Re: [h-cost] how museums can help costumers

Then I think one of the most useful things a museum could do would be lots of photos and get some darned closeups. The pictures I looked at on the from the link you posted for the Smithsonian didn't have anything that wasn't full length - no details at all. OTOH, some pictures I've seen

Re: [h-cost] Opinions on Manesse Codex diagonal stripes

Sigh. Must reconstruct my thoughts, stupid e-mail program erased my message when I hit send. I hate Microsoft. Assuming the patterning isn't a matter of artistic license, I think this is a combination of bias use of a woven stripe fabric, and piecework (constructing fabric out of contrasting

Re: [h-cost] Words for clothes

When I explain to the lay public that I make conservation-grade mannequins for museums to display their costume collections, I usually say historic clothing collections because costume really does bring theater and Halloween to mind for most people and I find I have more explaining to do

Re: [h-cost] Preparing an exhibition of historical garments

I actually make archival mannequins for museum display. I don't know if I'm allowed to do what amounts to advertising here, so if you would like to know more, please write to me off-list. Anything you purchase as a ready made will have to be altered to fit the needs of your particular garments

Re: [h-cost] Preparing an exhibition of historical garments

Just a note-- most of the dummy suggestions given so far would be harmful to your 200 year old garments. Perfectly fine for short term display of modern stuff, but really not a good idea for clothing of historical merit. Please, please don't use them! I don't know how much you know about

Re: [h-cost] dress forms

Just be careful in museum settings-- they are not archivally sound, they outgas. Astrida From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Nordtorp-Madson, Michelle A. [manordto...@stthomas.edu] Sent: Friday, May 28, 2010 1:39

[h-cost] Fabulous web site

Check out this incredible site for 360 degree close ups of these very detailed figures from Burgundy in the early 1400s: http://www.themourners.org/ For those of you close enough to NYC, the show is at the Met until May 23, though according to reviews you may well see more detail at this web

Re: [h-cost] Brocade and Fair Use

I would also like to point out that no one ever said anything about copying the drawing to create the brocade-- the drawing is merely a visual aid to interpret images of the actual fabric! Astrida ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com

[h-cost] civility

Fran, Your actions assume much and jump to great and unsubstantiated conclusions. You do greater harm by them. Every time I decide to see if your posts have gotten less poisonous and try to read them again, I see that they have not. This is a sadness, because clearly you have great knowledge.

Re: [h-cost] Custom Brocade

I'd love to know as well-- choices where I am are extremely limited! Astrida From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova [zkraemer...@yahoo.com] Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2010 6:26 PM To: Historical

Re: [h-cost] Check out my photos on Facebook

This sounds like a phish attempt of some sort or otherwise account-hijacking event... I mean, Hi Historical Astrida From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Maggie [maggi...@gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, December 29,

Re: [h-cost] Viking alternate history--14thC/15thC Vinland?

I've been wondering-- and maybe this is something that is obvious to others, just that I've not really focused on Viking or Russian clothing. I was looking at a Russian lacquer box showing a young woman and saw the lovely dress (sarafan?) she wore and it hit me-- that's a Viking apron dress!

Re: [h-cost] Viking alternate history--14thC/15thC Vinland?

I thought current thinking is that the apron dress has sides as well. But not having the sarafan before 1600 would squash that theory... Thanks! Astrida From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Käthe Barrows

Re: [h-cost] ORGANIZATION

If you're storing the tubs in temperature extremes, you might need to consider the stability of the plastic and its outgassing effects on the contents. Just a word of caution from the textile conservation side of things... Astrida -Original

Re: [h-cost] Getting ready for Halloween

Probably the movie Gypsy with Rosalind Russell as the stage mother and Natalie Wood as Gypsy. *** Astrida Schaeffer, Exhibitions and Collections Manager Museum of Art, University of New Hampshire Paul Creative Arts Center 30 Academic Way Durham, NH 03824-3538

Re: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society

I am as well... Astrida -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of monica spence Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 5:14 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society Speaking of Janet Arnold-- Who is going

Re: [h-cost] Modest clothing, was FLDS clothing

My favorite image is of a young Amish person zooming down the road on rollerblades... There's a contrast! There's apparently a term for the youthful let them try the world period teens are allowed to have during which usual rules don't apply as much, and it's Rumspringes which is just a lovely

Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing

All that Poly is HOT in the summer. Monica Especially when worn over the requisite full-body long underwear. In Texas...While doing hard physical labor... I wonder how much heat prostration happened at the compound... Astrida ___ h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Speedos by name

-Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 8:11 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Speedos by name Oh yeah, in Australia we call them budgie smugglers, in the chorus were

Re: [h-cost] Languages - OT

I hire college students to intern in the museum for which I work, and as part of the application process I require that they submit a college-level paper so that I can see how well they write (writing is part of the job). And the one person who wrote the most beautifully in the seven years I've

Re: [h-cost] WAS Sorry, had to laugh, NOW costume in NH

Not to glory in your pain, but I'm very relieved to hear this--the husband and I recently decided for sure NOT to move to WA (going to NH instead!) and we both get pressure/weather migraines. Sour grapes and all, but I'm glad to have one less reason not to regret our decision! -E

Re: [h-cost] WAS Sorry, had to laugh, NOW costume in NH

Oh, I forgot-- there's a living history museum in Portsmouth too, Strawbery Banke (that was what the original settlers called the place when they came over in the early 1600s, because of the wild strawberries growing everywhere). They have a new exhibition space with occasional costume shown,

Re: [h-cost] costume in NH

Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 3:06 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume in NH - Original Message - From: Schaeffer, Astrida [EMAIL PROTECTED] Where in NH? I'll be within commuting distance of Dartmouth, but I'm willing to drive a few hours to get my costuming

Re: [h-cost] costume in NH

use for the Estrup renaissance dress i am going to make, ben looking so manny places without any results. I am glad this shop isnt here in Copenhagen :-) Bjarne - Original Message - From: Schaeffer, Astrida [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday

Re: [h-cost] Les Adieaux en miniature

Bjarne, as always, your work is inspiring... Astrida *** Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director The Art Gallery, University of New Hampshire Paul Creative Arts Center 30 College Road Durham, NH 03824-3538 603-862-0310 FAX: 603-862-2191 www.unh.edu/art-gallery

Re: [h-cost] Help! Please! Cultural Dancers in Costumes

: Schaeffer, Astrida I'm thinking #14 would be more Hungarian than Polish-- I've never seen such aprons on a Polish costume-- But in truth I fear the task will be made that much more difficult by the liberties taken by the artist. For example the red strapless front-lace bustier garment in #14

Re: [h-cost] Help! Please! Cultural Dancers in Costumes

I'm thinking #14 would be more Hungarian than Polish-- I've never seen such aprons on a Polish costume-- But in truth I fear the task will be made that much more difficult by the liberties taken by the artist. For example the red strapless front-lace bustier garment in #14 is sheer

RE: [h-cost] material for Russian coat

Hi-- I have just discovered a local store geared toward the craft of hooked and needle-punched and braided rugs-- which uses wool cut into narrow strips. So in this age of polar fleece, there's a store chock-full of wools of all weights and colors, year-round! I suggest she look for something

RE: [h-cost] Re:Finding Information

That does sound like a fun find, but do please be very careful of such tertiary sources (overviews and fact books that aren't actually from the period in question and just summarize information from sources which themselves MIGHT refer to the original primary source, but who knows?), especially

RE: [h-cost] 1867 Washington DC Fashion question

It sounds to me like they were doing a historically-themed event... Possibly the marquise style references the Marquise de Pompadour? Though the neck ribbon (if just a simple ribbon)is definitely from the 1790s... Not that blending times in reenactments never happens! ; ) Astrida

RE: [h-cost] Dress and textile topics, medieval Britain: Your wishlist

My suggestion isn't so much the headwords as something to include alongside the headwords-- their counterparts in other languages. For example, it's braies in French, but breeches in English, Bruche in German, and what about Italian, Portuguese, Spanish, etc.? Astrida

RE: [h-cost] Dress and textile topics, medieval Britain: Your wishlist

Arts Center 30 College Road Durham, NH 03824-3538 603-862=0310 FAX: 603-862-2191 www.unh.edu/art-gallery *** -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Schaeffer, Astrida Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 4:08 PM

RE: [h-cost] wedding in historical costumes

Ah, yes, the kowtow scene in King and I springs to mind A personal pet peeve is brides stomping around in their gowns because they never wear skirts and don't know how to move in them... hoop or no hoop... Astrida -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of [EMAIL

RE: [h-cost] costume photos

Look, I don't live for the approval of email lists, OK? I coule care less if people think I'm nicey-nice. Fran I don't think anyone was talking about approval or being thought of as nicey-nice. Manners would have been appreciated, though. I am going to take your own advice and delete future

RE: [h-cost] ruffs on the head?

If you're talking about the woman on the right, that's not a ruff per se, but rather a goffered veil, where a small ruffle has been woven into the edge of the veil as part of the cloth (there are a number of theories on how this was done) and the cloth is folded back and forth over the head a few

RE: [h-cost] Frilled-edge veils (was: ruffs on the head?)

THANKS, Robin, those are great links!! I have a Danish friend and I've just asked her if she could translate for us. Might take a little while, but probably sooner than getting the busy people at the Center to get to it... So nice to see these; commercial variants are now available in the US

RE: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?

I need to go back to the actual source again (as opposed to the info as it currently appears in my chapter) but if I recall correctly (and I last looked at this 2 years ago) there was the element in the trial that he was convicted because of the need to remove braies from his victim, that if

RE: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?

Anyway, I -DID- run across a rape trial account where the man was convicted because he'd had to pull the girl's braies down before he could do the deed. Had there been no braies, her status as an innocent in the proceedings would have been in question. I'd be very interested in more

RE: [h-cost] comfort vs. fashion

And there you go-- this is so totally subjective. I don't mind pantyhose at all (except on really hot days). Astrida ** Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director The Art Gallery University of New Hampshire Paul Creative Arts Center 30 College Road Durham, NH 03824 (603) 862-0310

RE: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?

** -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Schaeffer, Astrida Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 9:52 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: RE: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women? Anyway, I -DID- run across a rape trial account where the man

RE: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?

There are images out there aplenty of women's hiked skirts showing chausses-- and they tend to be knee-high. The Egerton Genesis has drawings of Dinah being raped in the market and her leg is exposed-- definitely knee-high. The various Tacuinum (Tacuinae?) also have women showing a bit of leg here

RE: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?

As it happens I'm working on a book too, only pesky life keeps getting in the way of completion. Sigh. Anyway, I -DID- run across a rape trial account where the man was convicted because he'd had to pull the girl's braies down before he could do the deed. Had there been no braies, her status

RE: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne,

, Schaeffer, Astrida wrote: The phrase: Vom Ochsen seind drei und achtzigerlei Speise und Trachten zu machen Well, my German mother thinks Trachten is still clothing in this context, as that's the term for folk clothing. Specifically for this case, the leather pants that comprise part

RE: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne,

I've asked my native-German-speaking mother who also studied old German in grad school if she has any insight. But German capitalizes nouns, so I agree with everyone who's said so far that in this context, Trachten is definitely a noun Astrida

RE: [h-cost] WOT Bjarne,

The phrase: Vom Ochsen seind drei und achtzigerlei Speise und Trachten zu machen Well, my German mother thinks Trachten is still clothing in this context, as that's the term for folk clothing. Specifically for this case, the leather pants that comprise part of the gear. This could then

RE: [h-cost] What I (horrifically) wore

Think about it... And what did you wear when you were young that horrified your parents? Hot pink velour hip-hugger bell-bottoms... That were from the thrift shop and were waaay too short (but I loved them for some obscure reason and so didn't care). And it was 7th grade in 1975, my first year

RE: [h-cost] Re: youtube film

My biggest issue was the jumping around in time. Stylistically/fashion-wise, that kept bugging me! Astrida ** Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director The Art Gallery University of New Hampshire Paul Creative Arts Center 30 College Road Durham, NH 03824 (603) 862-0310 [EMAIL

RE: [h-cost] RE: Off Topic: What's your day job?; Was: robe a la francaise grande panier.

Costume is what I can't help going on ad nauseam about with anyone who makes the mistake of asking about my passions. During the day, I work in a small university art museum, handling shipping, insurance, etc. details for exhibitions, doing the physical shoving about of walls and painting and

RE: [h-cost] Florence 2008

That's great, thank you for checking! If anyone's starting a list, please add me to it-- luckily, it falls between exhibition installations at work so I can go!! Astrida Schaeffer -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Kathy Page Sent: Tue 6/5/2007 4:46 PM To:

RE: [h-cost] Closure on June gown

Years ago, new to reenacting, I made one of these, too. My skill level was much lower then. I basically made a t-tunic and made sure to make it too small, so the front opening was necessary. I no longer have the thing but I do remember that it was easy to make and the lacing did all the fitting

RE: [h-cost] Closure on June gown

If you're young, perky, and lucky, you may have something of the fashionable silhouette all on your own without the dress doing it for you, and a shaped dress will approximate the look. If you aren't young and perky, you'll need the dress to do more work, and that's where you get into the

RE: [h-cost] Translation help

Another vote for the hand version. Hand conveys a lot more than feel-- I guess I think of feel as being part of the qualities you get from hand! Astrida ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

RE: [h-cost] 1350 - detachable sleeves?

Thanks, Robin... What about Stella Mary Newton's reference to the captive French king in 1360, (p. 58): The clothes consisted of a suit of three garments: cote, surcote, housee and hood, with two pairs of sleeves for the cote, all in violet cloth in grain; a dressing gown-- mantel a lever de

RE: [h-cost] tippets

of Robin Netherton Sent: Thu 3/15/2007 10:59 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: RE: [h-cost] tippets On Thu, 15 Mar 2007, Schaeffer, Astrida wrote: There -are- examples of tippets in other colors, and some are sure drawn or painted in a truly light and fluttery way that seems to imply delicate

RE: [h-cost] tippets

It looks like Revival Clothing has interpreted the turned-back, white-fur-lined cuff with its pendant strip as a pinned-on accessory rather than the more accurate short-sleeve dress cuff with dangling tail. I know in this case you used that image to show what you meant, rather than as evidence,

RE: [h-cost] tippets

Current scholarship is that they aren't a separate accessory at all-- they're the vestigial long pointy sleeve (morphed over time into a thin streamer) as seen hanging from a short-sleeved overdress. That's why they're so often white (and so often with little black specks)-- that's the ermine