Re: [h-cost] unsubscribing
As someone mentioned earlier, you have to use https://indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume and not the link that appears at the bottom of the messages. Does unsubscribing from this page not work? There seems to be hardly any traffic on the list anyway - all gone to social media, I suppose. Kate Bunting On Tue, Nov 1, 2016 at 7:40 PM, Charlene C wrote: > I've been trying for some time to unsubscribe from the list. Help, please? > > Charlene > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Help in dating an image
Lia, Can you give us a clue as to the general period the image is from? Is it a photograph, or something earlier? Kate Bunting Retired librarian & 17th century reenactor On Fri, Aug 26, 2016 at 12:18 AM, Hansen, Lia wrote: > Subject: Help in dating an image > > My friend is an archeologist and found this image at a recent dig. I > thought this group might be a good resource to help zero in on a date. If > you are interested in weighing in, feel free to email me at > lia.han...@vanguard.edu<mailto:lia.han...@vanguard.edu> and I'll send the > image to you since I can't seem to post it and I don't have a link to it.. > > Thanks! > > Lia > > Lia M. Hansen, M.F.A. > Costume Designer/Associate Professor of Theatre Arts > Vanguard University of Southern California > 55 Fair Drive, Costa Mesa, CA 92626 > lia.han...@vanguard.edu<mailto:lia.han...@vanguard.edu> > 949-246-6585--cell > 714-662-5229--fax > 714-619-6423--office > Matt 6:1-8 > > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costumes in "War and Peace"
I wasn't snarking, merely asking for information. I thought the bare shoulders were wrong for the period, even as "extreme" fashion, and wanted to confirm my opinion. Kate Bunting On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 9:50 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: > Oh sure, I just don't understand why some people think it's so much fun to > get together and tear someone down. Which is really what's happening in a > lot of those discussions. Some feel snarking is off limits with people they > know, but the movie/TV industry is fair game. > > Fran > > > > On 1/5/2016 1:14 PM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: > >> If we all liked the same thing, there would only be vanilla ice cream, as >> they say. >> >> >> Ann Wass >> >> >> >> >> -Original Message- >> From: Lavolta Press >> To: Historical Costume >> Sent: Tue, Jan 5, 2016 2:17 pm >> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costumes in "War and Peace" >> >> I gave up on snarking at movie costumes many years ago. Movies are >> fiction. They are not documentaries, they are not meant to be >> educational, and they are not made primarily for viewing by historic >> reenactors. In many, much of the history itself is, at best, speculation. >> >> I don't watch movies for the costumes. I watch them to see whether it's >> good drama and looking for things to criticize just spoils the drama. >> When I want solid information I look elsewhere. And really, some of the >> Facebook discussions sound just like catty little junior-high girls >> gleefully tearing down each other's clothes. >> >> Fran >> Lavolta Press >> www.lavoltapress.com >> >> >> >> On 1/5/2016 2:59 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: >> >>> Some of my Facebook friends are following. No one shoulder bare, or >>> many, many, other things. I know it's theater, but even allowing for that, >>> seems very weird. My opinion is, even though it is a story, it is based so >>> firmly in a historical time and place, it seems downright strange to go off >>> on such flights of fancy. Wonder if there will be a "making of" wherein it >>> is explained? >>> >>> Ann Wass >>> >>> >>> ___ >> h-costume mailing list >> h-costume@mail.indra.com >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume >> >> ___ >> h-costume mailing list >> h-costume@mail.indra.com >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume >> >> >> > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Costumes in "War and Peace"
Did any list members in the UK see the new BBC dramatization of "War and Peace" on Sunday? I know ladies' gowns of that period (1805) were inspired by classical draperies, but would it really have been acceptable to wear an asymmetrical dress leaving one shoulder bare? There were at least two examples of evening gowns in this style as well as some with narrow shoulder straps which seemed jarringly modern to me. Kate Bunting ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Who's still here? & smock question
Hi, Susan, I take it you mean the agricultural worker's smock? (Smock was also used as a synonym for a woman's shift or chemise.) I've never heard of the outer garment being worn by women. Kate Bunting On Fri, Dec 18, 2015 at 5:10 AM, Susan wrote: > Hi all, > I'm still here. I get fed up with facebook, and rarely with email lists, > so happy to see people. > > Since you're all here ... I've just gotten interested in english smocks > (18th - 19th c ones) and was debating making one. I've requested a bunch > of books from the library, and this question might be answered in one of > them. But ... > > Did women wear the traditional smocks? in any era? > > thanks, Susan c (in seattle) > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?
I'm still here too. I don't do much sewing but am still involved in historical reenactment. Kate Bunting On Thu, Dec 17, 2015 at 3:28 PM, Catherine Olanich Raymond < ca...@thyrsus.com> wrote: > On 12/17/2015 09:38 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: > >> I have been getting the monthly reminders from indra.com, but I have to >> admit I don't read them. >> >> >> I also have something to share--this is based on the paper I gave at the >> Jane Austen Society of North America's annual general meeting in Louisville >> in October. >> >> >> >> http://www.jasna.org/persuasions/on-line/vol36no1/wass.html >> >> > Thanks for the URL, Ann! > > My attempt to respond to the "is the list still going" post also drew a > rejection message. Hopefully this will get through. > > -- > Catherine Olanich Raymond > ca...@thyrsus.com > (610) 805-9542 > > "Tell me and I forget. Teach me and I remember. Involve me and I learn." > Benjamin Franklin > > > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Anyone here?
I've been on this list for years; it used to be really busy. I assume the drop in numbers is because of the growth of social media. So far I've resisted joining Facebook. Kate Bunting Retired librarian & 17th century reenactor. On Wed, Jan 14, 2015 at 6:39 AM, Patricia Dunham wrote: > Yeah, it has been quiet. > > We don't do Facebook because we're OLD, we do still believe in privacy and > don't think much of the merchandising of FB info. > > The weekend just past was Kingdom 12th Night here in AnTir, that kind of > thing might also obtain in other parts of the country??? > > Now let's see if I can get this to mail without creating duplicates, or > just refusing to go at all. argh. > > chimene > > > On Jan 13, 2015, at 3:39 PM, Sharon Collier wrote: > > > Hi, I haven't been getting any messages lately, until today-I got only > one. > > Is the list especially quiet? > > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 13, Issue 85
1. I think only the very poor would have possessed only one outfit. Anyone with any pretensions to respectability would at least have had an everyday dress and a Sunday best. 2. For centuries, outer garments were not easily washable and people wore a lot of underclothes to act as a washable lining to their clothes. A man's shirt counted as underclothing and a woman wore a shift/chemise with the same function. These would go in the laundry, and the outer clothes would merely be brushed/sponged to remove mud splashes etc. Kate Bunting Retired librarian & 17th century reenactor. On Wed, Oct 22, 2014 at 7:00 PM, wrote: > Send h-costume mailing list submissions to > h-costume@mail.indra.com > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > h-costume-requ...@mail.indra.com > > You can reach the person managing the list at > h-costume-ow...@mail.indra.com > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of h-costume digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > >1. wardrobe size again (Cascio Michael) > > > -- > > Message: 1 > Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2014 21:25:36 -0700 > From: Cascio Michael > To: h-cost...@indra.com > Subject: [h-cost] wardrobe size again > Message-ID: > <1413951936.54448.yahoomailba...@web160401.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > Hi All, > I've found all your replies really helpful and now have a question on > the practicalities of a small wardrobe. How many dresses would a lower > middle class married woman have in her wardrobe? What type of garments > would they have been, wrappers, dresses, nightgowns, etc.? And what would > you wear on laundry day if you only had one dress? I've read how the kids > would be told to stay in their rooms in their undies while the laundry was > drying but mom would have had to wear something while out in the yard > hanging out the clothes to dry. Ditto for dad because he couldn't not work > just because his clothes were being washed. > > > Cassandra > > > > -- > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > > End of h-costume Digest, Vol 13, Issue 85 > * > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] The shape of Chardin's girl with shuttlecock
Marie Hebbie wrote: Kate Bunting commented that you wear 17 century garb – can you achieve the same shape today as our shuttlecock girl? Dear Marie, No, I don't think I could achieve that shape. I've only once worn a pair of 18th century stays, many years ago. The 17th century costumes I wear are from the 1640s when the waist was higher; see http://link.library.utoronto.ca/hollar/digobject.cfm?Idno=Hollar_k_1686&query=Hollar_k_1686&size=large&type=browse so I don't need such extreme shaping. Kate Bunting Retired librarian & 17th century reenactor ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] re wardrobe size, middle class
Another point: some of Sherlock Holmes's deductions depend on the fact that lower middle-class Victorians owned fewer clothes than most of us do today. Even after the textile industry was mechanised, before the invention of synthetic fibres clothing was comparatively expensive. So, the typist in "A Case if Identity" wears the same dress to work every day, and it has marks on the cuffs where her wrists rest on the table edge which give a clue to her occupation. The pawnbroker's assistant who is secretly digging a tunnel to the bank vault across the street in "The Red-headed League" has mud on the knees of his trousers; he hasn't changed them or put on overalls. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] The shape of Chardin's girl with shuttlecock
Eighteenth-century gowns were cut with a narrow back. From an early age the girl would have worn bodices with some boning which trained her to hold her shoulders back and push her chest forward (not exactly "tight stays", since they didn't constrict the waist). Maybe Chardin did also exaggerate the effect a little to suit contemporary taste, in the same way that modern fashion illustrators draw women with very long legs. Kate Bunting Retired librarian & 17th century reenactor ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] slashing fabric
Julie wrote: > Thanks for the responses. I knew the slashings could be done so they >wouldn't fray. I guess the part I was really surprised by was saying that >they slashed the clothing that was too small so it could be worn. I don' t >know if that's just an origin story or what, but the Landsknect clothing >I've seen was beautifully slashed in decorative ways and not in ways to >make it larger. Surely, to get into garments that are too small you would need to cut the armholes, waistband etc, not just stretch the body of the fabric? I'd vote for the "conspicuous consumption" theory. BTW, the spelling is KNECHT (related to the English word "knight" which originally meant a manservant, then a military follower). Kate Bunting Retired librarian & 17th century reenactor ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Chemise/Shift question
"Seventeenth-Century Women's Dress Patterns" ed. North & Tiramani shows a chemise with all cut edges hemmed before the pieces are sewn together. Kate Bunting Retired librarian & 17th century reenactor ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1933 hat help - French magazine pattern
Sybella, A few corrections to the translation: It definitely calls for grosgrain ribbon as the alternative to velvet. "Garniture" here means the trimming on the hat. (It may mean a gasket in another context!) "Pan" may refer to the two hanging ends of ribbon. "Pince" seems to mean a dart, if I interpret my dictionary correctly. "Batissez-la" - literally "build it" - i.e. stitch it? "Du sens oppose a la premiere" = "in the opposite direction to the first". Surely you are meant to bring points E and E' together? Hope this helps, Kate Bunting Retired librarian & 17th century reenactor >Police Bonnet > > It's a very wanted model now. > The one we are proposing you, is particularly successful. > Take 1m60 of velvet ribbon summer n?22, or if you don't have that, > a large grain (grosgrain?) ribbon. > Take 0m80 ribbon for the gasket plus 0m20 for the pan (?): 0m60 remains for > the cap. > The pattern is drawn up for a 0m55 head entry: > > I. The Headband cap. II. The gasket. > > Place the pattern over the ribbon, pass threads over > as indicated in the shematic with the dotted line: mark the reference > points. > The cap: Shape the clip (the pliers? the clamp?)by bringing together D to > D', > b?tissez-l?. Close the headband to your head entry. > > Gasket: From F, form a point (tip) by bringing the reference points A A' > together. > Pin it. Form a shell (case? hull? body?, cover?) by bringing the 2 B and > B'from the end of the ribbon > to the 2 B and B'on the edge of the ribbon. > Shape and pin a second shell (...?) opposite to the first direction by > bringing > C together witk C' and C' to E'. > > Place the gasket on to the headband cap. > Secure point E'(en regard de E du bandeau de calotte--> this can mean > "opposite E on the headband cap" or "facing E on the headband cap". I have > no idea which one is meant here..) > Align the meeting points and get the back cover to point F, F'. > Put G and G' together, after which you do te same with I and I', and then H > and H'. > The seam of the headband cap stops under the front (cover, hull? shell?) > > Under point F', slide a piece of ribbon of 0m20, diagonally cut on each side > Sew the cap by a few points hidden in the folds. > (a cap with three ribs, in taffetas, serves as headdress) > > Lysiane ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?
Ann Catelli wrote: >Tank top because it was worn by tank crewmen, who'd strip down to that layer, UK vest layer, >because it was very very hot inside a tank. When I first heard the term in about 1970 I wondered if it was something to do with military tanks. I've searched the H-cost archives and can't find the thread giving the swimsuit explanation, but Wikipedia agrees with it. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sweater_vest Kate Bunting Retired librarian & 17th century reenactor Derby, UK ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?
Here in the UK we would call it a vest, because it resembles the undergarment of that name. (Yes, I know a vest is a waistcoat in the US.) Out of interest, I looked at the website of a clothing company I use and they call them vests or occasionally camis, but the distinction between them is unclear. I first heard the term "tank top" 40 years ago to describe a sleeveless knitted pullover to be worn over a shirt for warmth. The name always puzzled me until I learned from this list that Americans used to call a swimming pool a tank and that the garment was named from those 1920s men's swimsuits. I don't think we would ever call the lightweight garment a tank over here. Kate Bunting Retired librarian & 17th century reenactor Derby, UK ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Regency era beard
The other week I watched the film "Bright star" on TV. I loved the costumes, especially Fanny Brawne's high-fashion Regency outfits, but I found Charles Brown's beard incongruous. Surely a gentleman would not have worn a full beard in that era? I always understood that they came back into fashion in the mid-19th century. Kate Bunting Retired librarian & 17th century reenactor. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Edwardian School Attire Question
When I was at a girls' school (England) in the late '50s - early '60s, as well as a conventional knitted scarf and a conventional tie as part of our winter uniform, we also had "house ties". These were worn at inter-house sports events. They consisted of a length of a sort of tape about an inch and a half wide in the appropriate colour, loosely woven from a wool-like yarn. The ends were left raw and would fray into a fringe. They could be worn either as a necktie or a waist sash. I've no idea whether other schools, or boys' schools, had anything similar, but it's the only suggestion I can make for a "scarf" which could function as a trouser belt. I do know that, for much of the early 20th century, schoolboys commonly wore a belt of a more tightly woven fabric in coloured stripes, fastened with a clasp in the form of a snake (see http://www.darcyclothing.com/shop/elasticated-snake-belts-br750.html for a modern version). I remember them from my childhood, I also remember my father (b. 1907) saying that he wore one as a boy. So maybe these evolved from the "scarf" mentioned in 1907? Kate Bunting Retired librarian & 17th century reenactor ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Boning and corsets for musicians
I remember having a discussion about this on the list some years ago (10+?) after I had nearly fainted while playing the shawm in a 17th century corset in a sunny window. I was told that a corset should not be laced so tightly as to restrict your breathing. Of course I'm aware that corsets of later periods extend below the waist, increasing the problem. Having once worn an 18th century corset, I've often wondered how the lady singers of Handel's time managed. Of course, as Maggie says, they were used to it. Kate Bunting Retired librarian & 17th-century reenactor. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 1919 hairstyle
Another TV costume drama question... In the current BBC series "Peaky Blinders" (about a criminal gang in Birmingham post-WW1) a prominent female character wears her shoulder-length hair loose. http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p01fj945 This looks far too modern to me. Before short styles came in in the '20s, wouldn't women have put their hair up? Kate Bunting Retired librarian & 17th century reenactor ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Modern hairstyles, was The White Queen
Sharon Collier wrote: >This is a problem even with re-enactors. In my opinion, nothing spoils the >look of an outfit as quickly as modern hair. Renaissance hair was parted in >the middle. No bangs. If you have bangs---use hairspray! Sure it doesn't >look like "you"that's the point! My hair is so thick and heavy that hairspray wouldn't have much effect, but I cover my fringe (bangs) with a forehead cloth worn under my coif. Kate Bunting Retired librarian & 17th century reenactor ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] The White Queen
As the list seems very quiet at the moment, I thought I'd ask what UK members who know about the Middle Ages think of the costumes in "The White Queen"? (It's a series based on 3 of Philippa Gregory's novels currently running on the BBC.) I know little about mediaeval costume, but my impression is that they have fallen into the same trap as the designers for "The Tudors" - the women show too much hair and not enough linen. Only a few older women wear headdresses. I assume this is supposed to make the leading ladies more attractive to modern eyes. Kate Bunting Retired librarian & 17th century reenactor. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] : Mary Rose jerkin patterns
I understand that there were soldiers as well as sailors on board; I suspect the jerkins may have belonged to them. I don't know how long the front skirts were, but possibly they could have been intended to protect the breeches from the tassets (pieces of armour to protect the thighs)? Early 17th century pikemen wore these suspended from the front of the breastplate. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor Derby, UK Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2013 22:55:45 + From: "Wilson, Annette" To: "h-cost...@indra.com" Subject: [h-cost] Mary Rose jerkin patterns [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED] Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I am starting to make a pattern for my husband of one of the leather jerkins from the Mary Rose (details in "Before the Mast"). The ship sank in 1545. Does anyone know why almost all the jerkins have skirts which are shorter at the back than the front? As far as we can tell from looking at illustrations of people living on the land in the same period, it is only the mariners' jerkins which have this feature Any ideas? thanks Annette Annette Wilson Editor, Flora of Australia Australian Biological Resources Study Parks Australia Department of Sustainability, Environment, Water, Population and Communities GPO Box 787 CANBERRA ACT 2601 AUSTRALIA ph: +61 (0)2 6250 9417 fax: +61 (0)2 6250 9448 email: annette.wil...@environment.gov.au _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Pride and Prejudice: Having a Ball
I saw this on TV and very much enjoyed it. Would have liked to see a bit more of the musicians, but as it was they managed to include a lot of interesting stuff. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor Derby, UK _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Children's fashions
Maggie wrote: It also strikes me that we are moving back to kids wearing miniature adult styles. I was thinking the same thing myself recently. I'm old enough to remember young boys routinely wearing short trousers (i.e. knee-length suit trousers, as distinct from casual "shorts"). Now that (a) most clothes are easily washable, and (b) adults are wearing casual styles more of the time, I don't think there's an obvious difference between adult and children's styles. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor Derby, UK _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Terms for pants
I had a pair of dark red corduroy knickerbockers in the early 1980s. Being used to wearing breeches as a musketeer in the Sealed Knot, and finding them comfortable, I was happy to follow the fashion. I remember my mother telling me years ago that "plus-fours" were so called because they had an extra four inches in the width (rather than the length). Don't know how correct that is. I think we were looking at an old photo of my dad in them. He was never a golfer, so the fashion must have been taken up for general wear. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor Derby, UK _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fabrics Medieval vs Modern
I once had a cardigan which included ramie fibre. According to Wikipedia this is the same plant as the "Chinese grass" that Fran mentioned, a kind of nettle. Apparently it is difficult to use alone as it doesn't stretch and has many projecting "hairs". I can vouch that this is true of stinging nettle fibre, which I once had a try at hand-spinning. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor Derby, UK _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Sir Edmund Verney's gold doublet
Linda Walton wrote: To wish everyone on this list a bright New Year, I'm sending you this link to a photo of a brilliant garment, which I came across recently by some serendipity:- exhibition of Sir Edmund's gold doublet, circa 1633 http://www.thesandells.net/2012/WarwickBuckinghamMarch/godldoublet.html It can be seen at Claydon House http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/claydon/ Wow - stunning! (and exactly the period I'm interested in.) I've read the book "The Verneys" by Adrian Tinniswood, which is about the family in the 17th century. What a remarkably wide neckband the doublet has. Of course the fashionable look was to have the collar close up to the throat, but you never see the neckband uncovered in pictures to realise quite how high it was. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor Derby, UK _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Polite request, was : Cotton stockings (was Amazon dry goods)
Could I remind people replying to messages from the Digest to kindly remember to delete the unwanted bits before sending? If you don't, it makes the digests very long and the new messages difficult to find among all the repetition. Many thanks, Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor Derby, UK _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Hello again!
Hello, Sybella, The list is still active, but not as busy as it used to be. Teddy left a few years ago because his employer objected to his using his work email to subscribe, and a lot of the other old names seem to have disappeared. Glad to see you back! Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor Derby, UK _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Hair and Reenacting
I wear my hair short (though not as short as Sharon's) because it's extremely thick and hard to manage when long, and I also have a heavy fringe (bangs) because my hairline is low. For late 16th - early 17th century re-enactment I wear a coif with a forehead cloth which hides practically all my hair. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor Derby, UK _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Nottingham Textile Museum
I live quite near Nottingham, but unfortunately didn't manage to get to the Textile Museum before it closed. I've done a little googling and discovered that it closed in 2003 because the old house on Castle Gate was considered "unsuitable for the display of sensitive textiles and costumes". It looks as though there have never been enough funds to display the collections anywhere else. See http://www.thisisnottingham.co.uk/place-lace-s-Calais/story-12188773-detail/story.html (scroll down to see the relevant bits.) I too thought of Bess of Hardwick's embroideries. Hardwick Hall is in Derbyshire, close to the M1 motorway, if Ginni's friend can travel that far. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor Derby, UK _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Interesting underwear find
Teena wrote: >The article was in the Daily Mail. It was probably right next to an article >about seeing the Virgin Mary on a >pancake and having an alien as a brother in >law. >? >Teena But it does refer to an article in the August issue of BBC History Magazine, which should be more authoritative. Any UK list members have access to this? Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Nell Gwyn
How about this? http://www.traceyourdutchroots.com/art/zigeunermeisje.html ...which is from the right century! Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] OP - Pret-a-Papier, Isabelle de Borchagrave
Emily Gilbert wrote: >Those are astonishing! >By the way, the fourth photo down is labeled "a dress based on a 1730 >design", but it looks to me more like a gentleman's banyan over a >waistcoat. What do you all think? Indeed it does. Also, can 18th century experts tell me why the saque-back dress is caught up like that? I thought that style was always worn with the pleats hanging straight down to the floor. This is where we need Bjarne! I love the blue 1908 dress. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] More on hard to find items at grocery stores
This is OT, but I've enjoyed cooking Chinese food ever since Ken Hom made his first BBC series in the early '80s. A few years ago when I wanted to make a favourite recipe that needed yellow bean sauce, I suddenly found that the local supermarkets had all stopped stocking it. I emailed Sainsburys and they said there was no longer a demand. Luckily I found that there is a Chinese grocer's in Derby where I can get it. The supermarkets now sell "cook-in sauces" rather than the basic ingredients. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor Derby, UK _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Schoolboy's hat
Actually it's Hounslow (without the "d"). Not local to me, but it's a district of Greater London. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1968 boys' wear
I don't know about the USA, but when I was a child in the '50s British children's clothes were sized by age. Being of slight build, I wore sizes that were supposed to fit someone younger than I was! For Parisian apaches, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apache_(gang) Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Scranton Lace Company History
Very interesting, thanks, Penny. Here in Derby (UK) we are only half an hour's drive from Nottingham, but I hadn't realised that "Nottingham lace" was used as a generic term for machine-made lace. I suppose it's all made in the Far East now, like most of the other textile production. About 40 years ago I had a summer job at a local factory which made synthetic yarns and wove or knitted them into fabric. There was an old man who operated a machine which cut the punched cards for making patterned fabric on Jacquard looms. Seeing the cards in the photos reminded me of him. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Not tying your bonnet strings?
Linda wrote: >Thank you, Elizabeth W. and Sharon C. - I never realised that wearing a >hat could have so many implications! I wonder if the idea is modern of >"doing honour to the occasion" by wearing a hat, which seems to be >coming back into custom and not just fashion. >When I wore a hat as part of my school uniform, ( yes, a very long time >ago), I would have been grateful for ribbons. In Summer terms, I must >have covered many miles with one hand holding it on my head; Autumn and >Spring terms were not so bad, since our school Winter coats had an >especially wide hood to cover the hat, and that tied with a gathering >string. Thinking back, we must have looked very sweet . . . >There were certainly rules about never being seen out of doors without >your hat - nor your gloves, (brown leather for Winter, white cotton for >Summer). Was there some ettiquette behind glove-wearing too? As you say in your 3rd paragraph, I think before the mid-20th century everyone routinely wore a hat out of doors, even if they only had a very shabby one. We used to sew elastic to our school panama hats. Our winter hats were knitted caps, so keeping them on wasn't a problem. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] (h-cost) Re: costume on book covers, argh
I had two historical romances published back in the 70s (when it was comparatively easy to find a market). The first had a lovely cover illustration which portrayed the lead characters just as I imagined them (whether by accident or design, I don't know). The second had a horrible cover, in which the male figure had apparently been copied from a magazine photo of a reenactor and didn't even have the right hair colour. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re:Pink?
It's my understanding that the flower was named after the fabric treatment (because of its petals' jagged edges), and the colour after the flower. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Need information on "sacque" garments (NOT the dress)
"VCR" means "video cassette recorder". Perhaps the writer had seen some historic garments described on a video? I thought that women began to wear drawers in the Regency period (in its broadest sense), when bulky petticoats ceased to be worn for 20 years or so. Am I wrong? Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Where is everyone hanging out these days?
I joined around 1999, I think. We (at work) were directed to a site listing mailing lists, with the idea that we should experiment with them for work purposes, but I found H-costume and have been addicted ever since (though my era of early-mid 17th century isn't a popular one on the list). Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Dressing a Victorian lady
...and, of course, before the 20th century if you were having an illicit affair and hadn't much time, you made love with most of your clothes on! Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Dressing a Victorian lady
The person mentioned in the article who wondered about Georgian underwear - hasn't she heard of shifts? Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Jaw Dropping: Final Price for Debbie Reynolds costumes
I saw a news report on the forthcoming sale on BBC breakfast news before I read the first discussion of it here (but I only get the list in digest form on my work computer). I think they just said that her plan to set up a museum had fallen through. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 18th c. man's waistcoat on ebay
It's lovely, but someone has some crossed wires somewhere. It's the garment itself that dates from the time of Pitt the Younger, not the period when the last wearer is said to have been Speaker! Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1620s jacket vs waistcoat
According to a talk by Stuart Peachey which I heard last August, a waistcoat was a close-fitting sleeved upper garment worn by working women. Kimiko, the modern meaning of what Americans call a vest, as a man's garment, dates from the eighteenth century onwards. I think of a jacket in the seventeenth century context as the loose, often fur-trimmed women's garments often seen in Dutch genre paintings, but I don't know if that's a period term. The heavily embroidered ones from earlier in the century are also described as jackets in the modern context. My two penn'orth, Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 15th Year Anniversary--A shout out!
I can't remember exactly when I joined the list, but I do remember Penny starting up her website. Most of it is way after my main period of interest, but congratulations and thanks for the free access! Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Queen Maud's wardrobe
We had family friends in Norway (my father did military service there in the aftermath of WW2). I've heard it said that in later life Queen Maud used the public passenger ships to visit England and would sit in the lounge knitting. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17c reenactor. _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fur trims
Mary Piero Carey wrote: >On 12/4/2010 9:39 AM, Kate Bunting wrote: >Political correctness has made it impossible to buy old fur coats in >charity >shops... >Huh? >Kate, where are you? The 2nd hand stores around here still sell fur >>sometimes& the yard sales& estate sales are rife with them. I must have >>regretfully passed on buying well over a dozen in the last year, for lack >of >time and/or projects that required them! (All those baby boomers moving >into >smaller quarters, or dying, I'm sure.) I'm in Derby, UK. I scoured the local charity shops and could only find fake fur coats. I understand from the staff that they have a policy of not offering real fur for sale, presumably to avoid risking attacks by animal rights activists. Anyway, I now have my fur thanks to the kindness of a fellow-reenactor. I was wondering whether anyone else on the list had experience of applying small cuts of fur to a garment. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fur trims, was What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
My current project is to trim the 17th century jacket, which I made last winter, with fur. Political correctness has made it impossible to buy old fur coats in charity shops, but a fellow reenactor kindly gave me the sleeves of a rabbit coat during the summer. I want it to look like the fur-edged jackets you see in many Dutch paintings. Does anyone have any advice about this? I've borrowed a library book with instructions for making fur collars etc. It recommends you to dampen the skin side of the fur and pin it into shape on a board before cutting. I've made a paper template but haven't had time to do anything more yet. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Italian "Bolognaise" style
Michael Hamilton wrote: >In the caption, it mentions that Mrs Roslin-Giroust is dressed "a la >Boulognaise", or in the style of Bologna. >So, the big question - what about her dress is "Boulognaise"? (BTW, google >unfortunately gets swamped by spaghetti recipes when you try to google it). At the risk of stating the obvious, have you tried using Advanced Search and asking it to exclude spaghetti recipes? Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Need help identifying furs
Ermine fur comes from the stoat, a mustelid larger than the weasel but smaller than mink, otters etc. The black tail-tip is retained in the white phase and gives ermine its distinctive black spots. On the subject of fur, I was given the sleeves of an old rabbit coat this summer, and my winter sewing project will be working out how to trim my new 17th century jacket with it. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor Message: 7 Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2010 18:12:31 -0500 From: "Land of Oz" To: "Historical Costume" Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need help identifying furs Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain;charset="utf-8"; format="flowed" Mink do not turn white in the winter and AFAIK neither do marten/sable. Ermine are considerably smaller than either mink or marten/sable and when in the white phase they have a distinctive black tip on the tail. Denise On Wed, 3 Nov 2010 18:42:14 -0400 Becky Rautine wrote: > > maybe mink but sable and mink are >pretty much the same thing. The white >could be what some old heraldry >called ermine. Mink/Sable/Ermine all >go through color changes due to >winter. Dark in the spring, the white >for cold snowy times. Either way, I'd >say these are the same family of >furred critters. > > Sincerely, > Rebecca Rautine _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 9, Issue 298
Jean wrote... >Another UK viewer - I loved it. I thought it worked really well with >just enough references to the original and very neat ways of updating >the characters' backgrounds and relationships. I agree with that - it was good fun spotting the references to the original stories. Personally I liked the first and third best. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Words for clothes
"Costume" doesn't have the same ambiguity for British people, as we would call the sort of thing Americans wear at Hallowe'en "fancy dress" (though my late father, born in 1907, used to call a woman's suit a costume). In my re-enactment society we, too, call our period clothing "kit". Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OOPS - forgot subject line - Chemise pattern
Laurie T wrote: >The chemise in the painting seems unlikely to have a drawstring neckline. >Any thoughts on this? We discussed drawstrings on shifts/chemises a few years ago, and the consensus was that before the 18th century they all had sewn gathers round the neck and wrists. I recently heard a talk by Stuart Peachey, the British expert on the 17th century, and asked him a question about this. He confirmed the above statement. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor. _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Stuart Peachey talk
I've just come back from the Sealed Knot's August Bank Holiday muster at Basing House (the ruins of a large house in Hampshire which was owned by a Catholic nobleman and was besieged by the Parliamentarians during 1663-4). On the Sunday evening Stuart Peachey, the expert on 17th century life, gave a talk on lower-class 17th century costume. He spoke without amplification in a crowded beer tent, but I was (literally) sitting at his feet so I could hear very well. Someone on the Martin Luther thread mentioned front-opening skirts. This is a century later, of course, but Stuart told us that 17th century working women commonly wore a sleeveless front-opening gown, and always covered it with an apron (practical or decorative) to hide the part of the opening below the waist. Other points of interest:- Contemporary illustrations, even when supposedly portraying an incident of known date, can't be relied on for costume details of a specific decade. Often the same figure with minor changes appears in prints or woodcuts from different dates and even different countries. The woman with a broad-brimmed hat and a muffler http://www.learnnc.org/lp/multimedia/6851 appears, on foot and on horseback, in numerous pictures. No evidence has been found that 17th century coifs had a gathered projection at the back; it's thought that this appearance is derived from tying a tape round the "bun" of hair over the coif to hold it in place. I asked about drawstring necks on women's shifts, which we have discussed here. Stuart confirmed that there was no evidence for these; the gathers were sewn to a neckband. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor. _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] OT Padley Martyrs (was What would my ancestor have worn?)
Dear Michelle, Not costume related, but the mention of Padley rang a bell with me. Lower down on the website you mentioned, http://www.padley.catholicweb.com/ , is an account of the Padley Martyrs. Here in Derby we have one of the few remaining Bridge Chapels (where travellers used to pray), close by St. Mary's Bridge where the Martyrs were executed. They are supposed to have spent their last night there. It is now administered by Derby Cathedral, where I worship, and a joint Anglican/Catholic commemoration of the Padley Martyrs is held every year. http://www.derbycathedral.org/st_marys.asp Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] [ h-cost] Tom Tierney, was Fashion crisis!
Cathy Raymond wrote: He did a book on later medieval fashion where he misintreprets the long bead string worn by a woman in the Tres Riches Heures as a transparent fabric with a beaded edge. I know very little about mediaeval costume, but I can understand why Tierney thought it was a cape with a beaded edge - the beads pass OVER her arm. Looks very awkward to modern eyes, but I suppose you didn't have to do anything energetic in that kind of outfit! Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Victorian hair
Good to see your picture, Robin, after reading your postings on this list all these years. I see you have quite a high forehead. My hair, as well as being extremely thick, grows so low in front that when I used to wear it long (many years ago) it was very difficult to keep it from falling over my face. I did once style it like the young Queen Victoria, with plaits/braids looped round my ears and the back hair in a bun. Not much use for the lady who wanted 1880s styles, though. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Dolly Varden, was Victorian gown?
Message: 11 Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2010 09:36:32 -0800 From: K?the Barrows To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] victorian gown? Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 > It looks to me like it could be a fancy-dress costume from the 1880s that > was supposed to be "colonial". I have seen some very interesting 1880s' > era fancy dress costumes; no matter the time period that was supposed to be > represented, they all had the 1880s' wasp-waisted silhouette. Dolly Varden was an 1870s play popular enough to have generated pseudo-colonial-styled dresses named after it. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolly_Varden_(costume)<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolly_Varden_%28costume%29> I think actual 1870s Dolly Varden dresses are fun, because I'm a historical purist with a warped sense of humor. But this pattern isn't one of them. -- Carolyn Kayta Barrows Actually, Dolly Varden is a character in Dickens' "Barnaby Rudge", a historical novel set in London in 1780, so just a little after what you would call "colonial"! The play must have been based on it. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor. The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What is this woman making?
Carol Kocian wrote: > I'm more curious about the woman who appears to be knitting >something lace on two needles. She has them in that "50s housewife" >position with the ends up. I don't know about '50s housewives - I was taught to knit in 1950s England with the needle ends down - but I have seen a Norwegian lady knitting in that position. As these ladies are presumably Swedish, I guess it's a Scandinavian technique. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost] Questions
Kimiko Small wrote: >A. The difference depends on time period, and simple word use. Elizabethan >>farthingales are shaped differently than Victorian crinolines, which >>differed in shape depending on the time frame. Both are different in shape >>than modern "hoops". People in general call them all "hoops". I have a page >>that shows the differences. >http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/CostumeMythsWS/myth13a.html >(I only show 1 type of farthingale and 1 type of crinoline to make my >point) Hoops were also worn (and so called) in the 18th century, in various shapes including flattened so as to project at the sides. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 9, Issue 37
Message: 2 Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2010 17:30:01 +0100 From: Eva Grennberg To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] The term "hennin" Message-ID: <85un0k$s0...@ipb1.telenor.se> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed If you don't live in the US, you need to use a US web proxy in order to read the books. At 10:00 2010-01-25, you wrote: >Robin wrote: > >If you're seeing the whole page that has "coiffet" as its first > entry, you're > >on the right page. Below that is "coiffure," which has a bunch of > subsections. > >Look in the right-hand column of that page, toward the bottom, > long paragraph > >dated 1428. > >But I'm not! By "virtual clipping" I meant a reproduction of a >section of the page not much more than an inch wide. Clicking on it >had no effect. That explains it! Ah, well, never mind, it was only idle curiosity. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor -- The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] The term "hennin"
Robin wrote: >If you're seeing the whole page that has "coiffet" as its first entry, you're >on the right page. Below that is "coiffure," which has a bunch of subsections. >Look in the right-hand column of that page, toward the bottom, long paragraph >dated 1428. But I'm not! By "virtual clipping" I meant a reproduction of a section of the page not much more than an inch wide. Clicking on it had no effect. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: The term "hennin"
It's not my area of interest, but as I can read French and am interested in words I looked at the Gay book out of curiosity. All I got when I searched on "hennin" was a virtual clipping from the book showing the word "coiffet", and I was unable to proceed further. How do you get to see the story? Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Mangle
I remember seeing a "box mangle" at Shugborough Hall in Staffordshire. It consisted of a wooden frame filled with large stones, which could be moved up and down the table on wooden rollers. I expect the very heavy weight pressed things without the need for heat. I agree with Sharon that the writer was mistaken in suggesting that garments would be mangled after ironing. My mum had a washing machine with an electric wringer in the late 1950s - in fact, she never owned a twin-tub, but went straight to a front-loading automatic when they moved to a bungalow in 1969. She even kept the old machine in a utility room for some years just for the wringer, which was useful if you had hand-washed a few small items that it wasn't worth putting on the spin cycle for. (They got their first fridge then too - the old house was Victorian and had a place cool enough to keep milk etc. fresh.) Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Asynchronous fashion photography
Melanie Schuessler wrote: >Apologies if this has been posted before, but I don't remember seeing it here. > This is a photo shoot of some of the >interpreters from Colonial Williamsburg: >http://www.history.org/Foundation/journal/Holiday06/fashion_show/ >fashionshow.html Great photos! Why is the girl in her underwear wearing black lipstick, though? Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Colour names
Marjorie Wilser wrote : What color *IS* unburnt umber? My childhood paintbox also had "raw umber" (and raw and burnt Siena). I see raw umber is listed on the site that Fran recommended. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Current project
I'm making good progress (in what little spare time I have) with my 17th century jacket. The triangular gores worked out all right in the end - thanks to all those who sent me advice. Now I need to scour the charity shops for some fur to trim the edge with. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Quiet list?
Is it me, or has the list been very quiet lately? I've not received a digest for days... Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 17c jacket sewing advice
Many thanks to everyone who sent advice on this (inserting triangular gores). I'll let you know how I get on. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 17c jacket sewing advice
Dear list, I have at last started on a long-planned project to make myself a 17th-century jacket (for when I need extra warmth). I'm using a pattern from "The cut of women's clothes" that has triangular gussets in the skirts. Now, as a not-very-competent needlewoman, I'm finding it difficult to get the points of the gussets to fit neatly. I'm only working with the lining material as yet, and have only tacked the pieces together. Can anyone offer any advice before I start sewing properly? With thanks, Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Another "view of the back" of a costume
Kneeling figures on tombs are another occasional source of back views. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Holkeboer
Laurie Taylor wrote: Also, does anyone know if there's a connection between Katherine Strand-Evans and Katherine Strand Holkeboer? Just curious. According to the Library of Congress Authority File, they are the same person. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
I don't own a dummy, but at the Sealed Knot's August Bank Holiday event at York I finally bought the woollen fabric to make the jacket I have been wanting for ages (to wear over my bodice when it's cold). Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] early 17th century stays and bodice
Zuzana, If you want a pattern for the shorter-waisted stays of the first half of the 17th century, try http://www.12eyes.co.uk/stays/stays.htm . Having a minimal figure, I find a boned bodice adequate for middle-class attire. If you want to wear separate stays, I think you would still need light boning in the bodice. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost] What period is this Butterick from?
Melody Watts wrote: >My mom's weddding dress was a Rettingcoat / Rettingote (sp) style dress >with >the under dress styled exactly like theirs. I think the word you want is Redingote, an 18th century (?) French word for a man's coat, which was a corruption of the English "riding coat". Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1960s hippie fashions
Coming late to this discussion... My recollection, as a teenager in the English Midlands, is that "maxi" (i.e. calf-length) skirts came in with the film "Bonnie & Clyde" in 1967-8. They seemed really odd at first as we were so used to mini skirts. I got my first longer dress for a family friend's wedding around 1969-70. As a (university) student in the early 70s, I was wearing full-length skirts. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question about a portrait
I had two light historical novels published back in the 70s, about the same characters. The cover of the first gave an excellent interpretation of the hero and heroine, but the second, by a different artist, simply copied a magazine photo of a reenactor to represent him, including wrong hair colour! As Elizabeth Walpole said, my first thought was that the Lady Jane Grey image must have been one of those from the Houses of Parliament. We had a discussion of a similar one of Mary Tudor a while back. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor Sharon Collier wrote: >Don't judge the book by it's cover. I have read books about black haired >heroines, which have a picture of a blonde heroine on the front. ___ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] London's Hidden Gems
Not a London expert, but I do know that it's actually Bethnal Green. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor From: Alexandria Doyle Subject: Re: [h-cost] London's Hidden Gems To: Historical Costume Message-ID: <870801590906060945p50638188o76f87ddc3087b...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 May I suggest the museum of Children in Bethel Green? I went there to see the dolls but they do have a bit of collection of children's clothing. I went several years ago, but the curator in charge of the dolls had some wonderful stories about the clothing as well, since they can document exactly what children wore these clothing (mostly Victorian era) and a bot about their life. Of course, they have some wonderful dolls, doll houses and other toys, too alex The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Mascara advice
My advice would be to look for stuff that says it's suitable for contact lens wearers; that should be tear-proof. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Headkerchiefs
Hanna Zickermann wrote: A headkerchief is an excellent foundation for a veil to be pinned onto it. My hair is extremely thin and nothing will hold in it, but a small cloth, worn like a bandana, is a good substitute for hair. It also covers all modern haircuts. I have the opposite problem; my hair is so thick and heavy that I need to wear a fringe (bangs) which looks wrong for my period (mid-17th century), and if I comb it to one side it tends to push my coif round sideways. So I have taken to wearing a forehead cloth to cover my fringe, with the coif pinned to it to keep it in place. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Peacock wedding dress
Not a wedding dress and not made of actual feathers, but are listmembers familiar with this garment (scroll down for a photo of the actual dress)? http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-vh/w-visits/w-findaplace/w-kedlestonhall/w-kedleston-collection.htm (Kedleston Hall is a few miles from where I live). Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats ....round heads...not!...maybe
I think they were designed to be worn straight. When I did 18th century re-enactment 30 years ago, we were told that soldiers' hats should be worn with the front point an inch above the left eyebrow. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor -- Message: 6 Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 21:22:27 +0930 From: "Claire Clarke" Subject: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats round heads...not! ...maybe To: Message-ID: <000601c9b909$a79da320$f6d8e9...@com.au> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Not especially my period, but were they worn straight on the head? If you wear a hat tilted back so it sits where an alice band would be, rather than around the crown of your head, then the crown of the hat can have a circular rather than oval profile. Claire The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Victorian corset on UK TV
AlbertCat wrote: >Alas I didn't see it, but was it a split busk up the front? This does indeed >enable you to put on the corset but it does not enable you to tighten it up >to its "correct" snugness. And you cannot get the thing on if the laces are >pulled up to their tight position. The split busk is actually for taking the >damn thing off more than for getting it on correctly. I stand corrected, then. I've no experience of Victorian corsets, as I do 1640s and am so skinny that I can get away with a lightly boned bodice most of the time. I thought the subject might provoke some discussion, though! Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor. The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Victorian corset on UK TV
Any UK list members see Jeremy Paxman's series on the Victorians last night? He spoke to a lady who collected Victorian ladies' costume, and much was made of the discomfort/restriction of wearing a corset. She then appeared in Victorian underwear and got Jeremy to lace up her corset, supposedly to show how a lady couldn't dress herself; however, in close-up you could clearly see the hooks in the front that should have enabled her to do so! Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor. The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost] Lobster back
I had googled "lobster back" and come up with a couple of definitions and a reenactment group's website www.lobsterback.org , so I thought the term might be known to American list members. Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote: >Evidently they at least knew of it. The original post's phrase is >"bonnets des soldats anglais surnomm?s 'lobster back;'"-- or, >hats of the English soldiers [who are] nicknamed "lobster back." >I believe the discussion has come full circle! >--Ruth Anne Baumgartner >scholar gypsy and amateur costumer >On Feb 13, 2009, at 5:05 PM, Penny Ladnier wrote: > Kate, > > This was a term used in a French fashion magazine. Although maybe > the French too used the term during the American Revolution. > > Penny Ladnier Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor. The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Lobster back
I've learned something new from this thread; I didn't know that "lobster back" was an American term for British soldiers in the 18th century. In "my" century the idea of lobsters in a military context was associated with the hardness and segmented form of their shells, not their colour. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor. The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Lobster back???
I immediately thought of the "lobster tail" helmets of the English Civil War (popularly associated with Parliamentarians but actually worn by cavalry on both sides). However, I don't think it can mean those, because it says the hat is "perched over the right ear" so it must be something small, and the "lobster" be a reference to red coats as Ruth says. All sorts of headgear were worn during the "redcoat" era, but I guess this could refer to some kind of forage cap from the late 19th century. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor -- Message: 5 Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 08:31:19 -0500 (EST) From: ruthan...@mindspring.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lobster Back??? To: Historical Costume Message-ID: <21945386.1234272680486.javamail.r...@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 What is being described is not the coat but the hat, a "tiny version of the hats of those English soldiers nicknamed 'lobster backs.'" Those would be the redcoats, the English soldiers of the 18th-19th century notorious here during the American Revolution. --R.A. Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer -Original Message- >From: Penny Ladnier >Sent: Feb 10, 2009 4:18 AM >To: h-costume >Subject: [h-cost] Lobster Back??? > >I was looking through an August 1913 issue of a French high-fashion magazine. >In the text was a description of a fashion having a lobster back. I do not >read French very well. Can someone please read the following paragraph and >let me know what is being referred to as having a lobster back. I have not >heard the term used for fashion. > >Deauville, 12 Ao?t > > > >L'un de ces manteaux, qui m'a infiniment plu, parce que r?ellement celui-l? >r?pondait ? un besoin et avait extr?mement de chic, ?tait en gros molleton un >peu dur, comme l'?toffe des vareuses de matelots; sans manches drap?, et >seulement garni de ses revers, il avant une allure inouie sur une robe de >mousseline blanche ? volants, parce qu'il ?paississait la silhouette d'une >facon voulue et cocasse, contrastant avec la t?te que coiffait un de ces >minuscules bonnets des soldats anglais surnomm?s "lobster back;" comme >celui-l?, il ?tait pos? sur l'oreille droite, compl?tement adh?rent au front >tr?s d?gag?, et piqu? d'une aigrette paradis tr?s maigre et d?mesur?ment >haute. C'?tait l? du nouveau, autant par les d?tails que par l'ensemble de >cette toilette tr?s excentrique et tout ? fait r?ussie. > > The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Stockings query
Thank you, Carol and Chris, for your posts. I thought it must mean to fold the flap that way, but the instructions I'm following say that the heel flap should reach to "the middle of the foot" which I took to mean halfway along the sole. That's why I was puzzled. Will have a go and report on my progress. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Stockings query
In some sets of instructions for knitting period stockings, you are told to "fold the heel flap in half". I'm a fairly experienced knitter, but I can't make sense of this. Can anyone advise? I assume it means to fold the flap edge-to-edge rather than to double it back on itself. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Which end of the thread?
My late aunt (born 1911) once saw me struggling with a knotted thread and told me that you should always thread the end that came off the spool. Since then I've always threaded my needle before cutting so as not to lose it. I still get knots, though! Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Sharpe's Rifles
Jordana, Is your friend interested in the Rifle Brigade uniform as worn by Sharpe himself, or in men's costumes of the Napoleonic Wars period in general? (To the person who suggested "Zulu" - that battle took place in 1879, so it's actually around 70 years later than the Peninsular War in which most of the Sharpe books and films are set!) Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 390
Beth Matney wrote: >The following two books have been released and are now shipping from >Amazon-UK. (My copies are on the way...) >The Clothing of the Renaissance World: Europe Asia Africa The >Americas: Cesare Vecellio's Habiti Antichi Et Moderni by Ann Jones, >Margaret F. Rosenthal >Hardcover: 560 pages Thames & Hudson Ltd (27 Oct 2008) ISBN-10: >0500514267 ISBN-13: 978-0500514269 >Patterns of Fashion Volume 4 ; The cut and construction of >linen shirts, smocks, neckwear, >headwear & accessories for men and women c.1540-1660. Macmillan (7 >Nov 2008) Paperback: >128 pages ISBN-10: 0333570820 ISBN-13: 978-0333570821 >Sometime back, this list discussed this new edition of Vecellio and >it has been much anticipated. I catalogued a copy (of Vecellio) for the library last week. It's beautifully presented. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 384
Linda Walton wrote: >here is an interesting article about the meaning of displaying glimpses >of underwear in different periods, with a few good illustrations >if you persevere, you will find a review of the latest Janet Arnold >"Patterns of Fashion" book, which is just being published >http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/magazine/7689554.stm Excellent, thanks, Linda! We used to say "Charlie's dead" when I was at school in the late 50s-60s, but I've not heard the phrase mentioned since. My comment on the recent "Tudors" TV series was that the women show too much hair and not enough linen. None of the leading ladies looks as though she is wearing a smock under her gown. Kate Bunting Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian, University of Derby ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What to see in the UK
Suzi Clarke wrote... -- >Tudor clothing on display in the "provinces" is very rare, and there >are not that many other collections - I cannot remember the name of >one in Wales, used to be the Snowshill Collection - maybe if >googled "Snowshill" you might find it? I think it's now at Berrington Hall, a National Trust property in Herefordshire (near the Welsh border), but it can only be visited by prior arrangement. I visit the area every year, have been round the Hall but not managed to see the costume collection. Haddon Hall in Derbyshire is worth seeing as well as Hardwick Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
