Mark,
When you have the problem, look at the voltage at P1 pin 6 (that is
VRFDET signal)?
If that is high, the MCU will limit power drastically.
Make sure Q1 is properly oriented. If that does not help, try a mod to
the KSB2 - reduce R9 to 1.5k and cut the trace between P1 pin 6 and the
Mark,
Pin 5 of U2 provides ALC threshold voltage to the emitter of Q1 on the KSB2
board. The 5.89 V you measured on Pin 5 suggests that the DAC input
register B didn't properly load the data word from the MCU. I would check
the solder joints on all U2 pins and Pins 14, 16 and 17 of the MCU
Gareth,
Yes, 100mV audio should be adequate to drive the KSB2.
Do you have the K2 wired to use an Elecraft or Icom microphone? If so,
try lifting the bias resistor to see if the DC bias is interfering with
the output level of your audio generator - instead of lifting the bias
resistor, you
Fred,
Look carefully, that new manual does not match your KSB2. Yours has an
SSM2165 Speech Compressor and the new one uses an SSM2166 - the added
resistors support that new IC.
As far as the extra 10k resistor, one is supplied with every KSB2 for
use as a bias resistor if needed. It is
Just a tail end to what was said about Edsyn. They charge a monumental sum
for shipping, BUT they send orders in pre-packs by the most economical
method and then they refund the difference back onto your card. They say
it's due to a very old website
Sorry I didn't mention it before and I
Hi TJ, It will be very interesting to see the other answers/recommendations. I
use a controlled temp soldering iron, a whole lot of rosin and solder wick. And
Quick Chip or Cash Olson has a removal kit that is extra nice too. He's the one
that has the solder paste, that works so well. Once
you can break or cut the plastic between each pin and desolder or heat
each one out individually. just take your time. Even a Hakko 808 may have
a problem with so many pins.
WT5Y
-Original Message-
From: TJ Campie
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 7:50 AM
To: Elecraft
Subject:
Tom...
Such things are a pain in the ASCII...and I have made several
mistakes of this kinds previously. After fooling around, tearing traces,
etc. I have discovered that BY FAR THE BEST way to go about this is to
use solder braid. You can buy it in small spools from Radio Shack, or
just
Tom,
It won't help you with that task right now since you have already done
the deed, but the process is easy.
For removing the male headers, you can tug on one pin with pliers while
heating the solder - that pin will come out - continue while they are
all out.
For the female headers, the
John,
Each to his own choices, but I would NEVER use a drill of any sort in a
thru-plated hole Even if the trace is only on one side (particularly on
the component side), I would not take the chance. Consider the
situation where the PC trace is only on the component side of the board
- you
Don:
Well, since you put this out to public view, I will answer in public.
Please note my admonition to BE CAREFUL, and my suggestion to use a pin
vise, not a powered device. There is no need for a complicated set of
rules of behavior when common sense will do.
If you are so concerned about
Tom,
That microphone has an internal amplifier, and the resistor acts as a
collector load resistor. I would guess that anything from the
recommended 820 ohms up to about 2k would work, but I can't say for sure
since I do not have data on the current drawn by the amplifier from a 5
volt
-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 8:49 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
John,
Each to his own choices, but I would NEVER use a drill of any sort in a
thru-plated hole
When I built my K1 I actually installed a male connector in the wrong set of
holes and was able to successfully remove it without destroying it. I used a
large solder sucker (plunger type) and cleared one hole at at time. With a
little additional heating and wiggling I was able to pull the
I don't think anyone has mentioned my favorite fix the goof soldering
tool, a great big vacuum desoldering pump. I use a Soldapult Deluxe
that usually cleans the holes right out, without the foul language that
solder braid seems to need. Do the experts prefer solder braid, or is
that just
Wayne,
That is just where the conversation led. I would not trade my Hakko 808
for solder braid - but there are times when solder braid is the best
answer, use whatever will do the best job.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 9/13/2011 4:37 PM, Wayne Conrad wrote:
I don't think anyone has mentioned my
I have always had great results with the simple Spring loaded solder
suckers that you use with your normal iron.
There is a bit of technique in using them effectively and it's important
to keep the solder sucker well cleaned. In addition to this do ensure
it's lubricated once in a while and
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 00:12:51 +0100
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
I have always had great results with the simple Spring loaded solder
suckers that you use with your normal iron.
There is a bit of technique in using them effectively and it's important
I've used the spring type solder sucker for decades and it works well for
me. A memorable event in my solder sucking career was the removal of the
main right angled multipin connector that had been soldered to the wrong
side of a part built K2 RF board. The board was returned to its owner with
Couldn't afford the vacuum kit I wanted,
so I built a low end wantabe tool for my desoldering tasks.
I have combined a Radio Shack 45-Watt Desoldering Iron
https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731
and one of Radio Shack's (popper styled) Vacuum Desoldering Tool
Soldapulit sells an especially marked ESD Safe unit (Mfgr p/n SS750LS). It
isn't expensive - somewhere between 9 and 11 USD. Dale is quite right.
ESD safety is always something to check on with anything that is brought
into contact with modern gear.
Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
One
Brendon,
I would wager that you purchased the KSB2 about 3 months ago. There was
a short period of time when only 1 of those R-Paks was placed in the
bag. That problem has been corrected by the kiting quality control. I
spotted the problem when I found 2 kits with only one 2.7k R-Pak - one
Thanks for the reply Don,
Will send off an email.
Regards
Brendon
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KSB2-Resistor-Packs-tp6701616p6701798.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
David,
If you are considering the KSB2, I would suggest you install it and the
mic jack - it will be ready if you ever decide to try out some digital mode.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 5/29/2011 3:34 PM, David Dietrich wrote:
Hi All!
I have subscribed to this list in the past when I was working on my
At 12:34 PM 5/29/2011 -0700, you wrote:
Hi All!
I have subscribed to this list in the past when I was working on my K1-4 a
few year back. I just recently broke down and bought a K2 (10 W) s/n
7164. I'm long overdue to get one, but I figured it was now or never.
I am planning on using this
TJ,
If you are doing it for the first time, give yourself 8 to 12 hours for
the whole task.
As Alan Wilcox has said, use Specrtrogram for alignment, and become
familiar with its use beforehand since you have a deadline. The use
of Spectrogram 5.17 (and its download) is available from Tom
Hi Tom,
I'm a slow and methodical constructor and the KSB2 took me 8 hours to build,
over 4 nights.
What took a bit of time for me was the BFO alignment to optimise TX audio,
configuring the filters etc. I found Spectrogram very helpful. I did a lot
of monitoring and recording to get the
TJ,
If you've built kits before, you should have plenty of time to get it
done. Enjoy the build!
You might want to order some toroids from Mychael, The Toroid Guy, ahead
of time so you have them ready.
Watch that you put the diodes in properly. I always fold the top lead
down on all of them
Tom,
John's comments are right on for the entire process of building,
installing and doing the alignment.
The building is not a problem, it just depends on your construction
methods - if you are a insert one component and then solder it type of
builder, it will take you longer than those who
Discovered my freq counter probe is intermittent, trying to fix, but
ordered a new one from elecraft just in case, guess i'll have to
shelve the k2 until the new one arrives.
Matt
W8ESE
Former KD8DAO
http://blog.MattIsKichigai.com
On Sat, May 2, 2009 at 12:14 PM, Matt Palmer kd8...@gmail.com
Matt,
Check the crimp pins in the connector housing - that is the most common
place for the probe to fail. The pins must be inserted correctly into
the housing and the small tabs must lock into the rectangular holes in
the side of the housing. If the wire has been inserted too far into the
Chris,
Track down the receive problem first - it is not related to either the
mic wiring or the transmit path.
The problem is on the KSB2 board.
First thing to check is the orientation of the diodes on the KSB2 board
- all the cathodes (marked ends) should be mounted away from the board.
The
Hi Glenn:
FB on all this. I LOVE the idea of a hard number of paid members such as 11
for club business.
All I saw was a typo or two - checks for club rather than 'cub' business. HI
Also you have two instances of the word 'next' in one sentence to describe
the 2 readings. Change the last
Have you checked the obvious things? I feel qualified offering the
following suggestions as I've made all of these mistakes myself :-)
- Make sure the antenna is plugged into the right connector. If your
KAT2 is connected, use one of the Antenna Tuner connectors on the
back side of the
This sounds a lot like a problem I had installing the KNB2 (which
still isn't solved, regrettably). The cables between the top cover
and the main boards of the K2 have a variety of connections, and they
can get flexed in taking the cover off. In my case, the ground
shield broke at the
Oh, forgot about rAnt. Make sure you didn't accidentally turn on rAnt
(the receive-only antenna you get with the K160RX option) in the
menu. It's right next to the CAL menu item and I've accidentally
turned it on while calibrating the filters.
73
--
Joe KB8AP
On May 15, 2008, at 11:34
: [Elecraft] KSB2 INSTALL - RX LOST
Hi Glenn:
FB on all this. I LOVE the idea of a hard number of paid members such as 11
for club business.
All I saw was a typo or two - checks for club rather than 'cub' business. HI
Also you have two instances of the word 'next' in one sentence to describe
the 2
Kristinn:
Looks like the resistor gods were with you this time. If you look at
the schematic for the KSB2, you'll see (upper right corner) that RP2 is
4 separate resistors with no pins in common (1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8), so you
can keep RP2 installed reversed. The same is true for RP1. HOWEVER,
Hi Robert,
Correct, just had the side off #1400 to check.
Regards,
Mike VP8NO
- Original Message -
From: Robert 'RC' Conley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 10:24 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] KSB2 mic hook up
| I'm installing the KSB2 in
Chris,
I cannot relate 'sidetone in the headset' with SSB operation. In CW,
there is a sidetone presented to the headphones or speaker which follows
the keying, but there is nothing of that sort for SSB. If you lost your
CW sidetone while using the K2 memory, that is quite another matter.
I cannot relate 'sidetone in the headset' with SSB operation. In CW,
there is a sidetone presented to the headphones or speaker which
follows the keying, but there is nothing of that sort for SSB.
The K3 does provide a means of monitoring the transmitted audio (but
that is not a
@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 3:08 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 sidetone?
I cannot relate 'sidetone in the headset' with SSB operation. In CW,
there is a sidetone presented to the headphones or speaker which
follows the keying, but there is nothing of that sort for SSB.
The K3
to taste and local conditions.
David
G3UNA
- Original Message -
From: Craig Rairdin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 3:08 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 sidetone?
I cannot relate 'sidetone in the headset' with SSB operation. In CW
--- Steve Kallal [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It has been a few weeks since I built the KSB2 option. There is one problem
I haven't yet resolved. The response on the USB side of OP1 is not as broad
as the LSB side, and has a narrower peak.
Hi Steve.
Assuming your KSB2 is working properly, what
Steve,
Tell us more. The SSB OP1 filter as observed with Spectrogram in LSB or
USB should show a relatively flat passband extending from about 300 Hz
to 2600 Hz. I do not understand 'peak' in that context. It may be that
your BFO frequencies are not adjusted properly, but your use of the
Mark,
The path through Q1 is only used in CW mode to make the path from the
BFO to the Transmit Mixer (on the RF Board) complete - that circuitry
replaces C167 which you removed from the RF board.
For SSB, the Balanced modulator signal goes 'backwards' through the
filter and is applied to Q2
I noticed this did not go to the list - I intended it to! 73, Don W3FPR
Original Message
Steve,
Yes, just put a short length of wire on the other receiver and adjust
the spacing, length of antenna and other things so you get about an S-9
or just a bit higher signal on the
Hi Steve,
It is a worthwhile exrecise. You do not only get a wider band width but
also less ripple within the pass band. There is an upgrade kit available
from Elecraft and you have no need to change the entire KSB2 board. I
would suggest 2.4Khz because this will give you good sound
Haken,
At this point, do not be concerned about those voltages you found did not
agree with the chart in the manual.
The no voltages at the diodes is a cause for concern. The problem may be in
where you measured for voltage or the settings you were using. We will get
to that.
Let's verify
Don, it was a short betwen either RFC1 or RFC2 and one of the crystal
cases that caused the problem.
Really embarassing because it was basically the first and only real
problem I have come upon building my K2 #5810 and all the extras... :-)
It's so easy to happen that I really think it
Are you still in SSB mode or perhaps did the MODE button get bumped to put
you in CW mode??
Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
Hi,
My SSB module worked fine before. I add my kpa100 and every test went well.
I test my kat100 and every test went well until I did the last test with the
dummy
Before you send it off. Check the diodes. I installed 1 backwards and got
the same issues. I am referring to the switching diodes on both ends of the
crystal filter.
Richard Kent, WD8AJG
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I think you should keep the KSB2 until the new one is finished also, BUT...
The statement without it, my beloved K2 is dead is not true. Just stick a
couple jumpers in the short jacks (1 to 3), and a [I Forgot] pF cap in the
big one, between 5 and 7 if memory serves.
Dan / WG4S / K2 #2 456
Fred, take care not to put too much solder on the pins of the crystals when
you install them in your new KSB2. One of the most common reasons for low
gain is a bit of solder that puddled around the pin under the crystal can
where you can't see it and shorting the signal path to the can. Remember,
I know this message is a bit old, but I've been too tied up with other
projects to read the reflector mail for the last two months (fyi - the
reflector generated over 2000 emails in the last 2 months).
The increased gain mod I did for the KSB2 was originally designed to
increase the transmit
John - KI6WX said:
(fyi - the
reflector generated over 2000 emails in the last 2 months).
==
No wonder I havn't got the house painted!
Rick Dettinger
K7MW
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You
It's very unlikely you'd find any benefit from using this mod running 5
watts PEP on any band. That mod was specifically to provide full K2 output
for those units who, because of the combination of the particular K2 and mic
used, don't make a full 10 watts PEP output on all bands. The mod would
Roy;
I'm confused. Previous posts indicate you have already made this mod
(and the secondary ALC mod) to your KSB2. If so, what have you found?
I am contemplating the mod (and possibly the secondary ALC mod) for
my K2/100. Thus I am very interested in comments on both mods...
On Jun 3,
Roy,
As this mod is after the balanced modulator it does nothing to affect the mic
gain or improve the VOX operation.
73
Stewart G3RXQ
On Sat, 3 Jun 2006 12:41:42 -0400, Roy Morris wrote:
I would like to hear from anyone who has K2/100s with both the unmodified
KSB2 and the modified KSB2
I just wonder why would a K2 owner want to spend good money for one of those
solely to jumper the mic lines. There is a header to do the same thing on
the rear of the front panel. Elecraft designed it so you can interface any
mic to the K2, but I still believe it is easier to re-wire the mic
On Wed, 5 Apr 2006 08:22:01 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:
There is a new item from MFJ that people may find helpful when
interfacing a mic to the K2. Its an MFJ-655 mic equalizer/conditioner/
preamp that is supposed to interface any mic to just about any rig.
I just wonder why would a K2 owner
Folks,
My advice on mic wiring - unless you must use the mics with multiple rigs,
wire the mic configuration header for the Elecraft mics, and then change the
wiring at the mic plug to match the Elecraft configuration.
By doing that, it certainly simplifies things a whole lot. I see no sense
in
Steve,
Unless something has changed at Elecraft packaging recently, those parts are
mixed in with all the rest (not packaged in a separate envelope). So if you
have sorted all the parts and they are still not present, a note to
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] would seem to be in order.
Unless of
Hi Dean,
I had made some resistor changes to increase the compression. It works well
now. I do not have my Elecraft notes handy but I got the info to change from
the following web site. I couldn't find the English version of this.
N2TK, Tony
http://www.mydarc.de/df7khk/dwn/ksb2_mod.pdf
Bob Nielsen wrote:
Spectrogram - an audio spectrum analyzer that runs on a Windows
computer (there are others that will work on other OS's, but
doesn't everyone run Windows G).
Actually I am reading this on Linux.
I did my alignment on a Linux machine using one of the digital mode
Cathy,
Yes there is a simpler way to do that! That way is called Spectrogram - an
audio spectrum analyzer that runs on a Windows computer (there are others
that will work on other OS's, but doesn't everyone run Windows G).
You can download version 5 of Spectrogram from Tom Hammond's website
Don Wilhelm wrote:
Cathy,
Yes there is a simpler way to do that! That way is called Spectrogram - an
audio spectrum analyzer that runs on a Windows computer (there are others
that will work on other OS's, but doesn't everyone run Windows G).
Actually I am reading this on Linux. But the
On Feb 12, 2006, at 6:06 PM, Cathy James wrote:
Don Wilhelm wrote:
Cathy,
Yes there is a simpler way to do that! That way is called
Spectrogram - an
audio spectrum analyzer that runs on a Windows computer (there are
others
that will work on other OS's, but doesn't everyone run Windows
Spectrogram ran under wine for me.
It is better tham gmfsk for this task because it has a settable
integration period.
Leigh/WA5ZNU
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Subscriber
Cathy, N5WVR wrote:
Thanks to Don and everyone who replied. I have whipped up the connector
cable and calibrated everything with Spectrogram. I don't know how well
the result will sound, but the passband sure looks like it's in the
right place now. :-)
--
I found that
John, NA8M wrote:
...the MD2 sounded bad on frequency, but sounded normal if I tuned up about
40 hz.
The Ten Tec had no lows and changing frequency made little difference. But,
it
took more voice to trip the VOX with the Ten Tec.
Would this be due to my filter setup?
Will adjusting the OP1
John,
I must ask - how did the receiving station know he was actually tuned to
your frequency if he did not tune for the best sounding voice. If both of
you were relying on the indicated frequency of the tranceiver, there are two
places for error to creep in - his transceiver calibration and
Thanks for the replies to my earlier post - can someone
confirm that when cycling through SSbC from 1-1 to 4-1 what
the states of the three compressor pins COMP0/COMP1/COMP2 are please?
They start all high for SSBC 1-1, then COMP2 goes low, then COMP2 + COMP1,
until all three are low for
Fred,
Yes some of the computer cable connectors are too high. If you are wiring
for the Elecraft configuration, you can use the 2 pin computer type jumpers
(available from RS, Mouser, scrounged from your local computer dealer,
etc.). Even if you are not using the Elecraft pinout, many of the
They're missing. There should be a 12 pin male and two 3 pin male
connectors on the KSB2. All three mate with jacks on the RF board.
On Sat, 25 Jun 2005 22:00:43 -0500, kc4eyf [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
KC4EYF HERE K2#4877
After a long Break on Building and playing a little cw with k2 I am
Fred,
Those are the same parts I had with my KSB2. The CTSK 045161473 is
called out in the parts list as 61473 for RP5. The '6X-2-202 B02242
part I used for RP3, trusting that the only part left was the correct
part.
The KDSB seems to work, but I've never used one before, so what do I
know.
Brent Wrote...
I am in the process of building my new KPA100. I need to determine
The KSB2 firmware revision. Is there a way to do that? Looking at the
little sticker on the chip, it reads 104. I have my doubts about that
being the firmware revision. I need to have revision 1.06 or later.
9:19 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 firmware
Brent Wrote...
I am in the process of building my new KPA100. I need to determine
The KSB2 firmware revision. Is there a way to do that? Looking at the
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Post to: Elecraft
The KSB2 firmware revision can be obtained by first setting the SSBA
menu entry to BAL, then holding the VOX switch. (Return the SSBA menu
entry to its normal setting after checking the firmware revision.)
Well, I had never read this procedure before, so I gave it a try. SSBA
entry to BAL,
In a message dated 17/04/05 16:25:51 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
Well, I had never read this procedure before, so I gave it a try. SSBA
entry to BAL, then held VOX and got . . . nothing.
Reply: --
Try activating BAL mode, go
Thanks for the suggestions. I followed them all. I
found some 27 AWG red enamel wire and re-wound RFC1
2, and I believe this is what fixed my problem. The
enamel on the wire that came with the KSB2 kit, seemed
to shear off with the sharp edges of the toroid cores,
and this may have been
Andrew,
Plug the KSB2 in again and be certain that it is properly positioned on the
headers. It is easy to misplug the KSB2 - if you see the standoff and TP2
properly aligned with the holes in the SSB board, it probably is mounted
correctly.
As a check (but not a permanent fix) slide a small
Andrew Meier wrote:
I
noticed when I jiggle around RFC2 I get some noise in
the receiver, and those little RFC1 2 toroids on the
KSB board were a challenge to wind, so I'm wondering
if I have a problem there.
Be sure to check for PTTL (Poorly Tinned Toroid Leads).
--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno
The problem is that the receiver became very quiet. I
could still hear the strongest signals if I turn the
AF Gain way up, and instead of S9 on the meter,
they're way down to S1. The KSB2 manual specifically
states (page 15, final step of initial test) this
should not happen, and if it does,
Ci,
Very little has been changed in the KSB2 board but some folks did change
some resistors around, so I would recommend that you download the KSB2
manual from the Elecraft site and compare all the resistors and capacitors
(particularly C38) with your board. Look especially for changes in the
VR2BrettGraham wrote:
An INRAD CW filter for the K2 is already available, but W2VJN
suggested to me I might not want to buy one as it's hard to use - no
ability to select it - so no point in doing more than a limited production
run call them prototypes. Even then, the cost was not far into
G3RXQ shared with us some measurements he made commented:
This performance was very much better than I expected. The passband has,
however
about a 2dB ripple in it.
I think it is this ripple that makes using my K2 on SSB seem tiring
to listen to as compared to other rigs. Reducing the
-Original Message-
... - but I just can't pull some things
through on the K2 that I can with the 950 fitted with decent after-market
filters.
Comparing the K2 to any other rig outfitted with after-market filters is not
really a fair comparison. It does make me wonder how the
Neal,
The Hi-Cur messages are likely not due to the KSB2 installation.
Torubleshoot the Hi-CUR problem first.
The Hi-CUR problem is most likely associated with either the Low Pass
filter, OR a problem with the RF detection and the related transmit ALC.
Do you get the Hi-CUR warnings at all
Neal,
A normal K2 will have more gain on 40 and 30 meters than on the other bands.
I would check the LPF for those bands carefully - number of turns on the
toroids (count the times the wire goes through the center - counting the
outside turns often results in a toroid with an extra turn), then
Hi all,
Thanks for giving some ideas!
I checked the resistors on the bottom of the ssb board, they are all
correct. I must say that trying to identify parts on the top of the
board is a real challenge, its so stuffed that its almost impossible!
Don, I redid the output amperage at 10 watts:
Your current readings don't look out of hand to me! 40 is normally higher
because that is the band that usually produces the greatest RF output. Your
readings are consistent with my K2.
Interesting that you say the output reads over 15 watts in all cases,...
Few K2's make 15 watts on 10. Many
In a message dated 21/02/05 14:53:44 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
I am trying to install the KSBS2 into my K2.
Problem symptoms are that I get the Hi Current warning, plus I get no
variance on my separate receiver when trying the fine balancing.
The rest of the alignment
Neal,
Taking things in reverse order - go ahead and put the Noise Blanker itself
back in rather than the 6 dB pad resistors. It will only affect the receive
path and not the Transmit path.
OK - your current draw at a constant 10 Watts output looks just fine to me.
It is a bit unusual that your
Neal,
Just an additional note - I usually adjust the SSB Carrier balance by
looking at the RF output (with no audio signal) with my 'scope - I adjust
the carrier balance for minimum power output (compromising if necessary
between USB and LSB). You should find the proper point near the mid-point
Off List Reply Follows - copied to the reflector
Hi Jeff. I don't have the schematics in front of me but some of the crystal
filter capacitors were changed in the later revisions to widen the response
from about 2.1 KC (actually measured about 1.9 at 6 dB down points on mine)
to about 2.4 KC.
John,
Those capacitor value changes will change the filter bandwidth from the
older 2.1 kHz bandwidth to the newer 2.3 kHz width - nothing but the
capacitors need be changed. That is the only change (and it is equivalent
to the KI6WX filter bandwidth mod). Yes, I do recommend it - unless you
Jerry,
If you have previously set up your CW filters and BFOs- do not change them
(unless you find you want to later on). Do initially set up the SSB filters
and BFOs as indicated - that will get you up and running, Then refine the
BFOs (and filter widths) to your tastes, remembering that
I have a KSB2 and MH2 that I just completed as well. I got a report of
low audio from my one SSB contact so far, F5PFP in Lyons, France, and
the vox seems hard to trigger. I was running my K5OOR amp on 17m, so
somewhere between 25 and 40W expected output, though I don't have a PEP
meter
Hi, Brian-
It is fine to allow the secondary windings of KSB2 T1,T2 to nest with their
respective primary windings. In other words, listen to your instincts and
wind them in the same direction. In this instance, the sense of the
primary in relation to its secondary is unimportant.
73,
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