Do NOT use a Li-ion 12vdc battery in your Tesla. It probably is a 12vdc, not
a 13.5vdc like the lead/acid is. You will destroy the Li-ion.
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Sent from the Electric Vehicle
EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Peter C.
> Thompson via EV
> Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2016 1:00 PM
> To: ev@lists.evdl.org
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] 12v tales
>
> Completely agree - with a small reservation: You don't want to use a
> no-name converter in your expensiv
EV
Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2016 1:00 PM
To: ev@lists.evdl.org
Subject: Re: [EVDL] 12v tales
Completely agree - with a small reservation: You don't want to use a
no-name converter in your expensive car. I made that mistake once,
won't do it again. I will only use name-brand equipment. In my
On 7 Jun 2016 at 12:17, Jan Steinman via EV wrote:
> Almost any oeuniversal switching power supply designed to work from 120 to
> 240 VAC without changing jumpers or switches IS a traction pack power
> converter! The main difference is a full-wave bridge on the input, which means
> you don't even
Completely agree - with a small reservation: You don't want to use a
no-name converter in your expensive car. I made that mistake once,
won't do it again. I will only use name-brand equipment. In my EV's
case, I'm using the Meanwell 750W 15V (SP-750-15). I've turned the
voltage down to
One thing I haven’t seen mentioned here is that power converters specifically
designed to convert traction pack voltage to 12 VDC are expensive, whereas
generic power supplies that do the same thing for line voltage are cheap.
Almost any “universal” switching power supply designed to work from
Barry Oppenheim via EV wrote:
Slightly OT, does anyone have a good way to add manual function to a HV
contactor? It would be nice to be able to turn on the DC/DC converter
manually in case of 12V failure without having to rig a jumper. I vaguely
remember that one of the OEM EV's had such a
EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
Is it more expensive to design semiconductors to switch 10 amps at 12 volts,
or 0.4 amps at 300 volts? That's not a rhetorical question: I don't know.
You generally pay by the watt. Similar price to switch 12v at 100a, or
120v at 10a, etc.
You could
I've had a few occasions where the DC/DC converter was the only 12V source
for the EV. Under normal circumstances 500W seems fine. Extreme loads
(winter with headlights, full fan, full wipers, lots of braking and vacuum
pump) will trip the fuse/breaker.
Slightly OT, does anyone have a good way
On 06/06/2016 03:04 PM, Jan Minnie via EV wrote:
I'm new to this and your discussion has me totally confused. What is
the verdict? Sep 12v Battery for accessories or not??
You should use a 12 v battery as well as a DC/DC converter or alternator
to keep it charged. The 12 volt battery will
On 6 Jun 2016 at 14:54, Jan Steinman via EV wrote:
> Imagine if every little auto-electric goody sold by JC Whitney had to
> come in a half-dozen different voltages? Anything as expensive as a
> stereo COULD have an integrated, wide-range voltage converter, but
> there are a lot of auto gadgets
> From: John Lussmyer via EV
>
> On Mon Jun 06 08:44:58 PDT 2016 ev@lists.evdl.org said:
>> I've wondered about this as well. Why keep the legacy 12v battery in an
>> EV? Design all the lights, motors, and electronics to run on pack
>> voltage, and eliminate the 12v battery,
Alan Brinkman via EV wrote:
For someone new to electric vehicles, and for a majority of
conversions, a 12 volt accessory battery is the simple means to power
accessories.
That's right. The KISS solution is a 12v accessory battery. Even Tesla
is using a 12v lead-acid accessory battery.
Some
Subject: Re: [EVDL] 12v tales
> I'm new to this and your discussion has me totally confused. What is
the verdict? Sep 12v Battery for accessories or not??
>Sent from my iPhone
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On 6 Jun 2016 at 8:57, John Lussmyer via EV wrote:
> Putting 300VDC at the fingertips of the driver and passengers? Doesn't sound
> like a good idea.
Aren't most all vehicle electrical items switched electronically these days?
Everything seems to go through some computer.
> Main pack dies
I'm new to this and your discussion has me totally confused. What is
the verdict? Sep 12v Battery for accessories or not??
Sent from my iPhone
> On 06 Jun 2016, at 8:51 PM, Lee Hart via EV wrote:
>
> John Lussmyer wrote:
>> Putting 300VDC at the fingertips of the
John Lussmyer wrote:
Putting 300VDC at the fingertips of the driver and passengers?
Note that normal 240vac has a peak of around 340v.
High-power accessories like heaters, air conditioners, power steering
pumps, etc. could run directly from the 300vdc. They would be hard
wired, so consumers
, I now using between 2 and 3 ah
per mile.
Roland
- Original Message -
From: EVDL Administrator via EV<mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org>
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List<mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org>
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2016 9:42 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] 12v t
t; <leeah...@earthlink.net>; "Electric Vehicle Discussion
List" <ev@lists.evdl.org>
Sent: 06-Jun-16 8:57:11 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] 12v tales
On Mon Jun 06 08:44:58 PDT 2016 ev@lists.evdl.org said:
I've wondered about this as well. Why keep the legacy 12v battery in
an
EV? Desig
On Mon Jun 06 08:44:58 PDT 2016 ev@lists.evdl.org said:
>I've wondered about this as well. Why keep the legacy 12v battery in an
>EV? Design all the lights, motors, and electronics to run on pack
>voltage, and eliminate the 12v battery, its charging circuits, and problems.
Putting 300VDC at the
On 6 Jun 2016 at 8:03, Roland via EV wrote:
> My first EV that I received back in 1976 and still have it today, uses
> LINE voltage to run all the control circuits. LINE voltage is the same
> voltage as the main battery ...
> My EV control voltage was ran off a Honey Well motor generator that
Roland via EV wrote:
A dead 12 volt battery is the problem when you have your control
circuits in your EV run by 12 volts. My first EV that I received
back in 1976 and still have it today, uses LINE voltage to run all
the control circuits. LINE voltage is the same voltage as the main
battery.
e Discussion List
<ev@lists.evdl.org>
Sent: Monday, 6 June 2016, 15:03
Subject: Re: [EVDL] 12v tales
A dead 12 volt battery is the problem when you have your control circuits in
your EV run by 12 volts. My first EV that I received back in 1976 and still
have it today, uses LINE
I have a AGM 12v for aux and controller. I have a small charger wired in
permanent so while charging main pack it too is topped off. The DC2DC hardly
has to work. Since I charge daily the vampire current has not been a problem.
7 years and no problems... so far.
Buddy Mills
--
Sent with
A dead 12 volt battery is the problem when you have your control circuits in
your EV run by 12 volts. My first EV that I received back in 1976 and still
have it today, uses LINE voltage to run all the control circuits. LINE voltage
is the same voltage as the main battery.
Some control
I made a pigtail "jumper cable" for my conversion. I have used it once. I put
it across 4 LFP cells and just touched the digital relay input to enable the
DC-DC converter. Once it came online, I didn't need the battery, and I could
remove the jumper.
Mike
On June 5, 2016 7:20:32 PM MDT,
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