This is how I use my 2 bikes with wide/low. The commuter has the big ring
on a triple center with bashguard on outer, the rando is 9 x 2 but the
granny gets used only with the low 4 and only really for steep loaded hills.
On Sunday, October 11, 2020 at 8:06:54 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:
> My
So...after waking up to some replies and feeling okay about how I've been
riding, I decided to do the opposite and utilize the granny ring more on my
ride to school today. Long story short, I think I have the hang of it and
can see spending more time on it. I did, however, have more
Everyone with a 1x drivetrain is cross chaining worse than you.
Seriously however I found that forcing myself to use the granny ring on my
wide/lows as often as possible saves a lot of premature wear and tear on my
drive train. The stainless/steel granny ring is a lot more durable and
*My entirely unscientific opinion is it's basically a 1x system with a
granny bailout. You're supposed to use the 42 most of the time and across
the full range. *
That's what thought.
The only reason I'm asking is because I had a bad shift incident last week
(really noisy/rough while climbing
*I missed the fact you are actually using a triple with only the middle and
inner rings. Same math except Front triple CL = 46.0 mm for the Middle
Ring. I dont know the Middle to Inner ring spacing, but on my XD2 is is
about 8 to 9mm.*
*A front CL of 46 and a rear CL of 42.5 (130mmOLD)
*I would only worry about cross chaining if it was noisy and bothering me.*
The only noise I've had was a brutally bad/poorly timed shift in the small
ring while climbing and was in too small of a cog in the rear...I've never
had noise going in big ring/cog, so I think I'm okay.
*In general,
Ben, there are lots of different points of view about riding. Nobody's
right or wrong. I would only worry about cross chaining if it was noisy and
bothering me. I would cruise up hills that are unlikely to need the small
ring by just shifting the back. If I thought I would need the small ring,
My entirely unscientific opinion is it's basically a 1x system with a
granny bailout. You're supposed to use the 42 most of the time and across
the full range.
On Sunday, October 11, 2020 at 5:08:37 PM UTC-7 bjmi...@gmail.com wrote:
> Hello!
> I did try a few searches for some discussion or
Ben
I missed the fact you are actually using a triple with only the middle and
inner rings. Same math except Front triple CL = 46.0 mm for the Middle
Ring. I dont know the Middle to Inner ring spacing, but on my XD2 is is
about 8 to 9mm.
A front CL of 46 and a rear CL of 42.5 (130mmOLD)
*"The way I understand it, in a double crankset with a guard, the big ring
is where the middle ring would be in a triple and can use all the rear
cogs."*
Your perfectly sane. The middle ring position on a triple should allow
access to all the cogs.
*" Would it be easier on my chain to use
Ben
I think calculating:
The front chainline for the outer and inner rings of the doubleand
comparing them to
The rear chainline for the #5 sprocket (mid point of a 9s)
AND THEN calculating which sprocket lines up with the 2 rings will give the
minimal wear combination.
Then
YAYYY!!! That was a long road to this point, but all seems well now. I'm
looking forward to tomorrow when you'll be shifty! Wait, let me rephrase
that...
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and
Thank you, Dorothy. ❤️ That is great to know, and I do think I’ve now gotten
the issue fixed.
A List member messaged me and said, “Leah, I still don’t think those shifters
are right...” And he was right. The clamp needed to swap places with the brake
clamp. Then Joe B. realized the mechanic
I found this on a bikeforums thread
6. The grips have to be pushed all the way onto the handlebar, you can’t let
them hang off the end. The leather end plug is sandwiched between the end of
the bar and a flange on the end cap. If you don’t have them pushed on all the
way, the leather plug will
I should call them up in my best grizzled cop voice: JOE BERNARD HERE, DON'T
SCREW IT UP. OK BYE.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to
Waiting for promises of a better product, delivery and installation in the
future doesn't help in the present though. Tension in the bolt is an easy
check today, regardless of the shifter.
Even terrific Sun Tour Thumbshifters need a slight tension adjustment now
and then, as with any shifter
Neither is satisfaction in waiting for promises of a better product,
delivery and installation in the future, when the tension is an easy check
today, regardless of the shifter.
On Friday, August 16, 2019 at 7:17:49 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Ghost shifting with those clickety SunRace
Ghost shifting with those clickety SunRace shifters is a fault of using an IGH
shifter on a derailer. It can be fiddled with enough cure it to the
satisfaction of some, but it's simply not a friction shifter. Leah will be much
happier with the Microshift, I promise.
--
You received this
Ghost shifting may also be as simple as a slight tightening of the tension
bolt on top of the shifter in question. D-rings to adjust are sweet,
hex/allen bolts are not !
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe
With ghost shifting in the back I’d be checking the derailleur hanger alignment.
Bill S
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to
Party on, Garth
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit
Oh boy . at this point amidst the comedy of trials and errors, who or
what done what to/fro who or what . it's enough to speed up the Earth
from rotating for just one moment while It rolls in Laughter ! So may as
well break out song . it's just like riding a bike . Liberty
Unless you're doing it yourself - I'll tell you how! - then it's off to REI for
you. The new shifters will be less finicky for them, plus I/we can talk you
through any further adjustments that may be needed.
Just make sure they know you're doing reverse-sides with both in friction.
They'll be
I feel I must take the shifters to the REI mechanics now. That was the deal -
they wouldn’t charge me for last visit but told me to come back for shifter
service instead. Don’t I kind of have to see them? They do understand about
friction, they just didn’t get the set up on my Aquaclem the
1. You have given me hope that all will be well with new shifters!
2. Where is that darn speed racer? Must have decided he couldn’t handle the
hill. And certainly not in this heat.
3. Front derailleur seems to be behaving this week. I don’t know that it had
ever been used much. When I got it, I
My opinion of REI's bike mechanic fell precipitously a few years ago when
the *head mechanic* told me that the rubbing pads of the Shimano disk
brakes on a bike newly bought for a friend were behaving normally and would
stop rubbing after they "wore in." Idiot. Fixed them myself.
I do like REI's
Leah,
I don't want to disparage any bike mechanic but I wonder if REI has
mechanics with much experience. I along with others would recommend new
shifters as you have decided and take it to an LBS mechanic. Good luck!
Doug
On Thursday, August 15, 2019 at 11:29:25 AM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding
Leah, my guess is you got used to the way the front shifts compared to the
quite different arrangement on Betz. I know from experience that those Silver
cranks move the granny tighter to the frame than Sugino, so the shift over to
it is going to be lazier. It's also going to be weak if you
You’re making sense to me with your fancy mechanic words, Garth! I see that
too, now that you say it. I ordered the new shifters and will have the
mechanics look at the chain when I take the bike for shifter install.
The story gets stranger. I’ve ridden the bike to school the last 2 days, so
I noted in the photos of your bike the chain appears in the smallest rear
cogs and small ring and the chain doesn't have much tension. It could
possibly have a few too many links, and/or RD isn't up to the task. This is
all greek to you of course. It reminds me of how 2 people can speak the
I still have the 1st Gen Sunrace shifters on my Clem and 2nd those that noted
the ghost shifting in the rear my solution being the same as already
mentioned... over/under shifting slightly and backing off to find the sweet
spot. Definitely found a few in between gears with the mid range
Now if you can find a way for your entire life to revolve around you riding
your bike in a silly workstand you'll be all set Ahahaahahaa
A reasonably good mechanic with any pride and curiosity at this point would
go with you outside while you watch them ride it in the lot. I'm
Well, that was an exercise in patience and fruitlessness.
The gracious pair of REI mechanics took me right in. They probably rolled their
eyes when they saw me for the 2nd time in 3 days, but it couldn’t be helped. I
told them the situation, reiterated some of what you guys told me, and one
Front derailleur adjustment is not rocket science, and unless there is some
fundamental incompatibility between derailleur and crankset,* or between
derailleur and bottom bracket assembly spindle length*, or between
derailleur and shifter*, fixing a shifting problem is simply a matter of
proper
Will it shift when not on a hill? It may be that the limit screw for the
lower gear needs a slight tweak or that the cable needs to be given just a
bit more slack so that the derailleur can move a little more toward the
smaller gear.
On Tuesday, August 13, 2019 at 1:31:36 AM UTC-4, Bicycle
I contend that it's madness. Those maddening maddeners only came on the first
run, then Riv switched to 9-speed with Microshifts swapped so the rear has a
soft ratchet and the front is pure friction. MUCH better.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
On Monday, August 12, 2019 at 11:40:44 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> The finicky stuff was the rear cuz those clicks did in fact act kinda
> indexy and would sometimes leave you stuck slightly between gears. Which
> won't make a lick of sense to you if you've always used friction, so we can
A bike mechanic who's used to all the shifty bits indexing properly might miss
this btw. That double fd isn't designed to work with a triple, especially one
with the low profile design Grant put into the Silver. It can be made to work,
but it takes a bit of fiddling.
--
You received this
It may be that the front derailleur is binding and needs some lubrication at
all the pivot points. With the shifter in position for the small ring, if you
push the derailleur cage in with your finger (not while riding, of course) does
the cage move inward some more? Or, look to see if there
Yep Garth, I think you're onto something there about derailer. Now that I've
wandered over to Leah's Instagram to get a look at her bike, I'm realizing she
has those Riv Silver cranks that mount the granny way tight to the frame. I'll
betcha that fd as set perfectly parallel to the rings is
That sounds like a FD alignment issue Leah. Regardless of the shifters in
question, I assume you mean the Sunrace "One at a time" ones, moving the
chain from ring to ring should work easily as long as the FD is set up
correctly and cable tension alright. If the FD is too high above the
Winner winner chicken dinner!
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send
Solved!
After stopping in to chat at the amazing non-profit bike shop, the Community
Cycling Center, I was tipped off that the issue could be caused by insufficient
cable tension. I'm sort of embarrassed that I overlooked this one. I don't
think I mentioned in my original post that I also
ascpgh: It's a Microshift Mezzo long cage derailleur. There is definitely
some play in the pulleys, so I might start by replacing those. But I almost
think that if I'm going that route I'll just get a new rear derailleur. The
Altus seems like a pretty low cost test.
On Friday, June 16, 2017 at
I'd check the derailer hanger first, but a slightly narrower chain certainly
wouldn't hurt. You're friction shifting so the new combination may just be
really sensitive to the pulleys hitting just the right spot.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
Thanks for the tips. And for catching my mix up of high vs. low gears. I
checked it out and it is a 9 speed chain. Wonder if I could buy a 10spd chain
to give myself some more wiggle room in those high gears?
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
I'm running a very similar setup with Microshift indexed thumbies, and love
them. Two different 9sp chains have also worked great (slightly wider
SRAM, and slightly thinner Connex). This is the only indexed bike I've
ever owned.
Chainline is narrow and tight on this setup - I'm using
As I look through that link in the first post :
http://cyclingabout.com/index.php/2011/11/rohloff-hubs-with-drop-handlebars
I'm drawn to #14 the Lenker X-ACT Randonneur Vario Handlebar.
Has anyone ever seen these take-apart drop bars in person? I only see
little bits of info online and its all
I mount my Rohloff shifter on the quill stem on my Bilenky with Albatross
(recently converted to Bosco) bars, but not in the way it's shown in photo
#4, where it sticks out on one side. I just insert the quill through the
shifter before it goes into the headset/steerer tube. I don't have a
Andrew,
I haven't tried this but I am surprised that folks run anything other than
the Cane Creek or the Bertoud setup. I run my Rohloff on a flat handlebar
and takes quite a bit of twisting force to shift. If I had to take my
hands off the bars, I'd probably be wobbling all over the place.
I have the CoMotion shifter that comes in 31.8mm to attach close to the stem
(on 31.8 bars of course). I really like this one, its sturdy and offer a really
good grip. Maybe useless if you're thinking of a bike with quil stem tho...
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to
Andrew,
Some years ago I ran a Rohloff on my Hilsen and tried both the Hubbub (#2)
and the bar-end for quill stem (#11). I preferred the bar-end method. I
don't use the drops that much, so the quill was much closer to my hand.
It's also less expensive and would be a good place to start
I remember seeing this setup on Flickr. Cruise through his photos to see
the complete bike.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/andychurch/7302139292/in/photostream/
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Owners Bunch group.
To unsubscribe from this group
Correction: Co Motion - not Cane Creek
On Monday, August 25, 2014 9:31:24 AM UTC-4, Ginz wrote:
Andrew,
I haven't tried this but I am surprised that folks run anything other than
the Cane Creek or the Bertoud setup. I run my Rohloff on a flat handlebar
and takes quite a bit of twisting
Thanks Dave. That's what I'm thinking too, about the two levers moving in the
same direction. I hope to give this a try before Spring.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Owners Bunch group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails
I have no experience with Brifters on any bike, but I know its been done on
Mustache bars before. I imagine the Shimano with two lever that both move
inwards (or down on a M-bar) would work best. the thumb switch on some
campy units might be hard to access.
-Dave J
On Sunday, November 17,
Dave, this is exactly the setup that I was going to suggest, as it is something
I'd like to try on my Bleriot. I have 8spd Shimano brifters and would like to
try them with one of the bars that you mention. Seems like they would work; at
least it's worth a try before investing in new shifters
Well, I have a Sam Hillborne with friction, 9 speed. I do get some ghost
shifts occasionally, but not a big deal. The major goal is getting an
upright handlebar without having to spend a lot of money; changing
derailleurs, cassettes etc.
On Saturday, November 16, 2013 7:39:34 AM UTC-8, Kellie
How does your daughter feel about friction shifting? If she's happy with
SRAM's click-brifters, you may want to set her up with flatbar Double-Tap.
http://www.sram.com/sram/urban/products/flatbar-10
Joe Bernard
Vallejo, CA.
On Saturday, November 16, 2013 8:28:37 AM UTC-8, Kellie Stapleton
How about putting the Brifters on a Albastache or for a bit more upright
position the VO Porteur bar set up mustache like with the levers up front.
-Dave J
On Saturday, November 16, 2013 3:23:30 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
How does your daughter feel about friction shifting? If she's happy
I think she's looking at the North Bend or Albatross bars.
On Saturday, November 16, 2013 4:12:09 PM UTC-8, Dave Johnston wrote:
How about putting the Brifters on a Albastache or for a bit more upright
position the VO Porteur bar set up mustache like with the levers up front.
-Dave J
On
I realized afterwards that the cable was not loose. The positioning was fine
but the derailluer would come out too far allowing the chain to jump off the
large ring. It was 100% the h screw not being set correctly. It was way off and
I don't see a way that shipping could have changed that. It
Hmmm, there are several conflicting and confusing issues here
In your initial posting, you said you rode the bike for two days without
any shifting issues. Then, you later say you had chain suck in the
first 2-5 miles of riding the bike.
Also, I'm sceptical that the high limit screw, which
Yes I was exaggerating the miles. The first day I didn't do too many miles but
the second day I did a few. I would say that the realistic mileage was closer
to 20-30 before major chain suck. On the second day I would guess I did little
shifting on the front. My point remains that its a ton of
The bolt holding the derailer clamp on the downtube might have
loosened as well, causing the derailer to spin on the tube. They spin
down and clockwise. Just something else to check...
On 8/11/13, Zack zack...@gmail.com wrote:
Another thing that could have happened is that when the bike was
Another thing that could have happened is that when the bike was shipped,
the FD cable/housing popped out of sitting flush in the frame, so the
housing ferrule is sitting on the frame in a way that is different from how
it should be. This has happened to me when unboxing a bike. Just a
I was able to adjust the FD and now it shifts perfectly. For the record
there were two issues at play here.
1. The FD was not adjust correctly. It wasn't even close...I have no idea
why it was this far out of whack.
2. The shifters needed to be tightened.
The second issue is apparently
You will find they need to be tightened on occasion. If you need to adjust the
derailer, watch the Riv video on YouTube. It can be a challenge at first, but
once you get the hang of it, it's great to know you can do it yourself.
Congrats on the new ride.
--
You received this message
Could the shifter be loose? Something similar happened to me the other day.
The left/front barend shifter had gotten loose. A few turns with a (knife
serving as a) screwdriver was all it took. Anything more complicated than
that is sadly beyond my expertise. I fit into the willing but barely
Johnny
The IRD thumbshifters have the internals of the Silver downtube shifters.
The D-ring on top can be tightened with your fingers to add friction to the
assembly. That friction is necessary to hold your chain in gear. Each
derailer has a return spring that wants to move the chain to a
Thanks guys. I did know they were called chainrings but then just got my
brain off track by thinking of what the rear ones were called which I
assumed was cogs but I wasn't sure. I tightened both of the D rings and
that might be enough to fix the rear derailer but when I checked the cables
as
I forgot to mention that I can't really test it at the moment as it is
storming like crazy.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Owners Bunch group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to
OK, I stand corrected. Loose cable aside tightening the D rings seem to
have corrected the issue on both derailers. The front one can be
overshifted in a way. If you take it too far it will move out far enough
to rub the chain and chain guard. Easy enough to take care of as all you
need to
On 07/27/2013 07:05 PM, Johnny Alien wrote:
OK, I stand corrected. Loose cable aside tightening the D rings seem
to have corrected the issue on both derailers. The front one can be
overshifted in a way. If you take it too far it will move out far
enough to rub the chain and chain guard.
I can't explain the details well (or at all), but it sounds like you have
the base the shifter mounts to in the wrong orientation. Try remounting
with the little nubby part on the base in a different spot.
On Thursday, June 20, 2013 1:22:01 AM UTC-7, Philip Williamson wrote:
I just put a
If Joe has diagnosed the problem correctly (and I've seen this happen countless
times with these shifters, so it's quite possible it's the case here as well),
then see below.
---
Posted by E.B. at
https://groups.google.com/forum/m/?fromgroups#!topic/rbw-owners-bunch/aIpahOwpd7o
7/23/12
Tim,
Aha! This seems very probable, and I'll get into it tonight. Thanks a ton
for yours and Joe's input.
Philip
www.biketinker.com
On Thursday, June 20, 2013 2:19:37 AM UTC-7, bobish wrote:
If Joe has diagnosed the problem correctly (and I've seen this happen
countless times with these
I can confirm this. I have replaced 105 derailleurs with campy CD on
both doubles (48/34) (44/30) a triple (48/34/26) and have gotten
significantly improved shifting. The campy feels a little slow on the
tandem(50/36/24) but there is a lot more stress on the chain with a
tandem.
Michael
On
I've used Campy: outstanding
-Jim
-Original Message-
From: MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com
Sent: Jun 19, 2010 12:38 PM
To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: Shifting issues with TA Pro 5 Vis cranks/rings
I can confirm this. I have replaced 105 derailleurs
Chris,
I'm running a TA 46-30 on my AHH, and have ended up with an old
Simplex SLJ. This setup does require a bit more shifting finesse than
most modern chain sets, but it's worth it to me. It's been awhile
since I've dropped or thrown a chain - probably due to more precise
technique by the
I'm using Suntour Superbe Pro FD's with my 46//30 TA's. I've
overshifted small to big a couple of times even though the limit seems
well adjusted on the bike stand. I'd probably opt for a Campy FD
because of the pancake flat shape and performance - is there an online
vender that sells the campy
Hi all:
Thanks for your comments and suggestions. Much appreciated!
The derailleur I installed at first yesterday was designed for
triples, and really wants to shove the chain UNDER the big ring when
upshifting (into one of those five gaps). So this morning, just before
the ride, I installed a
82 matches
Mail list logo
