Re: Stus-List Broken Boat Pictures

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

That is so sad..

I too am glad no one was hurt.

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2017 9:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Boat Pictures

 

Poor sad little bird. Glad everyone's safe. Hope you get back out soon.

 

Andy

C 40

Peregrine

Andrew Burton

61 W Narragansett

Newport, RI 

USA02840

 

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

+401 965-5260


On Jul 9, 2017, at 18:55, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List  > wrote:

Sorry Neil... This is my biggest nightmare every time I go out in heavy 
conditions... Let me know if I can be of any assistance...

Cheers, 

Aaron Rouhi

Admiral Maggie

79 30-1

Annapolis, MD

 


On Jul 9, 2017, at 5:33 PM, schiller via CnC-List  > wrote:

The following link has photos of the sad Corsair.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0TKNwrWoGJlLTBXRE5vTEVRN2c

We went up today and got all of our personal stuff off the boat and cover the 
hole in the deck since it is supposed to rain tonight.

The games begin tomorrow with Torresen Marine and the Insurance Adjuster.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
Temporarily in Muskegon, Michigan

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Re: Stus-List Broken Boat Pictures

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Poor sad little bird. Glad everyone's safe. Hope you get back out soon.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Jul 9, 2017, at 18:55, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Sorry Neil... This is my biggest nightmare every time I go out in heavy 
> conditions... Let me know if I can be of any assistance...
> 
> Cheers,
> Aaron Rouhi
> Admiral Maggie
> 79 30-1
> Annapolis, MD
> 
> 
> On Jul 9, 2017, at 5:33 PM, schiller via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>> The following link has photos of the sad Corsair.
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0TKNwrWoGJlLTBXRE5vTEVRN2c
>> 
>> We went up today and got all of our personal stuff off the boat and cover 
>> the hole in the deck since it is supposed to rain tonight.
>> 
>> The games begin tomorrow with Torresen Marine and the Insurance Adjuster.
>> 
>> Neil Schiller
>> 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
>> (C 35, Mark I)
>> "Corsair"
>> Temporarily in Muskegon, Michigan
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Stus-List Dismasating

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Contact your insurance company about this.  Also read your insurance policy
to see whether spars are covered.  They usually are.

-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Broken Boat Pictures

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

Sorry Neil... This is my biggest nightmare every time I go out in heavy 
conditions... Let me know if I can be of any assistance...

Cheers,
Aaron Rouhi
Admiral Maggie
79 30-1
Annapolis, MD


On Jul 9, 2017, at 5:33 PM, schiller via CnC-List 
> wrote:

The following link has photos of the sad Corsair.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0TKNwrWoGJlLTBXRE5vTEVRN2c

We went up today and got all of our personal stuff off the boat and cover the 
hole in the deck since it is supposed to rain tonight.

The games begin tomorrow with Torresen Marine and the Insurance Adjuster.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
Temporarily in Muskegon, Michigan
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Broken Boat Pictures

[schiller via CnC-List]

The following link has photos of the sad Corsair.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0TKNwrWoGJlLTBXRE5vTEVRN2c

We went up today and got all of our personal stuff off the boat and 
cover the hole in the deck since it is supposed to rain tonight.


The games begin tomorrow with Torresen Marine and the Insurance Adjuster.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
Temporarily in Muskegon, Michigan
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Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

[Doug Welch via CnC-List]

I thought that little door was to pass beers to the skipper while he's working 
in the locker ;) 

On Sunday, July 9, 2017 12:51 PM, Dave S  wrote:
 

 Thanks Doug - sorry to hear about the heat.  If heat in the locker is 
contributing to the overheating (if ) then you have other issues.  You can 
check the hose to the strainer from there.Weeds if any would be caught in the 
strainer, for sure check that. If you are not getting much water through to the 
exhaust, you may be able to hear it.  Sounds less muffled.   Mine gets loud - 
(like jimmy page.  ) Check your water pump belt tension.  (Btdt) When mine 
overheAts a light goes off and an alarm sounds.  Hope that helps.  On a hot day 
(once at the dock)  I lift the locker lid a bit and open the little trap door 
in the galley.  Lets water heater, fridge and engine heat out.  Yes, the design 
is less than ideal for shedding unwanted heat. Hope that helps.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 9, 2017, at 10:17 AM, Doug Welch  wrote:


We took a week and headed east (Trentport and back) and gradually loaded up the 
locker. Motor sailing on the return leg from Trenton to Cobourg the engine 
overheated. Fortunately the wind gods took pity on us and the wind piped up. We 
sailed for a couple of hours while the motor cooled. My wife sailed while I 
checked the impeller. It was in perfect shape. We unloaded the locker and the 
motor ran fine on the rest of our return to Frenchman's Bay. I think the 
overloading of the locker contributed to or was the cause of the overheating. 
My wife thinks we sucked up some weeds (we used the small boat channel going 
from Trenton to the Murray Canal). I am going to be more careful with what I 
place in the locker. I am still going to get more storage with the partition I 
installed but am going to avoid putting things like fenders, my code 0, etc. in 
the locker that will restrict air flow. 
Long windy entry but I do have a few questions for the group
My engine panel seems to a warning light for high temp that doesn't work. Do 
these lights work? (assuming the bulb works)
Do you think the overheating was caused by filling the locker? 

Has anyone installed additional ventilation in the locker? It seems like it 
would be relatively easy to install a vent and perhaps a small 12v fan to keep 
the air moving
Dave,    We ended up overnighting at the marina the Thursday before Canada Day 
and was just down the dock from you. Your boat is looking good.

Cheers, Doug WelchCeltic Knot85 33-2 c/b 

On Sunday, June 25, 2017 9:07 PM, "syerd...@gmail.com"  
wrote:
 

 Verrry interesting.    your refrigeration unit is in a completely 
different location.   Windstar has a plywood separator dividing the two spaces, 
but it's only a foot high at its tallest.  I was thinking after reading this 
thread to make a machine guard to cover the rotating parts, essentially leaving 
what I have intact.     Was in FB on Saturday, didn't think to look for you.  
Should have studied your boat more when you visited!Btw, Canada day and harbour 
day festivities are combined next weekend in Whitby.   Lots going on, probably 
the best weekend to visit if you can get a slip.  (I'm still on pier 7)

Dave.  
Sent from my iPad
On Jun 25, 2017, at 7:02 PM, Doug Welch  wrote:


Done 
C 33-2 Cockpit Locker Separator

  
|  
|  
|  
|   ||

  |

  |
|  
|   |  
C 33-2 Cockpit Locker Separator
 By Imgur Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet.  |   |

  |

  |

 
 

On Thursday, June 8, 2017 9:44 AM, doug.welch--- via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Thanks all for your input and ideas. I will share the solution I implement on

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
 On Wed, 7 Jun 2017 at 6:41 PM, Tortuga via CnC-List 
wrote:  On my 30, I use a piece of fishing net stretched between broom handles. 
I can drop the top handle to access the engine compartment. I try not to stow 
anything in the lazarette that is small enough to go through the net. So far so 
good. 
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AkpvkGQ7RaWRhvUpERLYFLJ4uYH1gQ

Derek Kennedy1979 C 30 mk1- TortugaBallantyne's Cove, NS
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All 

Re: Stus-List 1980 C 30 purchase queries

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I have had a 1980 version #593 for 24 years and I have had some of the
issues you mentioned. Some deck crazing near stanchions where I believe
previous owners (and maybe my boat partner and maybe myself) have put too
much stress on the stanchion (docking by feel). A small chainplate leak,
fixed by making up a new cover (no damage internal). No deck problems near
the dorade boxes. A few blisters about 20 years ago, took the bottom paint
off (the hard way) and have only had a few on the rudder since. 

 

Check the engine mounts (they are, if original like mine) 37 years old! I
have replaced mine.

 

And some of the other issues listed in some of the blogs, like the mast step
(if the oak block under the mast is not a quarter inch above the
floorboards, you may have a problem) and the 'C Smile').

 

There are good repair blogs for most of these issues, and if you are handy,
they are addressable by an owner. If not, buy a new boat.

 

We are still happy, the boat is stout, sails to its rating in decent wind
(not a light wind wonder).

 

Gary Nylander

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of T power
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, July 9, 2017 5:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T power ; Chris Hobson

Subject: Re: Stus-List 1980 C 30 purchase queries

 

I have a 1973 MKI . great boat. Solid hull. Last year when i bought it. I
sanded adout 4 layers of old bottom paint, found about 4 pin sized blisters,
had the rest of the paint removed by soda blasting. That reveled a few
thousand pin sized blisters. Some epoxy, lots of sanding. Followed by
barrier and bottom paint and it is good to go. 

I also have some softened deck next to the mast, stanchon spider cracks and
a port chainplate that is leaking, which will need addressing.

They are a great boat, very fun.

Get Outlook for Android  

 

  _  

From: CnC-List  > on behalf of Chris Hobson via
CnC-List  >
Sent: Saturday, July 8, 2017 4:08:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Chris Hobson
Subject: Stus-List 1980 C 30 purchase queries 

 

Hey all, I'm about to go through with a survey on a 1980 C 30, noted a few
things on my own initial inspection, curious if other 30 owners of this
vintage have had similar repairs and how much of a concern the repairs were.


 

Here's what I found: 

- Moisture along the top of the raised dorade boxes - heard something about
this area being a high stress area next to the mast

- Stanchion flex on one port-side spider cracking at the deck

- Owner states "one dime-size blister" is this a red herring? Thinking where
there's one blister there's more. One of the subjects were: any more than 6
blisters and the owner pays for the haul out. Have had two bad experiences
before on previous boats I surveyed wanted to be covered.

- Any idea what the consistency of the hull is on this vintage? I.E. balsa
cored at the waterline

 

Appreciate any thoughts or insights. 

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Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

My Universal 25XPB was overheating a bit at high rpm's.  After eliminating
all the usual suspects, I found pieces of the exchange pencil zincs in one
of the passes.  Scroll about halfway down here:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/heat_exchanger

My exchanger wasn't nearly as plugged as the one above.

It really doesn't take much to affect the heat transfer in marine diesel
heat exchangers.  Heat exchangers are fairly critically designed.  Pluggage
in one or two tubes in one pass can significantly affect the effectiveness
of the entire exchanger.  The flow of water through the remaining tubes
will increase.  The increase in velocity through those tubes will reduce
heat transfer, and so on and so on.

Once I cleaned out the zinc pieces, the engine ran at temp again.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, Jul 9, 2017 at 12:20 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The full locker should not have been a factor, if the cooling system is
> functioning properly.
> I had to motor 45 miles one hot August day. Could only go 4kts (1400 rpm)
> with the lazerett open. To keep the horn from sounding, i watched the yemp
> guage and kept it at 200-204deg. The horn and light came on at 212deg.
> Found out my heat exchanger tubes were over 50% plugged.
> I cleaned them using muratic acid, and a long 1/8 drill bit to clean out
> the tubes.
> This solved my over heating problem.
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery replacement time

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

I picked up a Johnson Controls group 31 AGM a year ago, a friend picked up 3 
for his house bank.
The 200 minutes reserve capacity is a plus, as is the bulk charge rate of about 
40 amps in my setup.
A downside is they weigh 71 lbs.

http://www.multivu.com/players/English/7848851-johnson-controls-agm-battery/docs/sell-sheet-1275152047.pdf

I got them at Total Battery on sale for $150 each plus tax and core deposit.

http://webstore.totalbattery.com/product-p/agm31p-825.htm

I doubt they are worth the $422 list price.

Costco is now carrying the JCI group 24 for I think around $166.


On long distance races it has no problems lasting 24+ hours running 
instruments, LED running lights, cabin
lights, VHF and occasional Autohelm ( legal under Loor SIs ). The previous West 
Marine group 24 would last
about 12 hours.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1

 






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Re: Stus-List Battery replacement time

[detroito91 via CnC-List]

Doug...where do yo find the room to put 6 +1 batteries on the landfall? I had a 
hard time fitting 3 + 1 under the quarter berth.Jim schwartzSEA YA!1981 38 
lfWashington nc 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/9/17  12:57 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: svpegasus38  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Battery replacement time 
I too am looking to replace my batteries. Current ones are group 27 agm's that 
have been in use since before 2003 when 2 owners ago installed them. I have 6 
house and 1 starting. Due to the location I have to stick with the AGM's. I 
will be following this thread, and chiming in if I find any good information.  


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale)Lf38 
Significant Other LF39 
 Original message From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
 Date: 7/9/17  09:48  (GMT-08:00) To: CnClist 
 Cc: "Dennis C."  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Battery replacement time 
Every boater has an opinion on batteries.  I've been using Delco Voyager wet 
cell batteries for almost 20 years.  Usually get 7-8 years life.  Except for 
the spill prevention aspect of AGMs, I think the Voyagers offer the most bang 
for the buck.  The pro fishermen like them also.
On the other hand, I just replaced the battery in my truck this morning.  
Advance Auto Motorcraft brand.  Didn't last 24 months.  Had to go through the 
idle relearn hassle.  Pain in the butt.  If it hadn't been a free replacement, 
I'd have switched the truck to Delco batteries.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Sun, Jul 9, 2017 at 11:28 AM, tim via CnC-List  wrote:
Hi, Its time for battery replacement.  I am presently using Interstate #31 Deep 
cell (2 house, 1 for start).  Looking to go AGM route and seeking advice for 
which manufacturer/brand seems to be most reliable and longevity for the money. 
 Leaning toward Lifeline after some research.  Very open to other 
recommendations based on experience.  I use a couple solar cells for trickle 
charging as on a mooring. Thanks for your advice. Tim29’ Mk1Malletts Bay, VTSV 
Sly Fox
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Stus-List Boat batteries

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I replaced mine a few years ago and went with Northstar AGMs (Group 31). These 
were highly rated then by several reviews. 


They claim to be made from 'virgin' (as opposed to recycled) lead, are ~ $350 
each and weigh at least 70 lbs.


The ones I got previously from Sams club (AGM--forgot the 'brand' name) lasted 
just beyond the end of their free replacement warranty period!


FWIW


Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C 36 XL/kcb





cenel...@aol.com

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Re: Stus-List Battery replacement time

[William Walker via CnC-List]

What impact does requirement of ISAF that batteries be of type that cannot leak 
electrolyte...does this require agm or gel for racers?  Or are wet cell Sealed 
sufficiently to comply?  I read to require agm or gel after 1/2012.. 
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Sunday, July 9, 2017 Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

Every boater has an opinion on batteries.  I've been using Delco Voyager wet 
cell batteries for almost 20 years.  Usually get 7-8 years life.  Except for 
the spill prevention aspect of AGMs, I think the Voyagers offer the most bang 
for the buck.  The pro fishermen like them also.


On the other hand, I just replaced the battery in my truck this morning.  
Advance Auto Motorcraft brand.  Didn't last 24 months.  Had to go through the 
idle relearn hassle.  Pain in the butt.  If it hadn't been a free replacement, 
I'd have switched the truck to Delco batteries.


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA


On Sun, Jul 9, 2017 at 11:28 AM, tim via CnC-List  wrote:

Hi,

 

Its time for battery replacement.  I am presently using Interstate #31 Deep 
cell (2 house, 1 for start).  Looking to go AGM route and seeking advice for 
which manufacturer/brand seems to be most reliable and longevity for the money. 
 Leaning toward Lifeline after some research.  Very open to other 
recommendations based on experience.  I use a couple solar cells for trickle 
charging as on a mooring.

 

Thanks for your advice.

 

Tim

29’ Mk1

Malletts Bay, VT

SV Sly Fox


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Re: Stus-List Broke my boat

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Scary!  Makes me reflect on my own maintenance and inspection practices.  I
always have a nagging fear that part of my rig will let loose, the mast
will come down, and someone will die.  Now I'm even more parinoid.  Glad to
hear no one was hurt.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jul 9, 2017 7:34 AM, "schiller via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> We were dis masted yesterday just off shore from Muskegon, Michigan
> yesterday.  The starboard chain plate bulkhead failed and the chain plate
> pulled out through the deck.  The mast snapped at the spreaders and fell
> off to the leeward side.
>
> We were in the starting stages of the Jolly Roger Shoreline race.  The
> conditions changed from about 11-12 kts (true) to 14-15 kts when the chain
> plate failed.  Waves were about 3 feet.  We had been on a beam reach doing
> 7.0-7.2 kts and hardened up to closehauled to see if we were going to be
> able to point to the turning mark when it failed.  We had about twenty
> seconds between hearing the pop and having the chain plate fly out of the
> deck with the mast failed.  Luckily, all were in the cockpit at failure.  I
> was just starting out to crash drop sails from the first pop and seeing the
> slack leeward shroud.  The helmsman had just started turning into the wind.
>
> After about an hour, we were able to get the main off and stowed and get
> the jib on deck with the mast lashed to the bow pulpit.  Took the boat back
> in to Muskegon to Torresen Marine and left it in their haulout well until
> Monday when they can start assessing it.
>
> It will come down to economics to see if the hull value will support a new
> mast and structural repairs necessary.
>
> The starboard chain plate had leaked in the past and I had glassed in the
> bulkhead and added a backing plate when I bought her (22 years ago) but the
> wood in the area does not look good.
>
> I will keep the list updated with how things pan out.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
> (C 35, Mark I)
> "Corsair"
> White Lake, Michigan
> (Now residing in Muskegon for the time being)
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery replacement time

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

When considering anything other than lead acid wet cells keep in mind that
all of your charging systems (alternator, solar, wind, and shore power)
will need to be properly setup for the alternative technology and
chemistry.  Wet cells aren't perfect but they offer a tremendous value and
make things very easy in terms of compatability.

Josh

On Jul 9, 2017 1:15 PM, "Persuasion37 via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Tim
>
> When I bought Persuasion in '05 she had 2- Group 4D Lifeline batteries has
> house batteries.  Served me very well.  In  2014 I replaced them in kind.
> Very happy with Lifeline and didn't find the price off putting
>
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
>
> On Jul 9, 2017, at 12:28 PM, tim via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
>
>
> Its time for battery replacement.  I am presently using Interstate #31
> Deep cell (2 house, 1 for start).  Looking to go AGM route and seeking
> advice for which manufacturer/brand seems to be most reliable and longevity
> for the money.  Leaning toward Lifeline after some research.  Very open to
> other recommendations based on experience.  I use a couple solar cells for
> trickle charging as on a mooring.
>
>
>
> Thanks for your advice.
>
>
>
> Tim
>
> 29’ Mk1
>
> Malletts Bay, VT
>
> SV Sly Fox
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Battery replacement time

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Here is another thing to consider when redesigning/replacing your
batteries.  The orientation of wet cells can affect their longevity.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/flooded_battery_orientation

Josh

On Jul 9, 2017 1:15 PM, "Persuasion37 via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Tim
>
> When I bought Persuasion in '05 she had 2- Group 4D Lifeline batteries has
> house batteries.  Served me very well.  In  2014 I replaced them in kind.
> Very happy with Lifeline and didn't find the price off putting
>
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
>
> On Jul 9, 2017, at 12:28 PM, tim via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
>
>
> Its time for battery replacement.  I am presently using Interstate #31
> Deep cell (2 house, 1 for start).  Looking to go AGM route and seeking
> advice for which manufacturer/brand seems to be most reliable and longevity
> for the money.  Leaning toward Lifeline after some research.  Very open to
> other recommendations based on experience.  I use a couple solar cells for
> trickle charging as on a mooring.
>
>
>
> Thanks for your advice.
>
>
>
> Tim
>
> 29’ Mk1
>
> Malletts Bay, VT
>
> SV Sly Fox
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

The full locker should not have been a factor, if the cooling system is 
functioning properly.  I had to motor 45 miles one hot August day. Could only 
go 4kts (1400 rpm) with the lazerett open. To keep the horn from sounding, i 
watched the yemp guage and kept it at 200-204deg. The horn and light came on at 
212deg. Found out my heat exchanger tubes were over 50% plugged. I cleaned them 
using muratic acid, and a long 1/8 drill bit to clean out the tubes. This 
solved my over heating problem.  If the engine is overloaded (or too much prop 
pitch) this can also lead to the engine running hot. Throttling Back 50-100 rpm 
will help this.  



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale)Lf38 
Significant Other LF39 
 Original message From: Doug Welch via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/9/17  07:17  (GMT-08:00) To: syerd...@gmail.com 
Cc: Doug Welch , cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2 
We took a week and headed east (Trentport and back) and gradually loaded up the 
locker. Motor sailing on the return leg from Trenton to Cobourg the engine 
overheated. Fortunately the wind gods took pity on us and the wind piped up. We 
sailed for a couple of hours while the motor cooled. My wife sailed while I 
checked the impeller. It was in perfect shape. We unloaded the locker and the 
motor ran fine on the rest of our return to Frenchman's Bay. I think the 
overloading of the locker contributed to or was the cause of the overheating. 
My wife thinks we sucked up some weeds (we used the small boat channel going 
from Trenton to the Murray Canal). I am going to be more careful with what I 
place in the locker. I am still going to get more storage with the partition I 
installed but am going to avoid putting things like fenders, my code 0, etc. in 
the locker that will restrict air flow. 
Long windy entry but I do have a few questions for the group
My engine panel seems to a warning light for high temp that doesn't work. Do 
these lights work? (assuming the bulb works)
Do you think the overheating was caused by filling the locker? 

Has anyone installed additional ventilation in the locker? It seems like it 
would be relatively easy to install a vent and perhaps a small 12v fan to keep 
the air moving
Dave,    We ended up overnighting at the marina the Thursday before Canada Day 
and was just down the dock from you. Your boat is looking good.

Cheers, Doug WelchCeltic Knot85 33-2 c/b 

On Sunday, June 25, 2017 9:07 PM, "syerd...@gmail.com"  
wrote:
  

 Verrry interesting.    your refrigeration unit is in a completely 
different location.   Windstar has a plywood separator dividing the two spaces, 
but it's only a foot high at its tallest.  I was thinking after reading this 
thread to make a machine guard to cover the rotating parts, essentially leaving 
what I have intact.     Was in FB on Saturday, didn't think to look for you.  
Should have studied your boat more when you visited!Btw, Canada day and harbour 
day festivities are combined next weekend in Whitby.   Lots going on, probably 
the best weekend to visit if you can get a slip.  (I'm still on pier 7)

Dave.  
Sent from my iPad
On Jun 25, 2017, at 7:02 PM, Doug Welch  wrote:

Done 
C 33-2 Cockpit Locker Separator

  C 33-2 Cockpit Locker Separator By Imgur  Imgur: The most 
awesome images on the Internet.  
 

On Thursday, June 8, 2017 9:44 AM, doug.welch--- via CnC-List 
 wrote:
  

 Thanks all for your input and ideas. I will share the solution I implement on

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
   On Wed, 7 Jun 2017 at 6:41 PM, Tortuga via CnC-List 
wrote:   On my 30, I use a piece of fishing net stretched between broom 
handles. I can drop the top handle to access the engine compartment. I try not 
to stow anything in the lazarette that is small enough to go through the net. 
So far so good. 
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AkpvkGQ7RaWRhvUpERLYFLJ4uYH1gQ

Derek Kennedy1979 C 30 mk1- TortugaBallantyne's Cove, NS
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  ___

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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


 

 ___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Battery replacement time

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Tim

When I bought Persuasion in '05 she had 2- Group 4D Lifeline batteries has 
house batteries.  Served me very well.  In  2014 I replaced them in kind.  Very 
happy with Lifeline and didn't find the price off putting

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jul 9, 2017, at 12:28 PM, tim via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hi,
>  
> Its time for battery replacement.  I am presently using Interstate #31 Deep 
> cell (2 house, 1 for start).  Looking to go AGM route and seeking advice for 
> which manufacturer/brand seems to be most reliable and longevity for the 
> money.  Leaning toward Lifeline after some research.  Very open to other 
> recommendations based on experience.  I use a couple solar cells for trickle 
> charging as on a mooring.
>  
> Thanks for your advice.
>  
> Tim
> 29’ Mk1
> Malletts Bay, VT
> SV Sly Fox
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Broke my boat

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

If the 35-2 needs an A4, there is a nice one for sale here for $1200.

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2017 12:58 PM
To: schiller 
Cc: Dave S ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broke my boat

 

My neighbour here (Whitby ON) took his "new" 35-2 out two weeks ago and  the  
engine went bang.  He bought the boat from the widow of his best friend, and 
this was to have been an inaugural sail, he was out with friends and family and 
received a tow back.  Pretty discouraged I think.  

Email me off list if you see a solution to two problems here

 

Dave.



Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 9, 2017, at 7:33 AM, schiller  > wrote:

We were dis masted yesterday just off shore from Muskegon, Michigan yesterday.  
The starboard chain plate bulkhead failed and the chain plate pulled out 
through the deck.  The mast snapped at the spreaders and fell off to the 
leeward side.

We were in the starting stages of the Jolly Roger Shoreline race.  The 
conditions changed from about 11-12 kts (true) to 14-15 kts when the chain 
plate failed.  Waves were about 3 feet.  We had been on a beam reach doing 
7.0-7.2 kts and hardened up to closehauled to see if we were going to be able 
to point to the turning mark when it failed.  We had about twenty seconds 
between hearing the pop and having the chain plate fly out of the deck with the 
mast failed.  Luckily, all were in the cockpit at failure.  I was just starting 
out to crash drop sails from the first pop and seeing the slack leeward shroud. 
 The helmsman had just started turning into the wind.

After about an hour, we were able to get the main off and stowed and get the 
jib on deck with the mast lashed to the bow pulpit.  Took the boat back in to 
Muskegon to Torresen Marine and left it in their haulout well until Monday when 
they can start assessing it.

It will come down to economics to see if the hull value will support a new mast 
and structural repairs necessary.

The starboard chain plate had leaked in the past and I had glassed in the 
bulkhead and added a backing plate when I bought her (22 years ago) but the 
wood in the area does not look good.

I will keep the list updated with how things pan out.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
White Lake, Michigan
(Now residing in Muskegon for the time being)

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Battery replacement time

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Maine sailor has his opinions and a great write up here:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/deep_cycle_battery

There is a pretty solid concensus that better batteries weigh more.  If you
are looking to source from a conventional store then find the heaviest
battery at the best price.

AGMs are better for charge rate and lack of spilling but they have limited
maintenance options.  You can't equilize or water.

I chose Trojan T -105REs.  6v golf cart batteries made to be resilient to
the effects of renewable energy charging practices.  They also have a
watering kit which makes watering super easy.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Jul 9, 2017 12:29 PM, "tim via CnC-List"  wrote:

> Hi,
>
>
>
> Its time for battery replacement.  I am presently using Interstate #31
> Deep cell (2 house, 1 for start).  Looking to go AGM route and seeking
> advice for which manufacturer/brand seems to be most reliable and longevity
> for the money.  Leaning toward Lifeline after some research.  Very open to
> other recommendations based on experience.  I use a couple solar cells for
> trickle charging as on a mooring.
>
>
>
> Thanks for your advice.
>
>
>
> Tim
>
> 29’ Mk1
>
> Malletts Bay, VT
>
> SV Sly Fox
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Broke my boat

[Dave S via CnC-List]

My neighbour here (Whitby ON) took his "new" 35-2 out two weeks ago and  the  
engine went bang.  He bought the boat from the widow of his best friend, and 
this was to have been an inaugural sail, he was out with friends and family and 
received a tow back.  Pretty discouraged I think.  
Email me off list if you see a solution to two problems here

Dave.


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 9, 2017, at 7:33 AM, schiller  wrote:
> 
> We were dis masted yesterday just off shore from Muskegon, Michigan 
> yesterday.  The starboard chain plate bulkhead failed and the chain plate 
> pulled out through the deck.  The mast snapped at the spreaders and fell off 
> to the leeward side.
> 
> We were in the starting stages of the Jolly Roger Shoreline race.  The 
> conditions changed from about 11-12 kts (true) to 14-15 kts when the chain 
> plate failed.  Waves were about 3 feet.  We had been on a beam reach doing 
> 7.0-7.2 kts and hardened up to   closehauled to see if we were going to 
> be able to point to the turning mark when it failed.  We had about twenty 
> seconds between hearing the pop and having the chain plate fly out of the 
> deck with the mast failed.  Luckily, all were in the cockpit at failure.  I 
> was just starting out to crash drop sails from the first pop and seeing the 
> slack leeward shroud.  The helmsman had just started turning into the wind.
> 
> After about an hour, we were able to get the main off and stowed and get the 
> jib on deck with the mast lashed to the bow pulpit.  Took the boat back in to 
> Muskegon to Torresen Marine and left it in their haulout well until Monday 
> when they can start assessing it.
> 
> It will come down to economics to see if the hull value will support a new 
> mast and structural repairs necessary.
> 
> The starboard chain plate had leaked in the past and I had glassed in the 
> bulkhead and added a backing plate when I bought her (22 years ago) but the 
> wood in the area does not look good.
> 
> I will keep the list updated with how things pan out.
> 
> Neil Schiller
> 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
> (C 35, Mark I)
> "Corsair"
> White Lake, Michigan
> (Now residing in Muskegon for the time being)
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Battery replacement time

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I too am looking to replace my batteries. Current ones are group 27 agm's that 
have been in use since before 2003 when 2 owners ago installed them. I have 6 
house and 1 starting. Due to the location I have to stick with the AGM's. I 
will be following this thread, and chiming in if I find any good information.  


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale)Lf38 
Significant Other LF39 
 Original message From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
 Date: 7/9/17  09:48  (GMT-08:00) To: CnClist 
 Cc: "Dennis C."  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Battery replacement time 
Every boater has an opinion on batteries.  I've been using Delco Voyager wet 
cell batteries for almost 20 years.  Usually get 7-8 years life.  Except for 
the spill prevention aspect of AGMs, I think the Voyagers offer the most bang 
for the buck.  The pro fishermen like them also.
On the other hand, I just replaced the battery in my truck this morning.  
Advance Auto Motorcraft brand.  Didn't last 24 months.  Had to go through the 
idle relearn hassle.  Pain in the butt.  If it hadn't been a free replacement, 
I'd have switched the truck to Delco batteries.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Sun, Jul 9, 2017 at 11:28 AM, tim via CnC-List  wrote:
Hi, Its time for battery replacement.  I am presently using Interstate #31 Deep 
cell (2 house, 1 for start).  Looking to go AGM route and seeking advice for 
which manufacturer/brand seems to be most reliable and longevity for the money. 
 Leaning toward Lifeline after some research.  Very open to other 
recommendations based on experience.  I use a couple solar cells for trickle 
charging as on a mooring. Thanks for your advice. Tim29’ Mk1Malletts Bay, VTSV 
Sly Fox
___



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Battery replacement time

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

IMHO gels are superior to AGM if you have the correct charging systems for
them. If you do go AGM, *by far* the cheapest way is getting GRP 31 AGMs
from Sam's Club. They are relabeled Dekas and thus identical to West Marine
AGMs for literally half the price. Lifeline will be a LOT more money and
unless you are really on top of the special AGM requirements, won't last
very long anyway.

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com  

 

Coquina

C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of tim via
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2017 12:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: tim 
Subject: Stus-List Battery replacement time

 

Hi,

 

Its time for battery replacement.  I am presently using Interstate #31 Deep
cell (2 house, 1 for start).  Looking to go AGM route and seeking advice for
which manufacturer/brand seems to be most reliable and longevity for the
money.  Leaning toward Lifeline after some research.  Very open to other
recommendations based on experience.  I use a couple solar cells for trickle
charging as on a mooring.

 

Thanks for your advice.

 

Tim

29' Mk1

Malletts Bay, VT

SV Sly Fox

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Broke my boat

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Wow, glad nobody was hurt.

Dave.  33-2

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 9, 2017, at 11:41 AM, wwadjo...@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Neil,
>   Scary stuff.  Glad no one hurt.  
> Bill Walker 
> Evening Star
> CnC 36
> Pentwater, Mi
> 
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> 
> 
> 
> On Sunday, July 9, 2017 schiller via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> We were dis masted yesterday just off shore from Muskegon, Michigan 
> yesterday.  The starboard chain plate bulkhead failed and the chain plate 
> pulled out through the deck.  The mast snapped at the spreaders and fell off 
> to the leeward side.
> 
> We were in the starting stages of the Jolly Roger Shoreline race.  The 
> conditions changed from about 11-12 kts (true) to 14-15 kts when the chain 
> plate failed.  Waves were about 3 feet.  We had been on a beam reach doing 
> 7.0-7.2 kts and hardened up to   closehauled to see if we were going to 
> be able to point to the turning mark when it failed.  We had about twenty 
> seconds between hearing the pop and having the chain plate fly out of the 
> deck with the mast failed.  Luckily, all were in the cockpit at failure.  I 
> was just starting out to crash drop sails from the first pop and seeing the 
> slack leeward shroud.  The helmsman had just started turning into the wind.
> 
> After about an hour, we were able to get the main off and stowed and get the 
> jib on deck with the mast lashed to the bow pulpit.  Took the boat back in to 
> Muskegon to Torresen Marine and left it in their haulout well until Monday 
> when they can start assessing it.
> 
> It will come down to economics to see if the hull value will support a new 
> mast and structural repairs necessary.
> 
> The starboard chain plate had leaked in the past and I had glassed in the 
> bulkhead and added a backing plate when I bought her (22 years ago) but the 
> wood in the area does not look good.
> 
> I will keep the list updated with how things pan out.
> 
> Neil Schiller
> 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
> (C 35, Mark I)
> "Corsair"
> White Lake, Michigan
> (Now residing in Muskegon for the time being)
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Thanks Doug - sorry to hear about the heat.  
If heat in the locker is contributing to the overheating (if ) then you 
have other issues.  You can check the hose to the strainer from there.
Weeds if any would be caught in the strainer, for sure check that. 
If you are not getting much water through to the exhaust, you may be able to 
hear it.  Sounds less muffled.   Mine gets loud - (like jimmy page.  ) Check 
your water pump belt tension.  (Btdt) 
When mine overheAts a light goes off and an alarm sounds.  Hope that helps.  
On a hot day (once at the dock)  I lift the locker lid a bit and open the 
little trap door in the galley.  Lets water heater, fridge and engine heat out. 
 Yes, the design is less than ideal for shedding unwanted heat.
 Hope that helps.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 9, 2017, at 10:17 AM, Doug Welch  wrote:
> 
> We took a week and headed east (Trentport and back) and gradually loaded up 
> the locker. Motor sailing on the return leg from Trenton to Cobourg the 
> engine overheated. Fortunately the wind gods took pity on us and the wind 
> piped up. We sailed for a couple of hours while the motor cooled. My wife 
> sailed while I checked the impeller. It was in perfect shape. We unloaded the 
> locker and the motor ran fine on the rest of our return to Frenchman's Bay. I 
> think the overloading of the locker contributed to or was the cause of the 
> overheating. My wife thinks we sucked up some weeds (we used the small boat 
> channel going from Trenton to the Murray Canal). I am going to be more 
> careful with what I place in the locker. I am still going to get more storage 
> with the partition I installed but am going to avoid putting things like 
> fenders, my code 0, etc. in the locker that will restrict air flow. 
> 
> Long windy entry but I do have a few questions for the group
> 
> My engine panel seems to a warning light for high temp that doesn't work. 
> Do these lights work? (assuming the bulb works)
> 
> Do you think the overheating was caused by filling the locker? 
> 
> 
> Has anyone installed additional ventilation in the locker? It seems like it 
> would be relatively easy to install a vent and perhaps a small 12v fan to 
> keep the air moving
> 
> Dave,
> We ended up overnighting at the marina the Thursday before Canada Day and 
> was just down the dock from you. Your boat is looking good.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
>  
> Doug Welch
> Celtic Knot
> 85 33-2 c/b
> 
> 
> On Sunday, June 25, 2017 9:07 PM, "syerd...@gmail.com"  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Verrry interesting.your refrigeration unit is in a completely 
> different location.   Windstar has a plywood separator dividing the two 
> spaces, but it's only a foot high at its tallest.  I was thinking after 
> reading this thread to make a machine guard to cover the rotating parts, 
> essentially leaving what I have intact. 
> Was in FB on Saturday, didn't think to look for you.  Should have studied 
> your boat more when you visited!
> Btw, Canada day and harbour day festivities are combined next weekend in 
> Whitby.   Lots going on, probably the best weekend to visit if you can get a 
> slip.  (I'm still on pier 7)
> 
> 
> Dave.  
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Jun 25, 2017, at 7:02 PM, Doug Welch  wrote:
>> 
>> Done 
>> 
>> C 33-2 Cockpit Locker Separator
>> 
>> C 33-2 Cockpit Locker Separator
>> By Imgur
>> Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Thursday, June 8, 2017 9:44 AM, doug.welch--- via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks all for your input and ideas. I will share the solution I implement on
>> 
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>> 
>> On Wed, 7 Jun 2017 at 6:41 PM, Tortuga via CnC-List
>>  wrote:
>> On my 30, I use a piece of fishing net stretched between broom handles. I 
>> can drop the top handle to access the engine compartment. I try not to stow 
>> anything in the lazarette that is small enough to go through the net. So far 
>> so good. 
>> 
>> https://1drv.ms/i/s!AkpvkGQ7RaWRhvUpERLYFLJ4uYH1gQ
>> 
>> Derek Kennedy
>> 1979 C 30 mk1- Tortuga
>> Ballantyne's Cove, NS
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Battery replacement time

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Every boater has an opinion on batteries.  I've been using Delco Voyager
wet cell batteries for almost 20 years.  Usually get 7-8 years life.
Except for the spill prevention aspect of AGMs, I think the Voyagers offer
the most bang for the buck.  The pro fishermen like them also.

On the other hand, I just replaced the battery in my truck this morning.
Advance Auto Motorcraft brand.  Didn't last 24 months.  Had to go through
the idle relearn hassle.  Pain in the butt.  If it hadn't been a free
replacement, I'd have switched the truck to Delco batteries.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, Jul 9, 2017 at 11:28 AM, tim via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi,
>
>
>
> Its time for battery replacement.  I am presently using Interstate #31
> Deep cell (2 house, 1 for start).  Looking to go AGM route and seeking
> advice for which manufacturer/brand seems to be most reliable and longevity
> for the money.  Leaning toward Lifeline after some research.  Very open to
> other recommendations based on experience.  I use a couple solar cells for
> trickle charging as on a mooring.
>
>
>
> Thanks for your advice.
>
>
>
> Tim
>
> 29’ Mk1
>
> Malletts Bay, VT
>
> SV Sly Fox
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Broke my boat

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Neil,
  Scary stuff.  Glad no one hurt.  
Bill Walker 
Evening Star
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Sunday, July 9, 2017 schiller via CnC-List  wrote:

We were dis masted yesterday just off shore from Muskegon, Michigan yesterday.  
The starboard chain plate bulkhead failed and the chain plate pulled out 
through the deck.  The mast snapped at the spreaders and fell off to the 
leeward side.

We were in the starting stages of the Jolly Roger Shoreline race.  The 
conditions changed from about 11-12 kts (true) to 14-15 kts when the chain 
plate failed.  Waves were about 3 feet.  We had been on a beam reach doing 
7.0-7.2 kts and hardened up to closehauled to see if we were going to be able 
to point to the turning mark when it failed.  We had about twenty seconds 
between hearing the pop and having the chain plate fly out of the deck with the 
mast failed.  Luckily, all were in the cockpit at failure.  I was just starting 
out to crash drop sails from the first pop and seeing the slack leeward shroud. 
 The helmsman had just started turning into the wind.

After about an hour, we were able to get the main off and stowed and get the 
jib on deck with the mast lashed to the bow pulpit.  Took the boat back in to 
Muskegon to Torresen Marine and left it in their haulout well until Monday when 
they can start assessing it.

It will come down to economics to see if the hull value will support a new mast 
and structural repairs necessary.

The starboard chain plate had leaked in the past and I had glassed in the 
bulkhead and added a backing plate when I bought her (22 years ago) but the 
wood in the area does not look good.

I will keep the list updated with how things pan out.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
White Lake, Michigan
(Now residing in Muskegon for the time being)

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Re: Stus-List 1980 C 30 purchase queries

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Actually, the "pin size blisters" may be more what some of us call gelcoat
pox.  Older C's were prone to gelcoat pox near the boot stripe/waterline
area.  The pox is pretty much limited to the gelcoat.  I think C applied
the gelcoat a bit too thick in this area.

I fixed Touche's pox and applied barrier coat in 2007.  Despite the
seemingly hundreds of pox spot, there were no blisters, none.  No
recurrence to date.

They are primarily cosmetic and are fairly easily fixed.  Here's a couple
pics:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsdlFYdGp0bnpjcTQ
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsU0IzdG5LQjUwczQ

A couple hours with a right angle die grinder with cone shaped grinding
stone followed by a few swipes of AwlFair or 3M Premium Putty and some time
with a sander and they're fixed.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, Jul 9, 2017 at 8:56 AM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Clearly the blisters didn’t slow your ambition to fix her up and sail, I
> appreciate your ambition. And that blisters were hiding so far under the
> surface tells me that its something of a hidden problem.
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
>
>
>
> On Jul 9, 2017, at 2:58 AM, T power  wrote:
>
> I have a 1973 MKI . great boat. Solid hull. Last year when i bought it. I
> sanded adout 4 layers of old bottom paint, found about 4 pin sized
> blisters, had the rest of the paint removed by soda blasting. That reveled
> a few thousand pin sized blisters. Some epoxy, lots of sanding. Followed by
> barrier and bottom paint and it is good to go.
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

[Doug Welch via CnC-List]

We took a week and headed east (Trentport and back) and gradually loaded up the 
locker. Motor sailing on the return leg from Trenton to Cobourg the engine 
overheated. Fortunately the wind gods took pity on us and the wind piped up. We 
sailed for a couple of hours while the motor cooled. My wife sailed while I 
checked the impeller. It was in perfect shape. We unloaded the locker and the 
motor ran fine on the rest of our return to Frenchman's Bay. I think the 
overloading of the locker contributed to or was the cause of the overheating. 
My wife thinks we sucked up some weeds (we used the small boat channel going 
from Trenton to the Murray Canal). I am going to be more careful with what I 
place in the locker. I am still going to get more storage with the partition I 
installed but am going to avoid putting things like fenders, my code 0, etc. in 
the locker that will restrict air flow. 
Long windy entry but I do have a few questions for the group
My engine panel seems to a warning light for high temp that doesn't work. Do 
these lights work? (assuming the bulb works)
Do you think the overheating was caused by filling the locker? 

Has anyone installed additional ventilation in the locker? It seems like it 
would be relatively easy to install a vent and perhaps a small 12v fan to keep 
the air moving
Dave,    We ended up overnighting at the marina the Thursday before Canada Day 
and was just down the dock from you. Your boat is looking good.

Cheers, Doug WelchCeltic Knot85 33-2 c/b 

On Sunday, June 25, 2017 9:07 PM, "syerd...@gmail.com"  
wrote:
 

 Verrry interesting.    your refrigeration unit is in a completely 
different location.   Windstar has a plywood separator dividing the two spaces, 
but it's only a foot high at its tallest.  I was thinking after reading this 
thread to make a machine guard to cover the rotating parts, essentially leaving 
what I have intact.     Was in FB on Saturday, didn't think to look for you.  
Should have studied your boat more when you visited!Btw, Canada day and harbour 
day festivities are combined next weekend in Whitby.   Lots going on, probably 
the best weekend to visit if you can get a slip.  (I'm still on pier 7)

Dave.  
Sent from my iPad
On Jun 25, 2017, at 7:02 PM, Doug Welch  wrote:


Done 
C 33-2 Cockpit Locker Separator

  
|  
|  
|  
|   ||

  |

  |
|  
|   |  
C 33-2 Cockpit Locker Separator
 By Imgur Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet.  |   |

  |

  |

 
 

On Thursday, June 8, 2017 9:44 AM, doug.welch--- via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Thanks all for your input and ideas. I will share the solution I implement on

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
 On Wed, 7 Jun 2017 at 6:41 PM, Tortuga via CnC-List 
wrote:  On my 30, I use a piece of fishing net stretched between broom handles. 
I can drop the top handle to access the engine compartment. I try not to stow 
anything in the lazarette that is small enough to go through the net. So far so 
good. 
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AkpvkGQ7RaWRhvUpERLYFLJ4uYH1gQ

Derek Kennedy1979 C 30 mk1- TortugaBallantyne's Cove, NS
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___

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Re: Stus-List black water tanks on C 35mkII

[Bill Hoyne via CnC-List]

Hi Greg,
Thanks for the info. 
I was wondering how to dismantle the cabinetry. What do you have to do and 
where are the screws? Do you have to take the sink area apart and then the back 
panel? How is that back pannel connected to the side bulkheads?   It sure looks 
like a major job and a PITA. How did you route the new hoses from the forepeak 
to the thru-hulls?

Cheers,
Bill

> On Jul 8, 2017, at 8:42 PM, Greg Swetka via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have a C 35mkII 1974 hull #277 and sailed another one when they were new 
> and worked at a C dealership as a teenager, at about the time they were 
> built. They were delivered with a dinky tank, sandwiched between the hull and 
> the bulkhead in the head compartment. It was a very unique construction 
> technique that incorporated a double wall bladder that was placed through a 
> small opening in the head compartment in the shelf. There was a solution of 
> epoxy and vermiculite in between the double walls and then they were inflated 
> until the epoxy set up. The tank was rated at about 11 gallons but most would 
> realistically hold only about 8 if they were lucky. Here in the Great Lakes, 
> that just didn't cut it. On Piper, I installed a 40 gallon bladder under the 
> forepeak and the removal of the old tank, involved dismantling the cabinetry 
> in the head, to then pull the outer bulkhead away enough to remove the old 
> tank. It was quite a job, but well worth it in the long run.
> 
> Greg Swetka
> S.V. Piper
> C
> Lake St. Clair
> Grosse Pointe Park, MI
>> Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 19:04:47 -0500
>> From: Bill Hoyne 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Jean-Guy Nadeau 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Black water tanks
>> Message-ID: 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> That is a good question. I have a 35mkii and it has a black water ?tank? 
>> behind the head. It is not connected and I would like to reconnect it. Does 
>> any one know what size (gallons) it is? It seem to be somewhat collapsable - 
>> is it? Are they robust? Can they be removed/replaced? The only outlet is the 
>> pump out on the deck. Can I replumb it so I can pump it out through the 
>> thru-hull?
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Bill Hoyne
>> Mithrandir
>> ?74 C MkII
>> in Victoria,BC
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jul 7, 2017, at 11:19 PM, Jean-Guy Nadeau via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Does anyone know if the 35MK2 were fitted with black water tanks when 
>>> manufactured in the mid-70?s?
>>> 
>>> Cheers, J-G 
>>> Callisto, 33 mk2
>>> Victoria BC
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 5
>> Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 19:13:06 -0500
>> From: Bill Hoyne 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List Volvo Penta 2003 flow lines
>> Message-ID: <1e861929-88a2-4d03-ab7b-bd404c13a...@telus.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> Hi All,
>> I have a Volvo Penta 2003 in my C 35 and I developed a leak in the flow 
>> line that screws into the injector. Diesel is leaking ( spurting) out 
>> between the bolt and the line just above the injector. I cleaned about 500cc 
>> out of the bilge :-(  I have not unscrewed it yet and before I do I would 
>> like to know what are the options? Can the fitting be re-soldered? Does it 
>> have to be replaced? Does anyone know where I can find  replacement flow 
>> lines - it?s from the early ?80?s. ( At a reasonable cost?)
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Bill Hoyne
>> Mithrandir
>> ?74 C MkII
>> in Victoria,BC
>> 
>> 
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 6
>> Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 20:21:40 -0400
>> From: Josh Muckley 
>> To: "C List" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Volvo Penta 2003 flow lines
>> Message-ID:
>>   
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> I would say that it probably could be repaired but probably won't be worth
>> it.  Just get new ones.  I looks like the volvo site should be helpful.  I
>> didn't have your engine model so I got stopped pretty early in the search.
>> 
>> 

Re: Stus-List 1980 C 30 purchase queries

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Clearly the blisters didn’t slow your ambition to fix her up and sail, I 
appreciate your ambition. And that blisters were hiding so far under the 
surface tells me that its something of a hidden problem.

Thanks,
Chris



> On Jul 9, 2017, at 2:58 AM, T power  wrote:
> 
> I have a 1973 MKI . great boat. Solid hull. Last year when i bought it. I 
> sanded adout 4 layers of old bottom paint, found about 4 pin sized blisters, 
> had the rest of the paint removed by soda blasting. That reveled a few 
> thousand pin sized blisters. Some epoxy, lots of sanding. Followed by barrier 
> and bottom paint and it is good to go. 
> I also have some softened deck next to the mast, stanchon spider cracks and a 
> port chainplate that is leaking, which will need addressing.
> They are a great boat, very fun.
> 
> Get Outlook for Android 
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Chris Hobson via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Saturday, July 8, 2017 4:08:00 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Chris Hobson
> Subject: Stus-List 1980 C 30 purchase queries
>  
> Hey all, I'm about to go through with a survey on a 1980 C 30, noted a few 
> things on my own initial inspection, curious if other 30 owners of this 
> vintage have had similar repairs and how much of a concern the repairs were. 
> 
> Here’s what I found:
> - Moisture along the top of the raised dorade boxes - heard something about 
> this area being a high stress area next to the mast
> - Stanchion flex on one port-side spider cracking at the deck
> - Owner states “one dime-size blister” is this a red herring? Thinking where 
> there’s one blister there’s more. One of the subjects were: any more than 6 
> blisters and the owner pays for the haul out. Have had two bad experiences 
> before on previous boats I surveyed wanted to be covered.
> - Any idea what the consistency of the hull is on this vintage? I.E. balsa 
> cored at the waterline
> 
> Appreciate any thoughts or insights. 

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Re: Stus-List Broke my boat

[schiller via CnC-List]

We will have pictures later.  We are going back up to clean out the 
personal gear and will take pictures.


Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
Currently in limbo in Muskegon, Michigan

On 7/9/2017 8:51 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Neil,

Very sorry to hear.  Hope the inspection goes better than expected.

Wish I had parts to help you.

Will you have pictures available later?

Dennis C.

On Sun, Jul 9, 2017 at 6:33 AM, schiller via CnC-List 
> wrote:


We were dis masted yesterday just off shore from Muskegon,
Michigan yesterday.  The starboard chain plate bulkhead failed and
the chain plate pulled out through the deck. The mast snapped at
the spreaders and fell off to the leeward side.

We were in the starting stages of the Jolly Roger Shoreline race. 
The conditions changed from about 11-12 kts (true) to 14-15 kts

when the chain plate failed. Waves were about 3 feet.  We had been
on a beam reach doing 7.0-7.2 kts and hardened up to closehauled
to see if we were going to be able to point to the turning mark
when it failed.  We had about twenty seconds between hearing the
pop and having the chain plate fly out of the deck with the mast
failed.  Luckily, all were in the cockpit at failure.  I was just
starting out to crash drop sails from the first pop and seeing the
slack leeward shroud.  The helmsman had just started turning into
the wind.

After about an hour, we were able to get the main off and stowed
and get the jib on deck with the mast lashed to the bow pulpit. 
Took the boat back in to Muskegon to Torresen Marine and left it

in their haulout well until Monday when they can start assessing it.

It will come down to economics to see if the hull value will
support a new mast and structural repairs necessary.

The starboard chain plate had leaked in the past and I had glassed
in the bulkhead and added a backing plate when I bought her (22
years ago) but the wood in the area does not look good.

I will keep the list updated with how things pan out.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
White Lake, Michigan
(Now residing in Muskegon for the time being)

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If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go
to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List Broke my boat

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Neil,

Very sorry to hear.  Hope the inspection goes better than expected.

Wish I had parts to help you.

Will you have pictures available later?

Dennis C.

On Sun, Jul 9, 2017 at 6:33 AM, schiller via CnC-List  wrote:

> We were dis masted yesterday just off shore from Muskegon, Michigan
> yesterday.  The starboard chain plate bulkhead failed and the chain plate
> pulled out through the deck.  The mast snapped at the spreaders and fell
> off to the leeward side.
>
> We were in the starting stages of the Jolly Roger Shoreline race.  The
> conditions changed from about 11-12 kts (true) to 14-15 kts when the chain
> plate failed.  Waves were about 3 feet.  We had been on a beam reach doing
> 7.0-7.2 kts and hardened up to closehauled to see if we were going to be
> able to point to the turning mark when it failed.  We had about twenty
> seconds between hearing the pop and having the chain plate fly out of the
> deck with the mast failed.  Luckily, all were in the cockpit at failure.  I
> was just starting out to crash drop sails from the first pop and seeing the
> slack leeward shroud.  The helmsman had just started turning into the wind.
>
> After about an hour, we were able to get the main off and stowed and get
> the jib on deck with the mast lashed to the bow pulpit.  Took the boat back
> in to Muskegon to Torresen Marine and left it in their haulout well until
> Monday when they can start assessing it.
>
> It will come down to economics to see if the hull value will support a new
> mast and structural repairs necessary.
>
> The starboard chain plate had leaked in the past and I had glassed in the
> bulkhead and added a backing plate when I bought her (22 years ago) but the
> wood in the area does not look good.
>
> I will keep the list updated with how things pan out.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
> (C 35, Mark I)
> "Corsair"
> White Lake, Michigan
> (Now residing in Muskegon for the time being)
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Broke my boat

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Neil,

So sorry for your loss!  Same thing happened to a Sabre last week.

Joel

On Sun, Jul 9, 2017 at 7:34 AM schiller via CnC-List 
wrote:

> We were dis masted yesterday just off shore from Muskegon, Michigan
> yesterday.  The starboard chain plate bulkhead failed and the chain plate
> pulled out through the deck.  The mast snapped at the spreaders and fell
> off to the leeward side.
>
> We were in the starting stages of the Jolly Roger Shoreline race.  The
> conditions changed from about 11-12 kts (true) to 14-15 kts when the chain
> plate failed.  Waves were about 3 feet.  We had been on a beam reach doing
> 7.0-7.2 kts and hardened up to closehauled to see if we were going to be
> able to point to the turning mark when it failed.  We had about twenty
> seconds between hearing the pop and having the chain plate fly out of the
> deck with the mast failed.  Luckily, all were in the cockpit at failure.  I
> was just starting out to crash drop sails from the first pop and seeing the
> slack leeward shroud.  The helmsman had just started turning into the wind.
>
> After about an hour, we were able to get the main off and stowed and get
> the jib on deck with the mast lashed to the bow pulpit.  Took the boat back
> in to Muskegon to Torresen Marine and left it in their haulout well until
> Monday when they can start assessing it.
>
> It will come down to economics to see if the hull value will support a new
> mast and structural repairs necessary.
>
> The starboard chain plate had leaked in the past and I had glassed in the
> bulkhead and added a backing plate when I bought her (22 years ago) but the
> wood in the area does not look good.
>
> I will keep the list updated with how things pan out.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
> (C 35, Mark I)
> "Corsair"
> White Lake, Michigan
> (Now residing in Muskegon for the time being)
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Broke my boat

[schiller via CnC-List]

We were dis masted yesterday just off shore from Muskegon, Michigan 
yesterday.  The starboard chain plate bulkhead failed and the chain 
plate pulled out through the deck.  The mast snapped at the spreaders 
and fell off to the leeward side.


We were in the starting stages of the Jolly Roger Shoreline race. The 
conditions changed from about 11-12 kts (true) to 14-15 kts when the 
chain plate failed.  Waves were about 3 feet.  We had been on a beam 
reach doing 7.0-7.2 kts and hardened up to closehauled to see if we were 
going to be able to point to the turning mark when it failed.  We had 
about twenty seconds between hearing the pop and having the chain plate 
fly out of the deck with the mast failed.  Luckily, all were in the 
cockpit at failure.  I was just starting out to crash drop sails from 
the first pop and seeing the slack leeward shroud.  The helmsman had 
just started turning into the wind.


After about an hour, we were able to get the main off and stowed and get 
the jib on deck with the mast lashed to the bow pulpit. Took the boat 
back in to Muskegon to Torresen Marine and left it in their haulout well 
until Monday when they can start assessing it.


It will come down to economics to see if the hull value will support a 
new mast and structural repairs necessary.


The starboard chain plate had leaked in the past and I had glassed in 
the bulkhead and added a backing plate when I bought her (22 years ago) 
but the wood in the area does not look good.


I will keep the list updated with how things pan out.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
White Lake, Michigan
(Now residing in Muskegon for the time being)
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