I want set up my K2 with some selctable PBT presets and perhaps just 2
filter widths. I frequently use +150 to +250 Hz with my other rig for narrow
1.8kHz filters. I am currently just using the KDSP2 filter with decreasing
filter widths and no offsets. What are K2 users favorite ways for
--- Mario Lorenz [EMAIL PROTECTED] ha scritto:
Peppino,
the customs tariff really is EU wide, the VAT is
not.
With the elecraft code, and the paperwork that once
was done
by the DARC you should be able to get your K2 kit
including
all options in easily at 0% Customs.
What is not EU
The manual says C1 (4.7 pF) shoud be mounted on the top side of the board,
which is also where it's outline is printed. But the schematic in Appendix
B indicates it should be 5pF and mounted on the bottom.
Can I savely assume the schematic to be wrong?
Bart de PA3GYU
In defense of the Ten Tec:
- The Century 22 is a design from about 20 years ago. A lot has changed!
- The C22 was the bottom-of-the-line for Ten Tec when it was made.Lots of
compromises in the design.
- IIRC, the C22 receiver is not a superhet like the K2 or K1. It's a form of
direct
Bart,
Yes, mount C1 on the top of the board and 4.7 pf is fine. The instructions
are updated more frequently than the schematics, so in case of disagreement,
follow the instructions.
With all Elecraft kits, the priority should be errata sheets first, manual
instructions second, and everything
I'm sold on Begali keys. But not sure which one to get. Has anyone used both
the Simplex and Magnetic Classic who might comment on the comparison? Also,
how about a Begali vs Schurr Profi comparo? If I had more dough, I would order
all three, but that is not the case here.
I have a
Peppino,
As a first, you're assuming the invoice total amount,
including shipping and handling (105 $): no VAT is due on
this part, normally.
That´s definitively wrong for whole EC. VAT has to be paid on Shipping cost
as well.
73 de Peter, DL2FI
I said:
QSK in the C22 is not as good as the K2. The C22 gives thumps and
pops
in the headphones and speaker during QSK. K2 is far smoother and
quieter.
Ron Replied:
I am surprised! Ten Tec is known for QSK rigs.
Perhaps some aging components are in need of service.
Well, it could be
After using a few Bencher BY-1 BY-2 paddles, I picked up a used Kent
paddle. I think I spent $90 used for it. It is far better than the
Bencher stuff and not that much more.
Many people are happy with the BY paddles. As for me, I'm not going
back.
- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 -
-Original
All true Jim. Actually I enjoy the C22. Yes, it has a direct
conversion receiver but I find the rig's simplicity enjoyable. RX
performance really isn't too bad at all. It handles the crud on 40
meters far better than the Century 21. VFO tuning rate to me is just
right. I'm an old school guy
If you want to buy Kent and save a few dollars, the kit form is at
http://www.kent-engineers.com/twinkit.htm
Even with shipping to the US, it was cheaper when I bought the paddles 2
years ago than from any US distributor I could find. I wasn't able to
find it in kit form in the US, and I
I'd kind of like to hear from some more people who have used those Black Widow
paddles that we got a glimpse of on this list a while ago. They looked
intriguing.
CPT Drew Neve - 9K2/KB9LLO
Battle Captain
S3 ASG-Kuwait
Eager to Assist
- Original Message -
From: Mike Markowski [EMAIL
Darrell:
The better you get, the less satisfied you will be with the
Bencher BY-1. The HEX is quite nice. I'm not sure what the Bencher
folks mean by it's being better for people who are used to bugs. I
suppose they mean that, because it is heavy and hard to knock around,
those with
My experience with the KNB2 is completely negative. I even built a
second one, tweaked etc. It does not even compare to ICOM or Yaesu
NB's. Wayne, time to redesign. No more spin on what it was designed
to do. No matter what it was designed to do, it doesn't eliminate or
reduce the most typical
Quotes from the Bencher website at http://www.bencher.com/whichpaddle.html:
Frankly, the BY series paddle, like a fine sports car or a surgical scalpel,
does not respond well to the heavy physical input such operators are
comfortable with. But that is how old time CW operators, trained on the
Alsoif you have a nut that you can thread onto the
screw before filing, when you back it off after the filing
is done it will help restore the threads on the screw.
Better yet, put a die on the screw before filing, and when you turn
the die off, it will cut the threads clean.
Paul,
Quotes from the Bencher website at http://www.bencher.com/
whichpaddle.html:
Frankly, the BY series paddle, like a fine sports car or a
surgical scalpel,
does not respond well to the heavy physical input such operators are
comfortable with. But that is how old time CW operators, trained on
I have an Kenwood MC-43S mike for sale that is excess to my needs, new in
orginal box.
Wired for K2 stright across mike header. $35.00 plus $5.00 shipping lower
48.
E-Mail me direct.
K0ARO
Kurt
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[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Also, how about a Begali vs Schurr Profi comparo?
I've tried both. They feel different; the Begali is a little stiffer
because the pivot is closer to the fingerpieces and the fingerpieces are
alloy as opposed to plastic, but they are both excellent keys. It's
Darrell Bellerive wrote:
Quotes from the Bencher website at http://www.bencher.com/whichpaddle.html:
The BY series, thanks to its unique pivot-pin bearings, is simply the most
responsive iambic paddle available today.
So, according to Bencher, the BY series is more responsive than the Hex.
It's sold.
snip
I just installed the 100 watt option in my basic K2(# 4472) and have no
use for the top copy with the KAT2 20w tuner and KIO2 rs-232 interface,
fully wired with speaker,
Jerry , N2UZ
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Quotes from the Bencher website at http://www.bencher.com/whichpaddle.html:
Frankly, the BY series paddle, like a fine sports car or a surgical
scalpel,
does not respond well to the heavy physical input such operators are
comfortable with. But that is how old time CW operators, trained on the
I am a single lever paddle nut so have the Begali single lever simplex. It
is fantastic although I wish it used the magnetic tension adjustment. The
spring adjustments are super fine; it just seems more 21st century to be
using magnetic. hi
Begali single lever is my favorite amongst single
Using a bug is a very a *physical* activity compared to
keyer paddles.
Ron AC7AC
Yes, the way Morse code should be. A full contact sport. When my shoulder
gets sore from pumping my Swedish hand key, I switch to my bug for some
rest.
Using a bug is a very a *physical* activity compared to
keyer paddles. Ron AC7AC
Not the way I do it. :)
http://wilsonarc.org/images/s-n-p_vibroplex_bug-001.jpg
http://wilsonarc.org/images/s-n-p_vibroplex_bug-002.jpg
http://wilsonarc.org/images/n4wsm_snp01.jpg
72 oo Greg K4KO
Hi all,
I've heard criticisms of the Bencher BY-series paddles over and over again
on this reflector, and honestly I don't have any idea what these critics
are talking about. Of course, I learned to send iambically on one from
the beginning. I've never used a bug, and I didn't even use a
I guess I am missing something here. Why do the banana plugs have to be
connected with rg 174 coax ??
If I have to use coax is there a trick to unraveling the braid ??
I cannot seem to get the tips of the banana plugs to accept solder.
As always, any help or advice would be greatly
-Original Message-
From: Rob Locher W7GH
I've heard criticisms of the Bencher BY-series paddles over and over
again on this reflector, and honestly I don't have any idea what
these critics are talking about.
I've owned and loved several Benchers BYs. I was happy with them
although
Ha! Ha! I've often asked for a bug emulator mode for the keyer so I could
key like a bug using the paddles when portable, but pundits always jump up
and tell me that I'd be unhappy with the feel of paddles. They're right, of
course, and that's now why I wanted it. I just wanted to keep the bug
On 6/16/06, Jesse Nicky [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I guess I am missing something here. Why do the banana plugs have to be
connected with rg 174 coax ??
The use of coax is AFAIK* to prevent the probe from picking up stray
RF energy from the powered up radio under test. The banana plugs are
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Has anyone had any experience with using OHR's CUP36-12-1 Power supply for the
K1 or K2? Is it acceptable to use.
tnx, Jim/k2hn
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Hi Jesse,
just read your post re the RF probe.
Your questions concerning the use of banana plugs are already answered so I'll
have a go at the braid unraveling question.
I'm using a very small copper brush. It looks like a toothbrush but the brushes
are made of copper wire.
After having cut
On Jun 16, 2006, at 11:31 AM, Jim and Carol wrote:
Has anyone had any experience with using OHR's CUP36-12-1 Power
supply for the K1 or K2? Is it acceptable to use.
tnx, Jim/k2hn
It should work fine. I use the similar MFJ-4103 (13.8V/2.89A) with
my K2. Neither has sufficient output
With smaller cables like RG174 (or even RG58) I sometimes do what Glenn,
ON4WIX does, using a brush or fine pointed tool to unweave the braid.
Most often I use another technique that does *not* require un-weaving the
braid. I cut the jacket back and then use a fine pointed tool to push the
Hi all,
I am in need of several toroids T44-2 and T44-10 for the input band filters
of the PA am going to build.
If anybody who have used the services of the Toroid Guy is willing to part
with his unused K2 toroids, please contact me off the list.
Thanks in advance!
73 Val, LZ1VBK2 2745
Hi Ron,
Not exactly. What I have is a couple of small pneumatic switches
(mounted in the large wooden box seen in the photo) which I operate by
sipping and puffing on a tube attached between the two. Each switch
activates one of the two relays you see mounted at the lever end of the
bug. A
Anyone out there that has any experience with LAB-VUE (TM) software interfacing
to control antenna rotators ? Any suggestions would be appreciated. tnx Gregg
Mulder
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We've had a great response to our Dayton special on the K2, so we have
continued to offer it on our web order form after the Dayton show. But
all good things must come to an end :-) The K2 special will be
available for just one more week and it will end after Sunday, June 25th.
Special
Folks,
I'm looking to buy an HT. The one I wanted, Kenwood TH-G71A, is
discontinued, nutz! So I narrowed down the choices to: Kenwood TH-F6A,
Yaesu FT-60R, Yaesu VX-6. Opinions pro/con on these choices? Main
requirement is IRLP/EchoLink in and around SW Oregon (Ashland,
Medford, Grants Pass,
If there are those of you out there who don't like the feel of plastic
finger pieces on your favorite key, or have broken one es would like
replacements, you may wish to consider my homemade wooden ones.
www.egr.msu.edu/~mulderg My advise for those looking fer a good key is to try
as many
I had an regular on-air friend, a life-long bug user, who, after a long
absence, suddenly reappeared using a keyboard. It turned out a stroke cost
him most of the motor control of his hands, but he could hunt-and-peck with
one finger to send using a keyboard.
You're both examples of the great
I find that the shield is not particularly flexible and soon breaks
and unravels. With RG-174, just cut the shield back, leaving approx.
1/16 exposed beyond the outer wrapper. Wrap a flexible piece of
stranded hookup wire around the exposed shield and solder it to the
shield. Cover the exposed
Varying lengths of dashes?
I surely don't remember that
when I practiced American Morse
circa 1952.
de Joe, aa4nn
---
I just wanted to keep the bug
operation, including the ability to send American Morse (which keyers
don't
allow
I am working on a power supply with a linear regulator circuit containing two
MS1700G power transistors that have shorted. I don't think they are in any way
exotic, and I'm sure there is a modern replacement. But I can't find any
specification information anywhere to begin the replacement
Well, actually there is one case. Zero is a long dash which I can't
send with my K1EL keyer or my K2.
www.chss.montclair.edu/~pererat/percode.htm
As a teen in the mid-50's, my friends and I learned American Morse just
so we could get on 80m at night with each other and confuse others on
the
Fred Jensen wrote:
Well, actually there is one case. Zero is a long dash which I can't
send with my K1EL keyer or my K2.
Ooops, there are two cases, I forgot about L. I can't send that with
a keyer either.
Fessing up to that error, I remain,
Fred K6DGW
Transistor substitution: If there is at least one good junction in the
device you want to replace; you measure the diode potential of that junction
to see if you have a silicon or germanium device: 0.3 volts is typical for
Germanium, perhaps a bit less.
0.6 volts is a Silicon junction.
Now
Yes, those are the two. Actually the long-dash zero is the only one I use on
the Ham bands. Sounds like that's the case for you too, Hi!
Many Hams have given up and instead use a single dash T for a zero on
their keyers, which works OK when heard in context.
My problem is that I can't easily
I am in need of a few 1N34A diodes and about 3 feet of RG-174 coax. Does
anyone on the board have these that I may purchase?
Mark Saunders, KJ7BS
Glendale, AZ
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Another classic way of using coax braid, is to push the braid back up the
central conductor, after removing the outer vinyl jacket. Once you bunch
the braid, it spreads out and you can use a sharp pointed tool to make a
hole by spreading the crossed strands. Using the pointed tool or a hook
I've located the parts I need (thanks Ron).
Thank you to everyone who responded to my query for parts. This is truely a
great list.
I hope I can return the favor some day.
Mark Saunders, KJ7BS
Gelndale, AZ
Mark Saunders wrote:
=
I am in need of a few 1N34A diodes and
There are actually a number of cases for longer dashes. With a bug
or SK, for example, one can truly emphasize the yes by sending R
with a long dash in the center (di-daahhh-dit). I miss that kind of
personalizing of code. One can also send, rather than the mundane
dah-di-di-di-dah,
thx guys-I really appreciate the advice. Now I know how to deal with the braid
for the future too. I knew I would be able to get a good response from this
group.
73 Jesse w6jmm
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You must
I'm sold on Begali keys. But not sure which one to get. Has anyone
used both the Simplex and Magnetic Classic who might comment on the
comparison? Also, how about a Begali vs Schurr Profi comparo? If I
had more dough, I would order all three, but that is not the case
here. I have a
please remove myname from your list i get too much of it thank s very
muchbernard panneton ve2le
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Anyone have an idea when the results of the Elecraft QSO Party held in March
will be posted? It's been over 2 months since the submission deadline.
73
... Craig AC0DS
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