Re: PowerMac G4 (DA) wiring clutter
Bruce Johnson wrote: On Sep 16, 2009, at 3:45 PM, Clark Martin wrote: Heck, you may find a computer repair place will give 'em to you for free if you ask politely. You could probably find them at http://www.digikey.com or perhaps http://www.alltronics.com. There's an unending list of places you could find them..if I just knew what people called 'em! Snip: I looked at mouser electronics, cyberguys, monoprice, and jameco all to no avail. Every friggin PC I've worked on in the last 15 years has had them inside. I found this style at Mouser. It's like a tie-wrap but you can easily release it and re-secure it. -- Clark Martin Redwood City, CA, USA Macintosh / Internet Consulting I searched with Clusty and found under search terms, Electronic Twist Lock Cable Tie, the Clusters/Cable clamps/Cable clamps, wiring ducts/Hinged Twist Lock simplifies cable Installation: http://news.thomasnet.com/fullstory/825469. Also under the same Cluster , wiring ducts, cable clamps/ Routing Clip, pictures of every imaginable Cable Clip and Clamp with names and pictures. Be inventive and project explicit in search terms and search some more. HTH, ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Smurf
On Sep 7, 2009, at 11:13 PM, Ernest L. Gunerius wrote: At 7:43 PM -0400 9/7/2009, Len Gerstel wrote: On Sep 7, 2009, at 7:09 PM, dorayme wrote: How do you find out on Google, if you don't have inside knowledge, why some models were called smurfs? This is a good example of what we need to make sure we are teaching the next generation of students, how to search, combine ideas and what to look for. Snip: - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth. A search with Clusty using Mac model smurf has the first three hits the Mac G3. Point the search to Mac first then model then smurf. At least it seems to work this way. I would imagine the same results would be returned but farther down the return list with a different order of the search terms. Snip: ErnieG Only one of those links even comes close to the explanation of Smurf, and that is the lowendmac that includes a picture of smurfs with no label saying that this is a smurf on the page. Others just say something to the effect of Nickname: Smurf with no explanation if you did not know what a smurf is. While smurfs were pretty ingrained in the US (and I believe European) culture of the 1970's and 80's there are many cultures that have never heard of them. Len Sorry: I thought the questions were: why some models were called smurfs? and then: how to search, combine ideas and whatto look for. All other reported searches seemed to say they only found the description of the little Blue and White figures with no connection to Macs. The example I gave answered two of the questions. That leaves: combine ideas and whatto look for. Which are beyond my teaching skills. :-( As i said my assumptions are usually in error. :-[ ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Smurf
At 7:43 PM -0400 9/7/2009, Len Gerstel wrote: On Sep 7, 2009, at 7:09 PM, dorayme wrote: How do you find out on Google, if you don't have inside knowledge, why some models were called smurfs? This is a good example of what we need to make sure we are teaching the next generation of students, how to search, combine ideas and what to look for. OTOH it's maybe it should be hard to find, and left as an exercise for the searcher. After all, a girl has to keep some mystery about her. - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth. A search with Clusty using Mac model smurf has the first three hits the Mac G3. Point the search to Mac first then model then smurf. At least it seems to work this way. I would imagine the same results would be returned but farther down the return list with a different order of the search terms. I don't use Google anymore or I would check using it. Please correct me as my assumptions are usually in error. :-[ Enjoy, ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: PowerMac G3 wont boot after Tiger effort
On Jul 10, 2009, at 8:30 PM, Po-en Tsai wrote: On 11/07/2009, at 12:16 PM, Bruce Johnson wrote: Yank the pram battery. Press the CUDA switch. Wait 15 minutes, re- insert PRAM battery, press cuda switch again, boot. In the quoted post, Bruce says to press the CUDA button twice between a boot. According to the Apple Help Documents, it mentions clearly that you must ONLY press the CUDA button ONCE between boot up. Maybe I am wrong? Apple's advice on resetting CUDA: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1939 I think it depends on how long you wait between pushes ... too quick and electronic mobo things can get mangled ... probably requiring a battery out ... wait ... then replace ... Apple's advice does not remove the Battery. In which case pressing the CUDA will slightly discharge the Battery progressively more each time the CUDA is pressed. Therefore they say one press to avoid wasting the Battery. I don't have the original post. Did Bruce also say to first disconnect the wall power? Bruce also says first remove the Battery in which case only the capacitors are discharged. Capacitors have memory so that even if shorted they can return to an apparently slightly charged state. When the Battery is reinstalled the prom might come up in an unknown state so Another CUDA Press is needed to ensure proper reset. ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: How to capture streaming video
Somehow my dvr did not record a show that I regularly watch . However, the network has it on their website. Is it possible to capture the show on my computer? How can I do that? I have a Powermac G5 with the latest updates to the OS and Safari. I use Cosmopod it works with Safari 4. Free trial at :http://cocoamug.com/cosmopod/. It is no hassle ready to go when any downloadable Video is visible. Just click Icon that is placed in Safari's menu bar. Auto download after Click while you watch. Low Cost. 8.90 Euros ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: PRAM battery?
If you have an accessible cold water ground, and that cold water system is continuous throughout the premises, you have some hope of the ground being reasonably low resistance. The focus of the NEC is fire safety [ * ] , and their code is a minimum from that point of view. There are better ways of effecting an electrical ground system, but the NEC gives the minimum acceptable system, and most communities have adopted the NEC. [ * ] The clue as to their focus should be apparent from the name of the publisher: NFPA (National Fire Protection Association). How true. And, NEC stands for: The National Exception Code' or possibly: The National Exasperation Code. :-) Be sure to read all the references to every Code to find all the possible exceptions that may fit your particular situation. Hence the Exasperation. Been there, saved the money, passed the Inspection, ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: A polite netiquette back and forth
everybody is never going to be happy. :-) Tech people like bottom posting, the rest of the world top posts. I get it, I don't mind switching back forth but in Thunderbird it is a 4 click process to switch. Is there a mail client that lets you choose when, say, right clicking the reply button ? In Eudora 6.2.4 select what you want to include in the reply and hold the Shift key down while choosing Reply Quoting Section from the Message Menu. I do not know if this feature is available in other Mail Clients. But in a perfect world it would be. HTH ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Lightning Season
Each fire marshall has their own interpretation of the code and what is important in it. We also go some strange observations, ones that couldn't have been although things may have got lost in translation. For me the tricky part was to locate power strips with long cords, upwards of 25'. -- Clark Martin Redwood City, CA, USA Macintosh / Internet Consulting I always made my own Power Strips with Four Way Metal Wall Boxes with two dual Receptacles and Round heavy duty three conductor stranded #10 AWG outdoor rated Cable. The Receptacles should be 20 Amp Rated or to match the upstream Breaker and Plug. 20 Amp works fine for a 15 Amp Service if the Breaker is 15 Amp. # 10 wire is good for 30 Amps and will insure a low voltage drop for long runs. Don't try this if you are not conversant with the code. If you have an open Stove Receptacle with a 50 Amp Breaker and Socket you could go to #6 AWG Outdoor cable with Sockets and Plug to match.. This is handy for outdoor power tools and devices with electric motors. But you might have to hide it when the Inspector shows up. ;-) Be sure all the screws in the wall sockets are tight to avoid Heating and Fire especially in old wiring. After years of temperature cycling the screws tend to loosen. It is cumulative. A little loose a little heat. a little heat more loosening and so on. HTH, ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: boot problem after pwr outage
On Jun 10, 2009, at 5:10 PM, Ernest L. Gunerius wrote: I did try without Keyboard or Mouse with no difference in action. Still boots to OF. It certainly appears something in the hardware is fried. I'd start with the stuck light on the power button, but in the long run the firmware controls the initial boot device, so you'd have to assume either the PRAM/NVRAM reset procedure isn't working, or the firmware flash ROM is faulty. Either way, it's likely a big problem. I'd strip down to the bare minimum to hardware just to narrow the possibilities. Hi Kris; Thank you for making the Boot Process more clear. When I make the decision on what to buy ( either cheapest Quicksilver or dual 1.8 Gig G5 my max $ limit) I will maybe investigate per your instructions. For now at least I can still limp along with an occasional boot through OF. Ernie --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: boot problem after pwr outage
For now at least I can still limp along with an occasional boot through OF. And don't be surprised if other things start acting up on this computer... -- Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Hi Bruce; Thank you for reminding me. I do have a daily external backup though. Ernie --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: boot problem after pwr outage
I doubt it...this sounds like something's fried. With luck it's the USB devices: the keyboard or the mouse. You can try unplugging them and just powering it up with the front button, see what happens. -- Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs I did the Battery-CUDA 30 min- CUDA again and still booted into OF. Once I get booted from OF with mac-boot into the 80Gig ATA every things seems normal. Except the front Panel on/off button remains brightly lit even after doing shut-down from OF or from the finder. It only goes out when I pull the power plug. Somehow that light has a short to a power source. Not having a schematic is a drag. Tomorrow I will try to remove the cover over the Light/Button and see what trouble I can get into. That lite/button is probably driven by a Logic Chip so I don't expect to see much. It would seem that whenever I apply power by plugging in the power cord the circuitry that expects to see the light off at this time sees it already lit thus corrupting the boot process. What ever normally happens between first ON button push and the final Bright Light when the Boot Process starts is probably not done so because of error the Boot goes directly to OF. Does that make sense? This was the situation before I removed peripherals. Some Keyboard commands are non responsive but not all. The Eudora specific key commands are all working. Given all the traffic on Snow Leopard maybe it's time I bite the bullet and find the best old Intel Mac I can afford. Plus a Line Conditioner. :-[ Thanks again, Ernie --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: boot problem after pwr outage
It would seem that whenever I apply power by plugging in the power cord the circuitry that expects to see the light off at this time sees it already lit thus corrupting the boot process. What ever normally happens between first ON button push and the final Bright Light when the Boot Process starts is probably not done so because of error the Boot goes directly to OF. Does that make sense? Auto Startup RAM Test? Have you tried reducing the internal hardware setup to a minimal status? Like only have 1 stick of RAM, and no PCI cards? and sort of start over, CUDA/PRAM Reset, rebuilding the hardware add-ons? Maybe then try to run AHT again? Thinking out loud ... Bill Connelly Hi Bill; The GigE is the only operating(?) OS X machine I have and I hesitate messing with hardware when there is an obvious hardware problem evident in the ON Button. At least I can email and search the Net for a replacement as it is now. I just leave it running 24/7 now as I consider alternatives. My knowledge of the detailed boot process is sketchy at best but I can imagine a possible scenario. Now when power is applied the first event is the long Horn sound followed by silence and then the Boot chime and Boot into OF. I take this to mean that the Horn indicates an error is detected. Normally by the time the ON button is fully Bright the Boot process has already affirmed the Selected Boot Volume but because the ON button is always on Bright the Boot Logic is confused. No Selected Boot Volume has been detected when it should have been Detected so an error is thrown and with nowhere else to go, it goes to OF. Apparently, logic has not indicated a lack of a Blessed volume so no blinking question mark. Any changes I make to select the Boot Volume or the Keyboard Selected alternate Boot schemes are never noticed by the Boot logic. As I say very sketchy. I am an Analog Hardware Design Type ,designed Transformers, low noise Circuit Boards Power Conversion Systems and ancient stuff like that, with a little work in programming Basic way back when.. After I get a Back-Up machine I will try your suggestions. Thank you, Ernie --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: boot problem after pwr outage
On Jun 9, 2009, at 3:42 PM, Ernest L. Gunerius wrote: I got as far as If it still boots onto OF after that, unplug every device but the keyboard mouse and monitor, if it STILL boots into OF try a known good keyboard and mouse. Now I have to borrow a known good USB Keyboard. Try it without any keyboard or mouse. You don't need them to boot, especially with no HD. And when you try the HD you can do it without the keyboard or mouse initially. If it boots up okay then try plugging them in. Hi Clark; Thanks for the reply. I did try without Keyboard or Mouse with no difference in action. Still boots to OF. Ernie --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
boot problem after pwr outage
computer: Dual 500 GigE, 2 gig ram, 250 Gig SATA, 80 Gig ATA. Had a power outage yesterday for about 2 hours with computer running idle while I was away from the computer. When power came back the computer restarted by itself into Open Firmware. I entered mac-boot and the computer booted from the 80 Gig ATA. The 250 Gig SATA had been selected for the Boot disk. I reset the Start-up in System Preferences to be the 250Gig and the computer rebooted into OF and when I entered mac-boot it booted into Open Firmware. Then I entered reset-nvram and at the ok I entered reset-all. Again it booted into Open Firmware. It rebooted into the 80 Gig I ran Disk Utility Verify on both hard drives and found no problems. I tried booting with Shift depressed still boots into OF. I installed AppleJack and tried to boot into Single User but again it booted into OF. Booting with Option depressed just Boots into OF. I put the Apple Hardware Test CD into the CD/DVD drive and rebooted with C depressed, No Joy. Still boots into Open Firmware. I am out of my depth. Can any one help me to fix what ever is wrong and get back to normal boot operation? ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: boot problem after pwr outage
Booting into Open Firmware should NEVER be taken as a good sign or something to be just gotten around. Try unplugging the SATA drive and see if it boots normally into the 80 gig drive. If it still goes to OF, remove the SATA card and see what happens. If it still boots onto OF after that, unplug every device but the keyboard mouse and monitor, if it STILL boots into OF try a known good keyboard and mouse. At that point if it still boots into OF, remove the PRAM battery, press the cuda switch and leave it for a half hour or so. Press the cuda switch once again and put the PRAM battery back in. now with just the keyboard/mouse/monitor attached try booting.it should go to the flashing question mark..if it does, start adding the devices in one at a time. If it STILL boots into OF at that point, get a new motherboard, hope what took it out didn't take down your video and SATA card as well... -- Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs Thank you Bruce. I got as far as If it still boots onto OF after that, unplug every device but the keyboard mouse and monitor, if it STILL boots into OF try a known good keyboard and mouse. Now I have to borrow a known good USB Keyboard. I should mention that the computer will not shut down or Start from the Keyboard or from the front panel ON button and when I shut down from the Finder I have to pull the Power Plug and re-insert to start, which it does on Plug In. Also when I shutdown from the Finder the front panel light stays bright until I pull the plug. Sounds as if some Hardware or control software is broken. Hopefully just corrupted. I can Restart with the Finder and with Cntrl-Cmd and Keyboard ON but not from the Front Panel Button. It was a cloudless day but sort of warm for Everett also it had been hot for three days previous. So I suppose a transformer overheated and the blew opening the Mag Current and sending a massive voltage Spike through the area. Old saying: there is not enough time or money to do it right so later you have to find the time or money to do it over. :-$ :-( Ernie --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: boot problem after pwr outage
How about CUDA reset, or removing the battery for awhile, and/or opt- cmd-P-R type of resetting PRAM? Bill Connelly artsite: http://mysite.verizon.net/moonstoneartstudio myspace: http://www.myspace.com/moonstoneartstudio Thank you Bill, I tried opt-cmd-P-R with no effect I have a CUDA reset on my list ( see Bruce's advice and my last lament) Ernie --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: boot problem after pwr outage
On Jun 9, 2009, at 3:17 PM, Ernest L. Gunerius wrote: Then I entered reset-nvram and at the ok I entered reset-all. Here's one long shot, try: set-defaults reset-all Another long shot would be a bad keyboard perhaps? (or USB problems) Kris; Thank you but set-defaults did not fix it. Ernie --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Can Camino bookmarks be exported into Safari 4?
I tried and failed to find a way with Safari 3. Thanks as always, Tony --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ Tony; Try exporting from Camino to Safari. Open Safari and Camino. In Camino Chose File/Export. Chose Safari in the Where Box and Safari in the Format Box. Click Export. Then shutdown and restart Safari. This works in Safari 4 and Camino 1.6.6 HTH, ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Can Camino bookmarks be exported into Safari 4?
Ernie, it grays out Safari -- whether it's running or not -- so I can't choose it in the Where box. No idea why. --Tony Camino 1.6.7 Safari 4 (which Software Update keeps trying to serve with the same 19 mb update over and over...?) 10.4.11 Hi Tony; Try this: From Camino export Bookmarks to Desktop. Use Safari to Import file from Desktop. HTH, ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Sending e-mail problem
On May 11, 12:17 pm, Bruce Johnson john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu wrote: ? I haven't the slightest idea of what they're talking about there. This is commoncly called the 'outgoing' or SMTP server. Perhaps someone with Eudora experience can tell you. What does Eudora say in the help files? Bruce Johnson Eudora help files??? what's that? I really should take the plunge and switch to Mail. But, of course, Eudora has a place for the SMTP server entry. Can one put in more than one? I wonder. Cliff Cliff; If you have the Eudora 6.2.4 Users Guide PDF, search it for Relay or look on page 64 where it will tell you that using the Relay feature you can send all your email through one(Primary ISP) Account(SMTP Relay). This feature is in Sponsored and Paid Mode only. The User guide should be in the Eudora Folder with the Quick Start Guide and New Features pdf. If you have a set of Personalities defined in the extra settings box you must set them into the Relay feature following the procedure given. HTH, ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Replacing PS fan Quicksilver
On Apr 24, 2009, at 11:33 PM, Ernest L. Gunerius wrote: On Apr 24, 2009, at 10:03 PM, Meghrouni Vince wrote: Does time unplugged diminish the voltage? What should I look for to avoid? I'm sure this may seem obvious, but it is not to me. I would suggest consulting an expert electrician ... and one that is familiar with computer power supplies. The computer repair centers sometimes will share info ... even the ones repairing those Windoze machines ... I think most power supply's function the same ... although there are different styles: http://www.atxpowersupplies.com/ Have you ever started plugging the power cord back into the back of the computer, with the other end in an active power strip or wall socket, and a NASTY spark jumps out to meet you? I believe that is the capacitor(s) discharging. I do not know if this is a way to do the deed or not ... I repeat, I do not know. Just more food for thought. Bill Connelly artsite: http://mysite.verizon.net/moonstoneartstudio myspace: http://www.myspace.com/moonstoneartstudio If you get a spark when plugging in a power supply that has been unplugged for at least 30 minutes it is most likely the charging current recharging the Power Supply Input capacitors. The only Impedance to input current to the discharged capacitors is the Input Filter(if present), The Rectifiers and the series resistance(very small) of the Input Capacitors. Thus the turned off and discharged Power Supply looks like a short circuit to the line voltage and the initial Inrush current can be quite large and also decays to a small value rapidly as the Voltage on the Input Capacitors rises. As the Power supply begins to switch and produce the output voltages(3.3 volt, 5 volt,12 Volt) then an extra pulse of current is drawn to charge all the capacitors on those voltages in the Power Supply and the rest of the Computer. This all happens quite fast, typically about 2 tenths of a second. The Power Supply cannot discharge back through the Power Line. The DC Voltage is isolated from the Line by the Rectifiers. HTH, ErnieG OIC. I thought it was discharging through Grounding. Possibly a fatal mistake ... See ... better to ask a Pro! Bill Connelly artsite: http://mysite.verizon.net/moonstoneartstudio myspace: http://www.myspace.com/moonstoneartstudio Hi Bill; Do not feel abashed, there are many mysteries in Switch Mode power supplies. They gave me many 100 hour work weeks, intense headaches, sleepless nights and good pay for 20 years. The advent of Wall Worts and Bench Bricks came about so that Equipment designers no longer had to fret and stew over International Regulations involving Safety Qualifications with attendant costs and Liabilities associated with the Switch Mode Power Supplies. The Green Wire(line grounding pin) is usually tied to Equipment(Chassis) ground. Circuit DC ground is tied usually at one spot to equipment ground. That takes care of Static potentials. Secondary(low voltage) Isolation is by the High Frequency Transformer. This is the expensive Componant to design since it must with hold a quite high DC voltage (at least during qualifying tests) with thick insulation while maintaining tight coupling. To each his own, ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Replacing PS fan Quicksilver
On Apr 25, 2009, at 4:49 AM, Ernest L. Gunerius wrote: Hi Bill; Do not feel abashed, there are many mysteries in Switch Mode power supplies. They gave me many 100 hour work weeks, intense headaches, sleepless nights and good pay for 20 years. The advent of Wall Worts and Bench Bricks came about so that Equipment designers no longer had to fret and stew over International Regulations involving Safety Qualifications with attendant costs and Liabilities associated with the Switch Mode Power Supplies. The Green Wire(line grounding pin) is usually tied to Equipment(Chassis) ground. Circuit DC ground is tied usually at one spot to equipment ground. That takes care of Static potentials. Secondary(low voltage) Isolation is by the High Frequency Transformer. This is the expensive Componant to design since it must with hold a quite high DC voltage (at least during qualifying tests) with thick insulation while maintaining tight coupling. To each his own, ErnieG So I'm guessing there's really no discharge method for a capacitor in a psu? Maybe that's what the original poster also wants. I'm sure the others as well as me, appreciate your expertise. I have an HP type psu that could use a fan (or 2 as I have learned with this thread) replaced, but we chose to buy a whole ps-unit and replaced that in his HP awhile ago ... mainly because of the uncertainty and danger of electric shock. My main concern is whether something like this can be solved for a professional amateur like myself (someone who successfully replaced a QS 2002 Dual 1GHz mobo, PCI cards, AGP video cards, completely disassembled/reassembled a Yikes! for cleaning, etc), and maybe others listening as well, over a forum discussion like this ... sort of borders on Don't Try This at Home kind of thing. I never disassembled the psu. Maybe overkill on the warnings (borderline pun intended). Bill Connelly artsite: http://mysite.verizon.net/moonstoneartstudio myspace: http://www.myspace.com/moonstoneartstudio Bill; Someone on this thread mentioned unplugging and letting the computer sit for at least 30 minutes or overnight would be better. The Capacitors should be discharged by then. I don't have a Power Supply out side of a Computer to look at. While similar, they are all different in any case. If you do not have experience with Electronic testing using Voltmeters to find dangerous terminals in Power Supplies I would suggest you not attempt any of these Fan replacements. If you are comfortable with the Instructions then you are on your own. The one Hack I looked at, where the Input and Output Air openings were cut to remove Grill work, seemed to me to make the Computer un-saleable since the Safety requirements were violated. Back in the day, 50 years ago, there was a test device known as The Finger which was an articulated replica the size and shape of a 10 year old's finger that was used, on new prototypes, to probe all openings to see if any dangerous live Voltage could be touched from the outside of the case. I would imagine today the finger should replicate a 4 year old finger. At age four I performed my first Electrical experiment which started the grey in my Mothers hair. I managed to blow a 30 Amp Screw in type fuse in the house service entrance along with copious smoke and a flash of light at my testing site. I did find the answer to my question though. As designed and as selected by the Computer Manufacture all components are Guaranteed to function. Some Computers are louder than others. If noise is troublesome that should be a before purchase decision. If the Fan has become inoperative some of the Electrolytic Capacitors could also be drying out and becoming leaky in which case a new Power Supply will be needed. HTH, ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Replacing PS fan Quicksilver
On Apr 24, 2009, at 10:03 PM, Meghrouni Vince wrote: Does time unplugged diminish the voltage? What should I look for to avoid? I'm sure this may seem obvious, but it is not to me. I would suggest consulting an expert electrician ... and one that is familiar with computer power supplies. The computer repair centers sometimes will share info ... even the ones repairing those Windoze machines ... I think most power supply's function the same ... although there are different styles: http://www.atxpowersupplies.com/ Have you ever started plugging the power cord back into the back of the computer, with the other end in an active power strip or wall socket, and a NASTY spark jumps out to meet you? I believe that is the capacitor(s) discharging. I do not know if this is a way to do the deed or not ... I repeat, I do not know. Just more food for thought. Bill Connelly artsite: http://mysite.verizon.net/moonstoneartstudio myspace: http://www.myspace.com/moonstoneartstudio If you get a spark when plugging in a power supply that has been unplugged for at least 30 minutes it is most likely the charging current recharging the Power Supply Input capacitors. The only Impedance to input current to the discharged capacitors is the Input Filter(if present), The Rectifiers and the series resistance(very small) of the Input Capacitors. Thus the turned off and discharged Power Supply looks like a short circuit to the line voltage and the initial Inrush current can be quite large and also decays to a small value rapidly as the Voltage on the Input Capacitors rises. As the Power supply begins to switch and produce the output voltages(3.3 volt, 5 volt,12 Volt) then an extra pulse of current is drawn to charge all the capacitors on those voltages in the Power Supply and the rest of the Computer. This all happens quite fast, typically about 2 tenths of a second. The Power Supply cannot discharge back through the Power Line. The DC Voltage is isolated from the Line by the Rectifiers. HTH, ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Erase a drive to sell
On Apr 4, 2009, at 3:02 PM, Ernest L. Gunerius wrote: I am assuming all HD cases are made of Ferrous material. They're not, they're typically made of machined aluminum; in fact the technology used to make hard drive cases lead to the technology used to make MacBook Air and now the MacBook cases, all start with a solid block of aluminum. Typically the only ferrous parts of a hard drive are the brackets the magnets are attached to. -- Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs In that case there is no shunting and the Flux between the Poles of the external magnet and the flux can penetrate more readily through the case of the Hd. ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: MailForge Re: What is the point of Mail.app??
I have been using Eudora for many years with OS 8, 9 and X. I have no complaints. Are other Eudora users on the List dissatisfied with the program? What are your complaints and why are you interested in replacing Eudora? Larry I have been using Eudora from Eudora 1.3.1 to 6.2.4 (all of which I have saved). I don't use IMAP and probably never will. I don't trust foreign storage. I also do not travel with a computer so have no need to access Email from different computers. I do not use Browser email. Eudora has always met my, admittedly, simple Email needs. Simple, no-hassle, Text format files that can be easily saved and copied. Easily filtered to different mailboxes. I don't know if the x-eudora-settings are still active but they did add many functions to the Menus. I am not a Luddite but am a retired Dinosaur with limited funds. ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Power supply tester
Hi Jeff, I have been in the electronic service business since 1954 in my judgment, you should buy a Volt-ohm-milliamp meter learn how to use it. It will be a lot more versatile. Regards Wm. --- On Tue, 3/17/09, MacGuy macgu...@gmail.com wrote: From: MacGuy macgu...@gmail.com Subject: Power supply tester To: g3-5-list@googlegroups.com Date: Tuesday, March 17, 2009, 9:29 PM Would this little guy work for Apple OEM power supplies? and if not, anybody seen one out there for macs? http://www.directron.com/pst03.html#caption Jeff Engle Kamiah Idaho 83536 Hi Jeff; I agree with Wm. I spent many years designing, building and testing power supplies. I have designed and built several power supply testers. Since the 1950's also. From a 12KW Supply for a Vacuum Tube Room Size Computer to small on PC Board single voltage supply to power one Dual in-line Logic chip. For general trouble-shooting a Volt-Ohm-Ammeter / Milliamp meter is the most economical approach. The device shown in the Web-Link seems to be only a Connector, Case and a switch to select which outputs to read. They do not say at what current load the power supply is tested; it is probably set to be just enough to ensure stable operation of an ATX Supply in good condition. If the Power Supply is tested installed. I don't see that as being switchable in the picture. If all you want to know is : Does it work? a Volt Ohm Meter is adequate since you would be testing with the Power Supple installed and loaded by the Computer circuity at the load for all outputs set at the normal for that Computer. In that case: Does the fan run or the Lights light? No one fixes computer power supplies and if they did a more complete line of Instruments would be needed. You would be looking at thousands of dollars. If you are testing a stand alone power supply you will need to know if it is spec'ed to run at no load on all outputs or if not you will need to know what loads on what outputs will guarantee proper operation. This applies to all some Switch Mode Topologies but not all. Linear supplies are another story. On stand alone's a variable AC Transformer might be helpful. You can gradually increase the input AC to avoid nasty smoke and exploding Capacitors. Spring Clips to Banana Plug test leads long enough to reach into the computer from the meter can help avoid slipping test prods that can really ruin your day. I hope this is not to confusing. It's past my bed time. HTH, ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Thermal grease?
On 14/3/09 02:32, Wallace Adrian D'Alessio fluxstrin...@gmail.com wrote: Overclockers who are set on defeating heat to preserve costly CPUs yet squeeze extreme clock counts out of them have been known to polish the CPU and heatsink with ever finer grades of wet or dry paper starting with 1000 grit. And even going to finer grits of polishing compound. Some may even lap : the surfaces together with a polishing compound. Then they apply the thermal paste after all of that. In theory the more closely the parts surfaces match and the thinner the paste needed to make up the difference the faster and therefore the more successful the heat transfer will be. Seems strange - the laws of physics would suggest that a coarse finish - rather than a polished surface - would provide a much greater surface area for a face to face contact - with the compound filling the pits in the coarse finish... Pete ~--~--~--- With a coarse finish the surfaces are held apart by the metal to metal contact at random spots and the interstices are filed with compound. The compound has a finite, even if small, Thermal resistance. The length of the path through the compound is defined by the roughness of the surfaces. The smoother the surface the smaller the interstices left by the metal to metal contact points. Thus the layer of Compound necessary to fill the interstices is thinner. It could be argued and possibly answered by experiment that there could be a surface condition in the range between a very rough finish and a finish that imposes a Casimir force that would give the minimum thermal resistance at a reasonable cost of Time, Money and Resources. I would imagine that the Engineers at the Heat sink, Thermal Paste, Processor and Computer Manufacturers have thoroughly investigated the situation. If they have followed good engineering practices they have experimented and found a workable solution within the Triple Constraint (Money, Resources, Time). The Over Clockers are the modern equivalent of the old Shade Tree Mechanics squeezing the last possible Horsepower/Torque out of a Flat Head Ford engine; as they work within their version of the Triple Constraint. If it works for them, Hurrah, ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Plastics Care
Leave it on there as a way to throw people off and change the password. On Thu, Jan 15, 2009 at 6:03 PM, Woody woodyl...@earthlink.net wrote: -Original Message- From: Alexander MacLeod twocor...@gmail.com Sent: Nov 27, 2008 12:55 PM To: g3-5-list@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: Plastics Care On Thu, Nov 27, 2008 at 11:56 AM, Amanda Ward amanda.w...@comcast.net wrote: I just got a monitor from Craig's list, for free. It's a 19 SGI, CRT. No, no not a Mac, but I'm using on my one of my Macs. What a beast... must be close to 50 pounds. Anyhow, some security conscious individual wrote the system root password on the front in black felt tip. Is there any way to remove this darned blemish or, at least fade it a bit? Thanks for any tips or advice! You may want to try a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser http://www.mrclean.com/en_US/products/eraser.shtml. They've handled everything I've thrown at them so far. Alex If you want a low cost, do it all, cleaner, try WD-40. It took scuff marks off my GigE. I have used it to remove Marker Pen from Plastic and Adhesive residue from Plastic. See:http://www.wd-40.com/ And for uses: http://www.wd-40.com/uses-tips/ Absolutely no harmful chemicals. No Carcinogens. Sold everywhere including Grocery stores and Auto stores. Also in many sizes from Pens and small spray cans to multi gallon cans. I have no connection to this product, just a satisfied user. HTH, ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Plastics Care
List-Id: g3-5-list.googlegroups.com Better yet, get some Dupont Non-Lithium Silicon spray (Lowes) which is the same thing as WD40 w/o the messy lithium. It simply disipates but leaves a teflon coating to protect. It's great for cleaning monitors for $4.00. That's odd. I have never noticed any messy lithium in WD-40. The WD-40 just evaporated from my GigE with no residue. And I have used it for years , since 1953, as a screw loosener and minor lubricator without any mess. Read: http://www.wd-40.com/faqs/#q7 The can says: Contains Petroleum Distillates' ErnieG On Fri, Jan 16, 2009 at 11:48 AM, Ernest L. Gunerius er...@verizon.net wrote: Leave it on there as a way to throw people off and change the password. On Thu, Jan 15, 2009 at 6:03 PM, Woody woodyl...@earthlink.net wrote: -Original Message- From: Alexander MacLeod twocor...@gmail.com Sent: Nov 27, 2008 12:55 PM To: g3-5-list@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: Plastics Care On Thu, Nov 27, 2008 at 11:56 AM, Amanda Ward amanda.w...@comcast.net wrote: I just got a monitor from Craig's list, for free. It's a 19 SGI, CRT. No, no not a Mac, but I'm using on my one of my Macs. What a beast... must be close to 50 pounds. Anyhow, some security conscious individual wrote the system root password on the front in black felt tip. Is there any way to remove this darned blemish or, at least fade it a bit? Thanks for any tips or advice! You may want to try a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser http://www.mrclean.com/en_US/products/eraser.shtml. They've handled everything I've thrown at them so far. Alex If you want a low cost, do it all, cleaner, try WD-40. It took scuff marks off my GigE. I have used it to remove Marker Pen from Plastic and Adhesive residue from Plastic. See:http://www.wd-40.com/ And for uses: http://www.wd-40.com/uses-tips/ Absolutely no harmful chemicals. No Carcinogens. Sold everywhere including Grocery stores and Auto stores. Also in many sizes from Pens and small spray cans to multi gallon cans. I have no connection to this product, just a satisfied user. HTH, ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Plastics Care
On Jan 16, 2009, at 1:03 PM, Ernest L. Gunerius wrote: That's odd. I have never noticed any messy lithium in WD-40. The WD-40 just evaporated from my GigE with no residue. And I have used it for years , since 1953, as a screw loosener and minor lubricator without any mess. According to the MSDS, WD-40 is a kerosene-like mixture of light hydrocarbons called Stoddard Solvent, propellant (which used to be isopropane but now is CO2) and light mineral oil (like 3-in-One). If not wiped off, there should have been a film of oil left. No lithium. -- Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs Thanks for the info and reference. For the GigE I sprayed WD-40 on a paper towel and rubbed the smudge away. Then used the dry area of the towel to wipe the area for a finish clean-up. There were many large black areas on the Apple side of the case. The oil residue, if any is left, is not noticeable. ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Plastics Care
On Fri, Jan 16, 2009 at 1:48 PM, Ernest L. Gunerius er...@verizon.net wrote: Leave it on there as a way to throw people off and change the password. On Thu, Jan 15, 2009 at 6:03 PM, Woody woodyl...@earthlink.net wrote: -Original Message- From: Alexander MacLeod twocor...@gmail.com Sent: Nov 27, 2008 12:55 PM To: g3-5-list@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: Plastics Care On Thu, Nov 27, 2008 at 11:56 AM, Amanda Ward amanda.w...@comcast.net wrote: I just got a monitor from Craig's list, for free. It's a 19 SGI, CRT. No, no not a Mac, but I'm using on my one of my Macs. What a beast... must be close to 50 pounds. Anyhow, some security conscious individual wrote the system root password on the front in black felt tip. Is there any way to remove this darned blemish or, at least fade it a bit? Thanks for any tips or advice! You may want to try a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser http://www.mrclean.com/en_US/products/eraser.shtml. They've handled everything I've thrown at them so far. Alex If you want a low cost, do it all, cleaner, try WD-40. It took scuff marks off my GigE. I have used it to remove Marker Pen from Plastic and Adhesive residue from Plastic. See:http://www.wd-40.com/ And for uses: http://www.wd-40.com/uses-tips/ Absolutely no harmful chemicals. No Carcinogens. __ First used to protect the skin of Atlas misslies? Cool ! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wd-40 Article says the residue can attract dust. I once had an impoverished friend who used it on his Royal Enfield motorcycle and his elbow as linement! I have also known some who used it as hand cleaner. But skin contact is discouraged by the maker. I prefer to start with isopropyl alcohol to clean computers but have used WD-40 to clean electrical contacts in a pinch. As I said in another post I wiped the excess on the GigE and have never noticed any dust. The WD-40.com /uses-tips/ web page points to 2000 uses. I have seen it used to dry wet Spark Plug wires and in a pinch it can be sprayed around vacuum lines in the Auto engine Compartment to check for leaks. I have used it to remove Roofing Compound from hands and tools. ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Setting up External Firewire Drive for CCC
At 9:45 PM -0800 1/8/2009, Ernest L. Gunerius wrote: When I finally recovered from my monster crash of Dec 17and after an Write all zeros Erase I then installed 10.4.11 on my 250 Gig and partitioned my 500 Gig to 420 and 80 then realizing that the 500 Gig may have had physical problems I did a Write all Zeros erase on the 420 and 80. That gave me a 420 Gig and a 45 Gig. Many bad sectors on the 80 gig. bzzzt. Replace that drive. Loosing a few KILOBYTES to bad sectors happens, over the life span of a drive. Loosing GIGABYTES *gak* Thirty five GIG! *choke* That drive is brick, waiting to become. When I run MacJanitor on the 250 Gig and then Increment the other Volumes does the Clean-up on the 250 get properly transferred to the other volumes? Yes, but in your particular case, I wouldn't trust that backup on that drive. - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth Thanks Dan, *Gak* indeed, I am gambling for a few weeks until the funds open up. I will get at least a new 500 Gig maybe two drives one 250 internal and a 500 Gig Firewire external after the Power Company gets their chunk. I choked when I saw what was left of the 80 Gig but wanted to comment on the simplicity of the SuperDuper back-Up. I was surprised that it actually worked at all after hearing the Clicking from inside the Computer. I did not know which drive was bad so just Nuked all of them to see what I got. The Data was already gone. ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Setting up External Firewire Drive for CCC
On Jan 8, 2009, at 3:37 PM, nestamicky wrote: Al Poulin wrote: I want to use a 1TB external Firewire hard drive initialized in Apple Partition Map to make bootable clones of a PPC G4 iBook and two or three Intel Macs. Each source machine will have its own partition on the FW drive. I plan to use Incremental backup for File level copying. Your project here is perhaps the best yet use of larger harddrives I've seen in a short while. Most of us do file servers, but your idea hear to have bootable partitions of all your systems on an external HD is great, as it will save you so much time when something goes wrong. My question, and maybe Dan would pitch in, do size of the partition on the machine and that on the external drive have to be the exact same? Not DAN, but my opinion anyway, The partitions need to be big enough to hold the amount of data involved. I.E. A BOOT partition, has to include vacant space to be 'run- able' !!! A copy (clone) if you are not going to BOOT --- THAT partition, doesn't need to include that space. BUT, to check that things took properly, and so that you CAN operationally boot the 'clone', you will need to have that 'space' (less than 10% available 'empty space', leads to operational problems. [Don't ask how I know]) So, my recommendation --- pick a partition size to accommodate your operating OS, and partition accordingly. To restore files, CCC documentation says in several places: Note that you cannot select the boot drive as the target, you will need to boot from another drive if you need to restore directly to your boot drive. Another reason for having more than the absolute minimum space available when 'cloning'. To restore, boot the 'clone copy', and clone THAT back to your original location (or wherever else you might want it.) Does this mean that I simply boot from the clone on the partition of the FW drive and launch CCC on that partition, or must I boot from a third volume? Is there any utility in having a separate, bootable universal volume on my FW drive with its own copy of CCC? If you 'cloned' your OS partition, doesn't it include your copy of CCC? It should, and when you boot that 'cloned copy' it will have CCC right ready there to use. [Just like you planned it!!! ;-)] Note Apple's Article HT2595. If so, then when Snow Leopard comes to my Intel Macs, that volume is not longer universal, right? I foresee moving the FW drive from Mac to Mac and room to room to keep bootable clone backups up to date. Looking at CCC documentation for backing up to another Macintosh on your network, it appears that this method cannot maintain a bootable clone, since the context deals with selected data to a folder. Correct? That may be a problem, doing 'incremental' updates to the 'cloned' copy. [I think it SHOULD work.] I always just do a 'full' clone. [Also I us SuperDuper! but the overall intention is the same.] Chuck D. Thank you, Al Poulin When I finally recovered from my monster crash of Dec 17and after an Write all zeros Erase I then installed 10.4.11 on my 250 Gig and partitioned my 500 Gig to 420 and 80 then realizing that the 500 Gig may have had physical problems I did a Write all Zeros erase on the 420 and 80. That gave me a 420 Gig and a 45 Gig. Many bad sectors on the 80 gig. I probably should have Nuked the whole 500 Gig and then partitioned but by then I was out of patience. Then I used used SuperDuper to do an incremental back-up on the 420 Gig and 45 Gig. I figured from what the SuperDuper notes said that it would up-date all that was different on the Target. Since there was nothing on the the Target I thought that would mean everything on the 250 Gig would be moved to the Partitions. Also Part of the instructions on SuperDuper says leave the Target Bootable after an Incremental Up-Date. When finished I had two Bootable partitions that were clones of the 250 Gig drive. Now I run MacJanitor on the 250Gig and incrementally back the partitions up nightly. It takes about six minutes for about 9.25 Gig's with my Dual 500 GigE to increment each partition. I do have a question though. When I run MacJanitor on the 250 Gig and then Increment the other Volumes does the Clean-up on the 250 get properly transferred to the other volumes? I do leave them booted all night in hope that the Cron tasks will clean them. But not too sure about all that. HTH, ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
Re: mds 99%
At 7:21 PM -0800 12/20/2008, Ernest L. Gunerius wrote: Snip: Does the: sudo mdutil -i off /Volumes/* sudo mdutil -E /Volumes/* sudo mdutil -i on /Volumes/* fix the Un-mountable Volumes? No. Those commands only deal with the Spotlight indices on functioning mounted volumes. Snip: Sometimes Spotlight gets a death grip on a volume. Very annoying. Do the mdutil -i off command to disable the indexing. Then try Disk Utility. If it still has problems, then try booting into Safe Mode (shift key held down) to run Disk Utility, or boot from your OS X DVD... HTH, - Dan. - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ Thank you Dan, Success! The response to all of the above suggestions was: Terminal commands: Admins-Computer:~ Admin$ sudo mdutil -i off /Volumes/* Password: /Volumes/250GigSATA: Could not set indexing status for volume. /Volumes/424GSATA: Could not set indexing status for volume. /Volumes/Kingston1GMac: Could not set indexing status for volume. /Volumes/Saved10.4.11: Could not set indexing status for volume. Admins-Computer:~ Admin$ Booting with Shift Key down: Passed POST ( got Chime) Spinning gear completed. Grow Bar competed. Desk Top came up and immediately after, the computer shut down. Booted from a OS 10.3.9 Disk and ran Desk Utility. I don't have a bootable 10.4 DVD. Disk utility reported the 250G Repaired . the 424G Volume was not completely Repaired. Saved10.4.11 was reported as Repaired. Booted from Saved10.4.11 and everything was still in error. Indexing still taking 98% CPU. the other two Volumes still won't un mount when running DU in 10.4.11. I continued using the computer for about 3 hours. At this point (4AM), I Shutdown. I think I shutdown, at least I meant to shutdown but today when I booted I was asked to Log In, which I did as Admin. I may have clicked on the bottom choice of Log Out instead of Shutdown Checked Activity Monitor and it was running 5-9% with nothing else running. Ran DU and the two Volumes un mounted and mounted and all Verified. Now I can get a 10.4 Install DVD and a large external FW HD. Thank you again, ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
mds 99%
A process named mds running at Root is taking 99% of the CPU on my Dual 500 GigE. This is my fault for not running AHT immediately after my System Crashed a week ago. The crash consisted of the monitor going dark and on restart the monitor flashed briefly as the System. booted. This happened for about four restarts and then stayed dark. On the few flashes the screen displayed White Text on Black screen. on the final flash a Black worm shaped area was seen near the center of the Hyundai B90A 19 inch LCD. The flashes lasted only a few seconds. Thinking Bad Monitor I went to Staples and found a bargain on a ACER 22 inch LCD and then the trouble really began with many KP's and very slow response from Safari 3 and Camino 1.5. I tried to do a SuperDuper BU to my other drive but that failed. To keep this short all I tried has resulted in my having lost most of my saved recent Email and all of my acquired Applications. I have two SATA drives in the GigE a 500G partitioned 80G and 420G and a 250G. The 250G was my Boot Drive with a SuperDuper clone of the 250G on on the 420G Volume. The 80G had OS9.2.2 on it. Now I have OS10.4.11 on the 80G and the other two volumes have been erased However, with no Apps running, Activity Monitor shows that a process named mds is running at Root and is taking 99% of the CPU. Causing both Safari and Camino to panic whenever I try to use them. Eudora seems to be running fine. This is after I ran AHT and found a bad 128M Ram card which I removed. Before found and removed the bad stick I managed to corrupt all systems and lost my stuff by Booting from all available Systems. None of the stuff was critical and recovery of which will give me time to ponder the ill spent days just past. Hopefully to my betterment. My immediate problem is the mds Process using all the CPU and the curious fact that Disk Utility will neither Test, Repair or erase the 250G or the 420G drives and reports they cannot be Unmounted. I have Shut down and restarted several time with no change in that report. I checked Terminal for (man mds) and (man unmount) and was told they do not exist in man files. Can some one tell me how to get out of this mess? I would like to start over with clean OS10.4.11 Systems. And I will get at least one External large HD for Xmas. A day I hope you all enjoy. ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: mds 99%
Ernest L. Gunerius wrote: A process named mds running at Root is taking 99% of the CPU on my Dual 500 GigE. This is my fault for not running AHT immediately after my System Crashed a week ago. Clip: My immediate problem is the mds Process using all the CPU and the curious fact that Disk Utility will neither Test, Repair or erase the 250G or the 420G drives and reports they cannot be Unmounted. I have Shut down and restarted several time with no change in that report. Clip Can some one tell me how to get out of this mess? I would like to start over with clean OS10.4.11 Systems. And I will get at least one External large HD for Xmas. A day I hope you all enjoy. ErnieG mds is Spotlight indexing your drive(s). Leave it for an hour or so, and it should finish. Can't remember offhand where the Spotlight index is to be found, but if it's corrupt (not unknown) no doubt a real guru will reply telling you. You can stop it by dragging your drive(s) to the privacy section (dont index) of the Spotlight control panel in System Preferences - but that will stop searches. Thanks Ted; It ran for 3 or 4 hours then I shut down over night and today it is still indexing(?). I tried dragging the drives to the Spotlight Panel , both the Icon in System Preferences and the open panel with no effect. The Drive Icons just snapped back to original positions. I will re-download Onyx and run some scripts. ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: mds 99%
On Dec 20, 2008, at 3:16 AM, Ernest L. Gunerius wrote: A process named mds running at Root is taking 99% of the CPU on my Dual 500 GigE. I believe that is related to Spotlight. It will stop after awhile. Can't help you with the other ... going to bed ... good luck tomorrow? Bill Connelly artsite: http://mysite.verizon.net/moonstoneartstudio myspace: http://www.myspace.com/moonstoneartstudio Thanks Bill: As I told Ted It ran for 3 or 4 hours then I shut down over night and today it is still indexing(?). I will leave it running and see. I will run Onyx and see if it fixes the Hd's. ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: mds 99%
At 12:16 AM -0800 12/20/2008, Ernest L. Gunerius wrote: Dual 500 GigE. OS10.4.11 A process named mds running at Root is taking 99% of the CPU That's Spotlight, running from the root account. From your description, most likely the Spotlight index on one or more of your disk volumes has been corrupted. If Spotlight finishes in a few hours - then all's good. If it doesn't, then you need to turn off indexing, erase the indices, then turn indexing back on -- and let it run until it's finished. Note that Spotlight's indexing process, in Tiger, is a bit buggy. It corrupts things if the indexing process is interrupted. So DO NOT shutdown or sleep. It's ok to use the machine while it's running, just don't shutdown or sleep until it's done. From your administrator account, issue these three commands from Terminal: sudo mdutil -i off /Volumes/* sudo mdutil -E /Volumes/* sudo mdutil -i on /Volumes/* They must be done exactly as-is - they are case sensitive. Once that's done, let your system run - DO NOT shut it down or let it sleep until the mds and mdutil processes do their thing, then go back to being idle. HTH, - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth Thank you Dan, I am not sure how: If it doesn't, then you need to turn off indexing, erase the indices, then turn indexing back on -- and let it run until it's finished. , is accomplished. I see no options for locating much less manipulating the Indices. I have always, since moving to OSX, selected MacOS Extended (Not Journaled) and never use Spotlight. I find Cmd F to be good enough. Someone on this list recommended that a few years ago. I don't know how it all ties in. Just habit from classic. Is Cmd F still Sherlock? Or does it just access Spotlight. This time, in the confusion I formatted the 80G partition as the default Mac OS Extended (Journaled). Does the: sudo mdutil -i off /Volumes/* sudo mdutil -E /Volumes/* sudo mdutil -i on /Volumes/* fix the Un-mountable Volumes? ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: USB modem speed
At 7:38 PM -0800 11/19/2008, Ernest L. Gunerius wrote: One limitation I have not seen mentioned recently is the practice of some TelComs of doubling their subscribers in remote rural areas by Pair Gaining the existing Copper Pairs that service the remote areas. Nasty practice. Not compatible with V.92 either, as I recall, because of the extra a/d conversions, so the modem has to fall back to the older standards. Apple at one time had a small app for download that would allow the user to easily modify the Phone Script. The scripts are plain text; no special app was ever required. - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth I dimly recall that the Apple App had a mini-tutorial and User guide that explained the Hayes Modem Scripts and the effect of various combinations of the commands in plain English. That made it easy for the novice to Modem Scripting to achieve their goals. The actual script writing was reduced to a few key strokes. Admittedly the scripts were not optimum but when faced with new terminology and deplorable references with personal ignorance any help is thankfully received. Once the initial hurdles were past I never used the Apple Pgm again. ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: USB modem speed
At 8:30 AM -0600 11/19/2008, lampbay wrote: I've been using the Apple USB modems with a slow dialup line and the best I get is 26400 - usually 24000. Ok. So your initial carrier speed is low. But then to what speed does it later retrain? IF the usable carrier remains that slow, over a V.90 dial-up, then you have telephone line noise problems. You should fix that. With all the money the government is printing for investment firms, banks, insurance companies and maybe auto manufacturers, why don't they provide fiber optic delivery of HDTV, telephone, radio and Internet service to every home? If you can get xDSL over 200 Kbps then it's already done. (200 Kbps is the FCC's baseline criteria for broadband. Yes, it's so low it's made us a world-wide joke.) Besides getting basic phone services to most rural areas, that's what the Universal Services Fund did. Of course, that massive fund has now been dumped into the general fund, so it vanished in a puff of national debt. These days, it's being used to wire schools. - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth One limitation I have not seen mentioned recently is the practice of some TelComs of doubling their subscribers in remote rural areas by Pair Gaining the existing Copper Pairs that service the remote areas. In my former home in Central California, 35 miles of cable from the nearest CO, the TelCom pair gained the existing T-1 effectively making 2X T-1 out of the existing T-1. In the process they reduced the 56K internet service to 24K. The Pair Gain is accomplished by time sharing the incoming T-1 line to provide 2 out going lines. This requires A-D conversion that reduces the available Bandwidth for the two outgoing lines. When I complained they just said they only guaranteed noise free Voice communication. The service was clamped at 24K during most hours of the day. I could achieve download speeds of near 1000K for the first few seconds until the clamp was activated. This was most noticeable at around 3 AM when the other, about 100 phones, more normal people were sleeping. I did find out that Twisted Pair Copper would support 1000K downloads when there was no repeaters or shunts in the phone line run and if the the line was quiet. That 1000K was as reported by the Test site. I used iCab set to not display Images to download a 1+M Image of a Sea Turtle. The site then calculated the Time to complete the download. It would seem the Modem must have had a large Buffer. Apple at one time had a small app for download that would allow the user to easily modify the Phone Script. I played with it in a vain attempt to increase my download speed before I discovered the Pair Gain dodge the TelCom was using. I used an External Modem given to me by a PC friend that claimed it had some special computer inside the box. I think I still have all that stuff amongst my treasures. As I recall it was marked as a 33.6K Modem but in reality, when properly scripted, it had no limit I ever found. I was using an Umax S-900 233M Mac OS 8.1, 9.1 and 9.2.2 What a difference a DSL line makes and MacX. ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Help! I Wanna Crack A Lacie FW CDRW Case
Update: The Case appears to be 100% plastic upon taking another look at it. Someone just advised to 'check under the feet' and that didn't bear fruit. My assessment -revised- is that the case is constructed of a 5 sided box with openings at front and rear for firewire jacks and the drive door area respectively. The bottom plate looks to be a snap in affair at the ends, but the side seams are damn near perfect and I wonder if they're glued in. I mis-remembered it being a metal box. Dang thing annoys me. To tell the truth, seeing flying shards would be pretty satisfying! Richard On Nov 6, 5:54 pm, aussieshepsrock [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: This is pretty straight forward. I have a Lacie FireWire CDRW Case I'd like to Open Up, but I can't figure out how to do it without breaking parts or pieces of the housing. Shattering Shards Sliding through the Ether isn't something I'm neccessarily opposed to, but if I can avoid Richard; What is the Model Number so we can get a look at it. ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Help! I Wanna Crack A Lacie FW CDRW Case
Hi Ernest... It has no 'manufacturers data plate' as one might expect one to look like. There is a tiny sticker over the firewire ports ...very tiny... with a number string on it, but I have no idea whether it's a serial number or not. That number is: 890311121069C514 and there really is an empty space between the C and 514. It's a nice looking unit and has been problem free as a cd burner in the couple of years I've owned it. It would be much nicer to use it as a case for my dvd burner or as a HD case. Richard On Nov 6, 8:04 pm, Ernest L. Gunerius [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Update: The Case appears to be 100% plastic upon taking another look at it. Someone just advised to 'check under the feet' and that didn't bear fruit. My assessment -revised- is that the case is constructed of a 5 sided box with openings at front and rear for firewire jacks and the drive door area respectively. The bottom plate looks to be a snap in affair at the ends, but the side seams are damn near perfect and I wonder if they're glued in. I mis-remembered it being a metal box. Dang thing annoys me. To tell the truth, seeing flying shards would be pretty satisfying! Richard On Nov 6, 5:54 pm, aussieshepsrock [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: This is pretty straight forward. I have a Lacie FireWire CDRW Case I'd like to Open Up, but I can't figure out how to do it without breaking parts or pieces of the housing. Shattering Shards Sliding through the Ether isn't something I'm neccessarily opposed to, but if I can avoid Richard; What is the Model Number so we can get a look at it. ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ It is probably no longer on the LaCie web pages if it is a few years old so all I can think of is that I have seen some of these mystery cases that required depressing the correct spot and sliding panels. That requires the box in hand and some Mfg's info or luck. I assume there are no obvious fasteners. so it is probably snap together either sliding panels or depress and lift. If you only care about Function a Hack-Saw always works. (bitter smile) Good luck --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: When did this happen?
On Oct 18, 2008, at 10:01 , Doug Burton wrote: Turns out I did have one installed on the DA running 10.4.11, my network laser printer. I just printed a message from Mail and the icon popped into the dock with a piece of paper in front of it. When the item had been printed the entire icon went away, as it should. Doesn't work that way in Leopard. I just get an icon of the printer, no paper in front of it, and the icon remains until I manually close it. Seems like a step backwards to me. Just a message from Doug... Yup, same here. I printed an email Saturday morning before heading out for some errands... the little printer icon is still there. As you say, not a huge thing, but a little annoying. Amanda I am running 10.4.11 in my GigE and the Printer Icon remains in the Dock after Printing. As I dimly recall I first put it there and told it to remain because occasionally and especially when printing from Virtual PC the printer will fail to print from my OneTouch program but the print job is put in Que so that when I finally get OneTouch to behave and I tell it to print a report I get two reports printed and waste ten sheets. I set the Printer Icon to remain so that I could readily check the Que before requesting a printing. ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Quick References for Cleaning G4 Acrylic Cases
Any quick hints on getting glue / tape-guck off the clear acrylic G4 cases? Mineral Spirits ok? I know acetone is not ok. Thanks Bill Connelly artsite: http://mysite.verizon.net/moonstoneartstudiohttp://mysite.verizon.net/moonstoneartstudio myspace: http://www.myspace.com/moonstoneartstudiohttp://www.myspace.com/moonstoneartstudio I used WD-40 with great results on my GigE. Google WD-40 and read the history of this Magic Stuff as a cleaner. ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Dashboard call home
At 12:33 AM -0700 9/16/2008, Ernest L. Gunerius wrote: I would actually like to disable Dashboard and all the Widgets if I knew how and knew enough about the consequences of that action.. Snip: http://www.titanium.free.fr/pgs/english.html (Make sure you download the one appropriate for your version OS) Snip: OnyX and Deeper are great free utilities. They let you tweak a lot of the Mac's GUI. Very handy. They're actually big scripts, so if they seem slow just be patient. If you don't understand a function, ask. I know the documentation is a bit sparse. - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth Thank you Dan; I will try to get up to speed on OnyX. ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Dashboard call home
I personally see no reason not to let Dashboard call Apple. It is needed for some of the apps to update the info. I 'fixed' this easily. In the Little Snitch screen that comes up switch the boxes to allow this and click on forever . You will now rarely get this message and the apps will get the needed info to update . Updating software in the future can change this setting and you then will need to reset the message. Hope this helps. Will S On Sep 9, 3:52 pm, Ernest L. Gunerius [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have Little Snitch running all the time which allerts me when spam tries to home. And that is fine. But Dashboard annoyingly and at seemingly random times tries to call Apple which triggers Little Snitch to interrupt everything I am doing to alert me. The Little Snitch warning says: * dashboardadvisorydwants to connect towww.apple.comon TCP port 80 (http) Showing Details I see: IP address: 17.112.152.32 The Reverse DNS Name is: eg-www.apple.com Established by: /system/Library/CoreServices/Dock.app/Contents/Resources/dashboardadvisoryd. Process ID 1907 It wants to call:www.apple.com Port 80 TCP (http) Can I safely disable this feature in Dashboard and how would I do this. Or is there some other way I can avoid being interrupted and still use Little Snitch to full advantage. ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ Thank you Will, Sometimes my paranoia gets the best of me. I'll do as you say. The first week I turned on Little Snitch it caught many sp*m emails since then sp*m has been reduced to maybe 6 per day. I have been surprised at how many of the Lists and sites I visit to want to call back to as many as 3 and 4 sites unannounced except for LS. ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: SATA cards was Re: Hard drive recommendations
On Sep 4, 2008, at 1:13 PM, diane wrote: I would go with PCI-E, more particularly the Silicon Image 3132 chip set. I can't do that in a G4 FW800 though, can I? For those who are stuck with PCI (not PCI-E) there is the Sil 3512 chipset PCI card. I have no experience with it, but the PCI-E 3132 has been great, and if the 3512 is just good, that would be fine with me. The Initio-based PCI cards have been OK on G4s, but I know they won't work on Intel Macs with PCI slots. The Initio-based cards are 1.5 MB/s; the Si I-based cards are 3.0 MB/s. The drives will automatically negotiate the speed. I purchased the: FirmTek SeriTek/1V4 PCI-X to SATA Controller - 4 Port Internal. (Not for Dual Core G5 systems). 2yr FirmTek Warranty. (FTKSATA1V4) from OWC. The Info on the card says it is backward compatible to older Machines as well as forward to some G5's which is fine with me on my Dual 500Mhz Gigabit G4. It works great for my limited requirements and is movable to whatever I am likely to get in the immediate future. Check it out for suitability at: http://eshop.macsales.com/MyOWC/Models.cfm?TI=2314 http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Firmtek/SATA1V4/ ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
