Jake,
Me too please.
Dave
CC 35-3 Saltaire
- Original Message -
From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker rbfrer...@yahoo.com
Sent: Friday, May 8, 2015 11:35:40 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 polars
Could you
I just replaced the BG Hercules System 190. I had the two cockpit
multifunction displays refurbished (new LEDs and internal batteries) at a cost
of $520 but then lost the vane on the C type masthead unit. Couldn't find a
replacement C style masthead unit but was told by Jake, the person at BG
Based on the advice from this group I left batteries on board over the winter
as well. Same results. 5+ year old batteries still charged and ready to go.
Dave J
Saltaire CC35 MkIII
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: dwight veinot via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To:
Does anyone on the list have a raw water cooled Yanmar 3GM hooked up to a water
heater?
I realize that the raw water cooled engine runs cooler than then one with a
heat exchanger but I can live with warm and not hot water. However, I was told
by a mechanic that this could harm the water pump
- they aren't designed for salt water. Your hot water tank
might not last too long.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
CC 35-III #11
On 2015-05-27 10:10 PM, Dave via CnC-List wrote:
Does anyone on the list have a raw water cooled Yanmar 3GM hooked up to a water
heater?
I realize that the raw
Ditto that.
- Original Message -
From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2015 9:00:55 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 35-III Headroom?
Yeah, that darn doorway keeps banging
David - congrats on the race and thanks for posting - very interesting.
Dave
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Ahmet - my comments below.
1). Rust - I had an extensive review and survey of a 35mki before buying my
33ii. The rusty washers could well have been original, (as on the 35). would
replace these with stainless, (make a plate if you can) large as will fit, and
give it a surface to bear on.
Hi terry,
Could not see a link to the pic, but send me one directly if you wish.
My 33ii has no such fitting downstream of the pressure water pump, and my
plumbing looks to be original.
It may be that a PO installed that (it sounds like a check valve) to keep the
pump from cycling as the
Hi terry,
Could not see a link to the pic, but send me one directly if you wish.
My 33ii has no such fitting downstream of the pressure water pump, and my
plumbing looks to be original.
It may be that a PO installed that (it sounds like a check valve) to keep the
pump from cycling as the
Thanks guys - this echoes my inclination (helm) but leaves me with some holes
by the companionway where the depth instrument currently resides. I actually
have a small Hoffman enclosure to install the p70 at the helm, but hesitated.
My additional thinking had Been to use an iPad or tablet
Hi all - had to remove some paint for repairs and realize that he bottom will
need at least a touch up.
Paint smells a Bit like burnt rubber when the grinder hits it, and it smears
rather than stripping off in dust or chips. Clearly a soft film, black in
Color.
No resistance to acetone at
Thanks guys, Paul nailed it, though I wasn't entirely clear. I am replacing
the battery switch (below which, in a prime kick-off location, is mounted a
single toggle breaker, protecting the 12vdc house panel.) I am replacing the
entire panel with a more complete solution.
In case you
Funny timing.
Check out bad elf GPS PRO, or Garmin GLO, Bluetooth GPS. These are wireless
GPS devices to which You can connect 5 Bluetooth devices concurrently, bring it
with you, etc.
I had been using my 'work' iPad Air (3G) and navionics, worked great, but I
purchased another iPad Air
Hello, I am upgrading the house battery arrangement in my 33ii and will replace
the selector switch and breaker with a blue sea panel, which includes a 100A
main, among other things.
Does anyone know the raring of the factory breaker? The markings on mine are
illegible.
Thanks! Dave.
Sent
Hello all. Working through the details of my winter electronics upgrade and am
trying to select a standalone nmea 2000 GPS receiver. (Like Garmin 19x,
raymarine rs130). I cannot find any comparisons or reviews, has anyone been
down this path? Thanks!
Dave.
Sent from my iPad
thanks gentlemen. Did some more digging -The garmin 19x caught my eye
first and have shortlisted it plus the simrad GS 25 and its identical Navico
siblings (b, lowrance). All these are n2k as will be the network, so no
multiplexing required. I note that the Garmin draws 40 ma vs an
Thanks guys. Just ordered a Garmin 19x for $200 from the GPSshopppe, (did not
list the sim rad) being delivered to my hotel in Atlanta. Will be running this
with , 2014 raymarine ev-1/ p70 wheel pilot, i70 mf inst., acti sense ngt-1
n2k-usb gateway. openCPN as a chartplotter, or some other
"Never again IV"
Sent from my iPhone
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Thanks for the input gentlemen. I would welcome any more insight and look
forward to Doug's 35iii photos, off-list as well.
I will add to the discussion the following excerpt from an email reply from
nick at Bristol marine, in response to my request for an estimate on re-bedding
the keel
I have two iPads, one with gps, the other I use with a garmin GLO external
Bluetooth GPS antenna. Both work fine, even below decks. The GLO needs to be
restarted on occasion, the other is reliable even when out of cell range. We
sail on Lake Ontario, so when you really need GPS, like
Hello all,
Regarding the 33ii collapsing mast step problem...
Have read about this problem but have not been able to find any photos or
specific discussion online. Is anyone aware of a site that documents this
repair? Thanks
Dave
Sent from my iPhone
33-2 - second season with one, was purchased in excellent original condition,
have had the whole thing apart and am upgrading most systems.
I agree with Jim's points below and would add as few:
Check the lead keel for hairline cracks and bulges at the lower end of the
keelboats. It seems
Very interesting battery banter. For me the best flooded U1 is probably the
way to go, I bet I can fit that with the existing batteries under the qb. .
450 cca, and the same charging profile as my grp 31 flooded house bank. (The
xantrex charger makes you select one one profile for all
I keep a manual hand drill on the boat- yard sale item, I use it fairly
often. Batteries never die.
Dave
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2015 20:24:11 -0600
From: "Dennis C."
To: CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat tools
Message-ID:
Oops - sorry frank, another too hasty reply from work...Agreed with other
poster, drill from both sides. As suggested, Good practice to score one side
first anyway to prevent splintering.
> On Dec 11, 2015, at 12:23 PM, Dave Syer wrote:
>
> Frank - How about knocking
In my 33ii
Had been thinking of using my rarely-used shower pan drain pump and connecting
it to a diverter valve which would select between the bilge and the shower.
Would plumb a hose and wire a float switch in the bilge, with a solid state
relay by the existing switch in the head, wired
ereading Wanderer, by Sterling Hayden. Great great book!
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
> On Dec 30, 2015, at 17:37, Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
>
> Just finished 'M
Just finished 'Moxie' by Phil weld - great book, impressive man.
In the same vein, about t re-read 'around the world alone' by Alain Colas.
Sent from my iPhone
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Pretty pleased with two blade folding gori on my 33-2.
st [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe at
Zialater via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2015 11:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe at Zialater
Subject: Stus-List Folding prop for 30-1 with A4
My 1975 30-1, Zia
Anybody know of a skilled but reasonable shop in the GTA ? Thanks.
Dave
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Glass strands (various lengths from milled fibres to chopped strands)- hard to
fair but strong - structural.
Fumed silica - cab-o-sil - this is a colloidal filler, it keeps the epoxy from
flowing. This is not the same thing as making it 'thicker' - glass will do
that, but without silica, the
Ahmet - I think I get what you are trying to do. A pre laminated and fitted
angle would work. Make a form, wider than you need and build up layers. Make
it way to big, then Trim and bevel to fit. (Angle grinder). Epoxy in place,
fill the void(pre drill) then laminate in place.
Btw, mat is
Ahmet - my approach to making flat pieces is to first laminate on a sheet of
glass. With polyester, I build-up glass/mat alternating and laminated to a high
glass content with a consolidator. (A kind of roller)
With epoxy you can use biaxial stitch-mat with fine cloth or peel ply on top,
then
You can remove a transducer with an angle grinder and zip disc, or better yet a
Fein type oscillating multi tool. The grinder is not for the faint of heart,
but it is Amazing how precise you can be with either tool.
Dave
Sent from my iPhone
___
Yup, bog, same stuff, and I think it's the more common slang. By dad and his
buddies called it that at the Ontario boatbuilders coop back in the 80s, cow
flap is how Bristol marine described it to me recently. Blobs attaching the
liner to the hull in my 33ii meet that description.
I
Stupid me, I had my head stuck in the automotive world...
thanks for the suggestions. Cool little lithium batteries, and yes, would be
very easy to fit. Need to check charge profile compatibility with with my
shore power charger, but for a dedicated start battery that's not essential.
Josh
Used 3/16 black acrylic, wet sanded with 400 grit to a matte finish. Looks
good. Brother p-touch to label panel, and wires also with special labels.
Labelled and routed all wires and secured with cable ties. Replaced my analog
voltmeter with victonix battery monitor. Fits existing hole
Agreed on ventilation. We had a venture 22 20 years ago that had minor
condensation issues. I added a single passive dome vent to the foredeck,
issue solved. It takes very little but constant air movement to make a real
improvement. Most production boats are very poor in this regard imo.
Ryan.
Your results look great. How many hours would you guess you put into the paint
job?
Dave J
Saltaire
CC35 MK3
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle
Sent: Thu, 26 May 2016
Your description has me 90% certain you have a bad ground from the wiring
harness to the engine. On my 2gm this was a large ring terminal attached to or
above the stArter iirc. Your multimeter may fool you as you are getting some
conductivity. Inspect, Clean/de oxidize that grounding point
Graham.
If you could post photos of your rudder rebuild I'd appreciate that. I'm
guessing it's similar to the 37 but would like to be sure.
Thanks,
Dave J
Saltaire
CC35 MK3
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: Graham Collins via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
At the boat and would like to avoid taking apart the panel to find out...
Anyone know the trip ratings of the stockvhf and instrument breakers? Tx!
Dave
Sent from my iPhone
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
Thanks Russ - Makes sense, and yes, once explained and I think for a moment,
it seems crazy that the clutch itself would be dependent on or even subject to
the prop's thrust load. So the question of 'why' remains one of life's
mysteries
Dave
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 09 Jun 2016 19:01:13
Josh,
What's the advantage of adding an auxiliary solenoid to the starting circuit?
Dave J
Saltaire
C 35Mk3
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List"
To: "C List"
Cc: "Josh Muckley"
Mine has shims in the mast step to adjust the height. As another posted, a
fully tensioned rig may make it Impossible to align the holes.
Subject: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2
When I was rigging my new to me 33-2 we couldn't locate one of the the mast
collar tangs so I had a
I purchased my boat, a 1984 35Mk3 three years ago. The first season the boat
would vibrate badly when I'd slow down under power. I'd put it in reverse,
throw it into forward (ouch) and things would be fine. The blades always opened
initially when I motored off the mooring but if I slowed down
ith the shaft spinning to slowly or
transmission not fully engaged. Sorry that I'm not offering any new solutions
here but just commiserating.
Tom Lynch
Bayfield WI
IndoIrish
On Thu, Jun 16, 2016 at 10:48 AM, Dave via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
wrote:
Alan,
My gear shift linkage is t
Alan,
My gear shift linkage is totally different with the cable coming in from
forward of the lever through a bracket. Its pretty obvious that I need only to
remove the lever rotate it 180 degrees and reattach it to make forward be
forward again.
I'm guessing that if the vibration was due
Have dealt with their Whitby shop many times. Good guys, very helpful. They
also repair and fabricate poly tanks.
Dave
Hi Ed,
Thanks for the warning. I think I will avoid the
Troana Boat Show... most of the others offer a discount. :)
Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
At 03:25
Here is the link
http://power.cummins.com/sites/default/files/literature/technicalpapers/PT-7015-NoiseSolutions-en.pdf
Subject: Re: Stus-List 10. Re: Acoustic insulation in Canada (Dreuge)
Message-ID:
<132847350.520834.1452380620089.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
Martec sells a geared prop, the Slipstream. When I asked how it compares with
the Flexfold the only thing they came up with was that it was all stainless
steel. The difference in price, $1929 versus $1205 for the Flexfold is pretty
substantial especially if the only differentiation is the
Tim,
What is the pitch on the Flexfold you replaced the Martec with? also was it a
16"?
Dave
C 35 MK3
Saltaire
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Tim Goodyear"
Sent:
-List Propeller Question for 35-3
Dave,
Which Flex prop are you getting? Do you have a Yanmar 3 GM30F engine?
Am looking at replacing my prop.
Thanks
Brian
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2
I'm with Tim. I had my Martek rebuilt last spring and was really disappointed
because even after the rebuild it wouldn't always open evenly. I'm replacing it
with a FlexFold. By the way reverse was OK you just need to get use to it.
Dave
C 35 MK 3
Saltaire
Bristol, RI
- Original
I know this topic's been beat to death and I have every suggestion on what
adhesive/tape to use and how to install the new windows. But, I don't have the
emails saying how to get the old windows out. A large exacto blade worked great
taking out the sealant but not so much on the underlying,
No such thing as an agile front row
Dave
C 35 Mk3
Saltaire
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: "Mike via CnC-List Hoyt"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Mike Hoyt"
Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2016 8:39:01 AM
Subject: Re:
If Steve elects to not take the Autohelm please contact me since I'd definitely
be interested.
Dave
C 35 MK3
Saltaire
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: "sthoma20--- via CnC-List"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: sthom...@bellnet.ca
Sent: Friday,
Hi Doug - went through this think myself, I had the std 33-2 setup of 2 group
31 (I think... Could be 34). Deep cycle flooded batteries (batt 1 and 2) and
an added xantrex smart charger.
Got some advice from a backup power designer
Will parallel the existing batteries and add a u1 start
Canada composites in Mississauga - ask for JP - you will get great advice, ship
within Canada. Busy place, they turn inventory fairly frequently.
Dave
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sam Salter
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2016 12:46 PM
To:
Can someone post a photo of their C with stainless grab rails?
Thanx,
Dave
C MK3
Saltaire
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: "Ken Heaton via CnC-List"
To: "cnc-list"
Cc: "Ken Heaton"
Sent: Friday, March
On Mar 1, 2016, at 7:45 AM, Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> In my window replacement project I've removed the old windows, most of the
> old adhesive, done a fair degree of damage to the gel coat and created one
> small chip in the surrounding fiberglass.
In my window replacement project I've removed the old windows, most of the old
adhesive, done a fair degree of damage to the gel coat and created one small
chip in the surrounding fiberglass. There is a layer of old adhesive (brown)
between the two windows (and a section where the adhesive came
Not in the two years I've owned and raced the boat. Perhaps if I had a blade.
Dave
Saltaire
C 35 MK3
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: "Doug Allardyce via CnC-List"
To: "CnC- List"
Cc: "Doug Allardyce"
he ones I
> find are all too long.
>
> Dave J
> "Saltaire"
> C 35 MK 3
>
> Bristol, RI
>
> From: "Dave via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "Dave" <syerd...@gmail.com>
> Sent: Monday,
Bingo, saddle clamp in locker. Couldn't believe it when I first saw it, seems
crude. Mine is fairly tight and always left me wondering if two (each less
tight) would be preferable. Can't help thinking there's got to be a better
way
Dave
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 17:31:12
For the record, my comments on lapping of the mating surface apply to the
kanzaki box that is typical with the Yanmar 20gm.
As to the question of adjustment - for sure verify the basics are within spec
first - oil, play in controls, etc. If however the adjustment is used to cheat
- like
Joel,
Congrats. Although we've never met face to face I've appreciated and put to use
much of the wisdom you've shared with the group and only hope it does indeed
continue.
Best Wishes,
Dave
Saltaire
C 35 MK3
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: "Joel Aronson via CnC-List"
The manual pump is original. Still available.
Dave 33-2 windstar
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2016 11:22:22 -0300
From:
To:
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue
Message-ID:
Content-Type:
I replied earlier in haste, but another clue here is the forward-reverse thing
as well as the low rpm banging only.
The shifter moves a bronze clutch back and forth, this has a conical surface on
each each end that mates with one mating female cone for forward, and the
other mating female
A life in the connector biz tells me to look at military or heavy industry.
Check out brad Harrison 2 or 3 pin mini series.
Example
http://www.bradharrisonsales.com/mc_2-6p_stoow_us.htm
If I had a deck stepped mast in salt water this is what I would use, and
probably rather than a chassis
Apologies - my post is not at all clear.
I am wondering where others cleverly stow the tiller and its tools.When I
got mine it was buried in the cockpit locker, with rusting wrenches Masking
taped to the arm.
I fastened the wrenches with small cable ties and tied the lot to the straps
Thanks - Josh, looks like the same stuff, or very similar. will pursue Eaton
hose distributors here.
Doug, it is indeed similar to heater hose, except it has an additional outer
jacket extruded over it. The black inner part is identical to automotive
heater hose, dimensionally, and it
Just did this for N2k cables in std small guard. I drilled with regular has
bits but centre punched and piloted first (1/8") - slow speed did not work
well. Then drilled final hole size (two adjacent for oval) and cleaned up with
a conical stone on a dremel.
Dave
Windstar 1985 33-2
>
>
>
Thanks Paul, Edd.
My original refrigerAtion unit (nova cool?) is still working so I had not
planned to tackle that quite yet. Will research Engels and Adler Barbour. Is
the upgrade worthwhile or is this really something to consider once replacement
is necessary?
The all in one approach
Thanks For the thorough reply Tim, valuable and extensive detail there, and
some food for thought. I do understand the operation of the acr and the
goals/theory of overcurrent protection, as well as voltage drop/cable ampacity
more than my already-too-long post might infer.
Thanks for the
Lol... Agreed Steve but in this case i tend to think of it as the lawyer state
rather than nanny state. (WAs so boggled by this sort of thing at one point
that I put a label on my 6" bench vise that says 'caution - do not eat'. ).
I don't think fusing the main house bank cable is such a
...a really nice boat that should not need any major projects for a while."
I must admit that made me smile also.
FYI - according to Bristol marine here in Toronto, The 41, 33-2, and 35-3 are
models susceptible to the sinking mast step syndrome. Caveat emptor! (Having
repaired early onset
Hi John. My sheaves had worn bushings, and these were easily replaced with
stock bushings from Brafasco (less than $20). In the 33-2 you unbolt the cap
on the masthead, and lift out the axle with the topping lift and main halyard
sheaves. I suppose it could be done with the mast up, but I
Joe - not so hard to make your own. You could layout on any flat surface using
waxed paper as a release liner. See blog link below
Dave
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2015/12/making-fibreglass-parts.html?m=1
>
>> On Aug 9, 2016, at 2:27 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
>>
Agreed with Fred, first choice machine screws, second larger, and third and
fourth - bodywork clips or heavily glass-filled epoxy.
I did a bunch of the latter this season and found that drilling the (new) holes
then 'tapping' with a modified wood screw worked well.By modified I mean
Check also victron BMV 700. I seem to recall reading that the xantrex unit is
a buy for resale victron.It was the perfect fit for what I wanted and also
in the 2" hole that once housed my analog voltmeter.
Photos here:
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/p/blog-page.html?m=1
Dave. (Launch
I used citrus cleaner - works great.
Dave
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 25, 2017, at 11:37 AM, Jake Brodersen wrote:
>
> Bev,
>
> Simple Green and Purple Power are my two favorite cleaners. Joel has had
> some good success with citrus based cleaners too. Simple Green
Congrats Matthew! It appears you don't do laundry at home. What's your
secret? ;-)
Dave
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 25, 2017, at 5:50 PM, Matthew L. Wolford wrote:
>
> I discovered something by accident a few years ago. I decided to clean the
> cruddy, old freshwater
Considering the addition of a wind instrument before launch, and am looking for
any thoughts from those who've done it.
I have a raymarine ev100 wheelpilot, i70 display, iPad as chartplotter. Am
leaning toward an ultrasonic, n2k sensor.
Thoughts/wisdom/guidance?
Thanks!dave. 33-2
Same. Citrus degreaser works too.
For small parts I have two large tin cans, one that is a close fit inside the
other. The bottom of the inner can is drilled full of 1/8" holes. Kinda like
a pasta pot. I dump solvent in and the small parts let them soak, sloosh them
around (they knock
John,
What was the Bomar model number?
Dave J
"Saltaire"
C 35 MK 3
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: "John Rand via CnC-List"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "John Rand"
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2017 9:50:15 AM
Subject:
Visited the boat today and saw that the fittings were made in NZ by RC Marine,
once, along with Ronstan, a division of the long-gone Fortuna (apparently not)
corporation. These deck fills look an awful lot like those currently offered
by Forespar, and I have an inquiry in with them. Maybe
Alan,
Why did you change to the Harken traveler?
Dave J
Saltaire
C 33 Mk3
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: "ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List"
To: "C"
Cc: "ALAN BERGEN"
Sent: Friday, September 2, 2016
If it were me, I would remove the weaker, top up with distilled water,charge
(use a car charger) have it load tested by the trustworthy place you will
ultimately buy from, and decide. Repeat for #2.
If the battery was very low on water for any length of time and was repeatedly
charged and
Imo- I think the best reason not to use epoxy on the companionway steps is that
it is probably not really necessary, especially on teak.Second best reason
is cost, third is repairability vs varnish.
Yer basic general purpose epoxy is too thick in my opinion for easy varnishing,
(btdt
I have the same unit. Control head at helm.
n2k 5 port, GPS antenna, and autopilot pieces at foot of quarter berth.
Happy with that.
Dave. 33-2
From: Adam Hayden
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Subject: Stus-List EV 100 autopilot
Message-ID:
Michael,
Can you please provide some detail as to how you were able to "rod out" your
raw water passages?
Thank you,
Dave J
Saltaire
C 33 MK3
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: "Michael Brannon via CnC-List"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Michael
Yep, I had that happen once, pre-ram mount. The Bimini seems to shade it well
enough, and I generally leave the iPad below unless needed for a harbour
entrance or channel. (Not terribly demanding pilotage around here - north
shore of Lake Ontario). I may add a mounting ball near the
Graham/all - to be clear, to me the issue is not so much being able to update
one Manufacturer's firmware from another's device, it's about not being able to
update it at all, without a MFD (hence the 'accessories to MFD subject line').
Raymarine could easily have elected to permit updates by
For sure Joe, there will be much more variance boat to boat, and anyway it's
just one man's opinion. (Well, I suppose two, cuz I agreed). I. I won't
speak for the gentleman, but I remember the context, and the inference was not
that earlier boats somehow lacked 'quality' relative to later,
Second that, load test the battery first for sure, check the cables.
I had two high resistance grounds that caused issues. One, a stud on the back
of a gauge, the other, the main engine harness ground, a bolt below the
starter. Disassemble, clean, grease.No problems since.
The battery
Antoine - I have resisted joining this thread, but I have read the account of
your ambitious and impressive trip.
Would be very interesting in your view of what 'very well prepared' means in
this context.
The tadoussac - la pocatiere area is certainly impressive for its cold and
wind.
Dave
For the record - those are not photos of windstar! The one that is really bad
was a 33-2 and it piqued my curiosity so I went for a walk with my camera.
I did have the waterlogged keel stub issue, which I fixed, and I then bedded
and epoxy/glassed over the keel/hull joint, faired with
Thanks all for the responses - the 33-2 has the stock steaming/foredeck combo,
plus, on mine the vestigial wiring for past spreader lights. I have used the
foredeck light once. Each has its own breaker, argument enough for moving to
led and replacing at least one breaker with a compact
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