Joe, to build on what Joe Bognar said, Genco is close to thousands of
interesting things to do depending on when and what your interests are. There
is an in water boat show in Port Credit at the end of August but Fri-Sun,
hockey hall of fame, theatres, museums, Jays baseball, it really is endles
Gary, I was able to repair my igniter. It had a bad ( corroded) ground wire
under the stove at the battery holder. Any chance yours has the same issue? It
was a simple repair a few years ago.
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On.
___
This
Bruce, For what its worth, I had my steering cable break in a squall. I was 50
miles civilization but maybe 5-10 miles from a sheltered cove. I could not have
steered long with the emergency tiller and there was no way to get parts.
The cable was loose and rode up on the quadrant wheel cutting i
I am considering some auxiliary heat, either a Dickinson propane fireplace or a
diesel forced air unit like an Espar. I guess I am looking for the best fit for
our 37+ but leaning towards a propane fireplace. Both have advantages. What do
you guys think?
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Sent
Christian, I have had success putting a thin ring of B tape around the bolt and
I never tighten the bolt, I only turn the nut from below and hold the bolt from
turning. 2 person job but that’s what it takes. There is usually lots of tape
below the rail. When you turn the bolt it breaks the seal
David, I am catching up on my email this morning. I recently replaced my
running lights with LEDs and I have the bolt you are looking for. Ron said he
may have one and he may have already solved your bolt issue. Let me know if you
still need one.
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On.
__
Mike, Maybe it doesn’t need to be said but fuses are overlooked in newly
installed boat batteries and electrical charging systems. Also make sure the
wire is marine grade wire and large enough to carry maximum charging amps the
distance required. Sorry if that’s a repeat after the course you too
Daryl, Our boat is an 89 37+ with a universal diesel. It came with a 2 blade
max prop, less drag, totally adjustable and full power in reverse because it
articulates. Maybe call the salvage yards in Florida if your are heading south?
They should have a selection of used props when you figure out
Edd, I know you said pump but if you have a boom vang cylinder and plan to take
it to a non marine shop, make sure you tell them it’s spring loaded!!!
Len
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each an
I installed a drip less shaft seal about 7 or 8 years ago when I replaced my
cutlass bearing. Like Josh said I opted to not install the vent hose, it came
with a nylon plug. It has worked flawlessly. I burp the air out on launch and
if I get air bubbles in the hose for any reason I can clearly h
I had a 1981 36 and I am not positive but believe the port was made by Bomar.
It was plastic with black closure knobs, had a lip on the outside maybe 1 inch.
Either way, I got a new direct replacement at HMP in Toronto.
Len Mitchell
C&C 37+
Crazy Legs
Midland On.
Sent from my mobile device.
Beckson! Yes Bomar is probably the front hatch. Peter at HMP in Toronto will
probably have one. If anyone knows where to find hull number 216, it was 1981
36 KCB in Iceland Blue, I have the manual and build file.
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 C&C 37+
Midland On
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___
David, Just thought I would share, I have a Universal M35 and always had oil
spray and an odour of oil in the engine compartment. I put an automotive style
catch can from Jeggs and a better air filter on the engine from K&N which
completely solved the problem. I get about 1/2 ounce of oil a year
Tim, I was able to do everything I needed by just removing those 8 screws when
I had a 36. I have seen some boats where they put a new piece of dark plexi
glass on top of the wood and it looks nicely finished.
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Thanks everyone fo
Dennis, Yes I have done it in our 1981 36. You need to remove the lid and
reinstall it with ss hinge(s), it’s screwed on from below and you may be able
to get there from the inspection port with a long arm. I used a suitable piece
of cardboard sono tube for a mold and wrapped it with glass and e
Tim, I still have the manuals and build file for our 1981 36KCB, hull # 216
(Incision). I had a look and the pendant part # was 074616 but there are no
dimensions or drawings other than winch location. Maybe call Southshore Yachts,
they should know where to find it. Or Mars keels as a plan B. If
Nathan,
I have been getting the inspection ports from Holland Marine Products in
Toronto, he will ship them to you if necessary. Peter stocks some C&C parts and
roto welds tanks too. There is an online catalogue as well.
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
C&C 37+
Midland On.
Sent from my iPad__
Paul, A friend had a similar problem with his Yanmar. Have you inspected the
connection between the gauge package and the engine? It’s a large wire
connector that usually gets left under the engine in a dark damp spot. If you
get it apart and clean up the connections you may be surprised how cor
Mike, I had a 1981 36 KCB and in the 10 years I had it, never had an issue with
the board. I would have liked to seal the cast iron board with epoxy or
something else but never got the chance. Fresh water makes a big difference and
I would consider where the boat was going to be sailed before de
I asked Maritimetees.net out of California if they would build t shirts with
the 37+ line drawings and logo. 20 minutes later they are on order and appeared
online. The owner Don is a C&C fan. There are probably lots of places selling
them but I haven’t seen them before, thought I would share.
Listers, I have a Raymarine telephone style outdoor mic cord that has suffered
some UV damage. The cord is 9 wire coiled and hard to find. I tried Raymarine
and they no longer sell replacement cords. Can anyone suggest a supplier for a
minimum of 9 conductor coiled wire?
Len Mitchell
Crazy Leg
Chuck, my 37+ is a wing keel. The specs say 5 foot 11 inches but she is a solid
6 foot 2 inches. If draft is an issue KCB was an option and somewhere around 5
feet.
Great boat either way. Any specific questions, there are quite a few of us on
the list.
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midlan
35-1. Poof! Here's the link:
>>
>> https://maritimetees.net/products/c-c-35-1-t-shirt
>> <https://maritimetees.net/products/c-c-35-1-t-shirt>
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 4, 2018 at 5:
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>
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Sorry about the blank reply earlier!!!
Noah, X 3 re a Mars bulb. The only thing I would caution you about is the 37R
keel, from what I have read, some of the 37Rs had voids in the keel filled with
sand and/or filler to reduce weight. I think I would sound your keel with a
small hammer to make s
If you are having issues finding a copy, I use AbeBooks.com, they are a used
book site and you can find out of circulation books by searching the name or
author. You will be able to have a copy mailed to you for around 10 USD. Just
pick the one in the best condition or maybe if you are lucky the
Richard, you could have a different spar but I would try Offshore Spars or
Klacko Spars and I would bet Dan at Klacko probably provided your mast to C&C
originally. Len
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contribut
After all the talk about hydraulics last week I noticed both my backstay
cylinders are leaking a little around the top seal. I have one cylinder working
harder than the other too which is a problem. I put together the parts needed
to rebuild them and thought someone may benefit from knowing the
Bruce, my cylinders are A250 but there are different size A250s. Navtec lists
all and you can use the dimensions online to identify what you have. I
originally ordered the parts from Navtec or Southshore, can’t remember for
sure, too close to 60 and they sent parts for an 89 37+. The cost was
r
Does anyone have a DIY solution for a screen to fit a Lewmar inside opening
port? Delivering a boat with 12 X 5 or 6 inch ports. Len
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one
Joe, there was quite a discussion on this subject maybe a year ago and you
should be able to find it in the archives. Mine was Raymarine and installed at
the factory and has worked flawlessly. They glassed a shelf unit for the drive
on the SB side and cut the rudder tube and glassed a gusset or
Chuck, we primarily use our slightly heavier #2 for the Great Lakes and furl as
necessary (above 20-25 kms). Believe it’s a 144% sail. A # 3 I find too small
and a # 1 too big. FWIW She will carry lots of sail but the #2 seems like a
good balance even when sailing short handed. Congratulations y
Maurice,
For what its worth, here is what I did for the Great Lakes. Our 37+ has the
light array too but like Ken says it must have been an option. I had a small
holding tank and 3 water tanks. I converted our port side water tank to holding
and put a tank monitor on both holding tanks that jus
Thanks for all the replies, you guys are awesome! This cover has been on for 8
winters and the boat has been on the hard since September. I will probably try
Kover Klamps after some more research with the links supplied. They are 5$ each
and can be retrofit with the tarp in place. I may be incor
I think the CBA would work well so far from the little reading I have done. I
have four 6 volt deep cycle batteries for my house bank and a Link monitor. I
also have a simple analogue load tester. The problem is the solar panel masks
any shortfall in the bank by fully charging usually before I m
Dennis, I have had a K&N filter on ours for probably 8 years now. They claim
the technology provides better air flow than the OEM filter too. To build on
your post, I installed a small automotive air/oil separator from Jegs on the
crank case breather hose to eliminate fine mist and oil odour in
Bruce, I have the same pump as you. I don't think it uses enough power to worry
about when checking for water, the pump motor doesn't run, it only powers a
sensor. It also has a test button. I like the small size with relatively large
capacity. Float systems have disadvantages, they can fail too
You can buy closed cell foam which will not get saturated with water, it's
harder to find but available. Len
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make a contribution to offset our costs
Bruce, do you have a wiring diagram for your boat in the owners manual? Mine is
1989 but I can scan and send you a diagram and maybe you can compare to the 94
version wiring. All mine comes up by the battery selector switch and then
crosses to the batteries. They will all be different depending
Ron, The answer to your question is no, nothing special about the hoses or
fittings. Regular hoses work fine. If they used stainless wire wrapped hose,
the price jumps up higher. UV takes out the hose no matter what type. I have a
hydraulic boom vang and had a sacrificial shortie made up so I d
I am refinishing some of the worn teak inside the cabin around the galley sink
rail etc. Does anyone know what product was originally used by C&C? I would
like to be able to replicate the finish without having to refinish all of the
interior. Our teak looks almost new with only a couple exceptio
Nice install Andy! That looks really well done. Curious how many amps you are
getting in full sun. Len
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to
Bruce, our last two boats came with a two bladed Max prop. They are adjustable
and give plenty of power in reverse, stops on a dime coming into the slip and
pulls slightly to port. We have no issues reaching hull speed either. The 1981
36KCB was Atomic 4 powered and the 1989 37+ is a Universal M
Bruce, our 1989 37+ has a 3 inch inline style blower that sits just below the
manual bilge pump and exits in the walk thru transom beside our shore power
inlet. A 3 inch plastic flex pipe can be installed on the centre line into the
engine box. There is a remarkable difference in the main cabin
Blair, one thing worth mentioning is tank construction, some boats of that
vintage including ours came with an aluminum holding tank. The PO used a
chlorine odour product and the tank disintegrated along the bottom edge. If
yours is plastic, that’s better than aluminum and I would check the insp
The rendezvous was another big success! Thanks to Josh and Carmelita for
organizing and the rest of the attendees for contributing to the fun,
refreshments, food etc. We really enjoyed the C&Cers and St Michaels and are
already looking forward to next year! We had a blue crab picking, eating les
Josh, we will get to the rendezvous wherever the group decides it is. The only
weekend we could not attend would be the weekend of Oct 3 due to our northern
haul out. If you can find a location with a pavilion or building close by to
get out of the weather, that would be a big plus as the rendez
One of the most useful diagnostic tools for me is a clamp on AC/DC ammeter.
That may tell you what amperage it’s popping at. You put it on AC amps and just
clamp it over one leg. Mine will hold the highest recorded amperage. I also use
it to more accurately read how much DC the solar panel is p
Joe, while the whaler would work in the Erie Canal or the Trent Severn Canal
system, it doesn’t give you much exposure to the Great Lakes. If you are on the
Great Lakes and the weather picks up, it can get quite rough. The waves are
close together and steep, without the large swells you get ocea
Edd, BOTH the anti siphon valve and head check valve have to be malfunctioning
as others have said to have the bowl fill with clear water. Black water would
be a joker valve issue if you use your holding tank.
We also have an issue with the V berth sink on a port tack filling with water
so I in
Bruce, the head valve and/or the anti siphon valve stop the flow of clear water
into the head. Therefore both of them would have to fail. I would check your
anti siphon valve if I were you. It may be plugged or not open far enough to
let a little air in and stop the siphon effect. If you want to
How many boats still have the original $2 piece of rubber hose in service after
30 plus years? I bet the number is high. I haven’t heard of anyone sinking due
to a shaft seal hose breakdown but why risk it for $2. Len
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I found a plastic battery holder online for my Force 10 stove. It was on amazon
and a very inexpensive simple repair, good for another 30 years. Len
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Eac
Josh, Shawn is correct. The 6 inch or so piece of hose on the original packing
gland. I would bet a high number of boats still have it in service. Mine was 20
years old when I replaced it and the outer rubber layer had cracks in it. There
isn’t a lot of water pressure on it but it gets a little
Josh, I kept my packing gland for future use but you need the 1-1/8 shaft brass
packing gland, 4 clamps, a short piece of hose and appropriate sized and type
packing. If you need a pic or a hose measurement let me know.
I have self adhesive silicone tape and rigging tape on board as a possible
I installed a garboard plug this fall after more than 20 years without. I have
a dry bilge this winter and honestly regret not doing it sooner. It was only
about $25 and it took about a half hour. Magnets were used to locate and I
installed it flush with the keel stub. We are covered on the hard
Our bilge is shallow but not as shallow as a KCB model. I would install it low
in the keel stub. It would be best as low as you can and mine may be 1/4-1/2
inch off the bottom and it works fine. I would normally vacuum and sponge out
the bilge whenever it was above freezing but that was difficu
The way I have to look at it is based on being on the hard from October to May.
If I was in the water like Josh 11/12 months or Bob 12/12, I wouldn’t even look
at it. It wouldn’t make sense to me either and simply is not required. If you
have ever checked on your boat and found water just under
Bruce, our 1989 37+ had an Aqua signal tri light with strobe. Last summer I
replaced it with another aqua signal LED tri light, without the strobe. It
works great and it’s visible from a great distance but there are many choices.
Yours is probably an aqua signal but no guarantees. If it’s a ligh
Bruce, the plastic tri light lens pretty much disintegrated but it was 5 years
older than yours! I think the regs say an all round light installed where it
can best be seen so there is some flexibility but remember a mast head light
illuminates the top rigging too. At night in an anchorage where
Tom, I sent pics of the factory installed linear drive to you and or Gary more
than a year ago. Let me see if I can find them again and you can verify.
Len
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each a
My 37+ has a vented loop behind the vanity. I converted the port side water
tank to holding for the Great Lakes. I installed a check valve in the aft sink
but shut off the v birth sink when sailing using a 1/4 turn valve in the drain.
It’s pretty easy to bury the rail in a blow. I try to reduce
Dennis,
I had a 1981 36 KCB and fabricated a second propane locker. The seat will be
screw fastened from below. I used appropriate diameter and length cardboard
sono tube as a template. I used glass and west system epoxy. I cut the hole
with a jig saw if memory serves and used the cut out as a
I had to use the e tiller once on our 37+. The wheel had to be removed.
Conditions were 45+ knots of wind and significant waves during a line squall
coincidently between two major shoals. You will likely find the relatively
short tiller too short for significant leverage. Removal of the pedestal
Tim, I had a 1981 C&C 36KCB a decade ago and I believe Klacko Marine in Ontario
originally provided that spar. If Dan is still working he will likely be able
to answer any question about it. If not his son is very knowledgeable too. I
believe there is Klacko marine and Klacko spars. Try calling
When replacing the original ribbed hose or even drain hose I use the reinforced
clear vinyl beverage hose. It’s strong, flexible enough and will be easier to
source too.
Len
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your con
John, I had to use a socket on the end of the prop shaft and pressed the
coupling off using longer bolts and nuts of the same size. Some folks have
actually cut theirs but with 2$ worth of bolts you can press it off quite
easily if there is enough room. Check your cutlass bearing if you are goin
John, I have a puller too but was able to generate more force using the socket
and bolts but to be honest my puller is a pretty low quality princess auto
tool. I may have tapped the coupling with a small hammer when I had some
pressure on it too. Len
Sent from my iPad
> On May 19, 2020, at 9:
Does anyone have pictures of their Auto Pilot linear drive installation to the
quadrant? So mounted in the port side lazarette. I have below deck pics. TIA
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On.
Sent from my mobile device.
___
Thanks everyone
Ken, if it’s not too much trouble I would appreciate a pic from the inside of
the lazarette. This is not for Crazy Legs, I shared pics of our factory
installation a while back. Ours is connected to the rudder post. I am helping a
boat buddy and his boat will not work with the rudder post install
Bruce, I doubt you will see two grounded the same but my shunt is as high as
possible in the bilge at the bottom of the companionway steps beside the engine
intake thru hull. You may just have to follow your wires. Crazy Legs is a 1989
and has an original link battery monitor with a charger inve
Wedges can be easily made out of oak or a similar hard wood. I leave a lip on
top so they don’t fall inside the boat and stay where you put them. Any wood
shop can make them. I also use oak shims in a fat T pattern to keep the mast
base in the appropriate spot at the bottom and help the mast kee
I am in the process of redoing my plexiglass ports, it’s the second boat I have
done and the second time was way easier. If you are trying to remove the glass,
try a small thin flexible scraper wherever the glass is loose and separate the
glass from the plexus epoxy by pulling the scraper around
Hi Joel, Welcome! You can find a few home built tools on YouTube or by
searching online. Removing the bearing is easier with the shaft out imho. I
believe my tool is a piece of 3/8 threaded rod and nuts with large flat washers
and a 1/2 inch socket the appropriate size. There is also be a piece
Has anyone come up with an innovative solution for wine storage on a 37/40? It
would be nice to have enough room in the coolish bilge but there isn’t room.
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On.
Sent from my mobile device.
___
Thanks everyon
Chris, we do use the table but not for wine. Single malt doesn’t mind the heat.
I am considering building something under the V. I am looking for storage for
probably 12 bottles. I was just looking for ideas because someone has already
done it I am sure!
Len
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_
Edd, what do you need to know. Lewmar 1x ocean 70 and 4x ocean 20. I am on the
boat but can measure hatches or send you the specs for them. I have covers on
the 70 and 2 20s. They are snap domed onto the aluminum frames. If you need a
pic let me know and I will PM send it. It really makes a diff
I replied to Jim via PM with a page to help identify his hatch. I have one
hinge left in my inventory but I also need it for an ocean 20 hatch.
My question is this for you techies: can my hinge be replicated on a 3D
printer? And if so what’s involved?
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On
Charlie, I will add to Edd’s post. I have a different system and would suggest
you find the closest place to connect to power. Battery, battery switch, ACR or
other. You need to make sure the connection is solid, fused and that the wire
is appropriately sized. I am running a power share relay/mo
Charlie, I will add to Edd’s post. I have a different system and would suggest
you find the closest place to connect to power. Battery, battery switch, ACR or
other. You need to make sure the connection is solid, fused and that the wire
is appropriately sized. I am running a power share relay/m
I run at 2200 rpms and get 6.5 knots. That’s where she is smooth but working a
little. It feels like the sweet spot. She will get 7+ if I add throttle but
vibrates more and makes more noise. Every 37+ could be a little different
depending on drive train. Universal M35 and a 2 blade max prop at 2
Edd, I use the hidden cupboard in the starboard side seating in front of the
HWT. The first aid kit is over the V berth vanity and V berth sink. If you cut
yourself that sink is handy for repairs!
Len
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___
Thanks everyone
Rob, love your design, great job! Wine storage is maybe the only area that
needs improvement! Just another first world problem! We have been suffering so
long too. Insert sarcastic grin here! X
Len
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___
Thanks everyone for
Chuck, be sure and let us know how it works. I am changing the plexi glass in
the sea hood and slider next and the white silicone had me concerned that it
was a bigger job than I thought. I wondered why it was there and core explains
it. I would also over drill and use unthickened epoxy then thi
I sent email to Lewmar support about getting some spares. I was looking for
the thin plastic trim kit for an Ocean 70 and it retails for 475$ cdn! That is
an incredible cost for what it is IMHO. I also asked about the roll stop hinge
kits. They are not available any longer. I asked if they woul
I sent email to Lewmar support about getting some spares. I was looking for
the thin plastic trim kit for an Ocean 70 and it retails for 475$ cdn! That is
an incredible cost for what it is IMHO. I also asked about the roll stop hinge
kits. They are not available any longer. I asked if they woul
Ken, thanks, HMP in Toronto was my first stop. They have a good selection of
C&C parts and coincidently they were the ones I used for the crazy high trim
kit quote and I trust they don’t mark parts up that far. It’s a Lewmar parts
pricing issue. I found a plastic 37+ holding tank at HMP when my
Bruce, I would cut a 6 inch marine access cover in the cabinetry under the sink
before I drained the sink into the bilge. I have the same battery area you do
and I had to install an in-line valve under the sink, (I had water in the sink
when heeled over at hull speed). Your post has made me reth
Bob, I think cancelling the 2020 Mid Atlantic rendezvous is the right thing to
do. Better now that at the last minute. It’s just not worth the risk. We attend
from Ontario and I doubt the border will even be open by October. We are
definitely going to miss it and the great friends we have made b
David, there is not supposed to be Teflon tape used on any propane lines. There
should be an O ring on the left hand thread male connector that seals the
tapered seat. With the corrosion on your connector I would suggest you go to a
modern right hand thread connector like your BBQ tank or check
The thought process behind not using Teflon tape on natural gas or propane was
that if a piece of tape was cut off by pipe threads it would end up in a gas
orifice downstream and block a burner or alter a pressure regulator. Now to
qualify that statement, it’s from trade school 100 years ago and
Bruce, For what its worth, I have been using a tack block shackled to a hole
where your retaining pin is, same as Kevin has done on his 30. I take my tack
line straight back and thru the deck organizer to the coach roof winch array. I
use a chute scoop sock too and jibe outside the forestay ever
We had a lot of fun at Annapolis this year. We drove about 10 hours and it was
well worth the drive. Nice people and good times. It’s nice to put a face to
people on an email forum. So that said, we would make the drive anywhere in the
area. A venue would be a plus if it was raining. I can’t tha
Brian, We reef around 20 knots. Too much heel is uncomfortable for the crew and
inefficient. We have an autopilot with a rudder indicator so it’s easy to see
when our rig is balanced (less rudder angle). We reef the main first like
someone already said and idk if 22 degrees of heel is fastest bu
Chris, I have a swing arm in my box of boat hardware. I will pm a pic and if
you want to pay the shipping cost, it is yours! My plotter is permanently
mounted and I will never use it.
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
Midland On
Sent from my mobile device.
__
David, what belt are you using? I do not have the same configuration as you but
changed from solid belts to the saw tooth style and my belts last at least
twice as long. They seem to shed the heat better.
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On
Sent from my iPad
__
Bailey, just to add to what Josh said there should be 1 or 2 grease caps under
the cockpit floor to lube the rudder shaft. You turn the caps CW periodically
to force grease into the tube. I can't remember if I reached in there from the
foot of the quarter berth but I believe so. They are 3/4 or
John, the 37+ has a baby stay in front of the mast that a metal shackle or a
knot sometimes gets caught on. Soft shackles work great. Your 1/2 inch sheet is
good for about 10,000#. 1/4 inch dyneema core made into a soft shackle about
12,000#
Give or take plenty strong enough. You do need loops i
If you are using foam try, to get the closed cell variety. The open cell gets
water logged from any condensation.
Dennis try Canadian beer, you won't need as many! Labatt maximum ice 7.2%
Len
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___
Thanks everyone for suppor
Tim, I would recommend you check the shaft for true while you have it out, roll
it on a flat surface like a granite countertop if you don’t have access to a
shop. You need to eliminate all vibration. I would look at changing the prop if
it doesn’t come back vibration free and do the final engine
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