, I am concluding (yes, somewhat hopefully) that it was still circulating through the engine. At any rate, signs are good so far, and I'll keep my fingers crossed. I still suggest that as these cars are at least 20 years old, if you don't know that the sender has been replaced in recent memory, save yourself the scare I've just been through, and replace it now. Fairly cheap peace of mind. Once again, a plug for these lists. They make owning and driving a Spit so much more pleasureable, practical, and possible. Many thanks to all. Nick Moseley 78 Spit X-S, (standing for eX-Smoker, if only the driver could say the same). /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Catastrophe or near miss?/ Smokey Tornado
My 78 blew its oil sender in a spectacular way tonight. Those who would learn from another's lesson would be wise to replace their oil sender unit BEFORE it breaks. I'm left wondering if I've done any damage. The sheepish explanation: Driving home on the highway tonite, I noticed smoke coming out the back of the car... in a big way. By the time I could pull over, the oil light was glowing. The drivers side of the engine was sopping with oil, but no obvious source. I topped up with two liters of oil, and drove the 2 kms or so home, keeping revs down, and coasting for two blocks with engine turned off. (This is the sheepish confession part, because with hindsight I should have just walked away). On getting home, I changed the oil filter, topped off with more oil, cranked the engine over, and the source of the flood became obvious. Oil was pumping out the oil sender unit. I replaced it with a gauge, and pressure with engine hot is now 20 psi at 600 rpm idle, and 80 psi running at 2500-3000 rpm. No smoke, no leaks. The questions: based on these numbers, and the fact that it seems to run fine now, cold and warm, have I done damage?, and is there something else I can/should do now? (Other than hang my head in shame). Nick Moseley 78 Spit (Smokey Tornado), and 2 others. Delta B.C. (The irony is that I was coming home from looking at a Spit for sale. Philip, if you're reading this, yes, I lack self-control, and shouldn't be even looking, but in my defense I can say that I had decided against it, even before this strangely coincidental escapade.) /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
RE: Window seal placement
Hi Patrick, here's hopefully helpful observations, and group, for those interested, an update at the bottom. Can someone tell me 1) from what point to what point does this run. -From about 1/4 inch above the top of the topmost door hinge plate on the body, all the way up the pillar. At the top, the flat bit has been trimmed to fit under the chrome windscreen top, and the round bit is about 1/2 to 3/4 inches longer than that, just pointing up at the same angle as the pillar. The furflex also has a bit of seal poking up where the part that attaches to the body has been cut and the seal continues higher. I'm told this is the correct (and more waterproof) way to help seal the top. 2) What orientation does this lay in? -Round bit is out, flat bit close to the pillar. The seal part sits outside the furflex, with a narrow groove between. (Give between these two seals may be enough to create the groove). Where the body transitions from pillar to body, the seal moves outward, so it sits about 1/4 inches proud of the body. 3) How do you attach it -Glue I would think 4) should I wait until after the furflex is installed to place this? -Maybe some one who has done this should comment. From looking at my Spit, I'd think you would have a tough time installing the window seal once the furflex is installed, as the flat bit sits under the furflex. On the other hand, you want a bit of furflex to give you an idea how far from the actual pillar this seal sits. If you are sure your have the excess, perhaps cut an inch or so of furflex off, then use that to help see where to put the seal. Sorry, don't have the technology to publish pics. Good luck, and HTH Nick Moseley Enjoying my 78 back and forth to work every day (touch wood). Got a full AirCare (emissions) pass last Sept, so was able to re-insure without having to get an new pass. Thank goodness. Still learning welding and metal work on the sill of the 76 on the week-ends. So far have resisted the temptation to buy an 80 with minimal rust reputed to be a runner, and a 72 parts car. If that sounds like appropriate restraint, bear in mind that it is due only to the threatening comments from so far understanding spouse (I have 3 Spits with 3 chassis, the bodies and engines just aren't all on the right chassis), and a friend (and fellow lister) who very tactfully suggested I best focus on the current projects. (Thanks P.W. for the voice of reason). BTW, British Car week commuting from Delta to New Westminster (near Vancouver B.C. Canada)in the Spit every day was a total washout, until I saw a pale yellow TR2 or 3 on Highway 91 on Thurs or Fri eve. But that was it, for the whole week. Cheers, now I can go back into quiet mode. N /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
