Hi Steve:
I pretty much go along the lines Don laid out. I think there are very
few original 10/10 radios out there and they are not obtainable by me.
There are some that are restored to claimed 10/10 but that is an
endless debate. Just like classic cars.
I have a half a room full of
As long as we are on the C4, is there a source for a replacement digital
clock? Mine is getting a tad noisy, and the second wheel decal with the
numbers is coming apart. Otherwise the unit is perfect.
K0GFY R. Hunter Ellington
303-454-0543/720-560-8139
P.O. Box 44
Larkspur, CO 80118
Thanks to all for the comments.
Most of you are more or less validating what I had already arrived at. I am
thinking, at this point, of giving it a decent cleaning and alignment and
selling it as it is - sort of like a Model A Ford with a manifold heater and an
electric wiper.
It wasn't
I am usually amazed at how well the copper chassis clean up with simple aids
like 409 and Charlie's Soap (wonderful stuff only available in my area of NC).
I've seen the Flitz-and-Dremel (or should that be Flitz-und-Dremel ;-) )
technique on WB4HFN's website and am still a little disappointed
Hi Steve,
I have had some limited success with Naval jelly. It seems to stop and
remove the rust pretty well. Like you said, it isn't going to look like
new. Whatever damage the rust did will still be there (pitting, bare
steel etc.).
But, it is much cleaner looking after it is cleaned up.
Steve, et al,
Yes, it does well to be an informed shopper and ask the right questions,
request pics, etc. but there is still the issue of the integrity of the seller.
That is, if the seller is not honest you might not get honest answers. More
than one auction and online seller has used
I wonder if anyone has ever tried a product called 'Rub-N-Buff'?? It's a waxy substance that is
used to 'restore' metallic objects, and comes in 'Antique Brass', 'OLD COPPER', Silver, etc.,
etc.. It looks great, but I don't know how well it would fare under hot chassis operation.
When
I have not tried it on a Drake chassis, but have had good performance
with a product called Nevrdull. It comes in a can and is cotton wadding
with some sort of solvent on it. It is non abrasive, and does a great
job on silverware and Harley exhaust pipes.
Steve WA9JML
Hello to the group.
John Kriner sent me an e-mail advising that the R. L. Drake Co. has
discontinued repair service of the PRN-1000, the SW-1, the SW-2, and the SW-8
receivers. I didn't check, but I assume this information is also on their
web-site.
73,
Thanks, Bob. I'm going to experiment a little with this R-4B that I'll be
selling. It will be getting disassembled this evening prior to its bath.
Before I dunk it (actually I don't dunk them - but they DO get wet!) I'm
going to trace all the mods that the PO did and mark up a copy of the
- Original Message -
From: Steve Berg wa9...@tbc.net
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 11:05 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration
I have not tried it on a Drake chassis, but have had good
performance with a product called Nevrdull. It
Yep - just want to make it nice. I guess I'll find out if it helps me get
more for it. At this point, I just don't want to sell at a loss. I still
want to clean it and align it - just because I enjoy doing that. I just
won't go to great lengths. I still need to figure out what the extra
I have not tried it, but seem to remember a discussion of Kroil oil as
loosening the rust spots so you can gently clean them away. Not sure if this
was just talk or actual results.
Anyone tried it?
73,
Ron WD8SBB
--- On Tue, 9/6/11, Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net wrote:
From: Steve
- Original Message -
From: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net
To: captc...@flash.net; Drake List
drakelist@zerobeat.net
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 3:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What would you do?
Yep - just want to make it nice. I guess I'll
My experience is...yes, you can clean it with various stuffbut if
the plating is gone...you really just have to live with it. If it's
gone I have found no way to improve the looks.
I just happened onto a B line with virtually no spotting.
But I have another that is moderate...they both
If its rusted the copper is gone anyway, clean away the rust the best you can
with a Dremel tool and scotch brite. Then coat the chassis with polyurethane,
worked for me.
73, Gary
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
I've put a couple of drops of WD-40 down the hole after bending one screwdriver
trying to get the setscrew backed out.
Has anyone used anything else to free a stuck screw? I'm now wondering if the
WD-40 might not swell the plastic, exacerbating the problem...
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
To be
Exactly what I'm thinking, Richard. Now the PTO knob is stuck as I can't
get the screw out. This is starting to look like a quickie clean and get
it out the door.
I did dig into the underside this evening and made some interesting
findings. The PO ran shielded cable all over the place for
Drill out the set screw and re-tap the knob once its removed ...
73. Gary___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Here is what John Kriner, via Bill Frost, has to say on the R-7 AGC alignment,
reprinted with permission:
---
Boy, this is a lot to digest. But I'll try to answer the questions as I see
them
AGC pedestal is left all the way CW. I have argued with some folks who
claim it
This is a fairly common problem.
The strike voltage of the neon lamp tends to drift upward with age. The
transistor used by Drake to switch the voltage does not have a high
breakdown voltage so Drake used a resistor voltage drop to reduce the
available voltage to barely enough to strike the
Clean adj the cable/jack for the PTO control signal on the two units.
73,
Lee
-Original Message-
From: Fred or Ski wb8...@frontier.com
To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Tue, Sep 6, 2011 11:05 pm
Subject: [Drakelist] R4B PTO indicator...
I have an intermittant PTO indicator
22 matches
Mail list logo
