Re: [T2] '76 FI engine?
Isn't that the truth Rick about rudeness and learned behaviors. I teach a Grade 7 class up here in BC Canada. What are you teaching and where? Funny how many teachers I run into that own and drive VW's. Take care, Courtney Vancouver Island - Original Message - From: "Rick Taylor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2002 5:29 AM Subject: Re: [T2] '76 FI engine? > Amen to that!! The emails without a face make some people feel they don't > have to live by the rules of politeness that we all need to live in society, > or maybe some people never learned these rules which reflects to a poor > upbringing. As a teacher, I have to deal, and try to change some of the > rude behavior of students, too bad some "adults" have to live this way too. > > I noticed your mistake, but chalked it up to forgetting what type of engine > the posting was about, but some people have to belittle others in order to > make themselves feel smart, very sad for these small minded and insecure > people. > > > Original Message from Vanagon Man 1/20/02 4:36 AM > > > I apologize for my incorrect posting. I had my 1776 that I just got > > finished recently in my mind. My screw up. > > > > And believe it or not a few listees that will go nameless had to pmail with > > the rudest most cussing out for this mistake.. > > > > I feel that my posts and help I give are generally helpful. It is a shame > > that a few faceless cowards resort to using the internet to talk to another > > listee in a manner that they would not do face to face, or, trust me, they > > would be spitting teeth. > > > > ----- Original Message - > > From: "John Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 9:23 PM > > Subject: Re: [T2] '76 FI engine? > > > > > >> At 04:11 PM 1/19/02 -0500, you wrote: > >>> You cannot pull a non-hydraulic lifter without splitting the case. or for > >>> that matter a hydraulic lifter that has mushroomed on the cam > >>> end > >> > >> HUH??? > >> > >> Apparently I've been doing the impossible all these years... And has > >> anyone EVER seen a T4 hydraulic (or solid for that matter) lifter that > >> was mushroomed anywhere. Now this informations is pretty much > >> true for a type 1 engine, though I'd still be amazed about a hydraulic > >> type 4 retrofit lifter (which is what my local guy installs) mushroomed > >> that far, maybe those crappy slip in T1 lifters. > >> > >> We aren't talking apples and oranges here volks the topic of this is the > >> '76 TYPE 4 engine. You can pull any T4 lifter at any time you darn well > >> please boys and girls after merely pulling the pushrod tubes. You can > >> even do it on waterboxers but unless you buy expensive collapsible > >> tubes you can't replace those without pulling the head. Anyway I don't > >> want anyone getting confused here with incorrect information. You can > >> in fact retrofit hydraulics ON TOP of the ole solid lifter cam though some > >> will warn of this, many have done it and are happy enough with the > > results. > >> You need to secure all of the hydraulic valve train including pushrods, > >> solid rocker spacers, etc. in order to do so. > >> > >> Anyway for informative hints on the T4 valvetrain please reference > >> > >> http://www.type2.com/library/engineg/hydral.htm > >> > >> Written by somebody I know and love. > >> > >> John > >> [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >> > >> > > > -- > To UNSUBSCRIBE send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > To email the admin for list help only: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > For additional commands send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Donations help keep the list going. http://www.type2.com/donate.html > -- > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.313 / Virus Database: 174 - Release Date: 1/2/02 -- To UNSUBSCRIBE send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To email the admin for list help only: [EMAIL PROTECTED] For additional commands send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Donations help keep the list going. http://www.type2.com/donate.html --
Re: [T2] '76 FI engine?
Amen to that!! The emails without a face make some people feel they don't have to live by the rules of politeness that we all need to live in society, or maybe some people never learned these rules which reflects to a poor upbringing. As a teacher, I have to deal, and try to change some of the rude behavior of students, too bad some "adults" have to live this way too. I noticed your mistake, but chalked it up to forgetting what type of engine the posting was about, but some people have to belittle others in order to make themselves feel smart, very sad for these small minded and insecure people. Original Message from Vanagon Man 1/20/02 4:36 AM > I apologize for my incorrect posting. I had my 1776 that I just got > finished recently in my mind. My screw up. > > And believe it or not a few listees that will go nameless had to pmail with > the rudest most cussing out for this mistake.. > > I feel that my posts and help I give are generally helpful. It is a shame > that a few faceless cowards resort to using the internet to talk to another > listee in a manner that they would not do face to face, or, trust me, they > would be spitting teeth. > > - Original Message - > From: "John Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 9:23 PM > Subject: Re: [T2] '76 FI engine? > > >> At 04:11 PM 1/19/02 -0500, you wrote: >>> You cannot pull a non-hydraulic lifter without splitting the case. or for >>> that matter a hydraulic lifter that has mushroomed on the cam >>> end >> >> HUH??? >> >> Apparently I've been doing the impossible all these years... And has >> anyone EVER seen a T4 hydraulic (or solid for that matter) lifter that >> was mushroomed anywhere. Now this informations is pretty much >> true for a type 1 engine, though I'd still be amazed about a hydraulic >> type 4 retrofit lifter (which is what my local guy installs) mushroomed >> that far, maybe those crappy slip in T1 lifters. >> >> We aren't talking apples and oranges here volks the topic of this is the >> '76 TYPE 4 engine. You can pull any T4 lifter at any time you darn well >> please boys and girls after merely pulling the pushrod tubes. You can >> even do it on waterboxers but unless you buy expensive collapsible >> tubes you can't replace those without pulling the head. Anyway I don't >> want anyone getting confused here with incorrect information. You can >> in fact retrofit hydraulics ON TOP of the ole solid lifter cam though some >> will warn of this, many have done it and are happy enough with the > results. >> You need to secure all of the hydraulic valve train including pushrods, >> solid rocker spacers, etc. in order to do so. >> >> Anyway for informative hints on the T4 valvetrain please reference >> >> http://www.type2.com/library/engineg/hydral.htm >> >> Written by somebody I know and love. >> >> John >> [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> >> -- To UNSUBSCRIBE send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To email the admin for list help only: [EMAIL PROTECTED] For additional commands send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Donations help keep the list going. http://www.type2.com/donate.html --
Re: [T2] '76 FI engine?
I apologize for my incorrect posting. I had my 1776 that I just got finished recently in my mind. My screw up. And believe it or not a few listees that will go nameless had to pmail with the rudest most cussing out for this mistake.. I feel that my posts and help I give are generally helpful. It is a shame that a few faceless cowards resort to using the internet to talk to another listee in a manner that they would not do face to face, or, trust me, they would be spitting teeth. - Original Message - From: "John Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 9:23 PM Subject: Re: [T2] '76 FI engine? > At 04:11 PM 1/19/02 -0500, you wrote: > >You cannot pull a non-hydraulic lifter without splitting the case. or for > >that matter a hydraulic lifter that has mushroomed on the cam > >end > > HUH??? > > Apparently I've been doing the impossible all these years... And has > anyone EVER seen a T4 hydraulic (or solid for that matter) lifter that > was mushroomed anywhere. Now this informations is pretty much > true for a type 1 engine, though I'd still be amazed about a hydraulic > type 4 retrofit lifter (which is what my local guy installs) mushroomed > that far, maybe those crappy slip in T1 lifters. > > We aren't talking apples and oranges here volks the topic of this is the > '76 TYPE 4 engine. You can pull any T4 lifter at any time you darn well > please boys and girls after merely pulling the pushrod tubes. You can > even do it on waterboxers but unless you buy expensive collapsible > tubes you can't replace those without pulling the head. Anyway I don't > want anyone getting confused here with incorrect information. You can > in fact retrofit hydraulics ON TOP of the ole solid lifter cam though some > will warn of this, many have done it and are happy enough with the results. > You need to secure all of the hydraulic valve train including pushrods, > solid rocker spacers, etc. in order to do so. > > Anyway for informative hints on the T4 valvetrain please reference > > http://www.type2.com/library/engineg/hydral.htm > > Written by somebody I know and love. > > John > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > -- > To UNSUBSCRIBE send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > To email the admin for list help only: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > For additional commands send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Donations help keep the list going. http://www.type2.com/donate.html > -- > > -- To UNSUBSCRIBE send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To email the admin for list help only: [EMAIL PROTECTED] For additional commands send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Donations help keep the list going. http://www.type2.com/donate.html --
Re: [T2] '76 FI engine?
At 04:11 PM 1/19/02 -0500, you wrote: >You cannot pull a non-hydraulic lifter without splitting the case. or for >that matter a hydraulic lifter that has mushroomed on the cam >end HUH??? Apparently I've been doing the impossible all these years... And has anyone EVER seen a T4 hydraulic (or solid for that matter) lifter that was mushroomed anywhere. Now this informations is pretty much true for a type 1 engine, though I'd still be amazed about a hydraulic type 4 retrofit lifter (which is what my local guy installs) mushroomed that far, maybe those crappy slip in T1 lifters. We aren't talking apples and oranges here volks the topic of this is the '76 TYPE 4 engine. You can pull any T4 lifter at any time you darn well please boys and girls after merely pulling the pushrod tubes. You can even do it on waterboxers but unless you buy expensive collapsible tubes you can't replace those without pulling the head. Anyway I don't want anyone getting confused here with incorrect information. You can in fact retrofit hydraulics ON TOP of the ole solid lifter cam though some will warn of this, many have done it and are happy enough with the results. You need to secure all of the hydraulic valve train including pushrods, solid rocker spacers, etc. in order to do so. Anyway for informative hints on the T4 valvetrain please reference http://www.type2.com/library/engineg/hydral.htm Written by somebody I know and love. John [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- To UNSUBSCRIBE send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To email the admin for list help only: [EMAIL PROTECTED] For additional commands send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Donations help keep the list going. http://www.type2.com/donate.html --
Re: [T2] '76 FI engine?
You cannot pull a non-hydraulic lifter without splitting the case. or for that matter a hydraulic lifter that has mushroomed on the cam end However, you can look down the pushrod tube and see what you have. - Original Message - -- To UNSUBSCRIBE send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To email the admin for list help only: [EMAIL PROTECTED] For additional commands send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Donations help keep the list going. http://www.type2.com/donate.html --
Re: [T2] '76 FI engine?
On Sat, 19 Jan 2002, Jim Mowreader wrote: > H Steven Dolan sends: > > > The second best (and much easier) way to tell is to pop the valve covers > > off one fine morning and have a look at the gaps. Basically, check the > > gap on all your valves. If none of them have any gap, then you have > > hydraulic lifters. If any have *some* gap, then you have solids. > > That is, unless a PO didn't realize there were hydraulics in the engine, or > know there is a difference between a solid-lifter engine and a hydraulic- > lifter engine, and set the gap like it was a solid lifter engine. I have > seen people do this. "I set my valves to .006" like it says in Muir, and now > my engine runs like crap. Any ideas?" Yeah. Read the whole book. Jim, Sean's original post read: > I've inherited a '76 with 84K & the engine's very strong & makes no > clattering & hasnt' had a valve adjustment to my knowledge & according > to paperwork in over 15K. Note that Sean specifically states that (a) "the engine's very strong" and (b) it "makes no clattering." It is certainly possible to adjust solid lifter valves to hydraulic valve specs, but if you do, the engine will not only not be strong, it will not start! It is also possible to adjust hydraulic lifter valves to solid specs, but in that case it would not be possible to say it makes no clattering. >From his description, all he needs to know is how to find out which type he has on a running engine. Note that checking for gaps under the rockers is labeled "second best." Checking clearances, checking pushrods, checking rockers, etc. are all second best to actually pulling a lifter and looking at it, but they are also all a lot less work. Any proxy measurement is inferior to direct observation, but in many cases it is very acceptable substitute. Steve Dolan /"\ ASCII Ribbon Campaign \ / - NO HTML/RTF in e-mail X - NO Word docs in e-mail / \ - NO V-Cards in e-mail -- To UNSUBSCRIBE send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To email the admin for list help only: [EMAIL PROTECTED] For additional commands send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Donations help keep the list going. http://www.type2.com/donate.html --
Re: [T2] '76 FI engine?
H Steven Dolan sends: > The second best (and much easier) way to tell is to pop the valve covers > off one fine morning and have a look at the gaps. Basically, check the > gap on all your valves. If none of them have any gap, then you have > hydraulic lifters. If any have *some* gap, then you have solids. That is, unless a PO didn't realize there were hydraulics in the engine, or know there is a difference between a solid-lifter engine and a hydraulic- lifter engine, and set the gap like it was a solid lifter engine. I have seen people do this. "I set my valves to .006" like it says in Muir, and now my engine runs like crap. Any ideas?" Yeah. Read the whole book. -- --jmowreader [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- To UNSUBSCRIBE send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To email the admin for list help only: [EMAIL PROTECTED] For additional commands send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Donations help keep the list going. http://www.type2.com/donate.html --
Re: [T2] '76 FI engine?
Please remember that just because they are hydraulic lifters and that the rockers do not move does not mean that all is well.. most of these vans have excessive preload on the lifters and the stuff is flat worn out...this is shown in the Bug Me video that is done at Jake Raby's when he shows the hydraulic camshaft.all that preloading puts a lot of strain on the contact surfaces. - Original Message - From: "John Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 9:26 AM Subject: Re: [T2] '76 FI engine? > At 08:53 AM 1/19/02 -0500, you wrote: > >You should be able to tell quickly by popping a valve cover, and looking at > >the pushrods. > > > >Hydraulic pushrods are more or less pencil thick, where as the older solid > >type are about 3/8 thick not to mention that both are made of different > >material.. > > Actually hydraulic lifter (steel) pushrods are closer to 3/8 sort of like > a big thick grade school pencil and solid lifter (aluminum) pushrods > are closer to 1/2". The solid lifter rods have steel ends pushed into > aluminum tube and this is one of the best easiest way to tell them > at a glance, if right behind the end at the rocker the pushrod gets > bigger and changes color to a grey/whitish aluminum rod, the valvetrain > is solid lifter. As to how often to adjust, certainly every 5000 with every > oil change is wise but in point of fact was the VW factory rec every > 15,000 for the type4? Anyway do it more often, learn to adjust your > valves if you can't. I think Steve's point is real good as well, just wiggle > a rocker that is at TDC, hopefully all and certainly most on a solid > lifter will have a gap and little click, on hydraulic hopefully all but > at least 1/2 if you are lucky will still be holding oil and have no gap. > > John > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > -- > To UNSUBSCRIBE send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > To email the admin for list help only: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > For additional commands send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Donations help keep the list going. http://www.type2.com/donate.html > -- > > -- To UNSUBSCRIBE send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To email the admin for list help only: [EMAIL PROTECTED] For additional commands send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Donations help keep the list going. http://www.type2.com/donate.html --
Re: [T2] '76 FI engine?
At 08:53 AM 1/19/02 -0500, you wrote: >You should be able to tell quickly by popping a valve cover, and looking at >the pushrods. > >Hydraulic pushrods are more or less pencil thick, where as the older solid >type are about 3/8 thick not to mention that both are made of different >material.. Actually hydraulic lifter (steel) pushrods are closer to 3/8 sort of like a big thick grade school pencil and solid lifter (aluminum) pushrods are closer to 1/2". The solid lifter rods have steel ends pushed into aluminum tube and this is one of the best easiest way to tell them at a glance, if right behind the end at the rocker the pushrod gets bigger and changes color to a grey/whitish aluminum rod, the valvetrain is solid lifter. As to how often to adjust, certainly every 5000 with every oil change is wise but in point of fact was the VW factory rec every 15,000 for the type4? Anyway do it more often, learn to adjust your valves if you can't. I think Steve's point is real good as well, just wiggle a rocker that is at TDC, hopefully all and certainly most on a solid lifter will have a gap and little click, on hydraulic hopefully all but at least 1/2 if you are lucky will still be holding oil and have no gap. John [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- To UNSUBSCRIBE send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To email the admin for list help only: [EMAIL PROTECTED] For additional commands send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Donations help keep the list going. http://www.type2.com/donate.html --
Re: [T2] '76 FI engine?
You should be able to tell quickly by popping a valve cover, and looking at the pushrods. Hydraulic pushrods are more or less pencil thick, where as the older solid type are about 3/8 thick not to mention that both are made of different material.. - Original Message - From: "Sean Coghlan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 11:20 PM Subject: Re: [T2] '76 FI engine? > Hello all listees, how would I tell what my engine is? A few weeks back, > (no flames here pls. ;) while driving on the highway I noticed white smoke > pouring out the back of my bus. Well, dumbass am I, I forgot to torque my > oil drain nut enough so it wouldn't shake loose, etc. Well, it did & was > lost on the highway along with a good deal of oil. So there I was in > farmtown nowhere where no store had metric bolts, etc. > I found one eventually but it was not the fitting which was specified in my > Bentley & the mechanic's manuals. How do I know if I have hydraulic > lifters? I've inherited a '76 with 84K & the engine's very strong & makes > no clattering & hasnt' had a valve adjustment to my knowledge & according to > paperwork in over 15K. > > Help anyone? > > Thank in advance listees. > > Sean Coghlan > '76 Anishnawbewagon > > > -- > To UNSUBSCRIBE send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > To email the admin for list help only: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > For additional commands send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Donations help keep the list going. http://www.type2.com/donate.html > -- > > -- To UNSUBSCRIBE send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To email the admin for list help only: [EMAIL PROTECTED] For additional commands send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Donations help keep the list going. http://www.type2.com/donate.html --
RE: [T2] '76 FI engine?
> Hello all listees, how would I tell what my engine is?
> How do I know if I have hydraulic lifters? I've inherited a '76 with
> 84K & the engine's very strong & makes no clattering & hasnt' had a
> valve adjustment to my knowledge & according to paperwork in over 15K.
Of course the engine code will tell you whether your particular engine is
_supposed_ to have hydraulic lifters or not. Look at the very top of the
block for a series of numbers beginning with GD ('76-77 solid lifter) or GE
('78-79 hydraulic). You will also find this number on the fan shroud, but
that is not a reliable place to look because someone might have used a fan
shroud from a different engine than yours. Taking it right off of the block
is safer.
Of course, even if your engine code is GD (solid lifter) this doesn't rule
out the possibility that someone rebuilt it with hydraulic lifters, so it is
not a 100% sure way to know, but it will give you a "most likely" answer at
a quick glance.
- Ron Salmon
The Bus Depot, Inc.
(215) 234-VWVW
www.busdepot.com
_
Toll-Free for Orders by Part #1-866-BUS-DEPOT
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Re: [T2] '76 FI engine?
On Fri, 18 Jan 2002, Sean Coghlan wrote: > Hello all listees, how would I tell what my engine is? > How do I know if I have hydraulic lifters? I've inherited a '76 with > 84K & the engine's very strong & makes no clattering & hasnt' had a > valve adjustment to my knowledge & according to paperwork in over 15K. Sean, When it was new, your bus had an engine that had solid lifters. After 25 years, no matter what it says on the odometer, I would not trust it. The way to tell for sure is to pull a lifter out and have a look at it. Remove a valve cover, undo the nuts that hold the rocker shaft on, then remove one of the pushrods and its pushrod tube. Then take a dibbler (a magnet onna stick![1]) and pull the lifter out. If it is solid, then you have solid lifters. If it has a number of bits, then you have hydraulics. The second best (and much easier) way to tell is to pop the valve covers off one fine morning and have a look at the gaps. Basically, check the gap on all your valves. If none of them have any gap, then you have hydraulic lifters. If any have *some* gap, then you have solids. If you have solid lifters, 15,000 miles is far too long between valve adjustments. Look in the type2.com library or Muir or Bentley for the procedure. Steve Dolan /"\ ASCII Ribbon Campaign \ / - NO HTML/RTF in e-mail X - NO Word docs in e-mail / \ - NO V-Cards in e-mail [1] http://www.co.uk.lspace.org/books/whos-who/cmot.html -- To UNSUBSCRIBE send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To email the admin for list help only: [EMAIL PROTECTED] For additional commands send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Donations help keep the list going. http://www.type2.com/donate.html --
Re: [T2] '76 FI engine?
Hello all listees, how would I tell what my engine is? A few weeks back, (no flames here pls. ;) while driving on the highway I noticed white smoke pouring out the back of my bus. Well, dumbass am I, I forgot to torque my oil drain nut enough so it wouldn't shake loose, etc. Well, it did & was lost on the highway along with a good deal of oil. So there I was in farmtown nowhere where no store had metric bolts, etc. I found one eventually but it was not the fitting which was specified in my Bentley & the mechanic's manuals. How do I know if I have hydraulic lifters? I've inherited a '76 with 84K & the engine's very strong & makes no clattering & hasnt' had a valve adjustment to my knowledge & according to paperwork in over 15K. Help anyone? Thank in advance listees. Sean Coghlan '76 Anishnawbewagon -- To UNSUBSCRIBE send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To email the admin for list help only: [EMAIL PROTECTED] For additional commands send any e-mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Donations help keep the list going. http://www.type2.com/donate.html --
