Re: [Elecraft] KX2 lowers frequency with PTT

2018-06-14 Thread VK7JB
Well, I just checked and switching MIC BTN to PTT has resolved the issue.
Thanks!  

Looking more carefully, the frequency down-jumping glitch occurs on my KX3
about every 10-20 actuations of the PTT switch - the timing seems random,
but is often enough to be irritating.  And it stops with the change in the
MIC BTN menu item to PTT.  

73,
John
VK7JB 



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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 lowers frequency with PTT

2018-06-12 Thread VK7JB
Hi Wayne - XIT on KX3 definitely off here.

John
VK7JB



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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 lowers frequency with PTT

2018-06-12 Thread VK7JB
Hi Adrian,

My KX3 has demonstrated this “feature” from the very beginning. As you
describe, it always jumps down exactly 0.01 and only ever as I hit PTT on
the hand mic.  I’m happy to know I’m not alone! 

73,
John
VK7JB 



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - background hiss (noisy K3) - update

2015-09-29 Thread VK7JB
Hello Bozidar,

I have K3 #5102 and also well preserved high frequency hearing. I've had the
same hiss on my K3 audio since it arrived from the factory. I've used a wide
range of headphones, expensive and cheap, and it's present with them all. I
discovered that the fix is to introduce some resistance into the audio line
and I use a very small, outboard, stereo headphone volume control to do
this. I bought several for a few dollars on eBay. I just dial in a very
small amount of resistance(I've never actually measured how much) and the
hiss is completely gone, with only a very small effect on the K3 audio
volume which can be easily compensated for by a tiny increase in the AF gain
control if you need to. I have the same hiss on my KX3 audio, which I manage
in the same way. 

FWIW, I have no hiss at all using the same headphones on my little KX1. 

Hope that helps,
73,
John VK7JB



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Problem

2012-09-23 Thread VK7JB
So if this is a known issue that's been present for a year in the life of a
new product, one claim of which is tight integration into a chain of
products, what's the expected time frame to resolution?  I just bought a
KPA500 precisely because of this integration but I see now I'll face this
problem, because I run a manual tuner. 

Hopefully they're on to it for the next release. 

John
VK7JB






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[Elecraft] KPA3 power connector mod ...

2012-09-19 Thread VK7JB
Hello Group,

Just noticed KPA3 power connector modification document on the website and
reference to the KPA3CONMDKT modification kit.

Is it suggested that this mod be done preventively, or only in the event
that the oxidation issue strikes?

Is there a date, after which the new gold connectors were incorporated into
the KPA3?  I'm not keen to pull my K3 apart to see if mine is at risk or
not.

Cheers,
John
VK7JB



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and AL-811 amplifier interfacing...

2012-09-07 Thread VK7JB


Hi Todd,

Tnx for your note. I've removed the ARB704 interface and all is well. I've 
fingers crossed that the pulse canceling diode remains healthy. When I posted 
my question, I'd had trouble finding the specs on the K3 keying circuit in the 
manual - they're there, but couldn't find them!. I felt happy when I found it's 
so robust. 

Thanks for your interest. 
73
John VK7JB

On 08/09/2012, at 1:48, Todd - k1tm [via Elecraft] 
ml-node+s365791n7562241...@n2.nabble.com wrote:

 The AL-811 manual states that Relay:  keys amplifier when grounded.  Sources 
 +12 VDC open  
 circuit and supplies 100mA when grounded.  A built-in pulse canceling diode 
 protects the exciter.  
 
 The K3 is pretty robust KEY OUT (RCA/Phono) is the amplifier T-R relay 
 keying output, capable of keying up to +200VDC @ 5A.  The relay coils back 
 emf is contained by the diode across it. 
 
 So, no issues switching the AL-811.  5A's and 200Vdc withstand voltage, beats 
 100ma and an applied 12Vdc source all day long. 
 
 73 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 battery holder screws too short!

2012-06-07 Thread VK7JB
I found the same in the KX1 kit I've just finished - they were way too short
to do the job any which way I tried. I finished by replacing them with
longer steel fittings and hex nuts. It made me wonder whether the screws in
my kit were the wrong spec, or whether the profile of the plastic battery
holders had changed. Either way, I found a fix that works. Took me a while
before I would believe that the supplied screws just weren't going to do it! 
A lot of fiddling and futile attempts at grinding down the nubs on the
holders. 

73
John
VK7JB

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 battery holder screws too short!

2012-06-07 Thread VK7JB
Chuck, 

Yes - grinding down the nubs was a bad move. I didn't measure my screws, but
they were too short to even get one turn into the threaded hole. Like you, I
suspect they are just too short for the job.

To remove the paint from the case, I found the easiest way was to use a
Dremel tool with a fine wire brush. I've used that method before on other
projects requiring similar surgery. Makes For pretty quick work compared
with sanding. Another effective way is to use those long, industrial
strength emery boards that beauticians use for filing down women's acrylic
fingernails. They are long, flat and flexible and rip through paint and
lacquer coatings in a flash. They're also great for removing enamel coating
from toroid wire if you don't want to crank up the soldering iron to burn it
off. I use them a lot and a friend who is in the industry keeps me in
supply. 

73
John
VK7JB

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1: new build transmit problem on 20m ...

2012-06-05 Thread VK7JB
Hello Stan,

A very interesting observation.  I don't have a scope, but I'll re-work the
dummy load and receiver setup and see if that changes the raspy hum/buzz on
20m.  If it doesn't resolve, then I'll avail myself of Don's repair service,
as I won't have the expertise to troubleshoot this kind of problem myself.  

Thanks for your interest.

73,
John
VK7JB


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Re: [Elecraft] K2: audio thumps and pops on key closure - is K1 app note relevant?

2012-04-16 Thread VK7JB
Thanks Don.  This is a relatively new K2/100 # 6998 and the KPA100UPKT mod
has been incorporated, as far as I understand.

I'll try the resistor  cap mod to the drains of the mute  FETs on the K2
control board and see what happens.  

73,

John
VK7JB

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[Elecraft] K2: audio thumps and pops on key closure - is K1 app note relevant?

2012-04-14 Thread VK7JB
Hello Group,

I've been using my K2/100 on CW a bit lately and have noticed that there are
low frequency thumps/pops on the receive audio at the rx to tx transition -
ie onset of keying (key closure).  They are most noticable if the noise
floor is high or if there are other signals in the receiver passband.  If I
wind the RF gain right back or operate on a really quiet band and the
artefacts disappear.  

They don't relate to the DSP (they occur even when DSP is bypassed), to the
state of the 8R Hold parameter or to the presence or absence of transmitted
RF (the artefacts are present also in TEST mode).

I see there is mention of this issue in the K1 in an application note found
here:

http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/K1_qsk_app_note.htm

It describes what I hear in my K2.  Does anyone know if there is a similar
mod for the K2, or whether this K1 mod might be relevant to the K2 if
adapted?

Thanks for any ideas.

73,
John
VK7JB


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: PTT IN problem - cause found...Thanks from VK7JB

2012-04-13 Thread VK7JB
A note of thanks to everyone who offered me helpful advice and tips, on and
off-list.
Elecraft are sending me some replacement RFC1's and I feel a bit more
confident about replacing it after all of your sage advice.
This is a great group and I value your collective knowlege and generosity in
sharing it.

73,
John
VK7JB

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: PTT IN problem - cause found...Joe picked it...

2012-04-12 Thread VK7JB
Thanks Joe - you picked it in one!   No voltage on PTT IN.  RFC1 on the RF
board has failed open (9 M Ohm on my meter) and bypassing it restores the
PTT IN 5V line voltage and function, as you'd expect.

It's a surface mount component on the bottom of the RF board, for those who
might need to know in the future.

Next challenge is to replace it - I'm not very experience with SMC building,
but I'll give it a go.  Or, would there be any problem replacing it with a
standard RFC of the same value if I can configure it to fit?

73,

John
VK7B

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: PTT IN problem - cont'd...

2012-04-11 Thread VK7JB
Thanks Joe  Guy.  I've had a look at the schematic and that makes sense. 
I'll have a look for the 5V on the PTT IN connector and if it's missing,
I'll trace it back.  I'll take the K3 apart tonight and make a start.
If it turns out to be an open RFC, that'll be a simple fix.

Thinking back, I had an RFC go open on my K1 at one stage way back, for no
apparent reason. Took me a while to find it because at the time, I really
didn't think RFC's were that fragile and that thew me off.  Anyway, I learnt
a lesson.  Perhaps the same one here...  we'll see.

Thanks for the advice.

John
VK7JB

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[Elecraft] K3: rear panel PTT IN no longer working - pse help..

2012-04-11 Thread VK7JB
Hello Group,

I've been running K3 #5102 in SSB phone for about 1 year using a CM500
headset connected to the rear panel connectors.  For PTT Tx keying, I've
been using a handswitch connected to PTT IN on the rear panel. It's worked
fine.

I've been away and not used my K3 for a few weeks.  Turned it on tonight and
found that closing the handswitch connected to PTT IN no longer puts the rig
into transmit state.  Disconnected the hand switch and replaced it with
another RCA plug - shorted it and still no transmit state.  

The rig keys normally in SSB mode using the front panel XMIT button.

I can't find a menu parameter that would alter the function of the rear PTT
IN jack.

Any ideas what might have happened?

Nothing else in my hardware set up hs changed.

Thanks for any help or ideas...

73,
John
VK7JB

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Terminology

2012-04-11 Thread VK7JB
Pete,

I'm sorry to have offended your sensibilities.  I was simply after some
helpful, non-critical advice.

John
VK7JB

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[Elecraft] K3: PTT IN problem - cont'd...

2012-04-11 Thread VK7JB
Hello Again,

Well,  the PTT IN problem persists.

I can confirm that the K3 is not in TEST mode and that the VOX/PTT parameter
is definitely set to PTT.

I've taken the top of the rig and checked that all the rear panel hardware
is still connected and in place.

PTT on the front panel mic connector and the XMIT front panel button work
normally.  It's still only the rear panel PTT IN that's the problem.

Anywhere else I should look before I call support @ Elecraft?

Thanks to all who replied via pm with helpful suggestions,

john
VK7JB

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Re: [Elecraft] Problems with knobs

2011-12-23 Thread VK7JB
My K3 is serial #5102 purchased in January 2011.  My VFO B knob has just
cracked:  it's spontaneously developed ugly linear fissures across the face
of the knob.  The cracks begin nowhere near the screw hole.  There are two
cracks.  The rig has spent its life in an internal room with no UV exposure.  

I emailed Elecraft and the response was perfect, as usual:  a replacement
knob was in the mail less than a day after I'd made email contact with the
parts department.

This is the first/only report of a cracked VFO knob. 

Such things happen - that's the nature of matter and entropy.  What's
important to me is the great response from Elecraft.  That's why I buy from
them.  

Thanks Richard  Co.

John
VK7JB

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[Elecraft] K2/100: Do I have a ground loop??

2011-12-03 Thread VK7JB
Hi Group,

Any advice appreciated about this strange issue affecting my K2/100? -:

I recently started using my K2/100 with an external speaker.  It is an
unamplified, 4ohm speaker in an enclosure. I've noticed that on SSB, voice
peaks cause some breakthrough of distorted audio on the external speaker. 
It's unobtrusive, but I notice it.  It also occurs when I Tx into a dummy
load and is at the same level as when I Tx into my antenna - ie it doesn't
change.

Now here's the strange thing:  it's only present in the audio from the rear
external speaker jack.  If I plug headphones into the front panel headphone
jack, there is no breakthrough heard on that audio signal.  If I plug a set
of headphones or a different speaker into the rear panel external speaker
jack, I do hear the distorted audio signal on Tx in that audio path. 

My shack is clean with respect to common mode currents - I've checked every
cable with my clip on meter.
I suspect this is some kind of ground loop.  Could it be occuring internal
to the K2/100, somehow producing distortion in the external speaker audio
pathway, but not the front panel headphone audio path??  That bit, I don't
understand.

Any ideas?  Thanks as always!

John
VK7JB

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Re: [Elecraft] Clamp-on RF current meters - a question for Ian and others..

2011-11-07 Thread VK7JB
Hello Ian, Jim  group,

Thanks to everyone for your advice and thoughts on this matter.  It's led to
a very interesting weekend on a common mode clean up.

I'd always thought I'd had a clean shack from a stray RF/common mode
current perspective.  I'd had a few minor issues with RF getting into a
hi-fi speaker, but no other RF problems I'd ever noticed.  But after the
recent discussions, I got out my MFJ 854 clamp on meter and spent the
weekend sniffing out CMC in my setup.  The results were revealing.  

One rig had about 15-20mA of common mode current on the coax at the
connection with the rig, but hunting around, I found about 40mA on the AC
cable feeding the power supply connected to that rig.  There was no CMC on
the coax leading from the ATU attached to that rig to the DX engineering 1:1
balun what I use to transition to open wire line to feed my horizontal loop. 
10 turns of the power supply's AC cable through a 240-43 toroid removed all
detectable CMC from that set up.  

The second rig set up ( switchable to the same loop antenna but operating
from a different power supply) was more of a puzzle.  Here, all the coax
cables and inter-connections had no detectable CMC but  I found about 30mA
of current on the AC cabling supplying my Ameritron AL 811 amplifier.  This
has an itegrated linear power supply, which I plug into a power distribution
board.  This power board also has the powersupply running my 2nd rig plugged
in to it.  With the amp turned off,  but plugged in to the board, there was
35mA of CMC on its AC line and about 15mA on the rest of the AC cabling
supplying that rig.  If I unplugged the Amp from the distribution board, the
CMC fell to undetectable.  The fix was another large toroid wound around the
AC cord of the amp and I put one on the distribution board too. It seemed
that the choke on the amplifier AC cord was what did the trick.

None of my audio or DC power supply cables had any CMC detectable.  But
clearly, CMC was present on the AC power cabling supplying the power
supplies.  As predicted, simplw clip on ferrites were useless.  To reduce
the measured CMC to undetectable, I needed 8-10 turns of the cabling through
a large diameter 43 mix toroid.

I'm still not sure why the amplifier cable was so important in carrying CMC
into my set up, but it was.  

This has been a very interesting exercise.  Thanks to all for your comments
on and off the list.

73,
John
VK7JB




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Re: [Elecraft] Clamp-on RF current meters - a question for Ian and others..

2011-11-07 Thread VK7JB
Hello Ian, Jim  group,

Thanks to everyone for your advice and thoughts on this matter.  It's led to
a very interesting weekend on a common mode clean up.

I'd always thought I'd had a clean shack from a stray RF/common mode
current perspective.  I'd had a few minor issues with RF getting into a
hi-fi speaker, but no other RF problems I'd ever noticed.  But after the
recent discussions, I got out my MFJ 854 clamp on meter and spent the
weekend sniffing out CMC in my setup.  The results were revealing.  

One rig had about 15-20mA of common mode current on the coax at the
connection with the rig, but hunting around, I found about 40mA on the AC
cable feeding the power supply connected to that rig.  There was no CMC on
the coax leading from the ATU attached to that rig to the DX engineering 1:1
balun what I use to transition to open wire line to feed my horizontal loop. 
10 turns of the power supply's AC cable through a 240-43 toroid removed all
detectable CMC from that set up.  

The second rig set up ( switchable to the same loop antenna but operating
from a different power supply) was more of a puzzle.  Here, all the coax
cables and inter-connections had no detectable CMC but  I found about 30mA
of current on the AC cabling supplying my Ameritron AL 811 amplifier.  This
has an itegrated linear power supply, which I plug into a power distribution
board.  This power board also has the powersupply running my 2nd rig plugged
in to it.  With the amp turned off,  but plugged in to the board, there was
35mA of CMC on its AC line and about 15mA on the rest of the AC cabling
supplying that rig.  If I unplugged the Amp from the distribution board, the
CMC fell to undetectable.  The fix was another large toroid wound around the
AC cord of the amp and I put one on the distribution board too. It seemed
that the choke on the amplifier AC cord was what did the trick.

None of my audio or DC power supply cables had any CMC detectable.  But
clearly, CMC was present on the AC power cabling supplying the power
supplies.  As predicted, simplw clip on ferrites were useless.  To reduce
the measured CMC to undetectable, I needed 8-10 turns of the cabling through
a large diameter 43 mix toroid.

I'm still not sure why the amplifier cable was so important in carrying CMC
into my set up, but it was.  

This has been a very interesting exercise.  Thanks to all for your comments
on and off the list.

73,
John
VK7JB




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[Elecraft] Clamp-on RF current meters - a question for Ian and others..

2011-11-03 Thread VK7JB
Hi All,

I've been reading the discussions about RF and common mode current and using
a clamp-on RF current meter to sniff out common mode current in the shack. 
I've checked the calibration of my MFJ 854 and am surprised that it's
calibrated quite well:  I measure 1A of current measured running 50W into a
50ohm dummy load.

So, here's my question:  how much common mode current is considered
acceptable?  This meter measures down to a few milliamps.  Is it an
impossible/futile goal to try to eliminate any stray CMC completely?  When
should you call it quits and accept what you find?

Just curious, because the only CMC I can measure in my shack is about 10mA
measured at the coax connector on the back of one of my rigs while tuning up
with 10W output.  

Interesting discussion, because I'd never thought of quantifying CMC before.

73,
John
VK7JB


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Re: [Elecraft] 12m SWR issues

2011-10-05 Thread VK7JB
Hi Mike,

Do you have the KAT3 installed?  If so, the fix may be simple: take the
ATU out of bypass mode and tune the ATU into the dummy load once on each
band.  You might then find that with the ATU bypassed, the SWR shown on the
K3 meter reads 1.0 as you'd expect.

I noticed the same on 10  12m some time ago on my new K3.  I learnt that
the ATU is not physically removed from the circuit in bypass mode, but small
values of L  C are inserted to electrically / functionally bypass it. 
Stray reactances can cause these small SWR anomolies on the higher bands,
seen when transmitting into a dummy load with the ATU bypassed.  It seemed
to me that the ATU can compensate for these reactances if it's tuned once
into a 50ohm dummy load on the band of interest - that seems to allow the K3
set the bypass state correctly, compensating for the small strays.

At least, it worked for me and a couple of others who'd noticed the same
thing and who found this worked for them. I received a few pm's about this
after I posted about this to the group some while ago - I guess it will
still be in the archive.

Hope that helps,

73,
John
VK7JB

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[Elecraft] [K3] Memory text labels...

2011-10-03 Thread VK7JB
Hi Group,

I'm just now programming the memories of my K3.  I'm using the K3 Frequency
Memory Editor application to simplify this.

I've added text labels to the memory allocations and I can see that these
are supposed to be shown in VFOB position on the LCD when the memory is
recalled.  Well, they are and I can see them, but for literally a
microsecond - far too short a period to be able to read them.  Is there any
way of prolonging the text label duration on the LCD so they can be read, or
am I doing something  wrong?  I can store and recall memories without a
problem - it's just reading the text label that has me baffled.

Thanks!

John
VK7JB

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Memory text labels...

2011-10-03 Thread VK7JB
Hi Don,

Well, I've just been allocating frequencies to the Per-band quick memories
which I've set up using M1/M2/M3/M4 keys.  I tap MV, then M1-M4 to recall
the frequency allocated to that key on a per-band basis.  The text flashes
for an unreadable instant in the VFO B area and then is gone.

When I allocate text to the general purpose memory slots (00-99) and use the
VFO A to select them, the text labels do show as you describe - I just did
that and checked.  But if I use the M1-M4 keys, or the quick memories
00-09 using the two switch tap short cut, then the text labels don't show. 
I seems that when you use these switch tap memory allocations, the labels
might not show, but that seemed strange to me since you are able to allocate
text labels for those positions in the K3 Frequency Memory Editor
application.

Curious, but perhaps that's just the way it is?

73,
John
VK7JB


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] - Data mode TX problem from VK7JB - solved!

2011-09-14 Thread VK7JB
Hi All,

Thanks for your suggestions and for the interesting discussion.  To close
the loop, here's some information about the solution, which I discovered by
accident:

More careful sleuthing showed that the issue was in the computer audio chain
(as I suspected) and not with the K3.  The artefact was present on the
soundcard audio output.   I tried another, older, laptop running XP, and
with the same USB Soundcard dongle connected and all other parameters
unchanged, and this time the problem was absent.  

I then went back to the original laptop (running Win 7) and ran the latency
checker application.  All green bars, which didn't help me much.  I'm not
sure why, but I then decided to disable the computer's internal sound card
through device manager.  I had muted the mic input of the internal sound
card earlier, but hadn't disabled it.  Anyway, after that, the problem is
fixed.  

So, using the USB soundcard dongle with the internal soundcard disabled, the
pops and clicks are gone.
I should explain that I need to use the dongle because this computer's own
soundcard has no line or mic in jack - it has an inbuilt mic, but no way of
routing an external audio source to the internal soundcard. 

Thanks again to everyone for your suggestions, on and off the list.

73,

John
VK7JB

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[Elecraft] [K3] - Data mode TX problem from VK7JB

2011-09-13 Thread VK7JB
Hi All,

I've just started using my K3 for data modes and have discovered a problem: 
prominent, irregular and  short duration clicking/popping heard the
monitored TX audio of the K3, also audible in the transmitted signal when I
listen to my signal on another receiver. There is no clicking artefact on
received signals, only on my transmitted signal.

Here's my set up:
I'm using direct connection from K3 to my laptop.  No interface, but I have
a soundcard in a USB dongle, which I need to connect the audio in and out to
my computer.
I have Data mode A enabled and ALC set to 4 bars solid with the 5th
flickering. Power output is set to 40W. Monitored IMD is good (-29 to-30)
using KK7UQ device for off-air monitoring - the signal is otherwise clean.

I have checked and can confirm that the clicking/popping is independent of: 
Line in Gain/soundcard audio drive settings; data mode used
(PSK31/RTTY/Olivia - all are affected); digimode software application used
(same with Fldigi, Airlink Express, digipan and HRD) and finally, I have USB
soundcard dongles of 2 different manufacturers and the problem is present
using both.

Any ideas or advice gratefully received.  I'd like to get rid of this TX
clicking!

73 and thanks in advance,

John
VK7JB

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[Elecraft] K1/KX1 connection with small amplifiers...ideas?

2011-07-26 Thread VK7JB
Hi All,

I have a K1 and also a cute, but rugged, little Tokyo HP-45b amp, which puts
out about 45W and I take it camping.  I've been thinking of pairing the two. 
The THP amp doesn't have RF sensing for switching.  Can anyone point me in
the direction of a simple way to key the amp with a K1 / KX1?  Are there amp
keying buffer circuits you can make up and use with the K1/KX1?

Perhaps someone out there has done this successfully already.  I can't find
much in the archives, so perhaps others have worked out that it's not worth
the fuss?! :)

Thanks!

John
VK7JB
K1 #2822, K2/100 #6998, #K3 5102

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Re: [Elecraft] HFp portable vertical antenna

2011-07-06 Thread VK7JB
I enjoyed your video very much Stan.  Thanks for posting it.  It's great to
see the little K1 in action and working DX with 5W.  I use a Buddistick
antenna with quite some success.  Like you, I prefer the simplicity of a
simple wire over a tree for portable work, but I enjoy working from desert
country, where there aren't many trees, so for  little expeditions into
nowhere, these verticals have an especially useful position in my antenna
wardrobe.  I hadn't heard of the HFp, but I'll give it a look now.

Incidentally, although these short verticals with a couple of radials model
as being quite inefficient, I've found they do work well in practice.  From
VK7, I've worked a station in the UK on SSB phone - I was running only 5W
into my Buddistick we had a chat for over 30 minutes on 20m.   I've also
worked a paedestrian mobile station in the UK  - I  was running 40W into the
Buddistick with a single radial.  The amazing thing was that the paedestrian
mobile station was running 500mW, all on SSB phone!  

That taught me to treat gloomy predications about compromised or
inefficient antennas with a grain of salt.  It all depends on propagation.  

Great video.  Thanks Stan,

73,
John
VK7JB

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[Elecraft] K3: SWR meter readings on 10m...

2011-06-27 Thread VK7JB
Hello All,

I've just noticed that the SWR meter on my K3 is reading higher than
expected on 10m.

I have 2 different 50 ohm dummy loads. Both have 1.1:1 as measured by my
external LP-100A meter and  my MFJ 259b AA.  

If I connect either dummy load directly into the ANT1 connector of the K3
(no connector lead at all or a very short lead between the DL and the K3
ANT1) and read SWR on 10m, it is measured by the K3 as 1.5:1.   On 15m, SWR
reads 1.4:1 but on 20m and lower bands, the SWR displayed by the K3 accords
with the LP-100A external meter (1.1:1).

Is this frequency-related phenomenon common to all K3's, or just mine?  Is
any adjustment possible or am I sweating over nothing.  Perhaps this SWR
difference is within spec @ 28MHz??


73,

John
VK7JB

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: SWR meter readings on 10m..mystery solved...

2011-06-27 Thread VK7JB
I've solved my mystery.

I read in the archives that the KAT3 ATU is not completely out of circuit in
bypass mode.  If I understand correctly, small values of L and C are used
to remove it functionally, but there is stray reactance that might
contribute to the higher indicated SWR on some bands.

So then I wondered if the KAT3 might need to be tuned at least once into a
50 ohm load for the bypass state to be correctly determined.  Made sense
in my imagination, and thinking on it,  I realised I'd never tuned the ATU
into a 50 ohm load before.

So I did that - tuned the KAT3 to the dummy load on the bands where it
previously indicated higher than expected in ATU bypass mode.  I let it do
its stuff and find a match for the dummy load, then bypassed the ATU.  

Now, in ATU Bypass mode, the K3 reads 1.0:1 SWR into the same dummy load
that it previously showed as 1.5:1.   Issue gone.

73,
John
VK7JB



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Net in VK

2011-06-21 Thread VK7JB
Great idea.  I'd like to take part.  Anyone who can hear

John
VK7JB

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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 - Hi Curr and loss of power control - help! de VK7JB

2011-06-18 Thread VK7JB
Hi David,

What a great idea.  I wish I'd thought of that before I did my repair.  I've
put your idea in my notebook and if/when this happens again, I'll install
your solution.  I do worry about the longevity of the PCB holes and traces
should this repair become an ongoing maintenance issue (hopefully not!).

Were you able to work out what zapped your diodes?

Can you buy single milled IC sockets, or did you cut up a strip to get them?

Thanks again for a great idea.

73,
John
VK7JB







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[Elecraft] K2/100 - Hi Curr and loss of power control - help! de VK7JB

2011-06-17 Thread VK7JB
Hi Group,

Using my K2/100 #6998 on 20m SSB phone today, running it into an
experimental small loop antenna.  SWR was 1.5:1.   Then:  

Hi Curr warning on LCD - shows continuously in TX.
Maximum power out (100W) independent of power control setting
LED Bargraph stopped displaying RF output (ie no bars lit) despite  100W
output measured on external power meter.

Disconnected antenna and attached dummy load - same symptoms.

Could I have somehow fried D16  D17 in the KPA100?  I checked these diodes
in-circuit with my multimeter diode test function and there is no voltage
drop across either.  Does this mean they've both failed open?

Is there anything else I should check/look for/measure before I dismantle
the KPA100 and replace D16 and 17?

Any advice appreciated as always,

73,
John
VK7JB




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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 - Hi Curr and loss of power control - help! de VK7JB

2011-06-17 Thread VK7JB
Hi Gary,

It's my K2, not my K3, that's in trouble.  Mercifully, my K3 is playing very
happily!

73,

John

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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 - Hi Curr and loss of power control - help! de VK7JB

2011-06-17 Thread VK7JB
Thanks Don  Mark,

That's what I suspected, but I wondered about U5  6 too, whether they may
may have been stung  further down the schematic.  I'll replace the diodes
tomorrow when it's light.  I have a small supply of 1N5711's here in my junk
box.  Then it'll be clear if there's more than just the diodes that've
turned to toast. 

Mark, looking at the dismantling involved to get to the fiddly location of
D16 and 17, I think it'll be just as easy to replace the diodes and be done
with it.  Lifting one end to check would be a good idea though, if they were
in a less awkward location.  

This is an interesting failure.  I wonder if the high voltage you'd expect
on the capacitor of this small loop antenna might have caused this
diode-frying??  I did disconnect the coax from the back of the loop tuner
(de-energised of course) at one stage to connect my antenna analyser to
retune it to another band.  The problem manifest after reconnecting the coax
to the K2.  The SWR was low throughout, but I guess that's not related to
high charge on the variable cap, which would be several kV.I won't be
using the K2 on this loop antenna again, just in case.  Pity, because it's
great to get a 57 reports working into Austria and Russia and 59 into
Florida, running 50W into a diminutive 1m diameter loop sitting on my picnic
table :)

I'll report on the patient after the surgery...




73,
John
VK7JB



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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 - Hi Curr and loss of power control - help! de VK7JB

2011-06-17 Thread VK7JB
Hi All,

I replaced D16 and D17 on the KPA100  board and all is back to normal.  

I'm still stumped how I managed to cook them.

Just in case I ever have to do this repair again, I mounted the diodes on
the underside of the board.  There's plenty of clearance.  When mounted on
top of the board, they're tucked away in a tricky to access spot and I found
removing the old diodes the most difficult part of the repair.  Next time
it'll be easier to get at them and to pull them out from underneath.

73,

John
VK7JB

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[Elecraft] K3 8 pin mic wiring to avoid pin 1 problems...how best to...??

2011-06-02 Thread VK7JB
Hello Group,

I'm rewiring an 8 pin mic connector FROM an Icom configuration TO a  K3
pinout.

Wiring the Mic + and PTT lines is straight forward.  But how best to wire
the PTT GND,  Mic - and Cable shield connections is bothering me. 

I'd like to wire the Mic - and cable shield  to avoid the risk of pin 1
problems and RFI etc, but if I interpret  the schematic and mic pinout info
for the K3 correctly,  front panel mic pins 7  8 are wired in common with
the chassis.   

So, am I correct in understanding that on the K3, there's no way of
seprating Mic-, PTT GND and cable shield/chassis - ie they're all bonded in
common?

If this is correct, should I simply  wire PTT GND to pin 7 and  Mic- and
cable shield to pin 8.  (But they are all connected together in the rig).

In other words,  is this wiring pinout  the most appropriate?

Pin 1  Mic +
Pin 2  PTT
Pin 7  PTT GND
Pin 8  Mic - and cable shield.
(pin 7 and 8 being bonded internally anyway)

Thanks for any clarification.  It's possible I'm over-thinking this! :)

73,
John
VK7JB







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[Elecraft] K3: Calibrate RF gain with K3 utility - error messages - help.

2011-05-30 Thread VK7JB
Hi all,

I'm hoping someone has come across this problem and can help out.

I recently got an XG3, so thought I would run the Calibrate RF gain utility
in K3 Utility.

I'm running the latest K3 firmware and the most recent update of the K3
utility:  1.4.4.25

K3 and computer are communicating fine and Calibrate Tx gain routine in K3
Utility runs fine.

Tried to run the Calibrate RF gain routine and I get the following error in
the K3 utility window
No reponse to DSP command  and the calibration progresses no further.
On the K3 LCD there is this error message:  E 040FA6.   ERR DSE

I've checked and all the setup parameters for the Calibrate RF gain routine
are set correctly according the the on-screen prompts.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks for any advice,

John
VK7JB

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[Elecraft] K3 s-meter calibration parameters and flickering S1...

2011-05-30 Thread VK7JB
Hello again,

Update to my last post:  I turned everything off, went and had a cup of
coffee, came back and tried the RF gain calibration routine again with K3
Utility - worked just fine this time.  So, not sure why those errors.  I had
turned everything off and re-booted the K3,  restarted the utility etc in
previous attempts, with no effect.  Must've been the cup of coffee :)

So now on to another question:

After the RF calibration, I re-did the S-meter calibration using the XG3,
with the K3 in ABS mode, PRE OFF.
SMTR OF = 21,  SMTR SC = 14.
With these parameters, the scale is very linear and pretty much spot on:  S9
@ -73dBm, S2-3 @ -107dBm,  S9+40 @ -33dBm

BUT, when I disconnect the XG3, so nothing is connected to ANT1, the S1 bar
flickers on and off.

I can't  stop this flickering S1 without readjusting the parameters and
throwing out the rest of the calibration.

The S1 does turn off if I narrow the bandwidth to less than 1.5khz.  I've
been doing the calibration in CW mode but with bw set at 2.8khz.

Is this flickering S1 with no antenna connected normal/expected? 
Intuitively, I feel that no input should give no bars, but perhaps that
simplistic.

73,

John
VK7JB 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 s-meter calibration parameters and flickering S1...

2011-05-30 Thread VK7JB
Thanks Lyle and David.  Sounds all's configured OK then.   I'll get back to
playing with my K3.

73,
John
VK7JB

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Re: [Elecraft] K3. RX too sensitive for me - S-meter/RFgain/absolute mode...

2011-05-18 Thread VK7JB
If one has chosen absolute s-meter performance which is already 
un-analog, it would be nice to see the input level regardless of the 
RF gain setting, and perhaps just slow plink only the top segment 
that would be covered with the analog convention. 


Exactly my view, Guy.  Absolute on the K3 is only partly Absolute.
My point is that other designers have implemented true absolute S-meter
function and it works well.  On my TT Eagle 599, I can ride the RF gain,
play with ATT and PRE to my heart's content and still see the input level on
the s-meter, uninfluenced by my fiddling.

I'm looking forward to being able to do the same in absolute mode on my K3
one day.

73,
John
VK7JB

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Re: [Elecraft] K3. RX too sensitive for me - S-meter/RFgain/absolute mode...

2011-05-18 Thread VK7JB
Well, from one perspective this is, of course true.  But this arguement leads
to the question, why is an s-meter implemented at all on the K3 then?  If it
doesn't really mean anything, why have it?

I'm more interested in exploring other questions.  Having decided it is of
value to implement an s-meter on a rig, what are the different ways in which
it can enunciate that which is being measured.  How can that be manipulated
to best suit the operator? 

Interesting discussion.

John
VK7JB


What you see on the meter 
doesn't really mean anything, and the resolution on the scale isn't very 
high anyway. 


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 - Can someone quantify faint wiper noise from VFO pot?

2011-05-17 Thread VK7JB
Hello Stan,

This is an interesting observation.   For reasons I'll not elaborate on here
:), I ended up with two front panels for my K1,  serial #2822.  Both panels
were bought from Elecraft within a few weeks of one another.  Both have the
same brand VFO pot with same ID markings, so I believe they are identical
parts with the same nominal specs.   However, each has a very different
feel.  One is very smooth indeed - I can't feel the wire effect or hear
any noise as I move the wiper. It's smooth and creamy.  The second is like
yours - it has a definite wire feel to it and I can easily hear it when I
move the wiper.  The wire effect pot is  the one that ended up being wired
into my K1.  I intend to swap it over for the smooth and creamy one, which
is currently sitting in the cupboard attached to the unused FP board.

So, I figure there are significant differences between individual instances
of this pot.  Perhaps I have two at opposite ends of the spectrum.  I know
which I prefer.

73,
John
VK7JB
K1 #2822, K2/100 #6998,  K3/100 # 7102


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Re: [Elecraft] K3. RX too sensitive for me - S-meter/RFgain/absolute mode...

2011-05-17 Thread VK7JB
Helpful comments, Jim.
I ride the RF gain control on the K3 to very good effect.  The only problem,
as you point out, is that the S-meter won't read signal strength at the
antenna with the RF gain wound back.  I have my K3 s-meter set in absolute
mode, so using ATT or PRE does not influence the s-meter reading, but using
RF gain does.

On my TenTec Eagle, the S-meter reads independently of ATT, PRE AND RF gain
control.  I find this very helpful, given that rely on the RF gain control
adjustment to give me comfortable listening.  I can then look at the s-meter
and give a meaningful report without having to wind up the RF gain.

Is there a way of implementing this on the K3?  Is there any reason why this
hasn't been implemented in absolute mode?  Would be great if it could be.

73,
John
VK7JB

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 - Can someone quantify faint wiper noise from VFO pot?

2011-05-17 Thread VK7JB
FWIW, both my K1 pots are Bourns, 3540S-1-104L.
They have a blue body, which may be thin alloy or plastic, I'm not sure.
One is smooth and creamy, the other wire feel, though they're both
identical in markings and appearance.  So, they're not all identical in
tactile experience.  :)

73
John
VK7JB

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 build time?

2011-05-05 Thread VK7JB
Hi Tom,

I'm a slow and methodical constructor and the KSB2 took me 8 hours to build,
over 4 nights.  

What took a bit of time for me was the BFO alignment to optimise  TX audio,
configuring the filters etc.  I found Spectrogram very helpful.  I did a lot
of  monitoring and recording to get the TX audio the way I like it. Because
this was  my first experience doing this sort of alignment, it took me maybe
4 hours all up until I was happy.  It would take very little time the second
time round or for someone experienced.

There are some good tips in the archives about set up of the K2 after
installing the KSB2.

I must say that I have several rigs and too many microphones and headsets
and I do use outboard audio equalisation on some of them.  I also have a K3
with its on-board 8 band EQ.  BUT - the rig  that attracts the most
unsolicited positive comments about TX audio is the little K2/100.  People
comment great audio - what are you running?!  And it's my K2 with the MH2
hand mic.  I rarely hear that using my other set-ups and so I wonder why I
bother with all the other audio paraphernalia.

Enjoy building.

John
VK7JB

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[Elecraft] K3 #5102 is up and running in Tasmania...

2011-02-16 Thread VK7JB

Hi All,

K3/100 #5102 is now sitting on my desk and playing well.  The kit went
together like a dream and the firmware updating with the K3 Utility and the
various calibration steps were a breeze.  A lot of enthusiastic advice from
list members helped me chose my options and I couldn't be happier with the
way my K3 is configured.  Thank you especially to whoever it was (I can't
recall) who advised me to figure the KXV3 into the initial build, rather
than wait and add it later.  I now see why.  

Another fun Elecraft build.  I'm looking to try for the Elecraft CC for fun,
so if you hear me around, please give me a shout.

I'm off to play..and to read the manual...

73,

John
VK7JB


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 People

2011-01-14 Thread VK7JB

Hi Joe,

I'd like to second your sentiments and thank all the folks that contribute
to bringing the Elecraft experience to my door.

I've built a K1, K2, many mini-modules and am about to put together a K3. 
I've had a ball.  None of it would have been possible without the care and
attention given to the packing and assembling, shipping and support by all
the folks at Elecraft whom we never get to know beyond their names on the
slips of paper in all those little packets or at the bottom of invoices and
shipping lists. 

Thanks to you all from me, down here.

John
VK7JB
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: options to buy: a summary of what I learnt from you all...

2011-01-07 Thread VK7JB

Hello All,

A couple of people have asked me to post a summary to share what I learnt
from my question about options for a new K3.  I received 25 replies, many
were off-list emails, offering well considered ideas and advice.  I was 
surprised at how generously people offered their time and their thoughts on
this question, often sharing considerable detail about their own experience
of loading their K3.

People tailored their responses to my situation - I'm a casual operator of
CW/SSB/data modes, working in a location where I rarely, if ever, have to
contend with crowded bands and heavy QRM.  

So bearing that in mind, here's what I learned:

# Unanimously, folks suggested I NOT bother with the high stability
reference oscillator.

#The auto ATU option was thought a good investment - for various reasons.

# There was strong support for the Digital Voice Recorder option and for
putting in the KXV3A option during the initial build, to avoid significant
dis-assembly of the K3 when/if I want to add on the P3 panadapter in the
future.  Several folks mentioned how useful they'd found their DVR,
especially as a voice saver calling CQ.

# About filters options:
There was a concensus of opinion that the 2.8 8 pole / 2.7 5 pole swap
wouldn't be of benefit in my situation and that I should just go with the
2.7 / 5 pole stock filter.  Several people suggested I should invest in the
6khz filter to allow AM TX and broadcast band RX and ESSB.  A couple of
people volunteered they had installed the 15khz FM filter, but rarely used
it and thought I could do without that option.  Many people commented on the
effectiveness of the DSP filtering in the K3 and suggested that for the
casual CW I do, that would be enough.  Several others suggested I go with a
400 or 500hz filter, but that I could wait and add them later if I found I
needed them.  I got the feeling that the narrower 2.1/1.8 khz filters for
SSB weren't seen to be a big priority in my situation:  only a couple of
folks mentioned them in passing and only one K3 owner said he found them
very useful for everyday SSB.  

All this seemed like very sensible advice to me.

So what am I going to do?

Well,  I've decided to NOT take the TCXO high stability ref oscillator.  I
WILL install the DVR and General coverage BPF options.  

I've decided NOT to put in the KXV3A until I'm ready to get the panadapter. 
I don't mind dismantling the K3 when that day arrives and I'd like to invest
that money in other features initially.  Having the KXV3A in the K3 from the
beginning won't give me any more immediate enjoyment of the K3, nor any
extra bits to play with, so I've decided it will wait.

As for the filters:

I've decided that I probably WILL do the 2.8 for 2.7 swap and install 8 pole
filters from the beginning.  One K3 owner pointed out that if I do that, I
won't have to swap out, or worry about matching, the 5 pole filters in the
future if/when I come to install the subreceiver.  That seemed sensible to
me, so I'll put in the 8 pole Inrad filters from the beginning and be done
with it.  The only additional filter I'll order initially is the 6khz, 8
pole, to allow better SW broadcast reception and to allow me to experiement
with wider-bandwidth SSB Tx.  I'll see,  over time, whether or not I need a
400hz filter for CW.

So that's it.  Thanks again everyone.  I just have to sell a rig here to
generate some extra funds, then I'll plant my paw on the Add to Cart
button and the deal will be done.

73,

John
VK7JB






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[Elecraft] K3: advice about options to buy?

2011-01-05 Thread VK7JB

Hello group,

My mouse is hovering over the Add to Cart button for a K3/100 modular kit. 
I'd really value some candid advice about options before I commit.  

My situation:  I'm a casual operator, data modes, SSB and CW.  I rarely need
to contend with crowded bands and don't currently work contests.  I built a
K2/100 which I love.  I intend to get the General Coverage BPF module and
the KAT3.

My question:  Given my situation, would I benefit from the extra investment
in the KTCX03-1 high stability reference oscillator and/or the 2.8-2.7
filter swap option?   

About filters:  which would you recommend I buy, given my casual-mode
operation? I anticipate working more CW and less phone as I become more
proficient in CW.

Thanks in advance for any advice.  I have had a look through the archives:
there's a lot of info but I'm still uncertain.

John
VK7JB
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: advice about options to buy?

2011-01-05 Thread VK7JB

A short post to  thank everyone for all the great help with thinking through
my K3 options.  I received a lot of very clear advice, both on and off the
reflector,  and I feel much better placed now to make a decision.  Thank
you, everyone, for your  interest and for generously sharing your knowledge. 
I look forward to a having K3 contact with some of you - perhaps very soon. 
73,  John VK7JB


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Re: [Elecraft] Plasma TV Noise any ideas on how to filter it out.

2010-11-26 Thread VK7JB

Well, 80% of my operating time is spent in what seems like electromagnetic
hell.  The irony is that I live in a rural area at the end of the earth.  I
have only 3 neighbours within a 4km radius.  One of them has a plasma screen
TV.  Another has something else, perhaps an arcing thermostat or fluoro
light, which adds to the cacophony which dances across the whole of my
operating spectrum, from 80 to 10m.  The din varies in intensity and
duration. Sometimes it's not there and then, for a brief time, I enjoy the
silence.  

I was about to abandon the hobby,  but some reading led me to the noise
cancellers.  I had learnt very early on that noise blankers and DSP were
feeble weapons against the particular noise mix at my QTH.   So I first
bought the MJF 1026 because I could get it locally and it was inexpensive. 
I experiemented with many different noise antennas.  It was OK, but very
inconsistent in its effect.  On a good day, it reduced the racket, but the
nulls were elusive and the time I spent using it merely amplified my
frustrations.  I took it apart one day and was shocked.  I boxed it up, put
it in a cupboard and ordered an ANC-4.My hopes weren't high, but the
future of my ham radio career depended on finding a solution.  So the ANC-4
arrived from across the Pacific- sturdily designed, heavy, and well crafted
inside and out.  I pluged it in, attached the noise antenna, turned it on
and for the first time, killed the noise.  On all bands, quickly and without
frustration.  S7 din, obliterating everything, consistently and predictably
reduced to hush.

This one piece of equipment has saved the hobby for me.  At my location and
with my particular noise blend, it has worked a treat and much, much more
effectively than the first noise canceller I tried.   Others have reported
exactly the converse experience - neither unit having any effect, or the MFJ
unit giving superior results.  For all the science involved, noise busting
with this equipment is inexact and unpredictable.  

Of course, I'd rather not have to use this black box at all.   It  reduces
received signal strength noticably, but then the alternative is
buzzz covering everything.  And yes, I'm sure it's degrading my
IMD and threatening the purity of any number of other parameters of my
transmitted signal.  But again, the option is nothing at all.   This
afternoon, I just put the 94th country in my log:  all were caught on SSB
phone, with 100 Watts and a wire antenna sitting here under my blanket of
noise.   I enjoy this hobby far too much to let it go.

Borrow an ANC-4 and see what it'll do for you.  If it doesn't work, then try
the MFJ 1026.   Just don't give up.

73,

John
VK7JB



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[Elecraft] [K2] W3FPR Fixed audio out - installation options or ideas?

2010-11-20 Thread VK7JB

Hi all,

Just curious to know if it's possible to install the W3FPR Fixed Audio out
board external to the K2?
I've made up Don's circuit on a small piece of perf board, but for various
reasons related to the way I've built it, the board's not going to fit
comfortably between the front panel and control boards on the K2.

Is it possible to somehow take the audio to an RCA/other  jack on the back
of the K2 and then mount the circuit board externally in a small box, to
which I'd then connect my Signalink unit audio input?  Anyone done this? 
Any other ideas for implementing the fixed audio out?

Thanks again,

John
VK7JB
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] ALC and power control on 40m SSB in K2/100

2010-11-11 Thread VK7JB

Hello Group,

Just to complete the loop and to say thanks to Don, Steve and others who
contributed to this discussion.

I've applied the mod to the KSB2 board - 1k0 resistor in series with the
base of Q1 and changing the value of R9.  The ALC's can now control the
output power of my K2 on 80/40/30m on SSB.

I'm very happy.  Thanks to everyone for your advice.

73,

John
VK7JB
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[Elecraft] [K2] ALC and power control on 40m SSB in K2/100

2010-11-08 Thread VK7JB

Hello again folks,

Sorry about the barrage of posts from me. Just playing with my K2/100 #6998.

I've noticed that when operating in SSB  on 40m, requesting any power 15-20
W and up will always give me 100W+ output, measured into a dummy load. 
Voice peaks are higher and result in Hi Curr warnings occasionally.  I can
reduce the power above this threshold only by changing SSBC to 1:1 (normally
run at 2:1 with my MH-2 mic) and winding the power out back to just on 11 W.

CW and TUNE modes - all OK:  power requested and power output track very
well on all bands, including 40m.

Bands above 40m on SSB are not affected -  I mostly work 20m SSB and haven't
noticed the power tracking issue there.  ALC seems to control the power out
well there.

I suspect the Tx chain gain on 40m is too high for the ALC to manage when in
SSB.  

Is there any way of making the ALC more aggressive on 40m SSB, without
affecting the other bands too much?  I remember seeing a previous post about
this somewhere but haven't been able to find the details again.

Any suggestions?

73,

John
VK7JB
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[Elecraft] [k2] K2/100 power out on 10m R98 -fixed...

2010-11-06 Thread VK7JB

Thanks Don,

I did restore R98 to its original 270 ohms (from 1k0) and power output on
10m SSB is back to a full 100W+

The ALC dithering is noticeable, but I'm not going to fiddle any more. 
Might see if i can just live with it and if not, I'll experiment some more
to find a lower value of R98 that damps the loop without reducing my SSB
power output too much. I'm not driving an amp with my K2, so it's really not
of much practical importance to me - it just jars with my obsessive
personality :)

What surprised me is that I could still get 90+ W out in TUNE and CW on 10m
with the 1k0 resistor at R98 - only power on SSB was reduced significantly
(to 30W PEP).  In the Elecraft document that describes the R98 mod, they
advise checking for the 10m power reduction in TUNE mode, which I did and
then I checked it again by keying the rig in CW.  Didn't think also to also
check power out in SSB before accepting the 1k0 resistor value.  I should
have thought to do that, but didn't expect it would be reduced so
disproportionately.

73,
John
VK7JB


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[Elecraft] [K2] Aligning my K2/100 - things I learnt...

2010-11-05 Thread VK7JB

Thanks to everyone for your tips.  I had a lot of helpful advice, on and off
the reflector, and all is sorted out and understood now.  

FWIW, I re-calibrated the 4MHz reference oscillator using the N6KR method
and my frequency display is now only 10hz off WWV.  I'm very happy with
that.  This is about the 3rd or 4th pass using this method. On the final
pass,  I noticed 2 things about my K2 and taking them into account helped
reduce the error:   firstly, the spot tone of my K2, set for 600hz, is
actually 610hz, not 600hz.   Secondly, when entering CAL FCTR mode after
zero beating WWV on sideband,  the beat tone drops  10hz.  I found reference
to this in another posting, but somehow missed it the first few times
around.  It's easy to account for once you notice it.  There is some drift
(+/-40hz or so) as the K2/100 heats up after long overs @100W, but that is
easily compensated for while I'm operating, now that I know how (thanks
Tom!).

The sideband filters  are now well tuned and the audio reports are good - no
longer muffled.  Adjusting OP1 was easy in the end.  I found that very
small changes in frequency, just 25-50hz, make a  big difference to the
sound of the transmitted audio. I had to listen carefully and experiment to
get the audio profile I wanted.  Adjusting the OP1 SSB filter for optimum
transmit audio made the received audio a little sharp for my taste, so I
did as has been suggested elsewhere and set FL2 to OP1 and adjusted the
audio passband of that filter to accentuate the lows and reduce some of the
highs.  I keep FL2 in on receive and now I have great audio on both RX and
TX.

Thanks again for everyones' input.  I would never have completed this
project without the support and collective know-how of this group.  The
K2/100 is sitting on my dest here, but I still can't really believe I've
done it.

73,

John
VK7JB

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[Elecraft] [K2] K2/100 power out on 10m SSB...

2010-11-05 Thread VK7JB

Just noticed that power out on 10m (28490) CW and in TUNE mode is 85W, but
maximum PEP on SSB is 30W.

All other bands, I get 100W out in CW/TUNE  SSB.  I'm checking this by
running K2/100  into a 50 ohm dummy load.  Wattmeters are a WavenodeWN-2 and
Autek WM1. Same  PO PEP recorded with both.

I've done the mod replacing K2 R98 with a 1k0 resistor to reduce the ALC
dithering on 40m. This did reduce the power out on 10m in CW and TUNE from
100W to 85W, but I was happy with that compromise for the more stable ALC
action.

Any explanation why is the output SSB is so much reduced compared with CW
and TUNE modes?

73,

John
VK7JB
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[Elecraft] K2: K2/100 birdie @ 3589

2010-11-02 Thread VK7JB

Hi All,

I've just finished K2/100 #6998.  After blowing the PA transistors of the
base K2 by accidentally dropping the frequency probe into the works, I've
completed the KPA100, installed it and all is working very well.  Made
several SSB contacts tonight and I couldn't be happier.  I have a great
sense of achievement :)

I'm curious about a prominent birdie, zero beat at 3589khz.  It's present,
and more prominent, with the antenna disconnected and has its origin
internally.

There are some postings about this birdie from around 2008, but I don't see
any resolution.  I can live with it, even though it's inconveniently located
right where I like to work on SSB phone.  Did anyone work out where this
comes from and whether or not there is a simple fix?  

Also, I've calibrated the K2 reference oscillator several times according to
the N6KR method.  The result is that my frequency display is 20hz off
frequency after the rig has warmed up:  eg it reads .98 for 1.00 WWV
signal.  Am I correct in understanding this is about as good I can expect
given the DAC parameters of the K2?  I can't seem to improve on it further
by repeating it.

73,

John
VK7JB
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[Elecraft] K2: display quirk..

2010-10-21 Thread VK7JB

Hello All,

My base K2 is completed and KSB2, KNB2 and KDSP2 modules are installed and
working well. I'm relieved. Thanks to Don for his reassurance along the way.

I've noticed a quirk with the display of my K2 and can't find it mentioned
in the archives.  While tuning with the VFO, the display will jump for an
instant between either the power display or the keyer speed display.  It is
a very transient switch between the two displays.  It occurs infrequently
and I can't predict it.  Changing the position of the keyer speed and power
pots, in case they are close to some critical voltage position, hasn't
changed the glitch.  This makes no difference to the function of the K2, so
I'm just ignoring it, but I'm wondering if its particular to my K2, or if
others have noticed this.  Seems to me like it might be a processor issue.

Now on with the KPA100...

Thanks and 73
John
VK7JB
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[Elecraft] K2: Advice about Rework Eliminators etc...

2010-08-13 Thread VK7JB

Hello Group,

Having gained some confidence completing a K1 a few months ago, I've just
ordered from Elecraft a K2 with these options:  KPA100, KSB2 and KDSP2.   I
can't see that I'll ever want to install the KNB2 or the 160 or 60m options.  

Does the Rework Eliminator approach to the build simply complicate matters
if I'm installing these options from the beginning and won't ever need the
others?  Are there any other advantages to using the Options bypass headers
etc?  Is it worth the potential extra-confusion of following essentially 2
manuals during the build?  I find the unpcbs website a bit overwhelming and
confusing, whereas I find the Elecraft Construction manuals very clear. It
would be nice to be able to remove the options for isolating problems with
them, but is that reason enough for all the extra fuss using the Rework
Eliminators?

I do like the idea of the Internal Mike Adapter from that company and will
probably order that.

Any ideas or advice would be very welcome,

john
VK7JB
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