date:20100829

Out on a rather long Pug ride today.  Climbing a mother-steep hill,
about 12 miles from home, out of the saddle  pushing hard, SMACK.
Chain snapped 5 links away from the master-link.

Ribs directly into handlebars, pubic bone directly into toptube...
ouch.

Slow, limping, walk home.

Check your chain before it checks you.

Just thought I'd share my day...

-Scott

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[RBW] Re: Check 'dem Chains Folks

2010-08-29 Thread Bob Cooper

Ouch, Scott, that must have hurt.

Any further info? Manufacturing defect, worn chain, damage to chain
from stone?

I know these things are hard to diagnose.

Ride safe,

Bob

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[RBW] Re: Metric century is in the can!

2010-08-29 Thread Angus

Some of those pictures bring back memories...I spend many a mile on
the Santa-Anna River Trail.

Thanks for posting these David!

Angus

On Aug 28, 8:48 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
 Success!  A GREAT ride with no IT band pain!  I've been stretching, taking
 anti-inflammatories, moved exclusively to cleats (SPuDs) pushed out as wide
 as possible, and lowered the saddles a touch.  Some combination of the above
 lets me ride longer distances, at least 63 miles
 worth!http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4935845053/in/datetaken/
 I was hoping to do a garage to the beach ride with a pick up, but instead
 drove half way and then did an out and back.  Strong headwinds gave me a 13
 mph average going downhill to the ocean, and then propelled me to an 18 mph
 average back up!  What's amazing in my mind is how good I felt through the
 ride.  A little bit of neck pain around 40 miles.  Stopping and stretching
 real good fixed that right up.  I'm kinda' thinking of trying to do an
 Imperial century next weekend, spouse willing.  A TON of cyclists out
 today.  Just amazing and

 Visual documentation 
 here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/archives/date-taken/2010/08...

 --
 Cheers,
 David
 Redlands, CA

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[RBW] Re: FS: Brake set, Stem, Bar, Saddle, Clips

2010-08-29 Thread Johnny Alien

The saddle is gone but the brake set and stem is still available.

On Aug 26, 4:54 pm, Johnny Alien johnnyal...@verizon.net wrote:
 The handlebars are sold, everything else is still available.  Feel
 free to make an offer I need to clear some thing off of my workspace.

 On Aug 26, 7:28 am, Johnny Alien johnnyal...@verizon.net wrote:



  I have the following items for sale.  Price are postage paid.

  Nitto made Ritchey Force 22.2 stem from 1993 MB-2: This item is in
  very good condition.  Very little wear at all. $20

 http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/Johnny_Alien/0825001947.jpght...

  Nitto made Ritchey Force handlebar from 1993 MB-2: Also in fantastic
  condition.  Very minor scratches that you cannot see unless close up
  and anal.  Almost new. $30

 http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/Johnny_Alien/0821001258.jpght...

  Avocet Racing Saddle:  Great saddle with little wear but a small tear
  in the back sadly.  Small but still a blemish.  $18

 http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/Johnny_Alien/0825001945.jpght...

  Dia-Compe Blaze BRS 400 barke set from 1991 RB-2:  some of the text
  has rubbed off of the left brake lever but other than that they are
  in  great condition.  Nice light weight sidepulls. $20

 http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/Johnny_Alien/0825001946.jpg

  Christophe Pedal Clips: Old and french (I think).  They need cleaned
  up but they are nice and vintage.  $7

 http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/Johnny_Alien/0825001946a.jpg

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunqa and SO update on Riv site!

2010-08-29 Thread nawrock



I am going to send a deposit  on a SO.  After having to sell my QB a couple 
years ago I am missing that bike soo much.  And I too would want sidepulls and 
I really dont care about any of the logos, its the frame design that apeals to 
me, it is brilliant. 



Dave Nawrocki 

Fort Collins, CO 

- Original Message - 
From: Rocky B rivvyr...@gmail.com 
To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 9:21:30 PM 
Subject: [RBW] Re: Hunqa and SO update on Riv site! 

I kinda hope they do go with sidepulls with the SO.  It'll make the QB 
and SO more distinguishable from each other. 

On Aug 28, 9:39 am, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote: 
 I kinda like that they're leaning towards sidepulls (Silvers I 
 imagine) for the SO. I've grown to really like those brakes on my 
 Hilsen, they're just a lot easier to deal with than cantis. 

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Fort Collins, CO 

- Original Message - 
From: Rocky B rivvyr...@gmail.com 
To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 9:21:30 PM 
Subject: [RBW] Re: Hunqa and SO update on Riv site! 

I kinda hope they do go with sidepulls with the SO.  It'll make the QB 
and SO more distinguishable from each other. 

On Aug 28, 9:39 am, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote: 
 I kinda like that they're leaning towards sidepulls (Silvers I 
 imagine) for the SO. I've grown to really like those brakes on my 
 Hilsen, they're just a lot easier to deal with than cantis. 

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[RBW] Re: Drop Bars vs. Non-drops


 Respectfully .. you are making the errant assumption that to ride
with an Alba bar(or Moustache or similiar) he/she is riding bolt
upright. What is bolt upright anyways 90 degrees? That's really
hard to do.  Your actual position on the bike depends on the TT length
and the stem used.  To be bolt upright you'd need a short TT and a
short stem, fine for flat city riding I suppose, but it must be
awkward.

Many pro mtb riders have bars equal to , and higher than saddle
height. Their body position ranges from about 40-70 degrees .  
the latter being pretty upright .  The key is they have sufficiently
long top tubes, and they use their levers(arms) to vary their position
as needed.  There is no difference in flat, upright or drop bars when
it comes to body angle while riding .. it depends on setting up
the bars you use to fit the particular rider.

For me the idea that you need to be hunched over to ride effectively
has been busted. It may be fine and necessary  for racing, but even
racers don't ride like this for long periods, and they are paid to go
fast.

My local riding is very hilly, with grades up to 19%.  Like I said
earlier, the bar makes no difference uphill, I climb the same as I did
with drops. Downhill though, I like the Alba better. I used to be all
about getting the max speed I could. I never noticed my surrounds much
though in my futile quest for speed. with the Alba bar, I can go full
tuck if I want to and go fast  but I prefer to sit up some so I
can take in the whole scenic picture. I can't tell you how many times,
in my quest for speed . I overlook where I'm at. My mind is so
concerned with getting there I'm deaf, dumb and blind to where I'm
at. That sucks really. Life is short . .  . . so short.


Hill climbing and riding into headwinds is mostly in the head. This is
very revealing . Is the hill/wind an obstacle or an Allie ? It doesn't
matter your position, or your physical ability . .. .  you are where
you are, you do the best you can, and you benefit from the experience,
period.   All the thoughts of I coulda woulda shoulda . and the
yeah, but ..  are just bologna.



On Aug 28, 9:37 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:

 I do think it's safe to say a bolt upright position is very poor for
 climbing, because you cannot use several important muscle groups
 effectively.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Drop Bars vs. Non-drops

2010-08-29 Thread Bruce

I ride M-bars like this guy, maybe I lean a little further forward:

http://sheldonbrown.com/bridgestone/images/xo1-rba-8-91.jpg

I can just about lay flat on them when descending and find it a surprisingly 
aero position, as well as one that lets me rest. The M bars are on the bike I 
use the most for hill training rides.

Bruce




From: Garth garth...@gmail.com
To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Sun, August 29, 2010 8:20:34 AM
Subject: [RBW] Re: Drop Bars vs. Non-drops


Respectfully .. you are making the errant assumption that to ride
with an Alba bar(or Moustache or similiar) he/she is riding bolt
upright. 



  

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: midge, junebug, woodchipper, etc

Yes, I agree with Jim.  If versatillity is a hallmark of the Riv brand, then 
threadless is quite an appropriate design consideration, or at least an option.

From: Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com
To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Sun, August 29, 2010 12:41:48 AM
Subject: [RBW] Re: WTB: midge, junebug, woodchipper, etc

Seth makes a good point, in that many Riv customers and aspiring Riv
customers prefer the classic quill aesthetic, and maybe Grant has
decided that filling this niche is an important part of the RBW
business model. But threadless steerers have been mainstream long
enough now, that even retro-grouches can appreciate that it is a
proven design. I'm not going to get into my long list of reasons to
favor 9/8 threadless, but in the context of this discussion, one key
point has surfaced: there are a lot of interesting handlebars that
can't be used with available quill stems. If a bar has a 31.8 clamp
area, and many newer bars are only available in 31.8, there is no
quill stem that will accommodate it. If the bar is not a single
continuous bend - think h-bar - then a removable face plate is needed,
again, not generally available in a quill stem. If versatility is a
hallmark of the RBW brand, then the quill stem runs counter to that
ideal, given the current huge variety of threadless stems and
handlebars that cannot be used on Rivendell frames without some kind
of kludgy adapter.

Anyway, I just went for my first ride of any distance with Woodchipper
bars on my Post-Riv Curt Goodrich A/R. I ran the Shimano bar-end
shifters up top on thumbie mounts (one Paul, one IRD, in the interest
of science). I like the bar quite a bit, but may screw around with the
angle a little (very little). And, since I was changing things around,
I replaced the Paul Cantis with Tektro v-brakes. I once was of the
opinion that the Paul cantis had great stopping power, and they do,
for cantis, but a couple times this evening, I was pleasantly
surprised by the massive increase in braking power from the v-brakes.
This swap was inspired by a LHT I just set up for my wife a couple
months ago. With cantis, she lacked the hand strength to bring the
bike to a quick stop. Switching to cheapie Tektro v-brakes (and
appropriate levers), her modest hand strength was suddenly more than
adequate for effective stopping. The improvement was so drastic, that
I decided to try it on one of my own bikes. I don't know why I waited
so long, but I'm now of the opinion that my cantilever days are behind
me. Even the cheap v-brakes are comparatively amazing. Just one more
bike with cantis in my personal fleet, and that will be changing
sooner than later.

On Aug 28, 8:47 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 9:46 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery

 thill@gmail.com wrote:
  Time for Riv to go threadless!

 Let's not have that happen. I really don't care for threadless very much.

 -sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: Drop Bars vs. Non-drops

I agree entirely with Garth.  I climb and wind-ride quite effectively with Alba 
bars.  And, I do not sit bolt upright, either.  I have two bikes now fitted 
with 
Alba bars, and two others with drops. For city riding/commuting/buzz-abouts, 
I'll pull one with the Alba every time -- and I live and ride in a city renown 
for its hilly terrain (and a long, sweeping bridge).  






From: Garth garth...@gmail.com
To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Sun, August 29, 2010 6:20:34 AM
Subject: [RBW] Re: Drop Bars vs. Non-drops


Respectfully .. you are making the errant assumption that to ride
with an Alba bar(or Moustache or similiar) he/she is riding bolt
upright. What is bolt upright anyways 90 degrees? That's really
hard to do.  Your actual position on the bike depends on the TT length
and the stem used.  To be bolt upright you'd need a short TT and a
short stem, fine for flat city riding I suppose, but it must be
awkward.

Many pro mtb riders have bars equal to , and higher than saddle
height. Their body position ranges from about 40-70 degrees .  
the latter being pretty upright .  The key is they have sufficiently
long top tubes, and they use their levers(arms) to vary their position
as needed.  There is no difference in flat, upright or drop bars when
it comes to body angle while riding .. it depends on setting up
the bars you use to fit the particular rider.

For me the idea that you need to be hunched over to ride effectively
has been busted. It may be fine and necessary  for racing, but even
racers don't ride like this for long periods, and they are paid to go
fast.

My local riding is very hilly, with grades up to 19%.  Like I said
earlier, the bar makes no difference uphill, I climb the same as I did
with drops. Downhill though, I like the Alba better. I used to be all
about getting the max speed I could. I never noticed my surrounds much
though in my futile quest for speed. with the Alba bar, I can go full
tuck if I want to and go fast  but I prefer to sit up some so I
can take in the whole scenic picture. I can't tell you how many times,
in my quest for speed . I overlook where I'm at. My mind is so
concerned with getting there I'm deaf, dumb and blind to where I'm
at. That sucks really. Life is short . .  . . so short.


Hill climbing and riding into headwinds is mostly in the head. This is
very revealing . Is the hill/wind an obstacle or an Allie ? It doesn't
matter your position, or your physical ability . .. .  you are where
you are, you do the best you can, and you benefit from the experience,
period.   All the thoughts of I coulda woulda shoulda . and the
yeah, but ..  are just bologna.



On Aug 28, 9:37 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:

 I do think it's safe to say a bolt upright position is very poor for
 climbing, because you cannot use several important muscle groups
 effectively.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Drop Bars vs. Non-drops

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 7:20 AM, Garth garth...@gmail.com wrote:
For me the idea that you need to be hunched over to ride effectively
has been busted. It may be fine and necessary  for racing, but even
racers don't ride like this for long periods, and they are paid to go
fast.

Are you saying that riding in the hooks on low bars is bunched up?
If so, you are doing what you criticize the other for: making
unwarranted assumptions and playing straw man (that's two fallacies).
A low bar, butt back position can be *very* comfortable, at least for
some people: I often get into the hooks, bars 2 below saddle, because
it is a comfortable change from the hoods.

My local riding is very hilly, with grades up to 19%.  Like I said
earlier, the bar makes no difference uphill, I climb the same as I did
with drops. Downhill though, I like the Alba better. I used to be all
about getting the max speed I could. I never noticed my surrounds much
though in my futile quest for speed. with the Alba bar, I can go full
tuck if I want to and go fast  but I prefer to sit up some so I
can take in the whole scenic picture. I can't tell you how many times,
in my quest for speed . I overlook where I'm at. My mind is so
concerned with getting there I'm deaf, dumb and blind to where I'm
at. That sucks really. Life is short . .  . . so short.

Again, assumptions: some people get *pleasure* out of pushing
themselves. Don't *assume* everyone is really like you.


Hill climbing and riding into headwinds is mostly in the head.

Bullshit. Come to Albuquerque, expecially in the spring, and try
pushing a 70 or 75 gear into a 30 mph headwind.

Try pushing the same gears up a 7 mile climb from 4900 to 6500 feet.

This is
very revealing . Is the hill/wind an obstacle or an Allie

That's ally.

? It doesn't
matter your position, or your physical ability . .. .  you are where
you are, you do the best you can, and you benefit from the experience,

This is a truism.

period.   All the thoughts of I coulda woulda shoulda . and the
yeah, but ..  are just bologna.

And this refers to what?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Drop Bars vs. Non-drops

A-bars were fine for climbing. I found the lack of leverage while holding
the brakes during descents to be fatiguing.

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 6:20 AM, Garth garth...@gmail.com wrote:

Respectfully .. you are making the errant assumption that to ride
with an Alba bar(or Moustache or similiar) he/she is riding bolt
upright. What is bolt upright anyways 90 degrees? That's really
hard to do. Your actual position on the bike depends on the TT length
and the stem used. To be bolt upright you'd need a short TT and a
short stem, fine for flat city riding I suppose, but it must be
awkward.

Many pro mtb riders have bars equal to , and higher than saddle
height. Their body position ranges from about 40-70 degrees .
the latter being pretty upright . The key is they have sufficiently
long top tubes, and they use their levers(arms) to vary their position
as needed. There is no difference in flat, upright or drop bars when
it comes to body angle while riding .. it depends on setting up
the bars you use to fit the particular rider.

For me the idea that you need to be hunched over to ride effectively
has been busted. It may be fine and necessary for racing, but even
racers don't ride like this for long periods, and they are paid to go
fast.

My local riding is very hilly, with grades up to 19%. Like I said
earlier, the bar makes no difference uphill, I climb the same as I did
with drops. Downhill though, I like the Alba better. I used to be all
about getting the max speed I could. I never noticed my surrounds much
though in my futile quest for speed. with the Alba bar, I can go full
tuck if I want to and go fast but I prefer to sit up some so I
can take in the whole scenic picture. I can't tell you how many times,
in my quest for speed . I overlook where I'm at. My mind is so
concerned with getting there I'm deaf, dumb and blind to where I'm
at. That sucks really. Life is short . . . . so short.

Hill climbing and riding into headwinds is mostly in the head. This is
very revealing . Is the hill/wind an obstacle or an Allie ? It doesn't
matter your position, or your physical ability . .. . you are where
you are, you do the best you can, and you benefit from the experience,
period. All the thoughts of I coulda woulda shoulda . and the
yeah, but .. are just bologna.

On Aug 28, 9:37 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:

I do think it's safe to say a bolt upright position is very poor for
climbing, because you cannot use several important muscle groups
effectively.

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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Drop Bars vs. Non-drops

Good ol' Pineapple Bob. I could get aero on M bars too, but set low
and forward, not high and rearward. But they hurt my hands no matter
how placed -- tried them half a dozen times over the years on and off
road. Like the concept but don't like the feel, alas.

I used to use North Road type bars, but flipped and angled; also aero
but, again, hurt my hands.

You can get aero on just about any bar; even one the bar of a Flying
Pigeon with stem and bar cast in one piece and no extension (rod
brakes)  and short tt, but you will be in a rather awkard position on
this last wrt weight distribution, and *certainly* hunched over! (I
rode a Hero for several years as a boy.)

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 7:25 AM, Bruce fullylug...@yahoo.com wrote:
 I ride M-bars like this guy, maybe I lean a little further forward:
 http://sheldonbrown.com/bridgestone/images/xo1-rba-8-91.jpg
 I can just about lay flat on them when descending and find it a surprisingly
 aero position, as well as one that lets me rest. The M bars are on the bike
 I use the most for hill training rides.
 Bruce
 
 From: Garth garth...@gmail.com
 To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Sun, August 29, 2010 8:20:34 AM
 Subject: [RBW] Re: Drop Bars vs. Non-drops


 Respectfully .. you are making the errant assumption that to ride
 with an Alba bar(or Moustache or similiar) he/she is riding bolt
 upright.

 --
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 RBW Owners Bunch group.
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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: midge, junebug, woodchipper, etc

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 3:41 AM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
thill@gmail.com wrote:
 Seth makes a good point, in that many Riv customers and aspiring Riv
 customers prefer the classic quill aesthetic, and maybe Grant has
 decided that filling this niche is an important part of the RBW
 business model. But threadless steerers have been mainstream long
 enough now, that even retro-grouches can appreciate that it is a
 proven design. I'm not going to get into my long list of reasons to
 favor 9/8 threadless, but in the context of this discussion, one key
 point has surfaced: there are a lot of interesting handlebars that
 can't be used with available quill stems. If a bar has a 31.8 clamp
 area, and many newer bars are only available in 31.8, there is no
 quill stem that will accommodate it. If the bar is not a single
 continuous bend - think h-bar - then a removable face plate is needed,
 again, not generally available in a quill stem. If versatility is a
 hallmark of the RBW brand, then the quill stem runs counter to that
 ideal, given the current huge variety of threadless stems and
 handlebars that cannot be used on Rivendell frames without some kind
 of kludgy adapter.


If you're making a point about versatility then threadless limits
moving the height of the bars around trivially. If you want to have
more versatility then you
have a threaded-threadless adapter made that has the same rise as
nitto technomic. Then you can move the bars up and down as much or as
little as you'd like
AND you can put whatever stem you want on it. It also has the virtue
of no matter what you do to your handlebars, you don't have to  reset
your headset in the process.

I've used the threaded-threadless adapters and they do not feel even
slightly kludgy to me. No more so than 3 piece cranks, at the very
least, b/c you have a post and then a
separate piece that fits around that post and is bolted tight.

I've never seen a bike where I set the height of the bars once and I
didn't move it around to get it right - if only by a cm or so. Doing
that on threadless is a giant pain in the ass, doing it on threaded is
trivial.

I don't think of myself as a retrogrouch at all and I don't think I've
ever considered threadless to be 'unproven' or anything else like
that. I do, however, think that threadless is unnecessarily limiting
and there is no way to work around that limitation.

I think the limitations of threaded can be worked around by some
fairly simple part additions.

That, to me, speaks to the elegance of the design.

-sv

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Re: [RBW] Check 'dem Chains Folks

I want a Pugsley or Mukluk. With Rohloff, disks.

How does a P do in deep (3, say 4-5) fine, dry sand?


On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 2:41 AM, S.Cutshall clotht...@gmail.com wrote:
 Out on a rather long Pug ride today.  Climbing a mother-steep hill,
 about 12 miles from home, out of the saddle  pushing hard, SMACK.
 Chain snapped 5 links away from the master-link.

 Ribs directly into handlebars, pubic bone directly into toptube...
 ouch.

 Slow, limping, walk home.

 Check your chain before it checks you.

 Just thought I'd share my day...

 -Scott

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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: midge, junebug, woodchipper, etc

I like threadless. They're easy to set up (the whole point behind them).
Especially the open faced stems. They are kinda' useless with a short/cut
steerer though. The big problem is the ever-changing size standard. Soon
there will be a new beefy/stronger/stiffer/lighter size that
Trek/Specialized/Giant comes out with for the steerer (1-1/2, 2, 2-1/2)
and then all the 1-1/8 stems will go the way of the 1 standard. Try
getting 1 threadless stem BTW. It's already happening with that stupid
31.8mm clamp size. The neat new bars are that size as shown by the new bars
Mike likes. Staying with 1 quills, you know that the size is already
outdated by two decades.

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 6:34 AM, Ray Shine r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

Yes, I agree with Jim. If versatillity is a hallmark of the Riv brand,
then threadless is quite an appropriate design consideration, or at least an
option.

--
*From:* Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com
*To:* RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
*Sent:* Sun, August 29, 2010 12:41:48 AM
*Subject:* [RBW] Re: WTB: midge, junebug, woodchipper, etc

Seth makes a good point, in that many Riv customers and aspiring Riv
customers prefer the classic quill aesthetic, and maybe Grant has
decided that filling this niche is an important part of the RBW
business model. But threadless steerers have been mainstream long
enough now, that even retro-grouches can appreciate that it is a
proven design. I'm not going to get into my long list of reasons to
favor 9/8 threadless, but in the context of this discussion, one key
point has surfaced: there are a lot of interesting handlebars that
can't be used with available quill stems. If a bar has a 31.8 clamp
area, and many newer bars are only available in 31.8, there is no
quill stem that will accommodate it. If the bar is not a single
continuous bend - think h-bar - then a removable face plate is needed,
again, not generally available in a quill stem. If versatility is a
hallmark of the RBW brand, then the quill stem runs counter to that
ideal, given the current huge variety of threadless stems and
handlebars that cannot be used on Rivendell frames without some kind
of kludgy adapter.

Anyway, I just went for my first ride of any distance with Woodchipper
bars on my Post-Riv Curt Goodrich A/R. I ran the Shimano bar-end
shifters up top on thumbie mounts (one Paul, one IRD, in the interest
of science). I like the bar quite a bit, but may screw around with the
angle a little (very little). And, since I was changing things around,
I replaced the Paul Cantis with Tektro v-brakes. I once was of the
opinion that the Paul cantis had great stopping power, and they do,
for cantis, but a couple times this evening, I was pleasantly
surprised by the massive increase in braking power from the v-brakes.
This swap was inspired by a LHT I just set up for my wife a couple
months ago. With cantis, she lacked the hand strength to bring the
bike to a quick stop. Switching to cheapie Tektro v-brakes (and
appropriate levers), her modest hand strength was suddenly more than
adequate for effective stopping. The improvement was so drastic, that
I decided to try it on one of my own bikes. I don't know why I waited
so long, but I'm now of the opinion that my cantilever days are behind
me. Even the cheap v-brakes are comparatively amazing. Just one more
bike with cantis in my personal fleet, and that will be changing
sooner than later.

On Aug 28, 8:47 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 9:46 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery

thill@gmail.com wrote:
Time for Riv to go threadless!

Let's not have that happen. I really don't care for threadless very much.

-sv

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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

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[RBW] Re: Drop Bars vs. Non-drops



On Aug 29, 9:59 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 Are you saying that riding in the hooks on low bars is bunched up?
 If so, you are doing what you criticize the other for: making
 unwarranted assumptions and playing straw man (that's two fallacies).
 A low bar, butt back position can be *very* comfortable, at least for
 some people: I often get into the hooks, bars 2 below saddle, because
 it is a comfortable change from the hoods.

--I'm saying riding in the drops isn't needed to ride effectively.


 Again, assumptions: some people get *pleasure* out of pushing
 themselves. Don't *assume* everyone is really like you.

--There's room for everyone and everyone rides differently. No ... no
one is like me. or like you, or like anyone else. The point is for
each of us to think for ourselves and make up our own minds as to how
we want to ride.  I gave an example.



 Hill climbing and riding into headwinds is mostly in the head.

 Bullshit. Come to Albuquerque, expecially in the spring, and try
 pushing a 70 or 75 gear into a 30 mph headwind.

 Try pushing the same gears up a 7 mile climb from 4900 to 6500 feet.

--You missed the point Patrick. riding into the wind and climbing
is still **just riding**. The idea that you need to be more aero, or
faster or struggle creates more inner tension and in turn, you ride
worse.  If one wants to ride a 75 gear up such a climb, one would
*assume* you know what you're getting into.

   All the thoughts of I coulda woulda shoulda . and the
 yeah, but ..  are just bologna.

 And this refers to what?

--It refers to this example :  Yeah  I just finished my ride,
*but* I shoulda woulda coulda rode faster, stronger, higher or
whatever else the imagination can think of.

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[RBW] Re: WTB: midge, junebug, woodchipper, etc

2010-08-29 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery

Seth: I think you're making far too much of the difficulty of
adjusting bar height on threadless steerers. I have seen this rumor
perpetuated again and again, but it simply isn't true, in my
experience. On all my threadless bikes, I have enough steerer that I
can move the bars a cm or even an inch or so either way in a matter of
a minute, simply by loosening a couple bolts and moving a spacer from
below to above the stem, or vice versa. Resetting the headset is
trivial with any sealed bearing headset (and most threadless headsets
are sealed bearing, unlike most currently available threaded
units...). Just snug down the top cap, then tighten the stem bolts,
and that's it. It's all done with a 5mm allen, no headset spanners
required. There is no giant pain in the ass involved, unless, of
course, your steerer is far shorter than it should be. In that worst-
case scenario, there are threadless steerer extenders that are similar
in function to the quill adapters you've described. As a matter of
fact, one of the many reasons driving the widespread move to
threadless is that it makes it MUCH easier for bike shop employees to
fit a new bike to a buyer by swapping stems without monkeying around
with the tape, levers, shifters, etc.

On the other hand, there are obviously people who disagree with me, so
I suppose it's nice that Riv is still providing the threaded option.
Personally, if I'm shopping for a bike/frame, a threaded steerer
system is a drawback. It's not enough to make me outright reject an
option that otherwise has good features/design/aesthetics, but all
else being equal...


On Aug 29, 9:18 am, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 3:41 AM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery



 thill@gmail.com wrote:
  Seth makes a good point, in that many Riv customers and aspiring Riv
  customers prefer the classic quill aesthetic, and maybe Grant has
  decided that filling this niche is an important part of the RBW
  business model. But threadless steerers have been mainstream long
  enough now, that even retro-grouches can appreciate that it is a
  proven design. I'm not going to get into my long list of reasons to
  favor 9/8 threadless, but in the context of this discussion, one key
  point has surfaced: there are a lot of interesting handlebars that
  can't be used with available quill stems. If a bar has a 31.8 clamp
  area, and many newer bars are only available in 31.8, there is no
  quill stem that will accommodate it. If the bar is not a single
  continuous bend - think h-bar - then a removable face plate is needed,
  again, not generally available in a quill stem. If versatility is a
  hallmark of the RBW brand, then the quill stem runs counter to that
  ideal, given the current huge variety of threadless stems and
  handlebars that cannot be used on Rivendell frames without some kind
  of kludgy adapter.

 If you're making a point about versatility then threadless limits
 moving the height of the bars around trivially. If you want to have
 more versatility then you
 have a threaded-threadless adapter made that has the same rise as
 nitto technomic. Then you can move the bars up and down as much or as
 little as you'd like
 AND you can put whatever stem you want on it. It also has the virtue
 of no matter what you do to your handlebars, you don't have to  reset
 your headset in the process.

 I've used the threaded-threadless adapters and they do not feel even
 slightly kludgy to me. No more so than 3 piece cranks, at the very
 least, b/c you have a post and then a
 separate piece that fits around that post and is bolted tight.

 I've never seen a bike where I set the height of the bars once and I
 didn't move it around to get it right - if only by a cm or so. Doing
 that on threadless is a giant pain in the ass, doing it on threaded is
 trivial.

 I don't think of myself as a retrogrouch at all and I don't think I've
 ever considered threadless to be 'unproven' or anything else like
 that. I do, however, think that threadless is unnecessarily limiting
 and there is no way to work around that limitation.

 I think the limitations of threaded can be worked around by some
 fairly simple part additions.

 That, to me, speaks to the elegance of the design.

 -sv

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[RBW] Re: Metric century is in the can!

2010-08-29 Thread Beth H

Nicely done! Congrats!

Through several years of trial and error I have learned that I will
never be a randoneuse, and I will never complete a 200k brevet. My
body is just not set up that way, and attempting that long a distance
mostly non-stop will probably hurt me.
But I've found that a metric is just about a perfect distance: long
enough to be goal-worthy, short enough not do any lasting damage, and
I get home by dinner time. Plus, you not so knackered out that you
miss the scenery.

Great pix. Looks like a wonderful ride! --beth

On Aug 28, 6:48 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
 Success!  A GREAT ride with no IT band pain!  

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[RBW] Re: Metric century is in the can!

2010-08-29 Thread RoadieRyan

Congrats on the Metric!  I did my summer Metric last month and had a
blast, not sure I am ready for the ol' Imperial yet but the 100km was
a good distance-a stretch but not a slog.  Thanks for sharing the
photos and nice looking cap btw ;-)

Ryan

On Aug 28, 6:48 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
 Success!  A GREAT ride with no IT band pain!  I've been stretching, taking
 anti-inflammatories, moved exclusively to cleats (SPuDs) pushed out as wide
 as possible, and lowered the saddles a touch.  Some combination of the above
 lets me ride longer distances, at least 63 miles
 worth!http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4935845053/in/datetaken/
 I was hoping to do a garage to the beach ride with a pick up, but instead
 drove half way and then did an out and back.  Strong headwinds gave me a 13
 mph average going downhill to the ocean, and then propelled me to an 18 mph
 average back up!  What's amazing in my mind is how good I felt through the
 ride.  A little bit of neck pain around 40 miles.  Stopping and stretching
 real good fixed that right up.  I'm kinda' thinking of trying to do an
 Imperial century next weekend, spouse willing.  A TON of cyclists out
 today.  Just amazing and

 Visual documentation 
 here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/archives/date-taken/2010/08...

 --
 Cheers,
 David
 Redlands, CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Metric century is in the can!

I know, scary isn't it. Don't turn me in

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 8:04 AM, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.comwrote:

only two bikes I think there is a law against that! ( now that I
have 7 temporarily)

anyway , glad your IT issue is behind you. Injuries that prevent
riding are not fun!

~Mike~

On Aug 28, 9:32 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
I love that bike! Light and zippy, but that may be the Open Pro 28h
wheels
and 30mm (labeled 35) Paselas. I want to get a light wheelset for my AR
and
see if I can replicate that (135 vs 130 spacing so can't just put those
on
it). If so, I'd probably sell the road and get down to one Rivendell + a
Monkey.

On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 9:07 PM, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
Were you on your Rivendell road bike? How'd the bike feel? What tires
were you rolling?

You're right about the distance, the metric century is a really nice
distance. In fact, you've inspired me to maybe do a ride that long
this Monday. I was going to go bike camping but I don't think it'll
work out for this week but I can still ride each of my days off.

--mike

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Redlands, CA- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

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Redlands, CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Metric century is in the can!

Thanks Beth! The mileage (kilometerage??) really is a good one. I should
have re-set my computadora to kilometers! I may be able to do a full 200k
someday, but right now this is good. Time on bike, fatigue, accomplishments
enjoyment are all maximized (or minimized) to just the right point. Wish
there was more of a rando scene here in SoCal could support some
populaires. In fact, having a group dedicated to just that length would be
a cool idea. The Metrics or Les Metrics I suppose.

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 8:59 AM, Beth H periwinkle...@yahoo.com wrote:

Nicely done! Congrats!

Through several years of trial and error I have learned that I will
never be a randoneuse, and I will never complete a 200k brevet. My
body is just not set up that way, and attempting that long a distance
mostly non-stop will probably hurt me.
But I've found that a metric is just about a perfect distance: long
enough to be goal-worthy, short enough not do any lasting damage, and
I get home by dinner time. Plus, you not so knackered out that you
miss the scenery.

Great pix. Looks like a wonderful ride! --beth

On Aug 28, 6:48 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
Success! A GREAT ride with no IT band pain!

--
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Metric century is in the can!

The thoughts on the mileage seem to be pretty universal from what I've
read. Everybody kinda' likes that distance.
I think it's the hat that helped me through it all!

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 9:05 AM, RoadieRyan rya...@hotmail.com wrote:

Congrats on the Metric! I did my summer Metric last month and had a
blast, not sure I am ready for the ol' Imperial yet but the 100km was
a good distance-a stretch but not a slog. Thanks for sharing the
photos and nice looking cap btw ;-)

Ryan

On Aug 28, 6:48 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
Success! A GREAT ride with no IT band pain! I've been stretching,
taking
anti-inflammatories, moved exclusively to cleats (SPuDs) pushed out as
wide
as possible, and lowered the saddles a touch. Some combination of the
above
lets me ride longer distances, at least 63 miles
worth!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4935845053/in/datetaken/
I was hoping to do a garage to the beach ride with a pick up, but instead
drove half way and then did an out and back. Strong headwinds gave me a
13
mph average going downhill to the ocean, and then propelled me to an 18
mph
average back up! What's amazing in my mind is how good I felt through
the
ride. A little bit of neck pain around 40 miles. Stopping and
stretching
real good fixed that right up. I'm kinda' thinking of trying to do an
Imperial century next weekend, spouse willing. A TON of cyclists out
today. Just amazing and

Visual documentation here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/archives/date-taken/2010/08...

--
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

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[RBW] Re: Check 'dem Chains Folks

2010-08-29 Thread charlie

Precisely why I carry a chain tool (plus some extra links) always and
never depend on those goofy quickee links. I predict your repair kit
will evolve soon. Thankfully you suffered no permanent
damageright? By the way. the past article in the Reader
regarding your lifestyle change was a true inspiration to me
personally.

On Aug 29, 1:41 am, S.Cutshall clotht...@gmail.com wrote:
 Out on a rather long Pug ride today.  Climbing a mother-steep hill,
 about 12 miles from home, out of the saddle  pushing hard, SMACK.
 Chain snapped 5 links away from the master-link.

 Ribs directly into handlebars, pubic bone directly into toptube...
 ouch.

 Slow, limping, walk home.

 Check your chain before it checks you.

 Just thought I'd share my day...

 -Scott

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[RBW] 56cm Saluki w/ SS on Bay Area CL

Not mine, no connection, etc.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bik/1921639965.html



-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

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[RBW] Re: Hunqapillar or Bombadil for the trails?

Rene:

I SURE WILL   Rest assured, your Bombadil found a good home.
THANK YOU

BB

On Aug 28, 3:00 pm, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:
 BB

 Im so glad my ex-Bombadil got a new home and will fit you and serve you well. 
 It is a wonderful bike and I'm sure you'll have some amazing adventures 
 together.

 Let me know how you set it up and post pictures!

 René

 Sent from my iPhone 4

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[RBW] WTB Nitto Dirt Drop Stem

2010-08-29 Thread geosat

Looking for someone who is selling a Nitto Dirt stem! Please contact
me if you can help.
geosat1 at gmail dot com

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[RBW] Rear Hub Advice

For my Bombadil, I plan to lace up a set of wheels with a derailleured
rear and dynamo front hub.  I'd appreciate advice, particularly on my
rear hub choice.

Planned setup:

Rims - 36-hole Velocity Dyad
Front hub - Schmidt SON 28 or Shimano dh-3n80 (which I realize I may
need to order from Europe for a 36-hole version)
Rear hub - Phil Wood Freewheel Touring hub, 135mm width

Here's where I could use some advice.  I'd prefer an 8-speed over a 9-
speed, and would prefer the freewheel hub vs the cassette version (to
reduce dish), but am concerned about availability of decent 8-speed
freewheels.  Has anyone used this setup?  I may also consider a 7-
speed freewheel, since I believe the cog spacing between the 7 and 8
are the same, and I use an 8-speed bar-end shifter.  I currently own a
Phil Wood 9-speed cassette disc hub on my Fargo, which is awesome.
I'm thinking I can build a stronger wheel with the freewheel touring
hub.

Advice is much-appreciated... Thanks.
BB

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[RBW] Re: Hunqa and SO update on Riv site!

According to my conversation with RBW, the Bombadil with the diagonal
tubes (full length to the dropouts) will carry a slight price increase
to offset the tubing and funky lugwork (can't wait to see that).  The
double TT version of the Bomba is apparently no longer being made
(bummer, I really like that).


On Aug 28, 9:09 pm, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Aug 28, 4:40 pm, Jim M. mather...@gmail.com wrote: Wait 'til you see 
 the new Bombadil. Breezer redux.

 Really? I wonder if the price will go up.

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[RBW] Re: Check 'dem Chains Folks

Scott:

Well that stinks... Park Tools makes an awesome folding chain tool
that fits in your pocket or tool pouch... I always carry one of these
along with a few extra chain links and a quick-link. I can't tell you
how many times this has happened to me, where fortunately I had the
tool and few extra links to fix on the spot... Breaking a chain sucks,
and is virtually unavoidable... walking home sucks even more.

Peace,
BB

On Aug 29, 4:41 am, S.Cutshall clotht...@gmail.com wrote:
 Out on a rather long Pug ride today.  Climbing a mother-steep hill,
 about 12 miles from home, out of the saddle  pushing hard, SMACK.
 Chain snapped 5 links away from the master-link.

 Ribs directly into handlebars, pubic bone directly into toptube...
 ouch.

 Slow, limping, walk home.

 Check your chain before it checks you.

 Just thought I'd share my day...

 -Scott

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[RBW] Re: Hunqapillar or Bombadil for the trails?

Ray:

I run the 29er Big Apples in the 2.35 (60mm) width on the Fargo, which
fit just fine, even with Planet Bike Cascadia fenders... They are over-
the-top awesome tires!  I can pump these up to 60 PSI and they FLY
over the road.. Typically, though I keep them at around 32-35 PSI and
ride on mixed terrain.  I don't know of bigger (or better) tires.

Cheers,
BB

On Aug 28, 10:00 am, Ray Shine r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
 Welcome!  Enjoy the Bomb!  Just a wee bit OT, but may I ask what size tires 
 you
 have on the Fargo?  What is max size a Fargo will accommodate?

 Again, Welcome to the group.  Great bunch of resourceful folks, here.

 
 From: Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com
 To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Fri, August 27, 2010 8:41:36 AM
 Subject: [RBW] Re: Hunqapillar or Bombadil for the trails?

 New to RBW Owners... Woo hoo!!

 After working with Keven at RBW, seeking an answer to the tricky
 which Riv is right for me question, I opted for a Bombadil 60.  I
 originally thought I had my mind made up with an AHH (mainly for light
 loaded on/off road travel), but since I'm 6'1, 230 lbs, Keven
 (wisely) suggested something a bit stouter might ultimately feel more
 reassuring for my style of riding, especially if I couldn't resist the
 urge to take it offroad and/or load up with heavier stuff.  (I already
 own a nice Niner MCR 29er as my primary off-road steed, so I really
 envision using my Riv for back road touring, but still with plenty of
 dirt-road and off-road capability where a mountain bike might be
 overkill.  We talked about a double TT Hilsen (which sounded just OK
 to me... and at some point why not just go with an Atlantis or
 Bombadil? Maybe the Hilsen isn't the right one for me... DAMMIT I
 thought I had it figured out!!!).. To get an Atlantis in my size would
 require a non-standard 64cm... did I want to wait and pay a little
 extra?  (Dammit again, I thought I had it figured out... but the wait
 and extra cost would probably be worth it in my mind. (But then I
 discovered one current Atlantis owner, who is 6'5/245 talking about
 having Riv possibly add an extra TT on his Atlantis)...

 Jeez, I thought... can't a big guy like me get a bike that can do all
 these things in a size that DOESN'T require a second TT?  Well that
 all became a moot point when Keven showed me a lightly used Bombadil
 frame in my size they JUST received on a trade-in, and that was all I
 needed to see... I did what any other reasonable future RBW Owner
 would do... I bought it.

 Now I personally plan to set this up as a kind of do-all touring bike,
 and I am taking inspiration from the previous owner (Rene, thank
 you!), and plan to try out several configurations.  Admittedly I have
 a Salsa Fargo already nicely performing commuting, light off-road and
 commuting duty, but even as awesome as the Fargo is (and I wouldn't
 hesitate to declare the Fargo an act of sheer brilliance on the part
 of Salsa), there is NOTHING on this planet quite like the Bombadil...
 we all know that.  I'm afraid my Fargo may need to find a new owner
 soon (sad as that sounds)... The Bombadil will become my main ride
 (for paved and back road/light trail riding, commuting, coffee shop
 runs, etc.), and the Niner will remain my true mountain bike (capable
 of pretty much anything off-road).

 I appreciate all the great dialogue onb this forum about seeking and
 achieving the best setup.  As a former Kogswell P/R owner and KOG
 member (which I miss), it's great to once again tap into such great
 thinkers as there are here in this group.

 Peace,
 BB

 On Aug 27, 10:15 am, RJM rjme...@gmail.com wrote:

  The AHH and the Bombadil or a Hunqapillar might be the solution,
  sticking with the Bombadil would keep me strapped to 650 wheels which
  isn't a terrible thing.  I'm not sure what route I am going to go with
  yet, I will probably wind up ordering the first bike in a month or
  two, so I have some time.

  Right now I am riding a Trek 7.5 FX so I have a rideable bike for
  rails to trails type stuff and the road, but no singletrack capable
  bike.  I would like to replace the FX with a Rivendell though.  I have
  some thinking to do though, but I think the first one will probably be
  a trail worthy bike.

  On Aug 26, 6:03 pm, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:

   To the OP, let us know what you decide. It doesn't sound like you have
   any big tours planned so maybe consider getting a SH (single TT
   Taiwanese model) or an AHH, ride it for a while and make your decision
   about a touring bike from there.

   --mike

   On Aug 26, 1:03 pm, cyclotour...@gmail.com cyclotour...@gmail.com
   wrote:

This is a great option!  An AHH and a Bomb would make a great 1-2
punch, with less duplication than a Bomb/Atlantis combo. Whichever two
you end up with, having a single wheel size is pretty nice.

On Aug 26, 7:34 am, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:- Hide

Re: [RBW] Re: Drop Bars vs. Non-drops

2010-08-29 Thread Fai Mao

I ride a very wide Surly 1X1 Flat bar with bar ends and a Cinelli Spinachi
aero on my Sam. I just realized several years ago that I almost never used
the drops. I spent better than 90% of my time on the brake hoods. The
argument for more hand positions is sort of moot if that is the case. I've
though about going back to drops, Randonner bars actually, but haven't
because I like my thumbshifters.

On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 1:45 AM, RJM rjme...@gmail.com wrote:

I actually would rather have albatross, flat bar/bar end combo or a
mustache than drop bars. I don't like using brifters and find most
drop bars too skinny, plus I don't like to ride in the drops so the
bars aren't for me. The wider the better for me.

I can't say I have ever wanted drop bars and not had them.

On Aug 27, 5:43 am, kevin lindsey lindsey.ke...@gmail.com wrote:
Greetings.
I'm doing a rebuild and am considering switching from drop bars to
something like the albatross or the dove bars, mostly for aesthetic
reasons. I use the bike (a 1973 Schwinn World Voyageur, not a
Rivendell) for longish fun rides, errands, and general purpose
riding. Question I have for the group is whether there are ever times
when you wished you had drop bars instead of non-drops. In other
words, are there clear advantages of one over the other?
I like drops, but find that I almost never move my hands from the
upper part of the bar, making me wonder whether I'd miss them very
much if I switched.
Thanks,
Kevin

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The Blogger who sometimes responds to comments

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[RBW] 650B Tires for Sale

Pacenti Neo-Moto 2.3 tires... Barely used on a 650B experiment, I rode
these 2-3 times, then they've been sitting in my garage for the past 2
years.  $40 for the pair.
Schwalbe 650B Fatties (HS315)... same... barely ridden (maybe a dozen
times) in great shape.  $20 for the pair

Special - $50 for BOTH sets.  You pay shipping (which from NJ should
be $10-$15)

These won't last.. priced to MOVE!!!

Contact me if interested.

Bobby Birmingham
montclairbob...@gmail.com
(908) 303-6887
BB

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Re: [RBW] Re: Drop Bars vs. Non-drops

That's the argument for raising the bars. Get them up high enough so that
the drops are closer to the seat height and more usable. Looks kinda' odd,
but leads to happy necks!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4737478946/in/set-72157602592825848/

On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 8:57 AM, Fai Mao i.am.fai@gmail.com wrote:

On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 1:45 AM, RJM rjme...@gmail.com wrote:

I can't say I have ever wanted drop bars and not had them.

--
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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: midge, junebug, woodchipper, etc

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 11:55 AM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
thill@gmail.com wrote:
 Seth: I think you're making far too much of the difficulty of
 adjusting bar height on threadless steerers. I have seen this rumor
 perpetuated again and again, but it simply isn't true, in my
 experience. On all my threadless bikes, I have enough steerer that I
 can move the bars a cm or even an inch or so either way in a matter of
 a minute, simply by loosening a couple bolts and moving a spacer from
 below to above the stem, or vice versa. Resetting the headset is
 trivial with any sealed bearing headset (and most threadless headsets
 are sealed bearing, unlike most currently available threaded
 units...). Just snug down the top cap, then tighten the stem bolts,
 and that's it. It's all done with a 5mm allen, no headset spanners
 required. There is no giant pain in the ass involved, unless, of
 course, your steerer is far shorter than it should be. In that worst-
 case scenario, there are threadless steerer extenders that are similar
 in function to the quill adapters you've described. As a matter of
 fact, one of the many reasons driving the widespread move to
 threadless is that it makes it MUCH easier for bike shop employees to
 fit a new bike to a buyer by swapping stems without monkeying around
 with the tape, levers, shifters, etc.


Jim,
 I have a burley tandem with a threadless headset/stem and having to
move it around to get the bars up was a giant pain in the ass.

I had a bianchi castro valley, same thing, In general, I've found that
since getting a rivendell that headset adjustment and maintenance,
including raising and lowering the bars, give me much less heartburn.

I'm not pulling the idea of not like threadless from a place of zero
experience with them. I'm coming from my own personal experience and
watching  what happens with normal use of a bike for me.

I have no doubt that you have vastly more experience from the
perspective of a bike shop owner and mechanic. Furthermore, I have no
doubt that threadless is easier for a bike shop to deal with. HOWEVER,
I do not buy a bike for the bike mechanic at the bike shop. I do not
buy anything b/c it is easier for the mechanics to work on it. I buy
it b/c it is easier for ME to use.

Remember, the mechanics can love whatever technology they will love,
but if it just continues to annoy customers then that's not good at
all.

I speak to that from well over a decade in computing - a field where
ignoring what is actually USEFUL to the customer in exchange for what
is easier for the developer has been promoted to HIGH ART.

-sv

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[RBW] Re: Rear Hub Advice

2010-08-29 Thread rperks

go with the 7sp and don't look back - rob

On Aug 29, 6:25 am, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com
wrote:
 For my Bombadil, I plan to lace up a set of wheels with a derailleured
 rear and dynamo front hub.  I'd appreciate advice, particularly on my
 rear hub choice.

 Planned setup:

 Rims - 36-hole Velocity Dyad
 Front hub - Schmidt SON 28 or Shimano dh-3n80 (which I realize I may
 need to order from Europe for a 36-hole version)
 Rear hub - Phil Wood Freewheel Touring hub, 135mm width

 Here's where I could use some advice.  I'd prefer an 8-speed over a 9-
 speed, and would prefer the freewheel hub vs the cassette version (to
 reduce dish), but am concerned about availability of decent 8-speed
 freewheels.  Has anyone used this setup?  I may also consider a 7-
 speed freewheel, since I believe the cog spacing between the 7 and 8
 are the same, and I use an 8-speed bar-end shifter.  I currently own a
 Phil Wood 9-speed cassette disc hub on my Fargo, which is awesome.
 I'm thinking I can build a stronger wheel with the freewheel touring
 hub.

 Advice is much-appreciated... Thanks.
 BB

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[RBW] Re: Metric century is in the can!

2010-08-29 Thread Beth H

A Metric Club/web site is not a bad idea. I think this distance is
going to grow more popular with riders over time, as more of us
discover the joys of longer distances out in the country but don't
feel a need to go out and absolutely kill ourselves on our bikes.

I have a friend who ride Paris-Brest-Paris and is working on his third
trip next year. I'm glad for him, but as time goes by I find ride
reports from this event inspire me less and less. I've arrived at a
place where I think it is all about finding the right combination of
pleasure and challenge on the bike, erring heavily on the side of
pleasure. Metrics do it for me.

Maybe they do it for others, too; we could have a web site devoted to
ride reports and photos of America's Best Metric Centuries. Someone
else would have to set it up as that technology is beyond me; but if
they did, I'd contribute.

Beth

On Aug 29, 9:09 am, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
 Thanks Beth!  ...In fact, having a group dedicated to just that length would 
 be
 a cool idea.  The Metrics  or Les Metrics I suppose.

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[RBW] Re: Rear Hub Advice

2010-08-29 Thread Dave Craig

I believe that the relative strengths of various heavy duty/touring
custom wheelsets are vastly overrated for most riders. The reality is
that any well built 36h wheel with modern parts and good, sensible
materials will serve the majority of riders very well. Has your Fargo
wheel broken? If not, why the need for a stronger wheel? Using a
Phil or an XT hub as a base, you can have a great wheel with an 8
speed cassette if you want 8 speeds. Now, if you want to run a
freewheel with 7 or 8 speeds just because you like the idea of using a
freewheel and a Phil hub, but you can't afford the Phil cassette
version and you don't want XT, then go for it without further
justification. I'll assert again that the supposed advantage of the
dishless/freewheel wheel bit is WAAAY overstated.

Dave

On Aug 29, 11:18 am, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote:
 go with the 7sp and don't look back - rob

 On Aug 29, 6:25 am, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com
 wrote:



  For my Bombadil, I plan to lace up a set of wheels with a derailleured
  rear and dynamo front hub.  I'd appreciate advice, particularly on my
  rear hub choice.

  Planned setup:

  Rims - 36-hole Velocity Dyad
  Front hub - Schmidt SON 28 or Shimano dh-3n80 (which I realize I may
  need to order from Europe for a 36-hole version)
  Rear hub - Phil Wood Freewheel Touring hub, 135mm width

  Here's where I could use some advice.  I'd prefer an 8-speed over a 9-
  speed, and would prefer the freewheel hub vs the cassette version (to
  reduce dish), but am concerned about availability of decent 8-speed
  freewheels.  Has anyone used this setup?  I may also consider a 7-
  speed freewheel, since I believe the cog spacing between the 7 and 8
  are the same, and I use an 8-speed bar-end shifter.  I currently own a
  Phil Wood 9-speed cassette disc hub on my Fargo, which is awesome.
  I'm thinking I can build a stronger wheel with the freewheel touring
  hub.

  Advice is much-appreciated... Thanks.
  BB- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: midge, junebug, woodchipper, etc

2010-08-29 Thread Bill Connell

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 1:13 PM, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
  I have a burley tandem with a threadless headset/stem and having to
 move it around to get the bars up was a giant pain in the ass.

 I had a bianchi castro valley, same thing, In general, I've found that
 since getting a rivendell that headset adjustment and maintenance,
 including raising and lowering the bars, give me much less heartburn.

 I'm not pulling the idea of not like threadless from a place of zero
 experience with them. I'm coming from my own personal experience and
 watching  what happens with normal use of a bike for me.

 I have no doubt that you have vastly more experience from the
 perspective of a bike shop owner and mechanic. Furthermore, I have no
 doubt that threadless is easier for a bike shop to deal with. HOWEVER,
 I do not buy a bike for the bike mechanic at the bike shop. I do not
 buy anything b/c it is easier for the mechanics to work on it. I buy
 it b/c it is easier for ME to use.

 Remember, the mechanics can love whatever technology they will love,
 but if it just continues to annoy customers then that's not good at
 all.

 I speak to that from well over a decade in computing - a field where
 ignoring what is actually USEFUL to the customer in exchange for what
 is easier for the developer has been promoted to HIGH ART.

The software analogy is flawed, because the vast majority of software
users don't maintain and modify their own apps, but they certainly can
work on their own bikes. Threadless systems eliminate one required
specialized tool, and are far easier for a lay person to adjust
correctly than most threaded headsets.

I resisted threadless 9/8 steerers for a long time, but i've come
around as a fan. If you're a new rider, or riding a new style of bike
for you, the steerer should be left uncut until the fit is dialed in.
I don't think that most cyclists are going to dramatically change
their bar height over their lifetime with a bike, and tweaking things
by a cm either way once the steerer is cut is really not a big deal.
Swapping out stems for a change in reach is far easier on 9/8,
assuming you're using open-faced stems.

The only thing for me that's superior about 1 threaded is aesthetics;
I like the look of skinnier frame tubes, and that could be reason
enough to use that size on certain types of bikes. The downsides
though, are many: more limited bar choices, a real hassle to change
bars or stem, and most importantly a significantly more flexible
front-end. Steel stems greatly help with this, but there are few
options in steel quill stems nowadays (being unable to afford a Bruce
Gorden chicken neck stem). The stem on my 9/8 Crosscheck is a
1/2-lugged Nitto, and the most beautiful stem i own, so it's certainly
possible to match styles.

My next frame (whatever it is) will definitely be 9/8 threadless, and
once the fit is dialed in, it'll get a really nice stem too.

-- 
Bill Connell
St. Paul, MN

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[RBW] Re: Rear Hub Advice

Unless you are going to be super hard on the wheels, Dyad is probably
overkill.  I would go with a Synergy OC rear rim and regular front.
The reduced spoke tension in the OC rim will make for a very stable
sturdy wheel.  I have the Synergy setup on my AHH with a Schmidt
dynamo front hub and it's great.  No problems at all.

I also have a phil hubset laced to Dyads (40 spokes) on my Bombadil.
I have used both for touring, the Synergy is super strong and unless
you are going to be on rough off-road trails or something I think you
are going to be fine - even loaded with a good bit of weight.  I weigh
about 200 pounds and carried 35-45 pounds of gear on the 36 hole
Synergy set all the way down the west coast from Portland to SF with
no spoke breakage or truing problems.  In fact, I trued that wheelset
for the first time in 2 years this morning and only had to adjust
tension in 6 spokes to get it perfect.


On Aug 29, 9:25 am, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com
wrote:
 For my Bombadil, I plan to lace up a set of wheels with a derailleured
 rear and dynamo front hub.  I'd appreciate advice, particularly on my
 rear hub choice.

 Planned setup:

 Rims - 36-hole Velocity Dyad
 Front hub - Schmidt SON 28 or Shimano dh-3n80 (which I realize I may
 need to order from Europe for a 36-hole version)
 Rear hub - Phil Wood Freewheel Touring hub, 135mm width

 Here's where I could use some advice.  I'd prefer an 8-speed over a 9-
 speed, and would prefer the freewheel hub vs the cassette version (to
 reduce dish), but am concerned about availability of decent 8-speed
 freewheels.  Has anyone used this setup?  I may also consider a 7-
 speed freewheel, since I believe the cog spacing between the 7 and 8
 are the same, and I use an 8-speed bar-end shifter.  I currently own a
 Phil Wood 9-speed cassette disc hub on my Fargo, which is awesome.
 I'm thinking I can build a stronger wheel with the freewheel touring
 hub.

 Advice is much-appreciated... Thanks.
 BB

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: midge, junebug, woodchipper, etc

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 3:17 PM, Bill Connell bconn...@gmail.com wrote:
 The software analogy is flawed, because the vast majority of software
 users don't maintain and modify their own apps, but they certainly can
 work on their own bikes.

The analogy is apt here. A lot of folks on this list do work on their own bikes.

And the software I work on is open source so it is much more apparent
like bikes, to work on.

-sv

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[RBW] Rivendell Flag?

2010-08-29 Thread SFF

I was out early on my SH scouting new (closer) S24O camp locations. I
found a couple of possibilities but it would be in places that don't
allow camping - but if I arrive at dark...yes, maybe.

Anyway, I was thinking that it would be real nice to have a little
Rivendell camp flag to hang on my tent pole or off a nearby tree. I'm
thinking something like 6x8 or a little larger. It could have the
Rivendell logo on one side and the head badge of your bike on the
other - or both sides could have the head badge. Imagine how awesome
looking a little Hunqapillar camp flag would be or an Atlantis camp
flag- all blue and flapping in the wind at your camp site.

If you are a commuter with racks, baskets or bags you could find a way
to attach it to your load. It wouldn't need to flap in the wind here,
just use it like a patch or something. Or, you could hang it where you
park your bike at night - in the garage etc. If you have several
Rivendell bikes, you could string them together.

Might be a good way to get the Rivendell name out there and be a
conversation starter. I'd buy one if they were available. (Maybe this
has been done before and I'm just not up to speed.)

Joel

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[RBW] Re: Check 'dem Chains Folks

I am doing fine, just sore and bruised [about to ride the Bleriot to
get a new chain for the Pug].

No, I saw nothing obvious on the chain -but it was quite dark and with
my h-bar light didn't notice much... and no inspecting it later as I
chucked the chain into a garbage can near the place of failure- so I
can't report any defects, etc.  Chain had to be worn though... I've
put a little over 12,400 miles on the Pug since Feb. of this year [and
the chain was well-used last year].

Pug does great in the sand, Patrick... just take the tire pressure
down to 4 or 5lbs PSI and go, go, go...

-Scott

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[RBW] Re: Drop Bars vs. Non-drops


Hey David,  That looks cool ... the dirt drop stem kind of flows to
the bars. .  . . it matches well.

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Flag?

2010-08-29 Thread Marty

Riv had 'em made a while back, and couldn't sell 'em for some odd
reason. (All time worst seller as I recall) Two sizes. I bought a
couple big 'uns, the the smaller ones were made just for the reasons
you mentioned. They were nice, well made, and fun. Maybe they have a
few left waving around the store?

Marty

On Aug 29, 2:50 pm, SFF jgre...@earthlink.net wrote:
 I was out early on my SH scouting new (closer) S24O camp locations. I
 found a couple of possibilities but it would be in places that don't
 allow camping - but if I arrive at dark...yes, maybe.

 Anyway, I was thinking that it would be real nice to have a little
 Rivendell camp flag to hang on my tent pole or off a nearby tree. I'm
 thinking something like 6x8 or a little larger. It could have the
 Rivendell logo on one side and the head badge of your bike on the
 other - or both sides could have the head badge. Imagine how awesome
 looking a little Hunqapillar camp flag would be or an Atlantis camp
 flag- all blue and flapping in the wind at your camp site.

 If you are a commuter with racks, baskets or bags you could find a way
 to attach it to your load. It wouldn't need to flap in the wind here,
 just use it like a patch or something. Or, you could hang it where you
 park your bike at night - in the garage etc. If you have several
 Rivendell bikes, you could string them together.

 Might be a good way to get the Rivendell name out there and be a
 conversation starter. I'd buy one if they were available. (Maybe this
 has been done before and I'm just not up to speed.)

 Joel

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[RBW] Re: Rear Hub Advice

2010-08-29 Thread Tim McNamara



On Aug 29, 2010, at 1:51 PM, Dave Craig wrote:


I'll assert again that the supposed advantage of the
dishless/freewheel wheel bit is WAAAY overstated.


That's not my experience, being old enough to have gone from 1 cog to  
9 in all of the increments over the past 45 years.  The higher dish  
wheels fail much faster (going out of true, cracking rims).  But I am  
also 6'4 and 220 lbs, built more like a linebacker than like Lance.   
Someone who's 140 lbs would probably have a much different experience  
than me.


To the OP, I have had a 36 spoke/135 mm/7 sp rear wheel on my All- 
Rounder for 14 years.  I never had to true the rear wheel from 1996  
until I replace the worn out rim two years ago.  And I've not had to  
retrue the new wheel (same hub, same spokes, new rim).  Ultra- 
reliable.  This is the bike I use on and off-road, on gravel roads,  
for light touring and brevets, etc.


The issue with freewheels is that it's harder to find the cog ranges  
that you can find with cassettes.  There are good ones out there-  
Shimano still makes freewheels, after all, and there are other makers  
as well (IRD, for example) although many bike shops are less likely  
to stock a lot of them.  The dish is not necessarily less between  
freewheel and cassette hubs with the same number of cogs.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Drop Bars vs. Non-drops

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 9:37 AM, Garth garth...@gmail.com wrote:


 On Aug 29, 9:59 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 Are you saying that riding in the hooks on low bars is bunched up?
 If so, you are doing what you criticize the other for: making
 unwarranted assumptions and playing straw man (that's two fallacies).
 A low bar, butt back position can be *very* comfortable, at least for
 some people: I often get into the hooks, bars 2 below saddle, because
 it is a comfortable change from the hoods.

 --I'm saying riding in the drops isn't needed to ride effectively.

I'll grant that.


 Again, assumptions: some people get *pleasure* out of pushing
 themselves. Don't *assume* everyone is really like you.

 --There's room for everyone and everyone rides differently. No ... no
 one is like me. or like you, or like anyone else. The point is for
 each of us to think for ourselves and make up our own minds as to how
 we want to ride.  I gave an example.

Grant that, too.



 Hill climbing and riding into headwinds is mostly in the head.

 Bullshit. Come to Albuquerque, expecially in the spring, and try
 pushing a 70 or 75 gear into a 30 mph headwind.

 Try pushing the same gears up a 7 mile climb from 4900 to 6500 feet.

 --You missed the point Patrick. riding into the wind and climbing
 is still **just riding**. The idea that you need to be more aero, or
 faster or struggle creates more inner tension and in turn, you ride
 worse.  If one wants to ride a 75 gear up such a climb, one would
 *assume* you know what you're getting into.

Believe me, a hooks position is far, far easier against a headwind
than more upright.


   All the thoughts of I coulda woulda shoulda . and the
 yeah, but ..  are just bologna.

 And this refers to what?

 --It refers to this example :  Yeah  I just finished my ride,
 *but* I shoulda woulda coulda rode faster, stronger, higher or
 whatever else the imagination can think of.

Again, some people enjoy pushing themselves and set themselves speed
goals. And they can say, shoulda etc. Not baloney for them!


So, I gather that you are saying, in sum, that everyone has his own
preferred set of variables; that is certainly true of experienced
riders.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Check 'dem Chains Folks

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 6:47 AM, Montclair BobbyB
montclairbob...@gmail.com wrote:
.. Breaking a chain sucks,
 and is virtually unavoidable... walking home sucks even more.

Agree with you on assertion two, but assertion one is not  my
experience, anyway -- at all true. In 50 years of riding I've broken a
chain once and that was due to poor installation.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Check 'dem Chains Folks

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 1:52 PM, S.Cutshall great in the sand,
Patrick... just take the tire pressure
 down to 4 or 5lbs PSI and go, go, go...

 -Scott

4-5 psi --- um! Makes the 12 psi on the BAs look like track pressures!

Someday ...

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[RBW] Re: Rear Hub Advice


8 speed FW's are made by Sunrace currently  I don't know of anyone
else. I do see many NOS Sachs though on ebay, which are better FW's.
Otherwise 7 speeds are fine. Sunrace and Shimano both make FW's as
does IRD, but I still question their QC, so I hesitate to recommend
them.

I use 7sp FW's mainly because I found I don't like manually shifting
more than 7 cogs. It loses something for me.   It doesn't hurt that I
have more than 15 FW's on hand too.  A 7sp. FW with 2 or 3 rings in
plenty for any riding .

Unless you had a supply of FW's , or had the cash to invest in some
spares, you may be better of getting cassettes. But, even those have
seen 8sp. cog choices become more and more limited. If you're handy,
this isn't a problem as you can make your own by taking them apart.

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: midge, junebug, woodchipper, etc

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 2:13 PM, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
 Jim,
  I have a burley tandem with a threadless headset/stem and having to
 move it around to get the bars up was a giant pain in the ass.

 I had a bianchi castro valley, same thing, In general, I've found that
 since getting a rivendell that headset adjustment and maintenance,
 including raising and lowering the bars, give me much less heartburn.

 I'm not pulling the idea of not like threadless from a place of zero
 experience with them. I'm coming from my own personal experience and
 watching  what happens with normal use of a bike for me.


Oh and let me speak from the other direction, too.

I'd be fine with threadless headsets if I could put a quill stem in
them and have the whole kit look elegant and finished.

I've seen what Sheldon Brown did, by putting a clamp around the
steerer tube then shimming a quill stem into it and that while
imaginative did not look finished or complete.

A headset could be designed such that the steerer is threadless and
9/8' and tightened/finished with a allen-wrench tightened top cap/lock
nut. And STILL be possible to fit a quill stem into the whole kit for
adjustment AND have it look elegant in the process.;

That way mechanics get their wish of being able to work on threadless
headsets/steerers and users like me can still adjust the bars up and
down w/o having to mess with the whole headset in the process.

I'll have to think on it a bit but it sure seems like you would only
really need a 'top cap/shim piece that covers the top 40mm of steerer
and then either an attached or detached shim to make it all fit
together nicely with standard 1 quill stems.

So - take what sheldon did, and make it a finished process.

I wonder if/how much not having a star nut involved weakens or
compromises the system

-sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: Drop Bars vs. Non-drops

2010-08-29 Thread David Sprunger

Hi.  Does anyone have experience with the Jitensha and Albatross bars,
and if so, could you comment on differences between the two?
Thanks,
David Sprunger
Fargo, ND

On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 1:03 PM, stevep33 steve...@gmail.com wrote:
 Check out the Jitensha flat bar (by Nitto). It's a great flat
 handlebar with a moderate backsweep.  Perfect for brisk rides around
 town where sitting up a little bit is more fun.

 I'm all for drops for long or fast rides; gives lots of hand/body
 positions.

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[RBW] DC area RBWers?

2010-08-29 Thread Bruce

I'm vacationing in DC the week following Labor Day (riding the Tour de Valley 
in 
Waynesboro VA on Labor Day). I plan to ride most mornings (could probably work 
in something else too) while we're up there. If anyone in that neck of the 
woods 
wants to ride around some, please email me off channel. I'm bringing a '95 Road 
Standard, with 650B wheels on it. 


Hope see some other lugged steel up there.

Bruce



  

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Flag?

2010-08-29 Thread SFF

Ha! Well nevermind then!

On Aug 29, 2:59 pm, Marty mgie...@mac.com wrote:
 Riv had 'em made a while back, and couldn't sell 'em for some odd
 reason. (All time worst seller as I recall) Two sizes. I bought a
 couple big 'uns, the the smaller ones were made just for the reasons
 you mentioned. They were nice, well made, and fun. Maybe they have a
 few left waving around the store?

 Marty

 On Aug 29, 2:50 pm, SFF jgre...@earthlink.net wrote:



 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] FS - Re-imagined 64cm Trek TX500

2010-08-29 Thread Marty

A new project in the works, so this one has to go. Will go to Ebay in
a couple weeks if no-one here is in the mood. Zero miles since
completed as I moved to Chicago the weekend after it was completed.
Shown at the Cirque du Cyclisme this year. Planning a Riv-based year-
round heavy-duty commuter, and simply won't use this one. Gorgeous
paint by Circle A., with plenty of braze-on work by Bishop bikes in
Baltimore. Paul Racer braze-ons, Phil, Velocity, Brooks, Nitto, TA,
Suntour, Honjo, all the Rivish stuff. Would love to keep it together,
but will part it out if you can come up with a better package. (How
could that be?)

Frame alone, or complete as currently built. Specs on the Flickr page.
Willing to deal within reason. Bike is in the Baltimore/Washington DC
area. I am in Chicago, but get back pretty often. Negotiations begin
at $1,300 for the FFHS (includes custom front rack that will only fit
this bike) , or $2,300 complete. Shipping will be actual cost, or we
can meet for a pickup at an agreeable location. Contact me off list.
Thanks.

http://tinyurl.com/3a959xu

Marty

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[RBW] Re: Drop Bars vs. Non-drops

 Life has a way of throwing forks in the road you never knew were
there.

I used to ride all drops, except my mtb bike.  I was all about
efficiency while riding  trying to go as far as I could as fast as
I could. Then, something happened that I could no longer ride without
severe pain. I gave it up for 4-5 years. I had never not ridden a bike
for so long, minus birth.  I went for riding 20-30-40-80 mile rides to
nothing.

I decided to try riding again one day . F the pain. Well, slowly I
was able to do 15-20 minute rides on my mtb bike, then slowly I could
do more. Something had changed though. I was weaker from the loss of
muscle and fitness, but I also appreciated riding like I never did
before.  Speed didn't matter . hell ... I was riding a bike
again! . and I think it's one of the coolest things a human can
do.

While I can ride longer today, I can never forget how quickly it can
all go away. So, when I'm riding up some monster hills, or the wind is
high .  . .  I just think of not being able to ride . .  .and how I'd
rather be here, however fast or slow I ride.  Then , I can
relax. .  .  and just ride within my ability at the moment. It's not
going to win me a Tour De France , or help me keep up to
others .  .  . but that's not why I ride.  .  I ride because it's the
closest I can get to flying I suppose  there's nothing like it.

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[RBW] Re: Check 'dem Chains Folks

2010-08-29 Thread Jim Cloud

I've also only had one chain that broke on me.  That was on an uphill
stretch, which fortunately didn't end up with me being thrown
forward.  I had a chain tool with me, and some spare chain links.  In
a few minutes I was on my way again This occurred far from home on a
lightly traveled rural road (the road from Amado to Arivaca, for you
Arizona folks), before the days of cell phones, so I would have needed
to depend on the kindness of others to bail me out if I couldn't fix
the chain.

I alway carry a Park CT-5C Mini Chain Brute Tool and spare links in
my kit.

Jim Cloud
Tucson, AZ

On Aug 29, 1:10 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 6:47 AM, Montclair BobbyBmontclairbob...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

 .. Breaking a chain sucks,

  and is virtually unavoidable... walking home sucks even more.

 Agree with you on assertion two, but assertion one is not  my
 experience, anyway -- at all true. In 50 years of riding I've broken a
 chain once and that was due to poor installation.

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[RBW] Jitensha vs. Albatross bars (was Drop Bars vs. Non-drops)

I have and have used both.  I much prefer the Alba, mainly for the variety of 
hand positions and ability to grab the outer (top?) bends to climb or go aero.  
The Jitensha have just one hand position and my hands numbed out in about 45 
minutes.  I haven't used them in a year or so for that reason.  I must admit, 
however, that they are nice looking bars.

ray





From: David Sprunger sprun...@gmail.com
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Sun, August 29, 2010 1:19:00 PM
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Drop Bars vs. Non-drops

Hi.  Does anyone have experience with the Jitensha and Albatross bars,
and if so, could you comment on differences between the two?
Thanks,
David Sprunger
Fargo, ND

On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 1:03 PM, stevep33 steve...@gmail.com wrote:
 Check out the Jitensha flat bar (by Nitto). It's a great flat
 handlebar with a moderate backsweep.  Perfect for brisk rides around
 town where sitting up a little bit is more fun.

 I'm all for drops for long or fast rides; gives lots of hand/body
 positions.

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[RBW] Re: Rear Hub Advice

2010-08-29 Thread Dave Craig

Tim:

Personal experience is interesting.

I'm also over 200 pounds and I've been riding bikes for 40 or so years
in all of the increments of gearing - pre-BMX, touring, MTB. Yet, I
haven't had a spoke break since 1980 - the year I got my first
handmade rear wheel. I have had two wheels develop eyelet cracks and
one wheel self-destructed due to a rim manufacturing defect AND I've
had a slew of crappy machine made wheels that always seemed to go out
of true. That's not the same as comparing apples to apples - My
experience tells me that well built 36h wheels (with good quality
parts and a professional build) are pretty equal in durability. I will
certainly acknowledge that less dish is probably an advantage to the 7
speed freewheel hub (on a 135mm spacing!), but that it is a belt and
suspenders approach to building strong wheels that carries with it the
disadvantage of availability of parts/ranges/shifters. I will also
admit that I've wanted a set wheels builty with those Riv/Phil hubs
and a seven speed FW for a couple of years.

As you pointed out in your post, heavy, aggressive riders certainly
put more strain on their wheels. I met a guy this summer who had
toured 10,000 miles on his stock Surly LHT without any wheel issues!
He packed lightly and weighed about 170.


Dave

On Aug 29, 1:06 pm, Tim McNamara tim...@bitstream.net wrote:
 On Aug 29, 2010, at 1:51 PM, Dave Craig wrote:

  I'll assert again that the supposed advantage of the
  dishless/freewheel wheel bit is WAAAY overstated.

 That's not my experience, being old enough to have gone from 1 cog to  
 9 in all of the increments over the past 45 years.  The higher dish  
 wheels fail much faster (going out of true, cracking rims).  But I am  
 also 6'4 and 220 lbs, built more like a linebacker than like Lance.  
 Someone who's 140 lbs would probably have a much different experience  
 than me.

 To the OP, I have had a 36 spoke/135 mm/7 sp rear wheel on my All-
 Rounder for 14 years.  I never had to true the rear wheel from 1996  
 until I replace the worn out rim two years ago.  And I've not had to  
 retrue the new wheel (same hub, same spokes, new rim).  Ultra-
 reliable.  This is the bike I use on and off-road, on gravel roads,  
 for light touring and brevets, etc.

 The issue with freewheels is that it's harder to find the cog ranges  
 that you can find with cassettes.  There are good ones out there-  
 Shimano still makes freewheels, after all, and there are other makers  
 as well (IRD, for example) although many bike shops are less likely  
 to stock a lot of them.  The dish is not necessarily less between  
 freewheel and cassette hubs with the same number of cogs.

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[RBW] Re: Check 'dem Chains Folks

Agreed... never broken a chain before last night.

Thinking it pretty rare.

Hoping it, extremely rare.

On a different note: just back from riding to LBS for chain [and some
derailleur cables--as they looked pretty hanked]... 7 bucks a pop for
cables [and a parking lot full of late model Saab's, Volvo's  BMW's
with roof racks loaded down with high-end carbone bikes, hmmm]?

-Scott



On Aug 29, 1:10 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 6:47 AM, Montclair BobbyBmontclairbob...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

 .. Breaking a chain sucks,

  and is virtually unavoidable... walking home sucks even more.

 Agree with you on assertion two, but assertion one is not  my
 experience, anyway -- at all true. In 50 years of riding I've broken a
 chain once and that was due to poor installation.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Metric century is in the can!

2010-08-29 Thread Steve Palincsar

On Sun, 2010-08-29 at 09:05 -0700, RoadieRyan wrote:
 Congrats on the Metric!  I did my summer Metric last month and had a
 blast, not sure I am ready for the ol' Imperial yet but the 100km was
 a good distance-a stretch but not a slog.  Thanks for sharing the
 photos and nice looking cap btw ;-)

Keep doing those 100km rides as regular old ordinary weekend rides, and
the imperial will be a stretch but not a slog.  At least, that's
been my experience.





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[RBW] Re: Check 'dem Chains Folks

2010-08-29 Thread charlie

Wow Scott...over 12K on a Pug ! Ghee whizz that is a whole bunch
of riding. My cycling cap goes off to you.  We're not worthy, we're
not worthy, excellent !!! : )
I'm going to find the time to ride more because its fun.that's all
I know.

On Aug 29, 12:52 pm, S.Cutshall clotht...@gmail.com wrote:
 I am doing fine, just sore and bruised [about to ride the Bleriot to
 get a new chain for the Pug].

 No, I saw nothing obvious on the chain -but it was quite dark and with
 my h-bar light didn't notice much... and no inspecting it later as I
 chucked the chain into a garbage can near the place of failure- so I
 can't report any defects, etc.  Chain had to be worn though... I've
 put a little over 12,400 miles on the Pug since Feb. of this year [and
 the chain was well-used last year].

 Pug does great in the sand, Patrick... just take the tire pressure
 down to 4 or 5lbs PSI and go, go, go...

 -Scott

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Re: [RBW] Re: Check 'dem Chains Folks

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 3:34 PM, S.Cutshall clotht...@gmail.com wrote:

 On a different note: just back from riding to LBS for chain [and some
 derailleur cables--as they looked pretty hanked]... 7 bucks a pop for
 cables [and a parking lot full of late model Saab's, Volvo's  BMW's
 with roof racks loaded down with high-end carbone bikes, hmmm]?


Vignette: Location: higher end bike shop, Fat Tire Cycles, ABQ, NM.
Time: Saturday morning, about 2 years ago. Characters: me, going in
for a wheel build; man with a carbon bike in because the brifters are
off. I scuttle the butt with the staff and, as I am walking out, I
see said man muttering to himself as he gets ready to load the bike
into his Hummer.

Oh well, we're all fools in our own way -- I certainly don't exempt myself!

Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: Check 'dem Chains Folks

Thanks.

Yeah, this year my project has been, what I call, The Year of The
Pug.  I've tried [am trying] to do all my rides [pleasure, errands,
etc] via The Pug.

Mostly successful so far, a few rides on the Bleriot/a couple on my
custom [before I stored it away] and a couple on loaners whilst
traveling, but otherwise... it's been All-Pug, All-The-Time.

I shot for 20K last year, almost made it too [short by 300 miles],
wanted 25K this year, got The Pug and realized impossible, unless I
am willing to either weigh 90 pounds by X-Mas  land in the ER and/or
begin intaking an additional 2000 calories per day... so I feel like
16-17K by year's end on the Pug is good.

Next year... less Pug [it's fun, but it's laborious too].

-Scott

On Aug 29, 3:31 pm, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Wow Scott...over 12K on a Pug ! Ghee whizz that is a whole bunch
 of riding. My cycling cap goes off to you.  We're not worthy, we're
 not worthy, excellent !!! : )
 I'm going to find the time to ride more because its fun.that's all
 I know.

 On Aug 29, 12:52 pm, S.Cutshall clotht...@gmail.com wrote:

  I am doing fine, just sore and bruised [about to ride the Bleriot to
  get a new chain for the Pug].

  No, I saw nothing obvious on the chain -but it was quite dark and with
  my h-bar light didn't notice much... and no inspecting it later as I
  chucked the chain into a garbage can near the place of failure- so I
  can't report any defects, etc.  Chain had to be worn though... I've
  put a little over 12,400 miles on the Pug since Feb. of this year [and
  the chain was well-used last year].

  Pug does great in the sand, Patrick... just take the tire pressure
  down to 4 or 5lbs PSI and go, go, go...

  -Scott

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[RBW] Re: Drop Bars vs. Non-drops

2010-08-29 Thread JoelMatthews

 Hi.  Does anyone have experience with the Jitensha and Albatross bars,
 and if so, could you comment on differences between the two?

I have both bars.  The Jitensha are great - and look great as well.
They are less versatile than the Albatross.  They need to be paired to
the correct bike.  If they are, you will be very happy with them.
True, they do not have as many possible grip points as drops or swept
back such as the Albatross.  But (again highly dependent on being
matched with the right bike) they put your hands at a very good riding
position, similar to riding with your hands on the brake hoods with
drops.

The Albatross are also great looking bars.  You can use them in a lot
of different situations.  You can set them up straight back.  Tilt
them down.  Flip them.  Of course if you are into bar end shifters
Albas fit them.

Hope this helps.

On Aug 29, 3:19 pm, David Sprunger sprun...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi.  Does anyone have experience with the Jitensha and Albatross bars,
 and if so, could you comment on differences between the two?
 Thanks,
 David Sprunger
 Fargo, ND



 On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 1:03 PM, stevep33 steve...@gmail.com wrote:
  Check out the Jitensha flat bar (by Nitto). It's a great flat
  handlebar with a moderate backsweep.  Perfect for brisk rides around
  town where sitting up a little bit is more fun.

  I'm all for drops for long or fast rides; gives lots of hand/body
  positions.

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[RBW] Re: Check 'dem Chains Folks

2010-08-29 Thread William

12K on one chain?  Isn't that way way way more than anyone would ever
recommend?

On Aug 29, 3:43 pm, S.Cutshall clotht...@gmail.com wrote:
 Thanks.

 Yeah, this year my project has been, what I call, The Year of The
 Pug.  I've tried [am trying] to do all my rides [pleasure, errands,
 etc] via The Pug.

 Mostly successful so far, a few rides on the Bleriot/a couple on my
 custom [before I stored it away] and a couple on loaners whilst
 traveling, but otherwise... it's been All-Pug, All-The-Time.

 I shot for 20K last year, almost made it too [short by 300 miles],
 wanted 25K this year, got The Pug and realized impossible, unless I
 am willing to either weigh 90 pounds by X-Mas  land in the ER and/or
 begin intaking an additional 2000 calories per day... so I feel like
 16-17K by year's end on the Pug is good.

 Next year... less Pug [it's fun, but it's laborious too].

 -Scott

 On Aug 29, 3:31 pm, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:

  Wow Scott...over 12K on a Pug ! Ghee whizz that is a whole bunch
  of riding. My cycling cap goes off to you.  We're not worthy, we're
  not worthy, excellent !!! : )
  I'm going to find the time to ride more because its fun.that's all
  I know.

  On Aug 29, 12:52 pm, S.Cutshall clotht...@gmail.com wrote:

   I am doing fine, just sore and bruised [about to ride the Bleriot to
   get a new chain for the Pug].

   No, I saw nothing obvious on the chain -but it was quite dark and with
   my h-bar light didn't notice much... and no inspecting it later as I
   chucked the chain into a garbage can near the place of failure- so I
   can't report any defects, etc.  Chain had to be worn though... I've
   put a little over 12,400 miles on the Pug since Feb. of this year [and
   the chain was well-used last year].

   Pug does great in the sand, Patrick... just take the tire pressure
   down to 4 or 5lbs PSI and go, go, go...

   -Scott

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Flag?

2010-08-29 Thread manueljohnacosta

Check with the store they have just a few left... I got one to hang in
my classroom.

On Aug 29, 1:52 pm, SFF jgre...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Ha! Well nevermind then!

 On Aug 29, 2:59 pm, Marty mgie...@mac.com wrote:



  Riv had 'em made a while back, and couldn't sell 'em for some odd
  reason. (All time worst seller as I recall) Two sizes. I bought a
  couple big 'uns, the the smaller ones were made just for the reasons
  you mentioned. They were nice, well made, and fun. Maybe they have a
  few left waving around the store?

  Marty

  On Aug 29, 2:50 pm, SFF jgre...@earthlink.net wrote:

  - Show quoted text -

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: midge, junebug, woodchipper, etc

2010-08-29 Thread Bill Connell



On Aug 29, 2010, at 2:23 PM, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:

 On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 3:17 PM, Bill Connell bconn...@gmail.com wrote:
 The software analogy is flawed, because the vast majority of software
 users don't maintain and modify their own apps, but they certainly can
 work on their own bikes.
 
 The analogy is apt here. A lot of folks on this list do work on their own 
 bikes.
 
 And the software I work on is open source so it is much more apparent
 like bikes, to work on.


Apt for you, sure, but a lot more people work on their bikes than on software. 
The analogy is works if you compare adjusting threaded headsets to coding in 
Java, and threadless to writing HTML (no compiler needed).

Bill

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[RBW] Re: Check 'dem Chains Folks

Perhaps... I know this though, my ribs and pubic bone would
wholeheartedly agree with you.

That said, last year I got 19,700 miles out of single chain, in
Portland, Oregon no less.

-Scott

On Aug 29, 4:09 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 12K on one chain?  Isn't that way way way more than anyone would ever
 recommend?

 On Aug 29, 3:43 pm, S.Cutshall clotht...@gmail.com wrote:

  Thanks.

  Yeah, this year my project has been, what I call, The Year of The
  Pug.  I've tried [am trying] to do all my rides [pleasure, errands,
  etc] via The Pug.

  Mostly successful so far, a few rides on the Bleriot/a couple on my
  custom [before I stored it away] and a couple on loaners whilst
  traveling, but otherwise... it's been All-Pug, All-The-Time.

  I shot for 20K last year, almost made it too [short by 300 miles],
  wanted 25K this year, got The Pug and realized impossible, unless I
  am willing to either weigh 90 pounds by X-Mas  land in the ER and/or
  begin intaking an additional 2000 calories per day... so I feel like
  16-17K by year's end on the Pug is good.

  Next year... less Pug [it's fun, but it's laborious too].

  -Scott

  On Aug 29, 3:31 pm, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:

   Wow Scott...over 12K on a Pug ! Ghee whizz that is a whole bunch
   of riding. My cycling cap goes off to you.  We're not worthy, we're
   not worthy, excellent !!! : )
   I'm going to find the time to ride more because its fun.that's all
   I know.

   On Aug 29, 12:52 pm, S.Cutshall clotht...@gmail.com wrote:

I am doing fine, just sore and bruised [about to ride the Bleriot to
get a new chain for the Pug].

No, I saw nothing obvious on the chain -but it was quite dark and with
my h-bar light didn't notice much... and no inspecting it later as I
chucked the chain into a garbage can near the place of failure- so I
can't report any defects, etc.  Chain had to be worn though... I've
put a little over 12,400 miles on the Pug since Feb. of this year [and
the chain was well-used last year].

Pug does great in the sand, Patrick... just take the tire pressure
down to 4 or 5lbs PSI and go, go, go...

-Scott

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Flag?

2010-08-29 Thread JimD

I've got one of the small ones attached to my tent.
When folks ask about it I tell them I'm on the Riv team. :)
-JimD

On Aug 29, 2010, at 4:31 PM, manueljohnacosta wrote:

Check with the store they have just a few left... I got one to hang in
my classroom.

On Aug 29, 1:52 pm, SFF jgre...@earthlink.net wrote:

Ha! Well nevermind then!

On Aug 29, 2:59 pm, Marty mgie...@mac.com wrote:

Riv had 'em made a while back, and couldn't sell 'em for some odd
reason. (All time worst seller as I recall) Two sizes. I bought a
couple big 'uns, the the smaller ones were made just for the reasons
you mentioned. They were nice, well made, and fun. Maybe they have a
few left waving around the store?

Marty

On Aug 29, 2:50 pm, SFF jgre...@earthlink.net wrote:

- Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Sam Hillborne For Sale

2010-08-29 Thread RickM

Sam Hillborne frameset for sale.  $1000 or Best Offer
Purchased April of this year.  The bike has seen little action.  My
alternative bike is the Specialized Tricross which sees more action
than the Sam.  Rivendell wants $1250 for the frameset.  I'd like to
pull in $1000, but make me an offer.  If you'd like to purchase the
complete bike or parts there are some nice ones on the bike.  Deore XT
drive train, new 105 shifters, Deore hubs with Synergy rim and Hetres,
Avid Shorty 6 brakes.

Contact me for pictures.  There are some nicks in the paint, but
nothing down to the metal.

RickM

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Flag?

2010-08-29 Thread jamison brosseau

don't get me wrong, I love Rivendell Bikes and company the whole
deal.  It seems as though they struck out, to do their own deal their
own way, and I would like to think that would be inspiration for folks
to do the same.  If you want a flag, why not make your own, and have
it be about you, not a company.  People will see the bikes, and you
will have lots of opportunities to talk up the company, but making
your own flag seems way cooler, and way more in line with the whole
Riv philosophy.
make your own flag,
jamison brosseau

On Aug 29, 8:36 pm, JimD rasterd...@comcast.net wrote:
 I've got one of the small ones attached to my tent.
 When folks ask about it I tell them I'm on the Riv team.  :)
 -JimD

 On Aug 29, 2010, at 4:31 PM, manueljohnacosta wrote:

  Check with the store they have just a few left... I got one to hang in
  my classroom.

  On Aug 29, 1:52 pm, SFF jgre...@earthlink.net wrote:
  Ha! Well nevermind then!

  On Aug 29, 2:59 pm, Marty mgie...@mac.com wrote:

  Riv had 'em made a while back, and couldn't sell 'em for some odd
  reason. (All time worst seller as I recall) Two sizes. I bought a
  couple big 'uns, the the smaller ones were made just for the reasons
  you mentioned. They were nice, well made, and fun. Maybe they have a
  few left waving around the store?

  Marty

  On Aug 29, 2:50 pm, SFF jgre...@earthlink.net wrote:

  - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Check 'dem Chains Folks

Patrick:

I do a lot of mountain biking, and I bust 9-speed chains more than I
care to admit and it's seldom quik-link that fails...  I think the
9-speed is just too THIN, which is another reason I really want to
stay with 7 or 8 speed (and a thicker-linked chain).  I should ask
where you buy your chains...
Peace,
BB

On Aug 29, 4:10 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 6:47 AM, Montclair BobbyBmontclairbob...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

 .. Breaking a chain sucks,

  and is virtually unavoidable... walking home sucks even more.

 Agree with you on assertion two, but assertion one is not  my
 experience, anyway -- at all true. In 50 years of riding I've broken a
 chain once and that was due to poor installation.

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[RBW] Re: Rear Hub Advice

Thanks to all for the replies.  The Phil Wood Touring hubs appear to
be virtually dishless thanks to an extended axle on the non-drive
side... the flanges appear to be equi-distant from the center.
Conventional cassette hubs on the other hand (unless offset by a disc
flange) most certainly require dishing, as the drive side flange is
always pushed closer to the true hub center due to the freehub.

I have owned Velocity Synergy in 650B... they were nice.  I can get
Dyads at a great price, and at 6'1, 230 lbs I don't think it's
overkill... the Dyad is actually lighter than the Synergy

I realize it's probably easier to get a cassette hub... I just wanted
to see whether others who have been using freewheels see any benefit
over cassette.  THANKS!
BB

On Aug 29, 4:13 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 IIRC, spacing between Shimao 7 sp cassette cogs is 3.5 mm while that
 between 8 sp cassette cogs is 3 mm.

 I just today ordered a 13-34 Shimano 7 sp cassette for the forthcoming Fargo.

 I don't see that fw hubs will have less dish than fh hubs; isn't the
 contrary true?

 On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 7:25 AM, Montclair BobbyB





 montclairbob...@gmail.com wrote:
  For my Bombadil, I plan to lace up a set of wheels with a derailleured
  rear and dynamo front hub.  I'd appreciate advice, particularly on my
  rear hub choice.

  Planned setup:

  Rims - 36-hole Velocity Dyad
  Front hub - Schmidt SON 28 or Shimano dh-3n80 (which I realize I may
  need to order from Europe for a 36-hole version)
  Rear hub - Phil Wood Freewheel Touring hub, 135mm width

  Here's where I could use some advice.  I'd prefer an 8-speed over a 9-
  speed, and would prefer the freewheel hub vs the cassette version (to
  reduce dish), but am concerned about availability of decent 8-speed
  freewheels.  Has anyone used this setup?  I may also consider a 7-
  speed freewheel, since I believe the cog spacing between the 7 and 8
  are the same, and I use an 8-speed bar-end shifter.  I currently own a
  Phil Wood 9-speed cassette disc hub on my Fargo, which is awesome.
  I'm thinking I can build a stronger wheel with the freewheel touring
  hub.

  Advice is much-appreciated... Thanks.
  BB

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Re: [RBW] Re: Drop Bars vs. Non-drops

2010-08-29 Thread Fai Mao

Garth,

I am the same way. I tore ligaments in my right leg several years ago. It
causes me to walk with a limp, I have a permanently sprained ankle. I can't
do the triathlon thing anymore. I had to get off the bike for nearly 4
years. I was told to sit on my butt, lift the leg and let it heal. What is
funny is that it hurts to walk but not ride the bike.

Incidently, I take the Surly 1X1 bars and twist them so that the outer ends
are bent downward. The outside edge of my bars is about 2-3 cm below the
nose of the saddle but the center of the bar is level with the saddle. When
combined with barends I find this setup to be a good commuter system as it
lets me go fast enough and still allows me to see. This is the equivilent of
riding the hoods with a really wide (54cm) drop bar

I also have a set of Cinelli Spinachi on the center of the bars to help
with headwinds. I grew up in Northern Texas so I know about riding into the
wind.

I think that climbing is more about gears and physical condition than drop
bars.

I find that with drop bars I tend to stare at my front tire. That may a
technique flaw but it is one I see all to often in road riders. They only
really look about 10 feet in front of where they are going.

On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 5:03 AM, Garth garth...@gmail.com wrote:

Life has a way of throwing forks in the road you never knew were
there.

I used to ride all drops, except my mtb bike. I was all about
efficiency while riding trying to go as far as I could as fast as
I could. Then, something happened that I could no longer ride without
severe pain. I gave it up for 4-5 years. I had never not ridden a bike
for so long, minus birth. I went for riding 20-30-40-80 mile rides to
nothing.

I decided to try riding again one day . F the pain. Well, slowly I
was able to do 15-20 minute rides on my mtb bike, then slowly I could
do more. Something had changed though. I was weaker from the loss of
muscle and fitness, but I also appreciated riding like I never did
before. Speed didn't matter . hell ... I was riding a bike
again! . and I think it's one of the coolest things a human can
do.

While I can ride longer today, I can never forget how quickly it can
all go away. So, when I'm riding up some monster hills, or the wind is
high . . . I just think of not being able to ride . . .and how I'd
rather be here, however fast or slow I ride. Then , I can
relax. . . and just ride within my ability at the moment. It's not
going to win me a Tour De France , or help me keep up to
others . . . but that's not why I ride. . I ride because it's the
closest I can get to flying I suppose there's nothing like it.

--
Fai Mao
The Blogger who sometimes responds to comments

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Re: [RBW] Re: Check 'dem Chains Folks

2010-08-29 Thread CycloFiend

on 8/29/10 4:09 PM, William at tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 12K on one chain?  Isn't that way way way more than anyone would ever
 recommend?

Probably.

On multi-geared bikes, it will tend to degrade the cassette cogs if you run
the chain too long - i.e. past its + 1/2 stretch point for 12 link pairs.
After that point, you make longer gullies in the sprocket and new chains
will just skim right over the top.

- J

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

Gallery updates now appear here - http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com

Maybe a bike, once discarded, pines away year after year for the first hand
that steered it, and as it grows old it dreams, in its bike way, of the
young roads.

-- Robert McCammon, Boy's Life

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Re: [RBW] Re: Check 'dem Chains Folks

I use 8 speed chains where I can, but I've used 9 and even 10 speed
(Connex) chains on derailleur and fixed gear bikes with no problems,
all with master links. I usually get the cheapest Sachs chains I can
find. Perhaps the problem happens more with Shimano chains?

170 lb; tend to be a masher; never shift under load -- learned to
shift back when Eddy was in his prime.

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 3:08 PM, Montclair BobbyB
montclairbob...@gmail.com wrote:
 Patrick:

 I do a lot of mountain biking, and I bust 9-speed chains more than I
 care to admit and it's seldom quik-link that fails...  I think the
 9-speed is just too THIN, which is another reason I really want to
 stay with 7 or 8 speed (and a thicker-linked chain).  I should ask
 where you buy your chains...
 Peace,
 BB

 On Aug 29,

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[RBW] Re: Rear Hub Advice

Synergy O/C is 10g heavier, probably because of the eyelets.  I LIKE
eyelets!  But I have both Synergy and Dyad rims laced to Phil rear
touring hubs with 135 spacing.  Neither has ever given me a problem, I
don't think you can go wrong, The Dyad is a tough, stiff rim but it
probably won't feel harsh if you are riding fat 32 or 35 tires.

I have owned the Synergy set for a good while longer than the Dyad set
- my guess is that the Synergy wheelset (rear in particular) will turn
out to be the more stable, longer-lived wheel given similar use/
treatment.  That's just a hunch.

On Aug 29, 5:04 pm, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com
wrote:
 Thanks to all for the replies.  The Phil Wood Touring hubs appear to
 be virtually dishless thanks to an extended axle on the non-drive
 side... the flanges appear to be equi-distant from the center.
 Conventional cassette hubs on the other hand (unless offset by a disc
 flange) most certainly require dishing, as the drive side flange is
 always pushed closer to the true hub center due to the freehub.

 I have owned Velocity Synergy in 650B... they were nice.  I can get
 Dyads at a great price, and at 6'1, 230 lbs I don't think it's
 overkill... the Dyad is actually lighter than the Synergy

 I realize it's probably easier to get a cassette hub... I just wanted
 to see whether others who have been using freewheels see any benefit
 over cassette.  THANKS!
 BB

 On Aug 29, 4:13 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:



  IIRC, spacing between Shimao 7 sp cassette cogs is 3.5 mm while that
  between 8 sp cassette cogs is 3 mm.

  I just today ordered a 13-34 Shimano 7 sp cassette for the forthcoming 
  Fargo.

  I don't see that fw hubs will have less dish than fh hubs; isn't the
  contrary true?

  On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 7:25 AM, Montclair BobbyB

  montclairbob...@gmail.com wrote:
   For my Bombadil, I plan to lace up a set of wheels with a derailleured
   rear and dynamo front hub.  I'd appreciate advice, particularly on my
   rear hub choice.

   Planned setup:

   Rims - 36-hole Velocity Dyad
   Front hub - Schmidt SON 28 or Shimano dh-3n80 (which I realize I may
   need to order from Europe for a 36-hole version)
   Rear hub - Phil Wood Freewheel Touring hub, 135mm width

   Here's where I could use some advice.  I'd prefer an 8-speed over a 9-
   speed, and would prefer the freewheel hub vs the cassette version (to
   reduce dish), but am concerned about availability of decent 8-speed
   freewheels.  Has anyone used this setup?  I may also consider a 7-
   speed freewheel, since I believe the cog spacing between the 7 and 8
   are the same, and I use an 8-speed bar-end shifter.  I currently own a
   Phil Wood 9-speed cassette disc hub on my Fargo, which is awesome.
   I'm thinking I can build a stronger wheel with the freewheel touring
   hub.

   Advice is much-appreciated... Thanks.
   BB

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Re: [RBW] Re: Drop Bars vs. Non-drops

Well thank you.  It looks a touch awkward compared to the standard bicycle
(MCRB) of today.  But works really well for off road riding.  You can kinda'
see the idea behind getting them high here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4576760855/  If they're too low,
it's not only uncomfortable (IMHO) but puts you too far forward and low for
trail riding.

Which I happened to do some of today:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4940150438/in/datetaken/

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 12:58 PM, Garth garth...@gmail.com wrote:


 Hey David,  That looks cool ... the dirt drop stem kind of flows to
 the bars. .  . . it matches well.

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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne For Sale

What size and color?

On Aug 29, 5:37 pm, RickM rick.martor...@gmail.com wrote:
 Sam Hillborne frameset for sale.  $1000 or Best Offer
 Purchased April of this year.  The bike has seen little action.  My
 alternative bike is the Specialized Tricross which sees more action
 than the Sam.  Rivendell wants $1250 for the frameset.  I'd like to
 pull in $1000, but make me an offer.  If you'd like to purchase the
 complete bike or parts there are some nice ones on the bike.  Deore XT
 drive train, new 105 shifters, Deore hubs with Synergy rim and Hetres,
 Avid Shorty 6 brakes.

 Contact me for pictures.  There are some nicks in the paint, but
 nothing down to the metal.

 RickM

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[RBW] Re: pletscher double question

2010-08-29 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean

No experience trying to bend it... But I did try to notch it with a
dremel and got far enough to realize I'd have to take off more than I
wanted to in order to make it work. I'm pretty sure a 122.5mm bottom
bracket spindle would do the trick. But for me it wasn't worth trying
that either... The Q's not low to begin with Wouldn't want to bump
it up that much

Thomas Lynn Skean

On Aug 28, 4:20 pm, jandrews_nyc jasonaschwa...@gmail.com wrote:
 Has anyone had luck slightly bending in the non-drive side kickstand
 leg so as to allow the crankset to spin and therefore be able to make
 derailleur adjustments on the road?   I may finally have a use for my
 rubber mallet.
 Thats with a Hillborne and XD2 crankset by the way.
 Thanks

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Re: [RBW] Re: Metric century is in the can!

It would be pretty cool. And like the populaires intent, might get some
folks into cycling or event cycling.

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 11:44 AM, Beth H periwinkle...@yahoo.com wrote:

A Metric Club/web site is not a bad idea. I think this distance is
going to grow more popular with riders over time, as more of us
discover the joys of longer distances out in the country but don't
feel a need to go out and absolutely kill ourselves on our bikes.

I have a friend who ride Paris-Brest-Paris and is working on his third
trip next year. I'm glad for him, but as time goes by I find ride
reports from this event inspire me less and less. I've arrived at a
place where I think it is all about finding the right combination of
pleasure and challenge on the bike, erring heavily on the side of
pleasure. Metrics do it for me.

Maybe they do it for others, too; we could have a web site devoted to
ride reports and photos of America's Best Metric Centuries. Someone
else would have to set it up as that technology is beyond me; but if
they did, I'd contribute.

Beth

On Aug 29, 9:09 am, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
Thanks Beth! ...In fact, having a group dedicated to just that length
would be
a cool idea. The Metrics or Les Metrics I suppose.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Metric century is in the can!

I'm still trying to work up to that level.  Regular old ordinary is about 30
miles right now, with 60ish being a bit of a push... :-)

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 2:46 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:

 On Sun, 2010-08-29 at 09:05 -0700, RoadieRyan wrote:
  Congrats on the Metric!  I did my summer Metric last month and had a
  blast, not sure I am ready for the ol' Imperial yet but the 100km was
  a good distance-a stretch but not a slog.  Thanks for sharing the
  photos and nice looking cap btw ;-)

 Keep doing those 100km rides as regular old ordinary weekend rides, and
 the imperial will be a stretch but not a slog.  At least, that's
 been my experience.





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Re: [RBW] Re: Metric century is in the can!

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 9:40 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
 I'm still trying to work up to that level.  Regular old ordinary is about 30
 miles right now, with 60ish being a bit of a push... :-)



David,
 i'm right there with you. When I go out on a weekend it's normally
30-40miles and then home for a bit.

I do wish NC had more trails so that I could not have to think about cars.

-sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: Metric century is in the can!

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 2:44 PM, Beth H periwinkle...@yahoo.com wrote:
 A Metric Club/web site is not a bad idea. I think this distance is
 going to grow more popular with riders over time, as more of us
 discover the joys of longer distances out in the country but don't
 feel a need to go out and absolutely kill ourselves on our bikes.

 I have a friend who ride Paris-Brest-Paris and is working on his third
 trip next year. I'm glad for him, but as time goes by I find ride
 reports from this event inspire me less and less. I've arrived at a
 place where I think it is all about finding the right combination of
 pleasure and challenge on the bike, erring heavily on the side of
 pleasure. Metrics do it for me.

 Maybe they do it for others, too; we could have a web site devoted to
 ride reports and photos of America's Best Metric Centuries. Someone
 else would have to set it up as that technology is beyond me; but if
 they did, I'd contribute.


Anyone have an objection to just flickr? Stories in the flickr
discussion for a pool and pictures w/stories in the pool?

here you go:

http://www.flickr.com/groups/1462...@n25/

Join the group and post.

-sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: Metric century is in the can!

The Santa Ana River Trail is wonderful. One of the hidden gems of SoCal.
Hopefully someday it will be 100 miles stretching to the mountains. Right
now it's about 30ish non-stop, which is nothing to complain about!

I was up at the top end of it today:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/4939559369/

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 6:45 PM, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 9:40 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
wrote:
I'm still trying to work up to that level. Regular old ordinary is about
30
miles right now, with 60ish being a bit of a push... :-)

David,
i'm right there with you. When I go out on a weekend it's normally
30-40miles and then home for a bit.

I do wish NC had more trails so that I could not have to think about cars.

-sv

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[RBW] FS: '91 Bridgestone RB-1 59cm

2010-08-29 Thread Michael_S

I just got a new to me Green Rambouillet yesterday and have no room
for the this RB-1.
Paint job is in very good condition, just a few scratches and small
chips. I re-touched most of them.
When I got it everything had been changed from original. I added time
period correct NOS Suntour Sprint dérailleurs and shifters, a nice
Selle Regal saddle and new ITM post, new Nitto 115 45cm bars, vgc Dia
Compe Royal brake calipers with new Tektro levers. I had a very nice
Ritchey 110bcd compact crankset w/ 48-34 rings and used a new IRD
bottom bracket. The wheels are Open Pro CD's with Shimano 600 hubs and
a new 7 speed cassette and chain. Tires are fairly new Conti Gators
700x25. I'll throw in some low miles Ruffy Tuffys for another $35.
some pics here http://www.flickr.com/photos/37347...@n05/sets/72157623929220624/

according to some Reader article posted on Jim's Cyclofiend site this
was Grants favorite year for lugs and his favorite paint scheme.
Thought I would offer it up here 1st before Ebay. Price is $550 plus
shipping. West of the Rockies would be $50 and $65 east. Pick up in
SoCal is free.

send me a PM if you are interested.

~Mike~

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Re: [RBW] Re: Metric century is in the can!

2010-08-29 Thread Steve Palincsar

On Sun, 2010-08-29 at 18:40 -0700, cyclotourist wrote:
 I'm still trying to work up to that level.  Regular old ordinary is
 about 30 miles right now, with 60ish being a bit of a push... :-)

You've got to work your way up to it, and if you bite off too much, it
tends to bite a bit off of you as repayment.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Flag?

2010-08-29 Thread Bill Gibson

DIY, of course. Submit your design for plagiarism of the best kind.
Any publicity, especially, free, is good. However, I have no
connection other than being a customer to the company, so I had no
right to write that. Anyway...

I was told all my students are going to college, at least that is to
be my mission, and that I should hang College banners in my classroom.
So I hung my Rivendell banner, as much for me to enjoy as to inspire
my students to go to Rivendell. And I ordered a Hogwarts banner for
good measure. Some of us have to go to Hogwarts, some have to go to
Rivendell. I am a hobbitish man, so I am partial to the blue and
grey...Let me know if you have any freebies for other Universities, I
need some more for my classroom...

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 5:55 PM, jamison brosseau
jamison.bross...@gmail.com wrote:
 don't get me wrong, I love Rivendell Bikes and company the whole
 deal.  It seems as though they struck out, to do their own deal their
 own way, and I would like to think that would be inspiration for folks
 to do the same.  If you want a flag, why not make your own, and have
 it be about you, not a company.  People will see the bikes, and you
 will have lots of opportunities to talk up the company, but making
 your own flag seems way cooler, and way more in line with the whole
 Riv philosophy.
 make your own flag,
 jamison brosseau

 On Aug 29, 8:36 pm, JimD rasterd...@comcast.net wrote:
 I've got one of the small ones attached to my tent.
 When folks ask about it I tell them I'm on the Riv team.  :)
 -JimD

 On Aug 29, 2010, at 4:31 PM, manueljohnacosta wrote:

  Check with the store they have just a few left... I got one to hang in
  my classroom.

  On Aug 29, 1:52 pm, SFF jgre...@earthlink.net wrote:
  Ha! Well nevermind then!

  On Aug 29, 2:59 pm, Marty mgie...@mac.com wrote:

  Riv had 'em made a while back, and couldn't sell 'em for some odd
  reason. (All time worst seller as I recall) Two sizes. I bought a
  couple big 'uns, the the smaller ones were made just for the reasons
  you mentioned. They were nice, well made, and fun. Maybe they have a
  few left waving around the store?

  Marty

  On Aug 29, 2:50 pm, SFF jgre...@earthlink.net wrote:

  - Show quoted text -

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Re: [RBW] FS: '91 Bridgestone RB-1 59cm

Put me in line behind Andrew.  Andrew has first dibs. I live in NorCal, but 
traveling to SoCal later this week. 

From: andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Sun, August 29, 2010 7:19:20 PM
Subject: Re: [RBW] FS: '91 Bridgestone RB-1 59cm

i'm interested!  where in socal are you - i'm in LA.. 
but i'm 99% sure i'll take it.

best,
andrew

On Aug 29, 2010, at 7:14 PM, Michael_S wrote:

 I just got a new to me Green Rambouillet yesterday and have no room
 for the this RB-1.
 Paint job is in very good condition, just a few scratches and small
 chips. I re-touched most of them.
 When I got it everything had been changed from original. I added time
 period correct NOS Suntour Sprint dérailleurs and shifters, a nice
 Selle Regal saddle and new ITM post, new Nitto 115 45cm bars, vgc Dia
 Compe Royal brake calipers with new Tektro levers. I had a very nice
 Ritchey 110bcd compact crankset w/ 48-34 rings and used a new IRD
 bottom bracket. The wheels are Open Pro CD's with Shimano 600 hubs and
 a new 7 speed cassette and chain. Tires are fairly new Conti Gators
 700x25. I'll throw in some low miles Ruffy Tuffys for another $35.
 some pics here 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/37347...@n05/sets/72157623929220624/

 according to some Reader article posted on Jim's Cyclofiend site this
 was Grants favorite year for lugs and his favorite paint scheme.
 Thought I would offer it up here 1st before Ebay. Price is $550 plus
 shipping. West of the Rockies would be $50 and $65 east. Pick up in
 SoCal is free.

 send me a PM if you are interested.

 ~Mike~

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Re: [RBW] Re: Metric century is in the can!

Yes, that's for sure.  I don't get to ride during the week, so that hurts my
endurance the most.  Probably another reason 30 is a good number to do.  :-)

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 7:31 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:

 On Sun, 2010-08-29 at 18:40 -0700, cyclotourist wrote:
  I'm still trying to work up to that level.  Regular old ordinary is
  about 30 miles right now, with 60ish being a bit of a push... :-)

 You've got to work your way up to it, and if you bite off too much, it
 tends to bite a bit off of you as repayment.



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Redlands, CA

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[RBW] Re: FS - Re-imagined 64cm Trek TX500

Totally digging the TREK floor pump!

On Aug 29, 4:59 pm, Marty mgie...@mac.com wrote:
 A new project in the works, so this one has to go. Will go to Ebay in
 a couple weeks if no-one here is in the mood. Zero miles since
 completed as I moved to Chicago the weekend after it was completed.
 Shown at the Cirque du Cyclisme this year. Planning a Riv-based year-
 round heavy-duty commuter, and simply won't use this one. Gorgeous
 paint by Circle A., with plenty of braze-on work by Bishop bikes in
 Baltimore. Paul Racer braze-ons, Phil, Velocity, Brooks, Nitto, TA,
 Suntour, Honjo, all the Rivish stuff. Would love to keep it together,
 but will part it out if you can come up with a better package. (How
 could that be?)

 Frame alone, or complete as currently built. Specs on the Flickr page.
 Willing to deal within reason. Bike is in the Baltimore/Washington DC
 area. I am in Chicago, but get back pretty often. Negotiations begin
 at $1,300 for the FFHS (includes custom front rack that will only fit
 this bike) , or $2,300 complete. Shipping will be actual cost, or we
 can meet for a pickup at an agreeable location. Contact me off list.
 Thanks.

 http://tinyurl.com/3a959xu

 Marty

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[RBW] Re: Check 'dem Chains Folks

2010-08-29 Thread velomann

I agree with the advice on the SRAM Connex chains. I use their 8-
speeds on everything I ride or build for others. (the exception being
my cross bike which came stack with a 10-speed cassette and on which I
run  Wipperman chains) Thousands and thousands of miles on the Sram
chains and no breaks yet. Pretty inexpensive and plus they are easy to
remove when you need to.

On Aug 29, 6:17 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 I use 8 speed chains where I can, but I've used 9 and even 10 speed
 (Connex) chains on derailleur and fixed gear bikes with no problems,
 all with master links. I usually get the cheapest Sachs chains I can
 find. Perhaps the problem happens more with Shimano chains?

 170 lb; tend to be a masher; never shift under load -- learned to
 shift back when Eddy was in his prime.

 On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 3:08 PM, Montclair BobbyB



 montclairbob...@gmail.com wrote:
  Patrick:

  I do a lot of mountain biking, and I bust 9-speed chains more than I
  care to admit and it's seldom quik-link that fails...  I think the
  9-speed is just too THIN, which is another reason I really want to
  stay with 7 or 8 speed (and a thicker-linked chain).  I should ask
  where you buy your chains...
  Peace,
  BB

  On Aug 29,

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Flag?

2010-08-29 Thread grant

I THINK we still have our worst-selling item of all time, in both
sizes. No? If by some miracle and pure time we've sold out, we'll
reorder another 4-year supply. It won't cost much. I LIKE the pennant.
It looks good, nice colors. Where to actually put it seems to be the
problem. I've got an idea for a cheap promotion.

G

On Aug 29, 12:50 pm, SFF jgre...@earthlink.net wrote:
 I was out early on my SH scouting new (closer) S24O camp locations. I
 found a couple of possibilities but it would be in places that don't
 allow camping - but if I arrive at dark...yes, maybe.

 Anyway, I was thinking that it would be real nice to have a little
 Rivendell camp flag to hang on my tent pole or off a nearby tree. I'm
 thinking something like 6x8 or a little larger. It could have the
 Rivendell logo on one side and the head badge of your bike on the
 other - or both sides could have the head badge. Imagine how awesome
 looking a little Hunqapillar camp flag would be or an Atlantis camp
 flag- all blue and flapping in the wind at your camp site.

 If you are a commuter with racks, baskets or bags you could find a way
 to attach it to your load. It wouldn't need to flap in the wind here,
 just use it like a patch or something. Or, you could hang it where you
 park your bike at night - in the garage etc. If you have several
 Rivendell bikes, you could string them together.

 Might be a good way to get the Rivendell name out there and be a
 conversation starter. I'd buy one if they were available. (Maybe this
 has been done before and I'm just not up to speed.)

 Joel

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[RBW] Re: FS: '91 Bridgestone RB-1 59cm

2010-08-29 Thread Michael_S

Looks like it's sold. Andrew will get it Wed.

Thanks

~Mike~

On Aug 29, 7:43 pm, Ray Shine r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
 Put me in line behind Andrew.  Andrew has first dibs. I live in NorCal, but
 traveling to SoCal later this week.

 
 From: andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com
 To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Sun, August 29, 2010 7:19:20 PM
 Subject: Re: [RBW] FS: '91 Bridgestone RB-1 59cm

 i'm interested!  where in socal are you - i'm in LA..
 but i'm 99% sure i'll take it.

 best,
 andrew

 On Aug 29, 2010, at 7:14 PM, Michael_S wrote:





  I just got a new to me Green Rambouillet yesterday and have no room
  for the this RB-1.
  Paint job is in very good condition, just a few scratches and small
  chips. I re-touched most of them.
  When I got it everything had been changed from original. I added time
  period correct NOS Suntour Sprint dérailleurs and shifters, a nice
  Selle Regal saddle and new ITM post, new Nitto 115 45cm bars, vgc Dia
  Compe Royal brake calipers with new Tektro levers. I had a very nice
  Ritchey 110bcd compact crankset w/ 48-34 rings and used a new IRD
  bottom bracket. The wheels are Open Pro CD's with Shimano 600 hubs and
  a new 7 speed cassette and chain. Tires are fairly new Conti Gators
  700x25. I'll throw in some low miles Ruffy Tuffys for another $35.
  some pics here
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/37347...@n05/sets/72157623929220624/

  according to some Reader article posted on Jim's Cyclofiend site this
  was Grants favorite year for lugs and his favorite paint scheme.
  Thought I would offer it up here 1st before Ebay. Price is $550 plus
  shipping. West of the Rockies would be $50 and $65 east. Pick up in
  SoCal is free.

  send me a PM if you are interested.

  ~Mike~

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[RBW] Re: Metric century is in the can!

2010-08-29 Thread Beth H

Looks like you got your wish. I went ahead and added a photos and a
ride report.
I may even want to put together a little metric party here sometime.
(Since OrRando did NOT offer it's Snoozeville Populaire this year and
since I have yet to hear word of the Verboort Sausage Populaire
happening, I may just have to dig out the cue sheets and put together
a non-rando, non-timed ride myself...)
yeah. Metrics are great, I should do another one before the year is
out.
Beth

 In fact, having a group dedicated to just that length would be
 a cool idea.  The Metrics  or Les Metrics I suppose.

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[RBW] Bombadil ride video

2010-08-29 Thread William

I've been having fun playing around with my ultra-compact video
recorder, and with iMovie.  This is a little tribute video to my very
beloved Bombadil.  Also, from a filmmaking standpoint, I attempted to
make my vanilla little local mixed terrain loop out my front door look
far more 'extreme' than it really is through song-selection.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ybugg7u5UkM

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Re: [RBW] Re: Metric century is in the can!

Time away from commitments (familial or otherwise) is minimal, you don't
need a bunch of training (I'm the poster-boy for that!) and pretty much any
bike could do it so you don't need anything really specialized. Plus you
can get that mental sense of accomplishment that comes with milestone
numbers like 100!

Thanks for starting the group, Seth!

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 8:24 PM, Esteban proto...@gmail.com wrote:

I'm gonna talk with SDR about doing a Populaire next year. Its a big
PBP qualifying year for the clubs, and there will be several
opportunities for 200 300Ks next winter/spring up and down the west
coast. But - as any of us who rode the SFR Populaire in July would
have noticed - about half the riders were first-time randonneurs.
There were about 140 people, and it was a big success. I've got a
bunch of commuters down here in San DIego who are interested in doing
rando-style rides 100-115K.

I agree that 100K is perfect, especially in terms of time away from
the family. I like this idea of the fellowship of 100K. Kinda
perfect for a well-equipped Riv.

Esteban
San Diego, Calif.

On Aug 29, 6:39 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
It would be pretty cool. And like the populaires intent, might get some
folks into cycling or event cycling.

On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 11:44 AM, Beth H periwinkle...@yahoo.com
wrote:
A Metric Club/web site is not a bad idea. I think this distance is
going to grow more popular with riders over time, as more of us
discover the joys of longer distances out in the country but don't
feel a need to go out and absolutely kill ourselves on our bikes.

Beth

On Aug 29, 9:09 am, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
Thanks Beth! ...In fact, having a group dedicated to just that
length
would be
a cool idea. The Metrics or Les Metrics I suppose.

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Re: [RBW] Bombadil ride video