[Gimp-user] Reading Nikon raw (NEF) files?

2006-01-16 Thread Simon Roberts
Hi all,

Can The GIMP read the raw format from a Nikon D50 camera? I believe the
format extension is .nef, but I can't try this out as I don't have the
camera yet. I don't see this on the list of file types in the open
dialog. Do I need a plugin (if so where do I find it) or am I out of
luck?

Thanks in advance,
Simon


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Re: [Gimp-user] Reading Nikon raw (NEF) files?

2006-01-16 Thread Simon Roberts


--- Patrick Shanahan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Can The GIMP read the raw format from a Nikon D50 camera?
...
 ufraw is *very* good
 
   http://ufraw.sf.net
   
 Patrick ShanahanRegistered Linux User #207535

Awesome, many thanks!

Cheers,
Simon


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Re: [Gimp-user] text bending

2006-01-18 Thread Simon Roberts

--- Vytautas Povilaitis [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Is there a way to bend lines of text or just stripes in GIMP? I need
 to  
 make text go around a circle.

I'm a newbie with the GIMP, but you can do that in OpenOffice Draw
which is more of a design and create type tool, while the GIMP seems
to me to be more about retouching, curve correction, and the like.

HTH
Cheers,
Simon


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[Gimp-user] 2.4 schedule estimate?

2006-01-18 Thread Simon Roberts
Having written some software in the past, I know this is an unfair
question, but I'm interested in the color management that's slated for
2.4. Can anyone point me at a time (rough waving damp fingers in the
air) estimate for when that might be released?

Alternatively and also, anyone using the 2.3 version (described as
unstable) which is available? Is it reasonable to try to use that? Does
the color management part of it work? And is the CM part likely to
remain constant, or is it subject to total rewrite, rendering my
learning and calibrations/profiling wasted?

TIA
Simon


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Re: [Gimp-user] 2.4 schedule estimate?

2006-01-18 Thread Simon Roberts
Apologies for mis-directing the post. I didn't think that through very
well :( I'll sign up and lurk on the devel list to keep track of
progress.

And thanks for the advice, meanwhile I guess I'll try the development
version on the strength of your remarks :)

Merci beaucoup,
Sante!
Simon

--- Dave Neary [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 Hi Simon,
 
 Selon Simon Roberts [EMAIL PROTECTED]:
 
  Having written some software in the past, I know this is an unfair
  question, but I'm interested in the color management that's slated
 for
  2.4. Can anyone point me at a time (rough waving damp fingers in
 the
  air) estimate for when that might be released?
 
 gimp-developer is a more appropriate forum for the question (although
 I hope
 that everyone there is also here). I haven't been involved in GIMP
 development
 for a while now, so I can't really tell.
 
  Alternatively and also, anyone using the 2.3 version (described as
  unstable) which is available? Is it reasonable to try to use that?
 
 I would say yes. It's not feature frozen, but it's already quite
 usable.
 
  Does
  the color management part of it work? And is the CM part likely to
  remain constant, or is it subject to total rewrite, rendering my
  learning and calibrations/profiling wasted?
 
 It's pretty much finished, as far as I know.
 
 Cheers,
 Dave.
 
 --
 Dave Neary
 Lyon, France
 


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Re: [Gimp-user] text bending

2006-01-18 Thread Simon Roberts

--- Carol Spears [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  I'm a newbie with the GIMP, but you can do that in OpenOffice Draw
  which is more of a design and create type tool
...
 interesting.  i would like to know if Vytautas Povilaitis had open
 office installed and i would also like to know what other graphics
 this
 office software can draw.  it is nice to have volunteers from the
 other
 apps show up to point out their software here, we don't get near
 enough
 of it.

OOo Draw has capabilities/approach broadly comparable to Adobe
Illustrator, and as such might be considered complimentary (it's
certainly not competitive!) with the GIMP. It does vector drawing,
scalable stuff, layout, text, shapes, 3D, and that kind of thing. I
used the two together, for example to create Christmas cards. GIMP took
my photos, cleaned them up, removed background and trees growing out of
heads, while the layout as a card, with pretty text curving round,
borders, and stuff like that was done after importing the GIMP output
into Draw.

There are some really cool tricks, like taking a font, and turning it
into a 3D shape with depth, rotating it to produce solids and other
freakish things. I can't say I've found a use for them yet, but they're
intriguing all the same :)

See openoffice.org, getopenoffice.org (and probably a bunch of others I
don't know about).

Cheers,
Simon



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[Gimp-user] Fill transparent?

2006-03-10 Thread Simon Roberts
Hi All,

I'm really sorry this is probably a dumb/rtfm type question but I guess
I don't know enough to know what to look for.

I simply want to make a selection transparent. I can make the selection
OK, but when I click the little red eraser thingy (for which the
tooltip says Erase to background or transparency I can't make it make
the selection transparent no matter what I try.

Can anyone tell me what I should be doing please?

Many thanks,
Simon


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Re: [Gimp-user] Re: Fill transparent?

2006-03-10 Thread Simon Roberts


--- Olivier Ripoll [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Simon Roberts wrote:
...
  I simply want to make a selection transparent.
...
 Try Layer-Transparency-Add alpha channel.
 And then just cut your selection (ctrl-X).

Oh, wow, that's easy. I guess I really just didn't know where to begin.

Many thanks :)
Simon


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Re: [Gimp-user] RAW support

2006-03-23 Thread Simon Roberts
--- Rhys Sage [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Is it likely that the GIMP will ever support RAW
 images such as those from my XT?

It already does, via plugins. There are several, I use ufraw, which
works and integrates with GIMP just great.

Cheers,
Simon

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[Gimp-user] Help with batch printing please?

2006-04-16 Thread Simon Roberts
Hi All,

I'd like to be able to have gimp print something from a command line,
so I can use it in a batch job.

Well, to back up a little, I guess what I want is to be able to print
high quality graphics from a command-line but so far, the only thing I
have that I'm aware of that does this on my Epson R200 printer is the
GIMP.

What I'm trying to do is create a script to do it, but the docs seem a
little thin (maybe I'm missing something). Anyway, I found something
about script-fu, and tried to work from that. What I have doesn't work,
and I don't seem to be able to find useful error messages (the console,
after it fails, doesn't say anything helpful).

So, if anyone can suggest any or all of: 1) how do I debug this? 2)
where can I find more information on scripting and 3) maybe tell me
what is wrong with this, or what other command line utility I should
use, I'd be very grateful.

Here's the non-working script:
(define (gimp-batch-print filename)
   (let* ((image (car (gimp-file-load RUN-NONINTERACTIVE filename
filename)))
  (drawable (car (gimp-image-get-active-layer image


  (file_print_gimp RUN-NONINTERACTIVE
   image drawable EpsonR200 EpsonR200 raw 1
   1440 x 720 DPI Highest Quality
   Photo Quality Inkjet Paper8
   Standard
   100.0 100.0 -1 -1 -1 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 0 2 100.0 100.0
   Six Color Photo
   Adaptive Hybrid
   0)

  (gimp-image-delete image)))

Which I put in my scripts directory and tried to run with:
gimp -b gimp-batch-print ~/color.gif

TIA!
Cheers,
Simon



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[Gimp-user] How to draw a line? :(

2006-05-12 Thread Simon Roberts
I'm feeling particularly useless today, I'm pretty much a total
beginner with GIMP, but I can't believe this is as hard as I seem to be
making it.

I want to draw a straight line. I'm using Gimp 2.2.4

I try the paintbrush, I have a color selected, and I can draw a
squiggly line. The help says that holding shift down will make all
these tools constrained to straight lines, but mine doensn't draw
anything. It looks like it's trying to do measuement or something.

I try the path tool (which I can't claim to understand) and then try to
stroke the path. I get polygons while I'm messing about, I can also
get curves, but I don't seem to be able to get an actual line that
stays on the page.

What I _want_ is a straight line, constrained to horizontal or
vertical, drawn with the caligraphic brush (so it has a chiselled end)
and using the fade out option, so it disappears smoothly over a
distance.

Anyone want to tell me what's so obvious that I've missed it?

Thanks in advance,
Simon


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Re: [Gimp-user] How to draw a line? :(

2006-05-12 Thread Simon Roberts
Gach, hit reply, instead of reply to all.

Nutshell version: no, I'd not seen this, yes, so far as I can make out,
I'm doing what the tutorial says, but no, I don't get any line.

I get two crosshairs and a line joining the two as I move the mouse
while holding shift (I can constrain the line to certain angles with
control too) but when I release shift, the whole thing goes away.

Foreground and background are both set to contrasting colors compared
to the current image color.

Any thoughts?

TIA
Simon


--- Marco Wessel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Did you read the actual straight line tutorial? It's here:
 
 http://www.gimp.org/tutorials/Straight_Line/
 
 It details exactly what to do, step-by-step.
 
 
 Marco
 
 
 On May 12, 2006, at 9:02 PM, Simon Roberts wrote:
 
  I'm feeling particularly useless today, I'm pretty much a total
  beginner with GIMP, but I can't believe this is as hard as I seem  
  to be
  making it.
 
  I want to draw a straight line. I'm using Gimp 2.2.4
 
  I try the paintbrush, I have a color selected, and I can draw a
  squiggly line. The help says that holding shift down will make all
  these tools constrained to straight lines, but mine doensn't draw
  anything. It looks like it's trying to do measuement or something.
 
  I try the path tool (which I can't claim to understand) and then  
  try to
  stroke the path. I get polygons while I'm messing about, I can
 also
  get curves, but I don't seem to be able to get an actual line that
  stays on the page.
 
  What I _want_ is a straight line, constrained to horizontal or
  vertical, drawn with the caligraphic brush (so it has a chiselled
 end)
  and using the fade out option, so it disappears smoothly over a
  distance.
 
  Anyone want to tell me what's so obvious that I've missed it?
 
  Thanks in advance,
  Simon
 
 
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Solved Re: [Gimp-user] How to draw a line? :(

2006-05-12 Thread Simon Roberts
thanks, yes, It's behaving now.

It takes a mouse click to indicate the starting point, and a
shift-click to indicate the end. Holding shift in advance of the final
click shows you where it will draw. Makes perfect sense now, but I was
so expecting it to be a drag operation to draw the line (like it is
when it's a freehand line) that I couldn't see the wood for the trees.

Thanks all, especially Marco for such prompt and persistent help.

Now I can just quietly put it behind me and slowly stop feeling really
dumb!

Cheers,
Simon


--- Bob Long [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Did you read the actual straight line tutorial? It's here:
 
  http://www.gimp.org/tutorials/Straight_Line/
 
 Simon Roberts wrote:
 
  Nutshell version: no, I'd not seen this, yes, so far as I can make
 out,
  I'm doing what the tutorial says, but no, I don't get any line.
 
  I get two crosshairs and a line joining the two as I move the mouse
  while holding shift (I can constrain the line to certain angles
 with
  control too) but when I release shift, the whole thing goes away.
 
 I'm using 2.3.8. I must admit I did not find that tutorial explicit
 enough, 
 or perhaps the method has changed. I had to do this:
 
 1. One left click and release of the mouse at the point you want the
 start 
 of the line.
 2. Hold shift down. Hold control down as well if you want constrained
 
 angles.
 3. Move the mouse - a guide line will be drawn - without clicking, to
 where 
 you want the end of the line.
 4. Click and release the mouse button. The line will be drawn.
 5. Release the shift key.
 
 -- 
 Bob Long
 
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[Gimp-user] Probably simple, need to know right approach

2006-07-31 Thread Simon Roberts
Hi all,

I'm trying to put a bunch of photographs together as a collage. As I do
so, I want to be able to resize and reposition each one repeatedly
until I'm happy with the overall layout. So far what I'm doing is
pasting each image into a new layer, however, this isn't very
satisfactory because the layers are all the full size of the image, so
when I resize them, I can't really see what the effect will be on the
image itself. Similarly, repositioning the layer is a rather hit and
miss way of repositioning the image that it contains. 

What should I be doing?

TIA
Simon


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Re: [Gimp-user] Probably simple, need to know right approach

2006-07-31 Thread Simon Roberts


--- VytautasP [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Simon Roberts wrote:
  Hi all,
 
  I'm trying to put a bunch of photographs together as a collage. As
 I do
  so, I want to be able to resize and reposition each one repeatedly
  until I'm happy with the overall layout. So far what I'm doing is
  pasting each image into a new layer, however, this isn't very
  satisfactory because the layers are all the full size of the image,
 so
  when I resize them, I can't really see what the effect will be on
 the
  image itself. Similarly, repositioning the layer is a rather hit
 and
  miss way of repositioning the image that it contains. 
 
  What should I be doing?
 
  TIA
  Simon
 ImageCanvas size
 Make it the size you like (or can).
 Do not be afraid to make it bigger - you'll have more freedom to move
 
 pics. After you're satisfied with the result ImageFit canvas to
 layers.

Thanks for this, but I fear I wasn't clear (or maybe I'm just
misunderstanding your reply). My canvas is big enough to allow me to
move the layers around (it's 20x30 inches @300 dpi, something of a
memory hog :)

The problem is that when I move or resize the individual layers that
contain the individual images, I don't get a realistic preview of where
the image will be because the image is only a small fraction of the
layer size. 

If I knew how to paste an image into a new layer, and have that layer
become the size of the pasted image, that would be a help, but I'm
wondering if I'm just plain approaching this all wrong.

How should I use GIMP so that each image I paste in can be manipulated
independently (resized, repositioned)--as if each were a separate
object rather than being pixels in the same pool?

Thanks again,
Simon


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Re: [Gimp-user] Probably simple, need to know right approach--SOLVED

2006-07-31 Thread Simon Roberts


--- Matthias Julius [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Simon Roberts [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
  I'm trying to put a bunch of photographs together as a collage. As
 I do
  so, I want to be able to resize and reposition each one repeatedly
  until I'm happy with the overall layout. So far what I'm doing is
  pasting each image into a new layer, however, this isn't very
  satisfactory because the layers are all the full size of the image,
 so
  when I resize them, I can't really see what the effect will be on
 the
  image itself. Similarly, repositioning the layer is a rather hit
 and
  miss way of repositioning the image that it contains. 
 
 In the Layer menu is an item Autocrop Layer (at least in The Gimp
 2.2) that will resize the layer to the size of the pasted image.
 
 On the other hand when I paste an image and then right click the
 Floating Selection in the Layers dialog and click New Layer the new
 layer has just the size of the pasted image.

GACH! How did I miss that!

Many thanks, this is exactly what I needed.

Cheers,
Simon



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Re: [Gimp-user] Colour management

2007-09-18 Thread Simon Roberts
Can I profile my monitor with this? If so, what are the supported profiling 
tools? I went to PS simply because I couldn't make head nor tail of the lcms 
stuff, but absolutely have to have a true monitor.

Cheers,
Simon

- Original Message 
From: Alexander Rabtchevich [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 8:54:18 AM
Subject: Re: [Gimp-user] Colour management

Yes, 2.4 has color management.

Richard Oliver wrote:
 Does Gimp have any thing like the colour management system that Photoshop 
 has , which I believe can be used to set the system to a standard setting 
 to ensure that periferals such as monitors,cameras., printers etc are all 
 operating on the same colour values.
 Regards,Richard

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-- 
With respect
Alexander Rabtchevich

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[Gimp-user] Question about involuntary resizing

2007-11-08 Thread Simon Roberts
Hi all,

I created a headshot for a friend, but the website she's posted it on, which is 
essentially out of her control, does some automatic resizing. Actually, I'm not 
sure if the resizing occurs in the server, or on the client browser. Anyway, 
the original image has been offered at a variety of sizes, and every time it 
ends up looking granular and awful on the end user's browsers. The site admins 
don't know anything--they're just using a system that was written for them.

I would provide a single small image resized to the final size, but I don't 
think that will work because a) I think the resizing is dynamic, and b) the 
user can click on the image to get a bigger (the unresized) image. I want the 
larger one to still exist and we'll lose that if we just go with a small image.

Under these dreadfully sub-optimal conditions, what can I do, or what should I 
avoid doing, to try to ensure the resized image looks as good as it can?

I should point out that other people's pictures all look better than my 
friend's. Not always great, to be sure, but clearly there's room to improve if 
I knew what to do.

TIA,
Simon



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Re: [Gimp-user] chromatic aberration

2008-03-18 Thread Simon Roberts


- Original Message 
From: norman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: gimp-user@lists.XCF.Berkeley.EDU
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 8:52:22 AM
Subject: Re: [Gimp-user] chromatic aberration

 snip 
 
 Unfortunately, ca is controlled in lense manufacture and design and
 has two solutions, software or better glass.  Minimizing ca via
 technique would severly limit your scope, imo.

I would expect most lenses these days to be made such that they do not
cause CA. From what I have read, there is another factor to be taken
into account, the chip responsible for recording the image. I gathered
that small chips are quite prone to CA and the larger the chip the lower
the CA and that it virtually disappears in the 1:1 (35 mm) format. The
camera I am using is an upper end, point and press so perhaps I need a
better camera with a larger chip.

---


CA is indeed a function of the lens quality. You're also right that a smaller 
sensor makes CA more visible, that's just simple geometry. If the lens produces 
an abberation of any given size, then if the sensor is half the size, the 
apparent effect of the abberation is doubled.

Unfortunately, only the best lenses have this effect almost entirely 
eliminated. You'll find some that are called Apochromatic or just Apo. They 
tend to be much more expensive than normal lenses (typically called 
achromatic). I have a perfectly respectable, but low-end, Nikon zoom lens 
designed originally for film use that generates what to me is an entirely 
unacceptable amount of CA at the long end of its zoom on my DX-format D-SLR.

Software can certainly help with this, and that other product has this built 
in. Then again, you can buy a couple of really nice lenses for the price you'll 
pay for that product ;

Meanwhile, you're more likely to have trouble because of poor focus, camera 
shake, and other more mundane issues, than you are from CA in general. I'd say 
just forget about it, and focus (sorry ;) on your artistic abilities. Let's 
face it, the lenses that most of the greats used were total junk compared to 
the most basic point and shoot now. See Ken Rockwell's comments on it's not 
the camera at http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/notcamera.htm

Cheers,
Simon

You can tell whether a man is clever by his answers. You can tell whether a 
man is wise by his questions. — Naguib Mahfouz





  

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Re: [Gimp-user] chromatic aberration

2008-03-18 Thread Simon Roberts

- Original Message 
From: norman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
...
 CA is indeed a function of the lens quality. You're also right that a smaller 
 sensor makes CA more visible, that's just simple geometry. If the lens 
 produces an abberation of any given size, then if the sensor is half the 
 size, the apparent effect of the abberation is doubled.
 
 Unfortunately, only the best lenses have this effect almost entirely 
 eliminated. You'll find some that are called Apochromatic or just Apo. 
 They tend to be much more expensive than normal lenses (typically called 
 achromatic). I have a perfectly respectable, but low-end, Nikon zoom lens 
 designed originally for film use that generates what to me is an entirely 
 unacceptable amount of CA at the long end of its zoom on my DX-format D-SLR.

I feel sure that you must be correct. I have never seen any noticeable
fringing or CA effects with my ordinary photography it is only with this
project I set myself of copying a lot of old colour transparencies. In
the old days I used to often feel frustrated at not being able to do a
great deal with colour slides such as I did in my darkroom with black
and white film. Thus, I saw this as chance to catch up on history and at
the same time, maybe, produce some interesting images digitally. It now
looks as though I shall be frustrated yet again.

Norman

---

Are you copying the slides, or are you scanning them?

If you're using a slide copying attachment and effectively rephotographing them 
onto your digital camera, then the CA of the copying equipment will be a 
factor. On the other hand, if you're scanning them, then CA isn't usually an 
issue, because scanning is a different mechanism entirely. If you're scanning 
and then seeing CA, I believe the CA must be in the original slide. Perhaps you 
just didn't notice before? We do tend to view digital images at much higher 
magnifications than we used to view silver halide images. (To be fair, that 
might not be true of slides though!)

Cheers,
Simon





  

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