[RBW] Re: Supple tires and rim fit trouble

[Justin, Oakland]

I had a wheelset from VO with rims from that CR18 oversized batch. Fucking 
horrendous. I blame the rim in that case. 

-J

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[RBW] Re: Hunq with rack and v brakes?

[Kurt Manley]

Hey Preston,

Funny you should post this today. I just got done test fitting some XTR 
M951 V-brakes to my Hunq a few minutes ago. It has a Haulin Collin rack 
which attaches like your rack and the fit looks good. I wanted to do a 
quick mock up before buying levers and cables to minimize expenses until I 
could see that it looked ok so I'm not 100% certain yet but it looks like 
its a go so I'm going to buy levers and cables and do it up. I'll let you 
know how it works out but I am optimistic.  

On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 8:18:13 PM UTC-8, Preston Smith wrote:
>
> Thanks y'all. This has all been super helpful, especially the gravel bike 
> brake arm length chart.   
>
> Thanks! 
> Preston 
>

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[RBW] Re: Hunq with rack and v brakes?

[Preston Smith]

Thanks y'all. This has all been super helpful, especially the gravel bike brake 
arm length chart.   

Thanks! 
Preston 

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[RBW] Re: Supple tires and rim fit trouble

[drew]

Barlow pass tires were my first foray into the world of supple. Mounted them on 
sun cr18 and they were by far the hardest tires I've ever mounted. Didn't take 
30 minutes, and I'm not afraid to ride the bike, but I did note how difficult 
they were. 

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[RBW] Re: DIY: Blow up a chain into two pieces

[Deacon Patrick]

That all makes sense, but breaking the chain in two places, creating two, 
separate, bits of chain? Wouldn’t the first break have been enough the relieve 
the tension? Oh well. Quickbeam is all set for a (brain willing) longerish ride 
tomorrow. That’ll be right proper fixing. No more of the poser schlep. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Supple tires and rim fit trouble

[RonaTD]

On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 11:32:24 AM UTC-6, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> Hi all-
>
> I have a question about the fit of supple tires and the way they fit on 
> rims.
>
>  Compass Snoqualmie Passes on Sun C-18s (700c). Both tires are so tight to 
> the rim they're very difficult to get off and damned near impossible to get 
> back on. 
>

Another few data points ... Rat Trap Pass tires on Sun CR18 26" rims are 
excessively tight, Stampede Pass on Mavic MA2 700c rims are extremely 
tight, and Grand Bois Cerf blue 700c tires on Fir rims (not sure model) are 
absurdly tight. On the other hand,  Rat Trap Pass on the Velocity deep V 
rims on my CoMotion tandem are a bit loose, and Chinook Pass and Stampede 
Pass on DT TK540 rims are just right.

My experience has been that it's primarily the rims that appear to have the 
variance. My Sun 26" rims are tight with most tires I've tried on them, 
ditto for the MA2 and Fir rims.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee WI

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[RBW] PSA: Craigslist FS Email Notifications

[sameness]

Maybe this is old news, but I just got hip to it today:

https://ifttt.com/applets/CYpiZcew-get-an-email-whenever-a-new-craigslist-post-matches-your-search

Standard disclaimer: No affiliation, caveat lector, etc.

Jeff Hagedorn
Los Angeles, CA USA

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[RBW] Re: FS: Ortlieb Classic Messenger Bag

[Dave Grossman]

SOLD


>>

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[RBW] Re: Hunq with rack and v brakes?

[Jeremy Till]

I have a 59cm Clem which I'm 95% certain shares the same fork as the 29er 
hunqs.  I use a 32f front rack and Shimano XT T780 v-brakes, and it works.  
It is a very tight fit: the boot on the brake cable is very close to the 
center strut of the rack, but the cable itself does not touch or have any 
issues.  I don't think fenders would present any issue with this setup, 
however, since the brake cable is above the bottom of the fork crown.  

YMMV; as others have pointed out, different V-brakes have varying arm 
lengths. 

On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 12:15:53 PM UTC-8, Preston Smith wrote:
>
> Hey y'all!
>
> thinking about experimenting with v-brakes on my 29r hunqapillar, but it 
> doesn't really seem worth it if I have to change my rack or take off 
> fenders. Any one have any personal experience?
>
> Bike is  is set up with conti X king "2.4" (measure 2.1 on my synergy's), 
> 29r cascadia fenders, and a nitto 32f rack. 
>
> Thanks!!
> Preston 
> Olympia, WA
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS 51 Joe Appaloosa silver

[Doug Hansford]

$1400 shipped? I’m waiting on a Clem but a fully lugged bike would be cool. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 30, 2017, at 8:29 PM, Andrew Huston  
> wrote:
> 
> If any interest is piqued, I’m open to offers for a partial build as well. I 
> can use the levers, rear mech, maybe bars. I have a new set of smart sams 
> that will go with as well as big bens currently mounted. 
> 
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[RBW] Re: Roscoe Mtn Mixte spotted in the wild

[Bill Lindsay]

Nope, that's not mine.  Mine does have a black B-17 on it, but it still has 
drop bars and an orange Nitto Lugged stem.  Mine has hammered Honjo fenders 
for the winter.  Also, I've learned to stop annoying people by calling it a 
mixte.  It's a step-through.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA


On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 5:22:39 PM UTC-8, Ray Varella wrote:
>
> I saw the saddle before I noticed what it was perched on. 
> Considering how few of them are out there, I was surprised to see one. 
> Thumbs up. 
> I’m guessing it belongs to Bill. 
>
> Ray 
> Vallejo CAI

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[RBW] Re: DIY: Blow up a chain into two pieces

[Frank Conway]

I've broken two chains and it is one of the most abrupt and exciting things 
that can happen going slowly.  Thanks for sharing!



On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 11:37:02 AM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> 1. Remove derailure in a fit of single speed euphoria because you were 
> doing other things and rather than put the gear shifter on you decided to 
> take it off because it’s coming off eventually anyway. 
> 2. Find a gear combo on the 9-speed cassette that allows proper tension on 
> the chain without a tensioner. 
> 3. Think how smart you are for 2. 
> 4. Ride. Climb a hill. Stand, because it’s a 60” gear on a steepish hill. 
> POP! POW! 
> 5. Laugh hysterically at the shards of chain on the ground. 
> 6. Realize how happy you are that happened on a hill, going slowly so the 
> Pop! Pow! wasn’t followed rapidly my Oof! Ow! 
> 7. Laugh hysterically at what a fool you have for a mechanic. 
>
> Grin. 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick 
>
> www.CredoFamily.org 
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org

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Re: [RBW] Re: Clem Photos on Riv Website

[Eric Daume]

I picked up a used Clem this summer
,
and those stock Kendas are the worst tires I've ever come across. They
combine slow with uncomfortable, even aired down low enough where the
threads are showing. Do yourself a favor and change them out ASAP. I put on
some 40mm Resist Nomads, and the bike immediately felt faster and smoother.

Eric

On Thu, Nov 30, 2017 at 6:20 PM, Doug H.  wrote:

> I hope so, this is a relatively big expense for me but not as it would
> have been for all other Riv models. Thanks for the feedback.
>
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[RBW] Re: Hunq with rack and v brakes?

[dougP]

Remember also that V-brakes come in a wide number of arm lengths, as 
compiled on this chart:

https://www.gravelbike.com/v-brake-arm-lengths/

The distance from the fork mount to the crown hole would be important in 
planning the rack & specific V-brake selection.  

dougP

On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 12:15:53 PM UTC-8, Preston Smith wrote:
>
> Hey y'all!
>
> thinking about experimenting with v-brakes on my 29r hunqapillar, but it 
> doesn't really seem worth it if I have to change my rack or take off 
> fenders. Any one have any personal experience?
>
> Bike is  is set up with conti X king "2.4" (measure 2.1 on my synergy's), 
> 29r cascadia fenders, and a nitto 32f rack. 
>
> Thanks!!
> Preston 
> Olympia, WA
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS 51 Joe Appaloosa silver

[Andrew Huston]

If any interest is piqued, I’m open to offers for a partial build as well. I 
can use the levers, rear mech, maybe bars. I have a new set of smart sams that 
will go with as well as big bens currently mounted. 

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[RBW] Re: Hunq with rack and v brakes?

[drew]

Had a 29er hunq with Paul motolites and a pass/stow rack that attaches to the 
fork crown hole. I was worried about issues but it had a couple cm of 
clearance. 
In my opinion, the motolites are such a better stopping brake that it would be 
worth using a different rack. 

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[RBW] Re: Hunq with rack and v brakes?

[Joe Bernard]

Correctumundo. I used that rack with v-brakes on my first Clem (H) and I ended 
up with a bit of cloth tape on the rack arm that the brake wire straddled and 
rubbed on (that's a terrible idea, don't do it). You might get lucky with a 
long v-brake, but I don't think it's worth the trouble. 

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[RBW] Re: DIY: Blow up a chain into two pieces

[Christopher Murray]

I think Philip has it right. The chainline was off and the chain was 
essentially trying to get in line with the chainring. Climbing flexed the 
frame, decreased the distance between the bb and cassette, and created some 
slack (less tension) in the chain. The chain shifted (helped by the shape of 
the teeth on the cassette) and POW! It is pretty neat to imagine it all 
happening. 

Happy you are ok!

Cheers!
Chrus

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[RBW] Re: Hunq with rack and v brakes?

[Stuart Lovinggood]

I have a Joe with stock v brakes. The brake cable between the calipers is 
in the way of the mounting hole in the center of the fork crown. I am 
currently using a Soma rack with a mounting tab that hangs over the cable 
and is bent into place, although the LBS set it up in such a way that the 
rack is now slightly crooked. 

Sounds like Riv has put a disclaimer about V-brakes on the 32F 
page: https://www.rivbike.com/products/nitto-mini-front-rack-32f-20020 

Probably depends a lot on the V-brakes you're looking at and the height of 
the fork above the brake mounts. 


On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 12:15:53 PM UTC-8, Preston Smith wrote:
>
> Hey y'all!
>
> thinking about experimenting with v-brakes on my 29r hunqapillar, but it 
> doesn't really seem worth it if I have to change my rack or take off 
> fenders. Any one have any personal experience?
>
> Bike is  is set up with conti X king "2.4" (measure 2.1 on my synergy's), 
> 29r cascadia fenders, and a nitto 32f rack. 
>
> Thanks!!
> Preston 
> Olympia, WA
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: DIY: Blow up a chain into two pieces

[Deacon Patrick]

That could well be, Philip. Balrog sized hobbits’ll do that sometimes. Grin. My 
takeaway matches Kai’s thought: I’ll stick with dedicated fixed gear bits for 
fixed gear riding (initial 20 miles of fixed riding today — amazing. Brain 
willing more tomorrow, including more technical trail.).

With abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dynamo Hubs

[Peter White]

In the US, the prices of B lights vary with exchange rates. Busch &
Mueller hasn't changed their price for the Luxos U.

Peter J White

On Thu, Nov 30, 2017 at 5:19 PM, Jeff Lesperance 
wrote:

> My recollection is that the Luxos was more expensive when it first came
> out, though regardless, I chose the Sinewave Revolution when it first came
> out because:
>
> 1. I already owned decent lights - mostly B IQ Cyo lights
> 2. I have multiple bikes with dyno/headlights
> 3. It's easy to switch the Revolution to different bikes vs. moving a
> headlight around that's bolted to a front rack or crown with carefully
> routed wiring
>
> On Thu, Nov 30, 2017 at 12:10 PM, Tim Gavin  com> wrote:
>
>> Oh the Luxos has its drawbacks:
>>
>>- It's not as attractive as an Edelux
>>- The plastic body seems less durable
>>- Its beam is super wide but show plenty of notchy artifacts
>>- Early production runs had quality problems (connectors separating
>>from main board, water intrusion in handlebar switch), though these have
>>been addressed in newer production runs (identifiable by USB charging
>>"dongle" instead of socket)
>>
>> But, considering its low price for a light and charging combo, I'm ok
>> with those drawbacks.  I have two Luxos U's, and each has been reliable for
>> >2 years.  They've seen light rain, and I've definitely bonked into the one
>> on my 'cross bike while going over the handlebars.
>>
>> On Thu, Nov 30, 2017 at 7:40 AM, mm fs  wrote:
>>
>>> Why aren't people keener on the Luxos U light with integrated USB
>>> charger?  Seems more affordable than the Sinewave options.
>>>
>>>
>>> >>Sinewave beacon. Expensive, but the only real light/charger that I'm
>>> aware of.
>>>
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>>
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[RBW] Re: DIY: Blow up a chain into two pieces

[Philip Williamson]

Something weird happened that you don't want to happen again. My guess is 
now that your massive hobbit wattage while powering up that climb deflected 
the bottom bracket out of plane enough to shift to the unshiftable cog. 

Philip
www.biketinker.com 

On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 2:38:02 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Kai, that is my experience as well, that close enough is close enough with 
> dedicated ss/fixed set up with cross chaining on my QB (albeit that is 
> highly dialed in by Grant already). 
>
> Bill, 3/32”, aye. My typest is a wee bit daft in the head sometimes. Grin. 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick  

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[RBW] Re: Clem Photos on Riv Website

[Doug H.]

I hope so, this is a relatively big expense for me but not as it would have 
been for all other Riv models. Thanks for the feedback. 

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[RBW] Re: Clem Photos on Riv Website

[Joe Bernard]

You're gonna love it. The thumbshifters are great: The right/rear has a nice 
ratchet function similar to Silvers; left/front is a 9-speed clicker set to 
friction. There's no ratchet on that one, but it's kinda indexy anyway cuz 
you're only shifting two rings..forward for low, pull back for high. It's a 
fabulous system that feels very natural on the inside of pullback bars. 

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Re: [RBW] Dynamo Hubs

[Deacon Patrick]

Map and compass? Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] WTB: the big Randi Jo bartender bag

[Neil Doran]

I missed the boat on these, and according to Will, it was another famous 
Rive one-off, never to return. If anybody has one they want to off-load, I 
am interested! 

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Re: [RBW] Dynamo Hubs

[Bill Lindsay]

What problem are you trying to solve?  How long do you need your iPhone to 
run?  My policy is:

For rides up to 6 hours, I charge up my iPhone and use it.  
For rides over 6 hours, up to 15 hours, I charge up my iPhone and carry one 
2200 mA-hr USB battery.  The battery weighs ~70g, about the weight of one 
PowerBar.  I bought them from Adafruit, but there appear to be much cheaper 
sources:  https://www.adafruit.com/product/1959
For rides over 15 hours up to 22 hours, I charge up my iPhone and carry two 
2200 mA-hr USB batteries
For rides that cover multiple whole days, I carry two 2200mA-hr USB 
batteries.  In the daytime, I charge the depleted battery with a Sinewave 
Revolution.

Maybe the problem you are trying to solve is:  I need to ride now.  My 
iPhone is dead now.  All my backup batteries are dead now.  My dynamo can't 
power my iPhone.  My iPhone must be running at all times.  What do I do?  

If that's the problem, I don't have a  suggested solution.  I have not 
attempted to charge my personal iPhone with my Sinewave Revolution to 
confirm your observation that it is impossible.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA


  
On Wednesday, November 29, 2017 at 8:30:23 PM UTC-8, Bin Chen wrote:
>
> Anyone have a reliable solution for actually powering a modern day iPhone? 
> Seems all the stuff out there works for older iPhones at best? Or I need to 
> buy an interim pack that will change it to DC current. Not sure if 
> technology has caught up or I just need to suck it up and get what’s out 
> there.

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[RBW] Re: DIY: Blow up a chain into two pieces

[Deacon Patrick]

Kai, that is my experience as well, that close enough is close enough with 
dedicated ss/fixed set up with cross chaining on my QB (albeit that is highly 
dialed in by Grant already).

Bill, 3/32”, aye. My typest is a wee bit daft in the head sometimes. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dynamo Hubs

[Jeff Lesperance]

My recollection is that the Luxos was more expensive when it first came
out, though regardless, I chose the Sinewave Revolution when it first came
out because:

1. I already owned decent lights - mostly B IQ Cyo lights
2. I have multiple bikes with dyno/headlights
3. It's easy to switch the Revolution to different bikes vs. moving a
headlight around that's bolted to a front rack or crown with carefully
routed wiring

On Thu, Nov 30, 2017 at 12:10 PM, Tim Gavin 
wrote:

> Oh the Luxos has its drawbacks:
>
>- It's not as attractive as an Edelux
>- The plastic body seems less durable
>- Its beam is super wide but show plenty of notchy artifacts
>- Early production runs had quality problems (connectors separating
>from main board, water intrusion in handlebar switch), though these have
>been addressed in newer production runs (identifiable by USB charging
>"dongle" instead of socket)
>
> But, considering its low price for a light and charging combo, I'm ok with
> those drawbacks.  I have two Luxos U's, and each has been reliable for >2
> years.  They've seen light rain, and I've definitely bonked into the one on
> my 'cross bike while going over the handlebars.
>
> On Thu, Nov 30, 2017 at 7:40 AM, mm fs  wrote:
>
>> Why aren't people keener on the Luxos U light with integrated USB
>> charger?  Seems more affordable than the Sinewave options.
>>
>>
>> >>Sinewave beacon. Expensive, but the only real light/charger that I'm
>> aware of.
>>
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[RBW] Re: DIY: Blow up a chain into two pieces

[Bill Lindsay]

A 1/32” chain would be pretty narrow #sardonic grin 

Maybe you meant 3/32”. 

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[RBW] Re: DIY: Blow up a chain into two pieces

[Kainalu V.]

I've been told that modern chains needn't be "spot on" to be perfectly fine 
on a single speed. Not sure if this advice carries over to an improvised 
multi to single speed set up, but with dedicated single speed/track stuff, 
close enough is good enough. At least that's what I was told after 
agonizing over my single speed's chainline for some weeks.
-Kai
BK NY


On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 2:41:58 PM UTC-5, Garth wrote:
>
> Well gee .  . .  I laugh with you DP !  I've done my share of wacky things 
> with a bike too.   
>
> I don't own or ride a SS and never have even seen one, but just picturing 
> what you describe I can see why you had no chance. 
> For  SS, the chainline must be spot on(same plane if you will), if it is 
> not the chain would go to where that perfect spot was without regard for 
> anything, even the chain itself. 
>
> With derailer and cassette, the derailer allows you to go "out of the 
> bounds" of that perfect plane by using the springs and pulleys. Those cogs 
> are even designed for ease of movement from cog to cog. A fixed gear cog 
> is 
> designed to keep it right where it is. 
>
> So if you just take off a rear derailer , shorten the chain to the proper 
> tension for a given cog, unless that cog is in the sweet spot it's gonna 
> want to go there, again, without regard, and even helped by the fact that 
> the cogs are designed to facilitate that movement !  Yeah, you were doomed 
> before you began, a 2 wheel time bomb for when the chain wanted to move 
> and 
> it had nowhere to go and no length to accommodate it  BAM BAM BOOM 
> !   
>
> At least, this is my educated-by-what-I-know-not story called 
> "rationalization/reason". 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: DIY: Blow up a chain into two pieces

[Deacon Patrick]

Yea, chainline was my first thought, but I dismissed it as it was one cog up/in 
from center and the middle chain ring. I’d eyeballed it before riding and 
thought it looked alright, but I’m far from an expert.

Is 1/8 chain stronger than 1/32? I’d understood they were the same. 

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: FS - Nitto fillet bullmoose, Ahearne Map bar, Tektro levers, Carradice bag & support

[ant ritchey]

Bullmoose have sold. Ahearne Map bars pending. 

Still have both sets of levers.

PRICE DROP on the Carradice set up: $100 even + actual shipping.

Thanks y'all!
(though I am from Pittsburgh so it oughtta be "thank yinz")

On Wednesday, November 29, 2017 at 2:39:41 PM UTC-8, ant ritchey wrote:
>
> Continuing the workshop purge...
>
> Riv spec Nitto Bullmoose, fillet brazed. Light use. Very good condition. 
> $110
>
> Ahearne Map bar, silver. 570 c-to-c width. Some scratches at clamp but 
> very good condition. $35
>
> Tektro FL750 levers, silver. Very good condition. I have 2 sets of these 
> for sale. $15/pair
>
> Carradice Camper Longflap in black w/ Expedition Bagman support w/ Quick 
> Release. Light use, very good condition. $115 for the bag & support.
>
> Wanna trade? Looking for the following, at current:
> SONdelux hub, 64-66cm road/touring f/f, silver Paul Melvin, heat treated 
> Nitto Albatross bars, Sim Works Get Around bar, Honjo H95's, King Many 
> Things cages, Gransfors Bruks (or similar) splitting maul or large-ish axe, 
> waterproof and/or hiking footwear in 13 mens.
>
> Prices don't include shipping. Paypal Friends & Fam or pay the fees, 
> please. I'm in North Portland if you're local. PM if interested or for 
> photos of any thing you'd like to see! Please lemme know if you have any 
> questions or if I forgot something!
>
> -Ant Ritchey in PDX OR
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem Photos on Riv Website

[Doug H.]

That's good to hear Joe. I want a sometimes commuter and just ride bike 
that is more upright than a dropbar setup. I did get the H so it won't be 
so easy to mount but that's not a big deal for me...yet. Do you like the 
thumb shifting?

On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 4:00:30 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I have a 52cm L and it's a great the-bike-you-ride-every-day bike. Stout 
> but not dead feeling, smooth but still has a nice turn in. And the low 
> stepover - especially when mounting a bike loaded down with gear and stuff 
> - will make you wonder why you over rode bikes with that silly crossbar 
> sittin' way up high. I've owned a stack of Rivs and I think this is one of 
> the best frames they've ever done. 

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[RBW] Re: Hunq with rack and v brakes?

[Tim O. (Portland, OR)]

I have a Hunqapillar fork with Schwalbe G-One 2.35s (~2.1 on synergy rims), 
Avid Single Digit v-brakes, SKS B-65 fenders and a Surly Front Rack. Works 
just fine. I'll probably get a little smaller tire for the next round with 
fenders because it's tight, but the v-brakes aren't the issue. 

Cheers,
Tim O.
Portland, OR 

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[RBW] Re: Supple tires and rim fit trouble

[David B]

Hi Eric,
I am running Snoqualmie Pass tires on CR18s and while a little tight, 
they're not overly difficult to mount. I did use Stan's tape on those as I 
was out of cloth rim tape so maybe that is what helped.
David

On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 2:26:38 PM UTC-6, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> Hi Bill-
>
> Yep, I used Stan's tubeless rim tape on the A23s as specified. I don't 
> remember them being quite as bad as the Sun rims, but they were still 
> difficult. I'm a pretty mediocre home mechanic and I'm sure I could improve 
> my technique, but I also rarely require more than on tire lever even on 
> tighter tires. On the Sun rims, it's just ridiculous. It feels like I'm 
> trying to stretch a 650b tire onto a 700c rim. If nobody else has run into 
> this problem, I'm beginning to think that there might be something wrong 
> with the rims. I did a bit of research and have come across similar 
> complaints with that rim. Sigh.
>
> Eric
>
>
> On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 3:16:51 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> A-23 rims are tubeless compatible.  This means you should/must use 
>> tubeless rim tape, even if you are running tubes.  Stans, or an equivalent 
>> thin, slippery rim tape is necessary, unless you want to make your life 
>> miserable.  What rim tape are you using?
>>
>> The very tightest tires take me about a minute to install with my bare 
>> hands.  The very tightest tires might require me to use one tire lever to 
>> remove in about 15 seconds.  I believe it's possible to have defective 
>> oversized rims that make it unnecessarily difficult to get tires on and 
>> off.  Have a good mechanic remove and install your tires with you watching, 
>> and decide whether you can make improvements to your technique.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 9:32:24 AM UTC-8, Eric Karnes wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi all-
>>>
>>> I have a question about the fit of supple tires and the way they fit on 
>>> rims.
>>>
>>> I've had only two experience with very supple tires. Pari-motos on 
>>> Velocity A-23s (650b) and most recently Compass Snoqualmie Passes on Sun 
>>> C-18s (700c). Both tires are so tight to the rim they're very difficult to 
>>> get off and damned near impossible to get back on. I recently changed a 
>>> tube on the Squoqualmie Pass / C-18 wheels and it took me over 30 minutes 
>>> to muscle the tire on the rim. Frankly, I don't want to ride the bike, 
>>> because if I got a flat after dark, I honestly don't know if I'd be able to 
>>> replace the tube/tire in the field. Now, I've changed many, many flats and 
>>> have never had this issue with 'regular' tires (usually on OpenPro rims). 
>>> It usually takes me under a minute to get a new tube and tire back on.
>>>
>>> So...is a normal experience for these super supple casing tires? Or is 
>>> this a 'correlation not causation' situation and I've just been unlucky in 
>>> my choice of the rims I paired them with? Any advice would be appreciated! 
>>> Thanks guys!
>>>
>>> Eric
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Hunq with rack and v brakes?

[Bill Lindsay]

Rivendell has personal experience.  Call them up and ask for Mark.  

With wide tires and fenders, your only choice is full-sized V-brakes (not 
mini-V-brakes), which requires you also use long-cable-pull V-brake 
levers.  With full-size V-brakes you absolutely will not have to remove 
your fenders.  Ask Mark for a combination that works with your 32F.  

Bill Lindsay
El cerrito, CA

On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 12:15:53 PM UTC-8, Preston Smith wrote:
>
> Hey y'all!
>
> thinking about experimenting with v-brakes on my 29r hunqapillar, but it 
> doesn't really seem worth it if I have to change my rack or take off 
> fenders. Any one have any personal experience?
>
> Bike is  is set up with conti X king "2.4" (measure 2.1 on my synergy's), 
> 29r cascadia fenders, and a nitto 32f rack. 
>
> Thanks!!
> Preston 
> Olympia, WA
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Supple tires and rim fit trouble

[Bill Lindsay]

Eric

Do you have other tubeless-compatible wheelsets?  Among your 2, 3, 6 
tubeless compatible wheelsets, are your A-23s unusually or uniquely 
different from all the other tubeless compatible wheelsets in your stable?  

Technique-wise, the key is pushing the bead into the deep well in the 
middle of the rim.  If the bead is down in that well, then it's loose.  If 
the bead is up on the shelf of that well, then it's tight.  That's it.  
Hand a good mechanic one of your wheels and tell him to take off and 
re-install your tire.  If the mechanic curses, it's the rim.  If you are 
amazed at how easy a mechanic can make it look, try to learn from them.  
This is a good situation to bring a six-pack.  

Here's another suggestion.  Take the tire and tube completely off.  Set the 
tube aside.  Put one bead of the tire on the rim, being careful to have the 
bead down in the well.  It should be totally easy.  Pull the tire back off 
the rim with your hands.  That also should be totally easy.  This is what 
it feels like to get one bead on or off the rim when you've pushed the bead 
down into that well.  Get good at that.  That's how it should be for the 
other bead.  If you can't get good at that, your rim is oversized.  When 
you go to push the other bead on, the tube may get in your way and might 
make it more work to push the other bead down into the well.  Do it anyway, 
work that second bead down into that well, so it's loose and easy to 
install.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 12:26:38 PM UTC-8, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> Hi Bill-
>
> Yep, I used Stan's tubeless rim tape on the A23s as specified. I don't 
> remember them being quite as bad as the Sun rims, but they were still 
> difficult. I'm a pretty mediocre home mechanic and I'm sure I could improve 
> my technique, but I also rarely require more than on tire lever even on 
> tighter tires. On the Sun rims, it's just ridiculous. It feels like I'm 
> trying to stretch a 650b tire onto a 700c rim. If nobody else has run into 
> this problem, I'm beginning to think that there might be something wrong 
> with the rims. I did a bit of research and have come across similar 
> complaints with that rim. Sigh.
>
> Eric
>
>
> On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 3:16:51 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> A-23 rims are tubeless compatible.  This means you should/must use 
>> tubeless rim tape, even if you are running tubes.  Stans, or an equivalent 
>> thin, slippery rim tape is necessary, unless you want to make your life 
>> miserable.  What rim tape are you using?
>>
>> The very tightest tires take me about a minute to install with my bare 
>> hands.  The very tightest tires might require me to use one tire lever to 
>> remove in about 15 seconds.  I believe it's possible to have defective 
>> oversized rims that make it unnecessarily difficult to get tires on and 
>> off.  Have a good mechanic remove and install your tires with you watching, 
>> and decide whether you can make improvements to your technique.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 9:32:24 AM UTC-8, Eric Karnes wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi all-
>>>
>>> I have a question about the fit of supple tires and the way they fit on 
>>> rims.
>>>
>>> I've had only two experience with very supple tires. Pari-motos on 
>>> Velocity A-23s (650b) and most recently Compass Snoqualmie Passes on Sun 
>>> C-18s (700c). Both tires are so tight to the rim they're very difficult to 
>>> get off and damned near impossible to get back on. I recently changed a 
>>> tube on the Squoqualmie Pass / C-18 wheels and it took me over 30 minutes 
>>> to muscle the tire on the rim. Frankly, I don't want to ride the bike, 
>>> because if I got a flat after dark, I honestly don't know if I'd be able to 
>>> replace the tube/tire in the field. Now, I've changed many, many flats and 
>>> have never had this issue with 'regular' tires (usually on OpenPro rims). 
>>> It usually takes me under a minute to get a new tube and tire back on.
>>>
>>> So...is a normal experience for these super supple casing tires? Or is 
>>> this a 'correlation not causation' situation and I've just been unlucky in 
>>> my choice of the rims I paired them with? Any advice would be appreciated! 
>>> Thanks guys!
>>>
>>> Eric
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Clem Photos on Riv Website

[Joe Bernard]

I have a 52cm L and it's a great the-bike-you-ride-every-day bike. Stout but 
not dead feeling, smooth but still has a nice turn in. And the low stepover - 
especially when mounting a bike loaded down with gear and stuff - will make you 
wonder why you over rode bikes with that silly crossbar sittin' way up high. 
I've owned a stack of Rivs and I think this is one of the best frames they've 
ever done. 

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[RBW] Re: Clem Photos on Riv Website

[Belopsky]

yeah spec'd the same as the Clem L I have. kenda kwick

a loud and heavy tire but so be it

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Re: [RBW] Re: Supple tires and rim fit trouble

[Tim Gavin]

Eric-

I believe there were indeed a batch of CR-18s made several years ago that
were out of specification; the diameter was larger than 622 mm.  I don't
know if they were mis-labeled 630 mm (aka 27") rims or just bad quality
control.

Perhaps yours were from that batch?  Where and when did you get them?


In my experience, it's mostly about the rim.  Tubeless-ready rims have a
tighter fit and are harder to mount tires to.  For example, my Pari-Motos
are tougher to mount on my Pacenti PL-23 rims (tubeless-ready) than they
were on the previous Velocity Synergy rims.

Since the CR-18 isn't tubeless-ready, it has to be something else.

On Thu, Nov 30, 2017 at 2:26 PM, Eric Karnes  wrote:

> Hi Bill-
>
> Yep, I used Stan's tubeless rim tape on the A23s as specified. I don't
> remember them being quite as bad as the Sun rims, but they were still
> difficult. I'm a pretty mediocre home mechanic and I'm sure I could improve
> my technique, but I also rarely require more than on tire lever even on
> tighter tires. On the Sun rims, it's just ridiculous. It feels like I'm
> trying to stretch a 650b tire onto a 700c rim. If nobody else has run into
> this problem, I'm beginning to think that there might be something wrong
> with the rims. I did a bit of research and have come across similar
> complaints with that rim. Sigh.
>
> Eric
>
>
> On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 3:16:51 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> A-23 rims are tubeless compatible.  This means you should/must use
>> tubeless rim tape, even if you are running tubes.  Stans, or an equivalent
>> thin, slippery rim tape is necessary, unless you want to make your life
>> miserable.  What rim tape are you using?
>>
>> The very tightest tires take me about a minute to install with my bare
>> hands.  The very tightest tires might require me to use one tire lever to
>> remove in about 15 seconds.  I believe it's possible to have defective
>> oversized rims that make it unnecessarily difficult to get tires on and
>> off.  Have a good mechanic remove and install your tires with you watching,
>> and decide whether you can make improvements to your technique.
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 9:32:24 AM UTC-8, Eric Karnes wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi all-
>>>
>>> I have a question about the fit of supple tires and the way they fit on
>>> rims.
>>>
>>> I've had only two experience with very supple tires. Pari-motos on
>>> Velocity A-23s (650b) and most recently Compass Snoqualmie Passes on Sun
>>> C-18s (700c). Both tires are so tight to the rim they're very difficult to
>>> get off and damned near impossible to get back on. I recently changed a
>>> tube on the Squoqualmie Pass / C-18 wheels and it took me over 30 minutes
>>> to muscle the tire on the rim. Frankly, I don't want to ride the bike,
>>> because if I got a flat after dark, I honestly don't know if I'd be able to
>>> replace the tube/tire in the field. Now, I've changed many, many flats and
>>> have never had this issue with 'regular' tires (usually on OpenPro rims).
>>> It usually takes me under a minute to get a new tube and tire back on.
>>>
>>> So...is a normal experience for these super supple casing tires? Or is
>>> this a 'correlation not causation' situation and I've just been unlucky in
>>> my choice of the rims I paired them with? Any advice would be appreciated!
>>> Thanks guys!
>>>
>>> Eric
>>>
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[RBW] Re: Roadinis could be arriving any day now?

[Max S]

Tire clearance, 47 vs. 35 sans fenders, if I’m not mistaken?.. 

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[RBW] Re: Supple tires and rim fit trouble

[Eric Karnes]

Hi Bill-

Yep, I used Stan's tubeless rim tape on the A23s as specified. I don't 
remember them being quite as bad as the Sun rims, but they were still 
difficult. I'm a pretty mediocre home mechanic and I'm sure I could improve 
my technique, but I also rarely require more than on tire lever even on 
tighter tires. On the Sun rims, it's just ridiculous. It feels like I'm 
trying to stretch a 650b tire onto a 700c rim. If nobody else has run into 
this problem, I'm beginning to think that there might be something wrong 
with the rims. I did a bit of research and have come across similar 
complaints with that rim. Sigh.

Eric


On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 3:16:51 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> A-23 rims are tubeless compatible.  This means you should/must use 
> tubeless rim tape, even if you are running tubes.  Stans, or an equivalent 
> thin, slippery rim tape is necessary, unless you want to make your life 
> miserable.  What rim tape are you using?
>
> The very tightest tires take me about a minute to install with my bare 
> hands.  The very tightest tires might require me to use one tire lever to 
> remove in about 15 seconds.  I believe it's possible to have defective 
> oversized rims that make it unnecessarily difficult to get tires on and 
> off.  Have a good mechanic remove and install your tires with you watching, 
> and decide whether you can make improvements to your technique.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 9:32:24 AM UTC-8, Eric Karnes wrote:
>>
>> Hi all-
>>
>> I have a question about the fit of supple tires and the way they fit on 
>> rims.
>>
>> I've had only two experience with very supple tires. Pari-motos on 
>> Velocity A-23s (650b) and most recently Compass Snoqualmie Passes on Sun 
>> C-18s (700c). Both tires are so tight to the rim they're very difficult to 
>> get off and damned near impossible to get back on. I recently changed a 
>> tube on the Squoqualmie Pass / C-18 wheels and it took me over 30 minutes 
>> to muscle the tire on the rim. Frankly, I don't want to ride the bike, 
>> because if I got a flat after dark, I honestly don't know if I'd be able to 
>> replace the tube/tire in the field. Now, I've changed many, many flats and 
>> have never had this issue with 'regular' tires (usually on OpenPro rims). 
>> It usually takes me under a minute to get a new tube and tire back on.
>>
>> So...is a normal experience for these super supple casing tires? Or is 
>> this a 'correlation not causation' situation and I've just been unlucky in 
>> my choice of the rims I paired them with? Any advice would be appreciated! 
>> Thanks guys!
>>
>> Eric
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: DIY: Blow up a chain into two pieces

[Daniel M]

Deacon P, 

Sounds like you chose a cog on your cassette that was outboard of the 
position of your chainring in front, so the chainline itself was acting 
like a derailer trying to shift you into a bigger (inner) rear cog, which 
the chain was too short to accommodate and which your legs were plenty 
strong enough to annihilate. No doubt the ramps on the whatever-glide 
cassette were complicit in lifting the chain up to the bigger cog. 

I've done the same conversion - under duress, in the field. I was riding my 
old mountain bike on a trail in the forest near my parents' house, climbing 
a reasonably steep hill, when my chain got wedged in front. I suppose I was 
shifting to my granny and thought it had gone cleanly to the small ring, 
but the one thing I remember for sure was that I proceeded to pedal full 
force, felt a moment of binding and then BANG! I was sure I had broken the 
chain, but the chain and I were in fact strong enough to shear the rear 
derailer in two pieces right through the thickest part of the body! I guess 
the chain got jammed on the slack side in front and couldn't feed any more 
chain to the derailer, which continued to get pulled by the tensioned side 
of the chain. This bike did not have a U-brake (which had been responsible 
for most of  my previous occurrences of chain suck) but it is entirely 
likely that the chain and rings were worn out, underlubricated, and/or 
grimy from previous overlubrication.

Not wanting to push a disabled bike up a long hill home, I broke the chain 
and removed the rear derailer (which still had the chain fed through the 
pulleys), placed the chain on the middle ring in front, and stretched the 
chain to the middle of the cassette, hoping to find a magic gear in the 
middle that would fit an integer number of chain links with a reasonable 
all-around gearing. I found one that worked, used my link tool to shorten 
the chain, and put it back together (I think with a master link) as a 
singlespeed, which I proceeded to ride up the hill home. I was not yet much 
of a bike mechanic so I was quite proud of myself at the time. 

The chain held its position on the rear cassette for the short ride home, 
but I wonder if I had continued to ride it if it would eventually have 
wandered to an adjacent cog, and if so, in the slacker (i.e. 
non-destructive) direction, or in the direction you seem to have 
experienced.

I enjoy your ride stories and sardonic grins.

Daniel M
Berkeley, CA

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[RBW] Re: Supple tires and rim fit trouble

[Bill Lindsay]

A-23 rims are tubeless compatible.  This means you should/must use tubeless 
rim tape, even if you are running tubes.  Stans, or an equivalent thin, 
slippery rim tape is necessary, unless you want to make your life 
miserable.  What rim tape are you using?

The very tightest tires take me about a minute to install with my bare 
hands.  The very tightest tires might require me to use one tire lever to 
remove in about 15 seconds.  I believe it's possible to have defective 
oversized rims that make it unnecessarily difficult to get tires on and 
off.  Have a good mechanic remove and install your tires with you watching, 
and decide whether you can make improvements to your technique.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 9:32:24 AM UTC-8, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> Hi all-
>
> I have a question about the fit of supple tires and the way they fit on 
> rims.
>
> I've had only two experience with very supple tires. Pari-motos on 
> Velocity A-23s (650b) and most recently Compass Snoqualmie Passes on Sun 
> C-18s (700c). Both tires are so tight to the rim they're very difficult to 
> get off and damned near impossible to get back on. I recently changed a 
> tube on the Squoqualmie Pass / C-18 wheels and it took me over 30 minutes 
> to muscle the tire on the rim. Frankly, I don't want to ride the bike, 
> because if I got a flat after dark, I honestly don't know if I'd be able to 
> replace the tube/tire in the field. Now, I've changed many, many flats and 
> have never had this issue with 'regular' tires (usually on OpenPro rims). 
> It usually takes me under a minute to get a new tube and tire back on.
>
> So...is a normal experience for these super supple casing tires? Or is 
> this a 'correlation not causation' situation and I've just been unlucky in 
> my choice of the rims I paired them with? Any advice would be appreciated! 
> Thanks guys!
>
> Eric
>

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[RBW] Hunq with rack and v brakes?

[Preston Smith]

Hey y'all!

thinking about experimenting with v-brakes on my 29r hunqapillar, but it 
doesn't really seem worth it if I have to change my rack or take off fenders. 
Any one have any personal experience?

Bike is  is set up with conti X king "2.4" (measure 2.1 on my synergy's), 29r 
cascadia fenders, and a nitto 32f rack. 

Thanks!!
Preston 
Olympia, WA


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[RBW] Re: Clem Photos on Riv Website

[Doug H.]

How do you like your Clem L?

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Re: [RBW] Supple tires and rim fit trouble

[Tim Butterfield]

My Barlow Pass EL are fairly easy changing on the Velocity made Riv
standard wheelset on my AHH.

Tim

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[RBW] Re: Clem Photos on Riv Website

[Doug H.]

I have one ordered. Looking forward to my first Rivendell. 

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[RBW] Re: Clem Photos on Riv Website

[Paul Choi]

You should pull the trigger on this while they have your size. Would be a 
great Xmas gift. 

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[RBW] Re: Clem Photos on Riv Website

[Doug H.]

https://www.rivbike.com/collections/web-special-framesets-and-bicycles/products/clem-h-complete-grilver

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[RBW] Re: Clem Photos on Riv Website

[Paul Choi]

It looks like the same Kenda Kwick Seven.5 that came on my 52 Clem L. 
650b x 1.75 


On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 11:27:28 AM UTC-8, Doug H. wrote:
>
> There looks to be new photos of a Clem build on the Riv website. I can't 
> tell what kind of tires are on it and don't see that listed in the spec. 
> Can anyone tell?
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem Photos on Riv Website

[Belopsky]

Can you link to the direct photo?

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[RBW] Re: Clem Photos on Riv Website

[Doug H.]

It may be a Kenda Kwick...not sure.

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[RBW] Re: DIY: Blow up a chain into two pieces

[Garth]

Well gee .  . .  I laugh with you DP !  I've done my share of wacky things 
with a bike too.   

I don't own or ride a SS and never have even seen one, but just picturing 
what you describe I can see why you had no chance. 
For  SS, the chainline must be spot on(same plane if you will), if it is 
not the chain would go to where that perfect spot was without regard for 
anything, even the chain itself. 

With derailer and cassette, the derailer allows you to go "out of the 
bounds" of that perfect plane by using the springs and pulleys. Those cogs 
are even designed for ease of movement from cog to cog. A fixed gear cog is 
designed to keep it right where it is. 

So if you just take off a rear derailer , shorten the chain to the proper 
tension for a given cog, unless that cog is in the sweet spot it's gonna 
want to go there, again, without regard, and even helped by the fact that 
the cogs are designed to facilitate that movement !  Yeah, you were doomed 
before you began, a 2 wheel time bomb for when the chain wanted to move and 
it had nowhere to go and no length to accommodate it  BAM BAM BOOM 
!   

At least, this is my educated-by-what-I-know-not story called 
"rationalization/reason". 


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[RBW] Clem Photos on Riv Website

[Doug H.]

There looks to be new photos of a Clem build on the Riv website. I can't 
tell what kind of tires are on it and don't see that listed in the spec. 
Can anyone tell?

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[RBW] Re: FS: Jones H bend bar, Nitto Randonneur bar, Nitto Noodle Bar, Silver DT shifters, Brooks C17s saddle

[Philip Kim]

silver shifters are sold

On Tuesday, November 28, 2017 at 9:33:43 AM UTC-5, Philip Kim wrote:
>
> ibob xpost.
>
> Jones H Bend bar 
>  - $35 
> plus shipping
>
> Nitto Randonneur B135 
>  45cm at 
> drops, 39-40cm at hoods - $25 plus shipping
>
> Nitto Noodle 44cm - $30 plus shipping
>
> Silver shifters, ratchet friction, downtube 
>  - $25 
> shipped
>
> Brooks C17s Saddle (short) natural  
> - $95 
> shipped
>
> Nitto Pearl, 70mm reach, 26.0 clamp 
>  - $45 
> shipped
>
> All parts are almost new. Most of them have come off my fiance's bike 
> after i sold the frame. she probably rode her bike a handful of times.
>

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[RBW] Re: DIY: Blow up a chain into two pieces

[Philip Williamson]

Sounds like your chain line was bad? Small ring, maybe, and a middlin' cog? 
The larger cog caught the chain and levered it up and apart. Same chain 
length and a single cog in the right location should be fine. 
I use 9sp chains on my single/dingle/fixed bikes, and once I learned you 
can't use a pin tool to put them back together, I've had no issues. 

Philip
www.biketinker.com 

On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 10:23:06 AM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I may be wrong, Philip, but I think the error was in #2, using the 
> cassette without a derailer. The chain attempted to shift to a larger cog. 
> Pop! No idea why the Pow! happened though. Sardonic grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>

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Re: [RBW] Supple tires and rim fit trouble

[Patrick Moore]

That's very strange. My Elk Passes are loose enough that I can remove and
install them by hand, without a lever. My Furious Freds go on the Velocity
rims easily, although I do need a lever. The Parigi Roubaix, older model,
were indeed tight at first, and required concentrated effort with levers,
but after they stretched, not exceptionally tight at all.

Elk Passes on Sun Ringle EQ 21s and Sun M14As; FFs on the Velocity Blunt SS
rims.

On Thu, Nov 30, 2017 at 10:32 AM, Eric Karnes  wrote:

> Hi all-
>
> I have a question about the fit of supple tires and the way they fit on
> rims.
>
> I've had only two experience with very supple tires. Pari-motos on
> Velocity A-23s (650b) and most recently Compass Snoqualmie Passes on Sun
> C-18s (700c). Both tires are so tight to the rim they're very difficult to
> get off and damned near impossible to get back on. I recently changed a
> tube on the Squoqualmie Pass / C-18 wheels and it took me over 30 minutes
> to muscle the tire on the rim. Frankly, I don't want to ride the bike,
> because if I got a flat after dark, I honestly don't know if I'd be able to
> replace the tube/tire in the field. Now, I've changed many, many flats and
> have never had this issue with 'regular' tires (usually on OpenPro rims).
> It usually takes me under a minute to get a new tube and tire back on.
>
> So...is a normal experience for these super supple casing tires? Or is
> this a 'correlation not causation' situation and I've just been unlucky in
> my choice of the rims I paired them with? Any advice would be appreciated!
> Thanks guys!
>
> Eric
>
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[RBW] Re: DIY: Blow up a chain into two pieces

[dougP]

Step 3 often applies, and can be serious.  Fortunately, at step 7 you've 
got the whole thing in perspective.

Maybe this is why single speeds us a much wider chain than 6/7/8?  

dougP

On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 8:37:02 AM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> 1. Remove derailure in a fit of single speed euphoria because you were 
> doing other things and rather than put the gear shifter on you decided to 
> take it off because it’s coming off eventually anyway. 
> 2. Find a gear combo on the 9-speed cassette that allows proper tension on 
> the chain without a tensioner. 
> 3. Think how smart you are for 2. 
> 4. Ride. Climb a hill. Stand, because it’s a 60” gear on a steepish hill. 
> POP! POW! 
> 5. Laugh hysterically at the shards of chain on the ground. 
> 6. Realize how happy you are that happened on a hill, going slowly so the 
> Pop! Pow! wasn’t followed rapidly my Oof! Ow! 
> 7. Laugh hysterically at what a fool you have for a mechanic. 
>
> Grin. 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick 
>
> www.CredoFamily.org 
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org

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[RBW] Re: Supple tires and rim fit trouble

[dougP]

Eric:

The only supple tires I've tried were the Soma C-Lines.  My Atlantis has 
Mavic A-719 rims, and both the Somas and various Schwalbes have mounted 
easily by hand.  I think there's enough difference in rims that a tire that 
may be tight on one could be an easy install on another brand or style.  
Not a lot of experience with this but enough to have an opinion.  

Maybe "supple" tires need to fit tighter for some reason?  Why would that 
be?  

dougP

On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 9:32:24 AM UTC-8, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> Hi all-
>
> I have a question about the fit of supple tires and the way they fit on 
> rims.
>
> I've had only two experience with very supple tires. Pari-motos on 
> Velocity A-23s (650b) and most recently Compass Snoqualmie Passes on Sun 
> C-18s (700c). Both tires are so tight to the rim they're very difficult to 
> get off and damned near impossible to get back on. I recently changed a 
> tube on the Squoqualmie Pass / C-18 wheels and it took me over 30 minutes 
> to muscle the tire on the rim. Frankly, I don't want to ride the bike, 
> because if I got a flat after dark, I honestly don't know if I'd be able to 
> replace the tube/tire in the field. Now, I've changed many, many flats and 
> have never had this issue with 'regular' tires (usually on OpenPro rims). 
> It usually takes me under a minute to get a new tube and tire back on.
>
> So...is a normal experience for these super supple casing tires? Or is 
> this a 'correlation not causation' situation and I've just been unlucky in 
> my choice of the rims I paired them with? Any advice would be appreciated! 
> Thanks guys!
>
> Eric
>

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[RBW] Supple tires and rim fit trouble

[Deacon Patrick]

Mine have always been easy on, easy off, so I’m not any help. Rims: Atlas and 
A-719.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: DIY: Blow up a chain into two pieces

[Deacon Patrick]

I may be wrong, Philip, but I think the error was in #2, using the cassette 
without a derailer. The chain attempted to shift to a larger cog. Pop! No idea 
why the Pow! happened though. Sardonic grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Roadinis could be arriving any day now?

[tc]

Regarding Roadini vs Sam, for those who've ridden both, what's the main 
diff?  Roadini frame is ~$400 less than Sam, so that's obvious.  But 
geo-wise the 57 Roadini seems abt same as 58 Sam, the Roadini being a 
little less slack, but not much.  Sam I'm guessing is a little heavier, 
better suited for any mild off-roading.  Anything else?

On Sunday, October 15, 2017 at 3:21:34 PM UTC-4, Daniel D. wrote:
>
> Anxiously awaiting their arrival.  Got all my parts, excited for the 
> looming build.
>

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[RBW] Re: Lessons in Singlespeeding

[Christopher Murray]

Singlespeeding boils down to two things- fight it or enjoy it. It can be an 
incredibly miserable and frustrating experience if you bring rigid riding 
practices and techniques or it can be an enjoyable and rewarding experience if 
you go into it willing to learn and adapt. Do what feels right, walk, push 
yourself, pedal harder, pedal softer. And relax. 

Cheers!
Chris

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[RBW] Re: DIY: Blow up a chain into two pieces

[Philip Williamson]

All that sounds fine, up until 4b.
I've done similar by putting a nine speed chain back together with a chain 
tool instead of a master link. 

Philip
www.biketinker.com

On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 8:37:02 AM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> 1. Remove derailure in a fit of single speed euphoria because you were 
> doing other things and rather than put the gear shifter on you decided to 
> take it off because it’s coming off eventually anyway. 
> 2. Find a gear combo on the 9-speed cassette that allows proper tension on 
> the chain without a tensioner. 
> 3. Think how smart you are for 2. 
> 4. Ride. Climb a hill. Stand, because it’s a 60” gear on a steepish hill. 
> POP! POW! 
> 5. Laugh hysterically at the shards of chain on the ground. 
> 6. Realize how happy you are that happened on a hill, going slowly so the 
> Pop! Pow! wasn’t followed rapidly my Oof! Ow! 
> 7. Laugh hysterically at what a fool you have for a mechanic. 
>
> Grin. 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick 
>
> www.CredoFamily.org 
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org

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[RBW] Re: Pics of Jones SG 2.5 on Appaloosa

[Eric Karnes]

Great looking bike!

On Wednesday, November 29, 2017 at 8:56:51 PM UTC-5, Jay Connolly wrote:
>
>
> 
> I think the Jones Bar looks much better with the grips designed for it and 
> some tape to complement the frame. Pic below.
>
>
> On Wednesday, November 29, 2017 at 5:51:20 PM UTC-8, Ash [who works to 
> bike] wrote:
>>
>> Completely agree reg aesthetics.  It can't match the clean elegant look 
>> of Nitto Dirt Drop + ChocoNORM/Albas
>>
>> It keeps bothering me.  I try not to think about it :)
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, 28 November 2017 00:12:00 UTC-5, Stuart Lovinggood wrote:
>>>
>>> No doubt these are comfortable (I used to run Jones on my fat bike) but 
>>> I can't say I find the 2.5 aesthetically pleasing. That front loop looks 
>>> enormous. Maybe seeing them on more builds will normalize the look. 
>>>
>>> On Monday, November 27, 2017 at 5:39:59 PM UTC-8, Ash [who works to 
>>> bike] wrote:

 Like every other alt bar in I've ever seen/heard of, Jones Loop too was 
 in my shortlist.  I finally ordered one after catching up on the handlebar 
 thread started by Joe.  This is the 7th handlebar in 8 months.  Oh well, 
 think how much I'm saving because I'm not into modding cars ;)

 I needed it above the seat level, so first got SOMA Hi Rider stem.   
 Turned out it was way too higher than I would need.   VO Threadless Stem 
 Adaptor worked out perfect.  Given (a) Appa's top tube is quite long and 
 (b) Jones bar does not sweep as far back as Alba or Chco NORM, I needed a 
 short stem.  Dimension Threadless stem 31.8/70Mm/125 Degree fit the bill.

 Here are a few pictures for the curious ones.


  



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[RBW] Re: WTB Large Saddle Sack

[Michael Hechmer]

I have a carradice long strap that I haven't used since I bought a tandem.

Michael

On Monday, November 27, 2017 at 6:02:35 PM UTC-5, Birdman wrote:
>
> I missed out on Eric’s sale yesterday. Does anyone have a large saddlesack 
> in great condition they’d be willing to part with? Would prefer grey or 
> tan, but I’m open. 
> Thanks, 
> Isaac

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[RBW] Re: DIY: Blow up a chain into two pieces

[Michael Hechmer]

What could be better than a near disaster turned into a good story.
Michael

On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 11:37:02 AM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> 1. Remove derailure in a fit of single speed euphoria because you were 
> doing other things and rather than put the gear shifter on you decided to 
> take it off because it’s coming off eventually anyway. 
> 2. Find a gear combo on the 9-speed cassette that allows proper tension on 
> the chain without a tensioner. 
> 3. Think how smart you are for 2. 
> 4. Ride. Climb a hill. Stand, because it’s a 60” gear on a steepish hill. 
> POP! POW! 
> 5. Laugh hysterically at the shards of chain on the ground. 
> 6. Realize how happy you are that happened on a hill, going slowly so the 
> Pop! Pow! wasn’t followed rapidly my Oof! Ow! 
> 7. Laugh hysterically at what a fool you have for a mechanic. 
>
> Grin. 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick 
>
> www.CredoFamily.org 
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org

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[RBW] Supple tires and rim fit trouble

[Eric Karnes]

Hi all-

I have a question about the fit of supple tires and the way they fit on 
rims.

I've had only two experience with very supple tires. Pari-motos on Velocity 
A-23s (650b) and most recently Compass Snoqualmie Passes on Sun C-18s 
(700c). Both tires are so tight to the rim they're very difficult to get 
off and damned near impossible to get back on. I recently changed a tube on 
the Squoqualmie Pass / C-18 wheels and it took me over 30 minutes to muscle 
the tire on the rim. Frankly, I don't want to ride the bike, because if I 
got a flat after dark, I honestly don't know if I'd be able to replace the 
tube/tire in the field. Now, I've changed many, many flats and have never 
had this issue with 'regular' tires (usually on OpenPro rims). It usually 
takes me under a minute to get a new tube and tire back on.

So...is a normal experience for these super supple casing tires? Or is this 
a 'correlation not causation' situation and I've just been unlucky in my 
choice of the rims I paired them with? Any advice would be appreciated! 
Thanks guys!

Eric

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dynamo Hubs

[Tim Gavin]

Oh the Luxos has its drawbacks:

   - It's not as attractive as an Edelux
   - The plastic body seems less durable
   - Its beam is super wide but show plenty of notchy artifacts
   - Early production runs had quality problems (connectors separating from
   main board, water intrusion in handlebar switch), though these have been
   addressed in newer production runs (identifiable by USB charging "dongle"
   instead of socket)

But, considering its low price for a light and charging combo, I'm ok with
those drawbacks.  I have two Luxos U's, and each has been reliable for >2
years.  They've seen light rain, and I've definitely bonked into the one on
my 'cross bike while going over the handlebars.

On Thu, Nov 30, 2017 at 7:40 AM, mm fs  wrote:

> Why aren't people keener on the Luxos U light with integrated USB
> charger?  Seems more affordable than the Sinewave options.
>
>
> >>Sinewave beacon. Expensive, but the only real light/charger that I'm
> aware of.
>
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[RBW] Re: Dynamo Hubs

[mm fs]

Why aren't people keener on the Luxos U light with integrated USB charger?  
Seems more affordable than the Sinewave options.


>>Sinewave beacon. Expensive, but the only real light/charger that I'm 
aware of.

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[RBW] DIY: Blow up a chain into two pieces

[Deacon Patrick]

1. Remove derailure in a fit of single speed euphoria because you were doing 
other things and rather than put the gear shifter on you decided to take it off 
because it’s coming off eventually anyway.
2. Find a gear combo on the 9-speed cassette that allows proper tension on the 
chain without a tensioner.
3. Think how smart you are for 2.
4. Ride. Climb a hill. Stand, because it’s a 60” gear on a steepish hill. POP! 
POW!
5. Laugh hysterically at the shards of chain on the ground.
6. Realize how happy you are that happened on a hill, going slowly so the Pop! 
Pow! wasn’t followed rapidly my Oof! Ow!
7. Laugh hysterically at what a fool you have for a mechanic.

Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

www.CredoFamily.org
www.MindYourHeadCoop.org

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Re: [RBW] Tech Question: Do rear hubs have spacers?!

[Garth]

If you have been riding it all along with another wheel in there and it's been 
perfect, and this "new" wheel in question only is off center, then clearly that 
"new" wheel in question is the only issue here. 

If you have not been riding the bike before and acquired it, then by all means 
state that as then the frame could be an issue, I say "could" Since we the 
reader know nothing of the history prior to you posting this, we are getting a 
very limited picture. Also, where did the "new" wheel  come from ? Paint a 
picture in words, please ☺

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[RBW] Best Rack for a large saddlesack on a large frame?

[Ty Graham]

Here’s my 64cm Atlantis with a Large Saddlesack.

https://flic.kr/p/YqJFNA

I had to get a seatpost that brought the eyelets back, a VO blah. I also had to 
buy the longer (42cm?) struts for my Nitto. 
https://www.rivbike.com/products/nitto-rack-hardware-42cm-straight-struts-pair-20077

It’s been a really solid setup, but it was a pain to get it dialed in.

Another trick is to use the VO saddlebag eyelets that attach to the rails. That 
can get you a couple of cm of drop.

Ty Graham
Seattle

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Re: [RBW] Tech Question: Do rear hubs have spacers?!

[Kurt Manley]

Hey Mike, I have a truing stand and dishing tool you can use or I can help 
you with. It's easy. Text me if you want to use em.

~
Kurt

On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 5:35:26 AM UTC-8, Mike Williams wrote:
>
> But.. when I put in a wheel/ tire from another bike,  it sits right in 
> the middle.   Im hoping its a wheel issue and not a frame issue 
>
> Sent from my iPhone 
>
> > On Nov 29, 2017, at 11:02 PM, Ian A  
> wrote: 
> > 
> > It sounds like the drive side drop out is fouling on the drive side of 
> the axle, considering when the wheel is flipped everything lines up okay. 
> > 
> > IanA 
> > 
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Re: [RBW] Tech Question: Do rear hubs have spacers?!

[Jeremy Till]

I agree with Bill that the most likely culprit here is that the wheel is 
improperly dished, and that taking it to a good LBS so that they can check 
it with a dishing tool would be the next step. 

On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 6:46:29 AM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> I will modify Igor’s recommendation. He said “when in doubt take it to a 
> bike shop”. I say “when in doubt, have a good mechanic you trust look at 
> it”. Sadly there are a lot of people working at bike shops that aren’t very 
> good mechanics and there are a lot of excellent mechanics who have elected 
> to make a better living than you can earn at the bike shop. 
>
> If the observations you report are correct and accurate then the wheel is 
> out of dish, and both frames are out of alignment. The easiest explanation 
> for that situation is that your reported observations are not correct and 
> accurate, so we should get a cheap and accurate observation. 
>
> This is your next step: Take off the tire and take out the skewer and take 
> the rear wheel to a mechanic who has a dishing tool. He can check the dish 
> immediately for free.  If it’s out, see to it that it gets fixed. If it’s 
> good, then your Atlantis frame is suspect. We were using your Atlantis as a 
> dishing tool earlier, but your reported observations indicate that both the 
> wheel and the frame are out, which doesn’t seem likely. When the 
> observations don’t seem likely, I doubt the human making the observations. 
> 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Roadinis could be arriving any day now?

[Belopsky]

The only thing I have to add is I've heard great things about the R460. 
They build up really well and are solid.
I have a set being laced to Shimano 5800 hubs for my Gunnar

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Re: [RBW] Re: Best Rack for a large saddlesack on a large frame?

[Lee Legrand]

Hi Isaac,

Who makes your saddlebag?  Carradice sell saddlebag supports for their bags
if have thiers and should work with other saddlebags that have design and
sizing.  Rear racks will work if you think you need it because it is too
large.

On Thu, Nov 30, 2017 at 5:09 AM, Jay in Tel Aviv  wrote:

> I have the opposite issue.
> With my76 cm saddle height, the large saddle sack sits a little too close
> to the rack, pushing up the bottom of the bag in the middle and wasting
> space.
> Be glad you have the room.
>
> Jay
>
> On Wednesday, November 29, 2017 at 8:23:51 PM UTC+2, Wally Estrella wrote:
>>
>> I can get a pic a med & lg Saddlesack atop a Pletscher rack on my 64
>> Atlantis.  Give me a day or so.  Might even be tonight.  I'll post it up on
>> IG and tag you on it.
>>
>> CHEERS!
>> Wally "sailing a DTT Atlantis on any day is the Sea of Tranquility" in
>> Maine
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, November 28, 2017 at 9:13:05 PM UTC-5, Birdman wrote:
>>>
>>> Hey bunch,
>>>
>>> I'm building up a 65cm Double TT Atlantis (yay, dream bike!).  I'd like
>>> to use a large saddlesack for short tours and wonder what rack support
>>> might be best for a large frame.  I was planning to use a 33R large rear
>>> rack before I decided on a saddlesack, but now I wonder how well it will
>>> work with the large frame, my 95 pbh, and subsequent saddle height. From
>>> pictures, it looks like the saddlesack will need to attach to the saddle
>>> with a rack high enough and close enough to the seat tube to support the
>>> bag.  Maybe there's more wiggle room and adjustability with the R14 rack?
>>> Anyway, I thought I'd tap the collective wisdom here before calling Riv
>>> HQ.  Any thoughts? Am I over thinking this?
>>>
>>> Isaac
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Tech Question: Do rear hubs have spacers?!

[Bill Lindsay]

I will modify Igor’s recommendation. He said “when in doubt take it to a bike 
shop”. I say “when in doubt, have a good mechanic you trust look at it”. Sadly 
there are a lot of people working at bike shops that aren’t very good mechanics 
and there are a lot of excellent mechanics who have elected to make a better 
living than you can earn at the bike shop. 

If the observations you report are correct and accurate then the wheel is out 
of dish, and both frames are out of alignment. The easiest explanation for that 
situation is that your reported observations are not correct and accurate, so 
we should get a cheap and accurate observation.

This is your next step: Take off the tire and take out the skewer and take the 
rear wheel to a mechanic who has a dishing tool. He can check the dish 
immediately for free.  If it’s out, see to it that it gets fixed. If it’s good, 
then your Atlantis frame is suspect. We were using your Atlantis as a dishing 
tool earlier, but your reported observations indicate that both the wheel and 
the frame are out, which doesn’t seem likely. When the observations don’t seem 
likely, I doubt the human making the observations. 

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Re: [RBW] Dynamo Hubs

[Tim Gavin]

Most phones still depend at least partly on cellular to get a GPS position,
and that uses up a lot of battery.  Passive GPS tracking uses a bit less
power than an active GPS map, but it still wears the battery down.
Bin Chen, I doubt any dynamo charger solution could keep up if you have
power-hungry apps running, and I highly doubt any could do it while also
powering a light.


The Luxos U is the least expensive solution, since it includes both light
and USB charger.  But it may not have the throughput of a separate
charger/light combo, especially one wired with a switch to cut out the
light during the day.

The Luxos U can trickle charge a phone  with the lamp turned off.  My Luxos
U can top my iPhone 6 off from 20% to full in about 40-50 miles, if the
phone isn't running any apps or music.  If Strava is running, it takes
twice as long (or is half as effective).  If I have the phone on my
handlebars with Strava pulled up, the Luxos U keeps battery status quo but
doesn't gain any charge.


your amperage may vary

On Thu, Nov 30, 2017 at 7:06 AM, Jeff Lesperance 
wrote:

> I'm not sure what you consider the cutoff for modern day iphone vs. older
> iphone. I've been using a Sinewave Cycles Revolution (
> https://www.sinewavecycles.com/products/sinewave-revolution) to charge a
> few recent iPhone versions, 4s - 6s, without a problem.
>
> If I'm using my phone for GPS, keeping the screen on and phone active near
> 100% of the time, and I want to run my headlight at the same time, I need
> to be going at a consistent upbeat pace to keep pace with the battery drain
> rate - in the semi-urban and lumpy area that I live, this can be a
> challenge and all I end up doing is slowing the drain rate. If I keep my
> headlight off, no problem charging the phone at all, or, if I run my
> headlight but don't have anything intensive running it's also not usually a
> problem to charge the phone vs. just staying even with battery drain rate.
>
> When I've been out on tour, I do tend to charge a battery pack at some
> point during the day vs. charging the phone, and then just use the battery
> pack as needed to top up the phone.
>
> -Jeff
> Silver Spring, MD
>
> On Wed, Nov 29, 2017 at 11:30 PM, Bin Chen  wrote:
>
>> Anyone have a reliable solution for actually powering a modern day
>> iPhone? Seems all the stuff out there works for older iPhones at best? Or I
>> need to buy an interim pack that will change it to DC current. Not sure if
>> technology has caught up or I just need to suck it up and get what’s out
>> there.
>>
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Re: [RBW] Tech Question: Do rear hubs have spacers?!

[Belopsky]

When in doubt, take to a bike shop

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Re: [RBW] Tech Question: Do rear hubs have spacers?!

[Mike Williams]

But.. when I put in a wheel/ tire from another bike,  it sits right in the 
middle.   Im hoping its a wheel issue and not a frame issue

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 29, 2017, at 11:02 PM, Ian A  wrote:
> 
> It sounds like the drive side drop out is fouling on the drive side of the 
> axle, considering when the wheel is flipped everything lines up okay. 
> 
> IanA
> 
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[RBW] Re: Lessons in Singlespeeding

[Doug H.]

Deacon Patrick,
Reading your post took my mind back to childhood and riding my Mongoose 
(not a department store brand at the time) single speed BMX bike up and 
down hills in the woods and in my neighborhood. Simplicity, reliance on 
legs, arms, and lungs was what it was about. I thought less about my 
bicycle and more about the task at hand, be it racing or just getting where 
I needed to go. I agree that my bikes now are more distracting. Thanks for 
another thought-inducing post.
Doug

On Wednesday, November 29, 2017 at 9:27:52 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> With several people interested in single speeding I thought I’d start this 
> thread for tips and lessons we’ve learned single speeding (and fixed too, 
> as I’ll soon be diving in). What have you learned, or are learning?
>
> I cover a lot of bits I learned here, in my review of the Quickbeam: 
> https://thegrid.ai/withabandon/quickbeam-sightings
>
> As I’ve been riding exclusively single speed now the last few weeks (and 
> my Hunqapillar is single speed, just using the 60” gear in the cassette as 
> that was the one that worked), I’ve again been impressed with how different 
> the mind/body/heart/soul set is with zero options but pedaling.
>
> With gears, the mind is always watchful and mindful of cadence and asking 
> the question “is it time to shift?” and “will this hill necessitate a 
> shift?” None of that nonsense. Me legs are me gears.
>
> I was good at being relaxed pedaling in a certain RPM range, and I shifted 
> to stay in that.  I “needed” more gear range when the terrain became 
> steeper because otherwise I was out of that range.
>
> Single speeding has taught me to relax from extremely slow cadence 
> pedaling to extremely high cadence. I’ve learned to climb with an 
> unweighted seated position, doing repeated one-legged squats, my weight 
> pushing down on the pedals to assist, my arms pulling on the bars to 
> assist. Yet it is soft and easy. Anaerobic work at an aerobic pace. It 
> feels amazing.
>
> Fast cadences feel a lot like running barefoot (and I expect fixed with 
> increase this in many ways) — floating along, limpid and lithe, riding a 
> rail as circles turn beneath me (this feeling is true all the time, 
> actually, but more so at higher cadences for me).
>
> Ride till you can’t, walk till you can.
>
> Obey this and the amount of time you spend walking will decrease steadily 
> and surprisingly as your aerobic fitness increases. What is “can’t”? For 
> me, it is when I am no longer breathing fairly relaxed through my nose (I 
> make exceptions to this when I want to push myself, or for short, steep 
> climbs).
>
> Intentionally ride the wrong of your two gears, both too high and too low. 
> You will learn a lot.
>
> The one geared bike is an amazing teacher, but it requires humility to 
> learn from it. A deraileur gets in the way of this learning.
>
> Most of all, enjoy and ride with abandon! Grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.CredoFamily.org
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>

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Re: [RBW] Dynamo Hubs

[Jeff Lesperance]

I'm not sure what you consider the cutoff for modern day iphone vs. older
iphone. I've been using a Sinewave Cycles Revolution (
https://www.sinewavecycles.com/products/sinewave-revolution) to charge a
few recent iPhone versions, 4s - 6s, without a problem.

If I'm using my phone for GPS, keeping the screen on and phone active near
100% of the time, and I want to run my headlight at the same time, I need
to be going at a consistent upbeat pace to keep pace with the battery drain
rate - in the semi-urban and lumpy area that I live, this can be a
challenge and all I end up doing is slowing the drain rate. If I keep my
headlight off, no problem charging the phone at all, or, if I run my
headlight but don't have anything intensive running it's also not usually a
problem to charge the phone vs. just staying even with battery drain rate.

When I've been out on tour, I do tend to charge a battery pack at some
point during the day vs. charging the phone, and then just use the battery
pack as needed to top up the phone.

-Jeff
Silver Spring, MD

On Wed, Nov 29, 2017 at 11:30 PM, Bin Chen  wrote:

> Anyone have a reliable solution for actually powering a modern day iPhone?
> Seems all the stuff out there works for older iPhones at best? Or I need to
> buy an interim pack that will change it to DC current. Not sure if
> technology has caught up or I just need to suck it up and get what’s out
> there.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Roadinis could be arriving any day now?

[Jay in Tel Aviv]

I have the same rim on my front dyno-wheel.
Any issues? I've had mine for about a year and really like it.

Jay

On Wednesday, November 29, 2017 at 10:51:13 PM UTC+2, Nels Sorenson wrote:
>
> Thanks Rich,
> Those are DT Swiss R460 rims: 23mm outside, 18mm inside.
> Nels
>
> On Wednesday, November 29, 2017 at 12:01:45 PM UTC-8, RichS wrote:
>
>> Nels, your Roadini looks great! What brand are the rims and how wide are 
>> they (outside width).
>>
>> Tim, thanks for those revealing pictures of the tire clearance on your 
>> former Roadeo. Surprised you could fit a 38mm wide tire between the chain 
>> stays. I guess the Open Pro rims are what. . . 20mm outside width?
>>
>> I’ve been building a Roadeo and max tire I can fit between the chain 
>> stays is  a 35mm Pasela on a 22.5mm Sun rim.
>>
>> Best regards,
>> Richard
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Nov 29, 2017, at 2:54 PM, R Shannon  wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Nov 29, 2017, at 12:43 PM, Nels Sorenson  wrote:
>>
>> Here are some updated pics of current iteration Grilver Roadini.  I'm 
>> liking the Berthoud saddle and wider tires/rims.  Ride is smoother, less 
>> nervous and still fast with the Jack Browns.
>>
>> On Wednesday, November 29, 2017 at 5:34:46 AM UTC-8, Tim Gavin wrote:
>>>
>>> It looks like Centaur is new this summer, so maybe it's just not widely 
>>> available yet.
>>>
>>> I can't see myself buying new Campagnolo, but I respect their quality 
>>> and that they keep making a couple silver gruppos.  My Riv (97 Road 
>>> Standard) is still on its original Racing Triple BB and crankset (with 
>>> newer rings).
>>>
>>> On Tue, Nov 28, 2017 at 8:37 PM, Belopsky  wrote:
>>>
 The Centaur, that is. Veloce 10speed is still relatively easy to find, 
 and the Potenza group as well.
 Veloce, for instance: 
 https://www.raceviewcycles.com/campagnolo-veloce-groupset-2015-10-speed-silver?language=en=USD

 Sometime last winter/spring/summer I saw the Veloce groupset for ~370 
 which was a great deal IMO

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>>>
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>>
>> <84F5D1A4-BDCC-451B-95B8-1740B7D2AC31.JPG>
>>
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[RBW] Re: Best Rack for a large saddlesack on a large frame?

[Jay in Tel Aviv]

I have the opposite issue.
With my76 cm saddle height, the large saddle sack sits a little too close 
to the rack, pushing up the bottom of the bag in the middle and wasting 
space.
Be glad you have the room.

Jay

On Wednesday, November 29, 2017 at 8:23:51 PM UTC+2, Wally Estrella wrote:
>
> I can get a pic a med & lg Saddlesack atop a Pletscher rack on my 64 
> Atlantis.  Give me a day or so.  Might even be tonight.  I'll post it up on 
> IG and tag you on it.
>
> CHEERS! 
> Wally "sailing a DTT Atlantis on any day is the Sea of Tranquility" in 
> Maine
>
>
> On Tuesday, November 28, 2017 at 9:13:05 PM UTC-5, Birdman wrote:
>>
>> Hey bunch,
>>
>> I'm building up a 65cm Double TT Atlantis (yay, dream bike!).  I'd like 
>> to use a large saddlesack for short tours and wonder what rack support 
>> might be best for a large frame.  I was planning to use a 33R large rear 
>> rack before I decided on a saddlesack, but now I wonder how well it will 
>> work with the large frame, my 95 pbh, and subsequent saddle height. From 
>> pictures, it looks like the saddlesack will need to attach to the saddle 
>> with a rack high enough and close enough to the seat tube to support the 
>> bag.  Maybe there's more wiggle room and adjustability with the R14 rack?  
>> Anyway, I thought I'd tap the collective wisdom here before calling Riv 
>> HQ.  Any thoughts? Am I over thinking this?
>>
>> Isaac
>>
>

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