Hi All
Thanks to Stephen, Mike Don for your replies.
I already had the KXV3A option fitted have now ordered the PR6-10 Preamp
another DB15 Y cable so I'll be ready to go!
73 de Ray G3XLG
-
Ray G3XLG
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Hi,
Seems impossible to buy the CM500 in the UK so I was hoping to pick up a set
when I'm in New York next February...anyone suggest a good source? I have
heard BH photo/video store is good and looks nice and central.
Also hoping to get a pair of Al stiffener plates for my (early) K3
synthesizer
Here's a good alternative I bought in UK as advised by Tom G3OLB, price
might have changed:
A good alternative I found for my K3, is the Koss SB/45, which is quite
comfortable during long periods of contest operation and has an excellent
quality electret mic. It's currently £20.98 free
OK, I see APP crimpers available from $10 to over $500. How much would you
expect to pay for a really good crimp tool?
Not trying to be snarky, I just need an honest answer. Some people say
regular pliers will work, but I would think this isn't the best solution.
Any suggestion for a good
Charlie,
No need to spend a lot. These are as close to bulletproof connections as
you get and you can get compatible jaws or a ton of connectors. Comes with
jaws for 15/30/45 amp APPs.
http://www.powerwerx.com/crimping-tools/tricrimp-crimping-powerpole-contact
s.html
Larry N9JY
--
Any
Charlie,
The crimpers sold by DX Engineering, Powerwerx, West Mountain Radio and
others are in the $40 range and work very well. You can also get other
dies for crimping pl-259's and other type connectors. Its a very
versatile tool.
An example
Hi to all,
wanted used P3.
Please offers from Europe on my e-mail bozida...@yahoo.de
73 Bozidar
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Jim AB3CV wrote
At this point my primary interest is 160m diversity implementations. Any
suggestions based on experience with an inverted L and beverage?
Jim, the inverted L plus Beverage should be an excellent combination while
using stereo diversity. That's exactly what I used in ARRL160.
Charlie,
The PowerWerx crimper is good. Just be certain to fill the cavity with
wire - for instance the 30 amp connectors are sized for #12 wire - if
the wire is smaller, it may be loose, so in addition to filling the
barrel with as many wire strands as I can, I add some solder for extra
I can vouch for the Tricrimp tool sold by West Mountain Radio. It appears the
same as PowerWerx in photos.
Does NOT add to diameter of barrel when crimped as soldering might. Good point
made by Don below; fill connector barrel with wire before crimping smaller than
#12.
I think cost new
I got mine from B H...
RJ
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Hi all,
I'm the proud owner of a K1-4 #1066 that appears to be working very well.
Based on the K1 RF main board, KFL1-4, and KAT1 versions listed below I was
wondering what other eprom revision updates and changes are available that I
should implementing.
K1 RF 2000 Rev D - MCU 1.09e
KFL1-4
A little off topic:
I wonder if any of you do what I do when using wires are too small
for crimp connectors? I strip twice as much insulation from the end
of the wire and then fold the bare wire over double. May have to
squeeze using small nose pliers to get it doubled tight enough to fit
On 12/11/2013 9:25 AM, KC4LRR wrote:
I got mine from B H
They are a dependable source. I've bought various things from them for
many years, always internet or mail order.
73, Jim K9YC
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Please help
And so is Sam Ash Music. $49.95 last time I bought and they shipped to
VK...:-)
On 12/12/2013 3:43 AM, Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com wrote:
On 12/11/2013 9:25 AM, KC4LRR wrote:
I got mine from B H
They are a dependable source. I've bought various things from them for
many years,
I prefer to have an assortment of pins: 15a, 30a, 45a. They're cheap so why
take shortcuts?
jim ab3cv
fill connector barrel with wire before crimping smaller than #12.
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I'm taking my K2 on the road and am worried about things being shaken up a bit
by engine vibration, etc. What do y'all think about a few blobs of hot melt
glue to hold coils and connectors in place? I can always soften the glue with
a heat gun and peel it off later as needed. Other than a
Yes, the doubling over method has worked very well for me (solderless)
with stranded wire and manual crimping. Holds very tightly.
-Paul, N1HEL
- Original Message -
From: Edward R Cole kl...@acsalaska.net
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 9:41 AM
Yes, they're a good source. If you intend to visit them in person, note
their store days/hours of operation.
/Rick
On Wed, Dec 11, 2013 at 9:42 AM, Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.comwrote:
On 12/11/2013 9:25 AM, KC4LRR wrote:
I got mine from B H
They are a dependable source. I've
Mike - NZ1MT wrote:
Based on the K1 RF main board, KFL1-4, and KAT1 versions listed below
I was wondering what other eprom revision updates and changes are
available that I should implementing.
K1 RF 2000 Rev D - MCU 1.09e
That's the latest version, AFAIK. It's been unchanged since 2001.
Craig,
I built a K2 that was used for many years in the cab of an 18 wheeler.
No special treatment of the toroids was applied and it worked FB over
those years. I (and Elecraft) recommend that no fixatives be applied.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 12/11/2013 12:53 PM, Craig Wadsworth wrote:
I'm
Mike,
You have already received information on the level of that K1, and I
would not see any need to upgrade the KAT1 firmware.
The maximum power output on 20 meters may be limited due to several
reasons, but the 5 watts does meet specifications. If the actual power
output matches the OUT
I don't usually do that because the wire exiting the APP barrel is still
just a small strand that flexes easily and can eventually break. It
gives you a lot more surface area for crimping, but needs strain relief
to be secure in the long run.
What I do is strip the wire the same length as
Thanks for the fast reply Mike!
I forget to mention My power supply puts out a rock solid 13.8V, K1 display
indicated 13.4V key down.
Will look into the other items thanks.
Mike - NZ1MT
On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 12:55 PM, Mike Morrow k...@earthlink.net
wrote:
Mike - NZ1MT wrote:
The problem comes with very small wire. I just acquired a YS-60
watt meter in a trade and it has wires that are too small for
the 15A pins. My solution was solder.
For high power connections, over 30A if I remember correctly,
the National Electric Code frowns on solder because they are
On 12/11/2013 9:42 AM, Jim Brown wrote about BH Photo as a source of
headphones for the K3:
They are a dependable source. I've bought various things from them for
many years, always internet or mail order.
Ditto experience. BUT - if one is in NYC, a visit to their enormous
store - just about
Hi Stew,
Even if you decide not to buy the CS500, BH is a great place to visit. It is
a tourist attraction in its own right. If you are a little interested in
Photography BH has the greatest collection of photographic equipment I have
ever seen.
Here is a movie (Ad) on BH:
Hi,
We are working on an older K2 (S/N 152) to fix apply some simple mods
and generally update things. After doing some straightforward mods
(control board exclusively) we decided to touch up the filter/BFO
alignment as the perceived bandpass seemed to be tuned a bit low.
It went very easily
I think cost new less than $50?
Why would I want to spend $50 (plus shipping, of course) for a crimper
when the soldering iron I already own works really well? Some of my
techniques:
1) The biggest inserts are the most difficult to use, so I use them only
for the #10 wire for which they
Alan, how do you float your L? My L is relatively close to my receiving
antennas, and I'd like to try that out and see if it makes a difference.
73,
Lou, W0FK
ai2n wrote
Additionally, you may want to float or detune your inverted L during rx,
especially if your rx antennas are close. My tx
Allan,
Not only is your range restricted, but likely the minimum and maximum
frequencies are not as indicated in the manual.
While your suspicions about the BFO crystals may be correct, there may
be other problems with soldering, L33 or the capacitors used.
For the easiest solution, order
Mike - NZ1MT wrote:
...My power supply puts out a rock solid 13.8V,
K1 display indicated 13.4V key down.
You likely already know that those two different voltages are
due to the normal voltage drop across the reverse polarity
protection diode RF-D16.
I neglected to mention that
I just disconnect the L from the coax center conductor AND the beta match coil
using a heavy duty open frame relay. Works for me. Make sure the relay
contacts get closed before the tx RF arrives. I use K6XX's relay accelerator
http://members.cruzio.com/~k6xx/radio/fastrely.pdf
73, Redd
Why? Simple. While you were doing all that, a guy with a proper crimper
would have completed the job, and be sipping his coffee waiting for you
to complete yours. If you had been in the field at the time, he might
have finished his coffee, and decided to loan you his crimper.
RC aircraft guys
I have been using and Expert 1K with my K3 for the last 4 years. A small and
excellent setup for an apartment.
My antenna is a compromise no resonant sloper on most of the HF bands, I
have an automatic MFJ tuner ahead of the amplifier. Even barefoot I never
need the antenna tuner on the K3.
It
I have all kinds of proper crimpers. They do a good job in many cases.
I have never been a fan of crimped RF connectors for VHF/UHF, however,
most commercial installers use them with great success. Remember, those
connections usually only need lives of a couple of years. In hamdom I
build
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 17:15:45 -0500, Bill W2BLC wrote:
I have all kinds of proper crimpers. They do a good job in many cases.
I have never been a fan of crimped RF connectors for VHF/UHF, however,
most commercial installers use them with great success. Remember, those
connections usually
Best is to size the terminal to the wire correctly, but your method
works just fine if you only need a pair and the terminal is too big.
I'm somewhat bewildered by all the APP problems being brought up. I
have the Powerwerx crimper, I've probably put together over 50 pairs of
APP's and I've
On 12/10/2013 8:27 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
Well, I HAVE heard of people going down to 10 meters. And 160 meters
didn't get the name top band for being down. But it's been a long, long
time since anyone I heard spoke in meters.
Been a ham since '52. Maybe it was my interest in the history of
Crimping the wire over the insulation doesn't seem too good to me.
I have used a dab of hot melt glue to stabilize the wire at the rear of the PP
Plastic.
...bill nr4c
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
EricJ eric_c...@hotmail.com wrote:
I don't usually do that because the wire
I agree. The point of a good crimper is to get a controlled force on the joint
to create a reliable mechanical-electrical joint. Putting something springy in
there, like insulation, is asking for trouble.
wunder
K6WRU
On Dec 11, 2013, at 3:48 PM, bill conkling n...@widomaker.com wrote:
On 12/11/2013 3:48 PM, bill conkling wrote:
Crimping the wire over the insulation doesn't seem too good to me.
I've been doing that for years. All of the peripherals that run with my
K2 (RigBlaster, PSKmeter, etc) have their connectors so made. Haven't
had any problems as long as one does not
Has anyone experienced this strange K3 Lockup problem?
For a second time my K3 locks up when I change bands while using N1MM. The
first instance was two weeks ago when I entered a 20m frequency while on 15
meters. The same thing happened today. After the first lock up I called
Elecraft and
I run a calibration lab. We use go-no go gauges to test crimpers. The allowed
tolerance for the gauges are three-ten thousands of an inch... yes good
crimpers are an accurate instrument... and they should only be used with
lugs/wire sizes specified for them
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE
My wife claims that ham radio operators only talk about boring subjects like
Antennas when they are on the air. I had to show her this latest stream on
crimpers to prove to her that life in ham radio is not only an adrenaline rush
but informative too.
On Dec 11, 2013, at 5:20 PM, Harlan
Phil,
Don't forget tuners, amps, and power supplies. Oh, let me not forget:
spectrum analyzers, ad infinitum.
73,
Bill
K9YEQ
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Hystad
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013
Hi Harlan,
Maybe if you could test and report on a few of the crimpers
sold in the ham market that would be informative. Especially on coax crimpers.
The good crimper frames show up on EBay for $75 to $100. New the dies are over
$100 per coax type. I like Kings.
KX3 production firmware rev 1.79 (with DSP rev 1.27) is now available. Since
the last production firmware release (1.61), we've made the following
improvements:
* Full support for KXPA100 amp and KXAT100 ATU
* More accurate power output control in SSB mode for settings under 2 W
*
The APP connectors offer support to prevent the wires flexing at the point
of entry to the connector *if* the correct size wire is used so the
insulation fits snugly.
If I felt compelled to use an undersize wire I'd add a sleeve where the
insulation enters the connector - maybe some wraps of
If you see ERR DSE on the KX3's LCD after attempting to load rev. 1.79
firmware, and/or KX3 Utility reports a load failure, try the following:
1. Tap the KX3's DISP button enough times for the ERR messages to go away.
2. On the KX3 Utility Firmware tab, View Menu, check “Advanced Mode”.
It's true !
Very good Phil...fascinating discussion.
73, F5VJC a Crimper
On 12 December 2013 02:39, Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com wrote:
My wife claims that ham radio operators only talk about boring subjects
like Antennas when they are on the air. I had to show her this latest
stream on
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