Does the 29-2 have a putty-filled forward Section of keel stub? If so, be wary
of a volume of water therein
In windstar (33-2) I did a major keel box repair then lifted the hull off the
keel a few extra mm, cleaned the gap, (hacksaw blade, fein mutimaster). then
filled as much of the gap
tes are not data.
>
> Bill Bina
>
>> On 3/30/2017 8:44 AM, Dave via CnC-List wrote:
>> My spinlock deck vest has a tethered cutter in a dedicated pocket as
>> standard equipment. Hopefully one would remember it in a panic.
>>
>> My salus coastal life jacke
My spinlock deck vest has a tethered cutter in a dedicated pocket as standard
equipment. Hopefully one would remember it in a panic.
My salus coastal life jacket has big pockets that contain a tethered folding
knife, and a small flashlight.
Both are quite well designed imo.
Dave.
Sent
Others will surely disagree, but I Am not convinced that expensive marine stuff
is needed for this application, and may actually be a disadvantage from a
maintenance point of view. I bought some valspar premium enamel, gloss white,
#565000 and it's matching primer, from Home Depot or Canadian
Bob,
I'd be interested in the Kevlar X20 main. What is the weight, age and
condition?
Dave J
Saltaire
C 35 MKlll
Bristol,
RI
- Original Message -
From: "rshibe via CnC-List"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "rshibe"
Sent: Tuesday,
Bob,
I have a 2.5 Lehr which is just oK. If I were to buy a new dingy motor I'd look
at the Honda 2.3 HPW 4 stroke. 30 pounds, internal gas tank, quiet and less
than $1K.
Dave
- Original Message -
From: Bob McLaughlin via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Considering the addition of a wind instrument before launch, and am looking for
any thoughts from those who've done it.
I have a raymarine ev100 wheelpilot, i70 display, iPad as chartplotter. Am
leaning toward an ultrasonic, n2k sensor.
Thoughts/wisdom/guidance?
Thanks!dave. 33-2
Check also victron BMV 700. I seem to recall reading that the xantrex unit is
a buy for resale victron.It was the perfect fit for what I wanted and also
in the 2" hole that once housed my analog voltmeter.
Photos here:
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/p/blog-page.html?m=1
Dave. (Launch
Congrats Matthew! It appears you don't do laundry at home. What's your
secret? ;-)
Dave
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 25, 2017, at 5:50 PM, Matthew L. Wolford wrote:
>
> I discovered something by accident a few years ago. I decided to clean the
> cruddy, old freshwater
I used citrus cleaner - works great.
Dave
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 25, 2017, at 11:37 AM, Jake Brodersen wrote:
>
> Bev,
>
> Simple Green and Purple Power are my two favorite cleaners. Joel has had
> some good success with citrus based cleaners too. Simple Green
John,
What was the Bomar model number?
Dave J
"Saltaire"
C 35 MK 3
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: "John Rand via CnC-List"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "John Rand"
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2017 9:50:15 AM
Subject:
Same. Citrus degreaser works too.
For small parts I have two large tin cans, one that is a close fit inside the
other. The bottom of the inner can is drilled full of 1/8" holes. Kinda like
a pasta pot. I dump solvent in and the small parts let them soak, sloosh them
around (they knock
John, have taken the liberty of forwarding this to the Cnc list.
> Subject: Re: Navtec 10 Series 7
>
> John,
>
> When you say failed, I assume that you mean the seals now don't.
> If so, Plenty of industrial hydraulics places in the GTA - would expect they
> could fix?
>
> FYI - windstar
Agreed on this, if I had it to do again I would not buy the ev 100.
Dave
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 20, 2016, at 9:32 AM, David Knecht wrote:
>
> I agree on autopilot as an absolute necessity (I sail and race single handed
> frequently). I put an EV-100 wheel
Get line clutches instead of a self tailer on the cabin top. Tailing the line
is no issue if it passes first through a clutch. This is how the next gen of
your boat (33ii) is set up.
Dave
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 19, 2016, at 4:51 PM, Andrew Means wrote:
>
>
For my spin, I'm going to try this with a cam cleat mounted on the turning
block at the base of the mast. Hauling from the cockpit should pop it out of
the cleat. Haven't quite got the singlehanded routine worked out yet
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 19, 2016, at 3:51 PM,
Lol - tough QA team!What happened if you were late for work?
Good doc, I probably read in in my AMP training in. '86 - my first job, we
were an Amp shop. And yes, we (later job) soldered and potted the amphenol
and cannon connectors, crimped (only) the Reel fed terminals, heat shrunk
Marek - my wires exit the mast through a hole on the port side near the base
and are terminated with #8 flanged fork terminals. Each wire is labelled.
There is about 2' of wire sticking out of the mast.
I have mounted a barriered dual row terminal block below the port settee, with
the harness
Not necessarily. Same as in a house, an arc fault (or conceptually similar)
can ignite combustible materials at lower-than-protected current levels. Well
secured wiring Protected from chafe is a really good idea.
Dave.
Sent from my iPad
> On Dec 6, 2016, at 5:30 PM, Patrick Davin
Saw this this morning. Bargains often are not, however here's a low price for
a 25 - Canadian $.
No knowledge of boat.
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/oakville-halton-region/c-and-c-25-1-000-first-person-647-973-1466/1220630583?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
Dave.
Sent from my
the blemishes
> disappeared after sanding and applying high build primer prior to painting.
> The topsides now are perfectly with smooth.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touché 35_1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
> On Nov 27, 2016 5:19 PM, "Dave via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-li
First sighted when I was looking at a c corvette. This boat had older Dark
blue awlgrip and had been upgraded (including hydraulic backstab adjuster) and
was due again for a general refit
When sighting down the top sides I detected some deep waviness (like 3/16 to
1/4" distortion) in the top
Patrick, for what it's worth, and this may not be much, the Lf is a more of a
cruising biased design, and if that's the intended use and safety and
reliability are paramount, and all else is equal, I'd convert to standard,
stranded wire. As to the responsiveness attributed to every C yacht
Before messing with glue, at least try the self-adhesive industrial Velcro. A
different breed, very tenacious.
Dave.
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2016 09:03:59 -0800
From: Jim Watts
To: 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Velcro Adhesive
Had a brainwave today and picked up a large exhaust pipe expander from
princess auto today (a Canadian version of Harbour Freight)
Worked very well indeed to press the dent out from the inside, and
coincidentally straighten the bend - no doubt it is not at its original
strength, but overall
Called 'spice' by any chance? Owned by my uncle, charter-skippered by my
cousin... was never aboard unfortunately.
Dave
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2016 11:55:59 -0500
From: Allen Miles
To: CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1991 C 51
Message-ID:
Well, old school, (rorc rule maybe?) and she certainly won't surf! At 88' loa
I guess you can lean things out a bit! Check out the Deerfoot 62 or sundeer
for non-IOR proportioned boats.
Dave
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 14, 2016, at 6:28 PM, Dan Grant wrote:
>
> Her
Nice short video here on one of the imoca 60s which will be competing in the
planet's more incredible sporting event - starts soon.
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x50ghcm_daily-summary-4-days-to-go-vendee-globe-2016_sport#tab_embed
Sent from my
Was going to say this, for docking, you can just tie a breastline to the
toerail...
I have a line run from bow cleat, tied to toerail beside the cockpit with
enough slack that I can drop it over the cleat at my slip when docking
singlehanded. I then turn the helm slightly away from the dock,
Dave,
If your shift linkage is correctly adjusted and you have dealt with the
alignment, shaft and prop, and the vibration can be described as violent as the
Revs increase, I would not rule out the transmission, despite the rebuild.
You mention a new cone gear, (?) but that does not
Kevin,
I've struggled with the same issue for three seasons.
When I first got the boat it have a Martek 2 blade folding prop. When motoring
off the mooring no problem. But after sailing the prop vibrated horribly.
Throwing it into reverse and then back into forward usually but not always
Getting close to a mainsail decision and will post more before long - very much
in line with the various pieces of advice I received from fellow listers. I
will summarize all of that soon.
Kevin was dead on - the blog itself is a wealth of info, well written, very
relevant etc, however I
Jake, my ICOM m506 vhf is NMEA 2000 compliant and has an. AIS receiver. It
plugs into my accursed seatalk NG network via an adapter cable, and my ray i70
displays the AIS targets. Plug and play. SeatalkNG is an nmea 2000
network with a proprietary cable system intended to make it
Thanks Joel - tried that today but no dice. Something for spring I guess.
Pretty happy with the rest of the setup anyway. Thinking about a maretron wind
inst. now... software is too cool not to have one!
Dave
Message: 7
Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2016 18:35:39 -0400
From: Joel Aronson
Not C content specifically but am hoping for local guidance.
Was planning a driving trip with the family to dc, long weekend, including a
part day at the Annapolis boat show.
Have struck out on appropriate accommodations in dc - hoping for something nw
and near the metro. Any other
Thanks all for the responses - the 33-2 has the stock steaming/foredeck combo,
plus, on mine the vestigial wiring for past spreader lights. I have used the
foredeck light once. Each has its own breaker, argument enough for moving to
led and replacing at least one breaker with a compact
For the record - those are not photos of windstar! The one that is really bad
was a 33-2 and it piqued my curiosity so I went for a walk with my camera.
I did have the waterlogged keel stub issue, which I fixed, and I then bedded
and epoxy/glassed over the keel/hull joint, faired with
Yep, I had that happen once, pre-ram mount. The Bimini seems to shade it well
enough, and I generally leave the iPad below unless needed for a harbour
entrance or channel. (Not terribly demanding pilotage around here - north
shore of Lake Ontario). I may add a mounting ball near the
Graham/all - to be clear, to me the issue is not so much being able to update
one Manufacturer's firmware from another's device, it's about not being able to
update it at all, without a MFD (hence the 'accessories to MFD subject line').
Raymarine could easily have elected to permit updates by
Michael,
Can you please provide some detail as to how you were able to "rod out" your
raw water passages?
Thank you,
Dave J
Saltaire
C 33 MK3
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: "Michael Brannon via CnC-List"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Michael
If it were me, I would remove the weaker, top up with distilled water,charge
(use a car charger) have it load tested by the trustworthy place you will
ultimately buy from, and decide. Repeat for #2.
If the battery was very low on water for any length of time and was repeatedly
charged and
Alan,
Why did you change to the Harken traveler?
Dave J
Saltaire
C 33 Mk3
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: "ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List"
To: "C"
Cc: "ALAN BERGEN"
Sent: Friday, September 2, 2016
I have the same unit. Control head at helm.
n2k 5 port, GPS antenna, and autopilot pieces at foot of quarter berth.
Happy with that.
Dave. 33-2
From: Adam Hayden
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Subject: Stus-List EV 100 autopilot
Message-ID:
Imo- I think the best reason not to use epoxy on the companionway steps is that
it is probably not really necessary, especially on teak.Second best reason
is cost, third is repairability vs varnish.
Yer basic general purpose epoxy is too thick in my opinion for easy varnishing,
(btdt
For sure Joe, there will be much more variance boat to boat, and anyway it's
just one man's opinion. (Well, I suppose two, cuz I agreed). I. I won't
speak for the gentleman, but I remember the context, and the inference was not
that earlier boats somehow lacked 'quality' relative to later,
Second that, load test the battery first for sure, check the cables.
I had two high resistance grounds that caused issues. One, a stud on the back
of a gauge, the other, the main engine harness ground, a bolt below the
starter. Disassemble, clean, grease.No problems since.
The battery
Antoine - I have resisted joining this thread, but I have read the account of
your ambitious and impressive trip.
Would be very interesting in your view of what 'very well prepared' means in
this context.
The tadoussac - la pocatiere area is certainly impressive for its cold and
wind.
Dave
Visited the boat today and saw that the fittings were made in NZ by RC Marine,
once, along with Ronstan, a division of the long-gone Fortuna (apparently not)
corporation. These deck fills look an awful lot like those currently offered
by Forespar, and I have an inquiry in with them. Maybe
Thanks - Josh, looks like the same stuff, or very similar. will pursue Eaton
hose distributors here.
Doug, it is indeed similar to heater hose, except it has an additional outer
jacket extruded over it. The black inner part is identical to automotive
heater hose, dimensionally, and it
Agreed with Fred, first choice machine screws, second larger, and third and
fourth - bodywork clips or heavily glass-filled epoxy.
I did a bunch of the latter this season and found that drilling the (new) holes
then 'tapping' with a modified wood screw worked well.By modified I mean
Joe - not so hard to make your own. You could layout on any flat surface using
waxed paper as a release liner. See blog link below
Dave
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2015/12/making-fibreglass-parts.html?m=1
>
>> On Aug 9, 2016, at 2:27 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
>>
Hi John. My sheaves had worn bushings, and these were easily replaced with
stock bushings from Brafasco (less than $20). In the 33-2 you unbolt the cap
on the masthead, and lift out the axle with the topping lift and main halyard
sheaves. I suppose it could be done with the mast up, but I
Apologies - my post is not at all clear.
I am wondering where others cleverly stow the tiller and its tools.When I
got mine it was buried in the cockpit locker, with rusting wrenches Masking
taped to the arm.
I fastened the wrenches with small cable ties and tied the lot to the straps
A life in the connector biz tells me to look at military or heavy industry.
Check out brad Harrison 2 or 3 pin mini series.
Example
http://www.bradharrisonsales.com/mc_2-6p_stoow_us.htm
If I had a deck stepped mast in salt water this is what I would use, and
probably rather than a chassis
Lol... Agreed Steve but in this case i tend to think of it as the lawyer state
rather than nanny state. (WAs so boggled by this sort of thing at one point
that I put a label on my 6" bench vise that says 'caution - do not eat'. ).
I don't think fusing the main house bank cable is such a
Thanks For the thorough reply Tim, valuable and extensive detail there, and
some food for thought. I do understand the operation of the acr and the
goals/theory of overcurrent protection, as well as voltage drop/cable ampacity
more than my already-too-long post might infer.
Thanks for the
...a really nice boat that should not need any major projects for a while."
I must admit that made me smile also.
FYI - according to Bristol marine here in Toronto, The 41, 33-2, and 35-3 are
models susceptible to the sinking mast step syndrome. Caveat emptor! (Having
repaired early onset
Thanks Paul, Edd.
My original refrigerAtion unit (nova cool?) is still working so I had not
planned to tackle that quite yet. Will research Engels and Adler Barbour. Is
the upgrade worthwhile or is this really something to consider once replacement
is necessary?
The all in one approach
Just did this for N2k cables in std small guard. I drilled with regular has
bits but centre punched and piloted first (1/8") - slow speed did not work
well. Then drilled final hole size (two adjacent for oval) and cleaned up with
a conical stone on a dremel.
Dave
Windstar 1985 33-2
>
>
>
ith the shaft spinning to slowly or
transmission not fully engaged. Sorry that I'm not offering any new solutions
here but just commiserating.
Tom Lynch
Bayfield WI
IndoIrish
On Thu, Jun 16, 2016 at 10:48 AM, Dave via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
wrote:
Alan,
My gear shift linkage is t
Alan,
My gear shift linkage is totally different with the cable coming in from
forward of the lever through a bracket. Its pretty obvious that I need only to
remove the lever rotate it 180 degrees and reattach it to make forward be
forward again.
I'm guessing that if the vibration was due
I purchased my boat, a 1984 35Mk3 three years ago. The first season the boat
would vibrate badly when I'd slow down under power. I'd put it in reverse,
throw it into forward (ouch) and things would be fine. The blades always opened
initially when I motored off the mooring but if I slowed down
Josh,
What's the advantage of adding an auxiliary solenoid to the starting circuit?
Dave J
Saltaire
C 35Mk3
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List"
To: "C List"
Cc: "Josh Muckley"
Thanks Russ - Makes sense, and yes, once explained and I think for a moment,
it seems crazy that the clutch itself would be dependent on or even subject to
the prop's thrust load. So the question of 'why' remains one of life's
mysteries
Dave
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 09 Jun 2016 19:01:13
Your description has me 90% certain you have a bad ground from the wiring
harness to the engine. On my 2gm this was a large ring terminal attached to or
above the stArter iirc. Your multimeter may fool you as you are getting some
conductivity. Inspect, Clean/de oxidize that grounding point
At the boat and would like to avoid taking apart the panel to find out...
Anyone know the trip ratings of the stockvhf and instrument breakers? Tx!
Dave
Sent from my iPhone
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
Graham.
If you could post photos of your rudder rebuild I'd appreciate that. I'm
guessing it's similar to the 37 but would like to be sure.
Thanks,
Dave J
Saltaire
CC35 MK3
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: Graham Collins via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Ryan.
Your results look great. How many hours would you guess you put into the paint
job?
Dave J
Saltaire
CC35 MK3
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle
Sent: Thu, 26 May 2016
Mine has shims in the mast step to adjust the height. As another posted, a
fully tensioned rig may make it Impossible to align the holes.
Subject: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2
When I was rigging my new to me 33-2 we couldn't locate one of the the mast
collar tangs so I had a
Bingo, saddle clamp in locker. Couldn't believe it when I first saw it, seems
crude. Mine is fairly tight and always left me wondering if two (each less
tight) would be preferable. Can't help thinking there's got to be a better
way
Dave
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 17:31:12
For the record, my comments on lapping of the mating surface apply to the
kanzaki box that is typical with the Yanmar 20gm.
As to the question of adjustment - for sure verify the basics are within spec
first - oil, play in controls, etc. If however the adjustment is used to cheat
- like
I replied earlier in haste, but another clue here is the forward-reverse thing
as well as the low rpm banging only.
The shifter moves a bronze clutch back and forth, this has a conical surface on
each each end that mates with one mating female cone for forward, and the
other mating female
Joel,
Congrats. Although we've never met face to face I've appreciated and put to use
much of the wisdom you've shared with the group and only hope it does indeed
continue.
Best Wishes,
Dave
Saltaire
C 35 MK3
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: "Joel Aronson via CnC-List"
Not in the two years I've owned and raced the boat. Perhaps if I had a blade.
Dave
Saltaire
C 35 MK3
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: "Doug Allardyce via CnC-List"
To: "CnC- List"
Cc: "Doug Allardyce"
he ones I
> find are all too long.
>
> Dave J
> "Saltaire"
> C 35 MK 3
>
> Bristol, RI
>
> From: "Dave via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "Dave" <syerd...@gmail.com>
> Sent: Monday,
The manual pump is original. Still available.
Dave 33-2 windstar
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2016 11:22:22 -0300
From:
To:
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue
Message-ID:
Content-Type:
Can someone post a photo of their C with stainless grab rails?
Thanx,
Dave
C MK3
Saltaire
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: "Ken Heaton via CnC-List"
To: "cnc-list"
Cc: "Ken Heaton"
Sent: Friday, March
Canada composites in Mississauga - ask for JP - you will get great advice, ship
within Canada. Busy place, they turn inventory fairly frequently.
Dave
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sam Salter
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2016 12:46 PM
To:
On Mar 1, 2016, at 7:45 AM, Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> In my window replacement project I've removed the old windows, most of the
> old adhesive, done a fair degree of damage to the gel coat and created one
> small chip in the surrounding fiberglass.
Hi Doug - went through this think myself, I had the std 33-2 setup of 2 group
31 (I think... Could be 34). Deep cycle flooded batteries (batt 1 and 2) and
an added xantrex smart charger.
Got some advice from a backup power designer
Will parallel the existing batteries and add a u1 start
In my window replacement project I've removed the old windows, most of the old
adhesive, done a fair degree of damage to the gel coat and created one small
chip in the surrounding fiberglass. There is a layer of old adhesive (brown)
between the two windows (and a section where the adhesive came
If Steve elects to not take the Autohelm please contact me since I'd definitely
be interested.
Dave
C 35 MK3
Saltaire
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: "sthoma20--- via CnC-List"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: sthom...@bellnet.ca
Sent: Friday,
No such thing as an agile front row
Dave
C 35 Mk3
Saltaire
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: "Mike via CnC-List Hoyt"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Mike Hoyt"
Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2016 8:39:01 AM
Subject: Re:
Martec sells a geared prop, the Slipstream. When I asked how it compares with
the Flexfold the only thing they came up with was that it was all stainless
steel. The difference in price, $1929 versus $1205 for the Flexfold is pretty
substantial especially if the only differentiation is the
Tim,
What is the pitch on the Flexfold you replaced the Martec with? also was it a
16"?
Dave
C 35 MK3
Saltaire
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Tim Goodyear"
Sent:
-List Propeller Question for 35-3
Dave,
Which Flex prop are you getting? Do you have a Yanmar 3 GM30F engine?
Am looking at replacing my prop.
Thanks
Brian
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2
I'm with Tim. I had my Martek rebuilt last spring and was really disappointed
because even after the rebuild it wouldn't always open evenly. I'm replacing it
with a FlexFold. By the way reverse was OK you just need to get use to it.
Dave
C 35 MK 3
Saltaire
Bristol, RI
- Original
I know this topic's been beat to death and I have every suggestion on what
adhesive/tape to use and how to install the new windows. But, I don't have the
emails saying how to get the old windows out. A large exacto blade worked great
taking out the sealant but not so much on the underlying,
Used 3/16 black acrylic, wet sanded with 400 grit to a matte finish. Looks
good. Brother p-touch to label panel, and wires also with special labels.
Labelled and routed all wires and secured with cable ties. Replaced my analog
voltmeter with victonix battery monitor. Fits existing hole
Agreed on ventilation. We had a venture 22 20 years ago that had minor
condensation issues. I added a single passive dome vent to the foredeck,
issue solved. It takes very little but constant air movement to make a real
improvement. Most production boats are very poor in this regard imo.
Have dealt with their Whitby shop many times. Good guys, very helpful. They
also repair and fabricate poly tanks.
Dave
Hi Ed,
Thanks for the warning. I think I will avoid the
Troana Boat Show... most of the others offer a discount. :)
Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
At 03:25
Here is the link
http://power.cummins.com/sites/default/files/literature/technicalpapers/PT-7015-NoiseSolutions-en.pdf
Subject: Re: Stus-List 10. Re: Acoustic insulation in Canada (Dreuge)
Message-ID:
<132847350.520834.1452380620089.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
In my 33ii
Had been thinking of using my rarely-used shower pan drain pump and connecting
it to a diverter valve which would select between the bilge and the shower.
Would plumb a hose and wire a float switch in the bilge, with a solid state
relay by the existing switch in the head, wired
ereading Wanderer, by Sterling Hayden. Great great book!
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
> On Dec 30, 2015, at 17:37, Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
>
> Just finished 'M
Just finished 'Moxie' by Phil weld - great book, impressive man.
In the same vein, about t re-read 'around the world alone' by Alain Colas.
Sent from my iPhone
___
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including
Pretty pleased with two blade folding gori on my 33-2.
st [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe at
Zialater via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2015 11:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe at Zialater
Subject: Stus-List Folding prop for 30-1 with A4
My 1975 30-1, Zia
Anybody know of a skilled but reasonable shop in the GTA ? Thanks.
Dave
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Oops - sorry frank, another too hasty reply from work...Agreed with other
poster, drill from both sides. As suggested, Good practice to score one side
first anyway to prevent splintering.
> On Dec 11, 2015, at 12:23 PM, Dave Syer wrote:
>
> Frank - How about knocking
I keep a manual hand drill on the boat- yard sale item, I use it fairly
often. Batteries never die.
Dave
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2015 20:24:11 -0600
From: "Dennis C."
To: CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat tools
Message-ID:
Very interesting battery banter. For me the best flooded U1 is probably the
way to go, I bet I can fit that with the existing batteries under the qb. .
450 cca, and the same charging profile as my grp 31 flooded house bank. (The
xantrex charger makes you select one one profile for all
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