There is a frame that holds the boot to the fuel distributor. Be very careful,
there is ONE short screw, and if you put a long one in that hole you can crush
the transducer for the meter plate position sensor.
Replace the idle valve hoses at the same time, the one between the valve and
intak
It was the Chevy Vega that had the failed aluminum block.
GM gave up on it (because Ed Cole screwed it up by removing a water passage
between 1&2 and 3&4 to "save money", with the result that thermal expansion
pinched the pistons and ate up the cylinder -- original design worked great
after the
I had big air leaks on mine around that barb, the old boot was rock hard. It
also leaks around the throttle body when it gets old as it shrinks and the
clamp becomes loose. Tighten the clamp and it may fix the leak for a bit, but
if it does, the boot is shot.
Peter
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Bad injectors will give you rough idle and mixture control issues.
When you replace them, leave the lines off at the injector and crank a bit
(watch for spilt fuel, of course) -- crap collects in the lines and you can
plug up new ones making them as bad as the old ones!
I need to replace the on
It's going into "limp home" mode -- check the switchover valves for EGR, boost
control, and manifold flaps if it has them. A bad switchover will result in
all sorts of ills, cured by replacing it.
A read-out of the error codes should help.
Peter
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Buy Padgid. Or Textar for the rear, typically in stock at most FLAPS around
here.
Everything else howls.
Peter
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Pagid and Textar have a hard rubber coating on the back side of the pads. I
suspect this is why they don't squeal.
Also make sure the caliper is clean so the pads fit flat against the frames,
remove all rust and crud, and make sure the face of the piston is clean. Some
rust on the piston allo
On the W115 the switch is on the side of the transmission where the shift rod
goes in.
Cheap and cheerful fix is to pull the plug and stuff a wire in to jump the
connection, but that will prevent the backup lights from working.
I don't know where the other connectors are. On that car, you woul
That would do it. Probably tightened down on a dirty seal at some point.
Reminds me I need to get them done in the 300D soon, may have the same issue on
#6.
Peter
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Idle will smooth out when you burn the carbon out of the pre-chamber, they crud
up with bad combustion. The turbo may have some carbon on the turbine side
too, which will go away.
Peter
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You will be able to tell if it has been converted as the fitting are screw on
for R12. Both cars were manufactured with R12, but if they have been serviced
since about 1995 they have been switched to R134a or one of the hydrocarbon
refrigerants.
But you really want to do the proper testing a
Big PITA. You need a good press and adapters to get the old bearing out and
the new one in.
Bearing failures are quite rare, and result in excessive runout and low
frequency thumping or grinding, not a whine.
Check the diff and the center bearing, both are much more likely sources,
especiall
The problem is the lead free solder, it was a fairly new thing then, and what
they used cracks badly in use. Takes out relays, especially smart ones, CC
amps, and PBCUs.
Can be an issue with engine electronics too, not the "brain" so much as the
connectors coming loose.
Peter
Actually, since most locomotives in the US at the beginning of the rail era
were purchased from the UK, there were essentially two guages -- broad gauge (8
ft) and "standard" which is what everyone else in Britain used besides the
Great Western, Brummel's railroad (ifrc). Broad gauge is VASTLY
Or people who believe in "supply side" economics or or that "de-regulation"
increases economic well being.
Peter
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Lol, had many break but not in that location.
Reminds me, know that I can actually work on cars again, I need to replace the
left front on the TE.
Peter
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Replace the condenser, it's plugged.
Peter
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This is why I drive them. Same sort of thing happened to me, guy in a work van
ran a traffic light and hit me in the driver's door. Battered but alive, car
was a mess.
Peter
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Anaerobic digestion produces hydrogen and methane gas. Since there is no
pentacyclosiloxane in it (the stuff that makes your hair shiny in shampoo and
conditioner) it can be compressed, dried, and burned in either a turbine or
internal combustion engine to run a generator.
Land fill methane is
Barrier type hose is pretty cheap. Only caveat is to make sure fitting
orientations are the same as on the old hose.
Peter
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615 engine will have an R4, 603 will have the Nippondenso. Not
interchangeable, the R4 won't fit on the 603.
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Use the dealer part, the aftermarkets break across the upper bolt hole or snap
at the bend due to poor manufacturing.
Dealer part should last the rest of the life of the car, aftermarket will last
a couple years at best.
BTDT.
Peter
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They tend to air lock when they run dry. I have a slow well, this is a common
occurance here.
Turn it off for half an hour and it should burp up a bunch of air and be fine,
at least mine is when that happens.
Peter
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New key from the dealer.
Peter
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Typically there is a knock sensor on the engine, and ignition timing is
retarded when you get knock, may also richen the fuel.
The difference can be 10% or more, depending on driving conditions and fuel,
but usually it's cheaper to use premium.
Peter
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There is also the point that using mid-grade in my TE burns off the spark plug
electrodes, too -- no knock sensor. I always use premium in it, just the cost
of having a Benz.
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Since ethanol has been added for gasoline as an oxygen carrier for more than 40
years, it's not very likely that it causes damage to fuel systems unless they
are very poorly designed (take note GM, this isn't 1955, eh?)
Flex fuel vehicles can run on 85% ethanol, most "non flexfuel" vehicles
com
Very unlikely to be a spark problem.
I would suspect a clogged idle circuit in the carburetor.
Peter
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I don't remember when Ford used the variable geometry carb (two barrel with
moving venturi and metering needles like a Strombery side draft), so that could
be an issue as well.
However, the idle circuit is active up to maybe quarter throttle, much more
than you would think.
Also, disconnect th
Choke pull-off is a possibility, and easy to see.
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But a bad pull-off can indeed cause that specific problem -- a graduate school
buddy had that problem with his junk Buick of similar age, a piece of vacuum
line fixed him right up.
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I suspect they are Kevlar re-inforced, similar to tire sidewalls. Not worth
the effort to repair or reverse engineer. Considering the failure of the front
one can total the car and seriously injure the occupants, I'd feel much better
with a genuine Benz replacement
Peter
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It is a jeep thing, but it can be controlled -- new ball joints, big steering
damper, proper tires and good balance, and NO slop in the steering. Have to
have good front axles, too. Anything that starts vibration will trigger it,
and it's very difficult to dampen out once it starts,
It is nec
Heavy trucks do have solid axles, but not anywhere close to a Jeep font end.
Shimmy is a known problem on all solid axles, good designs minimize it. Our
old Ramble could get a good one going toward the end of it's life. The problem
is that there is a solid link between the wheels, and one shak
Quick and dirty "prime" is to remove the pressure cap, squeeze the
upper radiator hose flat, then crimp the small vent line to the
expansion tank shut and release the upper hose. This will pull coolant
through the lower radiator hose and heater core back into the head.
If you have a bubble
I forget, is this a diesel or a gasser? Gasser belt tensioners have
to be replaced quite often. Diesels, which have a vastly better
tensioner system, only once or twice a decade will the spring break.
Have had a few shocks go bad and knock, but the belt doesn't slip.
Peter
_
Try K&K manufacturing. They used to make nearly all the body panels
for W115 and W109 cars, so it's possible they do W123s as well. Don't
know for a fact since it's been a while since I thought about
restoring one.
Peter
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Repeat the job in a few thousand miles -- when they are "tight",
carbon builds up on the valve stems, and gives you a false setting.
As the carbon wears off with the added clearance, they go tight again
and still don't seal. If they go tight in a few thousand miles, set
them at bit loose
I use only Pagid or Textar pads. Neither squeak, nearly all FLAPS
ones do.
Peter
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Do not expect to take long trips in a Smart -- my brother's BIL drove
one from Karlsruhe to Berlin a few years ago just to see. He took the
train home, those tiny tires and very short wheelbase result in
constant jouncing. If it's miserable on a short trip (by American
standards) it's too
Rate of convictions is probably a good predictor of number of
corruption events. In a really bad situation, there may be no
enforecement, which would lower the rate, but I suspect most of these
are state vs county or Feds vs State convictions, so the logic holds.
Not where I want to live,
The leaking points are:
fuel distributor to throttle body boot (buried on that car, you have
to remove the manifold I think, but you have to anyway, see point #2)
seals between intake manifold halves (this is an issue for all the V8s
of that design type)
Idle control valve hoses
Injector
Lower control arms come with new bushings and new ball joints, so it's
just a swap complete. Have to do a front end alignment in either case
if you replace the bushings, ball joints usually not.
Labor is about the same, it only take a couple minutes to pop the
bushings and ball joints in a
Replace the radiator cap.
Peter
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All posts are the result of
My brother had the same experience this spring when some idiot pulled
out in front of my niece and ripped the left headlight and fender up
on the 300E. Initial offer was $1600 and dumpster the car, my brother
vigorously objected, and they eventually admitted a comparable car in
similar con
Kelley Blue Book on-line is a good resource -- they list a 1987 300E
as retailing between $4000 and $9500 depending on condition, and in a
case of accident damage they owe you the RETAIL (replacement) cost,
not the WHOLESALE (trade-in) value of the car, since their insured
damaged YOUR car
If you take a neglected tranny with ancient non-synthetic oil in it
and flush it with fresh synthetic fluid, it's possible to remove
enough varnish from the valve body that shifting problems arise.
Also, in the 70's, synthetic oils didn't have enough seal swelling
material in them, and rubb
Ethanol can cause trouble with some rubber seals and plastic parts,
but the issue should have been addressed by now. Ethanol has been
used in gasoline for a couple decades, after all.
MTBE is actually worse, but ethanol got all the blame.
Peter
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Lol, I've been home brewing for a couple decades now.
You can indeed make decent beer at much less cost that the main line
brews bought at the liquor store, and you can make things that were
once unobtainable.
In the last twenty years, the quality of microbrewery beer has
increased quite
Lol, a bomber (besides Wilton) is a 20 oz bottle. More than I can
drink at a sitting these days, but my younger friends love them.
Peter
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I had the same problem with two Quantum lawn mower engines. Seems as
they age the safety brake cable that also runs the cut-off stretches a
bit (and is non-adjustable, for obvious reasons) and the cut-off won't
open to let it run.
Nearly drove me nuts finding it, as it was intermittant mos
Very likely it's either out of fuel or you have a badly leaking line.
timing belt would make a lot of noise when it went as the valves hit
the pistons.
Have you checked the accuracy of the fuel gauge?
Peter
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It will click when power is applied. If not, and it's the Bosch
rotary pump, the armature has separated from the solenoid. I think
that is the problem with my Volvo -- ran poorly for a while then
refused to start, no fuel delivery.
Pull in and check that it pops open and stays open when p
First I would attempt to print. I've been surprised before.
If it's clogged, those printers typically have a removable head. Get
some bulk ink and refillable cartridges (this will cost less than new
carts from the official source), remove the printhead, and apply some
diluted Windex or 40
It's a standard radiator cap. A pressurizer should fit well enough to
pump it up.
Peter
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The hp number is a misprint -- the hp rating for my 72 4.5L is 232,
I'd guess an engine 1/3 larger would have at least 1/3 more hp, so
think 375, which is more like the reality.
Those cars were scary fast, and the engines were usually somewhat
hotter than the actual rating would indicate.
Being the owner of a now defunct 280 SE 4.5L and never having had the
pleasure of driving one in new condition, I find the review pretty
snarky, especially the "looking down the nose at" comments on
replacing the overhead cams with pushrods.
The American competitors for a Benz in those days
Yup, the 3.5L is the "stroker" version -- stroke is shorter than the
bore is wide. Turns 6200 rpm, believe it or not, and produces
prodigious horsepower at high rpm. Sort of a dog from standstill,
though, that's why Benz switched to the 4.5L in later years -- more
grunt off the line.
V
Remember the 3.5 was a stroker motor. Rev limit was 6200 rpm, so 4000
at 80 gives around 125 mph for the top end, which was the design spec
(same for the 4.5L with 3.23 gears and a 5600 rpm limit, or some thing
like that). A real screamer.
No tachometer on the 72 US model, so I don't know
No, way too fast for the brakes and tires. Remember, radial tires
were a brand new invention then, and modern tires are vastly better
than what we drove on 40 years ago. Also, that W109/109 chassis did
not have anti-dive front suspension geometry, and slamming on the
brakes at speed would
When I lived in Ontario about 20 years ago, insurance was better and
half the cost, at least for me.
It was also no-fault.
BC in those days had single payer Provencial insurance, it was half
what you paid in Ontario.
Peter
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Now that the founders have all retired, there is a faint possibility
that Microsoft will acquire a rational business model based on
cooperative development and quality product, as opposed to the
monopoly "interuptive innovation" model that is such a crock of crap.
The real innovators are t
Get the Euro headlights. Vast improvement, altnough the w123
shouldn't be any worse than any other car with sealed beams. The real
dog is the W124, worst headlights I've ever had with the DOT ones.
Euro's are great, vastly better illumination and not much trouble for
oncoming drivers.
95 has Euro spec headlights from the factory, one of the reasons for
buying one.
Peter
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It's not the actual OS as much as all the junk attached to it.
And no, it's NOT worse than Windows. Not enough OS left it if crashes
to DO an internet restore, since it is still, so far as I can tell,
running CPM-86 down in some dark basement through a thousand layers of
interface software
H4 uses a different socket, I think.
If you have Euro's, you have the H4 socket, if you have DOT headlamps,
I don't think you do. Not possible to do a fast swap.
Peter
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I think Euros were all H4 bulbs, only the DOT headlamps were not.
That said, people in other parts of the world used to buy US DOT
headlamp assemblies for the W108/109 chassis cars since the Euro spec
were single bulb and the US spec was dual bult -- even with crappy
Halogen sealed beam he
Unfortunately, some security upgrades can cause serious issued on
older (more than two years older than the OS) machines.
Crappy support from Apple -- they really only want you to use a device
for a year or two and buy another one, in spite of the fact that
usually their hardware is very ro
Try again and make sure it's plugged in and set to never sleep.
I have never been able to understand why both PC and Apple computers
can "go to sleep" when a program is active in the foreground
Peter
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This is why I keep a bootable disk around -- you can make a full copy
of the OS onto a DVD or external drive using Disk Utility or Carbon
Copy Cloner, and that way you can always at least boot the stinking
thing and get on line.
Do you have another Mac around and a Firewire cable? You shou
The resistor (for low speed) is shot. It's by the receiver/dryer,
most likely it's cracked. Common failure. Might just be broken or
corroded wires, and it's possible the connection in the fuse box came
apart, but not terribly likely.
Peter
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Use the factory copper plated ones. Otherwise they tend to seize.
Peter
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We have the same dilemma -- the 300 SDL is getting up there in years
and miles, so is the 87 300D, and I am not excited about the
replacements. The quality is simply not there, after Chrysler got
involved Benz seems to have decided to make very expensive disposable
cars, with electronic ev
Here's the drill:
Get everything clean and dry. Use carb cleaner on the slot in the
lower cover where the seal goes and blow dry with compressed air.
Put a small amount of the sealant in each corner and lay the seal into
the slot dry and clean. Make sure you do not trap anything, includin
The sealant at each end of the slot where the seal goes is what keeps
it from leaking oil -- it almost never actually leaks under or over
the seal, but the corner dribbles.
Serious design issue, there does not appear to be a sealant that does
not eventually leak. Semi-hardening ones are th
Silicone dielectric grease will work fine, it's just to make the
bottom of the cover slippery so it won't roll the seal lip over.
A new cam seal is a good idea, they are cheap and if the one in there
fails, you have to replace the front cover again.
Peter
__
Bilstein HD shocks are very hard -- made that mistake in the Volvo.
Might be fine in a "performance" car for a youngster with good kidneys
and a weak mind, but for normal sedan driving to and from work, very
bouncy. Very stiff.
Peter
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BMWs are maintenance heavy as a rule. A blast to drive, but break
often.
Peter
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W124s and anything that uses that suspension do not as well, just
support the spring link and remove shock and pivot bolts and lower
link, spring falls out.
I'll be doing this soon, need to replace the bushing and bearing in
the link and wheel carrier, plus rear subframe bushings, all that'
Fronts require a spring compressor, the spring is at least four inches
longer relaxed that the space the control arm will allow before it
pops out. Very dangerous.
Peter
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Feeling every pavement crack in your kidneys gets old pretty quick on
the interstate.
Peter
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More likely a sunroof drain. The windshield is glued in, they rarely
leak unless the body is bent or there is rust starting.
Check both front and rear -- the rear drain is in the C pillar.
Peter
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Check the condition of the rubber connector and the plastic line going
to the shutoff, and the condition of the connection of the supply line
at the main vacuum line.
All that plastic line gets brittle, and it's not than unusual to flex
a portion of it when working on something else and ha
The Solex 4-barrel on the M110 was a mess -- avoid them. Even Solex
could never get them working properly in Europe according to my friend
who worked on MBs at the time. D-Jet is much much better.
However, they are still gas hogs. Mid 20's at the best, usually less
in the city, almost as
Actually, there a simple but difficult to properly repair cause for
blower failure in the W114/115 -- the damper flap that switches from
heat to AC has a change-over switch on it that switches the fan
control over between the AC blower and the heater blower. If this
servo (vacuum operated)
Best part of that job is the Scotch Ale!
I need to brew one for the club competition, in spite of the fact that
I don't like super high alcohol beers and the only way to win is to
make it a barley wine -- we are suffering from "gravity creep" just
like we suffer from "hop creep" -- if some
Check the tie rod ends and the steering damper too -- one of the
leading causes of dead tie rod ends is a bad steering damper allowing
them to get beaten to death.
Check the idler arm bushings as well -- if the idler arm moves up and
down at all, they are shot.
Peter
It will drive much better without the loose joint!
Peter
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Al
Six big ones might be a bit high, but they really are wonderful cars.
That one has incorrect aftermarket exhaust, you'd need to replace it
with a correct TimeValve one (which will last forever), but otherwise
seems pretty nice.
Loved mine, but it's gotta go away, too rusty to make it drive
Sweet cars, but be prepared for TERRIBLE milage -- I got 17 on the
highway, 12 in town.
Peter
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I've never found the torque converter transmission to be "sleepy" --
all that torque and a top end of 125 mph, what more can you ask for?
Mine was a pain to drive on the highway -- always wanted to go 90
plus, had to keep lifting my foot off the gas.
Peter
It was quite common to drop a 615 in these in Germany -- lowered the
tax rate and gave decent performance with much better milage.
It is better than a comparable Cadillac or Oldsmobile -- in that era
they got six mpg, as low as 4 if you drove hard. Huge honking things
that rolled like whal
I'm sure there is at least one heritage and heirloom apple site on the
internet, with pictures.
You can indeed identify your tree by the apples.
My boss up in Canada had some trees up the hill behind the house that
I think were SnowQueen or Famouse (sp) -- one of the original named
apples
Lol, my brother just spent $780 to get the turbo out of the wrecked
300D fixed, they had to bore out the housing and install oversized
bearings it was so worn. Guess I should have replaced it before I
wrecked it, eh?
Anyway, I'll be taking the one from the SDL down and getting it re-
done
A Prius for me would be a problem, I do way too much open road
driving, where they get 22mpg. Takes a lot of gasoline to haul that
huge battery down the highway for half an hour with no regenerative
braking.
They do great in town, but not so good long distance.
My uncle likes his, bought
The W124 300D uses the same turbo as the 86-87 SDL, but not the same
one as the later 300Ds with the 5 cylinder (those had servo controlled
boost, not mechanical). Not very many around, and I'd not trust any
"used" turbo, it would have to go and get checked out before I
bothered to install
It is nearly impossible to tell if a turbo is good just by looking at
it or turning the compressor by hand.
Really need to have someone with the proper tools measure bearing
clearance , and if it's used it's gonna fail much sooner than one that
has just been rebuilt.
I'll look just for fu
Advertised rebuild price is $550, about what I expected since it cost
me $400 or so 12 years ago when I did the one in the Volvo. Hopefully
that won't be much worse from oil starvation damage, I'll probably
haul it down tomorrow as my brother is doing the swap in the SDL
tonight.
Makes a
Ebay has a used one (with manifolds, that I don't need, I have two
sets already) for $450. For the extra couple hundred I'll get mine
fixed, that way I know it's good!
Peter
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All hybrids get worse long distance highway milage than the equivalent
sized non-hybrid because you have an undersized engine dragging a huge
battery with little or no regenerative braking -- when do you lift
your foot completely off the gas on the interestate? That means you
use battery p
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