I plan to take both my K1/4 and K2/10 out for Field Day this year. Should be
fun!
The K1 was my first kit after I realized I was not accomplishing the goals I
set out when I got my license. So I sold my "appliances" and built the K1 in
2010? About then. At the time, it was a bit daunting, but
While running in Field Day a number of years ago with Rich, NU6T, I had
my K2/10 and he had his K1. Part way through the day, we exchanged
radios since I'd never seen a K1 and I found out what a really cool
little radio that really is. Nothing digital except the display, it
just really
The latest 4-bands fully loaded K1 was sold on eBay for $740!
Even the KBT1 option for K1 went for $140!
...what it means? No door-openers but real compact radios like K1 are missing
on the market
and it does not need to be the SDR or DDC/DUC architecture.
I am still convinced that K1 has one of
For Sale:
Elecraft K1 S/N: 34xx, K1 Upgrade Kit, KNB1, KAT1, KBT1, KFL1-2 (80 and 40),
KFL1-2 (20 and 30), K1BLTXT-X w/o LCD
Elecraft KX1 S/N: 29xx, KXAT1 (20 and 40), KXB3080, KXPD1, KBT1
All in original Factory boxes, unassembled, unmolested.
Price: $3000.00 cash only.
Pick up only
Petr,
I agree, the K1 is also a great lttle rig! I built mine after very invasive
shoulder surgery many years ago. Since I was in quite a bit of pain, on
Vicodin around the clock--and forbidden from lifting heavy weights--I thought
it would be a fun experiment to see if I could build a
, etc. So if Wayne sees this let me know
if it's OK to share the 3DP files.
Eric KE6US
On 11/27/2023 3:51 AM, Jeff Davis wrote:
A long-shot I know, but I'm looking for a KTS1 wide-range tilt stand for an
Elecraft K1.
Will probably have to find some aftermarket substitute, but thought I'd ask
A long-shot I know, but I'm looking for a KTS1 wide-range tilt stand for an
Elecraft K1.
Will probably have to find some aftermarket substitute, but thought I'd ask for
the real thing first.
Thanks!
--
Jeff, KE9V
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Before I place on QTH, I am offering it here.
Elecraft K1, backlight display, 4 band module, 40/30/20/15
Autotuner
kg9hfr...@gmail.com
-73- FrankKG9H
ARRL Life Member
kg9hfr...@gmail.com
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Thanks to Don and Michael for their advice on the K1. It was indeed a simple
tweak of one of the caps on the filter board (pre-mix) and now all seems well
with my K1.
73,
Paul EI5KI
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Paul,
Yes, it does sound like your 4 band filter board needs to be re-aligned.
Remove the KAT1 and install the jumper.
In addition, you must set the switch next to the BNC connector to the K1
setting in order to maintain power control.
If you do not have that switch, then you have an older K1
Hi Paul,
It does sound as though the slug-tuned inductors
on the 20 meter and 15 meter sections of the
Filter board need tweaking. As you noted, one
must remove the KAT1 ATU board from the
Filter board to access those coils. It is necessary
to jumper pins 2 and 10 of J2 on the Filter board
to
Dear Elecrafters,
I'd like some advice before I go delving into something and making it worse! I
have taken my 4 band K1 out of storage. It is set up for 40m, 30m, 20m and 15m.
It also has the auto ATU. On checking it out I find output as expected on 40m &
30m - 5W set gives 5W out on my dummy
Hello Dave,
I have a K1 that I’m looking to sell, and took a look at the power output
before listing it. Power output is as follows:
40 meters 5.2 watts
30 meters 4.5 watts
20 meters 1.3 watts
17 meters 0.7 watts
These are obviously not the expected power output levels. Power supply
Numbers using the Elecraft 20 watt dummy load rather than resonated antennas:
40 M 4.8 W
30 M 5.5 W
20 M2.0 W
15 M1.7 W
Dave K9SW
> On May 11, 2023, at 6:52 PM, DAVID MOORMAN wrote:
>
> I have a K1 that I’m looking to sell, and took a look at the power output
> before
Hello David,
The same issue also exists in my two K1. Waiting for help
73,
Vincent BH5HTF
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Post:
I have a K1 that I’m looking to sell, and took a look at the power output
before listing it. Power output is as follows:
40 meters 5.2 watts
30 meters 4.5 watts
20 meters 1.3 watts
17 meters 0.7 watts
These are obviously not the expected power output levels. Power supply voltage
= 12.8
This kit has been started only a few steps done on filter board. Rest is sealed
never opened. Venmo ok or PayPal friends. Asking 450 shipped conus. W3tsb Todd
Burnham 73
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
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The K1 is sold.
On Wed, Aug 24, 2022 at 9:53 PM Randall Wood wrote:
> Good evening all,
>
> I have both a K1 and a KX3 for sale.
>
> Please reach out for details.
>
> Thanks!
> Randy KE8JWB
>
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Good evening all,
I have both a K1 and a KX3 for sale.
Please reach out for details.
Thanks!
Randy KE8JWB
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Post:
Chris,
That is quite feasible - getting a board is the starting problem.
If you can find a 2 band board for any band(s), you can order the
crystals for the bands you want from Elecraft.
They may also have the K1 band kits in stock which have the capacitors
required for that band. Worst case,
Hello all,
I've been able to buy a K1 here in VK. It is in excellent condition (Ser. No
3380) and has 20 & 40m only.
I know Elecraft stopped supporting some time ago and accessories etc are pretty
much discontinued. I'm interested in getting 15 & 17m band modules - can
anyone offer any
Anyone here looking for a 4 band K1 (40/30/20/15) with battery, tuner,
and zero-beat indicator. It's in excellent condition and also includes
cover, adjustable stand, manual, backlight, and was aligned by Don,
W3FPR. The zero-beat indicator circuit is from K6XX. He's asking $400.
I do not
Tony K2MO asked:
I noticed that the VFO on my 4-band K1 doesn't tune above 14062 and
21061.0 yet it tunes to 7068.6 on 40 meters. The tuning range on 30
meters is 85 kHz (10077 to 10162) so I'm assuming the rig had the
smaller tuning range crystal installed. Tuning range on 40 meters is:
All:
I noticed that the VFO on my 4-band K1 doesn't tune above 14062 and
21061.0 yet it tunes to 7068.6 on 40 meters. The tuning range on 30
meters is 85 kHz (10077 to 10162) so I'm assuming the rig had the
smaller tuning range crystal installed. Tuning range on 40 meters is:
6986 to 7068.6.
Elecraft K1 modifications
Searching for K1 modifications, I found JL3AMK and his website
for Power increased on an Elecraft K1.
Refers to page 79 in the Elecraft manual, DRIVER Q6, 2SC2166.
Resistor 30 is attached to Q6.
Is this a safe or recommended mod?
Did you perform the modification
at 8:30 PM, Ken Brown wrote:
>
> I recently had the question on the Elecraft K1.
> - looking to buy an already built K1 Noise Blanker KNB1.
>
> And here is the best answer to adding a noise blanker.
>
> http://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=clr_ds
I recently had the question on the Elecraft K1.
- looking to buy an already built K1 Noise Blanker KNB1.
And here is the best answer to adding a noise blanker.
http://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=clr_dsp
CLRdsp ClearSpeech® DSP Noise Reduction Processor $220 plus
I can't math !
Correct my #'s below.
Mike, Coreen & Corey
Keswick Ridge, NB
-Original Message-
From: Mike Smith VE9AA [mailto:ve...@nbnet.nb.ca]
Sent: December 4, 2021 2:02 PM
To: 'd...@w3fpr.com'; 'Elecraft@mailman.qth.net'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 VFO reading
As a fo
I can't math !
Correct my #'s below.
Mike, Coreen & Corey
Keswick Ridge, NB
-Original Message-
From: Mike Smith VE9AA [mailto:ve...@nbnet.nb.ca]
Sent: December 4, 2021 2:02 PM
To: 'd...@w3fpr.com'; 'Elecraft@mailman.qth.net'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 VFO reading
As a fo
is no longer available and the new K2
> strip is too thick to fit under the K1 LCD.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 12/3/2021 11:39 PM, Ken Brown wrote:
>> Need the best modifications for back lighting of the K1.
>> This version never had the K1 LCD Backl
, Ken Brown wrote:
Need the best modifications for back lighting of the K1.
This version never had the K1 LCD Backlight Kit.
Ken
Elecraft K1 nr. 260
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.com'; 'Elecraft@mailman.qth.net'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 VFO reading
Thank you very much Don !
This is exactly the type of FB information I was looking for.
I rec'd a few emails telling me to calibrate it, however the VFO reads right
smack dab on perfect, so I didn't
wish to
under the K1 LCD.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 12/3/2021 11:39 PM, Ken Brown wrote:
> Need the best modifications for back lighting of the K1.
> This version never had the K1 LCD Backlight Kit.
>
> Ken
> Elecraft K1 nr. 260
>
__
Ele
of the K1.
This version never had the K1 LCD Backlight Kit.
Ken
Elecraft K1 nr. 260
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Post: mailto:Elecraft
Need the best modifications for back lighting of the K1.
This version never had the K1 LCD Backlight Kit.
Ken
Elecraft K1 nr. 260
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Remember one of the early Elecraft web page descriptions? Former
Heathkit engineer (chief engr?, I forget) wrote a letter praising kit
and radio. An unbeatable ad!
73,
Mike ab3ap
On 11/30/21 8:50 PM, Eric Norris wrote:
...
The K1 is a great little rig. I built the 2- band version, and
is there something else?
>
> Doug, W0UHU.
>
> > Message: 26
> > Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2021 14:45:29 -0800
> > From: Eric Norris norrislawfi...@gmail.com>>
> > To: n4so@gmail.com <mailto:n4so@gmail.com>
> > Cc: "elecraft@mailman qth. ne
else?
Doug, W0UHU.
> Message: 26
> Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2021 14:45:29 -0800
> From: Eric Norris mailto:norrislawfi...@gmail.com>>
> To: n4so@gmail.com <mailto:n4so@gmail.com>
> Cc: "elecraft@mailman qth. net" <mailto:ELECRAFT@mailman.qth.net>>
&
When you find one, be prepared to mod it--one of the widely used mods
vastly helped mine.
73 Eric WD6DBM
On Mon, Nov 29, 2021, 7:50 PM Ken Brown wrote:
> I am looking to buy an already built Elecraft K1 Noise Blanker KNB1.
> The pulse noise from the nearby power lines makes the Elecr
I am looking to buy an already built Elecraft K1 Noise Blanker KNB1.
The pulse noise from the nearby power lines makes the Elecraft K1
not very usable at this location.
Ken
N4SO
E-mail redscarlette7...@gmail.com
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helm [mailto:d...@w3fpr.com]
Sent: November 26, 2021 5:52 PM
To: Mike Smith VE9AA; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 VFO reading
Mike,
The K1 must tune a bit below the low end of each band. That is to
compensate for the crystals on the band board not being precision
crys
Mike,
The K1 must tune a bit below the low end of each band. That is to
compensate for the crystals on the band board not being precision
crystals - so your K1 is behaving as normal.
You CAN tweak it by a small amount on ONE band (the 2nd band will change
too).
In your case, I would
I think what you are seeing is probably typical. I have a K1-4 that tunes down
to 6988 and 13982 on 40 and 20 respectively. My tuning range is a little wider
at 93 kHz.
The Owner’s Manual has a detailed section on VFO alignment. If you didn’t get a
manual with the radio you can probably
Mine that I built around 20 years ago tunes:
40m 6999.9 - 7088.820m 13994.2 - 14083.4
See page 28 of the manual. The tuning range depends on the value of C2. The
range can be further adjusted by the number and spacing of turns on L1.
It would be a good idea to go through a complete alignment
Just bought a K1..an oldie but a goodie, I guess.
NB board and 2 bands board (20/40) No tuner.
So, just playing around, getting familiarized with this new-to-me little rig
before transmitting or hooking it up to a real antenna and I notice:
on 20m: it tunes from 13.974MHz - 14.063MHz
Doug,
The reduced power is a consideration for the internal tuner relays, not
just for the PA transistors.
If you have the internal tuner installed, that power reduction is
automatic. For the K2/10, it is 2 watts and for the K1 it is 1.5 watts.
If you are using an external tuner, then
In learning about my new-to-me K2, I find that there is discussion about
automatic reduction of transmit power during tuning. Does that apply to the K1
as well? The K1 uses the same output transistor as the K2, but in a
single-transistor class C configuration, compared to the K2 which uses two
HiSo I am trying to get my old K1 back up and running. Two, 2 band modules,
80/40 and 20/15 and b1 on each was dead. No oscillator signal at pin 4 on P1,
b2 fine. Replaced X1 crystals on both boards because the boards had been in
storage and bounced around. No change until I tapped on K1
The KAT100/KPA100 is sold as is the K2.
The beautiful little K1 is still available.
Cheers,
Doug W5JV
Visit https://www.qrz.com/db/W5JV for some great vacuum tube finds.
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The link in the email you sent is similar to what I did. It did not work with
the original LCD. Putting a white sheet behind the original LCD did nothing
as it was opaque. I had to get a transreflective one, the key here is it's
translucent to permit back-lighting. It was long ago and I
> On May 16, 2021, at 06:06, Louandzip via Elecraft
> wrote:
>
> If you can't find a kit: I modded my K1 to illuminate the LCD back in '03,
> before the mod kit was available. It's pretty easy to do (a white sticker,
> two leds, and a resistor) and works very well, but it does require a
>
If you can't find a kit: I modded my K1 to illuminate the LCD back in '03,
before the mod kit was available. It's pretty easy to do (a white sticker, two
leds, and a resistor) and works very well, but it does require a
transreflective LCD in place of the original reflective one supplied back
Good evening all,
I’m looking for a LCD backlight kit for the K1. I don’t see it listed on the
Elecraft site anymore and am kicking myself for not picking one up sooner.
If anyone has a kit that is no longer needed, I would be interested. Please
contact me off-list.
73 de AG7TX...
David
Hello- For sale is an unassembled very early K1 kit purchased by myself
way back when from Elecraft, SN-63. I had just finished assembling my first K2
and was eager to get on the K1 but it never happened. The kit has sat in the
box undisturbed in an air conditioned, non smoking, non pet
Its hard to fairly price used gear.
My new price for this is $385 (down fro $475) plus $15 shipping.
Paul
> On Oct 25, 2020, at 12:15 PM, PAUL GACEK via Elecraft
> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
>
> Trying to rationalize my radio collection and I am not really a CW guy.
>
> Operates on all bands
Hi all,
Trying to rationalize my radio collection and I am not really a CW guy.
Operates on all bands and puts out 5w+. Speaker, headphones, keyer etc work
fine.
Has the FL-4 configured for 40m, 30m, 20m and 15m.
ATU and NB installed and working.
K6XX visible tuning indicator.
$475 plus
@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K1]CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1
Message-ID: <8fc24f9f-1159-7d83-6c8a-0537bb48a...@embarqmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
Despite what hat website says, there are no kits available. Tom Hammond
was SK several years ago, b
Thanks Kent,
I already have that in my bookmarks and refer to it often.
Thanks to you and your club (especially Jim Biggerstaff) for maintaining
the website contents.
There is a lot of value there, especially for K1 and K2 owners.
I also have much of the information here on my networked hard
Hi Don . . .
For your future quick reference, and anybody else who might want it, the
direct link to the NØSS (Tom Hammond) articles on our club's website is:
http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/
73,
Kent Trimble, K9ZTV
NØSS Trustee
Mid-MO ARC
Jefferson City, MO
On 10/15/2020 12:32 PM, Don
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net on
behalf of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2020 12:32 PM
To: k7...@aol.com ; grazi...@roccon.com ;
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K1]CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1
Despite what hat website says, there are no kits
Despite what hat website says, there are no kits available. Tom Hammond
was SK several years ago, but his local radio club has preserved the
content on his website.
All the instructions are there, and I believe Tom used FAR Circuits for
his boards. An email to FAR Circuits may turn up a board
Hi,It took awhile to find this site. You will have to dig though it.
http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/I hope this helps,73 Jim H k7sss In a
message dated 10/15/2020 6:10:40 AM Pacific Standard Time, grazi...@roccon.com
writes:
Hello, someone out there still have the kit for CE Tune Led
Al,
You will have to remove the ATU. Install the jumper in band board J8
between pins 1 and 8.
If your K1 does not have a "K1/ATU" switch next to the BNC jack, you
will have to re-install R36 on the bottom of the board - it should have
been left with one leg still soldered.
The lack of
I want to realign the output of my K1, the radio has an internal antenna
tuner. The reason is because I check the radio is not coming out with the
proper power (test performed with dummy load and PWR-SWR meter Daiwa). "OUT"
is at 2.0W, and I can see, on the power meter, 1W.
I proceeded by removing
Does your attenuator LED exhibit the same behavior? If so, check the menu LED
setting: they can be turned off to save battery.
73, Paul W8TM
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Help:
Not necessarily. If the LED is shorted (admittedly a less likely
possibility) it won't have any (or at least very little) voltage across
it ... just as if its drive circuitry was bad.
Having been an engineer responsible for some LED product lines in the
long distant past, I would say that
Measure the voltage across the LED when it’s supposed to be on and off. That
will tell you whether the LED or something else is at fault.
Victor 4X6GP
> On 10 Jul 2020, at 7:25, W4RAM wrote:
>
> Good morning,
> I am looking for your advice with the follow issue:
>
> D1 LED in my K1 does
Good morning,
I am looking for your advice with the follow issue:
D1 LED in my K1 does not work. LED does not light when I activate the RIT
function. I can see in the screen when RIT is activated (ON/OFF).
I already checked the D1 position, also solder, they look correct.
This problem may seem
All:
I'm looking for an Elecraft K1 with a late serial number. Will pay top
dollar for mint condition unit with tuner and clean build.
Email direct.
Tony
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Steve,
The quickest way to do the alignment is to use an RF Probe or an
oscilloscope with a 10X probe.
First probe band board P1 pin 6 and peak for maximum RF on both bands.
The can be done in receive.
Then connect a dummy load and do a TUNE at about 1.5 watts.
Connect a probe to band board
Hi Steve,
Is the problem on both 20 and 40? If only one band check the band
crystal on the filter board.
C2 on the filter board is a fixed cap - no tweaking! ;-)
Also check connectors J6 and J7 on filter board. Bad connection - use
some DeOxit5 cleaner.
Start with alignment according to the
I'm suddenly out of a signal. I get hiss but no signal. I'm using a k1 fil 2
40/20 board.
I was getting weak gain on the 40m side so went in to peak the L1/L2 L5/L6
Inductors.
I messed about with them but was unable to peak them as I heard no change in the
volume of the hiss.
I also tried C2
Measuring the inductance is not a good approach unless you have a way of
measuring it at a specific frequency. The toroid material’s effect on the
inductance of the finished coil varies with frequency, and most LC meters use a
frequency below the HF range.
Victor 4X6GP
> On 30 May 2020, at
Paul,
As far as measuring the inductances, the listed values are only average.
Count the toroid turns correctly and there will be no problem.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 5/29/2020 5:16 PM, Paul Gacek via Elecraft wrote:
John
Fair question as to why not.
I guess it boils down to tolerance in the
Paul,
Yes, correct the turns count on T1 and T2 if necessary.
The impedance matching is important for full power output.
You are not the first to miscount the turns on a toroid (adding an extra
turn). Remember that a single wire through the core is one turn and a
full wrap around the core is
Thanks all for the feedback.
T1 correction is now made and now off to make a cup of tea (there’s a Brit in
me somewhere).
Paul Gacek
W6PNG/M0SNA
Www.nomadic.blog
> On May 29, 2020, at 1:51 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
>
> You count "passages through the hole" as turns in all cases with toroid
John
Fair question as to why not.
I guess it boils down to tolerance in the design. As T1 and T2 are impedance
matches maybe my error isn’t going to push things out of tolerance.
That written, the consensus feed back is I have counted the turns wrong on T1
and it’s easy enough to reduce a
You count "passages through the hole" as turns in all cases with toroid
cores. A straight wire thru the donut is one turn. I can't answer your
question ["does it make a difference?"] because I don't have a K1, but I
did build a K2, and based on that, I think the answer is "Yes, it will
make
Why would you choose not correct a known error?
Correct it and rule it out as a possible culprit in the event you have a
problem with the radio. If you don't correct it, and end up having a
problem, you'll wonder
John AE5X
https://ae5x.blogspot.com
> Any guidance on whether I should correct
I have completed the RF board RX build portion and about to test it with the
filter board and front panel.
I realize I may have a discrepancy on turns for T1. I count a turn by tracing
the wire around the toroid and get 4 turns of green but the manual page 14
states I should count a turn each
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 2:37 PM
To: rocke...@gmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters
There is the possibility that the 40 meter crystal has low activity.
Check the RF voltage at pin 4 of P1 on the band board. You should read
>> I am going to borrow an RF Power meter with probe and check 30 vs 40 meter
>> readings on the Premix in & out and the RF filter in & out. That will
>> greatly help pinpoint the issue.
>>
>> 73
>> Dave wo2x
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
e issue.
73
Dave wo2x
-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 11:39 AM
To: rocke...@gmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters
Dave,
Refer to the K1FL4 instructions and re-tune the trimmers on the
elp pinpoint the issue.
73
Dave wo2x
-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 11:39 AM
To: rocke...@gmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters
Dave,
Refer to the K1FL4 instructions and re-tune
Dave,
Refer to the K1FL4 instructions and re-tune the trimmers on the filter
board. They MUST be done in the proper band sequence - 30 meters before
40m, 15m before 20m. The PreMixer portion is usually the most critical
for power output.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 5/20/2020 11:20 AM,
Hi All,
I am going to sell a K1-4 (4 band 40, 30, 20, 15) for the estate of my
Elmer. In testing the radio I found 40 meters is about 15dB less sensitivity
than 30 and power out about 75 mW. I have double checked the values of
components on the filter board to ensure they are correct and
Several responded and it was a couple of things. First was that the main IC
wasn't seated completely. I removed it, checked the pins and straightened them
a bit. That apparently brought the LED's back to life so when I powered up I
could see them initialize. Then I went to the menu and turned
W1SFR sed:
I recently purchased a K1 and found that the LED's for the RIT and ATTN
don't function correctly. When I turn on the rig the LED's cycle
correctly then go out. When I push either of the buttons and turn the
RIT or ATTN on, neither of the lights come on.
Since you recently bought
Steve,
Those LEDs are activated by 2 pins on the MCU, but the actual activation
of ATTN and RIT/XIT is done via the AUXBUS signalling.
Unless you know that they worked shortly before you bought it, I would
suggest that it may have been unused for some time.
On the chance that the problem is
I recently purchased a K1 and found that the LED's for the RIT and ATTN don't
function correctly. When I turn on the rig the LED's cycle correctly then go
out. When I push either of the buttons and turn the RIT or ATTN on, neither of
the lights come on.
73,
Steve, W1SFR
w1sfr.com
Probably a long shot but does anyone have an unbuilt Elecraft K1 Kit
squirreled away that they are willing to sell?
Thanks for your time
Josh
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Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Thanks for everyone that has contacted me about my K1, it has been sold.
73's
KC6AUP
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Post:
I have a barely used Elecraft K1 for sale (S/N-01351), bought the kit back
in 2002, I just needed something to keep me busy, so I bought it and built
it.I love the receiver on this baby, and used it for a lot of weak signal
stuff, I have replaced it with a K3, so I'm looking at selling it.
It's
For Sale: Elecraft K1-4 (SN01552). Radio has 4 bands (40/30/20/15). Also
includes the ATU, NB, manuals and power chord. The radio is in good
shape and 100 % working. Pictures available on request.
$425 shipped priority mail to US Only
Thanks Harry NK9R
Hi Dennis,
excellent job. Many thanks for sharing it.
Can you advise which direction on the bed is recommended in slicer please?
I am asking as the orientation on the printing plate will be most important
for supports...
Thanks,
Petr
-
73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
Very nice. I went a less imaginative direction. A replica of the
original K1 stand.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1WMjCbeJmLmmJRKf8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/y7FnAUmqgtPQy5ft6
Didn't think it was appropriate to post on Thingiverse as it's a copy of
a proprietary design. I did it as a learning
Since Elecraft hasn't had stock on the K1 stand for ages, N3XKB and myself,
designed one that can be 3d Printed. I posted it on Thingiverse for anyone
that would like to print one out.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3843950
73's
Denis
KC6AUP
--
There is no
Lloyd,
The first thing you should do is adjust the Pre-mixer and RF Bandpass
filters for the 20 meter band. See the K1 manual for the adjustment
procedure.
If that does not bring the output up to at least 5 watts (when using a
13.8 volt or greater power source), then suspect the 22MHz
> I recently bought a two-band K1, s/n unknown.
> It puts out 6W on 40m, but only one watt on 20m,
> measured with a WM-2...
The most likely problem is misalignment of band 2 of the KFL1-2. Perform a
realignment of the 20m portion per the K1 manual.
Don't waste too much time optimizing the
I recently bought a two-band K1, s/n unknown. It puts out 6W on 40m, but
only one watt on 20m, measured with a WM-2 and a dummy load... and the
display on the rig. Internal ATU installed. 13+V supply.
What to check first? etc.
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