Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-08 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Vernon,

If your K3 is receiving static, I would tend to blame your problem on 
the antenna rather than the K3.
However, there is a way to check the K3.  Beg, borrow or purchase an 
Elecraft XG2 signal generator.  That will give you a tool to produce a 
50 uV signal (S-9) and also a tool to do MDS measurements on your K3.

I do suspect your antenna.  Verticals do not work well in all locations 
- good performance depends on your soil conditions, and 25 foot radials 
are likely not long enough.  For a good ground screen with the 43 foot 
radial, you need at least 32 43 foot radial wires for it to be 
effective.  A vertical works great right on the edge of salt water, but 
inland locations vary depending on the soil conditions.  I have always 
been disappointed with verticals.

Actually, I suggest a more simplistic approach - use horizontal 
dipoles.  Use the 43 foot vertical as a mast to hold up the center of a 
dipole.  Get a 1:1 balun and construct a dipole for 40 and 20 meters.  2 
radiator wires 33 feet long and two 16 foot long these two antennas can 
run on a single feedline..  Run the center up to the top of your 43 foot 
mast and hang the ends of the dipole wires as high as you can using 
whatever supports are available.  You want an angle between the wires to 
be at an angle greater than 45 degrees.  The two wires for 40 meters 
(the 33 ft long ones) should be in the same vertical plane, and the two 
wires for 20 meters should be at right angles to the 40 meter wires to 
keep interaction to a minimum.

You mentioned 10 meters.  Propagation conditions may be a problem too.  
The higher HF bands do not have many signals during the hours of 
darkness, and 10 meters may not have many signals during the day.  20 
meters during the daylight hours is usually reliable and 40 meters at 
night will typically have good signals.  During periods of greater 
sunspot activity, the higher frequency bands will show more activity, 
but during the recent sunspot minimum, there were times when 20 meters 
was barely usable, but conditions are improving.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/8/2011 1:06 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:
 At the risk of exposing what a n00b I am when it comes to HF, I really
 need some help.  I recently (last month) purchased a K3.  First HF
 radio I have owned.  I got my license 2 years ago and have spent most
 of the time since playing with VHF.  I have been trying to teach
 myself CW and decided that it was time to step into the HF waters.  I
 studied, ogled, and dreamed of my ideal HF transceiver.  I finally
 found the K3 and having looked (at least a cursory glance) at all the
 others, I was sold.  I saved my pennies and purchased.  I also got
 myself a 43' untuned vertical antenna, balun, and radial wires.

 My setup: K3/100 has 100 feet of low loss 400 coax out to the 43 foot
 vertical on the hill in my back yard.  It has 8 25 foot radials and a
 4:1 balun.  The K3 has the KATU3, KPA3, KTCXO3-1, KFL3A-400, and
 default 2.8KHz filters.  I assembled it and did followed the
 calibration instructions as well as I could.  I think I got
 everything, but obviously I missed something.  Or maybe I just need an
 elmer to tell me what to do.

 I cannot seem to find any signals that make the S meter go above a 3
 or 4.  I have the RF gain turned up a fair ways (mostly to the top),
 and I can hear static.  As I tune up some of the bands on SSB, I can
 hear a tone that changes higher in pitch as I tune up in frequency.  I
 have tried listening for CW, but I am hearing nothing as I scan
 through the bands.  I had a 10m horizontal dipole taped to my wall for
 a while until I found time to run the coax out to the back yard.  I
 had hoped that since it was resonant on the 10m band, maybe it would
 be able to pick up something, but it was no better (or worse) than my
 vertical.

 As far as I can tell, the radio seems to transmit.  I can see the
 power meter moving and the SWR meter moving.  The ATU seems to be able
 to find acceptable settings on most of the bands with the vertical.
 But I can't hear them.  You can't work them if you can't hear them,
 right?

 This is a desperate plea for help.  Is it the radio or me?  Please
 have pity on the n00b and walk me through my first HF contact.

 --Vernon N7OH
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Re: [Elecraft] rig control...

2011-03-08 Thread Bill Allen
I just tried FLDIGI recently and liked it very much.   I like that it is a
truly cross-platform program so that no matter what type of computer I am
using - Linux, Windows, etc.- I have a program with the same interface to
use.

I recommend the Belkin F5U409 USB to Serial adapter.   I have used this for
years without any problems.   Unlike some USB to Serial adapters, this one
provides all the serial lines and the full protocol.   It usually can be
found for $25 or less.  On my Ubuntu 10.04 system, this adapter is picked up
plug and play without having to install anything and presents itself as
/dev/ttyUSB0.

73,
Bill - WA5PB






On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 01:13, John Ragle tpcj1...@crocker.com wrote:

 As has already been mentioned, SignaLink/USB has no provisions for rig
 frequency control. Also you should note that DigiPan itself has no
 provisions for rig control. If you are content to adjust frequency
 manually then DigiPan is a very nice, /simple(!),/ program, perfectly
 adequate for BPSK31 QSO's. DigiPan will run on almost any kind of Intel
 computer, from pencil sharpener to mainframe.

 If you want more control, I highly recommend FLDIGI over the several
 other available programs. Its interface is very straighforward, and the
 screen is not crowded. I've used almost every program available, whether
 free or not, and have settled on FLDIGI as the best, *no-compromises*,
 one to use. It is now in Ver. 3.21.4, installs easily, and is kept
 up-to-date. Google for the FLDIGI download site. The one downside to it
 (a minor one) is that the waterfall is not very high on the screen, so
 if you like a tall waterfall, you will be annoyed by this at first. You
 can always run Spectravue simultaneously with FLDIGI if you want more
 viewing turf. This quirk of FLDIGI is much more than offset by the
 variety of modes available!

 The one detail to which you will have to attend is making a serial
 connection from your computer to your transceiver. If your computer is
 an older model, it will have COM ports available. The K3 also has a
 matching COM port, and the problem devolves to finding a cable. IF, on
 the other hand, your computer is a newer model, it will probably NOT
 have COM ports built in. You then have two choices: (1) buy a simple,
 inexpensive card that fits inside the computer on the mother board,
 comes with drivers either already in Windows or on a CD or mini-CD, or
 (2) to use a USB-2.0 to Serial adapter. In this last case, beware! as
 many of the commercially available USB-to-serial adapters will NOT work,
 for various reasons. Be prepared to buy an industrial-strength
 USB-to-serial converter, or better stilll, buy the one that Elecraft
 offers (it comes with a guarantee to work!).

 Good luck. Feel free to email me if you have further questions. Everyone
 was a newbie at the beginning.

 John Ragle -- W1ZI
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-08 Thread drewko
You don't need a fancy antenna to receive lots of signals on HF. A
random length of wire should yield plenty that are above S3. My main
antenna is a simple 100 ft length of wire 30' high which can often
work DX stations in a pileup, let alone receive them well; and this
with only 10 watts output. 

As a simple test attach a length of wire to the other K3 antenna jack
and tune in WWV 10 MHz or W1AW. At one time or another during the day
you should definitely get some S9 or better signals. You can compare
the reception of the simple wire to that of your vertical. Also, try
tuning across some of the DX pileups such as for the CY0 DXpedition or
4A4A. (Google these or look for them on dxwatch.com) There will
typically be many, many signals to hear in the pileup and some of them
should be quite strong at your location, even with the simplest
receiving antenna.

73,
Drew
AF2Z



On Mon, 07 Mar 2011 22:06:19 -0800, you wrote:

At the risk of exposing what a n00b I am when it comes to HF, I really
need some help.  I recently (last month) purchased a K3.  First HF
radio I have owned.  I got my license 2 years ago and have spent most
of the time since playing with VHF.  I have been trying to teach
myself CW and decided that it was time to step into the HF waters.  I
studied, ogled, and dreamed of my ideal HF transceiver.  I finally
found the K3 and having looked (at least a cursory glance) at all the
others, I was sold.  I saved my pennies and purchased.  I also got
myself a 43' untuned vertical antenna, balun, and radial wires.

My setup: K3/100 has 100 feet of low loss 400 coax out to the 43 foot
vertical on the hill in my back yard.  It has 8 25 foot radials and a
4:1 balun.  The K3 has the KATU3, KPA3, KTCXO3-1, KFL3A-400, and
default 2.8KHz filters.  I assembled it and did followed the
calibration instructions as well as I could.  I think I got
everything, but obviously I missed something.  Or maybe I just need an
elmer to tell me what to do.

I cannot seem to find any signals that make the S meter go above a 3
or 4.  I have the RF gain turned up a fair ways (mostly to the top),
and I can hear static.  As I tune up some of the bands on SSB, I can
hear a tone that changes higher in pitch as I tune up in frequency.  I
have tried listening for CW, but I am hearing nothing as I scan
through the bands.  I had a 10m horizontal dipole taped to my wall for
a while until I found time to run the coax out to the back yard.  I
had hoped that since it was resonant on the 10m band, maybe it would
be able to pick up something, but it was no better (or worse) than my
vertical.

As far as I can tell, the radio seems to transmit.  I can see the
power meter moving and the SWR meter moving.  The ATU seems to be able
to find acceptable settings on most of the bands with the vertical.
But I can't hear them.  You can't work them if you can't hear them,
right?

This is a desperate plea for help.  Is it the radio or me?  Please
have pity on the n00b and walk me through my first HF contact.

--Vernon N7OH
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Re: [Elecraft] Why I won't purchase K3

2011-03-08 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
Johnny,

Because you like to build, please do not think that SMDs would be too 
difficult for you to handle. I, and no doubt other people, felt the same 
concern before starting to use SMDs in homebrew projects. Mounting multipin 
SMD ICs is not difficult after some practice.

Tweezers of the locking type should not be used to hold SMDs because they 
can make very good SMD Launchers.

If of any interest to you I think that I still have some notes and/or 
articles about SMD construction methods, which I could send to you if I 
still have them.

The main problem that I have is our Temple Cat who would like to help with 
any build. Bribes does not work with her, and she takes an unhealthy 
interest in any multipin SMD - ignores resistors.

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD


On March 06, 2011, at 14:44Z, Johnny Siu wrote:

 No worry, we often hear opinions from the opposite side in this mail 
 reflector.
 I like to build as well and the building process will give me the
 chance to understand more about the architecture of modern radio.

 However, due to the wide use surface mount technology, it will be too 
 difficult
 for an untrained amateur like myself to handle surface mount work for 
 modern
 radio. The modular design of K3 is something that I can manage.

 I bought my latest K3 from the second hand market and I needed to do some
 upgrade modification myself. I find this minor soldering work is quite fun
 indeed. This is all I can handle.

 A basic K3 has already covered most of the functions of a fully fit K2 and 
 in
 similar price range. Therefore, I would go for a basic K3 instead of a 
 fully
 fit K2.

 cheers,


 Johnny VR2XMC




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[Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-08 Thread sheajohnw

Vernon.  Try the recommended dipole to test your rig.  A dipole for 20 M band 
is short (about 36 ft long) and easy to make, you will quickly hear whether 
there is an issue with your K3 hardware or setup.  The 20 M band is reliable 
most daylight hours and shortly after sunset.  

You also mentioned that you are still new to HF although you have had your rig 
for two years.  Have you considered trying digital modes such as RTTY and 
PSK31?  Digital modes are able to communicate DX on barefoot and QRP rigs 
almost as effectively as CW without CW's learning curve.  It is a lot easier 
for me to get through to DX using digital mode than when operating barefoot 
SSB.  Although challenging to learn, no other mode gets DX QSOs through bad 
conditions as well as CW.  

I have logged approximately 10,000 mostly digital QSOs since becoming licensed 
in 2002.  Most QSOs were made on a K2/100 transmitting into a dipole up about 
30 feet.  You may require a balun on the dipole feedline to keep RF off the 
coax shield and ferrites on audio cables between your rig and computer to keep 
RF out of the computer.  

There are usually lots of PSK31 signals around 14.070 MHz and 7.035 MHz (40M 
band).  The 20M band is crowded with RTTY signals around 14.080 during every 
RTTY contest.  Try listening for WWV signals and scheduled signals from the 
ARRL's W1AW.

73 de KB1IKD



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-08 Thread John Lemay
Vernon

At risk of pointing out the obvious, with a short(ish) vertical you'll
probably need to receive with the pre-amp switched on, and the attenuator
switched off, on most bands.

Even with, (quite literally) a screwdriver poked into the antenna socket,
you should hear a good number of signals - and probably a lot of hash and
qrm from local sources such as computers.

Given the paucity of received signals, I don't think transmitting is a
particularly good idea !

Regards

John G4ZTR

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Vernon Mauery
Sent: 08 March 2011 06:06
To: elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

At the risk of exposing what a n00b I am when it comes to HF, I really
need some help.  I recently (last month) purchased a K3.  First HF
radio I have owned.  I got my license 2 years ago and have spent most
of the time since playing with VHF.  I have been trying to teach
myself CW and decided that it was time to step into the HF waters.  I
studied, ogled, and dreamed of my ideal HF transceiver.  I finally
found the K3 and having looked (at least a cursory glance) at all the
others, I was sold.  I saved my pennies and purchased.  I also got
myself a 43' untuned vertical antenna, balun, and radial wires.

My setup: K3/100 has 100 feet of low loss 400 coax out to the 43 foot
vertical on the hill in my back yard.  It has 8 25 foot radials and a
4:1 balun.  The K3 has the KATU3, KPA3, KTCXO3-1, KFL3A-400, and
default 2.8KHz filters.  I assembled it and did followed the
calibration instructions as well as I could.  I think I got
everything, but obviously I missed something.  Or maybe I just need an
elmer to tell me what to do.

I cannot seem to find any signals that make the S meter go above a 3
or 4.  I have the RF gain turned up a fair ways (mostly to the top),
and I can hear static.  As I tune up some of the bands on SSB, I can
hear a tone that changes higher in pitch as I tune up in frequency.  I
have tried listening for CW, but I am hearing nothing as I scan
through the bands.  I had a 10m horizontal dipole taped to my wall for
a while until I found time to run the coax out to the back yard.  I
had hoped that since it was resonant on the 10m band, maybe it would
be able to pick up something, but it was no better (or worse) than my
vertical.

As far as I can tell, the radio seems to transmit.  I can see the
power meter moving and the SWR meter moving.  The ATU seems to be able
to find acceptable settings on most of the bands with the vertical.
But I can't hear them.  You can't work them if you can't hear them,
right?

This is a desperate plea for help.  Is it the radio or me?  Please
have pity on the n00b and walk me through my first HF contact.

--Vernon N7OH
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-08 Thread Vernon Mauery
Don,

It looks like you and at least one other person have said that I need
more radials.  I will have to look into that.  Thank you for your
suggestion.

--Vernon N7OH

On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 4:59 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
  Vernon,

 If your K3 is receiving static, I would tend to blame your problem on the
 antenna rather than the K3.
 However, there is a way to check the K3.  Beg, borrow or purchase an
 Elecraft XG2 signal generator.  That will give you a tool to produce a 50 uV
 signal (S-9) and also a tool to do MDS measurements on your K3.

 I do suspect your antenna.  Verticals do not work well in all locations -
 good performance depends on your soil conditions, and 25 foot radials are
 likely not long enough.  For a good ground screen with the 43 foot radial,
 you need at least 32 43 foot radial wires for it to be effective.  A
 vertical works great right on the edge of salt water, but inland locations
 vary depending on the soil conditions.  I have always been disappointed with
 verticals.

 Actually, I suggest a more simplistic approach - use horizontal dipoles.
  Use the 43 foot vertical as a mast to hold up the center of a dipole.  Get
 a 1:1 balun and construct a dipole for 40 and 20 meters.  2 radiator wires
 33 feet long and two 16 foot long these two antennas can run on a single
 feedline..  Run the center up to the top of your 43 foot mast and hang the
 ends of the dipole wires as high as you can using whatever supports are
 available.  You want an angle between the wires to be at an angle greater
 than 45 degrees.  The two wires for 40 meters (the 33 ft long ones) should
 be in the same vertical plane, and the two wires for 20 meters should be at
 right angles to the 40 meter wires to keep interaction to a minimum.

 You mentioned 10 meters.  Propagation conditions may be a problem too.  The
 higher HF bands do not have many signals during the hours of darkness, and
 10 meters may not have many signals during the day.  20 meters during the
 daylight hours is usually reliable and 40 meters at night will typically
 have good signals.  During periods of greater sunspot activity, the higher
 frequency bands will show more activity, but during the recent sunspot
 minimum, there were times when 20 meters was barely usable, but conditions
 are improving.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 3/8/2011 1:06 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:

 At the risk of exposing what a n00b I am when it comes to HF, I really
 need some help.  I recently (last month) purchased a K3.  First HF
 radio I have owned.  I got my license 2 years ago and have spent most
 of the time since playing with VHF.  I have been trying to teach
 myself CW and decided that it was time to step into the HF waters.  I
 studied, ogled, and dreamed of my ideal HF transceiver.  I finally
 found the K3 and having looked (at least a cursory glance) at all the
 others, I was sold.  I saved my pennies and purchased.  I also got
 myself a 43' untuned vertical antenna, balun, and radial wires.

 My setup: K3/100 has 100 feet of low loss 400 coax out to the 43 foot
 vertical on the hill in my back yard.  It has 8 25 foot radials and a
 4:1 balun.  The K3 has the KATU3, KPA3, KTCXO3-1, KFL3A-400, and
 default 2.8KHz filters.  I assembled it and did followed the
 calibration instructions as well as I could.  I think I got
 everything, but obviously I missed something.  Or maybe I just need an
 elmer to tell me what to do.

 I cannot seem to find any signals that make the S meter go above a 3
 or 4.  I have the RF gain turned up a fair ways (mostly to the top),
 and I can hear static.  As I tune up some of the bands on SSB, I can
 hear a tone that changes higher in pitch as I tune up in frequency.  I
 have tried listening for CW, but I am hearing nothing as I scan
 through the bands.  I had a 10m horizontal dipole taped to my wall for
 a while until I found time to run the coax out to the back yard.  I
 had hoped that since it was resonant on the 10m band, maybe it would
 be able to pick up something, but it was no better (or worse) than my
 vertical.

 As far as I can tell, the radio seems to transmit.  I can see the
 power meter moving and the SWR meter moving.  The ATU seems to be able
 to find acceptable settings on most of the bands with the vertical.
 But I can't hear them.  You can't work them if you can't hear them,
 right?

 This is a desperate plea for help.  Is it the radio or me?  Please
 have pity on the n00b and walk me through my first HF contact.

 --Vernon N7OH
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-08 Thread Bill
Turn up the RF  gain as well.  Check your receive with it turned up all the
way to the right.  Reduce the audio before hand.

Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-

.  I have the RF gain turned up a fair ways (mostly to the top), and I
can hear static

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-08 Thread Steve Ellington
This is getting out of hand. Vernon can't receive anything and someone 
suggest more radials! Come on guys.He has 8 radials and another 
hundred might make a few DB difference but certainly not enough to overcome 
a dead receiver.
A 10 ft. hank of hookup wire should yield plenty of good signals on 40 
meters especially at night.
Vernon needs something in his shack that he knows (works). The suggestion to 
buy the XG2 was a good one. Hooking up with another ham in the area would 
really help though. If someone lives close to Vernon they could probably be 
a big help.

Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: Vernon Mauery vmau...@gmail.com
To: d...@w3fpr.com
Cc: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving


Don,

It looks like you and at least one other person have said that I need
more radials.  I will have to look into that.  Thank you for your
suggestion.

--Vernon N7OH

On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 4:59 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 Vernon,

 If your K3 is receiving static, I would tend to blame your problem on the
 antenna rather than the K3.
 However, there is a way to check the K3. Beg, borrow or purchase an
 Elecraft XG2 signal generator. That will give you a tool to produce a 50 
 uV
 signal (S-9) and also a tool to do MDS measurements on your K3.

 I do suspect your antenna. Verticals do not work well in all locations -
 good performance depends on your soil conditions, and 25 foot radials are
 likely not long enough. For a good ground screen with the 43 foot radial,
 you need at least 32 43 foot radial wires for it to be effective. A
 vertical works great right on the edge of salt water, but inland locations
 vary depending on the soil conditions. I have always been disappointed 
 with
 verticals.

 Actually, I suggest a more simplistic approach - use horizontal dipoles.
 Use the 43 foot vertical as a mast to hold up the center of a dipole. Get
 a 1:1 balun and construct a dipole for 40 and 20 meters. 2 radiator wires
 33 feet long and two 16 foot long these two antennas can run on a single
 feedline.. Run the center up to the top of your 43 foot mast and hang 
 the
 ends of the dipole wires as high as you can using whatever supports are
 available. You want an angle between the wires to be at an angle greater
 than 45 degrees. The two wires for 40 meters (the 33 ft long ones) should
 be in the same vertical plane, and the two wires for 20 meters should be 
 at
 right angles to the 40 meter wires to keep interaction to a minimum.

 You mentioned 10 meters. Propagation conditions may be a problem too. The
 higher HF bands do not have many signals during the hours of darkness, and
 10 meters may not have many signals during the day. 20 meters during the
 daylight hours is usually reliable and 40 meters at night will typically
 have good signals. During periods of greater sunspot activity, the higher
 frequency bands will show more activity, but during the recent sunspot
 minimum, there were times when 20 meters was barely usable, but conditions
 are improving.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 3/8/2011 1:06 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:

 At the risk of exposing what a n00b I am when it comes to HF, I really
 need some help. I recently (last month) purchased a K3. First HF
 radio I have owned. I got my license 2 years ago and have spent most
 of the time since playing with VHF. I have been trying to teach
 myself CW and decided that it was time to step into the HF waters. I
 studied, ogled, and dreamed of my ideal HF transceiver. I finally
 found the K3 and having looked (at least a cursory glance) at all the
 others, I was sold. I saved my pennies and purchased. I also got
 myself a 43' untuned vertical antenna, balun, and radial wires.

 My setup: K3/100 has 100 feet of low loss 400 coax out to the 43 foot
 vertical on the hill in my back yard. It has 8 25 foot radials and a
 4:1 balun. The K3 has the KATU3, KPA3, KTCXO3-1, KFL3A-400, and
 default 2.8KHz filters. I assembled it and did followed the
 calibration instructions as well as I could. I think I got
 everything, but obviously I missed something. Or maybe I just need an
 elmer to tell me what to do.

 I cannot seem to find any signals that make the S meter go above a 3
 or 4. I have the RF gain turned up a fair ways (mostly to the top),
 and I can hear static. As I tune up some of the bands on SSB, I can
 hear a tone that changes higher in pitch as I tune up in frequency. I
 have tried listening for CW, but I am hearing nothing as I scan
 through the bands. I had a 10m horizontal dipole taped to my wall for
 a while until I found time to run the coax out to the back yard. I
 had hoped that since it was resonant on the 10m band, maybe it would
 be able to pick up something, but it was no better (or worse) than my
 vertical.

 As far as I can tell, the radio seems to transmit. I can see the
 power meter moving and the SWR meter moving. The ATU seems to be able
 to find 

Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-08 Thread Tony Estep
Steve is right. It ain't the antenna. I can hear plenty of signals with the
previously suggested screwdriver in the antenna jack.

Vernon, turn up RF gain all the way, put the mode on USB, and tune in WWV at
10 mhz, and tune down from there through the loud broadcast stations Or tune
20M phone (14.200 - 14.300) or at night 40M phone (7.15 - 7.3). If you don't
hear loud signals, something other than the antenna is wrong.

Tony KT0NY

On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 9:56 AM, Steve Ellington n...@carolina.rr.comwrote:

 This is getting out of hand. Vernon can't receive anything and someone
 suggest more radials!
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-08 Thread drewko
Personally, I doubt that adding radials will make any noticeable
change in the number or strength of received signals. 

73,
Drew
AF2Z


On Tue, 08 Mar 2011 07:33:29 -0800, you wrote:

Don,

It looks like you and at least one other person have said that I need
more radials.  I will have to look into that.  Thank you for your
suggestion.

--Vernon N7OH


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-08 Thread Ross Primrose N4RP
Does the received noise decrease when you disconnect the antenna?

73, Ross N4RP

On 3/8/2011 1:06 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:
 At the risk of exposing what a n00b I am when it comes to HF, I really
 need some help.  I recently (last month) purchased a K3.  First HF
 radio I have owned.  I got my license 2 years ago and have spent most
 of the time since playing with VHF.  I have been trying to teach
 myself CW and decided that it was time to step into the HF waters.  I
 studied, ogled, and dreamed of my ideal HF transceiver.  I finally
 found the K3 and having looked (at least a cursory glance) at all the
 others, I was sold.  I saved my pennies and purchased.  I also got
 myself a 43' untuned vertical antenna, balun, and radial wires.

 My setup: K3/100 has 100 feet of low loss 400 coax out to the 43 foot
 vertical on the hill in my back yard.  It has 8 25 foot radials and a
 4:1 balun.  The K3 has the KATU3, KPA3, KTCXO3-1, KFL3A-400, and
 default 2.8KHz filters.  I assembled it and did followed the
 calibration instructions as well as I could.  I think I got
 everything, but obviously I missed something.  Or maybe I just need an
 elmer to tell me what to do.

 I cannot seem to find any signals that make the S meter go above a 3
 or 4.  I have the RF gain turned up a fair ways (mostly to the top),
 and I can hear static.  As I tune up some of the bands on SSB, I can
 hear a tone that changes higher in pitch as I tune up in frequency.  I
 have tried listening for CW, but I am hearing nothing as I scan
 through the bands.  I had a 10m horizontal dipole taped to my wall for
 a while until I found time to run the coax out to the back yard.  I
 had hoped that since it was resonant on the 10m band, maybe it would
 be able to pick up something, but it was no better (or worse) than my
 vertical.

 As far as I can tell, the radio seems to transmit.  I can see the
 power meter moving and the SWR meter moving.  The ATU seems to be able
 to find acceptable settings on most of the bands with the vertical.
 But I can't hear them.  You can't work them if you can't hear them,
 right?

 This is a desperate plea for help.  Is it the radio or me?  Please
 have pity on the n00b and walk me through my first HF contact.

 --Vernon N7OH
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FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the 
minimum transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired 
communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-08 Thread Vernon Mauery
Yes.  I can see the S-meter go from 3-4 down with static down to
nothing with quieter static.  My best guess is that I am not trying
the right times at the right places.

Thanks to everyone for the help.

--Vernon N7OH

On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 8:12 AM, Ross Primrose N4RP n...@aiko.com wrote:
 Does the received noise decrease when you disconnect the antenna?

 73, Ross N4RP

 On 3/8/2011 1:06 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:
 At the risk of exposing what a n00b I am when it comes to HF, I really
 need some help.  I recently (last month) purchased a K3.  First HF
 radio I have owned.  I got my license 2 years ago and have spent most
 of the time since playing with VHF.  I have been trying to teach
 myself CW and decided that it was time to step into the HF waters.  I
 studied, ogled, and dreamed of my ideal HF transceiver.  I finally
 found the K3 and having looked (at least a cursory glance) at all the
 others, I was sold.  I saved my pennies and purchased.  I also got
 myself a 43' untuned vertical antenna, balun, and radial wires.

 My setup: K3/100 has 100 feet of low loss 400 coax out to the 43 foot
 vertical on the hill in my back yard.  It has 8 25 foot radials and a
 4:1 balun.  The K3 has the KATU3, KPA3, KTCXO3-1, KFL3A-400, and
 default 2.8KHz filters.  I assembled it and did followed the
 calibration instructions as well as I could.  I think I got
 everything, but obviously I missed something.  Or maybe I just need an
 elmer to tell me what to do.

 I cannot seem to find any signals that make the S meter go above a 3
 or 4.  I have the RF gain turned up a fair ways (mostly to the top),
 and I can hear static.  As I tune up some of the bands on SSB, I can
 hear a tone that changes higher in pitch as I tune up in frequency.  I
 have tried listening for CW, but I am hearing nothing as I scan
 through the bands.  I had a 10m horizontal dipole taped to my wall for
 a while until I found time to run the coax out to the back yard.  I
 had hoped that since it was resonant on the 10m band, maybe it would
 be able to pick up something, but it was no better (or worse) than my
 vertical.

 As far as I can tell, the radio seems to transmit.  I can see the
 power meter moving and the SWR meter moving.  The ATU seems to be able
 to find acceptable settings on most of the bands with the vertical.
 But I can't hear them.  You can't work them if you can't hear them,
 right?

 This is a desperate plea for help.  Is it the radio or me?  Please
 have pity on the n00b and walk me through my first HF contact.

 --Vernon N7OH
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 --
 FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the
 minimum transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired
 communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-08 Thread Ken Roberson
Vernon,

Have you checked your coax , maybe open.
Try hooking up just the center conductor of the 
coax to your rig , leave the shield unhooked.

73 Ken K5DNL
- 

--- On Tue, 3/8/11, Vernon Mauery vmau...@gmail.com wrote:

 From: Vernon Mauery vmau...@gmail.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving
 To: d...@w3fpr.com
 Cc: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Tuesday, March 8, 2011, 9:33 AM
 Don,
 
 It looks like you and at least one other person have said
 that I need
 more radials.  I will have to look into that. 
 Thank you for your
 suggestion.
 
 --Vernon N7OH
 
 On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 4:59 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
 wrote:
   Vernon,
 
  If your K3 is receiving static, I would tend to blame
 your problem on the
  antenna rather than the K3.
  However, there is a way to check the K3.  Beg, borrow
 or purchase an
  Elecraft XG2 signal generator.  That will give you a
 tool to produce a 50 uV
  signal (S-9) and also a tool to do MDS measurements on
 your K3.
 
  I do suspect your antenna.  Verticals do not work
 well in all locations -
  good performance depends on your soil conditions, and
 25 foot radials are
  likely not long enough.  For a good ground screen
 with the 43 foot radial,
  you need at least 32 43 foot radial wires for it to be
 effective.  A
  vertical works great right on the edge of salt water,
 but inland locations
  vary depending on the soil conditions.  I have always
 been disappointed with
  verticals.
 
  Actually, I suggest a more simplistic approach - use
 horizontal dipoles.
   Use the 43 foot vertical as a mast to hold up the
 center of a dipole.  Get
  a 1:1 balun and construct a dipole for 40 and 20
 meters.  2 radiator wires
  33 feet long and two 16 foot long these two antennas
 can run on a single
  feedline..  Run the center up to the top of your 43
 foot mast and hang the
  ends of the dipole wires as high as you can using
 whatever supports are
  available.  You want an angle between the wires to be
 at an angle greater
  than 45 degrees.  The two wires for 40 meters (the 33
 ft long ones) should
  be in the same vertical plane, and the two wires for
 20 meters should be at
  right angles to the 40 meter wires to keep interaction
 to a minimum.
 
  You mentioned 10 meters.  Propagation conditions may
 be a problem too.  The
  higher HF bands do not have many signals during the
 hours of darkness, and
  10 meters may not have many signals during the day.
  20 meters during the
  daylight hours is usually reliable and 40 meters at
 night will typically
  have good signals.  During periods of greater sunspot
 activity, the higher
  frequency bands will show more activity, but during
 the recent sunspot
  minimum, there were times when 20 meters was barely
 usable, but conditions
  are improving.
 
  73,
  Don W3FPR
 
  On 3/8/2011 1:06 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:
 
  At the risk of exposing what a n00b I am when it
 comes to HF, I really
  need some help.  I recently (last month)
 purchased a K3.  First HF
  radio I have owned.  I got my license 2 years ago
 and have spent most
  of the time since playing with VHF.  I have been
 trying to teach
  myself CW and decided that it was time to step
 into the HF waters.  I
  studied, ogled, and dreamed of my ideal HF
 transceiver.  I finally
  found the K3 and having looked (at least a cursory
 glance) at all the
  others, I was sold.  I saved my pennies and
 purchased.  I also got
  myself a 43' untuned vertical antenna, balun, and
 radial wires.
 
  My setup: K3/100 has 100 feet of low loss 400 coax
 out to the 43 foot
  vertical on the hill in my back yard.  It has 8
 25 foot radials and a
  4:1 balun.  The K3 has the KATU3, KPA3, KTCXO3-1,
 KFL3A-400, and
  default 2.8KHz filters.  I assembled it and did
 followed the
  calibration instructions as well as I could.  I
 think I got
  everything, but obviously I missed something.  Or
 maybe I just need an
  elmer to tell me what to do.
 
  I cannot seem to find any signals that make the S
 meter go above a 3
  or 4.  I have the RF gain turned up a fair ways
 (mostly to the top),
  and I can hear static.  As I tune up some of the
 bands on SSB, I can
  hear a tone that changes higher in pitch as I tune
 up in frequency.  I
  have tried listening for CW, but I am hearing
 nothing as I scan
  through the bands.  I had a 10m horizontal dipole
 taped to my wall for
  a while until I found time to run the coax out to
 the back yard.  I
  had hoped that since it was resonant on the 10m
 band, maybe it would
  be able to pick up something, but it was no better
 (or worse) than my
  vertical.
 
  As far as I can tell, the radio seems to transmit.
  I can see the
  power meter moving and the SWR meter moving.  The
 ATU seems to be able
  to find acceptable settings on most of the bands
 with the vertical.
  But I can't hear them.  You can't work them if
 you can't hear them,
  right?
 
  This is a 

Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-08 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Forget radials for receiving. You don't need them to hear many, many
signals. 

The suggestion to throw out a hank of wire (or just tie the center and
shield of the coax to your vertical together and connect them both to the
center pin of the antenna connector - assuming your coax isn't buried) for
an impromptu receive antenna is a good one. That should bring in a lot of HF
signals. 

One thing about your SWR readings -- If your antenna system is very lossy
for some reason often the SWR will look excellent. All the SWR says is that
there's little reflected power and even a short or open circuit at the end
of a very long piece of coax will show a fairly low SWR while preventing
reception (or transmission!). 

Do you have the correct antenna selected? You have ANT1 and ANT2 selectable
from the front panel. There's enough leakage between the two that a tiny
amount of signal will be audible if you have the wrong antenna. And if you
are so equipped, you have the option of the RX antenna on a separate
connector at the rear that is completely independent of the KAT2 an it's two
antenna selections. Choosing that one will produce your symptoms too.

Ron AC7AC





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[Elecraft] K3 not receiving

2011-03-08 Thread Paul Kirley
A friend of mine had a problem very similar to yours; his K3 couldn't hear 
anything.  He brought it to my QTH for testing and comparison to my K3.

It turned out that he had not correctly set up his receive crystal filters.  Be 
sure that you have done the crystal filter setup, on page 46 of the Owner's 
Manual (not the Assembly Manual).  Pay special attention to the receive portion 
of the setup instructions.  

Be sure to do the setup for each filter you have installed.  Verify the numbers 
of the slots where you installed the filters.  Also make sure that the K3's 
display is showing a filter slot where you have a filter installed.  If you get 
the filter numbers out of sync (as my friend did), the result can be a deaf 
receiver.

My friend is now quite happy with his K3.

73, Paul W8TM

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/P3 and Palstar Auto-tuner

2011-03-08 Thread K8AC

Tommy Alderman wrote:
 
  There is also a problem if you use any type of PC
 control for your radio. RS-232 is designed to operate ONE device at a
 time.
 
 73,
 Tom - W4BQF
 

There's another way to get around this problem.  I use DXLab for logging and
its Commander application (the app that communicates with your rig(s) )
offers the ability to define a secondary CAT device on a serial port.  Your
primary CAT port might have your K3 attached and the secondary might have a
Yaesu, Icom, Kenwood, etc. (anything that uses one of the supported
interfaces in Commander).  You can specify that frequency changes in either
(or both) devices will cause the other to track the changes.  With things
set up that way, I can tune my K3 and have my Icom Pro III track the
changes, or vice versa.  The delay in responding to frequency changes is
extremely small on my system.   Your PalStar could be the secondary CAT
device and thus track the K3 just fine.  

73, Floyd - K8AC

--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-P3-and-Palstar-Auto-tuner-tp6097972p6130117.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-08 Thread Vic K2VCO
The best thing you can do at this point is to get an experienced local ham who 
knows what 
to expect to listen to your setup. I bet that if you posted the name of your 
town on the 
list there would be someone nearby that could help you. Or you could contact a 
local radio 
club.

Yes, you need more radials for an efficient antenna, but I don't think that's 
the problem. 
It's also the case that 100' of coax is a lot for a 43' vertical which you are 
matching at 
the transceiver. The KAT3 will make the rig see a matched antenna, but the SWR 
along the 
line will be quite high on some bands, which will cause significant loss. 
Having said 
that, I still don't think that's the problem.

It may just be that you are listening at the wrong times. 40 meters in the 
early evening 
should be good.

On 3/8/2011 7:33 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:
 Don,

 It looks like you and at least one other person have said that I need
 more radials.  I will have to look into that.  Thank you for your
 suggestion.

 --Vernon N7OH

 On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 4:59 AM, Don Wilhelmw3...@embarqmail.com  wrote:
   Vernon,

 If your K3 is receiving static, I would tend to blame your problem on the
 antenna rather than the K3.
 However, there is a way to check the K3.  Beg, borrow or purchase an
 Elecraft XG2 signal generator.  That will give you a tool to produce a 50 uV
 signal (S-9) and also a tool to do MDS measurements on your K3.

 I do suspect your antenna.  Verticals do not work well in all locations -
 good performance depends on your soil conditions, and 25 foot radials are
 likely not long enough.  For a good ground screen with the 43 foot radial,
 you need at least 32 43 foot radial wires for it to be effective.  A
 vertical works great right on the edge of salt water, but inland locations
 vary depending on the soil conditions.  I have always been disappointed with
 verticals.

 Actually, I suggest a more simplistic approach - use horizontal dipoles.
   Use the 43 foot vertical as a mast to hold up the center of a dipole.  Get
 a 1:1 balun and construct a dipole for 40 and 20 meters.  2 radiator wires
 33 feet long and two 16 foot long these two antennas can run on a single
 feedline..  Run the center up to the top of your 43 foot mast and hang the
 ends of the dipole wires as high as you can using whatever supports are
 available.  You want an angle between the wires to be at an angle greater
 than 45 degrees.  The two wires for 40 meters (the 33 ft long ones) should
 be in the same vertical plane, and the two wires for 20 meters should be at
 right angles to the 40 meter wires to keep interaction to a minimum.

 You mentioned 10 meters.  Propagation conditions may be a problem too.  The
 higher HF bands do not have many signals during the hours of darkness, and
 10 meters may not have many signals during the day.  20 meters during the
 daylight hours is usually reliable and 40 meters at night will typically
 have good signals.  During periods of greater sunspot activity, the higher
 frequency bands will show more activity, but during the recent sunspot
 minimum, there were times when 20 meters was barely usable, but conditions
 are improving.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 3/8/2011 1:06 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:

 At the risk of exposing what a n00b I am when it comes to HF, I really
 need some help.  I recently (last month) purchased a K3.  First HF
 radio I have owned.  I got my license 2 years ago and have spent most
 of the time since playing with VHF.  I have been trying to teach
 myself CW and decided that it was time to step into the HF waters.  I
 studied, ogled, and dreamed of my ideal HF transceiver.  I finally
 found the K3 and having looked (at least a cursory glance) at all the
 others, I was sold.  I saved my pennies and purchased.  I also got
 myself a 43' untuned vertical antenna, balun, and radial wires.

 My setup: K3/100 has 100 feet of low loss 400 coax out to the 43 foot
 vertical on the hill in my back yard.  It has 8 25 foot radials and a
 4:1 balun.  The K3 has the KATU3, KPA3, KTCXO3-1, KFL3A-400, and
 default 2.8KHz filters.  I assembled it and did followed the
 calibration instructions as well as I could.  I think I got
 everything, but obviously I missed something.  Or maybe I just need an
 elmer to tell me what to do.

 I cannot seem to find any signals that make the S meter go above a 3
 or 4.  I have the RF gain turned up a fair ways (mostly to the top),
 and I can hear static.  As I tune up some of the bands on SSB, I can
 hear a tone that changes higher in pitch as I tune up in frequency.  I
 have tried listening for CW, but I am hearing nothing as I scan
 through the bands.  I had a 10m horizontal dipole taped to my wall for
 a while until I found time to run the coax out to the back yard.  I
 had hoped that since it was resonant on the 10m band, maybe it would
 be able to pick up something, but it was no better (or worse) than my
 vertical.

 As far as I can tell, the radio seems to transmit.  I can see 

[Elecraft] Elecraft K-3 not for sale

2011-03-08 Thread Lance
Hi

One of the potential buyers for my K-3 checked with Elecraft and my K-3 
does not have the 2.8 khz8 pole crystal filter but the 2.7 khz 5pole 
crystal filter. The error is totally mine and I did not mean to deceive 
anyone. I am very embarrassed and am withdrawing the K-3 from 
availability at this time.

Lance Elliott, KF0HC

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K-3 not for sale

2011-03-08 Thread Eugene Balinski
No biggie.  We **all** make mistakes...

If you still need/want to sell it,  just adjust the price
accordingly...


73

gene K1NR




On Tue, 08 Mar 2011 10:36:32 -0700
 Lance sleddogp...@cnetco.com wrote:
 Hi
 
 One of the potential buyers for my K-3 checked with
 Elecraft and my K-3 
 does not have the 2.8 khz8 pole crystal filter but the
 2.7 khz 5pole 
 crystal filter. The error is totally mine and I did not
 mean to deceive 
 anyone. I am very embarrassed and am withdrawing the K-3
 from 
 availability at this time.
 
 Lance Elliott, KF0HC
 

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K-3 not for sale

2011-03-08 Thread Jim Brown
On 3/8/2011 9:41 AM, Eugene Balinski wrote:
 If you still need/want to sell it,  just adjust the price
 accordingly..

Right. I strongly suspect that most K3s are bought with the 2.7kHz 
filter.  Both of mine were, and I'm happy as a clam.

73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] Nope My K3 is NOT for sale

2011-03-08 Thread Phil Townsend
Nope. Not. Never... well maybe if there is K4 
Boy I wonder what that will be like
K4... hell, it will do the dishes too!!!
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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: Re: Maxwell's Equations.

2011-03-08 Thread WA6L

The answer is 42.

John, WA6L


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[Elecraft] K2 K3 Rig Control

2011-03-08 Thread Bill Allen
Does the K3 have a port like the KIO on the K2?   Are the settings to
connect and the rig commands the same?


73,
Bill - WA5PB
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 K3 Rig Control

2011-03-08 Thread Mike
Bill.

The K3 connects to a computer thru a DB9 connector for RS-232 communication. 
The K3 
and K2 share some of the commands. Take a look at the K3 programmers manual at 
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3_Pgmrs_Reference_Rev_C14.pdf.

73, Mike NF4L

On 3/8/2011 2:40 PM, Bill Allen wrote:
 Does the K3 have a port like the KIO on the K2?   Are the settings to
 connect and the rig commands the same?


 73,
 Bill - WA5PB
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 K3 Rig Control

2011-03-08 Thread Nate Bargmann
* On 2011 08 Mar 13:43 -0600, Bill Allen wrote:
 Does the K3 have a port like the KIO on the K2?   Are the settings to
 connect and the rig commands the same?

Yes.  The K3 supports the K2 command set and adds more or enhances
certain K2 commands.  Complete details are documented via the relevant
programmers guides available for download on the Elecraft web site.

73, de Nate 

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possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true.

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 K3 Rig Control

2011-03-08 Thread Bill Allen
Thanks for the info.   I am writing some code to read and control the K2,
but thought it would be good to also handle the K3 while at it.


73,
Bill - WA5PV







On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 13:56, Mike n...@nf4l.com wrote:

 Bill.

 The K3 connects to a computer thru a DB9 connector for RS-232
 communication. The K3
 and K2 share some of the commands. Take a look at the K3 programmers manual
 at
 http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3_Pgmrs_Reference_Rev_C14.pdf.

 73, Mike NF4L

 On 3/8/2011 2:40 PM, Bill Allen wrote:
  Does the K3 have a port like the KIO on the K2?   Are the settings to
  connect and the rig commands the same?
 
 
  73,
  Bill - WA5PB
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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: Why I won't purchase K3

2011-03-08 Thread George A. Thornton
I have a different opinion.

I like kits.   The stereo I used in college was a Heathkit I built
myself.  

I built the K2 and learned a great deal from the experience.  I had at
least as much fun building the radio as using it.

Building the K3 is indeed much less of a kit experience.  This is
inevitable because technology has moved forward.  High end equipment now
extensively uses surface mount parts.  It is impossible to practically
market a kit requiring extensive assembly of boards using surface mount
parts.  The equipment and skills needed for that type of work is beyond
the casual amateur.

That does not mean there is no advantage to having built the K3 as a
kit.

Recently I had a problem with the B VFO.  After a call to the factory I
was able to do a test and determine the B VFO encoder was going bad.
They sent out a replacement and I was able to swap the parts in about
fifteen minutes.  No charge and no radio down time.

If this had not been a kit I would have had to return the radio for
service.  That would have meant a multi week delay and considerable
expense and frustration.





-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Alexey Kats
Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2011 6:45 AM
To: VE3GAM Allen McRorie
Cc: Elecraft List
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fw: Why I won't purchase K3

Allen, you misunderstood me. I have no problem with using owning K3 - it
the
best radio I around, no matter which day you ask it.  My problem is with
K3
in its kit form. I don't have a problem buying it as an assembled
radio.
But I have a problem with buying it as a kit and then claiming that I
built
it. All this kit form does is saving some money. It does not make me
proud of achieving anything - that's what I was griping about. I don't
mind
bying K3. I don't like building it, that's all

Actually, I think I should apologize to everybody - the subject of my
original post was probably misleading.  The better way to phrase it
would be
why I won't purchase K3 KIT.

On Sun, Mar 6, 2011 at 6:29 AM, VE3GAM Allen McRorie
ve3...@rogers.comwrote:

 interesting comment!

 if you want to use one of the best radios around, I really don't get
why it
 is so
 important that you BUILD the rig. Hopefully the END product is more
 important
 than the process used to get there. if not, then I guess you will miss
out
 on using
 one of the best radios around.

 that is why I don't consider the BUILD question important at all .

 Al ve3gam



-- 
Alexey Kats (neko)
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-08 Thread David Herring
Here's a follow-on question to the reflector...

Vernon's set-up brings a question to mind.  He says he's using a 4:1 balun on 
his vertical.  At first brush that seems counterintuitive, doesn't it?  Isn't a 
vertical unbalanced?  Certainly the coax is unbalanced.  When you're mating an 
unbalanced feedline with an unbalanced antenna, wouldn't one be better off 
using an unun rather than a 4:1 balun?

In further support of my line of questioning, I've read numerous, albeit 
anecdotal, reports of people being displeased with the performance of their 
vertical, particularly the untuned ones like Zero-Five for example. But when 
they add an unun they are then amazed at how the antenna allegedly sprung to 
life.

73,
Dave  AH6TD

On Mar 8, 2011, at 6:20 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:

 Yes.  I can see the S-meter go from 3-4 down with static down to
 nothing with quieter static.  My best guess is that I am not trying
 the right times at the right places.
 
 Thanks to everyone for the help.
 
 --Vernon N7OH
 
 On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 8:12 AM, Ross Primrose N4RP n...@aiko.com wrote:
 Does the received noise decrease when you disconnect the antenna?
 
 73, Ross N4RP
 
 On 3/8/2011 1:06 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:
 At the risk of exposing what a n00b I am when it comes to HF, I really
 need some help.  I recently (last month) purchased a K3.  First HF
 radio I have owned.  I got my license 2 years ago and have spent most
 of the time since playing with VHF.  I have been trying to teach
 myself CW and decided that it was time to step into the HF waters.  I
 studied, ogled, and dreamed of my ideal HF transceiver.  I finally
 found the K3 and having looked (at least a cursory glance) at all the
 others, I was sold.  I saved my pennies and purchased.  I also got
 myself a 43' untuned vertical antenna, balun, and radial wires.
 
 My setup: K3/100 has 100 feet of low loss 400 coax out to the 43 foot
 vertical on the hill in my back yard.  It has 8 25 foot radials and a
 4:1 balun.  The K3 has the KATU3, KPA3, KTCXO3-1, KFL3A-400, and
 default 2.8KHz filters.  I assembled it and did followed the
 calibration instructions as well as I could.  I think I got
 everything, but obviously I missed something.  Or maybe I just need an
 elmer to tell me what to do.
 
 I cannot seem to find any signals that make the S meter go above a 3
 or 4.  I have the RF gain turned up a fair ways (mostly to the top),
 and I can hear static.  As I tune up some of the bands on SSB, I can
 hear a tone that changes higher in pitch as I tune up in frequency.  I
 have tried listening for CW, but I am hearing nothing as I scan
 through the bands.  I had a 10m horizontal dipole taped to my wall for
 a while until I found time to run the coax out to the back yard.  I
 had hoped that since it was resonant on the 10m band, maybe it would
 be able to pick up something, but it was no better (or worse) than my
 vertical.
 
 As far as I can tell, the radio seems to transmit.  I can see the
 power meter moving and the SWR meter moving.  The ATU seems to be able
 to find acceptable settings on most of the bands with the vertical.
 But I can't hear them.  You can't work them if you can't hear them,
 right?
 
 This is a desperate plea for help.  Is it the radio or me?  Please
 have pity on the n00b and walk me through my first HF contact.
 
 --Vernon N7OH
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-08 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
The only possible reason I can think of for using a Unun or Balun with any
end-fed (Marconi) antenna is to minimize RF on the outside of the coaxial
cable shield. But that seldom works because much of that RF is induced by
the field around the radiator itself, not caused by RF flowing around the
end of the shield at the antenna. 

The only scenario that comes to mind for an antenna springing to life when
a Unun is added is that it was set up according to the manufacturer's specs
without an SWR check at the feed point and the coax is detuning it. In that
case decoupling the outside of the coax might bring the system closer to
resonance and provide a better match to the feedline.

The only time I've considered a balun (or unun) is when I'm feeding a
balanced radiator that is at least 1/2 wavelength above the ground and I
particularly want to preserve its pattern. For example, the driven element
in a Yagi antenna.  

If the antenna isn't close to at least 1/2 wavelength above the earth, its
pattern is heavily influenced by the earth and structures within a few
wavelengths, and a balun or unun won't correct for that. 

Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Herring
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 2:30 PM
To: Vernon Mauery
Cc: Elecraft Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

Here's a follow-on question to the reflector...

Vernon's set-up brings a question to mind.  He says he's using a 4:1 balun
on his vertical.  At first brush that seems counterintuitive, doesn't it?
Isn't a vertical unbalanced?  Certainly the coax is unbalanced.  When you're
mating an unbalanced feedline with an unbalanced antenna, wouldn't one be
better off using an unun rather than a 4:1 balun?

In further support of my line of questioning, I've read numerous, albeit
anecdotal, reports of people being displeased with the performance of their
vertical, particularly the untuned ones like Zero-Five for example. But when
they add an unun they are then amazed at how the antenna allegedly sprung
to life.

73,
Dave  AH6TD

On Mar 8, 2011, at 6:20 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:

 Yes.  I can see the S-meter go from 3-4 down with static down to
 nothing with quieter static.  My best guess is that I am not trying
 the right times at the right places.
 
 Thanks to everyone for the help.
 
 --Vernon N7OH
 
 On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 8:12 AM, Ross Primrose N4RP n...@aiko.com wrote:
 Does the received noise decrease when you disconnect the antenna?
 
 73, Ross N4RP
 
 On 3/8/2011 1:06 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:
 At the risk of exposing what a n00b I am when it comes to HF, I really
 need some help.  I recently (last month) purchased a K3.  First HF
 radio I have owned.  I got my license 2 years ago and have spent most
 of the time since playing with VHF.  I have been trying to teach
 myself CW and decided that it was time to step into the HF waters.  I
 studied, ogled, and dreamed of my ideal HF transceiver.  I finally
 found the K3 and having looked (at least a cursory glance) at all the
 others, I was sold.  I saved my pennies and purchased.  I also got
 myself a 43' untuned vertical antenna, balun, and radial wires.
 
 My setup: K3/100 has 100 feet of low loss 400 coax out to the 43 foot
 vertical on the hill in my back yard.  It has 8 25 foot radials and a
 4:1 balun.  The K3 has the KATU3, KPA3, KTCXO3-1, KFL3A-400, and
 default 2.8KHz filters.  I assembled it and did followed the
 calibration instructions as well as I could.  I think I got
 everything, but obviously I missed something.  Or maybe I just need an
 elmer to tell me what to do.
 
 I cannot seem to find any signals that make the S meter go above a 3
 or 4.  I have the RF gain turned up a fair ways (mostly to the top),
 and I can hear static.  As I tune up some of the bands on SSB, I can
 hear a tone that changes higher in pitch as I tune up in frequency.  I
 have tried listening for CW, but I am hearing nothing as I scan
 through the bands.  I had a 10m horizontal dipole taped to my wall for
 a while until I found time to run the coax out to the back yard.  I
 had hoped that since it was resonant on the 10m band, maybe it would
 be able to pick up something, but it was no better (or worse) than my
 vertical.
 
 As far as I can tell, the radio seems to transmit.  I can see the
 power meter moving and the SWR meter moving.  The ATU seems to be able
 to find acceptable settings on most of the bands with the vertical.
 But I can't hear them.  You can't work them if you can't hear them,
 right?
 
 This is a desperate plea for help.  Is it the radio or me?  Please
 have pity on the n00b and walk me through my first HF contact.
 
 --Vernon N7OH
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-08 Thread Mike
I've heard quite a few people use balun, when they meant impedence transformer 
or unun.

I heard somewhere (and the tapes have been erased) that the 43' length came 
about 
because it was the most economical length for a manufacturer to cut stock with 
the 
least waste to meet shipping limitations.

73, Mike NF4L

On 3/8/2011 5:29 PM, David Herring wrote:
 Here's a follow-on question to the reflector...

 Vernon's set-up brings a question to mind.  He says he's using a 4:1 balun on 
 his vertical.  At first brush that seems counterintuitive, doesn't it?  Isn't 
 a vertical unbalanced?  Certainly the coax is unbalanced.  When you're mating 
 an unbalanced feedline with an unbalanced antenna, wouldn't one be better off 
 using an unun rather than a 4:1 balun?

 In further support of my line of questioning, I've read numerous, albeit 
 anecdotal, reports of people being displeased with the performance of their 
 vertical, particularly the untuned ones like Zero-Five for example. But when 
 they add an unun they are then amazed at how the antenna allegedly sprung to 
 life.

 73,
 Dave  AH6TD

 On Mar 8, 2011, at 6:20 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:

 Yes.  I can see the S-meter go from 3-4 down with static down to
 nothing with quieter static.  My best guess is that I am not trying
 the right times at the right places.

 Thanks to everyone for the help.

 --Vernon N7OH

 On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 8:12 AM, Ross Primrose N4RPn...@aiko.com  wrote:
 Does the received noise decrease when you disconnect the antenna?

 73, Ross N4RP

 On 3/8/2011 1:06 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:
 At the risk of exposing what a n00b I am when it comes to HF, I really
 need some help.  I recently (last month) purchased a K3.  First HF
 radio I have owned.  I got my license 2 years ago and have spent most
 of the time since playing with VHF.  I have been trying to teach
 myself CW and decided that it was time to step into the HF waters.  I
 studied, ogled, and dreamed of my ideal HF transceiver.  I finally
 found the K3 and having looked (at least a cursory glance) at all the
 others, I was sold.  I saved my pennies and purchased.  I also got
 myself a 43' untuned vertical antenna, balun, and radial wires.

 My setup: K3/100 has 100 feet of low loss 400 coax out to the 43 foot
 vertical on the hill in my back yard.  It has 8 25 foot radials and a
 4:1 balun.  The K3 has the KATU3, KPA3, KTCXO3-1, KFL3A-400, and
 default 2.8KHz filters.  I assembled it and did followed the
 calibration instructions as well as I could.  I think I got
 everything, but obviously I missed something.  Or maybe I just need an
 elmer to tell me what to do.

 I cannot seem to find any signals that make the S meter go above a 3
 or 4.  I have the RF gain turned up a fair ways (mostly to the top),
 and I can hear static.  As I tune up some of the bands on SSB, I can
 hear a tone that changes higher in pitch as I tune up in frequency.  I
 have tried listening for CW, but I am hearing nothing as I scan
 through the bands.  I had a 10m horizontal dipole taped to my wall for
 a while until I found time to run the coax out to the back yard.  I
 had hoped that since it was resonant on the 10m band, maybe it would
 be able to pick up something, but it was no better (or worse) than my
 vertical.

 As far as I can tell, the radio seems to transmit.  I can see the
 power meter moving and the SWR meter moving.  The ATU seems to be able
 to find acceptable settings on most of the bands with the vertical.
 But I can't hear them.  You can't work them if you can't hear them,
 right?

 This is a desperate plea for help.  Is it the radio or me?  Please
 have pity on the n00b and walk me through my first HF contact.

 --Vernon N7OH
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 FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the
 minimum transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired
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 Home: 

Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-08 Thread WILLIS COOKE
The 43 foot length is the optimum length for low angle radiation on 20 meters 
(5/8 wavelength).  It is also not an even half wave on the other bands so will 
match reasonably well with a proper coupler and a 4:1 unun.  It is a vertical 
equivalent of a G5RV.
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ 





From: Mike n...@nf4l.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tue, March 8, 2011 4:44:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

I've heard quite a few people use balun, when they meant impedence transformer 
or unun.

I heard somewhere (and the tapes have been erased) that the 43' length came 
about 

because it was the most economical length for a manufacturer to cut stock with 
the 

least waste to meet shipping limitations.

73, Mike NF4L

On 3/8/2011 5:29 PM, David Herring wrote:
 Here's a follow-on question to the reflector...

 Vernon's set-up brings a question to mind.  He says he's using a 4:1 balun on 
his vertical.  At first brush that seems counterintuitive, doesn't it?  Isn't 
a 
vertical unbalanced?  Certainly the coax is unbalanced.  When you're mating an 
unbalanced feedline with an unbalanced antenna, wouldn't one be better off 
using 
an unun rather than a 4:1 balun?

 In further support of my line of questioning, I've read numerous, albeit 
anecdotal, reports of people being displeased with the performance of their 
vertical, particularly the untuned ones like Zero-Five for example. But when 
they add an unun they are then amazed at how the antenna allegedly sprung to 
life.

 73,
 Dave  AH6TD

 On Mar 8, 2011, at 6:20 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:

 Yes.  I can see the S-meter go from 3-4 down with static down to
 nothing with quieter static.  My best guess is that I am not trying
 the right times at the right places.

 Thanks to everyone for the help.

 --Vernon N7OH

 On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 8:12 AM, Ross Primrose N4RPn...@aiko.com  wrote:
 Does the received noise decrease when you disconnect the antenna?

 73, Ross N4RP

 On 3/8/2011 1:06 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:
 At the risk of exposing what a n00b I am when it comes to HF, I really
 need some help.  I recently (last month) purchased a K3.  First HF
 radio I have owned.  I got my license 2 years ago and have spent most
 of the time since playing with VHF.  I have been trying to teach
 myself CW and decided that it was time to step into the HF waters.  I
 studied, ogled, and dreamed of my ideal HF transceiver.  I finally
 found the K3 and having looked (at least a cursory glance) at all the
 others, I was sold.  I saved my pennies and purchased.  I also got
 myself a 43' untuned vertical antenna, balun, and radial wires.

 My setup: K3/100 has 100 feet of low loss 400 coax out to the 43 foot
 vertical on the hill in my back yard.  It has 8 25 foot radials and a
 4:1 balun.  The K3 has the KATU3, KPA3, KTCXO3-1, KFL3A-400, and
 default 2.8KHz filters.  I assembled it and did followed the
 calibration instructions as well as I could.  I think I got
 everything, but obviously I missed something.  Or maybe I just need an
 elmer to tell me what to do.

 I cannot seem to find any signals that make the S meter go above a 3
 or 4.  I have the RF gain turned up a fair ways (mostly to the top),
 and I can hear static.  As I tune up some of the bands on SSB, I can
 hear a tone that changes higher in pitch as I tune up in frequency.  I
 have tried listening for CW, but I am hearing nothing as I scan
 through the bands.  I had a 10m horizontal dipole taped to my wall for
 a while until I found time to run the coax out to the back yard.  I
 had hoped that since it was resonant on the 10m band, maybe it would
 be able to pick up something, but it was no better (or worse) than my
 vertical.

 As far as I can tell, the radio seems to transmit.  I can see the
 power meter moving and the SWR meter moving.  The ATU seems to be able
 to find acceptable settings on most of the bands with the vertical.
 But I can't hear them.  You can't work them if you can't hear them,
 right?

 This is a desperate plea for help.  Is it the radio or me?  Please
 have pity on the n00b and walk me through my first HF contact.

 --Vernon N7OH
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-08 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
That's quite possible Mike, but there's an electrical reason for the 42'
10-80 meter vertical height. 

42 feet is 5/8 wavelength on 10 meters. Above that length, the pattern
shifts skyward quickly which greatly reduces DX performance on 10. 

It's still long enough to be very efficient on either 40 or 80 with a good
ground system. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 2:45 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

I've heard quite a few people use balun, when they meant impedence
transformer or unun.

I heard somewhere (and the tapes have been erased) that the 43' length came
about 
because it was the most economical length for a manufacturer to cut stock
with the 
least waste to meet shipping limitations.

73, Mike NF4L

On 3/8/2011 5:29 PM, David Herring wrote:
 Here's a follow-on question to the reflector...

 Vernon's set-up brings a question to mind.  He says he's using a 4:1 balun
on his vertical.  At first brush that seems counterintuitive, doesn't it?
Isn't a vertical unbalanced?  Certainly the coax is unbalanced.  When you're
mating an unbalanced feedline with an unbalanced antenna, wouldn't one be
better off using an unun rather than a 4:1 balun?

 In further support of my line of questioning, I've read numerous, albeit
anecdotal, reports of people being displeased with the performance of their
vertical, particularly the untuned ones like Zero-Five for example. But when
they add an unun they are then amazed at how the antenna allegedly sprung
to life.

 73,
 Dave  AH6TD

 On Mar 8, 2011, at 6:20 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:

 Yes.  I can see the S-meter go from 3-4 down with static down to
 nothing with quieter static.  My best guess is that I am not trying
 the right times at the right places.

 Thanks to everyone for the help.

 --Vernon N7OH

 On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 8:12 AM, Ross Primrose N4RPn...@aiko.com  wrote:
 Does the received noise decrease when you disconnect the antenna?

 73, Ross N4RP

 On 3/8/2011 1:06 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:
 At the risk of exposing what a n00b I am when it comes to HF, I really
 need some help.  I recently (last month) purchased a K3.  First HF
 radio I have owned.  I got my license 2 years ago and have spent most
 of the time since playing with VHF.  I have been trying to teach
 myself CW and decided that it was time to step into the HF waters.  I
 studied, ogled, and dreamed of my ideal HF transceiver.  I finally
 found the K3 and having looked (at least a cursory glance) at all the
 others, I was sold.  I saved my pennies and purchased.  I also got
 myself a 43' untuned vertical antenna, balun, and radial wires.

 My setup: K3/100 has 100 feet of low loss 400 coax out to the 43 foot
 vertical on the hill in my back yard.  It has 8 25 foot radials and a
 4:1 balun.  The K3 has the KATU3, KPA3, KTCXO3-1, KFL3A-400, and
 default 2.8KHz filters.  I assembled it and did followed the
 calibration instructions as well as I could.  I think I got
 everything, but obviously I missed something.  Or maybe I just need an
 elmer to tell me what to do.

 I cannot seem to find any signals that make the S meter go above a 3
 or 4.  I have the RF gain turned up a fair ways (mostly to the top),
 and I can hear static.  As I tune up some of the bands on SSB, I can
 hear a tone that changes higher in pitch as I tune up in frequency.  I
 have tried listening for CW, but I am hearing nothing as I scan
 through the bands.  I had a 10m horizontal dipole taped to my wall for
 a while until I found time to run the coax out to the back yard.  I
 had hoped that since it was resonant on the 10m band, maybe it would
 be able to pick up something, but it was no better (or worse) than my
 vertical.

 As far as I can tell, the radio seems to transmit.  I can see the
 power meter moving and the SWR meter moving.  The ATU seems to be able
 to find acceptable settings on most of the bands with the vertical.
 But I can't hear them.  You can't work them if you can't hear them,
 right?

 This is a desperate plea for help.  Is it the radio or me?  Please
 have pity on the n00b and walk me through my first HF contact.

 --Vernon N7OH
 __
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 --
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 minimum transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired
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 This list 

Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-08 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Good point Cookie. I was not considering a Unun that is also an impedance
transformer. They really are two different things, although in some special
cases such as you describe they can be combined. Another very common one is
the 4:1 Balun used to feed a folded 1/2 wave radiator. 

Ron AC7AC

-

From: WILLIS COOKE [mailto:wrco...@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 3:18 PM
To: Ron D'Eau Claire; David Herring; Vernon Mauery
Cc: Elecraft Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

I uses a 4:1 UnUn to feed a 105 ft. Marconi strung horizontally from the
sail of a submarine to a mast on the stern because EZNEC tells me that the
radiation resistance in near 200 ohms on the frequencies of interest and it
allows me to ground the braid where the coax exits the sail in effort to
minimize the radiation inside the metallic sail and the hull.  BalUns and
UnUns look a lot alike and are made from the same materials, but they are
not wound the same and are not interchangable.  Hopefully if you buy a 43
foot vertical and it comes with a transformer they will give you the right
thing, but if you home brew an antenna system you need to know the
difference.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-08 Thread w5ov
None of these old wive's tales are true.

The 43' length is a convenient non-resonant length - nothing else.

The balun was chosen originally because the 43' vertical was originally
planned to have one or two elevated radials only (making it balanced), and
it would load fine with a balun.

The problems came to be when full-blown radial systems were attached and
station grounds were connected to the radials, which again, were
originally intended to be elevated - i.e.; not grounded. What this did was
to short one side of the output of the balun to ground. So, when you
ground the radials, an UN-UN is preferable and works very well.

I have a 43' vertical with one of AD5X's 160 and 80 matching systems at
the base fed with an UN-UN and it works great.

I use it on all bands - 160 through 10m. Check out the ZL8X online log
with my call to see how well it works.

73,

Bob W5OV



 I've heard quite a few people use balun, when they meant impedence
 transformer or unun.

 I heard somewhere (and the tapes have been erased) that the 43' length
 came about
 because it was the most economical length for a manufacturer to cut stock
 with the
 least waste to meet shipping limitations.

 73, Mike NF4L

 On 3/8/2011 5:29 PM, David Herring wrote:
 Here's a follow-on question to the reflector...

 Vernon's set-up brings a question to mind.  He says he's using a 4:1
 balun on his vertical.  At first brush that seems counterintuitive,
 doesn't it?  Isn't a vertical unbalanced?  Certainly the coax is
 unbalanced.  When you're mating an unbalanced feedline with an
 unbalanced antenna, wouldn't one be better off using an unun rather than
 a 4:1 balun?

 In further support of my line of questioning, I've read numerous, albeit
 anecdotal, reports of people being displeased with the performance of
 their vertical, particularly the untuned ones like Zero-Five for
 example. But when they add an unun they are then amazed at how the
 antenna allegedly sprung to life.

 73,
 Dave  AH6TD

 On Mar 8, 2011, at 6:20 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:

 Yes.  I can see the S-meter go from 3-4 down with static down to
 nothing with quieter static.  My best guess is that I am not trying
 the right times at the right places.

 Thanks to everyone for the help.

 --Vernon N7OH

 On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 8:12 AM, Ross Primrose N4RPn...@aiko.com
 wrote:
 Does the received noise decrease when you disconnect the antenna?

 73, Ross N4RP

 On 3/8/2011 1:06 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:
 At the risk of exposing what a n00b I am when it comes to HF, I
 really
 need some help.  I recently (last month) purchased a K3.  First HF
 radio I have owned.  I got my license 2 years ago and have spent most
 of the time since playing with VHF.  I have been trying to teach
 myself CW and decided that it was time to step into the HF waters.  I
 studied, ogled, and dreamed of my ideal HF transceiver.  I finally
 found the K3 and having looked (at least a cursory glance) at all the
 others, I was sold.  I saved my pennies and purchased.  I also got
 myself a 43' untuned vertical antenna, balun, and radial wires.

 My setup: K3/100 has 100 feet of low loss 400 coax out to the 43 foot
 vertical on the hill in my back yard.  It has 8 25 foot radials and a
 4:1 balun.  The K3 has the KATU3, KPA3, KTCXO3-1, KFL3A-400, and
 default 2.8KHz filters.  I assembled it and did followed the
 calibration instructions as well as I could.  I think I got
 everything, but obviously I missed something.  Or maybe I just need
 an
 elmer to tell me what to do.

 I cannot seem to find any signals that make the S meter go above a 3
 or 4.  I have the RF gain turned up a fair ways (mostly to the top),
 and I can hear static.  As I tune up some of the bands on SSB, I can
 hear a tone that changes higher in pitch as I tune up in frequency.
 I
 have tried listening for CW, but I am hearing nothing as I scan
 through the bands.  I had a 10m horizontal dipole taped to my wall
 for
 a while until I found time to run the coax out to the back yard.  I
 had hoped that since it was resonant on the 10m band, maybe it would
 be able to pick up something, but it was no better (or worse) than my
 vertical.

 As far as I can tell, the radio seems to transmit.  I can see the
 power meter moving and the SWR meter moving.  The ATU seems to be
 able
 to find acceptable settings on most of the bands with the vertical.
 But I can't hear them.  You can't work them if you can't hear them,
 right?

 This is a desperate plea for help.  Is it the radio or me?  Please
 have pity on the n00b and walk me through my first HF contact.

 --Vernon N7OH
 __
 Elecraft mailing list
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 --
 FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station 

[Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-08 Thread Steve Ellington


 All this has nothing to do with his K3 but what about a Choke Balun? Is it 
 really a balun or is it a unun? We use the same device to feed a ground 
 mounted vertical to reduce RF on the coax and to feed a balanced dipole 
 with coax. It's both a balun and unun depending on how it's used.

 Steve
 N4LQ
 - Original Message - 
 From: Mike n...@nf4l.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 5:44 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving


 I've heard quite a few people use balun, when they meant impedence 
 transformer or unun.

 I heard somewhere (and the tapes have been erased) that the 43' length 
 came about
 because it was the most economical length for a manufacturer to cut stock 
 with the
 least waste to meet shipping limitations.

 73, Mike NF4L

 On 3/8/2011 5:29 PM, David Herring wrote:
 Here's a follow-on question to the reflector...

 Vernon's set-up brings a question to mind.  He says he's using a 4:1 
 balun on his vertical.  At first brush that seems counterintuitive, 
 doesn't it? Isn't a vertical unbalanced?  Certainly the coax is 
 unbalanced.  When you're mating an unbalanced feedline with an unbalanced 
 antenna, wouldn't one be better off using an unun rather than a 4:1 
 balun?

 In further support of my line of questioning, I've read numerous, albeit 
 anecdotal, reports of people being displeased with the performance of 
 their vertical, particularly the untuned ones like Zero-Five for example. 
 But when they add an unun they are then amazed at how the antenna 
 allegedly sprung to life.

 73,
 Dave  AH6TD

 On Mar 8, 2011, at 6:20 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:

 Yes.  I can see the S-meter go from 3-4 down with static down to
 nothing with quieter static.  My best guess is that I am not trying
 the right times at the right places.

 Thanks to everyone for the help.

 --Vernon N7OH

 On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 8:12 AM, Ross Primrose N4RPn...@aiko.com 
 wrote:
 Does the received noise decrease when you disconnect the antenna?

 73, Ross N4RP

 On 3/8/2011 1:06 AM, Vernon Mauery wrote:
 At the risk of exposing what a n00b I am when it comes to HF, I really
 need some help.  I recently (last month) purchased a K3.  First HF
 radio I have owned.  I got my license 2 years ago and have spent most
 of the time since playing with VHF.  I have been trying to teach
 myself CW and decided that it was time to step into the HF waters.  I
 studied, ogled, and dreamed of my ideal HF transceiver.  I finally
 found the K3 and having looked (at least a cursory glance) at all the
 others, I was sold.  I saved my pennies and purchased.  I also got
 myself a 43' untuned vertical antenna, balun, and radial wires.

 My setup: K3/100 has 100 feet of low loss 400 coax out to the 43 foot
 vertical on the hill in my back yard.  It has 8 25 foot radials and a
 4:1 balun.  The K3 has the KATU3, KPA3, KTCXO3-1, KFL3A-400, and
 default 2.8KHz filters.  I assembled it and did followed the
 calibration instructions as well as I could.  I think I got
 everything, but obviously I missed something.  Or maybe I just need an
 elmer to tell me what to do.

 I cannot seem to find any signals that make the S meter go above a 3
 or 4.  I have the RF gain turned up a fair ways (mostly to the top),
 and I can hear static.  As I tune up some of the bands on SSB, I can
 hear a tone that changes higher in pitch as I tune up in frequency.  I
 have tried listening for CW, but I am hearing nothing as I scan
 through the bands.  I had a 10m horizontal dipole taped to my wall for
 a while until I found time to run the coax out to the back yard.  I
 had hoped that since it was resonant on the 10m band, maybe it would
 be able to pick up something, but it was no better (or worse) than my
 vertical.

 As far as I can tell, the radio seems to transmit.  I can see the
 power meter moving and the SWR meter moving.  The ATU seems to be able
 to find acceptable settings on most of the bands with the vertical.
 But I can't hear them.  You can't work them if you can't hear them,
 right?

 This is a desperate plea for help.  Is it the radio or me?  Please
 have pity on the n00b and walk me through my first HF contact.

 --Vernon N7OH
 __
 Elecraft mailing list
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 --
 FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the
 minimum transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired
 communications.”

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 Please help support this email list: 

Re: [Elecraft] K3 not recieving

2011-03-08 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Quite right, Dave! I see Cookie has the right number. 

I'll cc the elecraft list to prevent any confusion, Hi! 

Ron 

-Original Message-

Ron,

43' is actually 5/8 on 20 meters, so the vertical is not so hot 
on 15 and 10.


Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Yuma, AZ


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[Elecraft] K2 7109 initial power on test

2011-03-08 Thread EMD
Well I'm happy to say that the initial power on test went well.  I have only
finished up to page 44 where it says RF Probe assembly, but I was happy to
see that it everything worked as advertised.  I have to say that I'm
delighted that I did not smell smoke or had any other problems sending me to
the trouble shooting section, so far. 

Excited 73,
Ed KE7HGA

--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-7109-initial-power-on-test-tp615p615.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 7109 initial power on test

2011-03-08 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Ed,

Congratulations!

Continue to have fun building the K2 - it gets better as it goes on.

Actually, that probe is the internal counter probe rather than an RF 
Probe.  The package does contain the parts for an RF Probe that you can 
assemble on the remains of the switch spacing tool, but no explicit 
instructions are provided.  The RF probe schematic is on page 9 of 
Appendix E.

Be watchful of the soldering, and leave no leads unsoldered - especially 
watch for the pin 1 problem - the solder pads for the ICs are round 
for the pin 1 location and rectangular for the others, so pin 1 is 
easily overlooked.

Do not work when you are tired - that is when mistakes happen, and be 
careful - some of those components have a habit of jumping out of the 
proper holes and getting into holes of their own desires.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/8/2011 8:21 PM, EMD wrote:
 Well I'm happy to say that the initial power on test went well.  I have only
 finished up to page 44 where it says RF Probe assembly, but I was happy to
 see that it everything worked as advertised.  I have to say that I'm
 delighted that I did not smell smoke or had any other problems sending me to
 the trouble shooting section, so far.

 Excited 73,
 Ed KE7HGA

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[Elecraft] CW to DATA question

2011-03-08 Thread jpk5lad

I see how the IM prosign is used to quickly terminate a 
transmission when sending via the key to keyer connection but I 
can't find how that IM can be implemented using the K3 
Terminal program.  

I've searched archive messages and through the documentation 
but I'm not having any luck finding an answer.  I've tried to just 
append the prosign characters at the end of what I'm sending but, 
of course, it sends IM instead of stopping.  Are there some 
characters required to enclose the IM or how is it actually done?

Any help is appreciated.
73,
Jim - K5LAD





It's so simple to be wise. Just think of something
stupid to say and then don't say it. -- Sam Levenson
=
My Web Page - http://www.hayseed.net/~jpk5lad


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Re: [Elecraft] standard vs stainless steel screws

2011-03-08 Thread Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF
Hi Doug,
I had the Stainless Steel kit in installed into my K3 when it was factory built 
and I swear by them. 
(I reckon that if it had standard screws in it I would be swearing AT them!)
I live right on the east coast of Australia in the tropics where we get salt 
spray, floods, cyclones (hurricanes) and all manner of other weather delights.
I am sure that if my K3 had the standard screws in it that it would have rust 
stains all over the radio by now. (And the radio is not yet 1 year old!)

My $0.02c worth, keep the change!

Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF
Innisfail, QLD, Australia
Elecraft K3# 4257 + PR6 - K144XV = multiband goodness!

  - Original Message - 
  From: Doug Faunt N6TQS 510-655-8604 
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 4:08 AM
  Subject: [Elecraft] standard vs stainless steel screws


  This was discussed in depth a while back, but I though I'd report my 
  experience.

  I took my K3 to Niue and Norfolk Island for a couple of weeks each in 
  their spring.  In both cases, we were high over the ocean, not close but 
  it was visible, and humidity was often high.
  My K3 now has a dozen screws that now have rusty heads- the 8 fan 
  mounting screws and the 4 speaker mounting screws.  I have the SS screw 
  kit in hand, but haven't gotten to installing them.

  I also had a minor KAT3 failure, I think due to the amount of 
  transportation, about which I'll report later.

  73, doug
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Re: [Elecraft] standard vs stainless steel screws

2011-03-08 Thread Gary Gregory
*Hey Jeff,

Your K3 got floaties yet?...:-)

Gary
*
On 9 March 2011 15:10, Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF vk4bof.elecr...@gmail.comwrote:

 Hi Doug,
 I had the Stainless Steel kit in installed into my K3 when it was factory
 built and I swear by them.
 (I reckon that if it had standard screws in it I would be swearing AT
 them!)
 I live right on the east coast of Australia in the tropics where we get
 salt spray, floods, cyclones (hurricanes) and all manner of other weather
 delights.
 I am sure that if my K3 had the standard screws in it that it would have
 rust stains all over the radio by now. (And the radio is not yet 1 year
 old!)

 My $0.02c worth, keep the change!

 Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF
 Innisfail, QLD, Australia
 Elecraft K3# 4257 + PR6 - K144XV = multiband goodness!

  - Original Message -
  From: Doug Faunt N6TQS 510-655-8604
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 4:08 AM
  Subject: [Elecraft] standard vs stainless steel screws


  This was discussed in depth a while back, but I though I'd report my
  experience.

  I took my K3 to Niue and Norfolk Island for a couple of weeks each in
  their spring.  In both cases, we were high over the ocean, not close but
  it was visible, and humidity was often high.
  My K3 now has a dozen screws that now have rusty heads- the 8 fan
  mounting screws and the 4 speaker mounting screws.  I have the SS screw
  kit in hand, but haven't gotten to installing them.

  I also had a minor KAT3 failure, I think due to the amount of
  transportation, about which I'll report later.

  73, doug
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-- 

*VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile
Elecraft Equipment
K3 #679, KPA-500 #018
Living the dream!!!*
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