Those leaves are amazing. The hat at the bottom of the page is ,too.
Lorelei
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Morning All
We can be hopeful on a floral bucks book by Alex... C&G is an
examination board in Britain. It actually stands for City and
Guilds. The Part 2 is the second part of the exam!
Hope this helps.
Sue in East Yorkshire
On 13 Jun 2008, at 08:28, Achim Siebert wrote:
Since there's
Since there's only very few patterns for floral Bucks: will there be a
book by Alex eventually? (... hopes flying high ...). And what is
"Part 2 C&G"?
Best, Achim
Alex got me into Floral Bucks
(further than Part 2 C&G did) last month,
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In message <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Wendy Davies
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes
>
>Am I right in thinking once I have mastered leaves then Beds or is it Bucks
>will be the next lace type to have a go at. At the moment I am working on my
>first Milanese pattern the Humming Bird.
There is no set pattern as
Hi All
Thanks for the tips you sent me. I have had a go at making leaves but when
looking through lace books they never really tell you how many times to go
back and forth. But then again at the laceday I was told you do as many as you
want to get the thickness. I think the problem I had was tha
I think this was meant for the entire list - a good tip about using wire:
Subject: Re: [lace] leaves and tallies - with wire
To: bevw <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Wire also breaks if you have to redo a section. If you're careful, you can
generally get away with re weaving it once. Twice if yo
Hello Wendy
Well done on your first post :)
(post again, post often!)
Good question.
It might be that making a leaf with wire is 'easier' than with thread (and
they do look nice), but the two substances are quite different to handle. If
you want to try the wire to see how the weaving process works
> > Hi> > > > This will be my first attempt at posting on the lace digest> >
so hopefully I will succeed.> > > > I am newish to lace so please excuse any
silly comments. On> > the subject Leaves and Tallies, on our Lace day in> >
Haverfordwest some one told me that it is easier to make> > leaves an
Thank you to whoever pointed out that my description of making leaves is not
clear. It will be corrected next time. The working I have found the most
effective is to tension each time you weave across the three passive threads,
i.e. weave across, support the outer two threads and ease up the slack
Insect pins are made for mounting insect specimens on a display board.
There must be a huge demand for these things, because they're readily
available in shops on the internet. They come in a number of sizes from
very, very fine (000) to big (7). The heads of these pins are just a
tiny littl
Can I ask what are 'insect pins in what way are they different to quilting
pins (which seem to be a bit thick anyway). I have some of those and some
of the things I think you perhaps call berry pins, smaller than quilt pins,
thinner than them but still with the coloured tops.
Sue T Dorset UK w
Good idea. For medium to large threads, I use the long yellow-headed quilting
pins as temporary markers.The yellow tops glare at me until I remove them.
I can see the value of insect pins with painted heads for temporary pins in
fine-threaded laces. Thanks for the idea.
Alice in Oregon
-
Carolina de la Guardia wrote:
A half hitch is the way I usually end leaves. A supporter pin, is
also very helpful, and secures the leave while the pairs are waiting
to be worked again.
On square tallies, it is also useful to put 2 supporter pins, at right
and left of the tally, taking them out
A half hitch is the way I usually end leaves. A supporter pin, is also
very helpful, and secures the leave while the pairs are waiting to be
worked again.
On square tallies, it is also useful to put 2 supporter pins, at right
and left of the tally, taking them out as soon as the pairs are worke
Thanks, Alice, for your helpful thoughts!! It's nice to know a
lacemaker of your experience is also using a knot!! I'd love to become
skillful enough not to do that, but I'm not there yet!!
Clay
Alice Howell wrote:
I was told that traditionally there were no knots on the tally. However...
That's a given!! But I've found that with a fine pin and patience, I've
been able to take out even a full knot. Still... a half-hitch works
nearly as well, and is easier to take out.
I also find that if I don't do *something*, even if I'm very careful,
I'll collapse those lovely tallies, gu
Clay Blackwell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
So... here's the next explosive subject for debate:WHAT TO DO WITH
THE WORKER AND MATE at the end of the tally???
- Carry on, as normal...
- Do a knot to secure the tally...
- Do a half-hitch to "help" secure the tally...
I can prett
I was told that traditionally there were no knots on the tally. HoweverI
go with expediency rather than strict tradition and a tiny knot will not show
in the finished work.
The most effective way to secure a tally at the end is to put a single knot in
the two-passives pair, not the worker/
I almost always end a leaf tally with a half-stitch (CT, occasionally TC if
'C' is required to start the next bit). The hs acts as a lock.
I'm not bad at leaf tallies now, on the cookie pillow, and I can even
'leave' the pillow with the 'leaf' half-finished, and resume some other time
without the l
WHAT TO DO WITH THE WORKER AND MATE
Nothing. I use Christine Springett's method for making leaves/
tallies - slow but sure - and the weaving is so tight that you don't
have to do anything at the end. I've even packed my pillow in my
suitcase with several leaves made but the unknotted ends no
On 2 Jun 2008, at 21:05, Clay Blackwell wrote:
WHAT TO DO WITH THE WORKER AND MATE
Nothing. I use Christine Springett's method for making leaves/
tallies - slow but sure - and the weaving is so tight that you don't
have to do anything at the end. I've even packed my pillow in my
suitcas
Hello everyone -
I have also had my turn with trying to learn this technique. Anny
Noben-Slegers demonstrated this during a workshop a couple of years ago
- using Binche bobbins. She seemed to be made of more flexible stuff
that I am!!! (Not to mention more genius, more grace, more
imagina
I, too, found it impossible while using East Midlands bobbins. But I
could do it using Continental bobbins - they're just that much
thicker and easier to grab while your hand's contorted!
On 2 Jun 2008, at 17:45, Tess Parrish wrote:
Now for the hard part--which the lacemakers in Brioude ca
Wow. thanks so much to all of you who gave me hints and tips on leaves
and tallies.
I did manage another two tonight which look ok.
It also cost me, as I have ordered a copy of Alex Stillwell's book that
sshe mentioned.
I recently started doing Bucks Point and really like it very much.
So far,
A refinement on the leaves as described by Tamara: The most important
thing about getting them regular and smooth is tension. And this
means constant tension on the two outside threads. When Tamara says
that she had difficulty with this (needed the services of a
chiropractor...), I know
Hello Alex,
Am 02.06.2008 um 11:54 schrieb Alex Stillwell:
Geometrical
Bucks Point lace' p 97 and p 108-9.
Either I read it wrongly (quite possible as I'm not a native speaker)
or the description on p. 97 is wrong - the part to be repeated (* to
**) is missing something. The numbering of
Ages ago someone showed me an easier way of making tallies and leaves,
> but I think I
> wrote it down wrongly as I just end up with a kind of plait-gone-wrong.
> Any help out there?
I have tried and taught making leaves all the ways I have come across in 30
years and I have described the one tha
At 4:24 am -0500 16/11/06, Liz wrote:
I was taught to tie a single knot at the bottom of a leaf-shaped tally to
hold it in place till it was needed. I now find out that that is a
Continental idea. In the little blue Cluny book, by Rutgers, (I think), she
shows tying a knot with one pair to hol
At 03:12 PM 15/11/2006, you wrote:
I was taught to tie a single knot at the bottom of a leaf-shaped
tally to hold it in place till it was needed. I now find out that
that is a Continental idea. In the little blue Cluny book, by
Rutgers, (I think), she shows tying a knot with one pair to hold
Hello Liz and everyone on the list
Aren't BL leaves interesting - I was going through a collection of
papers and turned up some printouts of early Arachne digests - many
messages about leaves! I did not have time to browse them and extract
any tidbits, but will do so another time, and share anyth
I was taught to tie a single knot at the bottom of a leaf-shaped tally to
hold it in place till it was needed. I now find out that that is a
Continental idea. In the little blue Cluny book, by Rutgers, (I think), she
shows tying a knot with one pair to hold a square tally in shape.
The squa
At last instructions for the visual oriented. Adding your page to my link
pages I found
http://lace.lacefairy.com/Gallery/Makingleaves.html
^^^ raising hand ^^^
http://tat-man.net/clunyinstr.html
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Subject: Re: [lace] Leaves (longish)
I learned to make leaves from Christine in Beds class many years ago. In
that class, she did not use a half hitch. That idea is new to me. She did
lengthen the worker (but not enough to do the whole leaf unless it was a
real small one) and shorten
I learned to make leaves from Christine in Beds class
many years ago. In that class, she did not use a half
hitch. That idea is new to me. She did lengthen the
worker (but not enough to do the whole leaf unless it
was a real small one) and shorten the passives to
about 3". She may have modified
Yes, Beth, that's exactly how I do my leaves, and guess where I
learned it from? Christine Springett! -- Aurelia
Hi, all,
I'm leaping from lurk-dom for this one, as I've been following the
thread on leaves & tallies. No-one has yet described the way I was
taught to make leaves/petals, so
Take care all of you, and may your pins never bend.
Carol - in Suffolk UK
- Original Message -
From: "Beth Schoenberg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [lace] Leaves (longish)
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Hi, all,
I'm leaping from lurk-dom for this one, as I've been following the
thread on leaves & tallies. No-one has yet described the way I was
taught to make leaves/petals, so for fun and variety, I thought I'd
throw it into the pot.
The first "trick" I learned was to pull together all the b
at because I do like
it.
Karen in Malta
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
Beth Schoenberg
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 3:18 PM
To: lace@arachne.com
Subject: [lace] Leaves (longish)
Hi, all,
I'm leaping from lurk-dom for this on
Jenny B - No, just use the worker going left to right and then right to
left, and tension on the left. Definitely don't change to right-handed!!
Being right-handed I go right to left, left to right and tension, - so you
just do it in reverse.
Your tallies will look just the same, whether you
From: Jenny Brandis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> My question however is as a left hander, I want the worker bobbin to
> be in the left hand and that affects how I tension. I have used the
> #3 bobbin as the weaver instead of the #2 bobbin - is this ok? Should
> I try to turn right handed at this stage
> > My question however is as a left hander, I want
> the worker bobbin to
> > be in the left hand and that affects how I
> tension. I have used the
> > #3 bobbin as the weaver instead of the #2 bobbin -
> is this ok? Should
> > I try to turn right handed at this stage in my
> life?
I agree with B
My question however is as a left hander, I want the worker bobbin to
be in the left hand and that affects how I tension. I have used the
#3 bobbin as the weaver instead of the #2 bobbin - is this ok? Should
I try to turn right handed at this stage in my life?
Whatever works ;)
I don't carry the
I have been trying to follow the leaves thread as this is one area in
lace I am having difficulties with. I can (sort of) get a leaf shape
if I leave the bobbins on the pillow and hold the worker. The leaf
looks like some caterpillar has nibbled at the edges as I have not
mastered the tensionin
> ...the "voyageur" : bobbin who move to make the leaf
> (sorry, I don't remerber the english word).
I like it...I like it! That's a more interesting name
than the mundane English 'worker' or 'weaver'. I'll
try to remember it.
Alice in Oregon - enjoying a last bit of sun before
the next storm
Hi Everybody,
Tess Parrish a écrit :
I have been making leaves in the Brioude style for quite a while now.
However, I can't bring my right thumb over to pick up the bobbins. (
This has to do with what must be arthritis in the thumb joint.) So,
when I turn my right hand over to pick up the b
I am not familiar with the Brioude style for leaves, but from the
descriptions, it sounds like the same method that Anny Noben-Slegers
uses. I've tried that, and may as well be using the toes on my feet!!
It does not work for me at all!!
If someone is familiar with Brioude and also with Anny
On Thursday, November 9, 2006, at 11:51 AM, Adele Shaak wrote:
I've been following this discussion in some bewilderment because I
could have sworn there weren't any instructions in my Cluny de Brioude
book that involve strange and difficult thumb movements. I've just
looked again - still can'
I have been making leaves in the Brioude style for quite a while now.
However, I can't bring my right thumb over to pick up the bobbins.
I've been following this discussion in some bewilderment because I
could have sworn there weren't any instructions in my Cluny de Brioude
book that involve
I have been making leaves in the Brioude style for quite a while now.
However, I can't bring my right thumb over to pick up the bobbins. (
This has to do with what must be arthritis in the thumb joint.) So,
when I turn my right hand over to pick up the bobbin, I grasp it with
my two first fin
That's exactly what Christine instructed us to do in our workshop last weekend.
So as a result, not only are the leaves wide, they tend to be "plump" as well.
We were working with variegated thread which is relatively large, so the
leaves were "huge"! She instructed us to gently pull the thre
I recall that Christine Springett says something similar, in the first
Bedfordshire video. I tried it and it worked! Similarly with plaits,
you work to just past the point where you want the plait to enter the
work, or make a change, place the pin and tension to snug the stitches
into place.
Now co
Veronica Sorenson used to advise making your leaves slightly longer than
you needed so that when you did the 1/2 reefknot with the non-weaver
pair ,or joined the leaf into the work, the leaf would then draw up into
the shape wanted.
Sheila in a very sunny, but cold Sawbo'.
www.lace-helpandhist
Hi Alice
I notice when making leaves that that is when any of my threads will
misbehave, more than with other elements. I should think it *is* the
excess contorting put on the particular weaver bobbin - you could try
altering your technique, or simply switching bobbins from time to time. Or
- try a
I have been working on a project that has a quantity of leaves. I seem to
be having more than normal problem with making a smooth leaf. I usually
can do better than the leaves I've been producing. It made me wonder if my
thread is not compatible with leaf formation.
I'm using black Egyptian
- Original Message -
From: "ann DURANT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "A Thompson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2003 11:32 PM
Subject: Re: [lace] Leaves in machine lace
> Does this maypole machine have anything in common with French knitting?
Yes, the Barmen lace machine, which is really a braiding and plaiting
machine, makes plaited leaves that are very similar to those in hand
made bobbin laces. They are rather stiff in appearance and tend to be
parallel in shape. This machine also makes Spiders.
The Barmen machine works on the princ
Yes there can be machine-made leaves in machine-made laces. Jeannette if you
have the book "How to recognize Machine Laces" from Pat Earnshaw you find
good exaples f.e. page 71.
And I can tell you you recognize them immediately.
Ilske from Hamburg in Germany where it rains cats and dogs
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To unsubs
Is it possible for a machine to make leaves? I have in my mind that leaves
are always hand made but is it correct? Machines are supposed to be so
wonderful :-))).
Jeanette Fischer, Western Cape, South Africa.
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