Re: Stus-List Opinions on hull/keel crack expansion

[Dave via CnC-List]

Does the 29-2 have a putty-filled forward Section of keel stub?  If so, be wary 
of a volume of water therein

In windstar (33-2) I did a major keel box repair then lifted the hull off the 
keel a few extra mm, cleaned the gap, (hacksaw blade, fein mutimaster). then 
filled as much of the gap as I could, I think it was 4200.  I then dropped the 
boat back down, torqued the bolts and let the compound kick.  There was lots of 
squeeze out, I wiped it fair.
Then I dished the joint with an angle grinder, about 3-4" either side of the 
joint, covered it with glass cloth laid on its bias, in slightly thickened 
epoxy, then faired it with more epoxy.  (I like epoxy...).  Then, interprotect 
and anti fouling paint.  
One season and a frozen Toronto winter on the hard later, no cracks no leaks.  
The joint is invisible.If I need to repair, I can buzz it off with a 
grinder any time.  

Dave 



Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 10, 2017, at 1:35 PM, Eugene Fodor  wrote:
> 
> I have a crack at my hull/keel joint and am debating filling it with 4200. It 
> is no significant and as I understand it this is pretty normal for boats with 
> an external keel. My concern is that since my boats up north in Wisconsin and 
> spends a good amount of time frozen, I'm wondering if filling it might 
> actually cause expansion if any water gets down the keel bolt and through the 
> cracks. One of my keel bolts has had this problem which I mitigated through 
> drilling a hole on each side of the bulge, epoxy fill and some vigorous 
> hammering. Thoughts?
> 
> Gene Fodor
> "Hawk"
> C 29-2 84-85

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Re: Stus-List Jacklines/Harnesses/Tethers

[Dave via CnC-List]

Agreed.  Hence "Hopefully one would remember it in a panic."   I had actually 
forgotten the knife in my spinlock was there, just re-noticed it last season.  
A "real" knife, bulkier and  consistently used is not so easily forgotten.  
Both lifejackets have whistles also.
One of the things I grapple with is instruction for casual crew/guests - what 
to do if I go overboard?


Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 30, 2017, at 9:03 AM, Bill Bina - gmail <billbinal...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Not aimed at anyone in particular: All plans and equipment are completely 
> worthless without regular testing and practice. What you think is being 
> prepared may be a fantasy that will lead to a well-planned failure. You need 
> to find out by at least trying and using everything while conditions are 
> mild, and you are not injured. You may shock yourself. Can you reach into 
> that pocket with whichever hand was not crushed? Can you really find someone 
> that has fallen overboard? Can you get back on the boat while it is moving? 
> Don't kid yourself. Find out! The real statistics for surviving a fall 
> overboard are very grim. Anecdotes are not data.
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
>> On 3/30/2017 8:44 AM, Dave via CnC-List wrote:
>> My spinlock deck vest has a tethered cutter in a dedicated pocket as 
>> standard equipment.  Hopefully one would remember it in a panic.
>> 
>> My salus coastal life jacket has big pockets that contain a tethered folding 
>> knife, and a small flashlight.  
>> 
>> Both are quite well designed imo.
>> 
>> Dave.
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. 
> www.avg.com
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Jacklines/Harnesses/Tethers

[Dave via CnC-List]

My spinlock deck vest has a tethered cutter in a dedicated pocket as standard 
equipment.  Hopefully one would remember it in a panic.

My salus coastal life jacket has big pockets that contain a tethered folding 
knife, and a small flashlight.  

Both are quite well designed imo.

Dave.



Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 30, 2017, at 8:33 AM, David Knecht  wrote:
> 
> If I can add to Graham question- one of the things I am unhappy about with my 
> auto-inflating life jacket is the lack of pockets.  I always wear it when 
> single handing, but I don’t always remember to grab a knife to keep in my 
> pocket.  I wish I had a way to keep the knife with the jacket.  Are there 
> jackets with pockets that would hold a knife?  Other solutions people use?  
> Thanks- Dave
> 
>> On Mar 30, 2017, at 7:06 AM, Graham Young via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Then there is the issue of getting yourself back on the boat if you manage 
>> to survive a dragging and decide not to cut yourself free. I was recently 
>> reading Andrew Evans book on single-handed sailing.  He was talking about 
>> someone who fell overboard and managed to survive and after the fact talked 
>> about the challenge that the lifelines posed to getting back aboard.  
>> Whatever else the pros and cons of Dyneema lifelines are, he was talking 
>> about the potential benefit of being able to cut the lifeline in an 
>> emergency, particularly for a single-hander who has no one else to help 
>> him/her back aboard.
>> 
>> Following up on Kevin's recommendation to check out Navigation Landfall, 
>> they have customizable Dyneema jacklines for about $2 per foot.  Anyone have 
>> any experience with this type of jackline?  The description touted Dyneema's 
>> strength and low stretch as an advantage.
>> 
>> Also, on the topic of cutting yourself away, what do others choose to use 
>> for a rescue knife?  I'm particularly interested in others thoughts about a 
>> folding versus sheathed knife.  It seems to me that a securely sheathed 
>> knife would be an advantage as you may not have 2 hand free to unfold your 
>> knife in an emergency.  But Gill has a rescue knife that is folding.
>>  
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Paint

[Dave via CnC-List]

Others will surely disagree, but I Am not convinced that expensive marine stuff 
is needed for this application, and may actually be a disadvantage from a 
maintenance point of view.  I bought some valspar premium enamel, gloss white, 
#565000 and it's matching primer, from Home Depot or Canadian tire or similar, 
and used that to paint the inside of a dinghy.   it has stood up well, despite 
water, UV, etc.   Have also used to paint inside lockers etc where I did 
glassworks.   Clean and bright and seems to be tough.   

Paint tech has come a long way

Dave.   
33-2



Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 29, 2017, at 4:05 PM, bruce  wrote:
> 
> Looking for a good quality paint to paint the inside of the sail lockers, and 
> other such areas.  Bright and Clean.  Ideas please.
>  
>  
> Bruce
> C 27 Mk III
> Asterie
> Montreal, Quebec
>  
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Re: Stus-List C 35 MK III full set of North racing sails

[Dave via CnC-List]

Bob, 

I'd be interested in the Kevlar X20 main. What is the weight, age and 
condition? 

Dave J 
Saltaire 
C 35 MKlll 
Bristol, 
RI 


- Original Message -

From: "rshibe via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "rshibe"  
Sent: Tuesday, March 7, 2017 12:27:41 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 35 MK III full set of North racing sails 

Hey Bob, 
Are you selling Invictus, getting different boat??? 
Ray 

Sent from my iPad 

On Mar 7, 2017, at 11:16, Bob Curtiss via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 






Need to sell! NorLam 155% Genoa, Kevlar Blade w/battens, 

Kevlar main X20 grey, full spinnaker. $3,000, or best offer. 





_ 



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Re: Stus-List Input on inflatable dinghy purchase

[Dave via CnC-List]

Bob,
I have a 2.5 Lehr which is just oK. If I were to buy a new dingy motor I'd look 
at the Honda 2.3 HPW 4 stroke. 30 pounds, internal gas tank, quiet and less 
than $1K. 
Dave
- Original Message -
From: Bob McLaughlin via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bob McLaughlin 
Sent: Wed, 01 Mar 2017 22:26:28 - (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Input on inflatable dinghy purchase

Thanks Danny.  I've not really looked at motors yet but have seen the
information on the Lehr propane models and was intrigued by their light
weight, no need for gas/oil etc.  Can you share any more details on your
experience with it?  How long have you had it?  Can you pull off the
propane tank when its half empty and does that then allow you to stow it in
a locker below or does it still have propane in the engine somewhere,
lurking to escape into your bilge?

Bob

On Wed, Mar 1, 2017 at 3:16 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Some years ago, I purchased a used. west marine, zodiac roll up at a yard
> sale and had an old 2hp kicker on it.  I used in the area you are moving
> to.  More specifically, on the wesport river where there was nearly always
> a 3 to 4 knot current (except slack tide).  It did the job for us.  Not
> nearly as effortlessly as a RIB but, it worked.  When I sold that boat the
> buyer offered to buy the roll up and I sold it.  So, As I was searching for
> the new boat I went into Ocean state job lot, A local chain, liquidation
> type place, where I had noticed they had sold some off brand PVC inflatable
> boats.  One 8'6 rollup and a 9'6 inflatable V hull, plywood floor.  I read
> and researched and researched and could find very little negative and a few
> positive write ups.  I opted for the latter and thought I should return
> it...  Well a waited too long for the return widow and kept it.
>
> After buying the new boat and launching, I finally unpacked, assembled and
> inflated the inflatable boat.  I couldn't be happier.  The boat held air
> all season and seemed comparable to any other boat on the dinghy dock.  I
> did end up buying a 2.5hp Lehr Propane powered OB for the back of it.  I
> love the propane option.  I use the same bottle for the grill and they can
> be changed out in less than a minute.  You motor till it dies, unscrew the
> expended bottle and screw in the new.  1 or 2 pulls and your off again.  It
> only weighs 35 lbs so putting it on the rail is pretty easy.
> The roll up was hard to control through the water due the the flat, soft
> bottom, the inflatable keel handles much better.  2.5 HP is enough for us
> for now and the boat can take up to 8hp I think.
>
> The boat is called a Bestway Caspian Hydoforce Pro 110 and I paid $450 for
> it.  The smaller one was $369 i believe.  I'm sure I'll get at least a few
> more years out of it.  It was tied to the dingy dock most of the summer and
> it still looks brand new.  The boat only weighs about 65lbs.  So, I can
> pull up on deck without too much effort and a spare halyard makes that even
> easier!
>
> I'd love a RIB with a 10hp but, I don't have davits and the engine is
> probably 100lbs.  So, the boat, davits an engine hoist...  your looking at
> 7 - 10K all in.  I spent 450 for the boat and 950 for the engine on sale at
> west marine.  I also had a bunch of WM gift cards from family members that
> saved me another 300 so my out of pocket was like under $1100 for the
> tender and motor!
>
> Oh, and the boat came with big tubes, a pump, oars, and the nice fill
> caps.  Again, I'm quite happy with the purchase.  I'm willing to bet the
> boat was made in the same factory as some of the big name boats.
>
> Danny
>
>
> On 3/1/2017 3:24 PM, Bob McLaughlin via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Relocating our C 110 from a Midwest lake where I had no need for a
> tender to now sailing on Narragansett Bay, LI Sound, Buzzard's Bay,
> Vineyard and Nantucket Sounds, etc, I'm in need of a basic inflatable to
> serve as a tender in harbors without a launch service.  I've used them many
> times on charters but never really paid much attention to detail.
>
> I'm looking for something relatively compact for 2-4 people that is easy
> to set up and collapse and stow, so I think that's best a roll-up.  Early
> in my thinking, I'm eyeing something like the 8'6" Achillies LSI-260: 4
> person capacity/820lbs, Hypalon, overall weight 64 lbs, inflatable floor,
> with perhaps a ~4-5HP outboard. (Or maybe the 9'6" or 10'2" LSI versions of
> the same design..) I don't think I need a boat to plane, just basic
> transportation.  No davits, it will either be towed or stowed.
>
> I welcome input from those of you with inflatable experience to share your
> thoughts on brands, material, features, design, size, etc.  What factors
> should I be considering as I make my selection?
>
> Regards,
> Bob McLaughlin
> C 110 "Blue Devil"
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> 

Stus-List Wind sensor for n2k

[Dave via CnC-List]

Considering the addition of a wind instrument before launch, and am looking for 
any thoughts from those who've done it. 
 I have a raymarine ev100 wheelpilot, i70 display, iPad as chartplotter.  Am 
leaning toward an ultrasonic, n2k sensor.   
Thoughts/wisdom/guidance? 
Thanks!dave.  33-2



Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Battery test

[Dave via CnC-List]

Check also victron BMV 700.  I seem to recall reading that the xantrex unit is 
a buy for resale victron.It was the perfect fit for what I wanted and also 
in the 2" hole that once housed my analog voltmeter.  
Photos here:

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/p/blog-page.html?m=1

Dave.  (Launch booked April 10!  Whitby, on.)

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 6, 2017, at 6:50 PM, Rick Brass  wrote:
> 
> After spending some time on a friend's cruising boat that had a Xantrex
> LinkPro battery monitor, I bought a LinkLite for Imzadi.
> 
> Several on EBay for around $200 - and I see the price has gone up a lot
> since I bought mine.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Xantrex-Linklite-Battery-Monitor-/311605137761?hash=
> item488d1d1161:g:jmgAAOSwhRxXKO5R=mtr
> 
> The device monitors voltage for two banks, and shows instantaneous current
> in or out for the main bank, total AH used since the last charge for the
> main bank, and % or total AH remaining. It adjusts for the total AH
> available when you do a periodic "synchronize" after a full charge. It
> doesn't show you the total AH capacity for the main bank, but knowing the AH
> used and the & of total remaining you can do some arithmetic to calculate
> the total AH available.
> 
> As a matter of fact, I happen to have done that when I was on the boat on
> Sunday. The house bank was at 93.2% of capacity, and based on the AH used I
> figured my house bank is down to a bit over 400AH from the 460 it was when
> the batteries were installed in 2010.
> 
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> Mitchell's via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, February 06, 2017 2:24 PM
> To: CNC List 
> Cc: Mitchell's 
> Subject: Stus-List Battery test
> 
> Here is one for you electrical guys, my batteries are over 5 years old. I
> have all LED lights, a 240 watt solar panel and modern refrigeration. The
> batteries are working fine but there is no way they are still performing as
> new. I would like to monitor their amp hour capacity as they age. Is there a
> simple way to do it or do I need to take them into a battery shop? 
> 90 days to launch! 
> Len Mitchell
> 1989 37+
> Crazy Legs
> Midland On. 
> 
> 
> Sent from my mobile device. 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.

[Dave via CnC-List]

Congrats Matthew!   It appears you don't do laundry at home.  What's your 
secret?  ;-)

Dave

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 25, 2017, at 5:50 PM, Matthew L. Wolford  wrote:
> 
> I discovered something by accident a few years ago.  I decided to clean the 
> cruddy, old freshwater tank on my 34 by putting in some water and a gallon of 
> Clorox and letting it slosh around.  I discovered a day or two later that the 
> tank had leaked and nearly all the contents had drained into the bilge (which 
> was more or less filled).  When I removed the highly chlorinated water from 
> the bilge, it was remarkably clean.
>  
> From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 10:40 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Joel Aronson
> Subject: Re: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.
>  
> When I pulled the transmission in my Hylas, it took a gasket scraper to clean 
> the bilge.  Not sure a wash would have done anything to remove the crud, and 
> the bilge pump probably would have clogged.
>  
> I would worry about water getting into the air intake and electrical 
> connections that are in the bilge.  I'll take the crud over creating more 
> work.  Just my personal preference.
> Joel
>  
>> On Wed, Jan 25, 2017 at 10:26 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I have been thinking of using a small power washer to clean my engine and 
>> bilge prior to re-painting my Beta 28. Of course I need to seal the 
>> alternator and the plug that connects the engine electrics to the starting 
>> panel before
>> I begin blasting away with the washer.
>>  
>> I could never reach some parts of the engine with a brush.
>>  
>> Before I begin and destroy something, does this seem like a reasonable way 
>> to clean the engine?
>>  
>> Charlie Nelson
>> C 36 XL/kcb
>> Water Phantom
>> New Bern, NC
>>  
>> cenel...@aol.com
>>  
>>  
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
>> To: cnc-list 
>> Cc: Jake Brodersen ; 'Bev Parslow' 
>> 
>> Sent: Wed, Jan 25, 2017 5:38 am
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.
>> 
>> Bev,
>>  
>> Simple Green and Purple Power are my two favorite cleaners.  Joel has had 
>> some good success with citrus based cleaners too.  Simple Green and citrus 
>> are probably two of the most earth-friendly cleaners, but always dispose of 
>> your cleaning solutions responsibly.
>>  
>> Jake
>>  
>> Jake Brodersen
>> C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
>> Hampton VA
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bev 
>> Parslow via CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 21:25
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Bev Parslow 
>> Subject: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.
>>  
>> With a few drips of oil and some water from the stuffing box the engine 
>> compartment is quite messy. I really would like to have it clean as well as 
>> the bilge. Are there any suggestions?
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> 
>  
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.

[Dave via CnC-List]

I used citrus cleaner - works great.

Dave

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 25, 2017, at 11:37 AM, Jake Brodersen  wrote:
> 
> Bev,
>  
> Simple Green and Purple Power are my two favorite cleaners.  Joel has had 
> some good success with citrus based cleaners too.  Simple Green and citrus 
> are probably two of the most earth-friendly cleaners, but always dispose of 
> your cleaning solutions responsibly.
>  
> Jake
>  
> Jake Brodersen
> C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
> Hampton VA
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bev 
> Parslow via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 21:25
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bev Parslow 
> Subject: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.
>  
> With a few drips of oil and some water from the stuffing box the engine 
> compartment is quite messy. I really would like to have it clean as well as 
> the bilge. Are there any suggestions?
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Re: Stus-List Bow Hatch Replacement

[Dave via CnC-List]

John, 

What was the Bomar model number? 

Dave J 
"Saltaire" 
C 35 MK 3 
Bristol, RI 

- Original Message -

From: "John Rand via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "John Rand"  
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2017 9:50:15 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow Hatch Replacement 

On my C 35 MkII I got a really good deal on a Bomar hatch. It was a little 
larger than the old one, so I just enlarged the hole, patched with fiberglass 
and set the new one with 3M 4000. It fits great, no leaks. 

John 

On Tue, Jan 17, 2017 at 4:01 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 



Brandon: 

My previous boat, an Ericson 30, had wood framed hatches. I replaced them with 
Bomar hatches, and removed some of the fiberglass to which the old hatches were 
mounted. 

Alan Bergen 
35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 

I'm looking to replace my forward hatch on my C 35 Mk1. Dimensions are 
21.625" X 25.375" OD, 20.75" X 24.5 ID. Any suggestions on what to replace it 
with? I can't seem to find anything to fit, so should I consider removing the 
"lip" the old hatch fit over? Or should i epoxy in an additional spacer to get 
the frame down to a standard size, say maybe the Bowmar 20 3/16" X 30 3/16" or 
similar? Or should I just build a new hatch out of fiberglass and wood frame 
like the original that's on the boat? I'd prefer something that's going to be 
water tight, obviously. and it would be nice to have some light coming through. 

Thanks in advance for any tips and recommendations. 

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___ 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
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Re: Stus-List Solvent for cleaning winches indoors?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Same.  Citrus degreaser works too.

For small parts I have two large tin cans, one that is a close fit inside the 
other.   The bottom of the inner can is drilled full of 1/8" holes.  Kinda like 
a pasta pot.   I dump solvent in and the small parts let them soak, sloosh them 
around (they knock the crud off each other) and eventually lift the inner can 
out and let it drain.  Works with stronger solvents or strippers to remove 
paint, bedding compound, etc.
For bigger stuff I place in a plastic tub and spritz with 
varsol/thinner/mineral spirits or the citrus stuff and work progressively with 
a toothbrush.  If it's a real mess I tilt the tub dump in some solvent and 
scrub with toothbrush.  
Give the solvent time to work so you don't have to.  Keep wetting the area. 
Sometimes I blast with aerosol brake cleaner, depending. 

Dave.



Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 18, 2017, at 9:52 AM, John Rand  wrote:
> 
> I just used mineral spirits and a tooth brush.
> 
> John
> 
>> On Tue, Jan 17, 2017 at 2:54 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I removed two of my mast mounted winches as they are overdue for service 
>> (about 25 years overdue).  That was a job in itself, as the bolts had fused 
>> to the aluminum mounting plates.  A combination of PB Blaster, vinegar and 
>> acetone, along with a hammer and screwdrivers got them off.
>> 
>> The grease is a gummy mess.  Any recommendations on a non-flammable solvent 
>> I can soak them in?  I'm working in the garage, so diesel and kerosene are 
>> out.
>> 
>> Joel
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
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Stus-List Fwd: Navtec 10 Series 7

[Dave via CnC-List]

John, have taken the liberty of forwarding this to the Cnc list.

> Subject: Re: Navtec 10 Series 7
> 
> John,
> 
> When you say failed, I assume that you mean the seals now don't.
> If so, Plenty of industrial hydraulics places in the GTA - would expect they 
> could fix?  
> 
> FYI - windstar (33-2) has no hydraulic adjuster, and if I understand 
> correctly the baby stay is intended used to control mast bend, similar to 
> backstab adjuster.  Perhaps the adjuster was an 'owner-upgrade'?  Did the PO 
> happen to include the original part?  (Look for a 1/2" stainless rod around 
> 12" and toggles etc...)
> 
> Good luck, dave.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Dec 30, 2016, at 9:35 AM, John McKay  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> The Navtec backstay adjuster failed on Enterprise this summer.
>> 
>> I know South Shore can repair it but it is a fairly expensive repair and 
>> searching on the net, most say a repair does not last that long.
>> 
>> Has anyone replaced their adjuster?
>> 
>> With what?
>> 
>> Approximate cost?
>> 
>> Or if repaired, where?
>> 
>> Guys around my yacht club says it is an easy fix, but they are mechanically 
>> inclined!
>> 
>> Thanks and Happy New Years
>> 
>> John on Enterprise
>> Komoka
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List $750 at Fisheries Supply - what to buy?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Agreed on this, if I had it to do again I would not buy the ev 100.  

Dave

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 20, 2016, at 9:32 AM, David Knecht  wrote:
> 
> I agree on autopilot as an absolute necessity (I sail and race single handed 
> frequently).  I put an EV-100 wheel pilot on my “new” boat. My previous boat 
> (C 34) came with an underdeck hydraulic (ST4000?). If I had it to do again, 
> I would spend the extra money for the hydraulic.  Having to engage and 
> disengage the wheel pilot each time you want to use it may seem like a minor 
> inconvenience, but when you need it in a hurry (crash tack) it is a major 
> PITA, especially since the lever is not in a convenient position relative to 
> the spokes of the wheel.  This is especially true when trying to disengage.  
> The wheel pilot is turning the wheel while you are trying to reach through 
> the spokes to disengage it and those sometimes come into conflict.  With the 
> hydraulic, you just push the button to engage/disengage.  Dave
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>> On Dec 20, 2016, at 8:49 AM, David via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Autopilot is my best friend.   
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>> 
>> 
>>  Original message 
>> From: Andrew Means via CnC-List  
>> Date: 12/19/16 6:08 PM (GMT-05:00) 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Cc: Andrew Means  
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List $750 at Fisheries Supply - what to buy? 
>> 
>> I feel like I see a reasonable amount of solar panels on the cruising boats 
>> at Shilshole but certainly less than you would in lower latitudes. The 
>> Safari mainly does day sailing with some moderate-length cruising in the San 
>> Juans, Gulf Islands and off the Vancouver coast. Long 10 hour days of 
>> motoring in non-existent Puget Sound wind makes me yearn for an autopilot...
>> 
>> -- 
>> Andrew Means
>> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
>> Seattle, WA
>> 
>>> On December 19, 2016 at 2:28:01 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>>> (cnc-list@cnc-list.com) wrote:
>>> 
>>> I'd be buying solar panels and associated controller/regulators.  But 
>>> perhaps in Seattle solar panels are more wishful thinking than practical..
>>> Chuck Gilchrest 
>>> S/V Half Magic
>>> 1983 Landfall 35
>>> Padanaram, MA
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
 On Dec 19, 2016, at 4:27 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
 Hey all - 
 
 I have recently found myself with $750 worth of gift cards to spend at 
 Fisheries Supply. I’m debating about what to buy and thought you guys 
 might be able to help me.
 
 Big-ticket items I’d like for my 1977 C 34:
 
 Some kind of autopilot system - It looks like from the website Fisheries 
 autopilot systems are not really aimed at sailboats, but I wonder if 
 they’d be able to order something. Defender’s got the Raymarine Evolution 
 EV-100 Wheel Autopilot Pack at $1249, which is obviously a chunk more than 
 I’ve got but it could be an option. I am thinking however that I’d 
 probably prefer to buy a simpler autopilot (something that basically just 
 holds a course) second hand from somebody who is looking to upgrade and 
 save a lot of money that way. Anybody have experience with the Raymarine 
 unit or used units I should be on the lookout for?
 
 Self-Tailing Winches for the cabin top - right now we’ve got two 
 mismatched non-self-tailing winches on our cabin top and it’d be pretty 
 nice to have the matched and self tailing winches there. Two of these 
 would run past my budget but it would be worth it. They’re single speed 
 though, so operations like reefing might be challenging. I could just get 
 one dual-speed self-tailing winch this season and look to upgrade the 
 second next season... Again, I’m not opposed to looking out for used 
 self-tailing winches at the next swap meet.
 
 Other things the boat could use:
 
 + New Spinnaker Halyard (definitely needed for next season)
 + New topping lift, foreguy lines (currently old but not bad)
 + More automatic PFDs (we’ve got plenty of life vests but if we have auto 
 PFDs we’ll have better luck getting people to wear them)
 
 What do you guys think? If you had $750 to spend on boat gear what would 
 you spend it on?
 
 Andrew
 
 
 -- 
 Andrew Means
 S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
 Seattle, WA
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
 wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our 

Re: Stus-List $750 at Fisheries Supply - what to buy?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Get line clutches instead of a self tailer on the cabin top.  Tailing the line 
is no issue if it passes first through a clutch.  This is how the next gen of 
your boat (33ii) is set up.

Dave 


Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 19, 2016, at 4:51 PM, Andrew Means  wrote:
> 
> Unfortunately all my $750 is in Fisheries Supply gift cards, so I’m kinda 
> stuck with getting stuff from them...
> 
> -- 
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
> Seattle, WA
> 
>> On December 19, 2016 at 1:49:32 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
>> (cnc-list@cnc-list.com) wrote:
>> 
>> Since you're not too far from Portland, look at what Columbia Marine 
>> Exchange has to offer:
>> 
>> http://www.columbiamarineexchange.com/sailboat_hardwware.htm
>> 
>> Kim also can get you new items, usually matching or beating Defender, and 
>> there's no income tax in Oregon.
>> 
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>> 
>>> On Mon, Dec 19, 2016 at 1:27 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Hey all - 
>>> 
>>> I have recently found myself with $750 worth of gift cards to spend at 
>>> Fisheries Supply. I’m debating about what to buy and thought you guys might 
>>> be able to help me.
>>> 
>>> Big-ticket items I’d like for my 1977 C 34:
>>> 
>>> Some kind of autopilot system - It looks like from the website Fisheries 
>>> autopilot systems are not really aimed at sailboats, but I wonder if they’d 
>>> be able to order something. Defender’s got the Raymarine Evolution EV-100 
>>> Wheel Autopilot Pack at $1249, which is obviously a chunk more than I’ve 
>>> got but it could be an option. I am thinking however that I’d probably 
>>> prefer to buy a simpler autopilot (something that basically just holds a 
>>> course) second hand from somebody who is looking to upgrade and save a lot 
>>> of money that way. Anybody have experience with the Raymarine unit or used 
>>> units I should be on the lookout for?
>>> 
>>> Self-Tailing Winches for the cabin top - right now we’ve got two mismatched 
>>> non-self-tailing winches on our cabin top and it’d be pretty nice to have 
>>> the matched and self tailing winches there. Two of these would run past my 
>>> budget but it would be worth it. They’re single speed though, so operations 
>>> like reefing might be challenging. I could just get one dual-speed 
>>> self-tailing winch this season and look to upgrade the second next 
>>> season... Again, I’m not opposed to looking out for used self-tailing 
>>> winches at the next swap meet.
>>> 
>>> Other things the boat could use:
>>> 
>>> + New Spinnaker Halyard (definitely needed for next season)
>>> + New topping lift, foreguy lines (currently old but not bad)
>>> + More automatic PFDs (we’ve got plenty of life vests but if we have auto 
>>> PFDs we’ll have better luck getting people to wear them)
>>> 
>>> What do you guys think? If you had $750 to spend on boat gear what would 
>>> you spend it on?
>>> 
>>> Andrew
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> Andrew Means
>>> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
>>> Seattle, WA
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=-B3QzKXPkPaYmuFy9f1aG0OFIzltvXaHqY-F3cmaK3A=6kEAs1he03QiFISf3_XcK7jZthD184f4W0-jKvXr8F4=
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>> ___ 
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! 
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Re: Stus-List Spin Halyard Parking Cleat

[Dave via CnC-List]

For my spin, I'm going to try this with a cam cleat mounted on the turning 
block at the base of the mast.   Hauling from the cockpit should pop it out of 
the cleat.  Haven't quite got the singlehanded routine worked out yet


Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 19, 2016, at 3:51 PM, bushma...@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Jim, I like that idea, do you have a photo of the cleat in operation? thanks
> 
> Richard
> S/V Bushmark4; C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
> 
> Richard N. Bush 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
> To: 1 CnC List 
> Cc: Jim Watts 
> Sent: Mon, Dec 19, 2016 3:39 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Spin Halyard Parking Cleat
> 
> I have a parking cleat for my main halyard, lets me do most of the hoisting 
> at the mast and finish it off with a cockpit winch. It's a cam cleat 2'' 
> inboard from where the halyard passes. Once I have the main up enough I stick 
> the halyard in the cam cleat, then the tension on the main halyard on the 
> winch pops it free. Works like a hot damn. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
> 
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Rewiring mast and anchor light..

[Dave via CnC-List]

Lol - tough QA team!What happened if you were late for work?
Good doc, I probably read in in my AMP training in.  '86 - my first job, we 
were an Amp shop.   And yes, we (later job) soldered and potted the amphenol 
and cannon connectors, crimped (only) the Reel fed terminals, heat shrunk 
everything, incl fancy moulded boots.   (Aircraft landing gear parts and some 
other small contracts I don't remember.)   My point was more about the slick 
professional appearance of the tightly heatshrinked connection, not the 
soldered crimp.   For sure I would not solder then crimp.  
Agreed on the tool, and I know very few non-industry people with decent crimp 
tools. The tool I have is better than most, (panduit)  but is not a 
controlled-cycle tool with precise, fitted dies, etc.  This is why I prefer an 
uninsulated closed barrel terminal done as mentioned,  and why I don't use 
pre-insulated terminals if I have others on hand.  (given the less than perfect 
crimp, I doubt the crimp-nuance in the doc is relevant. )
Anyway, hair-splitting I suppose in this application.

Dave.

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 11, 2016, at 1:58 PM, G Collins  wrote:
> 
> Dave, if you soldered a crimped connection in the harness shop I worked at 
> the Quality Assurance folks would hang your head on a light pole in the 
> parking lot as a warning to others!  We built wire harnesses for tanks, 
> helicopters, and fighter jets.
> 
> I think the attached .pdf is small enough to sneak through the server, I draw 
> your attention to the 2nd last page.
> 
> As to sourcing terminals, Digikey is a good and reasonably priced source if 
> you are buying quantities.  If you only need 4 then not so great.
> 
> A good quality crimp tool is key.
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>> On 2016-12-11 2:13 AM, Dave S via CnC-List wrote:
>> Flanged has the ends bent up and locking has a narrowing of the space 
>> between the fork's tines that means the terminal has to be clicked into 
>> place.  Either works for me.   Fred mentions that he prefers rings because 
>> they wont fall off shoudl the screw loosen.   I prefer locking forks because 
>> I wont fumble and drop the removed terminal block screw in the bilge!  (its 
>> the kind of thing I do...) and sometimes the terminal screws are staked into 
>> the terminal block and can't be removed.   
>> 
>> Ancor stuff is fine but remember they just repackage for the marine market 
>> and there are lots of industrial options out there if you have access or 
>> want to bother looking around a bit.   The best (most rugged) hand 
>> crimp-able terminals are non insulated terminals that have a second sleeve 
>> of metal over the crimp sleeve.  (i forget the industry term at the 
>> moment...)  The self encapsulating insulated terminals Rick mentions are 
>> nice. but I think that crimping, then soldering a quality non-insulated 
>> terminal then strain relieving with heatshrink (to alleviate the solder hard 
>> spot that wicks up the conductor) is the best solution of all, and looks 
>> like it was done by a mil qualified harness shop.   (past life...)  This 
>> will outlast the boat and owner and never oxidize or give trouble.  Doesn't 
>> take much longer.
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Rick Brass 
>> To: 
>> Cc: 
>> Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2016 15:56:07 -0500
>> Subject: -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Rick Brass 
>> To: 
>> Cc: 
>> Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2016 15:56:07 -0500
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rewiring mast and anchor light..
>> Good point, Fred. The forked terminals I used have the “bent up” ends – I 
>> think they are called “flanged”. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> And all the crimp terminals I use when doing wiring projects on the boat are 
>> the Anchor terminals with heat shrink tube and glue to cover the crimp and 
>> keep out moisture. Seems the best policy to stop problems with corrosion.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Rick Brass
>> 
>> Washington, NC..
>> Good point, Fred. The forked terminals I used have the “bent up” ends – I 
>> think they are called “flanged”. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> And all the crimp terminals I use when doing wiring projects on the boat are 
>> the Anchor terminals with heat shrink tube and glue to cover the crimp and 
>> keep out moisture. Seems the best policy to stop problems with corrosion.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Rick Brass
>> 
>> Washington, NC
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
___

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make a contribution to offset our 

Re: Stus-List Rewiring mast and anchor light..

[Dave via CnC-List]

Marek - my wires exit the mast through a hole on the port side near the base 
and are terminated with #8 flanged fork terminals.  Each wire is labelled. 
There is about 2' of wire sticking out of the mast.
I have mounted a barriered dual row terminal block below the port settee, with 
the harness  wires, also labelled, connected via ring terminals to one side.   
When the mast is stepped, the wires are fed through a hole in the settee and 
connected to the other side of the terminal block.  Big, rugged, Easy.   The 
flanged fork terminals can be installed on the terminal block without removing 
the terminal screws, and the flanges prevent the wire from falling off should 
the screws loosen.  (Which they don't) Dead reliable, and if a contact should 
corrode, it can simply be cut off and re terminated.  
Worked in the connector biz for over 30 years and never liked the multi pin 
connectors typically used for low voltage in boats.   This discrete wire,  
terminal, and terminal block makes a lot of sense to me for this application.   
If I had a cruising boat with a deck stepped mast I'd probably do the same 
thing, inside a junction box on deck.  I had contemplated using a brad Harrison 
mini change system, but thought the better of it.
To test your lights and wiring use a volt-ohm meter.  Measure the resistance of 
the bulb itself, then through the wires from the base of the mast with the bulb 
installed. Easier than a battery and looking for lights.  
 If your connections are unreliable, they are probably loose or oxidizing, or 
both.  This was happening with my engine harness.  You can probably trim and 
reterminate and protect with noalox or similar.  Clean the contact surfaces if 
any.  This is a periodic maintenance thing.  I'd be surprised if your wire was 
crumbling though the conductor insulation (rubber) on my stern light wiring 
certainly was.  The pvc insulated stuff in my mast is not though it's jacket is 
a bit stiff.
Having a proprietary connector, trapped in the mast makes no sense to me.
If you want I can post photos of the terminal block and wiring - I think I have 
a shot somewhere.  
Dave.  
Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 9, 2016, at 1:57 PM, Marek Dziedzic  wrote:
> 
> Dave,
>  
> If you have a good (i.e. reliable) way of connecting the mast wires to the 
> boat, when you step the mast, I would like to hear it. The worst part is that 
> my connector is inside the mast (under the mast foot when stepped), so you 
> have precisely 5 s in the spring to connect and verify if all lights are 
> working. For the last two years I am struggling with that. Two years ago my 
> anchor light was MIA, last year the steaming light. Two years ago a Sea Dog 
> connector disintegrated while in the mast (from heat in the summer?); last 
> year, there was no visible damage, but there was no connection either. I 
> suspect that because the old wires coming down from the mast are stiff and 
> the insulation is somewhat brittle, there might be something happening when I 
> stuff the connector and the wires in the mast cavity. The problem is that 
> there is no easy way to check this. Well, other than do a troubleshooting 
> session with the mast hanging on the masting crane (which is not, 
> realistically, an option – there is always a long line-up to the masting 
> crane).
>  
> Marek
>  
> From: Dave S via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, December 9, 2016 11:02
> To: C Stus List
> Cc: Dave S
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rewiring mast and anchor light..
>  
> I think it is wisest to connect the windex light (LED) to the running light 
> circuit, so another masthead wire is required.   The ground conductor from 
> the masthead anchor light could be used.
>  
> Am going to look at my windex, but I agree with Doug, either discreet LED or 
> strips could be used.  Only issue is reliable connection at masthead for 
> those of us who dismast ourselves annually.
>  
> Dave
>   
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Re: Stus-List Fire aboard

[Dave via CnC-List]

Not necessarily.   Same as in a house, an arc fault (or conceptually similar) 
can ignite combustible materials at lower-than-protected current levels.  Well 
secured wiring Protected from chafe is a really good idea.
Dave.  

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 6, 2016, at 5:30 PM, Patrick Davin  wrote:
> 
> So it was a solar charge controller that started the electrical fire. 
> Interesting since the list was just recently discussing solar panels (and I'm 
> planning to do that project in the spring). 
> 
> Either the controller was faulty, overloaded, or improperly installed. Hard 
> to speculate on which it was... but if it was properly fused and wires 
> properly sized, shouldn't that haven't prevented a fire? 
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C LF 38
> 
>> On Tue, Dec 6, 2016 at 12:05 PM,  wrote:
>> From: Dreuge 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: 
>> Date: Tue, 6 Dec 2016 12:13:21 -0500
>> Subject: Stus-List Fire aboard
>> I recall a discussion a while back on the list about having fire blankets on 
>> board.  At the time, I looked up a few fire blankets online, and I planned 
>> on getting one or two. After reading about yesterday’s Vendee Globe fire, 
>> I’m getting a few fire blankets today.
>> 
>> 
>> Be sure to watch the video after you have read about the fire.
>> 
>> http://www.vendeeglobe.org/en/news/16841/fire-aboard-conrad-colman-s-boat
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C 38 Landfall 
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Carrabelle, FL
>> 
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
> 
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Stus-List 25 for sail - almost free.

[Dave via CnC-List]

Saw this this morning.   Bargains often are not, however here's a low price for 
a 25 - Canadian $.
No knowledge of boat.

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/oakville-halton-region/c-and-c-25-1-000-first-person-647-973-1466/1220630583?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

Dave.

Sent from my iPad___

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Re: Stus-List Buckled Topsides at the Chainplates (was Re: Brokers and surveyors)

[Dave via CnC-List]

Thanks Dennis.   Agreed, in most cases,  (see my other reply) however I have  
have  seen several where dimples" would be an understatement.  Agreed also that 
even in the case of the corvette, it was probably not a structural concern, 
though that boat did need one chain plate knee repaired.  My point/the thread 
topic was that it was not mentioned in the survey, that surveyors seldom note 
this, and as a buyer (especially non local) I would want this sort of thing to 
be noted in the survey and to be made aware.  

Dave.

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 27, 2016, at 10:37 PM, Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Dave,
> 
> The list refers to this as "dimples".  In particular there was a discussion 
> years ago regarding early 32's.  You can try to search the archives for it.  
> Conventional wisdom is it is more cosmetic than structural.
> 
> Bottom line is it is not uncommon in older C's.  In my opinion, it has 
> little to do with whether the boat has a backstay or not.
> 
> My 35_1 had slight topside dimpling at the upper shroud braces.  Also visible 
> was the pattern of the roving from post cure shrinkage.  All the blemishes 
> disappeared after sanding and applying high build primer prior to painting.  
> The topsides now are perfectly with smooth.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touché 35_1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> On Nov 27, 2016 5:19 PM, "Dave via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> First sighted when I was looking at a c corvette.  This boat had older Dark 
> blue awlgrip and had been upgraded (including hydraulic backstab adjuster) 
> and was due again for a general refit
> When sighting down the top sides I detected some deep waviness (like 3/16 to 
> 1/4" distortion)  in the top sides right by the chain plates, and when I 
> looked closely i could see hard spots where the chain plate knees attached to 
> the hull.  This had occurred after the paint, and of course the dark paint 
> made it easier to spot.
> So, I started looking for this in other boats, and was quite surprised to see 
> how often this kind of distortion occurs especially in early '70s boats 
> retrofitted with hydraulic adjusters.   I have never seen it mentioned in a 
> survey.  
> Anyway, don't believe me, stand astern and sight along the top sides of boats 
> at your marina.  
> While you are at it, compare the verticality of the rudder vs the keel.   ;-)
> Dave.  
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Nov 27, 2016, at 9:38 AM, RANDY <randy.staff...@comcast.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Dave I was intrigued by your mention below of "buckled topsides at the 
>> chainplates".  What did that look like when you saw it?
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Randy
>> 
>> From: "Dave S via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> To: "C Stus List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Cc: "Dave S" <syerd...@gmail.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2016 6:27:48 AM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Brokers and surveyors
>> 
>> To add to Chuck's thoughts:
>> 
>> ...
>> 
>> Surveyors/surveys  are highly variable, and will not be as thorough or 
>> effective as you would like.  I have read surveys while looking at boats 
>> that missed obvious problems, bent rudder shaft, (2 C 34s)  buckled 
>> topsides at the chainplates...(several older boats with hydraulic backstay 
>> adjusters fitted)   Specific known issues should be researched by the buyer 
>> and specifically referenced to the surveyor and broker - again,  in writing. 
>>  Forums and lists like this are fantastic sources of info, and the list 
>> members know more than surveyors, generally.  (Examples would be  banging 
>> kanazaki transmissions, worn folding props, rod/wire rigging, keel stub/mast 
>> step issues on 33-2, 35-3, 41, cracking keels in frozen parts of the 
>> world... - no doubt there are many many others)  It is rare indeed that  a 
>> surveyor will be that knowledgable or thorough with regard to a particular 
>> model.  (unless he owned one, as in Chuck's case)  If I were remote- buying 
>> a boat that was worth any sort of money I would make a point of inspecting 
>> it with the surveyor.
>> 
>> ...
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Buckled Topsides at the Chainplates (was Re: Brokers and surveyors)

[Dave via CnC-List]

First sighted when I was looking at a c corvette.  This boat had older Dark 
blue awlgrip and had been upgraded (including hydraulic backstab adjuster) and 
was due again for a general refit
When sighting down the top sides I detected some deep waviness (like 3/16 to 
1/4" distortion)  in the top sides right by the chain plates, and when I looked 
closely i could see hard spots where the chain plate knees attached to the 
hull.  This had occurred after the paint, and of course the dark paint made it 
easier to spot.
So, I started looking for this in other boats, and was quite surprised to see 
how often this kind of distortion occurs especially in early '70s boats 
retrofitted with hydraulic adjusters.   I have never seen it mentioned in a 
survey.  
Anyway, don't believe me, stand astern and sight along the top sides of boats 
at your marina.  
While you are at it, compare the verticality of the rudder vs the keel.   ;-)
Dave.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 27, 2016, at 9:38 AM, RANDY  wrote:
> 
> Dave I was intrigued by your mention below of "buckled topsides at the 
> chainplates".  What did that look like when you saw it?
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy
> 
> From: "Dave S via CnC-List" 
> To: "C Stus List" 
> Cc: "Dave S" 
> Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2016 6:27:48 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Brokers and surveyors
> 
> To add to Chuck's thoughts:
> 
> ...
> 
> Surveyors/surveys  are highly variable, and will not be as thorough or 
> effective as you would like.  I have read surveys while looking at boats that 
> missed obvious problems, bent rudder shaft, (2 C 34s)  buckled topsides at 
> the chainplates...(several older boats with hydraulic backstay adjusters 
> fitted)   Specific known issues should be researched by the buyer and 
> specifically referenced to the surveyor and broker - again,  in writing.  
> Forums and lists like this are fantastic sources of info, and the list 
> members know more than surveyors, generally.  (Examples would be  banging 
> kanazaki transmissions, worn folding props, rod/wire rigging, keel stub/mast 
> step issues on 33-2, 35-3, 41, cracking keels in frozen parts of the world... 
> - no doubt there are many many others)  It is rare indeed that  a surveyor 
> will be that knowledgable or thorough with regard to a particular model.  
> (unless he owned one, as in Chuck's case)  If I were remote- buying a boat 
> that was worth any sort of money I would make a point of inspecting it with 
> the surveyor.
> 
> ...
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Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38

[Dave via CnC-List]

Patrick, for what it's worth, and this may not be much, the Lf is a more of a 
cruising biased design, and if that's the intended use and safety and 
reliability are paramount, and all else is equal, I'd convert to standard, 
stranded wire.  As to the responsiveness  attributed to every C yacht ever 
made by Brian toss, I can only assume he's thinking high performance/racing not 
cruising. 
I have a 33-2, safe to say a more  racing-oriented design than a landfall, (I 
hope so!) and it has rod rigging, but I honestly doubt I'm a good enough 
sailor, and demanding enough, and the other aspects of my rig are  optimized 
enough, that rod vs wire would matter much.
My c$.02

Dave.



Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2016 14:47:05 -0800
From: Patrick Davin 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38
Message-ID:
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Ok, I've found out a lot more in the last 3 weeks, but am frustratingly no
closer to making a decision. All I've learned is that Navtec parts are
really expensive and complex. And that everyone I talk to disagrees with
the previous person (ie, even professional riggers don't agree on what is
recommended + safe) - I suppose this is normal in sailing though.

I found a few more old threads from the C list:

http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2011-November/041498.html
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2014-April/066294.html

A lot of it seems to come down to the Navtangs. Navtec changed the design
several times (to make improvements), and Navtec had so much employee
turnover that there's only one guy remaining who has been through all the
iterations.

My previous thinking was based on that my '84 has K150 tangs with SS tie
rods (confirmed by a rigger when we pulled one tang last year). And the
tang was easily unscrewed, which lends me hope the other 3 would also be
similar. So I assumed I could reuse my tangs, because it seems other C
owners did so, and last year's rigger said it looked reusable (based on
visual inspection).

However a more conservative rigger basically implied I would be stupid to
reuse it. Navtec recommends replacing them - but Navtec recommends
replacing anything older than 12 years old, so I don't really know what to
make of Navtec's advice (they have no incentive *not* to recommend
replacing their hardware with new hardware of their own).

A local rigger told me the navtangs are $1000 each. I have 4 of them, so
replacing them would basically double the cost of a rerig (and that's not
counting any labor cost). (I think the $1k/each is an overestimate though -
I found a price online of $500-600).

It seems like a lot of people who have rerigged haven't actually done full
rerigs - ie, they reused turnbuckles, or tangs. I do agree with the more
conservative rigger that it doesn't make sense to leave a "weak link" in
the system. But I'm not sure whether old navtangs must be automatically
condemned into the category of being a weak link.

I'm seriously thinking about a wire conversion again, but that has it's own
complications. Has anyone done that on the side shrouds? From archives I
know Calypso did forestay/backstay, but those are easy to convert. The mast
tangs and discontinuous lower spreader junction are the tricky part.

I found a Youtube channel where they replaced their Navtec rig with wire:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVhj714rleQ

But they have a Niagara 35 with a single spreader rig rather than double,
so that makes it a bit simpler. And the well-known rigger Brion Toss has
said (in his forum) that for a C, he would stay with rod, because rod
makes a difference to the responsiveness of C's.

-Patrick
1984 C Landfall 38
Seattle, WA


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Re: Stus-List Velcro Adhesive

[Dave via CnC-List]

Before messing with glue, at least try the self-adhesive industrial Velcro.   A 
different breed, very tenacious.  
Dave.



Message: 1
Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2016 09:03:59 -0800
From: Jim Watts 
To: 1 CnC List 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Velcro Adhesive
Message-ID:
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

My panels are velcro'd all around and screwed in each corner. The velcro
that the PO used was the self-adhesive kind and it hasn't lasted well. It
also left sticky bits in all the wrong places as it failed, so it's
difficult to replace. If it was my choice, I would use a good quality
solvent-based contact cement.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


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Re: Stus-List spinnaker pole repair and refurb

[Dave via CnC-List]

Had  a brainwave today and picked up a large exhaust pipe expander from 
princess auto today (a Canadian version of Harbour Freight)
Worked very well indeed to press the dent out from the inside, and 
coincidentally straighten the bend - no doubt it is not at its original 
strength, but overall not bad at all!  

Dave 




Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2016 11:13:31 -0600
From: "Dennis C." 
To: CnClist 
Subject: Re: Stus-List spinnaker pole repair and refurb
Message-ID:
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I'd do that.  Buy a tube and move everything.

With the dent so close to the end, you could cut it off and sell the
remainder on eBay.

Dennis C.

On Tue, Nov 15, 2016 at 8:51 AM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> We bent/dented a spin pole on a C 33 MKII forgot to release the baby
> stay on a jibegot a new length of aluminum tube and used all the
> existing hardwarethe Binnacle did all the work for a few hundred
> $$$.FYI
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> On 2016-11-14 6:58 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
> 
> Dave,
> 
> I?d be very wary of any dent fix solution that doesn?t involve a sleeve.
> Even better, simply buy a length of aluminum tube of the same dimensions,
> cut it to length and add all the existing hardware. I don?t have any
> numbers but I have to believe it will be cheaper than having someone try to
> pull the dent out.
> 
> Remember, when that spinnaker is up it will be putting a large amount of
> strain on that pole. Having it fold up at the wrong moment will be un-fun.
> 
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin?s Overdue Refit 
> 
> On Nov 14, 2016, at 5:30 PM, rjcasciato--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Dave.call your local Dr. Dent repair...find him in the automotive
> services section of your yellow pages..
> Those guys do this on metal all the time.
> Ron C.
> 
> 
> Sent from XFINITY Connect Mobile App
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> 
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: syerd...@gmail.com
> Sent: 2016-11-14 5:26:16 PM
> Subject: Stus-List spinnaker pole repair and refurb
> 
> Evening all,
> 
> This winter's theme is running rigging, and this includes dealing with the
> spinnaker pole, which is dented, slightly bent, and needs a new shock cord
> bridle.   Per recommendations here, I picked up the shock cord tools last
> weekend in Nova Scotia - that part is easy.  Any suggestions on how to
> with the dent/bend?
> 
> See photos here.

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Stus-List Subject: Re: 1991 C 51

[Dave via CnC-List]

Called 'spice' by any chance?  Owned by my uncle, charter-skippered by my 
cousin...  was never aboard unfortunately.
Dave


Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2016 11:55:59 -0500
From: Allen Miles 
To: CNC 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1991 C 51
Message-ID:
   

Re: Stus-List Winter Project

[Dave via CnC-List]

Well, old school, (rorc rule maybe?) and she certainly won't surf!   At 88' loa 
I guess you can lean things out a bit!   Check out the Deerfoot 62 or sundeer 
for non-IOR proportioned boats.

Dave

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 14, 2016, at 6:28 PM, Dan Grant  wrote:
> 
> Her beam seems narrow ?
> 1970 c and c  corvette Hull 148
> Puffin 
> Ipswich ,ma
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Nov 14, 2016, at 4:51 PM, Dave S via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Project yacht for sale - why compromise?
>> 
>> Some photos shot in Shelburne Nova Scotia this weekend.
>> 
>> http://aberdeentyger.blogspot.ca/2016/11/photos-of-yacht-tyger-taken-nov-2016.html
>> 
>> Dave  C 33-2 Windstar
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Stus-List Vendee globe

[Dave via CnC-List]

Nice short video here on one of the imoca 60s which will be competing in the 
planet's more incredible sporting event - starts soon.   

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x50ghcm_daily-summary-4-days-to-go-vendee-globe-2016_sport#tab_embed



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Stus-List (no subject)

[Dave via CnC-List]

Was going to say this, for docking, you can just tie a breastline to the 
toerail...
I have a line run from bow cleat, tied to toerail beside the cockpit with 
enough slack that I can drop it over the cleat at my slip when docking 
singlehanded.  I then turn the helm slightly away from the dock, put the boat 
back in gear and just leave it idling.The boat takes up the slack and 
snuggles itself against the dock, bow gently trying to turn away, and idles 
there while I step ashore to secure things.I have a length of plastic 
tubing over the line to stiffen it and make it easy to drop over the cleat 
while drifting by.Watched a neighbour do that a few years back and copied 
him.  very simple.  

Dave.

Message: 5
Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2016 01:47:50 +
From: Josh Muckley 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Handling Skill
Message-ID:
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Funny you should mention a midships cleat.  My wife has been begging me for
a midships cleat/solution of some sort.  I finally had some time and made
some amsteel loops that I luggage tagged onto the toe rail at the midships
position.  I tie my mooring line to it with a sheet bend.  The amsteel is
rated at ~9000 pounds and the loop doubled over quadruples the number of
fibers carrying the load so I feel very confident that the loop is not the
weak point in the system.  When I'm done using the loops  they just live
there on the rail until next time.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, M

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Re: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open

[Dave via CnC-List]

Dave, 
If your shift linkage is correctly adjusted and you have dealt with the 
alignment, shaft and prop, and the vibration can be described as violent as the 
Revs  increase, I would not rule out the transmission, despite  the rebuild.
You mention a new cone gear, (?) but that does not confirm that the mating 
surfaces of the bronze cone (male) and its stainless (female) mate in the 
forward gear have been renewed or deglazed (lapped) when the unit was serviced. 
 That's where the slipping occurs.  Might not hurt to check this with the shop. 
   It's a really weird problem, and seems like something badly out of balance 
more than slipping.  Mine really shook the boat.  The symptoms you describe in 
your first paragraph were EXACTLY what I experienced.
Good luck!
Dave

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2016 01:21:07 + (UTC)
From: davidjaco...@comcast.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open
Message-ID:
   <1690653408.11591953.1477531267762.javamail.zim...@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Kevin, 

I've struggled with the same issue for three seasons. 

When I first got the boat it have a Martek 2 blade folding prop. When motoring 
off the mooring no problem. But after sailing the prop vibrated horribly. 
Throwing it into reverse and then back into forward usually but not always 
resolved the issue. At the end of the season I sent the prop to Martek to have 
it rebuilt. I also had the transmission rebuilt and the cone gear replaced. Put 
the boat back in the water in the spring and found that the problem was still 
there. The following winter I replaced the Martek prop with a Flexofold. Lwo 
and behold the problem is still there. 

I made sure that the engine was in alignment and had two boat yard mechanics 
out on the boat. When heading into a 3 knot current there was no vibration but 
when we went perpendicular to the current the vibration resumed. This happened 
repeatedly. The mechanics told be that the vibration is typical for a two 
bladed folding prop. One thing that became apparrent during that test was that 
the maximum rotation I was able to get up to was 2600 RPM. The boat has the 
original Yanmar 3GM30 and Kanzaki KM3-A transmission. The gear ratio is not 
stamped on the transmission but, I've been assured that the gear ratio is 
2.61:1 and have no reason to believe it's not. I purchased the prop recommended 
to me by Flexofold which is 2 blade 16x12R. When I told Flexofold about the 
issue they insisted that the prop was the correct one and I do know that other 
35 MK3s have had success with this same set up. 

The Flexofold blades are geared to one another. So, it's impossible for one 
blade to open while the other is not. So, that can not be the problem. 

So, any ideas beyond what I've already done are greatly appreciated. 

Dave J 
Saltaire 
C 35MK3 
Bristol, RI 

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Re: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open

[Dave via CnC-List]

Kevin, 

I've struggled with the same issue for three seasons. 

When I first got the boat it have a Martek 2 blade folding prop. When motoring 
off the mooring no problem. But after sailing the prop vibrated horribly. 
Throwing it into reverse and then back into forward usually but not always 
resolved the issue. At the end of the season I sent the prop to Martek to have 
it rebuilt. I also had the transmission rebuilt and the cone gear replaced. Put 
the boat back in the water in the spring and found that the problem was still 
there. The following winter I replaced the Martek prop with a Flexofold. Lwo 
and behold the problem is still there. 

I made sure that the engine was in alignment and had two boat yard mechanics 
out on the boat. When heading into a 3 knot current there was no vibration but 
when we went perpendicular to the current the vibration resumed. This happened 
repeatedly. The mechanics told be that the vibration is typical for a two 
bladed folding prop. One thing that became apparrent during that test was that 
the maximum rotation I was able to get up to was 2600 RPM. The boat has the 
original Yanmar 3GM30 and Kanzaki KM3-A transmission. The gear ratio is not 
stamped on the transmission but, I've been assured that the gear ratio is 
2.61:1 and have no reason to believe it's not. I purchased the prop recommended 
to me by Flexofold which is 2 blade 16x12R. When I told Flexofold about the 
issue they insisted that the prop was the correct one and I do know that other 
35 MK3s have had success with this same set up. 

The Flexofold blades are geared to one another. So, it's impossible for one 
blade to open while the other is not. So, that can not be the problem. 

So, any ideas beyond what I've already done are greatly appreciated. 

Dave J 
Saltaire 
C 35MK3 
Bristol, RI 


- Original Message -

From: "John and Maryann Read via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "John and Maryann Read"  
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 7:18:44 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open 



Ditto to Dave’s comment. Our Yanmar 3GM is mounted to a Kanzaki transmission 
that was slipping. Symptoms were prop did not open symmetrically because was 
not spinning enough so lots of vibration, when it did fully open the shaft was 
not spinning at a rate consistent with the throttle. No obvious issues with the 
prop manually opening when hauled. Pulled transmission, got it rebuilt. Biggest 
expense was OEM rebuild kit and needed new cone gear as was polished. 
Reinstalled and problem solved. When reinstalling it is very important to 
ensure the shift cable is adjusted so the transmission lever is fully engaged 
before the lever on the binnacle is at the end of its travel – ie there is some 
remaining movement for the spring fitting that attaches the cable to the 
transmission lever. In our case that meant attaching to the inner transmission 
lever hole. Also, an annual maintenance item is to oil the spring fitting. 



FWIW, here is the info on my rebuilder. He is the person who did all the 
transmission work for Mack Boring when they were in the business of rebuilding 
and apparently there are some tricks of the trade to correctly rebuild. 
Shipping was by parcel post, he was very informative and easy to work with. I 
had the unit returned to me in 7 days. No affiliation just a happy customer. 



Rick Neary 

East Coast Marine Transmission 

253 Vineyard Ave 

South Amboy, NJ 08879 

732-991-0694 



John and Maryann 

Legacy III 

1982 C 34 

Noank, CT 




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2016 11:02 AM 
To: C Stus List 
Cc: Dave S 
Subject: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open 





Make sure it's the prop. I threw a ton of money at similar symptoms before 
learning that the transmission was slipping. (bang bang bang in forward only, 
and intermittently, though progressively less so.) 


Pulled the gearbox and did the repair myself in an evening for less than $100 
after replacing a lot of stuff. 





Dave. 











Message: 1 
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2016 11:43:15 + 
From: Kevin Paxton < kpax...@paxdesigns.com > 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open 
Message-ID: 
< caokrqryaxxaxcfer76uuybknzaogfkfydz-tktommg+pcys...@mail.gmail.com > 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" 

Hey guys, with all of the discussion on props it reminded me that I'm 
having an issue with my 2 blade folding prop. Pretty sure it's the Martec 
that you all are mentioning. 

I continue to have issues with one blade not opening after we've been out 
sailing. Once we drop the sails and go to engage the engine and prop it 
fails to open one side and I get severe vibrations. Is this a normal thing 
with these props? It truly makes me want to just get a fixed prop. 
Unfortunately that's not in the budget right now though. 

So far I've tried: 

- to 

Re: Stus-List Mainsail replacement considerations - winter reading

[Dave via CnC-List]

Getting close to a mainsail decision and will post more before long - very much 
in line with the various pieces of advice I received from fellow listers.   I 
will summarize all of that soon.

   Kevin was dead on - the blog itself is a wealth of info, well written, very 
relevant etc, however I also noticed that the blogger (Brian Hancock) offers a 
"free gift" for becoming a subscriber.  So, I took the bait, and the gift 
turned out to be the e-book Kevin refers to.Kevin, you mention that the 
book may be outdated with respect to fabric, and maybe so, but for many "Dacron 
grade" sailors like me this may not matter much.   I found the book to be very 
relevant, and like the blog, well written.  Timely for me, but a solid, 
comprehensive  winter read on the subject, and for most here I think, worth 
many times the price.   ;-)

Dave.  33-2 Windstar.





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2016 15:55:22 +
From: Kevin Driscoll 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mainsail replacement considerations
Message-ID:
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

If I were buying a sail right now I would be reading everything on Brian
Hancock's blog about lofts, cuts, and fiber. You can find it here.
 This guy is
a professional and up on the latest developments in fiber technology, which
is valuable since it is changing every season. He also has a book *Maximum
Sail Power* which may be a little dated in the fiber department, but the
fundamentals are still there.

>snip<

KD
30-2

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Re: Stus-List AIS VHF

[Dave via CnC-List]

Jake, my ICOM m506 vhf is NMEA 2000 compliant and has an. AIS receiver.   It 
plugs into my accursed seatalk NG network via an adapter cable, and my ray i70 
displays the AIS targets.   Plug and play. SeatalkNG is an nmea 2000 
network with a proprietary cable system intended to make it difficult to use 
any non-Raymarine instruments on your network. the data is the same, you must 
simply deal with some non–mating plugs.

I have the icom vhf and a garmin GPS antenna on my SeatalkNG network and both 
work fine.  In one case I added a field attachable nmea2000 connector to a 
SeatalkNG cable, in another I bought a raymarine adapter cable. 

Dave.

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2016 11:43:59 -0400
From: "Jake Brodersen" 
To: "'G Collins'" ,
   
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS VHF
Message-ID: <00c701d227c4$22f63600$68e2a200$@cox.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Graham,



Yes, that would talk to my current plotter, but not to my Raymarine stuff
that is SeaTalk NG.  There's probably a converter available somewhere.  I
plan on getting a Raymarine plotter soon, so everything will be NG then.



Jake

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Re: Stus-List n2k AIS data not viewable on chartplotter apps?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Thanks Joel - tried that today but no dice.  Something for spring I guess.  
Pretty happy with the rest of the setup anyway.  Thinking about a maretron wind 
inst. now...  software is too cool not to have one!
Dave 


Message: 7
Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2016 18:35:39 -0400
From: Joel Aronson 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List n2k AIS data not viewable on chartplotter apps?
Message-ID:
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Check the baud rate on the laptop needs to be 38400
Joel

On Saturday, October 8, 2016, Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Having fun playing with and learning my NMEA 2000 network, and various
> interfaces and apps.  Have run into an issue (likely personal) getting AIS
> targets to display.
> Anyone else have this sort of issue?  Some cool screenshots from the
> actisense NMEA viewer.
> 
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/10/n2k-screenshots-
> from-actisense-viewer.html
> 
> Thanks, Dave   Windstar 33-2
> 


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551

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Stus-List Annapolis boat show / DC

[Dave via CnC-List]

Not C content specifically but am hoping for local guidance.
Was planning a driving trip with the family to dc, long weekend, including a 
part day at the Annapolis boat show.  
Have  struck out on appropriate accommodations in dc - hoping for something nw 
and near the metro.  Any other towns/areas that could save as a base?  Was 
looking at rental places on VRBO and the like.

Thoughts appreciated.  Dave

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List spreader lights - do you use them?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Thanks all for the responses - the 33-2 has the stock steaming/foredeck combo, 
plus, on mine the vestigial wiring for past spreader lights.  I have used the 
foredeck light once.  Each has its own breaker, argument enough for moving to 
led and replacing at least one breaker with a compact switch.   Will be dealing 
with mast stuff this winter

Dave - 33-2


Message: 1
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2016 16:22:32 + (UTC)
From: RANDY 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Dreuge 
Subject: Re: Stus-List spreader lights - do you use them?
Message-ID:
   <677215583.7444317.1474993352870.javamail.zim...@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I only use mine dockside at night when tidying the boat after a sail. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original M
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Re: Stus-List Freeze/thaw issues in lead keels

[Dave via CnC-List]

For the record - those are not photos of windstar!   The one that is really bad 
was a 33-2 and it piqued my curiosity so I went for a walk with my camera.  

I did have the waterlogged keel stub issue, which I fixed, and I then bedded 
and epoxy/glassed over the keel/hull joint, faired with epoxy, then coated with 
inyerprotect.  Hauled out yesterday and all appears well.  If work needs doing, 
it can all be skimmed of with a grinder.

Dave


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2016 07:17:41 -0400
From: "John and Maryann Read" 
To: 
Subject: 
Message-ID: <00ad01d218b0$c43b5860$4cb20920$@net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Will second Bill's comment.  Two years ago a C 37 was in our boat yard for
the winter with a keel that was not well attached to the keel stub.  The
keel nuts would not tighten but slipped on the bolt threads.  Dropped the
keel to discover the bolts had not been sealed at manufacture allowing bilge
water in causing crevice corrosion to the point the threads were damaged.
This allowed keel movement elongating the holes in the stub which allowed
more leakage / corrosion.  Solution was to ship the keel to foundry for
repair and new bolts, repair stub holes, allow everything to thoroughly dry,
reinstall with good sealer all around.  Major job to say the least.



Dave's photos look like a similar problem - best of luck in repairing

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Re: Stus-List Open CPN (phorvati .)

[Dave via CnC-List]

Yep, I had that happen once, pre-ram mount.  The Bimini seems to shade it well 
enough, and I generally leave the iPad below unless needed for a harbour 
entrance or channel.   (Not terribly demanding pilotage around here - north 
shore of Lake Ontario). I may add a mounting ball near the companionway as well.
Dave.


Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 26, 2016, at 11:52 AM, Dreuge  wrote:
> 
> Hi Dave,
> 
> Ram mounts are great.  A word of caution regarding direct sunlight, a friend 
> of mine installed a similar RAM setup for an iPad mini.  He added a nice 12V 
> power junction at the helm to provide power to the iPad.  It looked great and 
> was working fine.  But there is a big problem with these devices quickly 
> overheating in direct sunlight and shutting down with the message “iPad needs 
> to cool down before you can use it.”.
> 
> Draping a cloth over the iPad helps to keep it from overheating, but if you 
> have a Bimini top this may not be a problem.  My friend is back using his 
> iPhone for sailing on nice sunny days.
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
>> On Sep 26, 2016, at 11:09 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> 
>> Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2016 22:02:12 -0400
>> From: Dave S 
>> To: "C Stus List" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Open CPN (phorvati .)
>> Message-ID:
>>  
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> I shot some pics of my helm with RAM/lifeproof mount and iPad
>> multi-multi-function display.
>> No issues with adequate brightness in daylight (it is under the bimini
>> though) and seems plenty rugged.
>> 
>> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/09/electronics-what-to-do.html
>> 
>> I have played with OPENCPN in its linux and windows versions and I like it
>> - the plug ins are cool too.   This may be my next step.  I have read that
>> a logitech track ball works well as an interface but cannot vouch for this.
>> 
>> Dave
> 
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Stus-List (no subject)

[Dave via CnC-List]

Graham/all - to be clear, to me the issue is not so much being able to update 
one Manufacturer's firmware from another's device, it's about not being able to 
update it at all, without a MFD  (hence the 'accessories to MFD subject line'). 
 Raymarine could easily have elected to permit updates by some other means at 
the network level or at the device, but didn't.  

Read the manual before buying?  Just dug them out and here's  what it says in 
my pristine p70 autopilot controller manual:

'- software revision
Raymarine regularly updates product software to add new features and improve 
existing functionality.  This document covers lighthouse version 3.xx which 
should be used in conjunction with ev... Blah blah 
Check the raymarine website to ensure you have the latest software and user 
manuals.'

That's all it says, and I'm a bit surprised.  They address that software 
updates  are part of ownership, and (rightly) offer and encourage the happy new 
autopilot purchaser to update their software, even helpfully directing them to 
the website.(Sounds great, here's my money!). One minor detail seems to 
have been omitted...  

It been an interesting topic to explore, with interesting perspectives.   I'll  
figure out a way to sort it.   I like the raymarine instruments and their 
people were accessible and courteous.  The more I dig into it though, the more 
convinced I am that their approach to this is unethical, irrespective of how 
one might feel about their broader strategy.   (The manual ices it.). Anyway, 
now we know, as will others who read the discussion. 

I didn't hate them, but I'm starting to.

Mic drop... ;-)

Dave



> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2016 00:02:16 +
> From: G Collins 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine exits the instrument, vhf and
>autopilot business!
> Message-ID:
>
> 
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
> 
> You Ray haters kill me...   just kidding!  But sometimes it pays to read 
> the manual before you buy, and they are all available online these days.
> 
> That Garmin thing is a cool solution, I like it.  The Navico (B) 
> version doesn't seem to be available anywhere, so that may have been a 
> possible route to firmware updates but no longer...
> 
> I guess my conclusion early on was to get a MDF that goes with the big 
> electronics on the boat, so my a75 MDF can update my EV200 autopilot.  
> And IMHO it makes sense to have the same brand of anyway, so that you 
> are sure they will work together as best they can.  My wind/speed/depth 
> system, since it is B, is essentially orphaned.  I'm not so concerned 
> with that.  And I am quite happy with my Raymarine gear, whereas I've 
> had two Triton displays malfunction on me in the same 3 seasons.
> 
> As to why you can't update one companies gear from another companies 
> MDF, I can't see any company signing up for that - say I update my B 
> firmware over my Ray MDF, and next thing my Triton displays are bricks - 
> who do I call to get it resolved? That would not be a fun day.
> 
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
> 
>> 

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Re: Stus-List 3QM30 Head Gasket

[Dave via CnC-List]

Michael, 

Can you please provide some detail as to how you were able to "rod out" your 
raw water passages? 

Thank you, 
Dave J 
Saltaire 
C 33 MK3 
Bristol, RI 


- Original Message -

From: "Michael Brannon via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Michael Brannon"  
Sent: Friday, September 9, 2016 9:27:36 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 3QM30 Head Gasket 

I had a similar experience on my old 3QM30. Removing the head is not difficult 
and there isn’t much interference on the engine. On my C 36 the difficulty 
was the lack of space to lift the head. To remove it I had to remove the head 
studs from the block and then slide it forward. I went the cheap route and just 
replaced the head gasket. A year later I updated the engine with a new YANMAR. 
I’d get an estimate for both removal and the service work on the head and the 
injectors. If you save much then remove the head yourself and deliver it to a 
machine shop to rework the valves and injectors. Lastly my 3QM30 was raw water 
cooled and many of the water passages were clogged. I was able to rod them out 
without removing the engine. 

Feel free to contact me off list if you have any questions. 

Mike 
VIRGINIA LEE 93295 
C 36 CB 
Virginia Beach, VA 




On Sep 8, 2016, at 8:00 PM, Harry Hallgring via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 

DR, 
Check out simplemachine.com in Providence. 

Harry 
Sent from my iPad 

On Sep 8, 2016, at 2:40 PM, David via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 




So...we are leaving harbor to make our way down to Mystic for the Rendezvous. 
As I usually do I turn around and check the exhaust for water and color. 

Today the color as darkish grey and it looked like oil was coming out as well. 

I do an immediate 180 and go back to the mooring. 

Mechanic is out within the hour and confirms my suspicions. Head gasket. To do 
the job right (injectors, planing head etc) he estimates $2,500 to $3,000. I 
think the price is fair but I wonder if I could do it myself. Anyone have any 
experiences around this? I am a fair mechanic, but I don't want to be 
penny-wise of pound foolish and I have never done anything like this before. 

Thanks in advance... 



David F. Risch 
1981 40-2 
(401) 419-4650 (cell) 





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Re: Stus-List Marine Batteries

[Dave via CnC-List]

If it were me,  I would remove the weaker, top up with distilled water,charge 
(use a car charger) have it load tested by the trustworthy place you will 
ultimately buy from, and decide.  Repeat for #2.  
If the battery was very low on water for any length of time and was repeatedly 
charged and discharged, you will probably need to replace it.  Btdt.

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 5, 2016, at 4:25 PM, Kevin Paxton  wrote:
> 
> One of them had low water. I have some extra sulfuric acid left from a 
> motorcycle battery. Would that work to top it off?  I don't know what to do 
> with this extra acid laying around.
> 
> One battery, the one with low water has approx 4v left in it. The other has 
> 1.8v. a different battery maintainer says they are ok and I'm trying to 
> charge the low one first to see if it will do anything. Should I even be 
> trying?  should I just replace both?
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Sep 5, 2016, 16:01 syerd...@gmail.com  wrote:
>> Ugh- forgot to edit the subject line. sorry all.
>> Dave.
>> 
>> Welcome.  Make sure you Check the water level in the cells, and then load 
>> test the batteries.
>> 
>> Any good quality flooded, deep cycle marine style will work fine. Your 
>> 34 is similar in size to my 33-2 and given your desire to overnight and 
>> cruise a bit, you may be poised on the slippery slope that I negotiated this 
>> season.   I expect will find that the two battery arrangement as supplied is 
>> limiting,  (you protect half your deep-cycle capacity for starting)  and 
>> that any battery capacity upgrades (should you be thinking that way) are 
>> very limited by space.   (The guys here with multiple golf cart banks make 
>> me jealous).   It took me awhile to figure out how to optimize this (for my 
>> use, my boat,   ymmv). and I documented my thinking and upgrades here: 
>> 
>> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/p/blog-page.html
>> 
>> How about a latin/English play on words - Pax Familia ?
>> 
>> Dave, Windstar 33-2.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> essage: 2
>>> Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2016 16:39:01 +
>>> From: Kevin Paxton 
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Subject: Stus-List Marine Batteries
>>> Message-ID:
>>>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Hey everyone. Just recently subscribed to the list. Purchased a '82 C 34
>>> a few years ago. Been sailing it around the Chesapeake on brief day sails
>>> so far with the aim to have a few overnighters soon once the kids get a
>>> little older. We are based in Pasadena up Cornfield Creek. I'm lucky enough
>>> to have a community dock with slips that are real cheap. :-)
>>> 
>>> Anyways, both of my group 27 batteries got completely discharged since the
>>> last time I checked them. So I need to either determine if there is any way
>>> to salvage them or decide on a new set of batteries. Any suggestions on
>>> good batteries or ones to stay away from? Is there any gain to trying to
>>> revive them?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> They power a Yanmar 3gm30f and I haven't had any issues with starting them,
>>> but keeping them charged for any amount of time has been challenging. So
>>> I've been thinking of getting one that is a dual purpose and the other a
>>> true deep cycle for use as a house battery. What kind of combinations do
>>> others have?
>>> 
>>> Thanks!!
>>> 
>>> Kevin
>>> '82 C 34 #473?
>>> Japhy's Spirit (needs a rename, thinking 6 Pax, family of 6 Paxton is last
>>> name)
>> 
>>> -- next part --
>>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>>> URL: 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 128, Issue 25
>>> *
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Re: Stus-List Sliding companion way hatch. 35-3

[Dave via CnC-List]

Alan, 
Why did you change to the Harken traveler? 

Dave J 
Saltaire 
C 33 Mk3 
Bristol, RI 


- Original Message -

From: "ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List"  
To: "C"  
Cc: "ALAN BERGEN"  
Sent: Friday, September 2, 2016 2:23:00 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sliding companion way hatch. 35-3 

Good suggestion by Jim Watts. I replaced my traveler with one from Harken. I 
kept the aluminum channel, and replaced the Schaeffer track with a Harken high 
profile track. You can use the existing mounting holes . 

Alan Bergen 
35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 

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Stus-List Re EV 100 autopilot

[Dave via CnC-List]

I have the same unit.   Control head at helm.
n2k 5 port, GPS antenna, and autopilot pieces at foot of quarter berth.
Happy with that.

Dave.  33-2



From: Adam Hayden 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List EV 100 autopilot
Message-ID:


   

   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hey there.  I just upgraded my auto pilot to a Raymarine EV 100 wheel pilot.  
Any suggestions where to mount the course computer and sensor core?The control 
head will be placed where the existing control head is mounted beside the 
companionway.Right now the gyro compass as mounted at the foot of the 
quarter-berth.  Also can I connect it to my Garmin Echomap Dv 70 plotter.  

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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Dave via CnC-List]

Imo- I think the best reason not to use epoxy on the companionway steps is that 
it is probably not really necessary, especially on teak.Second best reason 
is cost, third is repairability vs varnish.  
Yer basic general purpose epoxy is too thick in my opinion for easy varnishing, 
(btdt several times), and epoxy degrades in uv.  (Requires varnish anyway to 
protect, so you'll still be varnishing). 
 If epoxy is necessary, There are formulations available, used on bar tables 
and the like,  which are better suited for being used as a brush-on coating.  
Also, there are plenty of other brands than WEST, that work fine.  
Composites Canada has a good selection for those north of the border.

Dave   - multi-epoxied as is his 33-2






Message: 8
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2016 18:40:48 +
From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
To: Stevan Plavsa , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
   
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps
Message-ID:
   <169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f169...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Steve

In the past my friend Andy had great success with varnish over West epoxy on 
their former C 25 Dry Red.  I tried to do the same on our former Niagara 26 
Full Tilt 2 and always had sags etc in the epoxy.

This past winter I used the 105 resin / 207 slow hardener on the advice of Andy 
and others.  Since the sole was comprised of a single sheet of ? inch teak and 
holly that cost over $600 I wanted it protected and to look good.  There were 
no sags or obvious bubbles.  I did a light sand between coats as well.  Note 
that this was in my garage with temperatures around 50 degrees Fahrenheit or 10 
Celsius.

It was also suggested to me not to use the gloss version of Epiphanes in favour 
of their matte finish.  I really liked the end result

Mike
Persistence
Halifax
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Re: Stus-List Possible upgrade to a C 36

[Dave via CnC-List]

For sure Joe, there will be much more variance boat to boat, and  anyway it's 
just one man's opinion.  (Well, I suppose two, cuz I agreed).  I.   I won't 
speak for the gentleman, but I remember the context, and the inference was not 
that earlier boats somehow lacked 'quality' relative to later, only that as 
manufacturers, c progressed .  (One would hope so, and I'm now comforted he 
did not suggest otherwise!)

 To speak to the original post, Model-specific concerns are probably more 
relevant, as (to your point) is the condition of the specific boat. Really, 
they are all 'old'.

Has blistering been an issue specific to any C production periods?   Windstar 
(1985)  has had half-dozen tiny ones pop up, but nothing major.  (Again, To 
your point - my first boat, 1972 vintage, had none, ever, though it had some 
period-correct soggy deck coring - easily repaired in a boat with no hull liner)

Dave 



Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2016 22:02:32 -0400
From: "Joe Della Barba" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Possible upgrade to a C 36
Message-ID: <002001d1ff3d$e933a960$bb9afc20$@dellabarba.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I would disagree. C has been through enough changes that I would not say they 
have a graph of quality heading only upwards*. It would not take long to find 
older boat X better than newer boat Y. Besides for that, the boats are old 
enough to have had very different lives.



* remember that as of 1970, blisters were a thing that had not yet happened



Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com 

Coquina

C 35 MK I

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Re: Stus-List Hard starting

[Dave via CnC-List]

Second that, load test the battery first for sure, check the cables.  
I had two high resistance grounds that caused issues.  One, a stud on the back 
of a gauge, the other, the main engine harness ground, a bolt below the 
starter.  Disassemble, clean, grease.No problems since.
The battery cables themselves were grounded to the engine via the large 
transmission bolts.  I ended up installing a ground bus and sorting/organizing 
and labelling the lot so I know what's where, that it's good, and can be easily 
inspected.  

Dave 

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2016 07:47:34 -0400
From: Joel Aronson 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard starting
Message-ID:
   

Re: Stus-List Grand adventure/ long distance sailing in a C

[Dave via CnC-List]

Antoine - I have resisted joining this thread, but I have read the account of 
your ambitious and impressive trip.  
Would be very interesting in your view of what 'very well prepared' means in 
this context.
The tadoussac - la pocatiere area is certainly impressive for its cold and 
wind. 

Dave Syer (33-2)

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2016 20:23:28 -0400
From: Antoine Rose 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Grand adventure/ long distance sailing in a C
Message-ID: <4b78138e-78b3-4b6a-83a1-f45dc69c1...@videotron.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

As some other as indicated, I did it (twice) on my C 30-1 (1973). And I?m 
still on the list, even if I don?t intervene much.
2008 Montr?al - Quebec city - Gasp? - Faial (Azores) - Brest (France) - La 
Rochelle (France)
2010 Rochefort (France) - Azores - Nova Scotia - Gasp? - Qu?bec (singlehanded 
this time)

C can do it but it need a WELL prepared boat to do it. The boat never scared 
me. I hope to do it again before I?m getting too old.

I would be happy to answer any question you might have. And yes, the 
St-Lawrence river and gulf can be cold at the beginning of the summer. The 
worst part is Tadoussac, where the Saguenay river meets the St-Lawrence.
But I believe Lake Superior is not specially warm either.

Cheers
Antoine
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Re: Stus-List Oddball 33-2 deck fitting

[Dave via CnC-List]

Visited the boat today and saw that the fittings were made in NZ by RC Marine, 
once, along with Ronstan, a division of the long-gone Fortuna (apparently not) 
corporation.   These deck fills look an awful lot like those currently offered 
by Forespar, and I have an inquiry in with them.   Maybe they acquired the 
line/tooling.

Dave.


Message: 1
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2016 19:01:05 +
From: Bradley Lumgair 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Odball 33-2 deck fitting
Message-ID:
   
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Paul is correct, mine have NZ on them and they are in fact a metric size of 
some sort. I have taken the threaded plug all over town to find something to 
fit with no luck. Will be changing my deck fitting this winter. (its cheaper 
than buying the rubber cone fitting) Our marina has the rubber cone fitting 
that works well enough for now (just keep your mouth shut)
Brad
"Pulse"
1985 33-2
Lake Huron

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Re: Stus-List 33-2 heater hose. (water heater)

[Dave via CnC-List]

Thanks - Josh, looks like the same stuff, or very similar.   will pursue Eaton 
hose distributors here.   
Doug, it is indeed similar to heater hose, except it has an additional outer 
jacket extruded over it.   The black inner part is identical to automotive 
heater hose, dimensionally, and it appears, in terms of construction also.   
Looks like C used the good stuff, and it hadn't failed yet, so I suppose it 
paid off.   Looking to replace to re route the hoses a bit, and as part of my 
general re-hosing.   

Thanks.  

Dave.  


Message: 2
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2016 20:00:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: svpegasu...@gmail.com 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 heater hose. (water heater)
Message-ID: <000f4242.0abe78e047a73...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"







   Looks like standard automotive heater hose.?
   Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 #4just west of Ballard, WA.



Message: 1
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2016 02:23:19 +
From: Josh Muckley 
To: "C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 heater hose. (water heater)
Message-ID:
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Looks like hose we use at work.  We call it boston marathon but I think the
real name is boston marathoner made by eaton.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Aug 10, 2016 9:54 PM, "Dave Syer via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi all,Any idea what this hose is?   Similar to yer basic heater hose,
> but with an extra jacket.   Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Dave


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Re: Stus-List Filling stripped screw holes in fiberglass +

[Dave via CnC-List]

Agreed with Fred, first choice machine screws, second larger, and third and 
fourth - bodywork clips or heavily glass-filled epoxy.
I did a bunch of the latter this season and found that drilling the (new) holes 
then 'tapping' with a modified wood screw worked well.By modified I mean 
grinding a flat on one side at the pointed end. This provides a cutting edge of 
sorts and provides clearance for waste to exit.  

Dave - 33-2 windstar (currently moored at aquatic park Toronto, awaiting 
tonight's wind shift). 



Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2016 20:59:02 +
From: Josh Muckley 
To: "C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Filling stripped screw holes in fiberglass +
   core
Message-ID:
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I would try larger screws first.  If you can get to the back then machine
screws and nylocks might be an upgrade.  I wouldn't hesitate to use west
system epoxy but would lean towards using the west system 5 minute g/flex
product.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Aug 9, 2016 4:46 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I need to are rebed some hardware that is screwed in to the cabin, and
> several screw holes are stripped.?  I'm going to use butyl for the
> hardware, but is epoxy the best thing to fill the screw holes?  Does it
> need to be West, or is any waterproof hardware store epoxy sufficient?
> 
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
> 
> ___

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Re: Stus-List fiberglass sheet

[Dave via CnC-List]

Joe - not so hard to make your own.  You could layout on any flat surface using 
waxed paper as a release liner.  See blog link below

Dave

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2015/12/making-fibreglass-parts.html?m=1



> 
>> On Aug 9, 2016, at 2:27 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Anyone know a good source for flat fiberglass sheets/rectangular pieces?
>> I have a few fixes that would be much easier that way than trying to smooth 
>> out my own DIY pieces.
>> Thanks!
>> Joe
>> Coquina
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Re: Stus-List C 33 Main Sail Sheave

[Dave via CnC-List]

Hi John.  My sheaves had worn bushings, and these were easily replaced with 
stock bushings from Brafasco (less than $20).  In the 33-2 you unbolt the cap 
on the masthead, and lift out the axle with the topping lift and main halyard 
sheaves.  I suppose it could be done with the mast up, but I would not want to 
try.
The sheaves are aluminum with pressed in bronze bushings.  Heat them in the 
oven (or bbq if your wife is home) and press out the bushings.  Heat the 
aluminum again and press in the (cold) replacement.  I did all 5 at once and 
now grease them annually when the mast is out.  





--

Message: 8
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2016 12:14:26 + (UTC)
From: John McKay 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 33 Main Sail Sheave
Message-ID:
   <1728044898.13436512.1470744866626.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I wanted to replace the sheaves on Enterprise. I was advised by Klacko Spar who 
manufactured the mast to send them the old sheaves. They told me C did not 
necessarily use the same sheave on a particular mast. More what every they had 
on hand at the time.
I think it would be difficult to change without taking the mast down. I had to 
move halyards last year and did it with the mast up and it was all by feeling 
because I could not get high enough in the bosun's chair.
John on Enterprise


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Stus-List Emergency tiller & wrenches. Where? 33-2 and others

[Dave via CnC-List]

Apologies - my post is not at all clear.

 I am wondering where others cleverly stow the tiller and its tools.When I 
got mine it was buried in the cockpit locker, with rusting wrenches Masking 
taped to the arm.  
I fastened the wrenches with small cable ties and tied the lot to the straps 
which secure the fuel tank.  At least I can find it quickly, assuming it has 
not untied itself.
I would rather have it secured in an easy to access location (I have some 
thoughts) and would like it to be tool-less.  (Have not thought about that yet.)

Am interested in your tiller experience 'under fire'.

Dave



Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2016 09:13:50 -0400
From: David 
To: CNC CNC 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Emergency tiller & wrenches. Where? 33-2 and
   others
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Dave,

I have actually used my emergency tiller...what exactly is your question...?

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2016 20:14:10 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Emergency tiller & wrenches.   Where?  33-2 and others
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: syerd...@gmail.com
> 
> This has bugged me since I bought the boat.  The wrenches are currently 
> cable-tied to the tiller and the tiller is tied to the hold down straps on 
> the fuel tank.   Not a fan really, and I don't like needing tools fo

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Stus-List (no subject)

[Dave via CnC-List]

A life in the connector biz tells me to look at military or heavy industry.  
Check out brad Harrison 2 or 3 pin mini series. 
Example 

http://www.bradharrisonsales.com/mc_2-6p_stoow_us.htm


If I had a deck stepped mast in salt water this is what I would use, and 
probably rather than a chassis mount connector On deck I would wire a female 
pigtail thru a cable gland fixed to the deck.  (On a boat like a C anyway - 
easier.  On a bluewater cruiser I would terminate inside an enclosure). Find a 
friend in the electrical field.  
My 33-2 has a keel stepped mast and I used a terminal block under the setee.  
The boat wiring has ring  terminals left attached to the block, and the mast 
wiring (mast removed spring and fall) has flanged fork terminals.  Easy to 
remove but won't fall off if the Terminal screw loosens.  

Dave



Message: 2
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2016 17:36:50 -0300
From: Rick Taillieu 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Two Prong DC outlet
Message-ID: <008001d1e9d8$ef457790$cdd066b0$@ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

Mark,

I have fought with the mast wiring problem on my 25 ever since I bought it
in 1999. I have three cables coming from the mast, VHF coax, mast lights and
wind instruments.
Because it is deck stepped there are only a few products that can be used
and none of the ones I tried worked for more than a couple years before the
contacts corroded beyond cleaning or the crew stepped on the connector while
racing.  I also got rid of the original C wiring leading into the deck and
sealed off that leak point into the core.
Finally a couple years ago I saw these
https://www.bluesea.com/products/1003/CableClam_1.40in and the problem was
solved.
In my future boat anything removable that needs to go through the deck will
have one of these.

Rick Tai
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Re: Stus-List Practical installation of ACR/VSR

[Dave via CnC-List]

Lol... Agreed Steve but in this case i tend to think of it as the lawyer state 
rather than nanny state.  (WAs so boggled by this sort of thing at one point 
that I put a label on my 6" bench vise that says 'caution - do not eat'. ). 
I don't think fusing the main house bank cable is such a terrible idea, ( over 
the years I have been occasionally startled by big sparks when wrenching, 
troubleshooting or using a steel fish tape - and not always carelessly) to your 
point though, marinas are not exactly plagued by unfused boats spontaneously 
combusting...

Dave




Message: 8
Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2016 09:30:17 -0400
From: "S Thomas" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Practical installation of ACR/VSR
Message-ID: <5DFB0BC1ADCB424C8002E769FBC91562@mordor>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

The nanny state invading our sailboats. 
"...connections of less than 7 inches..."  Really?

I don't see the need for fuses in the cables between the batteries and the 
selector switch. There is a difference between careful and paranoid. 

The U.S. coast guard inspected a friend of mine's sailboat, and among other 
things, told him that he was required to have nylon lock nuts on his lead 
battery post connectors. 

Good grief. 

Steve Thomas
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Re: Stus-List Practical installation of ACR/VSR

[Dave via CnC-List]

Thanks For the thorough reply Tim, valuable and extensive detail there, and 
some food for thought.  I do understand the operation of the acr and the 
goals/theory of overcurrent protection, as well as voltage drop/cable ampacity 
more than my already-too-long post might infer. 
 Thanks for the -qualified - validation of the approach.Did not know the 
abyc 7" rule, nor that fusing the house bank is now 'code'.  (Amazing that it 
wasn't...).   I will review the abyc standards on this whole area, and also 
measure the battery to destination drop in the existing system.  This will tell 
me the margin in which my question exists.   Regardless, Am going to rethink, 
incorporate, and document standards-compliant circuit protection as well, to 
your point, this only makes sense.   Since this means recabling the house bank 
I will oversize the cable anyway, assuring that he extra few feet of cable are 
immaterial, drop-wise.A slippery slope as usual but a good one.
great stuff, very helpful,  and thanks again for taking the time.

Dave.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 10, 2016, at 8:42 AM, Tim Goodyear  wrote:
> 
> Hi Dave,
> 
> Your ACR doesn't function as you describe; it is just a relay, with no 
> charging intelligence built in except that it will only close when it senses 
> charging (a voltage above a certain level for a certain time) on one or both 
> battery banks.  That shouldn't matter too much if both banks are the same 
> battery chemistry and the same age, but they will both "see" the same voltage 
> (minus wiring voltage drops) when the relay is closed, so make sure it's 
> appropriate.
> 
> You are heading in the right direction on voltage drops and overcurrent 
> protection (fuses), but voltage is crucial to battery charging and you don't 
> want to lose your boat to an electrical fire for the sake of a couple of 
> fuses...
> 
> Voltage drop will depend on current (how big is your alternator / battery 
> charger), wire length (total of positive and negative lengths) and wire size 
> - if it's going to be longer than recommended, increase the size of the wire. 
>  Blue Sea Systems probably have a calculator on their site or you can search 
> for ABYC voltage drop tables.
> 
> Under ABYC standards, connections of less than 7" do not need to be fuses, 
> neither do engine cranking circuits, but if you don't fuse other circuits you 
> are asking for insurance / survey trouble if things go wrong...  Blue Sea 
> have a great on-battery fuse (MRBF) that you could mount directly on the 
> studs of the ACR without a lot of effort (and now required for your house 
> bank).  You are protecting the wires, not the devices with these fuses, 
> preventing short circuit current from causing them to ignite, so if the ACR 
> wires are a different size than the battery cables you need different fuses.
> 
> https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A
> 
> I hope that helps!
> 
> Tim
> 
> Tim Goodyear
> Ex-35-3
> 
>> On Jul 10, 2016, at 8:17 AM, Syerdave--- via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello all,
>> Wondering about the practical vs the theoretical here.  
>> Am upgrading the DC system, adding a Group 24 dedicated start battery, and 
>> connecting the two group 31 in parallel to double the capacity of what will 
>> become the dedicated house bank.   Am adding a blue sea switch and ACR.
>> FYI - an ACR is a device that upon starting the engine essentially 'chooses' 
>> to top up the start battery fully before allowing the the house bank to be 
>> charged.   
>> Anyway, the manual states that the acr should be connected as close as 
>> possible to the battery (to prevent voltage drop from compromising its 
>> function to any degree) and both of its leads fused based on the wire gauge. 
>>   All makes sense, especially when the batteries are located At a distance 
>> from the switch or ACR.   however
>> The simplest installation is directly adjacent to the switch, not the 
>> battery.  The leads to the ACR would be very short and well protected - less 
>> than a foot.  (The battery cables themselves are not fused!)  In the 33-2, 
>> the distance to battery is still very short - less than eight feet of cable 
>> for sure.
>> 
>> In this situation, I can only see an infinitesimal difference in voltage 
>> drop by locating the ACR a few feet closer to the battery, really, no 
>> meaningful difference.  With a lead length measured in inches the positive 
>> wires to the ACR probably do not need to be fused.   (the ground wire IS 
>> fused, protecting against failure of the device itself.).  
>> 
>> Has anyone got any experience with this that would tell me otherwise?   
>> Thanks!
>> 
>> Dave Syer   33-2
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly 

Re: Stus-List Defiant - 86 C 41

[Dave via CnC-List]

...a really nice boat that should not need any major projects for a while."

I must admit that made me smile also. 

FYI - according to Bristol marine here in Toronto, The 41, 33-2, and 35-3 are 
models susceptible to the sinking mast step syndrome.  Caveat emptor!  (Having 
repaired early onset of same)

Dave Syer
Owner of really nice 33-2 - Windstar



Message: 3
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2016 22:16:00 +
From: Aaron Rouhi 
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard ,
   "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Subject: Re: Stus-List Defiant - 86 C 41
Message-ID:
   

   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

"...a really nice boat that should not need any major projects for a while."


Wouldn't that be nice? My slip neighbor has a much newer boat. His major summer 
project was repairing and varnishing the flag pole... I only wish...

Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD

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Re: Stus-List 33-2 - what's in the fridge?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Thanks Paul, Edd.

My original refrigerAtion unit (nova cool?) is still working so I had not 
planned to  tackle that quite yet. Will research Engels and Adler Barbour.   Is 
the upgrade worthwhile or is this really something to consider once replacement 
is necessary?  

The all in one approach looks very elegant - Paul, do you have a photo of the 
install?  Curious.

And...  Lol ... I guess I have not been whacked in the head quite enough to 
have thought of the single piece hinged lid approach.  What a great idea. 
Thanks!

Dave


--

Message: 4
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2016 18:16:11 +
From: Paul Fountain 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 - what's in the fridge?
Message-ID:
   
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Dave,

We added an all in one refrigeration unit to our 33-2, one of the best upgrades 
yet! Used this unit 
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/waeco-adler-barbour--coolmatic-cooling-conversion-kit--7895881

installed it on the cockpit side of the icebox, had to cut the cockpit bulkhead 
also. The insulation was in good shape, and about 3" thick. Last weekend we 
found ice in some of the water bottles after we left it turned a bit too far 
down.

We also reworked the lid, as I got tired of it hitting me. I removed the hinges 
on the back side, and hinged it in the middle so it folds onto its other half. 
This also means we can remove completely to fill, empty or clean the icebox.

Get Outlook for iOS




On Tue, Jul 5, 2016 at 1:30 PM -0400, "Dave Syer via CnC-List" 
> wrote:

Hi All,
Seems the boat is never "done".I read a recent thread here on older 
iceboxes and the benefit of improved insulation, and wonder about my '85.
As other work gets done, the ice box has moved up the project list a bit.

I replaced the gasket and the manual drain pump, and will need to tighten the 
lid screws to address wear/lid wobble, (might need screw holes filled) and 
replace the rusting and now detached wire basket/shelf inside.  For sure the 
small gap between the two lid sections could be sealed somehow, and I will cut 
a closed-cell foam "blanket" to cover the top.  This should help deal with the 
gap as well as insulate a bit better.   After that, the work gets more invasive 
as the insulated (we hope) cavities are quite difficult to access.

Has anyone tackled a 33-2 ice box?  I am wondering mostly about the amount of 
insulation and whether it was installed effectively.   Any thoughts or advice 
would be much appreciated!

Dave Syer
'85 33-2 Windstar.
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An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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--

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2016 14:33:02 -0400
From: Edd Schillay 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 - what's in the fridge?
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Dave,

I?ve heard a lot of good things about Engel ? it?s what I?m planning on using 
when I redo the refrigeration on the Enterprise.

See: 
http://www.engelcoolers.com/fridge-freezers/shop-by-adventure/rv/scqt-4408f-u1-i
 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 





> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring

[Dave via CnC-List]

Just did this for N2k cables in std small guard.   I drilled with regular has 
bits but centre punched and piloted first (1/8") - slow speed did not work 
well.  Then drilled final hole size (two adjacent for oval) and cleaned up with 
a conical stone on a dremel.

Dave 
Windstar 1985 33-2
> 
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Pedestal wiring (Marek Dziedzic)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2016 11:58:00 -0400
> From: "Marek Dziedzic" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Paul,
> 
> As Fred said, you can try running the wires the other way. I did that for a 
> different chartplotter (Garmin), so the connectors were smaller (about 1/2? 
> if I recall), but I found it easier to run the cable from the pedestal end 
> into the inside of the boat (rather than the other way around).
> 
> With a large connector, you will have to cut an elongated hole, even in a 
> larger diameter guard, because the connector would not bend. 
> 
> Drilling through the SS pedestal guard is a pain. You better have good tools 
> and know how to do that (in one word ? slow). A good hole saw (e.g. Milwaukee 
> bi-metal (https://www.milwaukeetool.ca/accessories/drilling/49-56-9662)) and 
> a tungsten cutter (e.g. 
> https://www.dremel.com/en-ca/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=9901) 
> would be your friends (and a good investment).
> 
> And if you have some wires running through the guard already, be prepared 
> that the holes were drilled without being properly filled with epoxy.
> 
> I would not cut the wires for the depth transducer.
> 
> good luck
> 
> Marek
> 1994 C270 ?Legato?
> Ottawa, ON
> 
> **

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Re: Stus-List Awful Vibration

[Dave via CnC-List]

Tom, 

That's exactly my problem. If the blades are moving freely then that's probably 
not the problem. I'll be checking to see if my gear shift is moving the 
transmission into fully engaged forward tomorrow. If that's the issue I'll 
certainly let you know. If it's not then I'm not sure what to do except call 
the transmission guy again. 

Dave J 
Saltaire 
C 35Mk3 
Bristol, RI 


- Original Message -

From: "Tom Lynch" <thomasmly...@gmail.com> 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "ALAN BERGEN" <trya...@alumni.usc.edu>, davidjaco...@comcast.net 
Sent: Friday, June 17, 2016 1:28:48 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Awful Vibration 

Dave, 

What you are describing is the same thing that is happening on my 1985 33 MKII 
with Yanmar 2GM20. I have a folding martek prop and when I leave my slip the 
blades open (No vibration ) but anytime I slow the boat down like when I'm 
coming back to the marina and I throttle down while still in forward gear the 
blades Close ?? (I'll get a nasty vibration) and the only way to stop the 
vibration is to shift into reverse stop the boat and shift back to forward. 

This is especially cumbersome when out sailing and taking down sails with 
forward momentum and when I run the engine and shift to forward, I'll get the 
nasty vibration, the vibration stops only when I shift to reverse until I 
completely get stopped and then I can shift to forward and no vibration. 

What I was planning to do was send the prop to martec for refurbishing at the 
end of this season; however, now after what I'm reading this thread I'm not so 
sure that is the right solution. When inspecting the prop before launch this 
spring, the blades easily opened and closed by hand. 

I'm now thinking that the problem may be with the shaft spinning to slowly or 
transmission not fully engaged. Sorry that I'm not offering any new solutions 
here but just commiserating. 

Tom Lynch 
Bayfield WI 
IndoIrish 

On Thu, Jun 16, 2016 at 10:48 AM, Dave via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 



Alan, 

My gear shift linkage is totally different with the cable coming in from 
forward of the lever through a bracket. Its pretty obvious that I need only to 
remove the lever rotate it 180 degrees and reattach it to make forward be 
forward again. 

I'm guessing that if the vibration was due to misalignment, engine mounts, 
bearing or bent shaft that the vibration would always be their and not only 
after slowing down. The prop, which is what I thought the issue was, has been 
replaces with a brand new geared prop and since a new prop didn't fix the 
problem that's not it. 

I did find the following on the web; 



My prop opens easily by hand and when the blades are oriented properly the 
lower one will hang down by its own weight. Given that data, I knew with 
absolute certainty that if it spins, it has to open. The condition Bob and Dyk 
are describing happened to me just after I reinstalled the engine after 
rebuilding it and I had not adjusted the linkage properly. I would have to rev 
the engine up around 1500-1800 and it would rumble and abruptly "kerchunk" and 
churn water at the stern. Initially I thought that was the prop opening, but 
knowing how loose the prop was I knew there was no reason for it to be closed 
before that. So I looked at the shaft. When put into gear, it would spin but so 
slowly that there wasn't enough revolution to drive the boat. I pushed on the 
linkage lever on the transmission and wham it fully engaged and the shaft 
started spinning like it should - much faster. I realized the rumbling I heard 
was gears trying to mesh and the kerchunk I had heard was the transmission 
popping into gear, not the prop opening. I adjusted the linakge so now when I 
shift into forward, the boat moves even at low RPMs. 

Dyk, Bob, I don't know how tight a brand new or recently rebuilt prop is 
supposed to be, but a spinning mass generates quite a bit of force. The formula 
for centripetal force is F=mv^2/r with m=mass of object, v=velocity at a 
certain radius, and r= radius. A quick check of the numbers will tell you that 
even at low RPM, there is easily enough force to open your prop. Keep in mind 
that if it is so tight that it won't open, it shouldn't be able to close 
either, so when sailing an open prop should be spinning like mad and you can 
hear and feel that. If you can assure yourself that the prop is opening and 
closing, the only other variable in the equation is the RPM of the shaft. I can 
only speak from my own experience and what worked for me but there is no reason 
I can think of for a clean, properly adjusted prop to not open. It has been 
designed to open when it revolves. Good luck! 



Dyk Luben 

unregistered posted 09-13-2002 02:36 PM 

 

I need to follow up on my propeller situation. After further study, I found 
that indeed the propeller shaft was spinning too slowly. It was a prob

Re: Stus-List Awful Vibration

[Dave via CnC-List]

Alan, 

My gear shift linkage is totally different with the cable coming in from 
forward of the lever through a bracket. Its pretty obvious that I need only to 
remove the lever rotate it 180 degrees and reattach it to make forward be 
forward again. 

I'm guessing that if the vibration was due to misalignment, engine mounts, 
bearing or bent shaft that the vibration would always be their and not only 
after slowing down. The prop, which is what I thought the issue was, has been 
replaces with a brand new geared prop and since a new prop didn't fix the 
problem that's not it. 

I did find the following on the web; 



My prop opens easily by hand and when the blades are oriented properly the 
lower one will hang down by its own weight. Given that data, I knew with 
absolute certainty that if it spins, it has to open. The condition Bob and Dyk 
are describing happened to me just after I reinstalled the engine after 
rebuilding it and I had not adjusted the linkage properly. I would have to rev 
the engine up around 1500-1800 and it would rumble and abruptly "kerchunk" and 
churn water at the stern. Initially I thought that was the prop opening, but 
knowing how loose the prop was I knew there was no reason for it to be closed 
before that. So I looked at the shaft. When put into gear, it would spin but so 
slowly that there wasn't enough revolution to drive the boat. I pushed on the 
linkage lever on the transmission and wham it fully engaged and the shaft 
started spinning like it should - much faster. I realized the rumbling I heard 
was gears trying to mesh and the kerchunk I had heard was the transmission 
popping into gear, not the prop opening. I adjusted the linakge so now when I 
shift into forward, the boat moves even at low RPMs. 

Dyk, Bob, I don't know how tight a brand new or recently rebuilt prop is 
supposed to be, but a spinning mass generates quite a bit of force. The formula 
for centripetal force is F=mv^2/r with m=mass of object, v=velocity at a 
certain radius, and r= radius. A quick check of the numbers will tell you that 
even at low RPM, there is easily enough force to open your prop. Keep in mind 
that if it is so tight that it won't open, it shouldn't be able to close 
either, so when sailing an open prop should be spinning like mad and you can 
hear and feel that. If you can assure yourself that the prop is opening and 
closing, the only other variable in the equation is the RPM of the shaft. I can 
only speak from my own experience and what worked for me but there is no reason 
I can think of for a clean, properly adjusted prop to not open. It has been 
designed to open when it revolves. Good luck! 



Dyk Luben 

unregistered posted 09-13-2002 02:36 PM 

 

I need to follow up on my propeller situation. After further study, I found 
that indeed the propeller shaft was spinning too slowly. It was a problem in 
what I called the transmission, but what the professionals call the reversing 
gear. The clutch was worn out and no amount of linkage adjustment would correct 
it. I had a new clutch and seals installed by Mack Boring, and it works 
perfectly now. So if anyone assumes that their propeller is not opening 
correctly, don't go buy a new prop like I did, but check first that the clutch 
is fully engaging 

Since I had the transmission rebuilt it's probably not the transmission itself 
but may be that the shift lever throw isn't long enough and its not fully 
engaging. So, reversing the lever arm and checking to see if the transmission 
is fully engaging (by shifting it into gear at the transmission) is my next 
step. 

By the way, last night was the first time the sails were hoisted and the boat 
sailed and we managed to win line honors and a second place finish against 
others for whom its their 3rd race. 

Dave J 
Saltaire 
C 35Mk3 
Bristol, RI 
- Original Message -

From: "ALAN BERGEN"  
To: davidjaco...@comcast.net 
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2016 10:50:10 PM 
Subject: Awful Vibration 

Dave: 

This is how the shift cable linkage should look. The vibration could be: prop 
out of balance, bad engine mounts, bad cutlass bearing, bent shaft, prop blades 
not opening all the way. 

I replaced my folding, two blade Gori prop with a three blade Maxi prop. 
Expensive, but well worth it. No vibration and good stopping action in reverse. 

My engine is a 3GM f (20 hp). 

Alan Bergen 
35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 

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Stus-List Awful vibration

[Dave via CnC-List]

I purchased my boat, a 1984 35Mk3 three years ago. The first season the boat 
would vibrate badly when I'd slow down under power. I'd put it in reverse, 
throw it into forward (ouch) and things would be fine. The blades always opened 
initially when I motored off the mooring but if I slowed down the flow over the 
blades exceeded the centripetal force and folded one of the blades and not the 
other . So, that winter I sent the 2 bladed prop back to Martek to have it 
rebuilt. They said the blades were so badly oxidized that they couldn't weld 
them to build up the stops so, they replaced the blades with another pair 
(used) they had available. To be sure the problem was fixed I also had the cone 
clutch in the transmission replaced. Last summer the only thing that changed 
was that the boat now moved forward when the lever was pulled back to reverse 
and visa versa. The vibration still happened under the same scenarios. Having 
had the blades replaced and the transmission rebuilt there was no way to tell 
whether it was that the blades were the opposite hand as what I had previously 
or if the transmission was done incorrectly. 

This spring I purchased a 2 blade Flexfold geared prop and guess what, the 
vibration problem is still there and forward and reverse are still, yep 
reversed. So, I know that the direction issue is the transmission and that is 
easily fixed by rotating the linkage arm. But, I'm totally baffled as to why 
the vibration problem has not been resolved. 

So, if anyone has any suggestions or ideas they would be greatly appreciated. 

Dave J 
Saltaire 
C 35Mk3 
Bristol, RI 
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Re: Stus-List Starting Problem

[Dave via CnC-List]

Josh, 

What's the advantage of adding an auxiliary solenoid to the starting circuit? 

Dave J 
Saltaire 
C 35Mk3 
Bristol, RI 
- Original Message -

From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List"  
To: "C List"  
Cc: "Josh Muckley"  
Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 8:20:33 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting Problem 



I made a video that walks through the starting circuit on my yanmar. Its pretty 
generic, maybe it will help. 

https://youtu.be/Mp2cGDa1VOU 


Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+ 
Solomons, MD 
On Jun 5, 2016 11:13 PM, "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> wrote: 



Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need to get 
done. 

Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was running 
smoothly. Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from turning the 
key. 


Batteries seem fine. Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to the 
radio when trying to turn over the engine. 

I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few hours 
- wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start. That day I 
easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the engine running 
for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?). 

That was my first check today - but it was attached. Pulled it off to clean 
contact but no effect. 


I figure there are 3 possibilities 

1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over 

2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of noise or 
power dip indicating that something was seized 

3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what I 
presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as well. 
Nothing obviously disconnected 


I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure out 
what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix! 


Any advice is appreciated. I presume is the key is working them I'd get a 
voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it 
suggests either 1 or 3. Where should I see that? 

I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition key - 
maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed 

Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to spin the 
starter/solenoid directly? 


The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP 


Thanks in advance for the advice, 

Mark 

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. 
- George Santayana 


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Re: Stus-List Kanzaki Transmission in forward or reverse

[Dave via CnC-List]

Thanks Russ -  Makes sense, and yes, once explained and I think for a moment, 
it seems crazy that the clutch itself would be dependent on or even subject to 
the prop's thrust load.  So the question of 'why' remains one of life's 
mysteries

Dave

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 09 Jun 2016 19:01:13 -0700
From: Russ & Melody 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Kanzaki Transmission in forward or reverse
Message-ID:
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"


Hi Dave,

For most marine gearboxes the output flange 
bearing is a thrust bearing. There to take up the shaft thrust fore and aft.
Try to move that output flange forward or back, 
it will seem like it's stuck fast. 

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Re: Stus-List Starting Problem

[Dave via CnC-List]

Your description has me 90% certain you have a bad ground from the wiring 
harness to the engine.  On my 2gm this was a large ring terminal attached to or 
above the stArter iirc.  Your multimeter may fool you as you are getting some 
conductivity.  Inspect, Clean/de oxidize that grounding point first, save 
yourself some time. 
Note - since you are near the 12v feed to the starter, be careful when you 
work...
Dave.


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2016 15:42:53 -0300
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting Problem
Message-ID: <914ac484-43d2-9fd4-fb72-4fe87cccf...@accesswave.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed


Thanks for all the feedback.

I'll me digging out my multimeter and heading down to the boat this 
weekend.  I now realize that I don't think the engine vent fan turned on 
when I turned the key (my lights on the panel are rather intermittent 
and my engine overheat buzzer has never worked, plus the tach is 
intermittent -- so good chance that the wiring harness is the culprit).

I'll check the fuses on the engine and see if I can find the ground wires.

No glow plug to deal with.

I've also been advised to check the "neutral kill swtich" (stops you 
from starting engine in gear) and the "oil pressure kill switch" - not 
sure where those are so I'll have to look at the engine manual.

I'll see what I find and come back with more details if it's not working

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Stus-List 33-2 stock breaker ratings?

[Dave via CnC-List]

At the boat and would like to avoid taking apart  the panel to find out... 
Anyone know the trip ratings of the stockvhf and instrument breakers?  Tx!
Dave

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Dropping the Rudder

[Dave via CnC-List]

Graham.
If you could post photos of your rudder rebuild I'd appreciate that. I'm 
guessing it's similar to the 37 but would like to be sure.
Thanks,
Dave J
Saltaire
CC35 MK3
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: Graham Collins via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Graham Collins 
Sent: Thu, 26 May 2016 02:09:24 - (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dropping the Rudder

Hi Chris

You say re-core it, do you intend to replace all the foam (and new 
skins), or do the cut open, scoop out saturated foam, refill?

I can shoot you some pics of my rudder interior if you want.

Where in Halifax are you?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11
BBYC / Waeg - Halifax, NS

On 2016-05-25 9:57 AM, Christian Tirtirau via CnC-List wrote:
> I'm planning to drop the rudder on my 37 and re-core it with foam, and was 
> wondering what I should look for and expect when doing this operation? What 
> are the steps involved and what challenges have other listers encountered?
>
> Chris
> C 37 Northern Light
> Halifax
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On May 24, 2016, at 11:19 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>>
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
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>>
>> Today's Topics:
>>
>>1. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (Sam Wheeler)
>>2. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Kevin Driscoll)
>>3. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (randy.staff...@comcast.net)
>>4. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (Sam Wheeler)
>>5. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Jake Brodersen)
>>6. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Dave)
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 15:38:50 -0700
>> From: Sam Wheeler 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Foil Feed Funnel
>> Message-ID:
>> 

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[Dave via CnC-List]

Ryan.
Your results look great. How many hours would you guess you put into the paint 
job?
Dave J
Saltaire
CC35 MK3
Bristol, RI

- Original Message -
From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle 
Sent: Thu, 26 May 2016 15:46:02 - (UTC)
Subject: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux 
Brightside/Interlux Prekote

Hey all,

I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time
boat painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux
Brightside and Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes
during this process.  I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my
expense, but hopefully this post will save other first-time painters some
grief.

When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.
The hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful
color, but I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush
marks, and it had been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines
and fenders.

This was the state of her hull before:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA

I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat -
crawling around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat
grime.  So when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was
excited to work outside.

I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much...
but more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from
defender.com for a total of $351.90 before shipping.

When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and
the line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.

Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I got
to work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding is
the key to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.

I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and Decker
orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint disappear,
then I moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole hull.  I
then wiped down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333 brushing
liquid

Sanded:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM

I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right
off.

Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of
Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids
were all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint
and I was also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60
degrees was too cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and
mixed up the paint as best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.

Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old
tee shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one
coat of primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job
filling imperfections.

Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have
plenty of experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought,
"No biggie.  I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.

As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.
 "Oh yeah.  Boat paint."

Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went home
and used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of elbow
grease, this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.

I then waited a day for the primer on the boat to dry.

The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this
post.  I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth
as possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer
completely away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going
to apply another coat.

I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and
rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.

The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth
finish, and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag.

Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been
confused by the phrase "roll and tip".  This makes it sound way more
complicated than it is.  The definition, as far as I know, of the word
"tip" has nothing to do with what you actually do.  For the amateurs out
there, I think the process could be more clearly described as "roll and
brush".

This is the best YouTube video I've found of how to roll and tip/brush:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-SGcSlNmoo

The helpful guys at my local West Marine told me to paint a full 

Stus-List (no subject)

[Dave via CnC-List]

Mine has shims in the mast step to adjust the height.  As another posted, a 
fully tensioned rig  may make it Impossible to align the holes.  


Subject: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2


When I was rigging my new to me 33-2 we couldn't locate one of the the mast 
collar tangs so I had a friend fabricate a duplicate. Both are now misaligned 
and the holes are about 1/4 inch too high to slip the bolt in (the boat is 
fully rigged). My friends have different opinions on this.  One says release 
the rigging and the tangs will slightly deform the cabin top when we reset the 
mast. Another days remake the tangs so the bolts line up with jokes in the mast 
when it's fully rigged. Looking for help from you folks.





Cheers,

Doug

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 

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Re: Stus-List Throttle Cable Adjustment

[Dave via CnC-List]

Bingo, saddle clamp in locker.  Couldn't believe it when I first saw it, seems 
crude.  Mine is fairly tight and always left me wondering if two (each less 
tight) would be preferable.  Can't help thinking there's got to be a better 
way

Dave



Message: 7
Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 17:31:12 -0300
From: 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Throttle Cable Adjustment
Message-ID: <431C9A049C644D9BB29E584397E1E21F@T60>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

There should be a saddle clamp on the throttle cable inside the STBD cockpit 
locker, near the companionway. Tighten it down to provide more resistance in 
the cable. I have seen several C 33ii boats with this and I know the tartan 
35 has the same config. I suspect this was an Edson solution.


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Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Dave via CnC-List]

For the record, my comments on lapping of the mating surface apply to the 
kanzaki box that is typical with the Yanmar 20gm.  

As to the question of adjustment - for sure verify the basics are within spec 
first - oil, play in controls, etc.  If however the adjustment is used to cheat 
- like putting extra pressure on the mechanism- then obviously there is another 
issue, and it Will eventually bite you.  Came too close to that myself while 
procrastinating on the gearbox repair

Dave




Message: 3
Date: Wed, 11 May 2016 22:22:06 -0400
From: Brian Davis 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?
Message-ID:
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I think you should try minor adjustments 1st. Then, if you need to open the
trany cover and move the shaft while in neutral and inspect the oil level.

I tested mine today after I rebuilt it and installed. A couple minor
adjusts in the reverse band nut and one small one to the forward.  She
seems to run great and my reverse is now engaging when I hold it firm. I
had taken pics and saved all my notes and will share soon.

Good luck.
On May 11, 2016 10:07 PM, "Ainslie via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> My 35-3 has the same issue. The PO advised me about it, and we
> experienced it a bit while sailing her home last fall. Launched and sailed
> today and it was knocking a little more than last fall. But I recall
> someone on the list said to make sure the shifter lever is hard ahead. Mine
> wasn?t. When I held the lever there, no knocking at all through the rpm
> range. Do you think I can adjust the cable or levers to hold the shifter
> firmly in Fwd, or am I still looking at lapping the cones? The bungee cord
> was my friend today!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jason Ainslie, Spirit
> 
> C 35-3
> 
> Bayfield, ON
> 
> 
> --
> 
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Andrew
> Means via CnC-List
> *Sent:* May-11-16 2:56 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Andrew Means
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?
> 
> 
> 
> Guys this is fantastic information (and hopefully not too expensive)!
> Thanks to everybody for all the info. If I end up doing the work to remove
> the transmission I'll do my best to document the process for posterity.
> 
> 
> On May 10, 2016, at
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Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?

[Dave via CnC-List]

I replied earlier in haste, but another clue here is the forward-reverse thing 
as well as the low rpm banging only.  
The shifter moves a bronze clutch back and forth, this has a conical surface on 
each each end that mates with one mating female cone for forward,  and the 
other mating female cone for reverse.In neutral, the conical clutch sits 
between both and engages neither.  Forward is used a lot more, therefore it 
glazes first.  
As to rpm- these boats do not have thrust bearings so the prop thrust pushes 
forward on the engine/trans and ultimately the mounts.   It does so via the 
trans, so the thrust overcomes the slip at a certain point and the banging 
stops.
Before long it will slip irrespective of rpm, and get so bad that you will 
think the strut will be sheared off the hull.  
Per instructions in the internet I used valve lapping compound.  Did not 
rebuild the gearbox, only lapped the cones.  the halves use no gaskets, just 
silicone.  
I used a punch to mark the orientation of the cone and any other parts and was 
very careful to clean any residual lapping compound out of the transmission.  
Worked perfectly.  
Make sure you secure the prop shaft so it can't fall out.


Dave.

Date: Sun, 8 May 2016 15:40:53 -0700
From: Andrew Means 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Soft thumping/banging when in gear at low-rpm?
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Boat: 1977 C 34
Engine: Yanmar 3GM30 (F)
Prop: 3 Blade Max Prop

Recently I noticed that when engaged in forward-drive, at low RPM, it almost 
feels like something is banging against the bottom of the hull, like a piece of 
kelp or rope tangled in the prop. Once the RPMs get above 1400 or so the 
roughness goes away completely and everything feels very smooth.

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Re: Stus-List Selling The Office

[Dave via CnC-List]

Joel, 

Congrats. Although we've never met face to face I've appreciated and put to use 
much of the wisdom you've shared with the group and only hope it does indeed 
continue. 

Best Wishes, 
Dave 
Saltaire 
C 35 MK3 
Bristol, RI 

- Original Message -

From: "Joel Aronson via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Joel Aronson"  
Sent: Friday, May 6, 2016 11:49:18 AM 
Subject: Stus-List Selling The Office 

Tomorrow I am selling The Office. (I'm doing the A2B on the Hylas). 

We all know the saying about the 2 happiest days in a boat owner's life. For 
me, its not true. 

First, I want to thank everyone who has provided advise, support and 
friendship. You are an amazing group of giving, non-judgmental and 
knowledgeable sailors, marine electricians, mechanics and boat owners! Thank 
you! Second, like Danny, Tim and others, I plan to stick around. 

I went from being a guy who sails to a sailor while owning The Office. 
Annapolis to Bermuda, Annapolis Newport, hundreds of day sails etc. I learned a 
tremendous amount about boat systems - with your help. I've made friends here 
and raced with some of you. 

The new owner will be moving the boat to the Hudson. I'm confident he will take 
good care of her, and I may even get to race on her occasionally. Still, its 
tough to let her go. 

-- 
Joel 
35/3 
The Office 
Annapolis 
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List Short Genoa Track on 35-III

[Dave via CnC-List]

Not in the two years I've owned and raced the boat. Perhaps if I had a blade. 

Dave 
Saltaire 
C 35 MK3 
Bristol, RI 


- Original Message -

From: "Doug Allardyce via CnC-List"  
To: "CnC- List"  
Cc: "Doug Allardyce"  
Sent: Friday, April 29, 2016 10:29:43 AM 
Subject: Stus-List Short Genoa Track on 35-III 

Just wondering if anyone is using the short Genoa tracks just forward of the 
primary winches on the 35-III. 

Doug Allardyce 
C 35-III 
Bullet 
Detroit 
_/)~~~_/) 


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Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue

[Dave via CnC-List]

Can't find my as of yet uninstalled replacement, but I believe it is a beckson 
siphon-Mate

http://www.beckson.com/109PC.html

Dave.

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 18, 2016, at 12:57 PM, davidjaco...@comcast.net wrote:
> 
> Any idea where it's available from. I need to replace mine and the ones I 
> find are all too long.
> 
> Dave J
> "Saltaire"
> C 35 MK 3
> 
> Bristol, RI
> 
> From: "Dave via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "Dave" <syerd...@gmail.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 12:47:00 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue
> 
> The manual pump is original. Still available.  
> 
> Dave 33-2 windstar
> 
> 
> Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2016 11:22:22 -0300
> From: <amira...@bellaliant.net>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue
> Message-ID: <A9282C22A5E7494BBF1FC39BFCE7E419@T60>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> My C7C33ii has a small manually operated pump attached to the cooler drain 
> and can be pumped into the galley sink.  I have no idea if this is original 
> or was installed by a PO.
> 
> As for the head, do you mean the sink won?t drain or the head itself?
> 
> Mike Amirault
> C Lovely Cruise
> SMSC NS.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
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> are greatly appreciated!
> 
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Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue

[Dave via CnC-List]

The manual pump is original. Still available.  

Dave 33-2 windstar


Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2016 11:22:22 -0300
From: 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

My C7C33ii has a small manually operated pump attached to the cooler drain and 
can be pumped into the galley sink.  I have no idea if this is original or was 
installed by a PO.

As for the head, do you mean the sink won?t drain or the head itself?

Mike Amirault
C Lovely Cruise
SMSC NS.

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Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails

[Dave via CnC-List]

Can someone post a photo of their C with stainless grab rails? 

Thanx, 
Dave 
C MK3 
Saltaire 
Bristol, RI 

- Original Message -

From: "Ken Heaton via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Ken Heaton"  
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 9:49:09 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails 

Go sailing? 

;-) 

Ken H. 

On 18 March 2016 at 09:36, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 





I agree with Dwight. 



What would you do with all your spare time each Spring if you didn’t have teak 
handrails to sand and refinish? 



From: CnC-List [mailto: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2016 9:41 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stainless grab rails 




teak handrails are better, they just look right on a classic Cuthhbertson 
design 





Dwight Veinot 


C 35 MKII, Alianna 


Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS 


d.ve...@bellaliant.net 








On Thu, Mar 17, 2016 at 3:19 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 


I was shopping in Holland Marine in the Toronto area a couple of weeks back and 
noticed they had stainless handrails in stock, have you tried them? They do 
carry some C parts and may have another suggestion. There's also a company in 
Port Huron who made stainless parts for C back in the day, I think someone 
mentioned them in a post regarding swim ladders. 


Brad 


"Pulse" C 33 MkII 


Lake Huron 



I'd rather be sailing 






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Re: Stus-List Subject: Low Viscosity Epoxy

[Dave via CnC-List]

Canada composites in Mississauga - ask for JP - you will get great advice, ship 
within Canada. Busy place, they turn inventory fairly frequently.  

Dave

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sam Salter 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2016 12:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sam Salter 
Subject: Stus-List Low Viscosity Epoxy

Where do you guys get the very low viscosity resin that soaks into wood end 
grain?

Thanks

sam :-)

C 26 Liquorice

Ghost Lake A

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Re: Stus-List Window Replacement

[Dave via CnC-List]

Thanks Fred, Dave and everyone else who provided insights from when they dealt 
with these same issues. Much appreciated
Dave
Saltaire
C 33 Mk3
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net>
Sent: Tue, 01 Mar 2016 17:08:34 - (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Window Replacement

Dave — I got my old fixed windows (redone by the previous owner with 1/4” 
acrylic and Plexus adhesive) out last weekend.  I tried a carbide cutting blade 
on my Fein Multicaster oscillating tool from inside the cabin to try to cut the 
Plexus out; the blade was shot after about two inches… the Plexus is very tough 
stuff.  The thing I found that worked best was a sharp chisel from inside the 
cabin; the Plexus is a bit brittle, and once you break part of the bond, you 
can work your way around and get the windows out fairly easily.

I then used the chisel to get as much of the old adhesive out as I could.  Due 
again to the brittleness of the Plexus, this turned out to be the best option.  
I then used the triangular sanding pads on the Fein to clean up the surface.  
I’ll even things out with 3M filler and sand again to smooth and flat before 
getting out the VHB tape and Dow 795; I’m going to try that out this time, 
using the proper 3/8” CAST acrylic.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Mar 1, 2016, at 7:45 AM, Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> In my window replacement project I've removed the old windows, most of the 
> old adhesive, done a fair degree of damage to the gel coat and created one 
> small chip in the surrounding fiberglass. There is a layer of old adhesive 
> (brown) between the two windows (and a section where the adhesive came off 
> with the old windows) which will be covered by the new plexiglass. 
> 
> Does anyone have a recommendation as to whether I should remove (sand/chisel) 
> the adhesive that remains between the wndows or just bring everything else up 
> to that level when doing the gel coat and fiberglass repairs?
> 
> Dave
> Saltaire
> C 35 Mk3
> Bristol, RI



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Stus-List (no subject)

[Dave via CnC-List]

Hi Doug - went through this think myself, I had the std 33-2 setup of 2 group 
31 (I think...  Could be 34). Deep cycle flooded batteries (batt 1 and 2) and 
an added xantrex smart charger.  
Got some advice from a backup power designer

Will parallel the existing batteries and add a u1 start battery, switched with 
a blue seas selector/ combiner, (in a panel with 24/7 breakers and no more 
kick-off toggle) an vsr, all monitored by Victron energy bmv-70, which fits the 
stock 2" hole.  Decided against a smart regulator as offering little benefit.  
Fitting that 3rd battery is a trick, would live to know how it was fine in 
yours.

Dave

The stock alternator is fine 





n Sunday, February 28, 2016 9:41 AM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List 
 wrote:




 We have two T12 136ah  ( slightly larger and heavier than a group 27 ) Rolls 
house batteries which are now in their 12th year of service.  I was thinking 
they were near their end of life but a battery equalization last year seems to 
have given them a new lease on life. We replaced a Rolls starting battery after 
11 years. 
 Ed
 1982 LF38
 On Feb 27, 2016 1:20 PM, "Doug Welch via CnC-List"  
wrote:

   Our new (to us) 33-2 has a couple of Surette Group 27 Deep Cycle Batteries 
of indeterminate age in plastic battery boxes with no lid and a Canadian Tire 
22NF starting Battery (In what looks like a home made wooden battery box). 

   My first instinct is to replace the deep cycles with Interstates and upgrade 
the 22NF to a Group 25 Marine Starter Battery in proper battery boxes (I have 
seen first hand how quickly a dropped wrench landing on exposed 12v battery 
terminals can go very bad).

   The charger is a relatively new looking Professional Mariner ProSport 20 
Heavy-Duty Marine Battery Charger. Both banks are monitored by a cruising 
equipment company e-meter.

   My questions are 
   1. Does anyone have 2 G27s and a G25? Is there room?
   2. Someone told me the Surette are very good batteries with longer than 
average life and I shouldn't be in a hurry to replace them. Experience ? 
Thoughts?
   3. Anything else from your experience I should be thinking about?

   Cheers,
   Doug 

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Stus-List Window Replacement

[Dave via CnC-List]

In my window replacement project I've removed the old windows, most of the old 
adhesive, done a fair degree of damage to the gel coat and created one small 
chip in the surrounding fiberglass. There is a layer of old adhesive (brown) 
between the two windows (and a section where the adhesive came off with the old 
windows) which will be covered by the new plexiglass. 

Does anyone have a recommendation as to whether I should remove (sand/chisel) 
the adhesive that remains between the wndows or just bring everything else up 
to that level when doing the gel coat and fiberglass repairs? 

Dave 
Saltaire 
C 35 Mk3 
Bristol, RI 
- Original Message -

From: "Gary Russell via CnC-List"  
To: "C List"  
Cc: "Gary Russell"  
Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 7:05:20 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 3M tape 

Doug and Fred, 
I used the 1/2" x 0.090" also. Worked great and easy to use. 
Gary 

~~~ _ / ) ~~ 


On Mon, Feb 29, 2016 at 9:43 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com < cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> wrote: 





Pretty sure I used the 1/2 inch by 0.090 thick stuff. 




Doug Mountjoy 

svPegasus 

LF38 

just west of Ballard, WA. 







-- Original message-- 

From: Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 

Date: Mon, Feb 29, 2016 16:36 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; 

Cc: Fred Hazzard; 

Subject: Re: Stus-List 3M tape 




Doug what size did you use? 

Fred 
On Feb 29, 2016 4:32 PM, " svpegasu...@gmail.com " < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 





I got a roll thru Amazon. 




Doug Mountjoy 

svPegasus 

LF38 

just west of Ballard, WA. 







-- Original message-- 

From: Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 

Date: Mon, Feb 29, 2016 12:43 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; 

Cc: Fred Hazzard; 

Subject: Stus-List 3M tape 


I am looking for a source of the 3M tape vhb4991 to redo some windows. 

Secondly I would like some ideas on removing the old windows I did 7 years ago 
with sikkens 295. Along with removing the windows I will need to clean up the 
sikkens from the fiberglas to accept the 3M tape. 

Thanks 
Fred Hazzard 
S/V Fury 
C 44 
Portland, Or 

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Re: Stus-List Items for sale

[Dave via CnC-List]

If Steve elects to not take the Autohelm please contact me since I'd definitely 
be interested. 

Dave 
C 35 MK3 
Saltaire 
Bristol, RI 


- Original Message -

From: "sthoma20--- via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: sthom...@bellnet.ca 
Sent: Friday, February 19, 2016 9:21:01 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Items for sale 

John, 
I am interested in the autohelm, and maybe the Furuno too. A few more details 
like which model of autohelm controller and associated equipment would be 
helpful. Please contact me off list if you would rather. I am in the process of 
fixing up a much neglected and bare bones 36. 

Thanks, 

Steve Thomas 
C 
Merritt Island, FL 

 John Bousfield via CnC-List  wrote: 
Good morning Lister's, 
Spring is getting close and I have some items to sell, but before I put 
them on the usual sites I thought I would see if anyone in the group is 
interested. These items are from fresh water never been in salt water. 
1. Furuno 1621 Mk2 price $600 
2. Raytheon Linear autohelm. It comes with a spare linear drive that is in 
working order or can be used for parts. It comes with the wind vane 
steering unit. Price $500. 

John & Marjolein 
dutch girl C 36 
Spring Lake, MI 


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Re: Stus-List When to reef C 33-2

[Dave via CnC-List]

No such thing as an agile front row 

Dave 
C 35 Mk3 
Saltaire 
Bristol, RI 


- Original Message -

From: "Mike via CnC-List Hoyt"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Mike Hoyt"  
Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2016 8:39:01 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List When to reef C 33-2 



Yup he is dreaming. 



First of all us old guys dream that we are 200 pounders and secondly we are not 
agile. 



We have raced with as many as 17 on the C 115 Koobalibra. Had a front and 
back row on the rail! We could really hold the spin on a tight angle that day 
(and we won the race) 



Mike 

Persistence 

Dreaming of being 200 lbs and agile 








From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mike 
Amirault via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2016 12:02 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Mike Amirault 
Subject: Re: Stus-List When to reef C 33-2 





Dwight, you’re dreamin’. You are never gonna find 7 or 8 agile 200 pounders 
willing to sit on your rail. neither will I. 


For that reason, I have decided to not race Lovely Cruise any longer. 

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Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Dave via CnC-List]

Martec sells a geared prop, the Slipstream. When I asked how it compares with 
the Flexfold the only thing they came up with was that it was all stainless 
steel. The difference in price, $1929 versus $1205 for the Flexfold is pretty 
substantial especially if the only differentiation is the material. Is anyone 
familiar withthe Slipstream prop? 

Also, Flexfold as well as Slipstream offer the 2 bladed props in a racing 
version. The racing version closes more tightly and has a "pointier" blade so 
offers less resistance when folded. Any opinions about this are appreciated. 


Dave 
C 35 MK3 
Saltaire 
Bristol, RI 

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Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Dave via CnC-List]

Tim, 

What is the pitch on the Flexfold you replaced the Martec with? also was it a 
16"? 

Dave 
C 35 MK3 
Saltaire 
Bristol, RI 

- Original Message -

From: "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Tim Goodyear"  
Sent: Saturday, February 6, 2016 6:55:59 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3 

Bill, yes it is. Please could you check out how you would like to ship? It will 
be coming from CT or RI depending on when in the next couple of weeks. There 
are Cotter pins and I think a shaft nut, but no shaft key. It was making a nice 
paper weight in my office, but since I won't have an office in two weeks 
time... 

Thanks, 

Tim 

On Feb 6, 2016, at 5:50 PM, Bill Blight via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 




Hi Tim 
I am interested in the Mated offered in your e mail. I currently have a Martec 
18 x 10 which is too large of a diameter of a 3GMF engine. Can you please let 
me know if this prop is still available. 
Thanks, 
Bill 
CC 35 MkIII 
From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2016 10:12 AM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Tim Goodyear 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3 
Sam, 
I have a 2-blade Martec Elliptic 17x10 RH folding prop for a 1" shaft that you 
are welcome to try out for the cost of shipping (from New England). It came off 
my 35-3 with Yanmar 3GMF and 2.2:1 transmission. 
Fair warning, I replaced it with a flex-o-fold because I wasn't happy with 
performance in reverse and occasional unbalanced opening (one blade more than 
another) at low revs... 
Tim 
(ex Mojito; C 35-3 Newport, RI) 
On Wed, Feb 3, 2016 at 11:42 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> wrote: 



I have a spare prop I took off when I replaced it with a Max Prop, 17 X 10 RH. 
We can talk. 
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LKRe8QHE_x8/VrLWbGMeEWI/EKU/Zl7I9s_8bVw/s912-Ic42/IMG_7534.JPG
 


Jim Watts 
Paradigm Shift 
C 35 Mk III 
Victoria, BC 
On 3 February 2016 at 16:35, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 





Sam, 



IIRC, I’m swinging a 10x16 Martec elliptical prop. Good forward performance. 
Reverse requires a lot of rpms to get a response, but it works for me. 

I’m just a high speed – low drag racer anyway. 



Jake 



Jake Brodersen 

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress” 

Hampton VA 







From: CnC-List [mailto: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Sam 
Wheeler via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, February 3, 2016 17:08 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Sam Wheeler < samwheeler.s...@gmail.com > 
Subject: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3 





Hi everyone, 





I recently bought a 35-3, and one of the projects it came with was the prop had 
galvanic corrosion and needed to be replaced. It's a fixed two blade. 





The previous owners adjusted the pitch on it, apparently from 10 to 8. They 
seemed to think that improved performance but the boatyard is telling me that 
the specs for the boat and engine call for 10. Does anyone have any thoughts on 
this? 





Thanks, 


Sam 








-- Forwarded message -- 
From: Carston Grasvik < cars...@svendsens.com > 
Date: Wed, Feb 3, 2016 at 8:19 AM 
Subject: FW: Propeller for C 35 
To: Sam Wheeler < samwheeler.s...@gmail.com > 






Hi Sam, 



It appears your old prop has an odd pitch to it. The prop I estimated for you 
has a 10 degree pitch which is specified for your boat and engine. Please see 
note below from our prop people and advise what you’d like to do. 



Best Regards, 



Carston 




From: Ernel Elkin [mailto: prop...@pacbell.net ] 
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2016 3:47 PM 
To: Carston Grasvik 
Subject: Propeller for C 35 





HI CARSTON - DAVE MEASURED THE PITCH ON THE 2 BLADE AND IT IS 8"! 
UNFORTUNATELY, THE PROP I FOUND FOR YOU HAD ALREADY BEEN REPITCHED FROM 12 TO 
10 AND CAN NOT BE REPITCHED ANYMORE. IT WOULD PROBABLY CRACK. 





I LOOKED AROUND AND FOUND ANOTHER 18"X 10", BUT THE PILOT BORE IS 1-1/8", SO 
THE CUSTOMER WOULD HAVE TO USE A BUSHING WITH IT AND HAVE IT REPITCHED TO 8". 
BUSHING COST IS $74 AND REPITCHING IS $150. 





KIND OF A WEIRD SIZE. THE LOWEST PITCH AVAILABLE IS 10". PLEASE DISCUSS WITH 
YOUR CUSTOMER. THANKS. 





ERNEL 



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Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Dave via CnC-List]

When I sent in an inquiry this was their response. I replied that a 16" prop 
was smaller than my current 17" Martek. They replied that they've sold this 
prop is what best works on the boat, that they had sold many of them and not 
had any complaints. 





With a 3GM30, 27/3600 ( gear reduction ratio 1:2,61 ) we would recommend a 
2-blade 16x12R or a 3-blade 16x11-3R propeller for your C 35MKIII . 



The price for a complete 2-blade 16x12R propeller with hub for SAE standard 
shaft is USD 1,205 

The price for a complete 3-blade 16x11-3R propeller with hub for SAE standard 
shaft is USD 2,035 

Price is incl. shipping costs with a door-to-door service by UPS from Flexofold 
in Denmark to the address in the USA (mainland). Please check if there are some 
local duties. 

Unless someone has or recommends a different size Flexfold prop on a 35 MK 3 
I'm going to order the recommended 2 blade. 

Dave 
C 35 MK 3 


- Original Message -

From: "Nauset Beach via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Nauset Beach" <nausetbe...@optonline.net> 
Sent: Friday, February 5, 2016 5:29:17 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3 



Dave, 



Which Flex prop are you getting? Do you have a Yanmar 3 GM30F engine? 



Am looking at replacing my prop. 



Thanks 

Brian 




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 3:49 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: davidjaco...@comcast.net 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3 





I'm with Tim. I had my Martek rebuilt last spring and was really disappointed 
because even after the rebuild it wouldn't always open evenly. I'm replacing it 
with a FlexFold. By the way reverse was OK you just need to get use to it. 





Dave 


C 35 MK 3 


Saltaire 


Bristol, RI 

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Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Dave via CnC-List]

I'm with Tim. I had my Martek rebuilt last spring and was really disappointed 
because even after the rebuild it wouldn't always open evenly. I'm replacing it 
with a FlexFold. By the way reverse was OK you just need to get use to it. 

Dave 
C 35 MK 3 
Saltaire 
Bristol, RI 

- Original Message -

From: "Jake Brodersen via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Jake Brodersen"  
Sent: Wednesday, February 3, 2016 7:35:37 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3 



Sam, 



IIRC, I’m swinging a 10x16 Martec elliptical prop. Good forward performance. 
Reverse requires a lot of rpms to get a response, but it works for me. 

I’m just a high speed – low drag racer anyway. 



Jake 



Jake Brodersen 

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress” 

Hampton VA 







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sam Wheeler 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, February 3, 2016 17:08 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Sam Wheeler  
Subject: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3 




Hi everyone, 





I recently bought a 35-3, and one of the projects it came with was the prop had 
galvanic corrosion and needed to be replaced. It's a fixed two blade. 





The previous owners adjusted the pitch on it, apparently from 10 to 8. They 
seemed to think that improved performance but the boatyard is telling me that 
the specs for the boat and engine call for 10. Does anyone have any thoughts on 
this? 





Thanks, 


Sam 








-- Forwarded message -- 
From: Carston Grasvik < cars...@svendsens.com > 
Date: Wed, Feb 3, 2016 at 8:19 AM 
Subject: FW: Propeller for C 35 
To: Sam Wheeler < samwheeler.s...@gmail.com > 



Hi Sam, 



It appears your old prop has an odd pitch to it. The prop I estimated for you 
has a 10 degree pitch which is specified for your boat and engine. Please see 
note below from our prop people and advise what you’d like to do. 



Best Regards, 



Carston 




From: Ernel Elkin [mailto: prop...@pacbell.net ] 
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2016 3:47 PM 
To: Carston Grasvik 
Subject: Propeller for C 35 





HI CARSTON - DAVE MEASURED THE PITCH ON THE 2 BLADE AND IT IS 8"! 
UNFORTUNATELY, THE PROP I FOUND FOR YOU HAD ALREADY BEEN REPITCHED FROM 12 TO 
10 AND CAN NOT BE REPITCHED ANYMORE. IT WOULD PROBABLY CRACK. 





I LOOKED AROUND AND FOUND ANOTHER 18"X 10", BUT THE PILOT BORE IS 1-1/8", SO 
THE CUSTOMER WOULD HAVE TO USE A BUSHING WITH IT AND HAVE IT REPITCHED TO 8". 
BUSHING COST IS $74 AND REPITCHING IS $150. 





KIND OF A WEIRD SIZE. THE LOWEST PITCH AVAILABLE IS 10". PLEASE DISCUSS WITH 
YOUR CUSTOMER. THANKS. 





ERNEL 




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Stus-List Window Replacement

[Dave via CnC-List]

I know this topic's been beat to death and I have every suggestion on what 
adhesive/tape to use and how to install the new windows. But, I don't have the 
emails saying how to get the old windows out. A large exacto blade worked great 
taking out the sealant but not so much on the underlying, very hard adhesive. 

Any suggestions on how to remove the old adhesive and remove the windows is 
greatly appreciated. 

Thank you, 

Dave 
Saltaire 
C 35 MK 3 
Bristol, RI 
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Re: Stus-List Refinish/repaint breaker panels?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Used 3/16 black acrylic, wet sanded with 400 grit to a matte finish.  Looks 
good.  Brother p-touch to label panel, and wires also with special labels.  
Labelled and routed all wires and secured with cable ties.  Replaced my analog 
voltmeter with victonix battery monitor. Fits existing hole

Dave


Message: 1
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2016 19:28:34 -0400
From: Graham Collins 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinish/repaint breaker panels?
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"

Hi Joel
I had to replace my AC panel, at some point it had a meter in it which 
had died and been torn out, looked bad.  And I wanted to fit a VHF 
adjacent.  So I had 2 rectangles cut and I drilled as required, and 
painted with black "hammered finish" spray - looks great.  And when I 
later replaced the panel above it I could easily paint to match.

Paneltronics will let you pick the exact labels you want and just buy 
them, so you don't end up with labels for "trim tab" and "annoyingly 
loud stereo"...

Graham Collins

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Re: Stus-List Lemon oil cause mildew?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Agreed on ventilation.  We had a venture 22 20 years ago that had minor 
condensation issues.  I added a single passive dome  vent to the foredeck, 
issue solved.  It takes very little but constant air movement to make a real 
improvement.  Most production boats are very poor in this regard imo.  
The cs36t makes clever use of the anchor locker as a dorade vent.  

Dave 


> 
> I have installed a pair of 3? Nicro solar powered vents in place of the
> cowl vents on my dorade boxes. So now there is a 4? in the hatch in the
> salon, a 3? over the head, and a 3? over the passage to the v berth. Lots
> of ventilation, and no mildew since the installation. Air circulation seems
> to be the key.
> 
> 
> 
> Rick Brass
> 
> Washington, NC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Pete
> Shelquist via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 10, 2016 10:44 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Pete Shelquist 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Lemon oil cause mildew?
> 
> 
> 
> Josh ?
> 
> I?ve used lemon oil and have not had any mildew issues.  However, we do
> try to ventilate the boat well.

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Stus-List Lexan hychcovers in GTA

[Dave via CnC-List]

Have dealt with their Whitby shop many times.  Good guys, very helpful.  They 
also repair and fabricate poly tanks.  

Dave


Hi Ed,

Thanks for the warning. I think I will avoid the 
Troana Boat Show... most of the others offer a discount. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 03:25 PM 09/01/2016, you wrote:

> At the Toronto boat show Ontario Plastic 
> Fabricators 
> www.ontarioplastics.ca 
> had a booth. Located in east end Toronto. They 
> have Lexan listed on their handout ... colours 
> and smokes?  25% premium on the listed cost.
> 
> No affiliation and have not purchased from them previously.
> 
> Ed
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Re: Stus-List 10. Re: Acoustic insulation in Canada

[Dave via CnC-List]

Here is the link

http://power.cummins.com/sites/default/files/literature/technicalpapers/PT-7015-NoiseSolutions-en.pdf

Subject: Re: Stus-List 10. Re: Acoustic insulation in Canada (Dreuge)
Message-ID:
   <132847350.520834.1452380620089.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

the link does not appear to work.  :-(

Leslie.

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Re: Stus-List Automatic bilge pump switch help

[Dave via CnC-List]

In my 33ii

Had been thinking of using my rarely-used shower pan drain pump and connecting 
it to a diverter valve which would select between the bilge and the shower.   
Would plumb a hose and wire a float switch in the bilge, with a solid state 
relay by the existing switch in the head,  wired in parallel.  Rewire at the 
panel for 24/7.   This in my 33ii, and supplemental to the stock diaphragm pump.
(Incidentally, The remote pump and separate switch arrangement prevents the 
cycling pump issue, at the expense of a little water in the bilge.)
Anyone done this?   
Dave.

 

Message: 12
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2016 20:17:53 -0500
From: Sailnomad 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject:
Message-ID:
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

You can do one of the following:
- Raise the mounting of the water witch.
- Use a smaller diameter, or shorter hose

Check valves are designed for preventing instantaneous backflow.
Pretty much all of them will eventually leak the water back into the bilge,
so you will still cycle, only with a longer period.
If you want to go that road, you can install a normally closed valve that
opens when the bilge pump comes on.
However, this adds complication to the system which is never a good thing.
I prefer a small bilge pump (500 gph) with a small diameter (3/8 id) hose
to keep the bilge dry, and a larger (2000 gph) one (1-1/2 id) with a higher
float switch if more pumping is needed.
Ahmet
Boston, MA

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Stus-List (no subject)

[Dave via CnC-List]

Whynott - a new one for the list- thanks.   wanderer is great, re read many 
times.  Sterling Hayden was an intriguing guy, lived through interesting times. 
 Voyage is very good too.  
Dave


Message: 12
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2015 14:59:18 -0500
From: "Chuck Gilchrest" <csgilchr...@comcast.net>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...
Message-ID: <002101d14405$bc3db160$34b91420$@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"

All,
One of my favorite reads that involves sailing and boat building is Douglass
Whynott's "A Unit of Water, A Unit of Time", which is a non-fiction account
of the last boat built by Joel White at Brooklin Boatyard in Maine (the son
of writer EB White as well as being a prolific naval architect).  The book
is a quiet book, best enjoyed in front of a fireplace with a few Benjamin
Mendlowitz calendars and coffee table books available for reference photos
of the various boats mentioned in the text.  
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 mk 1
S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin
DeYoung via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 2:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Martin DeYoung <mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...

Andrew,

If you enjoy Sterling Hayden's Wanderer, look for a copy of his novel
"Voyage". IIRC it is set in 1900 and begins on a dark and stormy night in
Boston harbor.  In short it is a story of a clipper ship hauling coal around
the horn to San Francisco.

For years I carried paperback copies of Wanderer or Voyage to read on
offshore passages and never got tired of re-reading them.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 7:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...

Rereading Wanderer, by Sterling Hayden. Great great book!

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Dec 30, 2015, at 17:37, Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
> 
> Just finished 'Moxie' by Phil weld - great book, impressive man.
> In the same vein, about t re-read 'around the world alone' by Alain Colas.


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Stus-List Winter sailing reads...

[Dave via CnC-List]

Just finished 'Moxie' by Phil weld - great book, impressive man.
In the same vein, about t re-read 'around the world alone' by Alain Colas.

Sent from my iPhone

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Stus-List (no subject)

[Dave via CnC-List]

Pretty pleased with two blade folding gori on my 33-2.  


st [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe at
Zialater via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2015 11:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe at Zialater
Subject: Stus-List Folding prop for 30-1 with A4

My 1975 30-1,  Zia is up for a nice Christmas gift this year - a folding
prop.  

Any recommendations for a good folder that will still give me decent
performance in forward and reverse?  I don't know the current two blade prop
specs but she is being pushed by a smooth running Atomic 4.

Thanks for any input - and happy holidays!

Joe Boyle
Zia
An

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Stus-List Upholsterers in the Toronto area?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Anybody know of a skilled but reasonable shop in the GTA ?  Thanks.

Dave

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List depth transducer replacement

[Dave via CnC-List]

Oops - sorry frank, another too hasty reply from work...Agreed with other 
poster, drill from both sides.  As suggested, Good practice to score one side 
first anyway to prevent splintering.

> On Dec 11, 2015, at 12:23 PM, Dave Syer  wrote:
> 
> Frank  - How about knocking the old sensor out and spending two minutes 
> enlarging the hole with a coarse half-round file?  (could use a die grinder 
> if air nearby,  or a bit from one on a cordless drill, or a drum sander ona 
> cordless drill, etc)
> Am I missing something?
>  
> Dave
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> Message: 12
> Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2015 08:19:11 -0800 (PST)
> From: svpegasu...@gmail.com 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List depth transducer replacement
> Message-ID: <000f4242.2eb1832d2f8da...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have drilled many a large hole that way. Works great.?
> Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- Original message--From: Eric Frank via CnC-List Date: Thu, Dec 10, 
> 2015 12:20To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Eric Frank;Subject:Stus-List depth 
> transducer replacement
> A question about removing a depth transducer to install the new one.  Based 
> on earlier input from the list, I have used a 2 inch hole saw from the top. 
> Fortunately the diameter of the old transducer is just shy of 2 in and the 
> new one requires a 2 in hole. So the body of the old transducer just fits 
> inside the hole saw, keeping it lined up with little drag (not cutting much 
> of the plastic body of the transducer).  When the inside top of the hole saw 
> reached the top of the transducer, I then cut off the top half of the 
> transducer so I could proceed drilling down.  Now the hole saw just touches 
> the hull, but the inside top of the hole saw hits the top of the transducer, 
> so I will need to saw off the next section of the transducer to proceed 
> further.  With my tools, not so easy to saw off the transducer just above the 
> hull. Question: what about drilling down thru the transducer with a regular 
> drill bit, using the pilot hole made by the drill bit in the hole saw, and 
> then, using that hole as a guide, use the hole saw to proceed up from the 
> outside of the hull.  This would avoid cutting thru more of the transducer (a 
> pain), and the pilot hole should guide the hole saw. Sound OK, or better to 
> continue from the top?Thanks as always for your input.Eric FrankCat's PawC 
> 35 Mk IIMattapoisett, MA___Email 
> address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, including 
> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page 
> at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> -- next part --
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> --
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
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Re: Stus-List Boat tools

[Dave via CnC-List]

I keep a manual hand drill on the boat-  yard sale item, I  use it fairly 
often.  Batteries never die.
Dave


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2015 20:24:11 -0600
From: "Dennis C." 
To: CnClist 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat tools
Message-ID:
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Rick,

Go with the Makita!  I love mine.  Several listers also have the Makita.

Dennis C.


On Tue, Dec 8, 2015 at 7:29 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> And my other Christmas present to myself will be a good quality (likely
> Makita or Bosch) 18 volt drill driver with 2 lithium batteries. Every
> cansarned time I get out the drill on the boat, the NICad batteries are
> dead. That one is going into the garage where a battery can be kept on the
> charger.

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Re: Stus-List small start battery for yanmar 3hmf

[Dave via CnC-List]

Very interesting battery banter.   For me the best flooded U1 is probably the 
way to go, I bet I can fit that with the existing batteries under the qb.  .  
450 cca, and the same charging profile as my grp 31 flooded house bank.  (The 
xantrex charger makes you select one one profile for all batteries)Less 
expensive, I know it will work, and it's deep cycle capabilities are not really 
relevant for this application.  Thanks all.  

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