Also see NITTOs own rack page for details:
http://nitto-tokyo.sakura.ne.jp/carrier-E.html
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Also there is a Berthoud sidepulls rack but I would not use one per Tony
DeFillipos post about the design flaw that appears to be a safety hazard?
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See here:
http://nitto-tokyo.sakura.ne.jp/carrier-E.html
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Side pull bike front racks:
Marks Rack- double adjustable strut tabs, light mount tab in front. 4.4lb.
Weight limit with one strut setup. ~6lbs. with two strut setup as told by RBW
employee. No fender mount point. Strut tab mount to brake bolt direct requires
no bending.
M18- one adjustable
Even below 50F?
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Wonder how they compare in weight and functionality to the Deore hubs
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I signed up for the 100. But we got there late and were concerned about not
making the rest stops, so we just did the 70 mile route.
*The weather and clothes:*
The weather was about 70's-90's. Hot and humid. Bright blue skies with some
clouds made for a beautiful day. I wore a
Wow!
That sounds like an impossibly low price, unless they were clearance and
came without hardware. Did they come with hardware?
I see they have some 700c fenders there for 44$?!?!?!?!?!
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Next in the series.
What works for you in downpours on long rides?
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Matt,
BQ studies tire construction to determine which designs give the rider the
fastest and most comfortable ride quality.
It is alleged that the speed percentages measured in the BQ studies (like the
slowest tire tested was ~20% slower than the fastest tire tested., iirc) adds
up over long
I'm thinking of a step by step:
1. Tension saddle
2. Proof hide top.
Wait a day or so and see how it feels. If that doesn't work:
3. Tension more.
If that doesn't work:
4. Imperialise it with a cutout, and see if that flattens out the top.
If that doesn't work:
5. Install new Imperial saddle.
6.
Get a basket that doesn't break...
A Berthoud front bag in the largest size they make! Plus a Compass Nitto stem
devalued and you are ready to roll.
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Decaleur i mean
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Get a basket that doesn't break...
A Berthoud front bag in the largest size they make! Plus a Compass Nitto stem
decaleur and you are ready to roll.
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Clayton. If they stop making suspension posts you could try a sprung saddle.
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Riv sells MKS dust caps. At least they used to. Check there to get some.
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Compass sells 5 and 6 speed cassettes.
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What'ya gonna be riding on?
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It's good to have a new name.
Then less confusion on which "Sam" you are looking at in a given "FS:"
listing. The long stay wider tire version or the 42mm tire max version.
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It's good to have a new name.
Then less confusion on which "Sam" you are looking at in a given "FS:"
listing. The long stay wider tire version or the 42mm tire max version.
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Sounds like a capital day of riding!!!
Silence that noise, good man!
Try here for suggestions:
http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/keepitquiet.html
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Once a tire goes into the 60$+ range, it starts to hurt.
I will say that Compass has been very fair, even dropping their prices as the
euro and yen have changed, I think for their Schmidt stuff this year and also
their tires last year.
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Thanks for the advice, y'all.
I guess I'll have to tension, proofhide and see what happens. maybe lace if
need to.
@Michael: That is an interesting idea. Thudbuster. Then I could just get a
slotted cambium and not have to worry about having to only get a sprung
saddle. Plus the Cambium removes
Coasting uphill outside of Mamers?!?!
I asked my local Rando club if anyone noticed it. Will report back if any did.
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I'm holding out for a super light tubing, standard tube width, low trail, canti
brake, 650b, carbon brush in the headrube, seat tube taillight braze-on,
wireless front dropouts, Rivrandobike.
They have done everything but, I think, so far.
MTN, all road, road, touring, country, single speed,
Rivet doesn't make sprung saddles, or I would try one. I emailed them about
it. They don't like the weight of a sprung saddle, and they didn't get the
appeal of sprung.
I like sprung saddles. Just wish the leather shape wouldn't change so
easily.
Brooks is coming out with a Cambium type
I like Compass and GB tires. I have never gone EL on them though.
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So I have only had this saddle for 10 months and I have divots where the
sit bones sit to the point of feeling the rear of the frame dig into my
rear end when I ride now.
People say these saddles last for 20 years or so. But mine is becoming
unrideable at this point.
Any advice?
It is a
How many is bulk and are you getting a discounted price?
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Well, they gotta know there's a big market for it. Lotsa lugged Rando builders
around these days in the USA. Randonneuring seems to be exploding in the USA. I
think in this years PBP, the USA had more riders than any other country except
France. Riv could go Taiwan or Toyo and undercut the
I'm still deciding on if I like Loup 38 or Cypres 32 650bGB/Compass tires
before I buy a bunch for the long term. Hetres ride great, but don't allow
fender clearances I am comfortable with on my Sam or Bleriot. I think the 38
and 32s ride just as nice. Less weight. Easier to get between the
Patrick, does your Schmidt headlight wire run inside the front rack tube? Got a
pic of where it pops out? Nice racks!!
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Wow. The GB/Compass prices are getting scary. Don't know what I'll do for fast
650b tires if they go up much more.
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I know some of you were talking about it. Just wondering how you made out.
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Clear chain stay protector
Roll of twine
Silver shifter extra metal and plastic washers
Schwalbe SV 12 650b tubes
Pleatscher one leg kickstand and rubber foot
Brass ferrules
Gray brake housings cables kit
Gray shifter housing and cables kit
Spanninga fender taillight
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Just mounted by P45 to rear of fork crown.
This brought the flap obviously too close to ground.
Cut about 1/2 off. Now three fingers from the ground. Is this too close? Will
it result in it being a stick scooper?
Next step is probably just remove the flap.
How close to the ground is yours?
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On average would you say?
Urban, suburban, or rural?
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Once a cop told me it was an 18% grade. So I wanted to see what it was
like. People sometimes come out there and time themselves on it. Sometimes
I see them with some kind of timing contraption on a tripod at the base and
the cops close the road for them.
First one was the 18% grade. I got up
1. Compass/Bicycle Quarterly articles/blog state that tires will get an mm
or two wider with use/time, iirc.
2. They state that rim width plays a role in how wide the tire will
empuffen,
3. They also state that handling on 700c bikes degrades with any tire wider
than 35mm. They believe
My Father-in-law had that kinda kickstand back in China.
I don't think I'd like the weight of that kstand either.
China's got great ideas for baby seats and umbrella holders, too.
But in Canton China, seems like people are just cruising to work/school.
Nobody cares about average speeds and I
I don't remember what he attributes it too.
I just remember him writing on the blog that, for 700c bikes, he felt that
handling gets worse when the tire with exceeds 35mm, while 650b bikes keep
their nimble handling with tires wider than that.
I am pretty sure he used the term degrades, but
PS- it was my front loaded Bleriot.
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Thinking of doing the 70 ride.
Is it a lot of 6+% grades, or more tame than that? I think Joan and Steve
are involved in this ride somehow, or were in times past. Maybe they would
know.
Anyway, I'll be keeping an eye out for Riv's, like I always do on organized
rides!
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So I rode my first 18% grade today and found myself poppin' a wheelie by
accident.
It was hard to get into a comfy position and just get into a rhythm.
Do you lean forward a lot, into hoods, or sit up more on the tops with
drops to get into the zone on those kinda grades?
The only rhythm I
I'd say silver if you plan to use silver racks. The SKS P45's in silver
looks awesome together with the silver color of my NITTO rack.
Also, try to look at pics of a cream fendered bike from the rear. You may
think it is too much cream color from that angle.
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If anyone is interested, I might be willing to sell my 650b
Synergy/Velocity hub front and rear wheelset that came stock on my Blue Sam
from RBW. Comes with Shimano 8 speed cassette on it. Got the bike in 2013.
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My front Tektro R559 on my Sam won't snap open to quick release.
Works fine for normal braking and in normal mode.
But calipers won't pop open when I open the QR lever, like it's supposed to.
The rear brake works fine.
I lubed all pivot points and cleaned off some gunk from the spring, but still
Wonder if single leggers do this to frames, too.
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Thanks for the suggestions.
I hope I don't have to replace the housing...undoing all that shellaced
bartape and twine would be a bummer.
Now that you mention it, last week I was lifting my bars all the way out to
re-grease the shaft after 2 years of unmoved placement in the steerer tube,
and I
What?!?!? Some of their prices are like wayy cheaper than what
stuff costs in the US.
I wonder how they can sell Pearl stems for only 60-something bucks.
Maybe no import fees, like a USA vender has?
Sometimes I wonder if places that sell stuff for so cheap are selling off
Happy Anniversary!!!
That's great you have a spouse who likes bikes, too!
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1. Perhaps integration is the key.
A bike that has a kickstand built into the frame in such a way that it
doesn't damage anything to have the kickstand used with or without the bike
loaded up to 100 lbs.
Since this means tourers, I don't think the consumers would mind a built in
k-stand since
Well if you guys would stop riding off with the two letters open for usual
effect...
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Thanks, Arthur!
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PS- these are the standard casing version.
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170lb rider in an unloaded Sam.
45psi? I want as much Cush as possible but without squirm in cornering.
What do you run yours at?
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Also they are 650b
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The kind with lots of sudden, deep, and uneven ruts, loose, big gravel
chunks, roots, and rocks that stick up 6 inches from the dirt that
your front tire will slam into when you can't see them coming because the
shade is so dark?
Don't wanna trash my Synergies or bend my fork blades doing
Arthur:
Which size did you get? Looks like they have a lot of sizes online.
I'm thinking of using a piece of scrap inner tube to line it with.
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Compass just announced tubeless compatible tires in 26, 650b, and 700c
Check it out on the BQ blog.
https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/08/12/compass-tires-and-tubeless/
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Wow! A place to test ride Rivs that's not too far from home!
And avoid shipping costs for the smaller stuff!
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bike123.com has a complete Betty for sale. Call them to verify size.
http://bike123.com/used_bikes/used_sbikesview.php?ID=4269
They are well known in the Baltimore/DC area as College Park Bikes and
Mount Airy Bikes. Used to be Riv dealers.
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To find a SO/Quickbeam:
I'd call RBW and ask.
Sometimes they put some discontinued models for sale on the site that they dug
out of storage, if I remember right. They just might have one around.
If that fails, I'd start calling around Harris Cyclery, Peter White Cycles, and
If I want to try DT shifters on my blue Sam, how do I do that without tearing
up the paint on the DT with a boss clamp?
Also, is there some formula to calculate where to place the bosses on the DT?
Too bad the frame didn't come with bosses.
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For those of you who rode back on the days of 39/50 and sub30T rear 5 and 6
speed cassettes:
1. Would you go back to a sub-30T 5-speed cassette if you could, now that you
have ridden with 30+ T cogs in modern cassettes?
2. Was anyone riding 30+t cogs back in the day? Seems like sub30 was the
That's a cool idea to eliminate a FD and two chainrings from the front end!!
Weight savings and no left hand shifting either!
I bet that cassette big ring looks like a discus from the non-drive side of the
bike.
Telephone at Shimano HQ:
Brrriiinggg
Shimano rep: hello, stockist from
The only downside I can think of is that you may not be able to friction shift
over an 11-speed cassette well if the spacing is narrow.
Wonder what the weight savings balance is, though?
-1 silver shifter and pod
-1 cable
-1 ferrule
-1 housing
-1 front derailer/adapter
-1 to 2 chainrings
-1 lube
College Park Bikes?
It's in College Park, MD. Not too far from Rockville. Not the closest either.
But they are a Rivish shop.
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Thanks for the kind offer, Rich.
Does the spacer have cutouts for the cassette rivets?
The cassette has 3 rivets and wondering if I can find a spacer with cutouts so
I don't have to grind off the rivets.
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Congrats! Pics, please!
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Blue 52s were made, too, if that's a possibility.
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I'd ask Jan Heine of Compass Cycles/ Bicycle Quarterly.
He's been riding a lot in japan and I think he's been thru Hokkaido. He writes
about bike shops in Japan too. Maybe he can recommend someone:
hein...@earthlink.net
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Or call him at Compass Cycles in Seattle Washington USA at: 206-789-0424
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I don't put alot of truck in science anymore. Too much conflicting science.
Food and nutrition being one example.
We like to think we've got it all figured out but remember, it wasn't too long
ago we thought the world was flat and bleeding people cured ailments.
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Maybe I am ignorant about racing rules, but I am not understanding why it was
unsportsmanlike to attack when Froome stopped. Noone else stops and waits when
other people crash or have to stop in the TdeF, so what made it wrong? Losing
due to a mechanical, crash, or otherwise happens in races.
Brooks told me a sprung Cambium type saddle is planned for 2016.
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For warm weather rain riding, I'm almost at the point where I want to wear Keen
waterproof sandals and just get wet everywhere else. Throw a shower cap on the
Brooks and just change clothes when I get home. Though I will say that so far
my Gore Tech shoe covers worked well on the last rain ride
Maybe there is a perception that the car engine's capabilities can be easily
boosted to compensate for the car fender and lights weight more easily than a
bike engine can be improved, making weight more of a critical penalty to the
bike engine than to a car engine?
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Fenders are not 100% effective but very close! I like my fenders a lot.
Stuff still blows out the sides of fenders (both on my Longboards and Honjos)
and can still get on your feet and stays and fork blades. Not much, but you can
see traces after riding through dirt/mud areas.
But my frames
The pro cycling people must have very good reasons to ride what they ride. I
don't think these people are dummies.
While I am not enamoured with them, I have respect for people who can go 20+mph
average speeds and pump out sustained 400+ watts on mountain climbs for 40+
minutes at a time. They
What can be put on bolt heads. I find that they get rusty.
I ride my Sam in the winter. Full Fenders. Components seem to be fine but seems
like the chain and bolt heads get rusty. Frame still looks great.
But I usually don't ride in the snow/ wet in the winter. Just on dry days when
the salt
Wear Navy blue or black pants only while riding. Not joking.
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What are the diffs, besides the price and colors, between the PC-830, 850,
and 870 SRAM chains?
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But the link length and widths are the same? Pin/plate spacing?
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Congrats on the new bike!!
Congrats also on the SUNXCD derailers.
I have the rear one on my 8-speed Bleriot.
How do you like the SUN FD? Does it work well with your 9-speed(8?)
cassette setup?
I might get a SUN FD for both my bikes next time I need to change.
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I have a 53.
I'll try to remember to measure when I get home tonight and report back.
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I like this method. Very easy. They even tell you at which link to cut the
chain. Worked great on my Sam when I went to 8-speed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZHbfblJzaw
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On my 53 Bleriot, measured at about the middle of the tubes.:
TT-29mm= 1.14
DT=32mm = 1.25
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Here's a Rivideo showing a full build bike packing video. Very helpful for
anyone shipping a bike.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQw64fkmWjM
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1. 7-speed has a little wider spacing between cogs, which will hopefully help
me friction shift better than I have done in 10,9,and 8.
2. Also, I have found that I hardly ever use the 11 tooth cog on my SRAM
8-speed cassette, (11-13-15-17-20-23-26-30), so I am interested in trying the
silver
What would be cool is a 5-speed in the back and a double crankset up front like
in the olden days. But my legs can't power that, and I don't know how anyone
did back in the pre-1980's era.
I live in rolling-to-hilly terrain and it's all I can do to get down the road
in my 36T middle ring with
Hi y'all,
Want to try a Shimano 7speed cassette with tight spacing I like on my Blue Sam.
How can I tell if I need a 4.5 spacer or not with my freehub?
It's an RBW stock 650b wheelset Velocity hub with a Shimano compatible freehub
that came stock with 9 speed cassette, then I went to 8-speed.
Three more questions:
1. Will using the spacer mess with my chainline, and does it matter?
Also:
2. Will I have to reset my limit screws because of the 4.5mm spacer? No
biggie. Just want to know.
3. How do I get around those rivets on the back of the cassette that won't
allow the spacer to sit
OK, so last two questions:
1. Will I have to reset my limit screws because of the 4.5mm spacer? No
biggie. Just want to know.
2. How do I get around those rivets on the back of the cassette that won't
allow the spacer to sit flush onto the freehub? Grind them off?
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I also live in MD. But alas... My frame is a 55! I don't think I would sell
though. I am in the Ellicott City area if you want to do some riding!
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Very interesting comparisons and ideas about effects on speed and handling.
Wonder what would happen if you put ultralight 650c rims and tires on your bike
to make for light wheel weight and see if they spin up faster.
Or, perhaps, a frame designed for 700c won't work its best with another
An alternate suggestion if the stem swap doesn't fix it:
I used B17's and started to get low back pain and after a year of
struggling to figure out why it hurt when I rode, I got a sprung Flyer
saddle, and that nullified all the road shock and my back doesn't hurt
anymore. It was the road
Keep your B17 on the bike.
Go to bicyclebolts.com and buy and install their security seat post bolt, and
security saddle clamp bolts.
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Try your LBS. some of them have a thermopedic memory foam type bench you can
sit on that leaves sit bone indents in the material for you to measure.
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Yes, they will install fenders for you if you want, for a fee.
At least they did in 2013.
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