Re: KR> Melting lead

2017-02-02 Thread Mark Wegmet via KRnet
Forgot to mention - not a household oven, but an industrial oven - 63/37
SnPb weighs in at about 570#/cu. Ft. 

-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-boun...@list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Mark Wegmet
via KRnet
Sent: Thursday, February 2, 2017 6:38 PM
To: 'KRnet'
Cc: Mark Wegmet; 'Sid Wood'
Subject: Re: KR> Melting lead

If it is a true eutectic, you can put it in an oven set at 425F - 63/37 SnPb
melts at 361F. If you have a ladle and are VERY careful with appropriate
PPE, you can transfer it to your new pot. If your old pot has a "drain" set
up, again, with proper PPE, you can 'dump' it into the new pot. Obviously,
you will destroy everything on your old pot except the solder pot itself by
doing this.

You could also disassemble your old set up and build a mini kiln with
firebrick/refractory brick and propane or gas torches to accomplish the same
thing.

I hope you are knowledgeable about handling molten metal... this is not a
task for the uninitiated.

BTW, I spent almost 30 years building circuit boards, including assemblies
with SMD fine pitch, wave solder systems, IR/Solder paste, etc. In any event
BE CAREFULL!

Mark W
N952MW

-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-boun...@list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Sid Wood via
KRnet
Sent: Thursday, February 2, 2017 1:17 PM
To: krnet@list.krnet.org
Cc: Sid Wood
Subject: Re: KR> Melting lead

Lead can be melted with direct application of a propane torch.  That does
tend to oxidize the lead, so you do get more slag.  Solder is a mixture of
lead and tin.  These will oxidize at different rates under the torch flame. 
That could change the mixture ratio of the solder.  Maybe not a big deal,
but could be.  If you can get at the underside of the pot, suggest you apply
the torch there.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
--

Speaking of melting lead, I have been trying to figure out for the past few
days how to deal with my solder pot that just crapped out that I use for
mass soldering of circuit boards.  It is a big 2,000 Watt electric pot that
is regulated at 250 degrees C.  I have a new solder pot on the way, but am
trying to figure out the best way to melt out the 75 pounds of solder in the
old pot and put it in the new one.  At today's prices for bar solder it is
$1,500 worth of solder.  It takes about an hour to melt when the pot is
working so I am not sure if I can effectively just remove the pot from the
whole machine and heat on the stove or heat it with a torch.  Withe any luck
the heating element on the new pot is the same as the old one and I can just
transfer it to the old pot.  Can't buy just the heating element.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com






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Re: KR> Melting lead

2017-02-02 Thread Mark Wegmet via KRnet
If it is a true eutectic, you can put it in an oven set at 425F - 63/37 SnPb
melts at 361F. If you have a ladle and are VERY careful with appropriate
PPE, you can transfer it to your new pot. If your old pot has a "drain" set
up, again, with proper PPE, you can 'dump' it into the new pot. Obviously,
you will destroy everything on your old pot except the solder pot itself by
doing this.

You could also disassemble your old set up and build a mini kiln with
firebrick/refractory brick and propane or gas torches to accomplish the same
thing.

I hope you are knowledgeable about handling molten metal... this is not a
task for the uninitiated.

BTW, I spent almost 30 years building circuit boards, including assemblies
with SMD fine pitch, wave solder systems, IR/Solder paste, etc. In any event
BE CAREFULL!

Mark W
N952MW

-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-boun...@list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Sid Wood via
KRnet
Sent: Thursday, February 2, 2017 1:17 PM
To: krnet@list.krnet.org
Cc: Sid Wood
Subject: Re: KR> Melting lead

Lead can be melted with direct application of a propane torch.  That does
tend to oxidize the lead, so you do get more slag.  Solder is a mixture of
lead and tin.  These will oxidize at different rates under the torch flame. 
That could change the mixture ratio of the solder.  Maybe not a big deal,
but could be.  If you can get at the underside of the pot, suggest you apply
the torch there.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
--

Speaking of melting lead, I have been trying to figure out for the past few
days how to deal with my solder pot that just crapped out that I use for
mass soldering of circuit boards.  It is a big 2,000 Watt electric pot that
is regulated at 250 degrees C.  I have a new solder pot on the way, but am
trying to figure out the best way to melt out the 75 pounds of solder in the
old pot and put it in the new one.  At today's prices for bar solder it is
$1,500 worth of solder.  It takes about an hour to melt when the pot is
working so I am not sure if I can effectively just remove the pot from the
whole machine and heat on the stove or heat it with a torch.  Withe any luck
the heating element on the new pot is the same as the old one and I can just
transfer it to the old pot.  Can't buy just the heating element.

Brian Kraut
904-536-1780
br...@eamanuacturing.com






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Re: KR> 4-into-1 exhaust system help?

2017-01-28 Thread Mark Wegmet via KRnet
Ceramic coating works and has thermal management benefits as well. 

Mark W.
N952MW (res)

-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-boun...@list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Ronald Wright 
via KRnet
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2017 2:00 PM
To: KRnet
Cc: Ronald Wright
Subject: Re: KR> 4-into-1 exhaust system help?

Once you get your system built, take it and get it plated and it will last 
forever.  Nickel chrome or some other and it shouldn't be that expensive but 
might be worth checking into.
Ron

  From: Mark Langford via KRnet 
 To: KRnet 
Cc: Mark Langford 
 Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2017 8:56 AM
 Subject: Re: KR> 4-into-1 exhaust system help?
   
I gave up trying to find an exhaust system that even vaguely resembles what I 
have on N891JF.  I'm going to have to build another one that replicates it, 
unless I want to remove the engine, completely reconfigure the firewall and 
intake system, etc.  Building a new system, as painful as that sounds, is 
easier than the alternative.

I was going to build it out of 321 stainless until I checked the prices. 
  A 321 U-bend is $94, a 304 U-bend is $40, and a mild steel U-bend is $10.  I 
need 8 U-bends (four are actually J-bends, but same price), just to think about 
getting started, we're talking $800, not to mention collector, tailpipe, 
flanges, etc, if built from 321 stainless.  The existing one made it to 600 
hours and was mild steel.  I'll have N56ML back in the air before I put another 
600 hours on this one!

By contrast, my Corvair system was almost reasonable built from 321, because it 
is built so simply using only three U-bends for six cylinders.  But it's not a 
complex 6-into-1 system either, just a pair of simple 3-into-1 pipes.

I have everything I need to start on it, and that's what I'm doing all weekend, 
and probably next weekend as well.  I built two mockup engines, one with the 
old exhaust to measure distances and angles from, and the other as the fixture 
to build the new system onto. We'll see how it goes.

One thing I learned along the way is that Great Plains has no exhaust systems 
built, but they do have fixtures, so they are "to order" with a
30 day lead time.  The configurations are shown on their website at 
http://greatplainsas.com/scexhaust.html , none of which are similar to mine.  
Also, gauge size is not mentioned on their website, but they are 18g (.049"), 
rather than the 16g (.065")like the original exhaust system, so I had to get 
all materials elsewhere.  I did buy flanges from them, but am not enamored with 
them as the mounting holes are huge compared to the 8mm studs, so I'll have to 
carefully center the flanges to the ports before I start welding tubes to them.

Mark Langford
m...@n56ml.com
http://www.n56ml.com


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