Re: KR> get-together in the South

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

The Rebel has slightly weird flying characteristics.  Give me a call tomorrow and I can fill you in on some of the details.Brian Kraut904-536-1780br...@eamanuacturing.com


 Original Message 
Subject: Re: KR> get-together in the South
From: Flesner via KRnet 
Date: Thu, January 03, 2019 4:43 pm
To: krnet@list.krnet.org
Cc: Flesner 


I too am out for this weekend.  Trying to get over a cold and if I'm up 
to flying, try taming a Murphy Rebel that likes to go bounce, bounce, 
bounce on landings.  I can't get a clean stall break at altitude and I 
think I'm running out of up elevator.  The stick is bottomed out in my 
lap and then the mains hit, the tail goes down, and it's flying again, 
momentarily, then repeat about three times and finally gives it up. 
Murphy has an advisory for the Rebel with the 0-320 about moving the 
C.G. envelope back and I'm adding weight to the baggage area.  We'll get 
it figured out eventually.

Larry Flesner


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Re: KR> fuel flow sensors

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

I had the Flight Data FC-10 in my Mustang and really liked it a lot.  Run your GPS into it and it will also give you miles remaining.  I only removed it because I was putting in a GRT EFIS with fuel flow.Brian Kraut904-536-1780br...@eamanuacturing.com


 Original Message 
Subject: Re: KR> fuel flow sensors
From: Flesner via KRnet 
Date: Tue, December 18, 2018 3:34 pm
To: Mark Langford via KRnet 
Cc: Flesner 

See https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/eift60.php for "The
Cube" fuel flow meter.  Looks like it meets your criteria, and
previously recommended by other KRnetHeads.  Adapt whatever you want to
the female NPT ports.



This one looks like the least expensive way to go for sensor and 
instrument. 
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/flightdatafc10.php?recfer=22092

I'm only looking for the one feature, fuel flow, not all the rest of 
features.

Larry


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KR> Philidelphia KR for sale

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

A friend of mine sent me this link because he was possibly interested in buying this, but then changed his mind.  I am sharing it here in case anybody else might be interested in it.  This is not my plane so please click on the link and contact the seller, not me.Some brief info I got from the seller when I spoke to him is that it has a VW 2182 he built of Great Plains parts.  Has one mag and bosch distributer secondary ignition.  It has the Force 1 hub and forged crank.He told me that the gear collapsed on his first landing due to the original gear latch mechanism not working like it should, but he repaired the damage and redesigned the latch mechanism.  He had a prop strike, but did not tear down the engine.  He said that he has put something like 14 hours IIRC on the plane since then.Has a not working transponder and radio.  Says he is selling because he lost his medical.  This is a standard KR-2 and has the old airfoil.That is all I know.  Again, not my plane, don't know the owner, please click the link and contact him directly.https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/avo/d/experimental-kr2-semi-retract/6695428127.htmlBrian Kraut904-536-1780br...@eamanuacturing.com

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Re: KR> Painting the engine mount

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

Powder coating is much better and will never come off or scratch, but is expensive.  Fortunately for me my neighbor is friends with the guy that owns our local powder coat shop.As Larry said, rattle can paint can work good also.  When I paint metal parts I use engine enamel in a spray can and I bake it on after it is dry which really toughens it up.  Wife got mad when she caught me using the kitchen oven and making the house smell and literally drug the oven out the front door so now I use a heat gun or at least make sure she won't be home before the smell goes away.Brian Kraut904-536-1780br...@eamanuacturing.com


 Original Message 
Subject: Re: KR> Painting the engine mount
From: Flesner via KRnet 

The rattle can "engine paint" from AutoZone seems to be holding up well 
on my mount after nearly 20 years and 700 hours.  "Lifetimes" are still 
just measured in years.

Larry Flesner






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Re: KR> KR Gathering 2018 RoundUp Posted

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

Some beautiful KRs this year.  Sorry I missed it.Not sure when the date for next year is decided, but Trippletree is around the same timeframe.  I don't know when they announce the dates for theirs, but we be good if they don't land at the same time. Brian Kraut904-536-1780br...@eamanuacturing.com


 Original Message 
Subject: KR> KR Gathering 2018 RoundUp Posted
From: John Bouyea via KRnet 

The 2018 photos that I took are now posted online.
We still have more updates like scheduling volunteers for the 2019 event
coming.




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Re: KR> Epoxy

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

You really should give EZPoxy a try.  I have tried the all and find it by far the best.  Dug up my old comparison here: https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/msg01666.htmlBrian Kraut904-536-1780br...@eamanuacturing.com


 Original Message 
Subject: KR> Epoxy
From: mark jones via KRnet 
Date: Mon, September 17, 2018 10:36 am
To: krnet@list.krnet.org
Cc: mark jones 

What are the pros and cons of Aeropoxy vs West Systems epoxy.  Are they equal for wetting out wing skins?

Mark Jones
Oldsmar, Fl
www.flykr2s.com
flyk...@gmail.com






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Re: KR> WunderBird update,

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

Looking great Mark!

Am I the only one thinking the wing attach brackets should bolt to the
spar with six bolts instead of four?  IIRC, that is the way the Diehl
mounted.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: KR> WunderBird update,
From: mark jones via KRnet 
Date: Wed, September 12, 2018 2:00 pm
To: KRnet 
Cc: mark jones 

Hello all,
I am continuing to make good progress on my WunderBird. You may see some
of
my progress by going to the bottom of the page at this link:
http://flykr2s.com/WunderBird.html

And yes I am very envious of all of you that are headed to the
Gathering.

Mark Jones
Oldsmar, FL

flyk...@gmail.com
www.flykr2s.com
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Re: KR> Mogas Testing (Mogas Blues continued)

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

Earlier in this thread there was talk of mixing ethanol containing mogas
with water to remove the ethanol.  That does remove the ethanol from the
fuel (not sure if it removes 100%, but it does remove a lot of it), but
there is still one problem.  From what I have researched, the ethanol
they normally use is 113 octane.  If you remove the ethanol from 87
octane mogas you are left with 85 octane.  Not sure if there are other
considerations, but I would not be doing science experiments with the
gas I am using in my airplane if I was not some kind of expert in fuels
and knew exactly what I was doing.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com

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Re: KR> Mogas Testing (Mogas Blues continued)

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

Earlier in this thread there was talk of mixing ethanol containing mogas with water to remove the ethanol.  That does remove the ethanol from the fuel (not sure if it removes 100%, but it does remove a lot of it), but there is still one problem.  From what I have researched, the ethanol they normally use is 113 octane.  If you remove the ethanol from 87 octane mogas you are left with 85 octane.  Not sure if there are other considerations, but I would not be doing science experiments with the gas I am using in my airplane if I was not some kind of expert in fuels and knew exactly what I was doing.Brian Kraut904-536-1780br...@eamanuacturing.com

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Re: KR> vinyl ester thinning

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

Not sure if you have worked with VE resin before, but it is already
pretty much water thin.  I can't imagine wanting to thin it any more. 
That is one of the reasons I don't like to work with it unless you are
doing it in a mold because it is so thin it does not do a good job
filling in the holes in the weave of the cloth where a thicker resin
bridges the gaps better.

I also agree with Larry that sloshing sealer is not very good on VE.  I
bought some years ago to slosh a KR tank.  I tried it on the inside of a
part of the tank I cut out which was fairly smooth and it did not stick
well and could easily peel off and get in the fuel system.  Probably
would have been OK if I could have sanded the inside of the tank, but
there was no access.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: KR> vinyl ester thinning
From: jeb via KRnet 
Date: Fri, July 20, 2018 1:04 pm
To: Mark Langford via KRnet , KRnet

Cc: jeb 

If I was wanting to "slosh" with vinyl ester how to thin it?
acetone?

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Re: KR> Kr waterproofing

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

The best tape to use is 3M 471 tape.  You can find it many places online
in different widths and you can also find it locally at some automotive
paint supply stores.  My local Finishmaster store carries it.  It is
also the best tape to use for paint masking because paint won't wick
under it like masking tape.  It is also the standard tape that aircraft
racers use to seal up gaps before a race because it peels off easy
without hurting paint, but will stay in place at 200+ MPH.

For another solution consider a canopy cover.  I made one for my KR with
Sunbrella brand canvas.  I used a flanel on the inside sewed to the
canvas to keep from scratching the canopy.  You can buy the canvas,
straps, buckles, heavy duty canvas thread, etc. from online canvas
supply stores.  Mine turned out great and it was my first time trying to
sew canvas.  Only experience before that was home ec class in 8th grade.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: KR> Kr waterproofing
From: Mike Sylvester via KRnet 
Date: Sat, July 14, 2018 8:08 pm
To: KRnet 
Cc: Mike Sylvester 

Hey guys, What are you using to keep water out of your KR when you have
to park it outside ? I'm thinking some kind of tape that will not pull
off the paint or leave glue residue. Electrical tape ?


Mike Sylvester
kr2s builder
Birmingham,AL.

Cell no.205-966-3854
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Re: KR> Gear legs

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

To add a bit more to what Larry recommends on lengthening the legs, I
don't know if Steve will sell longer legs, but I would expect to pay a
hefty premium for them.  I spoke to Dan Diehl years ago and he told me
that he buys the scotchply sheets in 4' X 8' pieces so they are cut down
to get 24" blanks.  Making one set of longer legs means wasting some of
the sheet so the cost to him was double what a 24" leg would be since he
wound up with an unusable 20" of wasted material if he made one 30" set.
 Certainly doable, just don't think Steve is ripping you off if he
charges you double to legs only a few inches longer.  Of course, if you
can find a set of Grumman legs to cut down the price is good.

When I was working on my last 2S I had changed several things in the
gear geometry so I got an uncut 24" blank from Dan and welded my own
brackets with the lower steel bracket being a bit longer.  I also
changed the angle of the legs to a bit more vertical which gave me a
taller stance for the same length of leg.


Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



At this point I'll toss in my opinion on the gear.  Anyone building a 
2S, with tail wheel and using Diehl type gear, and making them from the 
larger gear blanks should make them longer than 24 inches for a better 3

point stance.  Jeff Scott and I have 30 inch legs and I like it that 
way. https://www.dropbox.com/s/wb9mahqklj8540o/100_.JPG?dl=0

28 inches might also be a good length.  Just my opinion.

Larry Flesner

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Re: KR> Projects for sale?

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

Good to hear it Mark.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: KR> Projects for sale?
From: Mark Jones via KRnet 
Date: Fri, March 23, 2018 6:12 am
To: "KR Net" 
Cc: Mark Jones 

Hello fellow KR’ers. I am in the mood to build another KR. Now that I
am retired and have lots of time I am looking for those who wish to sell
their projects. Please email me directly at flyk...@gmail.com and let me
know what you have for sale. Photos and detailed description would be
beneficial. Thanks 

Mark Jones 
Oldsmar, FL


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Re: KR> Flutter

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

Below is a copy of what I posted to the group in 2008 with better
instructions for the flutter testing than I just posted a few minutes
ago.  Read it as Bud wrote it, not as I botched it in the previous
email.

This is probably a good time to bring up flutter testing.  I have
attached
some excerpts from emails with Bud Davisson about flutter testing on the
Midget Mustang.  Most of you will recognize who Bud is.  Aside from
being
probably one of the best know aviation authors, quasi test pilot, owner
of
the Bearhawk company, and one of the leading experts on the Pitts, he is
also an aeronautical engineer.  He knows what he is talking about.


Most people flying experimentals don't know a lot about flutter or how
to do
flutter testing.  Most people think you just get up fast and if flutter
does
not start that anything up to that speed is O.K.  That is not the case. 
You
can fly right past your flutter speed and not even know it.  Then
someday
you can be flying at your critical flutter speed and you can get
flutter.
The Midget Mustang has a well doccumented precursor to flutter that is
referred to as "shudder".  Many people including me have had shudder in
the
stang.  It is very scary, but it does not cause your airframe to get
ripped
apart like full fleged flutter.  Most planes do not have this early
warning.
On most planes it just starts full fleged flutter and the next thing you
know is that your wings have ripped off and you are kissing your ass
goodbye.

I have seen myself how improper flutter testing can fool you into
thinking
you are safe all the way up to red line.  When I did my initial testing
I
did Vne testing going up a little at a time on a calm day and just
inching
my speed up and making sure I didn't feel anything unusual.  I got up to
230
and figured that was all I wanted and as long as I kept it below that
speed
that I would be fine.

A few weeks later I did a high speed low pass at 190 on a day with just
a
little turbulance.  The shudder started and scared me near to death.  I
didn't know about shudder at the time and I fully expected the plane to
disintigrate.  That one ranks on the very top of my pucker list.  I had
the
same thing happen on another occasion about the same speed in light
turbulance and it was just as scary.  If the Stang did not have this
early
warning I wold have probably been dead the first time from improper
flutter
testing.

The correct way as Bud explains is to do the stick tap test.  It was
also
explained by the RV test pilot at the first Mt Vernon gathering.  You
need
to increase your speed 2 MPH at a time and give a quick slap to the
stick to
excite the ailerons.  The stick should snap back then dampen out very
quickly.  You go up in speed slowly just until you see a change in the
dampening response then stop.  I have verified this on the Stang to be
just
a little slower than the speed where I saw the shudder.  I have since
made
some mods to move the ballance weights a little further forward and
decrease
the aileron weight.  I have also done some mods to take some play out of
the
system.  I know have done the tap testing to 215 with no problems.  I
won't
fly another plane again at a speed that I have not done proper flutter
testing up to.

Oh, and I am certainly not saying that anyone should use this technique
to
try flying at a higher than recommended Vne.  I am just saying that you
should properly test up to Vne before you just blindly go flying at that
speed.

Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com

-Original Message-
From: m1-must...@yahoogroups.com [mailto:m1-must...@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Budd Davisson
Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2005 1:35 AM
To: m1-must...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: Shudder, was [M1-Mustang] engines/


No. What you're looking for is a change in damping. You'll be tapping it
at
the different speeds and every time the stick should return to neutral,
overshoot, return and overshoot again but a little less each time. It'll
probably take two or three cycles to damp out. What you're looking for
is a
change from the last increment. You tap it as before, but instead of
damping
out in two cycles it takes three or four. When that happens, don't go to
the
next increment. The damping is falling off and the next increment could
be
the one where it lets go.

bd

Brian Kraut wrote:

I have heard of the tap test before.  Will you generally always get a
slight
flutter that you will recognize before you get to the critical speed or
can
you creep up 2 knots, tap the stick, and wind up with the bad scary
flutter
that I had no intentions of seeing again?

Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com

-Original Message-
From: m1-must...@yahoogroups.com [mailto:m1-must...@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Budd Davisson
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2005 9:12 PM
To: m1-must...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: Shudder, was [M1-Mustang] engines/


Flutter isn't caused purely by speed. It needs to be "excited" to kick
off
then so

Re: KR> Flutter

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

Bud Davisson, who is about one of the most respected people in aviation,
had some recommendations on the Midget Mustang group several years ago. 
He said you want to simultaneously pull power, pull the nose up, and
load the ailerons.  By loading the ailerons you bank, I guess the theory
is to have the linkage pushing one way while airflow is pushing the
other way instead of leaving them free to flutter.  So basically yank
and bank.  Put a few G load on the wings to rapidly decrease speed.  I
didn't say yank them off though.

He also gave instructions for finding your flutter speed which involves
slowly increasing your speed and tapping on side of the the stick.  It
should move when you tap and then bounce back to neutral without
overshoot.  As soon as it starts to vary from that motion you are
approaching your flutter speed and you need to stop there.

What many don't realize about flutter is that you might accelerate right
past your flutter speed without even realizing you are there.  A little
bump on the aileron or slight bit of turbulance can start the chain
reaction that can start flutter and rip your wings right off with no
warning before you even have a chance to recover.  Just because you did
a 230 MPH flyby in the past is no guarantee that you won't be at 220
next time and hit the little bump that makes you a statistic.  If you
have not done the stick tap test in 5 MPH increments, preferably at
altitude and with a chute then you have no business flying in those
speeds.  I am not saying that you need to keep testing until you find
the flutter speed if you start getting nervous, but if you stop your
testing at 200, don't be doing low passes at 220, do them at 195.

I will try to find his email and repost it here.  I think I might have
done it many years ago if someone could be so kind as to try and find it
in the archives.

Several things will increase the speed at which you will get aileron
flutter.  One is the design of the wing and aileron system which we have
little control of.  One is making sure the aileron is balanced, and that
means balanced after it is painted.

Another is making the mass of the aileron and balance weight as light as
you can. I have said here many times that when you do the balance weight
you want to use as little weight as you can which means in order to
balance a given weight of aileron you need the mass of the weight as far
from the hinge point as you can get it.  Jim Faughn had balance weights
that were shaped like small bricks and were so heavy one broke off at a
gathering.  There was a lot of weight close to the hinge line as opposed
to making it tear drop shaped with more weight further from the hinge
point.  Also, make the aileron light weight so you don't need as much
weight to balance it and so the whole aileron and balance mass is lower.
 Aileron in one layer of carbon fiber and foam sanded with extra care so
no dips needing a lot of filler goes a long way to a strong and light
aileron.  don't use extra epoxy here.

Stiffness also helps.  Again, I would use carbon fiber for aileron even
if I was making wing out of glass.  Obviously glass has worked well for
years, but if you are going to insist on flying past design speed you
may be pushing your luck.  

No slack or flex in the aileron system.  On my Midget mustang the rod
ends had no slack, but you could clamp one aileron to the wing and flex
the other several inches up and down.  The skin on the sides of the
fusalage where the belcranks were mounted would flex a bit which led to
lots of flex possible over the entire system.  I always clamp two boards
on one wing and aileron on all planes not and look for play and flex in
the system.  Most people have never done that and you might be shocked
at what you find.

The Midget Mustang had a pre-flutter condition known as shudder.  It was
a lower frequency form of not full developed flutter.  Flutter is more
of a buzz that does not last long before parts start departing the
airplane.  Most planes don't exhibit shudder to give you a warning, they
just flutter and then come apart.  I have experienced shudder in my
Midget Mustang and, yep, the first time was during a high speed pass
trying to impress people.  I can tell you that there is no amount of
scaring the crap our of yourself that compares with this.  That was
before I learned more about shudder and flutter.  After that I moved my
balance weights further from the hinge line and removed the flex and did
the stick tap test which moved my flutter speed way up and I made sure
to not approach that speed again. 

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: Re: KR> Flutter
From: Kayak via KRnet 
Date: Sat, January 13, 2018 10:15 am
To: KRnet 
Cc: Kayak 

I brought up flutter recovery several months ago from someone who had
encountered it, and again under this thread.

I wish we could discuss recovery. My late friend said to me (some 30
years ago), not to apply ANY contro

Re: KR> aileron balancing

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

I also used a plaster of paris mold that was baked to remove moisture. 
I believe that I used clay to mold the plaster of paris.  I melted the
lead on my stove in an old cat food can.

Be sure that most of your weight is far from the hinge line so you can
get the aileron using as little weight as possible.  Mine were basically
tear drop shaped with just enough lead on the front half to attach
securely to the arm.  I think I used two steel T nuts in the lead to
secure to the arm.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: Re: KR> aileron balancing
From: Parley T Byington via KRnet 
Date: Fri, December 15, 2017 11:23 am
To: "krnet@list.krnet.org" 
Cc: Parley T Byington 

Dec.15,2017
Subject: Lead aileron castings

To whom it may concern;

I calculated the size/weight needed then made a mold using plaster paris
of that calculation.

I heated the mold in the oven to prevent steam explosions prior to
pouring the liquified lead into the mold.

Once the mold was heated to 450 degrees I poured the melted lead (using
proper face shield, gloves, and full body heavy clothing to cover all
exposed skin surfaces) into the mold and let cool. I then shaved the
lead weights using a sure file to get the weight to the exact amount
needed to counter the aileron and perfectly balance it.

Be very careful when pouring molten lead into plaster molds that the
mold has been sufficiently heated so that all water is gone or it WILL
EXPODE in your face throwing molten lead in all directions !

Another alternative is to use heavy paper/cardboard to form a square
mold to pour the molten lead into, the sides can be taped together using
ordinary masking tape, several layers, without the tape burning through
until the lead solidifies. I have used both types of molds.

Hope this is of some help

Signed A Vietnam veteran
Parley Byington
Kr-2 N54PB
byington1...@embarqmail.com
Henderson Nevada

On Dec 15, 2017, at 10:08, jeb via KRnet  wrote:

> I'm not satisfied with the lead weights I cast oh so many years ago.
> So, polling the list - what did you use to make the mold?
> 
> 
> 
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Re: KR> Two Battery System

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

Second Jeff's recommendation on the EarthX batteries.  They do have the
onboard smarts you describe.  I did a lot of looking around before I
added an avionics backup battery for my Mustang 2 and EarthX was clearly
the best.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: Re: KR> Two Battery System
From: Tony King via KRnet 
Date: Tue, September 26, 2017 5:53 pm
To: KRnet 
Cc: Tony King 

Hi Owen,

Most of the stuff you'll find around will be for lead acid batteries.
Not
all LiFePO4 batteries are drop in replacements for lead acid, even
though
most are marketed that way. Make sure the LiFePO4 batteries you choose
have
the inbuilt smarts to tolerate whatever alternator/regulator combination
you have. rnet.org

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Re: KR> Subaru EA81

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

Did that a few months ago in a Murphy Rebel that blew the prop shaft
seal and blew out most of the oil, lots of it on the windshield.  Not
something I would recommend.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: Re: KR> Subaru EA81
From: Mark Langford via KRnet 


Imagine flying a plane on its first flight, with a plan to go 
to altitude, determine IAS stall speed so you'll have a clue of landing 
speed, getting used to how the plane flies and responds to input, but 
you never get there. 300' off the ground it boils over and blows steam 
all over the canopy, and the temp gauge is in the red. You are 
completely screwed.le...@list.krnet.org

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Re: KR> Gathering location?

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

Speaking of gatherings, will any of you be at Trippletree this year?  It
is September 6-10 in SC and is one of the best flyins around.  I did not
make it last year, but plan to go this year in my Mustang 2.  It is very
big, but easy to fly in and out of. 

Details at http://www.tripletreeaerodrome.com/

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com

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Re: KR> KR Gathering Location

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

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KR> OT, IA near Buffalo, NY

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

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Re: KR> Firewall fabrication

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

Thinnest Spruce sells is .016, but that is not that much more weight.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/firewall_sheet2.php


Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: Re: KR> Firewall fabrication
From: "Virgil N. Salisbury via KRnet" 
Date: Fri, July 21, 2017 5:41 am
To: Clyde Baker via KRnet 
Cc: "Virgil N. Salisbury" 


 Firewall kit should be available from A S & S or Wicks.
 This would be Stainless and Fibrefrax, Virg

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Re: KR> KR Project For Sale/ Oregon

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

Sorry to see you sell it John, but somebody is going to get one hell of
a good deal on that plane.  I would snap it up at that price if I wasn't
so far away.  Free delivery to Florida?


Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: KR> KR Project For Sale/ Oregon
From: John Bouyea via KRnet 
Date: Sat, July 15, 2017 3:02 pm
To: "KRnet" 
Cc: John Bouyea 

Too many projects. I am selling a tri-gear KR2 built with a KR2S canopy
and
raised turtle deck. I'm 6'2" and I fit!

http://bouyea.net/cur_proj/KR2Project/index.htm 

 

John Bouyea
N5391M/ KR2


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Re: KR> N269 7.6 Hour Data Download

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

I think you will find after you have a lot more time on the plane and
start to fly it loaded at different C.G. locations that you will want an
adjustable elevator trim tab, but wait and see first.  You also might
want adjustable aileron trim when you start taking passengers, but if
so, a simple spring or bungee trim system vs. a tab will be enough. 
Might also be able to do that on the elevator trim with good results,
but not sure that I have seen that on a KR before.  Although the
elevator forces are so light that you barely need trim it is good to
have adjustable trim so you can take your hand off the stick now and
then.

I would look at that spinner right away if it is causing vibration.  As
others have found, a slight vibration on the spinner can very quickly
become a broken spinner which can also lead to prop damage or worse.


Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: KR> N269 7.6 Hour Data Download
From: Joe Nunley via KRnet 
Date: Tue, June 27, 2017 6:13 am


Things that I have learned in 7.6 Hours of flight:

Trim Tabs; trim tabs are not something that you think about until you
build
your first plane. With the information that Mark sent me and the input
from all of you my plane now has fixed trim tabs that work great. I
determined that my aircraft was originally set up for a VW engine and I
installed a Continental, witch explains the large trim tab on the
elevator.


Vibration; I have a very slight vibration at cruse flight. I know it's
an
airplane, but I believe that the spinner that I made has a slight
wobble.


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Re: KR> Turnbuckle installation

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

The better turnbuckle barrels have a witness hole in them.  As long as
the threads engage enough that you can't see all the way through the
hole or poke a piece of safety wire through them you have enough
threaded in.

According to this site you should have no more than three threads
showing which looks about right to me. 
http://www.experimentalaircraft.info/articles/aircraft-building-5.php

If you are short you can buy longer ends.  Hopefully one end is a fork
or something other than a ring end with a cable swaged so you can change
it.  Not sure if you can buy longer barrels or not, but I think I have
seen them in different lengths.  Best place I know for buying both
complete turnbuckles and the separate parts is B&B Aircraft Supplies in
KS.  If you are not sure of exactly what you need call there and talk to
Joe Brull.  He is very helpful.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



- Original Message - 
From: "Paul Visk via KRnet" 
To: "KR EMAIL BOARD" 


> I'm trying to finish up my rigging of my ailerons. I might have one cable 
> too long and one too short. I'm looking in 43.13 and the dark web for the 
> maximum and minimum insertion of the ends with no luck. All I see is how 
> to safety wire turnbuckles. And no luck contacting my tech advisor who is 
> an A&PI. Does anyone know.


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Re: KR> Tail versus nose dragger

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

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Re: KR> Tail Wheel Authority

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

I have flown well over a dozen different types of taildraggers and some
turn slightly better one way than the other due to alignment issues with
the tailwheel or a little less slack on one tailwheel chain or the
other, but I have never seen a noticeable difference at low speed that
could not be attributed to the tailwheel not moving the same amount in
both directions.

I suggest putting something under the tail so the wheel is off the
ground and having someone in the plane give you full rudder in each
direction while you hold the tailwheel and see if it is really moving
the same amount in both directions while you put some tension against
it.  Also look and see if the wheel is vertical.  I have had issues with
a slight twist to one side.

What kind of tailwheel do you have?  Is it the original plans design or
a modern tailwheel that unlocks and full swivels?  If so, do it unlock
at the same point in both directions?

Are you using some brake on the inside of the sharper turns?

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: KR> Tail Wheel Authority
From: bjoenunley via KRnet 
Date: Mon, June 19, 2017 1:28 pm
To: KRnet 
Cc: bjoenunley 

Dear Airplane Drivers,
In your tail wheel aircraft; at low taxi speeds, does one direction have
more turn authority than another?Left pedal for continentals and right
pedal for VW etc.
Sometimes i can barely turn right when taxiing (Continental).  Wondered
if my tail wheel is so light that it doesn't grab the grass against the
engine torque or something else?
Joe Nunley Baker Florida 

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Re: KR> home-brew thermocouples...for cheap!

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

Can you send the link to the wire you used.  I assume you twisted the
ends and then just melted a tiny blob on the end with no rod, correct?



Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: KR> home-brew thermocouples...for cheap!
From: Mark Langford via KRnet 
Date: Thu, June 08, 2017 6:46 pm
To: KRnet 
Cc: Mark Langford 

NetHeads,

I finally got my Revmaster heads last week, and have installed them and 
have put five hours on the engine so far. With new-found compression 
and big-valve heads, it's back to the ~170mph top speed and nice climb 
rate it had after the first rebuild.

But the Revmaster heads come with 12mm spark plugs, and at $35 each, I 
really didn't want to shell out $140 for four CHT probes, so I bought 
some K-type thermocouple wire for $9.50 off ebay (free shipping), 
12mm-#8 ring terminals for $0.55 each from Digikey, and built all four 
CHT probes for $18. Having seen thermocouple welders on youtube, I used 
my TIG welder set on 10A (the lowest setting) and just barely struck an 
arc with the pedal to weld the twisted thermocouple wires together in 
about 1.5 seconds, crimped the thermocouple to the ring terminal, and 
double heat shrank the terminal unions, with some superglue added 
underneath the shrink tube for good measure. Now I have home-brewed 
custom thermocouples for cheap, that are exactly the right length for 
each spark plug. And the fact that some are as much as 20% longer made 
no measurable difference. I tested all four (plus a spare OAT sensor 
and a Fluke temp probe) and they match within .6 degree F of each other 
using a six channel Omega tester at room temperature, so I'd call them 
"close enough for KR work"!

Something else I learned was the effect of tinning the instrument end of

the thermocouple wire. My thermocouple wire is stranded, so when I plug 
into the little slots on the tester the strands separate and make a 
mess. [And yes, know there's a connector for that job.] So I wondered 
what the accuracy difference would be if I tinned the end of the 
thermocouple wires with some solder. The answer, despite what I've read 
over the years, was "no measurable difference at all", at least not at 
ambient temperature. I flew the plane today, and cylinder head temps 
were amazingly uniform for a change. Of course a new pair of Revmaster 
heads didn't hurt either.

So neither length nor material compatibility at the connections make 
enough difference to accurately measure, and the difference may just be 
the way I welded them or some other tiny factor. And given the low 
accuracy required for CHT duty, the tiny differences in accuracy are "in

the noise" anyway. So there's another thing I can quit fretting over, 
and so can you. See enclosed photo...

-- 
Mark Langford
m...@n56ml.com
http://www.n56ml.com

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Re: KR> carb

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

I will email you a manual and parts list.  Keep in mind that the
electronic copies of the manuals that you can find might not be the
latest information.  You can buy the current manual with a subscription
that gives you all of the service bulletins and updates, but it is very
expensive.  Spruce carries most of the parts as long as you know the
correct part numbers since some of them are impossible to find on their
web site.


Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: KR> carb
From: Raymond Fuenzalida via KRnet 
Date: Mon, June 05, 2017 11:20 am
To: KRnet 
Cc: Raymond Fuenzalida 

Hello All,
Just working on my MA-3 carb. Does anyone have a rebuild manual for one?
Preferably electronic? Maybe a decent place to get a rebuild kit from?
Didn't see a whole lot in the archives.
Thanks.

Ray_pilot
New Orleans
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Re: KR> Magneto for VW type IV

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

There is an electronic ignition that can be installed in the distributor
flange from Great Plains.


Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: KR> Magneto for VW type IV
From: Hendrik van Rooyen via KRnet 

Hi again everyone,

Please allow me another question:

Is there a magneto available that can just be installed in the default
distributor flange on a Type IV VW engine?

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Re: KR> major success!!

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

That is the area I was referring to.  For some reason my oil only showed
coming from one side.  if you had your case overhauled and used sealant
you are probably fine there.  If you didn't have your case machined it
is still likely the cylinder base seal.  Just in case it is not I didn't
want you to go through all the head scratching and cursing I did. 

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: Re: KR> major success!!
From: Larry Flesner via KRnet 
Date: Tue, May 23, 2017 7:25 pm
To: KRnet 
Cc: Larry Flesner 

A

If you are referring to the area that the "through bolts" got through 
the case and act as a cylinder base stud for two of the cylinders, 
the answer is yes. I used light amount of sealant and a double silk 
thread. It would seem if that was the leak it would appear on both 
sides of the case, not just #4 cylinder. I did my best to insure the 
square "O" ring was seated good on the cylinder base. It's not a bad 
leak but I see evidence of oil half way around the cylinder base with 
maybe a half drop on the lower bolt. I'll be zeroing in on that and 
other leaks as the flights continue.

Larry Flesner 



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Re: KR> todays flight

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

It is particularly useful on aircraft engines because you have all the
air blowing across the engine so you wind up with oil over everything so
it is impossible to pinpoint the origin point.  Put in the dye and run
it just a few minutes and look and you can find the origin point before
it has had a chance to get all over the place.  The dyes also work great
for coolant system leaks in your car, brake and transmission fluid, etc.
 I did a demo for our EAA chapter once so played with it on a lot of
different things first to get pictures.  I just got a cheapie kit at the
auto parts store.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: Re: KR> todays flight
From: Tony King via KRnet 
Date: Tue, May 23, 2017 4:15 pm
To: KRnet 
Cc: Tony King 

Now that's a neat idea! Hadn't come across that before. Gonna try that
on
my O-200 (which doesn't lose much but always puts a smear of oil down
the
side of the aircraft after 20 or 30 minutes of flight).
e

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Re: KR> major success!!

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

Larry, did you put sealant on the case halves at the bosses around the
crankshaft where your main bearings are?  The older O-200 manual says
not to put any sealant there, but the newer manual says to.  The engines
they are making today have O-ring grooves around the thru bolts on the
bosses.

You might remember my Midget Mustang at the gathering years ago leaking
a quart an hour.  That was from a slightly warped case that was not
making good contact on the bosses and high pressure oil from the main
bearings was going through the split where the bosses came together and
traveling up the thru bolts and then seeping out from under the cylinder
flanges.  Hopefully yours is just the cylinder base seals, but do take a
look if you pull the cylinder off and see if you have oil on the thru
bolts.

Anyway, on mine the first time I split the case I didn't put sealant on
the bosses because I had an older manual and it still leaked when I put
it back together.  The second time I found out that I needed sealant
there, but it still leaked because I didn't send the crankcase out to
have it machined flat and the sealant could not do the job because the
case was slightly warped so the bosses didn't make good contact.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: KR> major success!!
From: Larry Flesner via KRnet 
Date: Tue, May 23, 2017 4:04 pm
To: krnet@list.krnet.org
Cc: Larry Flesner 


Other minor concerns are: #4 cylinder base seems to be weeping a bit 
of oil, 

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Re: KR> todays flight

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

Oil leaks are very hard to find with brand new clean oil, especially
with oil already on the engine so you can't see where new oil is
leaking.  Best way is to use the flourescent dye and UV light you can
get an auto parts store.  Put some of the dye in the oil and run it for
just a few minutes at night then shut it down and the leak will light up
like a neon sign.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com

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Re: KR> todays flight

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

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Re: KR> KRnet KR project construction resource

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

I do essentially the same thing on my planes, but cut an angle on a
larger block and put the jack under that.


Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: Re: KR> KRnet KR project construction resource
From: bruis--- via KRnet 
Date: Sat, May 20, 2017 7:33 pm
To: Christopher Pryce via KRnet 
Cc: br...@xtra.co.nz

That is an excellent trick - thank you!

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Re: KR> VW Type 1 "DRD Racing" head reliability

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

Looking at the pictures of those heads my assumption would be that the
generous cooling passages are a bit too generous.  The air that comes in
contact with the aluminum cools the head, not the air that just passes
by through a big hole.  I suspect that much of the air is going through
the big holes near the top of the heads instead of passing over the
fins.  Aside from the overall reduction of air that comes in contact
with the head it is also reducing the amount of air flowing over the
fins on the bottom side that carry most of the heat in exchange for
putting it on the top side of the head where it is less important.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: KR> VW Type 1 "DRD Racing" head reliability
From: Mark Langford via KRnet 
Date: Fri, April 28, 2017 5:05 am
To: KRnet 
Cc: Mark Langford 

Those of you with any kind of short term memory remaining will recall 
that I took a serious look at Type 1 head cooling last year, in an 
effort to find some heads that had sufficient air passages to keep the 
VW Type 1 heads cool in a KR2. I settled on DRD Racing heads, which 
have some very generous air passages,

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Re: KR> Rand Robinson's early epoxy (was Wing Attach Fittings)

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

After that Rand recommended Safe-T-Poxy which is today called EZ Poxy. 
I still use the EZ poxy.  Seems most people use West or Aeropoxy, but I
have used them all and find the EZ far superior.  Wrote a long post
about the reasons why a long time ago and I suppose it could be dug up
in the archives.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: Re: KR> Rand Robinson's early epoxy (was Wing Attach Fittings)
From: Mark Langford via KRnet 
Date: Thu, April 06, 2017 7:33 am
To: "KRnet" 
Cc: m...@n56ml.com

>From one of the Newsletters:

RR epoxy is Shell Epon 813 resin, and General Mills Versamid 125
hardener. The first time I used this, my arms looked like I'd been
burned in a house fire, so beware...


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Re: KR> washers

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

I recently spoke to the owner of Saber about an older one of their prop
spacers that I had.  The bolts that attach the spacer to the crankshaft
flange are recessed into the spacer so you can't safety wire them.  He
told me that the two options for saftying the bolts would be Locktite on
the threads or Nord Locks under the heads of the bolts.  We had a short
discussion about them and he told me that they work very good and they
are approved for some certified applications.  They are not overly
expensive and they are available from McMaster Carr and they are a great
option for when there is not another way to safety a bolt.

As far as the wings go though I would just use the nylon lock nuts.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: KR> washers
From: Ken Hurley via KRnet 
Date: Wed, April 05, 2017 7:19 am
To: KRnet 
Cc: Ken Hurley 

I came across this video on washers. I'm thinking about using them when
I
attach my wings. Your thoughts please.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKwWu2w1gGk


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Re: KR> New VW?

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

They have been around a while and their web site has not changed as far
as I can tell for over a year.  I have seen the engine at Sun N Fun last
year and I think the year before that.  I have no idea if it is in
production or how many are flying, but it certainly looks promising.


Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: KR> New VW?
From: svd via KRnet 
Date: Thu, March 16, 2017 7:42 pm
To: "krnet@list.krnet.org" 
Cc: svd 


I know small aircraft engine manufacturers come and go - but this looks
pretty cool:

Cribbed from VP2 group post - A Brazilian company named MotorAv. They
used to manufacture the VW engines in the past and have created an
aeronautical version based on the old engine but with important
modifications for greater durability and reliability.

Maybe if the can hit there performance bug market too - they’ll be
able to exceed the critical volume needed to stay in business.

This is the most current iteration:




This page have some images comparing the original VW block design with
their aeronautical version:
http://www.motorav.com/t 
echnology-block-design.php


http://www.motorav.com/ 
On facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Motorav/



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Re: KR> Liquid cooled VW

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

I remember a discussion on the liquid cooled VW heads a long time ago. 
Not sure how many ever got installed or why they stopped making them. 
Here is a link to Great Plains page for them.

http://www.greatplainsas.com/bf2004.html

I know that one of the major advantages to liquid cooled engines is that
the pistons and cylinders are made with much smaller clearances because
the temperature of the engine stays relatively constant so less
expansion and contraction with the different metals.  If you don't have
cylinders and pistons that are made with the lower clearances some of
the advantages of liquid cooling go away and not sure if they made
different pistons for the liquid cooled VW.


Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com


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Re: KR> fiber glassed fuselage

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

There have been a few that have done that.  My KR had foam between the
wood pieces from the firewall back to just behind the seat and then the
inside was covered in one layer of glass.  I liked that because it gave
me some sound and thermal insulation and a more finished look for only a
few pounds of extra weight.


Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: KR> fiber glassed fuselage
From: Robert Russell via KRnet 
Date: Thu, March 09, 2017 5:20 pm
To: KRnet 
Cc: pi...@mymts.net

I am wondering if there have been any fuselages built that have the
plywood as well as fiber glass over the top of it? 


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Re: KR> Hangar Rent

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

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Re: KR> Update Mark Jones

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

Most people retire and go to Florida to work less, lower their expenses,
buy more toys, spend more time flying, and get the kids out of the house
and supporting themselves.  Seems you got it all backwards, but good to
hear that it is just a temporary diversion.  Sounds like you have great
kids and the investment you are making in them will be well worth it.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: KR> Update Mark Jones
From: Mark Jones via KRnet 
Date: Mon, March 06, 2017 7:28 am
To: "KR Net" , "CorvairNet"

Cc: Mark Jones 

I want to update everyone on what is going on with me and my KR2S.
Life’s changes have caught up to me and I have had to make some
serious changes in my life. We are now living in Florida and the cost of
living here is about double what it was in Wisconsin. 

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Re: KR> Mole tail

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

Yes he was.  I wondered what became of Dana about a year or so ago and
searched his posts on the Vans Airforce site and found that he sold
Black Magic then he disappeared from that group.  Not sure if he got out
of flying all together or what.  His old cell phone number didn't work
so I sent him an email at the address on his business web site, but
didn't hear back.  Good guy.  Hope he is doing well.  Anyone still in
touch with him?

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: Re: KR> Mole tail
From: Mark Wegmet via KRnet 
Date: Thu, February 23, 2017 8:28 pm
To: "'KRnet'" 
Cc: Mark Wegmet 

Wasn't Dana Overall the builder of an RV7 called Black Magic? If so, his
build site is still on line. It is my recollection that he sold it. Nice
RV
though.

Mark W.
N952MW(res)


-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-boun...@list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Mark
Langford
via KRnet
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2017 8:56 PM
To: KRnet
Cc: Mark Langford
Subject: Re: KR> Mole tail

The Mole Tail was designed by Aeronautical Engineer Richard Mole, after
he
did a stability analysis on the KR2 and S "listed" CG range was out of
whack
on the aft end, and that the last two inches should be avoided. 
 Dana Overall was given the dimensions and built the tail that I
enclosed
this morning. I don't know the whereabouts of that plane, but it was too
far along for somebody to simply scrap or strip for parts, and it was a
KR2S. For more on the Mole Tail, see
http://www.krnet.org/misc/mole_tail.pdf . Richard is almost building a
new
plane, and he's probably pushing 80 these days. I'm hope I'm even half
as
sharp as he is when I get there...

Mark Langford
m...@n56ml.com
http://www.n56ml.com


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Re: KR> headers are finished

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

One thing I noticed on my Midget Mustang when I wrapped the exhaust (and
I assume you would see the same thing with ceramic coting) is that it
was much easier to find peak EGT.  The temp gauge moved a lot faster
without the normal lag.  I guess that is because you are insulating the
exhaust gas you are measuring from the outside air that is cooling it.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: Re: KR> headers are finished
From: Jeff York via KRnet 
Date: Thu, February 16, 2017 6:54 pm
To: KRnet 
Cc: Jeff York 



My biggest challenge with my VW ( and I think everyone's challenge) is
under cowl temps. Ceramic coating offers great temp dispersion and
therefore a great reduction of under cowl temps.

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Re: KR> insurance claim payouts

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

I am sure that some insurance companies do try to not pay under some
conditions, but I have not experienced that with AIG.  I had a Piper
Clipper get destroyed by a microburst while it was not tied down and
they paid no questions asked.  I had a Piper Pacer ground looped by a
friend and again they paid out no questions asked.

As far as not insuring, there are two sides to that.  My first KR I got
a high insurance quote for because I had little tailwheel time and no
time in the KR yet.  It was going to be considerably less once I got to
50 hours and I figured that any accident I could walk away from I would
still have my engine and instruments and could find a low cost project
and get back in the air cheap.  What I did not count on was a crash and
every bit of the plane being destroyed by the subsequent fire so I had
no insurance yet.  Took me over a year to afford another plane so I was
cursing myself the whole time for not spending the money for insurance. 
I was also sweating the thought of the passenger sueing me, but I was
fortunate that he was a good person.

And in case anyone is wondering, AIG still insures me after one
uninsured totaled plane and two insured totaled planes and I am paying
rates that are right in line with others with no damage history.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: Re: KR> insurance claim payouts
From: Jeff Scott via KRnet 
Date: Fri, February 10, 2017 8:49 am
To: krnet@list.krnet.org
Cc: Jeff Scott 


And just in case there is an doubt why people distrust insurance
companies so much, please read Victor's email again. Wow.

With 10 - 15 years of hull insurance on a KR, you have paid for the
aircraft. So ask yourself if losing your KR is going create an
unrecoverable financial hardship? If not, then you might question why
you would pay for hull insurance. In 40+ years of aviation and 20 years
flying the KR along with a bunch of other aircraft, I have never filed
an aviation insurance claim. If something were to happen to my KR, then
I would salvage what I could from the plane and build another plane.

For those that are more concerned with something happening to their
plane while it is parked, you can buy "Not In Motion" hull insurance.
Not in Motion is significantly less expensive than "In Motion" hull
insurance, and will cover your plane for damage due to weather, hangar
falling in, etc. Pilots that park their planes outside in our area carry
"Not in Motion" coverage as we tend to get large damaging hail
regularly. But you have to read the policy closely to make sure your
aircraft is fully covered as sometimes the hail damage is excluded.

-Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM

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Re: KR> Insurance for a KR-2

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

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Re: KR> Sterba prop

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

I have refinished several of his props the exact way after asking him
years ago.  It is very easy and works good.  One issue I have though
with the Helmsman varnish is that you really need to keep your prop
covered if you keep your plane out in the sun.  I had one on my Midget
Mustang and the varnish was deteriorated after less than a year.  I have
wondered what Sensenich and other prop makers use for varnish since
other planes sit out much longer before having issues.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: KR> Sterba prop
From: Flesner via KRnet 
Date: Wed, February 08, 2017 11:43 am
To: krnet@list.krnet.org
Cc: Flesner 



I enquired about my Sterba prop and Ed came back with the following 
info. This is for all Sterba prop owners and wood props in 
general. Non Steba owners check with your manufacturer.

correspondence below;


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Re: KR> Insurance for a KR-2

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

Depends a lot on your total time and tailwheel time.  You will also get
vastly different quotes from different insurance companies.  Some give
good prices on some models, but bad on others.  I highly recommend
calling Scott at Skysmith Insurance.  He works with a lot of
underwriters and does a lot with experimentals.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: KR> Insurance for a KR-2
From: Dan via KRnet 
Date: Tue, February 07, 2017 8:18 am
To: "'KRnet'" 
Cc: Dan 

I was/am looking to buy or eventually build a KR-2S so I called for an
insurance quote. The quote at just over $2000 was double the rate of my
current experimental tail dragger. My current insurer's quote came in at
more than triple what I am paying them now. Quotes are with the same
hull value that I currently have. I expected it to be a little higher
but this seems excessive. If I go this route I may have to go without
insurance for a while but my wife is not excited about that.

This may change my plans but has me wondering if there are a lot of KR-2
accidents or are there a lot of KR-2's that are simply not insured?

Thanks,
Dan LaFon


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Re: KR> Melting lead

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

That is exactly what I did, plaster of paris molds that were baked in
the oven to get the moisture out.  I think I made the initial male mold
out of wax if I remember correctly then poured on the plaster of paris
to make a female mold then baked in the oven and poured out the melted
wax to get my female molds.

I used lead fishing sinkers and melted them in a cat food can on my gas
stove, but I think an electric stove would do fine also.

One recommendation I have on your aileron ballance weights is to not
have them as big rectangles.  Keep in mind that you want most of the
mass of lead to be on a long arm away from the hinge point.  It takes
twice the weight to ballance as it would if the weight was twice as far
from the hinge point.  I recall Jim Faughn's (If I am remembering
correctly) ballance weight on one aileron breaking off in flight at a
gathering one year.  His weights were huge rectangles with a lot of mass
near the hinge point so they were a lot heavier than they needed to be
which makes the whole aileron and counterbalance assembly heavier and
more prone to flutter even when ballanced.  I made mine more wedge
shaped with most of the mass far from the hinge point.

Speaking of melting lead, I have been trying to figure out for the past
few days how to deal with my solder pot that just crapped out that I use
for mass soldering of circuit boards.  It is a big 2,000 Watt electric
pot that is regulated at 250 degrees C.  I have a new solder pot on the
way, but am trying to figure out the best way to melt out the 75 pounds
of solder in the old pot and put it in the new one.  At today's prices
for bar solder it is $1,500 worth of solder.  It takes about an hour to
melt when the pot is working so I am not sure if I can effectively just
remove the pot from the whole machine and heat on the stove or heat it
with a torch.  Withe any luck the heating element on the new pot is the
same as the old one and I can just transfer it to the old pot.  Can't
buy just the heating element.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: Re: KR> Melting lead
From: Parley T Byington via KRnet 
Date: Sat, January 28, 2017 1:56 pm
To: "krnet@list.krnet.org" 
Cc: Parley T Byington 

Date: Saturday, Jan.28,2017
Subject: Melting lead and safety precautions

When making my counter weights, I built some molds out of plaster of
Paris to shape then used the female mold to pour melted lead into. 

ONE VERY IMPORTANT POINT HERE; that is heat the mold (plaster) in the
oven to a high temperature to ensure there is NO water left in the
plaster PRIOR to pouring molten lead in it. FAILURE to do this will
result in an explosion of molten lead that will cover everything with in
a 10 ft radius INCLUDING the person pouring the lead! ALWAYS WEAR
PROTECTIVE CLOTHING, GLOVES, EYE, FACE, ARM, AND BODY PROTECTION.


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Re: KR> Progress !

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

I had a Sterba prop with varnish that had gotten stuck to my prop spacer
a while back and no amount of puling on the prop would loosen it up and
hitting it or trying to pry it off would have definitely damaged the
wood.  I loosened the bolts 1/8" and started up the engine and prop
cleanly unstuck itself.  Certainly not the recommended procedure, but it
worked.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com



 Original Message 
Subject: KR> Progress !
From: Larry Flesner via KRnet 
Date: Mon, January 23, 2017 4:07 pm
To: krnet@list.krnet.org
Cc: Larry Flesner 



I was unable to get my 5 inch prop extension off the crank with 
several non destructive efforts and didn't want to do anything to 
ruin either. After finding the right combination of socket size, 
bolt length, and number of washers, I was able to pull the drive lugs 
out the back of the prop flange and was then able to tap the 
extension off with a rubber hammer. The crank is now at the machine 
shop and for $30 USD they will mic the crank, check for any out of 
round, magniflux the crank, and check for run out on the 
flange. Once I get the report I'll know what my next steep will 
be. If all is well I'd like to get the crank balanced and get all 
other items clean and inspected and start planning the rebuild. If 
any crank work needs to be done it will probably go to a certified 
aircraft shop. Updates to follow...

Larry Flesner


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Re: KR> Fuel header tank

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

Having hung upside down by the seatbelt with a header tank on fire I
definitely prefer to have all the fuel in the wings, but I had a Midget
Mustang with all the fuel in the header tank and currently fly a Mustang
2 with just a header tank.  I would certainly put all my fuel in the
wings if I was building a new one, but not going to build new wings just
to eliminate the header.



Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com

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Re: KR> Fuel header tank

[brian.kraut--- via KRnet]

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