Yes, of course 180V would have been enough for my circuit, but Paul
was after high voltage drivers (he mentioned 300V) and I wasn't sure
if 180V would be enough in his situation.
We can discuss this all day long, but it seems to be trying to teach a pig
to sing.
I don't really see the need
Even though 300V was mentioned, I believe the actual intent was driving
nixies. Only,the original poster can say for sure.
I'm not questioning your competence, in electronics, in general, but with
nixies specifically. I'd be a lot more diplomatic with a neophyte. Yes, you
can design your
Fair enough.
I did measure that I-V curve long before I started drafting the
circuit as I had to figure out how long it took before ionization
would start and how much dimming I could get out of these tubes. For
my concept watch I used ULN2803 drivers which work perfectly fine in
most cases, but
On 3/11/12 3:09 PM, Cobra007 wrote:
Fair enough.
I did measure that I-V curve long before I started drafting the
circuit as I had to figure out how long it took before ionization
would start and how much dimming I could get out of these tubes. For
my concept watch I used ULN2803 drivers which
A fine way to achieve the PWM dimming you want with a low-voltage Nixie
driver is to have a current measurement device in the power supply's
feedback path, which is conveniently provided from the common emitter
terminal of the TD62083 (ULN2083).
I think this is what you have done in your
This reminds me of a famous interview question:
Q: Does complexity increase reliability or decrease reliability?
A: Complexity DECREASES reliability.
On 3/11/2012 12:27 PM, threeneurons wrote:
...but now you want to add complexity. Complexity that may not add
reliability.
--
You received
Then don't turn on the other tube at that time! I turn on only one tube
at a time, which removes that problem.
That is not completely true, it's not that I turn on both tubes at the
same time, it is because the current starts to flow through the wrong
tube because IT CAN. With a 170V anode
On 3/11/12 4:44 PM, Cobra007 wrote:
Then don't turn on the other tube at that time! I turn on only one tube
at a time, which removes that problem.
That is not completely true, it's not that I turn on both tubes at the
same time, it is because the current starts to flow through the wrong
I mentioned 300V because that was the rating of the transistors.
Cobra, the DMMT5551S would actually work very well for my IN12 driving
application, and I also appreciate the bases being on one side, thanks
for helping me discover this component!
-Paul
On Mar 11, 11:06 pm, David Forbes
I think you can compare it very much to the result you see when one
tube is broken. If the second tube doesn't ionize, it is basically the
same as if it is not there. In your case, suppose you take out 1 tube,
you will most likely find that the anode voltage of the other tube
will not rise above
Glad I could help Paul, it's good to hear somebody appreciates a
comment :-).
Michel
On Mar 12, 2:22 pm, Paul S paul.c.sam...@gmail.com wrote:
I mentioned 300V because that was the rating of the transistors.
Cobra, the DMMT5551S would actually work very well for my IN12 driving
application,
My HV power supply is quite a bit different from your one, I vary the
supplied energy as well as the on time during multiplexing, they are
2 individual PWM signals. So there is not necessary a long delay
between switching left-tube and right-tube. In fact, the PWM signal
for multiplexing only
I don't think that's a good idea. Nixie tubes look much better when
driven by a low duty cycle with full current, rather than a high duty
cycle with very low current. The cathode won't light fully at lower
current, and the glow is more fuzzy and indistinct.
Try it and see.
That is
@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Adam Jacobs
Sent: donderdag 1 maart 2012 16:06
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Alternative to MPSA42 for direct drive clocks.
The 74141 or K155ID1 will both work fine for cathode side blanking, provided
On the production Nixie Ramos clocks I intend to use
these:http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/PMBTA42DS.pdfThey are dual
NPN 300v transistors that are really cheap. The downside is that there
are only 2 transistors per chip, so that's 5 per digit, so they are
going to significantly
Is it possible that those russian 74141's were both from the same bad
batch? I've made a lot of clocks and only ever had one fail on me (it
failed the same way as you describe). For about $2/chip and a failure rate
(for me) of about 1 in 100.
-Adam
On Sat, Mar 10, 2012 at 3:21 PM, Cobra007
...This is the case with the DMMT5551S. Only downside is that they are
180V models, so they are probably barely sufficient for your clock. I
know there's been a lot going around that 50V would be enough etc etc,
but if you really want the maximum performance of your clock/watch
Could you clarify something for me? Are you saying is that a 74141
should not be used for cathode-side blanking? What about the Russian
K155ID1, which I assume has similar specs to the 74141?
On Feb 28, 7:24 pm, David Forbes dfor...@dakotacom.net wrote:
On 2/28/12 4:48 PM, Deviantgeek wrote:
On 3/1/12 7:52 AM, Ron Schuster wrote:
Could you clarify something for me? Are you saying is that a 74141
should not be used for cathode-side blanking? What about the Russian
K155ID1, which I assume has similar specs to the 74141?
The 74141 is not designed for blanking. The Russian chip is
The 74141 or K155ID1 will both work fine for cathode side blanking,
provided that your HV supply is a normal value (180vdc). If you are
using something very high, like 250v, then you're going to start running
into the problem that the 74141/K155ID1 are not able to extinguish the
nixie. FYI,
: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Adam Jacobs
Sent: donderdag 1 maart 2012 16:06
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Alternative to MPSA42 for direct drive clocks.
The 74141 or K155ID1 will both work fine for cathode side blanking
] Re: Alternative to MPSA42 for direct drive clocks.
The 74141 or K155ID1 will both work fine for cathode side blanking, provided
that your HV supply is a normal value (180vdc). If you are using something
very high, like 250v, then you're going to start running into the problem
that the 74141
I chose the HV5530 way back in 2003, and never looked for anything
else.
They've powered Z568, Z570, IN-18 and GR414 monster nixies without a
single failure across a few thousand clocks.
Here's a schematic example, used on a range of four different models:
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