Kevin,
The KAT100-2 has all the 'hooks' to mount the KPA100 in the same EC-2
enclosure.
If you already have a KAT100-1, there is a conversion kit to add the
missing pieces, but you will have to order the EC2 enclosure
separately. This is a 'no holes' solution.
73,
Don W3FPR
KBG Luxford wro
JT and all,
Pins 2 and 3 are not swapped on the K2 either. The problem is that the
K2 used the nomenclature differently than the K3. The K2 used 'TXD' to
denote the line *it* was sending on and 'RXD' to denote the line it was
receiving on. The K3 apparently uses the opposite nomenclature a
I had a typo in the last part of my previous note. That should have
been *K3*.
Do *not* use a standard serial cable with the K2!
Sorry,
Don W3FPR
Don Wilhelm wrote:
So *if* only RXD and TXD with Signal Ground are needed for the
application, yes, the K2 cable (computer end, not KAT100 or XV
Lee,
The KAT100 (note no dashes in Elecraft model numbers - except for the
N-Gen :-) ) does not automatically go to a bypass mode. If you tune it
into a 50 ohm resistive load, you may find it tunes to some small
inductance and capacity in-circuit and may actually increase the SWR a
small bit
JT,
Those symptoms could indicate that the 15 meter entries in the EEPROM
have been corrupted.
Try running CAL PLL before doing anything else - don't forget to plug
the frequency counter into TP1 and switch to 40 meters.
If CAL PLL does not correct it, record all your menu entries and try a
David,
Most any indoor antenna is in close proximity to the transceiver, and it
is quite likely (even with the most carefully balanced antennas) to have
RF floating around most everywhere, including the transceiver chassis
and any earthing wires.
I would suggest that you may be better off tr
David,
I do not believe that RF on the chassis could easily cause a frequency
shift, but then who knows because each situation like that is different.
I suggest that you first take a good look at your SSB FL1 filter for
both LSB and USB. If you have the curently normal SSB filter width of
2
73,
Don W3FPR
David Woolley wrote:
Don Wilhelm wrote:
refer to the K2 Dial Calibration article on my website
http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com for techniques to accurately set the 4 MHz
reference oscillator and the following steps to achieve good dial
calibration.
Unfortunately, the sun doesn
RC,
While the Elecraft W1 is a good instrument and has LEDs to indicate the
level, I believe the steps between the illumination of each progressive
LED are too large to substitute for an analog meter.
If your DMM has a pseudo-analog bar display, you could use that in
conjunction with an RF P
David,
It may help if you mentally divorce the physical VFOs from the A and B
designations and think of the DISPLAYED frequencies.
The main receiver will receive on whatever frequency is displayed on the
VFO A readout, the sub-receiver (if installed) will receive on whatever
frequency is dis
these are things I'll be able to figure out once I get the K3, but I
got to do something while I'm waiting for the Big Brown Van
On 16/10/07 14:18, "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:
David,
It may help if you mentally divorce the physical VFOs from the A a
Ken,
First, investigate the filter settings for RTTY with Spectrogram. Be
certain the FL1 positions are correct (use the OP1 filter and set the
BFOs similar to those used for SSB FL1). You may set the RTTY FL2, FL3,
FL4 filters any way you wish, but FL1 must be set to OP1 and the BFOs
corre
Stephen,
The air exits just behind the front plate - through the fins of the heat
sink. There is lots of exit area, no need to worry.
As far as just how fast the fan comes on, that depends on the
temperature (of the heat sink at the PA transistor locations). CAL TPA
must be set in the menu
Joe,
I am not certain why the Elecraft mike would have that kind of problem
and not the Icom mic. I have trouble believing it has anything to do
with the particular mike.
Get out the computer and Spectrogram (or similar tool) and check the
position of the IF filter passband for both LSB and
Jonathan,
I don't really know why the T1 would be off topic here, but ...
The answer to your question has two parts:
1) in theory, a half wave wire is an antenna complete in itself and does
not need anything else - and that is true whether it is fed at the end
or at the center or anywhere in b
Ken,
I believe those units are already dBm - nothing else makes sense, and
there is a missing minus sign on the last one. +81.5 dBm would be a
very large signal - 141.3 kilowatts into 50 ohms - minus 81.50 dBm does
make sense.
If you want a handy tool for dB calculations, you may want to do
Joe,
Easy - go into the menu, select ST L, then press EDIT to edit the
parameter. Tap DISPLAY to toggle the sidetone source. When you hear
sidetone, stop tapping DISPLAY.
73,
Don W3FPR
Joe Fowler wrote:
Well, I did it. While playing with my K2's menu, I killed my sidetone. Any
Ideas? Tnx
Typical of news reports, the media seems to concentrate on the
sensational. Certainly, the proliferation of throw-away consumer
electronics ending up in landfills is a grave concern for adding to the
lead content of our environment, and I applaud the efforts to keep that
to a minimum.
But, c
RoHS compliance. This is really a
two-edged sword.
73,
Don W3FPR
Mike S wrote:
At 12:28 AM 10/19/2007, Don Wilhelm wrote...
The 'tin-whiskers' problem is one that exists mainly at the chip level.
The migration of conductive paths between pins that can be soldered
by hand techniques is
Michael,
Although an absolute null would indeed be zero, the 10 to 12 range is
about as low as you can get - the K2 display is reading in millivolts
and there is some noise picked up and coupled into the op amp input
which limits the low end of the reading capability. The same problem is
tru
It is not all in the solder, the problem even for RoHS exemptions is the
tin plating on the components.
73, Don W3FPR
Matt Palmer wrote:
main problem with the article is both space programs and military are
exempt from being ROHS compliant, so why would lead free solder be in
a satellite?
Dom,
Look first for an unsoldered connection somewhere on the Control Board
or on the Front Panel Board (the control board is the most likely place
for the problem).
Often unsoldered connections can work for several years before they
develop enough oxidation to cause a break in what was only
Denis,
That little 'chirrup' should go away after you run CAL PLL. Make
certain you have the bottom cover in place when you do run it.
L34 tuning is quite broad and should be adjusted for the best signal to
noise ratio. Rather than using a signal generator, the best method is
to turn on th
David,
The procedure which relies on tuning to a broadcast signal of known
frequency and uses the internal counter (along with some swapping of the
counter probe between TP1 and TP2) eliminates any slight error in the
'exactness' of the 4 MHz reference - it is automatically equalized out
of t
Dave,
I don't know what your past experience with double sided foam pads have
been, but ---
If you have ever tried to remove the speaker shield from the speaker in
a KPA100, you would be convinced about the truly sticky nature of the
adhesive used on the Elecraft speaker shields - it is real
Jim,
A bit of operational theory first:
The K2 power control circuit is a feedback control loop which includes
the gain of the entire transmit chain in its control loop. As a result,
when the KPA100 is added, the loop gain for some K2s is increased so
much that the loop oscillates. A quick s
Werner,
Unfortunately, there is no universally accepted way of marking
capacitors, so I can only guess a bit here.
What I do know is that the 100 pf capacitors that have shipped with
recent Elecraft kits have short leads. Those small leads tend to hide
themselves stuck in other components.
Denis,
Your 12/10 meter problem will likely be found either in the Low Pass
Filter or the Bandpass filter area. Look for an improper component
value or a bad solder connection.
Your audio problem (and sidetone) sound suspiciously like bad solder
connections. Check the Control Board over ca
Richard,
U3B should be easy to test. The voltage at pin 7 should always be the
same as that at pin 5.
Set the P7 jumper to the EXT position and use the internal voltmeter
probe while checking.
Connect the probe to the 5 volt regulator (U5) output pin and monitor
the voltage at U3 pin 5 with y
Rod,
I believe you had a typo - the PLL range must be between 9.8 and 15 kHz,
so your PLL range is on the low side by quite a bit, and should be
corrected (it could possibly be the cause of your 'no signals on 40'
situation).
First do some more verification steps - carefully check the solder
Clark,
What were you using as input to the K1 antenna? You must have a source
of wideband noise that is well above the noise floor of the receiver to
see a well defined passband shape in the Spectrogram display.
If you did have a good display of the passband shape, and you see little
reduct
For those interested in shipping times to England, I recently sent a
KPA100 from North Carolina to a ham in Barnstaple, England by USPS
Priority Mail and it was in his hands 13 days later. Times will vary,
but if I understand correctly, much of the time variation seems to be
time waiting for t
Michael,
When the KI6WX KSB2 Increased Gain Mod is added and used with the
KPA100, there is a good chance that the ALC circuits on the KSB2 board
will be overdriven. This situation was identified about 3 years ago and
can be found in the reflector archives for those who wish to view the
orig
Matt,
It does sit flush when fully seated. You may have one of two problems.
The first thing to check is your soldering of the individual sockets to
the wires. If you allowed solder to wick up into the socket area, you
have plugged the hole for the pin and it will never fit fully on - it
o
Michael,
If you are talking of continuous key-down, that long a period could
cause a problem. The K2 power should be limited to 5 watts for
continuous keying (or continuous duty data modes).
'Transmit cycles' of 15 minutes would be transmitting normal CW as in a
QSO - that places the maximum
Werner,
I do believe the 1/2 watt designation is a typo - I have not seen a 1/2
watt resistor as part of the upgrade kit.
Since you ordered the KPA100UPKT, send an email to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
and ask for the 0.22 uf capacitor that is used at C31. This capacitor
*should* be included with the KP
Werner,
If you look at the new KPA100 schematic and parts list (download the new
manual), you will see that C31 has a value of 0.22 uF. The KPA100UPKT
instructions tell you to change the value on the schematic, but there is
no new C31 included with the kit.
In fact, I was directly involved
And I might add that if you cannot obtain the knob itself, you might
inquire about the rubber tire. The tire from the FT-900 is best if it
is still available, but the FT-100 tire will work too. With a bit of a
stretch, either will fit over the stock K2 knob. If you like the finger
dimple, El
Kurt,
Check your KX1 menu setting for the STP parameter - the KX1 should
offset by that amount during transmit.
When you said "I knew I was on the calling stations frequency" - do you
mean that you tuned the station to the same audio frequency as your STP
menu parameter? If so, then your tr
John,
Did the KAT100 come with a cable to hook it up? If so, it should have 3
connectors on that cable. The center one plugs into the K2/100, the one
at the (usually longer) end with a female DE9 connector (has sockets not
pins) on it will plug into the computer. The shorter end with the ma
John,
Elecraft does not sell pre-assembled cables. The one you have there
sounds like it is the correct one. It is both a serial cable (the long
end) and a K2 to KAT100 communication cable. The conductors used are
different on each end of the cable.
You must connect the *center* DE9 conne
1000 FT-2000s is not a large number! Compare that with over 6000 K2s,
about 2500 K1s and at least 1800 KX1s if I recall the serial numbers
that have come to my attention. I have no idea how many K3s are on
order, but my guess is that it is close to 1000 already.
73,
Don W3FPR
Mike Fatchett
Euan,
Wires 1 and 2 are on the same winding, and 3 and 4 are the other
winding, and it is symmetrical about the axis that tuns through the
center of the core. In other words, if you flip it over in that manner,
it looks the same - no need to change it.
Now if you had turned it around the ot
Drew,
If you have to order on-line, try Buxcomm (www.buxcomm.com). Look for
their CBC8 - it is $1.95 and no minimum order.
Google for 8 pin microphone connector to find many other sources.
73,
Don W3FPR
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Does anyone know where I can get a 8-pin mic plug for the K2?
Leigh,
The N0SS amp keying circuit for the QRP K2 requires only the 8R, +6
volts and ground.
Yes, you could contain the entire amp keying board within the top cover
and use one of the BNC sized transverter holes for the output connector
(or drill a new hole). The 8R signal is available at t
Terry,
It does sound like you are making good progress. Take things one step at a
time and you will get up to speed - don't try to rush it.
Are your tuned radials right on the ground? If they are, the proximity to
ground will de-tune them negating all your hard work!!! If you can elevate
them
Guido,
The BFO RANGE is not sufficient to set the BFO far enough from the carrier
and permit a tone of 2295 Hz on both sidebands. You will need a minimum
range of 4590 Hz (and likely at least 500 Hz more will be required for a
comfortable margin). Your range is only 4180 Hz.
You could try incre
Folks,
I have not really seen a difference, but after looking the headers have
changed.
I filter on [Elecraft] in the subject line and that has worked well for me.
73,
Don W3FPR
- Original Message -
> In general, To and From headers shouldn't be used to filter list traffic.
Properly u
Folks,
I didn't know that the 2.2 (or 2.3) kHz SSB filter had become the
'standard', but it does get my vote. I have long advocated the KI6WX 2.2
kHz filter bandwidth as my choice for a great compromise between 'punch' for
QRP operation and good SSB fidelity. It does offer a flatter passband tha
John,
There is not much you can do about the antenna efficiency short of changing
the physical characteristics of the antenna itself - if it works, it works
and the voltage/current relationship at the feedpoint will determine its
impedance and how easily it can be matched.
A balun does not make s
John,
For your long wire situation, one set should be sufficient to provide
adequate RF grounding at your tuner loaction - or if you prefer you could
use an artificial ground instead (see recent discussion on the reflector).
The situation with a monopole antenna is quite different than feeding a l
Vic,
You are entirely correct - and I have long advocated thinking about the
'ground' terms separately. It should be common knowledge (but it isn't)
that one 'ground' can be at a different potential than another 'ground'. I
learned early in my hamming days because we often referred to 'chassis
g
Rolf,
Just a guess based on limited information -- if you have the Elecraft
antenna tuner installed, you may have changed from ANT1 to ANT2 and have the
antenna connected to ANT1.
Ask what you have changed in the menu since it last worked.
73,
Don W3FPR
- Original Message -
> Hi every
Steve,
If you are seeing an oscillation of the power output level, you might try
reducing the ALC loop gain.
One can increase the value of R98 on the RF Board to decrease the gain
through the K2 power determining ALC loop. If the value is increased too
much, the power output on 10 meters will be
Jerry,
Different manufacturers use different body colors - the Elecraft manuals
are slowly being scrubbed to eliminate any references to body colors as
identifying markings - the only real markings that count are the color
coded bands.
So yes, leave RFC13 as is and use one of the other 100 u
I do not have specific suggestions and you have already received several
that are workable, but I would caution about using a wall wart with any
gear. Most wall wart supplies are not regulated and have a no-load
output voltage well above the voltage marked on the case. I have
several '12 VDC'
Werner,
While there is nothing wrong with testing it in the EC2, that throws two
or mare variables into the equation - the KIO2 and the cables.
I recommend that you first do the setup and testing with the KPA100
laying upside down on the right side of the K2 with the normal
connections. The
Art,
I would use the RG6 coax which is commonly available at Home Depot and
Lowes. If you want to use PL-259 connectors, the adapters for RG59/RG8X
will normally fit.
Even though it is 75 ohm, and in a 50 ohm system will operate with an
SWR of 1.5 - if you look at the loss figures carefully
Doug,
I beg to differ. There are physical properties that give rise to the
characteristic impedance which are related to the dielectric properties
and the relative conductor diameters for the center conductor and the
braid. These same properties will create a particular RF voltage
handling
Werner,
If you connect only the KPA100, the stock inductor is usually fine. If
you have aspirations to add the KAT100, or the Elecraft transverters,
then you should replace the stock inductor. About 12 turns of wire on a
small ferrite toroid core should work nicely.
73,
Don W3FPR
Dr. Wern
You use it because of 2 characteristics. 1) It has lower loss than an
equal physical size 50 ohm cable - and that is true even considering the
added loss due to mismatch. 2) It is conviently available and inexpensive.
Considering the added loss due to a 1.5 SWR, look at the charts. If the
m
Kristina,
The KAT2 has a much greater tuning range, handles 2 antennas and
remembers the last tuned settings for each band on both antennas.
Communication between the K2 and KAT2 is automatic and quite painless.
Of course, if you need a remote tuner (mounted at the antenna for
example), the
Peter (and interested others),
You might want to peruse the article "Antennas, Transmission Lines, and
Tuners" at my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com.
The article tries to flatten several myths in terms that should be
understood by most hams - no math, but I believe a good explanation of
pr
Kieth,
I use 'Goop' on those pads. The pads will stick nicely to a flat
surface, but the solder leads on the KXB30 are just not flat enough.
Super-Glue and other thin adhesives do not have the gap filling
characteristics that are needed. An alternative to Goop is something
like 'ShoeGoo'.
Kevin,
Since you are searching for a possible break in the board traces or a
thru-plated hole, you may do better with a scan of the board rather than
the schematic. There are scans of the KDSP2 board available at Tom
Hammond's website www.n0ss.net
73,
Don W3FPR
KBG Luxford wrote:
I am tryi
Len,
Are you certain it is a relay problem?
Does your 4 band board work on 15/17 meters without manually setting any
relays?
If it is a relay problem, the reset state of the relays is with the 15
meter band selected and you should be able to align and operate it on
that band.
Can you turn t
William,
You said 40, 30 and 20 worked once, but not now - that says any problem
is in an area shared by all bands.
The first thing to do would be to check the coax cables, any adapters
and the dummy load for a bad connection. I prefer to reduce any extra
things in the setup because they too
Curt,
There seems to be a misconception among hams that when using 450 ladder
line, a 4:1 balun is the best thing to use. While that may be true in
some cases, in many other cases, a 1:1 balun will serve better. It all
depends on the feedpoint impedance of the feedline at the shack end, and
You are quite correct. My favorite tuner of all is a link coupled
balanced tuner, and it is L B Cebik's favorite too - low loss and can be
configured to match just about anything - series tuning for low
impedances or parallel for higher impedances. I have built many over
the years. No balun
Peter,
Antenna and transmission line behavior is a strange 'animal' that does
not mesh with our normal thoughts of electron flow in wires. It is
indeed a complex subject that must be considered in 4 dimensions to be
fully analyzed, and our brains think in only 3 dimensions. How an
electrom
Yes, I fear that many hams do not realize how much loss is being
introduced by their tuners. It has been stated that MFJ makes good
tuners, but my experience with their MFJ-963D and the MFJ-971 tuners say
otherwise - the inductor is mounted too close to the enclosure which
reduces the inductor
Mike,
Take a look at the loss from 0.40 inch diameter 75 ohm coax that may be
available free as cutoffs from your cable installing company - it is
burial rated and will often outperform the 50 ohm coax when you do the
loss calculations.
You are correct that the matched line loss will vary wi
Werner,
The new T/R switch design eliminates RFC10. It was a source of trouble
because it could cause a 40 meter parasitic oscillation. That problem
was usually noticed when operating with a KAT100.
Do not install RFC10 in the updated KPA100.
73,
Don W3FPR
Dr. Werner Furlan wrote:
hello,
I have not seen it mentioned yet, but the best installation of open wire
line will tension the conductors between 2 supports. That means fewer
spacers are required because the tensioned wires do not sway as much in
the wind.
For my part, PVC spacers are easy to construct and inexpensive.
73,
Dick,
As an alternative, you can make a direct connection to the battery (put
a fuse in for safety please) and use one of the SmartChargers to keep
the battery topped off. Take a look at my website article at
http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com to see how I did it.
73,
Don W3FPR
Dick Dievendorff wro
Kieth,
I commonly use component leads that are lying around my workbench.
Things are a bit easier if you use the longer ones clipped from
capacitors, but most any will do the job. Yes, use solid wire rather
than stranded so it will support the board.
Since you powered the KX1 on with no sh
Chris,
I cannot relate 'sidetone in the headset' with SSB operation. In CW,
there is a sidetone presented to the headphones or speaker which follows
the keying, but there is nothing of that sort for SSB. If you lost your
CW sidetone while using the K2 memory, that is quite another matter.
Just my opinion here:
For those who have the 'where-with-all' to build a proper adapter for
these PC microphones and headsets, many of them will work just fine -
some even great. Besides, they are inexpensive things to experiment
with just to see if you can make it work for your use.
But if th
Lyle,
Since the K3 hardware design is pretty well fixed in place now, for my
part I would think mixing them would be fine. Any muting of an input
would have to be done outside the K3 if indeed muting is required.
Of course, I believe the ideal would be to have each PTT input line make
its o
John,
Did you set up R10 properly? See page 28 of the new XV User's Manual
for instructions. You may download the manual if you have an older one.
(I am certain it is in the older manual too, just not certain where).
73,
Don W3FPR
I've just resurrected my XV144 after a year of none use.
I did not really want to get into this discussion, but I now feel moved
to make a few observations.
First, I don't believe the use of DeoxIT /ProGold will hurt anything
*if* used properly. I would not use DeoxIT on gold connectors or the
ProGold on tin connectors - the effects are different.
Oliver,
The padding of the back seat is all you likely need for quick transport
- the K2 is not as fragile as the cautions that many folks propose would
suggest.
If you want something that elephants (airline baggage handlers :-) ) can
stomp on without harming it, I would believe the pelican
Ron,
You don't!!!
Depending on linear amplifier compression to control the driver output
level is a sure way to introduce distortion into your transmitter path.
Keep the drive level down to the point where the amplifier just peaks to
max output or below that level and all will be well (i.e. t
Don,
I have built several K2s, and I know for a fact that the toroids do not
change due to vibrations due to portable/mobile operation. I expect the
K3 to be similar. At least one of the K2s that I have built has seen
service in mobile operation in an 18 wheeler for several years, and I
don
A friend who bought a used K2 created a Reference Guide to help
fqmiliarize himself with the K2 buttons and the menu functions. He has
generously allowed me to post his work on my website.
It can be found right now at www.qsl.net/w3fpr - scroll down on the
opening page a bit and you will find i
Sarah,
Congratulations on getting your license and venturing to build your K2.
The AGC Threshold high limit is directly proportional to the 8 volt
regulator actual output - if you follow the circuit you will discover
that that voltage is really the result of a 3 legged resistive voltage
divid
Al,
AFAIK, you are correct - the large value resistor is primarily there to
protect the person wearing the wrist strap.
However, I do not like to do any electronic or electrical work on a
directly grounded and conductive surface - period. IMHO, there is too
much of a chance to create a shor
Gil,
The FT-900 knob is no longer available. You can add an FT-900 (or ft100
or FT847) tire to your stock K2 knob and add the Elecraft finger dimple
too. The stock K2 knob has adequate weight if the drag is adjusted
properly, but the sharp edge is a problem for me - the rubber tire helps
dr
Werner,
If they all look the same, they are all good. The old inductive
resistors had a light-blue body, the new ones have a red-brown body color.
I have mentioned many times that body color is not a good means of
identifying components, but for KPA100 R19 and R20, it is good for now -
if E
Dave,
A BFO shift of up to 20 Hz is to be expected.
If you have 100 Hz shifts, then you need to run CAL PLL again - using
Spectrogram if possible. Note that you should use a broadband noise
source or band noise (with the preamp on) with no signals present.
Attempting to set the BFOs with a
Tom Hammond caught my 'too quick response' I should have typed CAL FIL
below - not CAL PLL.
Sorry all and thanks to Tom for noticing.
73,
Don W3FPR
Don Wilhelm wrote:
Dave,
A BFO shift of up to 20 Hz is to be expected. If you have 100 Hz
shifts, then you need to run CAL PLL aga
David,
Having to study the National Electrical Code prior to building and
wiring my house, I can talk a bit about the safety grounding for
residential AC power in the US - All exposed metallic components of the
electrical wiring system must be connected to the electrical safety
ground. The
Jerry and all,
There are a few soldering stations that have isolated tips (they also
say they are ESD safe) that can be used when working on live circuits.
The Solomon soldering station that I have is an isolated tip.
73,
Don W3FPR
Jeremiah McCarthy wrote:
Until retirement in 1993, I worke
Stephen,
There is a lot of ripple in the variable filter passband when it is set
to a wide filter value. Even with the ripple, the filter is quite
usable on SSB voice, but for data modes, it does have its shortcomings.
That is one good reason that I set up the RTTY filter set for use on
dat
Ron,
On all of the modern 2 wire appliances that I have, there is no exposed
metal - it is all plastic or otherwise insulated.
There was an appliance designation that is termed "Double Insulated"
that used to be in common use. Double Insulated devices depend on the
fact that you cannot touch an
Norm,
Keep the feedline away from conductors by 3 times the line spacing -
more if you can. You may be able to find TV standoffs for 300 ohm line.
An end fed Zepp antenna will work nicely if it is 1/2 wave long and the
feedline is 1/4 wave (or any odd multiple). If those conditions are not
Bill,
I believe folks are worrying too much about a 'true earth ground' when
considering ESD - it is actually only necessary that everything at the
workspace (including the worker) is at the same potential - it matters
not whether that potential is at Mother Earth Ground potential or
hundreds
Mark,
If you had infinite readings on those that you marked 'XX', then they
too are OK.
Note the '>' symbol before the number - it means 'greater than', and
infinity is greater than 100k ohms.
The readings listed have to cover all meters and circumstances. An
ohmmeter on a high resistance s
Ahhh, come on Henry - Surely, you can spare $20 for an anti-static mat
to protect your $1300+++ investment in the K3 kit!
TigerDirect (www.tigerdirect.com) has their stock number ULT33122 priced
at $19.99. I don't know if they are available in the local store, but a
phone call might give you
Werner,
The KPA100 does not distinguish between CW and SSB - input RF is input
RF and it operates in a linear curve with a gain of approximately 10 dB,
so 10 watts in will produce 100 watts out and 2 watts in will produce 20
watts out and everything proportionally in between.
How does your
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